Western Food Fads &

Regional Food Security

A Case Study of Quinoa
Name: Kaz Hassan (31573728)

Word Count: 2600

Date: 23/11/2015

Table of Contents
Key Definitions..................................................................2
1| Introduction ................................................................3
2| The causes of health food fads.......................................3
3| Introduction to case study: Quinoa.................................5
4|Who is effected? - Quinoa continued................................6
5| Beyond food security - Quinoa continued......................10
5.1| What if it is all a fad?..........................................................................11

6| Conclusion..................................................................12
Bibliography...................................................................13

Key Definitions
Some terms used in this essay have complex and varied
understandings usually dependent on publisher and/or
circumstance. Whilst this is accepted, for the purpose of clarity the
below definitions have been provided in the realms of this essay for
sound discussion.
Food Fads: [Food, drink or eating habits that] enter popular culture
rather quickly but then fade away or evolve into long-term trends
(Allen & Alabala, 2007, pp.174-75)
Regional Food Security: Where food security is when all people
at all times have access to sufficient, safe and nutritious food that
meets their dietary needs and food preferences for an active and
healthy life (FAO, 1996), regional food security is looking at
challenges that affect the above but are only directly relevant to a
specific geographic area. Predominantly in the developing world.
Healthier/Health Foods: Natural, plant based crops that provide
nutritional benefits to consumers
Quinoa: Botanically known as Chenopodium quinoa Wild is a
pseudocereal indigenous to the Andean region, South America
(Matiacevicha et al., 2006). Domestically, its use is comparable to
that of a grain such as rice (Jancurova et al., 2009).

1| Introduction
One of the largest challenges to food security is providing sufficient
supply of food to a growing world population whilst considering the
need to reduce greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions and conserve
scarce global resources, particularly water from agricultural use
(Foley et al., 2011). With global population projected to grow 2.4
billion by 2050, 37.5% of this growth is expected purely in Asia
(United Nations, 2015).
Asia has also experienced rapid commercialisation and economic
development, two aspects which when coupled with globalisation
are said to contribute to westernised practices, instead of their
traditional societal norms (Laue, 1989) (Uusitalo et al., 2005). The
most commonly associated consequence of dietary westernisation is
increased consumption of meat, processed food and dairy products
(Smil, 2002), all very resource intensive thus perpetuating the
aforementioned food security challenge (Baroni et al., 2006).
Conversely, westernisation of diets also includes voluntary shifts
towards healthier food (Uusitalo et al., 2005), and whilst its
production is comparatively environmentally friendly (Leitzmann,
2003) (Pimentel & Pimentel, 2003), the effect of its increased
demand on regional food security is relatively little-known.
Unlike meat, trends of health food demand are somewhat sporadic
and multifaceted; occurrences of food fads are increasingly
unpredictable (Barnet & Cavanagh, 1995). As such, there is a need
to assess the scale of the problem and whether management is
required.

2| The causes of health food fads (311/250)

The concept of health food faddisms is not new to the West, cultural
awareness of diet effects dates back to early 19th century where
education and scientific development led to a mass acceptance that
food consumption links directly to health and wellbeing, exemplified
by the popularity of phrase you are what you eat (Jarvis, 1983).
Since that time, much has changed in Western food systems that
mean diet choices evoke considerations that spread far beyond
small-scale chains in the West.
Firstly, the type of food consumed is no longer reliant on popular
health foods proven scientifically, traits of celebrity culture and
following the idolised allow those in the public eye scope to
influence diets beyond national norms (McBean & Speckmann,
1974)
The UK in particular has experienced broad social developments and
shifts in values, such as changes in food production, motorised
transport and work/home lifestyle patterns (Government Office for
Science, 2007). This has resulted in largely unhealthy eating habits
and unprecedented obesity rates with nearly 25% of Adult UK
population obese, expected to rise 40% by 2025 (Government Office
for Science, 2007). Coupled with this are campaigns from authorities
and other groups to increase and diversify our consumption of
health foods.
Lastly, the spread of communication transformed how information
about all the above is pertained and increased the amount of people
that can access it. Not constrained by national boundaries the
Internet and mass media has increased the range of information
available, how many people can access it and who provides it
(McBean & Speckmann, 1974). This perpetuates the previous
factors, meaning the Western food systems are difficult to
understand have complex regulatory processes.

Given all of the above, it is clear health food fads are a phenomenon
likely to keep occurring. Hence establishing whether a past or a
current health food fad has had undesired effects on regional food
security is key.

3| Introduction to case study: Quinoa

In order for a health food fad to develop, a previously untapped
product in Western culture requires fruition. The United Nations
announcement of 2013 being the UN International Year of Quinoa
illustrates a level of promotion that might cause a food fad.
Quinoa contains more protein than any comparable crop and
includes all eight essential amino acids needed for tissue
development. This makes it especially popular amongst vegans and
vegetarians who prefer not to take food supplements. It is also a
product that meets growing demand from the West for exotic
health foods (Cook et al., 2004). Often derived from countries only
accessible through globalisation and technology advancement.
With UNs year of quinoa came subsequent research and promotion,
many supported by the Food and Agricultural Organisation (FAO). As
Shils and Goodhart state, the very act of examining a nutritional
substance in detail will amplify its importance to consumers (1973).
Naturally this rise in exposure filtered its way to the general public
and this can be seen as the cause of the food fad. The result of
quinoa growth in the West is illustrated in the infographic below:
Figure 1- Infographic portraying the growth of quinoa demand worldwide

Graphic source; Author | Statistics source; (Jordan, 2013) (Avitabile, 2014) (CEIC,
2015)

4|Who is effected? - Quinoa continued

Whilst the growth of quinoa classifies it as a Western food fad,
whether this process affects regional food security remains to be
seen.
One aspect that requires consideration is how quinoa agronomy
affects the regions it is grown in. Small family farms in the Andean
high plains provide the majority of quinoa produced, usually in
Bolivia or Peru (Whole Grains Council, 2013). Agriculture in this
region is typically high risk due to adverse climatic conditions
ranging from drought to frost and soil salinity (Jacobsen, 2003).
Despite this quinoa has been shown to thrive in these conditions
(Richards, 1987), even when severe drought has occurred some
quinoa genotypes have resisted the conditions (Jacobsen, 2003).
Obviously this is positive for the local farmers who otherwise
constrained by their climate are limited in their income sources from
agriculture.
Much research has been done on the genetic variability of quinoa to
gauge the crops potential for growth beyond the Andes.
Experiments that showed the best yield were in the Mediterranean
where seed yields were up to 4 tonnes per hectare (t/ha), in some
cases greater than yields in the native Andres (3-5 t/ha) (Mujica et
al., 2001). Even the growing region in Colorado, USA, where seeds

were planted at 2000 metres above sea level (masl) yields reached
1 t/ha on average (Johnson, 1993) (Jacobsen, 2003).
Overall, the genetic variability of quinoa is far above its comparable
crops. Cultivars of quinoa can be adapted to grow from sea level up
to 4000 masl, from 408S to 28N latitude (Jacobsen, 2003).
Meaning quinoa can grow from highland climate to subtropical
conditions. Geographically this allows parts of USA, Southern Europe
(including SE UK) (Fleming & Galwey, 1995), Africa and Asia to have
successful cultivation. The quinoa food fad may open up extra
income pathways for farmers in these regions. Alternatively should
there be insufficient demand or high competition the spread of
quinoa to new societies could provide a new form of national
subsistence (Jancurova et al., 2009). Given its climatic resilience and
nutritional benefit, this appears largely beneficial for farmers,
especially in developing regions such as sub Saharan Africa where
climatic change is limiting the growing season for crops farmers
currently reply on for survival.
Sustainable production of quinoa is pivotal to ensure the long-term
food security of the Andean region is not affected, especially given
water scarcity is a major constraint to plant production in the region.
This is the result of low rainfall, high evapotranspiration rate, and
poor soils with a low water-retaining capacity (Jacobsen, 2003). The
effect of this has previously been felt in the region where growth
demand in the West for asparagus increased plantation in Perus
Inca Valley. The cultivation area for asparagus expanded to 100
square kilometres, the vast area also required much irrigation to
meet demand. Consequently the water table reduced by up to eight
metres each year, and two wells serving nearly 20,000 local people
dried up. It is forecasted current exploitation rates will exacerbate a
third of the citys supplies in 25 years, serving 185,000 people
(Progressio, 2010).

Positively, the agronomy of quinoa does not require resource

intensive cultivation practices. Given that quinoa growth can
experience minor drought stress and not result in large yield
decreases (Garcia et al., 2003). However, farmers may require some
irrigation in years that exhibit continuous drought. Usually the
sustainable practice of deficit irrigation (DI) is sufficient, supplying
little water to a larger area. Though cases exist where farmers
overestimate the water required and can have negative
consequences on seed yield (Garcia et al., 2003). This proves that
the growth of quinoa, where farmers are well educated should not
threaten future food security through resources depletion as in the
case of asparagus. Furthermore its growth requires little soil
preparation and only residual organic fertilisers from the preceding
crop hence the growth is having no long term effects on soil quality
(FAO, 1994). Equally, those that do use DI must take precaution with
the water quality. High salinity water will increase salt accumulation
in the root zone, in turn decreasing yields in such an arid area
(Geerts et al., 2008).
Whilst it seems there is good understanding of how to produce
quinoa sustainably, precaution must be taken to ensure farmers are
well educated in using the most suitable techniques and not place
strain on area lacking water supply and good quality soils.
Economically quinoa production is vital for many farmers; in
Southern Bolivia 81% of farmers rely on quinoa as their primary
income source (Avitabile, 2014). Considering rural Bolivia can have
up to 70% of inhabitants below the poverty line (World Bank, 2005),
the strength of the quinoa market is pivotal. Following the food fad
some farmers have seen their incomes rise 400% with the majority
of farmers content with the price level (Avitabile, 2014). Beyond
direct economic benefits there are increased agrotourism
opportunities related to quinoas role in food security and climate

change (Bazile et al., 2014). This has directly improved basic living
standards for locals involved with the market, one key aspect being
enhanced ability to be food secure. Whats more due to the high
demand and relatively thin supplies available for trade this defines
quinoa as a seller market. Thus farmers and other related
producers have power to get good value prices and the best
potential financial gain (FAO, 2013). Looking to the future, it needs
to be ensured this market state carries on with growth and
commercial farms dont undercut local farmers.
With increased demand of quinoa and better regional economies
come incentives for external funding. In the case of the chickpea
demand, the EU has invested in production areas in Sudan to
improve infrastructure and farming techniques (CGIAR, 2014). These
improvements would allow Andean farmers to increase productivity
and may provide education related to successful cultivation
techniques. In turn positively impacting food security.
Outside of the producing regions, the increased awareness of quinoa
and its nutritional benefits has led to the crop being cited in NASAs
controlled ecological life support system (Jacobsen, 2003). This
shows quinoas potential to remove CO2 from the atmosphere as
well as generate food and water for space missions crews (Schlick &
Bubenheim, 1996), its use in helping food security stems beyond
producer regions via the multiplier effect.
Due to poverty in producing regions and the lack of crops suited for
Andean highland soil and climate, some speculate local quinoa food
supply has been disrupted following the price hikes affiliated with
the food fad. (Blythman, 2013). In Oruro one of Bolivias biggest
quinoa producing areas, retail price increased by 125% (Bs 12 to 27
per kg) between April 2008 and March 2013 (FAO, 2013). In
comparison, other staples such as bread or rice either remained

stable or decreased in price (FAO, 2013). Overall this has led to

changing dietary patterns in the region. This acts as a threat to
regional food security as those that can no longer afford quinoa omit
on the nutritional benefits that instead are supplemented relatively
inferior foods.
Although some argue the fact locals have a more varied diet is
healthier than adhering to past habits of consuming quinoa seven
days a week (Avitabile, 2014). This is a debate that requires greater
analysis; should sufficient regulation be in place to monitor dietary
patterns and subsequent health impacts, concerns of the food fads
affecting the safe and nutritious pillar of food security in the Andes
are limited. Moreover the rejuvenation in the regional economy
should countermand the negative impacts to some capacity.
The Peruvian and Bolivian government have shown awareness of
this issue and have put in targets to ensure quinoa is still utilised
nationally for example by promising a $10 million loan for farmers to
grow more quinoa for domestic consumption and setting a goal of
raising per capita consumption (FAO & CIRAD, 2015). However, it
should be noted that observing per capita consumption could skew
results. Those that need the nutritional benefit the most are the
lower classes that cant necessarily afford sufficient quantity of food.
Rise in per capita consumption could be due to increased usage
from middle and upper classes in the region.
It should not be ignored that food fads can positively impact global
food security through education. When a health food fad arises, it
typically raises awareness of negative dietary effects from other
foods; examples include substituting honey for sugar, and in the
case of quinoa, substituting it for the less nutritious white rice
(Jarvis, 1983).

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5| Beyond food security - Quinoa continued

Food security impacts alone will not help understand the scale of the
issue and in turn appropriate management strategies. The metaprocesses involved must also be noted.
The knowledge of capitalising on the quinoa food fad has spread
throughout the Andes. Alike many countries in the developing world,
Bolivia is experiencing mass rural to urban migration due to
industrial development. The quinoa food fad has helped stabilise
migration flows in the region as citizens return to rural parts for
quinoa farming (Avitabile, 2014).
The revived regional economy in the Andes has increased
investment into schools and healthcare services. Even those that
dont benefit economically should experience advantages as their
region thrives. Aside from increasing standard of living through
better infrastructure and amenities, as discussed earlier, increased
education provision can positively impact food security (Jarvis,
1983).
Though not relevant in the case study of quinoa, health food fads
can be manipulated or misinterpreted. Retailers and other relevant
stakeholders can sell the illusion of health as to gratify their
customer's appetites. In some cases, exotic foods are labeled
"healthy or natural when in reality their nutritional benefits are
overestimated or unproven. Where there is lack of education, some
consumers use health food fads to dispel the guilt of eating
unhealthy foods, believing that the health food will offset unwanted
traits such as obesity (Jarvis, 1983), whereas the relationship
between food and health is much more complex.
Likewise the language used by retailers and mass media is often
emotionally loaded; health food fads are referred to as super

11

foods in order to appeal to a vulnerable demographic known as

miracle seekers (McBean & Speckmann, 1974). The name often
prescribed to quinoa is aptly titled the miracle grain of the Andes.
Whilst the above problem doesnt target the most vulnerable to food
insecurity in terms of fiscal assets, there are sets of challenges
related to ethics of health food fads that need addressing. As
McBean and Speckmann identify the developed world still lack
access to reliable and simply presented information (1974).
Although not immediately apparent this does threaten aspects of
food security.
Food fads also do very little to reduce food miles as often, as in the
case of quinoa, food is sourced from geographically distant regions
for consumption in the West. Whilst some movements advocate for
locally grown produce, health food fads rarely recognise the need to
reduce carbon emissions from transport of food.

5.1| What if it is all a fad?

By definition a food fad can either evolve as part of food culture, or
alternatively decrease in popularity. With 81% of farmers in South
Bolivia dependent on quinoa as their primary source of income
(Avitabile, 2014), should the latter scenario occur what would
happen?
All foods are susceptible to demand fluctuations due to reasons
including consumer loss of interest, especially with health food fads,
research can expose a product to false claims or discover unknown
side effects. Hypothetically, growers could replace quinoa with a
new crop that is in higher demand, though as discussed due to the
climatic conditions, Andean farmers may struggle to find a suitable
crop. As a result adequate management is required ensure farmers

12

are not highly vulnerable, as this could prove detrimental for

regional food security.

6| Conclusion
As seen, rapid demand rises in particular foods not only impact on
regional food security but also manifest themselves in complex
facets of global food security.
FAO do recognise there are inherent risks of an uncontrolled
expansion, particularly highlighting equitable circulation of benefits
from their use outside the Andean region and sustainability of
agricultural systems (FAO & CIRAD, 2015). A prominent exclusion is
the identification of responsibility for monitoring and sustainable
development of quinoa and other health foods fads. Communication
between different users in the supply chain and other stakeholders
is important to addresses potential consequences of future trends
Looking to the future, as identified by the UN, quinoa through its
nutritional value and dynamicity is a suitable solution to many wider
food security challenges. Despite its somewhat negative
consequences on aspects of regional food security, from a holistic
perspective its rise in popularity is generally a positive signal for
global food security.

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