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Wine Making for

Beginners
Greg Cook, 4 Elements Winery
Bob Thaden, Tongue River Winery

ND Grape and Wine Association


annual meeting and conference
31 January 2014

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Wine Making 101

Grow grapes
Pick grapes
Crush grapes
Ferment grapes
Bottle wine
Drink wine

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Why Grapes?

Grapes have the right amount of sugar (18-30%) and the


right amount of acid (0.3-1.5%) to ferment to a beverage
that is self-preserving.

C6H12O6
(sugar)

yeast

2 C2H5OH + 2 CO2
(ethanol)

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Wine from other fruits

Wine can be made from many


fruits, vegetables, herbs, flowers,
even coffee and tea

Need to balance flavors, acid and


sugar to achieve a balanced wine
Often diluted with water but not always
Some great fruit wines are made from straight fruit like
grape wines

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Grapes: Theres more than just sugar and acid

Astringent
Tannins

Anthocyanins
Quercetin

Resveratrol
Tannins

Sugars

Catechins

Acids

Water

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Flavors come from many factors

Flavors from the grapes


Ferment with or without the skins (and stems)
Yeast strains matter
Development of aromatic esters
Aging in wood
Secondary fermentation

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Red vs White Wine: Stylistic Differences

White wines are generally lighter in body, more delicate in

Red Wines are heavier in body, fuller in flavor, and have

flavors, and low in tannins (astringency)


greater tannin structure

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Red vs White: Basic Wine Making Difference

RED WINES

WHITE WINES

Harvest grapes
Crush grapes
Ferment with skins
Press wine from skins
Malolactic Fermentation
Age, usually in oak barrels
Bottle wine
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Harvest grapes
Crush grapes
Press juice from skins
Ferment juice only
Age, usually in steel
Bottle wine

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Red Wine: Crush

Grapes are destemmed and crushed to break the skins open

Additives at crush:

but not break the seeds


Potassium Metabisulfite (K-Meta)
Pectinase

Wait 12-24 hours


Add fermentation tannins
Add Oak
Add Yeast

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Red Wine: Pre-Fermentation Measurements

Measuring the Sugar (and potential alcohol)

Brix (or Specific Gravity)

Tools: Hydrometer (SG) or


Refractometer

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Red Wine: Pre-Fermentation Measurements

Measuring the acid (Tartaric and Malic)

pH - a measure of acid strength


Titratable Acidity (Total Acidity) (TA) - a measure of the
total amount of acidic protons - buffered and not

Tools: pH meter, TA titration kit

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Red Wine: Pre-Fermentation Adjustments

Low Sugar

High Sugar

Low Acid

High Acid

Add sugar to desired brix level


Dilute with water
Add tartaric acid (in small increments) and retest
Dilute with water or blend with lower acid juice, chemical
deacidification

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Red Wine: Primary Fermentation

Hydrate yeast according to instructions and pitch into must


Go-Ferm, yeast hydration nutrient

Fermentation should start in earnest in a day or two

Punch down the cap at least twice a day

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Red Wine: Primary Fermentation

Yeast Nutrients - e.g. Fermaid K

After ~1/3 of fermentation done, add nutrient


add all at once or half now and half after ~2/3
fermentation

Diammonium Phosphate (DAP)

If nitrogen levels low or fruit is not optimal (underripe or


damaged, add DAP

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Red Wine: Malolactic Fermentation

ML Fermentation converts Malic acid into Lactic acid

This lowers the acidity some and produces a smoother,


rounder flavor for the wine. The formation of diacetyl can
produce buttery flavors in the wine.

Use a ML Bacteria culture suitable for your pH. ML nutrients

Add during primary fermentation

can be used, e.g. ACTI-ML

Can be added around day 3


Often added near the end of primary fermentation
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Red Wine: Malolactic Fermentation

ML Fermentation can take 4-8 weeks to complete


ML bacteria very sensitive to sulfite, so do not sulfite until
ML fermentation is complete
ML fermentation monitored by paper chromatography

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Red Wine: Primary Fermentation

When fermentation is near complete it is time to press and


rack into a secondary container with an airlock

SG will be close to 1.000 and CO2 production will slow


down. Skin cap may no longer be lifted up on top of wine.

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Red Wine: Secondary Fermentation

Once fermentation slows down, it is important to prevent

Wine is transferred into a carboy (or tank/barrel) and fitted

exposure to oxygen as much as possible


with an airlock.

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Red Wine: Secondary Fermentation

The last bit of sugar fermentation


should be complete within about 4
weeks (SG <0.998)

ML fermentation may take longer


To speed up ML fermentation, keep
the carboy in a warm location

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Red Wine: Racking and Settling

After fermentation is complete and


sediments begin to settle out, rack
the wine into a clean carboy and
add potassium metabisulfite (Kmeta)

1/4 tsp (1.5 g) per 5 gallons will


be about 50 ppm

You can add oak staves, cubes or


spirals if you want to infuse oak in
your wine
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Red Wine: Bottling

Once the wine is brilliantly clear, it can be bottled


If you are making a dry wine, just make sure you have
adequate sulfite levels and bottle
IF you desire a sweeter wine:

Add sugar to desired sweetness level and add


Potassium Sorbate* in addition to sulfite
Professional sterile filtration is done commercially
Bottle the wine dry and add sugar when serving

*ML fermentaiton with sorbate present will ruin your wine with a geranium smell and taste
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White Wine

Process is essentially the same, except:

After grapes are crushed, the must is allowed to settle,

Grapes pressed first and only juice is fermented - some

preferably cold, for ~12 hours


exceptions (e.g. orange wine)
ML fermentation is generally not done for most, but can
be done for some styles
Bentonite fining is recommended to prevent protein
hazes later on
Cold stabilization recommended to prevent tartrate
crystals from forming in the bottle
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Cold Stabilization

Potassium salts of tartaric acid precipitate out of wine when


it is chilled. For white wines, if the wine is not cold
stabilized, this may happen when you chill your bottles

Chill the bulk wine at ~25F for at least two weeks then rack
the wine off the crystals that form. Seeding can help.

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Equipment Needed

Food grade primary fermentation container

Bucket with a loose fitting lid. Should be able to hold


about 40% more volume than your batch size due to
foaming and rising cap

Secondary containers

Glass or Plastic carboy - recommended to have at least


two for racking purposes ($25-$50)

Hydrometer and test jar (and/or refractometer) ($10)


pH meter (small portables $50-$250)
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Equipment Needed

Sulfite analyzer ($250)


Gram scale is useful ($25)
Hoses, racking canes, silicone bungs, airlocks, bottling
wands, corker

FermCalc software - free - on-line. Very useful for

http://www.winemakingtalk.com is a great on-line forum for

calculating additives, sugar, alcohol, etc.


new winemakers

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Chemicals and Additives Needed

Yeast, yeast hydration nutrients, yeast fermentation nutrients


Potassium metabisulfite
50 ppm = ~0.3 g per gallon, 1/4 tsp per 5 gallons
Potassium sorbate
to prevent fermentation of sweetened wine
1/2 tsp per gallon

Fining agents: bentonite, sparkaloid, superkleer, others


Pectic enzyme, Lysozyme, ML Bacteria

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Dont forget to label your wine!

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