beyond asia

FINDING FEVER PITCH

TEXT AND PHOTOS BY JEERAWAN DUANGNAM
The beautiful game has numerous fans,
but few as dedicated as Jeerawan
Duangnam, whose pilgrimages to the
land of football are feverish and frequent.
This time she tackled London, Liverpool
and Manchester in an attempt to become
a true footballer’s wife.
It is hard to tell when football became an Asian obsession. While Europe
has for over a century been under the spell of football seasons and club
rivalry, the game was little promoted outside the immediate vicinity of
the clubs until the advent of multi-billion dollar sponsorship licenses and
television rights. Local clubs had local supporters filling the stadiums.
Salaries were small and coverage national. At the international level, only
the World Cup really mattered.
In the early 1990s, football morphed into the monster it is today.
Marketing and right executives transformed local clubs into global
brands. Footballers became worldwide superstars and rich over night.
And nowhere was the effect of this marketing felt more than in Asia.
In one of the shrewdest moves made by football’s ruling body, FIFA,
the 2002 World Cup was held in South Korea and Japan. In South
America and Europe, football’s traditional strongholds, there was muted
outrage: football’s most prized event was to be held on a continent where
it was more of an excuse for gambling. It turned out to be one the cup’s
most memorable on record, with South Korea making the semi-finals and
ensuring the game had a fan base of billions across the continent.
That year also marked my passage into football fever pitch. As a
warm up to the World Cup in Korea, some of England’s most successful
and enduring clubs visited Bangkok on a promotional tour. Manchester
United paraded David Beckham to a crowd of adoring fans. Arsenal
SCORING IN LONDON
and Chelsea attempted to steal the limelight. But it was Liverpool, a city It is perhaps apt that among Etihad Airline’s in-flight entertainment is The
which I knew little about, that made millions of Thais permanent fans. Blue Revolution, a documentary on the rise of London’s most famous
Although France, Germany, Italy and Spain all boast clubs of club, Chelsea. I watch it as the plane curls into the sprawl of the world’s
repute, it was the English premiership that scored in Asia, earning busiest international air hub, London Heathrow. In such a densely
them not only fans but sponsorship deals from some of the region’s packed urban centre (one of the biggest urban sprawls on earth, with
biggest brands. The airline, Etihad became Chelsea’s official sponsor, approximately 20 million people teeming through the ancient streets) it
while Emirates stamped their name on the Arsenal’s stadium. Air Asia is hard to believe there is space for a single football stadium. Real estate
linked up with Manchester United, while Thailand’s super-brewer Chang prices are some of the most expensive in the world, and any green space
Beer monopolised Liverpool’s Everton FC. Today, many of the clubs has been under the constant threat of development. But then I see it, to
are foreign-owned and have players from all four corners of the globe, the north of the city and standing taller and more prominent that Canary
making the league a truly global sporting affair. Wharf or the Gherkin could ever do: Wembley Stadium. Rebuilt, refitted
What also makes English football unique is the drama both on and off and reinvented as the home of the English game, it towers over North
the pitch. Even when the football season ends, there is never a dearth of London, a temple to the beautiful game.
news, with the footballers’ wives parading on the catwalks of the world’s London is not only the capital of England, but also the financial
fashion capitals while their husbands have affairs and wake up in jail centre of Europe, one of the world’s main fashion capitals and home to
after a night on the town. In England, the circus is a multi-million dollar more clubs than you can conveniently support in a single trip: Chelsea,
spinner. On the pitch, it is the team spirit that keeps the fans enraptured, Arsenal, Westham, Tottenham Hot Spurs and Fulham all call London
with supporters subsuming their personal worries into tracking the fate home. Traditionally, it was the industrial and working class north of the
of the team. A win can make any other life crisis seems bearable. But a country that dominated football. It was only when Frenchman Arsene
loss ensures depression for a week. Wenger and Portuguese showman Jose Mourinho took control of the
And just as every Muslim must go to Mecca, an obligatory fact teams Arsenal and Chelsea respectively, that the London clubs started
about being a football fan is the pilgrimage to the birthplace of the game, vying for the limelight.
England and the nation’s three foremost football centres: London, The best thing about making a pilgrimage to each of London’s
Liverpool and Manchester. famous stadiums is that the transport network seems to have been built

FOR MORE INFORMATION

www.visitbritain.com Opening spread: Having the blues, the home of Manchester City FC. Opposite
www.visitliverpool.com page: London’s iconic landmarks. This page: The build up before kick-off
www.visitmanchester.com around Arsenal FC's ground, along with the nation’s neon icon - adverts at
Piccadilly Circus.

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around them. There is a tube station nearby and bus routes are sure
to connect fans with their temples. International popularity of English
football and the resultant newfound wealth has had many big clubs up
their roots and build fantastic new stadiums. On prime example is the
Emirates Stadium, home to Arsenal, which cost nearly one billion dollars
and can seat over 60,000 people, making it the third biggest stadium in
the city, double the capacity of their former home at Highbury Stadium.
Amazingly, the team still finds it is sold out for matches.
However different the stadiums, the build-up to a game on match
day is the same. Many fans come well before kick off, enjoying the
crowds, the beer and the pies that are a mandatory part of the football
experience. The aim is to make as much money as they can, and with
fans as eager to see their club wealthy (more money means more
world-class players), the feeding frenzy at the souvenir shop goes into
full swing. And if you are not covered in filthy lucre and still want proof
that you were there, then the match programme is usually an affordable
takeaway.
PLAY AND PLAYS
Whether you are a football fan or not, London has more for the tourist
than practically any other city on earth. Being the centre of what was
once the largest and most powerful empire the world has ever seen,
Londoners are from all four corners of the globe, making the city one of the
most diverse in the world. London’s museums are stocked with pillaged
riches, its art galleries house some of the best collections in the world,
and its shopping is in every way as vast as it is indulgent. Although the
city was comparatively slow to jump on the “iconic building” bandwagon
(arguably, it already had Tower Bridge, one of the most recognisable
landmarks on earth), the Gherkin at 30 St Mary Axe, Norman Foster’s
masterpiece, rises out of the city of London like a beacon of modernity.
Juxtaposed with the city’s financial district, which mixes grandeur, pomp
and the cutting edge in an exciting mix of architectural styles, wandering
these streets is seeing the wealth of the world in action.
Jermyn Street, Bond Street, Burlington Arcade, Oxford Street and
Regent Street are legendary with all self-respecting shopaholics, with
pretty much anyone who’s anyone in the world of fashion having opened
an opulent branch in part of town which sees royalty, billionaires and
celebrities all shop. Fortnum & Mason on one of the West End’s main
arteries, is the grocer to the stars, and sells some of the best English
foodstuffs to those willing to pay around ten times the normal price.
But it is at night when London really comes alive. Lit up, the
grandeur of the city is outlined in the windows of some of the world’s
finest restaurants, many of its most famous theatres and opera houses
and in some of Europe’s most hedonistic clubs. Clubbing in London is
an institution, and with the importance placed upon music in the UK as
a whole, it is perhaps no surprise that much of the global music market
is focused on British bands. From Monday through Sunday, the list of
options is endless, with dress codes that range from the super smart to
absolutely naked!
LONDON’S BEST KEPT SECRET
Hidden away in the famous Harvey Nichol’s department store on
Knightsbridge, Cath Kidston (www.cathkidston.com) is a new found
treasure crypt. This Brit brand is famous throughout the country and in
select markets, particularly Japan, where the designer is known as the
queen of patterns. Cath Kidston’s products range from fashion, bags,
household items and essential travel accessories such as luggage and
passport holders. Beware though, the patterns (rose, flowers, polka dot
and cute dogs) could cause you to empty your wallet.
From top: A play billboard on the London tube; A typical English
townhouse in Eastsheen; London’s West End at night; A
restaurnat in Soho’s Chinatown.
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BRITISH STREET STYLE
From the home of the British aristocracy, a street famed for its
tailors, gentlemen’s clubs and top-notch restaurants, 22 Jermyn
Street is a staple of classic British luxury.
THE SCENE Situated in one of London’s most prestigious streets in
the heart of St. James’s, this townhouse hotel, which is a member of
SLH (Small Luxury Hotel) Group offers luxury in a truly classic setting.
After a severe bombing during the World War II, Jermyn Street was
devastated. A concerted effort to retain the original elegance and
charm of the area by the Earl of St Albans, Henry Jermyn, gave the
street its current name, and made it synonymous with the traditional
British gentleman.
Behind the Victorian façade, the ambience at 22 Jermyn Street is
traditional upper class chic. Dim lights, splendid wall prints, friendly
and professional butlers and furniture that would not look out of
place in many of London’s aristocratic haunts make this a truly British
experience.
THE ROOMS Each one of the 18 rooms and suites at 22 Jermyn
Street has been exquisitely designed, combining contemporary decor
and fabrics with antique furniture to create a stylish and comfortable
ambience and classic charms. The highlight is the Willow Suite which is
a large penthouse suite (92 sqms) with a dining room, large bathroom,
separated bathtub and shower area with toiletries from L’Occitaine,
fully equipped kitchen where light meals can be cooked. Alternatively,
Fortnum and Mason, London’s premier grocers, is only a stone’s throw
from the hotel, where one of the best afternoon teas in all of the the
UK can be found.
SOMETHING SPECIAL The location is prime. Piccadilly Circus, the
centre of the West End through which it has been said that anyone
who’s anyone in London passes through daily, is only a few steps
away. With London having one of the best metro systems in the world,
Piccadilly Circus is also one of the major tube stations, from which there
is easy access to other parts of London. The area is most beautiful at
night, with the full splendour of Regent’s Street and the Haymarket lit
up like a Victorian-era fantasy.
IF I HAD ONE QUIBBLE... one night is too short to make full use of
the luxury facilities that the hotel has on offer.
22 JERMYN STREET
St. James’s London SW1Y 6HL
T: +44 (0) 2077 342353
F: +44 (0) 2077 340750
E: office@22jermyn.co
W: www.22jermyn.com, www.slh.com
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GETTING YOUR
KICKS IN LIVERPOOL
My first memory of English football comes from 1995, when I watched
Steve McManaman, an ex-Liverpool player, dribbling the ball skillfully
past the opposition. Though he didn’t score, I became a fan. I made my
first visit to the city in 2002, where I practically lost my voice cheering
the team.
A great way to soak up the heritage of this historic club is in the
stadium’s museum, which houses photographs from the club’s colourful
past, along with the numerous trophies they have picked up along the
way. The Stadium and Museum Tour in Anfield (www.liverpoolfctv.com)
is worth checking out if you want to follow in the footsteps of the players,
from the locker room (a surprisingly simple affair) to the pitch, via the
tunnel, which boasts the iconic”This is Anfield” sign.
The Melwood training ground is a must for any serious fan, and
is the best chance of snapping your favourite player or getting his
autograph! The ground is around 10 minutes from the city centre (USD
15 by taxi). The trick to getting autographs is to wait until the player
leaves in his Porsche, Ferrari or Lamborghini. Then, take a running jump,
hurl yourself onto the bonnet, staring the footballer straight in the face.
With any luck he will be so concerned about the paintwork after your
airborne acrobatics that he will exit the car, whereupon you can refuse
Clockwise from top left: A group of Scandinavian fans posing in front of Bill
Shankly's statue; The YNWA gate; A view of Anfield stadium from the Kop
Stand; The Liverbird badge; Fans' seats next to Rafa's, pre-match drinking
pub; Collages of glory; Carra's first autobiography; Melwood the trainning
ground; The Kop logo stamped on Anfield Stadium. Opposite page: Scenes
from Goodison Park on the day of the derby game.
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to budge without an autograph.
The Merseyside derby between Liverpool and Everton is considered
one of the best in English football. Each of the clubs has a strong
team and, there are more fans than can possibly fill either stadium.
Fortunately, my visit coincided with just this. With the game sold out,
my only hope was to buy a bunch of helium balloons, sail over the wall
of the stadium before letting go and landing, with any luck, in the lap of
Liverpool striker Fernando Torres. Fortunately Mr Sorrakit, the marketing
and communications manager from Chang Beer, the official sponsors
of Everton, rooted out a ticket, for which I was most grateful. Being a
steadfast Liverpool supporter, this did feel a little treacherous. But since
all is fair in love and football, I felt justified.
At first, the war is not of football but of colour: red for Liverpool and
blue for Everton. Curiously enough, for the first time there was also a
discernible presence of purple. Liverpool were the current holders of the
European Capital of Culture badge of honour, and as part the effort to
unify the city, the city authorities decided to blend the two colours and
paint the town purple.
The derby was held at Everton’s Goodison stadium and the 90
minutes were pure bliss. Torres proved why he is dubbed a football god,
scoring two goals and, I swear, winking at me from about 500 metres
away. And though on the way back I had to trek back in the rain to the
city centre (no taxis), I was smiling and singing “You’ll Never Walk Alone”
all the way.
PUB GRUB
Since there is almost no point to the football in England if you are not a
little bit tipsy, then the most important thing to know about the stadiums
are the watering holes that surround them, and which ones serve the
strongest beer.
The Albert is one of Liverpool’s traditional pubs on Lark Lane and
serves good food and is a great place for the ticket-less to watch the
live game. This place is full of memorabilia and has a collection of footie
scarves from around the world. The Park is usually packed and popular
before and after the game (dependent on the result). The Sandon, is
one of the most popular boozers and is home to the Rawkites (www.
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redandwhitekop.com), the independent Liverpool supporters’ club. Sam
Dodd’s Wine Bar, a bit more upmarket, is where you might catch a
glimpse of a footballer’s wife sucking on a baby sham through a straw.
Continuing the sports theme, the Café Sports England takes
the idea of a sport-themed pub and fills it with nosh. Partly owned by Photos by Ellie Laycock
Liverpool football star Jamie Carragher, this is as close as you can get to
the true fan experience. Situated in the Georgian Quarter, The London
Carriage Works is one of Liverpool’s leading restaurants and serves
modern international cuisine using local, seasonal and organic produce
alongside a carefully selected wine list. Panoramic on the other hand is
the city’s newest high-end grazing ground; it’s also the tallest restaurant
in Britain, located in West Tower offering spectacular 360-degree views
of Liverpool and, on a clear day, even Manchester!
IT’S BEEN A HARD DAY’S NIGHT
Beatlemania is a common syndrome, and there is no better place THE SCENE Situated centrally on the North John Street, the oldest
NIGHTLIFE to take the cure than in the fab four’s hometown of Liverpool. But district in the city, the hotel building, designed by Thomas C Clark, is a
Kingdom Liverpool is the most exclusive cocktail/wine lounge bar in the if wandering the streets and hanging out in the Cavern is not quite Grade II listed building that is over 120 years old. Situated in the heart
Northwest, while Alma de Cuba is a spectacular restaurant and bar: an enough to truly get your fix, then the Hard Days Night Hotel is the of Liverpool’s shopping district, it is close to the Met Quarter, Liverpool
independent spirit that leaves a lasting impression. Set inside the former only place to stay. Zone One, China Town and Liverpool Lime Street Station. You can even
St Peter’s Catholic Church, it is an eclectic mix of Cuban, Hispanic and walk to the Albert Dock, which is only 15 minutes away on foot.
Latin American influences. Heebie Jeebies is hip and a great place for
outdoor live music provided by the acoustic singer Diggsy (whose name THE ROOMS “It’s been a hard day’s night/I should be sleeping like a log”.
became part of an Oasis’ song “Diggsy’s Dinner”). Fortunately for the guests of the Hard Day’s Night Hotel, they should find
no problem in having a truly relaxing kip. Each of the room ooze Beatles
SHOPPING history that sits alongside modern luxury making for a truly great hotel
The Met Quarter is Liverpool’s newest designer shopping centre which experience. But it is the two suites that are for the true Beatles fans.
houses brands such as Armani, Timberland, Hugo Boss and Hobbs. It is
The Lennon Suite features a stunning white piano on which to practise
anchored by a 17,000 sq ft Flannels store, an independent retailer, which
stocks collections by Dolce and Gabbana, Gucci and Prada. Liverpool your scales and tinkle out the notes to Imagine. The McCartney Suite
One is the city’s newest shopping and leisure district with 160 new shops, is a tribute to Sir Paul with newspaper clippings adorning the walls and
cafes and restaurants overlooking a stunning and newly sculpted Chavasse an elegant interior which boasts acoustics that will greatly enhance your
Park. Cavern Walks is the high-end independent’s epicentre with Vivienne version of his most famous song, The Frog Chorus.
Westwood housed within.
SOMETHING SPECIAL With an exemplary bed, excellent breakfast
HERITAGE AND CULTURE buffet spread, romantic Blake’s Restaurant and great location, there
Tate Liverpool, housed at the historic Albert Dock, is the largest gallery are numerous reasons why the hotel is a hit with visitors to Liverpool.
of modern and contemporary art outside of London, showcasing However, from the musical scores on the ceiling to the yellow submarine
the very best in cutting-edge work including photography, sculpture, jukebox in reception to the walls strewn with photographs of the band,
painting and installation. In addition there are the seven galleries run by for any Beatles fan, this hotel in a treasure chest.
the National Museums of Liverpool. This includes the World Museum
Liverpool home to thousands of exhibits, including the Bug House,
IF I HAD ONE QUIBBLE… it was hard to leave the Hard Days Night
the Aquarium and Natural History Centre. The Merseyside Maritime
Hotel and not play the Best of the Beatles on a loop forever after.
Museum chronicles the maritime history of what was once one of the
world’s biggest ports.
HARD DAYS NIGHT HOTEL
Central Buildings,North John Street, Liverpool,L2 6RR.
Clockwise from top left: The city’s historic centre; Heebie Jeebies outdoor
T: +44 (0) 151 236 1964 F: +44 (0) 151 255 1263
live music venue; chic shopping at Cavern Walks, the city’s newest shopping
destination.
W: www.harddaysnighthotel.com

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PITCHING UP
IN MANCHESTER
On account of their geographical proximity (on map it is hardly one
centimetre) I tend to think the two cities have rather a lot in common.
Both were famous trading ports, and were also two of the first cities in
the world to be industrialised. While Liverpool was home to The Beatles,
the Manchester music scene spawned Oasis, Joy Division, New Order,
Morrissey, and The Smiths. When it comes to football, Liverpool were
on top in Britain and Europe in 1970s, with a remarkable 18 league titles
and five European championships. In the 1990s, it was Manchester’s
turn, and the football club became the richest in the world and a brand
synonymous with winning.
Manchester has so many faces. As well as being the centre of the
Industrial Revolution, the city underwent some serious regeneration after
an IRA bomb ripped the heart out of the city centre in 1996. In order to
demonstrate the population’s resilience, the architectural legacy of this
restoration is impressive. Buildings such as the Beetham Tower or the
famous B of the Bang, a monumental sculpture by living design legend
Thomas Heatherwick, are located side by side heritage pieces such as
postboxes from the Victorian era which, having been soldered in steel,
survived the bomb blast.
In 2002 Manchester hosted the Commonwealth Games, a coup
that gave its sporting facilities a facelift and created Sportcity, one of the
biggest sporting venues in the country.
Prior to the Commonwealth Games, Manchester’s second football
club, Manchester City, was well behind in the rankings. Then the
Commonwealth Games donated it the brand new City of Manchester
Stadium and foreign investment was pumped in. Suddenly it was a force
to be reckoned with. One of the most technologically advanced venues in
Europe, a walk behind the scenes here is pure gadgetry and glamour.
Come and see for yourself why more than 200,000 people go on
the Old Trafford, Manchester United Museum & Stadium Tour every
year. Immerse yourself in the history of the world’s most famous
club, experience the magnificent trophy room, test your skills on the
interactives and enjoy the atmosphere inside the ‘Theatre of Dreams’.
This page, clockwise from top: A young fan; Manchester United on sale; The view
from the Theatre of Dreams; Dining at Ning and Tom Chop House; The ambience
around The Manchester Wheel; The legendary footballers from Manchester
United; The tunnel to the back door of Manchester City FC; A multi-storey car
park with the fans’ names printed on it; The iconic buildings on the Salford Quays.
Opposite page, left to right: The view from the Manchester Wheel, B of the
Bang, Noel Gallagher from Oasis; Crossing the bridge to Old Trafford.
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DINING Salford Quays, features a magnificent array of arts and entertainment.
Craving for comfort food, Ning, a fabulous boutique Malay and Thai Among the work of national and international artists, it showcases the
restaurant in Manchester’s burgeoning creative district is the perfect work of Britain’s best-loved artist LS Lowry. The Imperial War Museum
place to feel at home. For Mediterranean nosh, sample modern Italian housed in an award-winning building by architect Daniel Libeskind is
cuisine at Albert’s Shed located on Castle Street. Manchester’s favourite well worth a visit as a symbol of our world torn apart by conflict.
canal-side watering hole in the heart of the historic Castlefield area is
Dukes 92 where antique furniture contrasts with minimalist décor in a SHOPPING
spacious and informal ambience. Jason Wass trained in top Manchester The Northern Quarter is a cool and colourful hive of hip activity, providing
eateries and serves up gutsy fresh food using prime local ingredients at the alternative shopping space. Now home to the renowned Affleck’s
the Northern Quarter Restaurant and Bar on High Street. For a blend Palace with its multitude of small stalls. Within easy reach of Affleck’s,
of Georgian history and modern glamour, Mr Tom’s Chop House is the vibrant and vintage clothing in Rags to Bitches and Pop Boutique
the oldest bar in Manchester, serving traditional pub grub in a Victorian are sure to tempt you to loosen your purse strings. The Northern Quarter
building built over 100 years ago. is also a music lover’s paradise, with a range of excellent record stores.
Established businesses such as Piccadilly Records, Vinyl Exchange
HERITAGE AND CULTURE and Fat City Records attract local DJs and bands alike, for their offering
The Lowry set in the beautiful waterside location of the newly developed of select new cuts and obscure rarities.
IT’S ABODE-ABLE!
There’s more to Manchester than football and music, not least
some of the best hotels in Britain. Located in the historic
cotton trading district right in the centre of the city, The Abode
Manchester is one of the best.
THE SCENE The Abode Manchester is housed in a historic redbrick
building that once functioned as a cotton warehouse. Built during the
Victorian era, the building still retains the charm and craftmanship of the
original structure while incorporating all the facilities and amenities of
modern luxury, making this a truly great place to stay.
THE ROOMS There are 61 bedrooms divided into four categories:
Comfortable, Desirable, Enviable and Fabulous, the latter of which is
most definitely the highlight. The five Fabulous suites are located on
the fifth floor and capture the atmosphere of the buildings origins as an
integral part of the massive textile industry that once thrived in the city.
This is combined with the latest modern amenities, such as Vi-Spring
beds, bathrooms with monsoon showers, luxury toiletries, DVD players
and LCD TVs. There is also an eclectic collection of modern art by the
likes of Yoko Ono and David Hockney on display.
SOMETHING SPECIAL At Abode Manchester the food is almost as
good of the rooms, with the Michael Caines Restaurant being a firm
favourite with the locals. Here tapas-style creations are served with
champagne, creating a heady mix of food and drink. For a less formal
atmosphere, the MC Café Bar on the ground floor is an all day dining
venue that’s great on a sunny day. Drinking on the terrace is a fabulous
experience and Bar MC serves night bites with tunes, cocktails and
great views. THE ABODE MANCHESTER
107 Piccadilly Manchester, M1 2DB, United Kingdom
IF I HAD ONE QUIBBLE… because it’s an old building, the door was T: +44 161 247 7744
like a lead weight which never shut without slamming. W: www.abodehotels.co.uk
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