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On Heritage

The Story of Two Horologists

A heritage in watchmaking is the most vital attribute of
these two watch majors. We visit one manufacture,
Jaeger-LeCoultre and speak to the leader of another,
A.Lange & Shne to understand what will keep these two
watch manufacturers ticking in 2016 and beyond.
BY SINDHU NAIR

L
UXURY COMMODITIES, even in the height of recession, have historically held
strong, prompting consumers to indulge in the finer things in life, reminding
them of the values of heritage and handcrafting. Not any longer. Watchmaking is
on the threshold of uncertainty. According to Deloittes Swiss Watch Industry
forecast, watchmakers are increasingly worried about the continued strength of
the Swiss franc, the weakening demand from countries such as China, and the
growing competitive threat posed by smartwatches.
In the face of such dire competition, most luxury watchmakers have adopted a business
strategy of creating new products and celebrating technology, while keeping the bond with
their history secure.

JAEGER-LECOULTRE

What does one expect when visiting an age-old manufacture of one of the most expensive
watchmakers in the world? We were alerted to the DNA of the employees working in the
building: sporting a smile and a greeting for any guest who happens to pass by. But
nothing prepares one for the sheer detailing that goes on in the premises or the natural
beauty of the Valle De Joux that the manufactures old and new premises overlook. While
the design of the new complex of Jaeger-LeCoultre, which was opened in 2009, is
understated, keeping the surroundings as its main feature and bordered by the 1932 and
1982-built structures of the manufacture, but once inside, one is ushered into a world of
precision and minimalist design that permeates through the lounge and infiltrates the
studios of the watchmakers. The new 9,000 square-meter building was added to the
existing 16,000 square-meter premises so as to meet the growing demands of the brand. In
order to preserve the exceptional natural setting in which it has been established for over
175 years, the watchmaker decided to show its concrete commitment by earning labels
testifying the ecological quality of the new architectural creation. The building is an
extremely airtight and protective shell designed to prevent cold air from seeping in
insulated to avoid heat loss in winter and to keep out excessive heat in summer with a
controlled ventilation system, optimized natural lighting and noise reduction all this
through the use of recyclable and biodegradable construction materials.
After a long day of weaving our way through the premises, trying to make sense of the

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complicated world of watchmaking and the many
ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF JAEGER-LECOULTRE
minute details that go into making the exquisitely
crafted watches, from the caliber maker to the
blanking process where very high precision
swages are cut out, drilled, rectified and deburred,
to the making of the most complicated clock in the
history of timekeeping: the Atmos Clock, one truly
understands the value of precision in this vocation.
Invented in 1928 by the Swiss engineer Jean-Lon
Reutter, the Atmos clock counts the hours, day
after day, year after year, requiring neither
winding nor electric energy. Its secret lies in the
capsule placed within its mechanism that is
capable of transforming ambient temperature
variations into mechanical energy. A gas blend
placed in this capsule dilates when the
temperature increases and contracts when it is
lowered. Like a mechanical lung, these breaths
wind the barrel of the mechanism, thus providing
it with the energy necessary to work continuously.
A variation of just one degree Celsius guarantees a
48-hour power reserve. Its economical ring-shaped
balance consumes 250 times less energy than that
of a classic wrist watch. And it would take 60
million Atmos clocks to consume the same amount
of energy as a 15-watt bulb!
Daniel Riedo, the chief executive officer of
Jaeger-LeCoultre, explains what the brand has in
store for 2016.
Jaeger-LeCoultre has, in fact, taken a most
provocative step in strategizing; by coming up
with a complete new take on one of its most
successful lines. To mark its 85th anniversary, the
brand has revealed a new version of the Reverso,
so that each individual can immediately
recognize the collection that matches their own
character and the model destined to become
theirs, says Riedo. Watches for women have
always been scaled-down versions of mens
watches, says Riedo, and this is the trend that
Jaeger-LeCoultre wants to buck by creating an
entirely new line for women. These timepieces will
be released in phases during 2016. It was an
invention that led to the first Jaeger-LeCoultre
THE FINE ART
Clockwise from top left:
The manufacture as it is
now, the old and the new
buildings overlooking
Valle De Joux; the many
facets of watchmaking
that involve extreme care
and expertise, grand
complications being set
and assembled; Jaeger
Lecoultre's Rendez-vous
Ivy Tourbillon; the factory
in 1883; and the art of
enameling; .
workshop. Since 1833, the manufacture has not
only fostered this heritage of invention, creativity,
and technical skill, but has also constantly set out
in search of innovation. Ancient decorative arts,
such as enameling, engraving and gem-setting,
are among its most precious crafts. All these are
counted as part of its legacy as well as its
technological mastery.
Concern for detail has been a driving force
behind the manufacture with 180 skills under its
roof, including a dedicated art studio housing a
small team of enamelers deftly applying their
artistic bent to mechanical timepieces.
According to the brand director, Marc de
Panafieu, Middle Eastern customers, particularly
Dubai aficionados, have proven their interest in this
brand and the success of each new collection can be
seen in how rapidly they are sold out. Our brand is
not as popular in Qatar as it is in Dubai. We are in
the process of educating our customers here. Qatar
has many watch-lovers but they love to solicit
brands they are aware of. Thats why it is important
they understand where we come from and the
value of the tradition that we are soaked in.
Falling on its creative skills and reflecting on
old success stories is not the end of Jaeger-
LeCoultres 2016 strategy. It will work with
collaborators and designers to celebrate the spirit
of the brand. And that is how Christian Louboutin
worked with the brand to stun the watch industry
and we can now see how the brands intrusion into
the world of fashion entices a new breed of
horology enthusiasts.
January-February 2016 51
Arena Qatar On Heritage

A.LANGE & SHNE

WHEREAS ONE BRAND is based in Geneva, the other, with equally strong
historical roots, is based in Germany and is celebrating its 200th year of
watchmaking. We speak to Walter Lange, the founder of Lange Uhren GmbH,
to understand what the brand is doing differently.
We are celebrating the 200th birthday of my great-grandfather, Ferdinand
Adolph Lange, who brought the art of fine watchmaking to Glashtte. He has
shaped the profile of a brand that has always followed its own path and
constantly strives to outperform its own achievements, Lange says.
Brand name, heritage, technology, watchmaking techniques, or material
which of these takes priority for the watchmaker? Without any uncertainty,
Lange responds. It all comes down to the right mixture. A true connoisseur
or collector will look for a perfect synthesis of these aspects, he says.
The brand has witnessed many pioneering technical solutions. Like
constant-force mechanisms, the stop-seconds tourbillon or most recently
the first wristwatch that combines a mechanical jumping numerals display
with a decimal minute repeater. Beyond the technical aspects, our timepieces
offer something that a winemaker would call terroir a set of unmistakable
stylistic characteristics shaped by the Saxon history and culture, he says.
While Jaeger-LeCoultre looks down onto the Valle de Joux for inspiration,
A. Lange & Shne looks back at an eventful history that started in 1845 in the
Ore Mountains, far away from the traditional centers of fine watchmaking.
With the establishment of his manufactory, my great-grandfather laid the
foundation for Saxonys precision watchmaking industry. The most
important distinguishing elements of the Saxon style of watchmaking that
have been defined more than 150 years ago, can still be found in our modern
timepieces. Among some time-standing features are the three-quarter plate
of untreated German silver, the hand-engraved balance cock with its
whiplash precision index adjuster, and the endstones rimmed in screwed gold
chatons, Lange says. A NEW SETTING
Clockwise from far left: Walter Lange with the sculpture of his great
What placed Lange on the radar in recent times is their new grandfather whose 200th birthday is being celebrated; the new
manufactory, a carbon-neutral building, that was laid open last year by manufacture being launched by Angela Merkel; visiting the various
watchmaking facilities in the premises with Merkel and the other
Angela Merkel herself. directors of the brand; a pictoral sketch of the village in 1845; the
The new building, opened in August 2015, is equipped with a geothermal journey of the complications in Adolf Lange's journal.

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THE STORY OF
TIMEKEEPING
Clockwise from top left:
The new manufacture;
Walter Lange with his
favourite watch (the first
ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF LANGE
watch from the right); Being
a watchmaker, I have a
weakness for technical
complications. That is why I
like to wear the Tourbillon
Pour le Mrite from the first
collection"; one of the
historic watches of Lange;
Merkel with other Lange
employees; five minute
watch Semper Opera.
heating and cooling system, in the
most environmental-friendly
technology. For the construction, a
total of 55 geothermal holes were
drilled up to 125 meters deep. By using
geothermal heating and ecologically-
produced electricity to drive the heat
pumps, we were able to energize the
building in a carbon-neutral way. This enables
us to make an important contribution to
climate protection, Lange explains.
The older Lange, who is no longer involved
in the day-to-day running of the business,
follows the development of markets very closely.
The demand for our timepieces is unbroken in
Asia. With their sophisticated watch culture, Middle
East markets continue to play an important role for A.
Lange & Shne, he says.
The relationship between A. Lange & Shne and
society has many facets. Taking their role as the leading
watchmakers in the region, Lange has taken upon
himself the responsibility of reaching out to the
community and training a new generation of
watchmakers.
Lange says, One of my reasons for founding the
company in 1990 was to give a perspective to the people
in a structurally weak region. Today Lange is the largest
employer with a workforce of more than 750. Then we
take responsibility for the next generation and the future
of fine watchmaking by investing in education. At the
moment, almost 60 apprentices receive vocational
training at the Lange Watchmaking School, more than
ever before in the history of A. Lange & Shne.
When there are years of expertise to fall back on what
is it that stays in Langes memory about days gone by?
The successful press conference on 24 October 1994,
when we presented our first collection of the new era,
was a truly unforgettable Lange moment. It was then
that I knew we were doing everything right. I felt proud
of the tradition, the company and its staff, says Lange.
January-February 2016 53