Cam Swap:

Part: 1

Please read through the entire Instruction before performing the install. Some additional
tools, supplies and steps maybe needed that are not called out in the document.
This is only a guide:
Special Note Here: I would like to thank Mike (MoparMike 610), Tony V., (Big Hands),
Eric (Hemi31), Cam (Cam), Mike Rose (Roswald0511), Josh (The Bow-Tie Kid) and
Doug (PaCharger) for direct input to this document. Along with all the fellas that have
contributed to the Cam Install thread at LXForums.com that Doug (PaCharger) started. I
gleaned a lot of info from them all. If you have any input to please email me at
jtfinklea@gmail.com Thank you!
1. Pull that limp ass Hemi Motored car into a garage or under your favored tree,
setup some sawhorses for a makeshift parts/workbench and get started on that
Hemi Make-Over!!!!!

2. Supplies:
a. New oil and filter.
b. Zip Ties 8-12 long.
c. Antifreeze and distilled water.
d. Windshield washer fluid if you have a 300 with headlight Washers.
NOTE Here: Pre-Lube anything internal that has moving metal to metal
contact.
e. Motor assembly lube (can use motor oil too). Lucas Assembly Lube has
Zinc and Molybdenum additives to eliminate dry starts.
f. 6.1 valve springs (New)
g. 6.1 push rods or custom push rods as required.
h. New crankshaft bolt.
i. New cam bolt (can be re-used).
j. Long head bolts (M-12)s - (20)
k. Small head bolts (M-8) (10) Note: they are cheap, its not necessary to
replace them, theyre not a torque to yield bolt.
l. Header bolts of your choice
m. Head gaskets (2)
n. Exhaust gaskets (2)
o. Note Here: other items to thing about changing particularly if you have a
lot of miles on the car and its just good practice. Its a recommendation
by one of the Master Builders (Hemi31) Eric!
p. Water Pump
q. Timing Chain and tensioner/slides, here the slides can be worn down and
cause rough idle.
r. Intake manifold gaskets (2) These can be re-used.
s. Serpentine Belt for use with the SLP or Power Bond 25% Under drive
pulley: Gates P/N: K060798, Napa/Gates P/N: 25-060798 or Dayco P/N:
6PK2025
t. Radiator Hose Upper Napa P/N: 9575
u. Radiator Hose Lower Napa P/N: 9576
v. PermaTex Ultra Copper High Temp Sealant Adhesive
w. PermaTex High Temp Anti-seize
x. PermaTex PTFE Pipe thread sealer.
y. Zerex G-05 Antifreeze 2 gallons (+ Zerex additive for certain 6.1s).
z. Distilled Water 2 gallons
aa. Penetrating Fluid: PB Blast or Seafoams Deep Creep
bb. Seafoam Motor Tune

2. TOOLS:
a. Full set of metric sockets (8mm - 15mm mostly), these sockets should be
shorts, medium and long depth of well. 1/4, 3/8 and . Note Here:
One of the hardest bolts to get to is the passenger side back most, lower
valve cover retainer bolt. I had to remove the small plastic perforated vent
cover over the PCM and come down with an 18 drive extension and
swivel with 8mm deep well socket.
b. 5/8" swivel spark plug socket.
c. Adapters like to 3/8, 3/8 to , to 3/8 and you get the picture.
d. Floor Jack and jack stands, I like putting the car up on ramps and then jack
the car up and set the jacks stands as needed. To help with the removal of
the fascia. Oil change and exhaust.
e. Pry bar comes in handy.
f. Breaker Bar to turn head bolts 90 Degrees and 1 foot of pipe to fit over
the end of the breaker bar if needed.
g. Channel lock pliers to remove the clamps that hold the water pump hose
on.
h. Diagonal Pliers. To cut the zip ties on the wiring harness if needed.
i. Screwdrivers for clips, clamps, etc.
j. Torque wrench for proper specs: (0-250 in. lbs.) and (0-150 ft. lbs.).
k. Coolant Pan
l. Oil Pan & Oil filter wrench
m. Harmonic Balancer puller (can rent for free from auto parts stores).
n. Valve Spring Compressor (can rent for free from auto parts stores).
o. Plenty of Rags
p. Mechanics gloves
q. Shop Lights
r. Compression tester, not necessary your choice to do the check before and
after.
s. Picks small, Note here: they can come in handy when removing and reinstalling the valve spring retainers and in some cases the push rods should
you drop one, accidentally in the oil return galleys of the heads. A straight
point pick can be used to hold the Timing Chain Tensioner back as well.
t. Diablo Predator if you have one, Note Here: Prior to Installation: You may
want to install a base tune from the cam provider or at least bump the idle
speed up by 50-100 rpm and richen up the fuel some by at least 3% across
all 3 rpm ranges. Also the diagnostics to display the Engine Coolant Temp
(ECT), Charging volts (for the UD pulley) RPM, AIT, (air intake temp)
KNK-ST and KNK LT. the above is just something to consider before you
install the cam.
3. Parts and Part numbers
a. 6.1L Head Gasket (2)- 5037 592AA their should be 2 different part
numbers.

b.
c.
d.
e.
f.
g.
h.
i.
j.
k.
l.

6.1L Intake Manifold Gasket (2) - 5037 503AA

5.7/6.1L Head to block bolt primary M-12 (20) - 6506 694AA
5.7/6.1L Head to block bolt secondary M-8 (10) - 6506 334AA
5.7 Head Gasket (1) 53021621BC they are not interchangeable.
5.7 Head Gasket (1) 53021620BC
5.7/6.1 Crank bolt (1) - 6506 340AA
Mopar Exhaust/Header gaskets P/N: 53013944AA and 53013943AA
about $23 for the set.
OEM 6.1L Header bolt (16) ( 17 for 5.7) - 6503 131; Hex flange head
M8x1 bolt
Stage-8 Header Bolts P/N: STG-8916 Qty 17
Breslins/Percy Header bolts: P/N: 20011 Black Oxide @ $66.99 or
Stainless Steel P/N: 21011 @ $76.99 source HHP or Precyshp.com
Spark Plugs: NGK V-Power NGK-5306 or IX-Iridium NGK-2313

4. Downloadable Service Manual (courtesy of Factory D):

http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=24486

1. Perform the Fuel System Pressure Release procedure. By checking the owners
manual for the location of the ASM Fuel Pump Relay fuse. Note Here: should be
the #6 fuse in the Trunk on 05 and 06 LXs; remove and then start the engine to
bleed off the fuel pressure. Disconnect the fuel supply line at the fuel rails (05 and
06 5.7s) have a connection (blue clip) that can be disconnected using needle nose
pliers. We found on the 08 5.7 that it has a different type and I have not acquired
the correct removal tool info.
2. Its a good time to do a compression test at this point; it can help to determine a
pre existing condition and before and after numbers are always good reference.
Perform another compression check a couple of weeks later for comparison.
a. Remove Throttle body, but leave the input connector connected. Or you
can clear the codes later.
b. Remove one spark plug from each cylinder.
c. Install compression tester.

d. Turn engine over via the starter. Crank until the gauge tops out, should be
3 compression strokes. Do this 3 times each cylinder to get an average.
One key to look for is the first and second jumps or stages as they should
be equal among each cylinder or at least close. Of the three Cam swaps I
have done its averaged 190 pre-cam swap.
e. Record compression from each cylinder and the number of the cylinder.
f. Disconnect the battery negative cable.
3. Drain cooling system. Located lower passenger side between front of engine and
radiator.
4. Remove the CAI or intake air cleaner.
5. Remove closed crankcase ventilation system.
6. Remove the front fascia. Note Here: This doc does not show any pictures or
discusses the procedure to remove the front fascia as it is different on 300s and
Chargers and Challengers. The picture below is a 300C w/radiator removed.

7. Remove the underside Belly Pan.

8. Disconnect the exhaust at the exhaust manifolds/headers and mid pipes.
9. Disconnect at the electrical connector the o2 sensors at bank 1 sensor 1 and bank
2 sensor 1.

10. BELT-DRIVE REMOVAL

CAUTION: DO NOT LET TENSIONER ARM SNAP BACK TO THE
FREEARM POSITION, SEVER DAMAGE MAY OCCUR TO THE
TENNSIONER.
Rotate belt tensioner (6) counterclockwise until it contacts it's stop. Remove belt,
then slowly rotate the tensioner into the freearm position.
11. Unbolt the power steering pump and set aside.
12. Remove the coil packs.
13. Remove the AC Compressor bolts, Note here: you can remove the 2/front bolts
that mount to the Timing cover and loosen the rear two just enough to get the
timing cover off.
14. Remove the spark plugs. Can be done after you remove the heads.
15. Remove cylinder head valve covers using the sequence below.

16. Remove the EGR tube.

17. Remove wire harness on intake manifold from both sides and lay back against the
windshield.
18. Disconnect electrical connectors for the following components:
g.
h.
i.
j.
k.

Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor

Fuel Injectors
ETC ( Electronic Throttle Control )
Ignition Coil wires.
Disconnect Brake booster hose, purge hose, and MUA hose (Make Up Air
hose).

19. Remove intake and throttle body as an assembly. Note the Blue retainer clip on
the passenger side fuel rail/rear.

20. Remove the electrical grounds at the back side of each head and remove the studs
that hold down the coolant tubes.

21. Remove rocker arm assemblies using the sequence below. Its best to back off
each bolt evenly at no more than half to one full turn each until all spring pressure
is released. This will help to prevent bending the rocker tubes. There is a lot of
valve spring pressure here.
22. Remove the push rods. Identify to ensure installation in original locations or
discard. Long ones are the exhaust and short ones intake. Note here: the new push
rods are similar in that the exhaust rods are longer and should have an orange and
or yellow color stripe on them to identify the difference.

23. Remove Alternator 3 bolts and the oil dip stick tube by loosening the front
exhaust manifold bolt.

24. Remove the head bolts from each cylinder head, using the sequence provided.

25. Remove cylinder heads.

26. Discard the cylinder gaskets.
27. Remove the lifter assemblies, the retainers are marked front and rear, but need to
be identified drivers side and passenger side. Note Here: Some of the lifters on the
5.7s are MDS activated and have holes drilled into the sides of them, do not get
them out of position. They can be lifted out as an assembly.

28. Remove exhaust manifolds, Note Here: If they are the 5.7 OEM exhaust logs you
will may to retain the passenger side front long bolt to re-install the oil dip stick
tube.
29. Remove the valve springs using the tool below or similar.
30. Install the new 6.1 valve springs using the tool below.
31. Can be purchased from here: https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/p-1500018604.aspx

Operating Instructions
for: OTC 4572

Valve Spring Compressor

Operating Instructions
1. Position a short metal tube on the spring cap NOT the valve and lightly tap the
tube with a hammer. This will loosen
the collets from the spring retainer and valve spring keepers.
2. If applicable, remove the clip from the valve keeper.
3. Determine which release adapter, 1" (25 mm) or 1-3/16" (30 mm), best fits your
application. The adapter should not
interfere with the valve keeper. Thread the adapter onto the adjusting screw as shown.
(The other adapter may be
threaded onto the other end of the screw for storage.)
4. Lock the handle on the valve spring compressor.
5. Position the compressor with the release adapter aligned squarely on the spring
retaining cap, and the cup on the end
of the T-bar actuating screw pressing against the valve.
6. Tighten the T-bar handle to compress the valve spring and expose the collets.
CAUTION : If the spring cap refuses to free up and release the collets, LOOSEN
THE T-BAR until pressure
is released from the spring retainer. Then remove the compressor and repeat
Steps 16.
7. Remove the collets, and loosen the T-bar handle to release pressure before removing
the compressor.
CAUTION : To prevent personal injury, before removing the tool from the cylinder
head, always release
pressure on the compressor by loosening the T-bar handle.
The valve spring assembly can now be removed from the cylinder head.
Release Adapter aligned over spring retaining cap.
Release Adapter stored on end of actuating screw.
Handle in locked position. T-bar Handle & T-bar Actuating