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Ancient Egyptian Assyrian Persian Costumes Decorations 1920
Ancient Egyptian Assyrian Persian Costumes Decorations 1920
Ancient Egyptian Assyrian Persian Costumes Decorations 1920
TECHNICAL HISTORY
OF COSTUME
IN PREPARATION
INDIAN,
PERSIAN,
CHINESE
AGENTS
AMERICA
ATJBTEALA8IA
CANADA
.....
MARTIN'S HOUSE,
OHOA
70
ANCIENT EGYPTIAN
ASSYRIAN AND
PERSIAN COSTUMES
AND DECORATIONS
-
BY
MARY
HOUSTON
G.
AND
FLORENCE
S.
HORNBLOWER
A.
4,
fcf
&
BLACK, LIMITED
SOHO SQUARE, LONDON, W.
C.
1920
INTRODUCTION
IF this work
it will
Every
illustration of
for
in
material.
Where
centuries,
the
INTRODUCTION
vi
of the
when the
simple tunic
so-called
common
to
Magyar blouse
(really the
be
reference libraries.
MARY
G.
HOUSTON.
CONTENTS
ANCIENT EGYPTIAN COSTUME
ANCIENT ASSYRIAN COSTUME
ANCIENT PERSIAN COSTUME
vii
43
-
75
LIST
OF PLATES
IN
COLOUR
PLATE
PAGE
I.
II.
III.
THE GOD
IV.
V.
OSIRIS
ANI, A SCRIBE
...
18
17
21
VI.
VII.
VIII.
IX.
15
-23
-29
25
X.
33
XI.
51
61
71
73
XII.
XIII.
KING ASSUR-NASIR-PAL
XIV.
QUEEN OF ASSUR-BANI-PAL
XV.
XVI.
LIST
IN
FIG.
63
2.
81
OF ILLUSTRATIONS
11
FIG. 3.
FIG. 4.
SLEEVELESS TUNIC
11
11
ix
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
continued
PA.QH
FIG.
FIG.
5.
6.
FIGS. 7,
FIG. 10.
ROBB, UNDRAPBD ROBB, DRAPBD AND GIBDED 8 AND 9. THREE VIEWS OF A DRAPED ROBB
Two
FIG. 16.
SHAWL OR DRAPERY
14
18
19
20
27
81
32
35
37
38
FIG. 18.
FIG. 20.
DRAPING OF A CLOAK
FIG. 21.
FIG. 22.
39
AN
41
49
INDIAN SARI
FIG. 30.
FIG. 31.
53
55
FIG. 32.
57
FIG. 33.
59
65
FIGS. 34, 35
AND
36.
FIG. 37.
FIG. 38.
FIG. 39.
69
FIG. 40.
80
FIGS.
41 AND 42.
DRAPERY
MODERN DRAWING
FIGS.
43 AND 44.
FIG. 46.
ANCIENT AND
67
67
IN
-
DRAPERY
MODERN DRAWING
FIG. 45.
IN
IN
83
ANCIENT AND IN
-
85
87
89
LIST
8 AND 11
11
TUNIC, SLEEVELESS
TUNICS, WITH SLEEVES
ROBES -
SKIRT
CAPE
COLLAB
11 AND 69
14 AND 80
26
...
SHAWLS OR DRAPERIES
-26
26
CLOAK
CORSELETS
COATS
38
86 AND 88
39
84
88
TROUSERS
xi
LIST
OF DATED GARMENTS
ILLUSTRATED
B.C.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
OF
As
concerned,
:
may
this
volume.
all
find
over with
woven or printed
patterns,
and
girdle, these
examples given.
The
being often
See various
p. 66.
MATERIAL
The
was
chiefly linen.
The
used.
and
DATES
The earliest types of costume were the tunics midway come the robes and skirts, and the draped or shawl
;
contemporaneously.
in this
been
all
continued to be worn
description,
and have
Museum.
IN
THEIR DRESS
can easily be gathered from the illustrations
that the types of costume worn by both sexes were
It
similar.
The high
male costume,
if
girded,
was generally
Egyptian Works
Prisse
d'Avennes,
" L'Art
oj
Hottenroth,
Racinet,
Egyptiens";
visit
" Le Costume"
"Le Costume
Histori-
que";
Sir J.
who cannot
Reference.
G. Wilkinson, "Ancient
Egyptians ";
Reproductions.
for those
PLATE
I.
I.,
A
is
It
It
might be considered
PLATE
M.O.H.
F.SH. pinx.
del.
A GODDESS
PLATE
Plate
..,
whicn aaics
II.
also
,.c.
ury
The
striped
by the lin^
the drawn-v
>
Fig.
mother type
.u*t.
The
1).
;jested
01
:amely,
of
01'
-
B.C.,
woman
is
eas
rex,
oio:i
can
ood by a
rapery on
an
Plate
ie
of this
original
^ *Jie figure is
of
ribbon
and
the
figure
on
scale
large
to
show
clear
details
enough
the head-dress is omitted.
The person
30*
Fig. 1
represented is
said to be Cleopatra dressed
as a goddess.
PLATE
M.G.H.
II
F.S.H. pin*.
del.
A QUEEN
and
were made of
4,
put on by
stepping into it and pulling it up.
Figs. 3 and 4 are
put on over the head the measurements given will fit
fairly thick linen.
Fig. 2
is
top to keep
it
closed.
is
only
10
is
in
wood.
Fig.
Fig.
14"
22'
22"
Fig. 2 A
Fig.
Fig.
4A
11
PLATE
It will be noticed that the
III.
is
borders
(f,
g, h,
i),
and two
which
The
is
chiefly
taken from painted representations of persons and ornaments. To arrive at the exact colouring used if the
garments
We
have,
give a more exact notion of what was worn.
in the British Museum, actual examples of dyed wools
and coloured beads used in dress decoration.
PLATE
III
.H. jec.
DETAILS OF DECORATION
13
form
slit
down
strange to
also,
T
Musicians are often
represented
wear-
hem
not
it
does
trail as it
does
so that
on
Fig. 6
14
Fig. o.
Fig.
5A
PLATE IV
M.G.H.
del.
THE GOD
F.S.H. pinx.
OSIRIS
15
PLATE V.
'
is
commence
at the
downwards to the
back, next draw upwards
left
shown
16
in Fig. 6.
at
as
PLATE V
F.S.H. pint.
ANI,
SCRIBE
17
18
Fig.
19
is
an
illustration of a
robe worn by a
woman
front half
quite full
This robe on
women
is
also
Fig. 10
PLATE
VI
PLATE VII.
The
characteristic
and beetle
(scarabaeus) (c).
Plates
I.
(a),
hawk
(b),
(which
is
is
a favourite
on garments.
very charming effect also of this
pattern was a tunic entirely composed of beads, or
beads and reeds, and worn over the garment shown on
Fig. 2, p. 11. Several beaded networks of this type may
be seen on the
22
mummies
in the British
Museum.
PLATE
F.b.H
fee.
DETAILS OF DECORATION
VII
PLATE VIII.
The
may
be
and
Cape"
without
the
shown
as
(the
straight
cape).
petticoat
Now
was
this
Egyptian costume
of the
Petticoat
sometimes
worn
or
skirt,
petticoat
in
cut
the
of
of Fig.
HA
piece
and e
in
triangles a, b,
then knot as shown in the diagram.
In the
skirt piece,
sides.
As
will
cape.
The
collar,
which was
down
fastened
cord two pieces of the upper edge about half a yard apart
are taken in the hands and twisted, one is crossed over
;
is
pulled
up and
PLATE
M.G.H.
VIII
F.S.U. pinx.
del.
A QUEEN
shown
This particular
draping is the inspiration of the decoration on Plate II.
Similar drapings without the twisting were worn both
ear,
as
It
in
is
practically similar
present day
sketch.
garment
by both men and women,
54"
Fig.
HA
Fig.
HB
88"Fig. lie
Fig, 12
Compare
its
lines a decoration
of
PLATE IX.
The noteworthy
plate
are
on
this
These are
an example
may
linen,
is
Fig. 21.
The
Many
beautiful
Museum
is
from a feather
fan.
PLATE IX
/>.//. fee.
DETAILS OP DECORATION
Fig.
1450
and
B.C.
This
cloak.
skirt,
which
is
figure,
hand
fullness
drawn
is
garment
tightly
is
is
wide
for the
caught up in each
of
of material.
all
in front.
Fig.
14,
which dates
A.D.
200,
shows a
Roman
an Egyptian
15.
is
B.C.
30
figure, the
fullness
bunched up
in
Fig. 14
costume
the
"
division
Type
of
of
the
Egyptian
Shawl or
Fig. 16
PLATE X
/'.>.//.
pitu.
A PRIESTESS
33
Figs.
seem to
16A and IT A.
round the
side of waist r
34,
der
left
arm-pit, pass
Fig. 19
Fig. 17
182 -
Fig. 19A
The width
_lt
46" will drape a tall figure, say 5' 6" in hefM&t.+'The drapery
should be narrower for a lesser heif
35
B.C.,
under
left
front
catch
up the
entire
36
82*
Fig.
ISA
of waist in front,
few pleats
into
in
centre front
the
back
shoulder,
over
the
downwards
left
across
Fig. 18
B.C.
It
This figure is
leather or quilted linen (plan, Fig. 2lA).
also wearing one of the characteristic belts with appendFig. 22,
ages (for detail see Plate IX., a and b).
which dates 1300 B.C., is wearing a robe, as previously
described on Fig. 6, but in addition has a stiff corselet
Fig.
38
20
Fig.
20A
Fig. 21
Fig. 22
:
old of Material
S,
4"
A COMPARISON
THE INDIAN "SARI"
Egyptian costume, it seems
interesting to compare the accompanying illustrations
of an ordinary present-day draping worn by women in
Before passing from
illustrated.
Now
catch up
all
it
will
it
have the
women
are narrower.
Fig. 23
Fig.
24
Fig. 25
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
OF
THERE
are
generally
practically only
found
the
in
Assyrian costume:
(1)
representations
of
ancient
DECORATION
Except
in Assyrian
when
costume
at its richest
with ornament.
in fact, the
may be
is
lavish
costume of a King
Jewellery,
patterns,
mental
45
MATERIAL
The
materials used
The
wool.
skins
and
linen
and
DATES
The
earliest
The
have been
Museum.
It
hundreds of years.
IN
THEIR DRESS
The
Two
For Assyrian and Ancient Persian Styles consult Layard's "Monuments of Nineveh"; Flandin and Coste, "Voyage en Perse"; Botta,
"Monuments de Ninive"; Victor Place, " Ninive et Assyrie"; Perrot
and Chipiez, "History of Art in Persia"; Racinet, "Le Costume
" Le Costume."
Also reproductions and
Historique "; Hottenroth
handbooks of the collections in the British Museum.
:
hand
is
by this drapery,
movement. This
48
Fig. 26
Fig. 27
118"
Fig.
26*
49
this figure is
40"
60*
Fig.
50
29A
Fig.
29s
PLATE XI
M.G.H.
F.S.H.
del.
pinjo.
MYTHOLOGICAL PERSONAGE
51
Fig.
30
represents
(ninth
but long.
Tied at
of his figure
is
20 inches square.
his waist
Note the
bottom
tassels
corner.
He
also
same on the
wears the
belt
which look
like horsehair
The wavy
hang from
his
sword
his cap-band.
Note the
52
belt
worn
similarity
in Assyria
Fig. 31
The
is
the
is
Fig. 31
55
Fig. 32
B.C.,
has a small
tightly
56
scarf,
Fig. 32
57
Fig. 33
it
B.C.,
wears a
80".
To
who
two
draw
it
hang down
58
draw
it
wrapping it
across the back and up
Fig. 33
59
PLATE XII.
Plate XII. shows a
ornaments.
a,
The
sacred tree.
b, c, d, e,
g, h,
i,
j,
m, One
f,
k,
Borders on costumes.
of the
many
rosettes
much used
in Assyrian
decorations.
These
should
be
compared
woven
60
or embroidered.
with
the
decorated
PLATE
XII
F.S. H. fee.
DETAILS OF DECORATION
61
is
The description of
Assur-nasir-pal, ninth century B.C.
dress will be better understood by referring to
his
and
36.
his
long
9O"
Fig.
is
34A
Egyptian types already illustrated, and, indeed, has points of similarity with certain
Greek and Roman draperies. To drape this shawl (see
Fig. 34A) fold over on the line e-f so that e-f, a-b,
hangs down outside; then attach the cord e-g as illustrated, and hold g at right side of waist in front, throwing
the rest of the shawl backwards over the right shoulder.
Draw the edge e-f round the back of neck, and form a
62
PLATE
M.U.U.
del.
XTTT
F.S.B. pinx.
KING ASSUR-NASIR-PAL
63
To complete the
sling over the left arm, as shown.
draping, continue to pass the edge e-f round the waist
towards the right, passing under the right elbow, then on
round the back and left side until it reaches about 6 inches
in front of left side of waist now fold the remainder of
;
is
more
is
it is being
a
with
the
thus,
roll,
adjusted.
drapery
will remain in position without the waist cord being
tied over it, but it is more secure when it has been
thus confined. Fig. 38 is still another variety of this
type of draping, and is taken from a small statue
of Assur-nasir-pal in the British Museum
there we
have two shawls, one square and one semicircular (see
To arrange this draj ery, take the
Figs. 38A and 38fi).
shawl
and
fold
outwards about 20 inches, as at
square
e-f.
Tie a waist cord on the tunic, and tuck the corner
belt,
When worn
64
Fig. 35
65
deeply into
it
tightly
in front
then draw
reached again.
Now double about 6 inches of the shawl inwards, and
tuck again into waist cord.
Take the semicircular
shawl g-h, and attach the cord to another waist cord,
till
the
left side
is
Red
Much
Yellow
Green
Much
Fig. 37
a
Ir
60"
*-
60"
Fig.
38A
Fig.
38n
67
Fig. 39
century
in the
is
B.C.
same manner
opening, which
as the
it is
much
cut very
Egyptian tunic
the neck
side of
neck
is
will
slit
large
be seen.
68
A
is
row of
fringe decorates
richly embroidered
belts.
over
Fig. 39
69
PLATE XIV.
Plate
century
XIV.
is
the
Queen of
She wears a
B.C.
which
is
fringed
Assur-bani-pal, seventh
down
all
round, would
measure
130".
It
is
woman on
opposite direction.
70
p. 59,
save that
it
goes in the
PLATE XIV
M.G.H.
JT.S.H pinx.
del.
QUEEN OF ASSUR-BANI-PAL
71
PLATE XV.
/
XV. shows
Plate
tion
attention
forms of the
may be
particularly
tassels.
a, b, c, Bracelets,
d, e,
f,
g, h,
Ear-rings.
i,
j,
horses.
k,
1,
Winged globe.
Palm tree.
m, Lappet
n,
Bronze
o,
Sword
of a King's
vessel.
handle.
tiara.
PLATE XV
DETAILS OF DECORATION
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
OF
THE
garments
illustrated
in
this
style
are of four
types
the coat.
DECORATION
Ancient Persian decoration was so exceedingly similar
does not seem necessary to
do not find, however, that ancient
it.
We
it
77
MATERIAL
and wool
Linen
were
chief
indications
extensively
that
leather
employed
the
in
more
rather
tight -fitting
garments.
It
either in Assyrian or
and painted representations it is true folds are sometimes indicated, but the chief concern of the artists of
;
human
figure
and
richly
DATES
The
illustrations
here
given
of
ancient
Persian
fifth
IN
THEIR DRESS
There
is
not
picture of the
78
sufficient information to
women's
form a
definite
and
style
Queen
of a Persian
King who
who is wearing
trousers,
will
moment's
case of
cutting,
reflection will
woven
make
it
dress fashioner,
stuffs the
rectangle.
On
the
may
list
79
It will
is
twice
the height of the figure, the material is doubled, a neckhole cut, and the garment is pulled on over the head.
The
is
is
same
6O"
40x
Fig.
80
cut,
Fig.
40
PI
M.G.ff.
ATE XVI
F.S.H. pinx.
del.
81
To
B.C.,
on Fig.
left
It will
at the corners
Fig. 42 is a
front view.
left
shoulder
this
keeps
is
weighted
in position.
it
60"
Fig.
4lA
in
down
This costume
is
The
Fig.
84
43x
Fig. 43
85
Fig. 45
is
fifth
centuries B.C.
24"
Fig.
86
45A
Fig.
45
87
Fig.
88
46n
Fig. 40