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Cat 47 ArkLife A
Cat 47 ArkLife A
ON
CUE
WHAT IS ARKANSAS BARBECUE? ITS NOT TEXAS BRISKET, AFTER ALL. AND ITS NOT MEMPHIS DRYRUBBED RIBS. ITS NOT KC BURNT ENDS OR SOUTH CAROLINA WHOLE HOG. ITS SIMPLE. UNASSUMING,
EVEN, WITH A LITTLE BIT OF THIS AND A LITTLE BIT OF THAT. AND ITS UNABASHEDLY DELICIOUS. WHICH
IS WHY WE OFFER THIS CELEBRATION OF TRIED-AND-TRUE ARKANSAS BARBECUEFROM THE FIRST
MORSEL OF HICKORY-SMOKED PORK TO THE LAST CRUMBS OF THAT FRIED ELBERTA-PEACH PIE
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LEGEND
HAS IT
WHATS IN A NAME?
A LOT, ACTUALLY. IN THE
CASE OF THESE FIVE LOCAL
INSTITUTIONS, A NAME
MCCLARDS, SIMS, WHAT
HAVE YOUMEANS
GENERATIONS OF FINE
BARBECUE FINESSE
The key to
McClards
decades-long
success, Scott
stresses, is
consistency. The
menu, for example,
has remained the
same (save for
the sausage added
last year).
IT
M cCLARDS
HOT SPRINGS
50 ARKANSAS LIFE
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SIMS
BARB-QUE
LITTLE ROCK
Although many
hands come
together in
making Sims what
it is, cook Leroy
Williams (shown
here), whos been
with the restaurant
since 1984, kicks
off the process
each morning
at 7 a.m.
52 ARKANSAS LIFE
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Being featured
on the Travel
Channels BBQ
Crawl has brought
even more
customers to the
joint, Chris says.
To this day people
say, Hey! We
saw you on TV
and came!
LEGENDS
STUBBYS
BAR-B-QUE
HOT SPRINGS
54 ARKANSAS LIFE
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RIGHT: Though
Buddy Halsell
can still be found
at the restaurant
daily, his son,
Bob, now runs the
show, opening
and closing
the restaurant
each day.
DIXIE
PIG
BLYTHEVILLE
WELL,
YEAR FOUNDED: 1923
FOUNDER: ERNEST HALSELL
CURRENT OWNER: BUDDY HALSELL
GENERATIONS: 3
56 ARKANSAS LIFE
of course,
my dad started all of this back
in 1923. It was a log cabin with a
sawdust floor in it. Hed moved up
here from Mississippi about that
same year. People were moving
into this part of the country for
the new farm land. He just knew
how to work. You can know a lot
of things, but if you dont know
how to work, you cant do nothing.
He built this place in 1950, and
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when I got out of the service four years later, I started working for him.
We had car hops out there, and we used to stay open till 11, 12 and 1
oclock at night. We close about 8:30 p.m. now.
We cook our meat with hot fire. Personally, I dont like the smoked
taste. Youll belch it for three days! People always say, How do you make
that hot sauce? And I say, Well, Ill tell you how I make it. I make it by the
gallon. Dad developed it. The only thing its not good on is ice cream.
We send it all over the country.
Im 86, and all I do around here now is try and keep out of everybodys
way. I might clean off a few tables and greet people when they come in
the door. But I am out here every day, and I am just happy I have a place
to go. Buddy Halsell, as told to Nicholas Hunt
ABOVE: Bob
Halsell puts a
days worth of
Boston butt in the
pit each morning
at 8:30 a.m. Itll
only be turned
once during its
8-hour cook.
JULY 2016 ARKANSAS LIFE 57
ODE PIG
TO THE
IVE ALWAYS
signature sauce is a thin, sharp mix of pepper and vinegar. It runs like
water. Sampled straight, the taste is a curious explosion: equal parts
spicy, sour and savory. But combined with slow-cooked pork, the two
are greater than the sum of their parts. If this werent an ode, Id say
the fat cuts the spice and tartness while the vinegar in turn opens up
the pork. But because it is, Ill simply say this: Tasting this culinary
alchemy was akin to a first kiss. For me, in the kitchen at Dixie Pig,
it was love at first bite.
Its a beautiful chemistry not lost on Jeff Wallace, owner of Kream
Kastle and son-in-law of its founder, Steven Johns. After leaving Buddy
behind, Id walked into the tiny office-slash-kitchen at Jeff s drive-in
unannounced, and he was kind enough to chat barbecue with me over
the constant buzz of orders coming in through the ancient intercom.
We talked of his 31 years in the business and how even though hes
added plenty of things to the menu, the Pig Sandwich is still the best
seller. Its not even close.
[Blythevilles] got the best barbecue, he told me without a hint of
jest. You will hear people tell you that in Kansas City.
Not ready to make the three-hour trip back to Little Rock, every
mile taking me farther and farther from my now beloved Pig Sandwich, I made one more stop a little ways down the
road at Penns Barbecue, planning to take home its
version for dinner. I ate it in the parking lot with
the passion of a convert.
BY NICHOLAS HUNT
58 ARKANSAS LIFE
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DIXIE PIG
KREAM KASTLE
PENNS BARBECUE
AWESOME SAUCE
UNRAVELING THE HISTORY OF ARKANSAS MOST BELOVED BARBECUE CONDIMENT
1934:
1.
1967:
The Shack is
bought out by
investors.
JOE FINCH
BUYS
BRAND.
2.
TALK OF
barbecue
in central Arkansas, and sooner
rather than later, someone will
bring up that most legendary of
Little Rock pig joints: The Shack.
And legendary is the key word
here. Founded in 1934 by Kessler
Casey Slaughter and his wife,
Iris, the original Shack closed its
doors 54 years later. And though
its been gone almost three decades,
if even half the stories told about it
are true, the world is worse for its
absence.
But the thing is, The Shack didnt
die. Not quite.
What people remember most
when they think of The Shack is
that vinegary, black-pepper-infused
sauce. And that very sauce, as luck
would have it, lives on. There are at
least four central-Arkansas barbecue joints that name-drop the condiment on their menus. And with
Tim Chappell, owner of Gusanos
Chicago-style Pizzeria, recently
launching a commercial version
from a recipe he received from Joe
Finch, an Arkansas barbecue legend in his own right, we thought it
was about time we did a little culinary archaeology.
So, after delving into news
clippings, filling a white board with
diagrams and devouring our fair
share of chopped pork, were finally
ready to present the definitive*
history of The Shack Sauce. nh
*Editors note: Definitely not
definitive. In fact, email
nicholas@arkansaslife.com to
report any tips or leads.
60 ARKANSAS LIFE
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SHACK SAUCE
1984:
RECIPE
RECON
1.
FINCH SELLS
to Don
and Cletus Smith,
who rename the restaurant Smittys.
FINCH OPENS
THE SHACK
in Maumelle.
FINCH SELLS
the recipe to
TIM CHAPPELL.
3.
Smittys
to Darrell W iley, who keeps
a version of The Shacks
sauce on the menu.
4.
THE TAYLORS
TAKE OWNERSHIP
in 2015.
3.
The North Little
Rock Whole Hog
compared a customers hand-written
Shack sauce recipe
against one published
in the Arkansas
Democrat. They now
make a batch three
times a week.
4.
WHOLE HOG
CAFE NORTH
LITTLE ROCK
SMITTYS
BAR-B-QUE
SMOKEHOUSE
BAR-B-QUE
SMOKE SHACK
BAR-B-Q
SHACK
SAUCE
(theshackisback.com)
In a 2010 Sync
Weekly article, David
Thompson claimed
his Shack sauce
recipe comes from
a little old lady he
worked with at Blue
Cross who claimed
to be involved in the
original Shack since
its founding.
JULY 2016 ARKANSAS LIFE 61
SIDE
WAYS
SIDE DISHES
P HOTO G R A PH Y B Y A RS H I A K H A N
AT AN ARKANSAS BARBECUE
JOINT, ITS NOT ALL ABOUT
THE MEAT. HERE ARE 25
DISHES WORTH SIDESTEPPING THE MAIN COURSE
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
1. GREEN BEANS, SIMS BAR-B-QUE IN LITTLE ROCK; 2. BLACK-EYED PEAS, LINDSEYS HOSPITALITY HOUSE IN NORTH LITTLE ROCK; 3. SWEET POTATOES, C APITOL SMOKEHOUSE
& GRILL IN LITTLE ROCK; 4. FRIES, SMOKE SHACK BAR-B-Q IN MAUMELLE; 5. C ANDIED YAMS, LINDSEYS HOSPITALITY HOUSE IN NORTH LITTLE ROCK; 6. COLESLAW, C APITOL
SMOKEHOUSE & GRILL IN LITTLE ROCK; 7. TAMALE SPREAD, M c CLARDS IN HOT SPRINGS; 8. COLESLAW, JO-JOS BBQ IN SHERWOOD; 9. TAMALES, SMITTYS BAR-B-QUE IN
CONWAY; 10. TOMATO RELISH, SMOKE SHACK BAR-B-Q IN MAUMELLE; 11. BAKED BEANS, MICKEYS CMB BBQ IN HOT SPRINGS; 12. FRIED OKRA, JO-JOS BBQ IN SHERWOOD;
62 ARKANSAS LIFE
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13. FRIED GREEN TOMATOES, SMITTYS BAR-B-QUE IN CONWAY; 14. ZESTY ITALIAN SALAD, MICKEYS CMB BBQ IN HOT SPRINGS; 15. ONION RINGS, SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-QUE
IN CONWAY; 16. CORNBREAD, SIMS BAR-B-QUE IN LITTLE ROCK; 17. GREENS, SIMS BAR-B-QUE IN LITTLE ROCK; 18. POTATO SALAD, C APITOL SMOKEHOUSE & GRILL IN LITTLE
ROCK; 19. DEVILISH EGGS, MICKEYS CMB BBQ IN HOT SPRINGS; 20. STEAMED C ABBAGE, LINDSEYS HOSPITALITY HOUSE IN NORTH LITTLE ROCK; 21. BARBECUE NACHOS, JOJOS BBQ IN SHERWOOD; 22. POTATO SALAD, HBS BAR-B-Q IN LITTLE ROCK; 23. SQUASH C ASSEROLE, C APITOL SMOKEHOUSE & GRILL IN LITTLE ROCK;
24. BAKED BEANS, HBS BAR-B-Q IN LITTLE ROCK; 25. SWEET POTATO FRIES, JO-JOS BBQ IN SHERWOOD
HUMBLE
PIE
YOU CAN KEEP YOUR TRENDIFIED KOLACHES. HERE AT HOME, WE PREFER OUR SWEETS ON THE SIMPLE SIDE
WASHINGTON, D.C.,
attempted. You can find shrimp and grits, but boiled peanuts are
scarce. Savory cornbread and Delta-style tamales arent exactly
fixtures in the area. And then theres dessert.
In a city of steakhouses, its no surprise that cheesecake abounds.
So do thick slices of fudge-frosted chocolate cake. And yet, for all
that sugar and decadence, I find myself searching for fried pie.
When I lived in Arkansas, I never really cared for the stuff, not
enough to seek it out specifically, anyway. But if I needed something
sweet after a lunch of barbecue or catfish, fried pie would often
satisfy me.
I can remember my first fried-pie encounter, at a gas station
somewhere in Missouri, my dad opening the wax-paper wrapper
and pulling out a palm-sized turnover shellacked with glaze. Im
sure it was one of the Hostess-branded fruit pies, with sticky-sweet
filling and crust stiffened with time and shelf-stable ingredients.
Was it a true fried pie? Not really. But it was unfussy. And thats
essential.
Fried pie, if anything, is a humble dessert. It should follow a
casual supper and be served with paper napkins. It should be
available by a cash register, with dark-brown crust and an uneven
shape. Maybe a little filling spilling out.
Southern food is at its best when its casual and delicious. When
it tastes better than it looks and you didnt need a reservation or
special occasion to get your hands on it. Goat-cheese-topped friedgreen tomatoes and pork-belly-studded grits are fine, I guess. But
given the choice, Ill take my tea in a plastic cup
to go, my pimento cheese spread thick on white
bread and my fried pie in a wax-paper wrapper.
With a little filling spilling out.
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