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KNITTING CALCULATIONS

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Most suitable count for knitting machines
As a thumb rule knitting experts prefer to use such knitting machine whose gauges is near to count of yarn (English count) i.e. for 20-gauge
machines most suitable yarn count is 20s. This rule is has certain limitations, like, for 28-gauge yarn of 26s to 30s is most suitable. But for
very fine counts this rule is not applicable and also machines have maximum gauge 32. Normally fine counts are not used as such rather
they are make double, like count 60s double, which means that net count is near to 30s. And this 60 double count is suitable for 30-gauge
machine.
To solve this problem some authors have suggested following formulas.
For single Knitting Machine
Suitable count = G*G/18
For Double knitting machine
Suitable count= G*G/8.4
Where G is gauge of knitting machine
Some knitting machine manufacturers suggest a range of yarn count for their machine.
There is another way to solve this problem and that is to take help from old record. Every firm is producing many types of fabrics and on
the basis of experience they develop a database for ready reference.
One can get a ready reference from the table to produce fabric of certain grammage. We are also giving expected width of fabric after wet
processing.
This table can provide just a reference. Knitters have to decide by themselves after doing a trial production, since there are many more
factors, which can affect yarn and gauge selection process.
Knitting Machine Parameters
Every knitting machine is made to fulfil certain demands of the customer.
There are number of characteristics of machine which are intimated by the machine manufacturers while delivering the machine to
customers/users.
It is helpful for the user to be well aware about these parameters. Furthermore machine specifications are given in different unit. We will
explain these parameters and will also give the conversion factors to convert parameters from one system to other.

Machine Gauge
As per Oxford Dictionary the word gauge is a noun and as well as verb. It is used to measure level of any thing or for an instrument to
measure width, length or height of any thing.
In knitting it is used to express the number of needle in a unit length of the needle bed. This needle bed may flat or circular.
In double knit circular machine it is used for cylinder and as well as dial. Generally gauge is defined as number of needles per inch.
According to German standard DIN 60917 (Iyer et al1995) alphabet E is used to denote knitting machine gauge.
E = Number of needles
1 inch (25.4 mm)
Machine Pitch
As per German DIN 62125 (Iyer et al1995) the notation gauge is to be avoided in the future. Rather they prefer to use notation pitch for
comparison purpose.
Machine Pitch means the distance between the centres of two neighbouring needles. It is denoted with small t. It is given in mm.
Knitting Machine Production calculation
Before explaining the method to calculate the nominal production capacity of the knitting machine it is imperative to be well aware of count
and denier system and one should also be familiar with the conversion factors.
Yarn is sold and purchased in the form of cones and bags. Cones and bags have certain weights.
Still in the international market yarn is sold in pounds not in kilograms. Bags are of 100 pounds, which is equal to 45.3697 kgs.
Previously there were 40 cones in a bag but now there are bags available of 25 cones. In other words cones are of 2.5 pounds and four
pounds.
Nominal Production of knitting machines
One very simple way to calculate knitting machine production by weighing the total production of one hour or one shift or one day.
The practical way calculating production of a machine is as follows. In this method following information for production calculation are
required:

Machine Guage and Dia


RPM Knitting Machine
Yarn Count

Stitch Length

From these figures we can calculate the length of yarn being used by the machine in one hour and then by converting this length into
weight with the help of count given we can calculate the quantity of yarn being consumed by machine in one hour. This would be the
optimum production of the machine. This optimum production can be converted into nominal production by multiplying it with efficiency.
In the following pages we will explain this with few examples.
In the following pages we will explain the method to calculate nominal production capacity of knitting machine. It is commonly believed that
we can run knitting machine up to 85% efficiency. However, by creating most suitable environment one can increase machine efficiency.
For this we need following figures:
Machine speed RPM
Machine guage
Machine Dia
Count/ denier of yarn being used
Stitch length
From the above-mentioned figures we can calculate the length of yarn being used in one revolution and if we know the length and count of
yarn then it is quite easy to calculate weight of yarn (see Example: 03 for more details)

Example 01
Calculate nominal production of a single jersey-knitting machine per hour from the data given:
Machine Gauge
24
Machine Dia
30 inches
Number of Feeders
90
Machine RPM
26
Yarn Count
24
Stitch length
4 mm
Efficiency
85%
Solution:
Step one
First we will calculate number of needles and number of stitches produced in one revolution. This would help us in calculating the total
length of yarn consumed in one revolution.
Number of needles = machine dia * gauge * (3.14)
= 30* 24*3.14
=2260 (exact 2260.8 but needles are always in even number
so we will take nearest even figure)
Number of stitches produced in revolution
Every needle is making one stitch on every feeder because machine is producing single jersey fabric (full knit fabric).
Number of stitches produced in one revolution = Number of needles * number of feeders
= 2260*90
= 203400
This figure shows that machine is making 203400 stitches in one revolution.
Step Two
Length of stitch is 04 mm (stitch length is always calculated in metric system)
From this figure we can calculate yarn consumption in yards in one hour
Yarn Consumption (in yards) in one hour
= number of stitches * length of (mm) * RPM *60 (minutes)
1000(to convert mm into meters)
=203400 * 4 * 26 * 60
1000
= 1269216 meters or

= 1388015 yards
Step Three
In previous step we calculated quantity of yarn consumed in yards. We can easily calculate weight of this yarn while its count is known (see
example 03).
Weight of cotton yarn = length of yarn
Count * 840
= 1388015
840 * 24
= 68.85 pounds or
= 31.23 Kilo grams
Efficiency
85% = 26.55 Kilo grams
Answer: this machine can produce 26.55 Kgs fabric in one hour at 85 % efficiency

Example 02
For Filament yarn, Calculate nominal production of a single jersey-knitting machine per hour from the data given:
Machine Gauge
28
Machine Dia
26 inches
Number of Feeders
120
Machine RPM
30
Yarn Denier
75
Stitch length
4.5 mm
Efficiency
85%
Solution:
Step one
First we will calculate number of needles and number of stitches produced in one revolution. This would help us in calculating the total
length of yarn consumed in one revolution.
Number of needles = machine dia * gauge * (3.14)
= 26* 28*3.14
=2286 (exact 2285.92 but needles are always in even

number so we will take nearest even figure)

Number of stitches produced in revolution


Every needle is making one stitch on every feeder because machine is producing single jersey fabric (full knit fabric).

Number of stitches produced in one revolution = Number of needles * number of feeders


= 2286*120
= 274320
This figure shows that machine is making 274320 stitches in one evolution.
Step Two
Length of stitch is 04.5 mm (stitch length is always calculated in metric system)
From this figure we can calculate yarn consumption in yards in one hour
Yarn Consumption (in yards) in one hour
= number of stitches * length of (mm) * RPM *60 (minutes)
1000(to convert mm into meters)
=274320 * 4.5 * 30 * 60
1000
= 2221992 meters
Step Three
In previous step we calculated quantity of yarn consumed in yards. We can easily calculate weight of this yarn while its count/denier is
known (see example 05).
Weight of filament in grams = Length in meters * denier
9000
= 2221992*75
9000
=18516 grams or
=18.516 Kgs

Answer
Efficiency

85%

= 18.516*85%
=15.74 Kgs

Answer: this machine can produce 15.74 Kgs fabric in one hour at 85 % efficiency
Note: if we are producing any textured fabric, like fleece, then we use two different yarns at different feeders and ultimately stitch length is
also different. In such case we should calculate separately consumption of different yarn at different feeders. Following example will help in
calculating production in case of use of more than one kind yarn.
Example 9

Calculate nominal production of a fleece-knitting machine per hour from the data given:
Machine Gauge
18
Machine Dia
30 inches
Number of Feeders for
60
Front yarn
Number of feeders
For loop yarn

30

Machine RPM
28
Yarn Count
26s for front
Yarn count for loop
16s
Stitch length of
4.5 mm
front yarn
Stitch length of
2.5 mm
Loop yarn
Efficiency
85%
Solution:
Step one
First we will calculate number of needles and number of stitches produced in one revolution. This would help us in calculating the total
length of yarn consumed in one revolution.
Number of needles = machine dia * gauge * (3.14)
= 30* 18*3.14
=1696 (exact 1695 but needles are always in even number
so we will take nearest even figure)
In this example we will calculate consumption of yarn in Kgs of both yarns and then we will add them to get final production per hour
Consumption of yarn for front knitting, Every needle is making one stitch on every feeder because machine is producing single jersey fabric
(front of fleece).
Number of stitches produced in one revolution = Number of needles * number of feeders
= 101760
This figure shows that machine is making 101760 stitches in one revolution.
Step Two
Length of stitch is 04.5 mm (stitch length is always calculated in metric system)
From this figure we can calculate yarn consumption in yards in one hour
Yarn Consumption (in yards) in one hour

= 1696*60

number of stitches * length of (mm) * RPM *60 (minutes)


1000(to convert mm into meters)
=101760 * 4.5 * 28 * 60
1000
= 769305 meters or
= 841312 yards

Step Three
In previous step we calculated quantity of yarn consumed in yards. We can easily calculate weight of this yarn while its count is known (see
example 03).
Weight of cotton yarn = length of yarn
Count * 840

Efficiency

85%

= 841312
840 * 30
= 38.52 pounds or
= 17.43 Kilo grams
= 14.85 Kilo grams

Answer: this machine will consume 14.85 Kgs of yarn to knit front of the fleece fabric in one hour at 85 % efficiency
Step Four
Yarn consumed for loop knitting (back of the fabric)
Every needle is making one stitch on every feeder because machine is producing single jersey fabric (front of fleece).
Number of stitches produced in one revolution = Number of needles * number of feeders
= 1696*30
= 50880
This figure shows that machine is making 50880 stitches in one revolution.
Note: that we have put 30 cones of course count for loops after every two feeders.
Step Five
Length of stitch is 2.5 mm (stitch length is always calculated in metric system)
From this figure we can calculate yarn consumption in yards in one hour
Yarn Consumption (in yards) in one hour

= number of stitches * length of (mm) * RPM *60 (minutes)


1000(to convert mm into meters)
=50880 * 2.5 * 28 * 60
1000
= 213696 meters or
= 233696 yards
Step Six
In previous step we calculated quantity of yarn consumed in yards. We can easily calculate weight of this yarn while its count is known (see
example 03).
Weight of cotton yarn = length of yarn
Count * 840

Efficiency

85%

= 233696
840 * 16
= 17.39 pounds or
= 7.89 Kilo grams
= 6.70 Kilo grams

Step Seven
Now we can add both yarn consumed
Yarn for front
14.85
Yarn for back
6.70
Total
21.55
This machine can produce 21.55 Kgs fabric in one hour at 85% efficiency
All above discussion to elaborate the way to calculate the optimum production of a knitting machine. The following formula is useful in
every situation to calculate the optimum production capacity of a knitting machine at 85% efficiency.
For cotton count
Production in one hour

Gauge * Dia * 3.14 * RPM *60 * Stitch length (mm) *1.0936 * 1 * 85


1000 *840 * yarn count * 100
Grammage Expressions

Generally grammage is expressed in Grams per Meter Square (GSM) but in certain cases it is also expressed Ounces per Yard Square
(OSY). People, particularly working in marketing and merchandising departments face problems in converting GSM into OSY. We will
explain this conversion method with examples before that it is imperative to know the standard conversion factors of different measuring
units. A complete conversion chart is given at the end of the book. One should be much familiar with these conversion factors.
Conversion of GSM (grams per square meter) into OSY (ounces per square yard)
250 GSM means that weight of one meter square fabric is 250 grams and 10 OSY means weight on one yard squares is 10 ounces. In
the following lines we will explain the method of conversion from GSM to OSY and vice versa with the help of examples.
Example 10
Convert 10 OSY (ounces per square yard) into GSM (grams per square meter).
It means weight of one yard square is 10 ounces or
Weight of one square yard is 280 grams (one ounce is equal to 28 grams) or
Weight of one 0.836 meter square (one yard square is 0.836 meter square) is 280 grams or
Weight of one meter square = 280* 1
0.836
Answer = 344.9 grams per meter square
Example 11
Convert 250 GSM (grams per square meter) into OSY (ounces per square yard)
It means weight of one meter square is 250grams or
Weight of one square meter is 8.93 ounces (28 grams are equal to one ounce) or
Weight of 1.196 yard square (one meter square is equal to 1.196 yard square) is 8.93 or
Weight of one yard square = 8.93* 1
1.196
Answer = 7.47 ounces per yard square
Relation between length, width and grammage

It was observed during interaction with the people working in garment business that they face difficulties in calculation related to
grammage, width and length of the fabric. In the following lines we will explain relationship among these factors with examples.
Example 10
Calculate weight of fabric from the given data.
Grammage
Width of fabric
Length of fabric

300 GSM
35 inches (in tubular form)
20 meters

First we will calculate area of the fabric


Area of fabric = Fabric length * fabric width
=

20 * 35*2 (since fabric is in tubular)


39.37 (one meter is equal to 39.37 inches)

= 35.6 meter square


Weight of one meter square is
= 300 (GSM)
And weight of 35.6 meter square = 300*35.6
= 10680 grams or 10.680 Kgs
Example 13
Calculate GSM from the data given
Total Weight of fabric
Length of fabric
Width of fabric in open form

= 15.5 Kgs
= 35 meters
= 65 inches

Solution:
First we will calculate area of the fabric
Fabric length = 35 meters
Fabric width
= 65 inches or 1.65 meters
Fabric area
= Length * width
=35 * 1.65
=57.75 meters square

Weight of 57.75 Meter square is 15.5 kgs or 15500 grams


So weight of one square meter
= 15500/57075
= 268.39 grams per meter square of GSM of
the fabric
Calculation of different fibre percentage in knitted fabric
Normally fabrics are knitted with one kind of yarn but in some cases more than one type of yarn of different counts and combination (mixing
of two different fibres) are used. One very common example is knitting of fleece fabric, which is knitted by using fine and course yarns, and
one yarn is made of polyester and cotton. Another example is knitting of fabric by using spandex filament and cotton or pure polyester. In
such condition there is a requirement to mention exact percentage of different fibres in the fabric. Supplier has to mention this ratio on
label. In the following lines we discuss the methods to calculate such percentage with the help of examples.
Example
Find exact composition of different fibres in fleece fabric from the following data:
Yarn count front
30s 100 cotton
Yarn count for loop
20s 50:50 P/C
Consumption ratio
Front: loop 2:1 (by weight)
Suppose for front we need 2Kg yarn and for loop we will be requiring 1 Kg yarn
Front yarn

2 KGS

Loop yarn

1 Kg

100 % cotton
50:50 P/C

Cotton 2000 grams


Cotton 500 grams and
Polyester
500 grams

Exact Ratio
Cotton total
Polyester

2.5 Kgs
0.5 Kgs

Ratio:
Cotton:
Polyester :

83.33%
16.66

Please utilize this fabric conversion chart at your own risk... The Apparel Search Company is NOT run by mathematicians. We have
tried our best to provide accurate information, but we make no guarantee... If you think something below is not correct, PLEASE let us
know your thoughts.
Meter convert to Yard: 1 MT = 1.0936 YDS
Yard convert to Meter: 1 YD = 0.9144 MTS

Inch convert to Centimeter: 1 Inch = 2.54 cm


Yard convert to Inches("): 1 YD = 36"
Square Yard convert to Square Meter = 1: 0.836
Square Meter convert to Square Yard = 1: 1.196
GSM (Grams per Square Meter) convert to GM/MT (Grams per Meter):
For 44": ___ GSM x 1.1176 = ___ GM/M
For 58": ___ GSM x 1.4732 = ___ GM/M
For 60": ___ GSM x 1.524 = ___ GM/M
GSM (Grams per Square-meter) convert to GM/YD (Grams per Yard):
For 44": ___ GSM x 1.0219 = ___GM/YD
For 58": ___ GSM x 1.347 = ___GM/YD
For 60": ___ GSM x 1.3935 = ___GM/YD

Re: how to calculate fabric GSM


GSM means Grams per Square meter (i.e.) 1 meter X 1 meter = 100cmx100cm= 10000 Sq.cm
we have 10cmx10cm cutting weighing 1.48 Grams (i.e.) 100 Sq.cm = 1.48 Grams
There fore for 10000 Sq.cm,
100 Sq.cm = 1.48 Grams
1 Sq.cm = 1.48/100= 0.0148 Grams
for 10000 Sq.cm= 0.0148*10000 = 148 Grams
So, GSM is 148.

Fabric Consumption for Knitted T-shirt:


These are some basic function to make consumption of a knitted t-shirt, such as1. Fabric type and weight (Single jersey 145 GSM)
2. Basic measurement (1/2 Chest, Back length and sleeve length)
3. Sewing allowance
4. Wastage (Cutting and Sewing- 10%, 15% etc.)
Suppose,
Length = 70 cm
Chest = 60 cm/dia
Sleeve length = 25 cm
Arm hole width = 40 cm
GSM = 145

Formula =

= [( Back length + Sleeve length) Chest 2GSM12] / 10000000


= [{(70 + 5) + (25 + 5)} 60 214512] / 10000000
= 2.28 kg + 7 %
= 2.28 kg + 0.159
= 2.439 kg/doz [Neck and sleeve are made rib so add 0.10]
- See more at: http://textilecalculation.blogspot.in/2014/11/knit-fabric-consumption-formula.html#sthash.NOEaoyZw.dpuf

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