Bng so snh c tnh gia DiamondGreen, Cubic zirconia v kim cng

tht:
Ni dung DiamondGreen
Mu sc

D-F ti khng
mu

Kiu ct

8 tri tim, 8 mi
tn
(Heart & Arrow)

chiu 2.24

Phn trm 85% carbon trn

Carbon
b mt

cng

9.1

Cubic
Kim
Phn tch
Zirconia
cng
D-F ti
Ty gi
khng mu
DiamondGreen
lun ct kiu 8
Ty gi
Ty gi tri tim, 8 mi
tn p nht
hin nay.
DiamondGreen
c chiu
2.15
2.42
sng gn bng
kim cng
tht.
DiamondGreen
c 85% carbon
100% trn b mt
Khng c
carbon nn cng hn
CZ v khng
bm bn.
8.5
10
cng 9.1

nh la
(Fire)

Ln nh la

Khng

trn b mt
DiamondGreen
Ln nh ln nh la
la
nh kim cng
tht.

lc v Moissanite:
Moissanite l loi Silicon Carbide hoc Carborundum c sn xut bi phng nghin cu C3 v
Cree. Moissanite ln u tin c gii thiu trn th trng n trang vo nm 1998. Moissanite
c ly theo tn nh ha hc ngi Php Henry Moissan, ng ot gii Nobel ha hc vo
nm 1906 khi ng tm ra mt loi khong vt mi t nhng mnh v thin thch trong mt ci
h thin thch c tn l Barringer gn Winslow, Arizona. Moissanite ch c tm thy trong
thin thch c thnh phn st-niken, v c phn lai nh l mt nguyn t hn l mt hp cht
Moissanite c cng theo bng Mohs l 9,5, trong khi cng ca kim cng l 10.
Moissanite c chit sut kp v thng s chit sut l 2.65 n 2.69. bn ca Moissanite cc
k tt. Moissanite tng hp khng mu th hin ging nh kim cng khng mu v n gy ra
nhiu kh khn trong vic nhn bit hn CZ (Cubic Zirconia). Khi dng bt th kim cng s
bo l kim cng thin nhin. chiu v nh la u hn hn kim cng thin nhin.
Moissanite ang rt c u chung M, gi ch bng 1/15-1/20 so vi kim cng thin nhin

2: Nhn bit Moissanite:

Da vo tnh cht khng ng hng (chit sut kp) ca Moissanite, khi thc hin nghin cu
trn mu moissanite phi nhn xuyn vo nhng mt cnh diu ta mi thy c nh kp ca cc
mp gic. Kim cng th ng hng (chit sut n) vi gi tr chit sut 2.417. Moissanite c

chit sut 2.670, v th tn sc ca moissanite rt cao so vi cubic zirconia l 0.060 v kim

cng l 0.044
3: So snh vi thng s k thut gia Moissanite v Kim cng

S tn sc: S tn sc nh sng ca Moissanite phu thu c vo chit sut kp

Mu sc: Moissanite c mu pht vng v cp mu thng t G-J

Mc rn nt: Moissanite hu nh t rn nt hn kim cng

V s khc x: Moissanite c chit sut kp, cn kim cng c chit sut n

Ch s chit sut : Moissanite c ch s l 2.670, Ch s ca kim cng l 2.417

4:Ti sao nn chn Moissanite :

chiu sng v nh la hn c kim cng:

Bc nh ny th hin l do ti sao sng chi v nh la ca Moissanite lm cho n s hu

mt v p lung linh hn bt k vin ngc no khc v bn s thy l do ti sao n khng
ging nh bt k vin ngc no tng nhn thy

Hnh minh ha bn trn Moissanite(tri) v Kim Cng(phi) :

So snh vin 1carat moissanite vi vin 1carat kim cng trong nc vi cng mt cng
nh sng chiu ln chng.Mc chiu sng ca Moissanite c hin th theo vng m vt

xa hn kim cng.nh la ca moissanite c hin th bng nhng vt sng trn nn quang

ph cng rc r hn kim cng
Moissanite c to ra bi Charles & Colvard l mt vin ngc tuyt p v c o.
chiu sng, nh la rc r, bng v cng khng th tin c lm cho n khng ging
nh bt k vin ngc no bn tng nhn thy. Vi mc chiu sng v nh la cao cp nh
vy, khi bn s hu n trang nh moissanite, bn s ngay lp tc thu ht c s ch v
quan tm ca tt c mi ngi t ci nhn u tin! Moissanite ban u c sinh ra t mt
ngi sao. Tuy nhin, cc tinh th t nhin l qu nh s dung trong trang sc. Ngy
nay, vi s kt hp tinh t gia ngh thut v khoa hc to ra cc sn phm Moissanite
c o sn sng phuc vu cho nhu cu lm p sang trng v qu phi cho tt c mi ngi

Vin ngc qu sinh ra t mt ngi sao

Vin ngc tuyt p ny c mt qu kh rc r. Nm mi nghn nm trc, mt thin

thch m vo sa mc Arizona to ra nhng h sao bng. Nhng mnh v ca thin thch
ny c ri ri rc trn sa mc. n su trong cc mnh v ny l mt b mt tuyt vi
ang ch c pht hin

c khm ph trn Tri t

Nm 1893, nh khoa hc ot gii Nobel Henry Moissan bt u nghin cu nhng mnh

v ca thin thch ny t vng gn Diablo Canyon. Trong cc mnh v ny, Tin s Moissan
pht hin s lng t mt khong cht mi lung linh, vi chiu sng v nh la rc r
cha tng thy trn tri t. Sau khi nghin cu su rng, Tin s Moissan kt lun rng
khong cht ny c tao ra t Silicon Carbide. Trong nm 1905, khong sn ny c t
tn l Moissanite, vinh danh ng
Qu trnh pht trin ca Moissanite
Vo cui nhng nm 1980, ly cm hng t khm ph ca Tin s Moissan, cng ty Cree
Bc Carolina pht trin mt qui trnh c quyn sn xut cc tinh th ln duy nht ca
Moissanite.Ma h nm 1995, mt chuyn gia mi ct qu quan st cc mu moissanite
v a ra phng php ct chun c th to ra mt vin ngc mi vi nh sng lung linh v
rc r. Trong vng vi ngy, cc nh khoa hc t Cree v Charles & Colvard bt u mt d
n nghin cu ba nm kt hp moissanite vo trang sc phuc vu cho chng ta ngy nay

5: So snh Moissanite v kim cng theo tiu chun 4C:

Phng php ct:

Moissanite

Mi vin Moissanite c to ra bi Charles & Colvard u do mt i ng chuyn gia

mi ct qu ct tay v c hiu chun chnh xc nhm t c mc chiu sng ti
a v nh la rc r nht. Phng php ct chun Round Brilliant c s dung ph bin
nht cho Moissanite
Kim Cng
Phng php ct kim cng cp n t l gia cc gic ct. Trong tiu chun 4C, cch
ct l kha cnh trc tip chu nh hng ca con ngi. Ba yu t cn li c quyt
nh bi t nhin. Rt nhiu ngi nhm ln gia cch ct kim cng vi hnh dng bn
ngoi ca n. Kim cng c ct thnh nhiu hnh dng khc nhau ty theo hnh th
bn ngoi ban u ca vin kim cng th. Cho d c hnh dng g, mt vin kim cng
c mi ct tt ngha l n phi t c phn chiu nh sng cao nht. chiu
sng v nh la ca vin kim cng c quyt nh bi kh nng phn x nh sng ca
n. Kim cng thng c ct vi 57 mt phng ring bit theo mt t l ton hc chnh
xc. Mi quan h t l ny c thit k ti a ha lng nh sng phn x qua vin
kim cng v tng v p ca n

Mu sc
Moissanite
Trn thang mu theo tiu chun GIA th Moissanite nm khu vc near-colorless. Ch c
nhng sn phm Moissanite t c chun mu ny v xp hng tnh trng VG-Very
Good mi c by bn cng ty chng ti
Kim Cng
Mu sc ca kim cng cng a dng, ty theo mu sc ngi ta chia kim cng thnh
hai nhm khng mu v c mu. Nhm khng mu gm nhng vin kim cng hon
ton khng mang mu cho n mu vng rt nht. loi khng mu (Cape), mu c

phn cp v c biu din bng cc mu t bt u bng ch D (hon ton khng mu,

thng gi l nc D) cho n Z (mu sm dn, c mu vng nht), gi tr ca kim
cng cng gim theo tng ca mu vng. Di tc dung ca tia cc tm UV, thng
c nhiu trong nh nng ban mai, mt s kim cng (loi m trong cu trc ca kim
cng c Nitrogen tp trung li thnh nhm) c hin tng pht hunh quang mu lam
nh s ha vi mu vng ca vin tr thnh trng hn v lm cho vin c th
nhn nh sai, tng ln vi nc
Bng phn cp mu theo tiu chun ca GIA :

sch
Moissanite
Moissanite do Chardles&Covard sn xut u tun th nghim ngt tiu chun phn cp
sch theo GIA mc VS1-2 (very slightly included), ngha l tp cht rt nh, rt
kh thy khi quan st di knh lp 10x v mt thng. Ch nhng vin Moissanite c
xp loi rt sch mi c by bn
Kim cng
sch dng phn cp vin qua s hin din, s lng v kch thc ca nhng tp
cht (bn trong) cng nh nhng khim khuyt b mt (bn ngoi). Rt him kim cng
khng c khuyt im no, ngha l khng tm thy mt tp cht hay khuyt im b mt
no cho d quan st di loupe 10X bi mt ngi giu kinh nghim. Nu cc tiu chun
nh gi khc cng tt nh vy, vin s t gi tr cao nht

F (hay FL) Flawless: khng tp cht. Quan st di loupe 10X

IF (Internally Flawless): khng tp cht bn trong. Quan st di loupe 10X
VVS1-2(Very very slightly included): tp cht cc nh, rt kh thy
VS1-2 (Very slightly included): tp cht rt nh, kh thy
SI1-2 (Slightly included): tp cht nh, d thy
I1 (Included): tp cht ln, d thy (bng loupe 10X v mt trn)
I2-3(Included): tp cht ln, d thy (bng mt trn)

Trng lng
Moissanite
ph hp vi cc thit lp sn c, ngi ta thng dng n v mm i vi Moissanite
v thng qua mm tnh ra s cara. V du mt vin Moissanite 6.5 mm dng mi trn
chiu (round brilliant cut) s nng khong 0.87 carat do trng lng ring ca Moissanite
l 3.21
Kim cng
Trng lng ca kim cng c tnh bng carat. C 5 carat trong mt gam. Mt carat
c chia thnh 100 points.
1 carat = 1.00 carat = 100 points
1/2 carat = 0.50 carat = 50 points
1/4 carat = 0.25 carat = 25 points

Cng mt trng lng, cht lng v mu sc v sch, th du mt vin 5ct c gi t

hn mt l 5 vin 1ct
Diamond - Kim cng
Kim cng gic ct n hong (Princess)

Tn dung u im v chiu su mang li v rc r m cc tinh th nh b mt. y

l cch thc ct thnh cng nht cui th k 20.
Cch ct n hong l mt kiu ct kh mi xut hin trn th trng vo cui nhng
nm 1970. Trong nhiu nm, quyt nh v vn hnh dng v gc cnh cho vin
qu da trn v p ti a trong khi phi b i t nguyn liu nht. L mt s kt
hp ca v p v vic s dung nguyn liu hiu qu, th hin ngay tn gi ca n,
cch ct n hong tr thnh phng php ct thnh cng nht vo thi k cui th
k 20. Cc mt c sp xp theo mt phong cch ti sng, cho php n th hin
c s rc r v sc so ca vin . B mt ca cch ct ny nm trong hnh dng
vung vc ca n, v cc chi tit chm khc phc tp m rng ra 4 gc khin n lp
lnh mt cch p .
nh gi chic nhn c gn 9 vin kim cng ct nh c thy trong bc hnh
bn di. Nhng vin kim cng c t m khng c bt c khong cch no gia
chng, nh nhng hng ca s vung trn 1 ta nh hin i ta sng trong nng. Khi
nhiu mt trn rc r c t cnh nhau trn cng mt b mt, s lun lun c vi
khong cch gia chng. Cch ct kim cng a ra gii php cho vn v thit k
ny.
Nhng lt ct n hong l nhng lt ct su, cho php chng t c v rc r p
v mnh m. Tn dung u im ca dy ny s mang li sn phm rc r, m
khng lm mt nhiu trng lng trong sut qu trnh ch tc.
Trong khi 1 vin tinh th th 1.5 carat c th c ct thnh 1 vin kim 1 carat theo
cch ct n hong, th ch tc 1 vin c kch thc tng t theo cch ct trn rc r
ch t mc 0.7 carat. Nhng gc cnh m vin c th c vi hn ch ti a vic
mt trng lng l 1 c tnh quan trng ca cch ct n hong.
Nhng lt ct n hong lm cho mu sc xut hin m hn, v nhng vin mu vng
tr nn c mu mnh hn so vi khi n c ct theo cch ct emerald. Do , cch
ct ny thng c s dung cho kim cng vng. S rc r mnh m ny cng che
i nhng khuyt im, lm cho n tr thnh 1 thnh phn cao cp s dung trong
trang sc.

Mt iu cn lu vi cch ct n hong l nhng g cnh c th b long v ri ra.

Do nhng gc ct kh mm, nn nhng khu vc xung quanh n c th d dng v tnh
ri ra trong qu trnh t vin .

Tn khong vt : Diamond
cng Mohs :10
Chit sut :2.417
T trng :3.52
Kim cng gic ct tri l Pear

Hnh dng ny thng c thy nhng vin kim cng ln, v s cc tia sng y
mu sc nh cu vng phn chiu c nhn thy thm ch t rt xa.
Hnh tri l (i khi gi l hnh git l) rt d thy nhng vin kim cng c kch
thc ln c mi da hin nay. Hnh dng ny trng c v to hn hnh trn, mc
d cng trng lng, v mi nhng vin kim cng ln theo cch ny th rt hiu qu.
Hnh tri l ln thng c t chnh gia trn chui ht eo c v m min. Mt
vin kim cng hnh tri l t trn vng min s lp lnh rc r vi s phn chiu
mu sc nh mu cu vng mi khi ngi i n di chuyn, v c th d dng nhn
thy t khong cch 30 feet hoc hn. Bn thn kim cng s hu mt v p
ng k, nhng cng khng nghi ng g v v p khng khim khuyt ca kim
cng hnh tri l khi chng ta ngm nhn chng.
Khong 80% kim cng ln c nhn thy cc cuc u gi ca Christies v
Sothebys l c hnh th khc l, nh l dng ch nht ca Emerald v hnh bn bi-a
c. Trong s , tuy nhin c rt nhiu vin hnh tri l c cho bn vi kch thc
t 10 cara n 30 cara. Nhng cuc bn u gi nh th ny, c mt bn bo co phn
loi cho mi vin kim cng. Mc d cc bn bo co ch dng tham kho theo gi
c th trng, nhng cng c nhiu s khc nhau kh ln gia nhng vin cng
mu sc v cng trong sut.

Khi mua hng trong cuc bn u gi ny, iu quan trng l phi c s nh gi ca

cc nh chuyn mn v t mnh kim tra hng trc khi mua.
Cng nh nhng hnh dng khc ca kim cng, cht lng ca kim cng hnh tri
l nm trong trong sut cao, s hi ha gia sng v s khc x nh sng a
sc, cht lng ca v b ngoi v s lp lnh khi di chuyn. Trong thc t, ngi
bun bn kim cng s nhn nh v p ca vin kim cng bng cch so snh vi
mt bn k vit tay ca chnh h hoc l mt vin mu. T v b ngoi c th thay
i ty thuc vo nh sng, lun lun kim ra bng cch so snh nhng vin , l
bc then cht nhn nh v p ca chng. Cch c s la chn tt nht l
khng ch ti v ngoi ca n na m hy chn vin kim cng m bn ngh l thu
ht nht.

Tn khong vt : Diamond
cng Mohs :10
Chit sut :2.417
T trng :3.52
Kim cng gic ct ht thc Marquise

Vo nm 1745, Vua Louis 15 ca nc Php phong cho qu b Pompadour tc v

hu tc. Nhng vin kim cng hnh chic thuyn xut hin Paris hi by gi
c t tn Ht thc vi lng tn knh N b tc Pompadour.
Nhng ngi th ct kim cng mi da nhng vin kim cng theo hnh Ht thc,
hnh tri l hoc hnh ovan t nhng nguyn liu c hnh dng tng t nhau. Cch
lm ny nhm tit kim ti a nguyn liu, hoc cho php b i nhng phn tha
khng p ca vin th. Cch ct thay i ty theo kch c ca nguyn liu th. V
du, mt ngi th ct c th quyt nh ct ti 2/3 nguyn liu lm thnh mt vin
Ht thc nu nh trng lng sau cng ca n c cho rng s nh hn 0,25 cara,
cn nu trng lng sau cng ca n c cho rng s ln hn 0,3 cara, ch c mt
na c th tr thnh dng Ht thc. Nu trng lng c cho rng s ln hn 2

cara, th c rt t dng Ht thc c ct, v ngi ct s chn dng tri l thay

th. So snh vi hng ngc v ngc bch, thng li c rt nhiu dng hnh ovan, th
vi kim cng li c nhiu dng Ht thc, c l bi v cng mt kch thc th
dng Ht thc rc r hn dng hnh ovan.
Vin kim cng Ht thc trong bc nh minh ha trang sau l mt vin 1,31 cara,
vi hi ha tuyt p gia chiu di v chiu rng vi t l 1,8 v 1. Mt ni ca n
iu ct yu cho hnh dng cng c ch tc cng phu, khin n tr thnh mt
hnh mu tiu biu cho nhng vin qu Ht thc. Ht thc trng c v nh ln
hn nhng dng khc mc d cng trng lng, nhng nu mt vin qu sm mu
hoc qu nng, hoc nu mt sau ca n qu di, th s c mt vng mu sm ging
hnh n con bm xut hin chnh gia vin .

Tn khong vt : Diamond
cng Mohs :10
Chit sut :2.417
T trng :3.52
Kim cng gic ct Emerald

Cht lng nguyn liu th l c bit quan trng i vi mt vin kim cng dng
emerald p.
Cum t ct theo dng emerald ra i t thc t l nhng vin emerald t Colombia
c ct c trng theo dng ny. Nhng tinh th emerald Columbia th hnh tru, hnh
luc gic l ngun to ra hu ht cc vin quyn r v t b mt trng lng nht khi
c ct theo hnh dng ny. Ct theo dng emerald l tiu chun cho emerald
Colombia, khi m dng trn v dng ovan c coi l nhng dng c bit.
Tri ngc vi iu , li mt nhiu chi ph hn ct kim cng theo dng hnh

trn, theo nhu cu ca th trng v tnh t nhin ca nguyn liu kim cng th. V
vy dng chung ca hu ht kim cng l hnh trn, v tt c cc dng c a thch
khc l dng cnh. Kim cng th ct theo dng emerald c lm t t nhng
nguyn liu th c hnh dng khc bit c ct theo dng hnh trn, v n b gii hn
bi cht lng ca nguyn liu. Ct theo dng emerald tng cng t nht l 2% v
p so vi tt c nhng vin kim cng c mi.Vi bt k loi qu no th cng
c mt lng nguyn liu th nht nh thch hp to nn nhng hnh dng c bit
khc thng. Khi m nhu cu cho nhng hnh dng khc l ngy cng cao, th
nguyn liu ph hp hn cho nhng hnh dng khc cng c s dung, khin cho gi
c ca sn phm tng cao. Yu t chnh trong v p ca kim cng ct theo dng
emerald l trong sut ca n v ton b dng v b ngoi ca n v cht lng ca
tinh th th s nh hng trc tip ti trong sut.
Nhng ngi th ct kim cng ni rng bn khng th giu c nhng nhc im
ca nguyn liu th trong vin kim cng c ct theo dng emerald, nhn mnh
mt iu l ti sao nhng vin c ct theo dng emerald p li yu cu cht lng
nguyn liu cao. Tnh hung ny c th so snh c vi vic nu nng- khng quan
trng bn c chun b cng thc nu nng hay khng, bn khng th lm nn mt
mn n ngon lnh nu nguyn liu khng cht lng.
Bc nh trong trang tip theo l mt vin kim cng c ct theo dng emerald 2,02
cara vi trong sut cao v ta sng rc r. Phn cao nht (nh) ca vin c 3
nc, v mc d n khng th c nhn thy trong bc nh, v y (phn c bao)
c bn nc, tt c c t theo hnh mu thng thng. Khng ging nh hnh trn
v hnh bu duc c th th hin v rc r hn, dng ct theo dng emerald c c
trng l v ngai nh nhng v c gi tr.
Dng ct theo emerald kh c a chung ti th trng Nht Bn trong sut nhng
nm 1950. iu ny c th bi v v p kn o v su sc ca dng ct ny ph hp
vi trang phuc Kimono Nht Bn.

Tn khong vt : Diamond
cng Mohs :10
Chit sut :2.417
T trng :3.52
Kim cng vng

Ch c nhng vin kim cng vng vi mu sc m, rc r mi nhn c s tha

nhn c bit v tn gi mu vng khc thng.
Ngi ta ni rng, ch c hn 20 vin kim cng vng khc thng c ch tc c
c trng lng hn 100 carat. Hu ht n c khai thc ti Nam Phi. n v
Brazil l ngun ch yu ca kim cng trong nhiu nm trc khi ngi ta khm ph
ra kim cng Nam Phi nm 1866, nhng chng ch cho ra i mt lng nh kim
cng vng.
c rt nhiu kim cng vng trong s c khai thc ti a phn Cape Nam
Phi, v nhng ngi bun bn kim cng v th thng thch nhc n kim cng c
mu hi vng di ci tn Cape. Sn phm ca Nam Phi bao ph th trng vi kim
cng vng, khin gi h xung thp hn rt nhiu. Gia nhng vin kim cng ,
ch c nhng vin c mu sc su v rc r mi nhn c s tha nhn c bit v
tn gi mu vng khc thng.
Vin kim cng mu vng khc bit c ct theo hnh bu duc trong bc nh trang
tip sau y c mu vng chanh v v p dng nh trn ngp ra t vin .
y chnh l ci gi l kim cng mu vng khc thng ca chim hong yn. Tt
c s rc r v s hi ha ca cc ha tit trang tr xung quanh vin qu u c
bit, v n c ng nt hi ha hon ho khin cho ta n tng v s tinh t ca n.
So snh vi kim cng khng mu c kch c v hnh dng tng t, vin qu c
bit ny vt xa v v p. Mt vin kim cng vng khc thng p nh vin ny

thc s rt him gp.

Bi mi vin kim cng u c nht v nh,do vy rt quan trng so snh chng
vi tng vin khc v quyt nh xem ci no p hn. Cng ging vi bt k vin
mu no, v p c mu sc khc thng ca kim cng c xc nh ch yu
bi mu sc ca n, sau mi l s hi ha gia trong sut, s rc r, s lp lnh
v bao gm c hnh dng ca n na.
ng ch nht, kim cng c mu sc khc thng khng hay c ch tc di
dng ht nhiu mt hnh trn. Nhm tn dung c tt c cc u im ca ca
nguyn liu th v to ra mu sc m, tuyt p khi nhn t b mt trn, ngi ct s
cn nhc mi vin kim cng c mu khc thng mt cch cn thn v ch tc n
theo mt hnh dng ring bit.

Tn khong vt : Kim cng

cng Mohs :10
Chit sut : 2.417
T trng : 3.52
Thang im cht lng v thut ng mu sc khc thng ca GIA.

Cht lng ca kim cng mu sc khc thng c nh gi bi v p tng th

v sc mu , c thy khi nhn vin t trn xung.
S m t mu sc c thc hin bi Vin qu M (GIA) da trn h thng mu
ca Munsell. Theo h thng mu ca GIA, kim cng MU XANH KHC
THNG v HNG KHC THNG l nhng kim cng vi sc mu trn 2+
(khi so snh trc tip vi kim cng cp mu S n Z ). Tuy nhin, v kim cng
vng ph bin hn kim cng xanh v hng , nn kim cng vng cp 3+ c gi
n gin l VNG SNG v nhng vin vi sc mu sm hn cp 3 th
c gi tn l KHC THNG(FANCY). Kim cng m c mu sc thay i
mang tnh ngh thut th khng c coi l 1 cp mu sc.
Bng di y a ra kt qu n nh cp v mu sc khc thng ca GIA vi
Thang o cht lng.
KIM CNG XANH KHC THNG
Bng bn tay tri di y ch ra thang im cht lng cho kim cng xanh khc
thng, s dung nhng thut ng ca GIA. (Du hoa th [*] n nh cc cp mu
sc khc thng ca GIA dnh cho cc loi kim cng. Ni chung, cp v p S
ph hp vi mu XANH B n XANH GHI v D l MU GHI.

KIM CNG VNG KHC THNG

Bng bn phi di y ch ra thang o cht lng cho kim cng vng ,vi nhng
thut ng ca GIA. V 3 vin kim cng nh c dng trong mi khong, nn hy
ngh chng nh nhng phu trang thng thng. Ngay c khi 1 vin MU VNG
CHI LI KHC THNG, cp 3B, cng c th b gim v p nu chng
c trong sut thp, hoc nu n c mu hi nu nht nh trong khong 3-B hoc 3C. Cc cp mu sc khc thng ca GIA s dung nhng thut ng MU CHI
LI KHC THNG, MU KHC THNG MNH, MU SM KHC
THNG, MU TI KHC THNG, MU KHC THNG, MU NHT
KHC THNG, MU NHT, MU RT NHT.hoc M NHT da trn s kt
hp ca sc mu v s bo ha. Nhng thut ng trn khng cn thit phi lin
quan ti v p, bi v p cng cn b nh hng bi trong sut v sc mu.
Nh c th ni v tt c kim cng mu sc khc thng, kim cng mu vng khc
thng c a thch bi mu sc tng th m trong sut v nhng nt khm rc
r ca n to nn, cng nh l s lp lnh. Khng cn thit phi quan tm qu nhiu
ti nhng khim khuyt nu chng khng lm gim v p v bn hin ti. D
nhng vin nhn to hoc c x l mu c th s hu s kt hp ng m
c ca mu sc p v khng khim khuyt, cng nn cn trng khi cho rng nhng
iu kin nh vy him khi c kim cng mu sc khc thng c to ra bi t
nhin.
nh gi cht lng

Nh c th ni v tt c kim cng mu sc khc thng, kim cng mu vng khc

thng c a thch bi mu sc tng th m trong sut v nhng nt khm rc
r ca n to nn, cng nh l s lp lnh. Khng cn thit phi quan tm qu nhiu
ti nhng khim khuyt nu chng khng lm gim v p v bn hin ti. D
nhng vin nhn to hoc c x l mu c th s hu s kt hp ng m
c ca mu sc p v khng khim khuyt, cng nn cn trng khi cho rng nhng
iu kin nh vy him khi c kim cng mu sc khc thng c to ra bi t
nhin.
Cch chn kim cng vng.

Ngay c vi nhng vin kim cng sm mu, mu vng khc thng cng c m
mu hi nu sm , gim v p v lm chng khng ph hp vi trang sc. Nhng
vin mu vng sng p i khi c th c mc gi thp. im cn thit l mu
sc phi c trng khi vin c nhn t trn xung. 1 bn bo co v cp mu
sc khc thng nn c coi l bng chng ca t nhin, nhng iu quan trng l
khng nn phu thuc vo nhng thut ng mu sc : hy nhn vin bng chnh i
mt ca bn, v chn ly vin m bn va . Tr gi ca vin kim cng vng khc
thng kch c 1 carat , cht lng trang sc l xp x US $ 9,000 cho 1vin n.
Nh c th ni v tt c kim cng mu sc khc thng, kim cng mu vng khc
thng c a thch bi mu sc tng th m trong sut v nhng nt khm rc
r ca n to nn, cng nh l s lp lnh. Khng cn thit phi quan tm qu nhiu
ti nhng khim khuyt nu chng khng lm gim v p v bn hin ti. D
nhng vin nhn to hoc c x l mu c th s hu s kt hp ng m
c ca mu sc p v khng khim khuyt, cng nn cn trng khi cho rng nhng
iu kin nh vy him khi c kim cng mu sc khc thng c to ra bi t
nhin.
Kim cng hng

Mu sc mang tnh quyt nh trong kim cng c mu sc khc thng, v vy mang

li nhng mu sc m nht cn tim n l thc o k thut ca ngi ct n.
Mu hng ca kim cng hng khc thng thc s l mu nht. Nhng thc o
mc mu khc nhau ca mu hng c th cn nhc v nhng mu sc tng t
nhau bng cch thm nc dn dn vo mu sn . Khi mu nu hoc mu cam vt
qu thc o mu c, th mu tinh khit b mt i v v p ca mu s b
gim bt.
Cn nhc ct nht ct quyt nh cho nhiu vin mu v kim cng c mu sc
khc thng l phi quy vng mu sc trn nguyn liu th. Rt nhiu kim cng c
mu sc khc thng c ch tc theo cc hnh dng khc thng so vi kiu trn
thng thng, c gng sao cho b i lng nguyn liu th t nht, trong khi ng
thi lm cho cc mu sc xut hin cng m cng tt. K nng ct ca ngi ch tc
c o bng kh nng lm mu sc ca vin kim cng xut hin cng m v cng
p mc c th nu c quan st t pha trn. V s thiu hon ho khng nh
hng xu ti v p ca vin , khi to nn gi tr th mu sc c cho l quan
trng hn l s khng hon ho.
Vin kim cng mu hng khc thng m chng ta thy di y l t m Argyle
Australia. c pht hin nm 1979, Argyle bt u tr thnh khu thng mi kh
quan trng vo nm 1983. S pht trin quy m ln vn tip tuc din ra t , v
n gn nm 1995, theo tnh ton ln ti 40% tng sn lng kim cng trn ton
th gii.Lc ny, do hu ht nhng vin kim cng u c cht lng thp,vi rt
nhiu kim cng mu hi nu, ti khon ca Argyle ch cn l 5% tng sn lng th
gii quy ra tin mt. Trong nhng vin kim cng c khai thc Argyle, nhng
vin c mu hng rc r qu him l quan trng nht. Ch nhng vin nh c tm
thy , him khi vt qu 1,5 cara trc khi ct, nhng nhng vin ny c
mt nh hng khng th o lng c trong vic tng s lng ngi tiu dng
quan tm ti nhng vin kim cng c mu sc khc thng t nhng nm 1980.
Nguyn liu ti Argyle c mt mu hng ta tiu biu vi nh hi xanh mnh hn
bng nh gi mu.
Mc d vin kim cng mu hng khc thng c trng by trong bc nh trang
tip sau y c mu sc nh, n vn c mt v p nh mu anh o. S hi ha gia
mu hng v mu trng ca cc chi tit khm xung quanh trong bc nh l minh
chng cho v p ca kim cng hng khc thng. Ngun chnh xc ca vin kim
cng khng xc nh c, nhng n c th n t n , Brazil, Tanzania, Zaire,
Angola, Nga (m Arkhangelsk nm gn bin gii Phn Lan), hoc t mt m cao cp
ti Nam Phi.

Tn khong vt : Diamond
cng Mohs : 10
Chit sut : 2.417
T trng : 3.52
Kim cng x l mu.

Nhng vin kim cng mu nu nht, vng nht, hoc khng mu c th chuyn mu
sang mu xanh dng hoc xanh dng-xanh l khi c chiu x. Nu nguyn liu
mu xanh l cy sau khi c nhit luyn, c th chuyn sang mu nu, cam hoc
vng. 1 s vin kim cng chuyn mu vng vn c kh nng chuyn sang mu
hng. Gn y, Kim cng c chiu x cng c ch .Bc hnh di y
ch ra 1 vi c tnh mu sc ca kim cng qua x l mu. Trng thi mu ng
nht ca chng mang li cho chng 1 v p y tnh ngh thut, v ngi c kinh
nghim chuyn mn v qu c th ch ra chnh xc s khc bit gia kim cng t
nhin v kim cng c x l mu. Cng c th ch ng phn bit mu sc t
nhin v mu sc x l bng cch quan st s thu ht ca quang ph trn vin kim
cng.

Kim cng qua x l mu thng khng c s dung trong trang sc truyn

thng, nhng khi mua, khch hng phi c cung cp thng tin rng vin kim cng
y c x l vi s bc x. Kim cng x l mu c th dng nguyn liu
cht lng thp v thay i mu sc ca chng sang mu xanh dng hoc mu vng.
Nu gi ca 1 vin kim cng xanh dng t nhin 1 carat l $100,000, th 1 vin
xanh dng c chiu bc x ngay c khi t n s so snh v mu sc- cng c
gi tr hon ton khc, ch ng gi #$ 2.000 n $3,000.
Kim cng c che ph vt nt, v

Kim cng trong bc hnh di y c 1 vt nt v trn b mt m mt thng c th

nhn thy, lm gim v p ca n i rt nhiu.

Vt nt ny c che ph vi nguyn liu ch yu l thy tinh, v gn nh hon

ton c che giu i, bi th, n khng cn nh hng ti v p ca vin kim
cng na. Tuy nhin, ngay t u vin phi l 1 vin kim cng cht lng thp.
Theo quy c, nhng vin kim cng c che ph vt nt nh th khng c cng
nhn v sng trong ( 1 cp m phn nh s km hon thin c th nhn thy). 1
vin cha x l c sng trong 12 (bao gm nhng th vi c th d dng nhn

thy bi mt thng) c th c chuyn i c v ngoi vi nhng th vi kh c

th nhn thy bi mt thng. Tuy nhin, khi so vi nhng vin kim cng cht lng
cao, nhng vin x l ny u c s khc bit ng k v rc r. Khi phng
i ln 10 ln, c tnh FLASH hay mu ng sc c th nhn thy c nhng vt
nt ny. Nhng vin kim cng c che ph vt nt ny c a vo th trng
M , nhng nhng ngy thng sm hn c ghi li th trng Nht bn. Theo
logic, th nhng vin ny c th c bn khi c a ra 1 cch hp l., nhng
mi vin u phi c xc nhn khi ti gia nhp th trng. Cng v l do ny, ngnh
cng nghip ny phi tip tuc gi vng v th ca mnh, v khng bn nhng vin kim
cng c che ph vt nt.
nh gi cht lng v cch chn

a phn kim cng hng khc thng c ln c mu hng nht ca hoa CHARRY,
trong khi nhng vin c nh t m Argyle th thng c mu hng tm. Trong nhng
trng hp nh vy , ngun cung cp rt hn ch, v ta phi lun nh rng l
nhng vin kim cng cc k t gi. Hn na, bt k 1 vin ln sn c nh vy
thng c xu hng s ti gia nhp th trng.

Quan trng hn c sm ca mu hng chnh l vic l 1 vin mu hng tinh

khit m khng b ln sc t nu. Quyt nh trc kch thc hay hnh dng s ch
lm gim i c hi to thnh 1 vin p. Tm kim 1 vin k cng mu hng khc
thng i hi s kin nhn v linh hot trong vic bn c sn sng chp nhn, cng
nh bn c sn sng tr tin.
Nhng im km hon thin khng phi l vn chnh khi cn nhc khi chng
khng nh hng nhiu ti v p ca vin . Tiu ch cht lng quan trng nht
ca vin kim cng mu hng khc thng chnh l mu sc p.
Gi tr ca vin kim cng mu hng khc thng cht lng trang sc l xp x $
50,000 cho 1 vin n.(2001).
Kim cng xanh

Bi v s lng khai thc rt hn ch ca n, nhng vin kim cng loi ny hu nh

lu gi nh vt gia truyn v ch quay vng trong cc cuc bn u gi.
Mc d rt him, nhng c tn ti nhng loi kim cng mu hng, mu cam, mu
vng (mu hong yn), xanh l cy, xanh da tri v mu tm. Mi mu sc u c kt
cu b tc ng theo cch ring ca n, phn chia t ra thnh nhiu loi kim
cng c xp t khng mu cho ti mu vng nht, mu nu v xm. Nht l kim
cng xanh dng v hng, v cng t bi s qu him ca n. Khi mt mu sc
ca kim cng vt qu mc mu vn c, thut ng t gi s c dng, v kt
qu l to nn nhng ci tn nh xanh t. Vin kim cng hnh qu l trong bc
nh trang sau c sc thi mu hon ton tht, nhng n l mt mu xanh rc r
khc thng.
Trong vi th k, ngi n gn nh tm ti tt c cc m kim cng. Phn ln
kim cng c khai thc ti n c trong sut cao v khng mu, nhng trong
mt s trng hp him hoi, nhng vin kim cng mu xanh dng v mu hng
cc k him ny vn c tm thy. Vin kim cng mu xanh da tri mang tn Hy
vng hc vin Smithsonian, Washington, D.C c tin rng c ngun gc t n
. Vic ch tc kim cng bt u Braxin vo nm 1725; bn cnh kim cng
xanh da tri v kim cng hng, kim cng mu xanh l cy cng c khai thc
y.
Hin nay, kim cng xanh dng khc thng hnh nh nhng c khai thc vi s
lng hn ch t cc khu m hng nht Nam Phi.
Cha kho dn ti v p ca kim cng xanh khc thng l mu xanh ca n,

mu m d nh sng rt nh cng c th nhum mu cho n. Kim cng xanh dng

khc thng trn chic nhn m bn xem di y l mt vin him hoi th hin
c nhng mu rt nh. Trong mu xanh sm, trng thi mu cng tr nn mnh
hn, gy ra s bit mt ca nh sng rc r trong tia sng xanh, trng nh l nhng
hoa vn trm tr trn vin . Bi v vic sn xut n l cc k hu hn, tuy nhin,
tm c tng cho kim cng xanh khc thng li rt kh khn. y l mt v du
c in v vic him ca mt vin qu s quyt nh gi tr ca n. Nhng vin
kim cng c th c sn lung theo nhng ci gi ca nh su tp, cao hn l nhng
vin qu c dng trong ch tc kim hon. Hu ht tui ca chng l t vi thp
k n vi th k, c lu gi nh vt bu gia truyn v ch xut hin trong cc cuc
bn u gi.

Tn khong vt : Diamond
cng Mohs : 10
Chit sut : 2.417
T trng : 3.52

V p ca kim cng mu c nh gi khi nhn t trn xung. 1 mu xanh sm

hn chc chn s c hiu ng mu ghi nhiu hn.Tt nht l chn 1 vin m c t
mu sc hi ghi ,ngay c khi vic ng ngha vi vic chn 1 vin sng mu
hn 1 cht.

Kim cng khng mu cht lng thp c th phi c chiu bc x to thnh

mu xanh. Bi v c i khi c s dung trong trang sc, nn vic khng nhm ln
chng vi nhng vin mu t nhin rt quan trng.
Tr gi ca 1 vin kim cng mu xanh khc thng cht lng qu l xp x
$50,000 cho 1 vin n (2001).
Kim cng Melee

Trong s nhng vin kim cng ang ta sng rc r, melee c th ng vai tr h tr

cho nhng vin qu khc, hoc l mt s vin kim cng Melee c th c t
cnh nhau to nn trang sc tuyt p.
T Melee ni ti nhng vin kim cng vi trng lng nh hn 0.2 carat, v
chng c phn bit ring r khi nhng kim cng khc. Kim cng Melee c
dng trong trang sc m c thit k vi nhng kim cng c t cnh nhau, hoc
v pha nhng vin dng nhn mnh nhng loi mu khc. Trn thc t,
nhng vin kim cng melee c s dung trong hu ht cc trang sc xut hin
trong cun sch ny, bi vy nn rt quan trng khi chng khng b b st khi ang

ni v nhng loi qu.

Sau chin tranh th gii ln th hai, kim cng melee c ch tc Antwerp,
Belgium, cng nh l Idar Oberstein. Nhng do gi sn phm tng ln cng vi s
phuc hi ca nn kinh t sau chin tranh, Idar Oberstein t mt v th ca n
nh l mt trung tm ct kim cng. Vic cng ng ngha vi vic nhng sn
phm ch tc n tng ln nhanh chng trong sut nhng nm 1960. Qu trnh
ny c tip tuc theo nhng nhn t nh gi tr sn phm thp, s qun l, v kin
thc truyn thng v trang sc, v vi hn mt triu ngi tham gia lm vic trong
cng nghip ch tc trong thi im ti a ca chng. Ngay c n by gi , n
vn i din cho hn 90 phn trm sn lng kim cng melee ca th gii v cht
lng.
Vn d, nhng vin kim cng melee c cung cp ti n l bi nhng ngi De
Beer, nhng vin kim cng m ng gp vo ti khong 70 phn trm ca nguyn
liu kim cng th trn th gii, l nhng vin th cn thi gian ch tc do kch
c nh v hnh dng khc l ca chng. Nhng vin kim cng melee th vi v
ngoi p v kch thc ng b c gi ti nhng nh my ch tc Bangkok,
Thi lan. Hin nay c khong 5,000 th ct Bangkok, sn xut ra nhng vin kim
cng melee nh nhng vin trong trang k bn, loi c ct t nguyn liu th cht
lng cao. Sn lng ln nhng vin kim cng melee ct ton phn vi 58 mt
c dng trong trang sc cht lng cao, cng nh nhng vin kim cng melee ct
n c dng trong nhng chic ng h t tin, c ch tc Bangkok, minh
chng cho cht lng ct tt y.
Do ngun sn phm gi thnh thp n v Thailand, m by gi chng ta c th
tin hnh trao i nhng trang sc gn nhiu nhng vin kim cng melee cht lng
cao vi mc gi thp t $2,000 ti $3,000.
Trong nh di l 3417 vin kim cng melee

Tn khong vt : Kim cng

cng : 10
Chit sut : 2.417
T trng : 3.52
Kim cng trn rc r

Ngi ta ni rng khi trang im bn thn bng v rc r ni bt ca mn qu tng t

thin nhin ny s lm cho tri tim trong tro v thanh bnh hn.
T kim cng bt ngun t nhng ngi Hy lp c xa, mang ngha l khng th
b ch ng c l mt ci tn ph hp cho loi nguyn liu cng nht tng
xut hin trong thin nhin. Cho n khi kim cng c pht hin Brazil vo nm
1725, ngun cung cp duy nht ca n l t n , ni m kim cng sn c coi
trng v cho l ba h mnh trc nm 800 trc Cng nguyn. Ngi ta tin rng
nhng vin kim cng tm ng ti Chu u thng qua s xm chim ca ngi
Ba t. Trc th k 15, nhng ngi phu n thuc hong tc Chu u rt thch eo
kim cng.
n , vic ct kim cng lc u ch n thun bao gm vic loi b ch nhng
phn vt nt khi vin th, gi t l trng lng mt i gim xung ti thiu. Vic
s dung bt kim cng dn ti s pht trin ca nhng cng ngh ch tc mi v
tr thnh ngun gc ca cng ngh ch tc hin i ngy nay. Vo khong gia th k
17, da trn cch ct hoa hng v nhng s ci tin khc, cch ct Mazrin c
pht trin. chnh l tin thn ca cch ct rc r hin i. Mc d cch ct rc r
c th gy nn s mt 50 phn trm hoc hn trng lng nguyn liu th, nhng n
li rt cn thit trong vic mang li v rc r long lanh cho kim cng.
V p ca vin kim cng trong bc hnh bn l kt qu ca s cn bng tuyt i
ca s tn sc mu sc cu vng, s lp lnh, v v rc r mnh m. Di nh sng

mt tri hoc nh sng mnh, mt vin kim cng s pht ra qung tn sc mu vng ,
xanh l cy, v mu xanh da tri nh c th thy mt lng knh. Khi vin kim cng
c di chuyn, nhng nt khm to nn bi nhng ng ct s lp lnh vi s lp
lnh v cng hp dn. V nhng s lp lnh thay i mt cch tinh t ty thuc
vo nhng gc c ngi th ct chn la. Vic lm tng s tn sc lp lnh s
to nn s lp lnh v nu c th s lm c s tn sc v s lp lnh tr nn ti a.
vin kim cng trn, c to nn t bt kim cng thin nhin vi nhng c tnh
ring ca n, s c to nn nhng mt ring bit bng cng ngh tin tin ca con
ngi.

Tn khong vt : Kim cng

cng Mohs: 10
Ch s khc x : 2.417
T trng: 3.52