Bushcraft Amp Amp Survival Skills - December UK

Editor Simon Ellar
simon@bushcraftmagazine.com
Deputy Editor
Olivia Beardsmore
olivia@bushcraftmagazine.com
THE COLOURS OF AUTUMN...
Sub-Editor ElaineGilboy
subeditor@bushcraftmagazine.com
Looking out of the office window as I write, I can see a spectacular display of autumnal fireworks as the multicoloured leaves dance and sway in the wind, with the occasional one taking flight, or spiraling to the ground.
Today is a proper autumn day. When I left for the office this morning there was a distinct crispness in the air
and the wintry sun was just peeping over the trees, now the sun is shining but there is a blustery wind shaking
the branches as if to dust off the leaves. I love autumn, the colours are amazing, it is nice to watch the squirrels
sneaking across the grass with chestnuts, masts and other bounty to store away for the winter months.
Office Administrator
Linda Frohock
info@bushcraftmagazine.com
Design Andy Childs
design@bushcraftmagazine.com
Advertising Sales
advertising@bushcraftmagazine.com
Distribution
Comag
Tavistock Road
West Drayton
Middlesex
UB7 7QE
Telephone: 01895 433800
Cover Image
Winter Woodland
Environmental
Bushcraft & Survival Skills is an Environmentally

Responsible Business. Printed on FSC paper from
sustainable sources, we use vegetable- based
inks (soya and boiled linseed oil). All waste
paper is recycled via a local transfer partner.
Refillable ink cartridges, eco-bulbs and recycled
/ recyclable consumables are used and we are
involved in several tree-planting schemes, to
name just some of our actions to be green.
Printed by Buxton Press an

award-winning, ecofriendly printer.
Cert no. TT-COC-2200
Subscriptions
UK: 29 / year (1 year, 6 issues)
Europe: 55 / year
Rest of World: 72 / year
Digital: 19 / year (1 year, 6 issues)
Subscribe online at:
www.bushcraftmagazine.com
To pay by card, telephone:
0333 4567 123 & Press Option 1
Cheques & Postal Orders payable to:
SO Publications & Events Ltd.
PO Box 16777, Tamworth, B77 9NG
All of the seasons have their own magic, but there is something special about autumn, it is a great time of the year
to get out and about, I recently caught up with some old friends in the woods and enjoyed doing some tracking,
foraging, axe throwing and of course listening to their tales around the fire as the night drew in and darkness
engulfed our surroundings.
It is hard to believe that the year has passed so fast, the animals are busy making ready for the winter months, trees
and bushes are proudly showing off their array of fruits and berries and winter will be soon upon us So on that
note, if you fancy sitting out on a nice sunny autumnal day and getting stuck into one of our craft projects why
not make your own Christmassy bowl, Jon Ridgeon guides you through the steps on page 8, capture those red,
orange and yellow autumnal colours for the one you love and present them with a maple leaf rose, in our leaf art
feature on page 18 and if the lure of all the shop displays are stirring thoughts of Christmas gifts take a look at our
Bushcraft Christmas Gift Guide on page 66 for some ideas.
Last issue we spoke about bringing some colour into the mix, see what one of our readers got up to when
following Jason Ingamellss article on natural pigment p7. We also introduced some colour into your kit bag
with our Bushcraft Branded range and in this issue see the new seasonal colours of the Kupilka campware range,
exclusive to us this Christmas; what takes your fancy on page 12?
Should you stray off the beaten track this winter, Perry McGee talks about one of the most effective and proven
signaling methods, the heliograph on p42. Geoffrey Guy shows how much young children can gain from being
involved with all aspects of bushcraft on p16 and Paul Kirtley shares ten bushcraft skills for the winter months.
What will you eat for Christmas dinner? See p24. And if you have got itchy fingers, Ian Nairn shares his Bushcraft
on a Budget Christmas decoration projects on page 34, bed down with Perry McGee in a natural bivvy bag p30
and cast your vote on our proposed new format for the magazine on page 22. Lofty Wiseman will entertain you on
p28 with another of his wonderful stories and Asa Hardy-Brownlie shares how his bushcraft dreams came true on
p56. Tim Gent takes us on an adventure around the West coast of Scotland on p58 and Ben & Lois Orford teach us
how to make a stacked handle p44. Lisa Fenton educates us about the American Frontiersmen p72 and I share my
tracking training with David Scott-Donellan p78.
As always we hope that you enjoy reading the magazine as much as we enjoy putting it together, enjoy the
autumn and winter months and have a wonderful, bushcrafty Christmas!
Happy Bushcrafting!
Tel: 0333 4567 123

E-mail: info@bushcraftmagazine.com
Website: www.bushcraftmagazine.com
Disclaimer: The opinions expressed in this
publication are not to be considered those of
the publisher. Whilst every effort is made to
ensure the accuracy of the content, data, advice
etc. contained within, no responsibility will be
accepted for any errors, omissions or comments
made by writers, interviewees, or editors, or for
comments from any other source. We accept no
responsibility for any damages incurred resulting
from the use of any information contained in this
magazine, however caused. Any prices quoted
are correct at the time of going to press.
Copyright: All articles, writings, drawings,
photographs etc. are copyright. Reproduction
in whole or in part without written permission
is strictly prohibited.
Simon Ellar
Editor
Follow Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine on Facebook
Competition guidelines: Some competitions in this magazine may be subject to eligibility criteria or age restrictions. All competitions are subject to the following rules / conditions:
i). No purchase is necessary to enter; nor is there any charge to enter any competition ii). All decisions are final. iii). Bushcraft and Survival Skills reserve the right to disqualify any entrant and / or winner at our absolute
discretion. iv). All prizes are non-transferrable and no cash or credit alternatives will be offered. v). Prizes may be distributed by a third-party sponsor so you agree by entering, for your details to be passed on to arrange the
issue of your prize. vi). Bushcraft and Survival Skills reserve the right at its sole discretion to substitue prizes of comparable value for any of the prizes. vii). Competitions are open only to UK residents with a UK delivery address;
delivery will not be made to a P.O. Box. viii). All entries must be received by the deadline shown and late or incomplete entries will be disqualified. ix). By entering a Competition, if you are a winner, you grant Bushcraft and
Survival Skills permission to publish your name and county of residence along with any comments you may issue, online or in the magazine. x). If we are unable to contact you within 14 days of the closing date or if a prize
is returned as undeliverable as addressed this will result in your disqualification and a new winner will be selected. xi). Winners are solely responsible for all insurance, incidental expenses associated with claiming the prize,
applicable taxes and for any expenses not specified in the prize description. xii). Bushcraft and Survival Skills accept no responsibility for entries that are lost, delayed or damaged in the post or lost or delayed in transmission
or for damage or loss resulting in communications not received due to computer malfunctions, viruses, etc. xiii). Competitions are not open to the employees of Bushcraft and Survival Skills, to any sponsors involved with
the competition or the immediate families of employees or sponsors. xiv). Competition winner/s agree that neither Bushcraft and Survival Skills nor any sponsors shall have any liability in connection with the acceptance or
use of any of the prizes awarded. xv). By entering our competition you give your permission for your details to be used by Bushcraft and Survival Skills and the competition sponsor to provide you with information on their
products / services; you will always be given the opportunity to unsubscribe. Bushcraft and Survival Skills accept no responsibility for the contents or accuracy of mailings from the sponsor. Your details will not be passed on to
any third parties. xvi). If you are unable to enter the competition by email to competition@bushcraftmagazine.com you can do so by sending your name, address and telephone number to the address shown above marked
competition entry. For all entries please state which competition you are entering and include your name, address, contact number and email address. Illegible or incomplete entries will be disqualified.
Winners will be notified by email, should you wish; please send an e-mail to info@bushcraftmagazine.com detailing the Competition for the names of the winner/s or send an S.A.E. to the address above, again detailing the competition.
The closing date for the competitions in this issue is the 12th December 2014 unless otherwise stated. Only one entry per person per competition is permitted.
4 BUSHCRAFT & survival skills magazine
CONTENTS...
REGULARxxxxx
3
6
20
62
64
65
Editorial
Letters to the Editor
In the News
Back Issues Offer
Subscription Offer
Next Issue
18
FEATURES
8
12
16
18
22
24
28
30
34
36
42
44
56
58
66
72
Carve a Chrismassy Bowl

Seasonal Colours of Kupilka
Bushcraft Babies
Amazing Autumnal Leaf Roses
Change is Afoot!
Wild Christmas Treats
Take The Sting Out Of It
Making a Temporary Bivvy Bag from Vegetation
Bushcraft on a Budget Decorations
10 Bushcraft & Survival Skills To Try This Winter
Heliograph Distress Signaling
Making a Stacked Knife Handle
A Dream Come True
West is Best
Bushcraft Christmas Gift Guide
The American Frontiersman
56
REVIEWS
50 Bushcraft Tools of the Trade
78 Man Tracking with David Scott-Donelan
82 Book Reviews
COMPETITIONS
7
50
66
77
82
82
Win Light My Fire Firesteel & TinderDust

Win a Silky Saw
Win Wilds of the Wolf Book
Win 50 Voucher for Specialist Instruction Sessions
Win Bushcraft 101 Book
Win True Grit Book, by Bear Grylls
subscr
iB
TODAY! E
FOR DE
T
SEE pag AILS
e 64
To view all the contributors visit www.bushcraftmagazine.com
72
BUSHCRAFT & survival skills magazine 5
LETTER'STOTHE EDITOR!
I WANT MORE, MORE, MORE...
Dear Editor,
I've had an interested in bushcraft skills for a number of years,
having started camping with my family at a very young age. I'm
pretty confident with different firelighting methods, building
shelters and using knives, but then my experience kind of runs out.
I now live up on the west coast of Scotland and have access to
a few different bits of woodland and as much moorland as I can
possibly want, so I'm wanting to immerse myself some more and
build up my knowledge and skills.
I'm looking for recommendations you have of resources on
other skills such as foraging, flora identification, tracking etc. The
remoteness makes it very difficult to get on any courses so any
other resources such as books or websites to get me started would
be a great help.
Obviously the magazine has lots of great articles and things to try,
but once every 2 months just isn't enough!
Thanks
Mark Kittle
Dear Mark,
Is that another plug to go monthly :)
There are a great number of books available covering a range of
bushcraft skills and with technology being as it is you can now
benefit from bushcrafty Apps and many informative blogs.
Collins Gem pocket version. Another one to

check out is The Forager Handbook by
Miles Irving. The Wild Flower Key by
Francis Rose and Clare OReilly covers the
identification of plants, shrubs and trees in
the UK. Animal Tracks and Signs by Preben
Bang and Preben Dahlstrom is a great
book to look at for animal tracking, if you
are looking to track humans then Tactical
Tracking Operations by David Scott-Donelan
covers what to look for and how to interpret
what you see.
STA
R
Ligh LETTE
Fire t My F R!
Tind steel ire
erD and
its w ust on
to y ay
ou!
Having lived in the Highlands I appreciate

that getting down for courses can be a challenge, there are
some companies that run courses up there periodically, but a
thought for you is to come along to The Bushcraft Show 2015
(see page 76). At the show you can attend lectures with a host of
companies to hone your existing skills and learn new ones and
there are specialist Instruction sessions should you wish to cover
something in a bit more depth. You can meet with bushcraft
instructors and discuss what courses they have
on offer so that you can verify if you feel it is
worth making a trip south for, some, as
mentioned do venture up to Scotland too.
Theres a lot to do and see at the show so
why not take a look at
www.thebushcraftshow.co.uk
Happy Bushcrafting!
Simon
For foraging, Food for Free by Richard Mabey is a good book to

carry with you whilst you are out and about, you can get it in a
Woodland Necklace Results

Dear Bushcraft Magazine Team,
Ive had a go at making the necklaces from the last issue and
think it turned out not too bad. Thinking of other stuff to do with
the elder wood now thanks to your great magazine.
Thomas Petrie
Dear Thomas,
We love receiving letters where readers have gone out and
followed the articles in the magazine, sending in photographs of
their creations.
What a lovely job, I can see a few Christmas Gifts in the making :)
Keep crafting and Happy Bushcrafting!
Simon
Happy Christmas to all our readers.
Rekindled my Interest
Dear Tony,
Dear Editor,
I am so glad that you enjoyed reading issue 52 and that you

found it inspiring!
I have always had an interest in bushcraft and survival

techniques, but have not done a lot of practical work. After
reading your magazine for the first time (Sep/Oct issue) it has
rekindled my interest and encouraged me to get off my bum
and get out into nature with my six year old son and get active.
As a youngster I belonged to a youth group called the NTC and
I regularly enjoyed canoeing, camping, orienteering, air rifle
shooting and much more. I now want my son to try out these
pursuits and with the help of your magazine I will. Thanks for
giving me that interest back and I look forward to reading your
magazine again and again, thanks again.
We have had many letters over the years similar to yours

along with letters of thanks that the magazine content and the
subsequent fun experienced has got youngsters outdoors and
away from technology. Getting out there
and doing the things you mentioned are so
important in building a balanced, rounded
character, there are so many benefits from
being out in Nature. I hope that you and
your son have hours of fun and many, many
happy adventures.
Regards,
Tony Soper
Happy Bushcrafting!
Simon
Dyeing to try it!
Dear Andy,
Dear Editor,
Congratulations on winning the

book, it is great to hear that it is
being put to good use!
After reading Jason Ingamells' article in the

last issue and winning the Swedish Carving
Techniques Book, I spent Sunday in the
garden putting it to good use. The kuska had
been started at Woodland Ways and I stained
the spoon with blackberry juice.
You have done a super job, how

satisfying to look at those items
and say to yourself I made that!
I love the natural stain too!
Thanks for a brilliant magazine,
Keep up the good work.
Andy Houseago
Happy Bushcrafting!
Simon
To win a Light My Fire Firesteel and

TinderDust, send in your Letter to the editor
to letters@bushcraftmagazine.com
Follow Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine

on Facebook
Write
Today!
CARVING A BOWL
CARVE a 'CHRISTMASSY'
BOWL!
AUTHOR PROFILE:
With Christmas approaching what better craft project

for this issue than to teach you how to make your own
Christmassy bowl! Whether you use it as the centrepiece
on your Christmas table for your Brussel Sprouts with
Chestnuts and Pancetta, make it as a gift to be treasured,
or place it on the side with nuts or chestnuts in it, this
hand carved bowl will certainly stand out this Christmas
wherever it goes.
Jon Ridegon
JonRidegonis chief instructor and owner of
JonsBushcraft. Jon feels that nature has taught
him the skills and wisdom that is so precious to
his heart and finds that learning bushcraftis surely
one of the ultimate ways to learn about oneself
and surroundings. With aBA in Fine Art, Jon takes
woodland crafts into a new dimension from an exquisite birch bark container
to building a Canadian canoe; every bit of detail is carefully crafted.
Choose the most

uniformly shaped
half to work with. Carve
the split surface smooth
and flat. Also, carve the
bottom slightly flat so it
will not rock over onto
one side
Start with a straight grained log of suitable

dimensions. If the wood is still fresh that will
make the carving easier. Chop it down the centre
with an axe
Chop off
excess
wood
forming the
basis for
the handles
Make 2 cuts where you would like the

handles to meet the bowl section as shown.
Watch you don't cut too deep otherwise you
won't have handles at all...
Now mark out your handles and begin to carve

them to shape
Now round off

the ends of the
bowl section
with a knife.
With care, a
hatchet can
also be used
CARVING A BOWL
Continue refining the shape and form in general until

you're happy
These carving jobs can take a while. If you decide to stop and
carry on the next day, put your work in a plastic bag so it
doesn't dry out and become harder to carve
Carving out the bowl:
Finishing off:
Using a spoon knife, start out by carving across the grain. It is best
not to carve too close to the edges until the majority of the wood
has been removed. The first cuts can be tricky, but once you have
a purchase on the wood it becomes easier for the cutting edge to
bite. Carve with a sweeping action to scoop out the wood. You can
use any part of the cutting edge to tackle tricky areas.
When the carving is complete, place the dish inside an open bag
(paper bag is best) for as long as it takes to dry out. The bag will
slow down the rate of drying which should prevent the wood from
splitting. I like to put the bag on its side so that any evaporation
does not quickly just go straight up and away.
This job can be hard on the hands. If it feels like you may develop
blisters, wear a pair of leather gloves.
Once dry, you can sand the wood smooth if you like. Start with
coarse grade paper and finish with fine grade. Alternatively, you
could make a really clean job of the carving; even tool marks have
quite an attractive quality.
Try to carve the dish so that the walls are an even thickness, gauge
where you need to take more wood off using your fingers like
callipers. It can be wise to leave the wood a little thicker near to
the handles. If thick wood suddenly meets thin wood it is likely to
crack at this point when the wood dries.
You can also wipe the wood over with some food-grade oil
to bring out the natural colour and enhance the grain. I used
vegetable oil but mineral oil is preferable.
Happy carving!
KUPILKA
SEASONAL COLOURS FOR

THE KUPILKA RANGE...
One day whilst sitting around the

campfire Grandpa reached for my cup
and said, Kupilka is an old name, from
times way back In ancient times it was
a tradition to sit around the fire and
drink from a small cup. When evening
came, your own Kupilka was like your
best friend, it was a time to listen to
stories, the waves on the lake, the wind
in the trees in the forest and to drink
something hot and sweet
KUPILKA products were designed by Kari Kuisma together with
a well-known Finnish architect and designer Heikki Koivurova.
KUPILKA means little cup and the word stems from the Finnish
word kuppi. It also refers to a term used by Finnish people
decades ago, when men and
women warmed up their
hands with their kupilka or
little cup by drinking hot
beverages during the harsh
Finnish winters.
up of 50% pine fiber (wood) and 50% plastic. If you compare it

to plastic, the benefits of Natural Fiber Composites fare better
with heat endurance and are more durable thanks to the stiff
structure. If you compare it to wood, the benefits of the Natural
Fiber Composites are that it doesn't require maintenance, doesn't
"absorb" smells and is insensitive to humidity.
All KUPILKA products are dishwasher safe.
KUPILKA products are also recyclable, if you return it to the
factory at the end of its life-span, the product can even be ground
up and cast again into a new product. All KUPILKA packages &
label cards are made from recycled cardboard.
Durable, Heat Resistant, (-30C to +100C), Lightweight,
Maintenance free, Easily cleaned, Dish-washer safe, Attractive.
For years the range has been available in brown, brown, and oh
yes, brown. To get into the Christmas swing of things take a look
at the striking new red and green colours, very Christmassy or
autumnal if you are feeling a bit Bah Humbug!
The manufacture of the

KUPILKA products started
in 2003, they are made of a
Biomaterial - Thermoplastic
Natural Fiber Composites
material, which is made
Bushcraft Branded Kupilka Cutlery Set

Fork, Knife, Spoon, Teaspoon
Weight 56g
Price 9.50
Sometimes it is nice to just have a separate knife, fork and spoon!
A Kuksa is a handmade wooden drinking cup traditionally made by

the Sami from a birch burl. Birch burl kuksas last much longer than
those made from standard birch (or other) timber and were salted
and cured before being carved. Some have a flat handle, some
a handle with a hole, some two holes. The insulating properties
of the wood stopped the cups freezing to the lips in the extreme
arctic winters, many were personalised with intricate carvings,
others with antler inlays and some were just simple and plain. A
well-made kuksa lasts a lifetime, just needing washing out with
water after each use
Bushcraft Branded Kuksa (Mug) - Kupilka 21

Volume 2,1 dl / 7.10 fl oz
Weight 83g / 2.93 oz
Price 12
A great traditional style mug for the outdoors.
Bushcraft Branded Large Plate - Kupilka 44

Price 12
Great plate for food prep and eating, handy handles on the side!
KUPILKA
Bushcraft Branded Bowl Kupilka 55

Price 12
LIMITED STOCK!
Order No
shop.bushcraftm w agazine.com
With soups and stews being commonplace

campfire meals this bowl is ideal, easy to
hold!
Bushcraft Branded Kupilka Gift

Box Set
Kupilka Mug (55) and Bowl (21)
Packaged in recycled cardboard.
Price 22
The two bushcraft staples, a bowl and mug
Bushcraft Branded Kupilka Premium

Box Set
Kupilka shot cup, kuksa, large plate, bowl
and cutlery set
Package weight 1500g
Package dimensions 110 x 290 x 380 mm
Price 89
Ideal gift containing all the key items (and a
shot cup)!
All of the above are available in the new

Cranberry Red, or Conifer Green colours and
of course Original (brown) and come with the
Bushcraft Branded logo.
The red and green products are exclusive in
the UK to shop.bushcraftmagazine.com until
the New Year. So, if you want an eco friendly,
colourful, seasonal Christmas gift that will be
treasured and last for many years, take a look as
stocks are limited.
*We thank our Finnish friend, TV presenter,
journalist and outdoor writer Joppe Ranta for
the colourful photographs of the new green
and red products amongst the flora and fauna
of Finland. Joppe loves Kupilka products, he
will be speaking at The Bushcraft Show and
sharing and demonstrating his Finnish Bushcraft
Skills. Visit www.thebushcraftshow.co.uk for
more information about the Finnish camp, the
products you can see and our Finnish Sauna Tent
where you can relax at the end of the day!
EDUCATION
BUSHCRAFT BABIES
Us adults who enjoy bushcraft recreationally, or even
professionally, would normally measure our progress
and ability in terms of what skills we have mastered, how
beautiful our carvings are, or how many wild foods we
can identify. What about a child though; who may be too
young and lack the strength and co-ordination to master
a bow-drill or do any heavy chopping or detailed carving,
can they still benefit from bushcraft?
suppose many of us who have children get them involved in

bushcraft to one degree or another and maybe some of you
who teach bushcraft for a living
run courses or activities especially
for younger children. In this article
it is younger children that I will
be writing about, up to the age
of about eight, do these young
children just play at bushcraft; or
can they learn something from it?
I think whether they can or not
depends a lot on how much we
are willing to trust them; if all they
do is sit by the campfire or climb
trees while we whittle, prepare
foraged food, or build a shelter,
they won't get as much out of it
as they could. It's true they might
have a good time and they may
develop good relationships and
a keen interest in nature and the
outdoors, but could they learn
more if we trusted them to do
more? I was always planning to
introduce my children to the
outdoors from an early age, but
hadn't really considered letting
them use knives until they were
eight until I saw a young Sami
boy with a pukko knife on his belt
expertly twirling a lasso to catch
reindeer on one of Lars Monsen's
television programmes. After that
I thought why not? If children
use knives in other cultures and
my children see me using one on
a daily basis, why not get them
started now?
So that's what I did, at three years
old my son Michael got his first
knife. Hes four now and the knife
hangs on a hook inside the shed
and Michael has proved to me
that he is responsible enough
to be allowed to fetch it from
the shed whenever I am in the
garden to supervise him. His
sister Lillie has recently got her
first knife although at only two
hers hangs higher up in the shed
AUTHOR PROFILE:
Geoffrey Guy
Geoffrey is a game management lecturer at
Reaseheath College specialising in gamekeeping,
deer management and countryside/outdoor
recreation. He has a particular interest in bushcraft
and is involved in research projects looking at
the educational value of bushcraft. He has been
able to use some of this research towards the
requirements of a Masters Degree in outdoor education which he is currently
studying.
where she can't reach it without help and I sit

with her while she uses it.
My son Michael wonders if he will be

able to light these sweet chestnut
flowers with his firesteel
Lillie wanted to make a hand drill just as she had seen

me doing so thats what she did. The knife isnt quite
as close to her face as it looks, but these are excellent
opportunities to spot poor technique and put it
right before children become strong enough to cut
themselves really badly
One of Michael's first projects, made

with a great deal of help and guidance
but nonetheless it was his and he
loved it
Seeing them learn to do more and more with their

knives even at only a few years old has made me
wonder about just how important that kind of
manual skill is for a childs development. In fact I have
been inspired by their enjoyment of bushcraft and
their use of knives in particular, to conduct a piece
of research looking at the development of manual
dexterity and fine motor skill in children who use knives regularly. I
would welcome anyone who may be interested in participating in
this research to get in touch, my contact details can be found at the
end of this article.
Using knives and tools is not the only bushcraft activity that could
help children develop dexterity and fine motor skills though;
mixing ingredients for camp fire cooking and making and
preparing cordage are just a
couple of examples of activities
which might develop those
skills.
What other skills or attributes
might children develop from
participating in bushcraft
though?
Risk
perception
zone grows as they are exposed to the woods and natural world,
yes they may not be doing bushcraft in the sense that we as adults
practice it, but how else do you introduce children if not by simple
activities; like den building, tracking and wildlife identification. Also
I have noticed that whether or not children seem to relate well
to each other they always relate well with nature once exposed
to it. One child I observed during a six week long Forest School
programme I ran, much preferred to work/play on his own rather
than with the other children and this did not
change over the course of the six weeks. He
still preferred working on his own by the end
but he had developed a great relationship
with nature and the outdoors and had
absolutely no reservations about getting
stuck into the games and activities however
wet and muddy they were.
Relationship
with nature
It is this development of a respect for,

interest in and ultimately relationship
The idea that being in the
with nature that is perhaps the most
woods or using knives or
significant benefit of practising bushcraft
playing with fire is dangerous
and being involved in nature in general. It
seems to be one of the major
is a relationship which seems to be to be
reasons for not involving
lacking in far too many young people today.
children in bushcraft, or
In response to what he saw as the growing
outdoors activities in general.
detachment of young people from their
But actually there is now a
natural environment Gsta Frohm set up
great deal of literature which
the Skogsmulle programme in Sweden in
suggests that the reverse is
the 1950s to draw children back into nature.
true. That in fact isolating
In the UK we have since copied this in the
children form all forms of risk
form of Forest Schools. I don't think this
and danger does not keep
detachment from nature is purely the fault
them safe but makes them
of technology like games consoles (although
unaware of risks and hazards
Michael stripping horseradish stems with a piece
I do think they are partly to blame, and am
and incapable of taking
of flint to prepare fibres for cord making
definitely not a fan of them), but also the
appropriate action to keep
proliferation of man made parks with rubber
themselves safe. So as children
floors, metal and plastic climbing frames,
get involved in using knives and cooking on
fences, gates and with it the idea that this is
a fire and looking for edible plants they begin
where children can play, while woods and fields
to realise what they
are somehow out of bounds.
can and cant do
safely. Consider
instead a child who
isnt introduced
to wild food by a
parent or other
responsible adult but
who sees someone
eating mushrooms
Michael and Lillie foraging
on television and
for and cutting up mushrooms,
who emulates that
shaggy parasols and a few
behaviour by eating
Even if knives and fire dont hold their
wood blewits
the first mushroom they see in the school field
interest for long there are always fascinating
or garden.
things to see when youre bush crafting; like
this privet hawk moth caterpillar that Lillie
has found - Photo Courtesy of Joseph Guy
Self-reliance and
confidence
I'm not talking about teaching children to survive on their own in

the woods, that is an entirely separate issue for another time, but
more the kind of quiet self-reliance and confidence that comes
from being involved in and empowered by being allowed to do
'grown up' things. From work I have done with groups of children
participating in Forest Schools I have noticed that even over a short
period of time (six weeks), childrens confidence and their comfort
There is so much that children can gain from being involved with
all aspects of bushcraft and so much they can achieve if we are
willing to supervise and encourage them. I think we need to give
children a chance, yes they might cut themselves occasionally
or get stung by stinging nettles but it will be worth it. Besides
everyone knows that showing off a few scars is part of growing up.
Please contact Geoffrey on: geoff@bushcrafteducation.co.uk
HOW TO
CREATE AMAZING
Autumnal Leaf Roses
FOR CHRISTMAS
Dont you just love the autumnal colours of leaves?

Here we have an amazing idea to create a beautiful gift and
preserve these colours for months to come.
Make an Amazing Autumnal Leaf Rose

These stunning roses can be used to create a unique, natural
centrepiece for the Christmas table, to add decoration to the top of
a Christmas gift, or you could make enough to create a vase of leaf
roses by adding them to long sticks. The choice is yours!
You will need:

Several leaves for each flower in various sizes (they should be
freshly fallen so they are still pliable)
Short Twigs or Long Sticks
Floral Tape
Scissors
How-to make them:
1. Begin with a smaller leaf. Placing the colourful side down, fold
the points in. Begin to roll the leaf from one side.
2. Take a second leaf and fold the center point down. Place
the first rolled leaf in the center, fold down the side points on the
second leaf and wrap both sides around the first.
3. Continue to add leaves, rotating the flower as you go to get
an even size. Use the leaves in order of increasing size with larger
leaves on the outside.
below set of image courtesy of Sisters Know Best
4. Once you have the desired size, wrap the stems tightly with
florist tape.
5. Use scissors to trim the stem ends.

6. Place a twig on the bottom and wrap with the florist tape to
create a long stem.
You can watch a video of how to make these at http://www.

waywardwanderers.com/fall-leaves-rose-video-tutorial/
The next time you go on an adventure, dont forget to collect your
leaves.
Tip: Keep the petals tucked in so that the

rose doesnt unravel.
How-to Preserve the Life of
Your Autumnal Leaf Roses
Glycerin
Glycerin can be used to preserve leaves. The results
will look more natural and you can even do this
to branches or twigs. To do this, cut off the tips
of the stems or twigs and crush the ends to
increase absorption. Use 1 part glycerin and
2 parts water. Heat to 37.8C by heating the
water to 80C so it is hot but not boiling. Make
sure to use plenty of the mixture for the stems
Good luck! Wed love to see

how you do so please post your
results on our Facebook page.
to absorb the glycerin. This process takes 2-6 weeks. You can tell its
complete by how the leaves will look. They will most likely turn a
greenish brown.
Tip: Check levels daily and replenish with water only.
Shellac
Use 1 part shellac and 2 parts methylated spirits. Dip the leaves in
to the mixture. Or use a paintbrush.
Hairspray
Spray all areas with
hairspray. Coat 3-4 times.
A big thank you to
Sisters Know Best
Blog for their great
tips and advice.
INTHENEWS
NEWS JUST IN Kupilka launches new range of colours
exclusive to Bushcraft & Survival Skills magazine this Christmas. (See p12)
GETTING REALLY WILD at

Would you believe it, if we told you that wolves are coming to The Bushcraft Show 2015? Well
they are and this will be a once in a lifetime opportunity to walk with free-running wolves.
Join a wolf hybrid pack, learn evolution, physiology, social structure, communication and
conservation of the wolf, intricacy of social ranking and the subtle art of canine communication
on a magical walk through the woodlands as part of
the pack.
We also have one of the worlds most renowned and
highly respected explorers, Colonel John BlashfordSnell OBE, former British Army Officer, explorer and
author coming along to share his adventures and
expedition advice on Sunday 24th
May 2015.
We have loads of new experts and activities to
announce so make sure you follow The Bushcraft
Show on Facebook and sign up to the newsletter
at www.thebushcraftshow.co.uk
BIG BUSHCRAFT
GIVEAWAY 2015
What has become an annual event now, the BIG Bushcraft

Giveaway commences on 1st December for the third year running
on Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazines Facebook page. The
BIG Bushcraft Giveaway is 25 days of advent fun as we giveaway
bushcraft kit, courses and experiences as you count down to
Christmas with us.
Its Your Last Chance...

You may have heard that we
are up to something!
We know that John Lofty
Wiseman has inspired and
affected numerous lives
both in his career in the
SAS, and as the author of
the SAS Survival Handbook.
Lofty has been involved with
many things and has been a
guest speaker each year at
The Bushcraft Show since it
started. If you are one of the
Last December just some of things we gave away included;

30 Light My Fire Meal kits, firesteels and magazines to a group
of Scouts, a handmade knife, a high power LED torch, the
opportunity to be trained as a bushcraft instructor (see p56), a
Craghopppers Jacket, a bushcraft course for two, along with many
other items of kit all for free.
To enter the BIG Bushcraft Giveaway, all you need to do is
keep a lookout on our Facebook page from the 1st December
until Christmas day as we announce each daily giveaway.
many people that Lofty has influenced or had an impact on, then
we need to hear from you. Please post in or email a letter detailing
how Lofty Wiseman has influenced your life. Please include any
photographs, newspaper clips or the like.
We cant tell you what we are up to here, but if you email
suprise4lofty@ bushcraftmagazine.com we can tell you all
about it, but we need you to keep the secret too!
COMPETITION WINNERS...
John Lofty Wiseman
Cook Wild Book T Soper

Knife Work With Groups Book Richard Dabell
Bear Grylls Craghoppers Waterproof Jacket Stanley Jones
New Series - Bushcraft

around the World
We know that we have subscribers to the paper version of

Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine around the world, throughout
Europe and the U.S.A. and in countries as far reaching as Australia,
Canada, New Zealand, Brazil, Dubai, South Korea and more. So
with this international readership, we are looking to commission a
representative from each country to write an article about bushcraft
in their country. We want to know about your climate and terrain,
interest in bushcraft, bushcraft communities and companies, leading
bushcraft figures and your aspirations for bushcraft in the future.
To represent your country in this new series for Bushcraft & Survival
Skills Magazine, please send an email to
editorial@bushcraftmagazine.com
The Rise of Bushcraft in the United

Kingdom on Film
Jason Ingamells has teamed up with the famous photographer Anders Brogaard, as well
as other key media technicians to form Wild Earth Productions Ltd. They offer remote
location production support for TV, advertising, moving images and still photography. As
well as logistical support they also have production capability within the team and have
started recording of a new television programme detailing the rise of bushcraft in the
United Kingdom and how people are using these skills in the modern age across all walks
of life. Jason says, "I am very excited by this new collaboration with a team of people with
a wealth of experience across a broad range of media outlets. This is a separate enterprise
to Woodland Ways and I am looking forward to yet another challenge. We have some
very skilled people on the team who are working tirelessly to produce a very high quality
production piece, which we aim to launch in 2015."
Wild Earth Productions are looking for instructors and practitioners who may want to tell
their story of bushcraft. Anders, Jason and the team can be contacted on
info@wildearth.productions
Castaway 2014
Reported by James Harris, Diverse Abilities Castaway Survivor
At the end of September I took part in this years Castaway
challenge in a mystery beach/woodland location off the South
Coast of England to raise funds for Diverse Abilities, Dorsets
disability charity that provides help and support to children and
adults with profound physical and/or learning disabilities and
their families, through a range of services.
This is the second year that I have taken part in the challenge and
although I knew what to expect there were still a few surprises
thrown in. Throughout the challenge there were various tasks to
complete including navigation and survival at sea.
We met up as a team in Bournemouth on the Friday evening and
sailed to the mystery location early on the Saturday morning by boats
kindly sponsored by Powerboat Training UK and Poole Boat Hire. The
team were a great bunch of people and everyone really put 100%
effort into the whole challenge. Throughout the whole time Sharon
Wells, Events Manager for the charity and a team of exceptional,
professional instructors were there to teach various aspects of
survival and to talk to. The atmosphere in the castaway camp was
amazing and there was a lot of laughing going on.
My personal highlight was when the lead instructor asked me if I
wanted to test myself and go off alone to build my own shelter away
from everyone else. I put my

heart and soul into completing
this task and enjoyed a
rather comfortable night in
the shelter I had built with
nothing other than what I had
foraged from the surrounding
woodland. For my efforts I
received the ultimate praise
later in the challenge when
I was asked to come back
next year to join the team of
instructors.
I absolutely loved doing the challenge again and I would recommend
it to anyone, whatever their experience in the outdoors. I cant wait
until next years challenge when I'll be there as an instructor.
The event raised in excess of 9000 and I felt really proud that we
all raised such an amazing amount of money for such a special
charity. The 2015 Castaway survival challenge runs from Saturday
19th Wednesday 23rd September. The charity does such good
work, which you can see for yourself at www.diverseabilitiesplus.
org and I would urge anyone who is interested in taking part to
contact Sharon.wells@diverseabilitiesplus.org.uk or call 01202
718266.
Do you have bushcraft news that you would like to share? Email news@bushcraftmagazine.com
CHANGE
ISAFOOT
The very first issue of Bushcraft & Survival Skills
Magazine came off the press in March 2006 and for
more than 8 years we have kept the cover price and UK
subscription price the same. During the last 8 years,
postage prices have increased significantly, printing
costs have increased, overheads have significantly
increased and the magazine industry is in decline.
journeys, or into the woods to refer to one of our How-To

articles and we feel that the new size would be more practical
to carry around for you to pop it in a pocket or your backpack.
Secondly and importantly, we want to continue to produce a
high quality magazine on quality paper, perfect bound with
a laminated cover for the durability of this useful resource
without increasing the cover price.
Whilst there may be cheaper printers out there, we are

dedicated to printing in the UK, using FSC paper from
sustainable sources and using vegetable based inks (soya and
boiled linseed oil) and do not want to compromise on this.
hat said, Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine is

still going strong and is available from WHSmiths,
independent newsagents, outdoor stores and digitally
for apple devices (on Newsstand), via an online reader
and on android and kindle devices. In a time where hard
copy magazine sales are again down year on year (-12%),
and, magazine sales in our sector (Camping, Climbing and
Walking) are again down year on year (-14%), our sales are
again up year on year by almost 5%!
Since we started in 2006 we have increased the magazines
pagination from 52 pages to 84, gloss laminated the cover for
additional durability and perfect bound the pages together
for durability instead of side staples that can easily tear
through the pages.
We have reached a point where, without some changes
we can no longer retain the cover price of 4.95 with such
significant overheads for a niche publication. Recently we
met with our account manager from our printers and asked
for his advice on how to continue to produce a high quality
publication at the same price. It was at this meeting that our
printer suggested changing the size of the magazine to 240
x 170mm, a similar size to National Geographic Magazine
(cover price 5.50). He said we would only need to turn on
our press three times and you could increase the number of
pages to 100 within the run, so thats 16 extra pages!
We thought that sounded like a great idea for a number of
reasons. Firstly, we know that many of you carry the magazine
around with you, taking them to Scout meetings, on trips and
Did you know that the price to post the magazine to Europe
costs the same as the cover price of the magazine and
the price to post the magazine to the rest of the world is
around one and half times as much as the cover price! The
new size would mean the overseas postage costs decrease
and would make subscription prices more affordable for
overseas subscribers. Whilst the digital version of Bushcraft
& Survival Skills Magazine is incredibly successful, we still
have subscribers of the paper version from all around the
world, throughout Europe and the U.S.A. and in countries as
far reaching as Australia, Canada, New Zealand, Brazil, Dubai,
South Korea and more.
A new size for a

New Year.
Take a look at the following page and see what the actual
size of the new design of Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine
for the same cover price would look like. We would like to
hear your thoughts by completing the following simple
five-question survey https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/
changeisafoot before 4th November 2014. Your opinion
counts and if readers are positive about the change we will
launch the new version of the magazine with the Jan/ Feb
2015 issue being the new size.
NEW
Different size and more pages what do you think?

Actual size of new version of Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine.
NEW
Different size and more pages what do you think?
for living
life outdoors
for living
life outdoors
& SURVIVAL SKILLS
& SURVIVAL SKILLS
Follow a Deer Stalker

DISCOVER THE
BUSHCRAFT
Follow
a Deer Stalker
SKILLS USED DAY-TO-DAY
DISCOVER THE BUSHCRAFT
SKILLS USED DAY-TO-DAY
TIM GENT
TIM GENT
HIGHLIGHTS THEVERSATILE
THEVERSATILE
SUPPORT ROLE HIGHLIGHTS
OF THECANOE
SUPPORT ROLE OF THECANOE
PREPPING
WHATS IT ALLPREPPING
ABOUT AND SHOULD I
WHATS IT ALL ABOUT AND SHOULD I

BECOME A PREPPER?
BECOME A PREPPER?
and much more...

and much more...
WINW!IN!
Comp
le
Comp
le
te
te GuDisasGteuide To
e r
DisastPrepid
aredTno
ess
e
r
Prepa
redne
ss
er Kit
Wint
t
f
a
r
c
h
s
Bu
inter
e
h
W
T
r
o
a
f
e
k
a
How-to M our
unity
m
m
rvival
o
u
C
S
!
y
d
r
l
o
r
f
Wo
Sheath
Aound the
inter Kit
W
t
f
a
r
e
c
f
i
h
n
s
K
ke The Bu ty
Winter
a
r
o
M
f
o
t
w
o
H
uni
m
m
e
o
in
C
z
a
r
g
o
urvival
a
f
!
S
M
h
d
t
l
t
r
a
f
o
e
a
h
r
W
c
S
h
e
a
s
Bu
Aound th
The UKs Firystour Knife
Issue 54 Jan/Feb 15
sep codes.indd 5
gazine
aft Ma
r
c
h
s
u
B
t
s
ir
F
he UKs
sep codes.indd 5
I s s u e 5 4 J3/12/09
a n / F e14:59:03
b 15
3/12/09 14:59:03
CHRISTMAS COOKING
by, Clarissa Dickson

Wright & Johnny Scott
CHRISTMAS
FAYRE
If you are feeling like something
different to turkey this year, or, if you
have been able to get out and bag
yourself a few pigeons, or a rabbit or two
then read on as Clarissa and Johnny have
some tasty recipes that you could try this
Christmas.
Partridges
stuffed with
chestnuts
Chestnuts always remind me of
partridges; they have the same
appealing shape and smallness.
I tend to buy mine ready peeled
but, if you have a tree and
children, the fresh ones will
repay the extra effort
50g (2oz) butter
2 shallots, chopped
4 partridges (livers reserved
if possible, otherwise use other
game bird livers or chicken
livers)
450g (1lb) peeled chestnuts
150ml (5fl oz) whole milk
barding bacon
a little stock
salt and pepper
Heat the butter in a frying pan
and soften the shallots in the
butter.
Cut the livers in half, add them
and cook a little longer. Add
the chestnuts and cook gently
for about 5 minutes. Remove to
a bowl and pour over the milk;
leave to stand and infuse for 30 minutes. Preheat the oven to
220C/425F/gas 7.
Either by hand or in a processor mash the chesnut mixture,
leaving the nuts quite textured so not pured but a bit
lumpy! Stuff the partridges with this mixture, truss and season
them and then bard them with bacon and cook for about 20
minutes.
Remove the bacon and return the partridges to brown the
breasts for another 10 minutes. There will be some stuffing left
over, so pure it finely and add to the pan juices, stir it in and
add a little stock to make a sauce.
Andalucian pigeons
The Spanish eat a lot of pigeon, and I think this is a very
good way of doing them. I have halved the oil, toasted the
bread and added capers which I always think add colour
and a bit of bite!
4 young pigeons
8 anchovy fillets
175ml (6fl oz) olive oil
8 small onions
300ml (10fl oz) dry white wine
2 cloves garlic
1 sprig of parsley
1 tablespoon capers
4 triangles of good sourdough bread
salt
Rub the pigeons with salt and stuff them each with 2
anchovies. Heat half the oil in a large pan. Add the pigeons and
cook over a low heat for 15 minutes, turning them until they
are lightly browned all over. Fry the onions separately in the
rest of the oil for about 5 minutes until golden all over. Then
add them to the pigeons together with the wine, garlic and
parsley. Simmer for 45 minutes until the sauce is reduced by
half and the pigeons are tender. Remove the parsley and garlic
and skim off any surface fat. Arrange the pigeons on a serving
dish, strain the sauce and pour it over the birds. Surround
them with the onions and sprinkle with capers. Serve with the
toasted sourdough bread.
CHRISTMAS COOKING
Elizabethan rabbit
A friend of mine when he was a boy used to sell a
thousand wild rabbits a week into Smithfield and
Leadenhall Markets. So please give rabbit a go and I
mean wild rabbit. When you kill a rabbit, paunch it at
once as it goes off quite quickly. A small rabbit feeds 2-3
people.
50g (2oz) bacon fat or oil
2 rabbits, jointed
1 tablespoon seasoned flour
3 sliced Jerusalem artichokes or uncooked artichoke
hearts
1 onion, finely chopped
50g (2oz) carrots, diced
300ml (1/2 pint) red wine
50g (2oz) raisins
1 apple, finely diced
faggot of herbs
rind of 1 orange
150ml (5fl oz) stock
110g (4oz) seedless grapes, halved
salt and pepper
Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/gas 4.
Heat the bacon fat or oil, dust the joints with flour and
fry until brown. Remove to a casserole. Saut the rest of
the vegetables and add to the rabbit. Pour in the wine,
bring to the boil and then reduce the heat. Add the
raisins, apple, herbs and orange rind.
Season. Pour over the stock, cover and cook in the oven
for 2 hours; add the grapes for the
last 30 minutes.
Find these recipes and many
more tasty ways of cooking
anything from rabbit to pike
and roe deer to Canada goose in
The Game Cookbook by Clarissa
Dickson Wright and Johnny Scott,
published by Kyle Books, priced
25. Photography by Gus Filgate.
LOFTY'S LIFE STORIES
TAKETHESTINGOUTOFIT
The world is full of creatures that bite or sting or do both.
The Far East is particularly bad for such creatures and I can
recall some painful memories.
here were four of us basha'd up in Borneo. The bashas

were hammocks suspended between two trees with a
poncho over the top. We formed a square so we could
see each other. Of a night we would read under the light of a
candle. This was better than using a torch as any light source
attracted every flying insect from miles around. Everything that
creeps, crawls, swims, or flies in the jungle either bites, scratches
or stings. When insects flew into the candle which was placed to
the side secured in a split stick, their wings would burn causing
them to fall to the ground. Whereas if you have a torch under
your chin they fell on you.
This particular night we had settled down, reading as usual. We
usually shared books passing on chapters that we had read.
Because weight was so critical, we often only had one book
between the four of us. This led to many confrontations as vital
pages went missing especially the concluding ones.
AUTHOR PROFILE:
John 'L O F T Y ' Wiseman

Lofty Wiseman served with 22 SAS for over 26 years,
rising to the rank of Sergeant-Major. He ran the SAS
selection course and the Survival School, ensuring
that the standards for the SAS remained high. After
he retired, he wrote The SAS Survival Handbook, first
published in 1986. Selling over 2 million copies, it has been translated
into 19 different languages and adapted for the Collins Pocket Guide and
iPhone App selling hundreds of thousands each year.
The next night he didnt read still complaining of the pain. I was
reading as usual when a hornet hovered over me so I batted it
with the book and lo and behold it landed on my mate stinging
him again on the chest. Amidst loud chunterings and curses he
upped sticks and moved location, which is a pretty drastic action
bearing in mind it was pitch black and the ground was covered in a
tangled mess of vines
creepers and trees.
Nothing moves at
night except insects
and stung squaddies.
In the morning we
located the nest
which was in a
nearby tree although
this particular
hornet only came
out at night. The
following night I got
stung on the wrist.
I immediately knew
why my mate had
made all the fuss. It
was like a white hot
rivet being driven
into my flesh and
exploding. It was
one of the most
painful things I
have experienced.
Needless to say we
all moved the next
morning.
The noise at night is amazing. Every insect large or small makes its
own music. It takes time to get used to this continual noise and
the mind filters it out, to the point where if it goes quiet it alerts
you. I was reading a spicy bit from a Wilbur Smith novel when an
ear shattering scream silenced the normal cacophony of sound,
followed by a few choice words and snivels. My buddy opposite
me had been stung by a night hornet and he was complaining that
it was worse than being shot. He cursed and moaned for hours,
but we just laughed at him, telling him not to be such a wimp. He
threatened to move location, saying, "you wait 'til you get stung".
The locals love wild honey and an old frail looking local climbed
the tree and smoked out the insects. He balanced precariously on
a crudely constructed ladder to do this and I thought one sting
and he would be dead, but he was lucky. Honey is very nutritious
and useful in the treatment of wounds. By covering the wound in
honey it draws moisture and prevents infection. Bacteria can only
grow in a two percent or more solution of moisture and honey
prevents this. It also keeps for a long time so makes an excellent
survival ration. It will crystallise but is still good to eat. The locals
realise this and will risk a lot to gather this important food.
Just after this incident our Squadron Commander paid us a visit.

He carried the first ArmaLite rifle on trial with the British Army. We
were told that because of the high velocity of this weapon, any
wound, however small, would result in a massive fluid surge in the
body that would be fatal. Such were the rumours surrounding this
weapon that we were envious. He only had limited ammunition
so agreed to give a demonstration of its accuracy with a single
shot. He selected a balled up mass of twigs in a tree about 40
yards away and took aim. We disappeared rapidly as the target
he selected was
a hornets nest.
He fired one shot
before turning to his
expected audience
smiling smugly at
his accuracy, but we
were absent. The next
instant the precious
weapon was hurled
skywards before he
set off sprinting to the
river. Hornets attack
in droves and strike
for the eyes. They
have been known to
kill animals. The scent
from a dead hornet
encourages them
to do this and they
were very upset that
their nest had been
violated. By the time
the boss had reached
the river his face
was unrecognisable.
To say we were
in hysterics is an
understatement. It
took hours to calm
him down and treat
the swellings before
reminding him that
he had to retrieve his
precious weapon.
Not only was the
performance of the
ArmaLite a vast exaggeration, the claim that it didnt need cleaning
was a myth. The Americans found this out to their cost suffering
many stoppages and malfunctions in Vietnam caused by bad
maintenance. The pain of the hornet sting is no myth however and
I still shudder to think of it fifty years later.
Bees, wasps, and hornet stings all deliver a powerful alkaline which
is very painful. They are best treated with vinegar or baking soda
which are mild acids. Dont use both mixed together as they can
cancel out their effect. Wasps and hornets can retract their sting
and strike several times, while the bees sting remains in the bite.
Dont squeeze this to remove as it can inject more toxin. Gently
scrape it to the side. Wash all bite sites with clean water and ice
will help relieve the pain. Toothpaste can help and if you are ever
attacked by a swarm of bees, wasps, or hornets cover the head and
get out the area. Bananas give off a similar scent as the queen bee,
and certain hair sprays attract their attention. If in danger ditch the
fruit or give it to your other half if youre not talking.
Ants are particularly aggressive when disturbed, they can quickly
cover the body inflicting painful bites. The jungle is full of ants of all
different varieties. You have to be careful where you sit and keep all
clothing and equipment off the ground. Their bite contains formic
acid and some primitive tribes use ant bites to fight a fever. Many
a time I had to strip
off rapidly to get
rid of an invasion of
ants that covered
my body. You
cant get them off
quick enough and
the accumulation
of bites can lead
to dizziness. Its
amusing to see
the guy in front
suddenly break
into a dance before
shedding his
clothes.
When lying in an
ambush position
where you have to
remain still, theres
nothing worse than
to be invaded by
ants. We used to
soak our clothing
in insect repellent,
but there was
always the odd
creature that
was adventurous
and immune to
the repellent. Its
when you are
lying quietly that
you see so much
wildlife. Everything
comes out to play
and they all want
a sample of your flesh and blood. Although its a nuisance we
must remember that we are the visitors and we are invading their
territory.
If you do get something nasty crawling across your flesh dont
panic. Turn away from any people present and brush off the creepy
crawly in the direction it is going. A lot of insects have coarse hairs
which sweep backwards. If you brush them the wrong way these
hairs can dig in the flesh and cause a painful rash. If you dont turn
away from the group, someone else will receive the unwanted
guest who will be angry by now.
So keep your eyes open and mind where you sit. Keep all of
your kit off the ground and apply insect repellent. And watch
out for hornets!
PROTECTION
MAKING A TEMPORARY
BIVVY BAG
AUTHOR PROFILE:
It was way back in the 60s having attended one of my fathers

superb survival courses that a basic aspect for survival was
engraved permanently in my memory. I remember being
taught that in any real survival situation, everything around
you had to have multiple uses and that nothing was to be
wasted. As a consequence and being lucky enough to be
involved in tracking and survival courses worldwide, I now
realise how true that instruction was.
o illustrate this point I intend to teach you a simple technique

used for making a temporary sleeping bed, commonly
referred to as a doss bag, from the colloquial term for
sleeping rough. Using only grass, sticks and cordage this is easy
enough for the whole family to learn and more importantly, it
actually works and who knows, it may help save your life. As
gathering the materials involves the use of knives always take care
and when collecting long grass use gloves or clumps of grass as
improvised gloves to keep safe. It goes without saying that you
should never trespass to collect the components and obviously
use land only with permission. While I will be showing you how
to make a doss bag from grass and sticks you can adapt this using
whatever is to hand, so you could use bamboo and banana leaves,
or mosses and bramble stems for instance.
From my last article on making grass cordage in issue 52 of
Bushcraft & Survival Skills magazine, hopefully you have now
grasped (forgive the pun) exactly how to quickly create cordage,
as we will be using this skill to construct the doss bag. If not please
go out and order the last issue or borrow it from a friend, (or even
better ask them how to do it).
The key components for the doss bag are normally easy to
find and are as follows:
Two or three 5 foot (1.5m) tracking sticks or poles (roughly
the same diameter as a walking stick)
6 or 7, 30cm stakes (roughly the same diameter as a walking
stick)
About two dustbin liners of grass or vegetative matter,
leaves etc. (as long as possible)
Perry McGee
Son of the late Eddie McGee, Perry is no
stranger to the wilds. With over 40 years experience in survival training and
leadership, he has endured survival training and situations in all types of
terrain and climates, gaining knowledge of survival scenarios all over the
world. Perry loves helping others learn these skills and willingly assists others
where possible. Perry is founder of the National Tracking School and author
of a number of books including The Tracking Handbook.
the doss bag it is initially secured to the ground, so choose your

site carefully. There is an old military saying any fool can be
uncomfortable, so take a bit of time and effort to clear the area,
it will be worth it. Oh, and dont choose ground that is too wet as
this will soak into the doss bag. Roughly measure the height and
width of the person who will be using the doss bag and use small
stones or sticks to mark their outline on the ground. Work carefully,
it is much better to tidy up as you go along than to construct in
undisciplined mayhem.
As you are travelling identify areas where long clean vegetative
matter grows on your route, as this saves time, especially if you
are intending to sleep or rest nearby. Just before you collect your
grass, make some noise to scare off any wildlife or insects. Then
try and select as long lengths as possible and carry them to the
area you have prepared. Lay out the vegetative matter into handsized bundles ready for use. One tip is to create a pyramid fashion
or stack the bundles on top of each other for ease and speed of
weaving (see later).
If using natural cordage, start by creating as many thin long
lengths as you can, to begin with you will need approximately
30 - 40 lengths of this strong cordage, with each piece being
approximately two arms length. This may take time and effort and
necessitate the use of other relevant vegetative matter such as
nettles, brambles etc. If you are improvising with manufactured
equipment, then you will need the same number of strong
cordage pieces cut to roughly the same length.
Lots of thin strong cordage, approximately 30 to 40 lengths

I always recommend that you use what is growing in your local
area to create your outdoor survival equipment, but if this is not
possible then improvise by using ever useful parachute cord,
strong string or wire. If you are to using manufactured equipment
then a bonus is that after use you can dismantle it and use it again
whereas natural cordage tends not to last the test of time.
Allow yourself plenty of daylight to collect all the materials safely
and bring them to the area where you are to create the doss bag.
This will eradicate the necessity for repetitive and time costly
searching and stumbling around in the dark and will increase the
speed at which you get out of the cold. When you are constructing
framework. Then place the second length of pole or tracking stick

parallel to the framework facing the rail of the first pole following
the prepared outline. You can choose to make a double doss bag,
which then uses the third pole.
Now attach both poles together by connecting them with a series
of lines of cordage stretching tightly from one pole to the next
and set at equal distances. As a guide line use the vertical stakes
for width. If you intend to move the doss bag after use, ensure
that the lines are attached to the horizontal poles. If you are happy
to stay in that location use a simple half hitch or noose knot to
tighten up on the upper section of the vertical stake.
The next stage is to create the stakes with a knife or blade and
then take the 5 6 small stakes and using a hammer or a log, drive
them into the prepared ground at a distance of approximately an
adult sized boot width between each stake. Ensure that the stakes
are in a straight line and follow the outline you prepared earlier.
Check that each stake is well driven in and secure and that there is
sufficient stake above ground to tie cordage onto.
Attach one length of the longer poles or tracking sticks to only one
side of the stakes, tying it horizontally across the inserted stakes
with your cordage, using a square lashing or binding to secure.
Ensure that the knot used is tight, but that it can easily be undone
if required.
Next ensure that each and every vertical stake is fastened to
the horizontal pole, securely forming a type of small fence rail
To begin to create one side of the doss bag, sit or kneel with the
horizontal poles or sticks facing you and then starting at either the
left or right hand corner nearest you begin to weave handfuls of
PROTECTION
grass or suitable vegetative foliage. Either twist it tightly or leave

it loose, whilst inserting and layering it between the cordage lines
in an over then under fashion, ensuring that at least four of the
lines have been weaved. Continue in this manner, weaving and
occasionally lifting the unfastened pole whilst patting down the
grass etc. before you insert the next lot. The weave will need a
great deal of vegetation and the tighter the weave is the better the
doss bag will protect you.
Once the entire framework is carefully and tightly packed and
woven with grasses and vegetation you will be able to lift and
lower it whilst it is still
attached (as if opening
and closing a book).
While you can choose
to remove the doss bag
from the framework
for use in another
location, it is usual to
use it in situ. As you
lift the doss bag, the
ground underneath is
where the user will rest
or sleep, with the doss
bag on its hinge as a
blanket-like covering.
The next process is to
insulate this underneath
area allowing the
user protection from
rough ground, but
more importantly
from the cold. If you only have vegetation to hand you can start
by covering the area with a thin layer of wooden sticks or larger
leaves or nettles etc. and then covering these by laying at least 30
cm of thick vegetation. When you have your layer of insulation

assembled, spend time sorting it to make it as comfortable as
possible, as once you lie on it the vegetation will compress and it
will be difficult to move bits around.
You can improvise the poles by using tracking sticks, canoe
paddles, tent poles, walking sticks or climbing equipment.
If you have sufficient materials and time, you can create another
sleeve to the doss bag by simply extending in an identical manner.
You can add this to either the existing unattached pole or to the
centre pole on the stakes.
Adding more sections or
sides creates many more
useful connotations.
When detached from the
secured stakes you can
add more cordage to
essentially create a form
of the conventional bivvy
or fold over sleeping bag
which can be opened and
closed or tied back and
secured.
So there you have
it, how to create a
simple temporary or
permanent resting bed
from vegetation and
some sticks, with plenty
of variations to be
getting on with. So have a go and let us know how you get on
(with any photos) info@bushcraftmagazine.com. Best wishes
and have fun out there.
Serious power.
Clean water.
On any stove.
KETTLE CHARGE.
FOR STOCKISTS CONTACT:

T: 01539 721032
www.whitbyandco.co.uk/biolite
BUSHCRAFT ON A BUDGET
BUDGET
CHRISTMAS
GIFTS
THE KIDS CAN MAKE
AUTHOR PROFILE:
Ian Nairn
'Make do and Mend' is Ian's Philosophy. He is a dab

hand at all things creative, and would be a match
for any skilled seamstress! His innovative ideas can
save you pounds, showing you how to make kit
from things that you might find lying around. He
also has a long-standing interest in and extensive
knowledge of woodcraft and green woodworking,
which, combined with his other skills, makes for some great
money-saving tips!
Hello again and welcome to another Bushcraft on a Budget

article. In this issue I am being super budget, as I am using up
leftovers from my previous articles and other jobs that I have
done. Also I wanted this to be a very simple article so that
even very young bushcrafters could get involved and have a
go to make something a bit special for Christmas. With this
in mind I have chosen two
very simple tasks that
can have great results
and make special gifts for
someone this Christmas.
n a few previous articles I

have shown you various
leather work tasks, when
you finish doing these you
are always left a few scraps of
leather that are not really big
enough to make anything
with but too big to throw
away (I always hold on to
them, just in case). In this first
section I wanted to show
you how you can turn these little scraps into very nice
personalised gifts for friends and family or decorations for
your tree.
We are quite simply going to cut out shapes from these scraps
to make either key rings, tree decorations, necklace pendants or
other little trinkets you wish to give. A really easy way to do this is
to use cookie cutters, these are available in all sorts of shapes and
sizes. Place these onto the scraps of leather and simply draw round
them and cut out the shape.
This bit is strictly for the young bushcrafters to read, mums & dads
dont read this bit! If your mum or
dad have a favourite tree, how about
collecting a leaf from this tree and
draw round it to cut out a leaf for them,
or you could draw a letter for them
such as their initial as I have done with
the letter B and the Oak leaf in the
photos.
Younger bushcrafters may need the
help of an adult here to cut the leather,
then punch a hole in for either a key
ring loop, necklace ring or hook to
hang on the tree. Stars are great for
hanging from the tree, here I made a
heart shaped key ring fob for Kara and
I used a pyrography pen to put our
wedding date on. You can decorate

your gift using a pyrography
pen or a soldering iron, or even
the heated tip of an old small
screwdriver. Younger bushcrafters
may want to draw a design or
picture on using pens which is
fine, but try to use pens that the
ink wont bleed out on
the leather. Test the pens
on an even smaller scrap biros usually work well.
Once finished you can
rub over a bit of dubbing
just to seal the leather
and make your items a
bit shinier. I hope you like
this idea and that you get
all the young members
of the family involved
to make that special
handmade leather
gift for a really special
Christmas treat.
The next idea I wanted to show you may
be a little more tricky, but it is still aimed at
getting the young bushcrafters involved in
making something special that they can be
proud of year after year. Here I am going
to use old electrical wiring, well the inner
copper core.
Now I know
there are lots
of you out
there that are
extremely crafty
and skilled and
I would really
appreciate seeing
some of the special
gifts you guys and
girls have made. So
send in your photos
and lets see what you

have done. I will speak
to Simon and see if we cant get a prize for
the best one.
The other thing I wanted to say before I sign
off at the end of another year is THANK YOU!
Thank you to all of you that have given me
feedback and comments over this last year
and previous years. It is great meeting you
at shows and events and not only hearing
how much you enjoy my articles, but also
seeing stuff that I have inspired you to
make. It really means a lot to me to know
I inspire you and that you love having a
go at the Budget Articles. If you want me
to have a go at any articles in particular
send in your suggestions and I will see
what I can do.
I would like to wish each and every one
of you a very Merry Christmas and a
Happy New Year.
All the very best, Ian (The Budget
Bushcrafter).
P.S. Christmas can be done on a
budget too, but what the heck, even I
will splash out a little bit ;-)
I had some electrical wire that I had stripped the plastic outer off
to get at the copper core, this wire is good for all sorts of tasks.
Ive made rabbit snares with it, plant holders and even copper
bracelets. So I thought why not have a go at bending it into shapes
for Christmas decorations for the tree. It really is as simple as that.
Again younger members may need some adult supervision or help
but let them have a go as it is easy to form shapes with the wire.
I have made a star, a Christmas tree, a Snowman (honest thats
what its supposed to be) and a globe. Simply twist and bend the
wire into the shapes you want. You may need some pliers to help
and they come in handy when twisting the wire at the end to
keep it all together, but most work can be done with your hands.
For circles, try twisting the wire round a tin or jar, just make sure
it doesnt have a lip that you wont be able to get it over after
twisting it tight. So have fun and get twisting and bending.
magazine 35
BUSHCRAFT
BUSHCRAFT&&survival
survivalskills
skillsmagazine
35
ADVANCED BUSHCRAFT
10 BUSHCRAFT & SURVIVAL

SKILLS
TO TRY THIS WINTER
Winter is a time when many people semi-hibernate,

spending much less time outdoors than in the summer.
Im not sure why, as I love experiencing all the seasons. I
know many readers of this magazine feel the same way.
Theres nothing quite like a walk in the woods, or across
the fields on a cold crisp winters day, where every
breath hangs visibly in the air.
There are plenty of bushcraft and survival skills you can
be practising during the winter months too.
Heres 10 suggestions to get you started
1. Fire Lighting
Whatever your level of
competency in lighting fires,
A fire
established
or whatever method you are
with wood
contemplating from hand drill
from a dead,
to matches - its harder in the
standing tree,
cold and damp of winter than it
split out with
is in the warm, dry conditions of
an axe
summer. Winter is also when a
fire makes more of a difference
to your wellbeing. A good fire
warms you through and removes
moisture from your clothes. It
gives you light to work by on
those long, dark evenings.
Get out and apply fire skills you
already know from summertime trips to the woods. Then look
to extend what you can do perfect it in the winter and by the
time summer comes around, itll be a doddle. In particular, reduce
your reliance on man-made materials. Force yourself not to use
AUTHOR PROFILE:
Paul Kirtley
Owner and Chief Instructor of Frontier Bushcraft.

Paul, also a Mountain Leader was previously
Course Director at Woodlore. He spent 10 years
studying and training under the guidance of
world-renowned bushcraft expert Ray Mears, first
as a student on his courses, then as an employee.
Paul is one of only a few people who have been
recognised by Ray Mears as a bushcraft instructor,
being awarded the celebrated antler-handled
Woodlore instructor's knife.
cotton wool, Vaseline, BBQ

fire-starters, hexamine blocks
or the like. Concentrate on
using only natural materials for
every component of the fire lay,
including tinder.
Even if you are used to using
only natural tinder in the
summer, it will be in a different
condition in winter and your
favourites may not be available
at all. Focus on sourcing dry
kindling and dead, dry standing
wood (harder in winter when
there are no leaves). Going out
in winter and applying what
works in summer forces you to refocus and refine your skills so they
work without fail all year round. Winter is the time to push your fire
lighting skills on to the next level.
2. Animal Tracking
On cold, dark nights
fire is important
for warmth and
illumination. Make
sure you have the
skills to always
achieve one
While some bushcraft skills such as establishing a fire are harder in

the winter, if there is snow on the ground animal tracking is easier.
Snow shows up so much more detail than is available across grass
or leaf litter for example. Even the seasoned tracker can't help
but be enthralled by the range of animal activity writ large in the
woods and fields.
Winter conditions are a great time to start animal tracking. On
snow the animal that left the tracks is easier to identify and you can
become familiar with whole footprints, whereas at other times of
the year you may only see a partial print.
When looking at animal tracks on snow, its also much easier to

piece together the whole track. While in summer you may come
across some nice clear prints of a fox or a badger on the soft mud
of a woodland track, when they then diverge from the track and
head off across leaf litter its harder for the beginner to form a track
picture. On snow the whole track is captured and you can build the
track picture much more easily.
Because the track picture is clearer, you can observe the evidence
of certain activities and behaviours which would be much harder to
decipher or which you would miss altogether. Even an experienced
tracker will be able to glean much more information in snowy
circumstances.
Every move of an
arctic fox hunting
for lemmings is
written on the
snow here in
the Norwegian
mountains
Closer to home,
the clear prints of
a domestic cat on
the windowsill of a
derelict rural building
in County Durham
3. Building A Snow Shelter

You don't have to be in the arctic or in the mountains to have
enough snow to build a shelter from it. I have fond memories of
building snow shelters when I was a teenager in the north east of
England.We had several winters when there were large dumps of
snow and we took advantage of it, getting out into the fields and
digging into the snow where it had drifted up against walls.
Since then Ive made many trips to snowy parts of the world and
have built and used snow shelters from the Scottish Highlands, to
the Norwegian mountains, to the Arctic northern forest.
There are basically two types of snow shelter you can build.
The first is where you cut blocks of compacted, transformed snow
and use them for construction. The classic form which everyone
knows is the igloo, but there are other forms too, such as digging
a trench into the snow then using cut blocks to create an angled
roof over the trench in an inverted V-shape. The type of snow you
need for blocks tends to occur where the snow is blown around
by the wind, smashing

the delicate arms
from the snow crystals
and transforming
the snowpack into a
solid, more compact
mass. Its sometimes
Using a special device
referred to as wind slab.
to create snow blocks
These days you can
from powdery snow
also buy a device that
compacts fluffy snow to
create blocks, but the
efficiency of the device
is very dependent on temperature.
The second main type of snow shelter is where you dig into an
As the light fades, I

finish digging out a
one-man quinzhee in
the north of Sweden
existing pile of snow. This snow can have accumulated naturally,

through drifting into a hollow or consolidating on a slope.
Alternatively, you can create your own pile of snow by digging it
up into a mound, compacting and transforming it by trampling it,
followed by digging out the centre once the mound has frozen
the classic quinzhee.
More than two

metres down, I
am about to dig
horizontally to
create the chamber
of this snow shelter
in Norway. Even
just getting into this
trench was noticeably
warmer as we were
immediately out of
the wind
Snow shelters shouldnt be seen only as an emergency survival

shelter, although they are very good for this. You can plan to use a
snow shelter as part of your camping strategy on a journey. They
are much more weather-proof than a mountain tent for example.
They are quieter and more robust in windy conditions. They are
also surprisingly warm. Air trapped in the snow means these
shelters are well insulated from perilously low temperatures and
wind chill outside. You can easily achieve an indoor temperature of
just below freezing from only body warmth and a candle, when it is
thirty degrees below outside.
In a winter environment, a knowledge of snow shelters is
useful and an essential survival skill for dangerously cold winter
ADVANCED BUSHCRAFT
environments. They can also be a fun adventure, even in your back

garden. If you get the chance this winter, Id heartily recommend
you try sleeping out in the snow.
Polynesian islanders in the South Pacific were famed for their

ability to navigate large distances at sea and accurately sail from
island to island, using their knowledge of the stars.
4. Go For A Night Hike and

Improve Your Navigation
Improving your own knowledge of the heavens, the relative

positions of stars and how they move
over the course of the night, (as well as
the seasons), will significantly improve
However closely you
your natural navigation abilities.
look, there is always
more to see. This is a
view of the Milky Way
While the winter sky is somewhat
from an area of boreal
different to the summer sky, it is dark
forest in Manitoba,
for many more hours in winter than it
Canada where
is in summer, so its a great opportunity
there was zero light
to get out and study the stars in more
pollution
detail.
In winter the days are short and the nights

are dark and long.Compared to the long days
of summer, it can be hard to fit much in the
way of outdoor activities into the few hours of
winter daylight. It is, however, a fantastic time
of year to practise skills which benefit from the
cover of darkness.One good piece of advice
I received before I did my Mountain Leader
Award several years ago was to avoid doing
the assessment in the middle of summer.The
reasoning was straightforward - it gets dark
late and you end up undertaking the night
navigation exercises at 2am, which makes you
very tired the next day.
Even if you have no intention of moving
around at night, night navigation exercises are
very valuable. I use night navigation on courses
as a great training aid.With a half-decent
head-torch at night, your range of visibility is
still very low compared to full daylight.This
means you have to take more notice of
small features and concentrate on keeping
track of exactly where you are.This is similar
to navigating in dense woodland, as well
as in the hills when weather conditions
deteriorate. Night navigation sharpens up
your map and compass skills no end and
these can be applied in more challenging
situations which may occur even during
daylight hours.
Night navigation is also a lot of fun. It's
exhilarating to be out in the dark, finding
your way.Many animals are crepuscular or
nocturnal. Staying out as it gets dark you'll
see things those who head home at
dusk never see. Plus sound travels
further in cold damp, air and you'll
pick up on faint sounds of nature
you might miss at warmer times of
the year.The flip side is when snow
is on the ground; its easier to see
where you are going because of the
reflected light, but snow dampens all
sound dramatically.
Studying the sky is interesting in its own right. Its a source of great
beauty. Learning the constellations, asterisms and stars is also
useful.
6. Winter Tree
Identification
Learn to recognise
buds for winter tree ID
Identifying needled
trees often requires
you to take in more
subtle characteristics
than broad-leaved
trees. Winter is a good
time to study them
5. Learn New
Constellations
Bushcraft centres on the study of nature. The stars in the heavens
are part of nature, even if they are less tangible than the ground
beneath our feet or the trees, plants and animals that surround us
in the great outdoors.
Identifying deciduous trees in winter

can be challenging.This challenge is
worthwhile, however, as it not only
improves your ability to identify useful
resources in the colder months
of the year, it also improves your
identification skills year-round. Most of
the features you will have to rely on for
identification in winter are present in
the spring, summer and autumn too.
It's just that we tend to get lazy and
look at leaves or flowers or fruit for ID
purposes and ignore other, smaller
details, such as the hairiness of the
shoots of hazel, for example.
Identifying evergreens tends to be

more challenging than deciduous
trees despite the presence of leaves all
year. The leaves of evergreens often
take the form of needles. There
are many similarities between the
various needled species and the
differences can be subtle. There are
also a lot of them, particularly with
so many introduced species from
around the world. But again, at a
time of year when the deciduous
trees have lost their leaves and
many ground cover plants have
died right back, why not spend
some of your time in the winter
months focussing on improving
your identification of needled trees? When spring arrives you can
then concentrate on species that are coming into leaf or emerging
from the ground.
Even though the woods and hedgerows can seem dormant in
winter, there is still much to study and in fact there is benefit

in concentrating on what is visible, without the abundance of
summer crowding out the details.
7. Make A Lantern or Torch

Did I already mention its darker and dark for longer in winter than
it is in summer? Im emphasising the point as you will undoubtedly
be in camp for longer in winter.
You will quite possibly want to fill
your hours there with something
constructive. Modern headlamps
are great for illumination, but
youll end up using lots more
batteries while camping in winter
than you do in summer. This is
not only expensive, but also not
fantastic for the environment.
The alternative is to look for
ways you can provide light for
your camp which dont rely on
batteries. You can make a simple
candle holder using a stick and
a loop of birch bark as has been
featured in this magazine before
(issue ??)
You can also use your candle
stubs to create a larger candle
by melting them into a small tin
can and placing a wick into the
wax before it sets. This is similar
to the large garden candles you
can buy and is a way of recycling
materials you may well have in
camp, but would otherwise not
have a use for.
You can also use natural
materials such as pine resin
or birch bark to make torches
entirely from natural materials
found in the forest. These dont
always burn for very long but
they do burn surprisingly brightly.
compacted snow, then apply heat to the bottom of the pan, what
typically happens is that the snow in contact with the base of the
pan melts, creating water. The volume of this water is less than
the volume of snow, due to the amount of air trapped within the
snow. This can cause a gap between the water and the snow above
it. Also, as it melts out of the snow, this small amount of water can
soak up into the snow above, which acts like blotting paper. The
resultant air gap between the base of the pan and the snow above
both insulates the snow from the heat as well as allowing the base
of the pan to become very hot.
This can cause a hole to be
burned into the base, if the pan
is made of aluminium.
This doesnt always happen
mind you. The snow can melt
then the snow above drops to
take its place and slowly but
surely it all melts. The volume
of water you get is quite low in
most cases though, so be sure
to keep adding snow once you
have some water in the pot.
The water generator bag is another variation on melting

snow next to a fire and works well when you have no
compacted snow. Fill a mesh bag or spare piece of clothing
with powdery snow, suspend it next to the fire and let it melt
by the radiant heat. Once it starts dripping, put a cup or
other container under the drips
The inside of a hut high in the mountains of southern

Norway. Note on top of the stove in the centre of the photo
is a large pot specifically for melting snow, it even has a tap
at the bottom
8. Melt Snow For

Drinking Water
Everyone knows that snow is
made of water. Yet there is quite
a lot of confusion about how to
best access it. Some people say
you can melt snow in a pan, while others
recommend not doing this as it burns a
hole in the bottom of the pan.
Both are potentially correct. If you fill a
pan with snow, particularly if it is not very
A tin-can
candle using
wax from
leftover
candle stubs
and an
improvised
wick
This brings me to the better

way of melting snow in a pan,
either add water to start with if
you have access to some, heat
it up, then add snow gradually.
Alternatively, start with a
small amount of snow, melt
it quickly then keep adding
small amounts so that it melts
immediately until you have
enough water to add larger
quantities of snow at a time.
This is much more efficient than
starting with a pan full of snow.
While the above seems really
simple, its worth having a go as
youll only learn from experience
how much of particular types
of snow to use. Snow is very
variable. Sometimes its light,
fluffy and dry. Other times its
heavy, dense and wet.
If you have access to compacted

snow, which you can remove in
blocks or chunks around the size
of a melon, then you could also
have a go at what is sometimes
called a Finnish Marshmallow.
Take a stick and insert it into the
snow or ground near to your
fire, angled like a simple pot
hanger, so that you can impale
the snow block on the end. The
block should not be directly
over the fire, but should receive
a good amount of heat from it.
After a while (and it is quite a
while since at first the water generated soaks up into the block),
ADVANCED BUSHCRAFT
the block of snow will start to drip. Place a cup or other container
under the drips and collect your water this way. The beauty of this
technique is that it works when you dont have a metal container
to put directly over the fire.
9. Sleep Next To A Fire

Sleeping next to a fire is a
wonderful experience if you
get it right. Or it can be cold,
smoky and miserable if you
dont. You need plenty of
dry firewood that is going to
burn well, not smoke. You will
need more firewood than you
think. It is commonplace for
people to underestimate just
how much fuel is needed.
Your fire will be more efficient
if it is part of a shelter,
which will typically be of
the enclosed group shelter
type, or an open fronted oneperson design, either lean-to
or free-standing. As described
in a previous article in issue
@ of this magazine, I have
slept out in lean-to shelters
with a long log fire and no
sleeping equipment at low
temperatures. As long as you
have plenty of fuel and in
this case it needs to be large
fuel you will stay warm all
night.
Sleeping next to a fire with no
sleeping kit in the arctic might
be an extreme first step,
though. If you have not had
much experience in shelter
building or deriving warmth
from a fire in this way, start
with smaller steps and you
can work up to the level of
competence you need.
With a big enough fire

you can survive the
night at 30 below
A raised log bed with

dry twig mattress
provides a huge
thermal advantage
over lying directly on
the ground
Good axe skills mean

you can produce
plenty of firewood
You can start by bivvying

close to a fire, using a sleeping
mat, bivvy bag and sleeping bag, just as you would under a tarp.
But beware certain types of wood particularly sweet chestnut
and pine as they spit a fair amount. This could throw a small, hot
ember onto your bivvy bag, damaging it or even the sleeping bag
below. So avoid these fuels if possible.
An additional consideration is that you wont get much benefit
from lying parallel to a fire if you are within a well-insulated sleep
system. Just as the sleeping kit insulates you from the cold, so it
insulates you from the heat of the fire. If you are in a sleeping bag
- unless the bag itself is woefully inadequate for the conditions it
is much better to lay head towards the fire. Youll feel more benefit
and you wont need quite such a large fire, or as much fuel as
keeping a parallel fire going all night.
If you want a little more of a challenge, try discarding the sleeping

bag and bivvy bag, utilising an old wool blanket instead. This is
quite a traditional frontier way of sleeping by a fire, often depicted
in Westerns. Perhaps the best known examples are the Hudsons
Bay Company point blankets and both old and modern versions
of these are very expensive nowadays. You can pick up army
surplus wool blankets for only a few pounds, however. If you are
concerned about being too cold, double up and use two blankets.
In my experience two woollen blankets
will also keep you dry if it rains, whereas
youll get damp with only one.
A final consideration about sleeping
out next to a fire whether in the open
or within a shelter - is that once you
are using only a blanket or no sleeping
kit at all, you need to create some sort
of bed beneath you. Modern sleeping
mats are worth more than their weight
in gold. Until you have tried to sleep
on the ground without one, you dont
fully appreciate how effective they are.
Without one you lose a great deal of
heat into the ground via conduction.
Much of your body is in contact with
a cold, possibly damp surface and the
clothing in between is also compressed,
reducing its insulating properties. To
reduce this heat loss you need to create
a bed. The best type for use next to
a fire is raised up somewhat so that
warmth can get under the bed as well.
Sleeping next to a fire in the open in
winter without sleeping kit might be
daunting, but take it in progressive
steps, learn from your experiences
and best of all, invite some friends
to take part so you can share the
experience. Once you get it right, its a
very liberating experience. You remove
another fear that many people have
regarding the outdoors. Spending a
night out in the woods, even in winter,
is not as daunting as it might first seem.
10. Work On Your

Axe Skills
You need plenty of firewood in winter. Plenty. Whether you are
in a heated tent or sleeping out near a fire, you'll use the fire for
warmth rather than just boiling water and cooking your food, as
you do in warmer months. Plus you'll spend more time around the
campfire or in your tent due to the short days and long nights.
Consequently you'll need more firewood at a time of year when
more of the materials in the forest are damp/cold. Being able to
efficiently process dead, dry standing wood into useable firewood
of various sizes, from small splints for kindling through to medium
size split wood for boiling billy cans of water to larger fuel for
warmth is an important winter woodcraft and camping skill. Rather
than using inadequate fuel, pack your axe and use your winter
camp outs as the perfect opportunity to sharpen up essential axe
skills by making them part and parcel of what you do.
Join the UKs largest provider of intermediate to

advanced Bushcraft Courses
Wo o d l a n d Ways i s t h e l a rg e s t p rov i d e r o f B u s h c ra f t
& S u r v i va l Co u r s e s i n t h e U K , w i t h i n d u s t r y
l e a d i n g i n s t ru c to r s, i n c l u d i n g Ja s o n I n g a m e l l s,
Keva n Pa l m e r, Ad a m Lo g a n a n d m o re yo u k n ow
t h at yo u r co u r s e w i l l b e o f t h e h i g h e s t q u a l i t y.
Co u r s e s o p e rate i n o u r m a ny ce nt re s t h ro u g h o u t
t h e U K , we a l s o o p e rate co m p l e te l y u n i q u e
ove r s e a s ex p e d i t i o n s.
We h ave a va s t ra n g e o f co u r s e s to o n u m e ro u s to
m e nt i o n , i n c l u d i n g o u r exc l u s i ve 2 ye a r co u r s e,
Th e Wo o d l a n d Waye r.
I n 2 0 1 2 Wo o d l a n d Ways a l s o o p e n e d t h e U K s f i r s t
Wo rl d o f B u s h c ra f t ex p e r i e n ce s to re, b a s e d i n B e d fo rd. A
co m p l e te l y u n i q u e ce nt re to co m e a n d l e a r n , re s e a rc h a n d
b u y B u s h c ra f t !
D ay Co u r s e s
We e ke n d Co u r s e s
We e k Lo n g Co u r s e s
O ve r n i g ht Co u r s e s
Te a m B u i l d i n g
Fa m i l y / Yo u n g Ad u l t Co u r s e s
4 x 4 Voya g e r Co u r s e s
Th e Wo o d l a n d Waye r 2 ye a r co u r s e
O ve r s e a s E x p e d i t i o n s
C A L L N OW O N 0 1 2 3 4 3 5 1 0 0 6
i n fo @ wo o d l a n d - ways. co. u k w w w. wo o d l a n d - ways. co. u k
ADVANCED BUSHCRAFT
HELIOGRAPH DISTRESS SIGNALLING

We all make little mistakes from time to time and it is no
real problem, we deal with them, but in the outdoors,
even the smallest of mistakes can lead to disaster. So,
what if something unforeseen happens or a sudden
emergency evolves whilst you are out there enjoying
yourself or on your way back to safety. If you are
suddenly in a serious emergency situation how good are
your rescue and distress signalling skills?
Distress signalling the basics of a heliograph
There is evidence to suggest that most successful rescues from
survival situations occur mainly because the survivors were
(a) able to assist themselves and (b) had knowledge of how to
create rescue signalling. In this article I intend to illustrate just
some of the basic concepts of heliograph distress signalling and
demonstrate how to help yourself or others by using manufactured
or improvised heliographs.
A heliograph is a signalling device by which light (usually sunlight)
is reflected in flashes from a movable mirror or other reflective
surface. The signal can be multiple random flashes for use as
emergency communications to attract attention, or can follow
a recognised system of communication such as Morse code,
whose signals can be read and interpreted. For survival purposes,
when the signals come from the survivor on the ground to the
search and rescue team they are known as ground to air rescue
signals, while from the rescuer to the survivor is air to ground
communications.
The signal can be either made using a reflection from a
manufactured survival tool or via an improvised reflective tool. A
light source can be used instead of daylight allowing signals to be
sent in the dark or in overcast conditions.
As always, with all
our survival teachings
there are a few simple
heliograph general
rules to follow and in
this article I will only
mention a few of the
more important, they
are as follows:
Perrys Top tip The more ingenuity
you use when using a
heliograph to signal,
the better your
chances of rescue. When using a heliograph it should always be
in the belief that it has not been seen.
Although there are multiple methods and techniques of heliograph
distress signalling, in this edition I am going to offer just a sample
of the common techniques.
Today, modern technology allows us to communicate almost
immediately with anyone anywhere in the world, but when mobile
phones or satellite phones are damaged (or out of range or power)
a sturdy heliograph as will be seen, can be relied upon.
AUTHOR PROFILE:
Perry McGee
Son of the late Eddie McGee, Perry is no
stranger to the wilds. With over 40 years experience in survival training and
leadership, he has endured survival training and situations in all types of
terrain and climates, gaining knowledge of survival scenarios all over the
world. Perry loves helping others learn these skills and willingly assists others
where possible. Perry is founder of the National Tracking School and author
of a number of books including The Tracking Handbook.
You need to have a strategy or plan to recognise the best time

or location to initiate the signal. There is an old survival teaching
that says that you can never have enough distress signals and it is
an important aspect of signalling and rescue. In the event of the
necessity to use a heliograph, you should not be satisfied with just
one heliograph signal, hoping that it will be seen by rescuers, but
improvise several heliograph if possible. Another aspect of sending
any heliograph distress signals is to understand their seriousness
and realise that they should only be used in extreme survival
situations and never directed at passing aircraft for amusement or
demonstration.
So why use a heliograph? After an alarm is raised, an airborne
search and rescue mission is often commenced, but attracting
the rescuers attention can be difficult. It is widely considered that
rescuers are initially more likely to notice light reflected from the
ground or from a source of light elevated into their flight path. As
always, the old classics in tracking and survival are always the best
advice, so put yourself in the position of the rescuer and imagine
what they are able to see to deploy your signals
most effectively. Each signal should be unobstructed,
accurate and directly in the flight or route path of
the potential rescuer and should be deployed long
enough to attract attention. Using a heliograph in
the right circumstances does work and has been
responsible for saving lives.
IMPROVISATION - Although you can buy
manufactured heliographs, they can be easily
improvised using polished knives, axes, mirrors,
water sources, headlights, spectacles, CDs, DVDs or
indeed any surface you can polish up a shine on.
Heliographs have multiple uses and can work in the
absence of the user or survivor and dependent on
the situation an effective deployment of a heliograph
can be seen by passing aircraft rescuers at distances of many miles
away. Heliographs have one set back; they need a degree of light
or illumination to reflect the light. They do however work in the
cold or heat and during strong wind. The heliograph can also be
used to reflect or refract the suns rays onto dry tinder for ignition.
Virtually any light source from torches, sparks, fires etc. can also be
reflected from a heliograph, although the best advantage is gained
by sunlight.
Another aspect of the heliograph is that they do not require much
energy to activate and can be operated from a lying down,

injured or upright position and they compact, so easily
stored in your kit.
Most manufactured heliographs come with a length of
paracord, which allows it to be easily attached to tree limbs,
rescue balloons or aerial kites etc.
A. HOW TO USE A ONE SIDED HELIOGRAPH Simply
point the polished face of the heliograph at the sun or light
source and reflect the rays towards the ground in front of
your feet, then slowly raise the reflection to an object in
the distance. Survivors should learn to practice using a one
sided heliograph and practise aiming at potential rescue
routes. Never shine the heliograph into the face of others.
Where possible the heliograph should be regularly cleaned
and the polished face kept clean and free from grit that
will scratch the surface. To attract rescue, ensure that the
heliographs are facing the direction of the sun and the
direction of the flight path of the rescuers or aircraft.
A.
B. HOW TO USE YOUR FINGERS Hold the heliograph up

in your left or right hand and reflect the suns rays or light
source from the heliograph onto the opposite arm being
careful not to cause burns. Then with the same opposite
arm, the one with the suns rays on, extend and slowly
point at an aircrafts flight path and follow the pointing
hand with the reflection. Another way is to site the passing
aircraft in a V made between your thumb and finger and
direct the suns ray into the V.
C. HOW TO USE A DOUBLE SIDED HELIOGRAPH - If
the heliograph has two shiny surfaces, it can be adapted
to sight the aircraft. Carefully reflect the sunlight onto a
nearby surface and slowly bring the reflected image up
to eye level and look through the sighting hole where a
bright spot of light will be seen. This is the aim indicator.
Then hold the mirror near the eye and slowly turn and
manipulate it is so that the bright spot of light is on or
towards the flight path of the aircraft. If the sun is at such
an angle that it does not work bring the heliograph closer
to the eye and ensure that is no more than 90 from the
sun. Never look directly into bright sunlight.
B.
The NTS GTA heliograph (14.99) has a two sided mirror

with a smaller sighting implement. These each have holes
for use in sighting or directing light.
C.
The disadvantages of heliographs are that over a large

area they can be ineffective as light travels in a straight
line and the earths surface is curved and the light can
only be directed in one direction. The other disadvantage
is the weather. If the sun is not shining then heliographs
can be ineffective and other methods of signalling have to

be used. If the weather is failing and the sun occasionally
shines then a good tip is to use heliographs from a high
vantage point or rotate them around your head attached
to an improvised cordage or wire. Another is to leave them
blowing in the wind whilst tied to objects such as tree tops
or attached to balloons or line kites.
KNIVES & AXES
MAKING A STACKED
KNIFE HANDLE
In previous issues we showed you how to make a knife blade,
now we can turn to the really fun part, the handle. If you
havent made your own blade then dont worry, you can find
stick tang knife blades for sale on the internet. These arent
too expensive and some even come with materials for making
the handle as well. One word of warning though, once you try
making your own knife handle you may well become addicted.
AUTHOR PROFILE:
Ben & Lois Orford

Ben and Lois Orford live and work from
their home in Herefordshire. With their
backgrounds in green woodwork and
traditional woodland crafts they make
a range of handmade woodcraft tools,
bushcraft knives and leatherwork for
the discerning outdoors enthusiast. Their combined experience and passion
for their craft makes them keen to pass on their knowledge and skills.
A selection of handle
materials
aking a stacked handle using a stick tang blade is the easiest way
to start learning how to make and fit a handle. It also gives you the
chance to use up small pieces of material that wouldnt be suitable
for a full tang style knife. The stacked handle is traditional in Scandinavia using
materials such as Antler, Birch, Masur Birch, Alder, Birch bark, leather and
tin. There are strong traditions attached to the knife and the materials being
used, for example using small discs of tin is supposed to keep evil spirits from
entering the knife.
Long and short series drill bits
The real advantage of using smaller pieces of material for the handle is that
finding longer series drill bits is certainly more difficult and more expensive,
but also trying to drill accurately with a narrow drill bit over a long length is
very tricky. Even if you use a pillar drill the small diameter drills tend to wander
off course if they hit a knot for example. Using these smaller parts allows you
to use a hand held drill with enough accuracy to make a well fitted handle.
Also using material such as leather or bark as a washer on the handle means
you can even use a hole punch to create the hole so it is very quick and easy
to make the mortise for the tang.
Before you do any work on the blade or the handle it is best to spend some
time thinking of the design. To do this it is easiest to draw around the blade
and tang on a sheet of paper. Squared paper is quite good as you can use the
squares to help get a symmetrical shape and also get the size right. You can
then lay your hand on the paper and mark the length of handle you require,
doing this will ensure you dont make the handle too short for your grasp.
This done you can now sketch the shape of the handle you want to create.
Decide whether you want a finger guard or not and if you want a heavily
shaped handle for grip or a more symmetrical shape for carving. Draw a few
designs and when you are happy with the final shape, make a copy so if it
works well you can reproduce the same handle more easily.
Drawing out a design
If you are using the blade that you made then spend a little time cleaning it
up and getting the final grind on the bevels. You dont want to hone it yet,
but you can get it so that it will only require a little light work after the handle
is fitted. If you fit the handle to a blade that still needs a lot of metal grinding
from the edge you will find the handle can get in the way. Either that or you
will damage or make the handle dirty while trying to finish the blade.
Once you have got the blade how you want it, mask it with tape or cloth to
prevent you from cutting yourself. This will also prevent marking the blade
while you are working on the handle. The best tape to use is the blue low tack
masking tape, or green frog tape, as these will be easily removed and they
don't leave a sticky residue.
The cleaned up blade
Masking the blade
We are going to use a

combination of antler, wood
and leather for our handle,
but it is up to you what you
use. You need to use the
harder materials such as antler
or wood at the first and last
part of the handle as this will
clamp together all the softer
materials making a good
strong handle. The front part
of the handle or the bolster
wants to be made of the
hardest materials as the front
of the knife is what will get the
most abuse and impacts.
Antler makes a great bolster
We would also recommend

that you make sure no piece of material is longer than 3cm to start with as it
will be easier to drill an accurate mortise.
KNIVES & AXES
Choose the first piece of material for the bolster. You then need to make sure
that both sides are flat and as square to each other as possible. To get it dead
flat you can use some sandpaper on a piece of glass or granite. This is a really
low tech method that emulates a disc sander but will work well for trueing up
the handle blocks. The only two parts that you will have to use finer paper to
get a smooth finish is the very front of the first piece and the back of the last
piece, as these will be the only parts that are visible. The front piece needs to
be done before the handle is assembled as it is very difficult to get in to clean
it up once the blade is in place. Sand it to at least a P320 grit finish, the other
faces can be left with a P60 grit finish as this will help the bond when you glue
it in place.
Sand the faces flat and square
Now you have your first piece of material ready, use a pencil to mark a centre
line onto the front and then lay the tang onto the centre line and mark the
width of the hole you need to drill. Measure the tang at that point and see
what size drill you need to use. It is best to drill slightly under size and then file
it to get a good tight fit.
Always drill from the side of the material that will be seen, as if the drill does go
off course then it will be hidden within the handle and you wont see any gaps.
This first piece is the most difficult and the only one that has to be a really
good fit.
Mark out the position
As the tang is tapered it is also a good idea to draw on the side of the material
the angle to drill. This is done by laying the tang onto the side of the material
and using a pencil to scribe down each side. This can be used to help sight the
angle of the drill bit as you drill
through the material.
File out until it fits
Checking the design
Fitting the second piece
Holding it in a vice, start to drill

out the waste material making
sure you drill square to the face
and follow the lines you have
drawn on the side. To remove
the waste drill the hole nearest
to your scribe lines first and
then remove the waste from in
between. You can then waggle
the drill side to side to try and
break through, joining the
holes together. Once this is
done spend some time with a
small needle file to take out any
remaining waste. Keep trying the
blade into the hole to ensure a
good fit. This may take time but
it is worth getting this piece to
look good. Gaps will not only look
unsightly but allow dirt and grime
to get stuck in the handle when
in use.
Mark the angle of the tang
Drill the edge holes first
With this first solid piece fitted

you can then use the same
method if you want to use
another piece of wood or antler.
Use the next section of the tang
to mark the right size and drilling
angle. These dont have to be
quite so accurate as if the mortise
is a little more sloppy it wont be
seen and will be filled with glue
when constructed.
If you want to use a softer
material such as bark or leather,
Waste removed
you can quickly mark the width of the tang and then using a hole punch you
can remove the waste. The great thing about using a hole punch is you can
easily remove all the waste by nibbling away any bits that prevent it going into
place.
Leather is easy to cut with a
hole punch
Starting to add the layers
Tap it down as you go
All the layers added and

numbered
The layers placed in order on

the bench
Continue to work up the tang, marking and fitting materials until you get to
the right length for your handle (it is worth noting that if you are using leather
or bark it may compress slightly when clamped up and glued). Once this has
been achieved you need to fit the last piece, which again needs to be either
wood, antler or a soft metal like
brass or copper. In the past a crown
of antler was often used as it had
a nice look and natural pommel
shape to it. The tang at this point
should be small enough for only a
single drill hole, so it shouldn't be
too tricky to fit. If the tang is still too
wide for a single hole then you can
file or grind the tang down to make
it square in section about 2mm x
Epoxy glue
2mm. Make sure it fits well without
too many gaps, but also is not so
tight that it will split when pressed
on tightly. You can then remove
this last piece and sand and clean
up the side that will be seen. It is
A scrap piece
easier to sand it all smooth while
of wood to
the tang of the knife is not in the
protect the tip
way.
Once you are happy it all fits
together well, you need to remove
all the pieces to be able to add the
glue and clamp it all in place. It is
very important at this stage that
you do not lose the order. You
can either apply some masking
tape to the side to keep them in
order, or number the larger parts
or just carefully lay them on the
workbench in order as you remove
them.
Its best not to use glue that sets
too quickly as it is tricky to get them
all in place in time. Also you may
need to swap some around if you
put them in the wrong order. We
like to use 30 minute setting epoxy,
but even with this you still need to
work quickly so make sure you are
well prepared. It's messy so some
gloves would be a good idea.
We have found the easiest way to
work is to hold the blade in the vice
tang upwards, (with some soft jaws
in place). Make sure you put a scrap
piece of wood under the jaws so if
the blade slips the tip doesnt hit
the metal of the vice.
Make sure you have

plenty of glue in the
mortise
Apply glue to the next face
Clean the tang with some acetone,

thinners or nail varnish remover to remove all the oil and grease from it, as this
will stop the glue from bonding.
Mix the epoxy and make sure you get some glue into the mortise of the first
piece. You will find the tang pushes out the back of the mortise as you push it
KNIVES & AXES
in, so add some more to the tang just as you push it home. Add glue to the
face of that piece and then slide the next piece down the tang. A piece of scrap
wood or metal tube is good to push all the parts down tightly after you have
added a few.
As you work up the tang try to wipe any excess glue that runs out to prevent it
dripping all over the blade and vice.
Keep adding the layers and tapping them down until you get to the last piece.
Once this is fitted you need to clamp it all down until the glue dries. You can
use either some G clamps or even use the vice (if the jaws open wide enough).
Squeeze it all down tightly, even a few layers of masking tape will help hold it
all in place. One thing to do before the glue sets is to clean any that may have
run out of the front and back pieces of the handle. This is best done with some
Acetone.
After the glue has set, which can take 8 hours, the last thing to do before you
start shaping the handle is to add a washer to the end of the tang and peen
it over. This will secure the
whole handle in place and
make it a lot stronger. A small
brass or copper washer is
perfect for the job. Ideally the
hole in the washer should be
a little bit smaller than the
tang so as it is knocked into
place the corners of the tang
cut into the washer holding it
securely. With the washer in
place cut off the excess tang
with a hacksaw leaving about
3mm above the washer. You
can then use a file to reduce
the tang to about 2mm.
Fitting the copper washer
The washer fitted and the tang

peened over
Adding
the layers gloves are a
good idea
Knock the layers

down tight
The action of filing the

material will start to mushroom
the end of the tang slightly.
With the blade held in the
vice (again remember the
bit of wood in the vice in
case the blade slips) start to
gently tap the tang with a
ball peen hammer until the
edge goes over the washer,
keep going with light blows
until the 2mm of tang has
rounded over holding the
washer in place.
Now the handle is all glued
and dry you can start to
shape the handle. This can
be done either with a file, a
rasp, a knife or even a belt/
disc sander. The easiest way
to get a good result is to
clean up the sides to start
with, leaving them flat so
you can use your design
to draw on the shape. The
advantage of this is as you
have a drawing of where the
tang is within the handle you
wont make it too small and
cut in too deeply.
All the layers glued

together
Clamped down tight

to dry
edges and gives a really good feel to the handle. On the knife we
are making we have decided to keep the pronounced facets on the
handle, which is very traditional on Scandinavian knives and makes
a very comfortable yet grippy handle.

Sides cleaned up and pattern

drawn on
We normally work through the grades of paper to about a P400 grit

finish, you can then give the whole handle a coat of linseed oil to
seal the wood, leather and bark. The oil may need a few hours to
dry, but several coats can be applied over a few days to help seal
Beginning the hand sanding
Using a disc sander to remove

the waste
the handle completely.

With this done you can remove all the tape from the blade and
then sharpen it up and give it a test. If you need to change the
handle at all make sure you re-tape the blade for safety.
Starting to remove the
corners
You now have a totally unique knife bespoke to your needs.
Next issue we will show you how to make a sheath for your
knife so you can take it with you on your next camping trip.
The oiled handle
We prefer to work the top and bottom and the sides keeping
them flat and square and then take off the corners. This will help
to keep the handle symmetrical and then you can progressively
remove the next corners until the handle has smooth edges that
are comfortable in your grip. The secret is to remove some material
and then test it. It has to fit your hand so you will know what feels
right. As always, err on the side of caution as more can always be
removed later if it is too big.
Once you are happy with the shape you can use sandpaper to
smooth it up. Again the best method is to hold the knife blade
securely in a vice and using a long strip of cloth backed emery
paper you can shoe shine the handle. This action helps blend the
REVIEW
BUSHCRAFT TOOLS
OF THE TRADE!
By Simon Ellar
Aside from knives and axes what else does the bushcrafter
need? Well, in the guise of know more carry less, you could say
that we dont need anything not even a knife or an axe, but,
as most experts that I speak with say, if they could only choose
one item to take with them into a survival situation it would be
one of the two!
knife or an axe can be very versatile and do the work of a

saw, secateurs, machete and so on, but we are not always
in a survival situation and there will be times that we are
quite happy using a saw or tools that make life easier. You may be
a bushcraft instructor and need to prepare 10 spoon blanks for a
class, or have some woodland that you own or manage in which you
practice your bushcraft skills, so what tools are available to help us
out?
In coming issues we will take a look at and review where necessary a
series of tools entrenching tools, multitools etc. In this issue I wanted
to look at tools that make life easier when clearing areas to set up
camp, making areas safe, cutting firewood or collecting materials for
craft projects. As a former climbing arborist I have tried my share of
saws, loppers and secateurs, along with other tools such as a machete
Pocket Boy
Available in two sizes and two tooth configurations this saw comes
with a hard plastic case which has a metal loop for attachment to a
belt, pack etc.
170mm Length 10 teeth per 30mm (1) giving a finer cut RRP: 33.22
130mm Length 10 teeth per 30mm (1) giving a finer cut
130mm Length 8 teeth per 30mm (1) giving a coarser cut RRP: 31.52
170mm Length 8 teeth per 30mm (1) giving a coarser cut
or billhook. There is undoubtedly a crossover into bushcraft where

such tools can assist in the enjoyment of our hobby.
As a bushcrafter I firmly believe in the statement Leave no Trace and
more so, as an arborist I am very particular how I harvest materials.
Oft times I have used a saw or secateurs whilst collecting hazel for
campcraft products and there has been many a tired bushcrafter
grateful with the efficient way that a Katana Boy processes firewood.
So what tools would I recommend? Well a saw is commonplace in
many a bushcrafters kit. We reviewed saws in issue 28 of Bushcraft
& Survival Skills Magazine so I am not going to do so again as there
is nothing new out there to warrant doing so. The Laplander saw is
a favourite amongst bushcrafters and certainly has its merits being a
good traditional style saw, the Silky Pocket Boy is also there in the top
two. The Silky is favoured by many and is my preferred choice and
indeed was awarded the Best in Test accolade by the reviewer. Silky
produce excellent saws, they are the most efficient at cutting wood by
far and once you understand the technique they are easy to use. Being
a pull saw (unlike the Laplander which cuts on the push and pull) it
cuts on the pull stroke. All of the saws have a rubberised handle giving
excellent grip.
A great compact folding saw that you can, as the name suggests
tuck into your pocket, it makes light work of cutting branches and of
great importance to me, leaves a really nice clean cut that wont get
infected. I find the 130mm a bit short and prefer on a small saw like
this the extra teeth to ensure that the cut is left neat and tidy, either
on the living tree/ shrub or to enhance the crafted item so would
recommend the 170 10TPI model.
Whilst many bushcrafters are familiar with the Pocket Boy here are
some other models you might want to consider:
Katana Boy
I call this model my pocket chainsaw (pocket is not quite correct, pack would be more suitable). I have two of these which regularly
come on bushcraft adventures. Looking at this new one there have been a few tweaks to the design including a bigger turn screw for
the locking mechanism. This saw is awesome! It leaves a smooth almost polished finish to the cut surface and can process firewood at
a fast rate of knots and certainly is an unpowered chainsaw! RRP: 161.56
Gomtaro
These saws were a firm favourite in my company, they are ideal if
you are using a saw off and on a lot, as you can just drop it into the
sheath and then whip it out again as you need. Again there have
been some modifications when I compare them to the ones that I
have, there is now a roller at the top of the sheath to aid stowing
and preserve the top of the sheath. This also serves to lock the saw
in the sheath. The belt loop has changed too from a fixed plastic
loop to a rubber detachable loop for convenience. The Gomtaro
is available with the following blade lengths 210, 240, 270 and
300mm with a new 300mm fine tooth model and a 240mm root
cutting model. I really like the Pro with the fine teeth at the tip
REVIEW
as this allows you to cleanly cut small branches and increases the
versatility of the saw.
240mm Pro Sentei (pictured here) RRP: 48.79 Also available in a
300mm model, both have a mix of coarse and fine teeth. This model
has 8 teeth per 30mm coarse and 14 per 30mm fine at the tip.
Fine RRP: 52.16 The fine saw has 13 teeth per 30mm. This saw
is designed for smaller branches or finished timber, but more
importantly in a bushcraft sense, dry, dead wood.
Root RRP: 48.79 This saw has a hardened chrome plated blade so
there is no worry of damage when used to cut roots or dirty wood.
Long Boy
I used larger pole saws as an arborist, but in selecting useful tools for bushcraft
use the Longboy is certainly worth considering. Whether you are caring for the
area in which you do your bushcraft, dealing with that hung up branch over
your favourite camping spot or making space to hang your parachute there is
no need for a platform or a ladder, put this saw in the back of your vehicle and
you can reach for the skies. 1.45m when stored, 3.6m extended. The blade is
360mm with 7 teeth per 30mm (1). The blade folds and is well protected and
the pole has a secure locking mechanism.
RRP: 242.82
For a list of stockists visit: http://www.silkyfox.co.uk/stockists.html
In my bushcraft kit you will find a 170mm 10TPI pocket boy in a

Bushcraft Branded quick draw sheath with orange locking lanyard
(visit shop.bushcraftmagazine.com) and a Katana Boy. I regularly
use a Gomtaro in the garden, and when managing the woodland
and with the introduction of the fine model which will be ideal for
processing deadwood for the campfire and the root model can see
these coming on some bushcraft adventures.
On Test
In selecting the saws to share with you I noticed that Silky have
brought out a range of handtools, and that the UK distributor now
also supplies some secateurs, loppers and shears the other thing
that I carry with me in my bushcraft kit is a pair of secateurs, again
I have tried more than I care to remember, including models from
Japan, particularly when I
had an interest in Bonsai,
but I still favour my trusty
My Trusty Felcos
Felcos. That said I tried the
pair shown here as they
are a new brand and as I
value the Silky products
(being Japanese), I thought
I would give them a go.
Made by GTM Professional
the loppers are good, the
jaw action opens wide and
there is good leverage
from the length of the
handles. There are two
rubber buffers at the top
and the loppers are light,
having alloy handles
with rubber handles at
the end for grip. For the
record, I never really liked
the Felco loppers. The
secateurs do the job well,
I dont like the way that
they spring so far open
and the catch is not easy to use like
the one handed locking action on the Felcos, so, my old
Felco secateurs, even the No.2s, which would be a more
direct comparison, are still my choice!
Okatsune 103 RRP: 41.29
Kamaki L81 Lopper 63.32
So, what else have Silky brought out?
REVIEW
Nata 240 Single edge machete

With the concept that chopping is often faster than sawing, Silky
have brought out this machete which is available in 4 lengths all
either with a single grind, or double grind. The rubber absorbs
the shock of the vibrations when chopping and provides great
grip! It comes with a sturdy sheath which lends itself to quick
draw applications if you want to keep putting your machete down
between tasks.
I was very unsure of this at first as it has a quirky look about it with
the grind making it look like an oversized chisel but it performed
Ono 120 Axe

Well as we have started chopping, lets not stop there, the new
Ono axe from Silky has the same kind of rubberised handle with
a good butt to keep it secure in your hand, it is a good weight
and so works well chopping effortlessly through the dead Beech
stem. The steel extends through the
handle making it in effect full tang and
an interesting feature is that the blade is
replaceable. Again the materials and the
grippyness make it weatherproof and so,
whilst not comparable to the likes of a
Gransfors, Wetterlings or Hultafors axe is
worth considering as a utility tool. I would
use it for brashing, stripping bark and it
could be used to baton through wood to
split it. The application that I do like is that
being relatively flat it is space saving and
therefore great in a vehicle or bug-out
bag should the unexpected happen. Also
removing the blade allows you to pack the
axe, flat for example at the back of your
pack and then when needed you can wrap
the handle to create a useable handle in the
field. Again the price is high for this item
and so it really is more of a utility tool. By
comparison the Gransfors Wildlife Hatchet
is more natural, aesthetically pleasing,
and functional all round, and costs less.
Another application for this axe is in game
preparation, it has the appearance
surprisingly well! It does not compare to the likes of the handmade

Parangs and Machetes that many bushcrafters drool over, such
as the Ben Orford Parang awarded the Best in Test accolade in
issue 34 where we reviewed machetes. Compared to some of the
basic Gerber models however, it does have the edge. The handle
is a nice shape and very grippy being made from textured rubber
and the machete has a good weight to it aiding chopping. I tried
chopping through some dead Beech and it worked well!
With the grippy handle and the weatherproof nature of the whole
thing this is well worth considering as a bushcraft tool. I dont see
an application for the double edged model, the model reviewed
here is 240mm and the RRP: is 95.93 which in my opinion is a
touch on the high side
in some respects of a meat cleaver and would make an ideal tool

for dressing carcasses. In this respect the price becomes more
justifiable
Ono 120 Axe RRP: 93.32
WIN!
a Silky
Pocket Boy!
Question:
As well as being a wrist lanyard, what

other function does the Lanyard have on the Branded
Bushcraft Silky Pocket Boy?
Check out shop.bushcraftmagazine.com
Yoki
Yoki is a billhook, I found a billhook to be very useful when
processing brash as an arborist, it quickly and easily strips branches
down into manageable pieces, the hooked end is ideal for hooking
and pulling branches as you do so. Used like a machete it is also
effective in clearing shrubbery. I like the Yoki and it is well balanced
and lightweight but owing to the price would recommend the Stihl
Brush Hook, which is available for between 15 and 20 and is a
good piece of kit. If you have a good parang or machete, this is not a
necessity, but could be a good all rounder in the absence of one.
RRP: 83.32
In conclusion, Silky saws are AMAZING! I endorse them fully, they

win my Best in Test accolade every time, In this article I wanted
to show you the saws that I feel are most suited to bushcraft. In
doing so, I discovered that Silky have released a range of hand
tools and so decided to take a look at them, along with some
pruning tools new to the distributor. As mentioned I am a fan
of Felco secateurs for their durability, comfort, and flexibility in
terms of adjustment and being able to replace the blade and
so didnt find the ones reviewed here to be anything special.
The loppers were good but there are many pairs out there that
are much of a muchness. The range of Silky hand tools are

well made and sturdy though I do feel that they are expensive
compared to the alternatives available. I like the idea of the
axe as a food prep tool and as an emergency use axe, utilising
the blade (and sheath) only. I hope that this article has instilled
the value of a good saw and pair of secateurs to enhance your
bushcraft activities.
Happy Bushcrafting!
INSTRUCTOR TRAINING
A DREAM COME TRUE

At the Bushcraft Show 2012 Jason
Ingamells delivered a talk entitled
'So you want to be a bushcraft
instructor?' in which he very
honestly discussed working in the
bushcraft industry. He closed the
talk by asking So who still wants
to be a bushcraft instructor?. I
raised my hand. Two years later
I would be one of Jason's team at
the Bushcraft Show 2014, having
won this magazine's Facebook
advent calendar Christmas Day
prize, an incredible three month
work experience placement with
Woodland Ways.
came into it very arrogant thinking I

knew lots, but without justification. I
had minimal dirt time actually doing
'bushcraft', had read a couple of books
and watched survival TV shows. Family
camping holidays provided the bulk
of my experience, but on the actual
bushcraft front I was a novice. It took
about 20 minutes in the company of
Woodland Ways' instructors for me to
lose this arrogance!
By
Asa Hardy-Brownlie
At the Bushcraft Show I got to see

the whole Woodland Ways team
together, which I'm told is a rarity.
Every single person I met was an
asset to the company, each with their
own specialism, brought together
by a passion for bushcraft. At this
year's Bushcraft Show it was the team
that made Woodland Ways stand so
successful, that and the full size red
deer in the middle of the marquee
standing boldly in the mud...
On my work experience placement
my time was spent helping on courses
catering for many different age
groups and backgrounds, set in
woods in Oxfordshire, Derbyshire
and Leicestershire. Some weeks were
back-to-back with courses.
It is impossible to cover three months
in the detail I'd like in this article, so
here are my 'highlights'!
Getting an ember with a bowdrill
was my ultimate mission. As soon
as the friction firelighting kits came
out on my first family course with
Adam Logan, I jumped straight in
along with the customers. It took
about 10 minutes to get an ember
with an instructor's guidance

and then another five to
get one on my own from
scratch. The feeling blowing
ember into flame was one of
sheer elation and joy. I kept
practising the technique and
made a couple of my own
sets experimenting with
different woods. I also had
opportunities to demo the
firebow and got it going! The
pressure of people watching
increases the challenge,
but only cements your own
technique, aiding the honing
of a reliable set that will give
you embers whatever the
weather! On a side note, I
successfully carved my first
spoon on a teenagers' course
some weeks later and I felt
the same elated feeling using
it to eat as I did making fire
with a bow drill. I'm sure the
feeling is an ancestral pat on
the back for learning skills
that really matter!
Apprentice Ian is a keen
advocate of good camp
admin. I was on the receiving
end of this very early on
as my lack of practical
experience soon became
apparent. I was struggling
to keep on top of my
personal hygiene and wasn't
maintaining my equipment.
I had inefficiently packed
way too much stuff. Ian's
constructive verbal assault
was the best thing that could
have happened at that time. It
really kicked me into gear and
encouraged me to get my stuff
sorted out. A proper daybag, a
better sleep system no more
getting damp on rainy nights; a
box with a locking lid for all my
food; a washkit for washing
without a shower and far less
clothes. My gear - what I need
and nothing more. I really
enjoyed refining my kit and I'm
still refining. Good camp admin
is good bushcraft!
The weeklong course at the
beginning of what became a
58 day stint in the woods was
by far my favourite. Myself,

Adam Logan and apprentice
Joseph Philbin ran the fully
booked course. The glorious
weather, variety of sessions,
fantastic participants, long
drop toilet with a view
over the woodland and
the wonderful backdrop
of the 400 acre Belvoir
Wood, Leicestershire with
no noise pollution made
for a fantastic five days!
The weekend that followed
saw Martyn Tudhope join
us for a weekend course. I
had decided at this point
that I really wanted to get
involved in the delivery
rather than hanging back
and doing behind-the-scenes
stuff. Martyn agreed to me
delivering the knife safety briefing at the beginning of the course, luckily
he was impressed and the rest, as they say, is history. By the end of August
I had delivered or assisted in the delivery of almost every module on the
weekend course and really enjoyed sharing the skills that I had learned over
the summer with others.
When I wasn't showing
kids how to carve
without bleeding to
death, I was turning
pigeons inside out with
30 corporate women
and when I wasn't doing
a course I was spending
quality time with great
people, preparing for
the next one. I left with
so many stories. There's
the time instructor Matt
Adams locked his keys
in his car at 11pm in the
middle of the woods and
the AA had to be called, and the Gransfors
Bruks axe I was given by Jason Ingamells for
devising a treasure hunt for 180 school kids
on a residential trip, among many others.
It all came together one night in Oxford.
Awaking to a thunderstorm, I lay there
thinking about how honoured I was to have
this experience. Not only was I spending
three months away from the speed and
stresses of modern life, immersing myself in
nature, I was also receiving quality training.
My tree and plant ID has gone from 5 to 40 species and I know their uses.
I can care for my knife and keep it shave sharp. I can rig up a tarp. I can
distinguish between muntjac and roe tracks. These may seem fairly basic
skills, but coming into this knowing practically nothing I feel I've travelled
some distance! I owe so much to the people that made this happen,
Bushcraft & Survival Skills magazine, Jason Ingamells and all of Woodland
Ways, with a special mention to Martyn Tudhope, with whom I spent most
of my adventure. Thank you. My journey is thankfully not over... On my last
weekend of the three months with Jason we discussed my future. I begin
the two year Woodland Wayer programme next year and Jason has agreed
to take me on as an apprentice, an incredible journey. Thank you Bushcraft
& Survival Skills Magazine.
CANOEING
WEST IS BEST
Although far out in the bay, our canoe sits secure,
tied at one end to an ancient gutweed-enveloped
buoy. A bed of dark golden kelp waves up at the
hull from below. Oystercatchers race backwards
and forwards overhead, their arced flight a Morse
code streak of piping calls.
at facing each other, trying to enjoy a late breakfast,

the weight of scrutiny is heavy. At least thirty heads
bob about in the surrounding deep water. Each bite of
our meal is an event, each sip of water watched ever more
closely in solemn wide-eyed silence. As another smooth
domed crown breaks the surface, this time only about eight
foot off our starboard beam, the situation gets the better
of me. A poorly muffled burst of laughter is drowned by the
splash and slap of diving seals. Not that we are left unobserved
for long, as our mealtime performance is soon scrutinised once
again by a silent and very attentive audience. They seem quite
intrigued.
Or perhaps they just want their fish back. Until we pulled up to
this convenient mid-loch parking
spot for breakfast, our efforts had
been focused on mackerel and
half a dozen now lie in the shallow
valley of the canoe, their scaly
blue-green iridescence still bright.
Not that much effort was needed.
In such shoal rich waters, possibly
to the seals displeasure, these
sleek and glorious fish werent
that hard to catch.
AUTHOR PROFILE:
Tim Gent
Happiest living in a tent somewhere close

to both sea and mountains, Tim paddles
and clambers in search of our remaining
wild and inspiring places, documenting
these experiences so that others might be
encouraged to follow. A very enjoyable role
of course, but one also undertaken in the
belief that a better understanding of these
fragile landscapes might offer the best chance for their survival, and ours.
Paddling out from our campsite that morning, the loch had
been held in one of those special early dawn lulls, all soft air
and water before the buzz and activity of a full day. In search of
our lunch, we only had to look out across the smooth water for
signs of other hunters. Those harbour seal heads marked the
general areas
we needed to
reach and knots
of gathering
cormorants
revealed a
tighter focus,
their efforts
watched from
overhead by a
Mackerel
pale scatter of
gulls and terns.
Eigg and Rum, seen from the mainland
As the water warmed in the

morning sun the seals and birds
were no longer needed, the shoals
betrayed themselves. Driving at
speed through clouds of helpless
sand eels, the frantic underwater
hunters ruffled the surface,
occasionally breaking it with a
splash as they turned. Even in the
gentle swell out in the loch, you
could spot these massed mackerel
sweeps from hundreds of yards
away.
Drawing away from the shore, and as soon as wed paddled out
beyond shallow water, free from the bladderwrack and kelp, we
dropped a handline over the side. A small weight dived, a large
silver Mepps lure already alive and humming at the end of a long
strand of stout monofilament. Trolled behind our Prospector,
the first fish struck as we swung in a wide turn amongst the
displaced cormorants.
West coast campsite
Grilled for lunch over a small fire

on the beach, the fuel collected
from a swathe of flotsam spread
out conveniently along the high
tide line behind us, our catch
tasted like nothing you might buy in a shop inland. But then,
compared to the busy interior, everything out here on this very
exceptional coast seems to carry an extra gloss.
The west coast of Scotland is a very special strand of meandering
majesty. Where else in Britain could we paddle along a shoreline
like this? Great craggy hills stand tall on either side of the loch,
their deer-spotted flanks falling direct to the waters
edge, rugged barriers to the Atlantic blasts beyond. Safe
within this natural shelter, we can move without anxiety
along the shining shore.
As evening approaches, aching arms coincide with
the discovery of a sheltered bay. The sandy beach lifts
gently to a level area of deer-clipped grass, nestled
alongside a low oak copse. The perfect campsite. Where
but Scotland could you then pull ashore, pitch a tent
and make this your temporary home? The freedom
of thought and action provided to the responsible
traveller by the 2003 Scottish Land Reform Act has to be
experienced to be believed.
CANOEING
Loch Etive in April
Anyone with an interest in bushcraft, whatever the particular

field, naturally wants to put the skills they have accrued into
practice. As has been discussed by various writers in this
magazine, this can be much easier in the planning than in
reality. The space and access arrangements needed to allow
this freedom just arent that easy to find. That is, until you move
north of the border.
cruising high on the thermals overhead and you will begin to see
why Susannah and I like the west coast so much, why we keep
going back. And then, in addition to the visual feast, consider
the chance to procure yourself an edible one too. Seaweed,
shellfish, mackerel, not to mention, crabs, cliff top mushrooms,
pollock The list is almost endless.
Once people discover that

we visit this Atlantic western
Here, as long
coast, were often asked for
as you dont
recommendations on where
interfere with
Looking out over the north channel of
to go. I suspect they think Im
other peoples
Loch Moidart to Eilean Shona
being glib and offhand when
enjoyment of
I say anywhere from the
the land, or their
Firth of Clyde to Cape Wrath.
ability to make
Im not. There are some
a living from it
particular gems of course,
and as long as
but Ill leave you to find them
you dont harm
for yourselves. Hints can be
this very special
found in the accompanying
environment,
photographs after all and
you can pretty
besides, I wouldnt want to
much do as you
spoil the fun of exploration
please. There are
and discovery. And I really
a few restrictions
do stand by that initial
of course
answer. From Cambletown to
and anyone
Durness, we havent found a
considering
dull bit yet.
a visit would
benefit from a close scrutiny of the Scottish Access Code (www.
The feel of the land and sea differs as you travel north of course.
outdooraccess-scotland.com). Yet if you want to break away
For a long time, enchanted by the emptiness and wind-blown
from the hurtling masses, to find somewhere quiet and put up
rugged splendour of the far north, we tended to rush past those
a tent for a night or two, Scotland provides your nearest nationfirst bits out to the left. Then one year, with only a few days
sized opportunity.
spare, we decided to limit our journey and explore the lochs and
islands just beyond Glasgow. Cosier and inevitably including a
Which is good enough, and the Scottish interior is a marvel - but
few more people, this area has a charm all of its own. Anywhere
add to all this the splendour of tides, seals, otters and occasional
doon the watter from the city is well worth a look.
whale sightings, each with the odd golden eagle thrown in,
These range from low tumbled field

boundaries climbing a slope alongside
a cleared village, a testament to past
determination and toil, to the towering
walls of a chieftains castle. If there
is any place in Britain where you can
almost taste the struggle that man
has endured to create his home, it is
among these islands. History, flora,
fauna and geology at their finest, and
all that available space.
First light of 2013 over Loch Sunart
Besotted? Maybe. Uncritical? I hope

not. You may have been told about the
west coast midge. All I can say is that
everything youve heard is probably
true. Susannah and I often joke that
these tiny misery merchants at least
help to keep the area empty. If you
feel they may be a problem, try to
visit before the last frosts in April, or
once a little nocturnal chill returns in
September or October. If you go in
summer, prepare to be stoical - and
give a head net very serious consideration.
Space does open up as you head on towards Loch Bervie and

as the trees thin and the roads empty yet further, it would
be hard to imagine any
outdoor enthusiast finding
fault. Fjord-like loch after
Returning from a camping trip on Loch Etive
stunning loch, many tree
fringed, and few without a
proud mountain backdrop.
Those harbour and grey seals
Ive already mentioned are
everyday sights and otters
are hardly rare, at least not
for those moving almost
silently along the coastal
edge in a canoe. Pods of
dolphin break the surface
farther out, while a huge
range of seabirds rush about,
the mix changing with the
seasons. I still feel a thrill each
year at the first sight of that
almost clockwork-buzzing
flight as a puffin heads off
Should keep the fire going for a while
out to sea on another sand
eel foray.
And should you ever grow
tired of the wonders on offer
along the mainland edge,
there are the islands. Ranging
in size from little more
than large wave-breasting
boulders, to vast dunefringed mountain ranges
stretched out steadfast
against the elements, there
are literally hundreds to seek
out and visit. Each isle is
different, forged in isolation
by variations of geology,
tide, wind and human intervention. History is written clear on
the surface of these rugged mini-kingdoms. Countless stories
for anyone who cares to look, marked out in stone or earth.
That drive is also

probably quite a
bit further than
you might think.
If you have a grim
motorway journey
up from southern
England, you may
feel that by the time
you pass Glasgow
you must now be
there. Well you are,
just, but any trip
to the far north or
west is still only half
complete.
Surprise, surprise - it
can also rain there
and blow pretty
hard too, but then
that only adds to
the allure. It also
makes those not
infrequent days
of sun so special.
Besides, as the old
saying goes theres
no such thing as
poor weather, just
poor clothing.
After that brush
with the minor
drawbacks, its
a return to the
important bits white coral-sand
beaches lapped
by gin clear sea water and fringed with wading birds, graceful
birch copses, proud Munros and lofty gneiss cliffs with views out
across the dark green waves to forever.
Hurry Before They Sell Out

FREE P&P
To select which back issues you

would like, please tick the box
UK only - For a price for overseas back issues please email info@bushcraftmagazine.com
LAST
FEW
Issue 01
LAST
FEW
LAST
FEW
LAST
FEW
LAST
FEW
Issue 11
Issue 13
Issue 14
Issue 15
Issue 20
Issue 21
Issue 26
Issue 28
Issue 29
Issue 30
Issue 31
Issue 32
Issue 37
Issue 38
LAST
FEW
Issue23
LAST
FEW
Issue 34
Issue 33
WIN!
A REINDEER
HIDE
LAST
FEW
WIN!
The UKs FIRST Bushcraft Magazine!

endar p36
Countdown to Christmas with our Bushcraft Advent Cal
A MORA
KNIFE
Issue 35
Issue 36

Learn how-to tell the time using the stars! p46
LAST
FEW
& S U R V I VA L S K I L L S
& S U R V I VA L S K I L L S
Bear Grylls Survival Academy -
Reviews
WHITE WILDERNESS
Survival in the Highlands
The Outdoor Classroom
WOLF & LYNX Tracking in Slovakia
Survive a Winters Night
Issue 40
DOS & DONTS How-to Split Wood With a Knife
for living life outdoors
& SURVIVAL SKILLS
Extreme Survivors
In a LEAN-TO
Down Jackets
Winter Wildlife
Reviews
Catapults
CANOE CAMPING
PARADISE
More from Mora Knives
Explore the Wild!
How-to Make &
Haynes Survival Manual
Fit An Axe Handle
How it all began!
and much more...
Take your bushcraft skills
conditions in your car
WINTER SKILLS
Survival Guide for Life
Lofty Wiseman -
SURVIVING BLIZZARD
How to Live in a Heated Tent!
TUTORIAL
on an adventure
Crook Knife Case
BEST IN BUSHCRAFT
WIN!
2012 RESULTS
EMERGENCY
CAR KIT
Learn How-to work with

WILD CLAY
and much more...
Richard
wn wild
about lesser-kno
about the
Clarissa
in the
foods Learn
share delicious
you wont find
Johnny Scott
cooking succulent plants books p8
recipes for
p44
guide
game this Christmas
Issue 41
Let the wild

people as
magic on young
their creativity
ice art
they unleash
ephemeral
and make
p78
Issue 41 Nov/Dec 12
FREE!
TRACKING
TEMPLATES
Foods Lees,
Forgotten
nist, Richard
Ethnobota
well-known
examines lessthat provide a
edible plants
diet in the
healthy, balanced
wild p8
Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine Issue 47 Nov/Dec 2013
en Foodsyou
ForgottLees,
teaches
Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine Issue 42 Jan/Feb 2013
Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine Issue 41 Nov/Dec 2012
the Table&
Meat on
Dickson Wright
g
Outdoor Learnin
its
world weave
nd
Ancient Woodla
most precious
Knife Grasps
Safe& Lois
Orford show
Discover our
ntal resources
environme woodland, home
an ancient and often
to some rarespecies p22
threatened
Ben
knife cuts or
you some safe can keep you
grasps which any work
doing
safe when p12
with a knife
Issue 42 Jan/Feb 13
sep codes.indd 1
3/12/09 14:59:03
sep codes.indd 1
3/12/09 14:59:03
Issue 42
Issue 43
Issue 44
Issue 46
Issue 45
Win!
Ray Mears
aphy
Autobiogr
How-to make
Swiss Arrow
The
Issue 47
Pros & Cons of the Latest Stoves for Use Under Canvas
Research Why use Bushcraft in Education?
for living
life outdoors
& SURVIVAL SKILLS
INTERVIEW
for living
life outdoors
& SURVIVAL SKILLS
with Tracker Perry McGee
Never Stop Learning Bushcraft
MAKE YOUR OWN

MOBILE CHOPPING
BLOCK
AUTUMNAL WILD FOOD

STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE
PUSH YOUR COMFORT ZONE
FORGE A STICK TANG KNIFE BLADE
BEHIND THE LENS OF

LES STROUDS
PHOTOGRAPHER
EMBARK ON
THE ROUTE TO
MASTERY
ETCH YOUR DESIGN

ONTO YOUR KNIFE
SPRING SHOOTS,
SUPERB SOUPS
and much more...
and much more...
Make a
Homemade
Net
The UKs First
Issue 49
How to
Sleep
Warm
ine
Bushcraft Magaz
Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine Issue 52 Sep/Oct 2014
Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine Issue 49 Mar/Apr 2014
Issue 48
WIN!
Win!
A FRON
STOVTIER
E
Which open
canoe is right
for you?
Issue 49 Mar/Apr 14
sep codes.indd 2
3/12/09 14:59:03
sep codes.indd 2
3/12/09 14:59:03
Issue 50
Issue 51
A Bear
Grylls
Craghopp
Jacket ers
- How-to
Make a Paraal Extract Colour
Make Grass
e
cord Surviv
from Natur
Rope with
e Bracelet
Perry McGe
The UKs First
ine
Issue 52 Sep/Oct 14
Bushcraft Magaz
sep codes.indd 5
3/12/09 14:59:03
sep codes.indd 5
3/12/09 14:59:03
Tracking a
Missing
Man
ine
raft Magaz
UKs First Bushc
Issue 52
Lofty Wisem
Survival
Stories
ans
Issue 47 Nov/Dec 13
Don't miss out

before they
sell out!
Perfect Stocking Filler
Special
Christmas
Offers
1 back issue is 5.95
Plus a FREE
Bushcraft &
Survival Sk
ills
Magazine
Spork with
each
order!
5 back issues for 20 Saving You 9.75

COMPLETE THE FORM OR CALL 0333 4567 123 (OPTION 1)
YOUR DETAILS (ESSENTIAL)
Title:
Name:
OTHER PAYMENTS:
Surname:
Address:
Postcode: Country:
Daytime tel number:
Email address:
GIFT RECIPIENT'S DETAILS

Title:
Name:
Surname:
Address:
Postcode: Country:
Daytime tel number:
Email address:
Name on card:
Card Number:

Valid from: / Exp. date: / Iss no:
Security no. (Last three digits on the signature strip):
Cardholders House no. (If applicable)
Cardholders Postcode:
I enclose a cheque / postal order
made payable to SO Publications & Events Ltd for
Send the completed form, along with a cheque or postal order (where applicable) to:
SO Publications & Events Ltd, PO Box 16777, Tamworth, B77 9NG
Calls to 0333 numbers are charged at local rate. SO Publications Ltd, publisher of Bushcraft & Survival Skills
Magazine, may contact you with details of our products and services or to undertake research. Please tick here if
you prefer not to receive such information by post email phone
magazine 63
BUSHCRAFT
& survival
skills
Bushcraft & Survival
Skills
magazine wil not pass
on
your details to third
parties.
magazine
BUSHCRAFT
survival
skills
63
63
magazine
BUSHCRAFT
&&&
survival
skills
63
magazine
BUSHCRAFT
survival
skills
Offer ends 13.12.14
SUBSCRIBE TODAY!
SUBSCRIPTION ORDER FORM
Subsc
TO ribe
DAY!
From
on
29 ly
BCM53
!
WINEER
!
Adven
gaz ine B u s h c r a f t
aft Ma
ur
Bus hcr a s w i t h o
s FIR ST
ristm
The UK o w n t o C h
td
Coun
& SUR
SKILL
V I VA L
Reviews
sroom
door Clas
s
The Out
Survivor
Extreme
Jackets
Winter
s
Catapult
SS
NEakia
ERSlov
ILD
TE W
king in
WHI
LYNX Trac
WOLF &
rs Night
1 Year Subscription
36
dar p
RAFT
BUSHC
IND
A REHID
E
PAYMENT OPTIONS
n
t Cale
a Winte
Survive
N-TO
LOF
ildlife
rW
teWild
inthe
!
W
Explore
Th
TY
WIS
In a LEA
UK 29 Europe 55 Rest of World 72
ake &
to M
dle
HoAnwAxe Han
K s
FI RS
ANS
T Bu
Saf
sh cr
ety
af t
and
&S
UR
VIV
AL
Fit
ch more...
and mu
SK
M ag
Surv
az
ival
in e!
Tip
s fo
r yo
ILL
WIN!
2 Year Subscription (FREE Kupilka Kuksa and spoon RRP 24))
eU
EM
urCS
Th
oum
mm
peer Hol e UKs
tit iday FIR
ion !
ST
Bu
s
EMERGENCY
CAR KIT
Bushcra
UK 58 Europe 110 Rest of World 144
Co
ft & Surviva
odss you
ens, Fo
d
ottLee
teache
n wil
Forg
hard er-knowut the
Magazi
v/D
41 No
ec 12
Cert no.
TT-COC-2200
& Sur
viva
l Skil
ore.
..
ls Ma
gaz
ine
c 2012
un
tdo
wn
sh
to
is W ft &
ST OW
AC -T
inte Sur
KE O
ST
r viva
DK M
E
M
lS
NIF AK
TR AKE P-B
kil
AC A
EH EA
Y
ls
K B
MA ING SIVTVY B-STE AND
W
LE
IC AG
IT N
KS FR P G
H
DA TR
OM U
VID A
an
VEG ID
dm
SC CK
ET E OT IN
A
uc
T-D
TIO
hm
ON G
N
aft
Nov/De
fo
AV W-T
STUOID O
cre
Let
on you their l ice art
N B
magicunleash emera
they make eph
Deli G OREING
and
c
BIT
p78
CA ious
Wil TEN
CO MO
d
STA NC UFL
EA AG Food
Y
and OUT O LME E &
F SI NT
muc
GH
hm
T
Issue
SU
Rf
V
lifeoIVrALlivSing
10
outKdIL
to Bus
Try hc
ooLrsS
th ra
H
hcr
40
ne Issue
rs
e outdoo
r living lif
rningve its
wea as
or Lea
worldpeople ity
Outdo
ativ
the wild ng
&
Bus
Ric
less
abo
in the
about Learn nt find
foods you wop8
Wrighticious
nts
ks
kson
del
a Dic share
culent pla de boo
gui
Clariss Scott king suc
p44
Johnnys for cooistmas
recipee this Chr
gam
on
Meat
l Skills
ble
the Ta &
HO
M W-T
SIMAKE O
FO PLEA
R
HO GE
ore
...
IN
Issu
A
L
POEAT
UC HE
H R
e 51
&
AN
a ft
ris
ag
tm
az
as
in
wit
e!
ho
ur
Big
Bu
sh
cra
ft G
ive
aw
ay
f
lifeor liv
out ing
doo
rs
Bu
!
IN rit
WTrueyGBearlls
t&
201
raf
Aug
shc
Jul/
EL
cr
Ch
Su
va
rvi
ills
Gry
l Sk
Abo
Bushut The
Show craft
M
2014 O ake You
w
Candn Bush r Pl
an
les
First
Ove ning
Ma
ga
zin
Iss
ue
No
The U
53
ec
20
14
Ks
v/D
Bushc
raft
Magaz
ine
The
Iss
ue
UK
Experseas an
Madition
k
51
Sta e A
Ha cke
nd d K
le
n
Jul
s F
/Au
g 14
irst
ife
Cert
Bush
no.
TT-COC-220
0
cra
2 Magazine binders 20 inc P&P
TOTAL______
Magazine binder 12.95 each inc P&P
Bu
Ch shcra
Wraristm ft
pp as
ed all Es
up B s e n
!
us tia
ft M
zine
h
l
the craft
Tra To
de ols
of
aga
sep
sep
Iss
ue
53
No
v/
De
14
cod
es.in
dd
cod
es.in
dd
Cert
3/12
/09
no.
TT-COC-2
200
/09
14:5
3/12
9:03
14:5
9:03
YOUR DETAILS (ESSENTIAL)

Title:
Name:
Surname:
Address:
Postcode: Country:
Daytime tel number:
Email address:
GIFT RECIPIENT'S DETAILS

Title:
Name:
Surname:
KUPILKA products are made of a Biomaterial. The Biomaterial

used for KUPILKA products is a Thermoplastic Natural Fibre
Composites material. It is made up of 50% pine fibre (wood) and
50% plastic.
Address:
Postcode: Country:
Daytime tel number:
SUBSCRIBE, EXTEND or RENEW your subscription to

Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine for two years and get
a FREE Kupilka Bushcraft Branded Kuksa and spoon (RRP
24).
Email address:
OTHER PAYMENTS:
Card Number:
Name on Card
Offer ends 31st December 2014
100%
MONEY
-BACK
guarantee
Valid from:
Exp. date:
Iss no:
Security no. (Last three digits on the signature strip):
Cardholders House no.
(If applicable)
Cardholders Postcode:
3 Easy Ways to Subscribe

Complete the subscription form
Call 0333 4567 123 (option 1)
Visit www.bushcraftmagazine.com
We are so confident that you will love Bushcraft &

Survival Skills Magazine that if you are not completely
satisfied with the first copy of your subscription, if you
return the copy to us (and if applicable, unused gift)
within 14 days from the purchase date, we will give you
a full refund.
I enclose a cheque / postal order

made payable to SO Publications & Events Ltd for
Send the completed form, along with a cheque or postal order (where applicable) to:
SO Publications & Events Ltd, PO Box 16777, Tamworth, B77 9NG
SO Publications & Events Ltd reserves the right to send an alternative gift of similar value. Your gift will be sent separately within 28 days.
Calls to 0333 numbers are charged at local rate. SO Publications & Events Ltd, publisher of Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine, may
contact you with details of our products and services or to undertake research. Please tick here if you prefer not to receive such
information by post email phone
Go on, treat yourself you deserve it!
In the
next issue
The Bushcraft Community - Travel around the
world with us through the pages of Bushcraft & Surival Survival
Skills Magazine and see and hear how interest in bushcraft and
survival skills is developing around the world. Our first stop is
Italy.
Working your canoe Tim Gent highlights
theversatile support role of thecanoe including; fishing,
foraging,canoe camping, forestry, conservation, surveying or
even archaeology, moving people, and his personal favourite collecting wood!
Step-by-step Guide
How-to make a sheath for your knife so you can take it with you
on your next big adventure.
Bushcraft skills in Deer Stalking - Follow a

deer stalker in lowland England and discover the bushcraft skills
they use day-to-day
Prepping - Whats it all about and should I become a
prepper?
Winter Kit for Winter Survival - From snow

markers to ice axes, ice grippers to portable snow shovels, we
look at the best kit available for your winter expeditions.
Seasonal Wild foods, Seasonal Craft and
Seasonal Wildlife!
And much more
WIN!
On sale 31st Dec 2014

a Sn
ow
Shov
el
DON'T miss out subscribe www.bushcraftmagazine.com or see p66
CHRISTMAS GIFT IDEAS
BUSHCRAFT CHRISTMAS
GIFT GUIDE
Wilds of the Wolf by Steve
Backshall
Review by Elaine Gilboy
Hardback 10.99
WIN!
This is the third book in The Falcon

Chronicles, a fiction series written for
Win a copy of
older kids/teens by Steve Backshall,
this book, send
in
famous for his CBBC TV show Deadly
your details. Se
e
60. I really enjoyed this book, despite
T & Cs p3
not expecting to. Teen survival expert
Saker is on the run from a murky past and
has teamed up with Sinter, a mysterious
girl from India, to save the world by righting one environmental
wrong after another. They are helped by a tech head in Vietnam
called Minh and tons of money from an earlier adventure. This
novel focuses on their quest to protect wolves in Siberia, who are
being systematically killed on the orders of Hep Rylander, a Texan
millionaire illegally
drilling for oil in the
area.
While the book has a
self-contained story,
there is an intriguing
backstory about the
Clan a group of
teenage assassins on
Sakers trail who each
have the characteristics
of a different animal controlled by a sinister
figure known as The
Prophet. The reader is
dropped into the novel
without knowing who
the characters are.
While this confusion
as to who is who is
exciting and allows the
plot to race away, it
does make it difficult
to get to know the characters, so I would definitely recommend
starting with Tiger Wars, the first book in the series (available as a
digital book on amazon for 99p)!
There are some similarities between this series and Bear Grylls
Mission Survival books, which also feature a young survival expert.
I think Backshalls books are better plotted and better written. I
love the way the facts about wolves, huskies, surviving in sub-zero
conditions and the Nenet tribes way of life are a natural part of the
story for the reader to absorb. I also liked that other than the main
baddie who is conveniently evil through and through, most other
characters are depicted in shades of grey. Like the Lego sets that
parents buy for their kids at Christmas and then help with, this is
definitely one to buy (and then borrow).
Inspired by Canadas Algonquin

Wilderness
129.95
www.whitbyandco.co.uk/helle/knives/hel78-algonquin
Since 1932, Helle of Norway has earned a solid reputation for
quality, craftsmanship and producing aesthetically stunning
and highly functional knives made to withstand a lifetime of
rugged outdoor use. Helle is proud to unveil the newest addition
to its acclaimed line of handcrafted knives with the Algonquin.
A beautiful and stout knife, the Algonquin is designed for selfreliance and freedom in the wild whether traversing from jungle to
tundra or just sitting around the campfire with friends.
The Algonquin is a collaborative work featuring world- renowned
photographer
and Discovery
Channels
Survivorman
production team
member, Laura
Bombier. I grew
up devouring
Nancy Drew
and The Hardy
Boys books. That
coupled with
Algonquin
my family and
design is a
experiencing
collaboration
endless outdoor
with worldadventures in
renowned
the Algonquin
photographer,
Wilderness gave
Laura Bombier
me a strong
appreciation for
the outdoors
as well as the
importance of
carrying with me
a well-made knife
my brothers and
father never went
anywhere without
one, says Laura
Bombier. The
collaboration with
Helle is a natural
fit as we share the
same philosophy
in design-quality and production value.y: Les Stroud
Each member of Helles tight knit team takes part in the creative
process from initial concepts to final designs, but the true
inspiration comes from experiences outside of work with friends
and colleagues. By the same token, the vision for the Algonquin
knife started several years ago after a cold winter snowshoe and a
good meal shared among friends at Bombiers Muskoka cabin. As
our group reflected on the seasonal beauty of Canadas Algonquin
Park and the importance of self-sufficiency in the backcountry, the

concept for the Algonquin knife was born, says Anders Haglund,
Director of Sales and Marketing for Helle.
Handmade in Norway using darkened oak, curly birch and red
leather inserts, the handle shape features a slight pommel at the
end, as well as a small finger guard and thumb notch for maximum
dexterity and superior handling. The 69 mm blade is made with
Helles triple laminated stainless steel for unparalleled strength,
sharpness and corrosion protection.
Weight: 60g
Triple laminated stainless steel
Handle: darkened oak, curly birch and leather
Genuine leather sheath
Weight sheath: 30g
Thickness: 2.8mm
Length handle: 92mm
Length blade: 69mm
Bushcraft Show Tickets

Adult Day Ticket Prices from 16 shop.bushcraftmagazine.
com
What does a bushcraft branded product mean? The Bushcraft

Branded range is the best of its kind, featuring the best
specification from a range of products that we have sourced and
put our stamp on, or had created to our design and specification
to bring you the best of the bestcombined with new and unique
features. Quality workmanship, the best materials and bespoke
unique features born from using the products in the wilds entitle
the products in our range to bear the Bushcraft Branded logo - the
B from the Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine's masthead.
2015
With a tried and tested Scandi-Grind the knife comes razor sharp,
The spine is left squared for use with a firesteel or for scraping,
with the lever being rounded off on bothsides for
comfortwhen opening and closing the knife. The
handle is made from green Micarta with an orange
G10 centre band, so is very stable and the blade
bears our branded B and the maker, Ben Orford's
stamp on the other side.
A jam-packed, three-day
event filled with amazing
bushcraft activities that will
take you, your friends and
family on a bushcraft and
survival adventure that youll
never forget. Whether you
come for the day or stay for
Photo by Dave Mangan
the weekend, you can try
your hand at woodland crafts,
firelighting, shelter building,
tracking, foraging, woodland games and so much more...
Childrens tickets are for ages 5 to 17 years. Under 5's go FREE.
Having used and reviewed many knives over the

years and discussed the design and functionality of
many with readers, show visitors, bushcraft & survival
instructors, game keepers, forestry workers and
survival celebrities, we have come to the conclusion
that this is the ultimate in compact, folding knife
design.
The ultimate folding bushcraft knife, lightweight,
compact and functional
Bushcraft Branded Keyring

3.95 (Free P&P) shop.bushcraftmagazine.com
Bushcraft Branded Ultimate

Folding Knife - 'Legal Carry'
185 (Free P&P) shop.bushcraftmagazine.com
A great little stocking filler from the Bushcraft Branded Range

handcrafted by Lois Orford. The Bushcraft Branded leather 'teardrop' keyring is made from our 'wilderness green leather, has the
'B' embossed into it and comes with a silver coloured split ring for
attaching to your keys or other items.
magazine 67
BUSHCRAFT
BUSHCRAFT&&survival
survivalskills
skillsmagazine
67
Forge a Viking Neck Knife at The

Bushcraft Show 2015
65 shop.bushcraftmagazine.com
Under the instruction of AUTINEs founder and master blade-smith
John Neemanyou can forge a Viking Neck Knife, branded with your
own initials to treasure for a lifetime and pass onto your posterity!
John Neeman is a bladesmith from Latvia who has achieved
his reputation by manufacturing some of the best performing
woodworking tools in the world. Axes, chisels, drawknives and
other craftsman tools made by John and his team are used by
experts of industry in more than ten countries. Johns route to
success started with his interest in metalworking technologies and
knowledge about the work methods of ancient bladesmiths, which
he acquired from many experts. After obtaining special education
in Latvia and engineering studies in Denmark, John Neeman
returned to his homeland and founded a new and creative team of
professionals and established the company AUTINE.
These sessions are VERY popular so book early to avoid

disappointment so that you can walk away from the show with
the satisfaction that you have created a tool that will serve you for
many years to come and can be passed on to future generations
Only four people per session
Duration: 1 - 2 hrs
(Please note time and duration may vary due to skill set)
Bushcraft Branded Leather Belt

From 57 (Free P&P) shop.bushcraftmagazine.com
A lovely Christmas gift from the Bushcraft Branded Range

handcrafted by Lois Orford. The Bushcraft Branded leather belt is
made from our 'wilderness green leather, has the 'B' embossed into
it and comes with a silver coloured buckle to match the other items
of leather-craft in our range. The belt has orange detail stitching
and a free moving tuck loop.
Silky Pocket Boy Saw and Bushcraft

Branded Leather Holster
A great compact
folding saw with an
attractive wilderness
green leather holster
with a dropper
belt loop and silver
coloured hardware,
hand made by Lois
Orford. The saw
has an orange 550
paracord lanyard
which locates into
a notch in the case
for added security
ensuring that even
on the toughest trek
your saw is safe. The
Pocket Boy makes
light work of cutting
branches leaving a
really nice clean cut that wont get infected. It has fine teeth, ten
per inch to ensure that the cut is left neat and tidy, either on the
living tree/ shrub or to enhance the crafted item.
Branded Bushcraft Finnish

Skillet
Small 29 Large 39 shop.bushcraftmagazine.com
The frying pan has always been regarded as a necessity for the
Finnish Outdoorsman, everyone would carry their own and it
would be used to cook in and eat from. An old Finnish guide
book writes: Pan needs to be steel and sufficiently high edge.
KUPILKA means a little cup and the word stems from the Finnish
word kuppi. It also refers to a term used by Finnish people
decades ago, when men and women warmed up their hands with
their kupilka or little cup by drinking hot beverages during the
rough Finnish winters. These are available in the new Cranberry
red, or Conifer green colours and of course Original (brown) and
come with the Bushcraft Branded logo.
The red and green products are only available from shop.
bushcraftmagazine.com so, if you want an eco friendly, colourful,
seasonal Christmas gift that will be treasured and last for many
years take a look now as stocks are limited.
Edge must be sloped, not vertical, because pancakes need to

slide on it, when turned by throwing. For handle user can cut
right length branch from woodland. There are two sizes, 23cm
diameter with a base of 17cm and 30cm diameter with a base of
23cm, both are made from 0,75mm Rautaruukki steel and have a
Birch handle.
Finnish Loue Shelter

From 110
shop.bushcraftmagazine.com
The Loue is a traditional Sami shelter from Finland, there have
been attempts to remake the Loue by a few small companies,
but none have the original design drawings and an original
shelter to work from. The story behind the original, traditional
Loue shelter that we sell is amazing and can be found at: shop.
bushcraftmagazine.com The shelter that you see here derives
straight from the Sami culture with the word loue meaning half
lavvu. Available in two sizes with a special limited canvas model.
KETTLECHARGE
159.95 http://www.whitbyandco.co.uk/biolite/camping/blkckettlecharge
You may be familiar with the BioLite stove that we have reviewed
in the magazine, which converts heat from the fire into
Bushcraft Branded Kuksa (Mug)

- Kupilka 21
KUPILKA products were designed by Kari Kuisma together with a
well-known Finnish architect and designer Heikki Koivurova.
magazine 69
BUSHCRAFT
BUSHCRAFT&&survival
survivalskills
skillsmagazine
69
usable electricity. From the same company, the KettleCharge

provides off-grid power and potable water in a matter of minutes.
Unlike solar panels, the KettleCharge is ready night or day, and at
10 watts, it will charge USB devices as fast as a wall outlet, even
tablets. You can use the kettle on any stove and even the hob in
your kitchen. Just fill, heat, charge.
Casstrom No
11 Field saw Black
29.95
www.casstrom.co.uk
The No 11 Casstrm Field
Saw has an 11cm long
cutting edge. It allows you
to open the chest cage
and pelvic bone on larger
game safely and quickly
without puncturing the gut or making unintended damage. The
teeth on the saw have been precision ground for fast and efficient
cutting. The end of the blade has been rounded off and features
a safety tip. The saw blade is made using a high quality stainless
blade steel that makes the saw very durable but also easy to clean
in a hygienic way. The handle is made from precision milled,
impact resistant and weatherproof G10 laminated glass fibre. This
material does not absorb any blood or liquids and is very strong
and durable.
The saw comes with a sturdy Cordura nylon belt pouch
Small Viking Axe Game

135 (Free P&P) shop.bushcraftmagazine.com
Paul Alford (originally from England) has been over to England and
forged at The Bushcraft Show representing Grnsfors Bruk where
he works as their master smith, hand crafting the specialist axes.
Responsible for the giant axe
pictured on the cover of and
featured in issue 40 of Bushcraft
and Survival Skills Magazine,
Alford has now turned his
attention to smaller things
The Small Viking Axe Game to be
precise! Hislatest project is the
creation of a fun game for the
home environment. Developed
by Helsinge Design Limited the
game is produced in his local
area in Helsingland, Sweden, a
landscape built on old Swedish
culture, history and mystery.
Thecomplete Viking Box Set
includes everything you need.
Hang up the target, remove the
axes from the leather holster, find
your throw distance and let the
fun begin!
Made from natural, recyclable
materials it comes packaged in a
solid wooden box.
The box set contains:
1 target
3 throwing axes
1leather holster for the axes
3 spare axe handles
1 competition manual
Knife and Tool Sharpener Ken

Onion Edition
169.95 www.casstrom.co.uk
Work Sharp invented the original Knife and Tool
Sharpener that revolutionised knife sharpening,
now they have teamed up with renowned US knife
maker and designer Ken Onion to deliver the ultimate
sharpening solution for your home or workshop.
The Work Sharp Knife & Tool Sharpener Ken Onion

Edition is designed to sharpen every knife you own
and even your axes! Using a fully adjustable precision
sharpening guide, variable speed and wide flexible
abrasive belts it sharpens pocket & hunting knives,
serrated knives, kitchen knives and any other shape
or type of blade you own. Professional blade makers
like Ken Onion use flexible belts to put a razor sharp
edge on their blades, now you can have the same
technology in your home or workshop.
magazine 71
BUSHCRAFT
BUSHCRAFT&
&survival
survivalskills
skillsmagazine
71
BUSHCRAFT HISTORY
THE AMERICAN
FRONTIERSMAN
Uluru Australian land mark. This place is also a
andimportant
the role
of Woodcraft
very
Aboriginal
sacred site. skills in trade and exploration in North America
AUTHOR PROFILE:
Lisa Fenton
Lisa Fenton has a long established background
in wilderness skills education and practice. She
co-founded the internationally respected bushcraft
school Woodsmoke in 2001, with her partner Ben
McNutt. As an ethnobotanist and ethnobiologist,
Lisa is currently writing her doctoral thesis
concerning bushcraft and indigenous knowledge.
Lisa has travelled extensively, taught many
individuals and is passionate about learning from
those cultures who still retain a skilled knowledge
of how the natural landscape can directly support
human life, culture and spirit.
The Frontiersmen of North America continue to provide

inspiration for bushcraft practitioners today. The ways in
which they lived, travelled and traded beyond the bounds of
early settlement, required that they develop the skills of the
backwoodsman to travel light and be self-sufficient on long
journeys through trackless wilderness.
n order to develop such skills, European fur traders gleaned

much from the indigenous inhabitants. Yes, of course the
Europeans brought with them what we in the West often
assume as superior technology, such as pots and steel tools,
but these technologies in themselves did not make it possible
for European traders and explorers to traverse the borderlands
and wilderness of North America. Rather, it was the adoption
of First Nation technologies (such as birch bark canoes and
snow shoe technology, for example) and ways of living, which
enabled Europeans to explore for resources and trade for furs.
The very idea of the 'frontier' is an elastic one; the frontier was a
moving boundary between the civilising forces of Euro-American
colonisation and the wilderness that was the
abode of 'savages' (to use the thoughts of
the time). The words Frontiersman and
pioneer wer the
earliest to enter common circulation to describe individuals who

used their knowledge and skill to live in the bush.

The early pioneers of the American frontier were mostly traders,
such as the French 'Coureurs de bois, which means runner of
the woods These early French traders ventured into the woods
of North America in order to trade European items for valuable
furs, highly prized in the making of the wide-brimmed top hats
that were the urbane European fashion of the day. Of these furs,
beaver pelts were the most highly prized. In this way, the Coureurs
de bois represented the rough outriders of French expansion and
discovery, continuously pushing westward in search of furs and
new trade.
However, in the
process of trading with
the local indigenous
populations, the French
also began to learn and
adopt First Nation or
Indian practices. This
interaction with the
native population was
so valued for trade and
settlement that during
the first quarter of the
seventeenth century
Canadian explorer and
founder of Quebec City,
Samuel de Champlain,
arranged to have many
young men travel
from France to take up
residence with the local
indigenous people. The
aim was to learn their
language and culture
and skills to be better
able to adapt to life
in North America. By
1681, the unregulated
Coureurs de bois who
had thus far traded
autonomously were to become the more legitimate 'Voyageurs' as
the French authorities introduced a system of strict regulation and
permits in order to prevent the old style Coureurs de bois from
flooding the fur market (R.E. Riendeau, A brief history of Canada
2007).
The importance of the local indigenous peoples as guides and
helpers emerges most clearly in the French accounts, particularly
in the first reports from Jesuit missionaries in the field (known
as the Jesuit Relations), who were sent to North America for the
purposes of the religious conversion of various Native American
tribes. Observations
and the imitation of
aboriginal methods
and technologies
for travel, such as
use of the birch bark
canoe in summer
and the snowshoe
and moccasin in
winter were of
central importance,
and perhaps at
least as valuable to
Europeans as direct
native assistance.
French fur trader and
explorer, Pierre-Esprit
Radisson, provided
one of the most
vivid accounts of life
among the Huron and Mohawk in the mid-17th century and his
explorations with Mdard Chouart Des Groseilliers were to have
profound commercial significance. In the course of their general
explorations, they discovered that the best furs came from the
Cree Indians, who lived near the Bay of the North Sea (Hudson
Bay). Groseilliers and Radisson considered that the best route for
these furs was not the long canoe journey to the St Lawrence
and Montral, but the shorter route north to Hudson Bay, and,
from there, dispatched to Europe by ship. On returning from their
successful exploration, having attained a large amount of prime
furs, Radisson and Groseilliers were heavily fined by the French
authorities due to the unlicensed nature of their trading. Incensed
at the fine levied at them despite of their new discovery, Radisson
and Groseilliers were motivated to take their discovery, not to the
French, but to the English.
In this way and despite the French stronghold, by 1670 this
resulted in the establishment of the (English) Hudson Bay
Company (HBC). However, the HBC showed a lack of interest
in funding further inland
explorations until 1690 to
1692, when it sent Henry
Kelsey on an expedition
with the Cree Indians who
succeeded in reaching the
Saskatchewan River. This
was a busy waterway for
indigenous trade, providing
access to the Great Plains,
which contained buffalo
and with an aboriginal
population that included the
Blackfoot Indians. Kelsey's
achievement was mostly
owed to his knowledge of the
Cree language and the way in
which he learned to live and
travel with the native peoples.
Being the first European to
reach the Canadian prairies, Kelsey was the first to leave a written
description of the grizzly bear and bison. For long afterwards the
only English interior explorations of any significance from Hudson
Bay were those of William Stuart (1715-16) and Richard Norton
(1717-18) who travelled northwestward among the Chipewyan
people (W. Stewart Wallace, The Macmillan Dictionary, of Canadian
Biography 1926).
magazine 73
BUSHCRAFT
BUSHCRAFT&&survival
survivalskills
skillsmagazine
73
BUSHCRAFT HISTORY
It was not until some 60 years later that Anthony Henday, in

1754-55, probed deeper inland. His method of travelling and his
objectives were much the same as Kelsey's. Similarly to Kelsey, he
lived with an aboriginal woman, and followed the Cree along their
canoe route from York Factory to the lower Saskatchewan River,
across the South Branch and the North Branch, to the great buffalo
herds of the plains and the horsed Blackfoot (James Grierson
MacGregor, Behold the shining mountains: being an account of the
travels of Anthony Henday, 1754-1755, 1954). In 1774, with explorer
Samuel Hearne in charge, the Hudson Bay Company moved inland
and built its first interior trading post in Saskatchewan. Hearne
was eventually and famously tasked with the search for a possible
copper mine. The basic theme of Hearne's three journey is his total
dependence on indigenous people who knew the land and how
to live off it. His first attempted journey failed when the guides
began to anticipate starvation and after Hearnes guide deserted
he did not have the skills to continue alone and was forced to turn
back. During his second journey he met the Chipewyan hunter
and leader Matonabbee, who, crucially, was to be his guide on his
third and most ambitious and successful journey. Matonabbee, it
is thought, may well have saved Hearne from freezing or starving
to death. During his third journey Hearne travelled as the only
European in the party, alongside a group of Chipewyan guides
led by Matonabbee. I find it intriguing that these explorations and
discoveries are often conceived of as being led by Europeans and
yet the evidence is clear, as illustrated by this case, that Hearne,
whilst capable, was far more reliant on the indigenous people that
guided and looked after him than the converse (Samuel Hearne, A
Journey from Prince of Wales's Fort in Hudson's Bay to the Northern
Ocean, 1795).
In 1793 Alexander Mackenzie became the first European to
cross the Canadian Rockies and much like Hearne, he enlisted a
Chipewyan guide, who was known as English Chief. However the
difficulty of his route into the Rockies meant that its discovery was
of little commercial importance. It was not until the 1820s that
the era of Mountain man fur trading really took hold. Whilst the
Voyageurs transported their furs via birch-bark canoe through the
extensive river systems, explorers such as Mackenzie began to open
up new routes into the Rocky Mountains, travelling by horseback.
Fur trappers soon followed. The mountainous terrain required new
skills and furs were now transported using packhorses rather than
canoe. The era of the mountain man opened just as the commercial
enterprise of trapping was climaxing. Some men were free-trappers
while others worked for companies such as the Rocky Mountain
Fur Company and the Hudson Bay Company. Frances Victor notes
that the trappers employed by the Hudson Bay company were
generally well-received by the indigenous peoples on account of
many employees being full or half-blood Indians themselves,
and those who were French were also well-received on account
of their suavity of manner and the ease with which they adapted
themselves to savage life. (Frances Fuller Victor, River of the West,
1870).

The biographies of mountain men capture the competitive nature
of their lives, with more than a hint of exaggeration, as each
trapper claimed to possess the best horse, having had the wildest
adventures and the narrowest escapes. George Ruxton, a Canadian
hunter who spent time as a Mountain man and who wrote articles
called Life in the Far West for Backwoods Magazine, provides the
definitive sketch of the mountain man stereotype when he notes
in his later book Adventures in Mexico and the Rocky Mountains
(London 1847):
The trappers of the Rocky Mountains belong to a genus more
approximating to the primitive savage than perhaps any other class
of civilized man. Their lives being spent in the remote wilderness
of mountains, with no other companion than Nature herself, their
habits and character assume a most singular caste of simplicity
mingled with ferocity

their sole care is to
procure sufficient food
to support life, and
the necessary clothing
to protect from the
rigorous climateThey
may have good qualities
but they are those of
the animal; and people,
fond of giving them
hard names call then
revengeful, bloodthirsty,
drunkenin fact
White Indians (cited
in H. L. Carter, & M.C.
Spencer, Stereotypes
of the Mountain Man
The Western Historical
Quarterly 1975, p21).
Jerked meat
Through the
interactions between
these mountain
men and indigenous
populations, in the name of trade, the place of the trapper in American society became almost a third category, not quite Indian but not
entirely White either. This hybrid culture of the frontier thus formed an important location, both historically and geographically, from

which much bushcraft and
woodcraft practice and skill later
emerged to be codified and
written down in woodcraft
manuals and texts. What is
more, the hardy character
of the Euro-American
frontiersman, who was
both valorised and
denigrated for
his Indian ways,
later formed an
archetype of
masculinity of
freedom, virility,
and self-reliance essential aspects of
American identity.
Success in exploring
the frontiers of North
America, both in
this era and before
lay in the hands of
those European and American explorers who were committed to learning skills from the local
populations, reflected by the detailed accounts of the Native Americans they encountered, lived
and travelled with. Through their admiration and respect for the indigenous North Americans,
European explorers developed an ability to travel and live for extended periods in wild
and unmapped regions. Their skills as woodsmen are significant in the history of European
exploration, but it was their indigenous counterparts that were truly responsible for guiding
and enabling such explorers.

The development of European backwoodsmanship or woodcraft on the North American
frontier was not only advantageous for the success of trade and exploration, but also
for the brutal process of European martial expansion, conquest and colonisation
across the whole of North America. In the next article I will look at how woodcraft
and bushcraft developed in the context of martial developments on the frontier of
America and elsewhere.
magazine 75
BUSHCRAFT
BUSHCRAFT&&survival
survivalskills
skillsmagazine
75
Where your hunger for adventure grows

When? 23-25 May 2015*
*Weekend ticket holders can arrive from 12noon on

Friday 22 May 2015
NEW
LOCATION!
Where?
NEW LOCATION
Beehive Farm Woodland Lakes, Lullington Road, Rosliston, Derbyshire, DE12 8HZ
Colonel John
BlashfordSnell OBE
Whats on
Meet Survival Legend, John Lofty
Wiseman, author of the SAS Survival Handbook. A once in a lifetime opportunity
to walk with free-running wolves. Join a wolf hybrid pack, learn evolution, physiology, social
structure, communication and conservation of the wolf, intricacy of social ranking and the subtle art of
canine communication on a magical walk through the woodlands as part of the pack. We also have one
of the worlds most renowned and highly respected explorers, Colonel John Blashford-Snell OBE, former
British Army Officer, explorer and author coming along to share his adventures and expedition advice. Enter
the UKs First Small Viking Axe Game Championship and test your axe throwing skills, visit our new Finnish
zone learn bushcraft traditions using Finnish kit with Finnish people.Try your hand at Whittling, Firelighting,
Shelter Building, Foraging, Woodland Crafts, Woodland Games, Axe Throwing, Archery, Rifle Shooting,
Flint Knapping, Leather Crafts, Open Canoeing, Knife Sharpening and Safe Use, Make a Sami Bracelet or
learn about Wilderness First Aid, Bushcraft Career Advice, Specialist Instruction Sessions, See & Handle Wild
Animals, Evening Entertainment & Campfire Music and see a host of Trade Stands, Watch & Learn From
Bushcraft Demonstrations, Meet Specialist Instructors, Listen to Expert Speakers and so much more...
2015
Win! A 50
V
spend on S oucher to
Instruction pecialist
at The Bush Activities
craft Show
2015.
To enter the co
mpe
tition, just qu
ticket over th
ote TBS1550
e phone or ad
when purchasi
d it into the no
ng your
the code to co
tes section on
mpetition@bu
line or email
shcraftmagaz
ine.com
(no purchase
necessary).
Competition en
ds 31st Decem
ber 2014
TICKET DETAILS
Advance Weekend Ticket:
Adult (18+)
95
Child (5-17 years inclusive)
40
Under 5's
FREE
2 Adult & 2 Children Family
240
1 Adult & 2 Children Family
145
Concession
80
(Senior Citizens and Students

with a NUS card)
Advanced Day Tickets:

Saturday
Adult (18+)
20
Sunday
20
Child (5-17 years inclusive) 8
Under 5's
FREE
FREE
2 Adult & 2 Children Family 52
52
40
1 Adult & 2 Children Family 30
30
25
Concession
16
14
(Senior Citizens and Students

with a NUS card)
FREE
16
Monday
16
Weekend Tickets include:Three Nights

Camping with Luxury Toilets & Showers,
Option for Open Fires, FREE Show Guide,
Evening Entertainment & Activities,
Souvenir Lanyard with 5 FREE passes for
Paid Activities or merchandise, an array of
FREE Activities, Demonstrations and Talks.
Weekend Ticket holders can arrive early
from12noonon Friday 22nd May 2015 and
depart by 8pmon Monday 26th May 2015.
Friday night evening entertainment now
included.
Day Tickets include:
FREE Show Guide
and an array of
FREE Activities,
Demonstrations and
Talks. Day visitors
must leave the site by
6.00pm.
Evening entertainment
day passes can be
purchase online or
at the show. Day
visitors with evening
entertainment passes
must leave the site by
11.15pm.
FREE TO BOOK ONLINE & RECEIVE YOUR eTICKET WITHIN MINUTES!

CALL 0333 4567 123 (OPTION 2) TO BOOK (2 booking fee applies)
For
more information

www.thebushcraftshow.co.uk
0333 4567 123 (option 2) bethere@thebushcraftshow.co.uk
Perfect for Dogs are

.
y
l
i
e
m
m
a
f
o
c
e
l
h
t
e
l
l
w
a
For show updates follow

The Bushcraft Show
BushcraftShow
COURSE REVIEW
A LOVE OF TRACKING...
By Simon Ellar
Course Title: Level 1 Man-tracking Course
Company: Frontier Bushcraft
Course Duration: 5 days
Cost: 749
Location: East Sussex
Instructors: David Scott-Donelan & Paul Kirtley
Outdoor Classroom
I love tracking, I have always been a very observant person
and good at finding things that have been lost, one such
item being my daughter's tooth while we were away on
holiday. One of her first teeth had come out and she was
saving it to put under her pillow, however she then lost
it in the sand of a play area which was mixed with white
toothlike remnants of shells and small rounded chippings
of white rock. You can imagine her excitement and my wife's
relief when I returned after a short while with the tooth!
While this was the only time I "tracked" a tooth, I have since
had the opportunity to attend some tracking courses and
can say that I have well and truly got the bug!
o run this level 1 Man-tracking course, Frontier Bushcraft

teamed up with David Scott-Donelan, a world leader in
visual man-tracking and instructor to the armed forces,
search and rescue teams, law enforcement officers, rangers,
naturalists, magazine editors and those who wish to develop their
knowledge and find enjoyment from tracking.
The course content was advertised as:
Basic Tracking Techniques

Rules of Tracking
Tracking Indicators Spoor and Sign
Micro Tracking
Dynamics of a Footprint
Interpreting Ground Spoor
Action Indicators
Field Expedient Height Assessment
Ericsson Method of Track Interpretation
Goals and Missions of the Tracking Team
Roles within the Tracking Team
Tracking Team Formations and Signals
Follow-up Procedures
Lost Spoor Procedures
Back Tracking
Following detailed lessons and briefings, the above course

syllabus will be developed and applied by the use of practical
exercises, including
Spoor Pit Exercises

Basic Tracking Exercises
Team Tracking Exercises
Exercises Employing Lost
Spoor Procedures
Extended Follow-ups
Did we do all of that? We sure did,

Davids teaching style was very
effective illustrating the skills taught
with real life stories and examples,
the hands on sessions and live
tracks were very informative and
the onus was on us to be really
sure of what we were seeing, it
was no easy ride. One of the more
humorous elements was after we
split into two teams and left tracks
through the spoor pit for the other
team to interpret, we were all
sent off and then called back to
magazine 79
BUSHCRAFT
BUSHCRAFT&&survival
survivalskills
skillsmagazine
79
COURSE REVIEW
A: Undisturbed Punk Wood
interpret what David and Paul had been up to in the spoor pit. The
marks were puzzling to say the least, we each had to study them
and come up with what had been happening before we could
leave for our dinner We had done some pretty crazy scenarios
ourselves including walking, stopping, kneeling facing east and
leaving a light forehead mark in the sand, someone dropping
a phone and someone else picking it up, people being carried,
leapfrog, but this one was designed to challenge. From analysing
the sign the scenario was that Paul Kirtley and David Scott-Donelan
had laid down, had an arm wrestle and we also deduced which
person was which, what they wore and who won!
I thoroughly enjoyed the week and learned lots, I really liked the
mix of classroom sessions under the parachute, the hands on
time at the spoor pit, the live tracks and the evening powerpoint
presentations looking at real life case studies. The course was very
well organised, well structured and the instruction was of a very
high standard. I can't wait to do the level 2 course with them!
B:
So, what did the others think? Here are some comments from some
of the other attendees
I attended this course with no previous experience of tracking. I
thought I would enjoy it, but had no idea it could be so addictive!
I booked the course because DSD is one of the world's most
accomplished tracking teachers; and it shows in his approach. On
day 1 many of us were complete beginners. He built our skill level
and confidence through the week and by the end, my team of 3
spent 8 hours tracking our quarry over a range of terrains. I now
find myself practicing my tracking when out on walks in the woods
much to the amusement of family and friends - I have definitely
caught the bug!
BEN GRAY
C:
When I embarked on this course with Frontier Bushcraft I wasn't
really sure what to expect. I had done a little animal tracking, but it
certainly wasn't a skill I was experienced in! After spending 3 days
with DSD at the bushcraft show earlier in the year I jumped at the
chance to learn from him. At the beginning of the week looking at
marks and signs in the spoor pit I wasn't convinced I'd ever be able
to read them and turn them into comprehensible information, but
by the end of the week when we were sent out in teams of 3 we were
tracking people for up to 2 miles! I was amazed! Learning from such
an experienced person in the field is a second to none opportunity.
It was hard work, but certainly worth it - and I now find myself
looking for spoor everywhere I go!!
SHERI LAKE
I recently took part in the level one tracking course with David
Scott-Donelan and Frontier Bushcraft. I thoroughly enjoyed it,
the course was very interesting from start to finish and has really
fired up an interest in tracking for me. The course was very well
put together with some theory and lots of practical scenarios and
tracking situations over varied terrain. David is an expert in his field
and a fantastic man. I have since got together with some of the
attendees from the course to practice the skills that we learnt, we
had a great weekend, did a live track following a poacher around a
1000 acre estate, finding rifle shells, shotgun cartridges, snares and
the like. We have another weekend planned for early November
STEF DOVE
Yes
A 'Gateway' in the terrain
Has someone walked along

these vehicle tracks recently
David Scott-Donelan
Flagging of vegetation
Paul Kirtley
Spoor Pit
magazine 81
BUSHCRAFT
BUSHCRAFT&&survival
survivalskills
skillsmagazine
81
Book Reviews
True Grit
by Bear Grylls
This is a collection of true stories of

men and women who have shown
courage and heroism in the most
extreme conditions imaginable. Bear
Grylls was prompted to write the
book after being continually asked
who his heroes were. Some of these
stories I had heard before, Ernest
Shackleton, Juliane Koepcke, Aron
Ralston, but most were new Captain
James Riley, Nancy Wake, Toni Kurz.
The conditions in which the men
and women of the book found
themselves were appalling and the
stories are roughly grouped by the
type of survival situation, from plane
crashes, desert survival, survival at
sea, wartime experiences (including
torture), mountain climbing, Arctic/
Antarctic survival. But what they have
in common is that they did not give up, they drew on reserves of
physical and mental strength and refused to be beaten.
Bushcraft 101: A Field Guide

to the Art of Wilderness
Survival
by Dave Canterbury
Dave Canterbury is a survival expert who has
co-starred with Cody Lundin on the TV series
Dual Survivor. He runs a survival school in Ohio
and has a dedicated fanbase for his Youtube
videos. This book is Dave Carterburys pick of
the most important bits of bushcraft, it has
taken me years of research and experiment to
discern which are the most valuable skills to
own and which are the most important items
to carry. The book is divided into two halves,
Part 1 Gearing Up has chapters on Your
Pack, Tools, Rope, Containers, Coverage and
Combustion, which I think is the strongest
section, while Part 2, In the Bush has
chapters on Setting up Camp, Navigation,
Trees and Trapping. I imagine Canterbury is
an excellent instructor, he chooses his words
carefully and the book is almost like the notes
of a good bushcraft course.
Compared to other guides this is written in a
very simple style. There are lots of headings so you can easily look
up exactly what you need, accompanied by simple line diagrams
which are superb. I even found the diagrams of knots and lashings
straightforward and thats saying something! From the title I
thought the book would only be suitable for absolute beginners
and it is true that a bushcraft enthusiast would already be aware of
much of the content, but it is well laid out and comprehensive, so
Reviewed By Elaine Gilboy
I actually found this difficult reading, its not just

that accounts of eating human flesh or drinking
camels urine are not for the faint hearted. Im not
usually sensitive, but I got a bit sad reading the
book, as even when the men and women survived
their ordeals (and not all in the book do, which
came as a bit of a shock), they underwent such
suffering that it changed them forever. Maybe I
would have done better with the abridged junior
edition!
While the book could be in danger of being
sensationalist, I found Bear Grylls retelling of each
story respectful, accurate (there are photos and
factual details you would not find in many other true
story compilations) and a real tribute. Bear Grylls is
best known for his survival television programmes
and while these are educational they are contrived
situations, but his thoughtful comments on each
story reminded me of his real survival experiences,
including breaking his back in a parachute accident
in 1996. This book has not been written to entertain,
but to inspire and if it made me sad, it also reminded me to put the
troubles of daily life into perspective and be grateful to live in a time
of peace in this green and pleasant land.
would be a good reference even for those with some experience.

I like how each chapter builds on the basics so in Navigation there
is a diagram of a compass, then how to follow a bearing and read a
map, before going step by step onto more complicated navigations.
Other guides usually skip the first bit, which
is fine as long as you have been taught
correctly, or until you have a mental block,
or are trying to teach a newbie. There are
certain things not covered such as finding
water or tracking, while plant ID is in a short
unillustrated appendix.
As the book is written in the US some specific
references to kit or trees dont really translate.
This is particularly true of the chapter on
trapping, theres not much call for a Bear trap
in Sussex and the few recipes - boiled beaver
anyone? Having said that it can be refreshing.
You wouldnt have a UK publication spend
so much time on the use of woollen blankets,
but as the American Frontier article in this
issue shows (page 72), they have been a
tried and tested part of US outdoors kit for
centuries. Each chapter opens with a quote
from an expert and many are from books on
camping from the early twentieth century,
which is a nice reminder that if it aint broke
dont fix it.
WIN A COPY OF THESE BOOKS.
WIN
theIN
se!
W
books!
Send in your details to win a copy of

one of thse books, detailing which you
would like to win.
T&Cs p3)
(see
BUSHCRAFT
&Survival
survival
skills
Follow
Bushcraft
&
Skills Magazine
on magazine
Facebook 82

Bushcraft Amp Amp Survival Skills - December UK

Uploaded by

Document Information

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Bushcraft Amp Amp Survival Skills - December UK

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Editor Simon Ellar

THE COLOURS OF AUTUMN...

Bushcraft & Survival Skills is an Environmentally

Printed by Buxton Press an

Cert no. TT-COC-2200

Tel: 0333 4567 123

Follow Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine on Facebook

4 BUSHCRAFT & survival skills magazine

Carve a Chrismassy Bowl

Win Light My Fire Firesteel & TinderDust

To view all the contributors visit www.bushcraftmagazine.com

BUSHCRAFT & survival skills magazine 5

Collins Gem pocket version. Another one to

Having lived in the Highlands I appreciate

For foraging, Food for Free by Richard Mabey is a good book to

Woodland Necklace Results

6 BUSHCRAFT & survival skills magazine

Follow Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine on Facebook

Happy Christmas to all our readers.

I am so glad that you enjoyed reading issue 52 and that you

I have always had an interest in bushcraft and survival

We have had many letters over the years similar to yours

Dyeing to try it!

Congratulations on winning the

After reading Jason Ingamells' article in the

You have done a super job, how

Thanks for a brilliant magazine,

Keep up the good work.

To win a Light My Fire Firesteel and

Follow Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine

With Christmas approaching what better craft project

8 BUSHCRAFT & survival skills magazine

Follow Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine on Facebook

Choose the most

Start with a straight grained log of suitable

Make 2 cuts where you would like the

Now mark out your handles and begin to carve

Now round off

BUSHCRAFT & survival skills magazine 9

Continue refining the shape and form in general until

Carving out the bowl:

10 BUSHCRAFT & survival skills magazine

Follow Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine on Facebook

BUSHCRAFT & survival skills magazine 11

SEASONAL COLOURS FOR

One day whilst sitting around the

up of 50% pine fiber (wood) and 50% plastic. If you compare it

The manufacture of the

12 BUSHCRAFT & survival skills magazine

Follow Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine on Facebook

Bushcraft Branded Kupilka Cutlery Set

A Kuksa is a handmade wooden drinking cup traditionally made by

Bushcraft Branded Kuksa (Mug) - Kupilka 21

Bushcraft Branded Large Plate - Kupilka 44

BUSHCRAFT & survival skills magazine 13

Bushcraft Branded Bowl Kupilka 55

With soups and stews being commonplace

Bushcraft Branded Kupilka Gift

Bushcraft Branded Kupilka Premium

All of the above are available in the new

14 BUSHCRAFT & survival skills magazine

Follow Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine on Facebook

suppose many of us who have children get them involved in

where she can't reach it without help and I sit