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The great appeal of textiles lies in their colors and the way that color is used to
create patterned effects. Color is applied by the process of dyeing, which in its
simplest form involves the immersion of a fabric in a solution of a dyestuff in
water. Patterned effects are obtained by selectively applying dyes to fabric, for
example by roller printing. The amount of dyestuff required is very small, but its
production and application require considerable skill. Changes in the ways of
producing dyes during the nineteenth century heralded the modern sciencebased chemical industry.
Natural Dyes
Dyes obtained from natural products, such as plants and insects, have been used
for decorative effect and as symbols of status for thousands of years. The
mollusk-derived Roman purple, 6,6-dibromoindigo, also called Tyrian purple,
was remarkable for its fastness to light and washing; it was also an important
mark of social distinction. The associated biblical blue holds great religious
significance among observant Jews. In China, the emperor and empress wore
yellow, the imperial ladies violet, and noblemen of the first grade blue. Explorers
of the Americas came across many natural dyes, particularly dyewoods, not
previously known in Europe. Native American peoples, such as Navajo and Hopi,
were highly skilled dyers. In Europe the blue extracted from the woad plant was
used for adornment, through the coloring of skin and later the dyeing of textiles.
By the sixteenth century dyes played a major role in political and economic
history as European nations vied for sources of new colors and the secrets of
applying natural colors. Indigo tinctoria that yielded a brighter indigo blue than
woad arrived in Europe from India and the East. Indigo and the red known as
madder, from the roots of the madder plant, were the most important natural
dyes. Indigo was used in kimono dyeing in Japan. Madder was the basis of the
fiery Turkey red. England's King George II chose indigo for the color of British
naval uniforms (hence "navy blue").
Indigo is a vat dye, which means that it was once applied in special vats. It and
other vat dyes are insoluble in water. In dyeing, indigo is converted, or reduced,
to a white form, which is soluble. Yarn or fabric is then dipped in the vat
containing the reduced dye, which on leaving the vat is oxidized in the air back to
blue. Tyrian purple and biblical blue are also vat dyes.
Dyestuffs were central to the first Industrial Revolution , from the late
eighteenth century, based on the production of and trade in textiles. This
Common Dyes
Fluorescent dyes, or whitening agents, alter the drab gray or yellow appearance of
white fabrics that have been washed many times. They do this by absorbing
ultraviolet (UV) light and reemitting the absorbed energy as fluorescence in the
blue region of the spectrum. This "blueing" makes fabrics look whiter and
brighter. Fluorescent dyes are also used as tracers in following sewage and
contaminated sources of water, and are important in detection chemistry for drug
development.
A wide variety of natural and synthetic dyes are used to color foodstuffs. Florida
oranges, often a natural green color when ripe, are sometimes dyed orange with
synthetic dyes. Since some synthetic dyes cause illness, their use is restricted, or
excluded, even in the coloration of textiles. In the United States, the Pure Food,
Drug, and Cosmetic Act enables the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) to
control the dyes in foods. This is why these dyes are given names with the prefix
FD&C or External D&C.
Hair dyes are of two types: permanent and semipermanent. Permanent dyeing is
achieved with a synthetic dye, applied with hydrogen peroxide that first bleaches
the natural pigment melanin. Semipermanent dyes are generally made with
vegetable extracts, such as henna, that coat rather than penetrate the hair shaft.
There are a number of questions about the safety of synthetic hair dyes, since
some of the products they contain cause cancer.
Easter egg dyes are natural dyes that can be found around the home. They
include blue from cabbage leaves or blueberries, orange from yellow onion skins,
red from cranberries or raspberries, pale green from spinach leaves, and light
yellow from orange or lemon peels. Dyes often have different colors in acidic and
alkaline solutions. This enables them to be used as acid-base indicators. Many
dyes are utilized as biological stains .
TIE-DYEING
Tie-dyeing is, like textile printing, selective dyeing. If a piece of wool is bound
tightly with cotton strips and then dyed by immersion in a dye bath, only those
areas exposed to the dye will take on its color. After the fabric is removed and
allowed to dry, and when the strips of cotton are untied, the tightly bound areas
show no color from the dye. Omitting dye from an area creates what is referred to
as a reserve. The whole piece can then be placed in a dye bath, so that the reserve
areas are now dyed, and the previously dyed areas show the effect of two dyes.
This process, called tie-dyeing, creates interesting patterns on fabric and is often
used in producing T-shirts, shorts, or handkerchiefs.
SEE ALSO C OSMETICS ; P ERKIN , W ILLIAM H ENRY ; P IGMENTS .
Anthony S. Travis
Bibliography
Bearfoot, Will (1975). Dyes and Fibers. Willits, CA: Oliver Press.
Brunello, Franco (1973). The Art of Dyeing in the History of Mankind. Vicenza:
Neri Pozza Editore.
Cannon, John, and Cannon, Margaret (1994). Dye Plants and Dyeing. London:
Herbert Press.
Epp, Dianne N. (1995). Palette of Color Series: The Chemistry of Natural Dyes ;
The Chemistry of Vat Dyes ; The Chemistry of Food Dyes. Middletown, OH:
Terrific Science Press.
Fox, Robert, and Nieto-Galan, Agust, eds. (1999). Natural Dyestuffs and
Industrial Culture in Europe, 17501880. Nantucket, MA: Science History
Publications.
Garfield, Simon (2001). Mauve: How One Man Invented a Color That Changed
the World. New York: W.W. Norton.
McGrayne, Sharon Bertsch (2001). Prometheans in the Lab: Chemistry and the
Making of the Modern World. New York: McGraw-Hill.
Robinson, Stuart (1968). A History of Dyed Textiles: Dyes, Fibres, Painted Bark,
Batik, Starch-Resist, Discharge, Tie-Dye, Further Sources for Research.
Cambridge, MA: MIT Press.
Robinson, Stuart (1969). A History of Printed Textiles: Block, Roller, Screen,
Design, Dyes, Fibres, Discharge, Resist, Further Sources for Research.
Cambridge, MA: MIT Press.
Shultz, Kathleen (1982). Create Your Own Natural Dyes. New York: Sterling
Publishing.
Travis, Anthony S. (1991). "Synthetic Dyestuffs: Modern Colours for the Modern
World." In Milestones in 150 Years of the Chemical Industry, ed. P. J. T. Morris,
W.A. Campbell, and H. L. Roberts. London: Royal Society of Chemistry, pp. 144
157.
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User Contributions:
1
shahid adeelchemist
Jan 8, 2007 @ 5:05 am
2
Edith Gibson
Apr 25, 2008 @ 6:06 am
I am looking for information re the use of flowers to colour pottery. This would
most likely be blue or purple and originating from India. Whatever they used
would have to be stable when the kiln was fired above 1000C
3
alvin
Mar 26, 2009 @ 5:05 am
i found that the information supplied will be beneficial to the knowledge i require to
make informed choices when dyeing.
4
mary teneyck
Apr 20, 2009 @ 6:06 am
I'm looking to create my own color dyes to use in tye dying shirts, as well as
natural hand made yarns, for weaving my own yarns and stuff, plus use it in
making up t-shirts for dying them as well, and making my own paint for using on
the t-shirts that I'd paint on. I'm already been tye dying shirts for over 40 yrs
now, going natural "GREEN" is the way to go now, save money live
better, learn something in the process~
5
ashok
Oct 27, 2009 @ 10:10 am
good artical. i want the information regarding the supply chain management ion dyes
industry
6
lexi
Dec 16, 2009 @ 1:01 am
hi...my name is lexi...im 12. i did an experiment involing dyes... this article helped
A TON thanks
7
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