The Art of the Long Sword The German System of Medieval Fencing by Master Vortigern Lord Elphin ap Daftyd & Lord Kirk Dragomani, Provost of the Academie Class Synopsis: ‘The purpose of this class is to teach the period style and techniques of long sword fencing as it was practiced in Germany in the Middle Ages. We will look specifically at the techniques detailed in the verses of the great German fencing master Johannes Liechtenauer, and the later commentaries upon those verses by Sigmund Ringeck. The techniques will be taught as they were actually used (to the best of our knowledge) in the Middle ages. It will be up to the individual student to adopt these techniques for use in SCA rapier or armored combat.Introduction “Here begins the exposition on the knightly art of the long sword, rhymed by the great master Johannes Liechtenauer. He wrote down the teachings in secret and hidden words so that the art would not become known by all. And these secret and hidden words have been written down and interpreted by Sigmund Ringeck, the present fencing master to Albrecht, Count of the Rhein and the Duke of Bavaria. He that knows how to fence will understand these teachings.” - Sigmund Ringeck Johannes Liechtenauer was a German fencing master in the late 1300's. He formulated a system of combat Tocusing on the long sword fencing, coded into a seriese of rhyming verses, that was the foundation for the German school of long sword fencing for the next 500 years. Sigmund Ringeck Was a German fencing master in the early 1400's. He was one of the first masters to actually write down Liechtenauer's verses, along with his own commentaries. His book is one of the few surviving manuscripts that gives a clear view of the core teachings of the Medieval art of long sword fencing. Itis upon the writings of these two individuals that we base this lesson. The Sword - What is a Long Sword? A long sword is a sword that can be used with either one or both hands. A long sword typically has a blade of similar length to a single-handed sword, but with a hilt long enough to be grasped with two hands, and typically reached from your hand to the middle of your forearm, Long swords were also known as “bastard i swords” or “hand-and-a-half swords". Long swords with blades somewhat longer than single-handed swords were known as “great swords”, and were used in the same way as long swords. Swords that were too heavy to be used with one hand, and with hilts typically Jong enough to reach from your hand to your elbow, were known as “Two-Handed Swords”. This lesson does not deal with the proper use of 2-handed swords. A Long Sword has two edges. The edge that faces your opponent and is aligned with the kiuckles is known as the Long Edge or Tine Edge, while the edge that faces you is known as the Short Edge or the False Edge. As with all swords, the blade is considered to have two parts - strong and weak. The strong part is from the cross guard to the middle of the blade, while the weak part of the blade is from the middle of the blade to the point, WeakHand Placement & Footwork Hand Placement- The strong hand always grips the sword just below the cross guard, The weak hand grasps the sword below the strong hand on the hilt or on the pommel. The strong hand is never taken from the sword, but the weak hand may come away from the sword to grasp, push or grapple. Footwork - Long sword footwork is different from traditional fencing footwork. You must lead with the foot that is opposite from the side you are holding your sword on. If you have your sword on your right side, your left foot should be leading. (For simplicity, this lesson assumes a student is right handed. If you are left-handed, reverse any footwork outlined in this lesson.) All of these steps can be reversed and used to retreat. short step with the rear leg. This step does not change which leg leads. Passing Step - This is a step forward with the rear foot past the leading foot. This step changes which leg leads, and as a result which side you hold your sword on. Vortigem stands in the Roof Guard. He is right handed, so he grips his sword with his right hand just below the cross guard. His left hand grasps the sword below his right hand. He stands with his left foot leading, so he holds his sword on his right side. by a sweeping step around with the rear foot. This step also changes which leg leads. This step is useful for avoiding attacks, or for moving to attack your opponent's flank.Primary Guards There are 4 primary guards (vier leger) that you begin fencing from. These guards form the comerstone of the German system. Fool (Alber) - Stand with your right foot forward. Hold the blade out in front of you pointing down. This guard is used to launch upward attacks, Plow (Phlug) - Stand with your left foot forward. Hold the blade to your right, low against your belly, with the blade inclined ‘upwards at a 45 degree angle towards your ‘opponent. This guard is used to launch upward thrusts and to parry attacks to the lower body. ‘Ox (Ochs) - Stand with your left foot forward. Hold the blade up by the right side of your face with the point towards your opponent, This guard is used to launch downward thrusts; also used to parry attacks to your upper body. Roof (Vom Tag) - Stand with your left foot forward. Hold the blade at the right side of your face with the blade pointing straight up, or with the blade above your head and pointing slightly backwards. This guard is used to launch powerful downward or horizontal attacks and to parry attacks to the head and upper body.Secondary Guards There are a number of secondary guards in the German system. These are either transitional guards that you move through as you attack or defend, or guards that you adopt in special circumstances, Lower Guard (Nebenhut) Right Side - This guard can be taken with either foot forwards. Hold your sword at your side pointing down. If you have the sword on your Tight side point the sword slightly backwards. Upward as well as downward attacks can be launched from either side in this guard, This guard also prevents your sword from being bound by your opponent. Lower Guard (Wechselhut) Left Side - If you are holding the sword on your left, point it slightly forwards. This is a guard you énter as you complete a downward strike or cut from Roof on the left. Apart from the 4 primary guards listed previously, these two lower guards are the only other guards Ringeck recommends that you begin fencing from. They provide the fencer with a wide range of deceptive attacks as well as several simple yet effective counter attacks Middle Guard or Speaking Window (Sprechfenster) - Stand with either foot forwards as needed. Extend your arms somewhat in front of you with your blade pointing upwards at your opponent, This is a guard adopted when you bind your opponent's blade. Through the contact with your opponent's blade you can sense his intent. Long Point (Langenort) - Extend your arms straight out in front of you, pointing your sword directly at your opponent. This is a transitional guard that “you ‘pass through when making many strikes and cuts, and is the final position of your sword when making most thrusts. This is also a guard that can be adopted when you need to create or maintain space between you and your opponent, as he cannot attack you without first geiting past your sword.Secondary Guards (continued) Barrier (Schranckhut) - Stand with either foot forwards as needed, Extend your arms out in front of you with the blade hanging straight down. This is a transitional guard used to bind your opponent's blade as you close with him. It can also be used to deflect a thrust to your lower body, ‘Crown (Kron) - Stand with either foot forwards as needed, Extend your arms somewhat in front of you, pointing your sword straight up while bringing the cross guard up just above your head (OK, pretend our waisters have cross guards). Turn your cross guard so that the quillions point right & left. This is a transitional guard used to defend against high attacks to your upper body or head. ie 4 \ thAttacking using “The Three Wounders” - Thrusts ‘Thrusts are attacks made with the point of the blade, and are usually made at outer distance. Thrusts usually begin in Fool, Plow, or Ox, and end in Long Point. Thrusts can be followed with a gathering step with the leading foot (for shorter thrusts), or a passing step with the rear foot (for longer thrusts) Thrusting from OxAttacking using “The Three Wounders” - Strikes Strikes are attacks made by chopping with the blade. They are sually made at middle distance. Strikes are made by starting in one guard, passing through Long Point, which is the center of focus for the strike, and ending in a third guard, Strikes are always followed by a passing step with the rear foot. Upper Strike (Oberhau) - Any strike made from aboye the waist, cither diagonally or vertically downwards. Typically starts from the one of the higher guards such as Roof, strikes with the long edge, usually passes through Long Point (the point of focus), and ends in one of the lower guards - Fool, Plow or Lower Guard. Middle Strike (Mittethau) - A left to right (or vise versa) strike at middle height. May start in most of the upper or lower guards, and typically ends in Plow. Lower Strike (Unterhau) - Any strike made from below the waist, either diagonally or vertically upwards. Usually starts from Fool or Barrier and ends in one of the upper guards - Roof or Ox,Attacking using “The Three Wounders” - Cuts Ai ie Cuts are attacks made by drawing or pushing your blade across your opponent's body. They are sually made at close distance. Cuts should be made forcefully with strength. Cuts are typically made to the hands or arms, either as your opponent closes or from the bind By cutting to the hands or arms you stop your opponent's attack and prevent him from cutting you in turn, Vortigern stands in Fool while Elphin attacks from Roof. While Elphin continues his attack, Vortigern compass steps with his left foot while extending into a high Long Point and catches Elphin’s leading wrist. Vortigern continues stepping around with his right foot while making a forceful downward cut to both of Elphin's wrists.Defending with Counter Attacks - Thrusting into an Attack Setting aside your opponent's sword (Absetzen) ‘Thrust’ into your opponent's strike or thrust, pushing his blade aside and closing off his line of attack while simultaneously thrusting at him. This should be done as a single-time action. Thrusting into an attack may not work well against a stronger opponent, especially if you are thrusting into a strike. i ae Elphin prepares to attack with a thrust from Ox, Vortigern waits in Fool. As Elphin thrusts, Vortigem raises his sword into Ox and collects Elphin's point on his blade. Vortigern then steps forwards and thrusts from Ox into Elphin's chest.Defending with Counter Attacks - Defending with Deflection (Versetzen) Strike into your opponent's strike or thrust and. close off his line of attack. Strike either his blade, or both his blade and his body. This should not be done as a static parry. If you strike only your opponent's blade, then launch your own attack from whatever guard your ‘counter attack ended in Elphin begins an attack - a strike to Vortigem’s head. Vortigern compass steps to the right while striking into Elphin’s attack. Vortigern strikes both Elphin's sword and his head. Striking into an Attack 10Five Master Strokes - The Stroke of Wrath Liechtenauer described five attackes he called "Master Strokes". They were five specialized sword movements that simultaneously attack your opponent and defend you from his attacks. The Strike of Wrath (Zornhaw) is a downward diagonal stroke at your opponent's left side with the long edge of your sword that starts from Roof and ends at the Lower Guard on your opposite side. Itis a strong opening attack. It can also be used to break an incoming attack, Vortigern stand in Roof. Elphin prepares to attack with a thrust. As Elphin thrusts into Long Point, Vortigern compass steps to his right and srikes diagonally downward into Elhpin’s thrust ground and can now begin an attack of his own. iFive Master Strokes - The Cross Stroke The Cross Strike (Zwerchaw) is a high horizontal stroke to the left or the right from Roof with the long edge, which can strike your opponent on either side, high or low. It can be used to break the Roof guard by striking your opponent's head and sword simultaneously. (This move is illustrated in "Defending with Counter Attacks - Striking into an Attack") It is also useful for launching multiple attacks, as each stroke sets you up for the next cros stroke on the opposite side. Vortigern cross srikes high to Elphin's left side. Elphin moves to Roof on his left side and parties. ike, this time low to Elphin’s right side. Elphin again moves to parry, but parries high, missing Vortigern's blade and is struck on the leg. 12Five Master Strokes - The Crooked Stroke The Crooked Stroke (Krumphaw) is a downward vertical stroke from Roof with the Jong edge at your opponent's opposite side and ends in Ox on the same side that you started from. It can be thrown with either the long edge or the short edge of the sword. It is used to attack an incoming strike or thrust by attacking your opponent's hands while stepping back. It is also used to breaking the Ox guard by attacking your opponent's hands or lead arm. Vortigem strikes a downward diagonal stroke into Elphin’s thrust, closing the line of attack and ending (more or less) in Ox himself. Having knocked Elphin’s point aside, Vortigern now moves into Long Point, thrusting into Elphin’s exposed face. 13Five Master Strokes - The Squinting Stroke ‘The Squinting Strike (Schielhaw) is a diagonal inside stroke from Roof that strikes with the short edge at your opponent's sword or chest. ‘This is accomplished by rolling the right wrist up towards the forearm. The strike ends in Plow on the opposite side. It is used to jam an attack made by an aggressive opponent by cutting or thrusting into his attack. It can also be used to break the Plow guard by striking his sword and then thrusting to his chest. This stroke can also be used to break Long Point. First strike downward with the long edge onto his blade, then immediately roll the stroke into a squinting stroke and thrust into his chest. Vortiger stands in Roof while Elphin prepares to attack from Plow. Elphin begins a thrust. Vortigern immediately compass steps to his right and srikes a squinting stroke into Elphin's attack, closing off Elphin’s line of attack, Strike your opponent's blade with the short edge of your blade. This is accomplished by rolling, your wrist up towards your forearm, Having knocked Elphin's point aside, Vortigern continues through to Long Point and thrusts to Elphi throat.Five Master Strokes - The Scalp Stroke The Scalp Strike (Schaytelhaw) is a high downward stroke from above your head, aimed at either the top of your opponent's head, or stopping just short of his face or neck and immediately thrusting It is useful for breaking the Fool and other low guards because high strokes and thrusts have greater reach than low strokes or thrusts This attack can be made while stepping forward or backward, Vortigern stands in Roof while Elphin prepares to thrust As Elphin thrusts, Vortigern moves to guard above his head Vortigern slips back just out of range of Elphin's thrust. However, Elphin is still in range of Vortigem’s strike. aedPractice Exercises ‘The Frankenstein Walk Stand with your right foot forward; extend your left hand, Withdraw your left hand and extend your right hand while taking a passing step with your left foot. Withdraw your right hand and extend your left hand while taking a passing step with your right foot. Repeat. Reverse and do this exercise while stepping backwards, ‘The Zig-zag Frankenstein Walk - Requires a partner Stand facing your partner with your right arm extended to their chest and your left foot forwards. As your partner steps backwards normally with a passing step, you step forwards using the Frankenstein Walk above, but using a compass step instead of a passing step - you should now be slightly to the right of your partner with your left hand touching their chest. Take another step with your partner - you should now be slightly to their left with your right hand touching their chest. Repeat Do not do this backwards - you will hurt yourself... Practice Kata Start in Fool, right foot forward Thrust to Longpoint with a passing step (your left foot is now forward) Parry up to Ox Thrust to Longpoint with a passing step (right foot is now forward) Parry to Plow Thrust to Longpoint with a passing step (your left foot is now forward) Parry to Roof, Cut down to Fool with a passing step ending in the original position This emphasizes the thrust for rapier while showing the fluid movements between guards as we would use them in rapier. This also gets the footwork working with the correct foot forwards in relation to your blade position. You can move through it while moving forward or backward as long as you step with the thrust, not the parry. You can also move through this kata using compass steps instead of passing steps. The Kata is set up for right-handers. For left-handers, start with the left foot forward. 16About the Authors Elphin, Kirk and Vortigern became interested in the Long Sword’ in early 2006 when Vortigern purchased his first longsword-style rapier from Alchem, Inc. When each of us held that first blade in our hands for the first time we all got the same maniacal gleam in our eyes....and the other fencers backed away slowly! Vortigern and Elphin first met when they started fencing on the fencing team at the University of South Carolina in 1987. They have been fencing against each other regularly ever since. Kirk has deen fencing since 1978. He began fencing with Vortigem and Elphin at the Cyddlain Downs fighter practice in 1996. He was our photographer and made the wooden waisters wwe used in these photographs. Further Practice We practice with the long sword at the Cyddlain Downs fighter practice. This is held at the River Front Park in Columbia, SC on Tuesday nights from 6pm untin 9pm, We also hold frequent long sword practices at Elphin’s house in Chapin, SC on Sundays, starting at 2pm. ‘You can contact us at the emails and phone numbers listed below: Elphin / David Slice David.Slice@BellSouth.com 803-354-6589 Kirk/ Kit Holland kith@bellsouth.net 803-419-0906 Vortigem / Danny Hansen craftycelts@ mindspring.com 803-532-7828 Special Thanks ‘Thanks to Etain, Gwyneth, Felipe and Daniel of Cyddlain Down for allowing us to regularly menace them with four foot long rapiers. Their feedback was crucial to our work. Bibliography Tobler, Henry Christian, Fighting with the German Longsword. Chivalry Bookshelf, 2004 Lindholm, David and Peter Svard, Sigmund Ringeck's Knightly Art of the Longsword. Paladin Press, 2003. Windsor, Gyy, The Swordsman's Companion, a Modern Manual for Medieval Longsword. Chivalry Bookshelf, 2004. Talhoffer, Hans, Mark Rector, John Clements, Medieval Combat, A Fifteenth-Century Manual of Sword Fighting and Close-Quarters Combat. Greenhill Boohs, 2000. 17