MOLDING

All of the molds are two part closed molds of green sand. The
sequence of operations will vary, but each mold will require the
same essential elements. I'll define a few terms that may not be clear
to everyone. A blank cope or drag is a flask half that has been
rammed full of sand and struck off without using a pattern. It is made
to provide a bed for a pattern that has no flat surface to lay on the
molding board. In use, the pattern is pressed or rapped into the sand
up to the parting line; the opposite half of the mold is rammed over
the bedded pattern. It is generally an easier method than making a
follow board for the same purpose.
A false cope or drag, is a blank half that is shaken out and re-made
before the mold is poured. If the bedded portion of the pattern is
simple in shape and shallow, it may provide a faithful enough cavity
with simple bedding. Otherwise, the bedding half of the mold is
shaken out and re-made.
Two, or sometimes three, rolls are used to bring the cavity or
core to the correct position for pouring. Called a double or triple roll,
it is used mostly with castings that have a large green sand core which
must rest on the drag to prevent its falling into the cavity.
A green sand core is formed as a part of the entire mold when it
is rammed up. The term means any part of the mold which forms a
hollow portion of the casting.
To bed a pattern means to press or rap it into the surface of a blank
cope or drag.
To ram up a mold includes all of the following:
1. Lay the pattern on the molding board and dust it with parting
compound.
2. Set the flask over the pattern, and ram it full of sand.
3. Strike it off level and vent the mold with the wire.
4. Rub in the bottom board, roll over the flask, and remove the
molding board.
5. Dust the parting face with parting compound, and set