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Bulgarian Folk Costumes - Symbols and Traditions
Bulgarian Folk Costumes - Symbols and Traditions
Bulgarian Folk Costumes - Symbols and Traditions
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Bulgarian
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folk
Costumes
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REVIEW
Symbols and
Tradition
Bulgarian Folk
Costumes
Symbols and
JSflMty
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MUSEUM
OF BULGARIAN BOOKS
NATIONAL
AND POLYGRAPH Y
Tradition
BULGARIAN
LMl'lAJJVlAl l<REVI EW
We
ing
means
its
of the 14th c.
In
of
is
Europe.
in
between
petition
aristocracy
and
costumes follow
of
different rules
by this fashion.
Much
c, this
which has
later
society
first
function of dresses.
at the
subject to external
is
explanation also
its
bourgeoisie.
city
in
is
the symbolic
In
costume -
girdle,
shirt,
apron,
belt,
ini-
keeping
tiating,
com-
their
ritual
in
or cus-
the female
used
or is
magic
for
effects.
"dangerous zones
Traditional
body" to
of the
to the
evil
being.
human
means m
The fabrics
^m
means
over
control
of
^B
unpredictable results.
From
moment
the
of his self-awareness,
man tries to
some closed
set limits
secure
space.
himself
in
achieved by layers
in
shirt
external
/ external - woolen
- leather dress
form of the
and to
This
(or
- hemp
overdress /
final
used
or
(shirt,
under-
come
out of
made
is
his
i.e.
oppose them
in
a categorical way.
In
the
cultural
same
time
flax, related to
the heavenly.
traditional
costume follows
been used
for
fiber of
so
many
its
part
till
has
the
in
the
way
of dressing set
with duplication
rials,
in
Made
in.
of different
and
obligatory
unchangeable
mate-
order
the
in
strict,
horizontal
It
of
it
a basic
is
right
St.
until
pendent
6)
on one
- woolen over dress -
shirt
them has a
special
fertility.
overcoat.
leather
Each one
plete
of
woman.
In
male dresses
his
com-
munity.
ABOUT THE LAYERS OF CLOTHING OR THE HORIZONTAL STRUCTURE OF THE TRADITIONAL COSTUME
THE SHIRT - FIRST AMONG DRESSES
Extending
of
is
object of
the
Southeastern
importance
Europe,
among
the
numerous studies
related
which
its
discloses
to
major
lies
in
the fact
that
it
is in direct
is
is
concept of a
human body
cover the
dress
in
general,
as such or the
completely
equated
human
In
shirt
sky".
folk
the
naked-
natural
19th
Created to
skin.
impermissible
with
it
becomes
it
is
c.
can
description
This
found
be
Christmas
in
girls
(most
shirts
their
of
woman
The Bulgarian
wedding
their future
all
expresses
in
creation
its
The
that.
shirts).
ornamental
rich
model
of the
the eternal
anthropomorphic
alent
scheme
figure)
the
in
the colors
in
It
the male and the female principle, the sky and the
earth
in
symbolizes "the
itself,
tures.
Based on
in
body and
of the
this,
the
male
the
of
down
or
prin-
A combination expressing
fertility
and
protection.
its
as
(heaven)
principle
to the red
The fabric
of
the
white
the
opposed
live life".
to
(the tradi-
It
is
made
for
its
inter-
primarily of
centuries.
It
is
nected with the sky, with the upper world. Their fibers
are
interpreted
as
a secure
them
impossibility to count
shirt
in
heaven. The
bridge to
is
treated as a family
sent
in
everyday
life,
in
which
relic,
holidays,
keeps and
carries,
members
the dress
of kin.
in rituals
It
and
is
is
pre-
used
weddings
to funerals
and
sacredness
sonally
{in
is
is
it
a wedding
is
in
the con-
women, to
made per-
gift,
a sign of
ure of the
human body
Bulgarian
beliefs
that
lasted
until
the
is
practi-
fig-
In
nent
it
in
in
home
or
man
represents
it
himself.
It
is
promi-
right/left
cosmos. There
kinship.
Among
cally
shirt
of the
markers
is
no
of the micro-
hint of
of the
unification
of the
demonic world.
In
cutting the
shirt
have
dress
forms
the
square (rhomb) or a
woven on
ric
triangle.
loom
the
mainly used.
is
the
is
It
in
burchanka). The
final result,
means
achieved by
which are
folds,
the fab-
all
is
same
way
In this
the
of
trapezium,
rectangle,
of
parts
All
and shoulder
different tucks
of
inherited
of antiq-
way
in this
all
people
important part of
it,
same and
shirt is the
unites
living in
in
we
If
we
(shirts),
shall
to that
used
19th
the
in
c.
the
In
the sleeves, the lower band of the skirts and along the
among
her
tify
The
first
the rest
woman
in
in
her culture.
the
shirt,
name
its
basic form of
ritually
new
baptism, a
- from the
its life
shirt
first
wedding.
the
woman makes
young
process
the
In
Bulgarian tradition
In
of
is
and the
no
deviations
are
is
community. There
is
put on
of
piece
ornaments
(zashiv).
model which
cloth
It
with various
embroidered
woman in
young woman works
knowledgeable
every
kept and
is strictly
It
the
is
village.
skillfully
Following
directed by
it,
mem-
women. There
ornaments, the mod-
no competition
in
making the
els
and the
the
skills
are shared by
is
important
is
the
the
obviously
made
by them.
competition
conditions
is
pro-
although on
girls are
dresses
that the
girls
all
skill will
which
is
is
com-
embroidering
it
in
tance
Marriage
is
the sublime
community and
its
is
moment
the
in
marked by the
shirt
of the
life
made
of the
It
mination reached.
richness
preservation
is
until
attributed
is
and kin
kith
woman
means
recognize
will
woman
its
The
this
and
it
by means of
world,
al
shirt is
of behavior.
When
a male child
new
is
shirt
and
sig-
an image of the
model
The
get
dress - from
production to wearing
it.
It
Bulgarian
nifying
also a part.
its
will
of this shirt
her.
preparations for
to
her
full
embroidery orna-
local
importance
Great
cul-
life
Its
symbols of the
of
mentation.
is
it
is
tradition-
- "Happy
new
shirt".
The
greet-
and the
groom
is
The
brideshirt
is
from
his
responsibilities
to
inherited
tume
that
bought by the
is
will
and
male cos-
craftsmen as a com-
local
modity.
tinction
1
6th
is
c.
status.
connected
in
and
the
in
its
dance".
no coincidence that
is
It
shirt
preserved
is
personable appearance.
the richer
late
until
sorts of abun-
all
In this
shirts
not an
is
men,
prestige,
shirt
and the
skill-
woman
it
possession
determined by
marriage to a more
who made
is
man.
the
of
Similar
to
and
overcoats
The ornaments
of the
men
among
is
well preserved.
ily.
ty
it
sion
It
was made
by the
woman
In
costume
has
its
of this system.
communi-
woman
For the
the fam-
in
the
in
that
it
is
a model of
possession.
It
forms her
personal
has no
same
(in
status.
is
it
all
The
will
after
other
All
wear
in
her
life)
become
which
(practically
it
the
woman
in
right to inheritance),
(including
identity
it
considerable
production)
will
members
man
young, the
and membership
When
process
to
of the
sign
the
of
reproduction
life
man
the
in
their
some
regions
it
which
in
conceptions about
them
in
heaven.
In
is
from christening,
wedding
woman
and the
their shirts
live.
woman
embroidery.
is
wear
red
strongest
Disappears the
he
is
are deprived
in
in
shirt itself.
These are
communicative importance
is
all
as the
clear signs
transmitted to
whose
life
after
For the
man
ated by the
women who
man's family -
belong or
his mother,
who
skills,
will
belong to the
his fiancee
and
wife, the
trousseau of
shirts in the
house and
return
shirt is
to
will
the
his
daughters
will
leave his
moment
of his
birth,
for the
If
man
Female
upper
clothes.
clothes of Bulgarian
women
is
The
upper
the tunic-like
sukman -
with or
we
the
of
traditional
theories
about
their
origin
of
and
Boyar
the
to
similar
There
tunic.
also
is
in
sukman
of clothing,
preserved to a very
20th
This
c.
is
late
due to
partly
is
local peculiarities,
being classified as a
it
layer
Some
sewn.
ers
of
them
that
combination of an apron
in
skirt.
This idea
from
Balkan
the
in
costumes.
traditional
in
of fer-
is
The
type
last
of the
is
Most
nor
cut,
function of a back
tility.
it
are
of the
dresses
female
Bulgarian
in
characteristic
is
It
in
the
form
of an
very ancient.
shirt.
their
The black
is
costumes consisting
the
of
change
in
direction,
fabric,
have a
green.
It
is
red,
there
aladza,
striped
the
we
the
same
few
triad
its
common
fabrics
is
allowed. Almost
is
made
overcoats are
woolen
natural"
external world,
positions
in
hemp, akin
in
of wool.
With
it.
to
mark
the
qualities,
towards the
it
opposed
ritually
the
of
to
and
linen
to the
making the
is
It
its
fabric is directed
belongs to
it
of the
all
internal/external.
division
"more
strictly
materials
the
purpose
wool belongs to
earth,
to a certain extent
is
it
power and
dreams
con-
nected with
as the soul of a
- white.
ornamentation;
is
choice
the
of
applications;
made
of red, yellow,
sewn
the white
in
rows or
stitches;
with
woolen braid
(tin-
(gai-
with
hemstitch lace;
pompons,
etc.
addition
The
of
result of
making the
in
folk
costumes (most
of the
ways are
dead person.
rituals
since
in
it
is
interpreted
It
it
is
is
of
used
wedding
particularly important in
that everything
positive brought
it
ritual
bread on
next
year
explained
settlement.
In
rates
evil
the
with
female clothes.
made
St.
it.
It
by wool
is
believed
is
It
transmit-
is
common
practice
common
practice
in
preparing the
birth
the
of
rituals.
is
of
female
fertility-giving
lambs,
power
which
of
is
woolen
No matter what
the region (with
costume characterizes
kind of folk
steps
first
wrapped
after their
in
chil-
cloth,
resembling an apron -
Ma. The
dress
ric
indisputable.
is
It
In
it
between
chil-
dren include
than those
for adults
is
fashion
While
follow.
that
the
after
town
in
the
shirt,
as
the
first
changes
a
sign
received immediately
is
worn only
is
after
time
when
the
to
right
"female"
dress
young
young
woman
Readiness
to
girl
and that
dress.
judged by the
skill
she
woman
will
wear
in
her
life
when she
entirely
made
is
to
girls.
well-being of the
girl
is
occupation.
this
and her
self-
women
wearing
to faint.
of
woman
life,
of
of
mark
with the
sukman and
are
is
skirt (called
od. This
skirts
skirts
wards
of the
law.
is
number
of the
men cannot be
eyes of
of attracting the
is
challenge
of
of
still
wings) back-
decorated also
in
is
costume
in
composition,
same
same
a complex decoration of
which
is
exceptional.
com-
various
bining
Balkan
ancient
the
leads
layers
us to
heritage
ot
women add
Very often
able decorative
called
detach-
back
at the
strips
tails.
in
sukman. The
sleeveless
the
local
is
women
were
them
wearing
common
a very
in
that the
with
feathers
its
is
decorative element
seen
ornaments
the
in
the
of
fabric,
the
in
like
of the jewelry
and
hair decorations.
traditional
Bulgarian
world
protection
is
to
them
the
of
from
evil
to the fami-
of the
in
line
of inheritance.
In
a pop-
life,
ular
theme
in
old
age
represented as equal to
winter,
as
is
headlong to
falling
is
depicted
or her
his
earthly
paradise.
in
women
women. It is
old woman,
for old
ing the
of
all
of the
summer
young mar-
are
worn
in
young
the village by
mark-
women
most often
But there
ing. In
is
most
in
in
widow
inside out
is
that
it
ing
with
is
connected also
woman
is
in
both cases
deleted which
is
can explain
same
(forceful
that
women
second
the qualities of
of the
of
women
age. The
female cos-
its
is
of female reproductive
abilities
in
rights
specific ornamentation
one
and the
tume and
its
rules
strict
black.
preserves the
among
costumes
of the
symbol
in rituals
the
most
of Bulgarian
of the
dress
role
a decoration -
more than
is
deciphered
indicator.
young
They
women
or not)
with
women. Elementary
it
to
in
stitch
Bulgarian
the traditional
construction,
in
than relating
bolic
plete coverage.
women,
border.
demonstrated by com-
rim, often by a
aprons
is
due
to
they
are
con-
diversity of
are
The
a
wedding dress.
first
womb"
determines
formed by means of
which
part
it
makes
extreme,
it
influence. That
its
situations in
critical
it.
dressed
the
of
front
woman
it
has
definitely
the
of
connected with
acts
ritual
is
why
It
is
is
it
included
believed that
in
life
away
female
additional
the
forces and
evil
by touching,
strength
striking, hitting at
Or the obligatory
women
woman
unfasten and
to
ritual
and even
in birth
who
learned
all
about the
direct contact.
who
child
grandfathers,
is
which means
its
always taken
in
gradual introduction
as well.
burial rituals
for births,
other.
The
women
them,
to
sequins,
tassels,
braids,
names
deriving
strictly
followed
lation
speaks
they have
in
signs
may
lages
in
There
etc.
each
in
in
the
map
of the
rhomb,
equal
in
all
a figure
of the
vil-
symbols
apron
in
of the cos-
discovered
place. Their
first
in
in
In
ritual
dress. By putting
an announcement
is
is
necessarily included
is
it
it
Laxarov day
on and the
made
right to
in
the
wear
it
have reached
that girls
sexual maturity and are ready to receive the necessary proposals. That
girls
is
why
numerous
bells.
young
tinkling
As a detach-
in
the elements
communication, even
off
is
the
most ancient
signaled by the
manner
in
which the
common
Romania,
in
female
It
it
is
fig-
ferent ornamentation
tion
means
woman
in
love
neces-
dresses of
other.
achieved by
man
of the apron.
stylized tree,
Serbia,
regions where
folk
the presence
a motif very
Macedonia,
very close.
women
of this
young
is
mundi - a
is
is
of the
off.
The connection
participation of
shirt.
more expressive
document
for
many
no coincidence that
of the
are
village.
beads,
of identification
lace,
pendants,
As one
It
They have
pompons,
velvet
of origin.
is
importance
In
last
(mother, wife).
the
its
it
apron of the
among
believed
woman's apron
as a new mem-
is
come from
to
The
women
dif-
distincis
also
it
is difficult
traditional
to
tell
where
is
cul-
which
indicate
material
primarily
were
wellstrictly
use was
strictly
Signs of prestige,
clothing
made
of
like
expensive
materials;
A"
sels
and are
by unmarried
to the left
ried
made
pregnant women. The
broader aprons
and
and
girls
of the
two
of
to the right
women
old
fabrics, usually
coincidence
a key -
woman
as
on
standing
trying to
suppressed opportu-
includes
used by
wearing
them
annihilates
age-old
interpreted as
prohibitions
and
border
the
of the
richly
is
Most
by mar-
not accidental
is
nity for
Bulgarians.
women
are
interpreted as desig-
is
woman
to give
closes the
second protective
around us and
that
circle
the world
in
black.
became popular
c.
male
black
in
costumes
folk
Exceptions
are
This
is
the
western
in
in
8th
the
a major claim
territory.
and
until
ethnographic
Bulgarian
in
c.
north-
differ
not
ration
on
in
20th c,
color
in
until
the
c.
of the
is
a process con-
flourishing crafts.
tailor
made
brings unificasituation
when
tion to
ply
In
in
of the
c.
we can
most
discover
of the variants
legs
- from the
Among
costumes
priority
is
given
(sheep)
skin
activities of the
cold,
sometimes
dress
of
put on
is
it
new type
when
rain,
become
to the ankles,
physical
rich
financial
of
This
labor.
status.
ly
on trousers
right to put
male dress,
panied by special
and
in
some
regions
same dress
important
apron
body or a
indi-
marks
their
the
in
life
boys
of
for
it
which
of the family,
clearly
is
It
of
It
work
inclusion in the
girl.
of the
type that
the small
differ in clothing
shirt the
accom-
is
it
moment
is
is
cated
male dress.
of traditional
The
in life
the
In
the
In
same way
are created
skills
animal
in
learning
to
the
traditional
Bulgarian
crafts.
fledged
crafts
loose
the
colored
black
many
We know
pants,
which
poturi,
replaced, after
benevrek.
of drawings
Ottoman
c.
middle
dress
colored
and beginning
Presumably
legs
movement,
in
as an armor
work
in
Bulgarian
protecting
the
field,
in
for
military action.
nogavitzi,
as
in
It
is
the
inal
until
of the 18th c.
in
such
2th 1 3th
c.
the
horse
a tight
body riding,
as
the
even
West
In
in
Western Europe
Bulgarian traditional
cos-
It
member
and
of the
community.
full-
he learns
Until
skills,
dif-
in
all
which he
will
one
is
right to
use the
The costume
new
rights
of the
married - to
remarkable
make
decorations
the
for
first
black
of
In
gaitan
the area of
ornamented
in
thick-
in
a continuation of
well
c,
16th
the
trousers
the
of
is
it
the
in
the
of
light
in
of travelers
male dress.
first
fers
to
leg (pachi)
often
life
cycle
not accidental.
is
of the
potency and an
archal
foot.
Bulgarian
emblem
society the
it
of the
rooster
is
In
symbol
male
status.
symbolizes the
of
male
In
patri-
sexually
mature man.
c. in their orig-
ally
of the traditional
white
dresses, open
in
reaching the
the other -
them separately or
wearing
elbow),
the
in
reverse
Some
them
in the village
community.
in
in
the
complete set
i.e. all
at hot holidays
sess.
The
from that
in
It
is
made
decorated clothes
there
is
of the
differ
changes
new and
greater part
of
the
shirt
open,
to
represent
some
is
man who
cut.
regular-
ly
full
set of local
being overdressed
in
some
sensitivity to cold
due
is
woman.
an expression
to old
age but a
life
way
We
of dressing
among men
of the
oldest
first
man and
in
traditional
order position
family.
Common
for
the
regions
is
the
competition
in
ornamentation but
it
is
worn by Bulgarian
crafts-
this
of the
"city
black"
in
costumes which
male
lasted
more backwards
in
ence
of the
the sleeve.
Quick changes
influ-
town.
dental.
woman
herself but
the 19th
c.
first
upper
colorful
elbows.
are
A product
long
reaching
sleeves
of craftsmen,
changing
the
symbol
of
tiations.
In
by the
side,
Bulgarian tra-
interpreted
as a
It
is
In
the
most
of the
cases
of the marriage
it
is
worn
nego-
their form,
richly decorated.
skin. There
silver fibers
is
game
with
in
The deco-
ditional
status.
made by
not
is
it
As a
wedding present,
obligatory
in
in
and multicolored
silk
gaitan,
embroidery, tassels
costume
of
with
its
from
complicated
in
It
is
worn per-
is
con-
woman
is
subjected
in
her
From
and
of
one or two
that
is
moment on
again warn
it
until
is
is
hung
becomes
the birth
children.
tume
is
might
and
have
heavy
whole
village
community,
know of
damages
working
we
although
serious
health
women
young
of
the field
in
very
in
The
temperatures.
high
exceptional
energy of
fertile
woman,
the young
destined
new
with the
covered
carefully
is
life,
dress.
protects
It
members
other
munity.
the
at
is
It
comsame
of the
ation, carrying
child;
and
rain
fertile
The
harvest.
birth of a
rich
practice
of
among
role that
social)
sheep skin
prosperity,
moments
it
desired
some
specific
At
(non-human),
"natural"
which very
in
her
in
considered that
power.
For that
which she
it
is
from
purpose
woman from
is
it
is
of
sible
the bride
it
is
is
she draws
ritual
The
she
practice
present at
transitional states
ry for the
also
moments and
is
communication with
It
wedding
the
means
connected.
the myste-
at burial
it
is
all
pos-
obligato-
ceremonies. For
first
purpose
own and
until St.
of universal
St.
fertility.
6), until
For that
the day of
it
is
impossible
the
gold
It
whose
ing well-being
final
aim
longevity
is
and many
children.
The lack
"animal"
"alien",
strongly
fleece.
as
the
of
is
archaic,
enough
semantics
and
it
is
(ritual
most
the
popular
decoration,
undressing,
ritual
first
of
an upper dress
the costume
in
One
of the
basic complexes
in
also
is
woman.
the sun
girl,
In
traditional
rit-
myths the
summer
connected with
is
mer,
it
is
on earth,
when
steals the
who
the sun
girl
is
of the
In
sum-
marriage begins.
its
strong,
summer
In
It
its
as a symbol-
or the lack
find
of
upper dress
explanation
in
the
of the
unmarried
representation
the
home,
unmarried
it
to
stress
on
the
can
girl's
can be deci-
show
to demonstrate the
girl",
of
girl
preserva-
"loneliness of
occupation
with
It
first
manently
in
that
the
fact that
was bought
it
and suc-
The 1930s-1940s
still
long sleeves.
are
qualities
is
It
made
two main
of special
known from
its
is
antiquity
material
whose
which
is
The
sess
it
men
in
right to
ual dress,
in
It
is
not), to
pos-
from unmarried
interpreted as a
rit-
house work
intense
larly
winter. This
in
contributes to the
also
woman
related can
is
way than as a
man's
sented
child
be interpreted
him and
why
to marriage.
girl
to
upper
last
dress on
is
equiva-
passes
layer
in
her
in this
dress
is
forced
bridegroom. With
her
in
pre-
husband and
sense the
is
woman
of the
as a sign of belonging
it
unwanted
marriage the
the
dress
put
accept an
with
this
after
no other
in
and possession
right
family. That is
by
to
entirely
to
her
"under
his family
and
costume she
belonging.
In
this
costume can be
It
is
such as an
in
the
similarity
of
and
material
the
expressiveness
achieved
through them.
ritual
young
ditional
We must
house the
large
head of the
family.
have
leather
Conceiving
dress
diligent
in
mind
that in a tra-
members
on special occasions -
ily
or while traveling.
of lending
wedding
for the
it
In
rit-
ual
The long
in
work
at least
sense borrowing
this
at
fam-
of the
fur coats
when
they
performing
are
Christmas
borrow
they
rituals
them but even then they don't put them on and only
throw them on their shoulders. These strict rules are
strictly
kept
among
the
the
in
few preserved
families
late
until
are
male
in
in
in
the 18th c.
until
rules
clothing.
community and
traditional
(rarely they
in
cases they
all
differ in their
The
right to
tume
cos-
is
the
use
its
hierarchy
traditional
of
man, the
married
man. By
values.
man
elderly
the
of
It
in
the
distinguishes
the
is
It
man
is
season,
he can wear
one included.
very wealthy
or the
among
male
all
most valuable
owner
of
marks the
It
old
man who
the
in
often the
community
in
itself
till
late,
tume. This
is
sent the
man
work,
the open,
in
activity.
which
Among
is
i.e.
its
preservation
in
a relatively
it
is
marker
of the
head of the
unchanged form
very practical,
it
has
rit-
family.
in
we have
In
addition to professional
IN
man
In
in
the
social
The
hierarchy.
home made),
its
high
status
is
Bulgarian
made up
fur.
is
No matter
that
not subject to
and remains
traditional,
the
living
only one
in
the
life
of its
In
is
good and
lower,
of the
natur-
person
family.
al
hell.
and
is
traditional
tendencies
fashionable
social
then that
in
is
one
of the
It
is
ver-
last,
human beings
world,
that
is
most adapted
and
height
- a
same
levels
girdle
and
to
(earthly)
which
occupied by people
it
round
We
Universe.
eties
and
cultural practice)
is
round
are
compara-
slaying
triple
in
her realization as a
universally protecting
objects
with
indisputable
breast piece,
belt,
man
in
since
antiquity,
soldier's
value
ritual
parts of the
men-
tioned
the
woman's
is
ritual
hero,
this
to
slaying
the
if
the
of
central
personage
Bulgarian
her
"girl-hero" with
separate
it
kaltzi -
the leg
indisputable.
made
legs of trousers
costumes
sories to the
their designation
cloth
of
and
Indo-European soci-
made
bracelets
their waist,
scheme they
the "Dumezil"
In
waist,
to
in
the
clear characteristics
are
in
their knees.
the
tells that
(girdle
in
middle
the
comes on
race
girdle
upper floor
in
earth
human
we come
to
girl-
role
of
the
in
wedding,
her
of
key concepts
the world,
is
in
in
general. This
in
is
"triple slaying",
one
also reproduced
The
in
woman's body -
SM
.*fe
marked also
in
epic texts.
(.-
in
of the general
costume
al
fiancee
is
which
include
the
metal
head decorations,
coins, bracelets,
strings
belt,
called
of
woman's
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in
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into
from
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status
virgin
into
Z^w
served,
told
performed
the
asserted
also
and
through the
traditional clothing.
underestimates
dom
of
In
is
human upper
means
lar
everywhere
the traditional
in
is
in
key
such decorations
in
be
woman
in
view of
ed meanings
in
practical role
its
In
metaphor
the girdle as a
tory
is
for
implanted
into the
chastity
life in
off.
female girdle
obliga-
is
which
(belt),
is
taken
moral
purity. Its
outside appearance
also preserved.
is
Western Europe
after the
the Near
(belt)
in
called the
accepted
costumes
there
of clothes,
popu-
is
to
an accesso-
initial
movements and
the body.
part
its
belt as
pre-historic times as a
in
other.
Prominent
from against
around.
and
life
all
Some
its
visible
else,
it
costume, the
of the traditional
many
functions -
man
and
util-
complement each
world
itself.
in
ready to be married.
loaded with
is
find
itarian,
can
An inseparable part
belt (the girdle) is
We
it
it
can
moment
in
its
making
is
this
is
tassels
done by
putting
and pendants
many
the
at
and
letter)
presence
by the mysterious
in
the beginning of
human beings
which
after
that
or of stars,
are
hidden
is
interpreted
kind
of
line
of
life,
as
(gir-
some
which
is
c.
is
not introduced
The female
centuries
of
girdles
use
in
and
and
include
oldest
the
itive
creation
the
of
classical
and
multicolored
known
girdles,
short
belts
widely
and
woman
self,
her-
bright-
in their textile
is
best
itself is
called gir-
dle.
All
(girdles)
additional tas-
fall
loose
at
many
that, at putting
it
on,
it
of his
is
This
girdle.
longer the
means
of
it
the
woman
in
are expressed
dress to
will
live.
story.
face as an apotropy.
of the
woolen material
concrete plight of a
The
woman.
and keys
1*
child
among
is
most
stable
""
.<?:
the
woman
and
is
same time
one
is
common
the
of
Narrow and
is
it
to
is
tradi-
preserved
put on to
worn
and
fertility.
use of the
of the
rings
seduce,
to
attract
based
tices
i;**:
and pendants,
prac-
ditional
evil. In
clearly today.
tra-
it
ability to "reflect"
tional
the
demons
are made
The memory
the
of the
to
birth
axes,
many examples
in
completed
c.
metaphor or more
description
is
strength
to
precisely
of
In this
By
in
ability to
end
her
it
person
longer a
the
retell
life
this is the
is
girdle
time
life
on
the
beliet
in
positive
of
result
con-
the
tact
the
of
with
material
woman's
body.
Many
the
use
variants
are
starting
with
the
special thread up to
the
wide
girdle
icons painted on
with
it.
One
specifically protective
called
is
the so-
wrapped
keeps
means
it
in
cloth.
The pregnant
till
birth
and keeps
it
woman
for next
old beliefs.
The snake
inherited
is
from
conceived of
that
birth,
life".
is
earth,
a universal clas-
elements of "death,
of
their
on
their
human
attention, to
covers/hides the
It
woman's
and
visually repre-
partici-
to
as
it
wear
it
birth)
in
on the
woman and
her children.
protects the
belt
In
woman
old
agains death.
is
compared,
female clothing.
tic
costume
From
seman-
in its
interpreted as
is
It
it
way
spiral-like
is
it
in
related to the
In
alife
on
earth,
power
it
and
closed,
nized,
explains
which
presence
its
it
many
in
circular
ritual
space.
situations
forces.
evil
Its
in
strong effect
into
its
means
(and
This
is
it
protected
is
funerals,
those
alive girdle
the
loss
of
bolism of internalization
of inheritance.
line
are on the
same
it
And
girdle.
the
opposite act -
bol of
as a sym-
ritual
tion,
"A
man
the girdle
rity
of rup-
and
is
the rituals on
nuances,
is
men. There
sels
right,
participation
hangung on the
all
in
its
young unmarried
female dresses,
sides,
in
on the
left
lots of tas-
and on the
of
of
woolen pendants.
In
the process of
girls
still
community
amorous com-
them round
that he
as a sign
their waists
has chosen a
girl.
worn as an
Hammered
Middle ages.
Highly
into
or
hanging from the leather belts are metal studs, solders' buttons, yellow pins, metal pieces
a small dagger, knives,
hanging
matu-
tie
them (sometimes
take
means readiness
them) and
to the
men
The young
down
Both with
rifles,
in
the form a
to the thighs.
women and
with
men
coming
oi old
age.
The
girdle
becomes dark
male symbols
in
demonthe most
is
changed
sta-
woolen,
domestically
woven
till
red
late,
male
till
girdle
the final
vil-
carefully
skirts of the
the ankle
of thick
predominantly white
In
(kaltzuni) or
wedding
some cases -
red), decorat-
community
its
material,
manner
coloring,
the living
in
is
directed primarily to
is
of
its
in
sex-
feet,
of the
dangerous position
"down",
in
is
wedding cere-
woman
Putting
woman's
status
practice
interpret-
is
on
the
part of the
is
Balkans,
shoes as
on her
children,
who
(as the
a present.
woman
herself) will
is
both
members
right
position
life
on shoes
general
house
into the
ed as an act on the
its
of the
the position
marked, cov-
carefully
the Bulgarian
In
human body -
most extremely
are
and protected.
ered,
the
is
It
the
also
newly
girl
it
"Happy slippers."
The wearing
of specific
coverings on the
can be
at specific
The foot
women's
of the
woman
is
additionally
medi-
their production
lage
in
meaning
red color,
in
until St.
shoes resembling a
women's
to
aeval
up
of
George
and by
their
(in
(kaltzi)
- up to the knee
(terlitzi).
dress by the
shoe
partite
creation
most
of
of
the
ancient
symbols
the
in
tri-
led to the
male
of
centration
attention,
of
Most
served
wool
legs
primitive
late
until
decorations,
signs
in
the
(flax),
up
in
of
to the
knees
and attached
from
leather.
them
men
there
is
in circles.
Women
swen
leathers,
state
the
which
were famous on
coming
end
at the
the
of
Italian
Second Bulgarian
new
katuri,
the
be used by
chehli. This
unmarried
women
all
is
konduri.
women
The
are the
included.
Most popular
in
in
to
foot
ankle,
for
by specific tying
which
is
and
attachement to the
women
tzun/uli.
In
knee"
is
for the
much more
restricted.
form a
plains.
"up to the
used to designate the male transition (by being swallowed by a chthonic creature - a snake, a dragon)
and to mark actions and
uality.
The
towards the
zone
also
qualities
directs
towards
the
earth,
group of
the kaltzi
-without souls,
like legs
wear
additional decorations
belts.
young
man
shoes,
leather
wear shoes,
to
right
rarely
women,
like
is
determine the
life
everyday use
their
in
ditional
in
the
life
of the married
In
of a
man
Despite the
lifetime".
the
in
achieved by
means
The
hierarchy.
social
exact fixing
is
and
ditional
in
In tra-
general.
in
place
of change.
In
tra-
to
of
local
costumes,
men
are
It
clothes are
objects,
in
prede-
is
other
all
easily
manner
of tying the
shawk
also
fix
primitive
and
sible
The care
for the
woman's
it.
The smaller
They are
girls
in
do
hair starts
from
early
by
more
riage
mark themselves by
The
girls
uncovered
their
hair
in
(sometimes up
to
STYLES
AND HEAD DECORATIONS
HAIR
TRADITIONAL
head
body, the
human
the
of
analogous
is
and the
heavenly,
with
opposed
the cultural as
special attitude to
its
(the face
parts
rate
to the
material
is
male and
the
sepa-
and the
as symbols of physical
hair)
and
of virtues
maturity,
qualities of the
personality.
The
as
hair
world spaces
ical
plan
is
marker of
a mytholog-
in
also
bearer
commonly
health
the
one
of her
By
most
it
becomes
characteristic
plaiting/unplaiting,
covering/uncovering
hair
most
woman. Thus
signs.
in tra-
concepts
of
of
the
position of the
of the status
woman
in/out
palits
practical.
The unmarried
girls
doing them
for
do not
are
to
not
a clear sign.
is
rely
impressions
on the
its
hair,
people
around. The
is
(always
preferred,
side
made from
by side with
the
hair
of
the
artificial
girls
plaits
herself);
lates
ill-wishing
combinations
various
in
color, with
to distract the
and to direct
attention
is
widely
strong,
of
why
known
That
evil.
The aim
it
hair
which
The
girl
who combines
he keeps her
In
his
who
of
love
the
most
well
traditional
in
the love
is
to express
them because
steals
heart - this
demonstration
established
aspect.
in
mean-
intentions
from the
left
side
worn on the
right
feel-
ings
of
clear
(kitka) are
wedding
ritual
Its
is
is
live
flowers
ritual,
they
embody
application
(its
life
it
and
direct
relation to the
towards
it.
Arbor mundi)
The unmarried
tive
strips
made
mainly
in
red, with
as
strips
plaits.
The
abundence
or
attached to the
of apotropaic objects.
The
hair,
which
is all
woman possesses
still
another fes-
bearer
addressed
sublime events
to the
her
in
life
- the
ceremony.
wedding
the
messages
mythical
ancient
of
time
the
In
The expression
substitute.
tic
seman-
hair style as a
adds to the
that
she
is
the
girl.
for a
The
is
understood by the
interpreter puts an
the context of
in
of the
ried one.
uncovered
strict
is
mar-
for the
such actions
prohibition for
to
a priority
is
off
is
woman's
head
until
is
in
some cases
This
covering.
connected
is
until
nary
law,
ritual
by
scholars
the
to
way
the
after
to preserve the
memory
rule.
by
1
foreign
6th 1 8th
donors
c.
women's
in
During
14th
the
two centuries
the
of
craftsmen.
Balkans
the
the 15th c.
of
Dragalevtzi
and
is
It
about
notes
travel
later
in
of wealthy
and
15th
in
tradesmen
c.
similar
woman.
more important, we
are sure of
appear-
is
bolic function
its
symis
Southeastern
Europe,
and the
people
along the
River
interpreted as a
(the
symbol
Scythian goddess).
life
It
of the Great
Mother Goddess
stresses on
sexual potency,
Goddess
Ishtar.
The
to horned female
that
gods
of
fertility.
it
becomes
clear
in
Thus
are also cultural influences, but the hats and the hair
and
mythological
is
which
is
The
to
thus
also
something fundamental
in
in
culture
al
women
"covering
with
hat"
and symbolic
Bulgarian traditionit.
marks
important
an
r.v
moment
the
in
importance
als,
veil.
it
life
is
woman. Because
of the
of
its
social
ritu-
most
The
married
woman, whose
only
solemn signs
of the clothing.
advantage
is
Such
is
signified by
is
the lux-
woman,
her
"symbolic
profit".
In
its
representative
in
elements
of. the
the wedding
is
woman
first
hair
to disappear after
one
or
in
a simplified form,
described
is
used
covering
the
the end of
till
with
and
life
hat
an
is
just
oblig-
women
which
women
marked by a
is
clearly
shows
the
consists
in
covering the
in
new
social
hair
life
and
their sign
on
his
head -
tram
ation,
for
this
since
norm
in
it
a hat.
shows
The
is
It
is
is
life
ot
devisitu-
unshaven
why
the
first
so called strizhba.
image
life. All
signalizes an abnormal
sexes
and without
ry
man
made
women
division
never
of the
trie
crosslike -
at three, five,
bestman (sometimes
his
and
alive)
always connected by
is
visits
all
of guests,
this is
"to rec-
and a member
ot society."
hair,
of the
papers as a male
this
way
and
plait
in
described
is
hair cut
is
is
ethnographic
in
round
it.
Gradually
long forgotten.
hair
first
shifted
is
is
It
numerous
Shaving
family.
reason
end
"male strength"
of
friends
role.
way
ritual
are
(at
of the married
present. This
man
marks
is
All
relatives
and
his
able to
man and
is
By shaving the
ing to the
for that
is
life
is
The
traditional
image
men
(yet
of the Bulgarian
and
man
contains
in
man.
imposes
them, they
to
them.
To be bearheaded
the
the
impermissible for
is
Probably the
idea
observance
strict
of
limit
and
of the rules
magic power.
tionally
head
the
In
19th
the
c.
is
the
fess
city
the
or
wrapped round
during
(saruk)
fabric
felt
towel (peshkirche)
even
red
is
holidays.
The
shepherd's
one piece,
of
woolen
hood made
tied
strings.
and
head
covers
doubt
(sciallo
No
kukullis).
inside.
under
it
is
As
form
Not so
to present him.
much
man and
aesthetical-
ly
in
connected with
is
results of the
ness
is
in
the
and
quality
the
general.
marked by a
specific
community
the
is
is
the theme
and
sion
women,
bunch
both
most
of
in
self-exprefor
The formation
wreath
man
men
with
and
the
peacock
feather.
it
whom
tilted to
is
it
pleteness
in
tucked down.
on the
dressing
including
all
community
first
place there
at the
back
within the
the
local
hair styles,
hats,
worn
in
the traditional
The
shirt,
right to
upper dress,
is
received
of
right side
to the hair.
is
kinds of dresses
several basic
its
tra-
ness. In the
the bottom
principles.
distinguishes
this
of signs in the
The
and
pressed
and stick
WORDS
CONVERSATION WITHOUT
ditional
married
terri-
tory.
analogical
top
Bulgarian ethnic
in
is
unmarried
of traditional cos-
inten-
men and
for
As an important part
their diversity.
hat.
head covers
Its
acquisition
marks the
first
socialization
- with
child),
entering
fertile
age
- with
upper
the
according
dress
nation
status
woman
limit,
his
es
aprons,
shirts,
a wife
already no".
overdressing,
strates
marker each
of the
concepts
into
demona
social
transforms
As
oversignification.
cosmos which
about
social
he
order and
norms
preted
A second
tional
the
is
for
created.
basic principle
clothing
from the
is
costume
trie
in
layering
decorations -
It
embroidered and
tassels,
textile
con-
principle
third
major zones
tical line
in
the
Signs are
accessories.
called
ver-
some elements
or
it
all
of
it)
with the
demonstrated, by a special
ried is freely
unmarand
hair style
It
the married
waist
we
for the
young
color,
distinction
covered/bare
orna-
is
girls,
addition-
the metal
girdle,
pompons, pendants or
on three
stress
the
includes
eral
shirt to
The
of
of several dress-
upper clothes,
belts,
at
becoming
one combi-
becoming head
social
in
ing,
highest
the
this is her
it
separated
clothing
(the
croosed
with
feet
the
women;
woman
married
bride)
in
greatest
of
birth
one,
the
"till
two,
men
dren." With
is
{young
chil-
attention
focused on marking
his
period
the
woman
conquering
of
and setting up
a family.
As
costume
lished
and
woman
for the
man
ties to
mark
is
sign
the
so well estab-
that
deviation
metal
social
the
slightest
gives opportuni-
er.
or
dren,
increas-
drastically
es with
ready for
those
it
with
woman
and
for
the
their
young
yound
which
importance
community. The
decoration
with the old
old
the
man,
married
proves
the
woman,
disappears
man and
equal
in
the
this
This
is
temporary removal
of
the
signs
in
the
three
zones
apron,
hat,
girdle,
shoes,
letting
woman's
loose of the
growing a beard
hear,
by men.
situations
All
are
- the natural,
body
and
turns
den
man
The
social.
mythically
the
becomes a
hid-
dress
his
in
leaves
into
it
the
alien,
and
non-cultural
The
ence
of
behavior
is
based on
under the
obeyance.
its
in
influ-
this
In
unification,
The heritage
wards",
in
important
is
in
"out-
Normally the
most
connected
with
clothing
signifying
included.
resources,
and consist
social belonging
rank
hampered communication
why
on when
fashion
comes
overpowering
to
be
like
of social
costume appear
at
new language,
rule
symbols
of
the
language
of
everybody
else,
but
head,
opposite to
understood only
all
"foreign" yes.
in
his
community and
.."-
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JrL^TtU II I .AI/IAM
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virixjmni ic
*
i
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OF
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ova
Julliana Tom
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...
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