Conde Nast UK 5/14

SPECIAL 200TH ISSUE
IN
THWIN
ES AW
EY EE
CH K
EL
LE
MAY 2014 3.99
THE HOT LIST
THE BEST NEW HOTELS IN THE WORLD

SAN FRANCISCO
THE NEW FOODIE
FRONTIER
THIS SUMMERS
SECRET ISLANDS IN
GREECE
THAILAND
& ITALY
ON HOLIDAY WITH
MONICA BELLUCCI
PALOMA FAITH
Heavenly Escapes
Discover idyllic destinations with Carrier. Relax on the sun-kissed sands of
Mexico, discover the sparkling waters of Mauritius, experience captivating
Langkawi or immerse yourself in the simple beauty of Greece. Our portfolio
features a bespoke selection of luxurious holidays with exceptional offers at
some of the finest hotels and resorts around the world.
CAPELLA PEDREGAL, LOS CABOS, MEXICO (top)

Exultant views over the Pacific Ocean and Sea of Cortez greet you as you
enter this spectacular hotel via a rock tunnel. Rooms have their own welcoming
plunge pools; allow yourself to be cosseted in the world-class spa with its
luxurious outdoor treatment rooms. Stay 8 nights pay for 6 with complimentary
breakfast and resort transfers. Prices from 2980pp (based on departure
25 Aug 14) for two people sharing an Ocean View Room. Save up to 980
per couple.
THE ST. REGIS MAURITIUS RESORT (right)
Mauritius iconic Le Morne Brabant Mountain provides the backdrop to this
escape of pampered refinement. An idyllic white sand beach, exceptional
amenities and impeccable butler service allow guests to relax in style, or, for
the more active, there is a wide choice of aquatic activities such as kite and
windsurfing. Stay 7 nights pay for 5 with half board. Prices from 2235pp
(based on departure 08 Sep 14) for two people sharing an Ocean View Deluxe
Room. Save up to 1080 per couple.
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=;)+)6),)5-@1+7-=:78-67:<0).:1+)16,1)67+-)6):)*1)4=@=:A;31;67?
AMANZOE, PORTO HELI, GREECE (above)

Exceptional vistas of undulating olive groves and the Mediterranean Sea
can be enjoyed from the hilltop position of this exclusive retreat. Luxurious
pavilion-style accommodations boast spacious bathrooms with sunken baths
opening onto the terrace. Indulge in the luxurious Aman Spa or enjoy the use
of the magnificent private Beach Club. Stay 7 nights from 4950pp (based on
departure 02 Sep 14) for two people sharing a Pool Pavilion.
NIYAMA, MALDIVES (below)

With a name meaning peaceful journey, this luxury escape blends visionary
design with a sense of stimulation. The Lair is the chilled out resort hub and
there are a range of ground-breaking culinary concepts on offer including Edge,
the resorts offshore signature restaurant, accessible only by boat. Stay 7 nights
pay for 5 with an early booking reduction, breakfast and seaplane transfers.
Prices from 2705pp (based on departure 31 Aug 14) for two people sharing a
Beach Studio. Save up to 1250 per couple.
THE ANDAMAN, A LUXURY COLLECTION RESORT,

LANGKAWI (top)
Cradled between the majestic Mat Chinchang mountain range and the deep
blue Andaman Sea, this exquisite hotel is a pocket of peace and tranquillity
set on a breathtaking white sand beach and surrounded by ancient rainforest.
Indulge in romantic private dining on the beach. Stay 7 nights pay for 5 with
breakfast. Prices from 1210pp (based on departure 02 Jun 14) for two people
sharing a Deluxe Rainforest Room. Save up to 320 per couple.
SUGAR BEACH, A VICEROY RESORT, ST LUCIA (above)

The twin Piton Mountains and the Val des Pitons form the breathtaking
setting for Sugar Beach; the resort enjoys one of the most dramatic settings on
this beautiful Caribbean island. White walls contrast with dark wood floors
in the beautiful rooms and villas. Stay 7 nights pay for 6 with complimentary
breakfast. Prices from 2460pp (based on departure 09 Jun 14) for two people
sharing a Luxury Villa. Save up to 940 per couple.
For further information or to book call 0161 660 1946.
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CONTENTS
May 2014
Features
59 The Hot List
Find out which

of the new hotels around the world made
it to this years denitive guide, from
New York smarts to New Zealand escapes
84 San Francisco
With top chefs

feeding the appetites of techie-boomers, is
this now the best place to eat in the USA?
92
Kastellorizo Cast away for

the tiny Greek island thats an off-the-chart
hit with rock stars and artists
104
Montpellier World-class
architects are vying to outdo each other in an
old city full of eye-popping new buildings
116
Koh Lanta Want to nd the

Thailand of 20 years ago but dont want to
slum it? Head for this stylishly go-slow island
Pictured, view from the dining room at the Aman Canal Grande, Venice, a Hot List hotel
May 2014 Cond Nast Traveller 7
CONTENTS
May 2014
126
50
135
30
In this issue
14 Contributors
20 Word of mouth Whats creating
37
a buzz around the world, from

Appalachia to Tuscany
30 Short break With its thermal

waters, fresh seafood and laidback
attitude, Ischia is Italys feelgood island
34 Comfort zone Alex Zane jumps

off one of Berlins tallest buildings.
Plus, tourist information for Toad Hall
37 Where to stay The Inn of the
20
On the cover
The terrace of the
Mediterraneo suite
on Kastellorizo,
Greece. Photograph
by Oliver Pilcher
10 Cond Nast Traveller May 2014
Five Graces in Santa Fe; Bed-hopping

with Paloma Faith; The Weekender in
Cumbria; nd artistic inspiration with
Sally Shalams Great British Breaks
126 In Britain & Ireland

The streets of Belfast are buzzing:
head to Titanic Town to tap into
its new creative scene
135 The experts Meet the

Bhutanese insider with royal
connections. Family A roaring
Stockholm adventure for wannabe
Vikings. Health Dont hold your
breath: why learning to exhale can
lighten your load. Feasting Which
wines can stand up to the raw power
of ceviche? Books This months best
new travel titles. Q&A From cabin
cases to north Cornish breaks your
questions answered by our team
148 Competition Win a 4,000

holiday for two in the Seychelles, staying
for six nights at the Constance Lmuria
46 A letter from Mexico City, where 151 Reader offer Save 15 per cent
almost anything can be forged - even a
love letter from the heart
on a re-energising mountain escape at

one of Austrias nest hotels
50 Style file Blooming lovely designs 200 Room with a view Cape View
inspired by nature, plus the skateboard
craze crashing onto the fashion
shelves, and more. Watches Thrilling
timepieces for race-against-theclock adventurers. Beauty Around
the world with Monica Bellucci. On the
scene Bulgari Hotel, Milan
Clifton, Cape Town
PHOTOGRAPHS: MATTHEW BUCK; STEFANO SCATA; STEFAN WETTAINEN
12 Editors letter
EDITORS LETTER
othing works in italy. Nothing. Im sitting in my room typing in the Wi-Fi code, trying to
turn the air-con down with the sheet from my hotel bed around my shivering shoulders.
Where did you say you had dinner last night? I ask on the phone to my husband back in
London. Some place with the word Firehouse in it, he mumbles, chewing on something.
It was very cool, he adds. The whole place was lled with a very cool crowd. And then we had
dinner. And then this really cool guy came up and sat down with us. And then he paid for dinner.
Which was really cool. It was all very cool actually.
What was the guys name? I ask, snippily.
Um, says my husband. Something really weird and difcult to pronounce. And kinda cool sounding.
I hang up.
I used to think, secretly, that hotels were cheesy. What a strange fricking construct: a kind of no-mans land that
mainlined our regrettable desires to sleep; a kind of contrary parallel universe that was specically supposed to be
not like home a hokey, alternative reality in which we could foolishly pretend to run away from ourselves.
And then I went to the Chateau Marmont, which in many ways made absolutely the least sense to me of all.
It was the weirdest hotel in the entire stable of weird hotels. Not because, like the others, it had a million-dollar
grin amid a sea of purple velour and a puppy-like need to be liked, but because it felt like just the opposite.
As I walked in, there right in front of me, kicked back in a wicker chair and drinking orange juice through a
straw, was Christopher Walken. Christopher Walken. I carried on ambling to the table where my buddy was: she
was having breakfast with Ethan Hawke and Uma Thurman. And next to us, eating eggs, was Ben Kingsley. And
that cute guy from Dead Poets Society was playing the guitar with his foot up on a stool. I had just got off the
plane. The sun was shining. It was really curious.
My two-night stay in Los Angeles turned into a few days, and then a week, and then more much more.
I had the most perfect LA time I could have possibly wished for: dry Martinis in Frank Lloyd Wright constructions
hanging off cliffs with men who wore cravats and talked like Cary Grant; looking for summer houses in Santa
Monica with Ethan and Uma, lying on the grass of their bungalow back at the hotel playing I Spy with their kids;
driving along Mulholland in an open-topped Cadillac and surng our hands on the breeze; an unexpected movie
night in a palace built to look like Versailles, but better; drinking at 3am in downtown dive bars with Margaritas
adrift in salt, and standing outside in the gauntlet of neon signage watching my cigarette smoke plume into the
citys tangle of wires, still feeling the heat of the day in the pavement beneath my feet.
The Chateau Marmont had been the hub of that time. And so it was that I had always wanted to meet Andr
Balazs, the man behind a slew of hotels that didnt make the usual kind of sense and yet always ended up being
something way more than the sum of their parts.
And now, with Chiltern Firehouse, he has nally arrived in London. My friend arranges for us all to have drinks.
Andr is very calm and very charming. He is interested and interesting. Hes very measured. Hes very still. The
stillness is the most curious thing about him, considering were in his new restaurant, the most hopping place in
town. Im sure he wants to move chairs, or chide waiters, or turn off lights, or tweak the hell out of something. But
he does none of these things.
I decide I am going to be more like Andr. I am going to be less eager, and less appy of hands, Im going
to make fewer faces and say fewer unusual things followed by an awkward guffaw. I am going to be more still.
Less cheesy hotel, in other words, more Marmont.
This is the new issue of Cond Nast Traveller. For people who know there is no need to look over their shoulder;
who know that wherever they are, they are in the right place at the right time, and that all is as it should be.
Melinda Stevens
Editor
@MelindaStevens3
MelindaLP
WINNER NEW EDITOR OF THE YEAR

Truth in Travel is this magazines promise to the reader to be an essential source
of honest, first-hand opinion and must-have information. You can trust Cond Nast Traveller
to give you the unbiased inside track, with integrity and attitude.
All information and travel details are correct at the time of going to press and may no longer be so on the date of publication.
Unless otherwise stated, hotel prices are low-season rates and restaurant prices are for a three-course meal for two without drinks
CONTRIBUTORS
Inspired by the Hot List 2014, we asked
our contributors to name a great hotel
theyve discovered in the last year
Oliver Pilcher Photographer, Kastellorizo (p92)
Le Sirenuse in Positano. You can while away hours here just

gazing over the Mediterranean. Southern Italians take playing the
host to another level, and everyone from the chambermaid to the
manager has a buongiorno or buonasera for you. Oli and his wife
Abigail live in Morayshire and are expecting their fourth child
E Jane Dickson Writer, Belfast (p126)

I love poking about in Europes less-visited cities, and the
Sandton Grand Reylof in Ghent was a real nd: Empire
architecture, cutting-edge interiors and a buzzy restaurant
and cocktail bar in a city that feels like Bruges without the
coach tours. A freelance columnist and feature writer, E Jane
spent her childhood in Northern Ireland
The most desirable villas in

the heart of the Mediterranean
Mirjam Bleeker Photographer, Koh Lanta (p116)

+44 (0)20 7377 8518
www.TheThinkingTraveller.com
At the Cond Nast Traveller Readers Travel Awards 2007-2013:
Best villa rental company | Best on the ground service
Best range of villas and facilities | Best presentation of villas
I recently stayed at the amazing Finca Barlovento, in

Santa Marta on Colombias Caribbean coast. Its balanced on
a sandbank between a river and the sea, the owner Luis is a
wonderfully enthusiastic host, and the food is simple, local
and very good. Mirjam is based in Amsterdam
T R AV E L
EXPERIENCED
FACE TO FACE
WITH TURKEY
Strategically located between two

continents where east meets west,
Turkey has played a major role in the
Mediterranean world throughout the
centuries. Explore the historic cities of
Ephesus, Gaziantep and Mardin, stay
in a cave in Cappadocia, discover the
Unesco site of Troy and visit Istanbuls
Blue Mosque. Or simply relax at one
of the coastal resorts on the Turkish
riviera, home to secluded bays
and white sandy beaches.
Stefano Scat Photographer, Ischia (p30)

Its not really a hotel but rather a camp in Ubud, Bali.
Sandat Glamping Camp has ve tents, each

with a private swimming pool, and three lumbungs,
which are traditional structures once used to store
rice, in the middle of the paddy elds. From his home
in northern Italy, Stefano travels the world as a lifestyle
and food photographer
8*))/,2-0&),/!"
8&$%"012)&16"/3& "0
8+/&3))"!5-"/&"+ "
85 "-1&,+))2"
8"/0,+)"/3& "
Harriet OBrien Writer, Montpellier (p104)
Timothy OGrady Writer, Kastellorizo (p92)

On Ke Ga Bay in Vietnam theres a shing village, a French
lighthouse, a lovely beach and the Princess dAn Nam
hotel. Everything is splendid here; it is modest, grand and
intimate all at once. Our room had a bath open to the sky on
one side and its own little pool on the other. Timothys new
book, Children of Las Vegas, will be published later this year
Ortakoy Mosque, Istanbul
PHOTOGRAPHS: MIRJAM BLEEKER; MATTHEW BUCK;

MARTIN MORRELL; OLIVER PILCHER; STEFANO SCATA
La Demeure dHortense, a guesthouse in Vichy with

swirling, wrought-iron balconies and beautiful interiors. The
owners (who moved here from Paris) are utterly charming, and
you get the impression they run the place for the sheer fun of it.
Harriet grew up in Burma and now lives in the Cotswolds
8-DAY TURKEY TOURS

FROM ONLY 1,045
www.coxandkings.co.uk/turkey
To speak to an expert or request a
brochure, please call 020 7873 5000,
quoting reference CONDE.
%830%&8%:
EDITOR
Melinda Stevens
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT/PA TO THE EDITOR Tabitha Joyce/Cassianie Cornwall
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FASHION
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COPY
CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Rick Jordan
DEPUTY CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Christy Ward SENIOR SUB-EDITOR Grinne McBride
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
Jonathan Bastable, Justin Cartwright, Horatio Clare, Sophie Dahl, E Jane Dickson,
Helen Fielding, Giles Foden, Loyd Grossman, Jeremy King, Emma Love, Kate Maxwell,
Lee Marshall, Thomasina Miers, Reggie Nadelson, Harriet OBrien, Redmond OHanlon,
Tom Parker Bowles, Harry Pearson, Antonia Quirke, Paul Richardson, Anthony Sattin,
Nicholas Shakespeare, Sally Shalam, Stanley Stewart, Colin Thubron
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
James Bedford, Mirjam Bleeker, David Crookes, Squire Fox, Philip Lee Harvey,
Max Kim-Bee, Ken Kochey, Lisa Limer, Lisa Linder, Martin Morrell, Anders Overgaard,
Tom Parker, Oliver Pilcher, Preston-Schlebusch, Alistair Taylor-Young, Jenny Zarins
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WORD OF MOUTH
Whats hot in Tuscany Sydney Cte dAzur Fez Appalachian Mountains

EDITED BY FIONA KERR
CULTURE
CLUB
PHOTOGRAPHS: COKE BARTRINA; CLARISSE DEMORY
A cool new wave has swept over the Tuscan hills,

where a gang of creative Parisians have
transformed a rambling estate into an artful retreat
Life as a Parisian bohme can be tough. When summer sets in, eeing
town is essential, but where to recharge between ros-soaked afternoons
in Formentera and dancing at Corsicas Calvi on the Rocks festival?
Villa Lena, which opens this month, may be the answer. A haven where
like-minded folk can connect and recharge, the villa combines an
all-inclusive hotel with an artists retreat spread over 500 hectares of
rolling hills and olive groves an hour outside Florence. The utopian
concept is the work of art consultant Lena Evstaeva, her musician
husband Jrme Hadey and their friend Lionel Bensemoun, whose
legendary Le Baron has remained Pariss hippest underground nightclub
for the past decade. Together they draw big names and rising stars to
mingle with guests during lm screenings and golden afternoons by the
pool. Bed down in one of the 14 apartments (with whitewashed walls,
terracotta tiles and vintage furniture), two private villas or hostel-esque
San Michele, where prices are geared towards struggling artists who
plan to stay all summer. Dont even think about holing up in your room;
Villa Lena is about open minds and shared imaginations, with guests
whether a solo traveller or family of ve encouraged to drop by the
12 artist-in-residence ateliers. Among the talents to appear during last
years pop-up openings were sculptor James Capper, artist Hugo Wilson
and lm-maker Lola Schnabel. And if you need some sustenance
to get those creative juices going, French chef Hlne Bouchardeau
brings her expertise to local ingredients in dishes including truffle pizzas
and wild-boar rag. Come sunset, long communal tables are pushed
back for impromptu performances by musicians such as Devendra
Banhart, Benjamin Clementine and French-house pioneer Phillipe
Zdar, toasted with homemade limoncello. Its a dream, a rare dream,
says Bensemoun. LAUREN HOLMES
+39 0587 083112; www.villa-lena.it. Doubles from about 65; apartments
for two from about 90 per night
Clockwise from top left: the exterior of Villa Lena, Tuscany; the entrance
hall of the main house; the gardens, part of the 500-hectare estate; a sitting
room in the 19th-century villa; the surrounding countryside
WORD OF MOUTH
SMACK YOUR
PITCH UP
You dont have to hit the road to hitch your
wagon to the latest travel trend
From top: El
Cosmico in Texas;
two Airstream
interiors at The
Grand Daddy
Hotel; Berlins
Huettenpalast;
BaseCamp Bonn
f your image of a caravan holiday

is a rain-lashed eld somewhere
on the English coast, then think
again. Huettenpalast in Berlin
(www.huettenpalast.de) was
the rst to bring the caravan in
from the cold literally. The three
cara-rooms inside a former
factory were so popular with urban
campers that ve more have just
been added one hanging from a
wall. In Bonn, BaseCamp (www.
basecamp-bonn.de) crossed
hostel with campsite last August
and came out with rooms in 15
themed caravans (from a nauticalthemed houseboat to pink-tastic
kitsch), as well as VW campervans,
housed in a warehouse. Later this
year, Liverpools Camp and
Furnace (www.campandfurnace.
com) adds an indoor caravan hotel
to its bar/restaurant/music venue.
Hotels themselves are turning

Airstream trailers the caravans
cool American cousin into
guestrooms, either out front
(Viennas Hotel Daniel, The
Vintage Hotel in Brussels, The
Atlantic, Byron Bay) or up
on the roof (The Grand Daddy
Hotel in Cape Town has an
artist-designed trailer park, while
Bristols Brooks Guesthouse
is about to open four atop its 23
rooms). However, the humble
caravan park isnt dead, just
re-invented. In Herefordshire,
Mad Dogs & Vintage Vans (www.
maddogsandvintagevans.co.uk)
has four retro campers by the
Brecon Beacons. In the desert
outside the Texan art-hub of
Marfa, El Cosmico (www.
elcosmico.com) is where campsite
meets creative retreat, with
vintage caravans, teepees and
safari-style tents over 18 acres.
Meanwhile, architect
Matthew Hofmann gave ve
classic Airstreams a designer
overhaul for his rst Autocamp
(www.autocamp.com) in
Santa Barbara, with more
to follow around California this
year. Prefer to hit the road?
Hook yourself up to Honey, a
newly restored 1960s caravan
from Goodness Travels (www.
rentavintagetrailer.com), for
a weekend in the Catskills.
This trend is on a roll.
WORD OF MOUTH
The 1920s scene
All that jazz
Coco Chanel
Woody Allen
shooting at the
Belles Rives and
the hotel, above
The Fitzgeralds with

daughter Scottie
hen Woody Allen chose the Cte dAzur for

his new romance-meets-swindle caper Magic
in the Moonlight, his team scoured the palmfringed coast for backdrops with authentic annes-folles
charm. Ahead of the lms release this summer, the 1920s
are roaring back into fashion along the Med, thanks to
the director and cast, Colin Firth, Emma Stone, Marcia
Gay Harden. Follow their trail at Htel Belles Rives
(www.bellesrives.com; doubles from about 110) on Cap
dAntibes, formerly a villa where F Scott Fitzgerald and
Zelda spent the summer of 1926. Order a Gin Fizz
at the Art Deco bar and imagine Scott puffing on his
Chestereld cigarettes, scribbling notes for Tender is the
Night. Around the corner is Eilenroc (www.antibesjuanlespins.com), an immaculately restored belle-poque
villa with lavender- and rose-lled gardens. It was home
to US magnate Louis D Beaumont and his wife Hlne,
who hosted Champagne-fuelled parties brought to life
in Allens lm with a swinging soire. Nice is an incredible
city: cosmopolitan, magnicent, said Allen while on set
there, and the city is awash with period-piece atmosphere.
Nowhere more so than another of his locations, the domed,
pink-and-white Le Negresco (www.hotel-negresconice.com; doubles from about 170), where guests have
included Coco Chanel. Finish your tour at Chteau du
Rout (www.chateau-du-rouet.com; studios from about
60) with a bottle of Belle Poule ros, then head to the
red-rock Esterel beaches and splash around in turquoise
water. Magical, moonlight or not. LANIE GOODMAN
Chteau du Rout.
From bottom left:
Colin Firth, Marcia
Gay Harden and
Emma Stone on
set. Le Negresco
in Nice, above
PHOTOGRAPHS: LOIC BISOLI; JACK ENGLISH/2013 GRAVIER PRODUCTIONS; HERVE FABRE PHOTOGRAPHIES; THE GRANGER COLLECTION, NEW YORK; KEYSTONE PICTURES USA/ALAMY
Trip the light fantastic on the French

Riviera to Woody Allens ragtime tunes
WORD OF MOUTH
NEW
KIDS
ON THE
Until recently, the Sydney suburb of Redfern was
notorious for the 2004 riots, empty warehouses
and the now-demolished social-housing
development known as The Block. But as its
just minutes from the city centre and artsy
Surry Hills, it was only a matter of time before
the bearded barmen moved in. Find them
amid the exposed brick and fairy lights at
The Dock (182 Redfern Street), serving beer
cocktails and craft brews. Around the corner,
the bartenders at Hustle & Flow (www.
hustleowbar.com) shake Snoops Gin n Juice
to a 1990 hip-hop soundtrack. At Arcadia
Liquors (www.arcadialiquors.com) Sydneysiders
sip cocktails over a takeaway from Wah Fung
BBQ (www.wahfungbbq.com) across the road
(they even deliver), and The Angry Pirate
(www.theangrypirate.com.au) does a mean
line in rum and pizza. However, its not just
drinking thats driving the areas regeneration.
107 Projects (www.107projects.org) is an
artists-run space hosting workshops (life
drawing, poetry slam), exhibitions and
performances. Pick up furniture specically for
tiny ats at Small Spaces (www.small-spaces.
com.au) and add that ultimate hipster touch
a piece of taxidermy from the gloriously
eccentric Seasonal Concepts (www.seasonal
concepts.com.au).
CARRIE HUTCHINSON
Clockwise from bottom left: The Angry Pirate in
Redfern; Small Spaces furniture shop; a cyclist
among the warehouses; The Dock bar; records
in Arcadia Liquors; caf culture in Redfern
bootleg genes
During the prohibition years in
the USA, moonshine spawned
the phrase blind drunk and
even killed drinkers (as a result
of being distilled in car radiators),
but now its back on the menu
with a new artisan image. Homebrewing spirits is still illegal,
but across the old bootlegger
heartlands in the Appalachian
Mountains licensed distilleries
are popping up, making small

batches of the traditional grainbased white whisky. Many of the
producers have moonshine in
their blood. Piedmont Distillers
use a generations-old family
recipe for their Junior Johnsons
Midnight Moon (www.juniors
midnightmoon.com), and Cody
Bradford of Howling Moon
Moonshine (www.howling
moonshine.com) can trace

brewing back to his great-greatgrandfather. But its not just for
purists. Ole Smoky Tennessee
Moonshine (www.olesmoky
moonshine.com) comes in fruity
avours such as Apple Pie, and
bars from North Carolina to New
York are serving moonshine
cocktails a world away from its
hillbilly roots. RUPERT MURRAY
PHOTOGRAPHS: AAP/PRESS ASSOCIATION IMAGES; TERENCE CHIN; ALEXANDER HEDLEY
BLOCK
NOT MANY PEOPLE KNOW THIS...

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WORD OF MOUTH
the trends taking

off and those running
out of fuel
BOGOTA
New direct ights from London this summer, a snazzy
W Hotel, booming food scene and street-art tours mean the
Colombian capital is the latest hipster city
MURRAY-MANIA
Warm up for Wimbledon with a stay at the champs new hotel,
Cromlix House, near his hometown (www.cromlix.com)
track and field
If you want an alternative to mud and a main

stage, these hot festivals pack in more than music
for GEEKs
Moogfest
2327 April, Asheville, North
Carolina, USA
WHAT The ultimate union of tech,
art and music inspired by cult-gure
Dr Bob Moog, who invented the
rst analog synthesizer. Its where
visionaries from Google, Microsoft,
Massachusetts Institute of
Technology and Oxford swap ideas

SEE Kraftwerk in 3-D and M.I.A,
two of this years hot tickets. You
can also build your own electronic
keyboard on a two-day workshop
DO SAY Coder or hacker
DONT SAY Techie
BRING Your Google glasses
STAY At the modern Aloft Asheville
Downtown (www.alofthotels.com;
doubles from about 150).
www.moogfest.com
INDIAN VISA QUEUES

From October you can y to Mumbai (and elsewhere) without
a trip to the consulate rst, thanks to new visas-on-arrival
FEEDBACK FORMS
Hotels are now crowd-sourcing ideas from the start. Write the
activities list at Club Meds new Val Thorens resort or play interior
designer at New Yorks 17 John. So long, PhD-level light switches
CHEESY COUPLES
Throw away those one-armed snaps of the two of you and get an
album full of pro pics from Flytographer (www.ytographer.com),
which arranges a photographer in more than 70 cities worldwide
for THINKers
HowTheLightGetsIn
22 May1 June, Hay on Wye, UK
WHAT Authors, politicians and
intellectuals decamp to the Welsh
border for a cerebral celebration
of philosophy and music. But theres
much dancing and drinking, too
SEE Debates, talks and concerts
with headliners including French
philosopher Bernard-Henri Lvy
and Hot Chips Felix Martin
DO SAY Ive come to think,
then lose my mind
DONT SAY Camus who?
BRING Your brain and your wellies
STAY In a yurt by the River Wye
(from 10 per person).
www.howthelightgetsin.org
AOIFE ORIORDAIN
MIX
IT UP
Fez is famed for its richly decorated houses full of

centuries-old craftsmanship. But now new projects are
adding a modern edge to the traditional aesthetic. In the
medinas Andalous Quarter, Riad Karawan (contact@karawan
riad.com) is the result of a decade-long renovation by two Air
France pilots, Lionnel Derimont and Lionel Lecoeuvre, and the
latters wife, Valrie Mayoroff. In traditional riads the combination
of zellige plasterwork and painted wood can be intense. We chose
ours for its simplicity, pared it back and went for a lighter look, said
Derimont. Set around a rose-coloured stone courtyard, the seven
suites come with high-spec bathrooms and eco replaces. And this
month in Ville Nouvelle, Anis Sefrioui opens Hotel Sahrai (www.
hotelsahrai.com), pictured, with oor-to-ceiling windows, sleek
arches and an innity pool with views over the city. Contemporary
Moroccan art and performances add to the buzz. TARA STEVENS
PHOTOGRAPH: OMAR CHENNAFI; ALEX FARNUM/AUGUST
for FOODIEs
Ballymaloe Litfest of Food & Wine
1618 May, County Cork, Ireland
WHAT A stuffed larder of the most
inuential chefs and writers debating,
discussing and demonstrating
SEE Nomas Ren Redzepi and
horticulturalist Alys Fowler leading
a foraging workshop, then sit down
for a pop-up dinner with Yotam
Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi
DO SAY See you at the
fermentation masterclass
DONT SAY Whats freekeh?
(Its like quinoa, FYI)
BRING An appetite: the Big Shed
Fringe Festival has artisan stalls and
entertainment into the wee hours
STAY At nearby country-estate-style
Castlemartyr Resort (www.castle
martyrresort.ie; doubles from 135).
www.litfest.ie
FLOWERS
On food (DIY with The Herb and Flower Cookbook; 16.99,
Quadrille), in drinks (try the pansy-topped cocktail at Londons
new Barnyard), delivered by bike (BloomThat in San Francisco)
SEEING SOMETHING NEW.

The Courtyard at Rosewood London, steps away from Covent Garden
A S E N S E O F P L AC E . RO S E WO O D L O N D O N N OW O P E N .
+44 20 7781 8888
| london.reservations@rosewoodhotels.com | rosewoodhotels.com
MUCH OF THE
ISLANDS CHARM
LIES IN ITS FISHING
VILLAGES, WHOSE
YELLOWS, PINKS
AND GREENS WERE
CELEBRATED IN A
POEM BY WH AUDEN
SOMEWHERE FOR THE WEEKEND
ISCHIA
Meet Capris more mysterious and
eclectic sister. By Tara Isabella Burton.
Photographs by Stefano Scat
ew places evoke the mythic

legacy of the Mediterranean as
powerfully as the tiny Tyrrhenian
island of Ischia. With its tangles
of bougainvillaea cascading over parched
rocks, lizards darting between slabs of
volcanic tufa and cliffs rearing up over
indigo waves, Ischia feels more like a place
Odysseus might have visited than a typical
Italian holiday destination. But with some
of the oldest, and best, thermal baths in
the world (Virgil and Pliny celebrated the
healing powers of the waters), uncrowded
beaches and food that blends mountain
earthiness with the freshness of the sea,
Capris less ostentatious neighbour is
the perfect place to experience southern
Italys vast, untrammelled landscapes.
Thats not to say that Ischia doesnt
indulge its sybaritic side. Hotels such as
Clockwise: freshly squeezed juice; Hotel Miramare;

the harbour at Lacco Ameno. Opposite, Charlie
Chaplin suite at LAlbergo della Regina Isabella
LAlbergo della Regina Isabella (www.

reginaisabella.com; doubles from about
175), in Lacco Ameno, recall its
Hollywood heyday when Richard Burton
and Elizabeth Taylor lmed Cleopatras
barge scene at a nearby cove. So, too, does
Ristorante Alberto in Ischia Porto (www.
albertoischia.it; dinner about 150 for two).
Already renowned for its seaside views
intensied by the oor-to-ceiling glass
windows and celebrity following, it
could easily have let its standards slip. But
more than 70 years on, its reputation for
superb local cooking (such as sea bream,
cooked whole) remains undiminished.
Ischias real charm, however, lies in its
shing villages, whose delicate yellows and
pinks and greens were celebrated in a
poem by WH Auden. Closed to cars, the
hamlet of SantAngelo, which faces a
SOMEWHERE FOR THE WEEKEND: ISCHIA
volcanic islet dotted with the ruins of

an ancient monastery, is the most appealing
a kaleidoscope of violently purple owers,
whitewashed hillside houses and trailing
vines. At night, the seaside piazzetta comes
alive as shermen and fashion designers
alike dock their boats and gather at
panoramic caf-bars including La Pirata
and Il Pescatore to sip limoncello by
moonlight (Versaces boat was once a
xture on the marina). After the aperitivo,
however, most people head off the main
square for dinner. The antiquity-themed
Ristorante Neptunus (www.ristorante
neptunus.com; dinner about 100 for two),
overlooking a sparkling and secluded cove,
is SantAngelos most elegant option: its
best dishes, such as the lightly grilled sea
bass, are perfect in their simplicity.
Hotel Miramare (www.hotelmiramare.it;
doubles from 190) is perhaps the obvious
choice in SantAngelo; its cliffside setting,
with rooms facing straight onto the sea,
is lovely, and guests can take a private
shortcut to Maronti Beach. For the more
adventurous, Casa Garibaldi (www.casa
garibaldi.com; doubles from 60), about
20 minutes walk uphill, is a sprawling
labyrinth of a villa, where paths meander
into hidden g orchards or over rabbit
warrens. The hotel has been run by the

same family for decades, and personal
touches are in evidence throughout:
breakfast, taken on the tiled terrace
overlooking the harbour, invariably arrives
with matriarch Giuseppinas homemade
marmalade (come at the weekend for
generous hunks of her famous brioche).
Walk down to one of the nearby beaches
for a swim, or take a detour to the fragrant
THE HOTEL HAS BEEN

RUN BY THE SAME FAMILY
FOR YEARS. COME AT THE
WEEKEND FOR HUNKS
OF HOMEMADE BRIOCHE
gardens at nearby Aphrodite Apollon
(www.aphroditeapollon.it; about 20 for
a day pass) for a dip in the dozen thermal
pools each named after a different
Greek god or the natural grotto.
A 40-minute walk (or ve-minute water
taxi) away, in the shadow of volcanic
cliffs, lies one of Ischias hidden highlights:
This page, Ristorante Alberto in Ischia Porto.
Opposite, from top, the beach at Negombo;
Trattoria Casa Colonica at Negombo
the Cavascura baths (www.cavascura.it),

hewn out of the rock and in virtually
continuous use since the days of ancient
Rome. The hike, through dry brush and
yellow wildowers, is a rewarding one:
Taverna Pietro Paolo detto Stalino (+39
081 905870; lunch about 25 for two), in a
traditional house at the foot of the cliffs,
serves huge and outrageously inexpensive
portions of local comfort food, from linguine
alla vongole to freshly trawled seafood.
When it comes to a beachside lunch,
however, there is only one option:
Ristorante Emanuela (www.ristorante
manuela.com; lunch about 50 for two),
which serves the best seafood in southern
Italy. Although Emanuela herself has
retired, handing over the day-to-day
running of the place to strapping sons
Sergio and Filippo, her spirit lives on
in the spaghetti dish that bears her name:
a rich and piquant blend of shellsh,
tomato and peperoncino that goes best
with a carafe of percoca nel vino, a
traditional Neapolitan peach sangria.
Yet Ischias attractions are not conned
to the seaside. Head inland to the towns
of Serrara and Barano, where sweltering
heat is replaced by a crisp mountain breeze,
and the bare tufa gives way to sprawling
forests and overgrown orchards ripe with

blackberries and gs. Less busy than the
seaside, the uplands are home to Ischias
most famous dish: coniglio allischitana,
rabbit served whole with copious amounts
of garlic, tomato, olive oil and peperoncino.
Al Comignolo (+39 081 999422; lunch
about 60 for two, booking essential) near
Serrara is said to have the best coniglio
on the island; call ahead to order the
tasting menu that includes not only

the dish itself, but also rich and gamey
rabbit-strewn bucatini and stfuls of
freshly plucked grapes. Ristorante LArca
(www.ristorantelarca.it; lunch about 75
for two), built somewhat precariously
above a sheer drop a few miles down the
road, is a smarter place, with windows
looking over miles of vineyard plunging
coastward towards the sea.
For pure drama, however, nowhere in

Ischia can rival Ristorante La Grotta
Epomeo (www.epomeolagrotta.it; lunch
about 85 for two), carved into tufa at the
peak of Monte Epomeo, a half-days hike
from SantAngelo. With views over the
entire island from the wildower elds
around Serrara to the shimmering blue
of Maronti beach it may not be Mount
Olympus, but it comes close.
INSIDER TIPS
At Da Ciccio (+39 081
991686; dinner about 50
for two) in Ischia Ponte, the
big red prawns are fabulous,
as is the stuffed squid. The
pasta is a highlight: either
the linguine with clams and
courgettes, or fusilli with
squid and aubergine in a
rich tomato sauce.
The Sicilian chef who
runs Un Attimo diVino (+39
081 1936 8069; dinner
about 65 for two) in Ischia
Porto usually has some very
interesting delicacies, sent
from home by his family.
The best gelato can be

found at the family-run
Trani Pasticceria (+39 081
984973) near the Museo del
Mare: the dark-chocolate
avour is particularly good.
The real speciality here is
a gorgeous range of cakes
and pastries: the thing to
take along if invited round
to someones home.
One of the best beaches
is Spiaggia dei Pescatori,
overlooking the ruins of the
Castello Aragonese. At the
western end is Bar Lilly da
Bruno, which you should
visit for a platter of tomatoes,

Parma ham and mozzarella,
with garden-fresh gs if you
are very lucky. At many bars
and restaurants, seasonal
treats marinated prawns,
or a bowl of roast chestnuts
in autumn will sometimes
appear without notice, and
are rarely charged for.
The best thermal spa by
far is Negombo (www.
negombo.it; day passes from
25), not only for its pools
but also for its setting amid
gorgeous gardens scattered
with unusual works of art.
OUT OF MY
COMFORT ZONE
TOURIST
INFORMATION
FOR
Toad Hall
THE VICTIM
DJ and TV presenter
Alex Zane, who is
such a scaredy-cat
he hasnt been in
the sea since watching
Jaws, aged ve
Set on the leaer banks of the Thames, this
red-brick stately home is considered the nest
house on the river. Its now looked after by
English Heritage, though the aristocratic
owner an eccentric, cross-dressing hobbyist
who squandered much of the family wealth
on vintage cars is still in residence.
Hurling himself
off the top of
the tallest hotel
in Berlin for
others amusement
WHAT THE HELL AM I DOING?

I mumble as I stand on the rain-soaked
roof, 37 oors up, of the Park Inn Hotel. No
one says anything: theyre too busy strapping
me into a harness and attaching it to a
high-tensile steel cable. Ready to go ying?
asks Gerry, the head strapper-inner.
When I landed in Berlin 24 hours earlier
I was aware that Id eventually nd myself
on that hotel roof. I was there to look into
the citys burgeoning urban-adventure scene,
which includes base-ying. This involves
being released from 150 metres up in the
air and reaching the same speed you would
had you actually been free-falling, before
the cable youre attached to stops just 10
metres above the ground. Id been very
rm with the production team of the show
I was lming that under no circumstances
was I jumping off that roof I was just
watching other people do it. Of course, you
dont have to do it, was the response.
Were not expecting you to actually jump.
I have never sought out adventure thrills.
For one, I imagine that being an adrenalin
junkie involves a great deal of vest wearing.
When I wear a vest it looks more like
someone has draped a bed sheet around
a broom handle; my muscles dont so
much ripple as struggle. Im aware there
are activities that dont require any level
of athleticism. I have a friend who attempts
to imbue in me the joys of rollercoasters.
Every year, we traipse round theme parks,
him pleading for me to just give it a try.

And every year I sit on a bench watching
him, eating ice cream. Im happy doing that.
Im not one of those people who says fear
makes them Feel alive! If I want to feel
alive, Ill go to the Natural History Museum
and laugh at the dinosaur skeletons.
So youll understand just how surprised
I am when I follow Gerry to the edge of
that Berlin rooftop. I have a nal question
for him as we walk the plank. How many
people have died doing this? Gerry points
to a sign indicating they have done 19,233
descents without anything going wrong.
I was hoping for something more in the
millions. And that sign is just pen on a
whiteboard: you could write anything on
there. A digital readout would have been
nicer or at least something laminated.
Against my better judgement I allow
myself to be swung into a horizontal position
before being pushed out into thin air and
left to dangle. Im staring at the ground
500 feet below me, with only the cable
preventing me from becoming a mark on
the pavement. Its time for the countdown
from 10. If you ever decide to give this a go,
you should know that Gerrys countdown is
completely arbitrary. I watched him release
people on seven, four and the letter B.
Thankfully, I am prepared when he releases
me with three seconds to go.
The drop itself is a blur. At rst, my
brain tries to process why the ground is
WHAT TO PACK 1 A guide to animal

etiquette. 2 Your best tweeds and Edwardianstyle whiskers. 3 A manicure set: all that
digging in earth plays havoc with your nails
WHERE TO STAY If Toad Hall is fully
occupied by stoats and weasels, try Badgers
labyrinthine B&B in the Wild Wood nearby
WHAT TO DO With one exception, locals
here enjoy life in the slow lane. Theres nothing
half so much worth doing as simply messing
about in boats but you could also try wild
swimming, panpipe playing and story-telling
TRAVEL ADVICE If you hear a

Poop, poop sound on the road, take evasive
action. Due to recent ooding, parts of the
river bank may be out of bounds. Never, ever
mention the badger cull. RICK JORDAN
rushing towards it, before realising it has
no prior experience to reference this
moment against. Then, just as the earth is
getting unnervingly close, the winch pulls
me back from the brink, slowing me until
I touch down softly, like that feather at
the start of Forrest Gump except with
tears and snot streaming down my face.
Would I do it again? It was certainly
a rush; I experienced intense exhilaration,
and was overcome with the sheer joy of
not being dead. So, the short answer is no.
Absolutely not.
Alex Zane is an Amex Travel Insider.
See more adventures at www.youtube.com/
AmericanExpressUK
PHOTOGRAPHS: ALPHA; LOOK AND LEARN/THE BRIDGEMAN ART LIBRARY
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2014 Hilton Worldwide
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WHERE TO STAY
Reviews of the month in New Mexico Cumbria Somerset Plus Paloma Faith
EDITED BY PETER BROWNE
TECHNICOLOUR
DREAM TRIP
People go nuts for this nutty
Santa Fe hotel. But, as Alix Sharkey
discovers, its not for sale
A few months ago, while staying at The Inn of
the Five Graces, a billionaire CEO told owners
Ira and Sylvia Seret that he wanted to purchase
their hotel, and would pay cash. But when I asked
him why, says Ira, he couldnt say. He loved the
place but couldnt gure it out, and it was driving
him crazy. Seret politely declined his offer.
Id rst heard about the Five Graces in
2001 when I befriended the Serets eldest son,
lm-maker Isaiah Seret, during a Buddhist
retreat in the Canadian Rockies. His description
of it, and his own love of texture, colour, pattern
WHERE TO STAY
From above: owners Ira and Sylvia Seret; a Life

magazine shoot in 1968 with Serets Afghan
coats; a bedroom at The Inn of the Five Graces
and embroidery, which he attributed

to parental inuence, had always intrigued
me. But it wasnt until late last year that
I nally made the trip to the USAs
highest state capital, at 7,000ft above sea
level, to stay with his folks.
Discreetly located in Santa Fes Barrio
de Analco, one of the countrys oldest
residential neighbourhoods, the Five Graces
exudes an air of mystery. Its dusky-pink
walls enclose lantern-lit balconies, halfglimpsed terraces and interlocking stone
courtyards that extend from the rooms.
But its spell lies within: each one of
the 24 rooms and suites is decorated in
an eclectic, almost psychedelic style:
Afghan suzanis (embroidered silks given
as dowry items) and Pakistani dhurries
(cotton carpets), ancient Tibetan chests
and painted panels, Pueblo-Indian and
central-African textiles, carved wooden
doors from Rajasthan. Armchairs and
sofas are upholstered in reversed chenille
or at-woven carpet. Each living room
has a wood-burning re, each replace
decorated with traditional Pueblo ceramics.
Massive bathrooms have washbasins
crafted from semi-precious stone and
lavish mosaics depicting kabbalist, Suc
or biblical themes; even the atscreen
TVs are covered in silk slipcovers.
Only after my eye has gorged on this
controlled delirium of colour, image
and texture does a sense of master
craftsmanship emerge, macro to micro
level. Theres barely a straight line
anywhere; the coppered ceilings slope
gently, the burnt-sand adobe walls have
softly rounded corners. Curtains, bed
covers, rugs and furnishings: every
gem-coloured textile is woven, dyed or
embroidered by hand. Bunches of dried
red peppers hang on doors in typical New

Mexican style. Even the green-chilli sauce
served with my breakfast is homemade.
I suspect it was this combination of
aesthetic wealth and artisanal warmth
that the billionaire CEO instinctively
wanted to possess. But Im certain that
without the Serets to translate its Byzantine
semantics, the hotels dense visual language
would rapidly descend into cacophony.
For Ira Seret, the road to Santa Fe was
anything but direct. Born in Queens, he
was working among the Warholian milieu
in 1968 when he stumbled across three
embroidered Afghan sheepskin coats.
Amazed at their quality, he promptly
bought them and put them in the window
AFTER MY EYE HAS

GORGED ON THIS
CONTROLLED DELIRIUM
OF COLOUR, THE
CRAFT EMERGES
of a friends boutique. They got a great
reaction. The late designer Anne Klein
gave him $5,000 to supply 250 more; Diana
Vreeland loved them and put them in a
photoshoot for Vogue. So when his source
vanished with the cash a week before
publication, a nervous 25-year-old Seret had
to y to Kabul to secure the merchandise
personally. He had no idea what to expect.
The sounds, the smells, the sights were
amazing, he recalls. Camels and donkeys
loaded with fruits and fabrics, Afghan
music blaring. Men with turbans and
long white beards in the market; women
and children laughing in the streets.
So began a lifelong love affair with the
East. The coat trade secured he ended
up shipping thousands Seret bought a

handful of sewing machines and hired
locals to make clothes that he wholesaled
in New York. He fabricated indoor tents,
feeding the interior-decor craze of the
early 1970s, and sourced suzanis. After a
brief misstep importing lapis, he scoured
Pakistan and India for vintage silk and
cotton dhurries (traditionally made by
prisoners for wardens and guards), which
he supplied to Stark, then the USAs
biggest quality-rug merchant.
By 1975, he and Sylvia had built their
own factories and looms in Afghanistan
and Pakistan, and were employing dozens
of people to create at-woven rugs and
dhurries. An early custom order was
for Gloria Vanderbilt. She wanted a
specic design, with horses and elephants.
Even today, artefacts from those looms
can be found at his shop near the hotel,
Seret & Sons. Opened in 1989, this
70,000sq ft gallery houses the Serets
vast collection of contemporary and
antique rugs, as well as the doors, tables,
panels, prints, fabrics and furniture
that furnish the hotel.
On the morning Im checking out, its
announced that the inn has come rst
in a magazine readers poll of Top 10
hotels in the south-west USA. Second
year running, says Ira. Were in for a
busy holiday season. I ask why he thinks
his hotel, with its insanely exotic and totally
indenable aesthetic, is so popular.
People just dont want to leave their
rooms, he says. Especially couples. Theyre
always telling us how they love to hang
out in the bathrooms. And thats ne by us.
Thats why we made them so big.
THE INN OF THE FIVE GRACES

150 EAST DEVARGAS STREET,
SANTA FE, NEW MEXICO (+1 505
992 0957; WWW.FIVEGRACES.COM).
DOUBLES FROM ABOUT 400
WHERE TO STAY
BED-HOPPING WITH PALOMA FAITH

The charismatic singer and fashion muse tells Francesca Babb about her favourite hotels
MADONNA INN,
THE DORCHESTER, LONDON
Its nice to stay in hotels in your own

city, because it gives you a different
perspective. The Dorchester deserves
its reputation: the attention to detail is
great and the rooms are lovely;
a bit old-lady or quite modern,
depending on which part of the hotel
youre in. www.dorchestercollection.com.
Doubles from 445
CALIFORNIA
The ultimate kitsch getaway.
Every room is themed I
switched each night for a
change of vibe and the whole
place has a cinematic feel:
the pool is very Leaving Las
Vegas. On Saturday, old people
come to do ballroom dancing,
which makes me want to
cry. www.madonnainn.com.
Doubles from about 110
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IRU FUSHI BEACH & SPA,
MALDIVES
This is without a doubt the best hotel I
have ever been to, and the best holiday
Ive had. I was in an overwater villa,
so I went to sleep listening to the waves.
But theres nothing much to do, so
dont go with someone you might nd
even mildly irritating. www.irufushi.com.
Beach villas from about 155
THE MADONNA INN

RESTAURANT IS
LIKE SOMETHING
OUT OF A COEN
BROTHERS MOVIE
THE BOWERY HOTEL,
NEW YORK
Here, the main selling point for me
is the bar which, for a Londoner,
feels like a bit of a home away from
home. Plus, the staff are really
helpful, and if you go back two or
three times they remember you.
It looks great, too. Ive even copied
some of the brass bathroom ttings
for my own house. www.thebowery
hotel.com. Doubles from about 270
TIBOURG, PARIS
Theres no room to swing
a cat, but this place has
nice interiors with a Dylan
Thomas vibe. It was
recommended to me by
a friend in Paris and I try
to stay here whenever Im
in town. Its the sort of
place youd go for a seedy
weekend with a new lover:
not all bells and whistles,
more of a secret escape.
http://bourgtibourg.com.
Paloma Faiths new album, A Perfect Contradiction, is out now

THE REDBURY, LOS ANGELES

Its not perfect sometimes you have to
move rooms if theres a loud party but I
always come back; I even lived here for a
few months. Each apartment has a
kitchenette and a portable record player
with vinyl, and it feels quite European.
You cant walk anywhere in LA, but
thankfully there are shops, nail bars and
restaurants nearby. www.the
redbury.com. Doubles from about 140
PHOTOGRAPH: DAVID SANDISON/EYEVINE
HOTEL BOURG
PARK AVENUE
AT YOUR
DOORSTEP,
THE CITY AT
YOUR FEET
loewshotels.com/regency-hotel
800.23.LOEWS
OPENING NEW DOORS.
WHERE TO STAY
EAT Served in the airy bistro-style
restaurant with its gaily patterned Spanish
oor tiles or in the panelled and candlelit
former family dining room, the food
is sensational. Chef Richard Swale draws
inuence from, among others, Magnus
Nilsson of Fviken in Sweden and
Shaun Hill of The Walnut Tree. Produce
from the huge kitchen garden and the
surrounding Lowther estates is key and
the combinations are inspired: slowcooked duck breast in vanilla oil, with
g, glazed foie gras, grilled leeks, walnut
and salad burnet; Lowther venison
with rosehip, Parmesan gnocchi, squash,
kale and nasturtium. Home-preserved
fruits and vegetables are used to great
effect in winter, wild food such as garlic,
mushrooms and alexanders in spring and
autumn. Everything looks pretty, even
the charmingly illustrated menu.
THE CROWD The arty, literary and
lovers of the great outdoors.
WE LIKE The honesty bar. The addition
of an outdoor pool and small spa.
WE DONT LIKE The entrance hall,
chilly on our visit.
CONTACT +44 1931 712350;
www.askhamhall.co.uk. Doubles
from 150 fiona duncan
THE WEEKENDER
ASKHAM HALL CUMBRIA
BEHIND THE SCENES Owner Charlie

Lowther has, with the permission of his
mother Caroline, Countess of Lonsdale,
refurbished and reinvented his beautiful
family home, with its medieval peel
tower and surrounding romantic gardens.
He and his artist wife Juno have already
made a success of the George and
Dragon at nearby Clifton and the stylish
Askham Hall Kitchen Garden Caf, and
are now intent on creating a spoiling
Cumbrian bolthole where stufness is

banished and the place is yours; its
something between Shoreditch House
and a private home. When you walk in,
focus on the large portrait by Juno at
the top of the stairs depicting a striking
black woman. It gives two ngers to all
the old family portraits that hung there
before, says Charlie. Its my mission
statement about the new Askham Hall.
SLEEP To get rid of the hotel feel,
room names are on the key fobs but
not the doors, so nding yours at rst
(there are 13) can be an adventure. The
rooms range from the extraordinary
(Lonsdale, with a marvellously OTT
canopied bathroom ceiling and matching
wallpaper teeming with busy Balinese
prints) to the nicely different (Park
View, overlooking the River Lowther,
with a gilded and mirrored door, open
drench shower, antique sleigh bed and
table for two in the window).
WHILE YOURE HERE

Celebrated ceramicist Stuart
Broadhurst made Askham Halls lovely
dinner plates and his gallery and pottery
(www.stuartbroadhurstceramics.co.uk),
above, is in picturesque Askham, with
its two pubs and thriving village stores.
Entry to the halls gardens and farm is
free for hotel guests. Walk through the
woods to Low Gardens Bridge and up
the drive to enigmatic Lowther Castle
(www.lowthercastle.org), which is
surrounded by stately parkland.
PHOTOGRAPH: JONATHAN MARCHANT
WHAT IS IT? A new place to stay in the

Lake District, which is full of traditional
hotels but devoid, until recently, of newwave addresses where you can kick back
in style surrounded by some of the most
beautiful scenery in the land. Askham
Hall, in a little-known area between
Ullswater and the Eden Valley, joins that
group with a very unusual combination: a
Grade I-listed manor house thats packed
with history, charm and personality but
is also funky, contemporary and eclectic.
WHERE TO STAY
SALLY SHALAMS GREAT BRITISH BREAKS

This month, our happy wanderer taps into her creative side to trace
an artistic trail around southern England, from Somerset to Sussex
ust when I think Ive seen it all,

something comes along to sweep
away my holiday-house ennui.
Enter The Farmhouse, part of the eagerly
anticipated and widely reported on
Hauser & Wirth contemporary gallery
complex (www.hauserwirthsomerset.com)
created around an 18th-century model
farm in Somerset.
Although the ve exhibition spaces
and restaurant-bar (by the team behind
At The Chapel, Brutons hip restaurantwith-rooms) wont be nished until
June, refurbishment of The Farmhouse, by
Paris-based architects Luis Laplace, is already
complete. And on the basis of a preview, I am
convinced that, even without a beach in sight, this
will be the most sought-after holiday pad in the south
this summer. I can think of no art gallery on this scale
which also has rooms. Nor have I found a holiday
cottage which, along with the Aga and rustic views,
has a video-art installation in the sitting room.
Flatscreen telly suddenly seems so pass.
Rough-stripped walls contrast with crisp Toile
de Jouy; junk-shop nds with photographic works
by American artist Roni Horn, and the intensely
coloured dining room is itself a work of art by
Argentinian Guillermo Kuitca. The six bedrooms
are a tongue-in-cheek homage to the Sixties with
Lloyd Loom chairs and pink, turquoise and yellow
bathroom ttings (reconditioned, youll be glad
to know). Some even have the little door tiles
(Nickys Room, Jackies Room) every schoolchild
once stuck on their bedroom door. As country
houses go, its in a class of its own.
Last autumn, I nally made it to another farmhouse

I had been meaning to visit for some time. Buried in
the soft landscape of the Sussex Weald, Charleston
(www.charleston.org.uk) was famously the country
home and creative haven of the Bloomsbury
Group. Artists Duncan Grant and Vanessa Bell left
behind a treasure house of pattern and colour
fabrics such as Bells Abstract, walls painted charcoal
and Pompeiian red which makes one wonder
how we ever got so hooked on greige. It has just
reopened for the 2014 season and the art collection
includes work by Sickert and Pissarro. I shall never
drive this way again without allowing time to revisit.
On the same trip I stopped in Alfriston for a
cheese-and-pecan scone at Badgers Tea House
(www.badgersteahouse.com) then headed to the
Wealden village of Burwash where Pelham Hall
B&B (www.pelhamhall.co.uk; doubles from 105)
proved to be a suitably decorative follow-up to a
Charleston visit.
One of my favourite places for art that I can
actually take home is Lemon Street Gallery in
Truro (www.lemonstreetgallery.co.uk), which holds
exhibitions in a lovely townhouse this month you
can see Neil Cannings abstracts. Lemon Street
itself is an elegant thoroughfare bordered by
Georgian houses and a beautiful Art Deco cinema
(though the attached caf misses a trick by ignoring
its 1930s attributes). Truro even has a newly
polished-up hotel, The Alverton (www.thealverton.
co.uk; doubles from 129), an 1830s gentlemans
residence which now has
a cool bar, a soaring
chapel and, even rarer
for a city billet, a sunny
terrace for Cornish
afternoon tea. If your
art acquisition hasnt
emptied the account, pop
into Bishop Phillpott
(www.bishopphillpott.
co.uk) tucked into a
narrow lane beside the
cathedral, for J Brand
jeans and wonderful
Duffy cashmere.
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A LETTER FROM
Its heritage may be beyond question, but in Santo Domingo everything else can be faked
for a price, says long-time resident Jennifer Clement. Illustration by Marc Aspinall
hen i y into Mexico

City at night, the vast
expanse of lights
from street lamps, cars,
buildings and billboards makes
me think the stars have spilled
down across the grand metropolis.
In the rainy season especially, during
June and July, the air is so clear
and the lights so bright that, when
viewed from above, even their
spectrums are on display. From the
sky, I can see the illumination of
the citys main square and, to one
side, the Plaza de Santo Domingo,
which is unlit and looks like a dark,
rectangular pool of water.
The Plaza de Santo Domingo
is one of the most interesting
locations in the capital, as most
of its original buildings, such as
the Palace of the Inquisition
and the majestic church of Santo
Domingo de Guzmn, still stand.
In 1987, in recognition of the
architectural beauty and historical
signicance of this area, UNESCO
named downtown Mexico City
a World Heritage Site.
For more than 100 years, Santo
Domingo has been the place where
the citys scribes practise their trade.
In rooms and ofces in buildings
lining the square, or out in the open
on small metal tables or boxes, men
and women sit at typewriters or
computers and ll out forms. This
is a country where more than six
per cent of the population is still
illiterate (in the UK, the gure
is about one per cent) and many
more digitally illiterate.
As a child, I used to come here
with my mother to buy stationery or
have cards made. Recently, I visited
the square to order a new set of
business cards. As I walked beside

the rows of men and women
working at typewriters or computers,
moving in the direction of the
stores that sell greetings cards and
print wedding announcements
and invitations of all kinds, I was
approached by a number of people
keen to tout their services.
You want a school certicate?
a young woman asked. Receipts
for tax purposes?
I can get you a diploma from any
university, even Oxford, one man
said with a wink and a smile.
In Mexico, people like to joke,
I got my degree from the University
of Santo Domingo. This area is
the hub of the countrys huge
forgery industry. Here, a person
I sat on a metal fold-out chair

beside him as he quizzed me and
typed with dexterity at the keys
with two ngers.
What does your man look like?
How old is he? Is he strong? Is he
a faithful man? What actor would
you compare him to? he asked.
I saw there was a sign hanging
on the back of the mans chair.
It advertised: Letters: love letters,
revenge letters, letters for priests,
letters for government ofcials.
As he typed, it began to rain.
Huge drops, which only fall during
Mexicos summer months, speckled
the ground and, as the water hit the
old stones, the square was lled with
a drumming sound.
What is your favourite ower?
This is the hub of Mexicos huge forgery

industry. I can get you a diploma from any
university, even Oxford, one man said
can purchase birth certicates,
passports, driving licences, police
identication cards and, of course,
counterfeit money.
As I walked towards a small
printing shop, an old man, his hands
stained from carbon paper, sat at
an ancient-looking typewriter with
several keys missing.
Dont you want me to write
a love letter for you? he asked.
His question made me stop.
Im known for writing love
letters, he said. Im almost a poet.
How many love letters have
you written? I asked.
In the 60 years Ive worked
here, Ive written thousands.
Yes, I answered. Write a
love letter for me.
What do you like to do? the man

enquired. What makes you happy?
Can you live without him?
Ten minutes later, he rolled the
letter out of the typewriter and
placed it inside a plastic bag.
Dont let the letter get wet, he
said. The raindrops on the paper
will look like tears.
Yes. Ill be careful, I promised.
But then again, he continued,
it may be you want your lover to
think you were crying.
In Mexico City, in the summer,
even tears can be counterfeit.
Jennifer Clements Prayers for the
Stolen (Hogarth, 12.99) is out
now. The author will be speaking
at this years Hay Festival. Visit
www.hayfestival.com for details
T RAVELLER PROM OT ION
he driving force in the evolution of ros, launching its Cuve

Ros in 1968; the rst House to re-introduce the concept of
Brut nature champagne, in 1981, with its Ultra Brut;
environmentally friendly policies in all elds of its activities,
including sustainable grape-growing, respect for the
environment and natural resources, and attaining a balance
between biological and human factors: welcome to the world
of Champagne Laurent-Perrier.
It is little wonder, given such an interwoven horticultural,
oenological and environmental history, that Laurent-Perrier
continues to be a prominent partisan (and the ofcial
champagne sponsor) at that most gracious celebration of all
things green, the RHS Chelsea Flower Show. Indeed, this will
be the 16th consecutive year the famous French Champagne
House will be exhibiting having previously won two Best in
Shows (2003 and 2008), 13 Gold Medals and two Silver Gilts.
An impressive line-up indeed, to add to its multitude of
oenological awards and, like its champagnes, this years
Show Garden (under the artistic direction of award-winning
designer Luciano Giubbilei) promises to be as colourful, clever
and classic as ever.
PURE FINESSE
The design is still under wraps, but as a taster think subtle
layers, texture, form and light (sound familiar?). Think
simplicity juxtaposed with detailing, an exploration of the
contrasting concepts of stillness and movement, elegance
and rawness. Think a combination of lustres and stone, light
and animation, plus deep, rich colours. Its enough to make
you think of Laurent-Perriers glorious Grand Sicle
champagne indeed, the 2014 Show Garden is intended to
symbolise the depth, nesse, complex character and
consistency of this prestigious cuve, the pinnacle of
champagne-blending using wines from the nest Grand Cru
growths and the very best vintages. But we digress (easily
done): back to the Show Garden. This is the third Show
Garden Luciano Giubbilei has designed for Laurent-Perrier,
following Gold medal-winning gardens in 2009 and 2011.
Expectations are running high even without the new
addition of a strong wooden sculpture created by highlyacclaimed American artist Ursula von Rydingsvard, designed
to focus viewers minds once more on texture. Constructed
in meticulously assembled layers of cedar, the inclusion of
this expressive piece marks the commencement of a new
A B S O L U T E LY
GRAND
A visit to the contemporary Champagne Laurent-Perrier Garden at the

RHS Chelsea Flower Show followed by tea, talks and the toast of the
champagne world, Champagne Laurent-Perriers iconic Grand Cuve, at
The Dorchester what more excuse do you need?
partnership between Laurent-Perrier and the Yorkshire

Sculpture Park (YSP).
PHOTOGRAPHY: THOMAS ROHDE
AFTERNOON TEA SERIES

SPEAKERS:
Monday
The Hon. Daniel Brennan Head of Marketing

at Champagne Laurent-Perrier will speak about
the history and heritage of The House.
Tuesday
S TAY
In celebration of the RHS Chelsea Flower Show
Laurent-Perrier Garden, The Dorchester is offering
its very own Chelsea Flower Show stay where
guests can enjoy a luxurious nights sleep in
preparation for a day full of oral delights. The offer
Wednesday Roja Dove British Master Perfumer and

fragrance historian will speak about the power
of scent and the limited edition candle inspired
by the cedar wood in the 2014 Laurent-Perrier
RHS Chelsea Flower Show Garden.
Thursday
Mich Turner MBE Founder of The Little Venice

Cake Company will speak about the glittering
world of cake design and celebrity events.
Friday
Phil Hammond Designer Florist at The

Dorchester will speak about the inspirations
includes one nights accommodation and two

highly sought-after tickets to the RHS Chelsea
Flower Show on Wednesday 21st May, the Royal
Horticultural Society day, tickets to which are not
Thomas Messel Nephew of Oliver Messel will

speak about the inspirations and life of the
renowned theatre designer.
available to the general public. The package also
behind his renowned oral creations.
includes Chelsea Flower Show Afternoon Tea in The

Penthouse and Pavilion surrounded by oral
decorations by the renowned Designer Florist at The
Saturday
Wedgewood
Sunday
Wedgewood
Dorchester, Phil Hammond. Prices are from 750 per

room per night for a Deluxe King room, including
VAT, available on Tuesday 20th May and Wednesday
21st May. For further information or reservations,
contact reservations.uk@dorchestercollection.com
or call +44 (0)20 7629 8888.
Terms and conditions apply.
For the rst time, this special Tea event will take place in The
Dorchesters Penthouse and Pavilion, whose outdoor terrace
boasts spectacular views of the London skyline. The suite is
the only public place in London where guests can view rooms
designed by renowned theatre designer Oliver Messel; the
fact the Suites are listed by English Heritage only underscores
their artistic legacy. Out on the Pavilion, guests will be
surrounded by a themed garden by The Dorchesters designer
orist Phil Hammond, in collaboration with Luciano Giubbilei.
Here guests can listen to a line-up of specialist speakers
whose subjects bet such an occasion, from oristry to cake
design, scent to celebrity events, and even Oliver Messel's
nephew. The Rooftop Afternoon Tea Series will include nger
sandwiches, scones and delicious pastries such as apricot
lavender tarts, rhubarb and acacia honey nancier with rose
ower cream, and strawberry, lemon and verbena layered cake
all complemented, naturally, by the honeyed, nutty avours
of Grand Sicle by Laurent-Perrier champagne. Treats, treats
and more treats our kind of occasion.
In essence, the Laurent-Perrier Show Garden is intended to
once again reect the elegance, creativity and pioneering
AFTERNOON TEA
spirit of the 200-year-old, family-run Champagne House.

Which brings us back to the champagne. And, once you have
The Rooftop Afternoon Teas at The Dorchester, priced at
soaked up the aroma, savoured the colours and raised a glass
75 per person, will be available during the week of the RHS
to the sheer brilliance of the RHS Chelsea Flower Show
Chelsea Flower Show, with two sittings at 2:00pm and
Laurent-Perrier Garden, where better to enjoy a glass of the
4:30pm, and will include a glass of Grand Sicle by Laurent-
designers inspiration than at Londons other great classic;
Perrier champagne and an exclusive gift on departure
The Dorchester, Park Lane. For, in celebration of the RHS
representing a ower from the RHS Chelsea Flower Show
Chelsea Flower Show 2014, this iconic British hotel is
Garden. For further information, visit twitter.com/
partnering with Champagne Laurent-Perrier to launch a
champagneLPUK; facebook.com/LaurentPerrierUK;
Rooftop Afternoon Tea Series, with a week of specialist talks
bloguk.laurent-perrier.com. To reserve your place, call
from 19 25 May 2014.
The Dorchester on +44 (0) 20 7319 7102.
Please check the website for further details on all conrmed speakers.
STYLE FILE
BY FIONA LINTOTT
PLUS Watches Beauty & The scene
GOVE
I PRESENT TO YOU...MICHAEL AN
ARTIST AND
DESIGNER
Hes the latest
talent to work
with Jo Malone,
creating new
nature-inspired
packaging for its
home fragrances.
ON TRAVEL
The Isles of Scilly off the coast of Cornwall are pretty
remote and I love them more than any other place. They
are incredibly British but also have beaches not unlike the
Caribbean, and their own microclimate, with exotic plants. Last
year, my partner and I went on holidays to Jersey and visited
many unusual museums, including St Matthews Glass Church;
its known for its glasswork by Ren Lalique.
Demi leather skate shoes, 325,

Jimmy Choo (www.jimmychoo.com)
Skate board, 75, Fausto Puglisi at Selfridges

(www.selfridges.com)
Silver leather skate shoes, 305, Hedi Slimane

(www.ysl.com)
Skate board, 75, Kenzo at Selfridges
ON PLANT LIFE
I redesigned and built our garden last year and spent a fortune on
spring owering bulbs, including scented white narcissus, a dwarf
daffodil called Toto, woodland anemone, snowdrops and yellow
apeldoorn tulips. But Im most excited about my fritillaria persica,
an extraordinary plant with spires of cocoa-coloured owers.
Lord Zelco skaters, 65, Rivieras

(www.asos.com)
ON LANDSCAPES
NEXT UP?
Im working on a project with paint company Farrow & Ball.
TWO MORE NATURAL DESIGNERS
From left: snow scene wallpaper, 105 a roll, Aime Wilder

(www.aimeewilder.com); pineapple pattern wallpaper, 40 a roll,
Jenny Wilkinson (www.jennywilkinson.com)
Skate board, 75, Peter Pilotto at Selfridges
Doug skaters, 75, Sperry X Orlebar Brown

(www.orlebarbrown.co.uk)
The wheels are off

Skate shoes are treading a well-worn path this
spring and Selfridges, never one to miss
a beat, has just transformed its London
store into a board sports spectacular. Its full
of limited-edition surf boards, with a skate
park in the Old Selfridges Hotel and experts
from Slam City Skates there to advise
and, with any luck, hold your hand.
ILLUSTRATION: HANNAH GEORGE PHOTOGRAPS: JM KUCY/JMK-GALLERY
Dungeness on the south coast is popular among in-the-know

Londoners wanting to get out of town. It is a uniquely haunting
spot, distant and remote. It is where the lm-maker Derek
Jarman lived. There is a lighthouse on a shingle beach with many
old painted shermens huts encased in black rubber.
Postcard from Doberai Eco Resort, Raja Ampat, Indonesia
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:HVW3DSXD%XWLWVSDUWRIWKH&RUDO
7ULDQJOHDQXQGHUZDWHUSOD\JURXQGZKHUH
ZHGLYHGZLWKPDQWDUD\VDQGUHHIVKDUNV
Buzz words
FRAGGLE FLAMBOYANCE
Im back from...New York
The Greenwich Hotel was
my home for a long weekend.
Venturing out of Tribeca, I headed to the
Upper East Side after hearing all the much-warranted
noise surrounding The East Pole restaurant
to try a colourful menu that includes purple cauliower
and black lentils. The shop gossip led me to Creel
and Gow. If ever a place could inspire me to empty
the contents of my house and start again, this is it. A block away
at Fivestory, off Madison Avenue, I
got distracted from interiors and racked
up excess baggage charges after buying a
new wardrobes worth of NYC label Suno.
Inspired by...
Fioraio Bianchi Caff, the raw and romantic
ower shop-turned-restaurant in Milan which is
run by the eccentric orist Raimondo Bianchi.
www.oraiobianchicaffe.it
Also refer to...

Shrimps: the bright faux-fur label created by
dynamo Hannah Weiland. www.shrimps.co.uk
The rum- and absinthe-spiked El Legado cocktail
at Gordon Ramsays new London House restaurant:
inhibitions evaporate. www.gordonramsay.com
STYLE FILE
STROKES OF GENIUS
Designed for the most worldly traveller, these watches

deliver more than just impeccable timekeeping, whatever the terrain, says Jessica Diamond
THRILLSEEKER
HIGHFLIER
Bremont is not averse to adding bits of vintage planes to its watches: the
P-51 was built using parts from a 1944 Mustang aircraft. Now, its playing with
the big boys, having announced a collaboration with Boeing that will give the
watchmaker access to almost 100 years of technical and creative know-how.
And the synergy is a good one, as both industries require strong, light, corrosionresistant materials. The Bremont Boeing Model 1 comes in either Custom 465
stainless steel, a double-vacuum-melted alloy developed for the aerospace
industry, or Boeing aviation-grade titanium. From 3,595; www.bremont.com
GLOBETROTTER
Imagine a time when
jewellery houses scoured the
globe for gemstones to
satisfy their most
demanding clients.
Pierre Arpels did this
for Van Cleef & Arpels
during the 1960s,
travelling between
India and Iran, acquiring
jewels for Persias Empress
Farah Pahlavi. The Pierre
Arpels Heure dici & Heure
dailleurs watch celebrates this
travel boom-time, with its hour
indicator for local time (dici) and
another for the second time zone
(dailleurs). Both are triggered by a
retrograde minute hand, and on
reaching 60 minutes, it snaps back to
zero with mesmerising precision.
26,900; www.vancleefarpels.com
PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY IMAGES; VIEW PICTURES
Diving watches are often brutish affairs that can look

clunky peeking out from a cuff, although exceptions such
as the Rolex Submariner have bridged the gap between
ocean and boardroom. Cartier has never produced a
proper diving watch (one that adheres to ISO 6425
standards of legibility, durability etc), until now. The stylish
Calibre de Cartier Diver is water-resistant to 300 metres,
with an 11mm-thick case only 1mm more than its
non-diving cousin. 5,700; www.cartier.com
STYLE FILE
How do Italian women approach
beauty differently from others?
They really take care of themselves.
In Milan its particularly exaggerated;
the style there is more elegant
and conservative than in Rome.
What inspires your look?

I love old black-and-white lms.
The leading ladies are naturally
beautiful. I grew up watching Gina
Lollobrigida and Sophia Loren, so
theyre my pin-ups. I denitely
prefer wrinkles to plastic.
Where in the world are

you happiest?
As long as Im with my family and
friends, I can be happy anywhere.
Whats your favourite spa?
How do you get your skin and

body ready for the beach?
With very little preparation. I dont go
to the gym every day, or particularly
watch what I eat. I feel I should be in
good shape but have never felt that
I had to be skinny. The beach is a
natural exfoliator, and I relish the
sensation of salt water on my skin.
PHOTOGRAPH: RICARDO TINELLI/H&K/JME PHOTO
Normalizing
Day Oil, 25,
Dr Hauschka
(www.dr
hauschka.com)
Chteau Monfort in
Milan is amazing and so
peaceful. The massages
are wonderful, as are the
facials. I go there to relax. It
makes me feel truly calm.
Classic Cream
lipstick, 25.50,
Dolce &
Gabbana at
Harrods (www.
harrods.com)
Beauty kit: Monica Bellucci on her travels

How do you look after your
hair in the sun?
Cleansing Oil
Shampoo, 32,
Shu Uemura
(www.feel
unique.com)
I usually cover my head to protect

myself from too much heat, and that
also shields my hair. After a day in the
sun, I use Shu Uemuras
cleansing shampoo. I
often work with my
friend, the stylist John
Nollet. He does my hair
brilliantly and can be
found at the Park Hyatt
Paris-Vendme.
Do you wear
perfume on holiday?
Regenerating
Serum, 54, Dr
Hauschka (www.
drhauschka.com)
At the moment, I am
really enjoying trying new
fragrances. I love light,
citrusy ones that are also
a bit oral.
What beauty
products do you
always travel with?
I take lipstick one nude
colour and a brighter shade
mascara and foundation.
Dolce & Gabbanas Classic
Cream lipsticks are
Lover nail polish,
so easy to apply.
18.50, Dolce
When I put lipstick
& Gabbana at
on, I immediately
Harrods (www.
feel well-groomed.
harrods.com)
Do you sunbathe?
I know that its not very good to tan but
I adore the sun. I spend my holidays in
Italy, where the beaches are breathtaking
and the ocean is crystal-blue. The islands
are fantastic: Capri and Sicily. I could just
sit for hours gazing out to sea.
Do you have a pre-ight ritual?

Drinking water is so important to keep skin
looking clear. Usually I apply moisturiser,
something simple and light such as Dr
Hauschka, and a serum. And I try not to
wear too much make-up; perhaps just a
little mascara. I also take perfume to
freshen up after travelling.
Do you have
a signature
nail colour for
summer?
I think red nails
are sensual and
passionate, so I go for
the gorgeous shade
Lover from Dolce &
Gabbana. And for
winter they have a
deep-chocolate one
called Dahlia.
Full Shimmer
Shampoo, 24;
Illuminating
Conditioner, 32;
Treatment mask,
39.50, all Shu
Uemura (www.
feelunique.com)
STYLE YOU CAN WEAR

ANYWHERE
WWW.KIKI.CO.UK
12 Symons Street, Sloane Square, London SW3 2TJ.
Tel:020 7730 3323
Email:info@kiki.co.uk
STYLE FILE
On the scene:Bulgari Hotel,Milan

The look: high-gloss metallics
ometimes Milan can be a bit dusty, but not here, not at the Bulgari. A
sweeping cobbled driveway brings you into the secret walled garden, lled
with towering trees and clipped lawns. Its incredibly quiet, with just the
sound of birdsong oating in the air. On a sunny day, there is no better
place for lunch than the terrace, sitting on charcoal-grey cushioned chairs,
offset against the lime-green grass, meticulously pruned laurels and
bursts of white wisteria. The Thirties-style stucco-fronted hotel
feels like the grand house of an old conte, smartly separate
from the goings-on in the centre of town. You could imagine
Don Fabrizio Corbera from The Leopard living here. Its a
discreet place, not excitable. During fashion weeks, when the
city is humming and heaving, everyone might party at the
Principe di Savoia but those looking for an escape from
the hubbub including most of the designers eat,
drink and sleep here. In the evenings, the crowd
gravitates towards the dark-marble oval bar for an
Aperol Spritz to wash down the giant green olives
and salty crisps. Guests, and the gatherings of
locals, may be doused in diamonds but its in that very
chic way whereby their ice is paired with Tods ats
and swathes of cashmere. THEA DARRICOTTE
www.bulgarihotels.com. Doubles from about 640
Mini Betty bag,

915, Hedi
Slimane (www.
ysl.com). Top,
200, DKNY at
Harrods (www.
harrods.com)
Becka leather
trousers, 1,515,
Isabel Marant
at www.neta-porter.com.
Santa Monica
Bashford duffel
bag, 695,
Tumi (www.
tumi.com)
PHOTOGRAPH: THE KOBAL COLLECTION
A look from Oscar

de la Renta S/S 14.
Bulgari Catene
watch, POR, Bulgari
(www.bulgari.com).
Iriza 100 pumps,
395, Christian
Louboutin at www.
net-a-porter.com
Prism bangle,
505, Pierre
Hardy (www.
pierrehardy.
com). Iridia
sunglasses,
349, Fendi
(+44 800 7234
5600). Sweater,
825, Stella
McCartney at
Harrods (www.
harrods.com)
David Salisbury luxury hardwood rooms are made to be living, wellused spaces. Meticulously engineered from sustainable wood, they are
the product of decades of exacting expertise and sympathetic design.
Whether its a place for you to dream, or to watch your family grow, its
there to be used. For years to come.
For more details phone 01278 764444 or go to www.davidsalisbury.com
WE LC O M E
TO YOUR AFRICAN SAFARI EXPERIENCE
ULUSABA, SOUTH AFRICA
MAHALI MZURI, KENYA
Get to know Africa with Virgin Limited Edition

Chase the ultimate thrill on safari and make yourself at home in one of Sir Richard Bransons stunning African retreats.
Get up close and personal with lions, leopards and much more at Ulusaba Private Game Reserve in South Africa,
or book a ringside seat to the Great Migration at Kenyas Mahali Mzuri. Discover the Virgin Limited Edition collection:
extraordinary luxury exclusive to you.
Reservations: 0800 716 919 | enquiries@virginlimitededition.com | www.virginlimitededition.com
PHOTOGRAPH: JK PLACE ROMA BY MATTHIEU SALVAING
THE
HOT LIST
2014
OUR PICK OF THE BEST NEW HOTELS IN THE WORLD

59
THE
HOT LIST
2014
BHUTAN
GANGTEY GOENPA LODGE, PHOBJIKHA VALLEY

It may be a long journey to this remote new hotel in the Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan, but you know youve
made the right decision from the second you arrive. The vast, double-height lobby-lounge has an entire wall
of glass with gripping views of the 17th-century Gangtey monastery, which appears to oat above a wide,
misty valley speckled with grazing yaks and ponies. Staff greet new guests with a song, a glass of mulled cider
and a shoulder massage, which is a great start in anyones book. The bedrooms are big, with wood-burning
stoves, underoor heating and a free-standing bathtub in a bay window for views of the monastery. Australian
architect Mary Lou Thomson has created a seriously smart take on the rustic vernacular, with plenty of
exposed stone, polished wood and local woven fabrics. Innovative touches such as inside/outside log res
make the private terraces usable year-round, and the kitchen uses organic ingredients to make slow-roast
pork belly or exotic Bhutanese dishes such as ema datshi, a chilli-and-yak-cheese stew with wild mushrooms.
The lodge makes a stellar addition to Bhutans burgeoning hotel scene, established with such sensitivity and
style by Taj, Aman and COMO. FLASH POINT The light, the staff, the celestial views: this is how it feels
to be on top of the world. +975 0234 0943; www.easternsafaris.com. Doubles from about 390
ZAMBIA
CHINZOMBO LODGE,
SOUTH LUANGWA
Zambias South Luangwa National Park is famous
for running the continents nest guided walking
safaris, the rst of which were set up by Norman
Carr in the 1950s. The safari company he started
is still known for its circuit of simple bush camps,
from which guests set off to track game on foot.
So the opening of this exceptionally smart lodge
late last year signalled the start of a new era.
Designed by the brilliant South African architects
Silvio Rech and Lesley Carstens (who created
North Island in the Seychelles), it sits on the
banks of the Luangwa River beneath a canopy of
ancient trees. The lodge is very beautiful and
comfortable, made in South Africa and assembled
at-pack-style in Zambia. The whole lot can be
taken down and recycled without leaving a trace.
The six tented suites are raised on platforms
made from reconstituted timber, the beds cooled
by an eco-friendly air-conditioning system. In
the central mess tent there are carefully chosen
books, cutlery and glasses, and big sofas covered
in loose, natural fabrics. The dining area and bar
is hung with framed photographs of Carr and
smiling staff members, past and present. Banded
mongooses scurry around, raiding red-ant mounds,
and baboons saunter between the tents; in the
evenings, elephants and giraffes come down
to drink at the waters edge, and at night hippos
lumber onto the river bank to feed on the sweet
grass. It is a very comfortable spot to just be.
FLASH POINT Two of the best guides in Zambia,
Abraham Banda and Shadreck Nkhoma, work at
Chinzombo. +260 216 246025; www.normancarr
safaris.com. Suites from about 415 per person
sharing, including all meals, drinks and activities
AUSTRALIA
PHOTOGRAPH: PHILIP LEE HARVEY
HOTEL HOTEL, CANBERRA

In a city that thrives on order, this 68-room hotel has a lot of swagger.
Occupying three oors of the Japanese-inspired Nishi Building in the
cultural zone of NewActon, it is laser-focused on Canberras young-gun
political advisers, minders and persuaders. The bedrooms are similarly
congured but individually styled: theres a huge multicoloured wool
tapestry in one; some have wallpapered ceilings and clay walls. Dozens of
dusty suitcases (found by the owners in Mumbai) are stacked up against
one wall in the bar, lit by a vintage chandelier from a 1930s Italian railway
station. Youll nd those hipsters with their brieng notes sitting at angular
tables arranged like a jigsaw puzzle in the restaurant, where superstar chef
Sean McConnell has been signed up to produce his signature shared plates.
Or try A Baker for smoked duck breast, Jerusalem artichoke, maple, carrot
and orange pure with summer beans and a local Nick OLeary Shiraz (the
emphasis is very much on regional produce). There are racks of design
books, timber and concrete space dividers, and a multitude of surfaces
on which to prop a nectarine Bellini and a plate of culatello. If you ask the
concierge, hell send you out on a specially commissioned Goodspeed bike
with an excellent map of local hotspots. FLASH POINT Who would
have thought strait-laced Canberra would ever get this hip? +61 2 6287
6287; www.hotel-hotel.com.au. Doubles from about 155
61
INDIA
JAWAI LEOPARD CAMP,

RAJASTHAN
This sophisticated, eight-tent camp is set in
the Aravalli Hills, a comfortable three-hour
drive from either Udaipur or Jodhpur. A stay
here means avoiding both the crowds and
the cumbersome regulations of Indias wildlife
reserves, while also getting a front-row seat
on a fast disappearing way of life. In Jawai,
white-bearded temple priests and red-turbaned
Rabari herdsman live as their ancestors did
for centuries, sharing their rocky surroundings
with the wildlife. Leopards are regarded as
sacred guardians of the ancient temples that
dot the landscape; it is estimated that 3050
live in the Jawai area. There are also Nilgai
antelopes, crocodiles, Langur monkeys, wild
boar and more than 100 bird species (including
amingos at the Jawai Dam), and the guides
are knowledgeable and passionate. In the tented
suites, local stone has been combined with smart
stainless steel, leather and dramatic black-andwhite wildlife photographs, and there are proper
bathrooms with powerful hot showers. The
camps garden supplies fresh organic produce
for robust Indian feasts served after cocktails
in the evening. FLASH POINT There are now
quite a few sophisticated safari lodges and
camps in India, but none comes close to Jawai
for extraordinary wildlife encounters. +91 11
4617 2700; www.sujanluxury.com/jawaileopardcamp. Doubles from 385 including all meals and
twice-daily game drives. Open September to June
BRAZIL
BUTTERFLY HOUSE, BAHIA

A jungle retreat tucked between coconut palms and freshwater lagoons on Brazils
Mara peninsula, this deliciously laid-back hotel may be an effort to get to, but
boy, is it worth it. There are ve bamboo bungalows on stilts, with private porches
and grass roofs, and a further three sea-view suites in the main house. Owner Chloe
Gibbs raided a Casablancan riad for beautiful tiles, and silk throws are sourced
from the Atlas Mountains. Service is reassuringly slick. Tired of snoozing by the
pool, strolling the beach or swinging in hammocks? The staff will organise yoga
sessions, jungle quad-biking, surf lessons and boat cruises to waterfalls. The
abundance of fresh lobster means you may eat nothing else, and so complete is
the solitude, its easy to forget that down the coast lies the hip hotspot of Barra
Grande, a hangout for beautiful Brazilians and chic Notting Hill-billies tired
of the show-and-tell of Trancoso and on the hunt for pure, unadulterated fun.
Add live music in sandy squares and daytime discos that spring out of virgin
rainforest, and you may just be in nirvana. FLASH POINT Mara is still under
the radar, so you have a good few more years before everyone else catches on.
+55 7332 584113; www.butteryhousebahia.com. Doubles from about 95
62
MEXICO
THE
HOT LIST
2014
HOTEL ESCONDIDO, PUERTO ESCONDIDO

Laid-back Puerto Escondido on Mexicos southern Pacic coast has long
been a draw for surfers. With legendary breaks like the Mexican Pipeline
as the main attraction, hotels were an afterthought. The arrival of Hotel
Escondido on an untamed stretch of beach has changed that. Grupo
Habita, known for its hotels in Mexico City, has created a surfer-inspired
retreat that merges beachy freedom with comforts such as private plunge
pools and in-room spa treatments. The 16 palapa-thatched bungalows
are connected by pathways snaking through rock gardens, the unexpected
shapes of organ-pipe cactus, spiky agave and velvety petals serving as
sculpture. Each bungalow is positioned to catch evening breezes from
the Sierra Madre del Sur mountains. The seclusion attracts a mix of TV
stars, models and artists such as painter Bosco Sodi, whose nearby studio
was designed by Tadao Ando. You can go horse-riding, help release baby
sea turtles into the ocean or swim in a phosphorescent lagoon. The everevolving menu includes quesadillas fragrant with wild epazote, and yogurt
topped with Hotel Escondidos own honey. At the bar, the drink of choice
is mezcal: try a smoky Alacrn. FLASH POINT Your immersion into
Oaxacan culture begins at check-in with a shot of tequila. +52 954 582
2224; www.hotelescondido.com. Doubles from about 215
FRANCE
INTERCONTINENTAL HOTEL DIEU, MARSEILLE

Marseilles year as European Capital of Culture may be over, but theres still plenty of
celebrating going on at this sprawling, 194-room palace with vaulted ceilings, fantastic
views and the buzziest terrace bar in town. Set back on a hill overlooking the Vieux Port
smack in the middle of a once cut-throat now ultra-hip neighbourhood this former
hospital has been utterly transformed by Jean-Philippe Nuel with a contemporary look of
clean lines in soft grey, taupe and white. The suites have glass-wall bathrooms and big,
arcaded private terraces for an evening pastis while soaking up views of the port and
hilltop Notre-Dame de la Garde Basilica in the distance. Theres a vast Clarins spa and a
heated indoor pool. The wildly creative chef Lionel Lvy heads up both restaurants: Les
Fentres, a slick brasserie with oor-to-ceiling windows; and the more formal Alcyone,
packed with smart locals who love the bouillabaisse milkshake, lobster with pistachio
and guacamole, and mouthwatering Snickers-inspired pudding. FLASH POINT The
spas signature Provence massage with lavender-infused oils is worth checking in for.
+ 33 4 13 42 42 42; www.intercontinental.com/marseille. Doubles from about 165
UAE
PHOTOGRAPH: ERIC CUVILLIER
THE OBEROI, DUBAI

Youre in Dubai, so everythings a superlative: the tallest buildings in the
world, the biggest malls, the sunniest beaches, the nest food. And The
Oberoi is slap-bang in the middle of it all, making it a handy base when
youre exhausted from all that shopping and sunbathing. This is a 252-room
glass juggernaut of a hotel with whopping rooms, oor-to-ceiling windows so
you can gaze at the shiny skyscrapers, baths you could do lengths in and beds
so gigantic they could t your whole family. Rid yourself of jet lag with a
massage at the 24-hour Ayurvedic spa, take one of the daily 6pm yoga classes
or lie by the innity pool where youll be presented with cubes of frozen
watermelon and Evian face mist. There are Western, Indian and Arabic
restaurants, but you can try all three at the hotels Friday brunch, where theres
a dedicated Mojito station and help-yourself tapas such as kingsh ceviche,
wagyu short ribs and quail-egg bruschetta. Its all very grand, but somehow
it manages to feel delightfully low-key, too. FLASH POINT That famous
Oberoi service, personal but professional, keeps everything ticking over
expertly. +971 444 41333; www.oberoihotels.com. Doubles from about 150
THE
HOT LIST
2014
CAMBODIA
SALA LODGES, SIEM REAP

It took more than two years to nd 11 disused and authentic Khmer houses
in local villages before transporting each one back to this unblemished plot on
the edge of Siem Reap and refurbishing them. The results are spectacular: the
weathered, stilted villas (dating from 1956 to the 1980s) look like they have
always been here, surrounded by orchids and shady trees, a green sanctuary
in a town that can feel maddeningly busy and dusty. The French and Swiss
owners clearly have an eye for hospitality that goes beyond the architectural:
all the staff, from the general manager to the cleaners, are impossibly kind
and helpful; the food, a mix of Khmer classics including sh amok and hotel
staples such as a club sandwich, is served in a sleek space with blackboard
menus and polished-concrete oors. Outings and day trips highlight local
culture as much as the temples of Angkor Wat, with bikes to explore the
uorescent-green paddy-elds and nearby villages, and tuk-tuk rides through
town. If theres one quibble, its with the mosquitoes attracted by the canals
in the grounds, and some light sleepers might consider the barking dogs and
crowing cockerels a nuisance. But most will nd it all charmingly authentic,
especially considering the price. FLASH POINT The villas have just the
right amount of added luxury, with big rain showers and king-size beds.
+855 63 766699; www.salalodges.com. Doubles from about 115
SWITZERLAND
THE CHEDI, ANDERMATT

Nothing seemed to have changed in Andermatt since the 1950s until this bold European
debut from the Singapore-based hotel group GHM. The spa, on three levels and with a
35-metre pool and fabulous hydrotherapy zone, is indicative of the sheer extravagance
of space here, including the bedrooms, each of which has its own replace. Architect
Jean-Michel Gathy has introduced Asian elements: screens, subtle lighting, symmetry
and pools (some destined to become ice-rinks next winter). He has worked a similar riff
at Aman Sveti Stefan in Montenegro and the Aman Canal Grande Venice, both great
successes. The main restaurant here is divided into sociable areas beneath a coffered
wood ceiling, and the menu highlights Western (smoked-salmon cannelloni) and
Eastern (chilli tiger prawns) dishes; the little Japanese restaurant has a sushi and sashimi
bar. There arent that many ski runs here yet, but the hotel is open all year. Egyptian
owner Samih Sawiris is pumping 1.2 billion into the redevelopment of Andermatt, with
plans for another ve hotels, apartments and villas. The new golf course was already
playable last summer. FLASH POINT The year-round destination hotel Switzerland
has always needed. +41 41 888 7488; www.ghmhotels.com. Doubles from 440
USA
Thompson Chicago is all about kicking back and feeling right at home.
The hotel, which opened last October in a smart residential area, manages
to combine striking architecture (exposed-brick walls, wooden beams
and a contemporary central staircase) with the slightly edgy style of
British designer Tara Bernerd. As with her work at London Belgraves hotel,
Bernerds use of plush fabrics and textiles (velvet, cowhide, annel, tweed)
creates an understated, elegant style thats both cosy and handsome. She
has paid homage to one of the citys most beloved architects, Frank Lloyd
Wright, using examples of his geometric tiles in the lobby. Bernerd has
created a relaxed, informal style in the bedrooms with bespoke furniture
and carefully chosen art, such as Flying Death by Wes Lang, inspired by
rocknroll bike culture; and there are amazing views of Lake Michigan or the
Chicago skyline through oor-to-ceiling windows. The Italian restaurant,
Nico Osteria, serving rustic rigatoni and big-eye tuna, has been booked
solid with excited foodies since opening day. FLASH POINT Ask for one
of the Lakeview rooms, where you can take in the vista from your bathtub.
+1 312 266 2100; www.thompsonchicago.com. Doubles from about 170
64
PHOTOGRAPHS: MATTHEW BUCK; RETO GUNTLI
THOMPSON HOTEL, CHICAGO
UK
THE LONDON EDITION

It might be unfair to call the Edition
a restaurant with rooms, but you
cant get away from the fact that
Berners Tavern chef Jason
Athertons latest opening is the
beating heart of the hotel. Along
with the lobby cocktail bar, oakpanelled, reservation-only Punch
Room and nightclub Basement, it
has become Londons buzziest new
gathering place. Ian Schragers
considered, gimmick-free design
has given the original stucco
ceilings, marble columns and
stained-glass windows of the old
Berners Hotel lobby a funky edge,
with emerald-green velvet sofas,
antique billiard table (with queues
to play), MacBooks lined up on a
vast leather-topped desk and a
blackened steel bar serving teethwhistlingly good Elderower Power
Sours late into the night. Up the
marble stairs, away from the thrum,
bedrooms are Bond-slick, a Sixties
reimagining of pale oak oorboards,
walnut panelling and Schragers
signature oor-to-ceiling white
muslin drapes. They are also
spectacularly quiet. Buttoned-linen
George Smith sofas sit alongside
Scandinavian wishbone chairs,
the minibar is stuffed with Amelia
Rope chocolate and Crystal
Head Vodka, and theres a single
hydrangea stem in a jar on the
bedside table. In other words, a
perfect foil to the hubbub below.
FLASH POINT Design-wise, the
Edition steals it: grown-up, deeply
comfortable and curiously cool.
+44 20 7781 0000; www.editionhotels.marriott.com/london.
Doubles from 295
THE
HOT LIST
2014
INDIA
VANA, MALSI ESTATE, UTTARAKHAND

Indias newest and biggest wellness retreat takes it name from the Sanskrit
term van, meaning forest, as its hidden in ancient Himalayan woodlands
surrounding the city of Dehradun, 240km north of Delhi. The modern
90-room property, designed by Spanish architectural rm Esteva i Esteva,
is on a 21-acre estate of mango and lychee orchards, and many rooms
have uninterrupted views of the forest. Vana has 55 treatment suites,
a great many pools, yoga studios and pavilions, a gym and tennis courts.
There are more than 150 therapies to choose from, all drawn from
traditional Indian, Tibetan and Chinese medicine. Delicious specialist
menus are created from fresh organic produce, much of it grown in the
kitchen gardens. The bedrooms are simple, with works by in-house artist
Siraj Saxena; suites have private meditation rooms with paintings by
Tibetan monks. The hushed soundscape is enhanced by the haunting
music of Bhatti, the hotels autist, who also offers sound-vibration
healing sessions. FLASH POINT This is one of the most talked-about
spa openings of the year and it is exceeding expectations. +91 135
391 1114; www.vanaretreats.com. Doubles from about 455 per night,
including transfers, all meals, group wellness activities and a 75-minute
individual treatment per day. Minimum stay three nights
COSTA RICA
ANDAZ PENINSULA PAPAGAYO

For the past 10 years, the Four Seasons has been the Papagayo Peninsulas only
place worth staying at, but now Andaz Hyatts younger-sister brand has totally
upped the ante. Both hotels were designed by the Costa Rican architect Ronald
Zurcher, but the Andaz feels fresher and funkier. Staff in turquoise chinos look like
theyve stepped out of a Gap campaign. Theres a purple Volkswagen van to take
you to the marina or golf course. The hotel is a mix of whelk-shaped public spaces
and seven low blocks camouaged into the hillside and prettied up with bamboocovered walkways. Bedrooms feature lots of natural materials: laurel desks and
wardrobes; driftwood panels above the bed; and a pebble-oored shower opening
straight onto the balcony. Spend days paddle-boarding, kayaking, lazing by the
pool and having spa treatments. At night, head to Chao Pescao, the hippest of
the three restaurants, for tuna ceviche, yucca chips and expert bartender Clarks
Cocomacaco cocktail of rum, pineapple and coconut milk. FLASH POINT Classy
and cool, this is a real game-changer for the Guanacaste coast. +506 2690 1234;
www.papagayo.andaz.hyatt.com. Doubles from about 300
FRANCE
LA MAISON DUZES, UZES

Although La Maison dUzs is new, the building certainly isnt. This 17th-century house has been
a private home, a post office and the dormitory for a girls school. There is still a school next door,
and during the week the hotel is reluctant to let out the rooms facing that way, lest the high-pitched
hubbub of the playground disturb a guests quietude. That may be taking things a step too far
its a nice noise, after all but it is also indicative of the deeply thoughtful service. There are just
eight rooms, each one different. All come with an iPad-operated sound system: scroll around to
some local oldie station, and soak up a bit of plangent Piaf while you shower. Then go down for a
glorious breakfast: piping-hot coffee, dainty pastries, a lovely starsh arrangement of blood-orange
and pink-grapefruit segments with a single raspberry placed in the centre. After breakast you could
spend a day bumbling round the narrow cat-creeps of medieval Uzs, or head off to Avignon, Arles
or Nmes. Those better-known towns are all within easy driving distance; Marseille and the sea
are only an hour away. But come back to the hotels courtyard to enjoy an apro in the buttery light
of a French evening, and maybe have dinner in the hotels fabulous restaurant, La Table dUzs.
The amuse-bouche of a tiny foie gras macaroon is only the start of it. FLASH POINT A stylish
new hotel serving stunning food in a beautiful and largely undiscovered corner of France? Bliss.
+33 4 66 20 07 00; www.lamaisonduzes.fr. Doubles from about 180
66
VIETNAM
AMANOI, VINH HY BAY

Amanresorts rst hotel in Vietnam
is totally off-grid, a two-hour drive
south of Nha Trang. The winding
coastal road to get here is beautiful
and deserted except for the odd
cow, or a bride posing for pictures
in a canary-yellow dress. Forested
mountains are barely interrupted by
the smattering of villas designed by
Jean-Michel Gathy, with low oak
beds and vast bathrooms, private
innity pools and red paper lanterns
hanging outside sliding doors. Take
a buggy down to the beach club
and breakfast at smart round tables
covered in putty-coloured cloths.
The view is a sweep of sand and sea;
the food is fresh fruit, homemade
mango jam and a bakery basket
of goodies still warm from the oven
(pastry chef Arnaud previously
worked at the two-Michelin-starred
restaurant Taillevent in Paris). Play
tennis, sail a Hobie Cat or spend time
at the spa: its a revelation. The yoga
pavilion sits on a lotus-ower-lled
lake and there are daybeds on wooden
platforms hidden among the trees,
where you can sip post-treatment
ginger-and-lemongrass tea. At night,
tuck into seafood rice pancakes in the
Central Pavilion as lights from the
squid-shing boat out at sea pierce the
ink-black sky. FLASH POINT Miles
from the east coasts other hotel
heavyweights, this is uncharted territory
where you can zone out in style.
+84 68 377 0777; www.amanresorts.
com. Pavilions from about 540
ITALY
PHOTOGRAPH: CHRISTOPHER WISE
LA BANDITA TOWNHOUSE, TUSCANY

New York-raised hotelier John Voigtmann has good instincts. When he came across
an abandoned farmhouse in Tuscanys Val dOrcia in 2001, he realised it offered a far
better chance of fullment than his job as a record-company executive. Six years later,
that farmhouse opened as La Bandita, a stylish, eight-bedroom retreat, and it proved
hugely popular. Soon Voigtmann was scouting for another property, and he found it
in the nearby town of Pienza, in the form of an ancient convent. Opened last spring,
La Bandita Townhouse takes its cue from another bright idea: that the experience of
waking up in a small Tuscan town and tuning into its laid-back rhythms is poorly catered
for unless you rent an apartment. Thats xed here: the sounds of chatting neighbours
and church bells lter gently into the 12 light-lled bedrooms, their contemporary
furnishings contrasting with robust ceiling beams and exposed stone walls. Staying
here is like joining a house party; come aperitivo time, youre likely to nd yourself
swapping advice about things to see, do and drink in the area with Voigtmann and
his other guests. In the Townhouse Caff, Glaswegian chef David Mangan puts local
ingredients to good use in dishes such as hand-cut tagliatelle with lemon rocket pesto.
FLASH POINT You know those cool friends of yours? They just bought a house
in Pienza. +39 0578 749005; www.la-bandita.com. Doubles from about 160
THE
HOT LIST
2014
SWITZERLAND
LE GRAND BELLEVUE, GSTAAD

This used to be one of Gstaads famously grand, formal hotels and the best
located, in its own park in the centre of town until old Etonian Daniel Koetser
and his interior-designer wife Davia bought and transformed it. Now it feels more
like a luxury country-house hotel than a turreted, turn-of-the-century Swiss pile,
with big reception rooms that manage to be both stylish, with bespoke furniture
by George Smith and Soane, and eclectic theres a life-size tweed camel in the
lobby. And whats on offer is second to none: for families (kids club, playroom,
private cinema); for skiing (on-site ski hire, complimentary lift transfers, personal
guides); and for wellbeing (an amazing subterranean spa with Bamford and
Cellcosmet treatments, a huge pool, a gym and eight different steam rooms, from
traditional hammam to Himalayan salt room). Even the hairdresser is a Swiss
celebrity. Bedrooms are calmly decorated, with the best beds, TV and audio gear
and in-room iPads. As for food, choose from a sushi bar, a cosy chalet serving
fondue, and Leonards, the Michelin-starred restaurant. With its zinc-topped
circular bar and wonderfully comfortable, specially designed chairs and banquettes,
the dining room is fashionably laid-back, with food to match: pitch-perfect
sharing plates, risotto, Wiener schnitzel and bouillabaisse. FLASH POINT The
exclusive Gstaad Yacht Club is here, too, so great people-watching is guaranteed.
+41 33 748 0000; www.bellevue-gstaad.ch. Doubles from about 230
CHILE
AWASI PATAGONIA
In the adventurers playground of Chilean Patagonia, intimate, eco-conscious
newcomer Awasi shines brighter than the gleaming Lago Sarmiento it
overlooks. Rather than being conned within the Torres del Paine National
Park, Awasi stands on a ridge above 6,000 hectares of private reserve, giving
a sense of space and solitude usually only afforded to the local gauchos.
And make like a gaucho you will: the 12 secluded villas by architect Felipe
Assadi are modelled on the cattle-herders cabins, beer-blond log houses
with corrugated roofs that gleam like silver sh in the forest. Inside, its all
grandpa armchairs and log res, with king-sized beds centered so you can
watch the dramatic landscape from your pillow. How to tackle the immensity
of the natural surroundings? In total freedom: Awasi assigns each villa a
private guide and four-wheel-drive on call 24/7. Gallop across the steppes,
stargaze in secluded canyons, track the puma, then cosy up for cocktails
in the main lodge, where you can feast on king crab and Austral hake.
FLASH POINT For the chance to explore Patagonia on your own terms,
Awasi is priceless. +56 222 339641; www.awasi.com. Villas from about 1,260
per person for a three-night stay, including all meals, excursions and transfers
West 8th Street between Fifth and Sixth Avenues still shows signs of the gritty insolence thats been
knocked out of the rest of Manhattan. Which is something that evidently appealed to the groovecutting hotelier and restaurateur Sean MacPherson whos converted an old students dorm into
this Twitter-trending place to stay. There are 107 bedrooms in the narrow seven-storey building, all
tiny (save the two penthouse suites) and gizmo-free, other than a basic phone and bog-standard TV.
But my, they are pretty. MacPherson was inspired by traditional Parisian guesthouses, and he clearly
has an eye for cake-icing mouldings, gold sconces and bevelled mirrors; the bathrooms are blackand-white-tiled studies in vintage glamour. The ground-oor lobby is low-lit, wood-panelled, warmed
by an enormous re in winter and well-padded with sofas and leather chairs; theres a retro espresso
bar and plenty of art books on the shelves. At night the cocktail bar, around the corner from the main
entrance, is busy with neighbourhood hipsters and out-of-towners ordering Double Rye Manhattans
and Bohemian Sidecars at double-gure prices while waiting to slide into a booth at Margaux, the
bistro, and order grilled lamb chops or buckwheat rigatoni. FLASH POINT If youre after pint-sized
style on a budget, this is the place. +1 212 321 0100; www.marltonhotel.com. Doubles from about 150
68
PHOTOGRAPHS: ROBERTO FRANKENBERG; ALICE GAO
USA
THE MARLTON, NEW YORK
FRANCE
LAPOGEE,
COURCHEVEL 1850
This new ski lodge from the
Oetker Collection (Le Bristol in
Paris, Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc
in Cap dAntibes) serves as the
antidote to bling in the oligarchs
favourite winter playground.
Instead of convoluted cuisine (the
village already has seven Michelinstarred restaurants), Le Comptoir
restaurant serves hearty slow
cooking, and even the Champagne
bar feels relaxed. The interiors are
warm and timbered, with log res
and an understated Sisley spa. At
a total cost of about 80 million,
creating this sort of discreet luxury
didnt come cheap, and the room
rates are certainly punchy. But
then there are 170 staff to serve
just 53 guest rooms and suites
and a private chalet next door.
The ski-in/ski-out location in
Le Jardin Alpin is sublime, and
the hotel pool is surely one of the
loveliest in the Alps. The rooms,
decorated in muted colours, are
cocoons of comfort after the
rigours of Courchevels 150km of
ski runs. FLASH POINT Discreet
and smooth as honey, LApoge
has saved Courchevel 1850 from
becoming a terrible show-off.
+33 4 79 04 01 04; www.lapogee
courchevel.com. Doubles from
about 740 half board
THE
HOT LIST
2014
INDONESIA
REGENT BALI
This swanky new Regent has given the Sanur region some much-needed
va-va-voom. Charlie Chaplin, Nol Coward, Greta Garbo and Elizabeth
Taylor used to hang out here back when there were no roads or pylons and
ladies still bathed topless. But it had got stuck in a time warp, with nowhere
really decent to stay until now. The over-scaled Regent is immediately
impressive, with skyscraper-high ceilings in the lobby and an enormous
courtyard dominated by a water feature with a temple on top. The spa is
as peaceful as a starry night, and the treatments are delivered with the kind
of tenderness and charm only found on Bali. Interiors are uncluttered and
serene, mixing batiks, rattan and marble with a contemporary eye, and the
bedrooms are huge, with lattice-screened balconies the same size. In the
morning, the sound of traditional Balinese music calls you to breakfast at
Layang Layang restaurant (terric smoothies, fresh pastries, feather-light
omelettes), where lunch and dinner are also served, from an intriguing
menu that includes classic Indonesian sop buntut (oxtail soup) and be celeng
mebese manis (braised pork in sweet soy sauce). FLASH POINT The
super-stylish Regent has upped the stakes in Sanur: other hotels take note!
+62 361 301 1888; www.regenthotels.com. Doubles from about 260
URUGUAY
SOFITEL MONTEVIDEO CASINO CARRASCO & SPA

This smart reopening on the Ro de la Plata has given Uruguays hotel scene a major boost.
The hotel originally opened in 1921 to entice moneyed holidaymakers and gamblers to
Carrasco, outside Montevideo, where wealthy Uruguayans were building grand holiday
homes. But when the money moved to Punta del Este, the old Hotel Carrasco suddenly
looked dated, and was nally shuttered for 10 years. Sotel is only the second global
ve-star brand to move into Uruguay (theres a Four Seasons in Carmelo), and its a clever
idea. Close to Montevideos free-trade zone and only 10 minutes drive from the new
international airport, this is by far the best hotel in town. The restoration of the building
cost 45 million and involved master plasterers from Havana and architects from Argentina.
With layers of paint removed, stained glass revived and 22-carat gold applied, the vast,
marble-oored ground oor is their greatest achievement. Upstairs, there are 93 quietly
glamorous bedrooms, and 23 suites where guests are assigned top-dollar butlers. The food
is very good, making the most of local ingredients such as famously tender, grass-fed beef.
FLASH POINT Theres a new-found condence in Uruguay, and this superb hotel is its
nest ambassador. +598 260 46060; www.sotel.com. Doubles from about 230
USA
Youve probably never thought about staying in LAs Koreatown, but the
Sydell Group the team behind the Ace Hotels in New York and Palm
Springs and the Freehand in Miami have given you a shiny new reason
to do so. A homage to the vibrant, resilient neighbourhood that re-emerged
from the gang-war and race-riot res of the 1990s, this 388-room hotel
is a restoration of a 12-storey, mid-century modernist tower designed by
Daniel Mann Johnson & Mendenhall. Working with street-food king Roy
Choi, who is soon to open two restaurants on the premises, the hotel sets
out to celebrate the 24-hour energy of the area, home to LAs densest
concentration of late-night hangouts. A buzzing lobby bar is overseen by
nightlife impresarios the Houston brothers, and a newsstand and boutique,
Poketo, is curated by designers Angie Myung and Ted Vadakan. The rooms
above are a soothing antithesis to the din, with cushy platform beds, views
of the Hollywood Hills, and bathrooms reminiscent of the best Korean spas.
FLASH POINT This is shaping up to be the ultimate perch for night owls.
+1 213 381 7411; www.thelinehotel.com. Doubles from about 155
70
PHOTOGRAPHS: BETTINA LEWIN; BAGUS TRI LAKSONO
THE LINE HOTEL, LOS ANGELES
CANADA
FOGO ISLAND INN,

NEWFOUNDLAND
This place redenes getting away from it all.
On an island off the coast of Newfoundland, at
the furthest eastern reach of Canada, accessible
only by ferry or tiny prop plane, the inn stands
on stilts at the very edge of the roiling Atlantic.
It makes no attempt to blend in: this is bold
modern architecture, a long, cross-shaped building
four storeys tall. And yet, with its driftwoodwhite walls, minimalist interiors, and furniture
and textiles made by local craftspeople, it also
seems perfectly in keeping. It can go toe-to-toe
with any world-class, ve-star hotel: big rooms,
dreamy beds, hot tubs on the roof, superb
food made using seasonal ingredients. But the
island and the restless ocean are the real stars,
showcased through oor-to-ceiling windows,
particularly stunning in the dining room with
its double-height ceiling. Founded by Zita Cobb,
an islander who made millions in bre-optics,
the inn is run by a charitable foundation that
feeds prots back into the community. You are
encouraged to join a guide and explore the island:
pick berries in autumn, discover herds of caribou
or the packs of icebergs that drift past in spring, go
shing or visit the artist-in-residence programmes
in similarly striking architect-designed buildings.
This is a place to reconnect with the world; a stay
here is transformative. FLASH POINT This has
to be the most audacious hotel opening Canada
has ever seen. +1 855 268 9277; www.fogoisland
inn.ca. Doubles from about 300 full board
FRANCE
HOTEL PRINCE DE GALLES, PARIS

After two years restoration, the Prince de Galles (named after the Prince of Wales,
later Edward VIII) has rediscovered its Art Deco heart. It may have all the staff
you could possibly need, but theres also a languid elegance here that makes any
stay feel like a 1930s house party. All-day lounge bar Les Heures the setting for
breakfast, tea and cocktails has the original pink-glass sconces modelled on the
Prince of Wales feathers, and a restored mosaic oor. Vast windows open onto a
central courtyard with soaring palm trees. The 159 suites and bedrooms, designed
by the master of period cossetting, Pierre-Yves Rochon, are like mini apartments,
with splendidly crafted striped macassar ebony, revisited Ruhlmann designs and
period motifs. Some have terraces; a few have dressing rooms and rotunda hallways.
A sure sign that the Prince de Galles is back in the Parisian psyche is the restaurant,
La Scne, a slinky design by Starck acolyte Bruno Borrione that takes the stuffiness
out of haute cuisine. And its scne as in stage: the white marble tables and open
kitchen serve as a theatre for chef Stphanie Le Quellecs delicate creations, such
as langoustine with green tea and herb sorbets. FLASH POINT The hotel has made
its comeback with assured elegance, and the restaurant is already a hot destination.
+33 1 53 23 77 77; www.princedegallesparis.com. Doubles from about 550
THE
HOT LIST
2014
RUSSIA
FOUR SEASONS HOTEL LION PALACE ST PETERSBURG

Until Four Seasons moved in, the Lion Palace Hotel was known more modestly
as the house with lions. Not that it is modest at all. A huge triangular mansion
with yellow faades and gleaming white columns, it looks like an enormous slice
of neoclassical lemon meringue pie. The lions are two statues that have stood
at the grand entrance since the house was built in 1820; they are known to
all Russians because they gure in Pushkins great poem The Bronze Horseman.
Four Seasons has done everything possible to showcase this piece of literary and
architectural history with an utterly sumptuous reinvention of 19th-century
opulence. The Lobanov Presidential Suite even has a heated balcony so you
can go out in your slippers in winter and admire the golden dome of St Isaacs
Cathedral and the aquamarine frontage of the Winter Palace. But you could just
as happily stay indoors and enjoy the foodie comforts: the Tea Lounge with its
glass roof; the Xander Bar where you can sip a vodka cocktail and sample a few
zakuski (the nibbles with which Russians like to take their drink); the pan-Asian
Sintoho restaurant; or the Percorso, where chef Andrea Accordi (whose Prague
restaurant won Eastern Europes rst Michelin star) serves spit-roasted duck with
cherry and pink-pepper compote. FLASH POINT The Palace harks back to
a kind of tsarist splendour thats as unreal and seductive as St Petersburg itself.
+7 812 339 8000; www.fourseasons.com/stpetersburg. Doubles from about 175
CHINA
MANDARIN ORIENTAL PUDONG, SHANGHAI

If you want to hang out in the latest hotspot for Shanghais smart set, then
the gold-trimmed Riviera Lounge at the new Mandarin Oriental hotel
is a good place to start. At the weekend afternoon tea, fashionable young
things sip Longjing with delicate pastries. Joining them for dessert is a good
way to experience New China chic in motion. Also causing a real buzz around
town is the hotels Yong Yi Ting restaurant, where emerging star Tony Lu is
busy reworking regional cuisine with dishes such as shredded Shanghainese
salted chicken with jellysh, and chilled drunken fresh abalone with fox nut.
Over at Fifty 8 Grill, the menu by chef Richard Ekkebus includes wood-red
steaks, and sea bass with Bordelaise sauce and bone marrow. The Mandarin
Oriental group is famous for its spas and here there are 13 private spa suites
for Shanghais elite. Overlooking the Huangpu River, amid the sky-puncturing
architectural tapestry of the Pudong nancial district, the hotel is close to plenty
of glitzy malls and the Shanghai Tower, the worlds second-tallest building.
FLASH POINT A front-row view of the non-stop Shanghai show. +86 21
2082 9888; www.mandarinoriental.com/shanghai. Doubles from about 240
MALDIVES
Eight years on from the Maison Cheval Blanc in Courchevel, the second
property from the LVMH group opened late last year. It was ve years in
the making, and it shows. The resort is entrancing, the nish impeccable.
Its key colours of taupe and white blend beautifully with the natural
tones of granite, stone and wood, cheered by sudden pops of lemon
yellow. Look up in your immense villa (designed by Jean-Michel Gathy,
who is having a massive year) and youll notice that the rattan roof is
exquisitely woven. In the bathroom, the magnifying mirror by Aliseo
is the most powerful on the market. But its the service as much as
the design that will make you smile, from breakfast (a perfect buffet
of delights) to dinner at Le 1947 (a sumptuous tasting menu) and
treatments in the Guerlain spa (Indian head massages, facials, shiatsu).
Theres no more romantic way to travel than by seaplane, and the
hotel has its own, bobbing at the quayside. FLASH POINT Cheval
Blanc has set a new global standard; Amans crown is no longer secure.
+960 656 1515; www.chevalblanc.com. Doubles from about 920
72
PHOTOGRAPHS: DAVID CROOKES; STEPHAN GLADIEU/

FIGAROPHOTO/CAMERA PRESS
CHEVAL BLANC RANDHELI
KENYA
SEGERA RETREAT, LAIKIPIA

There is no shortage of beautiful safari lodges on the Laikipia plateau, including the rhino sanctuary of Lewa
Wildlife Conservancy and art-lled Ol Jogi. But there is nothing like Segera Retreat, a contemporary collection
of thatched wooden villas at the heart of a 50,000-acre property, with Mount Kenya rising in the distance. The
retreat, as its name implies, isnt a camp but a wilderness escape, with inspired gardens a jigsaw of weird cacti,
waterfalls of bougainvillaea, sinuous salt pools and beds of exotic owers surrounding six two-storey villas, plus
the larger Villa Segera and stone-clad Segera House. Each is different: one has a big outdoor bath carved from
a single rock; another features photographs by Michael Poliza. Segeras owner, Jochen Zeitz, is also crazy about
African art and its everywhere: contemporary sculptures standing beside pools, installations in the converted
stable block, paintings hanging in the wine tower. Like the art, the food is sensational and African-grown, and
every meal is served in a different spot: by a pool, at a riverside picnic table, in the candle-lit stables. You can do
what you like, when you like. One day, explore the solar-power and rainwater-harvesting plants (more fascinating
than they sound) or learn about wildlife conservation in the little museum; another day, hike with a guide to spot
elephants or lie by the pool after a massage, watching luminous sunbirds.FLASH POINT Segera is proof that its
possible to build something eco-friendly and luxurious that also supports the local community. www.segera.com.
Doubles from about 1,165 full board, including game drives, guided walks and other activities
THE
HOT LIST
2014
ITALY
JK PLACE ROMA
In Rome, the best hotels are in the wrong places,
as Byron complained. That changed last autumn
with the opening of JK Place Roma in a quiet street
off the intersection of via Condotti and via del
Corso. Not that you would take the 17th-century
building for a hotel, more the townhouse of cool
young aristocrats. The entrance courtyard has been
glazed over to create a contemporary living room
ablaze with light and overlooked by statuary.
Art is everywhere, and the glamour quotient high
without tipping into pretension. All of which
seems appropriate in this radical conversion of
what was formerly the Sapienza universitys school
of architecture. The bedrooms, big by Roman
standards, are done out in serene colours, with
well-lit bathrooms in matching marble. JK Caf,
with its menu of revitalised favourites (carbonara,
salt cod, puttanesca), is open to non-residents,
and the effect has been to unleash a buzz of
local gossip and youthful laughter that provides
a better connection to the real Rome than the
self-conscious isolation of other recent boutique
openings. Perhaps this vivacious approach derives
directly from the owners experience of mixing
fun and fashion at JK Place Capri, which almost
single-handedly lowered the holiday islands
centre of gravity. FLASH POINT Perfect for
a paparazzi-proof stay, and equidistant from the
Spanish Steps and the Pantheon. +39 06 982634;
www.jkroma.com. Doubles from about 490
SOUTH AFRICA
SINGITA CASTLETON, SABI SAND

The most elegant safari lodges are usually either Out of Africa retro or
airy and contemporary, with stone, plate glass and innity pools. Singita
Castleton is neither of these, yet so much more. Built in 1926 as a simple
homestead for the Bailes family, it has been converted into one of the
most extraordinary places in Africa by Luke Bailes, grandson of the original
owner. Set in the private, 45,000-acre Singita Sabi Sand Reserve adjacent
to the Kruger National Park, the exclusive-use property is surrounded by
game-rich savannah overlooking a lake, which attracts elephant and antelope,
with regular sightings of the big cats. It retains the atmosphere of a family
farmhouse, with a stylish living area in the main house and bedrooms in
six separate cottages. The design is pristine, practical, modern and unfussy.
Butlers, chefs and game rangers are on hand, and a days activities might
include game drives, tennis, swimming, spa treatments and dining under
the stars. FLASH POINT You cant take the African bush to your home,
but Castleton feels like a home in the African bush. +27 21 683 3424;
www.singita.com/castleton. From about 3,970 per night for up to eight guests
74
FRANCE
DOMAINE DE LA BAUME, PROVENCE

Dont be put off by the steep, unpaved road leading down to this ochre
18th-century manor, once the home of artist Bernard Buffet. A deeply
comfortable 15-room hideaway revamped by hotelier Jocelyne Sibuet,
it is an eye-catching mix of rustic and Italian baroque, from the openbeam farmhouse dining room to cosy frescoed parlours with replaces
for afternoon tea, should the Mistral kick up. Upstairs, each suite is
decked out with hand-picked antiques, toile de Jouy and pastel fabrics,
four-poster beds and pretty prints of butteries and birds. For the best
hillside views, ask for the spacious LAbeille (Bee) suite, named after a
Buffet painting; the estate has its own beehives. Youll want to explore
the leafy 99-acre grounds on foot, mountain bike or horseback, then
laze by the pool or have a massage in the mini-spa cabin in the woods,
near a whooshing waterfall. Chef Franois Martin cooks with ingredients
plucked from the kitchen garden and drizzled with the house olive oil,
whipping up dishes such as truffle risotto, lamb with purple-basil pesto,
and roast gs with rosemary ice cream. FLASH POINT If you can tear
yourself away from the dreamy terrace overlooking the valley, the medieval
village of Tourtour is just a 10-minute drive away. +33 4 57 74 74 74;
www.domaine-delabaume.com. Doubles from about 360 half board
USA
LOEWS REGENCY HOTEL, NEW YORK
PHOTOGRAPHS: FREDERIC DUCOUT; ALICE GAO; MATTHIEU SALVAING
Park Avenue has never been over-endowed with great places to stay. The Loews Regency is
one of the few, and it has great pedigree: its owners, the Tisch family, are one of the citys
wealthiest clans, and the restaurant is renowned for its power breakfasts. But in recent years
the clubby interior had grown dated and dowdy, and the place was dead in the evenings. Then
came a year-long, $100-million renovation, and the hotel reopened its doors in January. The new
look is bright and gleaming, with a strong Art Deco avour: lots of mirror and chrome, a palette
of black, white and grey, and masses of marble. The 379 rooms are very comfortable, and
continue the Art Deco theme, but what sets them apart is their generous size and huge marble
baths. The Regency Bar & Grill is buzzing again thanks to chef Dan Silverman, formerly of
The Standard Grill, whose no-frills approach to quality meats and sh shines in dishes such as
seared duck breast with dried cherries and pistachios. (There are also some knockout desserts,
including a popcorn pot de crme.) Throw in an adorable tiled coffee bar from local favourite
Sant Ambroeus and youve got a property aiming to be part of the citys lifeblood once more.
FLASH POINT There are cooler hotels in town, but for a grown-up, uptown experience, the
Loews is your new best bet. +1 212 759 4100; www.loewshotels.com. Doubles from about 280
SWITZERLAND
W VERBIER
Verbier has always attracted a crowd of adrenalin-driven, hardcore skiers who like to party.
The playful, urban edge of the new W slots into this scene perfectly, from the see-andbe-seen Living Room lounge, with its valley views and slick murals, to the leather-and-mirror
Carve bar, a modern alternative to Verbiers famous but ageing Farm Club. And since it is
right beside the resorts main Medran lift, guests can also practically ski into the hotel. The
Amsterdam-based rm Architects Concrete (also responsible for the W London Leicester
Square) has created a Manhattan vibe within a rustic, Alpine envelope by combining synthetic
materials with wood, leather and stone nishes and lots of red. All 123 bedrooms, furnished
with Eames classics, are big and have double-sided replaces separating bedrooms from
bathrooms. Catalan chef Sergi Arola, whose Madrid restaurant has two Michelin stars, brings
his pica pica style of dining to the Arola restaurant: sharing plates of porc Iberique presa with
local ewes cheese are served alongside the chefs signature dishes such as the cylindrical,
deep-fried patatas bravas. There are ski-focused massage treatments at the AWAY Spa and
a spectacular indoor-outdoor swimming pool. FLASH POINT The W Verbier has taken
branded hospitality on the slopes to an altogether funkier level. +41 27 472 8888; www.
wverbier.com. Doubles from about 200
THE
HOT LIST
2014
PERU
HOTEL B, LIMA
Its very odd that such a creative, cosmopolitan city as Lima has lacked a smart
boutique hotel for so long. And there was trepidation among discerning limeos
as to what this new venue might be like. As it happens, Hotel B is as rened yet
artistically left-eld as the bohemian neighborhood of Barranco it inhabits. The
imaginary owner dreamt up by interior designer Jordi Puig is Florita Trista, a
Peruvian aristo art dealer with a passion for travel and a habit of breaking the rules.
Hotel B was conceived as Tristas private home, thrown open to display a dazzling
collection of contemporary Peruvian art and highlight her exceptional talent as
a hostess. There are sweeping marble staircases, fragrant bowls of fresh-cut roses
and signicant artworks (by the likes of Victor Rodriguez and Jos Tola) on loan from
the de la Puente sisters, Hotel Bs investors and founders of the ground-breaking
Lucia de la Puente gallery which is connected to the hotel. Dramatic canvases
dominate the white walls of the 17 high-ceilinged bedrooms. At breakfast in the
library, waiters in crisp, white jackets serve coffee from silver pots and tamales la
carte, but it is the restaurant thats the real draw: a hit with chic locals for its yellowntuna tataki and sultry candlelight, its also perfect for people-watching over Pisco
Sours. FLASH POINT Lima is red-hot: the food is worth the plane ticket alone, and
now theres a place to stay with a direct connection to the citys vibrant art scene.
+51 1 206 0800; www.hotelb.pe. Doubles from about 245
CHINA
MIRA MOON, HONG KONG

Never mind the jade rabbits and deities that populate the folk legend woven around the
Mira Moon: what youve actually got here is a swish, modish, Chinese-accented, 91-room
hotel in one of Hong Kongs edgiest districts. Sister property to The Mira on the other
side of Victoria Harbour, Mira Moon occupies a former office block, with just four guest
rooms per oor. Hi-tech is not so much embraced as given a bear hug: room service and
much else is writ large on the bedside iPad, Bluetooth allows you to play your own music, and
Wi-Fi pops on the moment you open your laptop. The gizmos segue neatly with the bold
interiors, which include tulip-shaped chairs and lanterns emblazoned with characters
from Chinese mythology; service is efficient, and even the room attendants carry a business
card. A Spanish and a Chinese chef vie with each other in the restaurant, while coffee and
Chinese tea are served in the lobby (more of a salon, really). Mira Moons location in Wanchai
grants harbour views to the north, and raw urban vistas at other points of the compass.
FLASH POINT This is a 21st-century Chinese hangout with super-assured hospitality and
a fun-lled vibe. +852 2643 8888; www.miramoonhotel.com. Doubles from about 120
NEW ZEALAND
This must be the ultimate New Zealand escape, in a spectacular location

overlooking Lake Wakatipu, just minutes from South Islands adventure capital,
Queenstown. Built in the elevated grounds of Matakauri Lodge the third
in Julian Robertsons portfolio, which also includes The Lodge at Kauri Cliffs
and The Farm at Cape Kidnappers this cottage, available with either two or
four generous bedrooms (each with a sitting room and bathroom), is ideal for
families or groups of friends. Acclaimed Auckland interior designer Virginia
Fisher has lavished her unique style throughout. Its the little things that give her
designs such a sense of place: a silver rabbit rug, reindeer skins, and blankets
made by the artisans who created costumes for The Lord of the Rings. You can
absorb the cinematic views from the hot tub on the front balcony, while the
adjacent lakeside terrace is the spot for sundowners; help yourself from the bar
or cellar. Dont feel like dressing up for dinner at the lodge? No problem, theres
a barbecue and kitchen, and the chef can come to you. FLASH POINT When
the global nancial crisis hit the rest of the world, New Zealand must have been
far enough away not to feel it. +64 3 441 1008; www.matakaurilodge.com.
From about 4,760 per night for four guests, half board
76
PHOTOGRAPHS: MATTHEW BUCK; ALICE GAO
OWNERS COTTAGE AT MATAKAURI
UK
ACE HOTEL LONDON SHOREDITCH

Walk into the lobby of the Ace and youll instantly feel the
energy. A reception, coffee shop, bar and lounge rolled
into one, it reverberates with the chatter of creatives from
students to CEOs using it as a work space and meeting
place. In the evenings, up-and-coming DJs play to a crowd
drinking Sipsmith and tonic and chomping on brioche-bun
burgers like theyre at a private party. Unique artworks
sheet-music collages, photographic wallpaper and typographic
prints are everywhere, and the low-lit bedrooms have unusual
touches such as denim bedspreads, hoodie dressing gowns
and plastic crates instead of drawers. The fun is infectious.
Brasserie Hoi Polloi by the Bistrotheque guys has a
good-time atmosphere, too: tracks from Hot Chip, Tom Vek
and Pet Shop Boys get toes tapping. Quite some effort has
gone into making it effortlessly cool: waiters wear all-grey
Nike Air Max and mint Sibling jumpers; when youve chosen
what to eat (the crab salad is full of zing), read about milliner
Stephen Jones on the back page of the menu. After midnight,
when things properly get going, seek out the hard-to-spot
basement bar (entry is from the street). Its a dark, strippedback warehouse-style space with barmen in bobble hats
and bobos dancing to disco, golden-age hip-hop and electro.
When the rooftop bar opens its bound to be summers
hottest hangout. FLASH POINT Its great for East London,
with its buzzy galleries, boutiques and bars, that such a
big, punchy hotel has teken root here. +44 20 7613 9800;
www.acehotel.com/london. Doubles from 123
CHINA
HOTEL ECLAT, BEIJING

Expectations are raised when youre presented
on arrival with a neon-lit Chinese moon
gate, a Dal bronze sculpture and two iron
doors from Londons Battersea Power Station.
And Hotel Eclat doesnt disappoint. Art
collections are a Beijing hotel trend, but
this place wins for sheer diversity: a Warhol
here, a hanging shark installation by Chen
Wenling there and commissioned Timothy
Oulton travel chests beside the beds. There
are Fendi and Herms bespoke bicycles, and
giant photos of Beijing landmarks by Wang
Guofeng along the corridors. But its not
all about art. The central location near Ritan
Park makes it a brilliant base from which
to access all areas of the sprawling capital.
Book one of the pool suites for a typically nonconformist combination of cream-coloured
Korean marble, dark-leather walls and geeky
gadgetry such as 3D TVs and automatic
back-massaging chairs. Out on the terrace,
youll nd white sofas and a ve-metre
heated pool for a late-night dip. This is rockstar chic, Chinese-style. The downside is
theres no restaurant, but the very good Opera
Bombana is in the adjacent Parkview Green
complex, serving tagliatelle with sea urchin,
courgettes and Sardinian bottarga by chef
Umberto Bombana. FLASH POINT No other
downtown Beijing hotel offers such a blend
of stylish bravura and personalised comfort.
+86 10 8561 2888; www.eclathotels.com/
beijing. Doubles from about 375
UK
GREAT NORTHERN HOTEL, LONDON

It may not have the turreted twiddly bits of its neighbour, St Pancras Renaissance London, but
this Kings Cross landmark, reimagined by hotelier Jeremy Robson after 12 years in the doldrums,
is a smooth-running sweetheart of a place. Its also so close to the station platforms you could
get there in about three minutes. The vibe is private and clubby, smart and functional, with
American walnut panelling, Anglepoise lamps and walls painted aubergine, olive or dusky blue.
Check-in is a calm, quiet corner where you can catch your breath, and loungey GNH Bar is the
sort of place to settle in with a Bloody Mary and potted Dungeness shrimps on toast (or you
could dash to Kiosk, right on the concourse, for salt-beef sandwiches and other grab-and-run
deliciousness). For those with more time, Plum + Spilt Milk is a heavenly little dining room
with curvy, cream-leather banquettes and varnished resin tabletops lit by hand-blown glass
pendant lights. Chef Mark Sargeant (formerly of Gordon Ramsay at Claridges) produces
updated British classics, such as a sensational roast Goosenargh chicken for two. Because the
building is listed, the bedrooms remain compact (the smallest are modelled on railway sleeper
compartments), but on each of the upper ve oors there are help-yourself pantries stocked
with tea, coffee and cakes. FLASH POINT All the romance of rail travel with none of the chintz.
+44 20 3388 0800; www.gnhlondon.com. Doubles from 160
78
THE
HOT LIST
2014
INDIA
ABODE, MUMBAI
If you can keep your wits about you while others are losing theirs, the world
is yours. This loose paraphrase of If by Bombay-born Rudyard Kipling is
emblazoned in neon script at the otherwise discreet entrance to Abode.
Its the citys rst really smart boutique hotel, tucked behind the Gateway
of India in the historic Colaba district. The sign might just as easily read: Stay
here and Mumbai will be yours. Hotel options in Indias nancial capital have
until now been fairly charmless, and all at near London prices. Abode is
the antidote. With just 20 rooms and set in historic Lansdowne House, it
combines personal service, low-key luxury and the intimacy of a guesthouse.
The loft-style caf is a haven from the cacophony of the streets, but theres a
sense of place everywhere: the oor tiles are Parsi, a nod to the importance
of that community in Mumbai; the raffia blinds recall coconut groves and
shing villages. British co-founder Lizzie Chapman is an exponent of ethical
tourism, so there are Parle G biscuits to hand out to street children, the
shawls on sale are from a womens collective, and Abode only uses female
taxi drivers, many of them single mothers. FLASH POINT Check in
and tune in: Abode is next to Mumbais hottest galleries and restaurants.
+91 8080 234066; www.abodeboutiquehotels.com. Doubles from about 40
USA
PALIHOUSE SANTA MONICA

Those looking for old-school California glamour should check into this romantic new place from
hotelier Avi Brosh. Opened last summer a few streets away from the Pacic, the gorgeous 37-room
beach lodge is in a landmark Mediterranean Revival building that dates back to 1927, when Santa
Monica was the last stop on the railway line. The sun-lled guest rooms, designed for families on a
long stay at the beach, are all different, but each is wonderfully spacious, with lovely exposed beams,
whimsical animal-print wallpaper, walk-in wardrobes and huge windows that open to let in the
ocean breeze; some have kitchens. Striking design touches include work-bench desks, bell jars and
mirrored dressing rooms. Although its steps from the busy Third Street Promenade, various shopping
arcades and the Santa Monica Pier, the location feels quiet and hidden away. The lobby with
its original mosaic oor and tasteful taxidermy has nooks and banquettes for breakfast, lunch or
afternoon tea from the terric in-house caf (the chef shops twice a week at the famous Santa
Monica farmers market; dinner and bar service will be offered later this year). Visitors can also
check out the hotels Palifornia app, an insider guide to Los Angeles with curated recommendations
on favourite beaches, bars, hikes and other fun. FLASH POINT Sophisticated SoCal nostalgia
lives on. +1 310 394 1279; www.palihouse.com. Doubles from about 165
THAILAND
PHOTOGRAPHS: MATTHEW BUCK; BEN MCMILLAN
POINT YAMU, PHUKET

Christina Ong, the Singaporean hotelier behind the COMO group, must have
hugged herself when she came across the empty shell of Point Yamu. Its developers
had gone bust, so the place was up for grabs, fully built but undecorated, on
the crest of a little headland jutting into Phang Nga Bay. She hired the Italian
designer Paola Navone a lover of uncluttered white spaces and artisanship
to do the interiors, and persuaded James Low, the general manager of her
Metropolitan hotel in Bangkok, to come down and run things. The result is one
of those places where guests arrive with all sorts of expeditions planned, then
fail to move. Because of its elevation, a constant breeze ripples across the big
pool terrace, the perfect place to settle with a book after a celestial breakfast.
The monochrome scheme, punctuated with blue and ashes of turquoise, lends
the lofty spaces an infectious insouciance. The only downside is the lack of a
beach. Still, its fun to chug off on a longtail boat to the beach club on a nearby
island, so problem solved. FLASH POINT Point Yamu feels wonderfully
secluded, but Phuket Town is only a 20-minute taxi ride away. +66 7636 0100;
www.comohotels.com/pointyamu. Doubles from about 285
ITALY
AMAN CANAL GRANDE,

VENICE
News that Amanresorts was taking over
a historic palazzo on the Grand Canal had
been bubbling under for years. When the
24-suite hotel nally opened last summer,
it became clear what had taken so long. The
late-Renaissance Palazzo Papadopoli is a
Casanova fantasy of sweeping staircases,
marble replaces and frescoed reception
rooms. Restoring all this, while fashioning
an Aman-style hotel out of the family home
of Giberto and Bianca Arrivabene (who still
live on the top oor) was a big challenge. It
would have been easy to turn the ballroom
or the library into bedrooms, especially with
their Grand Canal views; instead they have
been left intact, the rst becoming the
dining room of the hotels Asian-Venetian
restaurant, while the latter remains a quiet
reading room. The sense of space (along
with discreet service) makes guests feel they
own the palazzo, if only for the duration of
their stay. The bedrooms blend Venetian
ornament with sober tones of grey, cream
and white; in the Alcove Tiepolo you can
lie in bed contemplating an original ceiling
fresco by the artist. The small spa and not
one but two gardens are welcome havens.
FLASH POINT Amanresorts has got
the balance just right at this deeply calming
sanctuary. +39 041 270 7333; www.
amanresorts.com. Suites from about 1,365
THAILAND
THE
HOT LIST
2014
INIALA BEACH HOUSE, PHUKET

Eleven brilliant designers worked on the three villas and penthouse at Iniala,
and the results are eye-popping, mostly in a good way. Each room is different:
a hanging bed, undulating wicker ceiling and gold-domed private spa here;
a oor that moves like sand, china-studded wall or dazzling white marble
bathroom there. Add a restaurant overseen by Spanish maestro Eneko Axta,
a sensational pasty chef and a cool sommelier, and you wont want to share
Iniala with anyone else. Each three-bedroom villa has a private spa, and at
the end of the day once you have nally rolled off the massage bed its
rather delectable to wander over to the 22-seat private cinema (all shag-pile
and air-con) or the games room with its Thai-boxing ring (plus instructor) and
Swarovski-studded pool table, after depositing the children in their own
quarters with fort and tree-house. With Phuket airport 20 minutes away, and
a hotel next door for guest overspill, Iniala is perfectly pitched for a wedding
or multi-generational family get-together albeit on an oligarchs budget.
FLASH POINT Owner Mark Weingard donates 10 per cent of prots to his
charity, the Inspirasia Foundation, which can only add to the feel-good factor.
+66 67 451456; www.iniala.com. One-bedroom suite from about 1,780
USA
THE REDBURY SOUTH BEACH, MIAMI
PHOTOGRAPHS: MATTHEW BUCK; MARK LUSCOME-WHYTE/THE INTERIOR ARCHIVE
After a total refurbishment, the former Fairfax hotel reopened last

November as a fresh-faced, 69-room property. It may look like a bit of
a runt in the shadow of Collins Avenue neighbours such as the 13-storey
Delano, but as the smallest member of the SBE hotel group, it proves
that bigger is not necessarily better. The edgy, playful design by Ashley
Manhan includes black-and-white oor tiles and red Adirondack chairs
in the central courtyard. Upstairs, corridors lined with grey-and-white
wallpaper are punctuated with red, lemon-yellow and amingo-pink
doors. The bedrooms are big, with mirrored wardrobes, boxy Geneva
alarm clocks and faux-vintage turntables with a stack of 78s. There are
great views from the rooftop pool terrace, and a herb garden and bar are
to be added this summer. Chef Tony Mantuanos restaurant, Lorenzo,
produces sharing plates of pizzette, Nonnas meatballs and gnocchi with
boar rag. FLASH POINT With access to The Raleigh and SLS South
Beach, this is a buy-one-get-two-free combo thats hard to beat. +1 885
220 1776; www.theredbury.com/southbeach. Doubles from about 190
UK
ROSEWOOD LONDON
How to stand out among all the snazzy new hotels in London? First, nd a place to call
your own. For its UK debut, the Rosewood group has created not just a new hotel, but a
new area: Midtown. Whether you buy into the rebranding of Holborn or not, its location
is actually quite handy, being a short stroll from Covent Garden, the British Museum and
Oxford Street. This belle poque building was originally the home of Pearl Assurance (the
company installed the seven-storey marble staircase) and more recently the Renaissance
Chancery Court Hotel. After an 85-million ret, the vibe is distinctly English-manorhouse, with at-capped doormen and jars of sweets in the lobby. The grey, taupe and
cream scheme is jazzed up with Asian accents (lacquered furniture, Chinese porcelain
cups in the bathrooms), and theres homemade sloe gin in the bedrooms. The library-like
Scarfes Bar (lobster curries by day, killer cocktails by night) and the glittering Mirror
Room (squishy chesterelds and a menu including rose veal tartare and seared foie gras)
lie at either end of the bronze corridor separating the lobby from the outside world. The
new Holborn Dining Room by ex-Ivy head chef Des McDonald adds a brasserie buzz,
whether youre after a sh-nger sandwich or a slap-up steak. FLASH POINT Holborn
just got sexy. +44 20 7781 8888; www.rosewoodhotels.com/london. Doubles from 295
81
THE
HOT LIST
2014
USA
HOTEL ZETTA,
SAN FRANCISCO
If theres a place that captures the
youthful, tech-savvy zeitgest of San
Francisco right now, its the citys rst
hotel from the Viceroy group. In a
prime location near Union Square in
the SoMa neighbourhood, Zetta has
a spacious lobby and bar ooded with
natural light, and a playful aesthetic
(chandeliers made of spectacles)
thats modern and clubby. Shared
seating abounds, and theres a play
room stocked with pool, shuffleboard
and other games to encourage
socialising. At check-in, staff make
a point of informing guests that the
complimentary Wi-Fi extends to
10 devices, and theres vintage-tech
decor in the bedrooms (a wall-sized
portrait of a woman made from oppy
disks) as well as an Atari console and
a turntable with a selection of old
albums. More modern kit includes an
Illy espresso machine and a G-Link
dock that streams music and video
from an iPhone or iPad to the TV.
Room service delivers a great burger,
but its worth going to the source: the
Cavalier brasserie, which specialises
in British classics such as sh and
chips and steak-and-oyster pie.
FLASH POINT A cracking addition
to Viceroys Urban Retreats collection.
+1 415 543 8555; www.viceroyhotel
group.com. Doubles from about 160
AUSTRALIA
1888 HOTEL, SYDNEY

Its rare to nd somewhere that combines good
value with really smart touches, a sense of place
and a distinctive soul. But thats exactly what this
90-bedroom Sydney hotel delivers. A 16-million
makeover has breathed new life into the place,
a 19th-century former wool factory and store in
Pyrmont, while keeping its period windows and
exposed, wonky brickwork, now a backdrop to
Minotti chairs, vintage furniture and recycled pieces
(the desks are made of wood salvaged from the
original building). When it opened last summer,
it instantly seemed to have been there forever,
with a warmly lit bar and retro design straight out
of an Edward Hopper canvas. Rooms vary in size
from tiny to generous, and some only have internal
views (overlooking the atrium); but all have iPads,
well-stocked fridges and MicroCloud bed-toppers.
The atrium, complete with g tree, is the hub of
the hotel, whether for a long, lazy breakfast (the
soy-linseed sourdough bread is sensational) or
a sociable evening accompanied by craft beers,
artisanal gin, vodka or whisky, regional wines and
small plates of tasty organic dishes, from beef
sliders to sharing plates of slow-roasted salt-bush
lamb shoulder. FLASH POINT Home-grown and
proud of it, 1888 is a deant statement amid the
citys increasing globalisation. +61 2 8586 1888;
www.1888hotel.com.au. Doubles from about 85
TURKEY
PHOTOGRAPH: WHITNEY LAWSON
ALAVYA, ALACATI
Discovering a little hotel thats at once cool, stylish and impeccably curated usually comes with
a ipside: you have to dress up to t in. Not so at Alavya, in chichi Alacati on the Izmir peninsula.
Yes, its the new go-to hidey-hole for the great and good of Istanbul, but the money is muted,
the fashion (though high) is discreet, and egos are parked at the door, albeit next to a string of
Bentleys and Mercs. From the decor (blond wood, heavy linens and monochrome sketches with
an occasional bark of humour) to the intimate little spa and the smart but relaxed restaurant
Mitu, the entire place is a meditation on chic. Stitched together out of six old village houses, it
feels more like a hamlet than a hotel. In one room there are lofty vaulted ceilings, in another a
four-poster, a sun-blushed balcony, an enormous hot tub. Get out and wander the caf-clustered
streets of Alacati. Lose a morning in the antique shops on Haci Memis street. Head up to Urla
vineyard to taste wines winning Decanter awards by the case. Just make sure youre back by
dusk for a poolside chat before everyone slips away for supper, while glowing lanterns swing
silently in the breeze. FLASH POINT Its not the rst boutique hotel in Alacati, but its the most
heavenly. +90 232 716 6632; www.alavya.com.tr. Doubles from about 160
REPORTS FROM JULIAN ALLASON, JONATHAN BASTABLE, RALPH BESTIC, GARY BOWERMAN, PETER BROWNE, CHRIS CALDICOTT,
FIONA CAULFIELD, ONDINE COHANE, GUY DITTRICH, FIONA DUNCAN, NATASHA EDWARDS, MARION FOX, LYDIA GARD, LANIE GOODMAN,
LISA GRAINGER, LAUREN HOLMES, FIONA KERR, EMMA LOVE, HAZEL LUBBOCK, NATHAN LUMP, MARY LUSSIANA, RICHARD MADDEN,
LEE MARSHALL, JESSICA MOAZAMI, SOPHIA MONEY-COUTTS, LULI ORCHARD, ED PETERS, MICHELE PETERSON, ADRIAANE PIELOU,
STEPHANIE RAFANELLI, FRANCESCA SYZ, BONNIE TSUI, ISSY VON SIMSON, DOMINIC WELLS, TRICIA WELSH
83
84
PHOTOGRAPH: CHANTELLE GRADY
cream
of
the
crop
san francisco is stealing new yorks crown as the foodie capital
of america. REGULAR VISITOR KATE MAXWELL dishes up THE TOP SPOTS
Chocolate ice-cream sandwich with apricot at State Bird Provisions. Opposite, the Powell & Hyde cable car
hank the dot-com crew. The Bay Areas climate and the
edible, quaffable bounty it yields, its enlightened attitude to
agriculture, farm-to-table pioneers such as Alice Waters and
its multicultural population have blessed it with phenomenal
food for decades. But in the past few years, the wealth
generated by the tech boom has helped kick San Franciscos
culinary scene up another gear. As housing prices have
soared (property is now more expensive per square foot in
the city than anywhere else in the USA), new restaurants that
offer innovative eating in casual settings white tablecloths
dont go with the hoodies beloved of Mark Zuckerberg and his ilk
has emerged. Add farmers markets, avant-garde bakeries, some
of the best Mexican food north of the border, ice-cream emporia
that would give Willy Wonka the willies and you can see why the
locals claim San Franciscos food has never been better. Chefs are
moving from New York to the West Coast, rather than the other way
around, and the chat on the buses that shuttle techies from their city
apartments to their Silicon Valley HQs is all about whats for dinner.
86
This page, clockwise

from above: Dolores
Street in the Mission
District; Blue Bottle
Coffee; Rich Table;
a vintage shop in the
Mission. Opposite:
white-chocolate cream
with raspberries at Rich
Table; the dining room
at State Bird Provisions
PHOTOGRAPHS: ALEX FARNUM/AUGUST;

CHANTELLE GRADY; RACHEL WEILL
ElA predominantly
Farolito Latino area since the 1940s, the Mission is
now a hipster haven of fancy bike stores, vintage boutiques
and coffee shops, but its still the place to go for a taco or a
burrito. Everyone has a favourite taqueria, whether its a
traditional joint or a nouveau spot such as Tacolicious. My
pick is the divey, old-school El Farolito, one of nine locations,
at the bottom of still-grungy Mission Street, with its palm
trees, pawnshops and dollar stores. Order the pitch-perfect
taco carnitas: steaming-hot, juicy without being greasy, with
just the right amount of herbs and spice. 2779 Mission Street
(+1 415 824 7877; www.elfarolitoinc.com). About 10 for two
rich
table
Innovative comfort food with the occasional foraged morsel is
the order of the day at this restaurant in Hayes Valley. Begin
with the Dirty Hippie, a mousse of buttermilk, wheatgrass,
sprouts and seeds, and sardine chips (homemade crisps neatly
threaded with sardines) before the signature main: a chicken

lasagne with texture and depth thanks to its wheatgerm sauce
and popped-sorghum sprinkles on top. Leave room for a slice
of punchy Bleu de Termignon cheese, served with homemade
bread, and make sure you have a chat with the charming chef
and co-owner Evan Rich. But dont ask him for his favourite
foraging spots he wont tell you. 199 Gough Street (+1 415
355 9085; www.richtablesf.com). About 80 for two
Blue
Bottle Coffee
San Franciscans like their food fresh, and the same goes for
their coffee. Only beans roasted less than 48 hours earlier make
the cup, and every drink is individually brewed. The downside?
A long wait. The rst time I joined the queue here it was 40
minutes before I got my turn; the bunny faces the barista was
drawing on every coffee were not exactly expediting matters.
Still, it was the creamiest, smoothest latte ever, and they havent
disappointed since. 1 Ferry Building (www.bluebottlecoffee.com)
88
PHOTOGRAPH: CHANTELLE GRADY
State bird provisions

Book well in advance for this game-changer below
posh Pacic Heights, serving modern dim sum: its the
citys toughest reservation. The short menu includes
the highly recommended State Bird with Provisions:
lemony, deep-fried California quail. Everything else
(exquisite guinea-hen dumplings with duck-liver
mousse; nori-seaweed chips lled with hamachi) is
passed around on trays and carts by the ebullient
waiters and chef/co-owner Stuart Brioza. Each dish is
so beautifully presented its hard to refuse anything,
and the whole experience feels like one huge, hopping
dinner party. 1529 Fillmore Street (+1 415 795 1272;
www.statebirdsf.com). About 50 for two
central kitchen
Its not often that brunch inspires the entire table
to reach for their iPhones and tap the Instagram app,
but thats what happened when the rabbit terrine
arrived. This year-old Inner Mission spot is from the
people behind the lauded Italian joint Flour + Water.
With its creative food, retractable-roofed dining room,
adjoining Salumeria deli, and smiley staff in Dame
Edna specs and ombre hairdos, Central Kitchen is
quintessential Northern Cali. Theres even a local
ros on tap. 3000 20th Street (+1 415 826 7004; www.
centralkitchensf.com). About 65 for two
Mission
Chinese Food
What began as a pop-up by 30-year-old chef Danny
Bowien at Lung Shan Restaurant is now a thriving
permanent xture (Lung Shan is still the name on
the awning, which is why I walked past it three times)
with an outpost in New Yorks Lower East Side. Popular
dishes on the Americanised Oriental menu include
addictive Chongqing chicken wings and Polynesian pork
spare ribs; for a lighter meal, try the spicy octopus and
lambs tongue salad, a complex balance of fatty and
spicy avours, with dandelion greens, Chinese celery and
cumin vinaigrette. 2234 Mission Street (+1 415 863 2800;
www.missionchinesefood.com). About 30 for two
Clockwise from this picture:

the Golden Gate Bridge;
Park Tavern; mustard
and honey at Salumeria;
Flour + Water; kiwi and
raspberry at Park Tavern;
cocktail hour at Rich Table;
Victorian houses. Previous
pages: Air Mail cocktails
craftsman & wolves

There will always be Tartine, the Francophile bakery
that has been the place to get ones daily bread in the
Mission for almost two decades. But for innovative
riffs on patisserie classics (pain au cochon, passion-fruit
sesame croissant) and sweet treats (clairs, lime tarts),
90
head to chef William Werners new minimalist space around

the corner, which has motivational quotes on the walls and
plaid-shirted types at the tables. Order the Rebel Within,
a savoury scone with a soft-cooked egg inside. Breakfast is
rarely this exciting. 746 Valencia Street (+1 415 913 7713;
www.craftsman-wolves.com). Breakfast about 15 for two
Benu
Good luck getting a reservation at Thomas Kellers legendary
French Laundry, over the Golden Gate Bridge in Napa. You
have a much better chance at this haute SoMa spot, which has
Keller disciple Corey Lee at the stove. Its a serious-looking
place with a minimalist Japanese aesthetic, and the food is
both inventive and unbelievably tasty. The only option is the
tasting menu, which varies from 16 to 19 courses. Stand-outs
among the dishes I tried were oily river trout in breadcrumbs
and a mind-blowing chocolate, praline and caramel bomb
with banana pure. 22 Hawthorne Street (+1 415 685 4860;
www.benusf.com). About 240 for two
PHOTOGRAPHS: ALEX FARNUM/AUGUST; CHANTELLE GRADY
park tavern
With hefty beams on the ceiling and black tiles on the
walls, a warm, lively atmosphere, trendy crowd and
hearty, fresh-from-the-market menu, this handsome spot
in North Beach exemplies San Franciscos laid-back
foodie style. Start with a bar snack or two (I liked
the devilled eggs with smoked bacon and jalapeo)
and a Washington Square cocktail, a deliciously acidic
concoction of limoncello, Aperol, ginger and prosecco,
before the main event: whole poulet noir served with
black trufes, or a whopper of a pork chop paired
with Parmesan risotto. 1652 Stockton Street (+1 415 989
7300; www.parktavernsf.com). About 60 for two
Its not often that brunch inspires the entire party to

reach for their iPhones and tap the instagram app
san franciscos tastiest places to stay

Hotel Vitale
The Vitale is in an unbeatable
location across the road from
the Embarcadero and four
minutes walk from the Ferry
Building, home to one of the
citys best farmers markets.
Book a Waterfront room
for a view of the Bay Bridge,
currently glittering at night with
New York artist Leo Villareals
Bay Lights installation. Natural
materials (stone, wood) in
the public spaces and a shadesof-beige palette in the large,
comfortable bedrooms create
a tranquil vibe; theres a small
spa with two outdoor soaking

tubs. www.hotelvitale.com.
The St Regis San Francisco
In SoMa, a short stroll from
Benu restaurant, the St Regis
has sleek interiors, a great art
collection, eye-popping city
views, a pool and a 9,000sq ft
spa. The bar is an after-work
hotspot, and Michelin-starred
Ame restaurant, with its misobowl-red interiors, mixes French,
Italian and Japanese avours.
www.stregissanfrancisco.com.
Clift Hotel
If you want to stay where the
scene is, check in here. Philippe
Starck has left his surrealist
ngerprints all over the public
spaces, and the panelled
Redwood Room bar is buzzy,
particularly at weekends.
Bedrooms, done up in soothing
colours (white, violet, the odd
pop of tangerine), provide
respite from the aesthetic feast
downstairs. www.clifthotel.com.
Hotel Zetta
See the Hot List, page 82
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The harbour at
Kastellorizo, with the
cliff steps visible in
the rockface. Opposite,
a bedroom at the
Mediterraneo hotel
93
A vintage motorbike in Kastellorizo

village. Opposite from top: a view
of the harbour from Marie
Rivalants home; the interior of
holiday rental Casa Marina
94
arie rivalant first saw Kastellorizo from a

boat that was taking her from Kas on the Anatolian coast. She was
18 and on a summer break from her architectural studies in Paris.
She could not know how the island would later come to shape
her life, but she wondered at it nevertheless this small rocky
form rising from the sea, called by some the last stop in Europe,
just two miles off the southern Turkish coast but so far from the
rest of Greece. On Greek maps it is usually placed in its own box.
She got to the island another summer on a ferry ticket given
away for free just to encourage people to visit it. She returned
year after year, on one occasion pregnant, then with her three
children, staying in a small guesthouse and swimming with them
out of the harbour to a little beach that looked towards the
white houses of Kas. They ate feta and tomatoes and sh fresh
from the sea and walked the goat tracks of Kastellorizos
hinterland. It seemed a natural life, an escape, an antidote to
Paris, where by then she was working as an architect. Somehow
it was made more precious by the difculty of getting to it. You
felt that you had earned the sensation it gave you.
In 2001 an islander who liked her family and was feeling old
and frail offered her a long lease on a waterfront mansion being
run as a small pensione called Mediterraneo. She thought of
having it as a summer house but instead took the lease and left
the running of it to the woman who had been in charge before.
She kept coming back, putting icons and paintings and vibrant
colours in the rooms, creating lounging areas and vantage points
for views, turning the whole ground level into a single suite with
grand stone arches, shuttered French doors opening to the bay
and a blood-red bathroom. She offered breakfasts of nuts and
fruits and fresh bread and honey and yogurt on a long table under
a canopy on a terrace looking towards the archipelago beyond.
Guests kept returning, many of them Italians drawn at rst by a
famous war-time lm also called Mediterraneo which was shot in
the house next door, but later by the simple beauty and peace
of the place. Life in Paris had grown stagnant for Marie, while the
island called. Then she fell in love with Yrgos Lazarakis, who runs
a harbour-front taverna, and married him. She designed a house
for them on a high ridge between an old windmill and the knights
castle from which they can see sunrise and sunset and the two
harbours. The place she had looked at with unexpected curiosity
from the railing of a boat 30 years ago is now her home.
Greek islands, in spite of a continuity of sea and landscape,
language and culture, can be surprisingly distinct in character.
An inhabitant of one can speak of those on the next as a
Nebraskan might speak of a Mongolian. Kastellorizo, ofcially
known as Megisti (or Biggest, being the largest island in the
archipelago), takes its tone from its remoteness and also from
a history of both bourgeois prosperity and violent calamity.
Its remoteness makes its existence as a part of Greece a
prolonged act of deance against the odds. Its prosperity came
from its position on trade routes and a harbour said to be the best
between Beirut and Piraeus. Ship owners grew rich. Fine houses
were built. The supporting professions tended more towards
clerks, tailors and merchants than goatherds or shermen. Women
There is a captivating drama when you sail into the harbour; its
pretty and private and so small you feel you could hold it in your hands
wore mantillas, pillbox hats and furs. The land is unusually barren,
even for Greece, and life is concentrated in the village, so that even
now, with its miniscule population, it feels oddly urban. You dont
see those bristled mountain men with knee-high boots and pistols
in their waistbands that you do on Crete. The people of Kastellorizo
wouldnt, for the most part, look out of place in Antwerp.
The catastrophes were conquest, war and an earthquake in
1926. Little Kastellorizo was occupied by Venetians, Turks, French,
Italians and English. German warplanes bombed it, and when
Allied forces were leaving, an arsenal and a fuel tank went up,
destroying half the houses. There was a mass evacuation to
Palestine, and the later trip back home, fraught with drownings,
illnesses and other miseries, could put you in mind of the
devastating migrations of displaced American-Indian tribes. A
population of around 9,000 dropped to 200. Marie Rivalants
mother-in-law, one of 16 children, is the only one in her family
still living on the island. A hillside once swarming with houses
is now mainly pine scrub. Walks bring you past old bunkers and
blockhouses and entanglements of barbed wire. The ghost of
this emptying has its own currents among the sweeter ones.
Even now, it is fragile. Gas and oil nds off Cyprus and
geopolitics involving pipelines, exclusive economic zones, Israel,
Turkey and the European Union have left the islands fate open
to question. This is not to say that the mood is jittery. Visitors,
yachts and contraband move with varying degrees of freedom
between here and Kas. The pace is slow, even sleepy, just rising
a few decibels in the evening when the lights come on and talk
billows lightly upwards from the taverna tables. Up the hill,
though, is a sizeable military base. You dont go too long without
96
seeing a Greek soldier. Turkish military jets occasionally make

intimidating passes. I heard one myself, I think, lying in bed in the
Mediterraneo suite. The earth shook and the sound was like a
screaming buzz saw at your ear, followed by rolling thunder.
d long wanted to go to Kastellorizo. A New York publisher

told me about it 20 years ago, then the poet Brian Patten. I
trusted the tastes of both. I went, nally, for a week in midJune, with the days bright and not too hot, the water stunningly
clear and tranquil before the later summer African winds,
multi-coloured sh and sea turtles drifting on the currents and
the big houses all around the bay freshly painted in yellows,
greens, blues and russet-red. There is an instantly captivating
drama that comes from sailing into the harbour, but one that
produces more a sense of endearment than the awe you feel
going through the caldera of Santorini. Everything is right
there in front of you: churches, tavernas and houses, dignied,
inviting and so far from everything else, with nothing garish or
defensive in sight. It is pretty and private and so small that from
a distance you feel you could hold it in your hands.
People come for the peace that somewhere so intimate and
remote brings. That was the aim of an Italian psychotherapist in
a room upstairs from mine. She read in the sun by the waters
edge, swam a little, did some tai chi at dusk and dined slowly. That
she then feels restored enough to face obdurate neuroses seems
proven by the fact that she returns each year. Australians come
to see the land of their displaced forebears. Many others arrive
on splendid yachts with high sails, stepping directly off their
sterns into a taverna chair. Among them was Dave Gilmour of
Clockwise: the suite and a bedroom

at Mediterraneo; the sitting room
and exterior of Marie Rivalants
home. Opposite, a view towards Kas.
Following pages, Kastellorizo harbour
98
Casa Marina, designed by Marie

Rivalant. Opposite, clockwise from
top left: yogurt and honey at
Mediterraneo; antiques in Casa
Marina; squid hanging to dry;
Villa Zoi, which visitors can rent
101
I came across a barefoot sculptor with an Old Testament beard

hammering at large rocks. He was creating a homage to Homer
Breakfast at Mediterraneo.
Opposite, a Kastellorizo villager
Pink Floyd, who wrote a Grammy-nominated song called

Castellorizon and put it on the album On an Island.
If people bestir themselves they take sea taxis to Agio
Georgios, a swimming place with a taverna, or to Ro, where an
old woman waved a ag at each passing Greek ship until she
died, or above all to the Blue Cave in the south-east part of the
island. It has an aperture like an eye bisected by the waterline.
You have to lie down in the boat to pass through, then you have
the otherworldly experience of a dense and thrilling blueness
in a cathedral-like sea cave with stalactites and twisting columns
of rock. The huge boulders 23 metres down on the seabed seem
close enough to touch. To swim there is how youd imagine it
would feel like to oat in space.
The village might have felt constricting after a few days had
I not begun to take long, early-evening walks, the rst up 400
white-painted steps that rise, sometimes precipitously, up a cliff
behind the village and leave you on a plateau with purple
owers, a couple of unexpected grain elds, goats both wild and
with tinkling bells and an abandoned monastery (currently being
restored). You feel suddenly delivered into the wild, and open
and raw from the compactness and gentility of the village, with
rising smells of herbs, caressing breezes and a gold light making
the sea and distant islands seem more spirit than matter. Id
heard of another walk out to the Church of Agios Stefanos,
solitary on the northern headland. But before I nally found it,
I took a wrong turn behind the Mediterraneo and came across
a sculptor in bare feet and shorts with an Old Testament beard,
squatting down and hammering at some large rocks embedded
in a rise of land. His name was Alesio, he said; he lived in a tent
and was sculpting his own homage to Homer, one rock for each
book, for himself and anyone else who cared to look. Hed once
sculpted in New Mexico too, he said. He began again to hammer.
I couldnt recall ever having had such an encounter. I thought
he wouldnt blend in so easily in Antwerp, but then I saw him
walking into town one night with long strides, creased trousers
and a silk shirt, like a boulevardier.
Before I left, I asked Marie Rivalant what it was about
Kastellorizo that had taken her from Paris. It wasnt the
buildings. The neoclassical doesnt appeal to me. Nor even the
people, though I admire the piratical nature you nd in some of
them. Theres my husband, of course, but if you ask me what
drew me in the beginning, I would say its due to the drama of
being at the end of Europe, the amphitheatre of the harbour
facing the balcony of the Turkish coast, the interplay of sea and
light and land in the archipelago. Its very beautiful. After 30
years, its still fresh, still exciting.
Laid-back and low-key in Kastellorizo
MAP: MARIKO JESSE
WHERE TO STAY
The nest room for rent on
Kastellorizo is the suite at
Mediterraneo (+30 22 4604 9007;
www.mediterraneo-megisti.com;
doubles from about 60). Its
natural and spacious, with
sculptures and a large drawing
inspired by TS Eliot, and you can
dive into the sea from your terrace.
The other less expensive rooms
have a kind of citrus freshness to
them. If you want to cater for
yourself three-bedroom Casa

Marina and two-bedroom Villa Zoi
can be rented through the hotel
(each costs about 205 per night).
Karnayo (+30 22 4604 9266;
info@karnayo.gr; from about 35
per night) is a homely apartment
with wooden oors in a restored
townhouse back from the harbour.
WHERE TO EAT
Some of the islands shermen
own restaurants, and what
they dont use of their catch

themselves they sell to other
chefs. I had delicate, fresh, lightly
grilled swordsh and red snapper
at Lazarakis (+30 22 4604 9370)
by the bougainvillaea at the centre
of the harbour. It was brought to
the table by Marie Rivalants
husband Yrgos. The Olive
Garden (+30 22 4604 9109), by
the tourist office, has a peaceful
atmosphere away from the
harbour-front traffic. The owner
of Old Time (no phone) made

a delicious octopus stew and
was planning to roast a goat for
12 hours on the following
Sunday, if one could be caught
the day before.
GETTING THERE
Thomas Cook (www.ythomas
cook.com) ies to Rhodes from
several UK airports. Ferries run
to Kastellorizo from Rhodes but
schedules change seasonally.
103
104
workers. They left abruptly at 2pm the day

I was there, so for half an hour I had the
place to myself, until visitors began arriving
for tastings and tours in the afternoon.
Chteau de Flaugergues is a striking
example of Montpellier as a tale of two
cities: the historic offset by the hectically
expanding new. To this intriguing mix
add a, literally, hot location. Glorying
in palm trees and sunshine (locals claim
there are 300 sunny days a year here),
Montpellier is a hop and a skip from
the sea. Yet it is a curiously underplayed
Mediterranean destination, failing to
register much on the tourist radar because
he comte threw his arms
wide open, gesturing across the
estate his chteaus neatly
clipped parterres around us, its
exuberant gardens behind, and
the burgeoning rows of vines
beyond. This is wonderfully
productive land, he enthused.
And he urged me to taste the
resulting wine, especially the intense reds.
It was just the sort of epicurean exchange
youd want to have with the proprietor of
a vineyard in the sunny South of France.
Yet there was a quirky twist to the
bucolic scene: Chteau de Flaugergues,
complete with gracious, 18th-century
mansion and 30 hectares of wineland,
is just outside the centre of one of

Europes most dynamic cities.
In old-new Montpellier the sense of
energy is palpable. Half the population
(of about 260,000) is under 35; theres an
amazing array of cutting-edge architecture,
with more in the making; and it is
one of Frances fastest-growing urban
centres. In fact, it is only over the past
decade-and-a-bit that the citys IT
district has expanded to engulf Chteau
de Flaugergues and its vineyards.
A chic lunch restaurant opened here a
couple of years ago, run by the Comtes
son and daughter-in-law, Pierre and Marie
de Colbert. By 12.30pm on weekdays,
it is crowded with sharp-suited ofce
it lies on the less fashionable side of the

southern French coast. Which is all to the
good: even in high summer the crowds
are relatively thin, and while the city cant
vie with the likes of Nice or St Tropez for
glamour, nor does it charge their prices.
The initial attraction of Montpellier is
its medieval heart, a captivating tangle of
lanes and car-defying passageways, and
Above, from left: Villa Sarnelly, a house to rent at Domaine de Verchant; a starter of rolled kohlrabi and mackerel at Pastis Restaurant in Montpellier.
Opposite, the Jardin des Plantes; dining room at Villa Sarnelly. Previous pages: Saint-Pierre cathedral; the shop at Jean Nouvels RBC Design Center
106
with its mellow, honey-coloured stone it

struck me as oddly reminiscent of Oxford
with a better climate. Montpelliers old
town also has the edge over Oxford in
terms of verve and consistent prettiness.
Its streets are lined with the superbly
stylish windows of small boutiques; its
leafy little squares buzz with caf life. In
some respects this is an upstart place that
has never really shaken off its newcomer
status: Nmes, Bziers and Narbonne,
the other sizeable towns near the coast
in Languedoc-Roussillon, date back to
Roman times and earlier; Montpellier was
developed in the late 10th century.
Set on the River Lez, which allowed
easy access to the sea, it rapidly grew into
a major trading centre, and continued to
prosper. Fast-forward to the 16th century
and Montpellier became a stronghold of
the Huguenots, and subsequently suffered
in the onslaught of Frances religious wars.
Yet the destruction resulted in a swathe
of rebuilding, and the city acquired some
seriously splendid architecture in the 17th
and 18th centuries. The medieval street plan
remained largely unaltered, but squares
opened up in place of some of the churches;
intrinsically French htels particuliers,
resplendent with wrought iron and elaborate
stairways, were developed from old
courtyard houses; and the city even built
its own little Arc de Triomphe to glorify
(and mollify) Louis XIV.
The net result is one of those absorbing
places where you spend hours simply
wandering. You twist down tiny alleys.
You blithely enter shops and restaurants
to look at the medieval vaulting of the
ceilings (at super-sleek De la Luce on rue
Saint-Cme, say, or Burger & Blanquette
on rue Rosset). You make it a sort of
Above, a sitting room at Baudon de Mauny. Below, from left: the faade of the citys Muse des Arts Dcoratifs; the Trinque Fougasse OSud wine bar
108
treasure hunt to see into the courtyards of

elegant houses: parts of Htel de Varennes,
with its medieval passageways, and the
beautiful Htel des Trsoriers de la Bourse,
with box-hedged garden and amboyant
stonework, are open to the public on
weekdays. I also spent a good quarter of
an hour strolling rue du Cannau, staring
up at stone faces on grand doorways and
stealing a look inside the spectacular
courtyard of Htel de Beaulac when the
gate was opened by an employee of the
architects ofce there. In this old town
of so many half-hidden sites, shameless
snooping becomes compulsive. On rue
Jean-Jacques Rousseau, I gazed into
LAtelier du Livre, where hand-printed
books were taking shape. At Place SainteAnne I peered through the window of
a violin-makers workshop (there are 12
luthiers working in the city, I later learnt).
An unusually wet day provided an
opportunity to explore the museums.
Three of them are exceptional. Revamped
in 2007, the Muse Fabre developed from
a donation by artist Franois-Xavier
Fabre in the wine-boom years of the
early 19th century. I browsed rooms of
Flemish and French art Rubens, Teniers,
palace, and its church was transformed

into the citys cathedral. It was after the
Revolution that the medical faculty,
dating from the 12th century, took over
the property. With some ourish, too.
A large botanical garden for medicinal
plants was established, and today the
Jardin des Plantes is a deeply tranquil
place, still run by the university, open
to the public in the afternoons and
containing some 2,500 species.
I had based myself at Montpelliers
gastronomic garden. Le Jardin des Sens
is quite some restaurant with rooms.
Its contemporary-chic accommodation
(mahogany oors, subtle lighting and
funky wardrobes in the 15 bedrooms,
and a private rooftop pool with the
biggest suite) is generous, yet very much
second ddle to the food. Jacques and
Laurent Pourcel, twin sons of a local
wine producer, were just 24 when they
opened their restaurant in 1988 and
began to transform the food landscape
of the city. They now have two other
restaurants in Montpellier (Insens and
Compagnie des Comptoirs) as well as
numerous outlets in France, Japan, China,
Thailand and Singapore. Michelin-starred
David, Delacroix then moved on to the

museums most prized works: paintings
by Montpellier-born Frdric Bazille, the
Impressionist artist who died tragically
young; and the abstract art of Pierre
Soulages, who in 2005 donated more than
20 of his canvases, mostly bold studies in
black that become strangely mesmerising
as you gaze at them. Just down the road, at
Htel Sabatier dEspeyran, the Muse des
Arts Dcoratifs opened in 2010, the rst
oor dedicated to an amazing assortment
of bling furniture from the 1800s, the
storey above showcasing a contrastingly
rened display of neoclassical decor.
Most remarkable of all, though, is the
Muse Atger, with its wonderful collection
of drawings by Fragonard, Watteau,
Tiepolo and others. Its a semi-secret place,
open only a few afternoons a week and
tucked away in the universitys glorious
school of medicine. Any trip to Montpellier
should include a visit here. Its the oldest
medical school in operation in France and
is set in a former monastery. In the 16th
century the building became the bishops
Le Jardin des Sens remains their agship,

and theyre here most nights overseeing
the creation of their subtly spiced dishes.
Surrounded by greenery, the tiered, glasssided dining room felt like a theatre as
I marvelled at the procession of exquisite
dishes. The amuse-bouches alone looked
like tiny works of art (seafood millefeuille;
beetroot pure in shot glasses; coronets of
courgette mousse) and tasted terric once
Id plucked up the courage to eat them.
I moved on to spend two nights at a
sumptuous old-town hotel. Baudon de
Mauny is an 18th-century mansion that
opened as a maison dhtes in 2008. Its
the ancestral home of Alain de Bordas,
whose wife Nathalie designed the interiors,
combining ultra-modern styling with
impeccable restoration. Some of the
bedrooms are adorned with great swirls
of plasterwork; others are minimalist.
Gilt mirrors hang above contemporary
leather chairs. The breakfast room is an
eye-poppingly chic space created out of
what was once a dark courtyard. The
hotel tends to get booked up by visiting
Right, from top: a bedroom at Baudon de Mauny; mignardises (mini pastries) at Le Jardin des
Sens, the Pourcel twins agship restaurant; a caf table on Place de la Comdie
Above, the open courtyard in the middle of the Htel de Ville designed by Jean Nouvel and Franois Fonts, which opened in 2011. Below, a view of
Place de la Comdie from the east. Opposite, Zaha Hadids Pierresvives building, home to a multimedia library, an archive and government offices
architects, Alain told me. Indeed, Baudon

de Mauny has hosted Jean Nouvel, the
man behind several projects in the city;
Massimiliano Fuksas, whose school of
hotel management in the Millnaire
district opened in 2012; and Zaha Hadid,
who designed the citys Pierresvives
sports-and-library building.
Montpellier started to get a reputation
for bold new architecture in the late 1970s,
when the Antigone neighbourhood was
built on the site of former barracks near
the old town. Devised to look like a model
Renaissance city, its a monumental mix
and also because of the counterbalancing

central features of the neighbourhood.
A lake is fringed with bars and cafs,
and the citys Htel de Ville shimmers
beside a smaller pool of water. Designed
by Jean Nouvel and Franois Fonts and
opened in 2011, this radically eco-friendly
building looks from some angles like a
big blue cube, while from others the colour
subtly shifts to green and the shape changes
into a square Arc de Triomphe, intended
to echo the one in the old town.
A few streets from here, on avenue
Raymond Dugrand, is another Jean
shape: a spa and wellness complex

designed by Philippe Starck.
The best way to see the city changing
shape is to take a tram ride. Trams
were reintroduced here in 2000, and
two new lines were opened in 2012.
Smart, designer trams they are, too,
with exterior styling by a graduate of
the citys art school, Christian Lacroix.
On my nal morning in Montpellier,
I caught the Lacroix blue tram adorned
with jewelled sea creatures and headed
towards the coast, 11km away. It was a trip
that started just outside the old town, took
of ofces and apartments by the Catalan

architect Ricardo Boll. Moving beyond
the old town to explore the brave new city,
I found the scale of Antigone disturbing,
feeling like an ant as I walked past its huge
pilasters and through its gigantic arches.
I continued further east, where ongoing
development in the Port Marianne area
seems a lot more human. Thats partly
because of the variety of architectural
styles, partly because the apartment blocks
have been designed to be comfortably
lived in rather than make a statement,
Nouvel building. The RBC Design

Center is a cool, steel-and-glass structure
with a four-oor atrium and various
showrooms displaying state-of-the-art
furnishings. In another old-town echo,
this design-for-living haven is like a
contemporary take on the Muse des
Arts Dcoratifs. I had a browse in
the bookshop, sank into several chairs,
marvelled at the vast range of lighting
products on show, then stood on the
terrace looking out over a park where
Montpelliers next big project is taking
me past Antigone, offered great views of

the Htel de Ville and wove through
Port Marianne alongside cranes at work.
After clanking across a semi-agricultural
landscape of vineyards interspersed with
hypermarkets, we nearly reached the sea.
The line does not yet extend as far as the
shore, so you do the last leg by bus. As I got
off at a at beach, clouds began to roll in.
A disappointment? Well, perhaps but I
had the happy prospect of another designer
tram-ride back through Montpelliers
grand architectural spread.
Above, from left: a violin-makers workshop in rue du Bayle; pre-dessert at Le Jardin des Sens, including a glass of raspberry granita with peach and
caramel, crunchy milk chocolate with lemon, and white-chocolate lollipops with lychee, strawberry and rose. Opposite, Pastis Restaurant
112
Clockwise from above: quirky furnishings in the rst-oor corridor at Le Jardin des Sens hotel; the sitting room of a suite at Domaine de Verchant, a hotel
and wine estate in the countryside just outside Montpellier; the Richier Atrium at Muse Fabre; a view into a violin-makers workshop in Htel Magnol
Folia
Functional and stylish,
Folia is in a converted wine
barn at the 18th-century
Chteau de Flaugergues.
Its hugely popular and a
bit tight on space, so noise
tends to crescendo around
1pm. The food is a treat,
with a carefully considered
menu based on marketfresh produce (artichoke
mousseline; sauted lamb
with leeks and spinach); and
of course, its all particularly
good when paired with the
estates wines. +33 4 99
52 66 35; www.augergues.
com. About 40 for two
WHERE TO DRINK
LAtelier
An odd combination,
but intriguingly it works:
a wine bar (with extensive
Languedoc range) plus
an art gallery and orist.
+33 4 67 57 47 23; www.
latelier-jeaneuriste.fr
MAP: GARY VENN
WHERE TO STAY
Le Jardin des Sens
Bruno Borrione, a frequent
collaborator with Philippe
Starck, created the
interiors here: theatrically
designed public areas
downstairs, with elaborate
chandeliers and bright
swathes of curtains in
the lounge; abstract
paintings and cool little
sculptures on the landings
(the Pourcel brothers
are mad-keen collectors
of contemporary art);
and 15 bedrooms whose
pared-down aesthetic
is given a lift by retro
furniture and splashes of
red, purple or lime green.
+33 4 99 58 38 38; www.
jardindessens.com. Doubles
from about 125
Baudon de Mauny
Once you step through the
unassuming gateway of
this 18th-century building,
Montpelliers street noises
fade. Youre in the quiet
courtyard of a townhouse
where time and dimension
are cleverly conated:

its historic yet modern,
palatial yet intimate. Each
of the eight bedrooms
has its own distinctive
style, from an enormous
boudoir with amboyantly
decorated ceiling to a
monastically minimalist
retreat. +33 4 67 02
21 77; www.baudon
demauny.com. Doubles
from about 135
Domaine de Verchant
Provence-style farmhouse
meets boutique hotel
with vineyard attached.
This charming, 26-room
country retreat is about
15 minutes drive northeast of Montpellier. Tall
windows with weathered
shutters frame strikingly
stripy vine-views over the
estate. There are huge
bathrooms and balconies,
a great spa and dreamy
pool, and a restaurant
run by the Pourcel twins.
+33 4 67 07 27 00; www.
domainedeverchant.com.
WHERE TO EAT
Le Jardin des Sens
An amazing assault on the
senses. First theres the
visual drama of the dining
room, with glass walls
opening onto a Japanese
garden. Then theres
the food: beautifully
balanced menus range
from Sens & Dcouverte,
eight courses that might
include rolled lobster with
peas and radish, to the
three-course Languedoc
menu, with dishes such
as roast pigeon breast,
sweet beets and parsnip
chips. See Where to stay.
Menus from about 40
Pastis Restaurant
Heres a real nd, much
loved locally. Seating no
more than 20 (so getting
a table can be a bit of a
struggle), this elegant
little bistro has a mystery
menu every evening, based
on whats available in the
market. +33 4 67 66 37 26;
www.pastis-restaurant.com.
About 60 for two
Tamarillos
Philippe Chapon creates
astonishingly pretty dishes
using fruit and edible
owers, from deep-orange
nasturtiums to brightpink sweet peas. Smoked
salmon comes with a
festival of petals, and
scallops are served with
oral borage. +33 4 67
60 06 00; www.tamarillos.
biz. About 90 for two
Mia
The restaurant at the RBC
Design Center in Port
Marianne is full of suitably
sleek furnishings and
clever lighting. The chef
is Pascal Sanchez, who
previously ran the awardwinning Twist by Pierre
Gagnaire at the Mandarin
Oriental Las Vegas. His
modern, organic menu
might include frogs legs
with ginger-chicken
broth, or roasted prawns
with cardamom-scented
pineapple. +33 4 67 73
14 26; www.miarestaurant.fr.
About 80 for two
Trinque Fougasse OSud

This wine bar is one of the
most happening venues
in Port Marianne, offering
tapas-style food and live
music most nights. (Its one
of two Trinque Fougasse
bars, the other being in the
north, on route de Mende.)
+33 4 99 23 27 05; www.
trinquefougasse.com
Caf Latitude
This laid-back caf on
Place de la Canourgue,
one of the citys most
attractive squares, is hung
with bold African art
and has a lovely terrace
fringed with rose bushes.
WHAT TO DOWNLOAD
The tourist office has a
free app in English giving
a guided tour of the citys
contemporary architecture.
www.ot-montpellier.fr
GETTING THERE
EasyJet (www.easyjet.
com) ies to Montpellier
from Luton and Gatwick.
Or you can go by train with
Eurostar (www.eurostar.
com); in Paris, you have to
transfer from the Gare du
Nord to Gare de Lyon.
115
kick back on koh lanta, the colourful thai island that hasnt lost
its low-key groove. free of big hotel names and neon lights, its
a barefoot beauty with a hint of hippy. by issy von simson
PHOTOGRAPHS: MIRJAM BLEEKER
Kantiang beach
on Koh Lanta,
Thailand.
Opposite, Same
Same But
Different bar
117
Its a trek to get to this unspoilt spot. Visitors who end up splashing in the
"'A%+94-!A0-+A0+&4'&'4,4!/4&4*."-4'4(+-
PHOTOGRAPHS: MIRJAM BLEEKER; CHRIS WISE
Clockwise from this picture: a

beach hut on Koh Lanta; a
restaurant at Klong Nin
beach; a watersports shop;
Lanta Roundhouse beach
bungalow; moped fuel;
a birdcage on the island.
Opposite, the pool at Pimalai
o one in bangkok will believe you are going to Koh

Lanta. Oooh, taxi drivers will shake their heads,
why you wanna go there for? Hotel doormen will
doff their caps and smile. Have good time Samui. Porters on
the shiny concourse at Suvarnabhumi Airport will wink. You go
party Phuket? At Krabi Airport, still a long way from the nal
destination, youre likely to be the only farangs taking the road
south rather than west to the limestone-cragged postcard
beaches of Railay and Ao Nang. Onwards youll trundle down
dual carriageways, past trucks piled high with spiky pineapples
and knobbly jackfruit, onto car ferries heaving, lumbering,
diesel-choking car ferries. Then the island itself, a single-track
road, driving through low, shrubby palm groves, getting further
and further away from the noise and the bright lights with every
twist and curve. And that, there, is precisely the point.
Its not as if Lanta is some hidden secret paradise, an
untouched spot where no one but the most intrepid backpacker
has ever set foot. In fact, its quite big. Lanta Yai, the main island
(there are more than 50 marine-park-protected little ones in the

archipelago), is 30km from top to bottom, with a sandy fringe
all along the west coast, a jungly spine down its middle and
dramatic rockery to the east. But it is, in the grand scheme of
Thai islands, deliciously unspoilt. And there are reasons for this.
Firstly, its a trek to get here. Krabi only has international ights
from Singapore and Kuala Lumpur. Hong Kong is on the cards,
but still. Your average journey looks like this: long-haul ight,
short-haul ight, taxi, car ferries (plural), more taxiing, perhaps
a speedboat straight to the sand in high season. So those visitors
who do nally end up splashing in the gin-clear, bath-waterwarm Andaman Sea have made quite an effort. Secondly, this
southern part of Thailand is mostly Muslim, which means a
culture that develops slowly, methodically, with thought and
care (overt displays of wealth and power are not the done
thing). Consequently, Lanta has a very mellow, softly tuned vibe.
Its a low-rise, go-slow kind of place, the rustle of the breeze
through the rubber-tree plantations interrupted only by a
119
on the island. Sri Lanta, further down the coast, is a little more
local, with layers of teak and rattan in its pitched-roofed cottages.
Then theres Layana, somewhere between the two geographically
and the jazziest place to bed down on this stretch. Its right on
a wide and deserted beach, with blonde sand gently sloping into
the palest blue water. The sunbeds have buzzers to press for
service, and there are funny grey beanbags that look like they
belong in a teenage boys bedroom and are actually deeply
comfy for a mid-afternoon snooze. Theres also a pool: an elegant,
sleek oblong one pointing straight out to sea. No fountains, no
fuss, no chlorine. Just salt water thats hydrolysed to the same
level as human tears. Theres a restaurant whipping up the
freshest sesame-seed-encrusted seared tuna with ery mango
salsa. Rooms are easy-breezy, effortless, with wide beds, sunken
baths and outdoor showers beloved by the many returning guests.
And last year saw a smart refurb, with a new spa and top-notch
two-bedroom villa called La Maison, sharpening the look.
eyond these hotel hotspots are the kind of beach bars

you really do want to nd in Thailand, with driftwood,
palm fronds, bamboo chairs and tables dotted along the
sand. Kantiang beach has two gems: Same Same But
Different for drinks as the sun slips down and the Why Not bar
for later on. There are full-moon parties (the one at Mong Bar
promises happy shakes, bang lassi and electro-trance) but there
are also half-moon parties, new-moon parties, beginning-of-season
parties, end-of-season parties, mid-season parties, Tuesday-night
parties, but all on the smallest scale. Here on Koh Lanta theyre
not mass-market raves; its just an excuse to string up the starshaped paper lanterns and call in a local band that does great
renditions of Nirvana and Oasis. The boys behind the bar wear
skinny jeans and have shiny black hair down to their elbows,
chunky silver rings studded with turquoise, a number of piercings
and tattoos, at least two, because one of them runs the ink parlour
up the road by day. They serve Sang Som buckets: rum, M-151
120
wrought-iron birdcages swing in

the trees. the more you have, the
richer you are - thats as status
(',"(.,4,4-!",4)%4 -,4
(similar to Red Bull), Coca-Cola, a good squeeze of lime, loads
of ice and a stful of straws for 300 baht. This is the scene. It
hasnt changed for 15 years even the music is still the same.
The only problem with Sang Som buckets is the hangover the
next day, which is probably less from alcohol and more from a
sugar overdose. So its best to avoid them if you have any urge
to get out and get underwater. Theres fantastic diving here,
incredible visibility, underwater pinnacles, coral outcrops and
masses of marine life. Ko Haa, which is an hour and a half out, is
a collapsed volcanic island with steep drop-offs to the side and
more than a dozen dive sites, caverns and chambers where youll
see turtles, octopus and pointy-nosed barracuda. Dedicated
divers wont blanche at the two-hour boat ride to even more
impressive Hin Daeng, the red rock, a coral-rich playground
for spotting manta ray and maybe even a whale shark. And you
dont have to arrange a dive through your hotel: there are dive
PHOTOGRAPHS: ALAMY; MIRJAM BLEEKER; CHRIS WISE
muezzin call to prayer. In four or ve years it may be on the

turn but for now, its just hunky-dory.
Everyone has a different explanation about the origins of the
islands name. Some say their Malay ancestors called it Pulau Satak,
meaning long-beach island, which would make perfect sense. Others
lean towards the Javanese translation of Lanta a sh grill. Either
way, it has its roots in beaches and shes, so everyones happy.
The Muslim community is joined in this juicy melting pot by a
hefty chunk of Thai Chinese (it was a stop-off point between the
trading posts of Phuket and Penang) and the once-nomadic sea
gypsies, the Urak Lawoi. Everyone might dance to a slightly
different beat, but the general rhythm of Lanta is a groovy one.
In the 1980s the rst rucksack-carrying travellers trickled over
from the mainland, a few beach huts sprang up and a little scene
sparked off. What visitors there were (mostly Scandinavians and
Germans) cruised around on junkyard mopeds, ate king prawns the
size of lobsters at roadside shacks and knocked back not-quitechilled Singha beer by lantern light. It certainly was unplugged;
the island was only hooked up to mains electricity in 1996.
Now the voltage is regular and the lodgings are lovelier.
Although if you want to crash out in a basic sandy shack, you still
can (check out Fishermans Cottage or Lanta Roundhouse). But a
steady stream of more grown-up west-coast boltholes have emerged
in the past 10 years. Theres Costa Lanta, an overgrown garden
punctuated with fabulous polished-concrete minimalist havens. By
far the edgiest design-wise, its about as Espresso Martini as it gets
Clockwise from this picture:

the beach in front of
Pimalai; Hammock House;
Kantiang village; colourful
Koh Lanta signs; Shanti
Shanti restaurant in the
Old Town; the barman at
Why Not; Layanas pool;
after dark in Why Not; Thai
basil. Opposite, a temple
if you want to crash out in a

basic sandy shack, you still can.
but a steady stream of more
grown-up boltholes have emerged
along the west coast
MAP: JANE WEBSTER PHOTOGRAPHS: MIRJAM BLEEKER; HEIDGER MARX PHOTOGRAPHY
A pool villa at Pimalai

and, right, Same Same
But Different bar,
Kantiang Bay. Opposite,
the beach bar at Layana
shops in almost every village, which tend to be much cheaper

and just as good. If scuba isnt your thing, theres brilliant shing,
amazing snorkelling, sea kayaking to the limestone caves at
Koh Talabeng and longtail boat trips to the gnarled mangroves
around Koh Klang and Koh Lanta Noi.
But to really understand the island, you need to forget the
obvious attractions the sea, the sand and explore a bit. Hire
a moped and head away from the west coast, away from the
beaches, through the tangled green interior and out east. Buzz
past houses with wrought-iron birdcages swinging between the
trees (the more you have, the richer you are thats as status
conscious as this place gets), past lopsided three-wheelers heavy
with family members, over the hump of the island and down the
other side. From the top there are Jurassic Park-like views, out
across the water to Lantas many uninhabited islets. And there at
the bottom of the hill is the Old Town, a time warp of a place, a
lm set of shuttered century-old teak houses on stilts. There are a
few lovely bars, Mango House, Apsara, Caoutchouc, a shop that
just sells hammocks (its called Hammock House, you cant miss
it), a mynah bird at the Fresh restaurant that squawks hello
and good morning, whatever the time of day, a red-and-gold
Chinese temple and some kooky dwellings to stay in. There are
two over-water rooms at Lanta Pole Houses and three at Mango
House. And theres none of that Pia Colada dime-a-dozen
sunset feel. Here, facing east, its strong coffee and a blast of pink
dawn with the high tide lapping beneath your oorboards.
For something more unashamedly comfortable, theres no
beating Pimalai. Pimalai is the kingpin. But it is charming
too. Theres no marble, no glitz, no razzmatazz. Its big, with

more than 100 rooms, but so artfully designed and spread out
that it doesnt feel it. Gorgeous pool villas are tucked between
cashew trees on the hilltop; regular suites trickle towards a
powdery swathe of beach. To the left and behind, rugged
monkey-lled forest hugs the curve of the bay. The sea is the
scene-stealer here. There are no jet-skis, no speedboats, just the
swoosh of the waves along the half-mile stretch of shore. Five
cabanas and a few rows of parasoled sunbeds are populated by
Euro couples: French, Dutch, German, Italian, boys with Ray-Bans,
girls in the tiniest black bikinis and panama hats. Families with
children stay around the lower pool. If youre lucky youll see
elephants wander down with their mahouts for a bath. More
likely, though, is the sight of a London banker heading out to sea
in a Hobie Cat only to be rescued by hotel staff an hour later.
Then theres the spa. Such a pretty spa, tumbling down the
hill, with rushing water, pools of koi carp, thatched salas and
therapists who are thrillingly mean: tiny Thai girls who crunch
and knead with no mercy. It is a simple set-up, with facials and
massages and no promise of a life-changing, time-altering
treatment, just serious therapies to make you feel better. Only
somewhere like this is the plinky-plonky music pertinent,
the ginger tea appropriate, the foot bath traditional, the stone
bowls of concentric pink and white owers local.
At night, the hotel is lantern-lit. The cicadas roar. Frogs come
out, croaking and lolloping by the pools. Inside your room the
look is low-key, with dark woods and smooth stone oors,
cloud-like beds, oor-to-ceiling windows and curtains made from
slices of bamboo. Its chic, but not groundbreaking. But you are
not here for that. If you wanted a blast, a buzz, youd be on
Phuket, or Samui. But Pimalai, much like Koh Lanta itself,
is in a different zone. Its not cutting-edge. Its not cool. Its at ease
in its own skin. People come here over and over again because
they know its not going to change. Not just yet, anyway.
Cleveland Collection (+44 20 7843 3531; www.clevelandcollection.

co.uk) offers an eight-night trip from 1,590 per person, staying four
nights at Pimalai and four nights at Layana, including ights, transfers
and breakfast. Costa Lanta (www.costalanta.com); doubles from about
65. Sri Lanta (www.srilanta.com); doubles from about 45
123
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IN BRITAIN & IRELAND
The Bureau menswear shop, Belfast.

Opposite, a sales assistant at Envoy
hat do you call a person

from Belfast? Its a serious
question. Glaswegians,
Brummies and Mancunians
know who they are. Ask locals and
suggestions fall back, as Belfast traditionally
has done, on inty humour (Belshafters,
Belfastards), but this does not disguise the
humming optimism you can feel on the
streets as the city heaves off its troubled
past. Belfast was always a great place to
come from. Following a decade of energetic
and sensitive regeneration, its a great place
to go. A new clutch of high-end hotels and
restaurants make it feel worthy of inclusion
on the European city-break trail. Nightlife,
diverse and distinctive, has returned to the
town centre where, not so long ago, security
gates clanged shut at dusk. There are smart
shops where schoolgirls in hitched-up skirts
laugh out loud at the price of handbags and
nobody shoos them away. But its not the
shining-glass towers now fronting the
River Lagan, nor the sudden availability of
ciabatta, that have transformed Belfast;
its the shift in mindset, a determination
to have a good time, which is aeons away
from the city that once chained up
playground swings on a Sunday.
And its the spirit of the people that
most delights visitors to Belfast. Craic here
is not advertised on pub slates. Belfast
cant be bothered with the easy, charming
blather of the Irish South. Nor - unless you
stray badly off-piste will you encounter
the gantry rhetoric of bowler-hatted
Unionists. But there is, in Titanic Town, a
solid women-and-children-rst decency
which erupts, with or without a drink, into
periodic bouts of unhinged hilarity. This
town of hard grafters knows how to party.
Keep er lit!, an opaque and universal
exhortation to keep the fun going, is now
the unofficial motto of the city.
Sectarian faultlines that carved the
heart of Belfast can still be traced, but theyre
softened, blood-enmity parlayed into
cultural diversity. The historic lineaments
have been redened, creating quarters: the
Cathedral Quarter, the Titanic Quarter,
the Gaeltacht Quarter, where the past is not
something to be feared. For some of us, the
burgeoning industry of Berlin-style Troubles
tourism stirs mixed emotions the Peace
still feels so recent, so fragile but maybe
thats just the nervous memory of the
returner. For the rst time since its industrial
heyday, more people are coming to live in
the city than are leaving it. And for those
of us who struck out across the water?
Belfast still feels like home. Only better.
OLD-WORLD
WHERE OPULENCE
TO STAY A converted Victorian
bank in the heart of the
trendy Cathedral Quarter, The Merchant
Hotel is a monument to Mammon, gilded
and tasselled within an inch of its life.
And its wildly popular with Belfasts new
generation of lotus-eaters. Champagne
nail bar, rooftop hot tub, Christian
Louboutin concession: the Merchant
shrieks in the face of Presbyterian austerity.
Rooms in the Deco-inspired new wing
have a more restful aesthetic (Eileen
Gray chairs, Tiffany-blue bathrooms)
than the full-on Victoriana of the original
building. High tea, taken in the cherubencrusted Great Room, goes the extra mile,
with home-made banana bread, almond
cake and cranberry loaf augmenting the

scone course. In the cocktail bar, the
punch-bowl tradition has been revived,
with noisy friends ladling from vats the
size of a baby bath. 16 Skipper Street (+44
28 9023 4888; www.themerchanthotel.com).
Doubles from 140
MODERN MOVER
AND SHAKER
Monochrome marble and contemporary
Italian furnishings set the tone for The
Fitzwilliam Hotel. This sleek new highrise, slotted in beside the Edwardian
Grand Opera House, looks like a runaway
from the Milan catwalk come to visit her
overfed and ebullient Irish cousin. The
penthouse suite offers butler service and
fabulous views of the city for 1,500 a
Clockwise from left: a display at Avoca; The

Fitzwilliam Hotel penthouse; Home restaurant;
a couple at Established Coffee; a bedroom in
The Fitzwilliam; a barista at Established; a dish
of blue cheese and bresaola at OX; the MAC
LEARN FROM A PRO

Pristine napery (as bets a former linen
mill), white walls and one excellent
landscape painting are the backdrop for
Niall McKennas appreciation of local
colours and quality at James Street South.
Uncluttered menus bring out the avours
of game (wood pigeon with beetroot and
orange; venison with celeriac and walnuts),
and vegetables (fricassee of parsnip) are
good enough to stand alone as main courses.
Upstairs theres a cookery school offering
single-issue lessons in which you master
the perfect tart, stew or bread etc. 21 James
Street South (+44 28 9043 4310; www.
jamesstreetsouth.co.uk). About 60 for two
FAMILY FAVOURITE
Tucked into the corner of the elegant,
neoclassical St Annes Square in
the Cathedral Quarter, The Potted
Hen offers perfectly judged if pricey
bistro food in a big, bright and buzzy
room. Visitors are given the same warm
attention as regulars, and on Sundays
children eat for free. Edward Street (+44
28 9023 4554; www.thepottedhen.co.uk).
About 45 for two
THERES NO PLACE LIKE
night. The less plush standard rooms are

WHERE CATCH IT IF
big and comfortable. Great Victoria Street TO EAT & YOU CAN
(+44 28 9044 2080; www.tzwilliamhotel
DRINK A collaboration between
local sherman Bob
belfast.com). Doubles from 120
McCoubrey and chef Andy Rea, Mourne
IN THE HEART OF THE ACTION
Seafood Bar has cut out the middleman,
Right behind the City Hall, Ten Square
delivering rst-class produce and cooking
has 22 boutique rooms (for boutique
at reasonable prices. Rea knows when to
read slightly bonkers styling, in which
let his ingredients speak for themselves
wallpaper and Lichtensteiny artworks
(oysters are served plain or with shredded
abound). Theres high-spec comfort and
ginger) and when to mix things up a
a high reputation, locally, for friendly
little (gurnard, scallops, crab claws and
service. The downside of an unbeatably
fennel undergo a near-alchemical process
central location is expensive and limited
in his signature casserole). You would
valet parking: youd be better off in the
be lucky to nab a dinner reservation,
multi-storey on nearby Dublin Road.
but lunches are rst-come-rst-served.
10 Donegal Square South (+44 28
3436 Bank Street (+44 28 9024 8544;
9024 1001; www.tensquare.co.uk).
www.mourneseafood.com). About
Doubles from 105
40 for two
A highly praised pop-up gone permanent,

Home Restaurant delivers fresh, modern
avours at speed. Its skinny dinners
(sea bream with fennel, tomato and
butterbeans) are especially popular
among ladies who lunch. 22 Wellington
Place (+44 28 9023 4946; www.home
popup.com). About 40 for two
NEW ON THE SCENE

In an airy waterfront space beside the large
metal sculpture known locally as the
thing with the ring, OX has been hauling
in awards since it opened last year. With
a daytime menu from which pretty starters
and desserts cost just 3 (shellsh bisque;
chocolate and blood-orange millefeuille),
and mains 10 (sea trout with salsify), its
the most delicious, light-on-your-pocket
lunch in town. 1 Oxford Street (+44 28 9031
4121; www.oxbelfast.com). About 30 for two
BOHO BRUNCH
Behind its Art Nouveau shop front,
Harlem has vintage china, shelves
bursting with busts, bottles and books,

and oor-to-ceiling paintings. During the
week the caf is busy with ofce escapees,
but it comes into its own at weekends when
brunch can slide into a cream tea (with
optional Cuban cigar just for the hell of it).
34 Bedford Street (+44 28 9024 4860; www.
harlembelfast.com). About 20 for two
a world-class showcase for its many

talents. A fast rolling programme of
theatre, dance, music and art with a high
proportion of free events has shifted the
cultural centre to the Cathedral Quarter.
The Waterfront Hall (www.waterfront.
co.uk) hosts international opera, ballet
and concerts. And the excellent Lyric
Theatre (www.lyrictheatre.co.uk) has
championed Irish writers such as Seamus
Heaney, Brian Friel and Conor McPherson
since 1951. The Falls Road, once a
notorious no-go area, is enjoying a lively
renaissance as the Gaeltacht Quarter,
with a new centre, Cultrlann McAdam
OFiaich (www.culturlann.ie), promoting
Gaelic culture and Irish-language events.
RAISING THE BARISTA

You cant miss Mark Ashbridge, the
29-year-old owner of Established Coffee.
He sports a 10-inch beard of which an
89-year-old would be proud. His slick,
new, glass-walled caf has added specially
brewed shots to the citys growing caffeine
scene. 54 Hill Street (+44 28 9031 9416)
PARTY LIKE ITS 1899

The mother of all Victorian gin palaces,
the Crown Liquor Saloon is a byzantine
riot of glittering mosaics and fantastically
carved mahogany. Fitted out in the era of
Catholic emancipation by moonlighting
church builders from Italy, it is now
owned by the National Trust. 46 Great
Victoria Street (+44 28 9024 3187)
KEEP IT TRADITIONAL
Roughly the same vintage as the Crown,
Robinsons is the opposite of a showcase
saloon. Shoulder your way through crowds
roaring encouragement at footballers on
the big screen to the back room, Fibber
Magees, where there is a peat re, live
trad music that gets wilder as the night
wears on and, eventually, dancing. 38 Great
Victoria Street (www.robinsonsbar.co.uk)
MUSIC AND VERSE

Named after Belfasts socialist revolutionary
poet, The John Hewitt is a good place for
local and global bands (Mumford and
Sons played their rst Irish gig here),
and it hosts thoughtful literary events.
51 Donegall Street (www.thejohnhewitt.com)
There has been
open trading
WHERE on the banks of
TO SHOP the Lagan since
1604 and this
year St Georges Market,
housed in Victorian-brick
and cast-iron arcades
on East Bridge Street,
was named the UKs Best
Large Indoor Market.
From Friday to Sunday,
fresh sh, speciality foods,
antiques and high-quality
local crafts are sold to the
A booth in the Crown Liquor Saloon
WHAT THE WRITING

TO DO ON THE WALL
AND SEE Belfasts dual culture and
political history is proclaimed
on gable-end murals across the city. Images
of Armalite-wielding paramilitaries and
death or glory slogans are shocking to
outside eyes, but the artistry involved in
this grass-roots custom is remarkable. Of
late, the tradition has taken an encouraging
non-sectarian turn. Contemporary
paintings are as likely to feature local
heroes such as George Best and CS Lewis
as hooded gunmen or hunger strikers, and
the Peace Wall on the Falls Road extends
its message to the Spanish Civil War, the
Arab-Israeli conict and the war in Iraq.
The best murals are often found in areas
less visited by tourists, but Belfast Mural
Tours, run in black taxis, give a gripping
account of what it was like to live through
the Troubles on both sides of the political
divide. www.belfastmuraltours.com
ART ABOUT TOWN

The arts have long ourished in Belfast,
but the inauguration in 2012 of The MAC
(www.themaclive.com) has given the city
sound of live jazz and

amenco. For original
souvenirs, check out the
embroidered street plans
of old Belfast by Deborah
Toner (www.deborah
toner.co.uk), worked,
sampler-style, on linen,
or the carry-on-sized oil
paintings of dockers and
spademakers by Mark
Graham (www.mark
grahamneart.com).
Avoca (www.avoca.ie),
in the city centre, is an
eclectic woollen-millturned-gift-shop where

youll nd neon-coloured
mohair rugs and quirky
childrens dressing-up
clothes in satin, as opposed
to sweaty nylon. Follow
your nose to Co Couture
(www.cocouture.co.uk),
something between a
chocolatier and a shebeen,
where acionados gather
in a hidden basement to sip
80-per-cent Venezuelan
hot chocolate and score
PRIDE OF THE SEAS

Belfasts attitude to the Titanic is neatly
summed up on a T-shirt: She was alright
when she left us. The unsinkable ship
that, er, sank was the glory of Belfasts
Harland and Wolff shipyard, built to
hitherto undreamt of standards of
grandeur and craftsmanship. Titanic
Belfast is a bells-and-whistles exhibition
centre, housed in a glinting, quartz-sharp
structure on the original slipway. The
Titanic Experience (unfortunate name,
you might think, given the history) is in
fact realised with great imagination and
sensitivity, charting the rise of Belfast from
its growth in the wake of the industrial
revolution to its early-20th-century heyday
when it led the world in shipbuilding, linen
manufacturing and rope-making. The mix
of hi-tech attractions (theres a surprisingly
exciting ride through a reconstruction
of a naval gantry) and well-curated
documentary keeps adults and children
hanging on in there until the strangely
elegiac IMAX voyage representing the
ships nal hours. 1 Olympic Way (www.
titanicbelfast.com)
Deirdre McCannys latest

creations; you may not
pass a breathalyser test
after trying her Bushmills
Whiskey truffles. Or
head to the boho Queens
Quarter beside the
university, the handsomest
building in Belfast, and
spend more time than
you mean to at No Alibis
(www.noalibis.com), a
bookshop specialising
in crime ction. Envoy
(www.envoyofbelfast.com)
is surely the citys coolest

boutique; friendly owner
Ruth Spence has gained
a loyal and arty following
for clean-lined labels
such as Dries Van Noten,
Lanvin and Bags in
Progress. And its worth
the trek to East Belfast
to nd The Bureau
(www.thebureaubelfast.
com), a menswear shop
strewn with pop-bright
album covers in a lovely
old warehouse.
Aerial view of the

stunning Vlasoff Cay
c
+ g
s
n
r
a i rrier
at
re
re
ef
ba
PRODUCED BY
PROMOTIONS
I N A S S O C I AT I O N W I T H
C A I R N S & G R E A T B A R R I E R R E E F R E G I O N , Q A N T A S A N D W E X A S T R AV E L
ROUTE
Cape Tribulation
Port Douglas
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(this is, after all, the only place in the world where
two World Heritage-listed sites meet) and you have
a truly iconic destination.

NAVIGATOR
Mission Beach
So much to see and do Where to begin? Enter

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hat do you get

when you cross
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Join a luxury boat expedition such
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waterfalls or discovering tiny fish in
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food and wine

Australias national airline Qantas
has won innumerable food and
wine awards over the years and it
isnt difficult to see where it gets its
inspiration. Flush with fresh seafood,
an array of tropical fruits and endless
local produce, the Cairns & Great
Barrier Reef region offers a distinct
flavour of its own. Fuse this with its
unique settings on the deck of a
yacht as you cruise over clear blue
adventure
waters; under a canopy of stars in a

rainforest resort; overlooking a beach
at an al fresco restaurant in Palm
Cove and Port Douglas; or perhaps
even a helicopter ride to a cay for
a Champagne picnic looking out
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With its extraordinarily diverse

array of backdrops ocean,
outback, rainforest, reef setting
the scene, this is the place to get
a whole new perspective on life,
whether gliding through treetops
in glass-bottom gondolas or hotair ballooning over the Atherton
Tablelands, taking in sunrises,
vast landscapes and the wallabies
hopping below. Back down to
earth, theres four-wheel drives in
Cape Tribulation, or bushwalking
with an aboriginal guide at the
Mossman Gorge Centre, listening
to dreamtime stories and learning
about the Kuku Yalanji tribe. For
the ultimate sense of escapism,
its hard to beat the scenic flight
FORAGE FOR FRESH PRODUCE, SUCH AS MANGOES

(WHICH MAKE UNEXPECTEDLY DELICIOUS WINE)
your culinary experience is sure to be
sensational, literally. Alternatively,
do as the indigenous Australians do
on a trip with the Walker Brothers,
members of the Kuku Yalanji tribe
who have lived in this area for tens
of thousands of years, and spear
your own crabs and fish to cook for
yourself. Or forage for fresh produce,
such as mangoes (which make
unexpectedly delicious wine) and
lemon myrtle, and savour the taste
of natural fare that seems somehow
to be all the more flavoursome when
collected by your own hand.
from the Great Barrier Reef to the

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an unforgettable 30-minute flight
along the coast, a short four-wheel
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islands and beaches

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Clockwise from top left:

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Coves Peppers Beach Club & Spa
for total indulgence not least the
sundowners, as the sun sets over
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TRAVEL
AWARDS
PHOTOGRAPH: JENNY ZARINS
2014
Make your vote count at www.cntraveller.co.uk/RTA

Nominate your favourite hotels, spas, countries, islands and more before 1 May and you
could win three nights in Le Bristol, Paris. Results will appear in our October issue and online
THE EXPERTS
This months Family Health Food Books Advice

EDITED BY ISSY VON SIMSON
WHAT YOU WANT

Access to the inside
track on Bhutan
WHO YOU NEED

Tashi Tshering, founder
of Amulet Luxury Travel
When you go to a country as romantic and as
endishly expensive as Bhutan, tucked away in
the eastern Himalayas between India and China,
you want to get it right. And for that, you need this
man. Tshering, from Thimphu, the capital, is the
keyholder to everyone in the know. Hell organise an
itinerary to take you from one smart lodge to the
next (the Aman resorts, or perhaps the COMO
hotels, or the Taj), but he will also intersperse those
Frette-sheeted nights with slices of real Bhutanese
culture. A visit to an astrology school, where parents
go to write the zodiac book for their children, and a
meeting with a head monk for a longevity prayer at
a ninth-century monastery might be followed by a
ery-hot lunch in a local village. (Beware, he says,
we use chilli like a vegetable.) As well as hardcore
trekking and riverside barbecues, Tshering, whos also
personal secretary to the Buddhist spiritual master
Gyalwa Dokhampa, will take care of everything, right
down to sorting out those tricky visas. This kingdom
is still incredibly unspoilt, but it is on the move.
With a handful of Six Senses properties and a Le
Mridien opening in 2015, nows the time to go.
+975 2 335015; www.amuletbhutan.com
THE EXPERTS... FAMILY
CHILDREN IN THE CITY

STOCKHOLM
Rosy-cheeked, bracingly healthy and easy
to get around, the Swedish capital is a fun
escape for super troupers. By Rick Jordan
Hipp! for jewellery
ABBA The Museum
K25 food hall

Sharpen your Dark Age skills in the
courtyard garden at the History Museum
(www.historiska.se). It turns into an affably
lo- Norse village in the summer, with
bread-making, archery and a jousting game ABBA: The Museum (www.abbathe
that involves whacking each other with
museum.com) will embrace you in its
paddles. Down a ight of steps in central
warm, orangey-brown Seventies nostalgia,
Gamla Stan is Aifur (www.aifur.se), a
perfectly pitched in both content and
restaurant to get any role-playing fans hot
button-pressing. It follows the four from
under their jerkin collars: arrivals are
pre-Eurovision (look out for the photo of
given a rousing introduction and welcomed a beardless Benny, aged two) to, several
with a clatter of goblets on rough-hewn
jumpsuits later, their early-1980s split.
wooden tables. It only uses ingredients that
Between mock-ups of their studio and
were available to the Vikings, so bear, elk
lakeside cabin where the songs were
and moose are on the menu but not chips written, you can remix the hits, dance like
(the spud didnt arrive here until the 1760s). a loon under mirror balls and perform
Swedish Hasbeens
PHOTOGRAPHS: DORIS BELING/FOLIO;

JEAN-BAPISTE BERANGER; NICHO SODLING/FOLIO
Everyone will point you in the direction of

Djurgrden, the citys playground island,
and youd be a fool to ignore them. While
Grna Lund (www.gronalund.com) has
some alarmingly dizzying rides, it also has
the innate civility of a Fifties amusement
park, with a twinkly-eyed gent in a green
top hat who bids you farewell at the exit.
The brooding, 17th-century galleon inside
the hangar-like Vasa Museum (www.
vasamuseet.se) will send shivers down
your spine with its dark, hulking presence
in the future, this is how captured alien
spaceships will be displayed. Junibacken
(www.junibacken.se) is a knockabout
play area where the highlight is the Story
Train: the red-painted wooden carriages
trundle through the ctional worlds of
Astrid Lindgren (familiarity with her
freckle-faced, untamed heroine Pippi
Longstocking isnt essential), swooping
high over wintry villages and past ominous
mountains. Its lovingly modelled, magical
and exhilarating, even for fortysomething
fathers. For a pick-me-up, dip into the
courtyard Caf Bl Porten (www.blaporten.
com), or the newly rejigged, waterside
Djurgrdsbrons Sjcaf near Junibacken,
which also hires out canoes and bikes.
Lngholmen Island
on stage with holograms of the band (all

of this hilarity can later be downloaded
at home). Abba were initially a mystery
to my ve-year-old; now theyre the only
band he listens to.
The great Swedish summer tradition of

stripping off and plunging into the 15C
water is one that should be embraced.
The most accessible and best bathing spot
is on Lngholmen, a former prison island
thats an easy meander from the waterside
area of Hornstull. Make your way to the
northern shore where youll nd a small
sandy beach and a very paddle-able cove,
with an outdoor shower. After youve
dried off, wander back through the owerlled allotment gardens (theres a caf
should you need provisions) and past the
prison walls. There are still inmates: the
cells have been turned into a hostel-hotel.
With its wide pavements and relatively

trafc-free streets, the hipster enclave of
SoFo on Sdermalm is made for an
afternoons dawdling. Base yourself in
leafy Nytorget Park and drop into
Minirodini (www.minirodini.com) and
Rackarungar (www.rackarungar.se) for
cool Scandi kids clothing, Hipp! (www.
hippstory.com) for fairground-bright
jewellery, totes and prints, Sneakersnstuff
Mirrors at Artipelag
Grna Lund park
THE EXPERTS... FAMILY

Grandpa shop in SoFo
until you spy a jauntily modern piece of

architecture hiding amid the pines. A
sculpted human form teeters on a roof
edge, a huge boulder rises through the
shiny concrete oor like a breaching
whale, and oor-to-ceiling gallery windows
frame forest views. Its probably the only
art space with potties in the gift shop
the owner is the founder of BabyBjrn.
SAS (www.ysas.com) ies from London

to Stockholm. For more information about
the city, go to www.visitstockholm.com.
Restaurant J, popular with Stockholmers

for an after-work and great for lunchtime
moules and meatballs. The boat to the old
town leaves from the marina here (its a
15-minute trip). Alternatively, roam the
grounds (nd the playground in the Gruffalo
woods behind) and book in a sailing lesson,
or an authentic Swedish massage in the
nearby spa villa. After a day out, fall into the
lobby sofas and pour something from the
honesty bar; if youre lucky, one of the staff
will just be sliding a batch of cinnamon
buns from the oven. The new Melody
Hotel (www.melody.se; doubles from
160) is right next to the Abba museum on
Djurgrden, and staff are happy to organise
extra beds for children; with the two-night
Family Fresh package at the Grand Htel
(www.grandhotel.se) opposite the Royal
Palace, one child under 16 stays free. For
smart self-catering, Grand Trip Sweden
(www.grandtripsweden.com) has lovely
summerhouses and archipelago villas.
PHOTOGRAPH: STEFAN WETTAINEN
(www.sneakersnstuff.com) for cult, Finnish

Karhu trainers, and Prlans Konfektyr
(www.parlanskonfektyr.se) for retro sweets.
Look out for the new shop from funky clog
cobbler Swedish Hasbeens (www.swedish
hasbeens.com) on Asgaten, and nip into
Grandpa (www.grandpa.se) for mid-century
modern pieces and Folk clothing. SoFo is
well-established, but newly revitalised is
Hornstull, on Sdermalms western tip,
where highlights include the cinema/caf
Bio Rio (www.biorio.se), Juiceverket (www.
juiceverket.se) for an Eggs and Bacon
smoothie (apple, fennel, raspberry, agave
and liquorice) and Friends of Adam (www. Scones at Friends of Adam
friendsofadam.se) for gluten-free mufns.
Time your visit to coincide with the
weekend market where you can pick up
Hotel Diplomat (www.diplomathotel. com)
anything from vintage lm posters to
and watch boats cast off for the islands.
Acne jeans, and tap into its food-truck
scene: Frankies Coffee for kas and cake;
Bun Bun (www.bunbun.se) for banh mi.
Stockholms archipelago is vast, and you
can embark on meandering voyages
around the islands, medieval towns and
Small portions of mains rather than
citadels. Artipelag (www.artipelag.se),
special childrens menus are the norm in
however, is a little different. Take the
Stockholm, so experiment with lobster
10.30am ferry from the central Nybrokajen
gratin or reindeer heart (with mini burgers pier and 90 minutes later you land at a
as back-up) at theatrical new bistro
small jetty, then trip down a wooden
Nytorget 6 (www.nytorget6.com) in SoFo. walkway that skirts the shoreline, past
Across the road is the all-rounder Urban
glittering water and through ferny glades,
Deli (www.urbandeli.org), which even
has a sourdough hotel where local bakers
can store their starters; in summer, grab
salads, salami and crispbreads for a picnic
in the park opposite. Near Htorget in
Stockholm is like the Busytown of Richard
the city centre is K25 (www.k25.nu), a
Scarrys excellent books, with rattling trams
food-court concept thats rare for Sweden;
and trains criss-crossing on bridges and
pick up burritos, Thai sh cakes, meze or
tunnels, and vessels of all sizes paddling in
just a cup of tea and sit at the communal
and out of the harbour: tugboats honking
like geese, cruise ships muscling in from
long table. Its 19th-century precursor is
Riga and Tallinn. The views from Hotel J
the red-brick stermalmshallen market
(www.hotelj.com; doubles from about
(www.ostermalmshallen.se), with its
105) at Nacka Strand are as mesmerising
leering moose heads, pickled herrings and
as an HBO boxset. From the terrace of your
fat oysters. For ice cream, StikkiNikki
J Newport Seaview room or a deckchair
(www.stikkinikki.com) has organic saffron
on the sloping lawn outside watch the
and salt-caramel avours, and the suave,
water turn milky-white at dusk and hot-air
Italian-style Taverna Brillo (www.taverna
balloons bob above the islands. Set in
brillo.se) has peanut and blueberry gelato
a couple of 19th-century buildings with a
(as well as inventive pizza toppings such
modern wing, rooms are shipshape and
Bristol fashion, tricked out in white panelling
as cockles, mint and chilli). Niklas Ekstedt
and star-spangled blankets. Rise early to bag
(www.ekstedt.nu), meanwhile, is a twisted
a window table for breakfast (Gotland eggs,
restarter chef of Michelin standing who
carrot jam) in the waterside villa, then race
chimney-smokes and repit-scorches
along the quayside to skim stones beneath
trout, lobster and more at his eponymous
the statue that surfs on a ume of water.
restaurant, suitable for older teens. At
Further along is the hotels port-holed
the weekend, join Stockholm families
for the popular brunch at T/Bar in the

enjoy its exceptional At Home programme. Every
month residents can attend private evenings hosted by
well-known personalities, participate in masterclasses
run by leaders in their eld and enjoy previews in the
world of fashion, music and the arts.
cultural legacy
While the London trio is hip and happening, further
aeld in Istanbul, the Pera Palace Hotel Jumeirah
stands as a bastion of poque elegance and cultural
legacy. Situated high above the Golden Horn, it is
half-hotel half-museum, and with the Literature
Package guests can sleep in the same atmospheric
rooms that hosted luminaries such as Agatha Christie
and Ernest Hemingway. Moving into the 1920s and
to the heart of historic Rome, Jumeirah Grand Hotel
Via Veneto has been beautifully renovated and
designed. Two 19th century villas house stunning
spring TO LIFE
Spring is arguably the best time to travel Europe:
from London to Rome, Mallorca to Istanbul,
experience it with a twist of Arabian hospitality
UMEIRAH is more than just another luxury hotel
group. Through the Burj Al Arab, its pioneering
luxury hotel on the Dubai coast, Jumeirah has
dened the concept of exceptional Arabian
hospitality. An ever-evolving global enterprise,
Jumeirah delivers awless service, beautifully
appointed suites and an exceptional level of luxury
and comfort. When Dubais Burj Al Arab opened in
1999 it was immediately dubbed the worlds most
luxurious hotel, and nearly 15 years on it remains in
the top echelons of the luxury hotel scene. The secret
of its success is in the vision, detail and ability of being
able to think of things others dont, traits that dene
the Jumeirah experience the world over, from the glitz
and glamour of Dubai to Europes historic piazzas.
glitz and glamour

London will start to ourish again after the long winter
months, and as we head into spring all three Londonbased Jumeirah properties are putting on extra-special
experiences. The sweet-toothed will love Suite Treats
at Jumeirah Carlton Tower: a decadent mouthwatering package that includes English breakfast for
two, Champagne afternoon tea by Master Ptissier
ric Lanlard and his latest publication Chocolat.
Clockwise from top:

Jumeirah Port Soller Hotel
& Spa, Mallorca; The Terrace,
home to chef Martin Gabler's
BBQ masterclass at
Jumeirah Lowndes Hotel,
London; Jumeirah Grand
Hotel Via Veneto, Rome;
Burj Al Arab, Dubai
Or why not learn the intricacies of barbecuing from

chef Martin Gabler on The Terrace at Jumeirah
Lowndes Hotel. These master classes in the heart of
Belgravia are being run from April through to
September. Alternatively, those on an extended stay at
Grosvenor House Apartments by Jumeirah Living can
suites all with an art deco feel, handmade furniture

and grand marble bathrooms. With a legendary art
collection including works by Picasso, Dali and
Guttuso, this ve-star hotel exemplies Jumeirah
luxury. A little further west, the beautiful Balearic
Islands will be starting to blossom into life. Jumeirah
Port Soller Hotel & Spa in Mallorca serves up an
unforgettable taste of Spain. Added extras include
mountain walks to Fornalutx (voted the most beautiful
village in the Balearics) and olive oil making lessons
from a local farmer.
With the combination of grand gestures and
minute details, Jumeirah crafts unforgettable
luxury experiences that engage the
imagination. Find your travel experience at
jumeirah.com
THE EXPERTS... HEALTH
The power of deep breathing isnt new.

Indian yoga practitioners have been
reaping the benets of pranayama (a
Sanskrit term meaning control of breath)
for years, Buddhist meditation has
controlled breathing at its core, and
the Chinese make conscious use of inhales
and exhales in both qigong and tai chi.
Transformational breathing has simply streamlined these
methods. British self-styled breath guru Alan Dolan
claims to have helped people with problems ranging
from sleep disorders and weight issues to depression,
burnouts and even cancer. Imagine if feeling better
could be as simple as breathing better. We sent a man
on the brink, Jonathan Thompson, to nd out more.
Over the past few months the toughest
of my life, personally and professionally
my mind and body have been lling up
with stress and anxiety like a frantic game
of Tetris. The kind where youre just a
few moves from the screen lling up for
good. Ive had to grapple with a divorce
after just a year of marriage, as well as
a close family bereavement, both while
coping with being newly self-employed.
I wasnt sleeping or eating properly, and
my nervous system was paying a heavy
price. My anxiety was so severe at times
that it felt like a vine wrapping ever more
tightly around my chest.
Dont worry, says Alan Dolan as we
sit on his sunny terrace in Lanzarote.
Lots of people come here with similar
issues. The most important thing is to
realise that youre not broken. Alan
runs transformational breathing retreats
at his mountaintop villa on the most
easterly of the Canary Islands. The
location is fundamental to the process;
Alan describes Lanzarote as the other
therapist. Although he offers shorter
courses in London, this is where most of
the life-changing breakthroughs occur.
Visiting him feels a little like stepping
into antiquity and climbing a peak to
seek counsel from a fted holy man.
Theres something elemental about being
up here, buffeted by the near-relentless
wind while powerful waves break on
a rugged beach below. Alan unwittingly
plays the part, with his unkempt beard,
loose clothes and long hair. His nearest

village is even called Nazaret.
Despite this apparent spiritual
synchronicity, Ive come with a healthy
sense of scepticism. Alan is one of only
27 qualied breath facilitators in Britain
(and 2,000 in the world), but is easily
the best-known. He has a number of
high-prole clients, from actors to CEOs,
though only Bond girl Naomie Harris
has ofcially shrugged off her anonymity
and gone on the record about how lifechanging she has found his work. By the
end of my rst day with Alan, however,
all doubt has been blown away.
There are never more than three guests
at the villa, each with their own room and
At one point Im told

to shout loudly and
beat my hands on the
oor like a toddler
having a tantrum
space to relax alone. The only rule is
that everyone has dinner together each
evening, when delicious vegetarian food
is brought up from a restaurant in the
neighbouring village. The breathing
sessions themselves are always one-on-one
and take place in a small, peaceful room
at the back of the property.
I lie on a mattress, my head propped
up on pillows at a 45-degree angle, while
Alan explains the basics of connected

breathing. Its two long breaths in
through your mouth then one short
exhale, as if youre misting a mirror. Try
focusing on the rhythm of the Queen
song We Will Rock You.
At rst its hard to keep the huh,
huh, haaaahhh of the deeper abdominal
breathing going, but after about 10
minutes I relax into it. I concentrate on
lling my lower abdomen like a balloon.
Soon, I notice a oating feeling followed
by a vibrating sensation in my arms, as
if Im clenching mini-pneumatic drills in
both sts. (I later discover that this is my
capillaries opening up, the effect of the
blood receiving a richer oxygen supply.)
Throughout, Alan prods at acupressure
points on my body to release energy.
At one stage he asks me to shout loudly
a wail more than words to help the
energy ow, and to beat my hands on the
oor like a toddler having a tantrum. Im
aware of Alan but Im also somewhere
else, as if Ive drifted outside of my body.
Suddenly, an hour-and-a-half has passed
and Im back in the room, with a blanket
around my shoulders. Its a decidedly odd
sensation but underpinned by a deep,
undeniable sense of calm.
There are naysayers, of course. After
all, Alan is essentially a professional
heavy-breather; and his critics point to
a dearth of scientic evidence to support
the mental or physical benets of his
techniques. I only speak for myself, but
I can truly say that it helped a lot. After
three days of deep breaths, its as if Ive
been cleansed inside and out: a full-body
colonic. I feel in control of myself, my
future. Everything in my life has slowed
right down and I can not only manage
it all again, but do so with ease. I am
lighter. It all seems so much simpler; I
can almost taste the positivity coursing
through my system. Leaving the island,
I am serene and strong. Alan was right. I
was never broken in the rst place. The
solution to my problems was always
right under my nose.
Transformational breathing retreats cost
from 530 for three nights, including full
board and transfers (www.breathguru.com).
British Airways (www.ba.com) ies from
Heathrow to Lanzarote twice weekly
ILLUSTRATION: SHUTTERSTOCK
THE FOCUS BREATHING SPACE
Clockwise from top

left: the atrium
on-board Seabourn
Odyssey; Seabourn
Quest sailing in
Antarctica;
Seabourn
Odyssey's dining
room; enjoying the
on-board cuisine
SEA
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accommodation to complimentary
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world
magine you discovered a boutique resort that

offered six-star luxury on every level: intuitive
service, spacious and elegant suites, gourmet
restaurants and a destination spa. Add to that
like-minded guests and a wealth of complimentary
activities, from caviar parties and dancing under the
stars to lectures by luminaries in the world of arts,
cuisine, theatre and sciences, it sounds almost too
good to be true. Then add in the fact that this
all-inclusive resort carries you across the worlds
oceans to exotic destinations as diverse as
Antarctica, Burma and Croatia and you realise you
can only be in one place: on a Seabourn cruise.
Since the company's debut in 1988, Seabourn has
transformed the face of cruising. With the launch of
the 450-guest Seabourn Odyssey in 2009 and the
subsequent introduction of her two sister ships,
Seabourn is aiming high. The chic trio have
introduced the world to exceptional levels of service,
culinary excellence, serene spas and the highest
guest-to-space ratio in the industry.
you call the shots

Far from being merely a hotel at sea, your
Seabourn ship is as much a part of your holiday as
the destinations it ushers you to. A Seabourn
adventure is all about you calling the shots: warm
up after exploring the medieval streets of Tallinn
in a lavender bubble bath prepared by your suite
steward, enjoy a romantic dinner served course by
course on your private veranda overlooking
Dubrovnik, lose yourself to a sunset classical
concert set in the ruins of Ephesus, mull over St
Petersburgs art gems with Royal Portrait Painter
Richard Stone (a hotly-anticipated Seabourn
Conversations guest this summer), or spend an
afternoon waterskiing, snorkelling and sailing from
the ships water sports marina.
Seabourn tailors its voyages to take in the worlds
cultural and natural highlights such as Rome,
Hong Kong, Patagonia and Tahiti, as well as its
lesser-known treasures: Omans Musandam
Peninsula, Corsicas L'le Rousse and the
Amazonian river town of Parintins. While Odyssey
and her sister ships each accommodate multiple
dining venues and bars; an 11,400 square-foot spa;
a grand salon for lectures, theatrical performances
and cookery demonstrations; diverse boutiques
and spacious suites (90% of which have private
verandas), they are still petite enough to sail into
small, off-the-beaten-track ports. So, all you have
to do is pick your ship and dream destinations and
let Seabourn provide the magic.
For more information, visit seabourn.co.uk
or call 0843 373 2000
THE EXPERTS... FEASTING
CEVICHE
By Joanna Weinberg
Ceviche is not the sort of food you

stumble upon when scouting for a quick
bite in the average town centre. Unless
youre in Peru, or Mexico, or somewhere
between the two. It is an eating experience
quite apart, best enjoyed with your feet
buried in white sand warmed by the sun, with the background
pounding of turquoise seas. Or, better still, on a shing boat
and (with apologies to vegetarians) the sh still dancing as you
llet it. Everything about it must be young and fresh it cannot
have got even as far as a fridge.
Like sushi, it is composed in the main from raw sh,
shrimp or octopus, the sweet esh still laced with salty seawater.
Bring to the party the sharp tang of lime juice to
cook it, add the minerality of tomato, the
snap of raw onion, the butteriness of avocado,
perhaps a piercing suspicion of chilli and
the fragrant waft of coriander. You can
see why so much of the Americas would
like to take credit for ceviche, but the
prize goes to the Peruvians, who drink
the marinating juices, or tigers milk,
alongside. It has been eaten there for
thousands of years: the sh was originally
marinated in the fermented juices of
the banana, passion fruit or the Andean
Drink me
drink chicha. It was only when the Spanish colonisers brought

citrus to the new world that the cooking juice was replaced by
lime and lemon. In fact, its a cheat: theres no cooking involved
in ceviche at all.
This months recipe

Take sushi-quality llets of the freshest white sh you can nd
they need to be delicate and meaty and not too aky (get grouper or
snapper for authenticity, but bass and brill work well, too) and cut
into 1cm cubes. Squeeze the juice of a few limes over the pieces and
add some very nely chopped red onion, a little salt and garlic, and
if you fancy, some minced Scotch-bonnet chilli, and stir through the
sh. Marinate for one to four hours, depending on how cooked you
want your sh (fashion dictates the best sh is marinated for the least
amount of time). Meanwhile, skin and chop plum tomatoes,
discarding the seeds (you can replace with mango if
youre feeling exotic). Cube an avocado, and chop
some fresh coriander. When the sh is as you like
it, drain off the juice, reserving it, and carefully
toss with the tomato, avocado and coriander.
Eat alongside roasted cubes of sweet potato, or
scoop up with tortilla chips. Treat the juice as
you might a Virgin Mary, by seasoning to taste
with Tabasco and Worcestershire sauce, and
serve alongside in a shot glass. Turn up the central
heating and switch on the wave track and eat.
By Malcolm Gluck
Last months column featured a biodynamic

liquid, the makers of which eschew all
unnatural practices and follow the phases of
the moon in both viti- and viniculture.
Similar organic bottles will be the chosen
ones this month, too, because the dish is one of the most natural
imaginable and also one of the wickedest to pair with wine.
Ceviche is the very devil, in fact. A step up
from sashimi in raw ingenuity (it is cured in
citric acid), it destroys reds and cripples most
ross; only the most robust yet incisively
complex of whites is worthy of candidature
(which means forget most Sauvignon Blancs).
I offer two splendid specimens, along with
a ttingly spirituous digestif to follow.
From Peneds in Catalunya comes
Nosoddos 2012, made from the Xarello
grape by Albet i Noya. It is soft yet waxy,
and dramatically clinical on the nish, with a hint of tangerine
peel and mild spice. It costs 10.99. Being screwcapped oh,
the joy of writing that disyllable the wine will stay fresh and
age congenially for a good few years more. Smokier and richer,
with an apricotty opulence (without being one whit OTT), is
the gripping Emiliana Signos 2012 from Chile, made from a
Burgundy-meets-Rhne mix of Chardonnay, Marsanne,

Roussanne and Viognier grapes. It is best decanted four hours
beforehand (indeed, at 14.5 per cent, it has much in common
with a hearty red) and should preferably be served in generous,
Burgundy-style glasses to allow the perfume to totally engulf
the senses when the glass is agitated. This wine costs 11.50.
With ceviche in Peru Id go for the local white-grape blend
(Tacama Blanco de Blancos is the name),
and in Mexico I would choose one of the
Chardonnays from Baja California (LA
Cetto is the producer to go for). But at
home, to nish, there is no choice. After
ceviche, what more splendid drop can there
be but a marine-inuenced calvados, the
great apple-brandy of northern France?
Domaine de Cinq Autels VSOP Calvados
(29.95) is made by Claude and JeanRen Pitrou, south-east of Caen, from
apples nourished by the memories (and bones) of William the
Conquerors warriors as they fought the battle of Val-s-Dunes.
You can rent rooms from the Pitrous, at their farm and ciderie,
and sample their exemplary calvados rst hand. To acquire it in
the UK as with that pair of white wines contact Hampshires
Vintage Roots (0800 980 4992; www.vintageroots.com).
Ceviche destroys
reds and cripples
most ross only
the most robust
yet complex whites
are worthy
ILLUSTRATIONS: HEATHER GATLEY PHOTOGRAPH: STOCK FOOD
Eat me
palace inwonderland
Experience unsurpassed luxury at the sumptuous Emirates Palace in Abu Dhabi
bu Dhabi is a destination worth discovering. The
largest of the seven United Arab Emirates, it is
home to the countrys vibrant capital city, an
enchanting combination of traditional Arabian
culture, modern design and a cosmopolitan vibe.
Theres much to do - Abu Dhabi hosts Formula 1
racing and the HSBC Golf Championships, and will
soon boast its own Louvre and Guggenheim museums.
Meanwhile, stunning white-sand beaches, lush parks
and magnicent desertscapes prove its scenery is as
diverse as its cultural offerings.
worth its weight in gold

The best base from which to appreciate and explore
Abu Dhabis delights is Emirates Palace, a staggering
monument to Arabian architecture that presides
majestically over the Arabian Gulf. Conceived
originally as a destination to welcome heads of state
and royalty, the hotel truly lives up to its palatial name
and is the second most costly ever built. An indulgent,
one-of-a-kind experience begins as soon you step
through the soaring archways of this unique
destination. Once youve checked into your
sumptuously appointed room or exquisite suite, youll

want to start sampling the 14 superb restaurants,
lounges and bars located within the hotel and across
the palace terrace. Thanks to 128 kitchens, youll
enjoy the nest global and national cuisine, along with
a generous serving of legendary Arabian hospitality.
Our tips: book a table at Mezlai, the rst authentic
Emirati restaurant in the UAE. And look out for
pastries dusted with pure gold!
Beyond the tempting dining options, there are plenty
of opportunities to indulge in Emirates Palace. Frolic
in one of two swimming pools - a family-friendly
affair replete with water slides and a grown-up option
complete with Jacuzzi and swim-up bar; relinquish
time and stress with a relaxing treatment at the blissful
Palace spa; or sit and admire the many super yachts at
the prestigious Emirates Palace Marina. If you crave
space and seclusion, take a stroll along the 1.3km
stretch of pristine private beach or through the
100-hectares of beautifully kept grounds, possibly
the best way to fully appreciate the Emirates Palace
in all its regal glory.
For more information visit emiratespalace.ae
Clockwise from middle:

the majestic exterior
of Emirates Palace;
the petal-strewn Palace
spa; Three-Bedroom
Palace Suite; Le
Vendme Brasserie; the
Palace spa in detail
THE EXPERTS... BOOKS
BEST NEW TRAVEL TITLES
Brian Jackman has been writing

about the animals and
landscapes of Africa for 40
years. In Savannah Diaries,
which collects his accounts of
game parks, theres a wonderful
story of two meetings with
legendary safari guide Robin
Pope. The rst is when Pope is
a rookie, apprenticed to
Norman Carr, the grand old
man of the Luangwa Valley; the
second takes place 30 years
later, when Jackman joins Pope
for a walking safari. Heres one
great professional describing
another: He appears totally
relaxed, yet he never drops his
guard. He is like a leopard;
he never completely switches off.
Jackman himself, as these
writings show, is no less
observant. Bradt, 9.99
Sigrid Rausings Everything is

Wonderful: Memories of a
Collective Farm in Estonia
details her anthropological
eldwork during 1993 and 1994
in Noarootsi, a former Soviet
military zone in recently
independent Estonia. Its a place
full of ghosts, not only of Stalinism
but also of the Holocaust.
Thoughtful, curious and a little
bewildered, Rausing captures a
country in rapid transition.
Returning a decade later, she
nds all has changed: there are
mobile phones, shopping centres,
management consultants. In a
book full of lyrical moments, the
most moving section is her
attempt to capture the odd, not
entirely comprehensible sense of
nostalgia that this engenders.
Grove Atlantic, 14.99
By Giles Foden
The Bookshop That

Floated Away is Sarah
Henshaws tale of travelling
the canals of Britain trying to
sell books from a barge. This
is funny and cleverly written
perhaps the rst postmodernist take on canals
and uncovers strange
destinations such as the
underground car park in
Leeds where you can also
moor your boat, and the
pub in Nottingham where
the canal runs inside, allowing
one to slide in for a pint. As
for the barge itself, its still
just about in business,
somewhere near Stoke-onTrent, having chugged about
1,000 miles and sold
roughly the same number of
books. Constable, 7.99
THE GREATEST BOOK ON EARTH

Alain de Botton nominates Lanzarote by Michel Houellebecq
One of the most peculiar,
delightful, wicked and
perverse of all travel books
is a novella by the French
writer Michel Houellebecq,
the bad boy (and saviour)
of contemporary French
literature. The
story begins when
the unnamed
narrator single, balding, addicted to
pornography, a civil servant drops in on a
Paris travel agent asking where he might go
for some sun at Christmas. The travel agent
suggests Tunisia or southern Morocco, but
the narrator snaps back: I dont like Arab countries...

Stop there if you are appalled already, but if not,
accompany the narrator to Lanzarote, where
he tours the island, marvels at its lunar bleakness,
insults fellow tourists, takes pictures of local
cactii (the book has 25 colour plates of them!) and
hooks up with a couple of non-exclusive German
lesbians. The tone is ribald, funny, nasty
and utterly compelling. Youll never
consider the Canary Islands in the same
way again. In Houellebecq, they have
found their sick poet laureate.
Alain de Bottons The News: A Users
Manual (Hamish Hamilton, 18.99)
is out now
Kolyma is the ice-throttled

expanse of tundra in
north-east Siberia that
housed many of the
Soviet gulags; its still a
cruel place, its brutish
settlements connected
only by a single 2,000km
highway, a road built on
permafrost. This is what
Polish journalist Jacek
Hugo-Bader travels on,
seeking out stories. His
Kolyma Diaries: A
Journey into Russias
Haunted Hinterland is
peopled by miners and
hunters, truckers and
scrap-metal dealers, police
and thieves, and the
children of political
prisoners. In one scene,
a Colonel in the secret
police goes on a vodkaand-cards bender with
his counterpart in the
underworld, reviving
the old Stalinist alliance.
In another, comically,
an oligarch will not
drop his illusion that
Hugo-Bader is a Polish
intelligence agent.
Powerful stuff, written by
a man who seems to be
the natural heir to
Ryszard Kapuscinski.
Portobello, 16.99
Gran Hotel Baha del Duque is

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designs
Clockwise from top:

the tranquil exterior of
Villa Las Retamas; Las
Villas reception;
Finnish sauna; bedroom
interior at Villa
Las Retamas
trees, dragon trees, Indian laurels, jacarandas and cacti

cocoon guests in a private and exotic haven.
ituated in the south of Tenerife, Gran Hotel

Baha del Duque fronts the 950-metre stretch of
coastline known as Playa del Duque. Made up
of ve coves, this is one of the islands best
coastal spots. The hotel opened in 1993 and quickly
established itself as the go-to Canarian destination for
luxury-seeking travellers. Reminiscent of a small
village, the 19 low-lying independent houses have been
designed by architect Andrs Piero and are a world
away from the islands penchant for high-rise. He also
made his ecological mark by planting tropical and
sub-tropical plants. Twenty years on, the resorts palm
In addition to the 300-plus rooms (all beautifully

appointed) there are 40 ultra-luxurious villas. Since
opening in 2008, these one and two-bed residences
have proved hugely popular with couples, friends and
families. Interior designer Pascua Ortega has created
ambient interiors; luxurious bedrooms come complete
with the nest linen, romantic lighting and all the
latest Bang & Olufsen technology while stunning stone
bathrooms are stocked up with Acqua di Parma
products. Outside, tropical gardens transport you to a
land far away and the innity pools complete the vestar picture. Villa guests also have the added bonus of
in-villa massages, aromatherapy baths, personalised
breakfasts, private dinners created to order and extra
facilities such as the villa pool, tea lounge and Las
Aguas, the must-try restaurant headed up by Canariesborn chef Braulio Simancas who takes a creative
approach to local fare.
new worldliness
The resorts other pice de rsistance is the spa. The Baha
del Duque Spa has been inspired by Tenerifes climate
and natural landscape, offering unique rituals using
marine extracts, volcanic lava, banana leaves and aloe
vera that complement the impressive la carte
treatment menu encompassing massages, wraps,
scrubs, pummels and peels. With 20 treatment rooms,

ve outdoor cabins, two enormous VIP suites for
couples (featuring private terraces and relaxation
areas), three thalassotherapy booths, a Vichy shower,
Hammam, sea water therapy circuit, Chi studio (used
for yoga, t'ai chi, meditation and Pilates) the spa is as
good as pampering gets. If you can tear yourself away
from the ultimate in relaxation, there are numerous
water sports, tennis, squash, a gymnasium, pools
galore, eight restaurants and 13 bars. For an all-yearround, ve-star venue, Gran Hotel Baha del Duque is
about as comprehensive as it gets.
For further information on the hotel and villas
visit bahia-duque.com/en
THE EXPERTS... ADVICE
Q
A
My wife and I are planning to spend a week in Barcelona

and would like to explore the coast while were there.
Can you point us in the right direction?
Try Cadaqus, a town coloured by the presence of former

resident Salvador Dal. Visit the surrealist painters madcap
home at Portlligat (www.salvador-dali.org/museus), with
its phallus-shaped swimming pool; prop up the bar at his
old hangout LHostal (www.lhostalcadaques.com), and
breakfast among photos of Dal and Marcel Duchamp at
Bar Melitn (Paseo General Escofet 30; +34 972 258201).
Throughout the summer, the town puts
on La Nit dArt (The Night of Art), where
hundreds of artists open their studios to the
public and galleries stay open late, serving
drinks. Cadaqus is also famous for its
music scene, and if youre not here during
the international music festival in August,
its bars including Can Shelabi (Riera
de Sant Vicen 9; +34 972 258900) and
Brown Sugar (Carrer Vigilant; +34 659
381154) will keep you entertained with
spontaneous amenco. Stay at Sa Perata
(www.saperata.com; doubles from 135),
a vineyard set above the town and
Isobel Finbow
run by the Martin Faix family, who
Online intern
zip around on scooters, always with
a golden retriever between their legs. The family also run
the Restaurant Can Rafa (Carrer del Passeig 7; +34 972
159401), where they slap huge plates of seafood and
paella onto the table and you can never be sure whether
theyre yelling at each other or at you. During the day,
follow the lead of the locals: pick your way around the spiky
coast and nd a spot to sunbathe. Swimming costumes
are optional in this bohemian community.
Q
A
I am keen to buy a small suitcase that I can put in an

overhead locker or in the hold, but one that doesnt
say business trip. Where should I start?
The size guidelines for carry-on bags are fairly standardised:
56cm x 45cm x 25cm. However, watch out for weight
restrictions: last summer, a friend tried to take her
weekend bag onto a Thomson ight as hand luggage,
only to be advised of the companys 5kg limit. She
ended up having to wear the entire contents for the
ight, including her bikini. The Globe-Trotter trolley case
(www.globetrotter1897.com), with its leather-capped
corners and old-school styling, is the smartest way
of getting your stuff from A to B. Whenever mine is
wheeled out, Im inundated by
people asking, Where did you
get it? But it is expensive, at
650 for the 21-inch version
(see picture), and there is a
four-week lead time (they are
handmade in Hertfordshire),
so order well in advance. For
something more hi-tech, the
Rimowa Salsa Air 55cm fourwheel cabin suitcase (355; Issy von Simson
Features editor
www.rimowa.de) is made
from practically indestructible
polycarbonate, so is sturdy enough to withstand the
check-in process if required. The same goes for the
bright-red Victorinox Spectra 2.0 eight-wheel cabin
case (325; www.victorinox.com), which is rock-solid
and robust. Antler (www.antler.co.uk) also has a
cherry-coloured number, the Quadrant B1 four-wheel
cabin suitcase (110), as does Tumi (http://uk.tumi.
com) with its T-Tech Cargo Continental Carry-On
(275). None of which you can miss on the carousel.
Im travelling to Tel Aviv for a short break with
my two young children. Can you recommend any
activities to keep them occupied for an afternoon?
You should denitely visit one of the spectacular
(and free) playgrounds dotted around Israels second
city. Consisting of huge rope walkways, sandpits and
ume-like slides, they put to shame anything you
would nd in the UK. A particularly good one is in the
neighbourhood of Ramat HaSharon: an extensive,
web-like structure in the shade of some eucalyptus trees,
it has giant slides, a large paddling pool with squirty
fountains, a play area for toddlers, an AstroTurf football
pitch, an exercise space, and
even a playground specically
for dogs. You can let the kids
loose for a couple of hours and
sit back in the knowledge they
will be exhausted but happy
come home time. If you have any
energy left and fancy a spot of
early evening sun, catch a cab
to the marina at Herzliya Pituach
for some serious yacht-ogling
Jessica Diamond
and a sh supper at the newly
Acting managing
opened Ritz-Carlton Herzliya
editor
(www.ritzcarlton.com).
PHOTOGRAPH: HEMIS
Q
A
Q
A
Im looking for somewhere to hunker down for a long weekend

in north Cornwall, but I want to steer clear of the busier towns.
Where would you suggest?
I came across the charming little shing port of St Agnes last year
while staying in the more overdeveloped Perranporth further up
the coast. The beaches here are famous for their surng, but
are less than appealing on a rainy day, so we set off along the
coastal path of purple heathland, not
knowing what we would nd. Having
battled the elements for almost
an hour, we stumbled across The
Driftwood Spars (www.driftwood
spars.co.uk; doubles from 70)
at St Agnes. This cosy pub was
everything we needed it to be: there
was a roaring re, a good selection of
Tabitha Joyce
beers, welcoming locals and, best of
Editorial assistant
all, a charming spotted spaniel with his
own bar stool. The catch of the day, complete with mushy peas
and chips, was the best I have ever eaten. The pretty terrace
overlooking the dramatic coastline would be the perfect spot on
a clear day, and theres plenty to do here, including coastal walks,
surng lessons, snorkelling, and shing trips. Named after the
huge timber beams pulled from ships found wrecked nearby,
The Driftwood Spars is full of character and has 15 bedrooms,
also dog-friendly. We wished we could have skipped the taxi
back to Perranporth and stayed the night.
Q
A
I visit Oslo regularly for work, but next time I want to

get out and explore the countryside. Where should I go?
Gl is the perfect respite from city life. It is where Peer
Gynt, the hero of Ibsens play of the same name, grew up,
a place steeped in folklore. In August, you can see the play
enacted at Glvatnet lake. As the audience take their
seats, boats can be seen in the distance, carrying wedding
guests for the rst scene; by the end, smoke billows across
the water, obscuring the silhouette of tree-lined mountains
as Peer is suffocated by his past. Viewing this tale in front
of a orid sunset is denitely worth the trip from Oslo.
During the day, you can wander the wildower-covered
ski slopes, go troll-hunting and
blueberry-picking, swim in the
lake and sunbathe on the rocks.
In winter, of course, it becomes
a haven for skiers. Gl is about
four hours from Oslo by train
or car. There are plenty of B&Bs,
but the Gl Hgfjellshotel
(www.gala.no; from 180 for
an apartment at weekends) has Mila Taylor Young
rooms and cabins to rent and is Editorial intern
a short walk through the forest
from the stage. Peer Gynt premieres on 1 August (pre-book
at www.peergynt.no), but wed recommend you re-read the
story beforehand, as the play is staged in Norwegian.
Valamar Dubrovnik President Hotel 5*
Special welcome offers: free airport transfer

or free half board service
New Dubrovnik Stars

coming in Spring!
The ve-star Valamar Dubrovnik President Hotel
and four-star Valamar Argosy Hotel bring an added
splash of luxury to Croatias most exclusive Adriatic
resort Valamar Hotels & Resorts.
Set on the tranquil Babin Kuk peninsula with
beautiful beaches and close to the historic centre
of Dubrovnik, both hotels offer outdoor pools with
a sun deck, indoor pools, wellness, new luxury
rooms and upscale restaurants.
www.valamar.com/2014
Photos are for illustration purposes only. Project is subject to permits and master plans.
Valamar Argosy Hotel 4*
Valamar Dubrovnik President Hotel 5*
COMPETITION
PHOTOGRAPH: ALEIX PLADEMUNT
WHERE ARE YOU?

What a way to tour the world: inside
a motorhome modelled on the globe.
But unfortunately this recreational
vehicle is not going anywhere fast (and
besides, imagine the size of engine
youd need to tow it). Its permanently
stationed in a car park in the desert.
Behind it, and just as curious a
shape, is a pyramid-like building that
contains more than 200 cars and trucks
belonging to a colourful petrolhead
royal. Superlatives come as standard

around these parts: the structure is 45km
south of one of the worlds richest cities
and houses the worlds largest truck,
with four bedrooms inside the cabin and
window wipers from an ocean liner.
Reecting the owners kaleidoscopic
tastes, his hoard includes a rainbowhued collection of classic German cars
and a shiny, disco-themed model. Some
of the vehicles on show here have even
appeared on high-octane TV shows in

the UK. But should you visit, theres no
guarantee youll see all of these quirky
displays. Exhibits can be rolled away at a
moments notice if the royal wants to take
one of his prized possessions for a spin.
Where are you? GRAINNE McBRIDE
To enter, identify the building referred to above.
Correct answers will be placed in a random
prize-draw. For competition rules and prize
details, please turn the page
COMPETITION PRIZE
WIN
A HOLIDAY WORTH 4,000
HOW TO ENTER
Identify the location,
left, and send in your
entry to arrive by
31 May. All correct
entries will also be
included in the Grand
Prize draw at the
end of the current
competition period
(1 October 201330
September 2014).
COMPETITION RULES
1. Entries for the Where Are You?
competition can be sent on a postcard,
by email or online (stating your full
name, address and telephone number),
and must correctly identify the place
described according to the instructions
given. 2. Entries must arrive no later
than the last day of the month on this
issues cover. 3. The Where Are You?
competition is open to readers of Cond
Nast Traveller who are 18 or older on the
date of entry, except for employees of
Cond Nast Publications, participating

promotional agencies, contributors to
Cond Nast Traveller, and the families
of any of the above. Entries by post
should be sent to: Where Are You?
competition, Cond Nast Traveller,
Vogue House, 1 Hanover Square,
London W1S 1JU. Email entries
should be sent to: compcntraveller@
condenast.co.uk. To enter online
and for full terms & conditions, visit
www.cntraveller.com/competitions
and you could win a six-night holiday for two here. The prize
includes accommodation in a Junior Suite with breakfast, return
ights from Heathrow to Mah courtesy of Seychelles Tourism
Board and transfers. The holiday must be taken by May 2015,
excluding 20 December 2014 to 15 January 2015 and 28 March
to 18 April 2015. For more details, contact Africa Travel on
+44 20 7843 3500 or visit www.africatravel.com
FEBRUARYS WINNER
Claire Redfern of Rolleston-on-Dove, Staffordshire
identied Tucson, Arizona as the location where this
picture was taken. She wins a ve-night break for two at
Atlantis The Palm, Dubai.
PHOTOGRAPHS: ALEIX PLADEMUNT; DAN RAMBACH
Never has a cluster of treehouses looked so smart. At ve-star

Constance Lmuria in the Seychelles nature gets top billing. Set
on a lushly forested hillside in the north-west of Praslin island,
this eco-resort has its own turtle conservation programme, a
Shiseido spa and three restaurants, including the Beach Bar &
Grill by the oceans edge where just-caught seafood is cooked
Creole-style. Enter this months Where Are You? competition
READER OFFER
A SPA BREAK IN
AUSTRIA
Save 15 per cent on an energising stay at one

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here are few things more invigorating than a hit of

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by spacious rooms (all with balconies to take in the views),
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the Krnten Therme spa, swimming pools and tness centre.
Cond Nast Traveller readers have the exclusive opportunity to
save 15 per cent on a stay here. Rates include breakfast, a light
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The offer is valid from 15 April to 31 October 2014, excluding
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FOR MORE DETAILS OR TO BOOK

Visit www.karawankenhof.com, call +43 4242 300110 or email
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T R AVELLER AD VERT ISEM EN T FEAT U RE
SONORA RESORT,
BRITISH COLUMBIA,
CANADA
00 1 604 233 0460
johansens.com/sonoraresort
UNFORGETTABLE stays
Nestled in the rainforest archipelago of the Discovery Islands, Sonora

Resort is a luxurious retreat surrounded by raw wilderness. With
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guided wilderness adventures.
Wherever you choose to rest your head this summer, be sure to pick one
of Cond Nast Johansens' ultimate retreats and you won't be disappointed
CONRAD MACAO, COTAI CENTRAL,
KEMPINSKI HOTEL BARBAROS BAY,
TAJ 51 BUCKINGHAM GATE SUITES AND
MACAU, CHINA*
BODRUM, TURKEY
RESIDENCES, LONDON, ENGLAND
00 853 2882 9000

johansens.com/conradmacao
00 90 252 311 03 03
johansens.com/barbaros
020 7769 7766

johansens.com/buckinghamgate
Experience inimitable luxury with two nights in a Deluxe Suite at

Conrad Macao, Cotai Central. During your stay indulge in an invigorating
spa journey at the exceptional Bodhi Spa where ancient Aboriginal, Ayurvedic
and Asian spa traditions are enhanced by modern techniques.
Kempinski Hotel Barbaros Bay welcomes sophisticated travellers to the

most serene part of the Bodrum Peninsula. Sprawled across 70,000m of
picturesque land on the shores of Gokova Bay, this is where fond memories
remembered with a smile are made.
Make the most of London and stay four nights for the price of three at Taj 51
Buckingham Gate Suites and Residences. Offer valid until 31 August 2014
by quoting Cond Nast King. Each of these ve-star luxury suites offers the
exclusivity of a private home complete with separate kitchen and living area.
CAYO ESPANTO A PRIVATE ISLAND,

AMBERGRIS CAYE, BELIZE
00 910 323 8355
johansens.com/cayoespanto
Discover your own private island at Cayo Espanto where paradise and luxury come together as one.
This intimate, ve-star, world-class resort was created for the discriminating few who demand the best
in life. Full island rentals are available.
CHEVAL THREE QUAYS AT THE TOWER OF LONDON, ENGLAND

020 7341 7052
johansens.com/chevalthreequays
Overlooking the River Thames and Tower of London, Cheval Three Quays proudly stands amidst the grandeur and history proffered
by its fascinating neighbourhood. Offering one -, two - and three-bedroom serviced apartments and penthouses,
guests may stay for one night, one week, one month or one year!
THE MULIA & MULIA VILLAS,

BALI, INDONESIA
00 62 361 301 7777
johansens.com/mulia
Nestled on the dramatic coastline of Nusa Dua, The Mulia & Mulia Villas
evokes a relaxed yet polished sensibility. From expansive and elegant
suites to the rened Cascade Lounge and ocean-front pools, its standard of
luxury truly exceeds expectations for style, comfort and service.
THE SPREAD EAGLE HOTEL & SPA,
THE PILLARS HOTEL,
VICEROY BALI,
WEST SUSSEX, ENGLAND
FLORIDA, USA
BALI, INDONESIA
01730 816911
johansens.com/spreadeaglemidhurst
00 1 954 467 9639

johansens.com/pillarshotel
00 62 361 971 777

johansens.com/viceroybali
This is one of Englands most historic and oldest inns. Relax in the hotel and
spa or discover the beauty of the nearby South Downs National Park and
old town of Midhurst. Stay for dinner, bed and breakfast including a glass
of Champagne from 109.50 pp.
Voted one of the top three hotels in Florida by Cond Nast Traveler Readers
Choice Awards in 2012 and 2013, The Pillars Hotel is ideally situated
on the Intracoastal Waterway. Comprising 18 rooms, it offers a casually
elegant and charming experience. Guests are treated to an exceptional level
of service reminiscent of the nest European boutique inns.
Recognised by discriminating travellers as one of the world's most

romantic and elegant boutique hotels, Viceroy Bali comprises 25 luxurious
private pool villas. Majestically situated in Bali's Valley of the Kings, this
piece of paradise marries utmost privacy with ve-star facilities.
CELTIC MANOR RESORT,
THE BAKER HOUSE 1650,
CASTLE LESLIE ESTATE,
NEWPORT, WALES*
NEW YORK, USA
COUNTY MONAGHAN, IRELAND*
01633 410262
johansens.com/celticmanor
00 1 631 324 4081

johansens.com/bakerhouse
00 353 4788 100

johansens.com/castleleslie
Whether its an action-packed break or laid-back getaway, this ve-star resort

offers luxury on a grand scale. Set within 2,000 acres, the exceptional facilities
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two superb spas, six restaurants and many outdoor activities. Relax and unwind
from 152 pp for dinner, bed and breakfast.
Consistently awarded Cond Nast Johansens Most Excellent Inn, The

Baker House 1650s ivy-covered walls and formal English gardens create
a distinctive European feel. State-of-the-art amenities abound and include
three swimming pools, an inviting spa, whilst the Baker Carriage House
offers additional luxury accommodation.
Escape from it all and treat yourself to a nights stay at Castle Leslie Estate
from 96 pp. Offer includes a full Irish breakfast and fabulous dinner in
the 2 AA Rosette awarded Snafes Restaurant. Set in beautiful County
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last great Irish estates.
READER OFFER
Quote Johansens/Traveller Promotion when making your reservation and you will
receive a complimentary bottle of Champagne and room upgrade on all bookings.
Terms and conditions apply. *Not eligible for Reader Offer
PRODUCED BY
PROMOTIONS
LAND +
WATER
ASIA
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP

LEFT: CHECK-IN AT FOUR
SEASONS HOTEL
HANGZHOU, WEST LAKE;
BIFENGXIA GIANT PANDA
CONSERVATION AND
RESEARCH CENTRE; POOL
AT THE RITZ-CARLTON,
TIANJIN; FLAIR AT THE
RITZ-CARLTON, TIANJIN
2013 in the historic quarter by the Hai River.

Launched by The Peninsula Shanghai
(peninsula.com), the Princess 54 provides
breakfast and sundowner yacht cruises along
the Huangpu River that bifurcates Chinas most
hedonistic city. Up to 10 guests can set sail for a
journey taking in the neoclassical and art deco
architecture of the Bund and Pudongs glass-andconcrete skyline, blasted by neon after sunset.
Residing beside Chinas most famous inland lake, Four Seasons Hotel
Hangzhou at West Lake (fourseasons.com/hangzhou) has made
check-in a floating experience. Guests are collected from the airport
and delivered at West Lake pier to board a traditional wooden boat for a
gentle 45-minute cruise to the hotels own mini pier. Here, a Chinese tea
ceremony featuring Longjing tea grown in the surrounding hills will
welcome you in true Hangzhou style.
China's vast landmass is hydrated by an extensive coastline, mighty
rivers and vast lakes. From the snowfields of Harbin in the north to
the southern tropical island of Hainan, the confluence of land and
water is central to the China experience. The capital Beijing is devoid
of signature water features, save from the man-made Kunming Lake
at Summer Palace and Houhai's three lakes. Underwater adventure
is provided in an unlikely location by Beijing-based Sinoscuba
(sinoscuba.com). The firms PADI-qualified founder Steven
Schwankert accompanies groups to dive a section of the Great Wall
of China, flooded in the late 1970s to create the Panjiakou Reservoir.
Adventurous travellers can join Beijing-based Wild China
(wildchina.com) to hike Yosemites sister parks in China.
Beginning beside the mystical West Lake in Hangzhou and
finishing in southwestern Chengdu, the 13-day trip with naturalist
Pete Devine treads up and down Huangshan (Yellow Mountain)
and ventures to Jiuzhaigou National Park for snow-capped
panoramas of its glacial lakes. A visit to the Bifengxia Giant Panda
Conservation and Research Centre is an added bonus.
ASIA CAPSULE WARDROBE

1.
2.
3.
5.
4.
6.
Nicknamed Shanghai of the North for its historic riverside

architecture and shipping port origins, Tianjin is among Chinas most
dynamic cities. Stroll through its storied former French and British
concessions with US-born historian Doug Red, whose Asia Walking
Tours (asiawalkingtours.com) are peppered with stories about
the colourful characters that once called Tianjin home. If staying
overnight, The Ritz-Carlton, Tianjin (ritz-carlton.com) opened in
1 . S H O RT S , 5 0 , L E V I . C O M ; 2 . R AY- B A N F O L D I N G WAY FA R E R S , 1 7 0 ,
SELFRIDGES.COM; 3. BOWERS & WILKINS FOLDABLE HEADPHONES, 169.99,
SELFRIDGES.COM; 4. CARRY ON CASE, 840, GLOBETROTTER1897.COM;
5 . D E N I M S H I R T R E P L A Y X F C B A R C E L O N A , 9 0 , S H O P. R E P L A Y . I T ;
6. CASTAER SUEDE ESPADRILLES, 90, MRPORTER.COM
ASIA
Occupying the southern half of the divided Korean Peninsula, South Korea is flanked
to the east by the Sea of Japan and the Yellow Sea to the west. Around 3,000 (mostly
small) islands complement its mountainous landscapes, of which Jeju Island, about 60
miles south of the mainland, is the most geologically intriguing.
2.
1.
1.
Explore with a seven-day tour by Artisans of Leisure DUWLVDQVRHLVXUHFRP. Immerse

yourself in Seouls ancient and modern history with a private visit to the secret garden at
Changdeokgung Palace and Jongmyo Shrine, plus an excursion to the Demilitarized Zone
at Panmunjeom. Then take a window seat on the train to Gyeongju to visit the royal tombs
and the traditional village of Yangdong. The final destination is southern Jeju Island, with
its rugged geology dominated by Mount Halla, the volcanic cone of Seongsan Ilchulbong
and the volcanic cliffs of Jusangjeolli.
3.
5.
Since the early 1960s, Taiwan has

taken great care to conserve its
diverse natural environment. Its
eight National ParksQSFSDPL
JRYWZHQJOLVK Yushan,
Kenting, Dongsha, Taroko,
Shei-Pa, Kinmen, Taijiang and
Yangmingshan encompass
Mount Jade (Northeast Asias
tallest mountain), ridge
grasslands, vast salt fields and
wetlands, the Da-an river valley
and semi-tropical plateaus.
Offshore the horseshoe-shaped
Dongsha Marine National Park
includes the Dongsha Atoll,
which was formed by a coral
reef that is inhabited
by hundreds of species of
tropical fish.
CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE:

EBIS EL ESCIT AS ENT UT
OMNIMINIA DESTEM. ET
LAUT DOLUT QUID QUE
VOLUPTATE PRO CORRO
ODITAM EUM QUASPERUM
IPSAPIDEBIT LA EA ET
AUTEMQUASI
If you have time to spare in Seoul,

the artful unexpected awaits at the
new National Museum of Modern
and Contemporary ArtPPFDJRNU.
Situated opposite the Gyeongbokgung
Palace, it opened in 2013 and showcases
Korean creativity from the mid-20th
century onwards. Three of the museums six floors are located below ground,
including Seoul Box, a 17-metre-high space created for outsized installations.
Taiwan is a small island nation off Chinas southern coast that was called Ilha
Hermosa (Beautiful Island) by early Portuguese settlers who clearly had an eye
for landscape. Since pre-history, tectonic movements have fashioned Taiwans
photogenic peaks, gorges and river basins, plus its indentured coastlines.
Experience Taiwans rugged unsung splendour courtesy of a 15-day Beautiful
Island trip with Cox & KingsFR[DQGNLQJVFRXN. Drive through the
resplendent Taroko Gorge to the hilly tea estates of Pinglin, and on to Chihpen,
where the coastal road meanders between the Pacific Ocean and undulating
mountains. Other highlights include a ride on the Alishan Forest Railway and a
visit to the revered Sun Moon Lake, Taiwans largest freshwater lake situated in
the heart of the island.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP:

SUN MOON LAKE, TAIWAN;
SUN MOON LAKE AT
SUNSET; TAIPEI'S SKYLINE;
BUDDHIST TEMPLE,
SOUTH KOREA
1. NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD SANDALS, 450, HARVEYNICHOLS.COM; 2. PAUL

& J O E T R A C K P A N T S , 1 5 0 , N E T- A - P O R T E R . C O M ; 3 . C H A R L O T T E O LY M P I A
CLUTCH, 995, MATCHES.COM; 4. LARKSPUR & HAWK EARRINGS,
1 , 3 0 0 , N E T- A - P O RT E R . C O M ; 5 . N E W Y O R K T I M E S 3 6 H O U R S I N A S I A &
OCEANIA, 19.99, TASCHEN.COM
4.
ASIA
Located at the mouth of the Pearl River Delta on Chinas

southern coast, Hong Kongs history is tied inexorably to
the sea, and more specifically, one of the worlds largest
trading ports. Visitors make a beeline for Victoria Harbour,
around which are clustered soaring hotels, restaurants and
cocktail lounges. Beyond the urban heart, more than 200
islands offer undulating hiking and cycling trails, whitesand beaches and small temples.
Hong Kongs most iconic mode of transportation never
loses its timeless charm. Since 1890, the green-and-white
Star Ferry has chugged (starferry.com.hk) back and forth
across Victoria Harbour both day and night. The short
journey between Central and Kowloon is enlivened during
the nightly Festival of Lights show, which illuminates Hong
Kongs skyscraper faades with colourful lights and imagery.

1.
Escape the frenetic melee of downtown

Central and Tsim Sha Tsui for the refined
tranquility of Hong Kongs outlying islands
aboard the Michelangelo Luxury Junk
(luxuryjunk.com.hk), a restored eightyfoot motor yacht with teak sun decks.
Private cruises can be arranged to the secluded beaches of Tai Long Wan
and the three rarely visited Kwo Chau Islands, or simply sail away for a
fresh seafood lunch at Sok Kwu Wan or Cheung Chau.
The Neolithic land formations of Hong Kong Geo Park (geopark.gov.hk)
on the Sai Kung Peninsula in the New Territories are worlds apart from
the angular downtown skyline. Join Walk Hong Kong (walkhongkong.
com) to take on the High Island Geo Trail, a picturesque trek that
meanders around and across dramatic rock columns, terraces and
horseshoe bays formed by volcanic eruptions 140 million years ago.
2.
3.
4.
3.
Harbour-view dining has been elevated to an art form in Hong Kong.

Fine Michelin-starred French cuisine at Petrus in Island Shangri-La
Hong Kong (shangri-la.com) is accompanied by sweeping (56th-floor)
panoramas across Victoria Harbour and beyond. The citys myriad
Michelin-accredited venues also include Spoon by Alain Ducasse at
Intercontinental Hong Kong (ihg.com/intercontinental) and Pierre at
Mandarin Oriental (mandarinoriental.com/hongkong).
5.
6.
1. RAG & BONE BACKPACK, 260, MATCHES.COM; 2. HOLLAND ESQUIRE

BLAZER, 450, HOLLANDESQUIRE.COM; 3. BULLDOG PHOTOGRAPHIC
P R I N T S W I M S H O RT S , 2 2 5 , O R L E B A R B R O W N . C O . U K ; 4 . G L E N N B E LT 4 0 ,
ORLEBARBROWN.CO.UK; 5. LUCA SNEAKER, 100, SWIMS.COM;
6.CHARVET PRINTED SILK LAPEL FLOWER, 90, MRPORTER.COM
For a pre- or post-dinner cocktail, Felix on the 28th floor of The Peninsula
Hong Kong (peninsula.com), with its avant-garde interior design by
Philippe Starck, remains Kowloons chicest perch to gaze over the
Central skyline and the reflections of its neon-lit skytowers in the dark
waters. Across the harbour, recline in one of the clubby brown leather
sofas at Caprice Bar at Four Seasons Hong Kong (fourseasons.com/
hongkong) to pair fine wines and Champagne with a wooden platter
selection from Hong Kongs largest list of imported French cheeses.
CLOCKWISE: THE HIGH

ISLAND GEO TRAIL; ON
BOARD MICHELANGELO;
MICHELANGELO IN
ACTION; CAPRICE BAR
AT FOUR SEASONS HONG
KONG; PIERRE AT
MANDARIN ORIENTAL;
FELIX AT THE
PENINSULA
HONG KONG
Clockwise from top:

Angsana Lang C,
Central Vietnam; the
pool at Angsana
Bintan, Indonesia;
meeting the elephant
at Angsana Laguna
Phuket, Thailand
asian ADVENTURE
Angsana Hotels & Resorts sublime natural surroundings and profusion

of activities make it the clear front-runner with guests of all ages, and
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cean breeze in your hair, cerulean waters
lapping at your feet When you crave
immaculate luxury against a natural backdrop,
Banyan Tree is the trusted go-to. Angsana is the
brands younger sibling designed for active couples and
families, where rejuvenation of mind, body and soul is
always on the menu. Their philosophy of enhancing
their guests' health and wellbeing is matched by Jax
Coco, one of the purest, best tasting coconut waters
available today.
award-winning Angsana Spa or play a round of golf

before reuniting with the children at the Tree House
Kids Club and meet the resident baby elephant.
Prefer your daytime more high-octane? Join a diving
expedition or try lagoon kayaking. Alternatively take
a trip to the Phi Phi or Similan islands.
Angsana Laguna Phuket is positioned on beautiful

Bang Tao Bay, overlooking the Andaman Sea. The
resort understands the ne balance that equals a
successful family holiday downtime for parents,
shared experiences and kids can eat, stay and play for
free. The Tree House Kids Club here is every parents
godsend providing activities for all ages, getting out
and about on the beach and with nature.
The hip new kid on the block in Southeast Asia is

Angsana Lang C, positioned close to three
UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Central Vietnam
the imperial city of Hue, My Son Cham Kingdom
and the old town of Hoi An.
Check into a Two-Bedroom Loft for family resort
living at its nest. Keen golfers will relish hours on
the championship golf
course designed by Sir Nick
Faldo, while stressed-out
parents can regain serenity
with yoga classes in the
garden pavilion. At the
Angsana Kids Club,
children can try their hands
at arts and crafts including
traditional lantern making.
While they play, take time for yourself or with your

other half. Recline poolside before lunching at XANA
Beach Club; the barefoot chic beach club serving
Mediterranean and Thai dishes in private cabaas.
Indulge in an afternoon Bamboo Massage at the
What sets this resort apart

is its commitment to
authenticity and location.
Rice Bowl restaurant is a
tribute to Asian rice dishes.
Family-oriented and elegant, we have found three

Angsana resorts in Thailand, Vietnam and Indonesia
that feature a variety of facilities that are a sure-re hit
with children and adults.
The idyllic beachfront is framed by the Truong Son

Mountains, so, on arrival youre instantly at one
with nature. At the Laguna Water Sports Centre
you and the children can have a blast sailing or
windsurng.
Angsana Bintan is an Indonesian island escape
just 45 minutes by catamaran from Singapore.
Remote in feel, its a haven for nature lovers, water
sports enthusiasts and golfers. All rooms and suites
feature views across the South China Sea and the
Two-Bedroom Suites are the ideal choice for
families. Nature is also paramount here; the on-site
Conservation Lab employs a team of botanists and
rangers. Join the nature walk to spot the resident
Hawksbill turtles. After sunset dine on exceptional
chilli crab at the elegant Fishermans Table.
This spring, Jax Coco is launching
an exciting new range for children.
Made from the nest micro-ltered,
pure coconut water, fruit puree or
cocoa, each pack of Jax Coco Kidz
boasts zero added sugar and is
preservative free. At less than 50
calories per 110ml pack, it makes a
delicious, nutritious drink for active
kids on their travels.
To discover your next family
escape go to angsana.com/en/jaxcoco or
call 00800 300 200 00
ASIA
Macau, a former Portuguese trading port on the southern tip of China is a

fascinating mix of old and new, glitz and history. A stroll around Macau's
charming old city reveals 17th-century fortress ramparts, handsome
European churches and Chinese pharmacies tended by abacus-counting
shopkeepers. In total contrast, Macau is also home to some of the planets
glitziest casino resorts. Cavernous gaming citadels on the man-made Cotai
Strip (cotaistrip.com) are bathed in auspicious gold and red, and offer
luxury hotels, fine dining, theme parks and brand shopping.
Self-styled as the 'Las Vegas of the East', Macau is also building a
reputation for lavish evening entertainment away from the baccarat tables.
Created and directed by Franco Dragone, The House of Dancing Water
1. MICHAEL KORS SILK BLOUSE, 190, HARVEYNICHOLS.COM; 2. BURBERRY LEATHER

T O T E , 6 8 5 , S T Y L E B O P. C O M ; 3 . T H A K O O N L E A T H E R S H O R T S , 4 8 0 , M Y - W A R D R O B E . C O M ;
4 . E M M A C O O K S W E AT S H I R T, 3 0 0 , M AT C H E S . C O M ; 5 . M O T H E R O F P E A R L P U M P S , 2 5 0 ,
S E L F R I D G E S . C O M ; 6 . V I TA F E D E B R A C E L E T, 2 0 5 , H A R V E Y N I C H O L S . C O M
(thehouseofdancingwater.com) at the City of Dreams in Cotai is a compelling water-
based show combining music, dance, acrobatics, laser lighting and choreographed
fountains, inspired by the fabled origins of the Macau peninsula.
Often overlooked by trippers making a quick recce to the old city, Macau Museum
(macaumuseum.gov.mo) charts the peninsulas history from its Chinese origins
through three centuries of Portuguese rule to the handover back to China in 1999. Built
into a 17th-century fortress, its original exhibits include Macanese cookings fusion
of Cantonese ingredients and African spices, the citys
once power-packed fireworks industry and elaborate
miniature coffins of deceased prize-fighting crickets,
who were deigned mini heroes by local gamblers.
Daring travellers can survey the landscape from
upon high by taking the Skywalk X, an enervating
walk around the outer rim of the Macau Tower
(macautower.com.mo) that affords vertiginous

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panoramas of Macau, the islands, coastline and the Chinese

border. Ultimate adventurers will also want to take on the worlds
highest bungee jump. The Macau Towers 233-metre descent,
managed by AJ Hackett (ajhackett.com/macau), provides a
unique upside-down perspective of Macau.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP

LEFT: THE HOUSE OF
DANCING WATER; MACAU
GOLF & COUNTRY CLUB;
MACAU AT NIGHT; ST
PAUL'S CATHEDRAL;
SKYWALK X,
MACAU TOWER
Away from the casinos, malls and entertainment venues of Cotai,

more leisurely pursuits await on leafy Coloane Island. Golfers
will enjoy practising their swing on the sea-facing driving range
at the Macau Golf & Country Club (mgccmacau.com), adjacent to The Westin Resort,
Macau, where balls are launched directly from the tee into the ocean. Afterwards,
head to Coloanes quaint village square and order some of the semi-legendary
pasteis de nata, a Portuguese sweet custard tart, served at
Lord Stows Garden Caf (lordstow.com).
ASIA

2.
1.
3.
5.
4.
6.

LAUT DOLUT QUID QUE
VOLUPTATE PRO CORRO
AUTEMQUASI
7.
1 . C 3 M A LV E R N C H R O N O G R A P H M K I I , 2 1 5 ,
CHRISTOPHERWARD.CO.UK; 2. LUXE BANGKOK 12TH EDITION,
3.99, LUXECITYGUIDES.COM; 3. LORO PIANA CASHMERE AND
S I L K - B L E N D S C A R F, 5 2 0 , M R P O R T E R . C O M ; 4 . G U C C I A V I A T O R
SUNGLASSES, 210, MRPORTER.COM; 5.AMI WASHED COTTONTWILL SHORTS, 125, MRPORTER.COM; 6.TEDDY JUMPER, 98,
UK.EDEN-PARK.COM; 7. PENNY LOAFER,105, SWIMS.COM
Shaped like an elephants head, the nation known as the Land of

Smiles curves around the Gulf of Thailand. The elephants trunk,
which separates the gulf and the Andaman Sea, is flanked by tropical
beaches and islands on both sides, and is the only land route from
Southeast Asia to the Malay Peninsula.
On arrival, sample the capitals pulsing urban buzz before
escaping to gentler pastures with Co van Kessel Bangkok Tours
(covankessel.com), which transports guests by classic railway
to the outskirts. After disembarking, jump onto a mountain bike
for a ride through rural landscapes passing Buddhist temples and
mosques. The bikes are then loaded onto a traditional longtail boat
for a leisurely sail along Bangkoks narrow canals, where waterborne
traders sell fruits and vegetables from small wooden boats.
Having enjoyed a taster of Thailands alluring diversity, immerse
yourself further in its landscapes on a 12-day Natural Escape with
Audley Travel (audleytravel.com). Get up close and personal
with elephants at Khao Sok National Park, canoe down a river
passing limestone pinnacles and dense jungle that creeps right up to
the riverbank, and stay on a floating tent at picturesque Cheow Larn
Lake. Complete your Thai sojourn by relaxing on the quiet beaches
of Khao Lak, or take a boat trip to spot dolphins in the nearby
marine national park.
Seafront resorts, sandy beaches and lively nightlife helped build
Phukets chic-retreat reputation, and the relaxed island vibe also
provides inspiration to try your hand at Thai cooking. The expert
chefs at Blue Elephant Cooking School (blueelephant.com) in the
historic centre of Phuket Town, use recipes passed down through
the generations to teach you how to prepare a spicy and sour prawn
soup, green chicken curry or a deep-fried crab meat souffl.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP

LEFT: POOL VILLA AT
THE SIAM, BANGKOK;
KAYAKING IN KHAO
SOK NATIONAL PARK;
AMPAHWA FLOATING
MARKET, SAMUT
SONGKHRAM
Back in Bangkok, watch the dramatic sunset with a Sundowners

Happy Hour drink on the open-fronted 25th-floor balcony at
Long Table (longtablebangkok.com) with the capitals
skyline as your stage, or ascend even higher to the roofless 61stfloor Moon Bar at Banyan Tree Bangkok (banyantree.com),
which really feels as if you are sitting on top of the city.
After all that elevated action, bed down in style at the 39-room
The Siam (thesiamhotel.com), where the trad-mod design
is inspired by Bangkoks late 19th-century aesthetic. The rooms
and interiors are decorated with antiques and artworks from the
personal collection of its Thai rock star owner. Drift off to sleep
by dreaming of tomorrows riverside pampering in a private
suite at the hotels Opium Spa, followed by a barge cruise along
the Chao Phraya River to view Wat Pho and the Grand Palace.

Clockwise from top:
exterior of The
Fullerton Hotel,
Singapore; main lobby
at The Fullerton Bay
Hotel, Singapore;
Lantern at The
Fullerton Bay Hotel
TRAILof legacy
Beyond Singapores skyscraper-clad exterior this city state is imbued with
history, colonial credentials and cultural diversity. The Fullerton Hotel and
The Fullerton Bay Hotel exemplify this split personality with opulent aplomb
t is impossible to be underwhelmed by Singapores
Fullerton Hotel and Fullerton Bay Hotel. Both
command your attention with architectural prowess,
jaw-dropping views, exquisite interiors and a sense of
place. Understated, no, yet both retain renement,
giving a nod to the citys colonial heritage.
The grand dame is the iconic Fullerton Hotel. Built

in 1928 it boasts an illustrious past and was home to
the nations Post Ofce and Chamber of
Commerce. Distinguished Doric columns and
coffered ceilings mark its Palladian roots but are
fused with slick luxurious touches.
light fantastic
Cultural hotspots like the Asian Civilisations
Museum and the Esplanade (Theatres on the Bay)
are within walking distance. Venture further aeld for
quintessential Singaporean experiences like the River

Safari, Gardens by the Bay and Merlion Park.
Perched at the top of The Fullerton Hotel is The
Lighthouse Restaurant & Rooftop Bar where you
can indulge in cocktails and Italian stuzzichini.
Housed on the site of the original 18th-century
lighthouse, today the atmosphere is buzzing.
Exceptional skyline vistas mean it is the ultimate spot
to watch the nightly Marina Bay Light Show.
The veranda of the Governor Suite boasts a birds eye
view of Anderson Bridge, the hairpin bend in the
Singapore Grand Prix. Suite-staying guests can also
enjoy privileges of The Straits Club, including
Champagne breakfast.
Experience afternoon tea in The Courtyard, featuring
an after-dark jazz quartet and chocolate buffet. Post
Bar is an integral part of the on-trend social scene. A
dip in the innity pool is the essential prelude to a
heavenly Red Flower Massage at The Spa Artisan.
Across the road at The Fullerton Bay Hotel, an earthy
colour palette is offset by standout design features.
From the chandelier in the lobby holding court from
its dramatic suspension to the lit-from-within lanternshaped bar at Lantern (the hotel's aptly named
rooftop bar), Andre Fus design vision is arresting.
Modernity is the name of the game here and the
hotel is earning an acclaimed reputation. Lantern,
with its vast innity pool and lush foliage set against
the skyline, is the place to be seen.
The 100 rooms and suites are decorated in Asian

rosewood with chrome embellishment and accents
of ivory limestone. The six suites are individually
themed to reect the cultures intrinsic to
Singapores identity.
Food acionados will love Clifford, serving up
classic French bistro dishes with a twist. The lobster
and scallop carpaccio is otherworldly as are the
vintages from the 800-strong wine library. At
Lantern, it is all about the Wagyu Short Rib Mini
Burgers while The Landing Points signature
Afternoon Tea is light-bite genius.
Both hotels offer complimentary Guided Heritage
tours. Choose from the Hotel or Maritime Journey
tour, or better book both.
Discover more at fullertonhotel.com and
fullertonbayhotel.com. Alternatively,
email reservations@fullertonhotel.com
ASIA
Bordered by Thailand, Laos, China, Bangladesh
and India, Myanmar (formerly Burma) has shaken
off its long-standing political shackles, and the
rich blend of ancient ruins, golden pagodas and
undeveloped coastlines are welcoming more
visitors than ever. Challenges exist, notably a
lack of hotel rooms and patchy infrastructure,
but Myanmar boasts a rare appeal for travellers
with a passion for adventure.
A leisurely cruise along the Ayeyarwady River
reveals the beguiling sense of romance of
Myanmars forested interior. In November
2014, Ama Waterways (amawaterways.com)
will debut its AmaPura cruise ship featuring
28 private suites, each with its own balcony.
Voyages depart from the former capital Yangon,
bound for the second city of Mandalay, via
the ancient ruins of Bagan and Mount Popa,
the spiritual home of Burmese Buddhists.
On arrival in Mandalay, excursions to the
Mahamuni Pagoda and Shwendaw monastery
are complemented by a visit to the nearby
town of Amarapura, home of the U Bein Bridge
the longest teak bridge in the world.
Myanmars uncluttered coastlines seem certain
to elevate it to a beach destination, with several
big-name resorts promised. Ngapali Beach is a
1 . M A R N I P R I N T E D P V C T O T E , 1 8 0 , N E T- A - P O RT E R . C O M ; 2 . C A R D I G A N , 1 2 9 , E M U A U S T R A L I A . C O M ;
3 . F R A G R A N T H E A RT: A TA L E O F L O V E , L I F E A N D F O O D I N S O U T H - E A S T A S I A , 8 . 9 9 , A M A Z O N . C O . U K ;
4. MARC BY MARC JACOBS IPHONE 5 COVER, 40, SELFRIDGES.COM; 5. CUTLER AND GROSS AVIATOR
S U N G L A S S E S , 3 1 0 , N E T- A - P O RT E R . C O M ; 6 . E T R O C O T T O N F E D O R A , 1 2 5 , N E T- A - P O RT E R . C O M ;
7 . G U C C I S A N D A L S , 4 9 0 , N E T- A - P O RT E R . C O M

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prime location. The 24 private wooden bungalows at Amara Ocean Resort

(amaragroup.net) are nestled among palm trees and overlook white
sands and the Indian Ocean. Waterborne activities include a yacht trip
around coastal islets or a fishing expedition to catch barracuda. Guests
preferring to stay on terra firma can visit monks in a nearby monastery or
hike across the fields to local villages.
6.
7.
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT:

SUNSET OVER BAGAN;
U BEIN BRIDGE,
AMARAPURA; ANCHORED
DOWN WITH BURMA
BOATING; OLD
RESIDENTIAL BUILDING,
YANGON; ROOM ABOARD
THE AMAPURA; SAILING
WITH BURMA BOATING
The Mergui Archipelago is a cluster of 800 remote

islands off Myanmars southern coast, and is a
dedicated national marine park. Between November
and April, the Austrian captain of Burma Boating
(burmaboating.com) sails up to eight guests on
six-day/five-night cruises on the Meta IV, a twin-masted
private yacht made from Thai teak. The rarely visited
islands present white-sand beaches for sunbathing and
starlight barbecues, diving, snorkelling and fishing, and a chance to meet
and talk with the local sea nomads who sail the waters in dugout canoes.
Guests fortunate enough to find themselves at the hill station of Taunggyi
near Inle Lake (inlelake-myanmar.com) in November can catch the
spectacular week-long Taunggyi Fire Balloon Festival. Coinciding with
the full moon, scores of giant paper balloons, often handmade in the
shapes of animals, are released each night into the sky. Year-round, the
nearby Kakku Pagodas are a stunning collection of 2,400 stupas built
several centuries ago. During the spring full moon, the pagodas are a holy
destination for Buddhist pilgrims.
Summer in Thailand.
A luxury holiday in a place where the sun shines every day. Where you have a choice
of city, beach, island, and tropical forest. Where the culture is enchanting and the
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ASIA
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP

LEFT: AERIAL VIEW OF
PANGULASIAN ISLAND;
THE TEEMING
UNDERWATER WORLD
AT EL NIDO RESORT;
ENTALULA ISLAND
BEACH AREA; LOCAL
IFUGAO PEOPLE;
ELEGANTLY LANDSCAPED
RICE TERRACES
kilometre long, coconut-white sandbar that locals say

resembles a snakes tongue.
Directly north of Indonesia, east of the Indochina Peninsula and

southeast of China, the Philippines is a collection of 7,107 islands spread
across 300,000 square kilometres of land in the western Pacific Ocean.
The vast geography, allied with being ruled by both the Spanish and the
Americans, means numerous cultures, languages and traditions are found
across the various island groupings.
For that ultimate feeling of castaway seclusion, the

island of Camiguin (camiguin.gov.ph) is just 23
kilometres long and 24 kilometres wide. The cool waters
cascading down the 70-metre Katibawasan Falls, near
Mambajao, are truly spectacular, while warmer aquatic
pleasures can be enjoyed at the Esperanza Ardent mineral
hot springs, where the water bubbles at 40 degrees Celsius. A
rainforest hike and riverboat ride deliver hardy explorers to
the serene Tuawasan Falls, but if that sounds a little energetic,
head instead to uninhabited White Island, a pristine sandbar
set against the backdrop of a dormant volcano to swim or relax
many miles from the madding crowds.
1 . C A S H M E R E F L I G H T S O C K S , 3 2 , T H E W H I T E C O M P A N Y. C O M ; 2 . K E N N E D Y L E AT H E R
C A R D H O L D E R , 1 1 0 , M AT C H E S . C O M ; 3 . K O L O R P A N E L L E D C O T T O N - B L E N D T- S H I R T,
2 7 0 , M R P O R T E R . C O M ; 4 . P U M P S B Y V O L L E Y, 4 4 . 9 9 , F O O TA S Y L U M . C O M ;
5. SWEAT SHORTS, 125, ORLEBARBROWN.CO.UK; 6. SPECTRA 2.0 BLACK CARRY
O N , 2 9 5 , V I C T O R I N O X . C O M ; 7 . L A G O T T O S C A R F, 1 7 , T U C A N O U R B A N O . C O . U K ;
8 . W H I T E G E R A N I U M B AT H & S H O W E R C L E A N S E R , 1 8 , T H E W H I T E C O M P A N Y. C O M
Traverse the swirling rapids in the mountain foothills west of Davao City for
arguably the best whitewater rafting in the Philippines. Travel Davao (traveldavao.com) manages small groups of daredevils eager to take on the Davao
River, a 10-kilometre river quest of pure adrenaline-charged action.

1.
Even among the Philippines mesmeric landscapes, the elegantly

landscaped Banaue rice terraces stand out as a highlight. Located in the
Cordilleras region of Luzon island, and designated as one of five UNESCO
World Heritage Sites in the Philippines, the fertile mountain terraces were
sculpted over 2,000 years by the local Ifugao people, who live in the
villages that cascade down the slopes. As the name suggests, Rice Terraces
Banaue (riceterracesbanaue.com) takes visitors on guided treks along the
rice terraces to nearby waterfalls and indigenous settlements.
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The western Palawan archipelago comprises more than 1,750 islands.

The emerald waters of the secluded Bacuit Bay harbour the seemingly
endless stretches of sand of Pangulasian Island, which is accessible
only by boat. The 24 beach villas and six pool villas at El Nido Resort
(elnidoresorts.com) are just a few minutes from pristine coral reefs
frequented by hundreds of species of tropical fish. If snorkelling or
diving isnt your thing, guided tours are offered to the nearby Cathedral
and Cudugnon Caves, and Snake Island, so-named because of its three-
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LIVE
like a
lord
Laid-back luxury and high style combine at award-winning,

six-star The Mulia - Nusa Dua
Clockwise from top:

Oasis pool at The
Mulia; The Earl
Suite Ocean View;
Mulia Spa.
on Cond Nast Travelers Hot List of the best new

hotels in the world. All 111 rooms are expansive,
airy suites with vast balconies and stunning
sunrise views over the Indian Ocean. A personal
butler will ensure you have nothing to do but
relax. Public spaces are opulent, furnished with
pale wood, muted silks and marble the colour
of sand, echoing the beach beyond. Afternoon
tea of cocktails and canaps is taken in the
Cascade Lounge overlooking the sublime, statuelined Oasis pool, blending with sea and sky into
one expanse of blue.
gourmet style
icture an island paradise and chances are youre
thinking of Bali. Crystalline waters, white sand
beaches, palm trees stretching up to cloudless
skies. Bali is this but so much more. Hindu
temples scatter the island, delicate ower offerings
litter pavements and traditional music and dance still
thrive. This rich culture blends harmoniously with
world-class surng, diving and a reputation as one of
the most luxurious holiday destinations on earth.
Picture that island paradise again. That is Nusa Dua
in southern Bali, where youll nd The Mulia,
member of The Leading Hotels of the World and a
haven of tranquility, elegance and indulgence.
suite talking
The Mulia opened in 2013 and the same year featured
There are eight restaurants and bars to choose

from. Try beachfront Soleil for Mediterranean
and pan-Asian cuisine - its Sunday brunch is a
local institution, or elegant Edogin for exquisite
sushi and teppanyaki. The most sought-after
tables on Bali are at The Caf, with live cooking
stations serving international dishes to order. Try
hip Sky Bar for a sundowner and you might
encounter a band of kecak dancers winding
through the resort.
spa indulgence
On an island famed for its wellness retreats the
Mulia Spa is one of the nest. Based on the
ancient wisdom of Senus Per Aquam, or healing
through water, a wide range of hydrotherapy treatments

plus a fusion of Asian and western techniques will sooth
and restore your body and soul. The wellness suite includes
a hammam, sauna, aroma steam room, ice fountain room
and outdoor hydro-tonic pool to relieve aches and pains.
The whole experience is one of unrelenting bliss in this
very special corner of paradise.
For more information please visit
themulia.com/en/the-mulia-overview or call
(31) 6417 85520 or email info.EUR@themulia com
ASIA
converted into boutique hotels, bars and cafes. Penangs

pride and joy is the Eastern & Oriental Hotel (eohotels.
com), a timeless doyen founded in 1885 by the Armenian
Sarkies brothers, who also developed Raffles Singapore
and The Strand, Yangon. Sipping a cool drink on the
E&Os grand stone terrace while gazing across the
Andaman Sea is a quintessential Penang pleasure.
Reachable only by boat, Japamala Resort (secret-retreats.
com/japamala) is nestled where rainforest-clad hills
converge with the sea on Tioman Island off Malaysias
east coast. Thirteen Malaysian kampung-style wooden
villas overlook the emerald waters of the South China
Sea. If you can drag yourself away from a beach lounger,
snorkelling here is among the best in the region.
J A C K E T, 2 2 5 , H E N R I L L O Y D . C O M ; 8 . J . C R E W S H O R T S , 6 5 , M R P O R T E R . C O M ; 9 . L U M I N O X W AT C H , 3 2 5 , M R P O R T E R . C O M
1. NEW BALANCE SUEDE TRAINERS, 105, MRPORTER.COM; 2. HICKIES ELASTIC LACES, 9, HICKIES.COM;
3 . O S K A R B A C K P A C K , 1 5 0 , L I B E R T Y. C O . U K ; 4 . B A X T E R S O F C A L I F O R N I A S K I N K I T, 4 5 , M R P O R T E R . C O M ; 5 . B O W E R S
& W I L K I N S E A R P H O N E S , 1 4 9 . 9 9 , S E L F R I D G E S . C O M ; 6 . A N D E R S O N ' S W O V E N B E LT, 6 0 , M A T C H E S . C O M ; 7 . C A M P B E L L

LAUT DOLUT QUID QUE
VOLUPTATE PRO CORRO
AUTEMQUASI
Waterborne transport is also the only way to arrive at

Gaya Island Resort (gayaislandresort.com) in the Tunku
Abdul Rahman Marine Park off the coast of Borneo,

3.
where an ancient rainforest and mangroves surround the hillside villas

and spa suites. Take to the waters to explore the island by kayak, or try
your hand at blowpipe marksmanship, using the hunting weapon of
the indigenous Murut tribe. As evening beckons, the ochre and peachtinted sunset is best viewed from the deck of a private yacht sailing
through the archipelago.
1.
Back on the Sabah mainland, Riverbug (riverbug.asia) will guide you on

a scenic ride from Beaufort railway station aboard a historic train dating
from the late 19th century. The journey winds through Sabahs verdant
tropical valleys to Pangi, where adrenaline junkies grab their whitewater
rafting gear and prepare for a thrilling navigation of the fast-flowing
Padas River, where the imposingly named rapids include Break Point,
Cobra and Lambada.
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Make a Veranda Suite with floor-to-ceiling windows your temporary

home while sailing the Andaman Sea and Malacca Straits with Seabourn
Cruises (seabourn.com). Departing from Singapore, the 12-day Myanmar
& Malaysia voyage hugs Malaysias western coastline, with stops at Port
Klang, Pangkor Island and the historic port cities of Penang and Malacca,
before cruising north to the Thai island of Phuket and Yangon, the British
colonial capital of Myanmar.
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From cool highland tea plantations to humid mangroves and palmlined tropical beaches, Malaysias diverse landscapes span the Malay
Peninsula, the heavily forested provinces of Sabah and Sarawak on the
island of Borneo, plus the small island of Labuan.
The northern island of Penang is home to the UNESCO World Heritage city of
Georgetown, where colonial mansions and pastel-shaded shop-houses are fast being
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP

LEFT: JAPAMALA
RESORT; REVOLVING
DOORS OF THE
EASTERN &
ORIENTAL, PENANG;
THE GRAND ENTRANCE
OF EASTERN &
ORIENTAL; DINING AT
GAYA ISLAND RESORT
ASIA
Lodged in the southwest corner of the Indochina peninsula, Cambodia is synonymous

with the ancient Khmer temple ruins of Angkor, which draw millions of visitors each year,
and the Mekong River running from north to south. Its rapidly globalising capital, Phnom
Penh, is increasingly noted as a regional centre of cuisine and boasts some fine hotels.
Fly by private helicopter with Remote Lands (remotelands.com) to the base of the
Cardamom Mountains to hike among southwest Cambodias seldom-visited forests
and river valleys. Visit Bokor Palace, a former French hill station and casino, once
frequented by holidaying French elites to escape the tropical heat, and Kompong
Trachs secret world of hidden limestone caves, and Wat Kirisan, located at the base of
Phnom Sor mountain.
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6.

LAUT DOLUT QUID QUE
VOLUPTATE PRO CORRO
AUTEMQUASI
A different option to the Phnom Penh/

Siem Reap trail is to join All Points East
(allpointseast.com) for the 10-day Beyond
Angkor tour to less exalted ancient gems,
such as the sacred Phnom Kulen mountain,
the pre-Angkor ruined cities of Sambor
Prei Kuk and the Khmer Rouge stronghold
of Anlong Veng. Forays to explore the stylish French colonial
architecture of Battambang and the scenic coastal town of Kep
complete the itinerary.
To the north of Cambodia is the landlocked nation of Laos, which is
sandwiched between Thailand to the west and Vietnam to the east,
and also shares borders with China, Myanmar and Cambodia itself.
Shaped like a four-leafed clover, Laos is an emerging destination for
jungle and wilderness-oriented adventure, plus the sedate pleasures
on offer in the quaint riverside town of Luang Prabang.
The tropical forested landscapes around the northern Laos
town of Vingsay are dotted with jagged karst pinnacles. Join
Khiri Travel (khiri.com) for a Lost in Laos adventure beginning
with a cruise along the Ou River followed by stepping inside
the karsts to explore chambered limestone caves used by the
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP:

THE LUANG SAY
RESIDENCE, LUANG
PRABANG; BEDROOM
INTERIOR AT LUANG SAY
RESIDENCE; VILLAGE
CHILDREN ON THE BANKS
OF THE OU RIVER;
SAFFRON-ROBED MONKS
AT ANGKOR WAT; REMOTE
BEAUTY SPOT IN
NORTHERN LAOS
Laos revolutionaries during the

Indochina war. Complete the
journey at the beguiling Plain of
Jars, where hundreds of gigantic
stone goblets are mysteriously
scattered across the hills.
Tranquility abounds in beguiling
Luang Prabang where gilded
temples and beautiful, colonial
architecture are nestled
amid forested riverbanks in
the heart of Laos. Lightfoot
Travel (lightfoottravel.com)
recommends taking a sunrise
walk along the quiet dusty
streets as saffron-robed monks
forage in search of alms. Once
daylight has established itself
over Luang Prabang, take to an
elephants back for a once-in-alifetime trek through untouched jungle
and along the banks of the Nam Khan
escorted by local mahouts.
1 . A F R I C A N W O O D S B R A C E L E T, 8 . 4 0 , T R A S H N E S S . C O M ; 2 . T O M M Y T T- S H I R T,
95, ORLEBARBROWN.CO.UK; 3. REIVER HOLDALL, 339, CHAPMANBAGS.COM;
4 . P E R R O S B L U E S H O R T S , 8 9 , O L I V E R S W E E N E Y. C O M ; 5 . O S C A R S U N G L A S S E S ,
162, ARCHIBALDOPTICS.COM; 6. NIKON COOLPIX AW120, 329.99,
N I K O N . C O . U K ; 7 . G A I T E S A N D A L S , 9 5 , O L I V E R S W E E N E Y. C O M
7.
ASIA
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP

LEFT: SUNSET CABANA AT
ALILA VILLAS ULUWATU;
SAILING AROUND THE
ARCHIPELAGOS ON THE
SILOLONA; POOL AT THE
MULIA; ROCK BAR AT
AYANA RESORT
The worlds largest archipelago comprises 17,504 islands straddling the

equator between the Indian and Pacific oceans. The astonishing breadth
and diversity of Indonesias tropical landscapes ranges from familiar
islands like Sumatra, Java and Bali to uninhabited and unexplored
outcrops, many of which remain unnamed to this day.
Created by a volcanic explosion 100,000 years ago, Lake Toba is the
largest lake in Southeast Asia. Situated almost 1,000 metres above sea
level, the island of Samosir (samosirtourism.com) caused by the
collapse of the volcanic cone in the centre of the lake is a similar size
to Singapore. Active guests will enjoy hiking to small villages and cycling
in the forested hills, while the spectacular sunset over the lake is best
1 . W O M E N ' S B A N D A N A S H I R T, 6 0 , L E V I . C O M ; 2 . K O R A O R G A N I C S B Y M I R A N D A K E R R , 1 5 7 ,
N E T- A - P O RT E R . C O M ; 3 . N I K O N D 3 3 0 0 S L R C A M E R A , 5 9 9 . 9 9 , N I K O N . C O . U K ; 4 . L E V I ' S 5 0 1
J E A N S , 9 0 , L E V I . C O M ; 5 . T O RY B U R C H T R A I N E R S , 1 6 5 , N E T- A - P O RT E R . C O M ; 6 . T O I L E
I S A B E L M A R A N T B E LT, 1 0 5 , N E T- A - P O R T E R . C O M

decorated with Indonesian art. Leisurely private voyages point the compass towards
the remote tribes of Irian Jaya, and the remote Spice Islands, which were a staging post
for global trade in the 17th century.
Alternatively, depart from Bali on a 10-day Sea Safari aboard the Tiger Blue with
Ampersand Travel (ampersandtravel.com). The personalised tours and private
charters include an opportunity to spot Komodo dragons in their natural habitat
on the islands of Komodo and Rinca, plus laid-back voyaging to explore the
incredible biodiversity of Sumba-Flores, the Banda Islands, Raja Ampat and
Cenderawasih Bay Marine National Park, West Papua,
which has been dubbed the Galpagos of the East
because of its miscellany of aquatic species, including
rare whale sharks.
Sometimes a Bali bliss-out is the only logical option.
Experience the famous Ulutawu sundown from Sunset
Cabana, an open-fronted wooden lounge with daybeds
overlooking the Indian Ocean at Alila Villas Uluwatu

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(alilahotels.com/uluwatu). Along the coast, Rock Bar at

Ayana Resort (ayanaresort.com) sits at the base of a near-
vertical cliff and is accessible only by an inclinator.

Book a front-row seat for the spectacular natural
performance, as waves crash onto the rocks underneath
the suspended glass-and-bamboo deck as the blazing pink
sun dips beyond the horizon.
enjoyed with a cool drink to hand at Samosir Villa Resort (samosirvillaresort.com).
Sail the archipelagos east of Bali on a Phinisi yacht to swim among turtles and linger
awhile on deserted beaches. Constructed in the style of Sulawesis master boat
builders, the twin-masted Silolona (silolona.com) offers teak decks and five cabins
Across the island in Nusa Dua, make one of the nobly named Duke or
Royal suites at The Mulia (themulia.com) your abode for the night. Wake up
in regal style to breakfast on the sea-view balcony, and plan a day of
indulgence at the crme-marbled Mulia Spa for a traditional Balinese massage
and stimulating water therapy.

Clockwise from top
Clockwise from left:
left: Villa Suite at
Ibustotae consedis
Hoshinoya Okinawa
aribusanto ilibusResort
res on Taketomi
consectat ipitasse
idus aut
Island;
Beach on
mo omnis ma dolo
ipsum Island;
Taketomi
esciet eos ditia Traditional Okinawan
doluptatque la qui
roofquias
withsired tiles;
Coral reef near
Yaeyama Islands;
Aerial view of
Kerama Islands
SECRET utopia
Untouched by overt commercialism, Okinawa showcases
Japans hidden depths. Welcome to slow, serene and
soulful island life in a subtropical climate
he holy grail of globetrotting becomes a tangible
reality in the Okinawa prefecture. Location,
authenticity and natural beauty boxes are all
ticked, but what propels a stay here into the
memorable is the warmth of welcome from the
locals.
most vibrant. Swim among manta rays off Ishigaki

island or explore the miniature underwater gardens
around the Kerama islands. Yonaguni island is famous
for its school of hammerhead sharks and underwater
ruins site where youll spot sea turtles, Napoleon sh,
barracudas and giant trevally.
Icharba-cho-de is their mantra; translating as meet

once and become like family; a trip to Okinawa
delivers aesthetic and cultural ideals and tugs at your
heartstrings. All without a cheesy anecdote in sight and
with reassuring access to a clutch of sophisticated
resorts. Yes, its time to sit up and take notice of this
archipelago of 160 islands sitting between the Pacic
Ocean and East China Sea. All ultramarine waters,
powder white sands, world-class coral reefs and
emerald forests, this is a tropical idyll to rival the
Maldives, Seychelles and Hawaii.
Back on dry land, the beaches are in a league of their

own. Okinawas main island is split into three areas;
north, south and central. In the north, head to
Emerald and Sesoko beaches. Aharen beach in the
central/south boasts a fun atmosphere, white curved
sands and coral reef. The three smaller outer island
regions east of Okinawa main island are Kume,
Yaeyama and Miyako. Here, Yonaha-Maehama beach
is renowned as the best, and its easy to see why with
its 7km of white ne-milled sands and azure waters.
A mecca for divers, around 200 of the worlds 800

species of coral are found in the crystalline waters here.
The marine ecosystem is, as a result, one of the globes
Theres no denying Okinawas allure as a beach and

dive destination, but a mix of beguiling culture, ora
and fauna and world-heritage sites add a further
dimension. Iriomote Island is known as the Galapagos
of the East. Both Yanbaru forest and Iriomote are home

to rare fauna including the Yanbaru Kuina- a ightless
bird, Gold Beetle and Iriomote Cat.
If you only visit two of the World-Heritage sites make it
Zakimi Castle Ruins and Sefa Utaki. At the former,
admire the fteenth century arch, then embrace your
inner spirituality at Sefa Utaki. The eighth century
Ryuku culture is also fascinating and karate has its roots
planted here.
Okinawas most opulent addresses keep one foot planted
in the future. Stay at the Ritz-Carlton or Busena Terrace
on the main island. On the outlying islands, go for Shigira
Bayside Suite Allamanda on Miyako or Kohamajima
Resort and Spa on Kuhama.
Air China, BA and Virgin Atlantic all y from
London to Naha airport, Okinawa via Beijing,
Tokyo or Shanghai. For more information go
to visitokinawa.jp
ASIA
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP
LEFT: THE POOL AT
ANANTARA MUI NE
RESORT & SPA; NINH
VAN BAY VILLAS,
FEATURED IN RED
SAVANNAH'S ESSENTIAL
VIETNAM; SOFITEL
LEGEND METROPOLE,
HANOI; SURFING IN MUI NE
Winding down the eastern side of the Indochina Peninsula,

Vietnams slim, S-shaped land shares borders with China,
Laos and Cambodia, and its more than 3,000 kilometres of
coastline are lapped by the Gulf of Tonkin, South China Sea
and Gulf of Thailand.
Contrast the divergent charms of the nations two largest
cities and its extensive coastline with Red Savannahs
Essential Vietnam itinerary (redsavannah.com). Begin in the
capital of Hanoi for a traditional cyclo tour through the old
French quarter. Next, pull up anchor on a traditional wooden
junk headed for Halong to glide among the towering limestone karsts.
A speedboat ride through Ninh Van Bay offers time to unwind on
deserted island beaches before arriving in Ho Chi Minh City (formerly
Saigon). Spend time at the Reunification Palace and Notre Dame
Cathedral, before visiting the hillside Cu Chi Tunnels to learn about the
lives of guerrilla fighters during the Vietnam War.
Crisscrossed by waterways, the Mekong Delta is navigable only by
boat. Decorated with wrought iron balustrades, polished wood floors
and a pool deck jacuzzi, The Jahan (heritage-line.com/collection/thejahan) is the Mekong Rivers most stately voyager. A seven-night Lost
Civilisations cruise between Ho Chi Minh City and Siem Reap traverses
rural Vietnam, with a traditional sampan (wooden boat) excursion to
Bnh Thanh Island and its winding canals. Khmer cooking classes and
therapeutic spa treatments add local flavour as you sail towards the
ancient Cambodian ruins of Angkor.

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1. TRAVEL SENTRY APPROVAL CABLE LOCK (BLACK AVAILABLE), 20, VICTORINOX.COM;

2. DRANSE POLO, 85, VICTORINOX.COM; 3. VOYAGER BLAZER, 250, VICTORINOX.COM;
4. BERNE II 5 POCKET JEAN, 95, VICTORINOX.COM; 5. CUSTOMISABLE SUEDE MONK STRAP
S H O E , 2 1 4 , S C A R O S S O . C O . U K ; 6 . P L A I S I R S T O N E B E LT, 8 9 , O L I V E R S W E E N E Y. C O M
Two decades ago, the dune-swept beaches of Mui Ne were reachable

only via a bumpy four-wheel drive over rutted tracks. The rhythmic
coastal gusts began attracting watersports enthusiasts, and today
Mui Ne is Asias best kitesurfing spot. Vietnam Kitesurfing Tours
YLHWQDPNLWHVXUQJWRXUVFRP provide accredited instruction
for amateur and experienced kiteboarders to ride the waves using
wind power.
After a morning workout with the gusting bay winds, retire with a book
and a chilled drink to the palm-fringed pool deck, or indulge aching
muscles with a 60-minute four-hand massage at Anantara Mui Ne
Resort & Spa (mui-ne.anantara.com). If staying longer, the hotel can
arrange a half-day trip to the immense Mui Ne sand dunes, that glow
white, gold and red in the sun, and Fairy Stream, a narrow channel of
water flanked by animal-like formations cut by wind and water into the
sandstone rocks. Finish with a picnic beside Bau Trang, or Lotus Lake,
where lotus flowers bloom in this natural oasis amid the dunes.
Bettery business with the

Royal Brunei Dreamliner
Royal Brunei Airlines may be a boutique carrier, but were a lot smarter than most.
The Dreamliner is our latest fashion statement, improvement after improvement provides the most up
to date aircraft. With only 18 seats in business class you have the feeling of being in a private cabin
*Better Business Class 79-inch seat pitch, 180-degree lie-at bed
*Better air a more ecient climate-controlled environment
*Better view smarter windows for superb views and vistas
*Better rest greatly reduced engine noise for a quieter cabin
*Better space larger overhead bins for your hand luggage
*Better connections a perfect gateway to the Far East
Business class fares from London to Asia start from 1,728
(inc all taxes and charges subject to availability)
www.flyroyalbrunei.com
ASIA
Residing at the base of the Malay Peninsula and occupying just

710 square kilometres, Singapore is among the worlds smallest
countries. Todays affluent city-state was founded on its location
at the crossroads of east-west shipping routes, while a forwardthinking approach to tourism and a strong service culture earn
plaudits from independent travellers.
Singapores compact landscape is ideally suited for viewing
from upon high. Take a cab to Mount Faber Park and board the
Singapore Cable Car (singaporecablecar.com.sg). From here, 67
black and chrome cabins descend gently towards Sentosa Island,
1.
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3.

LAUT DOLUT QUID QUE
VOLUPTATE PRO CORRO
AUTEMQUASI
5.
4.
Straits by day or night are scores

of merchant ships ready to
disgorge their cargo at the citys
overworked shipping port.
affording photogenic daytime or after-dark views of the city skyline, harbour and the
Singapore Straits beyond. A swim in the infinity-edged pool at The Sky Park on the
57th floor of Marina Bay Sands (marinabaysands.com) is well known for its picturepostcard views over Singapores urban centre and gentrified Marina Bay. Then, cast
your eyes to the east. Beyond the 121-hectare Gardens by the Bay (gardensbythebay.
com.sg) is one of Singapores most compelling sights. Lining up in the Singapore
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT:
THE WORLD OF PLANTS
AT GARDENS BY THE BAY;
THE DRAGONFLY LAKE,
GARDENS BY THE BAY;
VIEW OF SENTOSA ISLAND
FROM THE SINGAPORE
CABLE CAR;
INFINITY-EDGED POOL AT
THE SKY PARK, MARINA
BAY SANDS
Singapores Peranakan communities

are an enduring legacy of its
maritime history. Descendants of Chinese, Indian and Southeast Asian
traders who migrated here and married local Malay women, they created
hybrid cultures that remain an intriguing part of daily life. Housed in
a former schoolhouse built in 1912, the colourful Peranakan Museum
(peranakanmuseum.org.sg) details the origins and traditions of the
Peranakan peoples, both in Singapore and across Southeast Asia.
Go back-to-basics by taking a short boat ride from Changi Point Ferry
Terminal to Pulau Ubin. Meaning Granite Island in Malay, it sits off
Singapores northeast coast and its rustic charms contrast markedly from
the city-states polished urbanism. Rent a bike to explore the undulating
hills and coastline, plus the rare ecosystem of the Chek Jawa wetlands. For
a tropical beach bliss-out or a spot of sea kayaking, set your compass for
the Celestial Ubin Beach Resort (ubinbeach.celestialresort.com)
Singapores creative minds have been tasked with refashioning several
heritage buildings into small, design-led hotels. Chinatowns terraced
shophouses are fruitful locations for boutique pads. Here, the classical
interiors of The Duxton (theduxton.sg) contrast with the eccentric
iconoclasm of New Majestic (newmajestichotel.com). Across town
in Kampong Glam district, the colonnaded frontage of The Sultan
(thesultan.com.sg) features 64 individually designed rooms inside an
impressive amalgamation of 10 former shophouses.
1. NIKON COOLPIX P600, 429.99, NIKON.CO.UK; 2. ASHTIANI DRESS, 371,

W O L F A N D B A D G E R . C O M ; 3 . S I L K S C A R F, 1 7 5 , C O U V E R T U R E A N D T H E G A R B S T O R E .
COM; 4. BALLET SHOES, 149, PRETTYBALLERINAS.COM; 5. COCKTAIL RING,
129, GRANDBAZAARLONDON.CO.UK
4.
S tyle.E levated.
The original Grand Hotel has been delighting her guests since 1865. She exudes a timeless elegance,
blending a sense of the past with the style of today. She is a legendary hostess that captivates your senses
with her engaging nesse that bears the hallmarks of a rich heritage that spans three centuries.
She will conjure memories that will be talked of for time to come.
Discover The Langham, London: langhamlondon.com

1c Portland Place, Regent Street, London, W1B 1JA T 44 (0) 20 7965 0191
ASIA

KUMANO MOUNTAINS;
NACHI FALLS AND
PAGODA; KUMANO HONGU
TAISHA SHRINE GATE;
FLOATING TORII GATE
Comprising several thousand islands (Honshu, Kyushu, Hokkaido

and Shikoku are the four largest) and a population of more than 125
million people, Japans enduring appeal resides in its overlapping of
urban modernism with gentler rustic and coastal traditions, secluded
landscapes and a unique culinary heritage.
The future of Tokyos multi-layered urbanscape is shifting from the
1. DOWN BLAZER, 250, BOSIDENGMENSWEAR.COM; 2. POCKET SQUARE FUCHSIA,

8 . 4 0 , T R A S H N E S S . C O M ; 3 . F L O R A L S H I R T, 9 0 , B O S I D E N G M E N S W E A R . C O M ; 4 . B L A C K
SAIL LEATHER RUCKSACK, 760, VCHERCHI.CO.UK; 5. BREMONT U2/BL WATCH, 3,595,
MRPORTER.COM; 6. GEORGE CLEVERLEY CASHMERE SLIPPERS, 295, MRPORTER.COM;
7 . S L I M F I T D A R K WA S H S E LV E D G E J E A N S , 9 0 , B O S I D E N G M E N S W E A R . C O M
The ancient Japanese virtuosity of uniting nature and spirituality endures in southern
Honshu. Since the 10th century, pilgrims have followed the Kumano Kodo hillside trails
to three revered shrines, Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Hayatama Taisha, and Kumano
Nachi Taisha. Starting near the city of Tanabe, the treks traverse mountain passes,
bamboo forests and terraced rice fields. For views of the Pacific Ocean, head along the
Ohechi coastal route, or take the imperial Nakahechi pass to the magnificent Nachi
Falls. Kumano Tourism Bureau (tb-kumano.jp/en/) provides maps, audio guides and
information about onsen stays and rafting trips.
Meaning Four Countries, Shikoku (tourismshikoku.org)
is Japans fourth largest island and is cherished for its
forested valleys and natural hot springs. Highlights
of the region include the Otsuka Museum of Art
(o-museum.or.jp), which exhibits hundreds of ceramic
reproductions of art classics, such as Picassos Guernica
and Michelangelos The Last Judgment. More rural
pleasures include a cruise along the Yoshinogawa River
to Oboke Gorge, where steep limestone karsts rise on
either side. Further along the gorge, the faster moving
waters are ideal for whitewater rafting. For peaceful
respite, Nano Yado Hotel Iya Onsen (iyaonsen.co.jp) is
built on a cliff in the Iya Forest
with cable-car only access to its private hot spring
onsen at the base of a ravine.
Surrounded by mountains, rivers, the sea and islands,
the southwestern city of Hiroshima (visithiroshima.

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net) is inevitably associated with the atomic bomb

that decimated the landscape in 1945. The inspiring
locations behind Hiroshimas long, painful recovery
form part of a private one-day Hiroshima tour by
Michi Travel Japan (michitravel.com). By contrast,
the spiritual sense of hope is embraced by sailing
to the Itsukushima shinto shrine on the island of
Miyajima, famed for its floating torii gate, constructed
as a boundary between the human and spirit worlds.
densely populated downtown areas to the hitherto less heralded Tokyo Bay
waterfront, where the 2020 Olympic Park is under development. Sky View Lounge
on the 20th floor of the InterContinental Tokyo Bay (interconti-tokyo.com) is a
sophisticated spot to savour night time views over the bay, the 25-kilometre Aqualine Bridge and sea tunnel and the Eiffel Tower-shaped Tokyo Tower.
For fans of sun, sea and scuba, the sub-tropical archipelago of Okinawa
(visitokinawa.jp) is an island-hopper's paradise with its pristine beaches
and coral outcrops. A thousand miles south of the capital, its vibrant and
distinct culture and wonderful food scene complete the experience.
THE
GOLD
STANDARD
2014
THE WORLDS BEST HOTELS, RESTAURANTS AND BARS

AS CHOSEN BY THE EDITORS OF COND NAST TRAVELLER
NOW ONLINE VISIT WWW.CNTRAVELLER.COM/AWARDS
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ASIA
Tour operators
XAbercrombie & Kent
XKuoni
XMalaysia Airlines
abercrombiekent.co.uk
kuoni.co.uk
malaysiaairlines.com
0845 485 1552
01306 747 002
XAmpersand Travel
XLightfoot Travel
ampersandtravel.com
lightfoottravel.com
0207 289 6100

XAudley Travel
audleytravel.com
XRed Savannah
redsavannah.com
carrier.co.uk
0207 368 1200
qatarairways.com
XRoyal Brunei Air

bruneiair.com
XCleveland Collection
clevelandcollection.co.uk
britishairways.com
0207 843 3531

XCathay Pacific
FDWKD\SDFLFFRP
coxandkings.co.uk
XEmirates
emirates.com
XHayes & Jarvis
qantas.com.au
WUDLOQGHUVFRP
Airlines
XBritish Airways
0207 873 5000
XQantas
XQatar Airways
XTrailfinders
0161 826 4665
XCox & Kings
philippineairlines.com
01242 787 800
01993 838 000

XCarrier
XPhilippine Airlines
XSingapore Airlines
singaporeair.com
XThai Airways
thaiairways.co.uk
XTurkish Airlines
turkishairlines.com
hayesandjarvis.co.uk
XEva Air
0844 855 4488
evaair.com
XITC
XKorean Air
itcluxurytravel.co.uk
koreanair.com
XVietnam Airlines
vietnamairlines.com
01244 355 505
XVirgin Atlantic
virgin-atlantic.com
XJAL
uk.jal.com
FIND YOUR WAY AROUND ASIA WITH THESE TRAVEL OPERATORS AND AIRLINES
Words: Gary Bowerman
W
OST
WANTED
LUXURY
Designer Derek Rose goes from

strength to strength: his latest
collection is more comfortable and
beautiful than ever. Pack some now.
Him Basel I Navy Hoodie, 135; Lewis I
White Tank Top, 35; Nelson 41 Navy Lounge
Trousers, 70; Her Carla I Navy Lounge
Tee, 70; Toile 3 White Lounge Trousers, 62
THEA DARRICOTTE uncovers your world
derek-rose.com
THERE'S THE RUB
EXPERIENCE
FASHION
In need of some pampering? The cliff-top Jumeirah

Port Soller Hotel & Spa in Mallorca has a new spa
package which includes daily breakfast, access
to the spa and one 60-minute massage per
person per day choose a facial, body
wrap or massage, amongst other
treats. Doubles from 352,
jumeirah.com/mallorca
NET GAINS
Summer is on its way, so
treat yourself to one of the
beautiful pieces created
exclusively for Net-a-Porter
by Chlo. Its the rst time
the French fashion house has
collaborated like this, and it
was worth the wait!
net-a-porter.com/Chloe
loves
THE
COMPETITION
ANYTHING IN YOUR DIARY FOR JUNE? ENTER COWORTH

PARK'S ROYAL ASCOT COMPETITION AND YOUR HAT
HEALTH & BEAUTY
DESIGN COULD BE MADE IN THE COUTURE ATELIER OF

STEPHEN JONES, AS WELL AS WINNING TWO TICKETS
FOR ROYAL ASCOT, A TWO-NIGHT STAY IN A LUXURIOUS
SUITE AT COWORTH PARK AND RETURN FLIGHTS WITH
FASHION
EYE SPY
Le Specs have partnered with popculture creative duo Craig & Karl to
create a fantastical eyewear collection for
the more avant-garde individual.
54, lespecs.com
BRITISH AIRWAYS, IF LIVING OUTSIDE THE UK.

VISIT DORCHESTERCOLLECTION.COM/
ASCOT-HAT-COMPETITION
FROM 1 MARCH, FOR DETAILED COMPETITION TERMS AND CONDITIONS
Calm and Collected have

become artists in residence
at Jo Malone, setting up
studio in Selfridges, designing
ve exclusive bottles for their
favourite fragrances and
personalising boxes live in
store. To attend visit the Jo
Malone facebook page.
41, selfridges.com
HEALTH & BEAUTY
SUNSHINE SUPERSTAR
P20 is already iconic for its once-a-day
sun-protection cream now it's
available in more factors so theres
a cream for everyone in the family.
13.29, p20.co.uk
GO TOPLESS THIS SUMMER

LUXURY
LUXURY
The latest soft-top A3 from Audi is beautifully

balanced with a fast-retracting fabric hood
that can be completely concealed within
the body. There is also a comprehensive
choice of engines and array of
technological innovations adopted
from larger Audi models.
From 25,790,
audi.co.uk
TRAVEL
BOBBI DAZZLER
The iconic foundation stick from
Bobbi Brown has relaunched 20
years after revolutionising the
beauty industry. The modernised
version is available in 24
skintone-correct shades. It's
also humidity resistant, so
is perfect for taking to
tropical climes.
29, bobbibrown.co.uk
HEALTH & BEAUTY
WHAT'S NEW PUSSYCAT?

CARTIERS LATEST FRAGRANCE
IS A FELINE FLORAL THAT
TAKES INSPIRATION FROM
CARTIERS ICONIC PANTHER
SYMBOL. MATHILDE LAURENT,
ITS CELEBRATED PERFUMER,
BEGAN WITH A GARDENIA
AND DEVELOPED UNUSUAL
FERAL NOTES THE RESULT IS
POWERFULLY SEDUCTIVE,
FROM 49,
CARTIER.COM
FOOD & DRINK

SPORT
PUKKA CHUKKER
CREAM OF THE CROP

Mvenpick Ice Cream is luxuriously
refreshing in this hotter weather and with
avours such as Swiss Chocolate and
Strawberry, it's always a crowd pleaser.
8.49, ocado.com
THE SEVENTH ANNUAL

ST REGIS INTERNATIONAL CUP
TAKES PLACE ON 17 MAY AT
COWDRAY PARK.
NACHO FIGUERAS, RIGHT,
WILL CAPTAIN THE
SOUTH AMERICANS AGAINST
THE AUDI-SPONSORED
ENGLAND TEAM.
STREGISPOLO.COM
Get bikini-ready with the help of Plenish, the innovative raw

cold- pressed juice with a celebrity following and a variety of cleanses
available. I recommend the 5:2 version which makes your fast days
easy so youll be ready for your next holiday in no time.
plenishcleanse.com
W
W
Combat the effects of jet lag (and age)
with DR SEBAGHs new Supreme Eye
Serum, which illuminates, tightens and
refreshes the eye area while alleviating
pufness, ne lines and deeper wrinkles
all within the space of ve minutes.
95, harrods.com
SHE SELLS SEA SHELLS

THESE PRETTY TORY BURCH EARRINGS
ARE THE ESSENCE OF SEASIDE CHIC,
WITH DELICATE SHELL DROPS TO GET
YOU IN THE MOOD FOR THE BEACH.
LUCA GOLD-PLATED SHELL AND
WOOD EARRINGS,
190, NET-A-PORTER.COM
NOTE TO SELF
Hoorah for the Clarins
Radiance Plus Golden
Glow Booster, a made-tomeasure self-tan which you
add to your night moisturiser
and await a subtle golden
glow in the morning. Perfect
for warming up post-winter
skin. 18, clarins.com
FASHION
THE LATEST TREND IN

TRAVEL IS TO LEAVE
YOUR EXPENSIVE
JEWELLERY IN
THE SAFE AND
EXPLORE FOREIGN
LANDS WEARING MORE
AFFORDABLE
BUT HIGHLY ATTRACTIVE
VERSIONS, SO THAT
THEFT, DAMAGE OR
LOSS WONT BREAK THE
BANK. GUESS HAS A
BRILLIANT RANGE. 169,
GUESSWATCHES.COM
HEALTH & BEAUTY
GUESS THE TIME
BRIGHT IDEA
Add a sultry glow to your skin
with ILIAS Polka Dot and
Moonbeams illuminator,
which contains cocoa butter,
rose hip and Vitamin E to heal
and moisturise the skin.
30, conranshop.co.uk
GO WEST! BRITISH AIRWAYS HAS NEW ROUTES TO AUSTIN, TEXAS, ON ITS BOEING 787 DREAMLINER.
EXPERIENCE
IT'S THE WORLDS MOST ENVIRONMENTALLY-FRIENDLY PASSENGER PLANE, SO YOU CAN ENJOY THE FLIGHT
FEELING HIGHLY VIRTUOUS, AND EXPERIENCE LESS JETLAG THANKS TO THE LOWER CABIN PRESSURE.
RETURN FLIGHTS AND FOUR NIGHTS AT THE RADISSON HOTEL & SUITES AUSTIN DOWNTOWN FROM
779 PP BASED ON TWO SHARING, FOR SELECTED DEPARTURE DATES IN MAY. BRITISHAIRWAYS.COM
Dr Lancers
wonderful
range of
skincare is now
available in a
deluxe travel
set so there
is ofcially no
excuse for bad
skin on holiday!
190,
harrods.com
Have something special to celebrate? Billecart-Salmon Blanc de Blancs

is a hidden gem; with notes of almonds and hazelnuts and white-esh
fruits, this Champagne is creamy on the palate with brioche and mineral
aromas making it the perfect accompaniment for caviar and oysters.
66.99, selfridges.com
EXPERIENCE
GRASS IS GREENER
HEALTH & BEAUTY
After a 26-million facelift, The Belfry in

Warwickshire is more attractive than ever to golfers
and families alike. Set within 500 acres of stunning
countryside in the heart of England, the hotel
offers guests the choice of three golf courses,
luxury spa experiences and the fabulous
Brabazon bar to while away
an afternoon in.
Thebelfry.co.uk
The Utopia Candles from

The School of Life
provide a fragrant
take on philosophy.
The Walden is
particularly delicious
with notes of wild berries,
citrus and amber.
35, theschooloife.com
LUXURY
LUXURY
Climate extremes and

long-haul ights can cause
havoc with your skin. To
counteract this, use
La Prairies Cellular Swiss
Ice Crystal Dry Oil, which
increases your skin's
hydration and resilience.
210, laprairie.com
IN THE NUDE
HEALTH & BEAUTY
Thebelfry.co.uk
The Bentley for Men

fragrance range has
expanded to include Azure,
a powerfully expressive
cologne with a fresh twist to
appeal to sporty, smart and
style-conscious men. 43
for 60ml, harrods.com
Anne Semonins Nude Body Scrub is this season's cult product.

It contains sea salt to detoxify, pink quartz to energise while
botanical oils smooth, nourish and leave the skin subtly
shimmering and soft with a hint of exotic verbena to promote a
sense of wellbeing and relaxation. 73, annesemonin.com
Need a home from home this summer? Scott Dunn has added three new
villas in the South of France, each with a private pool, a dedicated chef and
a personal host to assist with any aspect of the holiday. Nannies, toys
and children's accessories are also available. scottdunn.com
Dream Destinations
Dream Destinations
EUROPE-UK
NORTH AMERICA
ZURICH
HOTEL RESTAURANT HELVETIA
The boutique hotel Helvetia with its 16
individually furnished rooms is a real jewel
among the citys hotels. The family-run
and individual hotel and restaurant offer a
home from home to business travellers,
city explorers and Zurich lovers alike.
Phone: 0041 (0)44 297 99 98
Web: www.hotel-helvetia.ch
La Sablonnerie Hotel is located on the lovely

island of Sark, Channel Islands. It has a strong
international clientele who return-year-afteryear to recapture the beauty of the island and
to enjoy the excellent cuisine, wine, and
friendliness for which the hotel has an enviable
reputation. Guests gather in the bar before a
roaring log fire for a cocktail or a glass of
champagne before dining, and later take a
moonlit walk or simply gaze at star-studded
skies. Featured by the Which hotel guide as
The place to stay in the Channel Islands, the
hotel also received Cond Nast Johansen
Small Hotel of the Year Award and was
nominated as their Most Romantic Hotel.
Also the Hotel of the Year Award from Les
Routier. Visit www.sablonneriesark.com or call
01481 832061.
QUALITY VILLAS in France, Italy and

Morocco.
Luxury holiday villas with pools on the
Cote dAzur, St Tropez, Provence, Biarritz,
Tuscany, Umbria, Marrakech, Agadir and
more. Our portfolio of villas are visited
personally by us, meaning we can offer
specialist advice down to the smallest
detail. Services including chef, transfers
and maid service are easily arranged.
Tel 01442 870055 or visit
www.qualityvillas.com ABTA & Fully
Bonded.
THE BULL HOTEL. Easy-going and

bursting with life this 16th century
coaching inn oozes eclectic style and
contemporary rustic charm with two
award-winning restaurants, cider house
and cocktail bar in the heart of Bridport
near the Jurassic Coast in West Dorset.
Call 01308 422878 or visit
thebullhotel.co.uk
The Baker House 1650s luxurious and

relaxing environment makes it the ideal
home away from home in East Hampton,
New York. On offer is a range of amenities
including breakfast daily, local beach
access, spa treatments, and concierge
services to cater to every guests needs.
T: 631.324.4081 or email
info@bakerhouse1650.com.
Dream Destinations
AFRICA & INDIAN OCEAN

HOT
LIST
THE 60 BEST
NEW HOTELS
IN THE WORLD
THE ZANZIBAR COLLECTION

Exotic, Luxurious, Zanzibar!
The Zanzibar Collection is a privately
owned collection of beautiful boutique
hotels inspired by the magic of Zanzibar,
lying on one of the Top 30 Island beaches
in the world. Offering a range of water
sports, stunning spas and East Africas
only National Geographic afliated PADI 5
star Dive Centre. Baraza Resort and Spa
was chosen as one of the Worlds 60
Best New Hotels on the Conde Nast
Hotlist. www.thezanzibarcollection.com
CASA LA CONCHA, a beautiful finca

situated in the stunning Marbella
countryside just minutes from Puerto
Banus. An Old Andalusian residence, it
has been exquisitely renovated into a large
main house and 5 luxury cottages. Relax
in the living room with a drink, enjoy a
good book from their library or go explore
the hidden treasures of Marbella. Visit
www.casalaconcha.com or call +34 646
520 883.
Deelin Mor Lodge is a secluded retreat in

the midst of the Burren, one of Irelands
most unique areas of outstanding natural
beauty. This design led family home, built in
the style of an Irish Georgian hunting lodge,
accommodates up to 10 people and is
perfect for holidays, special occasions or a
weekend break. www.deelinmor.com
Tel: +353 65 708 9009.
Borgo Pignano is a private estate

extending over 750 acres set in the rolling
hills of the Tuscan countryside. The villa
and two smaller stone farmhouses are
part of the 18th century converted luxury
hotel comprising of seventeen elegantly
furnished rooms. With 350 acres of
organically farmed land and two organic
vegetable gardens the kitchens prepare
locally sourced, fresh Tuscan delicacies.
Rooms can be booked for individual stays
or the Villa and farmhouses can be
booked exclusively making it the ideal
venue for private celebrations, retreats,
classes, holidays, and conferences.
www.borgopignano.it, +39 058 835 032.
Dream Destinations
EUROPE
La Baronnie Hotel & Spa*** proposes
some exceptional packages to give you
the opportunity to discover the charming
Ile de R. In October: for 3 nights stay, 1
night is offered and we offer
complimentary breakfast during
weekdays Private parking / No smoking.
Tel:+33 546 092 129;
www.hotel-labaronnie.com
CASA MONTANI is a luxury guesthouse in
the heart of Rome, overlooking the
prestigious Porta del Popolo. Its ve rooms
and exclusive new apartment are beautifully
furnished with the best Italian and French
brands. The atmosphere is very personal
with breakfast served in your room the
perfect haven to stay in while you explore
the city. www.casamontani.com Tel: +39
063 260 0421.
WINCHESTER MANSIONS is an iconic

building on the seafront in Cape Town
within close proximity to the V&A
Waterfront and Cape Town International
Airport. This landmark hotel offers
classically elegant rooms boasting sea or
mountain views. Facilities include a pool,
Ginkgo Spa, signature dishes from
Harveys restaurant and full service
conferencing.
Tel: +27 (0)21 434 2351
Fax: +27 (0)21 434 0215
Email: traveller@winchester.co.za
Web: www.winchester.co.za
Now from only 99 per room B&B
Dream Destinations
AUSTRALASIA & OCEANIA
istanbul!place apartments Best City

Apartment winners at i-escape. Stylish,
characterful, self-catering period
properties in Galata, the heart of Istanbul.
Stay close to the ancient sights yet be
part of the contemporary, authentic local
community: live like a local. Perfect for
gatherings of families and friends.
www.istanbulplace.com or 07729 251676.
HOTEL CLAUDE MARBELLA is a

luxurious boutique hotel, set inside a
meticulously restored 17th-century
townhouse. Perfectly placed in the heart of
Marbellas Old Town. Experience this
former artists club with its 7 uniquely
styled rooms, restaurant, patios and roof
terraces. www.hotelclaudemarbella.com
Email: info@hotelclaudemarbella.com
Tel.: +34 952 900 840.
HERITAGE LISBON HOTELS

Live the Portuguese Charm and Tradition
in the Historic Centre of Lisbon. Stay in
one of the 5 Heritage Lisbon Hotels
Collection As Janelas Verdes, Heritage
Avenida Liberdade Hotel, Hotel Britania,
Hotel Lisboa Plaza and Solar Do Castelo
Tel: +351 213 218 200
heritage.hotels@heritage.pt
www.heritage.pt
The UKs most comprehensive

dedicated website all about
the Galapagos Islands
www.CasaAzulHotel.com
Tel: +52 (999) 925.50.16
Mrida, Yucatn
www.cruisethegalapagos.co.uk
Tel: 01473 890499
THE HUKA RETREATS

www.hukaretreats.com
Three sister properties in South Africa, Fiji
and New Zealand chic and understated
statements of exclusivity and seclusion, all
offering an exceptional hospitality experience
to the worlds most discerning travellers.
GRANDE PROVENCE ESTATE, South
Africa, is located within a one-hour drive
from Cape Town. This 300-year old heritage
estate offers award-winning wines, cuisine
and art gallery with superb accommodation
at The Owners Cottage and La Provenale.
T +27 (0)21 876 8600
E reservations@grandeprovence.co.za
DOLPHIN ISLAND, Fiji offers 14-acres of
Pacific private island beauty, romance and
luxury castaway time for a max. of 8
guests, on an exclusive-use basis.
HUKA LODGE, New Zealand, is famed for
its natural beauty, legendary hospitality and
absolute style since the 1920s. With just
25 rooms within 17-acres of manicured
grounds.
Contact: T +64 7 378 5791
E reservations@hukalodge.co.nz
for both Huka Lodge & Dolphin Island
reservations.

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On The Move...
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www.casacolonialhotel.com
00 1 866 376 7831 / 00 1 809 320 3232
On The Move...
On The Move...
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WELCOME TO THE
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Now in our 23rd year
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For information or reservations: Ph. +39 0185 26991

eighthotels.it
2787
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or visit our website

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V5643
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On The Move...
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OU TSTA NDING V ILL A S
Montenegro Villa
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Full details:
www.ownersdirect.co.uk/montenegrob/MN383.htm
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villas in Sicily
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tel. + 39 081 877 7111
info@exvitt.it www.excelsiorvittoria.com
www.soloSicily.com
020 7097 1413 - info@soloSicily.com
On The
Move...
Could we
have a drink of
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d^dD,
Daily, 5* holidays including Heathrow flight

Cairo, city break
from
495,
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A3781
020 7370 6446
Luxury
& Style
Cond Nast Traveller reminds you to ensure that when

booking a package holiday to check that the travel
company has arranged a bond, in order to provide
nancial security through a trade association
(eg ABTA), insurance, or a trust account.
SOUTH AMERICA
Tailor-made holidays in Chile,

Argentina, Peru, Brazil and Bolivia
Tel: 020 7730 5959
www.chiletours.org
Email: London.chiletours@btinternet.com
INDIA
Germany
CHILE TOURS
Madeira France
Travel
Be inspired by our
superb selection of fine
hotels in the best locations
across nine destinations.
Coastal, lakeside, rural
or city by air, sea, rail
or accommodation only.
Many offers on our website
Switzerland
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Spain Mallorca Portugal
Capri
For these horses, pulling tourist carts and waiting in the hot
sun can be gruelling, especially when they have no water.
Travellers like you can help by only seeing the sights in
carriages drawn by healthy horses with caring owners.
Promoting better care amongst carriage horses will
encourage less considerate owners to change their
behaviour. To make a big dierence for horses on your
travels by doing something small, see our tips for travellers
at www. worldhorsewelfare.org/responsible-tourism
In addition to helping horses in the UK and our
international campaigns, World Horse Welfare helps
working horses across three continents by working with
their owners to improve their horse care knowledge and
skills. Find out more at
www.worldhorsewelfare.org/international-work
Guaranteed Sighting
Romance with the Taj
Bespoke tours on India, Burma, Vietnam and China.
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Quote Cond Nast for further information!
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Please donate at worldhorsewelfare.org/donate

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ROOM WITH A VIEW

WHERE ARE WE? CAPE TOWN, SOUTH AFRICA
TAKEN FROM THE POOL TERRACE AT CAPE VIEW CLIFTON
Because to wake up here is to feel happy. How can that force of light and expanse of mountain and
sea fail to put a smile on your face? Directly below are Cape Towns famous Clifton beaches,
distinguished by prosaic numbers and sociological demarcations: surfer dudes hang out on First Beach, Second is family-friendly, Third
is gay and Fourth is for the universally physically blessed. Beyond is the more egalitarian Camps Bay, backed by the Twelve Apostles
mountain range. The new-ish Cape View Clifton has ve suites and two apartments, and its owner, interior designer Jess Latimer, has got
the interiors just right: natural fabrics, contemporary lines, the occasional good antique or posy of fresh owers. Im a little OCD about the
way things look, says Latimer, who lives next door and runs the place with Mitch Terry, formerly of Ellerman House. In the kitchens, Celeste
and Charmaine rustle up superb breakfasts toasted brioche with bacon, berry compote and a dollop of mascarpone and still-warm
cakes for tea. Its easy to see why guests (one of whom has stayed ve times since it opened in November 2012) treat this place like home.
Little Beach is a tiny secluded spot just past the crowded cafs and restaurants of Camps Bay, a ve-minute
INSIDE TIP drive
from the Cape View. With so few visitors, the enviably bronzed lifeguard has little to do but read books
all day. Head here to do the same. PETER BROWNE
232 Kloof Road, Clifton, Cape Town, South Africa (+27 21 438 8748; www.capeviewclifton.co.za).
Suites from about 170, including breakfast
PHOTOGRAPH: HAMISH NIVEN
WHY WE LOVE IT
Investec Derby Festival

Epsom Downs Racecourse
6-7 June 2014
investec.com/derby
Follow us on
@investec_sport
To see everything that Investec does in specialist banking, asset management

and wealth & investment, visit us at investec.com/whatwedo
Investec Bank plc (Reg. no. 489604) is authorised by the Prudential Regulation Authority and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority and the Prudential Regulation Authority. Investec Asset Management
Limited (Reg. no. 2036094) is authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority. Both are members of the London Stock Exchange. Registered at 2 Gresham Street, London EC2V 7QP.
PLEASE TURN THE PAGE TO VIEW SUPPLEMENT
A MANS WORLD
OUR ANNUAL MAGAZINE FOR ADVENTUROUS TYPES
THE ART OF BBQ

THRILLIONAIRES IN SPACE
BEATNIK FASHION
HOW TO BE A DAREDEVIL
THE LITTLE BLACK BOOK OF
BEST BOYS SHOPS
CULT MOUNTAINS
Photograph: Ernest H. Brooks II, Blue in Profile , Edition Fifty Fathoms 2008
MISSION PARTNER OF
Pristine Seas Expeditions
Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe
BLANCPAIN BOUTIQUES
ABU DHABI BEIJING CANNES DUBAI EKATERINBURG GENEVA HONG KONG MACAU
MADRID MANAMA MOSCOW MUNICH NEW YORK PARIS SEOUL SHANGHAI SINGAPORE TAIPEI TOKYO ZURICH
TEL. 0845 273 2500
www.blancpain.com
CONTENTS
MAY 2014
4 STREETWISE
High-reaching Chicago is a
great alternative to New York for smart shopping
7 THRILLIONAIRES IN SPACE Ready

for blast off? The new space race is being funded
by super-rich eccentrics, whose blue-sky thinking
is making giant leaps for all mankind
14 THE ART OF BBQ If your grilling has all

gone a bit Pete Tong, our ultimate barbecue guide
will set you right with the hottest tips for sizzling
music, style, sauces and cooking the perfect steak
24 BEATNIK FASHION Pick up your copy of

Kerouac and nd the Fifties-style wardrobe to match
32
TABLE HOPPING
34
CULT MOUNTAINS The man behind

Le Cirque du Soleil is now the ringmaster of a
show-stopping new ski resort in Quebec
40
THE LITTLE BLACK BOOK OF SHOPS
Adam Richman, the

insatiable star of Man v Food, tells us about the
places where he demands a second helping
The stores worth making a detour for, whether you

want a little red Corvette or a shaving brush
44
HOW TO BE A DAREDEVIL
Polar explorer
Ben Saunders is keeping the spirit of Boys Own
adventure alive, but what keeps him going?
On the cover: polo shirt, 465, Louis Vuitton (www.louisvuitton.co.uk); wool trousers, 425, Alexander McQueen (www.alexandermcqueen.com).
Above: Statesman Two sunglasses, 340, Dita (www.doverstreetmarket.com); cotton shirt, 235; Citizen watch, 205; both Paul Smith
(www.paulsmith.co.uk). Trousers, 418.50, Umit Benan (www.thecorner.com). Calfskin belt, 385, Herms (www.hermes.com).
Photographed by Kalle Gustafsson. Styled by Matthew Buck
EDITOR: MELINDA STEVENS PUBLISHER: SIMON LEADSFORD MANAGING DIRECTOR: NICHOLAS COLERIDGE
A Mans World Editor: Fiona Lintott Deputy Editor: Sarah Spankie Acting Managing Editor: Jessica Diamond Art Director: Pete Winterbottom
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Copyright The Cond Nast Publications Ltd, Vogue House, 1 Hanover Square, London W1S 1JU. Printed in the UK by The Artisan Press Ltd. Colour origination by
CLX Europe Media Solution Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. The title Cond Nast Traveller is
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2 Cond Nast Traveller Mans World May 2014
ONE-STOP SHOPPING
The capital of the US Midwest has always been home to wise guys and now this once
WORDS NICK COMPTON ILLUSTRATION DANIEL FROST
hicago is having a moment. A new mayor,

ex-Obama chief of staff and Democrat
kingmaker Rahm Emanuel, has brought the
buzz back to a city that took more of a battering
during the Great Recession than either New York or
Los Angeles. The hotel group behind 60 Thompson
in New York opened on the citys Gold Coast last
autumn. And this summer Soho House is launching a
six-storey club and hotel in the Fulton Market area.
Put simply, Chicago is cool.
The shopping scene has also bounced back and while
the Magnicent Mile is where Chicagoans head for
designer delights, Wicker Park is the place for more
under-the-radar nds. At its heart is North Milwaukee
Avenue and the Flat Iron Building. This was the
centre of the artistic community that moved into the
neighbourhood in the 1980s. Gentrication, as is the way,
quickly followed, but without blanding out the creative
spirit. And with its distinctive architecture and the L
train rattling overhead, you could only be in Chicago.
TRAINERS
Saint Alfred
A haven for local sneaker freaks,
Saint Alfred offers an international
range of rare and limited-edition
kicks in covetable colourways,
especially from Nike and New
Balance, alongside smart
streetwear. It also produces its
own line of clothing and
accessories, as well as collaborating
with major brands such as Asics.
The store design is a little more
luxe than is the norm in sports
shops, and the staff are
knowledgeable and super-friendly.
No 1531; www.stalfred.com
HEADWEAR
Goorin Bros
Hat Shop
The Goorin brothers began
creating custom-made hats on the
back of a horse cart in Pittsburgh,
Pennsylvania in 1895. The
company is now on a mission to
revive the neighbourhood hat shop
and this branch is one of a new
string of stores, carefully placed in
the most fashionable quarters
across the USA. The selection is
enormous, stretching through at
caps and fedoras to panamas and
bowlers. The store is full of vintage
xtures and all hats are carefully
packaged in a retro-branded box.
Hats off then. Or on.
No 1533; www.goorin.com
GROOMING PRODUCTS
Una Maes
BICYCLE CHIC
Chrome
Chrome started making messenger bags for cyclists
in San Francisco 20 years ago. It now produces a strong
range of stylish, utilitarian satchels and cycle clothing.
Its Wicker Park hub is one of only four in the country
and promotes itself more as a social club for the twowheels-good set than a store. You can also build a
bespoke bag at the Chrome Custom Sewing Station.
No 1529; www.chromeindustries.com
Unsurprisingly, given its retro-cool credentials, North

Milwaukee Avenue is home to a string of vintage stores (US#1
is legendary, as much for its stubbornly rude owner and his dog
as the quality of whats on offer). Una Maes was founded in
1997 as a vintage outlet but has since added new extras. Its
great for plaid shirts, chinos and all the other creatives staples,
but its real draw is the range of beautifully packaged
home-grown grooming products from the likes of Portland
General Store, Prospector Co, Baxter, Imperial and Blind
Barber. If your supply of Captain Fawcetts ylang-ylang
moustache wax is running low, this is the place to top up.
No 1528; www.unamaeschicago.com
NORTH MILWAUKEE AVENUE, CHICAGO

down-at-heel enclave is a globally hip destination for sartorially savvy gents
WORKWEAR
Carhartt
Launched in 2011, this Wicker
Park shop was only the third outpost
opened by the workwear specialist
in the USA (even before New York).
Established in 1889 and based in
nearby Dearborn, Michigan,
Carhartt is still known primarily for
hard-wearing hard-hat gear in the
States. It was us Brits who adopted
the brands brown-duck canvas
jackets as fashionable streetwear in
the late 1990s. And it is the more
directional range (the Work in
Progress line), devised to appeal to
fashionable sorts across the Atlantic
but now gaining traction with local
hipsters, that is the mainstay of
this store. Although you can still get
tough-as-nail standards from
the main line if you want.
No 1518; www.carhartt.com
DENIM
Mildblend Supply Co
In this spare, contemporary dry-goods store,
Mildblend stocks a denim fetishists dream
collection of raw, rugged and hard-to-get-hold-of
jeans brands from North America and Japan,
including LAs Rogue Territory, The Rising Sun and
The Stronghold, Tellason from San Francisco,
Naked & Famous from Canada, and Momotaro and
Eternal from Japan. It also has bags by Will
Leather, Topo Designs and Filson. This is the
kind of updated Americana that has hipsters
dribbling into their beards with delight.
No 1342; www.mildblend.com
DINER FOOD
The Bongo Room

The Bongo Room was serving local
and seasonal fare long before it was
avour of the month. But the
focus here is not foraged fennel and
heritage tomatoes with a better pedigree
than you, rather its a high-quality
take on diner staples: pancakes,
French toast, omelettes and breakfast
burritos the whole enchilada.
No 1470; www.thebongoroom.com
HEALTH MONEY
2014
NEXT GENERATION
Errol Damelin
CEO, Wonga
Speaking at WIRED Money, 2013
Weve moved beyond

the world of anecdotal
judgements and
decisions. Were very
bad at that as humans.
We leave that to
the machine now.
But that
was 2013...
JULY 1, 2014
BOOK YOUR TICKET NOW
020 7152 3196
WIRED.CO.UK/MONEY14
PHOTOGRAPH: DAN WINTERS
May 2014 Cond Nast Traveller Mans World 7
ELON MUSK
WHO? Iron Man. Yes, really: the
inventor played by Robert
Downey Jr in that red armoured
suit was modelled on 42-yearold Musk, a man who, judging by
his CV, can do anything. The
South African engineer and
entrepreneur hit the jackpot by
co-founding the company that eventually became
PayPal; following its sale to eBay in 2002, he could have
retired at the grand old age of 32. But for Musk, whose net
worth is now around 5.8 billion, retirement isnt an option;
theres no time to sit around on a superyacht twiddling
manicured thumbs when theres important business to
attend to, like changing the world. Hes doing this by
investing in sustainable energy and interplanetary transport.
WHATS HE LIKE? Unstoppable. His car company Tesla
has succeeded where almost everyone else (including
Rolls-Royce) has failed, by making electric vehicles that
not only look attractive but will get you further than the
corner shop. Its rst family saloon launched in 2012.
Musks company SpaceX, founded in 2002, won a contract
worth almost 1 billion from NASA in 2008 to replace
the space shuttle in transporting supplies between Earth
and the International Space Station, with the ultimate
aim of carrying passengers. Last year he also found time
to create design concepts for Hyperloop, a shuttle that
could whisk commuters between LA and San Francisco
in 30 minutes, and a supersonic jet that takes off and
lands vertically. Hes also a father of ve.
HIS ULTIMATE GOAL IS A SELFSUSTAINING CIVILISATION ON MARS

HIGHS? In 2008, after three failed launches, SpaceXs
rocket Falcon 1 made history as the rst privately funded
vessel in orbit, a feat only superseded in 2012 when its
spaceship Dragon became the rst commercially owned
vessel to dock at the International Space Station. Last
year, Fortune magazine named him Businessperson of
the Year, and Musk has pledged to use the majority of
his fortune for philanthropic causes.
LOWS? The success of Falcon 1 aside, 2008 is a year Musk
would probably prefer to forget, with those failed launches,
economic woes at a recession-hit Tesla and a divorce.
WHATS NEXT? The red planet. Musks ultimate goal
is to create a self-sustaining civilisation on Mars for
when our used and abused Earth conks out. In 2012, he
outlined his plans to the Royal Aeronautical Society,
but any future development in this area relies upon the
success of SpaceX and its suitability for a trip of at least
34 million miles each way.
STRANGE BUT TRUE Musk bought the Lotus Esprit
car/submarine from the Bond movie The Spy Who
Loved Me for 600,000. He says he intends to t it with
a Tesla engine. www.spacex.com
PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY IMAGES; SPENCER LOWELL; DAN WINTERS
RICHARD BRANSON
WHO? The transport
king who trained, planed
and ballooned his way
into our hearts. As the
head of megabrand Virgin,
Branson has brought us
everything from banking
and broadband to gyms and
a music festival. Now, hes
conquering space.
WHATS HE LIKE? With a propensity for dressing up
in ridiculous outts and never shy of a cheesy photo
opportunity, Branson is the embarrassing dad of the
entrepreneurial world. However, the 63-year-olds
buffoonery has helped earn him almost 2.7 billion, so it
is clearly a shrewd business model. Hes also not afraid to
inject a bit of glamour, whether dressing his airline staff
in Vivienne Westwood, sweeping Dita von Teese into his
arms, or partying with Kate Moss on his private island,
Necker. He seems proud that everyone from family to
colleagues thinks hes mad, and reaching number six on
the Forbes list of UK billionaires doesnt seem so crazy.
Its better to try and to fail than to not try at all, he says
sagely, recalling his mothers early advice to never regret
anything. Or, as he also likes to say, Screw it, lets do it.
HIGHS? Virgin Atlantic, derided by larger rivals, turns

30 this year; he describes it as his greatest achievement.
LOWS? Virgin Cola lost its zz, despite Branson driving
a tank over Coca-Cola and Pepsi cans in Times Square at
its launch. And Virgin Brides was clearly a diversication
too far. Most recently, just a year after its rst dive was
scheduled to take place, all seems to have gone ominously
quiet with Virgin Oceanics mission to reach some of the
worlds unexplored depths in a one-man submersible.
WHATS NEXT? With Virgin Galactic, Branson looks
set to full a childhood dream of space travel, inspired by
watching Neil Armstrong land on the Moon: For many
years, it was out of reach, he says, but Burt Rutan and
the team at Scaled Composites made it possible and we
are very excited by the progress we are making to
achieve the worlds rst spaceline. Following successful
supersonic tests, it is rumoured that Virgin Galactic will
nally launch its much-delayed rst commercial ight this
year, with Lady Gaga, Stephen Hawking, Tom Hanks and
Katy Perry among those booked to travel. Naturally,
Branson and his two children have front-row seats on the
rst trip. I love the adrenalin rush you get when going at
high speeds, he says. Ive become more fearless as the
years have gone by. I like to think Im still going strong!
STRANGE BUT TRUE Branson has appeared in Casino
Royale, Superman Returns, Friends and even Baywatch.
www.virgingalactic.com
Top, the retired space shuttle Endeavour makes its way to its new home, the California Space Center in Los Angeles.
Opposite, the space shuttles ight deck. Previous page, Neil Armstrongs Apollo 11 space suit at the Smithsonian Institution
NIK HALIK
WHO? A wealth strategist
and entrepreneur who,
thanks to some savvy
property investments
in his twenties, now spends
his time advising others
on how to become just as
rich. Australian Halik, 45,
is less of a team player in
the space race: while he says hes happy that NASA is
now outsourcing the commercial sector to ll the void of
Low Earth Orbit missions, he is focused on what he can
achieve personally, having trained as a civilian astronaut
and used his fortune to pursue his galactic dream.
WHATS HE LIKE? As a motivational speaker, he has
a fondness for CAPITAL LETTERS and talking in
slogans such as Dare to DREAM, live with PASSION
and monetise your LIFE and Live the SEVEN-DAY
WEEKEND lifestyle. He calls himself The Thrillionaire,
a job description which entails catapulting your LIFE to
the highest level in emotional, spiritual and nancial
achievement. Inspiring the world one person at a time.
Essentially, this is code for having an awesome time, all
the time. To date, this has included lunch on the wreck
of the Titanic, a visit to the Giant Crystal Cave in Mexico
and a night in the Kings Chamber of the Great Pyramid.
HIGHS? Literally, his 2010 Halo skydive above Mount
Everest, from over 30,000ft. Halik himself, however,
describes his greatest achievement as living LIFE on my
own terms and conditions.
LOWS? Chronic asthma kept him largely conned to bed
as a child and unable to start school until the age of 10.
WHATS NEXT? I want to be part of a ONE WAY
mission to explore other galaxies, he says. The Russians
have offered to rocket me to the Moon for $100 million.
And, like every good entrepreneur, Halik has a back-up
plan: If I dont succeed whilst alive, I have already paid
an American consortium to rocket my ashes there.
STRANGE BUT TRUE As the lead guitarist in a band
named Big Deal, he toured with Bon Jovi in the 1990s.
www.nikinspace.com
Top, the launch plume of the Discovery space shuttle.
Right, sterilising a space suit at the Guiana Space Centre
WHO? Co-founder of Microsoft

with Bill Gates, Allen is the
worlds 53rd richest person, with
a net worth of 9.5 billion. He has
founded companies researching
AI and brain science, and he
owns football and basketball
teams. Hes also in a band.
WHATS HE LIKE? Generous to a fault: according to The
Chronicle of Philanthropy, 61-year-old Allen is among
the USAs top ve biggest donors, giving around 180
million of his fortune to good causes each year. The name
of his post-Microsoft company, Vulcan, was inspired by
the Roman god of re, but it also has pleasing Star Trek
connotations apt given Allens involvement with Scaled
Composites, creators of SpaceShipOne. This craft, funded
by Allen, won the 6-million Ansari XPrize in 2004 after
carrying three people to an altitude of 62 miles twice in
14 days. SpaceShipOne was the vessel that launched the
private space race: Scaled Composites now works with
Branson, having created Virgin Galactics SpaceShipTwo.
HIGHS? Allens career has been one long high not
bad for a college drop-out.
LOWS? He has fought both Hodgkins and nonHodgkins lymphoma.
WHATS NEXT? In 2011, Allen again teamed up with
Scaled Composites, creating Stratolaunch Systems, which
will send private individuals into space. Allen initially
approached Musks SpaceX to provide the rocket
launches, but following a disagreement over designs,
Stratolaunch Systems is working with the company
Orbital; the rst test ights are planned for 2017.
STRANGE BUT TRUE Allen throws legendary, celebritypacked parties, but allegedly makes his guests sign
non-disclosure agreements before attending.
www.paulallen.com
PHOTOGRAPHS: VINCENT FOURNIER; GETTY IMAGES; DAN WINTERS
PAUL ALLEN
CHRONOGRAPH DIVERS
WATCH RM 032
AUTOMATIC WINDING MOVEMENT
Power reserve: circa 50 hours
Flyback chronograph
Annual calendar
Oversize date display
Month display
Free sprung balance with variable inertia
Rotor with variable geometry
Double barrel system
Running indicator
Baseplate, bridges and balance cock made of titanium
Spline screws in grade 5 titanium for the bridges
Balance: Glucydur, 4 arms
Inertia moment 4.8 mg.cm2, angle of lift 53
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4Hz)
Unique tripartite case
Unidirectional bezel following ISO 6425 norms
Spline screws in grade 5 titanium for the case
Locking crown
Baseplate and bridges in
hand-ground grade 5 titanium, wet sandblasted
Top face polished by hand PVD treated
Sapphire blasted and hand-drawn surfaces
RICHARD MILLE BOUTIQUES
REACHING FOR THE STARS

As the new space race reaches maximum
velocity, who are the other gravity dodgers
boldly exploring the nal frontier?
Bloon
MICHIEL MOL
WHO? A geek made good,
Dutch entrepreneur Mol, 44,
is living the dream, having
turned his love of boys toys
into big business and married
a former Miss Universe
Netherlands, Paulien Huizinga,
along the way. He founded
software company Lost Boys in 1993, making money
developing computer games. From there, Mol went into
Formula 1, becoming director of the Spyker team (now
Force India), and in 2010 co-founded Space Expedition
Corporation (SXC) to full his dream of going into orbit.
WHATS HE LIKE? Charming, with an almost puppy-like
enthusiasm. I can only imagine what it will be like, he
says, dreamily, being up there and looking down at the
green, white and blue thing we call Earth. Such is Mols
determination that even as SXC develops its two Lynx
vessels, he has booked on Virgin Galactic, just in case.
Theres no date yet [for the Virgin ight] and now
I have my own company, so it will be close to see who
goes rst, he laughs. Branson will probably win, but he
BRANSON WILL PROBABLY WIN, BUT

HE STARTED IT, SO ITS NO ISSUE
started it, so thats no issue. As bets an entrepreneur,
Mol delights in the thrill of discovery and admits, Its
only interesting when theres change and progression.
When a company reaches a certain size and becomes a
normal day-to-day business, its not my thing any more.
HIGHS? Commercial ights on Lynx are set to begin
late this year, so Mol could win the space race after all.
LOWS? Seemingly none, although Miss Universe is no
longer along for the ride (they divorced in 2011).
WHATS NEXT? Mol is keen to explore what space travel
can do for journeys on Earth, too: What we do with cars,
trains and planes is crazy. Were pushing against the air
all the time and thats what consumes energy. If you can
get to space efciently, the rest of the journey is basically
for free. London to Sydney would take two hours.
STRANGE BUT TRUE Victorias Secret model Doutzen
Kroes is an ofcial ambassador for SXC and will be
one of the rst passengers on Lynx.
www.spacexc.com
Top, space helmet at the John F Kennedy Space Center, Florida
If you fancy the idea of dangling precariously

on the edge of space in a tiny pod, Bloon is
for you. Barcelona-based start-up Zero2Innity
developed the inatable near-spaceship to
offer passengers up to four at a time the
opportunity to spend three hours at an altitude
of over 22 miles, around the point where the
upper stratosphere morphs into the mesosphere.
Following successful test ights in 2013, the rst
scheduled ights are likely to lift off this year.
Tickets cost about 91,000 per passenger.
www.inbloon.com
Blue Origin
The brainchild of Amazon founder Jeff Bezos,
Blue Origin aims to do for space travel what
the internet did for shopping: make it affordable
and convenient. Its New Shepard space vehicle
will lift off vertically and carry three or more
passengers, but customers will have to wait
a while its still at the testing phase.
www.blueorigin.com
Space Adventures
This is soprano Sarah Brightmans space-travel
provider of choice. The Phantom of the Opera
star is among the private individuals to have
signed up for a ight onboard the Russian Soyuz
spaceship (she travels in 2015) 200 miles above
the Earths surface. Space Adventures, the only
company with an orbital space ight currently in
operation, also has a variety of missions planned,
including a lunar walk in 2017. Suborbital ights
to 62 miles above Earth (the ofcial starting
point of space) are available, too, starting at about
91,000. www.spaceadventures.com
World View
Around 45,000 will reserve you a spot in World
Views capsule, hoisted by a helium-lled balloon
into the stratosphere, peaking at an altitude of
around 19 miles. Technically speaking, this is not
space, but its high enough to take in the curvature
of the Earth. Trips are expected to begin in 2016.
www.worldviewexperience.com
SIZZLE KICKS
PHOTOGRAPH: DITTE ISAGER
The art of the BBQ has been hotly disputed ever since cavemen rst rubbed
two sticks together. But its not as simple as adding meat to re. For our
ame-grilled guide we asked the experts, from Wolfgang Puck to Jason Atherton,
to ensure yours is nothing short of smokin. By Jonathan Thompson
BBQ SPECIAL
King of the grill

Q. Charcoal or gas?
A. Always charcoal for me, or wood if its available. Its far
more exciting to cook with. Theres something satisfyingly
caveman-like about starting a re from scratch and cooking
over it. Theres nothing remotely primal about a gas can, and
your meat wont taste as good, either.
Q. Whats the biggest mistake most people make
when barbecuing?
A. Cooking while there are still ames and the coals or wood
havent cooled down enough. Patience is the key.
Q. Whats the secret to the perfect homemade burger?
A. A good butcher and well-aged, rare-breed beef mince.
Q. How do you barbecue vegetables without charring?
A. A light brushing of rapeseed oil will help the vegetables
caramelise rather than blacken.
Q. What type of grill would you recommend?
A. A simple one. A good grill can be a few bricks, a cast-iron
grate and little else. Its the re thats most important: as long
as you have the chance to create a good heat and you can
cook over it efficiently, youre in business.
Q. Whats the best way to barbecue sh?
A. Straight on the grill without wrapping it in anything. But
its important to make sure the bars are clean and have had
good use beforehand so that theyre well seasoned. This will
help with any sticking issues.
Q. What are your must-have barbecue utensils?
A. A good set of tongs and a meat probe to ensure consistency.
Q. Is making pulled pork as difcult as it looks?
A. Nope, it couldnt be easier. Just slowly cook a pork shoulder
until it softens, pull apart and dress the meat in its own
cooking/resting juices. My mum used to leave a pork shoulder
in the bottom oven of the Aga and sometimes forget about it,
but there was never a problem!
Q. Whats the best accompaniment to a burger?
A. A good craft beer.
Slow burn
That gourmet
burger in your
hand boasts
a long heritage...
The practice
of barbecuing
meat dates
back at
least 25,000 years,
archaeological
evidence suggests
23,000 BC
In Britain and Western Europe,

big-game hunting takes place in
forest reserves. It is common for
hunters to grill and eat the innards of
their quarry before taking the rest home
12th century
PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY IMAGES; MING TANG-EVANS
Tom Adams of Pitt Cue Co

engages in some heated debate
Spanish
explorers
notice Caribbean
natives slow-cooking meat
over re pits on wooden
frames called barbacoa
15th century
Eat to the beat

Christian Stevenson, aka DJ BBQ , dips his tongs into his music collection
and selects 10 prime cuts to get the summer party started
Song:
Bar-B-Q
Artist:
Wendy Rene
Why: A soul
classic that
celebrates
meats and
beats. A great
party opener
Song: Fire
Artist: Jimi
Hendrix
Why: The
chorus is, Let
me stand next
to your re.
Perfect. Jimi
is probably
singing about
a woman, but
thats cool
Song: Sweet
Home Alabama
Artist: Lynyrd
Skynyrd
Why: Is there
a better song
to listen to
while grilling
meat and
drinking beer?
No, there isnt
Song: Sardines
Artist: The
Junkyard Band
Why: A great
Go-Go tune
all about
barbecuing.
Sardines!
Hey! And pork
and beans!
Do your playlist
proud with our pick
of the best outdoor
wireless speakers...
Early 17th century
Song:
Pass The Peas
Artist:
The JBs
Why: Any BBQ
needs a good
selection of side
dishes, and this
will get people
dancing as they
ll their plates
Song: Fire
Artist: Kasabian
Why: Kasabian embrace party spirit,
and here they celebrate the vital,
primal ingredient of the BBQ
Song: Red Morning Light

Artist: Kings Of Leon
Why: These guys have admitted
they didnt really listen to music
while growing up: the only time they
heard a tune was in church or at
a family BBQ.
Red Morning
Light is from
their debut
album and,
unsurprisingly,
makes great
BBQ listening
Jarre AeroTwist
Cunning design allows this portable
speaker to twist into a variety of
shapes and sit pretty by the grill.
www.selfridges.com, 279.99
Meat box
Caribbean slaves
shipped to the Carolinas
bring barbacoa cooking
with them, forming the
basis of the Southern
barbecue tradition
Song: Stuck
In The Middle
With You
Artist: Stealers
Wheel
Why: The ideal
song to play
when putting
burgers together,
especially when
contemplating
what to slip
between
your buns
The Oxford English Dictionary cites the

rst recorded use of barbecue in the
English language, in Edmund Hickeringills
Jamaica Viewed: Some are slain, and
their esh forthwith Barbacud and eat
1661
Song: Jump
In The Pool
Artist:
Friendly Fires
Why: The
perfect moodsetter, even
if you dont
have a pool.
Great name for
a band, too
Song: All
Night Long
Artist: Lionel
Richie
Why: This will
nish off the
evening nicely,
or take things
to the next level.
There are always
more sausages
DJ BBQ is
appearing at this
years Grillstock
festival in Bristol
(7-8 June) and
Manchester
(28-29 June).
www.grillstock.
co.uk
Minx Go
Its 18-hour battery life
means itll outlast even
the hardiest of barbecues.
www.cambridgeaudio.com, 99.95
Barbecue parties become fashionable among European

settlers in the New World, often turning into raucous social
events. By the late 1600s, the state of Virginia is forced to pass
a law banning the discharging of rearms at barbecues
Late 17th century
BBQ SPECIAL
Well turned out

If you want to look like a pro when making burgers and salads, dont neglect
your dressing, says Dan Rookwood, Mr Porters American supremo
THE SHIRT Orlebar Brown Morton

Slim-Fit Linen. This is well-cut
and airy, so the chef can keep his cool
even if the sausages are charred.
www.orlebarbrown.co.uk, 165
THE HAT Borsalino

Sisal Straw Fedora.
Forget Pharrells: this
is the hat to own.
So classic and
well-made it should
last many a summer.
shop.borsalino.com,
258
THE ACCESSORY
Vogue Colour Coded Black Serving
Tongs. www.nisbets.co.uk, 5.99
Wolfgang Pucks
perfect steak
BBQ dos and donts

BURGER BUNS
CONDIMENTS
GARNISH
Brioche bun:
brilliant texture.
Wont fall apart
when lled
BBQ sauce:
a no-brainer.
Sweet Baby
Rays is best
Homemade
slaw: cabbage,
carrots, celery,
sweet vinegar
1. Always buy corn-fed

beef: it has more fat,
so its richer-tasting.
About half-an-inch
thick is perfect.
Maybe
Pretzel bun:
great at holding
wet meats such
as pulled pork
Yellow American
mustard:
great with chicken
and pork
BBQ beans:
with bacon,
onions, sugar and
a slug of bourbon
2. Season it simply. Just

a little salt and pepper
mixed with some dried
Provenal herbs should
do it.
Never
Baguette:
obstructs rather
than complements
your meat. Non!
Salad cream:
absolute
blasphemy.
Avoid
Pineapple
rings: this
is BBQ, not
the 1970s
Always
Tips provided by Briton Jackie Weight, the only non-American to win the title of
Grand Champion at the Jack Daniels Invitational BBQ Competition in Tennessee
George Washington is the rst

American president to host a
BBQ, noting in his diary that
he attended a Barbicue [sic]
of my own giving in Accatinck
1773
THE SHOES
Grenson Jerry Derby
Shoes. The no-sockswere-British trend is set
to continue this summer,
making these heatfriendly canvas shoes
a smart option. www.
grenson.co.uk, 185
Charles Lamb publishes

his essay A Dissertation
Upon Roast Pig, which
becomes a hit on both
sides of the Atlantic
1822
Ellsworth Zwoyer
of Pennsylvania
patents a design
for charcoal
briquettes
1897
3. Grill over wood or charcoal. Cook fast

and over a high heat for a light char and
a nice caramelised texture. One minute
each side for rare; two for medium rare.
4. Present with a Barnaise sauce
nished with a little Dijon mustard
to enhance the avour and richness
of the meat. Delicious.
A man walks into Louis

Lunch in New Haven,
Connecticut, and tells
owner Louis Lassen he
needs something he can eat on the move.
Lassen places steak trimmings between
slices of toast: the hamburger is born
1900
PHOTOGRAPH: AMANDA MARSALIS
THE SHORTS
J Crew 9 Stanton Cotton
Twill. When it comes to
lean, mean grilling machines,
you could teach George
Foreman a few tricks in these.
Go for cotton twill in navy
to hide cooking stains.
www.mrporter.com, 65
BBQ SPECIAL
Great balls of re
The USA is the spiritual home of the BBQ. But wheres its capital?
TENNESSEE
BBQ capital Memphis
State speciality
Dry-rub pork ribs
Key ingredients Salt,
sugar and spices
Best BBQ restaurant Central BBQ
(www.cbqmemphis.com)
Your order Full rack of dry ribs
State claim to US capital of BBQ title
The World Championship Barbecue
Cooking Contest is held in Memphis
every May (www.memphisinmay.org)
TEXAS
BBQ capital
Lockhart
State speciality
Beef brisket
Key ingredient
Chilli powder
Best BBQ restaurant
Blacks Barbecue (www.blacksbbq.com)
Your order Chopped beef brisket with
Norma Jeans BBQ sauce
European meat-smoking methods arrived
here with German and Czech settlers
US President
Lyndon B Johnson
hosts the rst-ever
barbecue state
dinner, in honour
of the Mexican
President-elect
1964
BBQ capital Lexington

State speciality Pulled pork
Key ingredients Eastern-style
North Carolina cue is all about vinegar
and cayenne pepper, whereas in the West
it is more ketchup-based.
Best BBQ restaurant
Lexington
Barbecue Center
(www.barbecue
center.com)
Your order Coarsechopped barbecue
sandwich with red slaw and BBQ dip,
washed down with sweet iced tea
North Carolina is nicknamed the
cradle of Cue, and Caribbean slaves
introduced their barbacoa method
of slow-cooking meat (see timeline) as
early as the 17th century. October sees
an entire month of pig-related festivities
in Lexington now in their 31st year
culminating in the annual Barbecue
Festival (www.barbecuefestival.com)
which attracts more than 100,000 people
MISSOURI
BBQ capital Kansas City
State speciality Burnt
ends: the avoursome,
charred chunks of meat
cut from the ends of
smoked beef or pork brisket
Key ingredients Tomatoes
and molasses
Best BBQ restaurant
Fiorellas Jack Stack Barbecue
(www.jackstackbbq.com)
Your order Jack Stack double-smoked
beef burnt ends with Strawberry Hill
smoked sausage
State claim to US capital of BBQ
title Kansas City alone is home to
100-plus barbecue restaurants, and
the surrounding area hosts several
of the biggest, best-attended BBQ
cooking contests in the US, including
the American Royal Open and the
Great Lenexa BBQ Battle
SOUTH CAROLINA
BBQ capital
Charleston
State speciality
South Carolina is
very much a tour de
sauce when it comes
to BBQs. There are no
fewer than four official state barbecue
condiments: mustard, vinegar and
pepper, heavy tomato and light tomato
Key ingredients Pepper and mustard
Best BBQ restaurant
Fiery Rons Home Team BBQ
(www.hometeambbq.com)
Your order Pulled pork BBQ Nachos
and Meat Combo platter with
smoked turkey and ribs
The inaugural World

Championship Barbecue
Cooking Contest
(WCBCC) later
dubbed the Superbowl
Of Swine is held at the
Memphis In May festival
1978
State claim to US capital of BBQ

title Its vinegar and pepper BBQ
sauce is the oldest in the US.
An epic feast in
Honolulu, Hawaii is
the rst to earn the title
Largest Barbecue in the
Guinness Book Of
World Records
1989
Memphis
In May
seizes
the world
record,
cooking up
a mind-boggling
55,297lb of pork
1990
The future of BBQ is

unveiled: the
Wi-Fi-enabled
Smart Grill, which
texts you when its
time to ip the burgers
2014
PHOTOGRAPHS: CORBIS
NORTH CAROLINA
W H E R E D O U. S. N A V Y
TEST PILOTS GO FOR
THEIR WATCHES?
THATS RIGHT,
HENLEY-ON-THA MES .
So lets get this straight.

The US Navy Test Pilot School,
home to some of the worlds crack
aviators, gets its watches from
Henley-on-Thames?
The home of cream teas, rowing and
cute waterfowl?
Actually, its not as daft as it might
sound.
Because Henley is also the home of
a company called Bremont.
The result is a chronometer with

an adjustable 24-hour hand, that
can display local time anywhere in
the world, together with Universal
Coordinated Time (the standardized
time zone used by the military).
Built by hand in our workshop, the
mechanical movement undergoes
an arduous testing process
(something it has in common
with its wearers) and is 99.998%
accurate.
And, over the last ten years, we have

developed watches for more than
forty different squadrons, both here
and in America.
The case is made from a stainless

steel thats seven times harder than
anything youll find in conventional
watches. (We bombard our steel with
electrons to toughen it up.)
The US Navy asked us to design

a timepiece for the elite pilots who
train at their school in Patuxent
River, Maryland.
Then we add not one, but nine

layers of anti-reflective coating to the
sapphire crystal for maximum clarity
and hardness.
People who cross time zones about

as frequently as the rest of us cross
the street.
Some might call all this excessive.

But its just the way we do things
here in Henley-on-Thames.
The question is, how do you get

your hands on one of these fine
watches?
Well, if youre between the ages of
17 and 34, and an American citizen,
you can of course apply to join the
US Navy.
But if for any reason that proves
problematic, youll be pleased to
hear we manufacture a version for
civilians, the Bremont World Timer
ALT1-WT.
For this, you need only apply
within at your nearest Bremont
retailer.
BBQ SPECIAL
Sauce of pleasure
Neglect glazes, chutneys and marinades at your peril
Recipes by Jason Atherton, Miles Kirby, Lee Bull, Ross Shonhan & Virgilio Martnez Vliz
BURGER CHUTNEY
Expert: Michelin-starred chef Jason Atherton, who opens City Social in Londons
Tower 42 this month (www.jasonatherton.co.uk)
Ingredients: 2kg Spanish onions; 200ml balsamic vinegar
Method: [1] Place the chopped onions in a very hot pan, add 5g salt and cook until golden. [2] Lower the heat,
stir and reduce until the onions become sticky. [3] Add the balsamic vinegar and reduce the mixture until you have
a syrupy glaze. [4] Allow to cool, then refrigerate the chutney.
LAMB CHOP MARINADE

Expert: Miles Kirby, chef and co-founder of Caravan (www.caravanonexmouth.co.uk)
Ingredients: cup gochujang (Korean hot pepper paste); 1 clove minced garlic; tsp minced ginger;
2tsp soy sauce; 1tsp caster sugar; 3tsp sesame oil
Method: [1] Combine the ingredients in a bowl and stir well. [2] Allow to stand for at least an hour. [3] When the
lamb is almost cooked, brush liberally with the marinade. Leave on the BBQ long enough only for the marinade
to caramelise in places, not burn all over. [4] Serve the lamb, once rested, on top of a portion of kimchi slaw with
a dollop of cucumber yogurt.
CHICKEN BBQ SAUCE

Expert: Lee Bull, executive chef of the newly opened Q Grill (www.q-bbq.co.uk)
Ingredients (makes four litres): 200g peeled garlic; 2g ground clove; 20g Kenco coffee; 40ml olive pomace oil;
2g ne sea salt; 5g dried chilli; 750g muscovado sugar; 1,170ml tomato ketchup; 400ml Moscatel white wine vinegar;
500ml Worcester sauce; 700g celery head; 1.3kg peeled white onions; 300ml bourbon.
Method: [1] Roast the garlic in tin foil for 30 minutes until brown and soft. [2] Place all the other ingredients
in a pan and bring to the boil. [3] Add the garlic and simmer on a low heat for 45 minutes. [4] Pass the sauce
through a sieve before serving.
MISO GLAZE FOR PORK RIBS

Expert: Ross Shonhan, chef proprietor of Flesh & Buns (www.eshandbuns.com)
Ingredients: Stock: 2 litres water; 20g table salt; 50g roughly chopped ginger; bunch spring onions; 200ml Kikkoman
soy sauce. Glaze: 200g shiro (white) miso; 50g cooking sake; 50g mirin; 130g brown sugar;
100g chilli garlic paste (lee kum kee); 80g ginger juice; 40g cooking sake
Method: [1] Place ribs in a big pot with the stock ingredients. [2] Bring to the boil for two minutes, then remove from
heat. [3] Leave ribs in the stock to cool completely. [4] To make the glaze, place the shiro miso, cooking sake, mirin and
sugar in a pan. Heat slowly, stirring with a spatula until the sugar is dissolved. Add the ginger juice, remaining sake and
chilli garlic paste. Mix well and cool.[5] Place the ribs on the BBQ without glaze. [6] When warm, brush the ribs with the
glaze and cook to caramelise the sauce. Repeat a few times until covered in a shiny thick glaze. Top with spring onions.
CACAO AND CORIANDER FISH GLAZE

Expert: Virgilio Martnez Vliz, head chef at Michelin-starred Lima (www.limalondon.com)
Ingredients (makes four servings): Three limes; 1 bunch coriander; 1 bunch carrot leaves; 1tsp chopped ginger;
1 yellow bell pepper; 100g 75% pure chocolate; 4tbsp honey; 300ml olive oil
Method: [1] Grill the coriander and carrot leaves until blackened. [2] Clean the yellow pepper and cut into small cubes.
[3] Saut the ginger and pepper in olive oil, then add the burnt leaves. [4] Melt the chocolate, adding the honey once
its done. [5] Blend all the ingredients together before squeezing in the limes and nishing with salt and pepper.
[6] Cover the sh llets with the sauce for 30 minutes before grilling.
He wears cotton shirt, 235, Paul Smith (www.

paulsmith.co.uk). Statesman-two tortoise frames,
340, Dita (www.doverstreetmarket.com). She wears
lace layered dress, 966, Michael van der Ham at
www.net-a-porter.com. Opposite, he wears cashmere
jumper, 556, Maison Martin Margiela (+44 20 7629
2682). Cuffed trousers, 355; Citizen watch, 205,
both Paul Smith (as before). She wears polka-dot polo
blouse, 120, Gerard Darel (www.gerarddarel.com).
Shorts, 129, Marciano Guess (+44 20 7292 2830)
STATE OF PLAY
Theres an intriguing side to this season with strong, intelligent looks inspired by
the Fifties. Styled by Matthew Buck. Photographs by Kalle Gustafsson
25
Above, cotton shirt, 230, Dolce & Gabbana (www.dolce

gabbana.com). Trousers, 520, Herms (www.hermes.com).
Sunglasses, 215, Prada at Sunglass Hut (+44 844 264
0860). Citizen watch, 205, Paul Smith (www.paulsmith.
co.uk). Opposite, he wears knitted polo, 385, Maison
Martin Margiela (+44 20 7629 2682). Cotton trousers,
250, Marni (+44 20 7245 9520). Statesman-two
tortoise frames, 340, Dita (www.doverstreetmarket.com).
Citizen watch (as before). She wears vest, 77, Koral
(www.joseph-fashion.com)
26
Above, shirt, 355, Louis Vuitton (www.louis

vuitton.co.uk). Cotton-and-linen trousers, 355,
Margaret Howell (www.margarethowell.co.uk).
Statesman-two tortoise frames, 340, Dita (www.
doverstreetmarket.com). Opposite, bra top, 215,
Sophie Hulme (www.selfridges.com). Techno cotton
trousers, 365, Emporio Armani (www.armani.com)
29
Printed silk shirt, 805,

Prada (www.prada.com).
Sunglasses (in pocket),
215, Prada at Sunglass
Hut (+44 844 264 0860).
Opposite, he wears Griffon
trousers, 195, Orlebar
Brown (www.orlebar
brown.co.uk). Statesmantwo tortoise frames, 340,
Dita (www.doverstreet
market.com). She wears
gold cuff, 285, Chlo
(www.chloe.com). Models,
Pierre Benoit Talbourdet
and Natacha Senechal
at Marilyn, Paris. Hair and
make-up, Ruth Warrior
at Lovely Management
using Krastase and Bobbi
Brown. With thanks to
Sotel Essaouira Mogador
Golf & Spa (www.sotel.
com) and Riad Baoussala
(www.hotel-baoussalaessaouira.com)
31
TABLE-HOPPING
WITH
ADAM RICHMAN
The Man v Food chow-down champ tells Francesca Babb about his best eats in the USA
STREET AND COMPANY
Portland, Maine
Their approach is less-is-more, and the results

are incredible. Theres a signicant Italian
inuence, but also a nice Spanish one. Its very
unpretentious it just serves some of the best
seafood ever. Try the lobster diavolo for two. The
baby octopus and the soup are incredible, too.
www.streetandcompany.net
BERNS STEAKHOUSE
BORGNE New Orleans
Tampa, Florida
Unrelentingly great. Chef Brian

Landry, who has lived in Spain and
all over America, elevates the food
of the hunting lodges around Lake
Borgne. The duck poppers are one
of the famous dishes, and theyre
unbelievable. I also like the black
drum (a popular Southern sh)
a la plancha, the stuffed artichoke
and the excellent cocktail menu.
They have their own bakery, grow

their own vegetables, brew their
own coffee, dry their own spices
and make their own uniforms,
plates and silverware. The quality
control is unbelievable. They have
a telephone that connects you
to a live piano player, who takes
requests. The special chateaubriand
is amazing, as is the French onion
soup and the macadamia-nut
sundae. www.bernssteakhouse.com
www.borgnerestaurant.com
The Chocolate Hazelnut

Puddin with condensed-milk
sorbet that they serve at
Borgne is insanely good
SLOWS BAR-B-Q
NO THANKS
Detroit
Great people making great food.

This is single-handedly one of the
biggest forces in the revitalisation
of an area called Mexicantown, and
it has the best mac n cheese on
planet Earth, fantastic dry-rubbed
wings, a chicken sandwich called
The Yardbird which is among my
favourites in the country and the
enchilada...! www.slowsbarbq.com
RUSSIAN TEA ROOM
NYC
I went here after seeing a friend perform

at Carnegie Hall, because its where
artists who played that venue would
always come afterwards. It was ridiculously
overpriced, the service was appalling,
and the quality of the food... Ive had
frozen ready-meals out of the microwave
that tasted better. Ill never go back
and Ill tell everyone else to stay away.
L&B SPUMONI GARDENS

New York
They make incredible Sicilian pizza and

spumoni (layered ice cream). Theres
a great mushroom-crusted rib-eye, and
pasta with a sauce of oranges, tomatoes
and shrimp. The tomato salad with
ricotta, dates, red onion and walnuts is
probably my favourite salad anywhere.
www.spumonigardens.com
Adam Richmans Fandemonium is currently on the Food Network (Freeview 41, Sky 262)
Original, limited-edition Art Deco posters by leading artists
Limited to editions of 280, our posters feature

glamorous resorts along the Cte dAzur, in the
French and Swiss Alps, as well as the worlds greatest
OPZ[VYPJH\[VTVIPSLZ7YPU[LKVUJV[[VUULHY[
paper, they are signed, hand-numbered and bear
our embossed stamp of authenticity. Each poster is
approximately 97 x 65 cms (38 x 26 inches).
Pullman Editions Ltd

94 Pimlico Road
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London SW1W 8PL
www.pullmaneditions.com
Tel: +44 (0)20 7730 0547
Email: georgina@pullmaneditions.com
Our central London gallery
Price: 395 each inc. VAT, unframed

All images and text copyright Pullman Editions Ltd. 2014
View and buy online at w w w.pullmaneditions.com
BY MICHAEL WATTS
PHOTOGRAPH: BENJAMIN GAGNON
ON A PRISTINE PEAK
IN CANADA THE MAN
BEHIND THE WORLDS
MOST FAMOUS CIRCUS
IS PERFORMING HIS
GREATEST FEAT YET
Clockwise from above: Daniel Gauthier; snow shoes at Le Massif, the ski resort he is developing in Charlevoix, Canada; a shop on the
main road; Le Train from Quebec City to the town. Previous pages, a torch-light parade on the main piste
ome 350 million

years ago (we cannot
be precise), a 15billion-ton meteorite
fell on what is now
Quebec, leaving a
crater 56km wide
and more than a kilometre deep.
Its the most important thing thats
ever happened in these parts. From
that distant cataclysm has emerged
Charlevoix, a region of untrammelled
beauty, named after an 18th-century
Jesuit explorer. Geologists maintain
that its the modern worlds largest
inhabited crater, habitation being
largely a necklace of pastel clapboard
towns and villages, many bearing the
names of Catholic saints, which are
strung like pretty beads along the
shores of the St Lawrence River.
The magisterial St Lawrence has
always been Charlevoixs vital artery
in the absence, until recent times,
of roads. Sometimes known as La
Mer, it courses northwards from the
The salmon rivers here are long and

bountiful, and there are black bears,
wolves and elk. We are in the middle
of nowhere, au diable vert, or what
my guide Charles Roberge reverently
calls the back country.
Roberge is a painter and naturalist
who has built a home in the back
country, a completely round house,
using wood from his own trees that he
cut down himself. People here are
dreamers, a bit romantic, he explained,
muttering, in a stage whisper. It is
because of the meteorite, I think.
Daniel Gauthier is infused with
the same spirit, but hes a dreamer
who is also a doer. Gauthier has
bought Le Massif, and his acquisition
has become the starting point of
Charlevoixs latest remarkable
transformation. He is a self-confessed
ski bum who has been coming here
since he was 16 and a penniless hippy,
and he says that he would happily ski
the mountain for the rest of his days.
For many like him, Le Massif is
longest of which is 5.1km. They

plunge down to the riverside village
of Petite-Rivire-Saint-Franois, and
inspire mounting exhilaration and
terror as the frozen St Lawrence
rears right up in your goggles. Truly,
river deep, mountain high.
At 55, Gauthier still enjoys skiing
the trickier black runs, and ies his
own helicopter every weekend from
the family home in Quebec City. He
looks pretty t, his body enviably
compact, with very light-blue eyes set
in a square, stubbled head. He is rich
from co-founding the international
circus, Le Cirque du Soleil, which
began in Charlevoix in 1984. At one
time, Le Cirque had 21 shows touring
in more than 200 cities around the
globe, including eight separate versions
in Las Vegas; it was turning over
about 220 million a year, at a prot
of nearly 55 million not bad for
the son of a Montreal food inspector.
In the almost 20 years he spent
with Le Cirque du Soleil, Gauthier
PHOTOGRAPHS: BENJAMIN GAGNON; NILS SCHLEBUSCH
AT ONE TIME, LE CIRQUE DU SOLEIL HAD 21 SHOWS

TOURING IN MORE THAN 200 CITIES AROUND THE
GLOBE, INCLUDING EIGHT VERSIONS IN LAS VEGAS
Great Lakes for 1,500km and more,
up to Montreal and storybook
Quebec City, thus enabling the
passage of huge cruise ships from
New York and Boston. In the 1920s,
steamships brought US presidents
and movie stars, including Charlie
Chaplin and Jean Harlow, to Le
Manoir Richelieu hotel, a fauxNormandy chteau in the resort of
La Malbaie on the northern shore.
Here, astonishingly, the river
widens to 16km and grows tidal as
it approaches the Atlantic Ocean.
And a short drive away, in the waters
of a marine park around Tadoussac,
several species of whale minke, blue,
humpback, nback, even endangered
beluga sport openly from June to
late October and excite sudden cries
of Baleine! from whale-watchers.
But most visitors come to
Charlevoix for its mountain, Le
Massif: of which more shortly. Inland
from the St Lawrence, rising steeply
through pine, aspen and maple trees,
is a UNESCO-approved World
Biosphere Reserve encompassing two
national parks and an ecological zone.
unique. It has cult appeal, not just

for local skiers but for Canadas
alpine downhill team, who have a
training centre here. One attraction
is its guarantee of deep snow, with
an annual average of more than
6.5 metres. There is also the novel
convenience that its summit is
accessed by road. Many skiers used
to hire a bus to get to it; not until
1992 were lifts installed by a not-forprot organisation, the Socit de
Dveloppement du Massif. Ironically,
a train from Quebec City went right
past but carried only freight, and
there was nowhere to alight. Every
winter, day-trippers and weekenders
would drive from Quebec City and
Montreal, then would head back after
skiing for lack of amenities. Gauthier
set out to remedy this.
Le Massif is really two mountains:
Le Massif and neighbouring Mont
Liguori, where the uniform terrain
is much liked by off-piste skiers. Le
Massif itself has the highest downhill
vertical, 770 metres, in eastern
Canada. There are 52 trails and
glades, including 25 black runs, the
helped reinvent the concept of the big

top as a grand spectacle of beautiful
bodies at their most elastic. But he
admits he was never much of an
acrobat; he was the one who ran the
logistics. I juggled the numbers, he
jokes. Now this veteran showman
is sprinkling some of that magic on
the streets of Baie-Saint-Paul, the
picturesque heart of Charlevoix.
In 2001, he sold his 50 per cent
share in Le Cirque to co-founder
Guy Lalibert for an amount never
specied (it is a private company)
but reputedly 325 million. He
came to Quebec City and settled
down as a family man (he has two
daughters, adopted in Mongolia).
But he was still restless. In 2002 he
paid the ailing Socit 5.5 million
for the mountains 100-year lease,
together with all assets, equipment
and debts, and planned what he
describes as The Project: acquiring
subsidies, partnerships (now ve) and
investment from the governments of
Canada and Quebec. Gauthier put
in 35 million. By 2005, work on the
infrastructure had begun.
Today, Le Massif is changing by

the week and Charlevoixs placid
community has been rendered
breathless by developments. Gauthier
is reshaping the mountain, opening
up its eastern face, building an auberge
and rental apartments for those
skiers who never had anywhere to
stay, with restaurants, shops, a ski
school and spa. He has installed new
lifts, a 100-metre-long footbridge and
a gondola; introduced a shuttle-train
service between villages; and, his
personal passion, created new runs,
particularly for intermediate skiers.
Gauthier is now keen to show off his
mountain to the world beyond Quebec.
He calls it an anti-resort: a
sustainable holiday location that
promotes local participation, traditions
and ecotourism. In Baie-Saint-Paul,
less than 20km from Le Massif, he
has built a hotel of bucolic glamour
on farmland once owned by the
nearby nunnery of Les Petites
Franciscaines de Marie. Htel La
Ferme is made up of ve low-slung
pavilions with faades of lightly
burnished wood that look down to
the St Lawrence across elds where

old nuns may be glimpsed, walking
in silent contemplation.
The hotel has a spa and a noted
restaurant, Les Labours, but also
several dorms where backpackers
can stay for about 40 a head. Each
pavilion smells pleasantly of the native
woods used in its construction, and is
heated by geothermal energy from
a borehole Gauthier has had dug.
To ll its 145 rooms, he has cleverly
bought and refurbished the rail
track, created new train stations,
purchased his own rolling stock and
grandly christened it all Le Train.
You catch the train, which now runs
only in summer, at the northern tip
of Quebec City, beside a charming
waterfall, then breakfast leisurely
as it hoots and tootles along the
river, scaring up great clouds of
geese at Cap Tourmente. It pulls in
one hour and 45 minutes later at
a platform within the hotel.
Gauthiers project is a three-part
masterplan: the train, the hotel and
the focus of it all the mountain. In
collaboration with Quebec City, he
is determined to bid for the Winter

Olympics at Le Massif in 2026 or
2030, although hes aware that the
mountain lacks the 800-metre drop
demanded by the IOC. So he is also
cajoling US broadcaster ESPN to
bring its extreme snow-sports event,
the Winter X Games, to Charlevoix.
Le Massif operates a premium
policy of low-density skiing, targeting
only 300,000 skier days a year, with
a one-day pass costing about 40 per
person. Therefore, Gauthier realised
early on that the resort had to
operate year-round to be nancially
viable. He is now developing 16km
of trails for hiking and biking. Visitor
statistics show that Charlevoix is
even more popular in summer, when
temperatures average a comfortable
21C. Autumn, when nature ames
red and then gold, is spectacular.
And springtime is le temps des sucres,
when the sap tapped from maples is
boiled down in back-country sugar
shacks or cabanes and served with
eggs, bacon and baked beans.
Gauthiers other innovations
include a concert hall in La Fermes
Above, an early-morning snowboarder rides the powder in the Camp-Boule sector of the mountain
PHOTOGRAPH: BENJAMIN GAGNON
THE COST WILL RISE TO 160 MILLION, WITHOUT HAVING
SEEN A PROFIT. YET GAUTHIER STILL POURS IN HIS FORTUNE

main building, which can be used
for business conferences in low
season. He is also in discussions with
Paris-based Club Med, which has
been scouting resorts in North
America that t its repositioning
in the lucrative family market.
The cost of the project started
at 125 million. When construction
nishes, possibly in 2015, it will
have risen to 160 million, without
having seen any prot. Yet Gauthier
continues to pour in his fortune,
seemingly without qualms. Im still
spending the money, he said, smiling,
as we sat in Le Bercail bar at his hotel
drinking the excellent local wheat
beer Dominus Vobiscum. His
explanation comes from the heart:
When I left Le Cirque, I had more
money than I needed for the rest of
my life. Why not reinvest it in the
region that gave me something?
We spent time reminiscing about
the origins of Le Cirque, right here in
Baie-Saint-Paul at Le Balcon Vert, a
youth hostel where he and Lalibert
lived on-and-off while performing
locally. It was a well-known destination
in the 1970s, drawing drop-outs from
all over Quebec. Together with a third
man, Gilles Sainte-Croix, they formed

a theatre troupe on stilts, the Club des
Talons Hauts. To raise funds, SainteCroix once walked 90km to Quebec
City on stilts, an accomplishment that
was splashed in the local newspaper,
Le Soleil. Its said thats how they
became Le Cirque du Soleil.
Lalibert was a school friend
who became a stilt-walker, busker
and re-eater. His personal wealth,
according to Forbes magazine,
now exceeds 1 billion. He has a
reputation for hedonism, summarised
by one Canadian publication as
Sex, drugs and acrobats. In 2009, he
paid an estimated 20 million to be
Canadas rst space tourist and was
pictured aboard a Russian rocket
wearing a clowns nose. Lalibert was
always striving to make Le Cirque
even bigger, but in the end Gauthier
balked at the cost, personally and
nancially. When it starts to get too
big, he told me, it is very difcult to
keep the spirit, the feeling of family.
Still, they remain close, and Lalibert
has invested 5.5 million for 10 per
cent of Le Massif de Charlevoix.
Gauthier may be less extrovert,
but he seems to possess the gift of
attracting devoted young staff willing

to leave big cities and follow him to
this beautiful but quiet backwater;
it may have something to do with the
extraordinary prestige enjoyed by Le
Cirque du Soleil in Canada a bit like
running away to join another kind of
circus. He is now a gure of national
stature, named an Ofcer of the Order
of Canada in 2004, and given Quebecs
most prestigious award, the Ofcier
de lOrdre National du Qubec, in
2012. But he talks still of his humble
beginnings at Le Balcon Vert.
The hostel is still going, so I visited,
one ne autumn day. Its up a rugged
track in a forest clearing at the top of
Cap-aux-Corbeaux a low, wooden
building painted mustard and olivegreen, with a big terrace for sitting
and watching Baie-Saint-Paul way
below. It looks nothing special, to be
honest, but the view is terric. I could
see Le Train, in miniature, rounding a
bend in the St Lawrence and sidling
up to Htel La Ferme. Snow was in
the air and winter would soon arrive,
bringing skiers; and this time, I
thought, they would be staying on.
www.lemassif.com; doubles at Htel
La Ferme from about 125
TRAVELLERS
LITTLE
BLACK
BOOK
THE VITAL
ADDRESSES
FOR MEN OF
THE WORLD
By David Annand
GROOMING
NOSE
Paris
With its great range of brands and
super-slick modern interior, this hip
scent store in le deuxime is surely Pariss
nest. The expert-led olfactory proling,
which matches you to the right cologne,
ensures it hits all the high notes.
20 Rue Bachaumont (www.nose.fr)
to match such as the Lozione

Dopobarba Vetiver, a bracing
post-shave pick me up. Via della
Scala 16 (www.smnovella.it)
BIGELOW
New York
All neon lights and Fifties
charm, this sits on Sixth
Avenue like something out of
West Side Story. The huge stock
includes its own CO Bigelow
range, with all kinds of oldschool products such as Barber
Cologne and bristling badger
shaving brushes. 414 Sixth Avenue
(www.bigelowchemists.com)
BOOKS
Shoe designer Tim Little recommends
his favourite bookstore
DAIKANYAMA
T-SITE Tokyo
This incredible
place covers an
entire block
in the centre of
Tokyo. The mission was to create
the best bookshop in the world and
its pretty much there. The building is
brand new and designed for the
purpose, with reading rooms,
international sections, music and
cafs. It is spectacular and the
architecture alone is worth going for.
17 Sarugakucho, Shibuya-ku
(www.t-site.jp)
BOEKHANDEL
DOMINICANEN
Maastricht
Dutch architects Merkx and Girods
conversion of a 13th-century church for
the Polare group is absolutely stunning.
With its vaulted ceilings and vertiginous
shelves, it elevates the act of reading to
the divine. The crucix table in

the coffee shop is cheekily
inspirational. Dominikanerkerkstraat
1 (www.polare.nl)
SHAKESPEARE & CO
Paris
Opened in 1919, Sylvia Beachs bookshop
was a hangout for Hemingway and Joyce
before it closed during the German
occupation. When it re-opened in 1951,
it picked up where it left off: as a bohemian
HQ for Americans in Paris, entertaining
Ginsberg and Burroughs. 37 Rue de la
Bucherie (www.shakespeareandcompany.com)
OUTDOORS
POLER
Portland, Oregon
Like Portland in miniature, this store is a
refuge for the anarchic
outdoorsman all caps and
beards and tattoo
sleeves. Camping gear
includes rugged rucksacks
and an Airblaster Ninja
Suit in camouage.
1300 West Burnside
(www.polerstuff.com)
AETHER NYC
New York
Camping shops in the UK
have a whiff of boy-scout
badges and Kendal mint
cake, but across the pond
theyre as cool as fashion houses if
Aethers mix of kick-ass kit, stylish rucksacks
and even snowmobiles is anything to go by.
13 Crosby Street (www.aetherapparel.com)
FARMACEUTICA DI SANTA
MARIA NOVELLA
Florence
PUKA PUKA
Hawaii
British chemists are rarely destinations in

their own right I mean, you dont see
tourists hot-footing it to Boots. But
Florence being Florence, this farmaceutica
is as gorgeous as a museum, with products
The white-pillared building is evocative of

the old American South but its collection
of supery surng gear is pure new-wave
Hawaii. 43 Hana Highway, North Maui
(www.pukapuka.tv)
Berlins Bass Cadet.

Below: Todd Merrill and
Retrouvius for furniture.
Opposite, from top: CO
Bigelow shave cream;
Nose; cologne at Poler;
Boekhandel Dominicanen
PHOTOGRAPHS: ROOS ALDERSCHOFF FOTOGRAPHIE; DAVID COOK; TOM FALLON PHOTOGRAPHY; GARY LA FARGUE
MUSIC
Its no surprise that Dalston, as the Worlds
Coolest Neighbourhood, is home to the
worlds coolest vinyl shop, Kristina Records
(44 Stoke Newington Road; www.kristina
records.com). We asked owner Jason Spinks
where he goes to nd the global groove
...IS THE PLACE

Madrid
Run by stalwarts of the citys house-music
scene, Madrids latest vinyl emporium
stocks a quality range of underground
dance music as well as rare secondhand
soul, jazz, funk and disco. Calle Gran Va 40
(www.facebook.com/istheP)
BASS CADET
Berlin
Its the clean lines and minimalist design
that rst catch the eye at this new Berlin
shop. But equally impressive is its range
of the best underground house and
techno for the citys in-the-know DJs
and music lovers. Westerstrasse 189
(www.basscadetrecords.com)
MOUNT ANALOG
Los Angeles
For the best outsider music from limitededition cassette runs of experimental
noise to the latest L.I.E.S 12 and general
ephemera for all lovers of underground
music. 5906 North Figueroa Street
(www.climbmountanalog.com)
FURNITURE
TODD MERRILL
New York
Fashion designer Clive Darby says:
This fabulous store in SoHo is full
of work by true 20th-century designers,
some better known than others. It
sells iconic furniture by some of my
personal design heroes, including
Paul Evans and Milo Baughman. It
takes me back to the 1970s with an
individual style that makes me want to
buy every piece. 65 Bleeker Street
(www.toddmerrillstudio.com)
Max Leonard, author of City Cycling

Europe, picks his favourite market
FLEA MARKET
B&W Loppermarked,
Copenhagen
Imagine the warehouse
at the end of Raiders
of the Lost Ark, yet lled
with vintage design and homeware.
The former shipbuilding complex
on Refshaleen, an island in the
dockyards north of the city centre,
makes an unprepossessing spot,
yet peep through the windows and
thats what youll nd: miles of midcentury teak furniture, table lamps
from oor to ceiling, reclining
armchairs, glassware and much more.
RETROUVIUS
London
Designer Oliver Spencer says: Tucked
away on an unprepossessing strip of the
Harrow Road, Retrouvius is the place for
well-curated reclaimed xtures and
furniture. Charismatic owner Adam Hill is
a man of exquisite taste. 1016 Harrow
Road, London (www.retrouvius.com)
ODDITIES
DEYROLLE
Paris
Author Max Leonard says: This eccentric
shop in St-Germain almost dees
description. Downstairs are books and
prints on subjects such as anatomy
and botany; upstairs is a whole zoo of
taxidermy. Stroll around and pick up a
lemur or, if youre feeling ush, a giraffe.
A few years ago, the wood-panelled shop
burnt down, and remen and members of
the public carried its treasures to safety.
46 Rue de Bac (www.deyrolle.com)
CLOTHES
DOVER STREET MARKET
NEW YORK
Late last year, fashion legend Rei Kawakubo
opened the Manhattan outpost of her
unique London store. Alternately bright
coloured and moodily monochrome,
sensuous and sculptural, overblown and
understated, its chaotic design is so striking
that even fashion refuseniks are advised
to seek it out. 160 Lexington Avenue
(www.doverstreetmarket.com)
SLUIZ
Ibiza
Shoe designer Tim Little says: The best
lifestyle shop Ive ever seen it makes
Corso Como and Collette look tired. It
has furniture, clothes, books, homewares
and a fantastic bar and restaurant. Its
beautifully curated and worth a visit even
if youre not in the spending mood.
Ibiza-San Miguel Km4 (www.sluizibiza.com)
Fashion designer Oliver Spencer

recommends his favourite clothes shop
DEHILLERIN
Paris
ANTONIA
Milan
When the worlds great chefs come to

Paris, which they inevitably do because,
well, its Paris, they always make time for
a visit to E Dehillerin, the delightful
cookware shop in Les Halles famous
for its pans. Whether copper-bottomed
or cast iron, all its products are sturdily
stylish. Even the fondue-maker has a
certain je ne sais quois. 51 Rue JeanJacques Rousseau (www.e-dehillerin.fr)
Antonia is
absolutely
stunning. The
clothes are
brilliantly chosen,
the furniture is
off-the-scale
and the marble interior is sensational.
It sums up everything that is good
about Italian design. An ace place.
Via Cusani 5 (wwww.antonia.it)
David Bradshaw of huntergather.com

picks his favourite vintage store
DECADES OF FASHION
San Francisco
This isnt just the best vintage store
along Haight Street; its one of the best
anywhere. Its housed in an old bank,
with vaults for changing
rooms, and an owner,
Cicily Hanson, so chic shed
give Coco herself a
style crush. Much of
the stock is
connoisseur
quality, and all
reects Hansons
impeccable taste.
1653 Haight
Street (www.decades
offashion)
CARS
Zai skis and, below, Hestra for gloves.

Left, a 1954 Chevrolet Corvette and
1966 Ford Mustang at Beverly Hills
Car Club. Opposite, clockwise from
top right: Dover Street Market New
York; Valentino T-shirt at Antonia;
Deyrolle in Paris; trainers at Sluiz
BEVERLY HILLS CAR CLUB

Los Angeles
Fashion designer Clive Darby says:
A garage from your boyhood dreams,
this mecca for vintage vehicles has
everything: Corvettes and Cadillacs,
Buicks and Bentleys. You can picture
Dean Martin and Robert Evans driving
these cars; and for those who love the
original Italian Job there are Austin Mini
Coopers that could have raced straight
out of the movie. 4576 Worth Street
(www.beverlyhillscarclub.com)
RAY SKILLMAN COLLECTOR

CAR SALES
Indiana
Neon-lit and louche as you like, Ray
Skillmans showroom takes you back to a
time when Americans ruled the road.
With its Pontiacs and Oldsmobiles, Road
Runners and Super Bees, its the place to
have fun fun fun if your daddy takes your
T-Bird away. 1280 US Highway 31 South,
Greenwood (www.rayskillmanclassic.com)
CLASSIC REMISE
Berlin
Half museum and half showroom, with a
car club, parts service, showroom and
service centre, this is a one-stop shop for
retro petrolheads. Housed in a former tram
depot, its stocklist reads like a Whos Who
of Europes motoring aristocracy, from
Porsche and Rolls-Royce to the Citron
2CV. Wiebestrasse 36 (www.remise.de)
PHOTOGRAPHS: MARC DANTAN; SAM TINSON
HESTRA
Helsinki
SKI
ZAI
Switzerland
It is a truth universally acknowledged
that Zai makes the most beautiful skis.
Strap on a pair of its polished walnut
Testa range and its impossible not to look
stylish on the slopes. And so its no
surprise that the agship store is similarly
gorgeous, if a little off the beaten track.
Via dalla Stampa 8, Disentis (www.zai.ch)
A specialist shop should be specialist,

right? No dabbling, no just chucking in
a bit of this and bit of that just because
you fancy. Its something that Hestra
understands, as it only sells skiing
gloves: 314 different pairs of them.
Kluuvikatu 1 (www.hestragloves.com)
MONCLER
Beijing
The Swiss masters of the quilted jacket,
Moncler is still the go-to name for looking
lively on the slopes. Its main store in
China is worth the visit for its loopily cool
army of mannequins and arty ski-themed
displays alone. Buildings 211, Sanlitun Road,
Chaoyang District (www.moncler.com)
No sweat
With his recent journey to the South Pole, retracing the ill-fated Terra Nova expedition, Ben Saunders
trekked his way into the pantheon of brave British explorers. David Annand gets up to speed
There must be something in the

water: Francis Drake was from
Devon, too. Theres always been
something about the snow; the polar
regions have that total extremity.
Then theres the scale: Antarctica
is almost twice the size of Australia.
Is the trek to the South Pole harder
than the North? In that its longer,
yes. But theyre both demanding

environments. In Antarctica we spent
a month above 2,800 metres. We had
to traverse a plateau that you reach
by climbing the Beardmore Glacier,
which is 110 miles long and heavily
crevassed. The big crevasses you can
see coming; the fear is breaking your
leg in a smaller hole. And at altitude
you get shortness of breath and
digestion problems. Its exhausting.
Whats been the most challenging trip
to date? This last one: it was almost
1,800 miles over 105 days. We slept

about ve hours a night and were on
the move for nine hours a day, pulling
sleds that weighed 200kg at the start.
Much of that was vacuum-packed
food, as we were on 6,000 calories
a day. Thankfully there was limitless
water around us, which only needed
boiling, and 24-hour sun to recharge
the satellite phone and GPS. Out of
sight of the Transantarctic Mountains,
there are no landmarks, just a snow
desert all the way to the horizon.
Ben Saunders bikes near snow-free,

bear-free Camasunary on the Isle of Skye
Have you ever had frostbite? I did on
my rst trip, in my left big toe. But

it was minor and Ive still got all my
digits. You would think youd come
back super-tough, but its the reverse:
you are exhausted. Id imagined that
when we crossed the nish line wed
feel emotional and ecstatic, but we
were so tired we just crawled over it.
What we achieved is still sinking in.
Who was the greatest explorer? Ive
returned with renewed respect for
Scott. He gets a hard time, but what
Gateway. Its stunning. Very few

people have experienced it, and
when youre there you can imagine
how Shackleton felt when he realised
hed found the way to the Pole.
Where have you been recently? Ive
been in Switzerland with ve other
explorers, including Ranulph Fiennes,
a boyhood hero of mine. We were
mentoring young explorers for the
Land Rover Discovery Adventure
Challenge, which was won by Alex
Woodford, who is 22. Land Rover
We were just metres from a polar bear,

trying to re this dodgy Russian shotgun to
scare it off. Eventually it stopped jamming
they achieved was remarkable. Im
also incredibly impressed by Ernest
Shackleton, who got 97 miles from
the Pole and turned home. He
famously told his wife, A live donkey
is better than a dead lion, isnt it?
Whats the best way to ward off a polar
bear? They can move at 30mph, so
you cant outrun them. On my rst

trip with my mentor, Pen Hadow
we were just metres from one,
trying to re this dodgy Russian
shotgun into the air to scare it off.
Eventually the gun stopped jamming.
You just have to make lots of noise.
has been a fantastic partner; I did

some pre-trip prep in its cold-climate
chamber in Warwickshire. Its -60C
far colder than Antarctica!
Whats next? First, a bit of a break,
then Ill be writing a book about
the Scott trip. But I know it wont
be long before I get out the bike
and head off to the hills.
Whats the most beautiful thing

youve seen on your travels? At
the Beardmore Glacier, theres

a very small opening between
two mountains, known as the
PHOTOGRAPH: MARTIN HANDLEY. WITH THANKS TO LAND ROVER
Both you and Robert Scott, the man

in whose footsteps you followed, were
born in Plymouth. What is it with you
West Country boys going to the Poles?
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SPECIAL 200TH ISSUE

MAY 2014 3.99

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PHOTOGRAPHS: MATTHEW BUCK; STEFANO SCATA; STEFAN WETTAINEN

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