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"1"
 TURKEY
AND IZACK TO

ENGL'AND'
By the la'te Reverend and Learned

EDMUN D CHISHULL, B. D'._j.

_ Chaplain to the FAcToRY of the
Worhipful TURKEY COMPANY' at SMTR NA.

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vllli O N D O N,

Printed by W. Bawycr in the Year MDccxLvn.

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_ _*
 THE

PREFACE.
NO hoohs are generally more entertaining and inruflive, than
the accounts of travels into oreign countries; and epecially
thoe, which are written in the way of Journals. For he,
who reads ich narratives, is almo apt to fancy himelf in company
with the traveler, and to take part with him in all his adventures ;
which at the ame time that they hew the peculiar temper, cuoms,
and manners of dierent nations, excite alo a variety of paons,
which hy their ucce'on pleae the mind, and make the chief delight
even in theatrical performances.

UPON this account it is, that the Letters of Buhequius, during

his emhay in Turkey; and the Journies of our ingenious and
learned countryman M'. Maundrell, thro everal parts of the
ame va empire, which he has o accurately decrihed; are re
peatedly read, and always with new pleaure.

THEREFORE. when Mr. Edmund Chihull, only Son o the late

Reverend zVlr. Chihull, who was for ome years chaplain to the Fa
ctory of our Worhipul Turkey Company at Smyrna, hrought to
me not many month: ince the preent Journal of his Father's
Travels, deiring me to perue it, and give him my opinion, whether
it was a worlc worthy to he puhlyhedz I could not refue his regue,
hut applied myelf with due care to read and examine it. And I was
the more readily induced to this, as I had thro a coure of many
years the happines of a perfect acquaintance with his father, even
from his return home to his death ; and hnew him, as well from his
convera'tion, as his writings (particularly that july celehrated hook
 iv PRE'FACE;
of his Antiquitates Aiaticae) to he not only a man of uncommon
learning, hut likewie ofgreat agacity, and indeatigahle diligence. '

AND indeed my pains in the perual of thee papers were very

well rewarded. For heides an agreahle amuement common to
other writings of this nature,- they gave me very ueul inruction
as to everal paages in antient hiorians, and other clac authors ;
and at the ame time illurated many old incriptions, everal of
which are now puhlihed, and others taken with gr'edter ex
aflnes, than had heen done formerly.

' HENCE I could not hut per uade the young Gentleman to ohlige
the world with this work, and to have it printed in ich a manner,
as his freinds hould advie him. Tho I eaily foreizw, that the' do
ing of this would necearily he attended with ome diculties; as
Mr. Chihull had put into writing thoe occurrences, which he thought
worthy o his notice, at uch leiure minutes, as he could natch from
the conant atigues of his journey; and hy that means had ome
times not only thrown many things together without exact order, hut
often left the places citedfrom antient writers to he upplied out of their
own works. Andheides, his hand heing hoth mall andhay, wasfre
quently not very eay to he read; o that many of the words, as to
the manner ofpelling, appeared douhtful and uncertain. This made
it needful to have the whole fairly trancrihed, and then to ll
up the quotations. The former tak therefore I committed to a pro
ed penman, and the latter I undertook myelf. In the doing of
which I not only carefully compared the trancriher's copy with the
original; hut had recoure to the authors themelves, and took out
of them the everal paages, to which the references were made.

WHEN Mr. Chihull left England, he was ellow of Corpus

Chrii college in Oxford, and had a grant of the traveler's place
from the prcdent and ociety. He et ailfrom the Downs Septem
her the 1 2, I698, in the Neptune frigate, Capt. Thomas comman
der, and arrived at Smyrna Novemher the 19 following. During
the voyage, agreahly to his uual diligence, he conantly kept a jour
nal of what then oered. But as nothing very remarkahle occurred
at ea; for that reaon the account of his Travels, which is here pu
hlihed, hegins with a journey undertaken hy him ome months after
3 his
 i'PREFACE. V

his ettlement at Smyrna. However as in his paiage he went on

jhoar ir at Cadiz, then at Mena, and ajter that in the iland
of Milo; in each of which places he made hveral ohhrvations,
which he afterwards ent in a Letter from Smyrna to Dr. Thomas
Turner, pre/ident of his college: that Letter is likewie now pahli/hed
at the end of this hook. '

B UT as he has generally remarked the ituation, government, and

other carioities, ofthe mo/l coniderahle cities, thro which he paed,
it may eem range, that no accoant is here given o/ Smyrna, the
place of his redence, and where, as he himelf tells as, he continu
ed from Novemher 19, 1698, to Fehrnary IO, 170 1-2. This hows
ever was occaioned hy his deign of treating apon that place in
a more diinct and particular manner; for which purpoe there is
a large namher of minates, or heads, detached in a eparate part
of the hook, relating hoth to the antient and preent ate of the city;
which were afterwards to have heen illed up, and inlarged. Tho
as they are now left, nothing more appears, that can he of any er
vice to the pahlic, than what here follows.

THE antiquities now extant in this place are thee. The cale,
which was Roman, and where Dolahella beheaded Trehonias. The
large head of Smyrna the Amazon over the gate of the ame. The
incription relating to Joannes Dacas over another 'gate of the
ame, with the modern Oriental eagle on both ides. The mall
remains of the theatre, in which S. Polycarp was burnt, lately taken
to pieces to build the Vizir hane of the place, and hezelen, or
market. The reliques of St. John's church. The pace and walls
of an antient cirgae. All which are on the aid cale hill,which
immediately overlooks the city. The ruins of the temple ofApollo
at the foot o mount Corycas, in an olive grove, and over the '
\
&egg-Lot (idea-rot. The ruins of the temple of flecalapias, or Nep
tane, in the way to Ehehleer; where was lately ound the head of
J'amu, and another of M Modias. A rich and delicate pave
ment of moaic work by the ea ide, towards the north, at a place
i where the outer wall terminates in the hore; which poibly is
the remains of the gymnaiam, or ome heathen temple. The e
veral inbriptions there lately found, reported in Prideaax, or at
the end of this book. The large ones of a yard and half quare
in a great and may wall, now part o a hane in the Armenian
reet, on all of which is marked the letter V, as large as the breadth
of
vi PREFACE.
of theone would permit. The remains of an old Roman way,
paved with broad and may ones, but mooth, in the road over
the cale hill toward Epheus. The remains of the antient wall
encompang the pomoe'rium, or a large pace of ground about
two thouand paces diant all round from the cale, or the city.
The carcity of antiquities now to be ound in LS'myrna aries from
hence, that it furnihed the greate part of the Marmora drun
deliana.
THE incriptions here iaid to he reported in Prideaux, are to
he found in the Doctor's edition of the Marmora Arundeliana. And
as to thoe referred to at the end o our author's book, uch of them
willaheecond
or hereuhjoined,
part o/ hisasAntiquitates
are not in theAiaticae
large collection deigned
; ofwhich hy him
a fewheets
only, containing thoe which relate to Epheus, were printed hy him
a little hejore his death, and the re are now in my pon.
IN a very pleaant valley near the bank of the river Meles, carce
thirty paces without the city.
. . ;. MENOZ '.
IEPON
A<P0AITH2
ETPATONIKIAOZ =
OT HAE K[TK
r Am] TO IIAPAHAN 3
4 ... KEIMJENON Ano ToN
.. H]AEP.().N KATA
TAzzETAI EIZ
TAz IEPAZMH
TRoz oAoTz 4
ON arhill near the cale.

T. <A- ETEIAHZ AIAAEE'AMENOZ THN

MHTEPA <I>A. A<I>POAEIZIAN EQNHZAMENHN
TO MNHMEION I'IPOZKATEZKETAZEN EAT
TO. KAI <I>A. TTXH TH FTNAIKI KAI CA. I'IEP
ZEI TO. TIO. - KAI TOIZ KATOIXO
MENOIZ v

1 TEMENOE. I Dee oran AHION.

* De Venere Stratom'cide vid. Taci't. Armal. .4 Vidisgg? my, apud Harpocrat.
Lx'h. iii. cap. 63.
4. . ON
 PREFACE. 'vii
ON a quare one in the houe of the Englih conul, being
of a later age.
BEBIA AH<EINTO (DQPAKEION KAI TA ENCOPIA
KAI THN COPON THN EI'II TO (DQPAKEIQ
KAI TA OIKHMATA HPOCKEIMENA' OIKOC KAEIMAS' 1 KOITQN
MEAEIANON TPIKAEINON OCTOOHKAI. (a B. C.
EKEATCIC EATTH KAI CTNTPO<Q TO, ANAPI
KAI TOIC TEKNOIC ATTHC KAI TOIC EKFONOlC
ATTQN. XAIPE QS) KAI CT.

i follows.
WHAT he has aid in relation to the preent Smyrna, is as

SMYRNA is ituated in thelatitude of 38gr.' 4om. in adeep bay,

that enters within the continent about ten leagues; and is o well
defended by the Erythraean promontory, now Cape Kara Bornu, and
and mount Corycus, with the hills commonly called Cordilieu, and
its own windings, that it is every where a port, aording good
depths and ecure anchorage. Immediately within the bay are
even ilands, lying in length towards the port of Four/ii, antiently
Clazomenae, which of old were called the Perierides; and the
bigge of them, Megale, is now by the Englih named Long Iland,
over again Pochia Vecchia, or Phocaea. Cape Kara Bornu, or
Black Noe (antiently the (Ingot us'mwu) aorded, as-Straho ays, ex
cellent mill ones 3 which is not unknown to the preent inhabi
tants, and therefore we there ee everal mills now employed. With
in two leagues and a half of the city the Hermus enters the bay, and
there forms a bed of and; which being met by a point of land
from the oppoite hore ops up the haven by a very narrow
Chanel, thus rendring it made, as Straho then expreed it. On
the aid point ands a new and rong ort, called Sangiac Cale;
becaue the Grand Signior's colours are there expoed, on occa
ons that require it. From hence we ail towards Smyrna, in a air
n'wx-v-v-v
<.-a_-
and long arm of the ea, which imitates the Pleaures of a canal;
whil the woody mountains on each de, with the city at one
end, and the cale at the other, conpire to give a mutual beauty
to one another.
.' KAEIMAE, calare, de quo vide Reinel Incrz'pt. antiq. Cla ept. num. xvi.

'Frac
_- HAD
viii. P R E F'A c E.
HAD our author lived to his elahorate account of Smyrna,
from the large materials he had collected for that deign, it would
douht/es have heen a very ueul worh, and thrown much light upon
many paages in antient writers. And indeed every part of his
Travels mu certainly have received great advantage and improve
ments from his _review. Tho I queion not, hut in theirpreent ate
they will meet with uch a reception from the puh/ic, as will reward
the lahours of the learned Father, hy a proper incouragement given
to his indurious Son. ' '

I SHALL only add, that ome intimation having heen given of a

Map, deigned to he puh/i/hed with this hooh, that wasjudged after
wards not o neceary, as at was apprehended; ince there are
h many maps already extant of tho/e countries, which mahe theizh
ject o thee Travels. And therefore as the principal ue ofuch a
mapwould have heen to exhihit hoth the antient and modern names
of everal places, which are mentioned hy our author; an lndex
was thought more commodious for that purpoe. Bcdes, as he has
occiionally introducedmany Turhih and other foreign words, without
ers-plaining them; this aords likewie an opportunityfor their expli
cation. As the henet of the reader has heen conulted in this altera
tion; o it is not to he douhted, hut he will nd the advantage of it
in peru/ing the worh.
Augu 12,
_ 1747

lit. MEAD.

Gw * TRAVELS
 A. Mr. Samuel Buckley;
O R D Vicount Andover. r. Samuel Burch.
Swirhin Adee,-D. M Mr. George Burrward.
Rev. Mr. William Allen, afLamberh.
.Rev. Mr. Altham, Rector ry" Woodord, in Eex. C.
Edward Andrews, 'Eq; William Earl Cooper.
Rev. Mr. Benjamin Archer. John Lord Vicozmt Calemain;
Rm. Mr. Richard Arnald, Rector ofThurcaon, Lord Charles Cavendih.
Leiceerhire. Lady Colerane.
Rev. Dr. Arey, Treaurtr of St. Paul's. Dr. Edward Chandler, Lord fBi/lm of Durham.
B Dr. Robert Clayton, Lord Bihop of Clogher.
William Cartwrighr ofAyno, Eg
Richard Earl of Burlington. i Cambridge.
Coum'cs ofBurlingron. Rev. Mr. Caie, Vicc-Chancel/or of
John Lord Berkeley of Straton. Cawley Humberon Cawley, Ez
John Cay, Eg; 'ct
Dr. Martin Benon, Lord Bihop of'Glouceer.
Dr. Joeph Butler, Lord Bihop of Briol. Sir John Chapman, Bart.
Rev. Dr. Baker, Redentia'y ofsr. Paul's. Mrr. Chelton.
Sir John Barnard. Mr. Richard Cheyn.
Mr. Savage Barrell. - Dennis Clarke, LL. D.
' Thomas Lennard Barrett, Eqz Mrs. Mary Clarke, '
Mr. Solomon Barton. Mr. Richard Clarke, 7101.'
Mr. John Baxter. Mr. Thomas Clarke.
Mr. Jo. Baxter. - Rcv. John Cleeve, B. D._
Rev. Robert Beachcrot, M I. Mr. George Collard;
Jl/Ir. Thomas Beale. Mrs. Collard.
William Belchier, Eq; Valens Comyn, Eh;
jl/Iy', George Bell. John Conyers, Eq;
Sir Edward Bellamy. Mr. Richard Cooke.
Captain Bennerr. John Cookes, Ea;
William Henry Bernard, Eh; . Mr. George Cornwall.
Elias Bird, Eq; ' Mr. William Cramond.
.Mr. James Bird. ' Mr. George Crawl'ord.
Mr. Alexander Black. > Mr. Gideon Craword.
Mr. John Crichlowe.
zVr. William Black.
William Blackbourne, E o; zVr. David Crichon.
Rev. Mr. Blackbourne, icar qfDagenham. Sir John Cros, Bart.
Sir Henry Blunt, Bat-t. Thomas Crowe, M D.
M'. Richard Blunt. Mr. John Cruikhank.
William Blunt, Eq; Rev. Mr. Alexander Cuningham.
John Bond, E'Z; ' D.
Daniel Booth, o, William Duke of Devonhire.
M-s. Bowles. William Lord Digby.
Benjamin Bolanquet, M D. 4. Coies. Mr. Thomas Davion.
Samuel Boanquet, Eqz Richard Dawlbn, Eo;
Mrs. Boanquer. Mrs. Alice Deacon.
Samuel Bracebridge, of Linley, Eq; Mr. Thomas Delamotte.
Thomas Bradhaw o Upminer, Eq; Dr. Patrick Delaney, Dian of Downe.i
Thomas Bramon, o; Mr. William De Santhuns.
Mr. Edward Brice. Mr. William Dillingham.
Rev. John Brice, 11. M Wr. Robert Dobon.
Rro. Dr. Ralph Bridges. Mr. Woodroo Drinkwater.
Rev. Mr. Bruce. b William
I
 SUBSCRIBE RS NAMES.
William Duner, Eqs Dr. Thomas Herring, Lord drchlnhop of Can
Mrs. Duner. terbury.
E. Dr. Matthew Hutton, Lord Archbihop ofYork.
John Earl gf Egmont. Dr. Benjamin Hoadley, Lord Bihop ofwinchecr.
Mr. Thomas Eames. Hall ofUpton, in Weham.
John Eaton, Eq; Sir Joeph l-lankey.
Peter Eaton, Eq; James Hannott, Eq,
Richard Edwards, Eq, Mr. Edward Harding.
Mr. George Ellis. Mrs. Harle of Raynham.
Mr. John Ellis. Mr. John Harris.
Rev. John Emeron, A. M. Mr. Robert Harris.
Mrs. Elizabeth Eon. Mr. Peter Hartopp.
Sir John Evelyn, Bart. William Harvey, Eo;
Anthony Ewer, Eq, Robert Harward, Eg;
RZ'U. Mr. Ewer. Mr. John Hatch.
Mr. William Ewer. Mr. Cocn Haverkam.
Mr. Thomas Ewer. Riv. William Hawkins, A. M Fellow of Peru
Il-Ir. George Exton. broke College, Oxford.
Mr. Joeph Eyre. Mr. Alexander Hay.
Rev. Dr. Hayter, drchdeacon tzf York.
F. Mrr. Mary Heilman.
Sir Everard Fawkener. Mr. NVilliam Herou.
Mr. Felix Fea. Andrew Hill, Eq;
Daniel Finch, Eq; Mr. Edward Hillerdon.
Riv. Mr. John Finch. Mr. Roger Hogg.
Rev. Mr. Philip Fletcher, Dian of Kildare. Robert Holord, Eq;
Mr. Thomas Fletcher. George Holmes, E 95 F. R. S.
Rev. Mr. William Fletcher, Pribmdary of Chri Samuel Horman, . D.
Church, Dublin. Henry Lenoy Hunter, Eq;
Martin Folkes, Eq, Rev. Dr. Thomas Hunt, Canon if Chri Church,
Sir Andrew Fountaine. Oxford.
John Forbes, Eq; I. \
Mr. Thomas Forbes.
Alexander Forreer, Eq; Mr. George Jackon.
Rev.1llr. Thomas Foxley, Rtctor of Stratford Samuel Jebb, M D.
by Bow.
Edward Ironde, Eq,
Aaron Franks, Eq; Mr. Peter Jullian.
William Jones, Eq;
Napthaly Franks, Eq; ,
Rev. Mr. Tho. Juon, Rector of Wanead.
Mr. James Fuller.
Thomas Fytche, Eq; K.
G. Dutche/i ry' Kent.
Dr. John Gilbert, Lord Bihop of Landa. Mr. Richard Kee.
Dr. Thomas Gooch, Lord Bi/Imp of Norwich. Joeph Keeling, Eq;
Mr. Benjamin Kenedy, dporhemry at Horn
Marchione of Gray.
Church, Eex.
Lady Grin. Mr. Thomas King.
Mr. Daniel Gallon. Dr. William King, Principal of St. Mary's Hall,
George Garrett, Eq,
Mrs. Gibon.
Oxford.
Mr. Richard Gildart, 7101. L
Mr. Francis Gillow. Thomas Duke of Lecds.
George Girardot, Eq; Thomas Earl ty" Leicecr.
Mr. John Goddard, 2 Copiis. Countes of Leiceer.
Peter Godfrey, Eq; Dr. Samuel Lile, Lord Bihop of St. Aiph.
Mr. Sherman Godfrey. Hon. William Lyttelton, one of the Lord: if the
Mrs. Thomain Gouge. Treaury.
Mr. James Graham, 3 Copics. Mr. Daniel Lambert.
Rev. Mr. Richard Graves, Mr. James Leake.
Charles Gray, Eq, Joeph Letherland, Al. D,
Rev. Dr. Green, Prehmdary of Worceer. -- Legendre, Eq;
Rev. Dr. Grey, Rector of Houghton Conque, David Lewis, Eq,
Bedordhire. William Lewis, M D.
General Guie. smart Lethieullier, Eg,
H. R. Dr- Robert Leyborne, Principal of Alban
Philip Lord Hardwicke, Lord High Cham'tllor of Hall, Oxford.
Great Britain, 2 Copies. Lihrary
Lady Hardwicke.
 SUBSCRI'BERS NAMES.'
Library of Corpus Chrii College, Oxford. Mr. Godfrey Noke.
Lihrory of Braen Noe College, Oxford. Mrs. Dorothy Noke.
Lihrary if Corpus Chrii college, Cambridge. O _ v
Edward illy, Ea; * * . A
Mr. William Linday. Arthur Onowi E/YS speak" of t," Hall/2' of
Walter Long, Eq; G Common'
John Loveday of Caverham, Eq; "mal oglethorp
Henry Lowther, Eq; Mr. Edmund Orlabeer.
Rm. Mr. Lunn,Rector ofElworth, Cambridge- M'- Guavus Over
hire.
M- * Thomas Earl o Pomret.
Charles Duhe of Marlborough. John Earl of Pdrtmoutb.
George Earl afMackleseld. Count: s of Porrland.
Lord Charles Maynard. Lord tcount Palmeron.
Dr. Iaac Maddox, Lord Bzhap afworceen Lady Palmeron. v .*
Dr. Matthias Maw0n,Lord Bzhep efChicheer'. D'- John poes laft Lard drcbbihop of Canter=
Mr. William Macarland. bury.
Mr. Alexander Mackintoh. Lord Chief Baron Parker.
Mr. Charles Mackintoh. Mr. Clement Paillen
Mr. John Mackintoh. John Pateron, Eq;
Mr. Alexander Macrabie. Robert Paul, Efa,"
Mr. Francis Magnus. Rev. Dr. Pelling.
Rev. John Mall, A. II. Mr. James Pennett.
Rev. Dr. Simon Manningham. Barbara Pepys.
Mr. John Manwaring. Philip Percivall, Eg;
Henry March, Eq; ' Rtv. Thomas Perehoue, A. M Chaplain to L-z';
John March, Eq; _ Graee the Duhe of Gordon,
John March, J'urr. Eq; Meeurs Philips and Wood.
Mr. Richard Markham. Rev. Mr. Roger Pickering, 2 Copiu. l i
Robert Marh, Eq, Mr. John Powell. 'L
Rev. John Maryon, LL. B. Rrv. Mr. John Powell, ofRaynham. '
kagepgolillather, D. D. Preidmt of Corpus Joeph Pratt, Ea;
ri i ege, Oxford. Mr. Richard Pratt.
fs'l/lnwill'lilmothly/1 Matthews, Mr. Andrew Pringle.
ir ' iam
Richard Mead, aynard,
M D. Bart. Mr. Richard
Arthur Pulli
Pyoutf.er.
Mr. Thomas Melmorh. O
Rev. Mr.Melward,
Edward Micklebourgh.
M D. Mr' Thomas Qmme'
Mr. Richard Molineux. R,
Mr. William
James Monro,Monke
M Di 2 Cup its. Big] FZZZFZ'
Han. James Montague, Eq; Andctrew Reid E , i
George
Mr. Montgomerie,
Edward Moore. Erz Mr John
Mr' wiuiam'nicisizld
Rigg i
Sir Charles Mordaunr, Bart. Mr, Rigg i
Mr. Richard Morhall. Mr 'ChrEO her Robert,
Rev. Dr. Mos, Canon Reidmtiary of Sarum. Hugh Robcets, E '
M'z jafms Mount' Mr. William Roberion.
Bemimm MOW- Erz Francis Rock, Eq,
N, Mr. Samuel Roey.
Lad Newdi te. Mnjatnes Rogers.
Ricfmd Na, E Mr. Grles Rookc.
Mr. George Nelon. M'- ROP?" Roe- .
Mr. Thomas Nelon, Rev. William Rothene, A. M
Robert Ncsbirr, M D. Thopas Rawom> EY'
Mr. Gabriel Nevc, 5 copiu' William Ruell ofSrubbers, Ej

John Newe, Eq; s,

Mr.
Rev. Richard Newman.
Dr. Nicolls, Chaplain in Ordinary to his Anthony Earlafshasbury'
.
G Majey. E Dr.
Dr. Thomas
Richard Secker LordB'h
Smallbi'oke, O d
LirZpBZLopXQZrIJrCh
eorge Nodes, o; eld and Covcntry
JVr. James Selwyn Noke. ' M
l '.
 s nuns c R i B;E,R-S N A M E s.
Mr. David Salomons. Mrs. Tollct.
Lady Salter. Richard Tonon, Eo;
Ran. Dr. John Sava e. - Mrs. Touchetr.
Mayer Schamberg, . D. Mrs. Towne, 2 Copies.
Iaac Schamberg. D. Mz: Towne.
Mr. Richard Sclater. Thomas Towers, Eq;
Mr. Iaac Scotr. Mr. William Turpin.
Mr. Thomas Scott. ,'
Mr. John Searle. * p X _- , V.
George Auguus Selwyn, rEqe Sir Peter Vandeput.
Mr. Richard Shergold. Mrs. Vanrixton.
The Hon. Mrs. Shirley. Mr. George Udny.
Mr. Richard Shirley. W
Mr. James Short. Dr.Joeph Wilcox, Lord Bihop of Rochecxz
Mr. David Simon. . .. Mr. Samuel Vi/ade.
John Skinner, Eg; 'r ' Mr. John Wainwright.
Matthew Skinner, Eq; t -. Mr. William Walker.
Stephen Skinner, Ejq; Mr. James Wall.
Mr. Smith o Coventry. 'l ' Mrs. Walter.
William Sotheby, Eq; ' Mr. John Ward,R/>et. Prof. in Greham College.
George Spearman, Eq; _ Richard Warner, Eo;
Mr. John Spencer. . Rev Mr. Langhorn Warren.
Rev. Dr. Stebbing, Chancellor of.Sarum. Mr. Peter Warren.
James Stephens, M D. .7' Philip Carteret Webb, Eq;
Mr. Edmond Stephens. ..\ . John Webroke, Eq;
Mr. John Strutt. p John Wilkes, Eo;
Mr. George Stubbs. . >' Rev. Dr. Willon.
T, '\- ' William Woolball, Eq;
Richard Earl ofTilney. i * Irael Woollaon, Eq; 2 Caier."
Dr. John Thomas Lord Bihop z-Peterborough. Daniel Wray, Eq;
Dr. Richard Trevor, Lord .Bz'hp of St. David's. Matthew Wymondeold, Eq;
Mr. Abjon.Ta lor. J -\ Rev. Mr. John Wyatt zFeled, Eex.
John Temple, o," 20 Copies" ' Rev. Mr. Wyatt, Vi'car of We Ham, iEex.
Mrs. Temple. i James Wytched, Eq;
Mr. Evans Thomas. Y. '
Mr. Harry Thompon. Dr. Yarborough, Principal of Braen Noe Col
Thomas Tickell, Eo; 2 Cor'ir. * lege, Oxford.
Mr. John Tilly. Hon. Charles Yorke, 2 Copiis.
Mr. John Tinney, 2 Copies. Hon. Philip Yorke.
Mr. Noah Titner. Dr. Young.
Mr. George Tollet.

TRAVELS
 ,__..---r- 4
u-rrc'

AND BACK TO

ENGLAND,
AN A C c 'o U N T of a journey round the antient Ionia,
from Smyrna, thro St. George's, Magnea, Durguth
li, Sardis, Birghe'e, 7j/ria, Ephcyus, and back to
Smyrna, in the year MDCXClX.

APRIL xxi. -- \6j_9

IG HT of our nation having lately deigned a viit to the
church of Epheus, by name, Meeurs Whalley, Duner,
Coventry, Ahe, Turner, Clotterbooke, Frye, and Chihull,
we had r a general meeting, to agree upon what was requiite
to the reolution we had taken; at which time Mr. Whalley kindly
undertaking the care of our proviions, and the government of our
intended journey, We propos'd to make a circuit of our way to
Epheis, that o we might have a larger atisaction in the ight
of thoe deli'ghtome places, or which Aia [Minor was always o
july celebrated.

B' . IN
2 AJoURNEY-om SMYRNA

IN proecution of this deign we intended to make our r cona'ch

at Norlicui, to which place having this morning dipatched our bag
gage upon mules, under the care of a janiary and two 'en/arms,
we ourelves et forward about three in the afternoon, with another
janiizry, dragoman, ervants, and other requiites. Our company
completed the number of twenty three light hore. Six or even
other gentlemen of the Englih factory were pleaed to accompany
us as far as Norlicui, where arriving in les than two hours, we all
found a kind and hopitable reccption from Mr. Benjamin Jones
and his lady. After a hort repa our freinds returned back to
tl'myrna, and left us employed in providing for our-elves and llOI'Es.
This care had now taken up the evening, when it being propoed,
that morning and evening prayers hould be conantly read to the
company during the whole journey, wc all readily embraced the
motion. Hereupon we immediately put this deign in execution,
and then pitched upon our lodging.

APRIL xxii.
Tr-rrs morning a quarter before ve we leave Norlz'cui, and pro
ceed on Magne/ia road in our way to St. George's village, expecting
to ee the ceremonies, which the Greek Chriians there perform on
the twenty third inant, which is the eival of that aint. And
having acended the top of the adjoining hill, we there make an
halt for our mules, and take that opportunity of looking back, and
enjoying the delightful propect, which this place aorded us. We
had then the gap of Nymphe on our left hand, and village of Pa
lamtitcui on our right, which is plcaantly eated on an acent, under
a grove of pine trees; but before us lay extended the whole plain
between the hills of Tartalzie1 and Cordi/ieu, being terminated with
the view of the Two Brothersz, the city, cale, and bay ofSmyrna.

Wa continue our journey over the hill, till arriving at an old

burying place, we begin to decend by a paved way to a large and
high bridge of one, built over a mall, but clear and urling river.
From hence we pas on to the groves of _7acdcui, which is a vil
lage eated on the right hand upon an acending ground, and front
ing the edge of Tartalhe. Here we again halted, and drank a
* ram/te eems to be the Mauia of 1 The Two Brothers are two eminenccs
the anrients, well decrib'd by Pliny, Lih. V. of Mons Cotycus, concerning which ee
cap. 29, to lie a tergo Smyrnae. Straho, Lih. xiv. p, 670.
1 dih
 to E P H' E s U s and hach again. 3'
dih o coee, partly to wait or our mules, and partly 'to enter
tain ourelves with a view of the plain o Nymphe, into which we
had a narrow propect between the forementioned village and the
ridge of the oppoite mountain. After this we acend a tedious
and craggy hill, with which tho we were now coniderably a
tigued, yet we had ill courage enough to reject the propoal,
which was there made, o baiting, and taking the advantage o a
fair commodious fountain, which ows on our right hand from
the top of the hill. We therefore proceed about the pace of an
hour in tolerable good way, till at the decent of the mountain we
encounter a rugged and uneay paage; the road being either
choaked up with looe ones, or ele worn into abrupt and de
cending eps. This obliged us to dimount, and lead our hores
down the precipice; where we nevertheles received ome 'little
atisaction, in oberving the veins of red and white marble, with
which each ide of this troubleome way is garnihed. At the
foot of the hill we cros a rivulet, and quickly after repamg the
ame, ride from thence rait forward in a covert and narrow bot
tom, which in les than hal an hour leads us into the plains of
Magneia. After a hort repa in this place we mount our
hores, turning to the let out o the road of Magnca; and
tho we were now not more than hal an hour from our
intended coude/i, yet we ride on by miake too much to the
right hand; till, having advanced beyond the town and cale
of Magneia, we come to a Turkih village, where we were
directed almo back again to St. George's. Here we arrived about
one a clock, and made it our r buines to pitch our tent for
the ue o our ervants, whil we ourelves were received into a
little houe, which aorded us the convenience o one chamber,
and a opha', for lodging.

AFTER diner we took a walk about the village, and viited the
low humble church, which is here permitted to the Greek
Chriians. It has outwardly the marks of no inconiderable
antiquity, and within it is the exact mode] of the primitive
Greek churches; coniing r of the rect/owe or outward
chapel, then the roioc or hody of the church, with three paages
rorn the one into the other, and after all a chancel eparate
from the nave by lattice work. We here oberved no other
Ornaments, than the pictures o St. George, the Virgin lWary,
St. _7ohn, and St. Nicholas, and another o our Savior on the roof
of
4 A'JoURNEY-om SMYRNA
of the church, which conis of a regular cupola. Before the
altarlay the book of the Gopels, with three or four copies of divine
ervice; ome containing their ordinary Liturgy, and others adapted
to peculiar months of the year. The Greeks were now ocking
hither to perform their devotions before the picture of St. George;
and the uperition of a woman was remarkable, who prorated
her little infant at the feet of the faint, and eagerly roking the
picture endeavoured to convey ome hidden bleing to the body
of the child.

APRIL xxiii.
THIS morning we mounted about nine a clock, when the
Greeks were preparing for the ceremony of the day. It was pleaant
to ee them ock together to the number of ome thouands, be
ing of dierent ex, age, and quality; but all equally regardles
of the dirt and rain, which then fell very plentifully. We fol
lowed them on horeback a little mile out of the village to a large
turpentine tree, under the hade and covert of which they had
placed the faints, which we had before oberved in the church; and
there celebrated their mas. This was no other, than what is or
dinary in the rites of the Greek church; except only, that it eemed
to have ome particular reference to St. George. It may be here
proper to oberve, that as the prie made two elevations of the
elements, the one before, and the other after conecration; the
people equally adored them at the former, as well as at the lat
ter Before the conecration of the wine was completed, the
prie mingled a little warm water in the cup, and afterwards put
the luocgyotprirne, or conecrated hread, therein. All which he, and
the deacon who aed him, received; and after the whole ce
remony one of his aiants diributed two loaves ofunconecrated
bread= in little peices to the people, which they received with as
' This practice of the Greek church, at were at r but a meer bodily repect to
the r elevation of the elements, is what the elements, and implied nothing of a di
givesju oence both to the Roman and Re- vine adoration.
formed churches; for tho of late they have 1 To uch as are not conceiv'd always
generally embraced the doctrine of tranub worthy, or ready to communicate, the
antiation, yet by this act they pay a divine Greeks after thecelebration of their Liturgy
worhip to the bread and wine even before diribute the a'i'Jwgov, or hread harely
this pretended converion into the body and hleed, but not conecrated; which they
blood of Chri. Not but that this ober conceive to be a ymbol of the body of the
vation may be well improved to evince the Virgin Mary, and to be given inead of
novelty of this peruaion among the Greeks; that of Chri.
and to hew, that both thee ceremonies
much
 to E P H E s U s and hach again. 5
much hurry as uperition. The congregation now break up,
and carry back their aints in a tumultuous manner, one ill
endeavouring to catch them from another; while he that carries
them, runs with what peed he can, and often rikes his head
with the board, on which they are painted, as a voluntary
penance for his ins.

THIS ceremony ended, we turned aide to atisfy our Curioity

with the ight of the famous river Hermus, which ows carce
two bow's hot below the turpentine tree mentioned above.
This large and noble river yeilds an entertaining ight, epecially
when it abates omething of its uual fulnes. It appears graced
on each ide with a andy helving bank. The neighbouring pa
ures aord abundance of tamarisk, and on the edge of the river
aparagus is very plentiful. It may be oberved, that as the poets
of old called it the golden ', o the Turks at preent call it the
ilver reamed Hermus ; either of which names it eems to de
erve from that bright and hining and, which its water wahes.
But though the and be clear, yet the water is ill thick and
muddy *, and well anwers ome epithets of that nature, which
are beowed upon it in antient poetry.

IT was now pa midday, when we return to the village, and

after the refrehment of a diner prepare for our departure towards
Magneia. Our way thither lay through the ame plain, into
which we entered yeerday at one a clock; where the beauty
and verdure of this campain countrey made amends for the
great rain, which annoyed us all this day, as well at the Greek
ceremony, as now in our way to Magnca.a

IN two hours from St. George's We begin to enter Magnea,

not without a ju admiration of its delicious ituation at the foot
of mount Sipylus ; from whence it was antiently called Magneia
ad SipyIum, to diinguih it from that other, which ood near
the river Meander 3. Having rode into the city, we began to
be in dires for an houe to receive us ; for an uncertain recom

1 Nec puleber Ganges, atque auro turhidus 3 Liv. Lib. xxxvii. cap. 37. Cirea
Hermus, Magmiam, quae ad Sipylam e, poait
Laudihus Italiae certent.Virg.Georg. ii. r 3 7. cara. ldem cap. 44. /I Magmjia, quae ad
*Non illi atis e tarhato ora'idas auro Meana'runz eft, et ah Epheh legati ad (leden
Hermus. Mart. L. viii. Ep. 77. das urhes venerunt.

C menda
6 A JOURNEY ain SMYRNA
mendation, which we had hitherto over credulouly relied on, we
now found to have micarried. This was oberved by an eendi,
who aw us pas under his window, and therefore courteouly
acquainted us by his ervant, that if we wanted accommodations,
we might be welcome to his houe. We gladly embraced the
motion, and were conducted into a garden, where we were
aorded the ue of a pleaure houe, coniing of a large opha'
room, a kitchen, and an open hioh, with a beautiful fountain
in the middle. The c-ndi himelf came down, and welcomed
us to our apartment, adding withall, that if we had any other
freind to rely upon, he would not deprive us of a better enter
tainment; if not, he bid us freely make ue of what this place
aorded. Returning to his houe he preented us with a lamb,
and deired to know, if there was any thing ele, with which
he was capable of obliging us. By our dragoman he likewie in
formed us, that the cadz' of the city was at that time making
him a viit, before whom it might not be improper for us to hew
ourelves ; but at the ame time not to come empty handed.
According to this motion we waited upon the cadii with two ohes
of ugar, and as many of coee. He received us and our pre
ent very obligingly; and upon the ehndi's invitation, we there
drank a dih of coffee in the company of everal Turks, who
eemed to be of the better rank, and behaved themelves gentilely,
that is, according to the genius of this haughty people, with an
agrcable mixture of civility and reervednes.

THIS ceremony performed, we returned to our garden, and

there entertained ourelves at upper with ju and grateful re
ections on the great courtey and hopitality of our landlord,
whoe name we had now learnt to be Mahomet cendi. His ha
bitation is very pleaant, yet not o much for the fplendid fur
niture of his houe, as for that various and diverting propect,
which it commands over the plain of Hermus ; though indeed this
is an advantage, which by reaon of the acending ituation of
Magneia is common to the meane cottage in the city. lt eem
ed range to us to oberve everal pieces of painted glas in the
windows of our cendi's houe, incribed in Turkih characters
with the name of the proprietor, together with ome religious
entences of Mahometan devotion. But we were much more
urprized, when we were informed, that it was the mannfacture
of this place; for it is ained with a beautiful as well as dees
3 an -
 to E P H E s U s and hack again. 7
and durable colour, and comes up to the perfection of the be,
we have een in England. This gave us occaion to reect on
the dierent fortune of arts and ciences, which, like men, eem
to take delight in hifting their ation; for while other arts
have now left thee places, and traveled weward, this alone in
exchange for all the re eems to have retired into this, and is
deplored as lo in Chriendom.

APRIL xxiv.
WE propoe to pcnd this day at Magneia, in order to oberve'
what may further occur there remarkable. To this end we were'
favoured with the company 'of a janirry by one Mahmu't aga',
to whom this morning we made a hort viit 5 he being the per
on, to whom at r we expected to have been recommended.
The janiary conducted us to the two principal moaues of the'
city, to a religious college of dervies, to a madhoufe, and to an
old eraglio, where the young princes of the Ottoman empire'
have formerly been educated. At the la of thee there remain
only the reliques of two or three rich tiva'ns, and a coniderable
number of ately old Cypres trees, to witnes the former grandeur
of the place. At the madhoue we could oberve nothing beides
the bare walls of that hopital, and a bralis mortar lying in the
yard, which eemed to be remarkable for an old Latin incrip
tion, which it bore, ignifying that it was made at Pia.
The religious college is a fair one building, coniing of one
quadrangle, and that encompaed with a regular cloier, which
is upported with pillars of the modern Greek module. The two
,moques, which we mentioned, are diinguihed from the re,
in that they are of royal foundation, an honour which is ignii
ed by the two minarhes belonging to them; whereas the other
eighteen, with which this city is furnihed, have but, one a
piece. Before each of thee moques there is a quare and regu
lar area, containing a beautiful fountain in the middle, and en
cloed on three ides with Cells of religious Turks. The front
of the mofgue makes the fourth ide of the quare, and is itelf
likewie adorned with a pacious portico upported with ately
pillars, of which ome only are topt with modern capitals. But
as the capitals of the re are of the old Corinthian order, o all
the hafts appear plainly to be antient; ome Coniing of natu
ral
 8 A JOURNEY from SMYRNA
ral and others of ca articial marble, but both the one and the
other bound near the pedeal with rings of may bras.

BEFORE we could be admitted into the inide, we were oblig

ed to comply with the zeal of the Turks, who always leave
their hoes at the entrance of their moques. Here we found
them both much
was richer than reembling
the other;one
andanother,
whereasexcepting
the roofthat
of one
the A

other conied of ve cupolas, the roof of this was regularly

contracted into one. We had now the liberty to view eve
ral copies of their Alcoran, and other books of Mahometan
prayers, all curiouly written and adorned with golden gures.
The windows are furnihed with excellent painted glas, full of
ower work and religious incriptions; and from the roof hangs
a multitude of lamps, together with bright balls contrived to re
Hect the light, all of them well ranged in a beautiful and artificial
manner.

IN each of the royal moques we further oberved a plendid

hihlh, which is a part eparate from the body of the moque, and
anwering to the altar of our Chriian churches; it is adorned
with a rich oor and gilded roof, together with carving and
moaic work on each ide, but more particularly in the front,
which is contrived to face jllecca. immediately to the right
hand of the hihlcF ands a lofty pulpit, being fourteen eps
high, and coniing of a portal, rails, and canopy, all of
wrought marble. One thing was remarkable as well in thee
moaues, as in that which we afterwards aw at Epheus, though
we know not whether it has any myical reference to the
Turkih uperition; it is a nich in the front of the hihle', on
each ide of which ands a ne lender pillar, hewn out of one
entire one, made without capita] or pedeal, but o xed with
in the work both above and below, that it remains moveable, and
is turned about by the hand at pleaure.

THIS ight of Magnca was. our employment before diner,

but in the afternoon we all attempted to acend the cale hill
on foot; which we quickly found to be a more dicult and
. painful task, than we at r imagined. The way was inex
preibly eep and craggy, and co us an hour's labour, though
we made all poible pccd; nor after our return could we blame
the
 to EPHESUS and &ac/2 again. '9
the dicretion o one o our companions, who thought t to re
tire about the midway. However having at length conquered the
acent, our toil was well rewarded with the urprizing propect of
the .city, and adjacent plain; in the latter of which we could
diinguih the whole coure of the Hemms or many miles to
gether, as alo the places where the Ammis Phrygius, or Hyl/m,
joins lt '.

THE abric of the whole cale is very rong, and the advan
tage of a hill, which is on all ides a mile high, mu have ren
dered it impregnable, in an age which knew not the ue o gun
powder. lt was formerly ortified with a coniderable number
of great guns, which are now removed to the new cale, which
deends the bay of .Vmyma. Two only remain on a baion, that
fronts the city ; on both which we were orry to ee the eagles of
the Roman empire. No other apartment of the cale is now
kept locked, except a dungeon, in which there were twelve pri
oners, lately ent thither by Oma'nogli. A ight of thee mie
rable wretches we deired of the aga', nor was he o crupulous as
to deny it us. The ame aga' likewie hewed us within the
precincts of the cale a poor Chtiian church, dedicated to the
memory o St. John; where the Greeks meet upon the day o
his ea, and are at the conant charge o two lamps, which burn
there throughout the year. We had read and heard of a collec
tion of Roman arms, reerved omewhere in this cale; tho being
upon the place, nothing of this nature occurred to us. But Soly
ma'n &end-i, a mo courteous and obliging peron, whom we
viited this evening, as being the next neighbour, as well as bro
ther of our landlord, aured us, that having many years ince had
the Curioity to acend the cale hill, he then aw under ground
the collection which we pake of, coniing of headpieces, brea
plates, hields, and the like.

r T HE mountainous parts about Magneia were antiently famous

or the production of the loadone '; tho indeed it is diparaged
' Ka'laoge'lm .r a' main-All; sir ctEeF-dn, 11: idem a Lydia Lydius, et ab Hemclea Hera
Svxal o'ctTAAo; SPCJAM', wvl che-lyue; mail-nag. clius dictus e. Hill in Dionyf Periegen.
Strabo, Lib. xiii. pag. 626. Tho he eems tobcmiaken in confound
1 Magma ad Sipylum, a qua magmu Ia- ing this one with the touchonc, or lapz's
pis errum attrabem nomen ortiltu a -, at Lydius.
D by

-_ -v_,..,- _.<
 -_,_-*;

ro AJoURNEYfrom SMYnNgt:
by Pliny ', and accounted lefs attractive, than that of other places.
However this probably was the city, from whence, as Lucretius ays,
that one took the name of magnet 2; as from the whole country
of Lydia the touchone likewie was called lapis Lydius'; This
hint gave us the Curioity to carry a ea compas up the cale
hill, where we had the atisfaction to ee it point to dierent
quarters, as we then placed it upon dierent ones, and quickly
after intirely to loe its whole virtue; two eects which are na
tural to the magnetic needle, when injured by the nearnes of
other bodies impregnated with the ame quality.

LATE in the evening we were now preparing for repoe, and

endeavouring to forget the fatigue of the cale hill ; when Soly
ma'neendi, having laid aide the badges of his character, and
put on a more familiar temper, returned our viit. We doubted
not from the change of his habit, and the uneaonablenes of the
hour, but he came to break a Mahometan commandment, and
eal his kief (as the Turks pleaantly expres it) in the juice of
the forbidden grape 4. This was a tedious and ungrateful task,
with which nevertheles, by reaon of his own and his brother's
great civility, ome of our company were forced to comply. Nor
had theinwine
clock he freely drank
the morning. ct its deired eect, till towards two a

APRIL xxv.

ourWe begin take

baggage to rieleave
by ve this morning,
of [Mahomet andtoafter
cndii, whoedifpatching
ingular
humanity and hofpitality we had hitherto been o much obliged.
As we were riding thro the city, it was pleaant to recollect ome
thing of the ancient hiory of this place, whoe preent ate we
had een the day before. It there occurred to us, that this was
that Magneia, which of all the Aian Cities s made the r ub
mion to the Roman arms, after the defeat of Antiochus by Scipio.

PNat. Hi. Lib. xxxvi. cap. 16. pam; quem alii Lydium, alii Heracliutn
1 Lapis hic ut ferrum a'uccre pot, vocant. Plin. Lib. xxxiii. cap. 8.
Quem magneta vocant patriode nomineGraii, 4 Like what driides ays: 'O (PIMHQ
Magnetum quia it patriis in nihus ortus. six n'yc-i-rau (win-i, a' uncle-i; wind' who-'la num'
L. vi. it. 608. o-ED. Orat. Platonic. prim. pag. 182. edit.
2 Auri argentique mentioncm comitatur lapis, P. Steph.
quem coticulam appellant; quondam nonoli- 5 Liv. Lib. xxxvii. cap. 44. Legati ah
tus inveniri n in umine Imo/o, nunc vero Thyatira et Magne/ia ad Sipylum ad redden
das
 to E'P H E s U s and hach again. Ir

This likewie was that Magncia, which entered into a league of

fenive and defenive with the city of Smyrna in the reign of
Seleucus on of Antiochus Theus, whereby the inhabitants of the
one were mutually made free of the other city; and whereas pu
blic monu ments of this confederacy were by agreement of both par
ties to be erected in dierent places, one of them, which waset
up by the Smyrneans, is now to be een in the gallery at Oxford,
incribed on a large flat marble pillar '.

THERE now carce occur any reliques of antiquity in Magncia,

except that we oberved everal Ionic and Corinthian pillars in the
court of an old moque, held in great veneration by the Turks for
the burial of Haa'nogli, a peron famous in the hiory of that
nation. Over one of the entrances into the ame court there is
to be een a broken incription of an antient heathen temple, tho
too high to be now legible; and on a one ep, placed before
the principal moque of the city, we could read among other de
cayed words KAIZAPI ZEBAZTQ. The following incription like
wie is of no contemptible antiquity, which we found on a one
now lying in the aircae of the abovementioned Solyma'n e
fendi.
ZTATLQ KQAPATO. ANOTIIATQ i AAEE'ANAPOE AIO

FNITOT EHEZKETAZE TO MNHMElON EATTO. KAI TOIZ

IAIOIZ EKFONOIE MHAENI AE EEEZTQ AHAAAOTPIQZAI
ATTO EK TOT FENOTZ MOT EAN AE TIZ AHAAAOTPIQZH
THETOTNOZ EZTO. EIZ TON KAIZAPOZ <IZKON X. P. g.

das urhes vcnerunt, ays this hiorian, im the Eprlc of the church ofSmyrna. But this
mediately after the action betwixt Scipio and one conrms that correction, which has
Antiochus. This action is at large decribed been made by bihop Pearon and Vale tus.
by Appian as well as Livy, as happening be It likewie favours that learned argument
twixt Thyatira and Sardis, upon the banks maintained by bihop Pearon, Diert. ii.
of the A'mnis Phrygius, near Magneia ad cap. xvi, xvii. pag. 29r, by which he places
Sipylam; which is not the Hermus (as ome this proconulhip and the martyrdom of St.
have thought) but a river'running into the Polycarp in the tenth year of Antoninus
Hermus, which Homer and Herodotus call Pius, A. C. 147. For in the fourth year
Hyllus, as Straho relates in the paage cited of M Antoninus, to which the Alexandrian
above, p. 9. Chranicle refers it -, as alo in the year r67,
lSee Marm. Oxon. ed. ab H. Prid. pag. r. to which it is referred by Euehius and Vale
* This Statius Quadratus was that very ius; there were two Cacars, concerning
proconul, in whoe preence, and by whoe whom Eutropius ays: Tunc primam Rom.
authority, St. Polycarp, bihop of Smyrna, repuhlica duohus acquo jare imperium admi
was burnt alive in the amphitheatre of that nirantihus paruit, cum uYue ad eum ingu
city. His name is falely written 'ral-nor K. losemper hahuzetduguos. Lib.viii. cap. 5,
in the Alexandrian Chronicle, and E-rgai-noc in But this incription mentions only one Cae
er.
 12 A JOURNEY am SMYRiNA
The aid ckndi not only civilly informed us of this one, but i

when we had trancribed the words, he profered to end it after

us to Smyrna; adding, that if it was any piece of anctity, he
was unwilling it hould remain there to be trampled under foot.

DESIGNING from hence'or Durgut/ali, we continue our jour

ney under the foot of &py/m, which about two hours from the city
ends in a upendous precipice, coniing of a naked may one,
and riing Perpendicularly almo a furlong high. It was not a
little urprizing, as we rode along under the oot o this hill, to
oberve a certain cli of the rock, repreenting an exact nich and
atue, with the due hape and proportion of an human body. For
Sipylm being the eat of the transformation of the unhappy Niabe',
there was ground of imagining, that we had either met with her
atue, or with that which was the r occaion of the fable; at
lea it was not improbable, that this was the work of ome an
tient inhabitants of this place, who pleaed themelves in ahion
ing the natural rock into uch a gure, as might preerve the tra
dition of this celebrated poetic ction.

NOT ar from hence we begin to leave the mountain on our

right hand, having the ream of the Hemms in view on the left;
and at a large diance before us the nowy top of the mountain
Tmolus. Our road now lay thro a verdant and delightful plain,
inriched by many advantages of nature, and not negligently ma
nured by the inhabitants. About the fourth hour of this day's
journey we paed a bridge, erected over a large river 5 which, as
thoe of the country informed us, is now called Niphti, or Nympbe,
and may probably be the Cryas mentioned by Pliny, as one of the

Zzr, in the ingular number. And as for the Scbolz'a, uually acribed to Dia'ymm,
that qadratm, whom Burbm'us and U- have the following remark: (Dew-grow I'
eriu: will have proconul in iia i-n the year niv Nzo'Cq' &Qui-m; wi mim dvs'uix'ma, ZoC;
169, his name was not Statius, but T. N't- iMn'o-aec e'c AN" psrfcumv, 39 ii, Fine' vil' c'w
midiur. See alo mention of Qradratus in Znnikty 15; Opuyfa; &fairer-dey' minu- mya';
Ariidi: Orat. Genetbliac. in Apellm z and (laurer-'m U'QOAP'FLL-O. And Pauanias, ittic.
in his sermon. Sacror. iv. Lib. i. cap. 21. ays: Ten-'Tin m" Naa'Gm i,
' Ka) ya'e 1' n'ctxoyO Nio'cn iw-'ia'ae-n tri-ry, ere. cal-nis- gdov aiveAOalv is' 'rein XiwuAov 'ni dgu
NGv Je' wxevwfrgyo'w, by Jew" oio'ro'Aom-n, 'Hell arm-n'ou- PJZJ mi-regz il, xgnpuaic in', x'oliev
'Ev Zmu'Aqi, 36: carl Seaiwv 'sangen-m dz'vai: wage/'m xua WnErXJHXA-O yon-suit, ii're
Nuyqaaiwv, a'lr' ai/AP' >Az'At-iiov &ain-mea, aE'AAau, sir' snoring' a' ell'- y' wop'p'wrigu yfmo,
yEa, AI_9@- wlg EEw, Brain s'x ztviclw 'Eut-1. JrelaxgvFLJuv dign; o'gav QIZM'IOZ yumZxa.
Ham. Iliad. u. 602. On which paage
1 reams
 to E P H E s U s and hack again. 13;
reams that feed the Hermus '. From this bridge the road lies
thro a les fertile plain, till within the neighbourhood of Durguth
li it is again better cultivated, and appropriated to the produ
ction of cottons. Near our entrance into the town we cros a
broad and andy Chanel, which in the winter eaon conveys no
inconiderable current into the Hermus. We had here no other to
rely upon, than the accommodations of a public kane, where, af
ter we had ixed our lodgings, we foundthat we had arrived in
ix hours from Magneia 5 tho an hour is to be deducted for the
res, which we were obliged to make for the ecurity of our mules.

DURGUTHLl is a town purely of Turkih fabric, and therefore

has nothing to entertain the Curioity of any traveler, beides the'
management of Cotton wool; which is here prepared in great ab
undance, and o tranmitted to the market of Smyrna. As to
this we oberved, that they r ift it from the du and other re
fue, which it contracts in gathering, in a large wicker wheel;
after this they eparate the wool from the cod, in which it grows;
and at la they work it betwixt a wooden and iron roller, which
pinning upon one another in a rapid motion draw in the wool,
and leave the feed behind.

WALKlNG up and down about the limits of our kane, We were

accoed by a Turk, who pake good Italian. He had been many
years a lave in Legorn, where he was a witnes to the riches and
plendor of Italy, and other parts of Chriendom. This gave
him occaion to expres a ju indignation again the haughty
ignorance of the Turks; who, tho they want all advantages of
art, and appearance of true magnificence, yet have the vanity to
depife other nations, who enjoy both to a great perfection. In
other difcoure with an Armenian prie we were informed of a
church, which by a peculiar grant of the Grand Signior that na
tion had newly founded in Durguthli. This was an inance,
which eemed to us obervable; for tho Chriianity is tolerated
in Turkey, yet they hold it inconient with their law to per
mit the erection of any new churches, and allow only the liberty
of repairing old ones.
1 Plin. Lib. v. cap. 29. ASmyrna Her- tatem, multo/hue colligituvios, inter quo:
nrus amnis campos facit, et nornini uo adop- Ilyllum et Cryon. ,
tat z oriturjuxta Dorglaenm Phrygiae civi

E WB
14 AJoURNEYm SMYRNA

WE parted in the cloe of the evening, and repaired in good

health to our repective lodgings. But about two in the morn
ing one of our company awaked under an indipoition, which
by degrees grew into a evere and dangerous icknes; tho by
timely opening a Vein, and after that enjoying a little repoe, he
recovered to the great atisaction of the whole company. How
ever this dicouraged us from proceeding, till another night's re
hould conrm his health. Being thus detained a day at Dur
gut/rli, we were informed of ome antiquities to be een among
the Armenian graves, on a mount adjoining to the town ,- whi
ther when
relic-w, we hadasrepaired,
brought, they aid,wefrom
ound a curious
Sardzir. piece
But no of ba
antient in
criptions appeared there, except thee imperfect words on a mar
ble tombone.

.. TPHAIQ KOTT . . . M.. . ZA AAEEINOOT .. . I), EKT .

AIATAFHZ . . . . . KAPMOT TO. IAIQ OIAQ . . . ETEPI'ETH

APRIL xxvii.
RISING early this morning all o us, God be thanked, in per
eCt health, we ill reolve to enlarge our circuit; whence Mr.
Coventry and Mr. Frye apprehending too long a journey, deter
mined to return to Smyma. The remaining part of our com
pany proceed by break of day in the road for Sara'is. Ju beore
we arrive at the fountain on our right hand, about half an hour
from our cona'ck, lies the village of Ihmaelja'. And in an hour
and an half from thence we oberve Urga'nlui on the let. We
continue our journey thro a patious and ertile plain, curiouy
beet on each ide the road with variety of round hillocks, which
from their number, gure, and ituation, in o level a carnpain,
appear plainly to be articial. They are undoubtedly the work
of one or more numerous arm'ies 3 but whether they were at r
deigned to bury their heaps of ain ' (which was the original of
thoe barrows *, that occur in many plains of England) or whether

' See mention of thee by Herodian, un- = The ene of the word barrows or &ur
der the name of miwu'ufgm, in his decrip- rough: is by I/'er/Iegan deduced from bury
tion of that maacre of the Alexandrians ing, and therefore well anwers the Greek
-by Caracalla, Lib. iv. cap. 17. edit. Oxen. waAuuvJgw. Chap. vii. p. 211.

they
 to EPHESUS mea' book again. '15
they were erected as thrones before the pavilion of the general,
which was uual in the Roman camp ', is not eay to determine.

ABOUT the fourth hour croing a mall river we have the village
of Baricle on the left hand, and larger than that, the village of
clometqleier on the right. Not far from hence the road divides
into two paths for Sardzis. The lower of thee we choe, tho
declining a little too much to the left hand, and o paing by a
few cottages, which are called by the name of Zerzicle, we ar
rive in even hours at Sardir, one of which is now likewie to be
deducted for the ay, which our mules occaioned.

IN STEAD of that Sardis, which antiently was the eat of the kings
of Lydia, afterwards in great renown, under the Perian, Grecian,
and Roman Empires, and at la honoured with the title of a Me
tropolitan Chriian church; we now nd in the ame place, at
the foot of mount Tmolus, a mall Turkih village by the name
of Sart. We here had the liberty of a ruinous inconvenient tane,
erected in this place for the ervice of caravoim from Peria; but
we much rather embraced the opportunity of pitching our tents
under the covert of a few plane trees, which pread a cool and
grateful fhade upon the bank of PafZolm. This river is conant
ly mentioned as riing in Tmolm, and wahing the Walls of Sar
dis, particularly it is aid by Herodoms to. run thro the very mar-'
ket place of the antient city *. Its chanel does not now appear'
to be coniderable, yet it deerved our particular notice for the
fame of its golden reams ; a ory celebrated not more by poets 3
than hiorians, the latter of whom have imagined this to be the
treaure, whence Croeus and his anceors collected that mighty
wealth.

BEFORE the cool of the evening we viited the ruins of this once'
ourihing city 3 and towards the weern part oberved the
anding walls of two or three patious and lofty rooms, not un

t Thus Lucan, Stotit aggere fultur p. 625. 'PJ J'o' Ham-(omit Sad 12? Tluoihx, na
Cejz'tz's. Lib. v. X' 316. ' ruCPfgm 73 'am-&- gun? &y-Pa 7raAu" aiP'
And Taritus, Annal. L. i. cap. 17. Con ii rniv Kgoi'crx Aeycilxxoov t'AE'm, i, 're-ii' wgoyo'mv
gerzmt cojites. See Lz'zii not. do'n? Europa/Shot' Od'.
z'iO; oCt tl-ZWM gun? xoa-racpaefm rim 12 3 Pazque no aurzerir tellus exire metal/is
THaiAg 243 Hem 12; dyoeiir p'tei, it, 'fare-m Es- Pacto/on, gun oulta ecat non 'vilior Her
'm' dEeluov w'o'raeptdv Fzzcdidoo' Et' &azi'xaarny. mus. Lucan. Libt ill. y' 209.
Lib. v. cap. 101. And Slraoo ays, Lib. xim '
worthy
16 AJoURNEYvm SMYRNA
worthy the palace of the antient kings of Lydia. They were
all arched towards the foundation, and adorned as well as
rengthened at each corner with hewn one ; but the main part
of the fabric conied of a broad and durable brick, which is
likewie obervable in mo of the antient ruins of a Minor.
From hence we paed thro heaps of rubbih, and tracks of con
tinued foundations, to the eaern part of the city ; where and
the pillars and front of another patious building, the gure and
ituation of which peruaded us, that they were the remains of
the cathedral church. A little outherly from hence we viewed
the full extent of another ately room, which however antient
it might be, was nevertheles raied out of ruins more antient than
itelf; as appeared from everal rich pillars, and architraves, con
fuedly placed among the rubbih of the walls. About the diance
of a furlong, full outh of the antient city, are to be een the
beautiful remains not of an amphitheatre, as has been uppoed, but
rather of ome royal palace. Here we oberved ix lofty Ionic
pillars, all of them ill intire, except that the capital of one is
diorted by an earthquake. There adjoins to them a fair and
magniicent portal, the pilaers of which, being about twenty
feet high, and twelve feet diant from each other, are joined at
the top by one entire one, which, by what art or force it was
there erected, is dicult to conceive; for tho Pliny' pretends to
account for the like diculty in the architecture of the temple of
Ephe/us, yet that paage gives but little atisfaction in the mat
ter. There occurs nothing ele, that is remarkable about ti'ardis,
beides the broken walls of the cale on an adjoining hill ; the
acent and propect of which, however magnified by Sir Paul
Rycaut, we yet thought o inferior, to what we lately had found
at Magneia, that it could not raie our Curioity to undertake the
climbing of that precipice, epecially ince we could promie our
elves'the ame propect to a greater advantage from the top of
Tmolus; and as for two or three broken incriptions, which are
there extant, we were content to perue them in Dr. Smith's
printed Journal 2. i

' Lib. xxxvi. cap. 14. Summa miracula, ections upon antient and modern learning,
epiyliatantae molis attollipotuie, etc. See pag. 67. edit. 1694.
mention of this diculty in Wotton's Re- 1 Epiolae quatuor, pag. r36, r 37.

APRlI.
 q-_---- '

( - iaEPiHEsUs am? bare again; 17

A P a 1 L Xxviii.
We had now determined our coure for Birg/Jee, towa'irds which ._'_. _4-_.

our way lay over the mountain Tmolus. In puruance of this de

ign we mounted quickly after three this morning, and by that
time it was full day we had acended the r edge of the hill,
where we halted to enjoy the entertaining propect 'of the plain
of Sara'z's. We had here the opportunity of viewing the cale
hill, the antient eat of the city, the whole coure of the Hermm',
and the full extent of the Gygaean lake, about five miles in
length, and three in breadth, mentioned in all antientaccounts of
Sardtis; but what renders it mo remarkable, celebrated of old by
Homer 1, and well decribed by Strabo to be about forty furlongs
from the city 3. This ight had now highly atised our Curioity,
when we turn to the right hand more into the body of the hill,
and contrary to our expectation rarely encounter any dicult
acent, by reaon of the articial windings of the way.

TMOLUS is in general o pleaant, that it was eay to conceive

ourelves in a theatre, where the cene changes every half hour;
for ometimes we were urprized with an impending rock, ome
times with a perpendicular precipice, and ometimes with the
murmurs of a falling brook 3 the whole being curiouy garnih
ed with trees, hrubs, and herbs of an innite variety.

IN four hours we had at length conquered the highe eminence

of the mountain, whence we continue our journey thro a fruit
ful vale, encloed on each ide with two lofty ridges of the hill.
On each of thee remains a large quantity of now, which, as
it gradually melts, upplies a rapid current, that decends hence
into Pafloilm. It was obervable, jhat the air of the whole vale
was chilled to that degree by the neighbouring nows, that it was
ill winter in this place; nor could we here dicern any buds or
leaves on the ame orts of trees, which we had een green and
flourihing on the kinder parts of the mountain.

' Term, ays Slrabo, Lib. xiii. pag, 626. O') nal Mg'ova; Zn Jaw' Tpdaqrysyai-mc.
if ges; ire? rit Andt-pin; eis' 'rnv Xugctamiv OZ- 3 'Ey Je ered-'air Two-again' aim; 'He mi
gt'lau, mild To? ux-7 mJ-'ah pctzg' 'is &a- Mars e's'lni Puyaa pZy rim) 11? nomrimyaye'm.
Mz'r'lm'. Strab. ubi upra.
' Iliad. G'. V 863. Tai I'uyau'y rine Mpm, _
' F THlS
 18 A JoURNEYfrom SMYRNA

THIS cool and refrehing vale laed an hour, after which we

begin to decend the hill by a more eep and dangerous way, than
we before had mounted ; but nothing was more diagreable,
than o enible a change of air, which we now experienced, being
as it were at once tranlated out of the frigid into the torrid zone.
Such was the dierence betwixt the valley we had left, and the
outhern part of the hill we were now traveling. This heat being
added to the laborious and tedious circuits, withoutwhich the
decent was abolutely impoible, brought us at length by one of
the clock almo half dead to Birg/oee. Nor were we capable of
being refrehed, either with the remembrance of that pleaant
mountain, we had paed; or with the view of the Cay/lrian plain,
which we had then before us.

THE rich products of mount Tmolus ought not here to be

forgot', which nature has furnihed with that ore and variety of
plants, that it may deervedly be termed the pbyic garden of the
univere. The valley, which we mentioned, is enriched with a
vein of marble, clear and pellucid enough to contend with ala
baer. Nor is it to be neglected, that on the outhern decent
of the hill we traveled over a continued track of one, adorned
with bright and hining Particles reembling gold du; the oc
caion mo probably of .o many plendid epithets, which in an
tient poetry are beowed on the Pao'lus.

BIRGHizE is a fair and coniderable Turkih town, adorned with

.two very handom mogues; and pleaantly eated in the road
from Sardz's, at the oppoite foot of Tmolus. This makes it- pro
bable, it was the Hypaepae of the antients, that ituation exactly
anwering to the decription, which Ovid and Straoo have left us
of it =. We were here received into a public lame, where we en
joyed an hearty and entire repoe; tho weetened rather by the
fatigue- of the foregoing day, than any entertainment or accom
modation of the place.

' 'Tortexelm 161- Za'eclmv 6 TPGMC, enow.
Fear. Strabo, Lib. xiii. pag. 625.
2. Ovid.Met. Lib. XlJ", 150. Rz'get ar-
duus alto
Tmolu: in acenu; clivogue extenu utroque
Sardious him, illino par-visnitur Hypaepir.
ctT-'ram'a Jiwa'iu; s's'l xuilacai'vuo'iv aim) jn?
Tptu'tx eig- ed 11? Km'is'ga wegJay. Llb.
xiii. pag. 627.
.
-_ APRIL
 to EPHESUS and back again. 19

APRIL xxix.
WE continued our journey by our a clock this morning thro the
Cajricm plain or Tyria, and had the atisaction o ording that
celebrated river about three hours from our cona'ck. Not ar
from hence we ound a one bridge o three coniderable arches,
built directly along the bank of the river; and therefore now erv
ing to no other purpoe, but only to witnes that the ream had
changed its Chanel. Our way lay from hence near the coure
of the Caz'er, thro a ertile and well cultivated champain ; a
place inexpreibly delicious, and which can be equalled by no
thing, but the weetnes of that immortal vere :
'Aa'cp e'v Asmoiiw Kaiis'gta aipi e'eieggoc. Iliad. B'. w 461.

Or thoe of Virgil.
Pelagi volucres,
Dulctibus et rimamur
in agm's quae Aaprata
circum
Cdyri. Georg. i. 384.

it is inhabited by Frequent villages, and encloed on both ides

with two high and nowy mountains, namely Tmalus on the
right hand, and on the let what Stmbo calls Meaoyezo'mg', or the
Midland hills. -

SooN ater eleven a clock we arrived at Tyriaz and cona'cked in

an old, dirty, ruinous kane ; having by this time learnt, that the
weary and thiry traveler mu repine at no reception, which he
meets with in Turkey. Tyria yeilds a pleaant propect, as we
ride into the city, gently acending from the adjacent plain.
The buildings are curiouy intermixt with trees and gardens,
which extend the circuit of the place; tho the number of its
houes eems inferior to that of Smyrna. We counted about our
teen moques, one of which we oberved to be royal, that is, ad-"
orned with adouble minaree. Having entered the town we found
the reets negligently kept, and meanly built; but at the ame time
populous enough, not without the appearance of a coniderable
trade. It is to be wondered that o large a city, anding in the

' 'O piv yt TFBM; lnuvct: www'lw, not) p. 629. And a little after: TrF 32 KaGs-er
'tgiyeaoiv i'xe' Fe'lga'a', 6' aui-mT; &(Pogrfo'pevor an? mal-'ay pt'laEG m'rrav'li rife 'E Mscroymi-rn'lor,
1315- AuJ-'ors pigmv' 1; JZ mera'yauo; eig- 13 nal 11? Tin-'Am ruuxic e'en wed; Ea -ro\ KM
iv'lmeiymv pigo; Jm'la'm Pixgr Mvxa'iMr. L.xiii. Gravel' mJ/ov.
\

very
 20 A JOURNEY om SMYRNA
very heart of Aia, hould have no remains of antiquity '. There
are indeed two Greek churches in the place, where the poor ig
norant pries would peruade both themelves and us, that this
was the antient 772yatira; but we thought it not fit to rob them
of the atisfaction of this error, nor puzzle them with any accounts
of antient geography, or late experience, that evince the con
trary.

IT is pretended in ome journals, that two or three valuable

incriptions are to be found in thee churches, tho we were now
eye witnees of the contrary,- for there occur'd nothing in that,
which they call the Metropolitan church, but a defaced monu
ment, whereon no intelligible words were to be read, except
XPHZTE XAIPE. Over the entrance of the other there is a piece
of devotion, written in modern characters: but more remarkable,
in the body of the wall ands a large image of our Senior, ele
gantly carved in porphyry; tho it now appears rudely mangled,
and eems to have felt the fury of the old angry iconaclaae. In
the hand is portrayed an open book, incribed with this en
tence out of St. jobn's Gopel, viii. 12. 'E-yai sip! 78 pair' 75
mia'pa. This was an inance, which may perhaps appear to be
ingular, at lea it is contrary to the general practice, as well as
peruaion of the Greek church; for tho they have a uperitious
fondnes for religious pictures, yet they abhor all imagery in re'
lievo, and look upon it as inclining to heathenim and idolatry.

APRIL xxx.
BY ix this morning we et forward from Tyria in our way for
Epheus, and pang thro the extreme kirt of the city, we oberve
the incription o an antient one con, now converted by the
Turks to upply the ue of a ciern. It has been defaced towards
the upper parts of the che, and permitted us to read only thee
following words :

.......HZOPOZ -...-.....'<I>AABIAN.Q ......

.-.oOTAENI---o-E-....AI....META.....

KOMIZ . . . MA . . EN . . TO. . TOAMHZAZ TI TOIOT

TO TIZEI TO IEPQTATO. TAMELQ X. B. (I>. KHAON
' The modern name Z'yria well anwers mentions as a well inhabited city, notfar
to the antient 'rue-easy,- which Xempbon fromxmfsgu unifor- D: cxpedit. Cyri, L. i.
5 TAI
 er-rw
War-w

to E P H E s U s and back again. 21

TAIAE TH2 zoPoT IOTNIOE AAEEANAPOZ KAI noTA

MoN KAI KAHPONOMOl ATTQN zozrN TATTHZ EHI
FPA<I>HZ ANTIFPAOON ANETEOH. EIZ TO EN ECEZQ
APXEION

UPoN the borders of the road, about a mile from Tyria, there
ands a commodious fountain, and adjoining thereto a pleaant
country houe; where, as we aid to drink, an hopitable old Turk
. oered us the entertainment of the place. We were then obliged
to refue the favour, but not without a freh regret at the incon
.
veniency of our la night's lodging, when we might have eaily ..

paed on to this advantagous comick.

Wn hence travel ome hours in a narrow and almo deerted -. ._

vale, the Cayer ill flowing on our right hand; till about one
aclock we draw near to the extreme edge of the Alymdn, alarge _ ,_"._.-

_
mountain lying betwixt the city of Ep/oehs and the village of
Giamobay, and here ending in an abrupt precipice; on the top
of which ands an old cale now converted, as is aid, into a
college of derw'hs. Near this place the Gay/ler mingles with
a large and muddy lake, which mo probably was the Stagnum
Pegaaeum, mentioned by Pliny 1, as having communication with
this river. The Alymdn we take to be the Mom Gallcus of
the antientsz ; ince the Mimas' , for which ome have lately mi
taken it, is the highe part of Eryt/ore'a, or that Cape land, which
encloes the bay of Smyma.

WE now thought it more adviable not to reach Ep/oeu till

the cool of the morning, but to pas this evening at Kirtinge'cui,
a Chriian village, lying near two hours to the ea of the city.
In earch of this place our guide unfortunately led us to the left

' Lib. v. cap. 29. Epbous alluitur Cdy-
ro, in Cilbiam': jugi: orto, multoque omnes
deferente, et agnum Pegaaeum, quod Pby-
rites amm': wept/lit.
1 This is plain from Straoo, who having
nihed his account Of Epbeu, and pro-
ceeding from thence towards Smyma, ays,
El-u' rd 1' aMn'a-m gets', i, n' KoAa<Paiv, m.
Lib. xiv. pag. 642.
sThis likewie appears from Strabo, who
tells us, that betwixt Erytbrae, or the we
ern part of that cape land, and the rb
mus, which joins the ame Cape land to the
continent, ands the mountain Mmas.
Mt'laftl 15' 'EguZgZ-Zv '2. 12' iimngn'pwx Mt'luag
e'qly, Sea; MAN', Ibid. pag. 645.
_
G of
 22. A JOURNEY from SMYRNA
of the above mentioned lake, up a eep craggy and almo im
paiible mountain; which when with great diculty we had con
quered, and decended in a way almo as tedious on the other
ide, we were acquainted by a traveler, that we were out of our
road either to Eplaeus or Kir/u'ngecui. This ruck a damp up
on our pirits, being now obliged to tread back o many unwel
, come eps in the heat of the day, depair of all preent refreh
ment, and fearful apprehenions of the micarriage of our mules.
lt was therefore voted neceary to hire the above mentioned tra
veler to conduct us to our village, who accordingly led us by a
long and tedious way almo under the cale of Ephen. But
from hence we had an hour and an half of pleaant and diverting
riding, betwixt two helving hills, watered at the bottom with a
purling brook; whil on each ide we were entertained with a.
hady cene of bays, myrtle, oleander, Spanih broom, the plane
tree, Judas tree, the rawberry tree, lilach tree, and amultitude
of other delightful greens. The frequent ops and misfortunes
of this day's journey had made it almo eight a clock, when we
arrived at Kirkinge'cui; where to our incredible atisaction we
ound our tents already pitched by our muliteers, who by an
unknown and unbea'ten path, over two or three mountains, had
at la fallen upon the village, more by good fortune than any
conduct of their own. .

MAY i. 1699.
THE village of Kirkingecmi is intirely Chriian, and uppoed
to be the mierable remains of the church of Epbem, The
wamicic, or prie, here pretended to hew us a venerable manu
cript of the Evangeli/Ir, wrote, as he aid, by Frm/Jonas, one of
the even deacom, mentioned in the Acts of 'be Apales *. Upon
inpection the character indeed appeared antient, and poibly
may be that of the ixth or eventh century; but the book itelf
is nothing ele but a Lectzionarium, or Copy of the Gopels, o Por
tioned into leons, according to the ritual of the Greek church,
that, begining at St. ja/m on Eaer day, the four Evange/i s are
read out by the return of the year. The ight of that manucript,
and of the mall parih church, was the buines of this morn
ing; after which we decended by the ame pleaant road, which

' Chap. vi. 71' 5. De Yoamzir autagmpbo, Epbg/irvato, vid. Pfai Diw, p, 154,
WC
 to E'P H E s U-S and bark? again. 23
we had traveled la night, and o arriving about ten a clock we
take poeion of the public bane at Ephcn r.

THE once glorious and renowned Ep/oein was eated in a fruit

ful vale, encompafed almo round with mountains *, at a mall;
diance from
Trogilzum the Caz'er,
; where, and aboutcharge
at the common five miles
of alleaward from
Iomia, the cape
Pam'o
mia, or common council; of Ionia, were formerly celebrated. This
vale ries advantagouly in the middle with two or three little
hills 3, on which the everal parts of the antient city lay extended.
The ame pot of ground is ill covered with the rich remains of
its former glory. Such are' the may walls, the portals, the arches,
the aqueducts, the marble ches, together with the dejected cor
nihes, hafts, and capitals of many lofty pillars. But the face
of the whole yeilds a melancholy and diagreable propect, being
overrun with an incredible quantity' of rank and luxuriant weeds,
which erve only to corrupt the air, and to conceal the curioities
of the place. This we found to be a diadvantagous circum
ance, and uch as doubled the labour of thisday in compang
the circuit of the city, and tracing the uncertain footeps of o
many valuable antiquities. But becaue thee cannot o intelli
gibly be reprefented in the order, in which we viewed them, we
hall methodically conider Epbezr, as lying in three diinct
ruins of a Turkih, Chriian, and Heathen city.

THE frehe ruins of this place appear to be Turkih, and uch

as witnes, that it has been in coniderable repute even under its
la barbarous conqueror; who alo has changed the name of
Ep/oem into that of Azaalzick. Here are to be een the remains
of five or ix moques, beides one which is ill ued for Maho
metan ervice. ln everal places there occur the walls of ruined
bagnios, tho they are incredibly increaed by the fabulous Turks,
and reported to have been here to the number of three hundred
and ixty ix. But that, which mo plainly evidences the late
riches of the place, are the many beautiful monuments, which
we viewed among their burying places, mo of them incribed
with fair Turkih characters. Tis obervable, that thee are cut
' 'Or EE 'E'Oiru in' Za'erhr del atte-'unl- north, Mymle to the outh, and Pactyg;
22, wnlaxa'm- gaiJm. Herodat. Lib. v. cap. 54. to the ea.
* The mountains, that encloe the city I Epbeur attollitur ment: Pierre, qllm'tur
and plain of Epbeur, are Gallg/iur to the Ciy/tro. Plin. Lib. V. cap. 29.

riing
 24. AJoURNEYm SMYRNA
riing from the plane of the one, and not indented within the
urface; which is the conant fahion of the Turks in all their
public monuments, in oppoition to the cuom of other times
and nations. lt is not; certain, whether the new cale, which
ands to the northward of the old citadel, be of Grecian or Tur
kih fabric; however it is ill kept in repair by the Turks, and
illed within the circuit of the walls with fty or ixty mall cot
tages, which with two or three cattering tenements are the only
habitations of the preent Ep/oehs.

FOR uch monuments of Chriianity, as are here viited by

travelers, we are beholden to the tradition of the neighbouring
Chriians; who hew the place of St. Mark's and St. Paul's
church, together with the anding walls of that dedicated to St.
John; which la apole, returning from his banihment in Pat
mos upon the death of Domitzian, lived, and died, and was inter
red at Ep/oe/m 1. The church of St. John, tho ill entire, is how
ever mierably transformed, and converted into the profane ue of
a Turkih moque. Like all' other moguer of the better fahion,
it has a quare and pacious yard on the north ide, with three
dierent
are entrances
reaonably well belonging
beautified,tobeing
it. Thoe to above
adorned the ca
theand we
portalsi
with curious Turkih culptures, and materials of rich polihed
marble. From this yard we enter the mogue by ive wooden
doors, all of which are carved to an exquiite perfection. With
in appear a plendid pulpit and hole, both coniing of wrought
marble, and the latter more particularly imbellihed with paint
ing and gilding of great art and variety. But what are mo
july admired and celebrated by all, who have traveled hither,
are the four pillars of granate marble, anding in a right line from
ea to we, and upporting two cupolas, that compoe the roo
They are o far diproportioned, that the lea is almo three,
and the bigge near four feet diameter; beides which the Pede
als of ome are quite covered with the oor, and all beides one,
Which is Of the Compound order, have lo their antient capitals.
All thee are circumances, which unanwerably demonrate,
that thee pillars are now tranported from their r places. And
' in truth, when the whole fabric is diligently compared with all
other Turkih mogues, and this 'conideration further added, that
' Concerning this church ee Procopii where it is aid to have been rebuilt by an
*A,{,,Ma, p. 12. and '135. lene-(4. pag. 45, order from Yuim'on.
z there
 to E P H E s U s and hack again. 23'
there appears no ign of an altar to the ea, or door to the we
end; it will be more than probable, that nothing but the outh
ern wall can be the remains of aChriian church. About a
mile to the outh we of this place, and in the mid of the an
tient city, ands an high wall, and adjoining thereto a ately
gatehoue, in which are thee words, mo curiouly engraven:
RENSI
ACCENSO
ET ASIAE .. .

Together with this imperfect incription are to be een the de

faced gure of a man on horeback, and another of a erpent
twied round a tree. This is by mo adjudged to be a Chriian
ruin; and indeed if we conider its beauty and grandeur, as it
can be no very modern building, o by reaon of its miplaced
carvings and inverted incriptions it cannot be very antient; but
may conveniently be refered to thoe times, in which Chriianity
began to ourih here. And after this there will be room to put
in another conjecture, and to gues from the atelines of the fa
bric, that it might be the place, where that famous general coun
cil of almo two hundred bihops condemned the he'rey of Ne
orius, in the year four hundred thirty one; tho his errors are'
ill living among the Indians and Chaldeans, two ects which are
numerous in the eaern parts of Aia 1. Thoe other Chriian'
monuments, which are commonly hewn at Epheas, are merely'
fabulous ; and erve only to cheat and abue the curioty of many'
travelers, who undergo no little pains and diculty in coming hi
ther. Such are the cave of the et/en leep-ers; themt, in which
St. John is aid to have baptized o many primitive Chriians;
and a quare watch tower, which ordinarily goes by the name of
St. Paul's prian. This la ands upon a mall hill, about a mile
nearer the ea, than was the temple of Diana; and is indeed worth
viiting by thoe, who have not o much uperition or credu
lity; for its ituation gives a Commanding propect over the ream
of the Gay/ler, which here eems to rival the Maeander, and plays
with many wanton windings in the adjoining plain.
THE chief heathen antiquities, that are to be een at Ephe/Zts,
are the remainder of the old citadel, and the foundation of the
1 See F. Simon's [It/faire critique de la creance et des rod/ame: des nation: a'u Le
ruant, Chap. 7, 8;
H temple
26 A JOURNEY om SMYRNA
temple ofDiana. The former of thee is an intire gate, with two
broken walls adjoining on each ide, which being ituated on a
convenient acent, towards the north ca of the antient city,
mo probably was a fort or citadel, that defended it on that
quarter. This gatehoue has the marks of coniderable antiquity,
tho it has been rebuilt from other more antient ruins; as is evident
from ome miplaced ones, and broken revered incriptions,
that occur in the work. Among thee are viewed, with great
fatisfaction three at marble ones, curiouly cut in bzo relic-va;
which tho of dierent deign, and unequal breadth, are placed
in a line to adorn the arch of the gate.

THE r of thee marbles (reckoning from the left hand as we

front the gate) has been fomewhat injured by time; but from
the portraiture of grapes and bakets, and four or five figures in
gay and youthful poures, it may be preumed to repreent a
Bacc/oamzl.
THE econd marble is a military piece, coniing of many in
tire figures, all cut in poures very bold and maerly, and uch
as undoubtedly are the work of ome noble hand. It deigns a
warlike hore urprized by an enemy, with his rider lying at his
feet; near which everal perons are carried captive by Roman
oldiers. The chieftain ands by, and is upplicated by a woman
in a large looe mantle, whoe interceon eems to intercept the
action. This has been by ome refered to the deruction of Troy,
and by others to a Chriian perecution; but with greater pro
bability it may be thought to repreent the event of ome Roman
victory.
THE third marble is a fepulchral monument, and repreents a
dead peron extended, from his knees upwards, on a funeral bed ;
the chief mourner itting, and ve other perons anding in a
melancholy poure, and lamenting over him; Thee likewie are
very lively gures, and cut with an inimitable perfection.

OF the temple ofDz'cma there are extant no coniderable ruins,

nor any thing that is lofty and beautiful enough to bepeak it'
the remains of that famous ructure. But in a marhy ground,
near the Lacus Selemzius ', betwixt the haven Panoirmu and the
' Plin. Lib. xxxvi. c. 14. In olo z'd duoSelemmter, that is, two Selenuianlakes.
pazarifecere. And Lib. v. o. 29. fl'em- * Strabo, Lib. xiv. pag. 639, et 642.
plum Diamze complexi e diveri: regionius ET-m nv'yem mN'xmv (which now is called
Scale
 to EPHEsUs 'and hack again. 27'
place of the antient city, there ahd two broken pieces of a may
wall, in which both the preent tradition, and accounts of antient
geographers, exactly conpire to prove them the mall reliques of
the temple. As they themelves coni of quare hewn one, o
they are urrounded with heaps of the ame materials, among
which occur ome lofty dejected pillars of beautiful and plendid
marble. Under 'the highe of thee ruinous walls there decends
an articial paage, which after two or three hort turnings pro
ceeds in a raight line thro many narrow rooms and alleys. This,
tho dark and noiome, is cuomarily viited by travelers, with
the aance of a candle and clue of thread; and is called, by
we know not what fancy, the Iahyrimh of Diana's temple. But
as we oberved the like under everal large ructures, ome at
Sardis, and others at this very place; o it is notorious, that this
is but the ordinary method of rengthening any great foundation,
and ecuring the building by ubterraneous arches. Returning
from this cavity the traveler has nothing ele in view, but venerable
heaps of rubbih, and uncertain traces of foundations; and mu
be forced to upply his Curioity with conidering, that this was
the place, where once ood and flourihed that renowned won
der of the world.

THE ir temple had been burnt on the ame night, in which

Alexander the Great was born; and this econd was then rebuild
ing, when that prince was reiding at Ephezs, and puruing his
conques in Aia Minor. He contributed umptuouly to the ex
pence, and afterwards propoed to reimbure the whole, if the
Epheians would conent to incribe his name upon the fabric 1.
But thoe citizens had an ambition equal to that of Alexander,
and therefore diverted his deires by a fulom compliment, and
the dedication of a famous picture ; which was Alexander him
elf armed with thunder, deigned by the inimitable Apelles, and
valued at twenty talents of gold 1. Pliny has likewie told us,
that this temple was adorned with an hundred and twenty even
pillars, each ixty feet high, thirty ix of which were carved, and
that by the celebrated hand of &open. The whole ructure was
four hundred and twenty ive feet in length, and two hundred
and twenty feet in breadth; and was founded in this watry ground,
Scale: Now) eT-ru Npcrlv hiveyQ- "may, ' Thee particulars, as collected out of
Exu- Itch- si; 'Eom'm 'Aefauooq- So' n' I'dArs. everal authors, are to be een in Supplem.
And again: Mild) niv &xCo't-iv 'I K'ict-S'QB i' Curt. Lib. ii. cap. 7.
MPH' iz-lv an w? weMiyxr aimxsoulo'w xuAei-rm 4 See thee and other particulars in Plin.
75 ZeMrxto'a, i, iOa-ZZ: ai'AM nih; mirfi. Lib. xxxvi. cap. 14.
3 out
 28 A JOURNEY from SMYRNA ;
. out of a vain hope to ecure i'ifby that means again time and
earthquakes.

THESE are the mo remarkable curioities either of Turkih,

Chriian, or Heathen antiquity, which in the pace of this after
noon we oberved at Epheas. Beides which we viewed many
intire pillars of an aqueduct, that paes over the plain from the
outhern hills ; as alo in two places the uncertain footeps of a
theatre; and without the new cale a full face ', with two er
pents (cut on a one) whoe heads meet over it, and their bodies
decend on each ide. This monument is uppoed to repreent
Diana, in the two characters ofLuna and Proerpine. But it is to be
wihed, that ome curious traveler might remain two or three days
at Ephen; during which time by removing the weeds, and clear
ing the confued ruins, he might pobly dicover many valuable
incriptions; as by the benet of a ladder he might take one or
two from the wall above mentioned under the Chriian ruins,
which to our great diatisfaction we found not legible from the
ground.

AMONG the few imperfect incriptions dicoverable in o hort

a ay, the name of P. VEDIVS ABOSCANTVS, with
mention of his wife and daughter, is once or twice repeated both
in Greek and Latin. And ATTIKON HPoAHN, or the name of
that ingenious Roman, whoe part is o entertaining in the Na
ctes Atticae of Gellius, is preerved on a fragment among the pil
lars of the aqueduct. In the ame place is frequent mention of
M. Antaninns, once particularly on occaion of an honour done
by the city to his daughter Fadilla.
(AAIAAAN OTFATEPA M. ATPHAIOT ANTQNEINOT
KAIZAPOZ ZEBAZTOT 2

THIS diich likewie on the cale gate is remarkable for the

word Ptelea, an old name of Epheas, which occurs in it.
TOTTON ON EIZOPAAZ TTIiION OPOION ANTONINOT

AQPOOEOE HTEAEH (DHKATO KPTHTOMENON

' This is the face of the moon aia'e Gaul-ny rain Kopya'dx a'JeAor-'Ju (OaJIMa if'
cincta comas. See fhei; Ram. Ant. Vol. v. b'vopa may) et'rdieypgo'a, etc.
p, 779. See likewie Grut. pag. MLxv1, n. 13.
_* Herodian, Lib. I. cap. 39. 'H Zwqt- and Fahrett. Inrrztioner, pag. 746.
And
 to E P H E s U s and back again. 29

An invaluable incription this, if the thing, to which it relates,

had been found with it; for it eems to imply the hiding of a
medal under the one, which bore the incription, that o, when
time hould deroy the building, the emperor's face might be
communicated to Poerity.

OUR way did not lead us by the aqueduct ix miles from the
city, in which is to be een that large Latin and Greek incription,
'printed in Sir George Wheler's Travels r. Nor did we find thoe
imperfect lines, which he took from a one half buried in the
ground '. But there is this perfect incription on a one near the
gate of the old citadel, with which we hall here nih our ac
count of Epbem.

H BOTAH ET'EIM'HEEN l'IOl'IAION AIAION AABIANON

AHOAAOAQPON AZHENAION <IAOAOFON TO AE MNH
MElON "KATEZKETAZEN TIOHAIOZ AIAIOZ CAABIANOZ
Z'QIAOZ O AAEA<O2 ATTOT ZH '

MAY ii.
- IT was a rainy and tempeuous morning, when, as we lay yeta
-eep in 'the public tane, a terrible clap of thunder dicharged it
'elf eemingly in the very room. The vehemence of the noie
'awakened us in 'great aonihment ; zand our eyes were no ooner
opened, but the whole place-eemed to he illed with-a red 'blaze
of fire. Each "peron 'was r olicitous for the afetyofhis com
panions, and afterwards ffor that of the hOrfeS, which were di
'perfed 'in their *ations about the door. Butvnding that wehad
'received no-detriment, eithervin our goods or perons, we bleed
'God for -our deliverance; and concluded-by-an infallible argument,
'that the diploionmu needs-be extremely near us, inthatthe
'light continued =for*ome time after the-ound.

WE mount by ix a clock, and now determine our return to

iSmyrmz ; to which there lies a raight 'tho dicult and-craggy
road,- over the IOPOfz-thCAW ; upon which account we- thought
1 Pag. 255. But the reader may ee it printed, of the econd part of Army. Aiat.
'more perfect in the ew heets, which were I See pag. 2 54.
I it
 30 A JouRNEYfrom SMYRNA

it preferable to take the way of the plains. This r led us over

the bridge of the Gay/fer, and then quickly after round the abrupt
precipice of the lymdn, and that old cale upon its edge,
which we had before o much in view, as we rode from Tyria.
From hence we pas thro a variety of low woods and paures,
which in themelves were pleaant and diverting ; tho the foun
tains being all dry about this quarter, we were much direed for
want of water. About four hours and a quarter from Ephens
we decry on our left hand, on the riing of the hill, the deplora
ble remainder of the cale of Metropolis; and at the foot thereof
uch apparent traces of foundations, with variety of hewn marble,
as permitted us no longer to doubt concerning the place of that
wae city. And it may be added, that computing our way by
hours, as Straho does by furlongs ', we did not greatly dier from
his account, who places it at little more than a third part of
the diance betwixt Ephein and S'myrna. Not far from hence
we begin to approach a mall, tho not hallow river, runing on
our right hand, which probably is the Phyrites of Pliny ' min
gling, as he decribes it, with the Cayer, not far from the Sta
gnnm Pegaaenm, or that lake, which we before oberved in our
way from Tyria to Ephens. Beyond this river we aw a large
extended paure, overpread with the ocks, herds, and tents
of Turcmen. They had here pitched their ation to the number of
fourteen hundred ; for as we aid to tae their milk, and to view
their habitations, they themelves gave us this account, reckon
ing about two hundred tents, and even perons more or les ap
pertaining to each. As the whole race of the Turks were nothing
ele but a numerous colony, that warmed from Scythia; o thee
Turcmen eem to be the peculiar decendants of the Nomades
ri'cythae, or &hephera' Scythians, and like them make it their em
ployment to breed and nurture cattle. To this end they never
aemble in towns, or betake themelves to houes; but flit from
place to place, as the eaon of the year directs, and eize with
out control the va neglected paures of this deert empire.
' 'EOiex prize' Spit-'eme o'Jo'; e'sw in' zu'- 1 Lib. V. cap. 29. Epheus alluitnr Ctij
&Flat-remaine- ei'xon gaZJm' ei; yaZe Meo'mmv ro multo: omnes deerente, et agnum
&na-lah' star-i si'xoe' num, of Aomol Ji tis' Zigvatv. Pegaaeum, quod Phyrite: amni: expel/it.
Strab. Lib. xiv. p. 632.

2 IN
 to EPHEsUs and hack again. 31

IN two hours and three quarters from Metropolis we arrive at

THanta, a mall but pleaant village, eated on a dry oil, and
enjoying a very healthful air ; where we propoed to condch this
evening. An agzi here hopitably accommodated us with the con
venience of his country houe, and likewie treated us with a
'mall collation after the Turkih fahion.

M AY iii.
BY even a clock we leave Trianta, croing a little river within
the limits of the village, and at an hour's diance another of the
ame bignes; one or both of which, as they unite in the bottom
of the plain, mu be the antient Halcim, that ran into the ea at
Colophan. We continue in a large and beaten road, leaving Gia
mo'hahy on our left hand, till having Sedz'cai now in view, we
cros over a watry bottom to horten our way thither. Here we
arrive about ten a clock, and op to refreh ourelves in the con
ul's country houe; where after a long diue of chairs, which
are not the fahion of the Turks, we once more had the pleaure
of itting down to diner.

HAVING mounted oon after three, the worhipful conul Raye,

with everal gentlemen of our nation, did us the honour tp meet
us about two miles diance from the village. On thee therefore
we waited home the remainder of our way, and 'o returned be
fore ix a clock in good health to Smyrna; having been much
obliged to Mr. Whalley for his care and conduct, as well as mu
tually to one another for that chearful and unanimous temper,
which weetened all our travels, and deceived the everal fatigues
_ of this laborious journey.

AN
A N A c C o U N T of 'a voyage fro'm Smyma to Concm
tinople, and a journey back from thence to Smjma,
in the year MDCCI.

MARCH xxvi.
i i. H I s dal' lfpdk my Piage for coldmtihop'le on board
i the King William "galley, captainNeh'emiah Winter com
mander, and accordingl'y went, 'on 'board at 'ix a clock 'in the
evening ; being favoured with "the 'company d ML Duner, Mr.
Turner, ianid Mr. 'Clot't'er'booke who after a hort 're'pa' r'e'tur'n'ed
a hore. 'On 'the T me Ihip 'im 'ar'ked for C'oha'ntinople the hint;
dgd 'of S'rctnyrno, Mr 'his Yoa, and a 'numerous family.

MA R c H xxvi'i.
We e't 'fail lthis 'morning with a r'gentlergale, which erved us
as'far as St. George? ifland, that 'lies before the 'harbour-of Focbzia
Food/did, that is Phomea; ibetwixt which and the fand head, 'oc*
ea'dued 'bythe dicharge of the river 'He-mous, we came to an
anchor at the approach 'of the evening.

M'A'RcH xxviii.
WE et fail early this morning with little or no wind, the
whole day continuing calm till towards'the evening; when the
gale began to grow freh, and favouring us all night advanced
us betwixt the main land of Aeolia and the iland of Mtylene,
or Lqhos, leaving the bay of Cuma, now called Sotalea, upon our
right hand.
' xM A R*ctC H 'X'xix.
TH 1 s morning with a contrary and very gentle gale we turn
betwixt the iland and the main, having a fair view of the har
bour,
 to CONSTANTINOPLE and JOURNEY haeh. 33
- bour, city, and cale of Mitylene l; the la of which eems to be
large and well walled, declining with a moderate decent on the
ide of a gentle hill. The ame coa of the iland is ored
with many pleaant and coniderable villages, well furnihed with
arable and paure ground, and large woods at a diance, aid to
abound with deer. This day we advanced no farther than the iles
of Miconiia, formerly r/rginnae =, ituated betwixt the conti
nent of Aeolia and the iand of Mitylene. Here therefore we
came to anchor about midday, lying oppoite to the mouth of
the [daenn or Adramyttian gulph, made by the two promontories
of Cana on one ide, and Lecton on the other, and enced towards
the continent of Troas (for o that whole region may be called)
with the nowy and apiring top of mount Me.

MARCH xxx.
THIS morning the wind pringing fair about four a clock, we
advance betwixt the iland of Mitylene and the main of AeoIia,
the narrowe hogoiz is made by cape Siguri, antiently Sigrinm,
on the iiland ide, and cape Baha', formerly Lecton, on that of
the main. Near midday we begin to turn this latter cape, and
thereby to gain the ight of [mhros and Tenedos; Lemnos not di
covering itelf till ome hours afterwards, as we advanced with
calm weather betwixt YTenedos and the Trojan hore; when the
low land of Lemnos, with the round and exalted top of flthos on
the other ide of it, gave us a delightful propect.

MARCH xxxi.
THlS day turning to windward, we advance by nine a clock
between the town of Tenedos and the Yiojan hore, the narrow
diance of about ix or even miles allowing us a diinct propect
of each. Tenea'os is a middle ized compact town, fortiied with
a cale, eated immediately on the hore, and enced toward the
land with a round hill; but expoed to the ea without the ad
vantage of any deep gulph, or commodious harbour. The whole
iland is green and level, and has the appearance, as well as re
putation, of a rich and fertile oil. The wind not favouring us
' Mitylene, made more remarkable for Saecula, quem veniem hopes Romanuradoret.
thoe words of the Lq/Z-ian: to Pompey, Lucan. Lib. viii. yf' 114.
then ed hither : 1 See Slmb. Lib. xiii. pag. 615.
- For, Magne, Zocum, quem runcta rewant K i from
34 AVoYAGEom SMYRNA
from hence, we proceed lowly the whole day with calm and
erene weather; and turning betwixt Tenerlos and the Phrygian
continent, after enjoying the delightful ight of the Trojan carn
pain on one ide, and of Tenedos, Imhror, and Samothracia on
the other, we anchored about ix in the evening under the cele
brated promontory of Szge'nm.

APRIL i.
EARLY in the morning we endeavour to make ail from Si
geium, but being taken in a dead calm, we were employed the
whole day in warping, that o paing the mouth of the Hellepont
we might lie (if occaion hould o require) heltered by the new
cale, and the point on which it ands. Having with great
fatigue made two or three warps, the wind at length favoured
us o far, as to advance us two leagues within the aid new cale of
Natolia, when the captain thought it better to anchor, than to
proceed in o narrow a chanel and o dark a night.

AT this place it will be mo proper to et down my thoughts

of Troy, and the whole Pojan hore, which for the pace of
three days I viewed at a convenient diance in calm and erene
weather from the poop of the hip, feeding my eyes and mind
with an eager and boundles Curioity. That, which in a large
ene was called of old by Straho, as at preent by the modern
Greeks, the campain of Troas, begins at the promontory of Lecton,
and then fronting the ile of Tenedos ends in adelicious green and
level country, as far as the rait of the Hellepont. But from
the begining of this rait we ail by the main of that, which is
properly to be called the campain of Troy. And becaue our
modern travelers give a wild and indiinct account of this fa
mous place, I hall endeavour to decribe the bounds, and itua
tion o it, in as clear and diinct terms as poible.
FROM Cape Szigdnm (whence antiently was computed the en-'
trance of the Helleponyou ail about ive miles, till you come
oppoite to the mouth o the Scamander; and from thence about
two miles farther to a mall prominence of land, by the antients
called Rhoeteam. Betwixt this Rhoeteium and Sigenm, the marine,
which bent in an even uninterrupted emicircle, aorded a com
modious
 to CONSTANTINOPLE and JOURNEY back; 35
modious ation for the Grecian fleet 1. But as Straoo well oberves,
that in his time the Scamcmder began to interrupt this ation, by
the and it dicharges on the hore; o it has ince gained more
coniderably on the fea, and formed that whole tongue of land,
on which is now built the new cale of Nato/ia. However in
the days of Priam the hore was undoubtedly more regular, as
well as more retired. And oppoite thereto in the adjoining con
tinent, at uch a diance as would admit the engagements, the
ights, the puruits, and the encampments of each army (as they
are all decribed by Homer) we are to conceive of the walls and
buildings of antient Troy. But ill we mu be cautious of point
ing out, and diinguihing the very place,- ince in the reign of
berius Caear we are aured by Strabo, that there remained not
the lea footep of antient Troy to fatisfy the Curioity of the
mo earching traveler *. So vain are the accounts of our mo
dern journalis, who pretend to have een the walls, the gates, or
other ruins of 'Thy ; that, which now remains, being nothing but
the rubbih of new Ilium, or of that city once attempted there by
Conaminc.

APRIL ii.
WE endeavour this morning to continue our voyage, but make
no coniderable progres; becaue the gentle gale, that favoured
us, could not prevail again the current of the Hellepom, which
perpetually flows with a full and rapid coure into the Aegean ea.
We therefore drive back, and content ourelves with coming to
an anchor in the ame place, from whence we weighed this morn
ing ; taking the opportunity of going to dine on the Aian hore.
After midday a freher wind advanced us within a mall diance
from the old cales; where it again deerted us, and obliged us
to drop anchor a econd time, to maintain the way we had gained
in oppoition to the violent ream of this Chanel.

1 Hence Virgil. Culir. 312. 1 Lib viii. p. 599. Ou'JZv Yzvo; raie-m
Omm's at in rineres Rboetei litori: ora, if: aigxm'ac wa'Arug.
Claus amuis, ammauperanle, dare-fur. And m like manner, Lucan, Lib. ix. X' 968.
See likewie Xcnopb. Hr. Graec. L. i. in Tota teguntur
prin. air i'voiye 'el 18 Ten-'mon And P. Mel. Pergama dumetir, et jam periere minae,
L. i.c. 18. Extraimcm unt Rboetca liltora.

APRIL
 36 A VOYAGE from SMYRNA *

APRIL iii.
WE continue anchored at the ame place, being all this day
entirely becalmed. And the day following, the calm having
changed into a contrary wind detained us ill at the ame anchor.
But however diagreeable this interruption in the coure of our
voyage might prove to ome others of the company, the leiure of
thoe two days was to me very grateful. Nor could I eeem it any
los of time, but rather an advantage, on account of the favour
able and unexpected opportunity it aorded me of viiting two o
famous cales, together with the villages adjoining to them '.
Going ahore therefore in the captain's pinnace to the town on
the Aian ide (formerly called Ahydos =, but by the Turks l'hi'
Natolia Hiar) with great pleaure I walked about the place, but
found no footeps of antiquity 3. The town is large, but mean;
yet famous for a curious ort of earthen ware nely glazed, which
is made here, and vended in great quantities. The cale is in
tire, of a quare gure, with baions projecting at each corner,
and with one ide flanks the water on a level hore; where are
to be een betwixt twenty and thirty va guns, uch as perhaps
are no where ele to be found, except in ome other parts of
Turkey. They are of bras, and have a bore at lea three quar
ters of a yard diameter; and are charged with one bullets of
the ame dimenions, which lie at hand pherically cut. The
charge of powder, asI was informed on the place by the hariit
aga' of Smyrna, is an hundred and ve ohen From Ahya'or I
croed over in a mall wherry to .S'eos *, that is, from Natolia to
Rnme/i Hiar, and in the way oberved the art of the boatman in
avoiding the force of the current, a Circumance mentioned by
Straho 5. This town ands on a precipice, decending eeply to
wards the ea hore; and is better built, tho les, than Ahydos.
It has a cale coniing of a triangular tower, encloed within
* Polyhius makes the breadth of the Hel xw'ozc 'IA/x, si, minor diet-i' ei; wdMw; 'cat-lot
[epont here to be no more than two fur o-xdialui &hide-toil, Swath-'se re E'WJEat'fo, ii, rei
longs, Lib. xvi.p. 735. xs; rlnig ei; rid-O air-inner' Z'mg oixej vuJ
2 ln ome modern prints Aidor. The o'eq'lv 'fret-i firiri tri' 'Ehrimrovlor wAExnv. Zoim.
mo memorable iege of this place by king Lib. ii. pag. 105. ed. Oxon.
Philip of Macedon is related by Li-vy, Lib. 4 Europamgue Aiae, Sq/z'ongue admo'vit
xxxi. cap. 17. Ahydo. Lucan. Lib. ii. il' 674.
5 vci,au pe'lanfd Tgwa'JO i, tils V? 5 Lib. xiii. pag. 59.
an

*.'z-F_ -t _*._-
 to CoNsTANTINoPLE and JOURNEY hack. 37
an high wall of this (3 figure, and that again with another tri
angular wall, all urrounded with a deep fos. In the ame level
with the water are mounted about thirty guns, of the ame or
rather bigger ize than thoe of Natolia Hiar; and by each lie
great heaps of ones, cut pherically to the dimenions of each
canon. In relation to this town of Seos, and the tower of Le
ana'er, once adjoining to the hore a little above the town, I re
membered that reque of'll/[n/aeas :
20 J'ai/mile xe'iOz weene-rare,
ACeci not Two? 'mia/ay '.

APRIL V.
THIS morning a freh wind favouring us at outh we we et
ail by ix a clock, and paing the forementioned cales, within
a league on the European hore, arrive at the town Maitos, an
tiently Maa'ytor *, eated on a low land within a mall reces of
the ea, and inhabited intirely by Greeks. The campain on each
ide is delightful to the traveler, as well as fertile to the inhabi
tants; being for the mo part of a level ituation, and in the
neighbourhood of the villages it poees, well cultivated and di
inguihed into paures. About three leagues from Maitos we
view on the ame hore two pleaant and well ituated villages,
by the name of the Lcr and Greater Galata. Thence about the
diance of two leagues we arrive betwixt Lamp/arm on the Aian,
and Callz'polis on the European hore; the former a mall town,
and the latter a city of no inconiderable extent; o that now
they have changed their fortune, and that character, which they
bore in the time of Straho 3. About twelve leagues from Callzpolzis
lies the iland Marmora, exceeding high ground, abounding with
rich Veins of durable and pretious marble; the fame of which
has given it the name of Marrnora, inead of the antient Pro
conehts. Adjoining to this are two leer iles, Katalzi and A/onia,
the latter eminent for the product of excellent wines. Betwixt
thee ilands and the beautiful Thracian hore, which here graces
the Propontis, we were advanced by a brik and favourable gale
x Her. et Leand. if 2 3, 24. I Lib. xiii. p. 589. 'H Aa'ptaxace'wlsa
* CaZZipo/is quoque ac Madytos dedita, et Aas'r'ly m'm e'z-lv iuAp-tuoc and a'zm'aoyoe. Et
caclla qaaedam ignobilia. Liv. Lib. xxxi mox: 'Ev 75 sip'p'ql wi; xtp'p'anzcto'x W'Wu'xvmvi's'l
cap. 16. T' KNAAIMAK.
L at
38 AVOYAGEOM SMYRNA
at the approach of the evening, and from thence are now con
tinuing our voyage, with the ame aupicious wind, and hopes,
if God permit, to arrive at Conantinople early by to morrow
morning.

APRIL vi,
BE FORE ten la evening the wind having changed to our di
advantage, we nd ourelves this morning but little advanced
from zi/jczrmora 5 however by the benet of turning to windward,
we proceeded this day about the diance of ten leagues. Every
other tack brought us near to the Thracian hore, and entertained
us with a fair view of the mo green and fertile campainI ever
yet beheld. By the ame means wc enjoyed the opportunity of ee
ing the famous port and city of Home/err, built behind a mall
eminence, which protends itelf into the ea, and forms an
haven on each ide of the city. Not far from hence ands on
the ame hore the fair town of Selymbria; near which the night
now overtakes us, and deprives us of that delicious profpect, which
the whole day aorded us, of the feilds of Thrace. It was on this
day, that captain Winter wanting his log line to be brought him
from a che in the great cabin, was not permitted by the bam't aga'
to end any peron down for it, by reaon of his bare'm being there.
At length he yeilded to let the captain's on go, a child of about
eight years of age.

APRIL vii.
EARLY this morning I betake myelf to the enjoyment of the
ame diverting profpect, whil the hip, by the benefit of tacking,
paes by Grtmde and Piccolo Ponze; and o betwixt nine and ten
of the clock comes to an anchor within a hort league of the Seven
Towers, a cale which forms the extreme point of Conmztz'nople.
Here we continued wind bound the remainder of this day, be
caue the narrownes of the Chanel, into which we were now to
enter; and the force of the current, which runs very rapidly out
of the Thracian Bopborus; did not uer us to advance again
the violent north wind.

APRrL
 to CONSTANTINOPLE and JOURNEY &are. 39

APRIL viii.
THIS morning about nine a clock the wind, which changed
nothing of its point, yet abated o much of its rength, that it
per-mitted us to turn from the Seven Tower: along the bending
walls of Con/iantinople, as far as the Serag/io point. But the Vio
lence of the current prohibiting us to make the harbour of Ga
lata, the hip was again obliged to drop anchor, and wait till he
could either make ail with a fair wind, or take the opportunity
of a calm to be towed in by hama'ls. We had not long ca
anchor, when my eeemed freind, Mr. Matthias Goodfellow, was
pleaed to viit me on board the hip; and carrying me ahore in
the boat, which brought him, r introduced me to his excellency,
the Lord Paget, and then kindly allotted me a pleaant and con
venient apartment in his houe at Galata.

APRIL xiii.
THIS dayI attended the funeral of Signior Demetra/Eo, 'chief
dragoman to the Englih ambaador, who tho by faith a Latin,
yet by birth was of the Greek nation. And accordingly in the way
of burying proper to this latter, I oberved the manner ofcarrying
the corps of the deceaed barefaced, clothed in his late uual ba
bit, and upported by four of his neare relations; who were
followed by women laves, hired to make a hideous pomp, by
tearing their hair, extorting forced and counterfeit tears, and re
peating in a continual loud and frightful lamentation, (I dzpn "a,
that is, O my maer/

APRIL xv.
I PAID a viit to Signior Romharts, a gentile and ingenious
merchant of the Dutch nation, at his houe in Cnmchenoee, a
village on the Thracian Bophornr. Here I oberved a opha' room
remarkably adorned after the riche Turkih fahion, the roof
formed into a cupola, and the gilding and painting of the whole
o plendidly curious, that it amounted at r 'to the um of four
thouand hnngiirs, or two thouand pounds erling.
AttIr-j
40 A VOYAGE from SMYRNA
APRIL xvii.
ctI TOOK the opportunity of paing over the chanel to Con
antz'nople, in company of Signior Wright, the Dutch minier of
this place, with whom I viited the mzctnt; the Grand Signior's
lions ; and the
tan c/ame't, andmoques of Sultan
the Valzideie. Solyma'n,
That Sytan
of Bajazet andBajazet, Sal
the 17alzio/e'e
are adorned only with two minarees, that of A'olyma'n with four,
and that of Achme't with ix. They all much reemble one ano
ther, both in the inward and outward igure. They r con
i of a patious court, enriched all round with fair and regular
cloiers formed by pillars, ome of whoe hzats are carved with
white marble, ome with erpentine one, and rome with por
phyry; but all the capitals are of the modern Turkih igure.
Next is the body of the mogne, covered outwardly with domes,
and upported inwardly with four may pillars, from the tops of
which ries a regular cupola, forming the roof of the whole moqne.
Whoever exactly compares the beauty and grandeur of thee eve
ral moqaes, will nd that of So/yrna'n more regular, and articial
in the outward frame; that of Achme't more magnicent in the
whole, and on the outide more beautiful in the work of the pil
lars ; that of the Fell/"ride, tho les in bulk and extent than the
other two, yet more curious in the inward Ornaments and work
manhip than either; and that of Brjazet, which is the olde,
inferior to the re both in bulk and beauty, except that ome
ca pillars, which form the cloiers of the court, coni of a
more polite, hining, and pretious one.

THE ame morning I Viited the antient cirque of this city, a

large oblong pace Hanked on three ides with the houes of the
city, and on the fourth with the walls of the 'no/one of Snltan
Achme't. Therein and three pillars, the r of quare one,
formerly covered
uppoed with gilded
to have been bras,
the goal at the
of the end of the
aa'zum. cirquc,
It now and
declines
much, having uered greatly by time, and openings in the eve
ral joints of the ones. The econd pillar is of wreathed bras,
not above twelve feet high, lately terminated at the top with i
gures of three erpents riing from the pillar, and with their necks
and heads forming a beautiful triangle. But this monument was
rudely broken from the top of the pillar by ome attendants of the
late Polih ambaador, whoe lodgings were appointed in this
3 cirquc,
 to CoNsTANTINoPLE and JOURNEY back. 41
cirque, oppoite to the aid pillar', The third pillar is a long
quare one, or obelik, decreaing gradually from its bais, till
it ends'almo in a point. The matter is granate, or Theban mar
ble; and each ide is engraven with birds, beas, and other hiero
glyphical figures 1. This had once lain upon the ground, and, as
we may conceive from the incriptions, a coniderable time; till
T/oeodzm erected it on a large and quare bais, adorned on each
ide with various images; and having xt on the top of this bais
four bras upporters, on thee he et the aforeaid hieroglyphical
Theban column. There is a Latin incription on one ide of the
bais, and a Greek one on the other, importing whatl here men
tion concerning the erection of the pillar. The Greek runs thus:
KIONA TETPAHAETPON AEI XOONI KEIMENON AXOOC
MOTNOC ANACTHCAI (DETAOCIOC BACIAETC
TOAMHCAC HPOKAOC 3 EHEKEKAETO KAI TOCOC ECTH
KIQN HEAIOIC EN TPIAKONTA ATQ

The Latin thus :

DIFFICILIS WONDAM DOMINIS PARERE SERENIS
IVSSVS ET EXTINCTIS PALMAM PORTARE TYRANN IS
OMNIA THEODOSIO CEDVNT SOBOLIWE PERENNI 4
TER DENIS SIC VICTVS EGO DOMITVSQZE DIEBVS s

The remaining vere, mentioned by Sir George Sandys, is now co

vered in the ground 6.

APRIL xxii.
TH Is day having r viited Mr. &lore-'ver (then ill of the plague,
of which he died two days after) in a mall boat of the countrey,
in company with Mr. Goodfellow and Mr. Evans, l made a tour
up the Thracian Boplooms. This Chanel we may conceive to be
gin from the point of Scutari on one ide, and that of Top-band
on the other; from whence in a winding gure, graced on each
fide with hraglios of the chief courtiers of this empire, and on
I Concerning thee monuments particu- and Smith, Conantinop. bren, profit. p. 1 17.
larly ee GyZ/iur, Conantinop. topogr. Lib. 3 ngo'xmp in Anthologia, Lib. iv. p. 488.
ii. r. 12, 13. 4 See Zoim. Lib. iv.p. 265.
1 Concerning the interpretation ofwhich, 5 See Cang. Conont. Cbrzian. Lib. ii.
together with an hiory of the Ram. obe- pag. 105. '
I'zs, ee Ammian. Man-ell. Lib. xvii. c. 4. 6 L. i. p. 34. of his Tfd'vlli.
M the
42 A VOYAGE -oin SMYRNA
the marine with almo continued villages, as alo two cales in
the narrowe part, it extends about eighteen or twenty miles, as
far as the antient rocky ifles of the Symplegaa'es, which eem to
open and hut, as one advances to them in the Bophorns '. The
large of them is ituated on the European hore, and till lately
bore an antient Corinthian pillar, to which a vulgar error has given
the name of Pompey's colamn. It was erected not on a regular bais
ofits own, but upon an antient heathen altar, that now only re
mains; the haft and capital of the pillar, which have lately fallen,
being yet viible in four pieces among the cliffs of the rock. On
the aforeaid remaining altar may be read this incription in large
Roman letters.
DlVO CAESARl AUGVSTO
L. CL. ANNlDlVS
L. F. CLAV. FRONTO *

RETURNING from this pillar we ept on the adjoining hore,

to ee the large and lofty lantern there erected for the direction of
mariners at the entrance of this dicult rait. About four
miles from hence, in returning thro the Chanel, we go afhore on
the European ide to viit a famous convent of Greek pries, by
the name of Manromolos, eated in the cli of an hill, and enjoy
ing a beautiful church, adorned with many rich pieces of religious
furniture; as books bound in covers of may ilver; an oiyfac tri-Can,
or 'acred curtain s, wrought both richly and artfully in ilk and
golden gures; and a et of painting not of the vulgar ort, but
regular and proportionable, the mo curious of which was done
in Mucovy. Thee fathers are exempted from their hardeh, on
account of a preent of excellent fair Cherries, once preented to
the Grand Signior. Over a fountain, that erves the convent
with water, they have this device, not- more proper for the place,
than ingenious for the contrivance, in making the ame words read
forwards or backwards:
N ITON ANOMHMATA MH MONAN OTI'IN t

Iwas this day a witnes of the rong current owing towards the
Propontis from the Enxine ea, as I had before oberved it to

' Concerning thee ee Pliny, Lib. iv.
cap. '3.
1 See Gruter, pag. ccxxviii, andWbeler,
pag. 207.
3 See Du Frene, Gloar. Graec. Tah. i.
oper. praemz _
tThis is part of an eprgram, Et; Any-(sue
Ta'CPo', Antholog. Lib. Vl. p. 563.
force
 to CONSTANTINOPLE and JOURNEY hack. 43
force into the Mea'iterranean from the ocean. Both which are
taken notice of by Lucan :
agaagne fretnm torrenr Maeotidos egerit nndas
Pontus, et Hercaleis anfertur gloria metir,
Oceannmque negat olas admittere Gades '.

APRIL xxvi.
Tars day I croed the water from Galata to viit the antient
Chalcea'on,
Euphemtia * where
; and aI little
aw diant
the poor Greek
from church village,
the preent dedicated
the to St.
place
where was held the fourth general council. Returning we row
under the hore, to ee the Grand Signior's beautiful hraglto near
Scutarti. When Chalcea'on was an eminent city, which is now re
duced to a lender village; Scatari, which by a contrary event is
at preent a fair and patious city, was a poor and ignoble village,
tho it then had the name of Chrybpolis, as we ind by Zo/imm 3.

A P R I L xxviii.
I RETIRED to Belgrade, a mall Greek village, eated about
twelve miles from Conantinople, and about five from the Eaxz'ne
ea ; where the Englih ambaador has a countrey eat. It is plea
antly ituated among large woods of oak, beech, Chenut, and
other trees, and enjoys an healthy air and water. Here I took the
opportunity of riding to viit the famous aqueducts of Conantzi
nople, diant from this village about ix miles, which were built
by Valentinian the ir 4, accnrante Clearcho praefecto, as Cao
cloras ays 5; and afterwards repaired by Solyma'n the Magmicent,
who exempted twelve adjacent Greek villages from the cuomary
tribute of this empire, for the care he enjoined them of keeping
thee aqueducts in repair. The mo remarkable of them are three
great and lofty fabries, built over o many valleys betwixt the ad
joining hills, of which the longe has many but les arches, and
may poibly be the entire work of Solyma'n. The other two have
the appearance of a more antient and regular architecture, con
' Lihiii. if. 277. Concerning the cur- L. v. p. 3r4, and E-vagr. L. ii. c. 3.
rent of the Maeoti: ee Polybiur, Lib. iv. 3 Lib. ii. pag. 106.
p. '3o7 3 and of that at Gader, Mr. Halley's * For Valentinian's building thee aque
Dicowre in Le Clerc'r Phxc. L. ii. c. 8. ducts ee Socrates by Valeiur, and Mceph.
1 Concerning the antientituation of Cbal- Conantin. Hz. nal. ii. p. 418. '
riden ee Zq\im.L.ii.p. 1oo,andofthis church, f In his Chronicon.
ct iing
44 'A VOYAGE from SMYRNA
iing of two rows of arches one over the other ;- and thoe of the
econd row encloed by pillars cut thro the middle, o as to ren
der the fabric both paable like a bridge, and ueful for the con
veyance of water. The more coniderable of thee two conis
only of four large arches, each twenty yards long, and omething
above twenty high, upported by octangular pillars of about fty
ix yards in Circumference towards the bottom. The village of
Belgrar/e is likewie honoured with two royal h'ohs, the one of the
Grand Aignior, the other of the alia'e'e ; each ituated in two de
lightful recees of the neighbouring wood, and adorned with na
tural avenues thro lofty groves of beech, oak, and Chenut. A:
each of thee kirhs the waters of the public aqueduct are gathered
into fair and ample cierns of hewn one, from whence they pas
in arched Chanels under ground to the royal city.

MAY vii.
AFTER a pleaant retirement of ten days at Belgraa'e l returned
to my lodgings at Galata, to take the opportunity of eeing the
remaining curioities of Conantinople.

M A Y viii.
I WALKED almo thro the extent of the whole city to viit the
famous pillar of Arcadius, a lofty and apiring fabric, of the Do
ric order, built with a wonderful regularity and exactnes of archi
tecture, bearing on the bais, and on the whole (haft from top to
bottom, various warlike gures of men in arms, chariots, galleys,
and other Ornaments, which in a piral manner encircle the whole
pillar; every gure being o well proportioned to the diance,
from whence it is een, that thoe at the top, the middle, and the
bottom, appear to the eye exactly of the ame ize. Returning
from this pillar I paed by the old pillar of Adratna'ar, defaced
by the everal conagrations of the city, and bound in everal
places with rings of iron by the care and charge of the emperor
Manual, as is witneed by this incription on the top.
TO EION EPFON ENOAAE <APEN XPONQ
KAINOI MANOTHA ETCEBHC ATTOK-PATQP

From this pillar Iwas derrous of paing thro ztmeidan, that is

the bippodromas, or cirgae above mentioned, to re'view the mogne
2 . _ of
 to CONSTANTINOPLE andct JoURNEY &at. 43

of Snltan Achme't, and make a ricter Obervation on the three'

pillars there erected. Here Iwas informed, that the bras erpen
tine pillar was erected by the emperor Leo, as a charm again the'
noiom number of erpents, which in his time infeed the city;
the ame peron uperitiouy arming, that ince the late deface
ment of this pillar, by the breaking of the erpents heads, the
city was again moleed by innumerable noxious erpents. At the
foot of the old pillar, formerly covered with bras, I read the re
mains of that incription once taken by Sir George Sanelyr, but
ince his time part of it buried with earth, and part broken away ,-'_
which is very erroneouly printed in his Ti'avels '. On the bais of
the hieroglyphical pillar I oberved the carved repreentation of
the pillar it elf, together with the gures of men labouring to
erect it.

M A Y iXs

BY the intere of a Greek, who erves the hoangz' hahd as his'

urgeon, I was admitted in company of Mr. John Philips, an'
eminent merchant, into the great eraglio of Conantinople, where'
we paed thro two courts, that form the entry of the palace;
the r of which has a mall arenal, furnihed with arms and
ammunition ; the econd has piazzas on two ides, in which the
janiaries are wont to eat, and opens at the upper end into the
diwin. From thee two courts we were permitted to walk round
the full extent of the garden, .on each ide of the palace. They
are rude and wild places, affording nothing that is entertaining,
but that wherewith nature has furnihed them, which is an admi
rable ituation riing into convenient acents, and capable of innite'
improvement, if it were happily in the poeon of a Chriian
prince. The whole plat of ground, which they call the gardens
of the eraglio, is covered with Cypres and other trees, thro which
are cut hady walks, where hiohs are een of various orts; the
mo eminent and remarkable of which is that called the Blew hioh,
fronting the town of Scntari. This and the other called the AZaI
hio , fronting the city of Galata, are rich and plendid pleaure
houes, covered with a gilded cupola, and adorned in their eve
ral walls with Indian tilcs, and ately chimneypieces of olid
bras. Paing thro the extent of the eraglio towards the extreme
point, that looks up_ theThracian Bophorns, you oberve a Corin
, .
.' Book' i. pag. 34.
thian
 46 AVoYAoEfrom SMYRNA
thian pillar coniing of white marble, of which the ignorant "
Turks re ort a fabulous and ridiculous account* but its true ori
I l p' 0 ' O ' ,

8 mal ls dicovered bY this 1ncr1 P tion on one P lane of the bais:

FORTVNAE REDVCI OB
DEVICTOS GOTHOS a
On the oppoite plane is likewie this religious device:
IClXC
NllKA
Near'this pillar we were admitted thro a gate, which opens into
a green court, and that again into a garden kept in omewhat a
regular order.
apartment of theFrom hence
Grand we acend
signtior, by two
where are a few
richeps
htq/hs,into an
a ih
pond, a paved walk, and an open gallery. Here we were hewn
the lodgings, where the unhappy princes of the empire are de
tained prioners, as alo the dark chambers of the zichoglans, and
the door that leads into the hare'm of the Grand Szignior. There
alo are hewn two or three inances of the rength and the acti
vity of Sultan Mora't; as a ponderous round one, which with one
nger he is aid to have lifted by a ring ixt therein; likewie ve
thick and ubantial heilds, which being placed upon one another
were peirced thro by a ca of his jtirid ill icking in them; alo
everal ilver pellets thrown by him with that violence, as to
ick in an iron door. The above mentioned gallery is rich and
plendid, adorned with various gilding of flower work, and up
ported with beautiful erpentine pillars. In the ides of one of
the hiq/hs are three Orbicular ones of ne prophyry, the middle
mo of which is curiouy polihed, and thereby erves to reect
the propect of the eraglio and adjoining city, in the nature of a
looking glas. At the further end of the garden of the hraglio are
the intire walls of an antient Chriian church, and near to that the
aviary of the Grand Signior, where I oberved the hens of Grand
Cairo, having blue gills and feathers curiouly coloured with grey
circles, and in the center of each a pot of black.
THIS day I retired again to Belgrade, for the advantage of its
healthy air and water, and the entertainment of its hady itua
tion. Hence on the twelfth inant I made a tour towards Do

r In relation to this incription the medal vere of which are the words nevrcrrs
of Belizrin: may be oberved, on the re- con-us.
ma'zderei
 to CONS'TANTINOPLE and' JOURNEY back. 47
muzderei, and the hore of the Black Sea, on which we rode for ome'
pace of ground, and returned by that called Ovid's Dwer, thro
a fertile tract of ground, curiouly varied with corn, gras, and
hady woods.

MAY xx.
I RETURNED again to my lodgings at Galata, and the next
day crofed the water in company with Mr. Goodfellow to Con
antinople, where after a viit to the moque of Solyma'n the Mag
mcent, we obtained leave to acend one of the minarees, from
which the muezins call the Turks to their nama'z, being about an
hundred and twenty feet high. Here we took a delightful pro
pect of the whole ituation and extent of Stamnol, as likewie of
Galata, Pera, and Scnta'ri, with theneighbouring eas, canals,
and land that encloes them. But the peculiar happines of this
day was the employment of 'about two hours, which we leiurely
pent in viewing the upendous church of Sap/na *, now profaned
by its converion intoa Turkih moqne. It chiey merits the re
gard of any curious traveler for the reliques of its rich moaic
work; the variety of pretious marble *, which adorns it, coni,
ing of erpentine, alabaer, and porphyry; and the architecture
of its large and flat tho ublime cupola 3, in which are ill the
en'tire gures of C/oril and the twelve poler, and in the win
dows many incriptions in moaic work from the New Teamem.

M A Y xxiii.
I RETURNED again to Belgrade, as well for the opportunity of
conrming my health, as for continuing my repects to his Excel
lency the Lord Paget.

JUNE vi.
I WAITED on his Excellency from Belgrade to Pera, going'
r to Boiukdere and thence down the Bopboras by boat.
' See Euebius's Life of Can/routine. 3 The particulars of each are decribed in
1 An account of the like rich marble the exact and faithful account of Grezot,
work may be een in Stat. SyI-v. Lib. i. r. 5. which may be compared with that ot Pra
where he decribes the bath of Claudius cons.
Etrucus.

JUNB
 'r rw - ".i'r' ' '
In. . J : '

48 A V'OYAGE from SMYRNA

JUNE x.
I WAITED on his Excellency, as well to wih him a good jour
ney, as to receive his commands for Smyrna.

JUN E xiii.
I R-ETURNED to the houe of my eeemed freind, Mr. Good
fellow, in Galata; and the day following took leave of the Dutch
ambaador and his family.

J U NE xvi.
I MADE a viit by boat to the Set/en Towers, now a prion for
perons of quality, ince by the fate of war it has fallen into the
hands of the Turks, but antiently the Porta Janicnla of Con/lanti
nople. The beautiful remains of this gate are ill admirable, tho
by the Turks uered to be almo concealed by a dead wall, and
the hade of the neighbouring trees. It is a regular and carved
arch of white marble, upported by two beautiful pillars, adorned
in the pilaers with a culpture repreenting everal military af
fairs, and anked on each ide the pillars with twelve tablets of
carved work extremely well performed, which contain everal
poetical ories. Among the re is Hercules and the Nerneaean
lion, the bea prodigious and terrible, but confeing its con
queror by an agreable poure; Luna and Endymion; a winged
Pegais, managed by ome of the Mnhs; a pourtraiture of
the known combat of whirlbats ; and an imperial gure, crown
ed by two celeial-machines.

RETURNING by boat along the walls of the city, I oberved its

crooked gure and poure to the ea; and noted alo the everal
quare towers variouly interpered at unequal diances, each
bearing an incription much to the ame purport, as may be een
by the following copy, which I took of them in the boat.

ON a tower near the Porta _7anicnla:

n'rPFoz BACIAEIOT KAI KONCTANTINOT HICTQN EN

i ATToKPAToPnN
OR.
 to CoNsTANTrNoPLE and JOURNEY am. 49
ON a tower in that part of the wall, which includes the h
raglio :
IITPFOC (*)EO<I>IAO"I'I MEPAAOT EN KTPIQ BACIAEQC
KAI ATTOKPATOPOC.
Round the ame eraglio :
HTPFOC OEOCIAOT EN XPICTO. ATTOKPATOPOC.

About 'the ame place:

I'ITPFOC EO<I>IAOT KAI MIXAHA mcToN EN o
ATToKPAToPoN.
J U N E xvii.
ABouT midday I aw the ceremonies of the der-ele convent of
the order called Men/ear' at Pera, coniing of their namdz, ome
what longer than is ordinary at other times and places. After
which followed a ermon, that is, a gallimaufry of dreams and
nonene, pronounced by the prior of the convent, as he at cros
leg'd on the eat of a two elbowed wooden chair. This was uc
ceeded by their muic in a gallery over the door; during which
about fourteen der-offer led up a religious dance in the area of their
theatre (for uch is the gure and contrivance of it) in which they
turn round almo in the ame place with incredible wiftnes,
without either wearines or giddines, for the pace of half an
hour. By this exercie their brain is o habitually fortied again
dizzines, that one of them was able to and upon the half moon
of a minaree
alute belongingattohisthe
the GrandSzignior Solymanja',
palace andatfrom
of Cor/hent', thence
the ame to
time
ring o a piol, and drinking a dih of coee.
ABOUT five this evening I took leave of Mr. Goodfellow, and
embarked upon a boat manned with even hands, which I had
hired for ten dollars to tranport my elf, my hore, and two er
vants from Galata to Montagnia, being the pace of two leagues.
When haVing a fail' Wind, which by degrees increaed, and ex
poed me to the fatigue of a naueous ea ieknes, after midnight
I entered the tWO Capes, which form the Sinus Czianar. In this
bay is that famous fountain mentioned by Virgil _
Hylan naatae quo fonte reliffnm
Clamaent ; cum littm, Hy/a, Hy/a, omm- omret ._
I Eclog. vi. 'ver 43.
' O JUNa
50 A VoYAoF. from SMYRNA

*JU N E xviii.
BY ix this morning I landed afe at Montagnia, a mall Tur
kih town, which eems to have been the zpamea of the antients ;
Czius, or Praa ad Argant/ooninm, being now a little village, that
lies farther towards the utmo corner of the bay. HereI hire a
guide and hore to carry my elf, ervants, and baggage to Prn la,
antiently Prna aa' OZympam, where by God's bleing I arrive
afely about midday; and taking up my lodgings in the great
ilk tane, I there determine to repoe till to morrow morning.

PRUSIA is a large and fair city, ituate at the foot of Olympus

Myenns, _a mountain of exceeding hight, and covered with per
petual now; which from its bowels furnihes the adjacent city
with many large and plentiful fountains, and by the ame means
gives nourihment to the beautiful and ourihing trees, which in
termix themelves with the houes of the place. Thee are chiey
mulberries, which maintain the indurious worm, that produces
the white and lovely ilk of Pruia; which I here aw pun from
caldrons of hot water, the everal cods yeilding at once three
threads upon a wheel, turned by the peron who tends the cal
dron. Beides the everal cold reams iuing from Olympus,
there ows from the ame origin a plentiful ulphureous Chanel,
which is collected into four hot natural baths much frequented,
and with marvelous fucces, as is here generally beleived. The
everal fabrics of the baths are very ately, of which l hall de
cribe that, which is called the new one, for a pecimen of the re.
lt conis r of a large oblong room paved with marble, encloed
all round with free one, and covered at the top with three noble
cupolas leaded on the outide. Round the inward walls of the
room are oplaa'r, about a yard high, and two broad, ucient
for the undremg of three hundred men. In the middle is a round
one ciern, overflowing with cold water, which continually
wahes the pavement, and erves for other ues of the bagnio.
From this room you enter into a econd moderately warm, having
on the ides oblong troughs of hot water, and in the middle a
fountain of cold; the walls, roof, and pavement being all of
white polihed marble. From hence you are led by the atten
dants of the bagnio into a third apartment of an Orbicular gure,
paved, roofed, and walled with richer marble, that is, of more
curious
 to CONSTANTINOPLE and JOURNEY hack. 51
curious veins and various colours. The pavement hereof is unk
into a round ciern about ix yards diameter, which is conantly
full of hot water to the depth of about ix feet, and urrounded
with a one bench for the cae of thoe, who care not to wim,
or walk about the ciern. As the water conantly runs from
thence by paages at the bottom of the ciern, o is it continu
ally upplied by three large chanels, which from as many ides of
the room yeild a plentiful ream of water, almo calding at
the r touch.

BESIDES thee baths there is not much remarkable in Pruia,

except what may be collected from the hiory of the place; as
that it has the ruins of a cale, built by one of the Comneni, as
appears from the following incription:
ANHFEPoH OTTOC o n'rPFoc
I'IAPA TOT ETCEBECTATOT HMoN BACIAEQC
OEOAOPOT KOMNHNOT TOT AAC'KAPI
. .. MHNI oKToBPIn
It was made the r capital of the' Turkih empire by Oman, or
Otto'nan, the founder of that monarchy. And it has the monu
ment not only of the aid Ottoman, but likewie of his immediate
ucceors, Orchain, Solyma'n, Amura't, Bagazet, and Mahomet the
r.

JUNE xxi.
THIS morning about eleven a clock I et forward on my jour
ney, in company of a cara'va'n bound to everal parts on the road
to Smyrna. With thee I now travel three hours, and then co
neich with them upon a convenient plat of gras, on the plains of
Prua. ln the midway we cros the river Hippius runing thro
thee plains into the Sinus Cianus.

Ju N E xxii.
Wa travel this day to the left of the Palus Artynia, 'which be
ing fed from mount Olympus, extends itelf the length of many
miles, and hews everal little iands, in which are one or two
compact Greek towns. At length the lake vents itelf by the
chanel of the river Rhyndaeus, at which we arrive about ix a
clock this evening, and paing it at a long wooden bridge, nea-r
3 the
52. A VOYAGE from SMYRNA
the ruins of another built of one, we take up our oona'ch on the
oppoite bank, in a village now called Uluhat, but antiently Apol
lont'a ad Rhyndacnm.

J U N E xxiii,
Wa ride eight hours, and then bait on the banks of a little
river, which runs towards thoe called the Adraian plains. Three
hours farther, at the village of Suhgierlich we cros the fair large
and andy chanel of the Aepas, and proceeding ill two hours
more we at length cona'ck upon the hills.

JUNE xxiv.
WE this day pas a reet called the Irongate, and in even hours
arrive at the fair capacious hane of Mandaho'ra, where are even
rude prophyry pillars thought to be of Trojan original. Here
we repoe till towards evening, and then once more croing the
ehpas, which riing in Ida continues its coure under the houes
of this plat
gray village,
aboutweanproceed
hour to about
the leftanofhour, and then lodge in a
Balzihiar.

JUNE xxv.
RISING now a little after midnight we proceed even hours,
and then reing in the woods till three in the afternoon, we
pas by the uual cona'ch of Kuragelcht'ch, and one hour and an
half from thence at length lodge in a pleaant green pot of ground
on the mountain Temnns.

JUNE xxvi.
BY four a clock we proceed, and having paed the Temnar,
by even a clock we cros the chanel of the Caicas, which here is
but mall, not being far diant from its fountain head. But an
hour farther at Gelemha we again oberve it now much enlarged,
and runing by the tane and houes of that place, from whence it
bends its coure on the left hand to Pergamas. At this hane we
repoe half an hour, and afterwards in the plains two or three
hours more; but about midday we again remount, and in four
hours cros the Hyllas, at a rait betwixt two hills; in an hour
after which, in the mid of a fruitful and delicious plain, we ar
rive at Thyatira.
JUNB

__
 to CONSTANTINOPLE and JOURNEY back again. 53

J U N E xxvii.
I REPOSE this day at 77ayatira, which by the Turks is now
called Ai/az'ar. My deign in aying here was to oberve the
cattered remains of architecture, which are to be een in many
places, together with ome incriptions. The mo remarkable o
thee is one publihed, but erroneouly, by Sir George W/aeier ' ;
whichI copied from a one con, on which it is cut.

<ABIOZ ZQZIMOZ KATAZKETAZAZ ZOPON EOETO EHI TO

IIOT KAOAPOT ONTOZ HPO THE I'IOAEQZ I'IPOZ TQI ZAM
BAOEIQI 3 EN TQI XAAAAIOT HEPIBOAQI IIAPA THN AH
MOZIAN OAON EATTQI E< (II 3 TEOH KAI THI FATKT
TATHI ATTOT I'TNAIKI ATPHAIAI HONTIANHl MHAE
NOE EXONTOE ETEPOT EEOTZIAN (DEINAI TINA EIZ
THN ZOPON TATTHN 02 AE AN TOAMHZH H HOIHZH
HAPA TATTA AQZEI MEN ElZ THN IIOAIN OTATEI
PHNON APFTPIOT AHNAPIA XEIAIA I'IENTAKOZIA EIZ
AE TO IEPQTATON TAMEION AHNAPIA AIZXIAIA I'IEN
TAKOZIA FEINOMENOZ THETOTNOZ EEQOEN TQI
THE TTMBQPTXIAZ NOMOI TATTHZ THE EI'IIFPAOHX
EFPAQH AIAA ATQ QN TO ETEPON ETEOH EIE TO AP
XEION EFENETO EN THI AAMI'IPOTATHI (DTATElPH
NQN HOAEI ANOTIIATQI KATIAAIQI ZEBHPOI MHNOZ
ATAHNAIOT 4 TPIZ KAI AEKATHI TI'IO MHNOCIAON
IOTAIANOT AHMOZION 5

About ve in the evening] begin to move, having now let the

carava'n, and purpoing to travel all night towards Magmm Be
ore it is dark I again ord the Hyl/us, and after that proceed
over thoe fair plains, in which Scipio Aiaticus r won the
empire of Aia for the Romans by the defeat of king Antiochus 6, as
we nd it decribed by Livy.

' Pag. 2 32 of his Trace/r. 5 In this incription the I is always ad

a ldem foran ac magnum, apud 70epb.
dntiq. Yud. edit. Oxon. p. 722. I. ult.
3 Et a. vid.Grut. pag. nccxux. num. 4..
4 Aud'uuai'aoc, groped mvir Man-him,
o' 'IMw'uOn Suidar.
ded to the la vowel of the dative ingular,
which in mall letters is now uually placed
under it.
' Lib. Xxxvii.
P AN
54 AVoYAGE from SMYRNA.

J U N E xxviii.
BY nine a clock this morning I reach Magneia, where I repoe
myelf the remaining part of the day with the following night.
And then mounting by ve the next morning, after a refreh
ment of about three hours I arrive at Smyrna afe, and in good
health, by three a clock in the afternoon.

M6rgo rc' Osc' 75 Bring/Side one.

AN A c c o U N T of a journey from Smyrna to Adria
nople, at the end of the year MDccI, and begining
of MDCCIl. *

FEBRUARY x. A. D. 1701.
HIS day about nine a clock, being a very rainy morning,
l began my departure for Adrianople together with Mr. Fa
rington; being favoured with the company of Conul Raye, Sig
nior Hochepied, and nine or ten of our nation, as far as Hadge/ar,
where we were detained this evening by the' rain.

FEBRUARY xi.
THE rain continuing, we ill remain at Haagelar, in the houe
and company of Signior Lapanl. Among the epulchers adjoin
ing to this village, upon a one pillar, are to be een the four
following imperfect incriptions, cut at dierent times.
B. H. ZET -. . TTXHZ . . . II. ZEBHPEINA XEB.

THZ AZIAE KAI AIZ NEQKOPQN

TON ZEBAZTON EMTPNAIQN
HOAIZ ANEETHEEN EI'II ANOTIIATOT
AOAAIANOT FENTIANOT '

FL. VALENTINIANO
ET FL. VALENTI
VlCTORR.v S. P.

CONSTAN ....... ...

CONSTANT .........
. . NORR. CAESS. D D
.......VI..'..
1 Vid. Water. Oxen. p. 297. ed. Prid.
FEBRU
 ' l'iT'i**

56 A JOUFRNEY om SMYRNA

FEBRUARY xii.
Wz et forward this morning by ix a clock, and about mid
day journeying to the left of mount sipylus, and the fair city of
lliagneia, we r cros a mall bridge over a river, which feeds
the Hermm, and about one a clock pas the Hemms itelf, on a
bridge of an hundred and ixty paces in length. From hence
we ride half an hour on the ilver banks of that pleaant river, and
thence over the plain to Tartalcui, where we coude-5.

FEBRUARY xiii.
WE proceed on thoe fair plains, which lead towards Hya
zira, and within an hour of the town come to the Hyllus or
Phrygius, not now paable at its uual ford; we therefore ride
along its banks, and croing near to 779yatim arrive there in ix
hours from our la camick. This city is eated in a pleaant and
fruitful plain, well watered and wooded, and rich in many pro
ductions, but particularly that of excellent cottons. About the
city l oberved a great quantity of mieltoe on pear and almond
trees, o thick on ome of them, as to form the appearance of a
true evergreen, covered with its own leaves and branches. And
the like I afterwards oberved on an alder, not far from Sarrz'cui.
I here took thee three Greek incriptions, which have not, that
I remember, been oberved by others 3 and were before omitted
by me, when at this place. 'he r of which is as follows.
AFAOHI TTXHI
OI HEPI TON HPAKAEA TON HPQTQN FTMNAZION
KAI KATA TO APXAION TOT TPITOT NEANIEKOI * ATP.
GHEEA NlKH<OPOT OTATEIPHNON NIKHZANTA EN
AOEQE I'IAFKPATION EN TOI THO ATTQN EHITEAOT
MENOI EHINEIKQI ZEBHPEIQI AFQNI TUO El'IlZTATHN
ATP. ATTIKON ZQZIMOT z

'By this and the following incription we mae indicat; in qua aliguaties nominati, of
nd, there were everal chools here, where me) Ta- 'Hcgnataaz dam-3., id c, Hcrculanei
young perlons were trained up to athletrc atbletae. So in other incriptions we have
exercies in honour of Hercules. For as or' me: nlv Am'wm rexuT-uu, artrs employ
Lipius oberves, Saturnal. Serm. L. iii. c. ed inthe rites of Barcbur. _ '
23. Atbletis et gladiatoribus Hercules prae- 1 In this incription the l is added to the
ee putabatur, qui facta ejur 't rour ae- lavowel of the datrve cae, as ln that above,
mularentur, De atbletis [apis Graecu: Ro- pag'. 53. * p
s The
 a

M.ADRIANOPLE 57
The econd is this:
AIKINNlON POYOINON ETFKAHTIKON TiON AIKINNIOT
POYOINOT OI I'IEPl TON HPAKAEA HPS'ZTSZN PTMNAELQN
NEANIEKOI KAI KATA TO APXAION TOT TPITOT.

The third thus :

KAATAIA . KATEZKETAEE TON BSZMON MOZKIMANSZ
TSZ TEKNSZ MNHMHZ ENEKEN EAN AE TIE METAOH ATTO
THOKElZETAl T <IEKSZ X. O.

To thee may be added the following military epitaph.

C. IVL. CRE. S. CAEN. S. MILES
XII L. VIXIT ANNOS XXXV
MILITAVIT ANNIS XV FL CASTVS
FRATER ET PRIMVS HERES EX TESTA
MENTO IVSSVS POSVIT

FEBRUARY Am
WE et out by eight a clock this morning, and at an hour's
diance from the city once more cros the Hyllus at the meeting
oftwo oppoite hills, which hut in the plains of Thyatira. Hence
we pas thro a fore to Gelemha, an hour before which place occur
caves with quare and regular doors cut out of olid tocks. At
Gelemha we lodge in the great hane, by the door of which at the
diance of ten or twelve yards runs the famous Caicus. Here we
drank a pleaant ort of Turkih liquor, made of grapes eeped
in water with ower of muard feed.

FEBRUARY xw
BY break of day we et forward, and in one hour's travel begin
to mount the foot of Temnus, a low but large and dicult moun
tain, and at the ame place cros the r branch of the Caieus, not
far from its fountain. We pas ithe re of this day thro a ony
road on the Tiemnus, and upon the ame mountain ix hours from
our eoneich lodge at the unpleaant Kurugelchz'ch ; where we were
joined by two Turks, Muapha' and Chalz'l, who accompanied us
to Adrianople.
FEBRUARYiWi
WE travel ill over the Temnus, and on our right hand dicover
a large open vale on the top of the mountain, rich and well cul
Q, tivated .
58 A JOURNEY -om SMYRNA
tivated. In omewhat more than ix hours we had paed the
Temnm, and enter into a rich plain extended all along the backide
of Ida,the
from nowroad
Cora'a'g; at the the
we decry footagreable
of which,eat
about our miles diant
of Baltiht'ar. From
this ide of Ida thro a rich and fertile campain ows the river
Aee'pus, now called Simow by the Turks, which we cros by an
old bridge at the village of Mandaho'ra, and there take our co
ndch in a large and convenient hane ; which is more to be noted
for its even large pillars of coure porphyry, now employed to
upport the roof of this barbarous ediice, but might poibly once
and in ome fabric of antient Troy, from whence Mandaho'ra
is diant about ten hours.

FEBRUARY xvii.
BY eight a clock we et forward from Mandaho'ra, leaving the
Aeepas to urround thoe hills on our right hand, whil we pro
ceed a horter way, over mall hills and dales, to meet it again in
ix hours and a half at Suhgierlz'ch, where we were entertained in
the public hane with excellent pike taken in that river.

FEBRUARY xviii.
We begin to bend our coure more directly towards the Hel
Iepont, and in order thereto proceed over a tract of gentle moun
tains, which Homer calls with: vetioc'lov'ildzqt ' ; now frequented with
wild beas, but pleaant for the propect they aord us on our
right hand, almo
the ehpns whil as
wefarpurue with ourwhere
as Mtihalz'ch, eye the wholethe
it enters coure of
ea. In
three hours we pas by an old village and adjoining cale called
lwinya's, which name it likewie lends to the neighbouring plain
and lake; the former of which I take to have been antiently called
the plains of Zelia, and the latter the Nijuvn Aow'xuarzgz. Not far from
hence ows a river by the modern name of Maloetelee, paing
into the adjoining lake; after which are mall hills and pleaant
villages, till in ive hours we decend into the plains of Zelia,
which are pleaant, fertile, and well cultivated. Here we pas
thro large elds of wallnut trees, which bring us in ive hours
and a half to the banks of a fair and broad river; which I
take to be the Tar/ias of the antients, and by the Turks is now
vulgarly called Tarza. We were here obliged to 'ferry over
' Iliad. 7. if 339. * See strain, Lib. xii. pag. 550.
2. with
 to ADRIANoPLE. 59
with our hores three together in a boat, the ream being not
ecurely fordable. In one hour and half from thence, thro a
level and verdant campain to the left of the above mentioned lake,
we come to Humumlee, and there condck. The lake we leiurely
viewed from our cona'ck, and could compute it to be about thirty
miles in Circumference, being always full of water, and ored
with plenty of h, among which it then furnihed us with de
licious pikes. We were here informed, that the river, we lately
paed, empties it elf into this lake, from whence by a new
chanel it takes its coure to Milyalzick, where together with the
efpm it oon after falls into ther ea. And directly beyond this
lake we then beheld the fair exalted hills of Cyzicus, and the
Peninhla Cyzicena.

FE B RUARY xix.
BY ix this morning we leave Humumle'e, where we had been
lodged not inconveniently in a farmer's houe, and riding thro
a continued campain begin to view the nowy head of Ida. But
in ome time we again loe ight of it, and in ve hours from our
etting out approach to Bozacgeie, eated in the Arlraian plains 1;
and at the ame place to a large and fair river, by the Turks named
Boclew =, which we leave on our left hand, till in two hours we
cros it by a dangerous wooden bridge near Sorrz'cui 3, and there
conafck.
FEBRUARY xx.
BY x we leave Sorrz'cm', and proceed a little way, where a fair
is held at St George-tide, which continues for the pace of ten days,
and is much frequented. We then mount a high and eep hill,
which bears a ately and extended wood of oak ; the lower
hrubs of which produce a quantity of galls, and at the roots of
thee the ground is overpread with an excellent and well cented
age. On the top of this hill in three hours we have a near proe
pect of the ea, and ie ofMarmara, with one ide of the Pemin
ula of Cyzicus. By the fth hour we begin to decend on the
other de into a pleaant and green plain, and by the eventh
1 See Homer, Iliad. C. in catalog. it 335. ome Turks brought medals to be old,
= This river mu be the Gram'cur, which which I lo the opportunity of purchaing,
eems to bend its coure towards the Pem'n- becaue Mr. Farington upected them to be
ula of Cyzicus. pies.
I While I was abent from the comick,
arrive
60 AJouRNEYfrom SMYRNA
arrive at Dimotico, a market town, vulgarly o called from the
corruption, as l uppoe, of the antient Didymotichos. At this
place occurs a moderate river with a wooden bridge; and an
hour beyond the town a large one with a fair bridge of one,
built by the muniicence of Sultan Mahomet the fourth. Here are
to be oberved the marks of a royal way, denoted by two equal
and regular barrows on each ide, by which lies the Grand Sig
nior's road to the wars. Hitherto our way had all along urrounded
mount Ia'a, which often favoured us with the- ight of its hoary
head,
now anand many
hour rivers
farther to flowing
reach ourfrom its at
conarh watry bowels. butWeloing
Ptinetlee; had

our way, we were conducted by aeowherd (who was cudgel'd into

this civility by Mtapha' hey) to a mall pleaant village an hour
farther in our journey, where being obliged to force our recep
tion, we were thereupon lodged in the moaue of the place. This
will appear an inance very ingular in Turkey, and was looked
upon as an abomination by the ima'm of the parih; who could not
enter that place of his worhip on the following morning, with
out aluting us three times with Stifer Alla'h, that is, Godforhid.

FEBRUARY xxi.
IN an hard road betwixt barren hills we travel this day towards
yern/ack, a village which is the cale for paing the Hem-pent,
eated within half an hour of the antient Lampacus. This road
led us within four hours to the hore of the Propontis, along
which we proceed four hours farther to our cona'eh, where the ea
contracts it elf into that rait Chanel, betwixt Lampacus and
Callipolis. Here we nd a large haue, in which are about twelve
antient marble pillars, each of one fair intire one, ome round,
others chanel'd, and of various orders; all which I conclude to
have been undoubted reliques of the antient Lamp/nous. In the
yard of the moque at Jew/rich I took the two following Greek
incriptions
AFAOH TTXH
Tl. KAATAlON (AQPON I'ITKTHN NElKHEANTA ENAOZSZE
I'IAIAQN AFQNA TON MEFAASZN TTXElSZN APSZNOOETOTN
TOZ F. IOTA. EAESZNEQE TIO HAlAOTPlBl-IN KAATA.

KTPOE AI'IOAASZNIOT THN TAOHN KAI TON ENAFIZMON

Tl HATPI AIOAAQNISZ AI'IOAASZNIOT
\ FEBRU
 to ADRIANOPLE; , 61 "na-w"-"-'pqn-
- . .-.<-

FEBRUARY xxii.
Bv nine this morning we tranport ourelves and hores by
boat from j'erda'ch to Gallipoli, and in three quarters of an hour
. arrive by God's bleing on the European hore; where we bid a
joyful farewel to that of Aia, after a evere ea ieknes, which I
endured in the paage. At which time three years and three
months had paed, ince my ir arrival at Smyrna.

CALLIPOLIS, now called Gallipoli, was taken by the Turks in

the reign of Orcha'n, and anno Hegirae 760. It is now a city con
iderably large, but thinly peopled, and decayed in Commerce;
tho it ill plentifully enjoys that of cottons and anieed. lt ands
upon a blunt point of land, betwixt two mall open bays, of
which that to the north is exceeding pleaant, and has on its
green banks two fair Turkih epulchers, the newer and more
magnicent being that of Sindn paha'. Adjoining is a hane of
very gentile fahion, with a moaue, and other inances of cha
rity. The outhern bay has the walls of the antient arenal, for
the lodging of ores and galleys, which formerly wintered in
this place. Beides which the va rocks, which lie before the
town, are very remarkable; being a range but natural mixture of
and, pebbles, and cocklehells, of which materials all the houes
of the town are built. Herel aw a one gure of our. Sa'vior's
baptim in the river jordan, with another of the B. Virgin, carved
contrary to the practice of the Greek church in hao relieve.

FEBRUARY xxiii.
Vr. remain at Gallipol) this and the following day, expecting
Mr. Farington's cara-va'n. The breadth of the Hellepont is here
much inlarged, which at Lampacm, according to Xenophon, was
but fteen furlongs '.
FEBRUARY xxv.
WE et forward from Gallipoli in a mooth and pleaant road,
which by degrees acending begins quickly to how us the nar
row zlhmns of the Cherhneius, with the Propontis on one ide,

' 'E-'rAtuo-uv i; Alyolc woilupzir, a'v-n'ov rZc ai; arelenala'rxu. Hz. Graec, L, ii, p, 455_
AMMLG'KZ, Jrexe did 'EAA'io'rrov'lor morn; furiis; edtt. Leuncla'v. ,
R and
 62. A JOURNEY from SMYRNA
and the gulph of Cara'zia, or Sinus Melas, on the other, the ex
treme neck ofland being carce three miles broad. Our road now
inclines to the left hand, and o brings us round the blunt end
of the gulph, into which ows the fair river [We/as, which about
the fourth hour from Gal/zipali we cros at a regular and well built
one bridge. Hence we have a ony and mountainous way to
Alla/make, a Chriian village, where we comz'ck. Before bed
time we had here the company of the poor ignorant 'on-wrie, who
among other things told us, that he lately gave the bihop of He
rac/ea eventy dollars to ordain his on a prie.

FE BRUARY xxvi.
Wa depart from llalmalee, and in two hours and a half arrive
at Ma/gara, where I oberved a Turkih drink called boza'k, being
a. Whitih thick beer made of millet eed. This is a large and pleat
ant town, abounding in the production ofhoney, and bears the name
ofa lady, who redeemed its ecurity from plunder for a va um of
money, from the r Turkih conqueror. It is now reerved as a
place of banihment for the prime miniers of the empire. We pro
ceed homeward till about the ixth hour of this day's journey, when
having lo my watch the preceding evening, we earched the com
pany upon ome upicion we had entertained of a catergcie, who
yeerday joined us z and accordingly we nd it concealed in the
corner of his breeches. In ten hours we arrive at Derr/mi a mall
Chriian village, and there cana'ck. I mu not omit, that this
day we dicovered to the left the mountains of Samotbrace, the
coure of the Hebrm, and more forward the nowy top ofRacz'ope.

FEBRUARY xxvii.
IN two hours from our cana'ck we arrive at Uzlmlcupreie, a town
which has its name from the fair adjoining bridge of an hundred
and ixty ix arches, and by Saidzino is called Ponte d'Ercbziene 1. We
were the full pace of fteen minutes in paing this bridge, and to
wards the further end, which is the mo conpicuous part, we ob
erved ten or twelve heads carved on the battlements, that encloe
the bridge, in memory, as it is aid, of o many chief workmen
rangled by Sultan Mora't the r (who founded it) for building
it o narrow, as not to admit of two carts at once. In two hours
farther we arrive at the andy and deliciousbanks of Hebrzzr, ju
' Pag. 42.
3. oppoite'
 to ADRIANOPLZ. 63
oppoite to the city and cale of Dimatico, where Sultan Mordt
began to eat the palace of his emperial reidence. From hence
we pas along the bank of that low, but then plentiful river *,
and after two hours and a half take up our lodgings in a cold
inconvenient hovel at Elclyilee.

FEBRUARY xxviii.
BY ve this morning we proceed in a level andy road on the
banks of the Hebrus, where we oberve a va quantity of wild
fowl, and by nine arrive at the palace of my Lord Paget in
Adriample, being lled with admiration at the beauty of the ri
ver, campain, and propect of o fair a city.

ADRIANOPLE is eated on the Hebrus, at the place where it

receives the Tzma and the Harda. It is a fair and compact city,
about five miles in Circumference, riing gently on the ide of a
mall hill from the banks of the Hebrus and Tzma 1. What is there
remarkable, may be reduced to the erag/io, maques, and har
acies. The eraglia is built in a at and verdant plain, at the
foot of the city betwixt the Hebrm and Tuna, but more imme
diately upon the banks of the latter. It is urrounded almo on
all ides with a thick grove of beech and elm, which within form
the reemblance of a park, and outwardly yeild a grateful pro
vpect, in regard that the countrey about itis almo wholly naked of
wood. A quare wall encloes the fabric, which is truly mean,
and of a confued intricate gure; but, as is commonly aid, well
contrived for convenience. The matter is plain free one, and the
covering of lead. Nothing can be more grateful to the eye, than
the ight of this level verdant ituation 3 and yet in regard of its
lownes, and too near approach to the rivers, nothing more
unwholeome.
Conamzine gave It eems
that to and
famous defeatintotheLzicinnim
very ame3. place, where

THE mogues obervable in this place are thoe called Fhijamzi,

the Three S/aehs, Sultan Bajazet, and Sultan Se/Im. The r
1 The Hebrur is large and ull in winter, graphy of Troy, was not o well acquainted
yet carries but a low ream, which in the with thee parts, ays: Aen. i. j. 32 1.
ummer time is carce able to ow. Hence Volucrcmque fuga prae-vcrtitur Hebrum.
Ovid. Heroid. iii. I 15. zZaimur, Lib. ii. p. 95. ed. Oxon. me'
v Et acer admza: exigit Hebru: aquas. 3 mue; ma; wolayci; 79? 'Been WFCz'Ma,
But Virgil, who, as appears from his geo- 3 Ib'idem.

of
 64 A'JOUR'NEYOM SMYRNA
of thee is o called from its antiquity, which Mora't the r here
eablihed, and converted to that profane ue from a Chriian
church, of which it ill retains the intire igure. The econd is
to be oberved for the abundance of porphyry, which appears in
the fabric, and the various architecture of the four minarees, to
gether with many erpentine pillars, which upport the porticos of
the area. The third likewie has many erpentine pillars round
the area, and thoe of interrupted Veins and diinct materials,
which eem to peruade one, that they are of a ca ubance.
But the greate beauty of this city, and as ome think of the whole
empire, is the mogue of Sultan Seh'm' the econd, built by him
out of materials brought chiey from the ruins of Famagua,
in the iland of Cylams. Yet in regard that the area is not quare,
nor upported with o rich or correpondent pillars, excepting four _
that adorn the front, I eeem it inferior to the two noble mogues
of Solymdn and Achmcctt at Conantinople. Otherwie it is a fair
ructure, built with great conformity of its everal parts, and like
a theatre coniing of one ately room ending upwards in a cupola,
It is adorned
which has twowith four forty
hundred regular
fourand beautiful
airsi leadingminarees,
into the each
upperof
mo balcony. For in each of them are three balconies, that imi
tate the capitals of pillars, between which the whole body of the
Column is regularly chanel'd. One of thee is famous for having
three aircaes winding one within another, of which one opens
into the three balconies, another into the two highe, and the
third only into the la of all. From thence we once took the op
portunity of viewing the everal parts and precincts of the city, the
- plat of the eraglz'o, the coure of the rivers, and the face of the
countrey below, with the buy care of the everal mortals, wan
dering like o many ants on that pot of earth then ubject to our
eye. Here I could not but pleaantly recollect thoe templa erena
of Lucretius, L. i. V. 8.
Depzioere unde queas alios, pamque eidere
Errare, atque ozam palantes guaerere oitae.
Adjoining to Sultan Bajazet Iwas hewn a madhoue or bedlam,
which is a noble building of a round figure, covered with a re
gular cupola, and having a large area in the middle, and therein
a ciern of water; but conveniently divided all round into ix
chambers made archwie, and opening on one ide into the area.
Here were kept three madmen, all furnihed with clean mats, and
tied

P'irlv
 to ADRIANOPLE.' 65 _ -_ .,-4._,=._

tied cloe down to the pavement by an iron chain faned about

their neck for greater ecurity.

THE haraees 'are two long and fair porticos, walled with brick
or one on each ide, and ecurely arched over head, o as to re
i re. The horter of thee adjoins to Salt-'an Selim, and is ap
propriated to the hoemakers: but the other, being about four
hundred paces long and ix broad, is illed with (hops of various
tracles ; all which are hallow niches in the wall of equal hight
and breadth, and in general o regularly contrived, that the whole
repreents a beautiful and rich gallery.

THE whole way from Gallipoli to this place lies thro a cam
pain rich and fertile, abounding with villages, and thoe almo
all Chriian. However it wants the lovely fountains, frequent
woods, and pretious hrubs of Aia.
l
MARCH lV,
SIR Robert Sutton, ucceor to my Lord Paget in his embay
to this port, who arrived at Adrianople about Chrimas la, had
now his audience of the grand wizir. My Lord Paget, with the
retinue of his own family, and the Englih merchants now rei
dent in this place, repaired to the palace of his ucceor about
twelve a clock. At the ame time came thither from the vizz'r,
the claiaua Lami, with an hore richly furnihed for Sir Robert,
and about thirty others for the ue of his retinue. From hence
the two ambaadors conducted by the claiauh bam', and attended
by a large retinue of the Englih nation, proceeded to the palace
of the weir. Upon their arrival into the room of audience, the
wizz'" oon entered, upported by his kayd and the reis cna'i, and
congratulated with acclamations from his whole attendance. He
eated himelf in a corner of the aplaa', and the ambaadors at
before him on two ools. After the old ambaador had preented
his ucceor, Mauro Cora'ato, who is maer of the ceremonies,
and dragoman to the Ottormm Part, gave and returned the or
dinary forms. Then Sir Robert delivered his Majey's letter to
the oizt'r, after which both ambaadors were treated with coee,
herbet, and incene, and the whole ceremony at length conclud
ed with the diribution of about twenty four caftam. The w'zt'r
is about ixty years of age, of hort ature, and ameek erene
3 countenance 3
66 A! JOURNEY aw SMYRNA
countenance; tho at this time omewhat moved with concern for
the los of his only on of two years of age. At this ceremony
he appeared in the elimee turbant, which is a cap of ate, and
was conceived to do an honour to the audience. It reembles the
form of a ugar loaf, only indented at the bottom on four ides,
and bound obliquely with a gold ribban.

MARCH x.
slR Robert Sutton had his audience of the Grand rl'igmiar at
the erag/zio of this place, whither he rode about even a clock
on a hore of ate, conducted as before by the cbiauo haf/m', and
attended by all the gentlemen of the Englih nation. At thee
audiences it is the cuom of the Turks to how omewhat of the
dicipline
ice at theofdziwz'n.
their oldiery, together owith
And therefore oontheas proces of their en
his Excellency ju

tered
ome at the r gate
companies of _7'amiaries,
of the the hraglio,ranged
into a large
on theandoppoite
green court,
ide,
ran with a great but orderly agility, to eize everal dihes of
their broth, placed at equal diances on the area of the court 3
after which they were remanded by the churbegder, who ran among
the ranks, and inead of words of command ordered them by a
certain gentle hiiing into their repective ations. During this en
tertainment his Excellency advanced towards the di'va'n, which is an
oblong ground room, opening on the front into a gallery, by which
only it is eparated from the court above mentioned. It is ur
rounded on three ideswith benches,covered with embroidered ilk,
and the oor is laid with carpets; otherwie it has no Ornaments,
nor embellihments of the walls. On the middle of the princi
pal bench, where it faces the door, at the grand oizz'r, having
one Crimon Cuhion under him, and another to upport his feet,
by which only he is diinguihed from other miniers of the di
vdn. On his right hand upon the ame bench at the caime
olra'm, and Abdolla' pam' on of the late Mtapbd Kioprilti ; but
on his left hand the two cadzctlq/kers, the one for Europe, and the
other for Aia. The two ide benches were took up on the right
hand by the mlaanged baoa', and on the left by the zefterda'r.
Sitting in this order, and maintaining a profound filence, they
dipatched everal caues of meum and tuum, in the ight of the am
baador and his retinue; in which there was no other proces, than
the reading everal uccinct caes to the vizz'r, together with the
depoitions
 to ADRIANoPIiE; 6?
depoitions of the witnees, upon which he pronounced his ver
dict, and the parties were immediately dimied. But in thee,
and other aairs of the like kind, the reis endi and tehergee
haha' alo ai; the former of which acts as olicitor and ecretary
to the dioa'n, and the latter is the gentleman uher, who carries
all meages and papers betwixt the Grand Signior and the oizz'r.
In the mean time the Grand Signior, tho he is never peroitrilly
preent in the dzioa'n, yet he is at his pleaure a witnes and over
eer
looksofout
all of
that
hispaes there,'by
apartments ju means of aeat
over the lattice window,
of the wizir. which
Thee
ceremonies ended, there were brought in divers tables and placed
before the oizz'r, the caimeha'm, the milhangofe, and the teerddr ;
all which being preently furnihed with various Turkih dihes,
the ambaador fat down to eat with the zrizz'r, and everal gentle
men'of the Englih nation with the other miniers. After this
repa (the oizz'r having r demanded leave for an audience) the
ambaador and all the re of the Englih gentlemen retired into
a diant part of the gallery, which fronts the chamber of the
divafn, and other lodgings of the eraglio, where they were all
veed, and then fat down in order till the di-va'n aroe, and the
everal miniers proceeded to the apartments of the Grand Signior,
the latter preceding, and the oizz'r cloing the proceion. Soon
after his Excellency was called to take his audience, to which him
elf, and four gentlemen, who were permitted to follow him, were
conducted by two capigees, who led them on each hand, in a
' rude and hay manner. By thee they were thus carried from
the outward gallery into a quare paved court, and from thence
into a railed entry, that landed them immediately in a ground
room, which was the preence chamber of the Grand Signior. It
was a mall room, of a quare gure', lined on the ides and oor
with crimon ilk, and that embellihed with an high and thick
embroidery of golden branches. . In one corner was erected an
high ophd about two yards quare, adorned with four rich cu
hions, and an anwerable mindera', all of which were in a man
ner intirely covered with embroidery of pearl. On this at the
Grand Signior, regarding the ambaador in an oblique poure,
and inking o deep in the mindera', that his thighs and legs were
not to be diinguihed. The other Ornaments of the room were
two windows, each furnihed with two cuhions, anwerable to
thoe of the ophoi; and more remarkable than all the re, a
royal chimney cloth, embroidered like the covering of the floor
and
 \

68 A JoURNEYfrom SMYRNA
and walls, but enriched beyond thee with various large jewels
et in the corners of the work, uch as pearls, diamonds, rubies,
emeralds and the like. The ambaador ood about three yards
diance from the Grand Signicr, where he delivered himelf to
Manra Cordato in Italian, and he interpreted his credentials im
mediately to the rfnltan. But his Majey's letter being handed
to Manro Cordato by his Excellency, it was by him delivered to
the nzbangee, by him to Abdolla' paba', and by him to the vizz'r,
who laid it before the Grand Signior's feet. Upon this the Sn/tan
directed himelf to the w'zz'r in thee words: " We eeem the King
" of England as our freind. On our part, all due regard hall be
" had to the acred capitulations made with him; and accordingly
" be it your care to ee them maintained." This aid, the am
baador was dimied the audience room, with the four gentle
men, who only were permitted to attend the ceremony. Upon
which all the Englih immediately mounted at the outward gate
of the eraglio, and there ood in rank and order to ee the jay/i
aries dimied; which is done in a regular but hay manner, and
eems to reemble the decnrio of the Roman army. After this the
everal Miniers of the died/4, begining with the lea, and end
ing with the w'zz'r, made a pompous proceiion on hores of ate,
adorned with broad guilded bridles, and houing of the French
fahion, wrought with nothing but entire thread of gold. After
thee followed his Excellency on an hore and furniture of the
ame quality, and o returned with the attendance of everal chi
anbes, and all thoe of the Englih nation, to his own palace.

THE habit of the everal miniers of the diva'n is exactly of

the ame form with the caftans, which they ordinarily pre
ent; but the matter is either ilk, or ne grogran, ur'd with
fable. Their turbant is that called the mngeveze'e; but that of the
Grand Szignior is the ame with the common agdr, only diinguih
ed by three mall, but ine and curious black feathers, with waves
of ah colour, being the outmo feathers on the Wing of the ar
guron, a rare Mucovian bird. The preent made by the amba
ador to the Grand Signior conied _of ixty pieces of dierent
materials, as cloth, ilk, attin, velvet, and the like, all of them
at the charge of the company.

5 MARCH

-_n'=1-. _.*
 to ADRIANOPLE. 69

M A R c'H xviii.
s MY Lord Paget had this day his audience of leave of the grand
oizz'r, where, beides the ordinary forms and ceremonies of coffee,
herbet, incene, and caftam, the letters of the vizz'r and Sultan
were brought in by the reis cmdi; and being by him reverently
kied and delivered to the vizz'r, were by the 'vizz'r kied in the
ame manner, and delivered to the ambaador, by whom they
were kied again, and committed to Mr. Paget, who bore them
repectfully on his two hands during the whole proceiion to his
Excellency's palace. The Sultcm's letter was encloed in a cover of
cloth of gold, about a foot broad, and a yard long, being wrote
on ne Perian paper made of ilk.

MARCH xix.
HIS Excellency had audience of leave of the mut), a reverend
peron about eventy years of age, omewhat corpulent, of an in
olent and proud apect, well learned in the. Turkih law and
polity, and formerly bogia to the preent Su/tan. He'is ex
tremely covetous, and at the ame time prodigiouy rich, ha
ving hoarded, as it is aid, one great part of the current gold of
the empire, and likewie purchaed many va and extenive
poeons about Erzerum and Trebiond, which is his native
countrey.
MARCH xx.
HIS Excellency had audience of leave of the caimeka'm, a
courteous, aable, and obliging peron, of no great eate or cha
racter, except that his wife is ier to the Sultan. The ame day,
being Friday, I aw the Grand Signior riding from his palace to
the moque, where he paid his public devotion. He was preceded
by everal claim/hes, then by x led hores, and then by everal
oldcks, habited in hort ves, and adorned with high caps of gilt
ilver. On each ide of his hore walked three churbegcies, bear
ing on their heads o many beautiful white orich feathers; and
behind him followed on ately hores his elicta'r aga', and ker
agd. He is of a low ature, but broad and corpulent; has a
hort neck, a large quat yellow flehy face, a flat noe, a low
forehead, with cheeks remarkably long and quabby. ln his coins
T he
70 A JOURNEY om SMYRNA
he iles himelf, The mighty Sultan of the earth andha, a Sultan
on of a Sultan, Sultan Muafd Han, on of emperor Mahomet.

MARCH xxi.
Hrs Excellency had audience of leave of the nahetih ndi, who
is the on of the mufti, and by patent the deigned ucceor of
his father. v He is about thirty years of age, of good parts and
behaviour, naturally arrogant, but made hew on this occaion of
an aected courtey.

MARCH xxiv.
I THIS day aw the heads of ive robbers brought from Natolz'a,
and laid at the gate of the eraglt'o, where by Cuom they are to
remain three uns. They are only the ikins of o many criminals
heads ued with raw.

APRIL ii. A. D. 1702..

HIS Excellency, my Lord Paget, now drawing near to his de
parture was this day invited to the grand vizz'r'r, where among
many ingular tokens of that eeem, which this court truely bears
to his peron and character, he received a plendid fea, together
with the preent of a able ve to the value of two pures; as
alo a noble hore, and umptuous furniture, computed at three
more.

APRIL iii.
I SAW the extravagant devotion of an enthuiaic ect of Turks
which they publicly acted in the manner following. After their
ordinary midday namdz at a little moque of this city, they re
paired to an adjoining chapel, where were eated many Turks of
dierent quality, who came thither as pectators only, and to en
tertain their Curioity. Thee everal ticvote'es, who were to act
their part, were decently ranked in circular eats, till the prior
of their order entered, on which they all roe to reverence him.
He immediately eated himelf in the corner of the room, and
with the whole fraternity ruck up a religious hymn, which they
carried on in a decent, olemn, and harmonious manner. This
done, they roe upon their feet, to the number of about ixty
2 perons,
 tOADRIANOPLE. r
71
perons, and form'd themelves into a cloe ring, each one holding
his hands on the brea and neck of his foreman. In this poure
they advanced round, repeating with a deep and forcible voice,
Hzi on; at the ame time amping violently on the ground, and
with great force throwing their heads towards the center of the
ring. Soon after-two ep'd within the circle, and turn'd wiftly
upon their heel 5 upon which the whole company quickened their
motion, and grew into a Warmth and fury, which is rather to be
admired, than expreed in words. For two hours and an half
they acted a continual fury, ometimes huging one another in a
cluer, at other times kneeling in a confued company, and' then
runing round in a circle without ceation ', throwing about their
hands, torng their heads, and repeating in hidious cries, Hn'
boy, Add/a build/a, Alld bn', or, Alld key. As they grew hoarer and
weaker, both their ound and action exactly reembled the bark
ing and narling of dogs', till at length being covered with
weat, and worked up to the la pitch of extay, they concluded
with certain vericles, which they repeated from the mouth
of the prior, and o dimied us 3.

APRIL iv.
MY Lord Paget paid his la viit this morning to the vizz'r
kaya', who preented him with a gentile hore and furniture. ln
the afternoon he likewie took his la leave of the rezis cendzi,
who honoured him with the like preent, and dimied him with
expreons, that witneed the incere and Cordial repect he bore
him. Ihallconclude this narrative with oberving only, that about
AdrianopIe grows an excellent red wine, which I take to be that
mentioned by He rod in his Oper. et Dies, L. ii. Y ro7, where he
ay-s: Hereat/77 're oxln, not? BZCAn/oc oTvoc.

' See Pytbagorae Symbolm, IIgonwmb inpired ays: Exercitur ejus repentino impetu
meaorgo'pmg, apud Lil. Gyrald. from. ii. mentis in acro: der' rdulatus ininctnr, cum
p. 669. edit. 1696. upore regis,ine noxa dicurrit. Lib. xii. c. 7.
* So J'uin decribing the rites of Bacchus, 3 See this ect decribed, and called Tzo
with which the oldicrs of Alexander were pbilar, by Hottinger,Hi. orient. pag. 365.

AN
 72 A JoURzNEY from ADRIANOPLE.

AN A cc o UN T of a journey from Aldrianople, thro

Balgaria, alacln'a, Tran/lvania, Hnnga'y, Ger
manj, Flanders, Holland, and thence to England,
in the years MDCCII and MDCCIII.

APRIL viii. A. D. 1702.

HIS day about ten a clock my Lord Paget et out from
ldrianople, and began his journey homeward with a plen
did equipage. Fir proceeded two c/yz'anbes, and ix janiaries;
then the three flags of the arms of England, the union, and St.
George, after thee the gentlemen of the hore, with thirteen led
hores; next the aga', appointed by the government to conduct
his Excellency; who was followed by four coaches, each drawn
by ix hores, in the la of which rode his Excellency himelf,
and in the r ome gentlemen, who accompanied him in this
journey; namely, Count Gylderope of Sweden, Mr. George
Montague, nephew to my Lord Hallifax, and his tutor Mr. Gan
gain.

FOR conveniency of carriage, and accommodations of the jour

ney, his Excellency was furnihed with eventy one waggons, which
were to attend him to the extreme bounds of the Turkih empire,
at the ole charge of the Port. Tho this was but the lea mark
of eeem, which he received from thence; as it may be rea
onably computed, that they preented him to the value of near
twenty pures of money, ince his la arrival at Adrianople, in the
following particulars. For the tting up of his palace in that city,
ve hundred dollars: for the cuhions and other furniture of two
op/ad rooms, ix hundred: for a ately hore from the grand oizir,
ve hundred: for the rich furniture of the ame, a thouand: for
a able from
niture ve atthe
the'wizt'r
amekaya',
time,ve
a thouand
hundred :: for
for an
thehore and fur
like from the
reis (ne/i, five hundred: for fteen mules from the government,
at
 to HOLLAND and thence toENGLAND. 73
at about fifty dollars each, even hundred and ifty: for eventy
two hores from the ame, at thirty dollars each, two thouand one
hundred and ixty: and laly for one hundred days tain, or al
lowance, from the Port, at the rate of fty dollars a day, making
ive thouand.

THIS day his Excellency and his retinue travel lowly about
the pace of ifteen miles, and about three a clock arrive at a
mall village called Senigee, where we nd the waggons dipoed
in their everal ations, the apartments of each com any alloted,
and three tents (tho not pitched this evening) ready or the ervice
of his Excellency ; which I here mention once for all, as being
the conant method of each following cona'ch.

APRIL ix.
FROM Senigefe we proceed this morning in three hours to Co
Mch Derocut, and from thence in the like time to Boidh Deroent,
where we nd his Excellency's tents orderly and conveniently
placed, and all things regularly dipoed for this night's lodging.
Here we aw an old Bulgar Chriian, named Stazin, aged one
hundred and twenty years '; who told us, that he had all his
life time been ubject to great and continual ieknes, and had
three times changed his teeth, once in his infancy, and twice in
his old age. They were now for the mo part intire, his enes
of hearing and taing very lively, and his ight but little decayed;
his beard and his eyebrows lately became perfectly black, but
the hair of his head milk white, and the kin of his brea like
the bark of an old weather beaten beech.

APRIL x.
We travel this day from Deroent to _7enz'cui, having hitherto
found the country to coni of a level campain, and a oil that
promied fertility, were it more happily furnihed with inhabi
tants, water, and wood.

We i now proceed fromAPRIL xi;

j'em'cui to Pahdcui, *' the
o called from

reidence of Achmet Gerac' Sultan, who is a Tartar prince, happily

I Concerning the longevity of the Aemimontian Thracians ee dram. Mrc, L. xxvii. c. 4.'
U banihed
74 A JOURNEY ain ADRIANOPLE
banihed from his own barbarous country to this fair and delight
ful village, ituated in a verdant plain, that is better furnihed
with wood, than the campain we had lately paed; and watered
with a mall river, which eems to rie from the bowels of mount
Haemns, and bend its coure towards the Tnna.

APRIL xii._
FROM Pabdcni we arrive at Comorwa, a rich well cultivated i
village, and plentifully upplied both with wood and water. In our
way hitherto from Adrianople we ometimes oberved drummers,
placed in the nature of watchmen, to give notice of the ecurity
of the road.

APRIL xiii.
FROM Comorwa we proceed in two hours and a half to Dooral,
leaving in view to the right hand a large Turkih town called
Cornibat, famous for dying, and pre ring the ne purple and
yellow leather of this country, whic it vends in great quanti
ties. From Dooral we begin to acend the foot of Hamms,
where the way winds o articially, as to take away the diculty
of acent. Here croiing a rapid river, which forms its chanel in
the body of the mountain, and thro a variety of diverting hades
and clifts, we arrive at length at an open plain on the top of the
hill, and therein at a true country paradie of Bulgar Chriian:
called C/aallikcava'k 1; where a new church has been lately ob
tained for the inhabitants, by the intere of Count Oetingb, em
baador extraordinary from his Imperial Majey. Here the dam
els of the parih entertained us this evening with a dance, which
tho performed with no great art or variety, yet had a certain plain
nes and implicity, which was truly grateful. The women here
wear as Ornaments, a ort of cravat coniing of various ilver
coins, and large boy ilver bracelets 3 who dimied us the next
morning with corn rewed in our way.
- Here I happily attained that Wih of O, qui me gelidis in valliur Hae'm'
Virgil, Georg. Lib. u. i'- 488. Si/Iat,_et inge'rti ramornm protegat 'moral
1 APRIL
 to HoL'LAN'D, andzctbence to ENGLAND. 75

'APRiL xiv.
ON the top of 'the hill we proceed for ome time in a level
road, thro a ately grove of oaks; after which the way begins
to decend, and being hortened by the pleaure of the hady
cene on each ide, leads unexpectedly into the adjoining plain.
In this we travel about an hour, near the foot of the delightful
Haemas, and then nd our quarters ready to receive us at a Chri
ian village, called Trdgoe. And indeed all the villages, which we
had hitherto paed from Adrianople, were intirely inhabited by
Chriians, who by nation are Bulgarians, but by their faith of
the Greek communion.

APRIL xv.
We ill continue o'ur journey at the foot of the mountain,
till in an hour's time we arrive at Ehl Stambol ; from whence the
way, now leaving Haemasat our backs, carries us in four hours more
to the r Turkih village, which had occurred in our progres,
called Boklar. Mount Haemm being the limit, that divides
'racia from Balgaria, or Moe/ia inferior of the antients, we
made this day's journey in the latter,- which hereabouts appears
as pleaant, as a ju mixture of hills and vales, woods and lawns,
. arable and paure ground can make it. The above mentioned
Ehl Stamool is a name given by the Turks to the remains of an
ancient city (poibly the Oecm Triballoram) which at the foot of
Haemas hews the intire tract of two walls ; the inward quare,
and of about a mile in Circumference; the outward almo circu
lar, and containing the compas of ve miles. But beides thee
it has no reliques of carved work, or any incription, that may
give light to the true name or hiory of the place. In one cor
ner only of the inward wall are everal Croes, and an image of
the Haven-n'ot, or Virgin Mother, barbarouy cut, with two or three
rude lines of modern Greek characters, in which nothing but the
word BaonN'o-av, or Queen, was now legible, and that corruptly
written, as it is here copied. By the abovementioned walls runs a
mall river from the Haemas, now called by the Italians Monte
Argentato, and by the Turks Batka'n.
APRlL
 76 A JOURNEY from ADRIANOPLE

APRIL xvi.
OVER a country, which is truly rich, as well as pleaant, and
curiouy varied by eay acents and decents, we proceed in ve
hours from Tra'goe to Amou'tcui 3 avillage whoe inhabitants are of
the Greek communion, tho its name implies them to be of Albanian
original.

A PRI L xvii.
THRO a pleaant tract of country, containing a grateful variety
of arable ground,' Paure, and woods, we arrive in even hours
at Uzzmgcie Alom By the way we paed everal villages, as like
wie a large market town, wherein are even mogues, and a
palace o the paha' of Nicopoli, which goes by the name of
Ra'grad. The cadz' of this place, with an alai, cbiauh, and other
ocers, came an hour out of town to meet his Excellency.

APRIL xviii.
THRO a like country, onlya little more woody, we continue
our journefy to Upier. And from thence the day following,
where we r begin to ee the Danube, we proceed thro a rich,
pleaant, and well cultivated country, till about twelve a clock
we arrive at Tutraca'n, on the banks of the river.
4'
APRIL xx.
WE ay at this place, employed in the care of tranporting his
Excellency's equipage on the other ide of the water; and in the
mean time cannot but reect with pleaure on the agreable tract
of ground, which for ve days we had paed thro in Maca In
ferior. .A country, which (however decried by Ovid, and di
paraged by our modern geographers) or the richnes of its oil,
variety of riing and falling ground, elegancy of propect, and a
competent proviion of wood and water, is perhaps not to be pa-l
ralleled by any other pot in vthe univere. But tho the whol'e
tract of this country, which decends gradually rom the foot of
the Haemus to the banks of the Danube, is rich both in arable and
paure ground; yet the inhabitants eem exceive poor, and are
defended from the injuries of the weather by houes very meanly
built. Azzxn.
 to HoLLAND, andtbence to ENGLAND. 77

APRIL xxi.
HIS Excellency and his retinue this day pas the Dannoe, be
tween Tntracrin and the mouth of the rgic/J, about eight in
the morning, at a paage about a mile broad. Upon landing, his
Excellency was complimented from the Prince of alachia by
his couin german Count Tomdo Cantacnzcino, and was received
by a guard of fty men, and two coaches of ix. In the ner of
thee his Excellency rode about a mile into Valacbia, along the
banks of the Argi/bb, and then alighting was entertained under
three rich tents, ent likewie by the Prince for his reception.
ActP R I L xxii.

HlS Excellency continued his journey about ix hours thro the

alac/oian, a country which on this ide is exactly level, and
luxuriantly rich, but deolate for want of culture and inhabitants.
In the road we meet with wooden Croes, erected in many places
to excite the devotion of Chriian travelers ; as alo a convent of
monks about two hours hort of our condck, near which the
Argzi/o/o receives the chanel of the Demoowitza. At length we
arrive at a mierable collection of cottages, carce deerving the
name of a village, but bleed with the convenience of a de
licious and healthy water; where we nd the tents both of the
Prince and his Excellency ready pitched for his entertainment
this evening. We were conducted hither by Count Toma'o, who
undertook the care of the public tain to be furnihed for his Ex
cellency.

APR I L xxiii.
WE proceed four hours thro a pleaant wood, enriched with
[il/in conoallinm, and other owers,- and at length pitch our tents
at Pope/2, which in the alacbian language ignifles the ame as
Prie-town. Here about ve in the evening his Excellency re
ceived an expres by Baron Minheim from Count Rabutin, with
the mo unhappy news of the death of his Britannic Majey, on '
the eighth pa.
X APRIL
78 A JOURNEY from ADRlANo'P-LE

APRIL xxiv.
ABOUT even this morning his Excellency et forward, and
prepared for his entrance into Bacare, which is diant about an
hour and half from Pope/i. Not far from his cona'clz he was
met by a rich coach from the Prince of Valac/aia, complimented
by his two elde ons, and attended with a guard of about ive
hundred men. His Excellency having mounted the coach, pre
ceded by the guard, made his entry about nine a clock ; when he
was conducted to a pare palace of the Prince, near that of his own
reidence, and entreated .to _ue it as his own home. It is a fair
and gentile houe, built of one, and covered agreably to the
cuom of this place with wooden tiles; and being furnihed with
apartments after the Chriian fahion, may be eeemed magni
cent, when compared with the barbarous edices of the neigh
bouring Turks. From the front it looks into a large garden, and
from the right wing into another of omewhat a leer ize ; both
which are agreable, and aord a convenience of hade and
verdure.

THIS afternoon the Prince came on horeback thro the leer

garden to viit his Excellency, who met him at the garden door,
and could carce prevail with him to precede in going up airs.
He returned Cantacuzenas,
Conantzinus in an hour, and gavethe
who has opportunity to hisolnic/oo,
oce of grand uncle,

or eward, in this court, to pay my Lord the ame compliment.

The name of the Prince is Joannes Conantinas Baaraoas, who
has enjoyed the principality about thirteen years, having ucceed
ed Serbanas Cantacuzenus,
antinus Stolnzic/oar. He is brother of the
a promoter of above mentioned
good order Con
and dici
pline in the province, a reviver of architecture, and incourager
of learning both at Beware/I and other places of the principality;
into which he has introduced two or three printing prees, and
from-thence publihed everal books ueful for the inruction and
edication .of the Greek church, He is about forty even years
of age, 'and has ten children, four of them ons; the econd of
whom, being about fourteen years of age, is well inructed in the
Latin and Greek languages. He is of an aable, mild, and cour
teous temper; generous, careful of the education of his family,
and a great encourager of religion; and therefore liberal in his
r dihure
 to HOLLAND, and thence to ENGLAND. 79
diburements for printing and giving away books, erecting of
monaeries, adorning of churches, and other acts of piety. His
uncle, Conantinm Cantacuzenus Stalnicbm, is an elderly peron,
who has traveled over mo parts of Europe; is (killed in the
controveries of their own church, as well as in the everal liberal
ciences ; is alo well vered in politics, and by his counels chiey
uains the preent Prince, with the honour and intere of the
principality.

A P Rl L xxv.
BY nine this morning his Excellency returned the viit to the
Prince, who received him at the head of the airs, and entertained
him at r with a conference of about an hour and half long.
After this his Excellency was conducted into the dining room,
where, at a long table umptuoufly pread, the Prince and his Ex
cellency (the former on the right hand) at down to diner. On
the ide of his Excellency at the two elde ons of the Prince,
his on in law, with the other nobles and ocers of the court.
On the ide of the Prince at in order the retinue of the ambaa
dor, with our conductor Count Tomao and others. The ea was
protracted at lea even hours, during which paed a great variety
of coures,>con1ing of excellent and coly dihes, with plenty
of exquiite wine, and many ceremonious healths; the principal
of which were to the Grand Signior, the Emperor of Germany,
and the Queen of England, all econded with alvoes from the ol
diery in the adjoining court. Here we were made Witnees to a
- ingular air of courtey, hopitality, and gentile behavior in the
Valachian nobility; but more particularly in the Prince himelf,
who drank to the health and properity of each ranger at the
table. At the concluion of the entertainment he veed his
Excellency with a rich ilk robe of the Valachian ahion, lined
with an excellent able fur, upon which his Excellency and his
retinue return to their own lodgings. The palace of the Prince,
with the apartments, and gardens adjoining, are truly noble and
magnicent ; and tho not to be compared with thoe of ome other
Chriian princes, yet much preferable to thoe, in which the ig
norant Turks o ambitiouy pleae themelves.

An. u
 80 A JoURNEYfmmADRmNo-PLE.
APRIL xxvi.
THIs morning we had divine ervice and a ermon in his Ex
cellency's family, and in the afternoon he paid a hort viit to
the Patriarch of yern/blent, but afterwards a much longer to the
abovementioned Conantt'nns Cantacnzenns Stolnichus. The Patri
arch lodges in a large kane, built by the preent Prince; where
are large apartments and magazines for merchants, the rent of
which may yeild about twenty pures per annnm, and is by the
Prince conigned into that Patriarch's hands for the ue of the
Holy epulcher.

APRI L xxvii.
I VISITED the pres of this place, where I found them print
ing ome pieces of devotion in Arabic, under the care of the Pa
triarch of Antioch to be diributed by him about his dioces. Be
ide this, they were undertaking to print a large folio of the famous
Maximus Hieromonachm, called Kvetocxoelgo'juzav, or The coarh of
the everal Snna'ays throughout the year. On this occaion I there
bought everal books, among which'one containing all the Ltitur
gies, Hymns, Rituals, Lcbns, and other devotional tracts, ued on
all occaions in the Greek church through the coure of the whole
year.

THis morning the Prince gave his Excellency another viit,which

he returned in the afternoon, and at the ame time took leave, with
a deep ene of the generous, honourable, and aectionate treatment
he had received in this court. After his return from the Prince,
he received a viit of leave from Con/lantinns Cantacuzenns Stolm
chus, who then preented him with a gentile hore of the Vala
chian breed, and at the ame time two of the ame breed and
quality were ent him from the Prince, upon which his Excellency
anwered the preent of Conantt'nns with a diamond ring, valued
at three hundred pounds.

THE ame dayI was favoured with a preent of everal Greek

books, lately printed in this province, from Kiig Feaipyto; Kotg-gzai
me; as likewie of ome others from his Excellency Con/lanttnm
Cantacuzenus. Towards the evening our Curioity led us half an hour
out of town to viit a convent, called in the Valachian tongue the
Catrocha'n,
 to HOLLAND and thence to ENGLAND. 8r
Catrochein, and founded by the late Prince Serhanus Cantacuzennsz
ltis accounted the mo beautiful of everalin this province, found
ed by the preent and preceding princes; and therefore a hort
account
ated of Demhowtitza,
on the this may ervewhich
for a wahes
pecimen of two
it on the re.
ides; It is itu
while the
i other two are adorned with a grove of lovely, cloe, and hady
oaks. The neighbouring paures aord an entertaining profpect,
whereas the parts nearer to the convent are dipoed into orderly
vineyards, and gardens. The fabric it elf is an oblong qua
drangle, built of regular and may one, divided into cells for
about forty monks, with lodgings for the abbot, a common re
fecto-ry, kitchin, and other public apartments. But in the middle
of the area is erected the chapel, of the exact gure of the antient
Greek churches, that is, diinguihed into the VOZEOHE or pore/o,
wgo'roco; or outward chapel, volat' or hody of the church, Bpcoc or
chancel, and &value-'Jews or altar ; the everal parts being regular
and ately, upported with pillars, and covered with high cu
polas. The Ornaments of painting, gilding, and embroidery are
exceeding rich; and the pictures o numerouly dipoed, as to
poes every part of the church in the inide, as well as the out
ide of the front. Here is hewn the monument of Serha'n the
founder, with his princes, his brother, and other relations; whoe
pictures, among others, poesa great part of the weern wall.
Here alo are kept the two hore tails, allowed by the Turks to
be carried before this prince, together with the handtera of the
province, and another called the pachal colours, in which the
whole Trinity is profanely repreented, and God the Father ex
preed by the image of a reverend old man, looking over the body
of our Saoior, as it hangs upon the cros.

BUcURssT is a large ragling town of a very peculiar make,

the outward parts very mean, 'coniing of houes, the greater
part of which is under ground like our cellars, and covered over
at the top with raw or bark of trees. The better ort of houes
are about the palace of the Prince, which are covered with hand
ome wooden tiles, the walls built of ubantial one, and the
yards and gardens always very wide 1, encloed with intire trunks
of oaks et as near as poible to each other. The reets appear
' Suam qm'gue domum patio circuna'at, citia aed'jicandi. Ne caementorum apudillos,
ve adverus caus ignis remedium, rvt m- aut tegularum uus. Tacit. De m. G. c. xvi,
Y like
82 A JoURNEYirom ADRIANOPLE
like a continued bridge, being floored from ide to ide with
may planks of ten yards long, and as many inches thick; which
work, however expenive it may eem, is continued thro all the
buildings of the place for the extent of ome miles together. The
ight of the whole is agreable at a diance, by reaon of the e
veral houes of the nobility, the palace of the Prince, and the
number of churches and convents. Thee la are all of one
form, regularly built, and riing with cupolas, wherein bells are
often hung; which I mention, as being the r I had heard
ince my arrival in Turkey.

THE whole provinee is luxuriantly rich, abounding with woods

and paures, but thinly inhabited, and that in caves and huts
rather than houes. Its chief income proceeds from wax, honey,
hides, hores, the mines of alt, and cuom on ome places of the'
Danuhe. By thee it is able to maintain its prince and barons
plendidly, beides paying a yearly tribute to the Turk, that is
ettled at three hundred and twenty pures, which are equal to
thirty two thouand pounds erling, beides three times that um
extorted beyond the compact. The lands of the province are in
tirely in the hands of the Prince and barons; the re, who are
ruics, being all either laves or ervants, whoe perons or er
vice are at the dipoal of the everal nobles, on whom they de
pend.

A P R I L xxviii.
WE proceed this morning from Bucure, and after ve hours
travel take up our lodging at a mall village, called Chrythule.
In the way we op a little towards the right hand to viit a gentile
palace, which is building by the Prince for his econd on, ituated
on a pleaant lake. And the day following, in even hours from
Chryt/hule/i, we pitch our tents, and lodge near a mall river,
called Ilo'f. '
APRIL xxx.
THIS day about twelve a clock we arrive at Tergow, where
his Excellency and his retinue are lodged in the palace of the
Prince. The form and ate hereof much reembles that of Bu
cure; only it has the advantage of a much ner garden, and
therein of a beautiful one ummer houe; both which are regu
3 lar,
 "f-pq- **- r >v**- * e

to HoLLAND, and thence to ENGLAN 13. 83?

lar, and may compare with thoe of the politer Chriendom.
The town is pleaantly ituated on thelolomt'tza, beyond which it
enjoys the propect of a beautiful tract of hills, which make the
boundary betwixt this province and that of Tranylvania; but on
the other hand, the eye loes itelf in an even boundles plain, en
circled at a large diance with ately woods. The city gives title
to the chief Metropolite of Valachia, and in like manner, till with
in thee thirty years, was the reidence of their princes; when a
rebellion again the Turks being here formed by Prince Ghiha,
and the neighbourhood of Tranylvania contributing to render the
place more' upected, his ucceors were conrained to demo
lih it, and retire to Bncttrej. But within ve years the preent
Prince has obtained freh leave to reeablih it, on condition he
erects no fortifications in the place; and accordingly it begins a
pace to be repeopled, while the Prince reits his palace, embel
lihes his gardens, and invites the nobility to erect their repective'
houes, that o they may attend him in thoe frequent reidences,
which for the future he intends to make here.

MAY i.
WE took the opportunity of the ay, we this day made at Ter-1
gow, to go after diner to a convent ituated on the adjoining
hills 5 which we found well built of fair freeone, adorned with
cupolas well carved in lattice work of the ame matter; but
above all commanding a delightful propect over the ubject plain,
and city of Tergo'oi , which on account of the palaces, the feats
of the nobility, and the many fair convents and churches there
extant, affords an entertaining landlkip.

MAY ii.
THIS day we travel 'four hours from Tergovt', and at length
pitch our tents in a pleaant place, urrounded with pendent woods,
by the name of [foot-a, not far from the ream of the Demhowitza,
which yet continued to ow on our left hand.

MAY iii.
THIs morning we proceed, and within half an hour arrive at
the foot of the mountains, where the Demhowitza decends into
the
 84 AJoURNEYwn ADRIANOPLE
the plain thro an eay clift, which it perhaps has partly formed
by the continual and rapid coure of its ream. Thro this plain
we travel even hours, in which time we are obliged to cros the
winding chanel of the river twenty times or upwards ; and be
ing conantly diverted by the murmer of the falling waters; by
the hade of the helving hills that form the vale, and by the
evennefs of the acent which imperceptibly leads us up the moun
tains, we at length pitch in a fair meadow incloed like a theatre
with urrounding trees and hills, where is a mall village by the
name of Cotonci.

MAY iv.
WE continue our journey four hours thro the ame ort of way,
that is, along anarrow hady vale, which conveys the winding wa
ters of the Demhowitza ; which having croed everal times, we
at length arrive at the village of Dragoaoe, and in half an hour
farther at that of Ruhar, in the Greek map, 'Per/axe, where we'
pitch and repoe this evening. This village is coniderably large',
coniing of houes all of the Valachian fahion, that is, built
round with trees laid even upon one another, covered with an,
high and eep roof coniing of wooden tiles, and within having
no funnel or chimney to convey the moke, but open only in e
veral parts of the roof to upply that defect.

MAY V.
BBlNG now imperceptibly advanced almo as high as the nowy
tops of the mountain, which we ee at a near diance impend
ing over the village, where we lodge, we are informed, that the
remaining acent for the pace of half an hour is very dicult,
and that afterwards we are to encounter a much more troubleome
decent. His Excellency therefore thought fit to repoe here this
day, and to take that opportunity of ending before him his wag
gons, coaches, and the greate part of his baggage; that on the
morrow, when he himelf was to et forward, he might pas with
the greater eae. In the mean time, conidering that we then
hoped to pas the limits, that eparate the two Provinces of Tran
. yl'vania and Valachia, it will be here proper to et down uch
general remarks, as occurred in traveling thro the latter.
THIS '
 to HOLLAND, and thence to ENGLAND. 85
THIS province was under the Romans from Trajan to Gallie-a
nns, or rather to Aurelian; who, tho he was born here, yet tran
lated the remainder of the Romans hence into Maeia and Pan
nonia. When it became tributary to the Turksby force of arms,
it was glad to accept the impoition of three hundred and twenty
pures yearly; whil Moldavia, which voluntarily ubmitted to
that yoke, was aeed at no more than ixty. Ever ince, the
nomination of their prince has entirely reided in the Turk, who
nevertheles allows him all rights of overeignty in the principaliu
ty, except that of declaring war, and coining his own money.
That which ordinarily paes in this countrey, is therefore either
the Dutch, or Venetian' lion dollars; with the quarts of'Poland s'
and a mall Saxon coin, here called bains, of which one hundred
thirty two make a lion dallar. Juice is here performed accord
ing to the ancient laws of the province, which are agreable to the'
Roman law. The power and act of pronouncing entence is"
wholly in the prince, after which, as commonly in Turkey, the
execution immediately enues. For the better adjument of tri
bute, and other common duties, the whole province is divided
into eventeen counties, of which each is to furnih its repective
proportion. In time of war it ordinarily maintains twenty thou
and men, of which about the fourth part continue in pay in the
time of peace.

THE natives ordinarily call themelves Romans, and their proj

vince Tzerra Romaneca ', being peruaded that they are decended
of that original. And in favour of this opinion they may allege
their language, which is a broken mixture of Latin and Italian,
into which have been accidentally adopted ome few Turkih and
Sclavonic words. They write intirely the Cyrillian Sclavonic cha
racter, which eems to be a detortion from the Greek. And
thee properties of their language, as well as the character ', they
have in common with Moldamiaz which two Provinces, together
with Tranylvania, conituted the antient Dacia, the two former'
Ripenis, and the la Med'iterranea. The wines of this pro
vince, epecially about Tergovi, are exquiite ne. The Vau
lachian habit much reembles that of the Turks. Their religion
l Aur. Victor. Epit. cap. XL. Galm'us or- one aid to be invented by St. Hierom, which
In: Dacia Ripeni,
ex 'vacabulo Romulaequem lacum
macttris Romaliamm isthenow
appellarati ued
other byby
St. the Racians
Cyril, properand
to Bonians;
Valachia,
* The Sclavonian character is twofoldz Moldavia, Mucovy, &it.
Z- is
 86 A JoURNEY'om ADRIANOPLE.
is intirely that of the Greek church, and the government of it
ubject to the Patriarch of Conantinople. Their liturgic rites
are performed either in the Greek or Sclavonian tongue; tho l was
aured, that in ome churches the Valachian was admitted, at
lea they have frequently the Gopels and other oces in that lan
guage, but the liturgy itelf more rarely. The churches of each
parih, as well as chapels of the many monaeries, which are een
here, are uually very fair, well built, richly adorned, profuely
painted, and for the mo part furnihed with bells; tho in ome
places I have oberved the wooden plank, which is common to
the Greeks in Turkey, where bells are not permitted. The vaZEOnZ,
or porch, is generally daubed with uperitious reprefentations of
the punihments of hell; and often the inward walls are profaned
with ome inconient corporeal image of God the Father, a thing
here permitted again the profeed principles and declarations of
the Greek church.

MAY vi.
Wa proceed this day over the mountain, on a eep craggy rocky
way, lined on each ide with an dimal hade, and ometimes
looking down into a frightful precipice, By half an hour after
ten we arrive at the limits of the two provinces, which are diin
guihed by a wooden cros on the edge of the mountain, from
whence the propect begins to open into Tranylvania. Here my
Lord was aluted from the government of anylvania by Count
Michael Mikes, as well as from the magirates of Cronadt by
their deputy, and at the ame time attended by a troop of hore,
with the colours of the Emperor, as his ordinary guard; upon
which the troop of Cozchs, which had hitherto guarded his Ex
cellency from Tbrgowj, returned home. ln one hour and an half
from hence we decend the mountain, and at a narrow paage,
where the river Bozza nds its paage out of the nowy hills into
the adjoining plain, we arrive at the cale of Bran, a mall fortres
which defends this pas; where his Excellency was aluted, as he
paed, with three dierent alvos of about twenty one guns.
Within canon hot of this fort we ind a fair et of huts, ready
pitched for the reception of his Excellency, with abuttery, kitchen,
and other accommodations, provided for his ue by the aboveaid
Count Mihes; who now undertook the care of the public allow
ance
 to HoLLAND, andthence to ENGLAND. 87
ance and conduct of his Excellency from this place, as far as
Hermanjladt.

MA Y vii.
BY ix this morning we et forward from the cale of Bran,
directing our coure for Cronadt, being now about two Hun
garian miles, or twelve Italian, diant from it. In half an hour
his Excellency was met by major general Glychenherg, governor
of the forces
lieutenant at Cronadt
colonel Gravenand
of the
the parts adjoining
regiment 5 together
of general with
Rahutzin.
The ame civility he received from the judge and other magi
rates of the city, with whom, and the numerous retinue which
came along with them, we now proceed, making a train of a mile
long. In the mean time our road lay thro that pot of ground,
on which general Heuer was defeated, and made prioner by
Count Tekely in the year ixteen hundred and ninety; as alo thro
the town of Ronaw, lying in the middle betwixt Bran and Cran
adt, where there is a coniderable cale, which likewie aluted
his Excellency, as he paed, with three repeated alvos. About
eleven a clock we enter the city, the cale repeating continual
alvos, which we nd all in arms, and the reets lined on both
ides with muqueteers, as alo the whole oldiery drawn up in
order in the market place. In this is the houe of general Glycheni
herg, where his Excellency was received with all marks of repect
and honour, and in an hour's time invited to a noble entertain
ment. After diner, by order of Count Mhes, we were attended
to our everal ations, where a Tranylvanian gentleman was a
pointed to act as commiary, or provedito're, in each repective quar
ter. Particularly Mr. Paget and myelf were favoured with the
company and attendance of one Lodxaus Doeza, a civil, intelli
gent, and well behaved gentleman of the Helvetian conferon.
And this afternoon Mr. Paget and I walked up the cale hill, from
whence we had a propect of the city, which is almo triangular,
encloed with a one wall, ituated in anarrow vale, under an
high nowy clift of mountains, but on one ide looking towards
a level and fruitful plain. It is urrounded with three diinct
uburbs, beautifully intermixed with gardens; and in one part of
thee uburbs, which runs more within the hills, ands an hand
ome Valachian church. A dreadful re about fourteen years
ince laid the whole town in. alhes, and at the ame time utterly
3 conumed
 88 A JOURNEY from ADRlANOPLB
conumed the library of the chool, which is here inituted for
teaching of philoophyand theology. The ame calamity almo
ruined the cathedral church, of which now nothing but the out
ward cae remains to teify its former grandeur; the roof, which _
was of arched one, being now only covered with boards. _

i THE general' religion of this place is Lutheran; and the church

above mentioned is governed by a dean and thirteen capitularies,
who enjoy coniderable rents from the thirteen parihes of the di-
rict of Cronadt, which are upplied by them. The eccleiaical
government of the whole dirict is partly in this chapter, and
partly in the uperintendent of Cronadt; which oce is ome
times diinct, but for the mo part held together with the dean
ry; and from this uperintendent appeals lie to the bihop of the
whole province of Tranylvania.

THE civil government of the town is in a judge elected every

two years, a enate, and a commonalty of an undred men. The
entenee. of the judge is final, and is governed by laws of the
place 'model'd according to the civil law. The city ince the
fire is fairly rebuilt, with a certain regularity ofwalls and windows
to the reet, and the roofs are all covered, as in Volachia, with
wooden tiles. The common language is Saxon; this being one
of the cities, which belong to the great colony of that nation,
which makes one third of Tranylvania.

MAY ix.
THIS morning we depart from Cronadt at ix a clock by the '
'way of Feteteholm, which has a church fortied like a garrihn.
From thence we proceed thro woods and hills to eleain; where
in a cold watery plot of gras, urrounded with woods, we lodge
this night in tents. Here ltook leave of Count Tomeih, who then
preented me with 'two other books from Couantinus Stolnichar.

MAY x.
GENERAL GIychen/I'erg, who waited on his Exoellency to this
place from Cronadt, now returneddiither. We proceed thro a
troubleome way and dark wood to Sharhan, which at length we
nd deliciouy ituated upon a river, which a little way from
hence
 'to HoLLANI'), and thence to ENGLAND. 89
hence
of the enters the Alma,
mctinier, nowacalled
who was Alt. Here
Lutheran, I lodged
by name at the
George houe'
Sulartm;
and, it'being Sunday, I attended him to their evening ervice.

MAY xi.
WE et forward thro a fair, rich, and well cultivated country
to Fogeras, a large but cattered town, and there take up our a
tion by eleven a clock. His Excellency was here lodged in an
houe, which belonged to Count Tehely, who was prime mini
er to the late prince Aha, and flain in the defeat of General
Heuler near Cron/Zadt. lhad here ome converation 'with the chief
paor of the place, Michael Rozgont', a learned Calvini, who had
udied in Holland. At Fogeras is a cale urrounded with a wide
mote, and o rong, or at lea o fortunate, that it is aid never
to have been taken by force of arms.

MAY xii.
. )
FROM hence we proceed in ix hours to Ucha, a village inha*
bited intirely by Valachs. And etting out early from thence the
next morning, by twelve a clock we reach Pornmhach, a mo de
lightful village, ituated very near the banks of the Alma,- which
river attended us for thee three la days journey, not far from
our right hand', under the adjoining hills. His Excellency was
here met and complimented by general Rahutin from Hermanaolt,
who came accompanied with Count Sena, the Emperor's chief
commiary in Tranylvania, and two other ocers of the imperial
army. The General returned before diner, and left my Lord
well accommodated in a pleaant country houe of Prince
Aha ; whoe barnes, and magazines of grain, with the adjoin
ing h this
viewed ponds, and rich meadows,
afternoonwith that urround the farm,
great pleaure. ct we

*MAY Xiv.
We leave Pornmhac/e, and are preently, after upoii the banks of
the Alma, over which river his Excellency's whole ba ggage, with the
hores," coaches, waggons, and other necearies, were tranported
upon at bottomed boats; We proceed one Hungarian mile from
our coneick, and then his Excellency is again met by general Ra
A a * htttlin,
90 'A JOURN-EY om ADRIANOPLE
hutln, and everal ocers of the army, together with a train of
ive hundred perons, coniing of two troops of hore with the
magirates and chief citizens of Hermanadt. After mutual com
pliments, my Lord takes his place in the General's coach, and o
they both ride together another Hungarian mile to Hermanadt,
attended with a numerous retinue of guards and citizens into the
town, where the canons continually kept ring, and the inhabi
tants received them in arms. There his Excellency being r
lodged in a large and convenient houe in the market place, very
near the palace of the General, about one a clock was conducted
thither to diner, where a umptuous fea was prepared at two
tables. At the ir at his Excellency with his retinue, general
Rahutin, his Lady, the Princes of Holein, with the Countees
Seau, Bethlen, Mihes, and ome others; as alo the Counts Seau,
Bethlen, Add-es, Stanville of Lorrain, Coa of Piedmont, Montti
cellti, and Commiary Belle', After diner his Excellency returned
to his lodging, where he was now attended by Count Both/en,
inead of Count Mzihes, who was appointed to conduct him from
Hermanadt as far as Clauenhurg, In the evening the General,
complimented his Excellency with the command of the garrion,
during his ay in this place; and thereupon preed him four dif
ferent times to give the watch word, which nevertheles he
peremptorily declined. *

MAY x'v.
Hrs Excellency aid this and the following day at Hermanadt,
together with his retinue ; where he continued to be treated in
the ame gentile manner by the General.

M A Y xvii.
THIS being Sunday, we had divine ervice and a ermon at his
Excellency's lodgings, and then dined again with the General.
And in the evening I was favoured by my landlord, Mr. George
Rezner, enator of the city (an ingenious and learned peron, who
had udied ten years in Holland) with his coach and company to
viit his garden, beyond the walls and mote of the city ; near to
which adjoins a famous large and intire crucix cut in one,
much adored by the papis of this country. The ame gentle
man gave me notice of three. Roman incriptions which, as I was
informed,
 to HoLLAND, and thence to ENGLAND. 9r
informed, had been brought from Ulpia Trajana. The r was
upon a one con in the market place, of which the following
is a copy.
T. VAREN. T. F. PAP. SABINIANO EAR.
FLAM. LIXRENTINO ITEM FLAM.
COL. SARMIZ. DEC. COL. SAR. ET APVL.
E. M. V. OMNIB. EBCESTRIB. MILlT. PERFV\C,
CORNEL. LVCILLA CONIVX PILA EXTRVC
TA. SARCOFAGVM IN QYO XXRENIA
PROBINAQVE SABINIANI SOROR CNDITA
ERAT ETIAM EIVS CRPORE CNLOCA
TO SVPERPOSVIT'.

The others were in 'the houe of General Rahutin, upon the bae'
of two pillars, as I have here given them.
I. o. M. I. o. M'.
M. ROMAN c. SEMPRONIVS
vs INCOL VRBANVS
_ PVS PROC. <r>. AVG =.
EX VoT'oi

THE ame gentleman hewed me alo the cathedral church of

this place, entertained me with the muic of the organ, and pre
ented me
nic'zis. with aon
Another book
thecalled
ame Breoiculus de nationihus
ubject was given meTranylva
the day
before by the rector cholae Cihint'enis, which place with the
. adjoining
viit to the library
revere'ndI then viited.
Iaacus Thisprimarius
Zahanius, nightl likewie returned a
paor Czihz'nienis,
et eccleiae cathedralz's decanus, by 'whom and his wife I was
kindly entertained
wer, which above three
he had formerly hours. Campt'anzi
compiled,to He then gave me an
Rationes An
decem.

M A Y xviii.
BY ix this morning his Excellency and retinue leaving Her-man
adt were attended by the General, and gentlemen above men
tioned, beyond the adjoining river, after which 'they all took a cor
dial leave ; epecially lieutenant colonel Graven, to whom his Ex
' This incription was r publihed by 1 It is probable thee ones might all
Reimas, Cla. vi. n. 90. and from him come from Ulpia Trajana, formerly called
by Sponius, Mcell. erud. antt'q. p. 294. Sarmazegethua, concerning which ee Za
But both of them vary omewhat from the moius, in Analect. Antiq. Tranyl. c. 4.
reading here given.
3 cellency
92. A JOURNEY ain ADRIANOPLE
cellency preented a diamond ring. We now proceed in our way,
at which time I received an obliging letter from Mr. Duner,
with an account of my ucceor's arrival at Smyrna upon the
eventeenth of Aprt'l.
HERMANSTADT is a fair city, coniing of well proportioned
houes, regularly plaiered and covered with brick; and is in
compaed with an intire brick wall, and that again with the water
either of a mote, or river, which urrounds it. Over the'gate, by
which we entered, is the atue of Hermannns, the founder of the
place. It is deigned to beyet farther fortied by the Germans;
for which end they are now marking out the place of a citadel,
which they propoe to build o rong and regular, as thereby to
cutb not only this city, but the whole province. It is intirely in
habited by Saxons, and conequently by profeors of the Lutheran
or Auguan confeon. They have here three churches, of which
the cathedral is large and well adorned. The General, and Ger
man garrion, which now conis of twelve hundred men, as like
wife a few other papis, are fain to be contented with a private
chapel. General Rahutin is a comely, courteous, 'and facetious
gentleman, of evere dicipline, and prudent management of the
Imperial oldiery, which thro this whole province, toithe number
of about ten thouand men, 'is committed to his charge;" He is
of French extraction, and was vforced to fly while young, on ac
count of a duel, from his native country to the 'court of Vienna;
where after long ervice he at length obtained favour of the Prin
ces of Hol/i'ein then wife to Chancellor Sz'nenelw, who after that
miniefs death condecended to marry him, and o raied him to
his preent
of the j'iidexpitch of fortune.
Cihzint'enis, Thejuridiction
whoe civil government
reaches isnot
in the
onlyhands
over
this city, but even the whole Saxon dirict. Next to him is the
Conul Cihinienir, whoe government is conned within the city.
And beides thee there is a enate of about ixteen, and then a
commonalty of about an hundred men. 'The place in Latin is
called Ct'htininm, from the adjoining river Clhln. *

BEFORE eleven a clock we again take up our quarters'a't V

ahna, that is, Saltzhnrg, o called from the alt mines; which I
viited this afternoon, in company with the minier of the place,
Joannes Nagy Boronyai of the Helvetian confeon. The alt is
here dug, and cut into ones (as they call them) of a quare
gure, and aboutan hundredpound in weight. Being o prepared in
the
 to HOLLAND, and thence to ENGLAND. 93
vthe cavern, which at the bottom extends itelf very wide in the
manner of a dome, they are drawn up by cables, of which
one winds round an adjoining machine drawn by four hores, and
the other uuwinds at the ame time. The pit itelf is quare, lined
within with planks, as, far as the earthy oil reaches, and extend
ing afterwards to the depth of about an hundred yards. Thee
ones are afterwards laid up in magazines, to be tranported
on occaion by the Maros into the Danuhe, and thence vended
into Turkey or Germany for the ue of the Emperor, who is the
ole proprietor of all the natural mines, with which this province
abounds. The above mentioned minier here gave me ome
gemmae alis, as pellucid as ordinary cryal. He is a man well
learned, and has traveled into many countries, particularly Eng
land. At the ame place I likewie received a preent of ome
pecimina metal/ice', namely gold, Cinnabar, antimony, and others;
which were ent me by a gentleman, named Samuel Koloeri, the
Emperor's general inpector of the Tranylvanian mines.

MAY xix.
Wa depart hence for Tanad, and arrive there before twelve a
clock; from whence his Excellency deigning for Enyed by the
way of Balasfalva, Mr. Montague, Mr. Gangain, and myelf
take this opportunity of eping out of the way to ee Alha Julia,
or Wienhurg. We therefore hire a po calah by ive a clock
in the afternoon, and it being diant three long Hungarian miles
in dirty way, we carce arrive there by twelve at night, having
near the city croed the Mauruius over a wooden bridge. In our
way thither we aw a gang of Zingans, or gypes, common in this
and the neighbouring provinces, as well as Turkey.

MAY xx.
Hrs Excellency continued his journey this day to Balasfaloa;
and in_the morning we at hha Julia wait on the governor, Count
Banjcta worthy and courteous proteant nobleman, but for many
years weakened and tormented with the colic. We were con
ducted to him thro the room, where the comitia totius Tranylva
niae are now held; and where Count Seau, commiary for his
Imperial Majey, olicites the ates for raiing of ubidies, and
propoes other orders to them from the co_u\rt of Vienna. This
Bb done,
 94. A JOURNEY from ADRIANOPLE
done, we viit likewie Count Seau; who was o complaiant as to
hew us the cale where he dwells, being a magnicent palace,
and lately the reidence of the princes of Tranylvania. At the
ame time we viewed the large Calvini church adjoining there
to, which is a lofty and ately fabric, but has uered much from
the Tartars, who defaced the fair monuments, and burnt the tower,
in the year ixteen hundred and fty eight. It is now fortied
with a ditch and rampart, which is likewie uual all over Tran
ylvania. The above mentioned monuments are of Joannes Cor
tuinus, commonly called Hunz'ades; of O\ueen Iahella, and her
on Ladaus; of Sz'gz'mund, and George Ragotzi, together with
the famous Gahrz'el Bethlen. The ame morning we paid a viit
to the bihop of the reformed church in Tranylvania, who reides
here, and is likewie paor of the place, by name Stephanus Ve
preni. He is an old man, eems decayed in his parts, and is
troubled with a paly in his tongue. With him we aw the pro
feor of the Schola Alhenis, which in the year ixteen hundred
eventy two was tranlated hither from Patah in Hungary. He is
a learned, curious, and laborious man, teaches divinity, natural
Philoophy, the tongues, and mathematics; has traveled into Eng
land and other countries, and is a great admirer of the Englih;
for which reaon his udy is full of our books, and he both writes,
and peaks, and even teaches our language once a week to his
cholars. His name is Kapoi Samuel, and was made S. Theolo
gz'ae Doclor by a diploma from the Prince of Orange. Thee vi
1ts performed, we repair to Count Banti's to diner, where we
were honoured with a plendid fea ; the governor keeping his
chamber. There at at table the Lady governes, who is of the
family of Bethlen, with Countes Bethlen Samuel, Count Bethlen
Nicolas chancellor of the ates of Tranylvania, Count Apo'r trea
urer, Count
gether Holler7'elchzi,
with Count preident of the
Joannes ates
Sachs the(the tworegt'us
Judex la papis) to
Czihtinienis,
with Count Seau, and ome others. After diner we pent ome
time with Profeor Kapr, and at night upped with Count Seau.

MA Y jxxi.
HIS Excellency aid this whole day at Balasfal'va; and we the
morning at Alha Julia, which was antiently called Apulum ',
I Ovid. ad Liviam, it. 387. Apulus, huic hoi per breve Pontus iter.
Danuhiuque rapax, et Darius orhe remote
where
 to HOLLAND, and thence to ENGLAND. 9'5
where we imployed ourelves in viewing ome Roman culptures,
and copying the three following incriptions.
I. O. M. ET DIIS PRO SALVTE DO
PENATIBVS MINI NOSTRI
'SCAVRIANVS SANCTlSSIMI AN
TONINI PII AVGVS
MINERVAE TIB. TI NYMPHIS NOVIS *
JVLIVS NOVIA SACRVM RVFRI
NVS Il . . . LEG. VS 1 SVLPICIA.. .
POSVIT LEG.
ANIO XIII. G

At midday we dined with Count Seau, and by two a clock taking

leave of the governor, we et forward in a calah for Enyedz, two
Hungarian miles diant from hence, where we arrived before iz
ven, the road lying allthe way near the banks of the Mauruius.

M A Y xxii.
We take a calah this morning, and proceed about an hour
from Enyed to meet his Excellency, at the place where he croed
the Mauruius by at boats; which done, we wait on him back to
Enyea', and there arrive about one a clock. After dinerI viited
the chool and college of this place, which is reputed the mo
ourihing of thoe, that belong to the reformed Calvini church
in Tranylvania. It has three profeors, one of Philoophy, &e
phanus Kolovari, who has traveled into England; another of di
vinity, Stephanus Engedr', a learned man, who gave me a PoPih
book, concerning the Emperor's treatment of the reformed churches
in Hungary; and a third of the Greek tongue, logic, and hiory,
Fr. Partiz-Papa, a Phyician, who preented me with ome Printed
tracts of his own, and a manucript lttinerary of Dr. Baire prehen
dary of Durham, left by him in Alha Julia, where he profeed
divinity during the late uurpation in England.
- } Sabina, NOVA CERES; et Julia Pia, ylv. proulegiturRvrrmvs, ed reclamantc
NOVAVBSTA: Bonarot. Oherv. p. 4. NYM- lapide.
PnAAvovsTAz,Spon,Reehereh.d'Antiq. I In Latin Enyedinum, or Aniadinum,
Di xxix. p. 481. Saxopol. inDacia, NYM- from the 'uia Annia, mentioned in an in
Pms SALVTIFBRlS SACRVM. cnption in Zamoius, e. v.
' In libello incript. Analecta lap. Tran

MAY
 96 AJOURNEY from ADRIANOPLE

M A Y xxiii.
WE proceed three Hungarian miles from Enyed to Tberda,
where we arrive about one a clock, and nd it a dirty ill built
town, but remarkable for its alt pits. It has two Calvini
churches, with one appropriated to the Unitarians. The town
ands upon the Arcmyas, antiently the Cbryalas, in which the
Zingam nd gold du, principally after rain.

M A Y xxiv.
IT being Whitunday, his Excellency halted this day, and in
his lodgings had divine ervice and a ermon. After diner we
viit the alt pits, which altogether reemble thoe of Viakna, 'ex
cept that the alt eems fomewhat clearer and ronger. Returning
we nd the following Roman incription.
ISIDI
ET SERAPI
C. IVL. ANN
ISONVS . . .
LEG. V. M. HO.
* ET FL. APO
LINARIA . . .
EIVS V. L. S

M A Y xxv;
WE proceed three Hungarian miles to Clauenburg, the Zeugma
of the antients,Here
iclaud'ziapolzis. by the Hungarians
Governor Banzi called
met myKoIo/bar, anda mile
Lord half in Latin
out
of the town, and treated him at diner; after which taking leave,
he preented him with a et of ix ne coach hores. It is a air
city with a broad and raight reet; but ill retains on the houes
'and churches the marks of a dreadful ire, which about ve years
ince almo entirely conumed it. It is eated upon the r branch
o the river Samos, and is entirely urrounded with an antient
thick wall, on the inide owhich I was hewn the two following in
criptions, the latter whereof has the characters beautifully cut.

5 FORTVNAE
 to HoLLAND, 'and thence to ENGLAND. 97
FORTVNAE AVG.
VL P. M A s c v
LINVS V'E. EX
SIGNIF. LEG. V.M.
'E EC. COL. AP. PRO'
SA. svA. rg. SVOR. E

D. M.
M.AVREL...PAPIA..AVG.COL.N.AP'.
VIXIT ANNIS LX
AVRELIA BONA CONIVX MA
RITO ER. H. CIENO VM f CV
RAVIT

THE Unitarians, who are one of the ects received in Tranyle

vania, have here eablihed their principal eat. I convered with
one of them, Stephanus Stanizlo, profeor of Philoophy, with
whoml viited their plehanus, or chief paor, and aw their church
and college. l likewie viited the Calvini paor, as alo their
church and college, where l aw M B. Nemethi their Profeor
of Philoophy, t am. Nemethi the divinity profeffor being abent.
In everal public places of the city I oberved antient dates of time,
particularly over one of the gates, where the year was marked,
with thee characters, lzzAA, that is r477; and over the Uni
tarian college thus, l SZAG, which is I476 3. Here Count
'Bethlen's Commiion ending, his Excellency is provided for by
Baron Veel/nt.

M A Y xxvi.
WE ay this day at Clauenhurg. The next we proceed two
Hungarian miles to Era'icureu'r, wherel lodge in a poor Valach
houe. And the day following we make the like progres thro
woods and narrow vales to Balahaza, upon the river Alma/oh.

M A Y xxix.
Two more Hungarian miles thro the like way bring us to Zz'lah,
a reformed Calvini village, wherel viited the chief paor, Ste
phanus Foris Dehreezeni. Within half an hour of this place we
' Forte COLON. AP. ut in Zamoii Ineript. I/Fenna, near Porta Rubra; where I took
cap. 7. coL.Ar>vr..et coLoNlAF- APVLENSIS- notice of the following date, [52 LlA,
* Force CENOTAPHlVM. h. h . d h ct . 6
7 The like cyphers I afterwards aw at w m m our me er" c am ers 15 14 7'

C-c paed
98 A JOURNEY ain ADRIANOPLE
paed certain mountains very woody, but not exceeding high,
which part Tranylvania from Hungar ; after which we now en
ter into thoe parts of Hungary, whic lately gave part of his title
to the prince of Tranylvania.

MA Y XXXi.
PASSING two Hungarian miles thro a country more open and
well improved, we arrive at Somlyo; in which there is an old palace,
once a eat of reidence for the kings of Hungary. Here the guards
and commiary is again changed, Hanct'cus Trantzeni, an Hun
garian gentleman, now taking that'charge. As we continued in
this town the following day, I had an opportunity of convering
with the minier, whoe name is Zowiny.

JUNE i.
Ws et forward three Hungarian miles to Margarita, and in
'the way cros the Krahza, near which are the limits that termi
nate the parts of Hungary. The oil is here luxuriantly rich,
well varied with paure and intervening woods, and everywhere
adorned with damak roes, growing wild on hort hrubs. Part
of my time was here employed in dicouring with the minier,
j'ohannes Banht. But having now paed thro Tranylvania, as
well as the parts of Hungary ubject to the ame government, it is.
here proper to recollect ome general Obervations relating to this
province.

, TRANSYLVANIA, which for many years had been tributary to

the Turks, and conequently under the protection of that empire,
which ill allowed them the choice and government of their own
princes, was in the year x687, under the conduct of the Duke of
Lorrain, ubjected to the arms of the Emperor; and thereupon by
capitulation they reigned themelves to the Germans, under whom
they have ince continued, tho as yet the Emperor has aumed
no diinct title from thence. He has ordinarily in garrion here
"about twelve regiments, which ince the peace ofCar/ow/tz erve
'rather to curb the inhabitants, than to awe the neighbouring Turk.
_To this end they are now preparing a rong citadel in Herman
iaa't, and deigning others in proper places, on pretence of charges
due to thee orts and. the anding militia. The Emperor ex
e _ 4. acts
 wT,_ '-_ 4

to HOLLAND, and theme taENGLAND. 99 ct

acts four
ing yearly evere
times taXes,
more thanofwas
which they by
exacted generally complain,
the Turk. as be o
For where-

as they then paid the yearly tribute and exaction of about two
hundred thouand oreni R/aenenhs, there is this year particularly
demanded from them, in the preent aembly of the government
at Alba Julia, the um of one million forty thouand ix hundred,
which is charged for the following particulars. The
Quantum militare, ---- 7 5o,ooo.
Ad ormlitia, ---- 1oo,ooo.
Debitum principis Dura ', -- 6 5,6oo.
Bomcatimes aperoneratis, --- 6o,ooo.
dalarium camellariae, 1 5,ooo.
Inevitabz/cs extraordmariae expenae 50,ooo.
Thee ubidies are demanded at the aembly in the Emperor's
name, by his commiary, Count Sena; and the care of levyin
and raiing it is incumbent on the governor, the chancellor, the
treaurers, the aores zabulae regiae, with other ocers and
members of the aembly. Thus the civil government o the pro
vince is committed to the Tranylvanian nobility, diinguihed by
the ocers abovementioned; but the military government is in
the hands of General Rabutin, who holds the province to a rigid
and exact obedience.

_ TRANSYLVANIA is in the hands of three diinct people. Fir

the J'zekeli, which are otherwie corruptly wrote Sciculi, Siculi,
X or Scytuli '. The econd are the Saxones. And the third are the
I-Izmgarzi. The r and third o thee peak the ame Hungarian
language, and are Hunm of the ame original, only ettled in this
country at dierent times. The Saxon; peak intirely the Ger
man Saxon language, from which nation they are a colony, and
ettled here under Gay/a the econd King o Hungary.

THBY have each of them their diinct laws, cuoms, and privi
leges, and are everally divided after this manner. Fir the szeleli
into even zeks, namely z Meras-zelz, Udoarbel-izek, Harow-fact,
" His deigned ranoma after his death in a Concerning the antient characters of the
'Poland,- wasunjuly detained in this pro- Siculians, and their manner of writing
vi A; .\ .\\ ._ downwards like the Sinee, ee-Za'mz c. 3.
' ' ' Lo s. X
&9. sly-A
A\lK Cl\\)
t- T\;//
-_.'
.. - .
 roo A JOURN EY- ain ADRI'ANOPLE
Kecli Orha ti'epizfzeh, Cih-zeh, Gyorgy-ze'h, and rangus-zeh.
'Over each of thee eats preide o many captains; and being a
warlike robu people, ill retaining the ferity of the Scythians,
of which the whole body of the Hunni was at r a colony, they
have been always exempted from taxes and duties to the govern
ment, except only the ervice of war upon occaion under their
repective captains. But of late the Emperor has peruaded them to
ubmit to the like taxes and duties, with all other his Tranylvanian
ubjects. On account of their not holding their lands of the go
vernment, there is a peculiar cuom obtaining among them, that
in defect of heirs their eate echeats not to the government, but
to the next neighbour.

THE Saxons have in like manner their even feats alloted from
their r ertlement, namely : Szerdahy-zeh, Szehen-zeh, Bra/l
oy-ze'h, Medyes-zcih, Segy'oar-ze'h, Beereze-zeh, and Erdo
violet-feet. Each of thee feats have their capital city, called Re
gia et Izhera cz'tn'tas. Over this city, and the eat or dirict be
longing to it, preides a judex regz'us, called in their language,
honings rzichter. But the authority and prerogative of the judex
Cz'hinienis, that is of Hermanadt, extends itelf over the everal
Saxon feats; except that he of Brczow or Cronadt pretends in
many caes an exemption, which has been allowed, becaue of its
too great diance from the tribunal of Szehen, or Hermanadt.
Beides the authority of this judge, there is a ubordinate govern
ment in each city by a enate, which ordinarily conis of about
ixteen, and a centumvirate or commonalty, tho it eldom contains
a complete hundred. Each in their everal diricts have the jus
gladii, and all other prerogatives of an intire juridiction.

THE third and richer part of Tranylvania, poeed by the

Hungarians, is uppoed and called the eat of the only Tranyl
vanian nobility ; and accordingly it is divided into even comz'tatus,
or reidences, of its everal courts, namely: The comzitatus Hu
jadeuis, Alhenis, Thorden/zs, Clauclz'opolzitanus, Interior et Exte
rior Zolnohienis, Dohoczen/zis, and Kranaienis. Now each of
thee counties has four comztes, of which two are called upremzi,
and two ineriores; in whoe hands, together with other nobles un
der them, remain the whole juridiction and poeion of their
repective counties ; the other inhabitants being not only tenants,
but ubjects, as they call them, and in ome manner laves to their
repective
 to HOLLAND, ondthenee toENGLAND. ror
repective nobles, to whom they ordinarily owe the work of three,
and ometimes of more days in the week.

Baswns thee, the Valachi are every where in great num

bers intermixted among the Tranylvanian nations, but have no
juridiction or dominion of their own ; and therefore they remain
as nourihers of cattle, and in that ervice flaves and ubjects to the
re. And not only Valachs ', but likewie (tho in leer numbers)
there are found up and down in Tranylvania, Racians, Muco
vites, Armenians, Jews, and others.

THOSE called the received religions in Tranylvania, that is,

thoe who above the pace of an age have obtained the protection
of their princes under oath, and of the Emperor under articles
upon their late ubjection, are four; the Roman Catholic; the
Lutheran ,- the Calvini, which is here called peculiarly the Re
formed; and the Unitarian. The r of thee is more frequent
in Szehulia, but yet not o prevalent as to poes even a tenth part
ofall Tranylvania. The econd, or Lutheran, is common to all the
Saxon nation in this province. The third flourihes in Szehulia,
and the comtitatus Hungarici. The fourth prevails here and there
likewie in the ame countries, but thoe who profes it are not o
numerous in either. However they have a ourihing college at
Clauenherg, together with a large church; tho neither for beauty,
nor the number of its communicants, equal to that of the Cal
vini confeion. Thee everal religious are well known, and
diinguihed by their faith and principles, all over Europe. I hall
therefore only ay this concerning the dicipline of the three la,
that their everal parihes collected into diinct diocees are ubject
to their repective eniors; and thee eniors, in their order, are
likewie ubject to a provincial bihop, who has his court, in which
he judges matrimonial and other piritual caues, and has alo the
ole power of ordaining, as likewie of calling and preiding over
their yearly ynod. And to this ynod there is adjoined a coni
ory, which is in the nature of an upper houe, and a council to
the bihop.

THE Lutheran churches are in many places plendid, adorned

with organs and pictures, and little diering from the form of our
' So great is the averion of' thee Valarhr taken by General Rohutin, they oered him
to the killing of Calves, that to redeem one the choice of all their children.
Dd larger
 102. AJOURNEY 0mADR1ANoPLE
larger churches, except that the altar is immoveable, and built
of one, and ometimes too profuely painted. Their worhip
conis of forms of prayers, then hymns, after thee leons and
ermons, and laly prayers and concluding hymns. The worhip
of the Unitarians exactly correponds with that of the Calvinis.
Thee latter have ermons twice a week, beides Sundays, as alo
morning and evening ervice throughout the week, at which ap
pear large and devout congregations in many places. Their fers
vice is a metre palm, a prayer from the pulpit, and then con
cludes with another palm, They have a form of prayer, and an
injunction of their bihop to make ue of no other; but the Cuom
ofmo miniers has introduced the ue of their own premeditated
devotions, and accordingly the people begin to dieeem thoe,
who conne themelves to the form. The Lutherans, Calvinis,
and Unitarians live peaceably with one another ; but are not ad
mitted to' each others communion of Chri's body, without a
pecial declaration of conformity. The Lutherans in ome places
conecrate a wafer, and in other places leaven bread. They like
wie have auricular confeiion, but abue it not, as the Papis.
Their main dierence from the Calvinis conis in their avowed
corporeal ubiquitarian preence. Among other known tenets of
the Unitarians, by which they take away the force of the Chri
ian acraments, tho they generally ue infant baptim not to give
candal to the Calvinis, yet they rather wih to delay it till the
age of twelve years or upwards, and often practice accordingly.

THESE three proteant religions remain as yet in the undi

urbed profeon of their faith. But upon everal late encroach
ments of the Jeuits, and other pries, in condence of the popih
government, to which they are ubject; upon the withdrawing of
the tithes uually paid to the proteant miniers from the alt
mines, and now given to popih monks ; and laly upon the care,
which is taken by the court of Vienna, to upply all oces of the
province with papi miniers : upon thee everal accounts, I ay,
the whole reformed people of Tranylvania, epecially the Calvi
nis, begin to be under great apprehenions, and from the gover
nor to the meane gentleman, earnely embraced this occaion of
recommending their caue to the good ervices of his Excellency at
the Imperial court; after which they implored the prayers and
good wihes of the church of England, and in many places took
a olemn melancholy leave of us, as if they were ju enteringupon
a martyrdom. I THE
 to HoLLAND, and thence toENGLAND. Io3
THE religion of the Valachs, Mucovites, Armenians, Racians,
and others, is that of their repective nations in their proper eats
and countries. And it may be farther noted in relation to the
religion of Tranylvania, that as in Hungary, o here likewie, the
Jeuits, who were before excluded by a poitive article, have now
an expres liberty of entering and etling in this province. Nor
can I omit to remark the great and blameable facility both of the
Calvinis, and Lutherans, in matters of divorce.

AFTER the religion of Tranylvania, the natural oil of the

country falls under conideration; which is luxuriantly rich, well
cultivated, full of inhabitants, and conveniently diinguihed with
a ucient quantity of wood, hills, and water. The urface of
the earth is almo every where black, without the lea one to
oberved in many places; and in everal tracts o fertile, as not to
require the advantage of dung, except only ome parts of Sziculia
where it is ued. Beides all kinds of grain, which grow on the
urface of the earth, within it abounds with veins of metals, mi
nerals, and foils of all orts, particularly of gold; o that, as I
was informed by the Emperor's inpector of his mines, there was
la year dug here to the value of twenty ve thouand zechins.
But among other foiils the native Cinnabar is mo rare, and the
quickilver which is here found to perfection. Salt is dug in e
veral places, in the manner decribed above ' ,- by which a large
revenue accrues to the Emperor, to whom the property of all
mines belongs. But in the mean time the people uer in the price
of this commodity ; for ince their late ubjection to the Emperor,
a one of alt weighing about an hundred pounds can carce be
bought for three florins, whereas heretofore three ones of alt
were old for one orin. The money current in Tranylvania is
that of the Emperor, the quarts-'of Poland, with ome other coins.
The reports related by ome, who were eye witnees, concerning
divere particles of gold found in the products of their vineyards,
both here and about the celebrated mountain of Toha'zi, are very
remarkable; of which I hall only mention thee following. A
piece of gold is aid to have grown to a vine, inead of the green
tendrel, by which it takes hold of the adjoining trees, or other
ubance that upports it. Pure gold was found in a grape, in
ead of its ordinary natural one. Small gold drops were oberved
_* See pag. 92.
to
104 A JOURNEY from ADRIANOPLE
to adhere to the Ikin of a grape. And even an intire grape had
been een to coni of a perfect coat of gold.

As to the temper and dipoition of the inhabitants, they appear

cordial and hopitable, drink almo continually, and eat plentifully,
are unpolite but importunate in their civility, and even the vulgar
ort uually peak Latin,- they are of a robu Conitution, and prin
cipally the .i'iculians, who have likewie a ierce and ately mein.
Their habit is a hort waicoat made very cloe to the body 1, and
fleeves with flaps to them, that come over the backs of their hands.
Their breeches are likewie cloe to their thighs, and from thence
continued down in the form of a ocking to their feet. But on
their legs they commonly wear yellow or red boots, to which are
conantly xed purs, often three inches long. Over their wa
coat, when they go abroad, they throw a looe but hort fur ve,
which is either embroidered, or adorned with ilver loops, on each
ide before. The habit of the women, who for the mo part are
beautiful and courteous, is a cloe narrow bodice, and from thence
petticoats, as uual with us in England; but over their arms they
wear looe linen leeves, reembling thoe of a bihop's rochet.
Their head dres is low, and among thoe of the better ort richly
adorned with pretious ones; much reembling ome old Englih
pictures, particularly thoe of Henry the eighth's wives. They
likewie wear over their houlders the ame ort of fur ve, as the
men; but the inferior ort are uually dre, when abroad, in a long
and looe black mantle, reaching from their houlders down to
the ground, and all round gathered into deep and numberles
folds, not unlike the gowns worn by the illanders in the Archi
pelago. Maids likewie wear a black ring of velvet on their head,
which they call a crown, and reembles the gure of an hat with
out brims. With regard to matrons, their law formerly admitted
no proof of adultery, unles under the eye witnes of twenty four
Perons at lea; which in a virtuous age was an egregious tei
mony to the chaity of their women, but in a vitious one mu
needs prove too great an encouragment to that heinous in. The
Hungarians and Siculians have an odd fahion of having their head
round the lower part, and leaving the hair at the top, which af
wards they tie into a knot, and let it hang over one or other of
their temples. This cuom they might poibly have received of
1 Ve/ie non uitante, edricto, et in- Germanorum, cap. xvii.
gular arms expnmente. Tacltus De moribus -
old
 to HOLLAND, ana' tbeace to ENGLAND. 105
old from the Sicambrians (who once built the city Sicambria, and
ettled a colony there) ince they were antiently famed for the like
manner of knotting 'of their hair r. We may further oberve a
certain infelicity of Tranylvania, as well as the adjoining parts
of Hungary, in peruading themelves at lea, that they are in
feed with witchcraft. For women of all ages are yearly executed
for that crime, and this commonly upon evidence of their having
threatned michief to their neighbours, their children, goods,
cattle, or other eects, and ome correpondent eect, which has
eemed afterwards to happen. ln the Saxon feats of Tranylvania
they often put them to that vulgar trial of water; and l have heard
it avowed by thoe, who have declared themelves to have been
eye witnees, that ome upected perons could never ink below
the urface of the water, when others immediately ubided to the
bottom =. And in uch caes the poor aicted, tortured, and
now perhaps diracted peron, confees the indictment, and then
without the lea repreive is committed to the faggot. But as ig
norant places have been always reputed mo ubject to witchcraft,
this very well uits the ate of Tranylvania; where every petty
dirict is the eat of its own judicature, and the power of life
and death is conequently lodged in illiterate and uperitious
perons.

JUNEiL
BUT it is now time to proceed on our journey, in which one
Hungarian mile and a half carried us to Szekbelybz'd, where his
Excellency lodged in the houe of a popih prelate, by name _70
annes Smitz, of the order of the Praemonratenhr, a gentile and
agreable peron. In his parlour, where he had an altar and crul
cifix, Ioberved over the former a profane picture of the Holy
Trinity, repreenting an Old Man, with his Son itting betwixt his
legs, and at the on's feet the Holy Gbo in the hape of a dove.

JuNEia
THREE Hungarian miles and a half farther brought us this day
to Debrecyn, thro a rich oil, not deitute of wood, nor water;
1 So Martial. Spectac. Epigr. 3. 1 This trial of water, as well as that of
Crinibu: in nadum tortis oenere Sicambrz'. re, is authorized by the laws of Ladiaus,
And Tacitus ays the like of the Sue-vi, King of Hungary. Dare), s. Ladzat',
De morib. Germ. c. 38. Inigne gentis Lib. ii. cap. 28. ' ' ' " '
abliguare crinem, nodoque rbringere. Ee ct the
106 A JOURNEY from ADRIANOPLE
the latter of which is plentifully found in this countrey, as alo in
Tranylvania and Valachia, by reaon of _its frequent and extend
ed lakes ; tho fountains are carce any where to be oberved. '1 his
city has lately obtained the privilege of being lihera et regia from
the Emperor, in conideration of its late grievous opprellions be
tween the Turkih and German forces; ince which, like other
free Cities, it is governed by its own judge, enate, and commo
nalty. It is large and populous, and ets up for the bulwark of
the reformed church in Hungary; which character it maintains
by its large and well diciplined college of almo two hundred
udents, under the care of two eminent profeors ; one of divi
nity, named yohannes Koes, who is likewie bilhop or uperinten
dent of the province; and the other of Philoophy, whoe name
is Mzichael Vaa'ri. As this college is kept in good repair, o the
udents are allowed their conant diet, and the profeors receive
their alary, at the ole charge of the city. There are likewie two
patious churches, erved by three able and learned paors, 'Tho
mas Verehdgyhazi, Michael Rapoti, and Stephanus Patai. The
city is likewie furnihed at the public charge with a capacious and
well ored dipenary.

BEFORE his Excellency approached this place, he was compli

mented by everal meengers from the mayor, who commands the
militia here, then by the judge, enators, and others; and at length
by the bihop, profeors, paors, and cholars. With this retinue his
Excellency entered the city, which was orderly lined with arms
as far as his lodgings. Thee were appointed for him in the houe
of one Stephanus Dohozi, a rich, generous, and learned gentle
man; awho
print new'among
verion other
of thepublic deignsBzihle,
Hungarian is nowtoundertaking to
be diributed
among the reformed Chriians of that kingdom.

JUNE iV.
THIS being Corpus Chri) day, his Excellency continued at
Dehrecyn; at which time I took the opportunity of viiting the
bihop, profeors, and paors of the town, the r of whom
preented me with an handkerchief of the Hungarian fahion. I
was introduced to them by one Paul Gyongyo', who met us in
this placefrom a neighbouring cure. He had lately traveled into
England, and reided ometime in Gloce/Ier Hall, Oxford, where
2. he
 to HoLLAND, and thence to ENGLAND. ro7
he was known to my brother of dear memory. But in his return
home thro Vtienna his books were eized, to the value of ive hun
dred orins, by Cardinal Colonicza, archbifhop of Strt'gomium;
on which account he now olicited the favour and intere of his
Excellency. He preented me with the Canones Eccleiae Reor
matae Hungariae.

JUNE v.
THIS morning the judge and magirates of Dehrecyn preent
ed his Excellency with a gentile word, and two mall Veels of
the be Tohrli wine. And after traveling one Hungarian mile and
a half thro a dead extended plain, void of tree or hrub, we came
to llj'oaror. HereI r took notice of the Hungarian heep, which
are diinguihed from mo others by their horns, which are long,
raight, and twied ; alo by their wool, which is exceeding coarc.

JUNE vi.
THREE Hungarian miles thro the ame level and naked plain
brought us this day to Cege, which is a pas over the Tihticus. ln
- bur way hither we had in view on the right hand, at the diance
of about five miles, the celebrated mountain of Toha'i, in compas
about ten Hungarian miles, and renowned for its generous wines.
At the aforeaid Chge we ferry over the ht'cus in two large at
bottomed boats, thence we travel for ome time with the river on
our right hand, and then rike into the plain to Czt, a large
village about one Hungarian mile from C'ege, where we fix our
quarters.

J U N E vii.
HIS Excellency ayed this day at Cat, at which time I had
ome converation with the minier, Stephanus Szira'h, formerly a
traveler in England. Here I took notice of the fair, white, and
ately cattle of Hungary; and walked in the feilds, to enjoy a more
diinct propect'of 'the mountain Tokdi.

JUN E viii.
WE proceed one Hungarian mile and a half thro the ame plain
to Prozlo, which is ituated on a large and diffued lake, up
plied
108 A! JOURNEY ow ADRl'ANoPLE
plied by the Ttlicas, into which it empties itelf. In our way hi
ther, we left at a near diance on our right hand the city lgiia,
and the mountains denominated from thence.

JUNE ix.
WE move one Hungarian mile and a half forward in the
ame plain, and at the ame diance from the mountains of flgrt'a,
to /a'ny. Before diner his Excellency with a retinue went an
Englih mile from hence, in order to viit a new country houe and
garden belonging to the worthy General Glyc/oe'herg; who by
donation from the Emperor poees great part of this village, as
likewie of that where we lodged la night. I had here an occa
ion to oberve the Hungarian houes under ground, having una
wares like to have dropt into a chimney. We took notice like-t
wie of a plica Polonica in- the hair of his Excellency's- landlord;
who told us, that it being once cut off by his wife, he became
perfectly blind for three mouths, and did not recover his ight, till
the plied was grown out and formed again. The ame thing is
common to mo hores in- this country.

JUNE x.
FROM Ala'ny we go on this" day two Hungarian miles to
Arol-zallor, thro the ame plain, the oil of which is as black as
coal, and in mo places overrun with weeds and marfhes for want
of tillage. ln the midway we cros the mall river Bat/9, by which
is a pohoue of the ame name. Arolzaller is a popih village,
the r of that ort we had een in Hungary. lt belongs to the
Prince of Newlarg, Grand Maer of the Teutonic order, who has
bought lately of the Emperor a large compas of ground on both
ides the 'ioicas for a million of orins. From our quarters we
have in view to the right of our road, at the foot of a pleaant
tract of mountains, the city Gyongyo, lately taken from the
Proteants (as they told us at Debrecyn) by the injuries of the Je
uits and other Romanis.

JUNE xi.
WE continue our journey one Hungarian mile to Ham/an, thro
the ame plain, along the fos of an antient Roman camp. The
2. hills
 to HoLLAND, andthence toENGLAND. 109
hills of Gyongyoi are ill at a near diance on our right hand,
in which four Hungarian miles from drohzalles is the famous gold
mine of Kremnytz, with others of ilver, iron, and other miner
als, in the ame neighbourhood. Hatwan was lately a walled
city, and is now inhabited by Romanis, being the property of the
Prince of Solmes, grand maer to the King of theRomans. The
Emperor conantly employs ve hundred labourers in the mines
of Kremnytz, tho of late years they are aid to fail. At Hat
wan, as in all Hungary, I oberved the method of burying their
corn in holes under ground, as Hirtius remarks of the Africans 1.

JUNE xii.
AT Hatwan we immediately cros the mall river Zagywa, and
thence proceed one Hungarian mile and half thro a pleaant va
riety of woods and paures, valleys and hills, to Kerepes; where
at a neat German houe his Excellency aid to breakfa, and
then went forward the ame length of way thro a naked, tho not
o level a plain, to Pe. At his entry here he is aluted by the
canon from the oppoite cale of Buda, and lodged at the Foun
tain inne. Pe is now a mall but compact city, intirely built
out of the ruins, to which it was reduced by the two late ieges of
Buda. Its antient wall, with the battlements and baions, is ill
intire, and incloes it in the gure of an half moon, terminating
on the banks of the Danuhe, which completes the remaining
circuit of the city. There are ill extant three or four minarees
of Turkih moquer, now devoted to Chriian ue. But what gives
ju oence both to Turks and Chriians is a new pillar, erect
ed in the market place, and bearing on its top a large one cul
pture of the Trinity; a gure as common, as it is candalous, in
Germany.

JUN E xiii.
THIs day his Excellency remained here, which gave Mr. Paget
and myelf an opportunity of paing over to Buda on a flying
bridge, which is maintained by the city Pe/Z. The famous city
of Buda is the capital of Hungary, and was the eat of its Kings
till the year fteen hundred twenty nine, when by treachery it fell
1 E in Africa conuetudo incolarum, ut in id propter hella maxime, h'ohiumque uhitum
agris, et in omnihusfere vil1is,uh terrapecus adventum praeparent. De bello Africano,
condendi frumenti gratia clamhaheantzatque cap. 65,
F f into
 s.____1

no A_ JOURNEY from ADRIANOPLE

into the hands of Solymein the Great; ince which it was everal
times attempted by the Chriian arms, but never uccesfully,
till vthe year ixteen hundred ixty eight. And it yet remains in
the ame condition, in which that terrible iege had left it, with
regard to its fortiications; but the private houes, epecially thoe
of the Racz'an and late" Town, are again handomely rebuilt.
That, whichbut
rectinhabited, is called the Upper
not equally withTown, is likewie
the other two. begining to be
The ituation
of the whole city lies in the following manner. From the banks
of the Danuhe, which here runs' N. W. and S, E. there aries a eep
and oblong hill, the length of about half a mile, and the hight
of about two hundred paces, on which ands, what is called the
Upper Town. This on the N. W. end has that famous cale, which
was the palace of the Hungarian Kings; and from thence the walls
and other fortiications are continued round the town. On both
ends of the hill are two mall valleys, each of which has a large
uburb; that on the N. W. end called the Racian, and that on the
S. E the Water Town. The latter of thee is larger, and much
better built ; and extends itelf not only in the valley above men
tioned, but likewie betwixt the Danuhe and a great part of the
* hill, on which
. the wall and Upper Town is built. Ju beyond
the Ractan Town is a eep and harp rocky hill, which in cae
of a iege mucneeds annoy the cale; and along the backide of
' the city wall is extended, at a nearer diance, another riing
ground, which mu likewie gall that ide of the fortication.
Thee therefore the Imperialis mu poes with proper orts,
whenever they undertake to repair the wall and cale of Bua'a;
the preent remains of which were hewn us this morning by the
lieutenant of the ordnance, the mo remarkable whereof were
thee which follow. The hall of the royal palace, in which the
carved windows, chimney pieces, and other decorations, hewed
the work of an excellent hand ; and were embelihed, among other
devies, with the arms ofMatthias Cor-nium. The everal canons,
mortar pieces, bombs, and other artillery, which make the pre
ent ammunition of the cale. The two breaches, one entered
by the Bavarians, and the other by the Imperialis, when they took
the place. The wooden gate, hewn at the bottom by the Im
perialis, which action gave the la rout to the Turks. The one
arched chamber, which they maintained to the la; tho the Ba
varians had been many days lodged in the next adjoining apart
ment, and nothing but a ingle wall remained betwixt the two
- 1 enemies.
 to HOLLAND, aaa'tbeme toENGLAND. III a
enemies. The well and capacious ciern, ucient to afford wa
ter for that numerous Turkih garrion, which at r/conied of
twenty four thouand men. What ele occurs obervable in this
place, is r the propect, which we took from the Water Town
of old Bada, or Sicambria of the Romans, about an Englih mile
from hence, up the ream of the river. And econdly, the fa
mous ulphureous baths, exactly oppoite to the city Pe, which
are upplied by a plentiful hot fountain, that runs from the eep
rocky hill before mentioned in the neighbourhood of the Racian
Town. '

AT midday we were invited to diner by the adminirator, or

chief civil magirate of the place. By his oce he is preident
of the camera Badenis, which conis of twelve ocers, and en
joys great revenues, as well as an entire juridiction for many miles
round the city. His Imperial Majey has about fourteen hundred
men in garrion at Bada and Pa, under General Feer/Joft,
who was now gone to demolih the fortications of Er/a ; it be
ing the Emperor's deign to dive this country of all its leer
forts,_ which at this juncture might be a refuge to any rebellious
ubjects. The whole country of Hungary to this place is a black
and rich oil, without one one to be oberved, except in towns;
and abounds with lakes. The wine of Baala exactly reembles that
of Bourdeaux, and for thee two la years, by an agent of the
Earl of Notting/oam, has began to be imported into England, by
the way of Brcaw.

JUNE xiv.
wasEARLY
again this morning
aluted weguins
by the departoffrom Bade, when
the cale. his Hungarian
Three Excellency

miles thro a rich, woody, and well watered country bring us to

Biehe; a village where the Proteants are mo numerous, but
were nevertheles deprived of the parih church la year by the
Romanis.

JUNE xv.
THREE more Hungarian miles carry us this day to Koes, thro
a continued wood, wherein are obervable many curious trees,
herbs, and owers, particularly the fraxmella; to ay nothing of
the
\
112. A JoURNEY-m ADRIANOPLE
the damalk roes, hyacinths, barbarae, [ilzia convallium, and ome
others, obvious in our whole road thro Hungary.

JUNE xvi.
FROM Koes, where his Excellency lodged the la night, in an
houe of Count Ezer/aazi, Palatin of Hungary, it is one Hun
garian mile to Igmana', at which we arrive by eight a clock this
morning. And one mile from thence toward the right hand we
op to ee the city and fort of Komora. In a po calah we ar
rive on the banks of the Danube by ten a clock, and paing over
in a boat enter the city, which is eated on the point of the iand
Sc/yut, where it is wahed on one ide by the Danube itelf; and
on the other by that branch of it, which takes the name of Wag,
from that river falling into it not far above the city Komora. The
extreme point of this iand is poeed by the cale and fort,
coniing of four baions, and an angle at the farther end, which
repreents the gure of a tortoife. Before the gate and draw
bridge there is a place of arms, and before that another rait forti
cation with two baions and an half moon, added by the
preent Emperor. This was the la bulwark again the Turks,
before the fucces of the la war, and is called the Virgin Fort,
in token of its having never been taken by the enemy. To per
petuate the memory of this, the atue of a virgin is erected in one
angle of that baion, which is on the left hand at the entrance of
the place. After this view of the cale we content ourelves
with a lighter view of the town, which appears neat and corn
pact; and by two a clock return to his Excellency's quarters at
lgmana', the whole way lying over a green, naked, and level plain.
In the cale of Komora I found the three following incriptions,
two of them in Latin, and the third in Greek, which are cut
upon one cons.
D. M.
M. VAL. VALERIANI LEG.
IIlI FL. VIXIT AN. XLII
ET M. VAL. VLPIO PV
BL. FlL. VIXIT AN. VIII SIMV
L CONDITIS VLPIA PARA
TIANE MARITO ET FILIO
ET VLPlA VALERIA FlLIA
HEREDES F. C.
rJ_-H>A N, ,_

to HOLLAND, andctthenc'e to ENGLAND; II;

, D. M. , _
MEMORIAE IVLI _
AE EMERITAE WAE VI
XIT AN-rtt VALERIAMASO
LENlA FILIAE PIISSIMAE
IIAAMTPI ETYTXEI META I'IATPOZ

JUN E xvii.
v OUR. next age, which was three Hungarian miles, brought us'
from Igmand to Rah, thro a level country, and well cultivated.
Half an hour before we enter the town, his Excellency is met by
a troop of Huiars well mounted, and each man carrying a mall
flag in his hand. Rah, which is the proper government of the
Prince of Baclen, is pleaantly eated at the confluence of the rivers
Rah and Rahnitz, which unite near the walls of the cale, and
then in one ream immediately fall into the Danuhe. The cale
is large, and well fortified with even baions, four cavaliers, and
proportionable ou'tworks. It contains within an ample pace of
ground, poeed with houes, and divided into reets, which
make the be part of the city, the re being more cattered and
diffued on both ides of the Rahnitz. It is now about a century,
ince this place was taken from' the Turks by a ratagem ofCount
Schaurtzenhurg, who applying a petard to one of the gates in the
night, at one roke blew open the great iron door, which ew
many paces within the town, and is now kept as a memorial of the
fact in the cathedral church. The Turks marched in the ight of
this garrion to the iege of Vienna, and received everal hot from
thence; and at their return, had the Imperialis of this place
known their defeat, they might have intercepted their paage,
by cutting down the bridges of the Rah.

J U N E xviii. _
HIS Excellency aying this day at Rah, I took the opportu
'nity of viiting StephanurMorai, the reformed minier of the'
place.. And about
Extraordinary ten a with
at Vtienna, clockthe
Mr.young
Stepney,
Earlher Majey's Envoy
of Bridgwater, and
his brother Mr. Egerton, came to Rah to meet my Lord Paget,
and welcome him into thee parts.

(Pa JVNE
114 A JOURNEY from ADRIANOPLE
JUNE xix.
THIS day, thro frequent villages and fruitful feilds, we con
tinue our journey two Hungarian miles to Hangric/o A'Ifcnbarg, a
mall town with fair buildings, encloed with a wall, and eated
on the river Leyza, which at'the diance of half a mile falls into
the Danabe. Here Mr. Stepney, my Lord Paget, and ome others
proceed directly to Vienna.

1 JUNE xx.
THREE Hungarian miles, thro a delicious and well tilled coun
try, in ight of Prcharg cale, we proceed to Pruck; ju at the
entrance of which we cros the Leyta, and by that means pas out
of Hungary into aria, of which Prack is the ir town in this
road. It isa coniderable compact place, neatly built with an ap
caring magnificence, which they aect by building their houes
liigh and uniform towards the reet. lt has a cale and a rong
wall, tho not ucient again the preent art of war. ln the mar
ket place is a pillar, that bears a profane image of the Trinity, the
Father in the gure of an old man, the Son anding at his right
hand, and the Holy Gbo in the hape of a dove hovering betwixt
their heads. Here is an handome convent of Auguin friars, and
in the market place a new church not yet inihed, which promies
omething both beautiful and magnificent.

JUNE xxi.
THIs day, being Sunday, we continue at Prack, when l took
an occaion of walking by the banks of the Leyta, in pleaant
and delightful meadows.
JUNE xxii.
FOUR German miles from hence bring us to Scbweka, a neat
village near Ebe'or ; where is a palace of the Emperor, and a
large park, encloed by the Danale and the Scloweka.

JUN E xxiii.
BY three in the afternoon his Excellency moves from hence,
and in an hour and a half, at the diance of two German miles,
happily arrives at Vienna; where he is lodged in the uburbs, be
2 twixt
 to HoLLAND, and theme to EN'GLAND. 113
twixt the Cari/aian gate and the Favorita, in a palace of Count
.Vterembergb. After the 'repoe of a day or two his Excellency
had a eparate audience of the Emperor, and Empi'es, the Arch
duke Carlo, and the fourArchdutchees. And being viited by mo
of the nobility, courtiers, and miniers of the place, he after
wards took occaion of returning their repective viits.

VIENNA is eated on a point of land, made by the 'confluen'ce

of the river Iien and a branch of the Danube, which latter here
enlarges itelf about a thouand paces from its main chanel. The
city is of a moderate Circumference, carce containing more than
four thouand paces within the circuit of the walls 5 but round
thee, at a large diance, are extended many diued uburbs, by
means of which it may be placed among the larger cities of Europe.
The fortications are eective, regular, and intire ; a large unin
terrupted glacis, a rong pale, a deep and wide fos, a ubantial
curtain lined with brick, thirteen baions, and as many ravelins,
with ix well defended gates. Anwerable to thee there are two
arenals within the city ; one for ammunition and artillery be
longing to the Emperor, and the other for mall arms belonging
to the citizens. The reets, tho few of them broad, are yet all
of them fair and moderately raight, ranged on each ide with
lofty houes of four or ve ories high, built with a good appear
ance, tho not really magnicent; for they hew a regularity of
architcture in their windows, cornihes, and water tables, but the
materials are only brick walls incrued in imitation of freeone.
Among the buildings of the city are interpered everal oblong
piazzas, adorned with fountains, tho of no great art or Curioity.
Yet there are two quares, each of which exhibitsa coniderable
public monument; one being the pillar of the Bleed Virgin,
and the other that of the mo Holy Trinity. The former of thee
is abras Column, adorned round the four corners of the bais with
as many gures of angels, and on the chapiter bearing a noble
atue of the Madonna, with her feet reing on a dragon. It was
begun by the la Emperor, and nihed by the preent; and ex
hibits four religious or uperitious incriptions, the chief of which
is a triumphant declaration of the immaculate conception, as now
confirmed by a papal verdict, and hence forward to be received as
an article of faith. The latter pillar, called that of the Holy Pi
m'ty, is a magnicent Column of marble and freeone riing ixty
x feet high, almo in the form of a pyramid. It was the work
of
-\--'

us A JOUKNEY from ADRIANOPLE

of ten' years, nihed in 169 2., at the expence of a hundred thou
fand florins, and erected by the preent Emperor in commemo
ration of this city, and the dukedom of Auria, being delivered
from the plague in the year 167 9. It is adorned in three corners
with thee incriptions, Deo Patri Creatori, Deo I'ilio Redemptori,
Deo Spiritu-i Sanctiieatori ; and in three other places with larger
devotions and dedications, compoed by his Imperial Majey. From
the bais it ries in continual orbs and protuberances of clouds,
urrounded with everal intire angelic gures, out of which are
een the wings and heads of others. But on the top is repreented
in gilt bras the Mo Holy Yiinity: the Holy Gho, as a dove,
irradiated ; theticton in an human gure, holding a cros; and the
Father at his left hand, with no marks of majey, but clothed in a
looe gown, like an old man, bearinga globe in his right hand. At
the bottom is the Emperor himelf, kneeling indeed in a poure of
devotion, but otherwie repreented with more marks of honour and
majey,than the Divine Being which he adores. The gure of God
the Father is very frequent in Auria, and varioufly expreed, ome'
times in a nightgown and cap, and at other times with a papal crown.

THE cathedral church of this place is dedicated to St. Stephen,

and is a ately antient building, having an high tower adorned
throughout with crotchets'o rong, that it withood everal canon
hot in the late iege. It is now repaired, and bears in the work
the date of that year, which was 1683. On the pire it has acros
riing from between the wings of the Roman eagle, inead of the
half moon, which ood there before by compact with Solyma'n the
jlagniicent. The inide of the church is divided into three illes,
at the upper end of which are many magniicent altars, with at
lea thirty more dipered about the pillars and other corners of the
church. Near the principal of thee the walls are almo covered
with pictures and culptures, uperitioufly dedicated on occaion
of o many vows there made; whichI call therefore, in the words
of that ingenious heathen poet, Tahulis acer votivis paries. Over
the great altar is placed the picture of the Maa'onna, by the name
of Sta. [Maria a'e Boes, brought not long ince from Hungary on
occaion of its having hed tears; of which, I aw one at SanEZa
Margarita, who pretended to be an eye witnes. The anniverary
of the day it was brought to Vienna, and of that, on which it
_wept, are celebrated by a public fea, when the Emperor likewie
hears mas on the occaion. There is likewie another miraculous
A image.
 to HOLLAND, andtlrenee toENGLAND. '117
image of the Virgin at the lower north door of the cathedral,
which is daily o thronged with worhipers on their knees, that
it gives oence to the bihop of this city, who is endeavouring to
uppres the picture, as well as the abue. In this door is a white
one, worn coniderably by the touch of all that enter there, as
being thought to be one of thoe, with which Ft. Step/pen was mar
tyred. Round the body of the church are frequent monuments
well carved, and ome culptures of the Hiory of tloe Gopel,
which can carce any where be exceeded. There is likewie a new
faint, whoe atue ofone has been lately erected on all the bridges
of Vienna, He is yled under his picture, tl'. Joannes [Wepo
mienm, Martyr, who was drowned by a King of Bohemia for not
dicovering a confeion of the Queen.

Basrnss this cathedral there are four or ve parochial churches,

of which the mo remarkable is that of St. Miclaael ; but among
uch a multitude of conventual churches, and each of thee fur
nihed with a large number of altars, the parochial are in a great
meaure obcured. The mo plendid convents of the place are
r, that of the Dominicans; after this the Benedictines, former
ly belonging to the Scotch; then two belonging to the Jeuits, of
which one is called the Domas pro/c'a, the other the college; next
the Minorite Francicans, then the' Anguines, and laly the Ca
puchines. Of thee the Minorite Francicans have in their chapel
a pattern of the Scalaanfla; the Auguines the Capella aa/xctca,
and the pattern of the Temple of Loretto ; the Capuchines a mall
but pretty chapel in one de of their church, wherein are buried
the deceaed of the Imperial family. The roof of the church be
longing to the college of Jeuits is now newly painted in perpe
ctive, that is inimitable, by P. Pozzo Of that ociety; who like
wie did the celebrated perpective in the church of that ociety
atRome.

VIENNA was made the eat of the Imperial family by Ferdi

nand the econd, who tranlated it from Gratz. The imperial
and royal palaces belonging to this place are, one old one in the
city, uually called the Boarg; another in the uburb oppoite to
the Corinthian gate, called the Faoorite; a third at Liber/[o
two hours diant from the city; and a fourth at Lnxembarg, at the
-diance of two hours and a half. All thee are plain, but capa
cious and convenient buildings; and the Emperor divides his re
Hh idence
 118 AJOURNEY from ADRIANOPLE
idence betwixt them, according to the dierent eaons of the
year. But at Sc/aonbran, about two Englih miles diant from
[ie-rim, is a new palace as yet in ome meaure unfinihed ; which
is built for the King of the Romans after the Italian mode, adorned
in the pinacles with atues, a gentle acent and patious airs up
to the entrance, beautied with a regular garden behind, and on
the front two ranges of ables and oces, that form a regular
quare court. The rooms and apartments within are ately and
well proportioned, and the doors and chimney pieces richly built
with Polonian marble. Beides thee, in the way to Eberto' are
to be een the ately remains of the palace, called Neugebac; which
was deroyed by the Turks in the late iege, and is not yet re
paired. However there appears a regular front, coniing of pro
per pillars; and in ome apartments of this ruined houe are kept
everal wild beas of great Curioity. Thee, with ome others at
Scbonbran, l took an opportunity of viewing, and hall here give
a brief account of them. At Neagebac are two lions, one of which
is about ve years old, but the mo ately and majeic as can
well be een. Three ca'awares, a pecies of bird without wings,
the body of the ize and hape of a heep, the legs long and thick
in proportion, the neck tall with a blue but blunt cre, the fea
thers black and exactly reembling thoe Two
tzigerr, one of a large and unuual ize.
of anleopara's
orich.wellThree
pot
ted, their ears hort, their head like that of a cat, but their body
more approaching to a mongrel greyhound ; they are wit, and
hunt hares, or other creatures, which are thrown into their walk.
Several lynces, nothing dierent (as I am informed) from the pan
ther; they are potted with larger circles than a tiger or leopard,
and much reemble a wild cat, but exceed it in ize. An byaena,
.\\ much reembling a maif, but the noe more round and contra
cted, a large belly, anda brindled potted tin. A beaver, which
is a little amphibious animal, of a at gure, with a hort neck and
legs, a oft and thick fur, and a bare tail. Thee which follow,
are at Scbonbran. Several wila'goatr, the males with large horns,
and therefore by the antients called aegoceror. Two oric/Jes, the
one ve, the other fteen years old, the head higher than the or
dinary ature of a man, the feathers black, except on the tail
and tip of the wings, where they are milk white, the thighs per
fectly bare, the legs long and ubantial, the feet divided into two
broad pulpy claws, which are thought poionous, and in figure
omewhat reembling thoe of a camel, whence they are called in
7. Latin
 to HOLLAND, and theme to ENGLAND. 119
Latin eamelolrntbi. Two antilopes. A he elk, a timerous animal,
which is made much like an hind, with a broad excrecent mouth.
Three art', in the gure of a bull, but athicker and horter neck,
with the appearance of prodigious rength, and one of them very
large. But concerning thee two la pecies a fuller account
may be een in Caezr, De B. Gall. Lia. vi. cap. 5.

THERE are three libraries in this place. One is called Bielio<

them I'Vind/oagiana, which belongs to the Dominican convent.
Another is at the college ofJeuits, which is larger and better col
lected. But the third, which exceeds them both, and perhaps all
others in thee parts of the world, is that, which belongs to the
Emperor at his palace in this city. In the Dominican library I
aw_a monrous human oetm kept in pirits of wine; with another
dried and ued, whic is double in all its parts, as having two
heads, four hands, four legs, and two trunks as far as the navel,
where they unite into one body. But what I oberved in the Cae
arian library will deerve a more diinct relation, which I hall
give in the following particulars.
THE mo eminent Greek Ms. in the Catalogne ofNcielins, with
other curioities by him mentioned, and particularly the pictures
belonging to the res veiaria of the antients ; all which may be
een in the catalogue which I had there with me.

BESlDES what occurs in the Neelian Catalogne, the antient

Amaroian M." of part of Li'oy, which is clear and legible; tho the
' contraryctis aerted by Dr. Brown 1. lt is the olde copy now extant
of that author, and tho it ends with Lib. xLv ; yet there is added at
the bottom of the page, Liber XL vr incipit felicizer, as if it was ex
tant at that time, which is conceived by Lambecinr to be about a
a thouand years ince.
The M: German Bible of the Emperor Weneeans, in the
margin of which, among other curious pictures relating to the
a'cred ory, he is himelf painted in more than fty places, as
wahing in his bagnio, where he was once prioner; together with
the bagnio girl, who furthered his ecape, and whom afterwards
he o paonately loved.
A copy of the golden bull, containing the conitutions of the
empire by Charles the fourth, in the r year of his empire. It
1 fro-vel: into divers part: of Europe, p. 145.
1S
120 A JOURNEYfrom-ADRIANOPLE
is now a great Curioity, and was written for the ue of the Em
peror l-l/encelaas, but forty years after the original publihed at
laremlarg in 13 56, and ill reerved at agsbarg.
An elegant, tho not very antient [l/ of Cicero's Orations, with
another more antient of Ovid's Metamorplooes.
The Letter of the preent Tartar Han to the preent Emperor,
inely wrote on a long roll of ilk.
A printed book of the Conacz'an plrz'loopby in the Sinee cha
racter and language, publihed by the Jeuits.
A Mi book of Latin letters, written by the preent Emperor
to Lamoecias, in a neat and elegant ile; in which he always be
'gins with, Cloare Lambeci. To this is axed the following Epi
gram on the preent King of France by the aid Emperor, atteed
by Lamaecias to have been written by the Emperor in his preence
at Laxemoarg, 17 May 1666. -
Bellaagz's, hqaeris
Et bellatori bellas,
imt tibi bella pagnaeqae
torzi. repagnar,
Imbelles imbel/is amas, totagae widerz's
Mars ad opas Veneris, Martis ad arma Venus.
The celebrated of j'acobas Strada, antiquary to Maximzilian
the econd, concerning antient medals; coniing of eight vo
lumes
Vol. iii.inDethisLatimis,
order:a Julia
Vol. i.Caeare
and ii.adDe nammis
Nerwtm. Vol.conalaribas.
iv. De zii
dem, a Neroo ad Alexandram Seoeram. Vol. v. De iidem, an
Alexandre Seoero ad Claadiam Seeandam. Vol. vi. De nammz's
Graecis a JalioCae/are ad Nervam. Vol. vii. De iidem, a Neroo
ad Alexandram Seoeram. Vol. viii. De t'zidem, ab Alexandro Se
oero ad trtiginta illos ab Gallieno tyrannos. This work contains
a collection of fair and choice medals, all exquiitely delineated
by a pencil, each of which ills a whole page in folz'o ; but the ex
plication added by the author hews him to have been more la
borious than learned, and dicovers many notorious miakes, as
well in the tongues, as the hiory, to which the medals relate. ,
Two fragments, one in the Greet, the other in the Latin
tongue, written on antient bark.
THE cae of this libriary is very mean, being unfurnihed with
feats and benches, and divided into four or ive diinct apart
ments, beides another more eparate from the re, inwhich are
kept all prohibited, that is,tcontroverial books in divinity, to
" " '" gether
 to HoLLAND, andtbeme to ENGLAND. rzr
gether with the mall remainder of Matthias Coroinm'r library
brought that
library, fromince
Buda.the But it of
death is ill a greater
Nce/zius it hasdiadvantage
for two yearstobeen
this

without alibrarian, and therefore is dicult of acces, and not

without a coniderable fee. This defect is attributed to the great
carcity of learned men in thee parts, epecially thoe of the Ro
man
bcciusfaith; for whichbeing
and Ncrlzius, reaon the two
before preceding
Lutherans, librarians,
were obliged Lam
to re
nounce their faith, when they accepted that employ.

OVER again the library is a long gallery, adjoining likewie

to the palace, wherein is contained the Emperor's treaury. A noble
and truly royal collection is here of innumerable curioities, both of
art and nature, with va riches in ilver, gold, pretious ones, and
jewels. But this likewie has the digrace of being meanly ex
poed to fale, nor is it ever hewn under the exorbitant fee of
twenty ive orins ,- however I obtained two opportunities of view
ing it, in the latter of which I took a large and diinct catalogue
of the chief rarities depoted there, which would be too large to
be here inerted.
THE Univerity of this place is anumerous ociety, appropriated
to everal diinct nations, particularly thoe of the empire, and the
Emperor's hereditary dominions; but it is remarkable for nothing
but a low contracted initution, and adminired wholly by the
Jeuites, except that they refue the oce of rector macgmicus,
as being an expenrve honour. The chools are tolerable and con
venient apartments, adjoining to the Jeuits college; but the par
ticular udents are lodged privately, as every one's circumances
and conveniency be erve him. But what they call the made-my
is in its kind more flourihing than the univerity ; being a ociety
inituted at the charge of the whole province of Auria, to in
ruct the young gentry and nobility in riding, fencing, dancing,
'- the modern tongues, heraldry, hiory, and other polite arts. Their
riding chool is a noble room; and adjoining thereto is a able of
about forty managed hores, for the maintaining of which their
.inructor in horemanhip receives ten thouand orins annually
from the public.

THE preent Imperial family ordinarily reiding in this palace

conis of the Emperor; the Emprefs Leonora; the King and
I i Been
122 A JOURNEY om ADRIANOPLE
QJeen of the Romans; Archduke Cloarles; with the four Arch
dutchees, Maria Eliaaetlv, Maria Anna, Maria joep/oa, Maria
Magdalena. Of thee the Emperor has now paed ixty two years
of his age, the King of the Romans twenty four, and the Arch
duke will be eventeen in October next; the two elder of the Arch
dutchees have been ome time marriageable, but the two youn
ger are in their ate of childhood. The Emperor is of a mild di
poition, and concientioully ju, except where inuenced by
popih principles; he reaons olidly, has a happy memory, is
both a lover and compoer of muic, killed in the Hungarian,
Sclavonian, and French tongues, and has an elegant tae of the
Italian and Latin. Both he and his Empres appear truly devout in
their way, which they teify by many inances of diuive libe
rality and charity, as likewie by their frequent walks in proce
ions, and daily viiting and dining in religious convents. Their
garb, epecially that of the Empres, is exceeding plain; their
coaches and liveries of the old fahion; and their ceremonious
dres is the habit and mode of Spain. Only they have now and
then, what they call their Gala days, in which there is a great reort
to court, and none appear there but in uits of gold and ilver
embroidery. So that it is the widom of this government, which
has little reaon to brag of its riches, to make this ort of luxury
neceary, at a time when its more wealthy neighbours have either
by prudent choice, or wholeome laws, wholly retrenched thee
uperuities. But to return to the character of the family. The
Emperor is not only devout, but even bigoted to the Romih
church, and fondly addicted to the pries, epecially the Je
uits. The King of the Romans on the contrary is everely im
bittered again them, but the Archduke is inclinable to tread in
his father's eps. The Empres will ometimes undertake pilgri
mages on foot to ome famous hrine, or image, in the adjoining
country; and promies herelf no doubt great benets from that
painful uperition.

THE King of the Romans was gone to the iege of Landaw be

fore our arrival; but the remainder of the imperial family l had
frequent opportunity of eeing, particularly at their upper, or
the operas, which are ometimes acted in a theatre at the favorzite.
It is their Cuom to alute the Emperor by bowing the knee.
- Their table is truly moderate, and a remarkable example of tem
perance and parimony. Their operas are CXCClVC dull, the action
mean
 to HOLLAND, ana' thence to ENGLAND. 123
mean and trivial, and therefore more agreable to the low genius
and relih ofthis place. Another occaion, that oered me the ight
of the Emperor and the Archduke, was at a certain port, with>
which in ummer time they frequently divert themelves. They
end out a large and expenive train of carts, laden with tents,
canvas, poles, and other utenils, into one of their adjoining
parks. There in an open green a tent is pitched for the Emperor
and his retinue, round which a large and long pace of ground is
encloed with high rails of canvas. When the Emperor is arrived,
and ready to begin his diverion, a rank of huntmen ound their
horns, the rails drop at one end, and the grand cacciato're rides
out with his attendants to drive in an herd of deer, encloed near
at hand for this purpoe. This done, they are forced up to the
Emperor's tent, till at the diance of about twenty yards they
and in a throng together. Hereupon his Imperial Majey takes
a well poied carbine, res it upon a xt "upport, then applies a
perpective glas to the barrel, and dicharges among the herd;
and thus, with the help of the Archduke, he uns, or maims per
haps, a dozen at twice as many hots. At length they it down to
diner, there talk over their diverion, and give this ignoble laugh
ter the name of a hunt.

DURING my ay at Vienna, I had the opportunity of three

accidental but remarkable ights. The ir of thee was the exe
cution of a woman by decollation, whoe head the executioner
ruck o, as lhe fat-in a chair, at one blow, levelled again the
back part of her neck, with a two handed roke, and a broad
two edged word. At thee executions there ais, as in Italy,
a number of about twenty perons, called the conraternity of the
dead, habited in black, with maks, broad brimed hats, and
mourning aves. They are a ixed ociety, compoed of citizens
of the middle rank, on whom their confeors impoe it, as a piece
of penance, to ai incogm'to on thee occaions. But mo re
markable was the fact and behaviour of the criminal, who was
about twenty ix years of age, and in the abence of her husband,
now three years imprioned at Preharg, had admitted the em
braces of a young man, whom he paionately loved, but at length
dicovered to be upon the deign of marrying another woman.
After the mo earne but fruitles endeavours to divert his inten
tion, he invites him one morning to a walk beyond the Faoorite,
and in a remote place enticing him to kis her, takes occaion to
r hoot
 124 A JOURNEY from ADRIANOPLE
hoot him in the head. This done, he immediately reigns her
elf to juice, reveals the whole fact, and implores her peedy di
patch; that o he might have his company in the other world,
without whom he could not live in this. She walked with a freh
undaunted countenance to the place of entence, which tho be
fore deigned and notied accordingly, yet is never formally pro
nounced till the time of execution, From thence he returned to
the place of her death, at down in the chair, and then received
the roke, without ever wavering her body, changing her Com
plexion, or dreading the blow he was to feel. At thee execu
tions they often catch the blood of the criminal, as good again
the falling cknes '.

ANOTHER ceremony that occurred, while l reided here, was

the inveiture of the Duke of Saxcmy, and other inferior Princes
of that circle, now at length demanded of his Imperial Majey,
at the Fawrite, on the eighth of Augu. The ve everal repre
entatives of the Elector and other Princes kneeling before the Em
peror, who was eated on a low throne, did fealty in behalf of
their repective patrons, reheared their pedigrees and title to their
principalities, and requeed of his Imperial Majey to be inveed
in their everal dignities. This being granted to them, they then
took the proper oath at the feet of the Emperor; afterwards kied
the handle of a word, which he held forth to each of them; and
at la retiring to their r places, there on their knees they
recognized the authority of his Imperial Majey, and o were di
mied. '

THE third olemnity was a pompous proceion, undertaken to

accompany the bones of three Saints, namely, Sancta Victoria,
Sancta: Alexander, and Sancta: j'um, from St. Stepben's to the
chapel of the Emperor's palace in the city. They were newly
brought from Italy, where being oberved by Prince Leicbtenein
in his late embay to Rome, and found to have ome relation to
Hungary, of which two of them were natives; they were thought
proper to be tranmitted to Via-ma, and accordingly purchaed
very dear, one of them anding him in no les than four thou
and orins. In this proceion marched all the religious orders,
ranked in their everal fraternities, except that the Jeuits di
l Vid. Plin. Lib. xxviii. r. i. et Harduin. in loc.
d poed
_._ -_-

.-_-_-_-_ '_.
 to HoLLAND, ana'tence toENGLANn. ing
poed themelves promicuouly among the lait'y. After the
monks and friars followed the meaner people, to the number of
about two thouand; then the gentry, tho in a maller number;
after them a few of the nobility ; then the Archduke and Em
peror; and la of all the Empres and Archdutchees. Each
peron of this numerous train maintained a decent gravity, except
the Archbihop of ienna, who being dreed in his epicopal robes
and mitre walked like a hore in gaudy trappings, flinging about
his legs, urveying his rich vements, and looking up to the la
dies and other pectators, who admired him from the windows,
under which he paed.

AUGUsT xxvii.
THIS day I went in a calah, together with Mr. Montague and
Mr. Gangain, to Petronel, a village on the Danaae, about
twenty four Englih miles from z'enna, eated in the pl'ace of
the antient Carnantam, where M. Antoninas held his capital quar
ters to bridle the Mareomanni for the pace of three years, and
then retiring on account of his indipoition to Vindooona died
there. While we were on the road, I was entertained by thoe
gentlemen, with a relation of what they had een the day before.
Count S/Jerradin of Bobemia had everal times hot a piol bullet
into a mark of the ize of a orin, at the diance of forty yards.
And at this he is aid to be o expert, that his pages will venture
to hold a florin between their thumb and forenger, which he .
dextrouly ues to rike without hurting them. The like is ome
times practied by the preent King ofPoland, tho he once broke
the ngers of a page in making the experiment. We here aw
the remains of a triumphal arch, the fornix of which is yet intire;
erected, as is thought by Ncelius and Lamaeeius, on occaion of
that Pannonian cxpedition of Tiberiar, which is o much celebrated
by Patereulas '. The inhabitants here hewed us various Roman
coins, tho none of any noted value. The village now belongs to
Count Traan, who is decended from Babo, count of Aaenherg,
who had forty children by two lawful wives; thirty two of which,
being ons, were preented by him to the Emperor, Henr'y the
econd, who prefered them all. Count Traan has here a ately
palace, called the Cale, where we aw the ory of the thirty two
ons of Count Baao painted at large '. The houe is moted round,
_' Lib. ii. cap. 96 et 1 14. * See Imbof. Lib. x. cap. 16. -
Kk as
126 AJOURNEY from A'DRIANOPLE
as is uual all over this country. In' the inide is a noble hall,"
well painted in the roof, and at the entrance of the gate is xt
an antient Latin incription, which I have here trancribed.
SlLVANAB. ET
QYADRIBIS ' AVG. SACRVM
C. ANTONINVS VALENTINVS
VET. LEG. XIIII. G. MVRVM A FV
NDAMENTIS CVM SVO INT
ROITO ET PORTlCVM CVM
ACCVBITO VETVSTATE CONLA
BSVM IMPENDIO SVO RESTITV
IT GENTlANO 'E BASSO COS.

AUousT-xxix.
His Excellency with his whole family retired this day from
Vienna to Baa'en, a mall town, yet encloed with an old wall,
and celebrated for its baths, which are of pure ulphur. They rie.
in everal places about the town, without any mixture of eel or
other mineral, and are there collected into everal quare cierns
railed about with wood; where people of dierent quality bathe
in diinct bagnios, and in ome caes with good ucces. The
town is eated four hours from Vienna, at the foot of the hills,
which I take to be the Pannonian llpr. In this place Mr. Paget
and l ued the conant exercie of walking morning and evening,
wherel experienced a happy reoration of my health, once much
debilitated in Turky. Gloria in excelis Deo/

SEPTEMBER xxv.
His Excellency now ent Mr. Paget and myelf to ee the cale
of Laxemlarg, ituated in the way betwixt Baden and Vienna, lt
is a mean building, in the form of a mall quadrangle, and
tuoted round. I oberved everal curious pictures in it, one par
ticularly fine of the even liberalciences, in the dining room of
the Emperor; another of the preent King of France, when about
four years of age; a third of Clear-[es tloeiftlo ; a fourth of Mat
tloias Coroinas and his father Hanziades. The dining room is ob
ervable for an accident of thunder, which, while the Emperor
and his family were at diner, entered the room at one quarter,
' Spon, who has publihed this incrip- praedentia; gaoler in [ii-vii.: et tn'oiir Her
tion, oberves, that by thee OJADMBIS mi en Mercurii ab antigm': ral/i. Micell.
might be meant, jeminumina quodrioii: erud. antiq. pag. 84.
paed
 \

to HoLLAND, andtbeme to ENGLAND. 127

paed in a emicircle about the table, and made its way thro the
oppoite wall with great exploion; while the Emperor remained
in his eat with a remarkable calmnes and erenity of mind. Ad
joining to this building is a delightful park encloed with pales;
and nearer to the houe a thick grove of elm and oak, in which
is a long walk, and avenues o cut, as to reemble all the reets
of Via-imo.

SEPTEMBER xxix.
THlS day Mr. Paget and I by the direction of his Excellency
went to ee a glas houe, newly erected in the hills adjoining to
this place, at the diance of about three hours. Our way thither
lay thro a delicious vale, which conveys a mall river, is graced
with green meadows on each ide, and above thee with riing
hills, adorned with a variety of trees, but particularly pines and
rs. l here oberved the everal curioities of that art and manu
facture, which, tho frequent in England, I had never before een."
Returning home we ept a little to the left hand, to viit a con
vent of Crercizm monks, by the name of St. Cros, founded in
the year 1 13 t, by St. Leopolol, Marques of uria. During the
late iege of Vienna it was burnt by the Tartars (the common fate
of all this country for thirty or forty Holland miles round Via/ma)
but oon after rebuilt by its own abbot, Clement &o-r, in a more
ately and plendid manner. Here reide an abbot, a prior, and
about ixty monks, all royally maintained by noble revenues be
longing to the monaery. They are neatly and gentilely dreed,
lodged in pleaant chambers, have their public appartments alike
magnificent, a ne garden, and propects beautiied with viosp
and avenues out in the adjoining woods. The abbot was then
abent, but the prior and librarian treated us at upper, where we
were erved with even or eight dihes, the be old wines, and
converation far from monkih. The librarian particularly was
pleaed to ridicule the cuomof igning all the doors of this coun
try with C. M. B. which the people fondly eeem a charm
again re and thievery; but he, as he aid, inead of Cupar
Malc/oeir Bulkazr, was wont to intet ret thee letters Cax Mzma'm
Bee/zebub. At the ame time I cou d not but be highly oended
ata certain jocular freedom, with which he treated the Holy &rip
tm'e,
of aying
wine, with a aprofane
Traneat mirth,
me calzix i/Ie;when
and he delivered
when he hadto toed
us a glas
off
4 _ _ his
 -t.,._.- r >-,

1'28 a JOURNEY from ADRIANOPLE

his own, Conim'natam e. In truth we here aw not any token
o popih zeal or uperition, as is uual in other places, no cru
cixes, or images of the Trinity, Virgin, and the like; but in
ead o thee, the whole Imperial family excellently well paint
ed, and thee in rooms, which for grandeur exceeded any, that
the Emperor is maer of in his palaces about Vienna. Here they
favoured us with a lodging after a gentile and candid entertain
ment, and dimied usin the like manner by eighta clock the next
moirning. Their library was mean, but the cae very neat; tho
the library had been much larger before the deruction by the
Tartars. However I aw here a good Latin M of the New Te
lament, without the Epiles of St. Peter, James, or John; and the
Apocalype placed immediately after St. jolin's Go/pel.

OCTOBER iv.
MY Lord and his famil now returned from Baden to Vienna,
where he lodged within t e city in the houe of C. Stratman, at
the rate of ve hundred orins a month. At Baden I was able
to oberve nothing, except ome mall matters relating to coun
try aairs. As their way of making wine in the eld, where they
mah the grapes in broad open tubs, and tun it into large cacs,
as they lie in the cart. The manner of encloing their vineyarda
with high poles joined at the top, and burnt at bottom to ecure
them from corrupting by the moiure of the ground. The man
ner of drawing ometimes with aes, and at other times with oxen,
joining the harnes to their horns without the ue of yokes. I
oberved likewie their cuom of calling a public ocer upon the
death of any animal ; before which they dare not touch the car
cas, he only being impowered to carry it away to a certain
place, and there Hea it, for which he receives three orins. This
ocer is called the bonndayer, becaue twice a year he is obliged
to kill all the dogs both in town and country, that are found
without a collar, which is thought an initution again preading
of infectious dieaes.

OCTOBER V.
Tnrs day I waited upon Mr. Stepney, who among other papers
from England hewed me that traiterous Epigram, written' in
praie of Sorrel, or the hore, from which his late Majey re
ceived his fatal fall. 4 oc'ro
 to HOLLAND, andtbence'to ENGLAND. 129

OCTOBER xxv.
THERE was brought to his Excellency's houe a male child,
even years of age, born at Rigetc/o, three miles and a half from
Papa, of a beautiful countenance, but without legs or thighs ; and
the left hand deformed, but the right intire. It walks, and raies
itelf with eae, while its trunk upplies the ue of one leg, and
the right hand that of the other. The hips terminate in a round
igure, not unlike a woman's breas, and have in the middle an
excrecence texactly reembling a large nipple. The child is
healthy and lively, and from the crown of the head to the extre
mity of the trunk is three palms and a half long.

_I HAD now, in company of everal Englih gentlemen, an op

portunity of eeing the Emperor's collection of pictures, which is
expoed at the 'price of twelve orins. It conis of three long
galleries, with four or ive large and quare chambers. The
whole number of pieces amounts to a thouand ix hundred
and ixty three, performed by the be hands of Europe, parti
cularly thee which follow : Albeit Darer, Anton. Correggtio,
Baan, Palma enior and junior, Pragel enior and junior, Paul
Veroneh, Bronzini, France enior, Padaanino, _7o. Bel/ino, Poa/li
n, Gerome Pos, Portononi, Spagnoletto, Rap/oael Sancto, Glor
gioni, Titian, Tintoretto, Van cb, Holaet'n, Rabens, Van Diet, j'o/m
de Heern, Paaditz, and others. Among thee there was one piece
of Rapbael, which eemed to excel the re, being a faint bold
ing a eracx, which belonged to the cabinet of King Charles the
ir of England, and was old by Oliver to this court for twelve
thouand florins. Beides this collection of pictures, there is an
other et of rarities, preerved in a cabinet at one end of the third
gallery, vand coniing of intaglios and cameos; among which is a
large head of Domitzian in agate ; a eries of gold medals, and
among them two of Otlso, to which is added a Piennzias Nt'ger
in ilver of the third ize. In the ame cabinet are everal mall
atues .of bras and one, among the re thoe of Venus and
Hercules; and likewie everal antient bus, particularly of Plato
and Ariotle; with diversepulchral lamps, urns, and other re
mains of antiquity. To ay nothing of the curioities found in
the tomb of Childeric the r by Leopold'illiam, Archduke of
Ll - Aa/t'ria,
r3o A JOURNEY from ADRIANOPLE
unia, and uncle to this Emperor, at Tourmzy in the year 16 57.
Among thee are ome remarkable gold coins of that time, with
the repeated emblem of ies or bees, the wings of which at a di
ance give the gure of a ower cle Iys, and are uppoed to be
the real arms of France, tho this reemblance has occaioned their
being miaken for that flower. But more epecially is to be re
membred the order of antient bus ranged on one ide of the three
galleries, among which are everal heads ofEmperors, and Satyrs,
with one of Socrates; as likewie an intire gure of Magrza Mater
turrita, with a lion under her chair, a tympannm in her let hand,
and patina in her right; which co this court a thouand orins
at Rome. *

.NOVEMBER iii.
I WENT to viit Mr. C. Boet, a famous painter in enamel, who
had a alary from his late Majey, whoe picture, with thoe of
other confederate Princes, drawn by him he now hewed me. But
that which is mo remarkable, he is at preent working for this
court the large piece, that ever was known in enamel, being
an oval of eighteen inches by fteen ,- which contains the gures
of the Emperor and Empres, King and Queen of the Romans,
with the Archduke, the four Archdutchees, and the two young
Daughters of the King of the Romans. He was ent for hither by his
late Majey on purpoe for this work, for which when inihed
he is by compact to receive four thouand ducats of gold. The
materials of it are a copper plate covered with a white enamel,
which being hardened in the ire, is afterwards painted over in
colours of a peculiar Compoition, with oil of lavender and roe
mary; and then again put into the re to receive a glos, and ad
ditional hardnes; after which it is liable to no accident, but that
of breaking. It may be oberved, that all the red colours in this
work are made of gold.

NOVEJMBER vi.
THIS day by order of his Excellency I waited on t'he two young
Meieurs Olmeas and others, in order to ee the Emperor's treaury
the third time, and thereby perfected my catalogue of thoe rarities.
2 And
 to HOLLAND, and thence to ENGLAND. 13:
And his Excellency being then preparing for his departure, the
Emperor preented him with ix thouand dollars.

NOVEMBER viii.
His Excellency with his retinue now et forward from ienna
towards Holland, and proceed two german miles to Entzer/a'or
A little before the midway we cros the Danabe over a wooden
bridge four hundred paces in length, and continue near the banks
of the river to the above mentioned town. And as we continued
there the following day, l walked down to the banks of the
Dannbe, where it flows under the cale of St. Leopold, near Clay
er Newbarg, and in the extreme point of Mans Cetiar.

NOVEMBER x.
THIS day we proceed two German miles and a half further to
Stockeran, and there meet C. Scblick, Mr. Stepney, Mr. Montague,
and Mr. Gangain, with whom we proceed three miles and a half
further to our lodgings at Holioran. And from thence his Ex
cellency, with the aid company, the next morning goes out
an hour to Count Sereny's, there to wait on the King of the Ro
manr, now returning from the campaign on the Rliine. By one a
clock the King and Aleen arrived at the Count's, where his Excel
lency had an audience of both their Majeies ; after which they
at down to table, and his Excellency and company dined with the
court, and afterwards returned to Holibran.

NOVEMBER xii.
THIS day we advance about ve miles further in Auria, and
then croing the Teya enter into Moraoia, now called Malren,
and take up our quarters at Znaim, the Medoaniam of Ptolemy.
This is a fair and fortied town, tho of the old fahion, upon the
river Teya, which runs hence into the Morawa, antiently the Ma
ras, and with that into the Danuae. In the year 1645 this town
was taken and pillaged by the Swedes. lt has two market places,
in each of which is a good fountain; and in one of them the
image of the Virgin, erected on a fair pillar, and incribed with
a new ort of Gloria Patri, that is, LAVS DE o, MARIAEQVF. VIR
_G_1N1, SANCTI$0JE_ svis. There are likewie everal convents,
of
132. A JOURNEY from ADRIANOPLE
of Capuchines, Dominicans, Jeuits, and Premonratenians; and
it is remarkable for excellent endive.

NOVEMBER xiii.
VF. ay this day at Znaim, and the day following proceed
three German miles to Bndwitz, thro pleaant woods of ir, with
fertile open feilds. And moving from thence the next morning,
three more German miles carry us thro Baaitz and Dramna to
Pemitza by a pleaant way, thro a country ometimes open and
well tilled ,- and at other times thro delightful woods of pine or
l's ieTmiXt With juniper and a few birch; but carce any other
hrubs or trees in the whole country. At Pernitz is a convent of
Paalins, o called from Sto. Francico di Paala, a rict order, that
eats no fleh nor fih throughout the year. In this place live e
veral Jews, who are bound to wear blue rus, as a mark of di
inction.

NOVEMBER xvi.
Two German miles thro woods of fir and arable ground bring
us to Iglaw. This city, reaonably well fortiied, has a large and
clean market place, round which the houes have fale fronts, and
are handomely painted on the outide with pleaant landkips or
hiories. At the upper end of it is a atue of the Virgin on a
Column, like that at Znaim; both eeming to be an imitation of
that at Vienna. We bait an hour at Iglaw, and then pas on one
German mile to a mall village, called Stelen. But immediately
beyond the wall of Iglavv we pas a river of the ame name, and'
there enter into Bohemia, whence we continue our way over a
large lake, with a road ca up betwixt the two branches of it, and
delicate woods of r adorning its banks. This wood is of large
extent, and eems to be a continuation of the Sylva Hercynia in
this country, now called Beliemerwaldtft

NOVEMBER xvii.
We ay this day at Stelen, where I had leiure to oberve in
general concerning Moravia, that the country is fertile and well
tilled, except where it is overrun with pine or ir woods. The
people are all laves to the lords of the everal manions ; but this
extends only to their labour, not the property of their gain. The
language
 to HoLLAND, andtbeaoe toENGLAND. r33
language of the place is Bebemi/Io, a dialect of the SCll/Oid ; but
at inns and other public houes they ordinarily peak 'Iayec/o. The
government it divided into ive diricts, of which there are as
many captains, but the command of the whole province is com
mitted by the Emperor to Count T/oorrz The river Morawa is
likewie called Mark by the Germans; which latter name eems
to relate to the antient inhabitants, the Marcomaami (who with
the agone/1' were here ettled) as the former name does to the
Mora'viam. Through the whole extent of the country we fre
quent meet with large lakes, at the diance perhaps of an Englih
mile.

NOVEMBER xviii.
THIS day we proceed one mile and a half to 'ioytc-henorodt, an
old fortification on the river Sazawa, and from thence two miles
to Haoem, in a wood on the right hand. Tayt/e/oenorodt was the
place, where General Zezha beat the Emperor Sigimuaa', and by
that defeat drove him out of Bohemia.

NOVEMBER xix.
ONF. mile brings us this day to yam'kaw, and two more from
thence to Czaaw; the place where Ferdzhand the econd narrowly
ecaped being aainated by an Italian, hid for that purpoe in
an oven. Half a mile farther carries us to a mall hamlet, called
laer Cratz. Of thee towns Janikaw is the place, where the
battle was fought betwixt the Swedes and Imperialis in 1645 ;
and Cza/Iaw, where General Zea lies buried.

NOVEMBER xx.
FROM aer Cratz we proceed one quarter of aGerman mile,
and then having the city ofKattenoerg on our left hand, a little
farther in the road we pas by two Imperial mines, where they
are now at_work, and dig up a mixt oar, coniing of copper,
lead, and ilver, a pecimen of which they then hewed us. At
one mile and a half from our la lodging we come to Kottzin, and
there breakfa. Then proceeding another mile and a half, we
arrive at Blomyarz. From Kottin flows the river Elb, which takes
its name about five miles below that place, and is there carce na
Mm vigable.
134. A JOURNEY om ADRIANOPLE
vigable. As we travel, we keep it in fight on the right hand, and
the woods ill on the left.

NOVEMBER xxi.
Two miles and a half from Branyan carry us to Oval, thro an
open arable country, with a continued tract of woods on our left
hand. In the midway we bait at the poor town of Bo/Jaimhroa't.
But the day following for two miles and a half we pas thro a
pleaant grove of birch and pine, and afterwards thro open
ploughed feilds to Pragne.

NOVEMBER xxiii.
HIS Excellency aying this day at Pragae, I took that oppor
tunity of viewing every thing I could of that noble city, which is
thought to be the large in Germany. It is incloed with one in
tire wall, two third parts of which are regularly divided into cur
tains and baions ; but the remaining third is old and defenceles.
Tho indeed the whole town is commanded by acending ground,
that no fortication can make it long defenible. The Maldaw,
a large and rapid river, divides it into two parts, which are again
joined by a fair and ately bridge of one, eventeen hundred
feet'long and thirty ve broad, upported by twenty four arches.
Both parts of the city are adorned with great variety of mag
niicent buildings, the mo remarkable of which I viited in this
order.
ADJOINING to the star inn, where his Excellency lodged, is
the new convent of Irih Cora'eliers ; and in the ame neighbour
hood are two eminaries, one called that of the rcbaihrop, and
the other that of St. Noraert, patron of this kingdom; both which
profes academical learning, but in focieties diinct from the
Univerity of the place.

HENCE the way leads us to the townhoue, a large and ately

building, which at one corner has a piece of clock work, giving
the motions of the even planets. On one ide of this opens a fair
piazza, with two curious pieces of workmanhip. The r of
thee is a atue of the B. Virgin trampling on the Dragon, erected
on a one pillar, on the pedeal of which are four Angel: defeat
ing the like venomous moners. This implies a triumphant de
r claration
 to HOLLAND, and thence to ENGLAND. 135
claration of her immaculate conception, and imitates that work
before oberved at Vienna. The econd Curioity is a fountain of
carved marble, with a bain of twelve ides, on which are cut very
beautifully the twelve igns of the Zodiac.

FROM hence we pas to a college of Jeuits, a noble and pa

tious building The church is a ine fabric, and prodigioully
rich; the cloier large, and adorned with agreable pictures,
among the re are large tables divided into little quares, con
taining the hort hiory and pourtraiture of the eminent perons
of their order for preaching, miions, and converions, among
whom are a great number of Englih.

THE ame way leads us to the bridge above mentioned, and

thence to another college of the Jeuits; but the third, and mo
plendid of this order, is in that part of Pragne called the new
city, which we had not an opportunity of eeing.

WE now turn to the right hand, and in an eminent part of the

city are brought to the Emperor's palace, old and irregular in out
ward appearance, but within its precincts is the old cathedral
church, an handome Gothic building of the year 923, as appears
by an incription on the chief altar. The atelines of the old
architecture, with the richnes as well as beauty of the modern
Ornaments, make it a venerable pile. They have here a picture
of the Virgin, which is pretended to be of tl't. Lale's hand. At
the gate entering into this palace there is another in ight, which
is the reidence of the Archbihop.

FROM the cathedral we are carried to the Capnclzin cloier,

which conis of a mall but mo beautiful quadrangle. Round
the four ides, under a fair portico, are painted thirty dierent co
pies of o many of the mo eminent and miraculous images of the
Virgin, each in the proper garb, poure, and colours of the ori
ginals; and the remaining pace of the wall beneath is illed with
votive tables, in acknowledgement of favours received from each
picture. I thought this collection obervable, in that it is an ap
parent inance of the dierent repreentations of the B. Vir
gin, who is not invoked under the ame character in all places,
and on alloccaions ; but according to the fancy of the ir paint
ers, and the uperition of the late devotees, is plit into o many
diinct
136 A JOURNEY from ADRIANOPLE
diinct objects of worhip; as the Lady cle Victoria, de Litera,
de Coni/z'o, Cry/oomzctana, Cyrilliana, Bernard/na, Lam'etana, Ere
mz'tana, Cellenis, Paawienis, H/ranovienis, Hal/enir. As this
hews how polytheim crept in among the heathen, who ir of all
worhiped God under o many diinct attributes, and afterwards
as o many diinct beings; o it argues greater uperition in the
church of Rome: for inead of the everal characters of Venus,
as Cyprzia, Cyt/oerea, tictrix, and others; or of Diana, as Ari
czinia, Leacopbryne, Tauriea ' ; we have many more of &a. Maria.
ln the middle of this quadrangle is an handome imitation of
the chapel of Loretto, with the Virgin and our ri'aoior above
the altar in the complection of Moors; and on the outide walls
are various religious ories elegantly repreented.

FROM hence we proceed to the celebrated cloier of Premon

ratenians, called the S/oaw/yo, in which above an hundred per
ons are maintained in a princely manner. I was here hewn a
rich chapel, wherein before the incurion of the Swedes were many
large and curious atues of olid bras, particularly thoe of the
twelve poles; which by Count Koningsmarck were converted into
canon, when he took this part of the city, tho he was oon again
repuled. In the middle of the church, in a ately open monu
ment, is preerved the body of St. Noroert, the founder of this
order. Over the tomb is upended a gilt crown of a prodigious ize,
the diameter of the rimb being at lea three ells. After the chapel
I aw their library, which is neat and well illed, but with books
in the tae of the la age. They have here a monkih contri
vance of a wheeling dek with ix ides, on each of which may lie
everal books, o as to be turned round in their order, without
falling o in the motion. From the library we paed to' their
private chapel, wherein is acruciix, which the monk, who hewed
it us, arreed to have een illuminated in the night, while no
candle was in the room. In an adjoining gallery is a large atue
of our dzawior, which they arm to have once weat blood about
the neck, and hew the marks thereof ill remaining. From hence
we are carried to their winter refectory, a large and regular ove
room, well contrived for Warmth and beauty at the ame time.
But their ummer refectory is a pattern of beauty, proportion,
and magnicence, being paved with black and white marble, with
1 Vid. ApuLDe Iide: Cujusnumen um'- multy'uge totus 'veneratur orlzis. Metam.
cummullzormi _pecie, ritu vario, nomine Lib. ii. pag. 280.
three
 to HOLLAND, and tbenee to ENGLAND. 137
three large windows on one ide, and round the walls about
twelve large pictures of eminent perons of their order ; and the
whole is exceedingly well contrived, both for the entertainment
of the mind, and repoe of the body. They hewed us likewie
another large room, with a numerous collection of their mo me
ritorious members in little quares; and la of all the chambers -\
of the monks, with two adjoining gardens, one for the fathers,
the other for the brethren of the ociety, which completed the
pleaure of the ight.

NEXT to this convent we went to ee a Jewih ynagogue, of

which there are eight in this place, the number of that nation
amounting to above ten thouand, who for diinction ake are all
obliged to wear a blue ru.

ON the ately bridge over the Maldaw are to be oberved e

veral curious atues of the Virgin; of our Savior; and of the
new Saint lately et up in all parts of this kingdom, as well as on
all the bridges of Vienna, being a curious piece of ca bras with
this incription :
DIVO IOANNI NEPOMENENO ANNO MCCCLXXXIII
AB HOC PONTE DEIECTO EREXIT MATTHIAS L. B.
DE WVNESWITZ ANNO MDCLXXXIII.

He was here drowned for not revealing to the King of Bohemia a

confeion of his (Lueem

THE famous univerity of this place, which in the time of Jo/on

Husi conied of forty thouand udents, is not even now o far
diminihed,but that when they have occaion to aault the Jews, or
other citizens, they can muer about twelve thouand. They con
i of young perons, not collected into regular ocieties, as with
us, but lodging in private houes, from whence they repair to the
public chools at the appointed hours of lecture. There are three
of thee chools, one in each part of the city, where all academi
cal learning is profeed by the able of the Jeuits; for thee
have the ole direction of the univerity, and are the only rich
prevailing perons in Bohemia, particularly in the capital city,
where they amount to the number of a thouand.

N n NOVEM
I38 A JOURNEY from ADRIANOPLE

NOVEMBER xxiv.
THIs day we leave Pragae, and proceed four miles, thro an
open ploughed country, to Sloney. In the way we receive the con
rmation of the good news, which we r heard at lglaw ; that
eventeen Spanih galleons in the port of Vigo were fallen under
the power of our grand eet, eleven being taken, and ix unk ,
and that the whole quadron of Cloateaarenanlt, being twenty nine
men of war, were either unk or taken.

NOVEMBER xxv.
HIS Excellency continues yet at Sloney, a mall but walled
town, with a large market place, as uual in thee parts. It was
formerly a eat of proteants, and therefore barbarouly deroyed
by Ferdinand the third. The day following we intend for Laana,
three miles from hence; but the place being taken up for the
quarters of ve thouand Saxon oldiers, now moving again Bava
ria, we lodge at Clamlon, half an hour hort of it; where we
continue two days, by reaon of a great quantity of now, which
then fell.

NOVEMBE R xxix.
LEAVING Clamon, at the diance of one quarter of a Ger
man mile we pas under the walls of Laana, and there cros the
Egra by a long wooden bridge, covered with a penthoue, as is
uual in this country. From thence we come to Bitin, the eate
of Prince Loncowitz, where we bait one hour; and from thence
proceed to Deplitz, the eate and eat of Count Clery, remarkable
for an hot bath.

NOVEMBER xxx.
HIS Excellency from hence deigned the raight road, by the way
of Hamein, Friaarg (where are ilver mines, and the tombs of
the electors of Saxony) Waltloeim, Coldick, lVa/cowitz, and o to
Leipiclz. In the mean time he permitted me to quit his retinue,
in order to ee Dreden. With this intent I take a po waggon
from Deplitz to Peterwaldt, the diance of two miles, in which
I pas the hill of Kaiaherg. From Peterwaldt l take a new po,
I and
 to HoLLAND, and thence to ENGLAND. 139
and oon after I have left the town pas the boundary of Bo/oe
mia andnot
village Saxony; and P'irn,
far from at twobymiles
this end
thirdchanging po at
po l come a little
under its
walls, and preently am upon the banks of the Eloe, along which
Ive
ridea clock
about at
half an hour, and then quitting the river arrive about
Dreden, being in all ix miles from Deplzcttz. It be
ing now dark, I repair immediately to my lodgings at the houe
of one Leonard Serert, betwixt the two market places, a civil ho,
, who poke both French and Italian. The way from Peterwa/dt
to Dreden is very agreable, being interpered with woods of
r. The villages are better built, and more populous, than thoe
of Bo/Jernz'a; where indeed neither towns nor villages are thin,
but the people very few, and thoe dejected with a ene of poverty
and lavery, occaioned partly by the tyranny of the church, and
partly by the Conitution of the government, which makes the
peaants laves to their Lords, as in Moravia.

DECEMBER i.
I CONTINUE at Dreden this and the three following days, to
oberve the curioities of the place. It is a neat well built town,
with raight and fair reets, compact but not large, encloed with
in a regular fortication, and a deep fos conantly lled with
water. It ands upon the Eloe, over which it has a noble bridge,
almo as long as that of Prague, upported by eighteen arches,
and on each ide aording a delightful propect along the bending
chanel of the water. By this bridge the city is joined to a neat
uburb, called Old Dreden, the reidence chiey of merchants,
among whom I found two Englihmen, Mr. Northleigh and Mr.
Dealing, by both whom I was kindly treated. Dreden was
always the reidence of the Electors of Saxony, till this preent
Elector was choen King of Poland. However it is the ordinary
eat both of the Electres, and the Prince, who is ix years old ; but
both of them happened to be abent now. The Deputy of the Ele
ctor is the Prince of Faremoerg, who is of the Popih religion,
but the whole town is intirely Lutheran. They have three churches,
St. Cros, Sta. Sop/ozcta, and the chapel of the court. St. Cros is
a large antient Gothic building, well adorned in the inide, par
ticularly with a carved and ately altar. The number of mini
ers is about twelve, whoe revenue is very mall, and therefore
the people here complain, that they make up that defectby the abues
of
 YRN'

I4O A JOURNEY from A_DRIANOPLE

of confelion. The palace is a fair one building, coniing of
two courts, of which the r is large and regular, adorned both
within and without with very good carving, and painting in freco,
which deerves regard, particularly one part of it that fronts the
reet, and repreents aRoman triumph. The gardens are likewie
curious, and the riding chool is remarkably patious ; but what
obcures every thing ele in Dreden, and perhaps all others of the
ame kind in Germany, is the tankammer, with the arenal, and
able of the Elector. Each of thee are hewn to rangers at the
price of three orins, the curioities of which I reduced into a
catalogue. On the bridge at Drea'en is erected a curious bras
erneiix, not inferior to that of Pragae in the workmanhip, but
far exceeding it in deign, and bearing an incription, that dia
vows all uperitious worhip.

DECEMBER iv.
AT ix a clock this evening, it being then very dark, I take a
paage in the ordinary po chaie for Leipict, paying four orins
for the pace of thirteen German miles. By ten at night we come
'to Mien, and there cros the Elbe over a large covered bridge.
The benefit of the ar light gives me opportunity to oberve ome
part of the town, particularly the cale eated on very high
ground. Hence we continue our journey all night, till about
ten a clock the next morning we come to Warzen, where we
dine; and then ferrying over the Maldaw, now a large and rapid
river, after having endured a cold and evere now all the day,
we arrive at Leipiet about ve a clock in the afternoon, where I
provide myelf with a private lodging.

DECEMBER vi.
THIS morning his Excellency and his retinue arrive at Leip
ick by eleven a clock, and lodge at the Gola'en loen in the high
reet, to which place I therefore now remove myelf.

LEIPSICK is a neat and compact place, well built, the reets

almo raight, and conveniently wide. The market place is a
regular quadrangle, urrounded with fair and lofty houes, among
which is the town hall, or court of juice. Not far from the
market is another mall quare, at one end of which is a new
and patious room, to which we acend by one eps. This erves
for

.__x_ WHHH
 to HOLLAND, ana'thence toENoLAND. r4r"
for an exchange, where the merchants meet. The city has three
large churches, one of St. Nicholas, another of St. Thomas, and
a third called the New Church. Thee are all well beautiied
within, epecially that of St. Nicholas, the altar of which is a neat
pile, repreenting in good culpture the burial and reurrection of
our Savior, his hewing his wounds to St. Thomas and the other
diciples, and over the whole his acenion in a cloud. At the
upper end of the two outward iles are painted two good pieces of
perpective. The town has no public buildings, beides an old
cale, and a new hopital; the latter of which erves both for the
reception of lunatics, and alo a houe of correction for vagabonds.
The fortication is regular, and of the new fahion, but not of
any great importance; however it has a fos, that may be illed
with water upon occaion from the Pleis, which wahes the walls
of the city.

THE town is governed by a enate of twenty three, of whom

three, called Bargoma/lers, have the prime authority ; and by a
chief magirate, who has the title of eonil, and is choen annu'
ally. The preent conul is one Romanas, a young gentleman of '
great fortune, and va deigns; who is erecting a noble palace in
the city, built of free one. Among the enators are everal per
ons of quality, who have fair eates, and a learned education.

THERE is a good library belonging to the city, lately purchaed

at the expence of the enators, and which they daily improve by
new acceions. Among the citizens of this rank and character
Icontracted an acquaintance with Mr. lagner, who peaks good
Englih, and has been long preparing a comment on the obcuri
ties of Barclay's Eaphormio, concerning which he has Commi
oned me to make everal enquiries, Another peron of the like
learning and civility is Mr. Graevias (brother to the eminent
critic in Holland) who has the care of the city library, and favoured
me with the ight of it. Thee with many other particulars, that
might be mentioned, are arguments of a rich and ourihing city;
which is occaioned partly from the confluence of udents to the
Univerity; and partly from the benet of three celebrated fairs
of fourteen days each, which are annually kept here, and fur
nihed with merchandizes of all orts, not only from the everal
parts of Germany, but likewie from Italy, Hungary, France,
Holland, England, and other countries.
O o THE
 He)
r4z A JOURNEY om ADRlANOPLE

THE aple commodities of the town are the linen manufa

cture, and a natural blue earth, which is dug only in ome me
talic mines of Saxony, and which to the va advantage of this
place is exported from hence to England, Holland, and elwhere,
for the ue of dying. As to the execution of juice, adultery is
here a capital crime, but in this cae the criminal mu be con
victed by his own confeiion, to which they oblige him by force
of torture. The beauty of the city, which appears to a good ad
vantage by day light, is however not lo in the night, by means
of their new lamps, which are ranged in an orderly manner, and
very cloe to each other, and are kept with great neatnes. The gar
dens of the principal gentlemen, and merchants here reident, are
without the fortiications; and being as well exceeding rich, as
beautiied with great art, add a noble Ornament to the place.

THE vniverity is in a ourihing ate, and has a true tae

of polite literature, epecially as to philoophical udies. Tho I
know not whether they merit that character with regard to ela
ical learning. It is not now o numerous as formerly ; becaue
Hall, which within thee ten years has been erected into an uni
verity bl the King of Prna, depriving them of their numbers,
has reduced them perhaps from three to one thouand udents.
They have ix colleges, called Paulinam, Petrinam, Major-am and
Minorum Principam, Rabrnm, and B. Mariae Virgin's. Each of
thee have their praepoitns, and ome few ipends. But when
we mention academical colleges abroad, we mu fall much be
low the idea of thoe, with which we are o happily acquainted at
Oxford and Cambridge. In thee colleges are their auditories, or
chools, of public lectures for Philoophy, and the three uperior
faculties. Thee are regularly taught by their repective profeors,
of which the Univerity is furnihed with ix in divinity, five in
law, four in phyic, and nine in Philoophy, humanity, and hi
ory. Beides thee, everal of the more eminent doctors, and elder
udents, have their private lectures, to which the younger reort
at their pleaure, and this with greater frequency and better uc
ces, than to the lectures publicly eablihed. The degrees in philo
ophy are that of batchelor and maer of arts; in the faculties,
of licentiate and doctor. Perons of note in the univerity, whom
I viited, were Dr. Ecke Profeor of divinity; and Dr. Otzo
Menc/oenias profeor of moral Philoophy, who is likewie the edi
tor
 to HoLLAND, and thence toENGLAND. 14.;"
tor of the Aa Ernditornm, of which I purchaed an intire et
from the year 16 82. to this preent time,_con1ing of twenty ve
volumes in gnarto. Other eminent perons, with whom I,had
a more frequent converation, were Dr. Goe'tze, Dr. Menc/oeniar
janior,and
ilaw, andthe
Mr.latter
Olearinsjanior. The two former
Profeor of humanity. are Imay
To thee doctorsadd
of

Mr. 'Thomas Fritel bookeller, a peron who has made an ueful

tour over Europe; peaks everal modern languages, as well as
Latin; and to whomI was obliged for a particular mark of
courtey, and the preent of everal ueful books. Not only he, but
the three gentlemen la mentioned peak good Englih, which
language is much eeemed and udied in this place. Dr. Men
e/oenins hewed me the little work of Alcyonins De exilio, which I
was glad to ee, becaue it is aid to have been compiled out of
Cicero's treatie De gloria; which the plagiary for that reaon took
occaion to uppres. Dr. Goe'tze among everal fair manucripts,
and old editions of claiic authors, hewed me a neat but antient
atyr On the Pope and Court of Rome. It is a manucript, as
yet unprinted, in Elegiac vere, entitled Eironeia Ganfridi. He
has alo a curious and fair manucript of Colnmella, another
of a Greek Menologion, a very old Greek Teament, printed in
Spain, with the Latin in the margin; but exactly referring in
every word by cautious notes from the known to the un
known language, le the monks of that time hould have taken
yeve'oewc to ignify liaer, and BZCM; generationis. In another
old Spanih book, concerning the antiquities of that country,
he hewed me a copy of the old Gothic character; in which it is
obervable, that the vowels are generally incorporated with the
cononants, which they follow.

IN the two libraries of this place, the one belonging to the unj
verity, the other to the enate, Itook notice of the following
curioities.
IN the formerl oberved two celebrated pictures of Lnt/oer and
lwelanctbon, both taken after their death. Several pecimens of
what they called moneta bracteata, lately found in Saxony; but
which I take to have been only leaves of ilver covering a mas of
inferior metal. An old manucript of Homer, with large Sc/oolia,
which they here think have never been publihed. The draught
of an old idal worhiped in Germany ; the original of which was
a hort
5
144. A JOURNEY om ADRIANOPLE
a hort bras image of an human gure, hollow within, and con
trived to make an articial wind iue out of his mouth, like the
globes of that ort now become o common.
lN the library of the enate I oberved an Egyptian mammy.
Several Roman arns and funeral lamps. Saxon urns, like others
which I oberved at Drea'en and elewhere, full of thin fragments
of bones; in one of which were found everal mall iron and bras
inruments, and upon a thin plate of bras the two following let
ters, (0. e. Aine collection of coins. A good manucript ofTheocri
tas. A noble pecimen of the rich ilver mines in Saxony, in a mas
about three feet long and two broad, the whole of which almo is
pure metal. *

AD JOlNING to the Colleginm Paalinam is the univerity church,

where they have prayers on feival days. It is full of antient and
modern monuments, all of good work. This Univerity took
its rie from the diperion of the Hites, and the banihment
of_7ohn Hah himelf from Pragae. And by its ir Conitution
it is appropriated to four nations; the Mi nians (of whom Leip/ich
is the metropolis) the other hereditary countries of the Elector of
Saxony, the Bavarians, and the Poles. T/he chief magirate an
nually elected here is called rector magniicas, as in other German
univerities ,- and in him, with his ubordinate ocers, res the ole
government and juridiction of this learned body. The preent
rector is Dr. Cyprianns, profeor of divinity.

I'r was in Leipich, that l r oberved the Lutheran manner

of communicating. The prie and the deacon, who ais him,
are habited in urplices, copes, and leeves, like thoe of the Greeks
and Romanis. The ervice is chanted by the pries anding, and
the people round about at a diance, but in the ame poure.
The conecration being ended, the communicants draw near, and
on the north ide of the altar approach the prie, who delivers into
the mouth of each of them ill anding the conecrated wafer,
The communicants from thence walk round the back part of the
altar, and o come to the deacon, from whom they likewie and
ing receive the cup, and thence return orderly to their proper
places. In the mean time, while the pecies are delivered by the
prie on one ide and the deacon on the other, two choriers
habited likewie in copes and urplices attend each, holding un
der them a rich pall of velvet, or other u, to receive any par
ticle
 to HOLI-LAND, and thence to ENGLAND. 145
ticle of the elements, which may fall accidentallyx This done, they
likewie chant a thankgiving ervice in a anding poure, and o
depart. The eccleiaics of the place wear large white rus, not
only in time of divine ervice, but likewie as their ordinary ha
bit when in public ; and with this a round cloth cap, like that
lately alloted to the commoners in the univerity of Oxford.

THESE are the principal Obervations I had leiure to make at

Leipiok, where his Excellency aid from the ixth to the four
teenth of this month. On this day therefore we proceed on out
journey ive German miles to Hall over an open arable country.
This is an antient city, founded and perfected by the everal
Oz/5os, Emperors of Germany. It is now large, but meanly built,
tho famous for its alt pits, from whence it has the name of Hall.
In thee they work night and day with an uninterrupted diligence,
not ever ceae, but in the time of divine ervice on Sundays. It
is ituated on the river Sala, which name correponds with that of
the city.

THE King of Praa, as has been aid, Sovereign of the place,

opened an univerity here ome years ince, which at preent ou
rihes with about a thouand udents,_ and everal profeors of
eminent note, among thee are Stryc/oias, T/oomaias, and Franctins.
The la is the peron, who ent me formerly into Turkey everal
little tracts of his own Compoition, which had been tranlated in
to Latin and Italian, in order to be diributed here. lthere
fore viited him this evening, and dicoured with him upon his
famous project of an ample charity; by which he maintains above
ix hundred children of both exes, and that by no other fund,
than collections gathered by his own indury. Three hundred
of thee, being boys, he has reduced to a college, which he now
calls the Orp/oanotrop/oiam. It is an handome building, well con
trived for the reception of o many poor orphans, for their diet,
lodging, chooling, clothing, and afterwards their removal to ome
proper calling. He has here a printing houe for the ue of the o
ciety, and from thence have now been publihed everal treaties,
of which he preented me with two, concerning the Jewib hiory,
and the eccleiaical government of Bohemia. The King of Pra
ia, who is thought the principal upporter of this great charity,
has lately authorized the Orp/oanotropbium under an ample patent,
and allowed both the ociety, and the founder of it, everal honou
Pp rable
I46 A JOURNEY from ADRIANOPLE
rable_ and advantageous privileges. By this great undertaking
Mr. Franch propoes to lay a cheme and foundation for the re
formation of manners, and better advancement of learning at the
ame time. But as he is one of the primary Pietis in all Ger
many, the oppoite party among the Lutherans in thee parts,
who in diinction call themelves the Orthodox, ceae not to calum
niate both him and his deign. Tho how july, God only knows.
He delivered me a packet for Mr. Ladol, and commioned me
to alute Dr. Bray, and Mr. Woodward of Stepney, with whom he
correponds in relation to this intended reformation.

DECEMBER xv.
FROM Hall we now pas t'o Koendern, and by the way cros
the Sala in a ferry boat at Alleher, leaving Eiehen, 'the birth
place
we of Luther,
continue a 'little on
our journey theKo'endern
from right hand. The day following
to Aehe'tehen, leaving
Paidleharg in ight on the left hand. And the next day we move
forward to Halheiadt, paing from Upper into Lower Saxony
in this day's journey. Hdlher'adt is a large town, ubject to the
Kiiig of Prna, having 'about fourteen churches, which are pretty
equallyldivided betwixt Proteants and Papis.

lDE c E M BE R xviii.
THis day we leaveiHalheradt and proceed to Heen, a mall
village belonging to Rodolphas Angn/lm, Duke of Branwich; who
'has here an old moted houe, with a pleaant garden, and a foun
tain of bras work, which for the variety of animals there artfully
repreented, and the device of the whole, deerves to' be remarked.
We continue here the two'following days, and then Pet out for
Wolemhntel, where we arrive at night, and lodge in the uburbs.

D E'M B E R xxii.
His Excellency 'tlepartcdthis morning from lolemhatel with
a deign to go direct-lyto'Hildcheim ; upon'which I deire leave
to take 'a'dierent road, in orderto fee Branwich, Hanotzer, and
"Hamharg. ' Howeverl'pent this day-at lolrmhnte/g i'n oberving
what was' curious there.
THE
5
_ ___<___,_ ___ _ .

to HOLLAND, and thence to ENGLAND. 147

THE town is pleaantly eated on the river Ocher, in a place not

o intirely level as the other parts of Lower Saxony, but enjoying a
variety of riing and declining ground, with a convenient mixture
of woods, which hitherto we oberved to be intirely wanting from
Leipichto this place. The city is compactly built, has fair and
large reets, tho no very ately edices, and is well fortiied
with a regular wall, and a double fos. It has two remarkable
churches, one of which is the cathedral, an old Gothic building,
adorn-ed with a variety of culpture and atues ; and the other is
a new church, lately erected by the preent Duke of this place,
in a peculiar form. It has an acent at the front by a handome
aircae-on two ides, and then opens into a perfect oval, which
is upported 'by-ix 'ately pillars, and covered with a cupola.
Directly 'facing the door is a piece of good work in culpture,
repreenting the Virgin, and other religious gures; and under
this ain a 'mall Orbicular dek, which appears as an Ornament of
the work, is een the pulpit. Underneath is a table of wood, et
o diinct rfrom the wall, that it cannot properly be called an al
tar, and-atzeach end are two shigh eps for the kneeling of the
communicants. FontherLutherans, who in ome places commu
nicate anding, do'the ame in others kneeling; and the notion
-'of an altar, with the poure -of receiving, are in their opinion
things indierent. The:cale o'f this place (which alone is pro
iperlyvlolemhateviscju without-the wall of the city, and is the
reidencesof the Duke. He has here an academy for the ue of
young gentlemenvofall'nations, where they are inructed in the
arts of fencing, riding, dancing, and other exercies. But what
immoremarkable, in the precincts of-the cale is the celebrated
vlibrary,2founded by'Chri/iianas ngaas, the father of this Prince.
It conis of two large and patious galleries, ranged all round
with. books, and illed in the middle with a double row of deks,
zwhichlinthe inner gallery likewie contain helves for books of
leer volumes. It' was collected with great aiduity, and at a
va expence, by the aid Prince; who himelf employed his pains
'intirely'inr this deign, and wrote' the everal catalogues digeed
in- various orders, and coniing of eight volumes in folio, with his
own hand. iThe preent l'ibrarian is- the famous-Mr. Leihnitz, who
--at this time Hid. not reide- upon the-v place; but an aant of his
Phewed the library,-zand oberved to: me the following curioities.
fA collection of printed-'B'ihlegr the large and mo curious, which
are
\
r48 A JOURNEY from ADRIANOPLE
are any where to be found. A large manucript Engli o Bible in
ix/in, which eems very antient and begins thus: In t/Je ere made
God of nong/ot z/oe loevens and 'be ery, and t/Je ei'y forhot/o was vein
and oejyd, and dail-nefres weren upon the face of t/oe zee. At the
bottom of the r page is wrote Lumley in later characters. A
manucript Greek 'Te/lament; and two printed copies, one of Al
dns and the other at Hagenoa, in which is wanting' that famous
teimony of St. _7o/on concerning the three, that bear witnes in
heaven. An antient manucript of St. Jerome-'s Bible, written
about our hundred years ince, by one who ubcribes himelf
mea; Gaui'idus Vitulus ; and at the end of the ame has delineated
himelf, with the head of a calf. A manucript rietloiopic 'Te/la
ment, given by father Kzrc/oer to the founder of the library. A
copy of the Palms, written in thoe characters, which are called
Ciceroniani, and Cyprianiei. A voluminous collection of modern
Izories, in four hundred manucript volumes in olio; among
which arethirteen called Cloroniques d' ngleterre. The whole
number co the Duke two thouand four hundred crowns; but
it is thought, hot-purchaed them much to dear. A fair turning
dek with ix leaves, like thatbefore decribed in the Praemon
ratenian library at Prague. ,_A fair Heraal, with each ower de
lineated in its proper colours. .: A roll of the Pentateuc/o, and a
vail now ued by the Jews in reading the Law. Several reliques of
Luther, as his poon, drinkingglas, leaden inkbottle, and a Let
ter in his own hand to one of his contemporary bihops, in which
he ends the alutes of his wife in thee words: Salutat ze, Dominus
meus, Kezba reoerenzer. Two books written by Prince Chriian
himelf, founder of the library: one De Iudo cacc/oia, in the
German language; the other in olio, called Cryptograpbia, treat
ing of cyphers and other ecret devices, in the title of which he
calls himelf Guavus Selenus, meaning Auguus Luneourgicus.
A air edition of the tra/gate Latin Bible byA/dus at Venice, which
reads in Genes iii. 1 5, lpum conteret Caput tuum, inead of the
uual ipa.

THE preent Duke ntonius Ulricus, and his brother Rudol

p/ous Auguus, who reides at Brunwick, have the title of Brun
wiek and Lunenburg in common with their elde brother the Duke
of Zell, and their nephew the Duke of Hano'ver. But their pro
per government is the territory of Brunwick and Wolemautel,
which they govern by joint name and authority, both being equally
overeign
 ----.

to HOLLAND, andthence toENGLAND- '49

fovereign in each. Rndolphns is about eventy two years of age,
plain and unaffected in his carriage, inomuch that ometimes he
takes a private journey to Hamhnrg, where he walks the reets
in the diguie of a country gentleman. But Antonias is a more
polite and accomplihed prince, aecting the French behaviour
and education; for which end he here maintains the academy
above mentioned. He is courtly, and condecending, and greatly be
loved by his ubjects. He is now about ixty three years of age, and
has two ons ; of which he, who hall live to be his heir, will
jointly inherit the authority and dominions both of his father and
uncle Rndolphns.

DECEMBER xxiii.
THIS morningI take the po waggon (or Branwich, which is
eated on the ame river as ld/olemhntel, in a watry plain, having
a large extent, but narrow reets, and houes of the old fahion
almo intirely of wood, mo of which have a date over the door
of three or four hundred years anding. The adthoue is of
the ameor greater antiquity, and adorned with a variety of a
tues on thenor
regularity outide. The 'The
rength. towncale
is fortied, but neither
is the reidence of with reat
the [fit-ilke,

being an old decayed building. I aid here from nine in the

morning till three in the afternoon, where I found the mum, for
which this place is 'o celebrated, not o good, as that they
export for ale. It is made only df malt well 'breW-Cd, and the
liquor boiled a econd time in an equal quantity of the ame.
However the art is peculiar to this place, and cannotxbeim'itatetl
atId/olfemhatel, tho it is o very near. Nor, on the other hand, can
the excellent beer of Walfemhtltel be equa'l'd here. They are '
likewie famous foralarge ortof auage, which is made of_raw
meat and pices.

ATanthree
with a clock
intention, as is[depart
here thefor Ham-ver travel_al_l,ni_ght.
cuom,.to by the .way of "In Peine,
the
way betwixt even and eighta clock (which at this time' of the year
had been entirely dark, unlesfor thebcnet of the moon) the
po hores tired in an openfeild, and refued to ir a 'ep 'far
ther; by which means -,we were detained above an'hour, iill the
poilion procured others 'from a neighbouring village, I was
then in company of an Italian man and a French woman', whoe
Qq company
 ;-15o AJOURNEYom ADRIANOPLE
company fomewhat relieved the aiction. of this accident. B'y'
twelve a clock We reach Peine, and after half an hour's refrefh
ment the Italian and I proceed for Hanover, thro a wide and
watry common.

DECEM'BER xxiv.
BY eight a clock this morning I arrive at Hanover, where I
wait on Mr. Crt, and his Chaplain Mr. Lomhard. And being
invited by the former to diner, we no ooner rie from table, but
news was brought, that my Lord Paget, having changed his mind,
had turned out of the road for Helztcheim to this place,- to whom
therefore] repair at his lodgings without the gate of the city.

DECEMBER xxv.
THO this was Chri/tmas day, his Excellency had nevertheles
no ervice in his family. And the day following I made a viit to
Mr. Scott, Sir Chumley Deering, Mr. Wright, and ome others.
The next day being Sunday, his Excellency had ervice in his fa
mily .At ve a clock in the eveninglwas introduced by Mr. Scott,
and lady Belmont, to kis the hand of the Princes Dowager Sap/ofa,
who did me the honour to dicoure with me half an hour about
the ate of Turkey. The ame night a tragedy was acted at the
theatre ofthe court, and afterwards the Mariage force of Moliere;
which I then aw, for the opportunity of eeing at the ame time
the Prince Elector, the Prince his on, and the Princes his daugh
ter, with the Electres Dowager, who were all preent.

DECEMBER xxviii.
HIS Excellency proceeds in his way to O/naharg ; but I con
tinue ill at Hanover, with an intention to take po for Ham
hurg, and dine this day with Mr. Creet. The day following in the
afternoon Iviit the library and cabinet of Abbot Gerhardnr, other
wie called Molanas. His cabinet conis of a va collection of
modern coins, particularly thoe of Germany, among which he
_ ._ _ ._ ._
has vintire ets of the houes of Branwich and J'axony. He has
likewie arich and numerous collection of medals of all the Euro
pean kingdoms, ampt upon the mo celebrated occaions;
and many of them are i gold, ome of which weigh
an hun
dred
4 .
 to HoLLAND, andthenee toENGLANo. 15t
dred ducats, and others but little les. Thoe of Sweden eemed
to me the noble both for the work and device, particularly one
of Gua'vus Adolphus, upon marching his army over the frozen
Baltic/i, with this incription: NATURA Hoc DEBVIT VNI. Ano
ther of Charles the eleventh, with the revere of the North ar,
and incribed: NESCIT OCCASVM. Thoe of the houe of Ha
no'ver are likewie curious, particularly one of the Princes Dowa
ger, ampt by her about fourteen years ince; the revere a in
etting without a cloud, and the words: d'enza turharmi al in
m' aecoo. Another of the young Prince George Auguus, the re
vere a fountain pringing up in a rong perpendicular column of
water, with this legend: vrs lNSlTA DVCIT lN ALTVM. Beides
thee he has a good collection of antient medals ,- the mo re
markable of which were Yulianus the r; and ntinous of the
r ize, if genuine, the revere a heep.

BY eleven aclock this night I depart in the po waggon for

Zell, and in the way make thee Obervations on Hanooer, and
the peronsl aw there. The town is moderately large, fair, and
compact, eated on the Leine, and reaonably well fortied. The
palace of the Prince is old, and mean in outward appearance, but
within beautiful and plendid. The clergy here is but meanly
eeemed, and more meanly provided for; except that Abbot
Gerhardus has an income (the ole remainder of church lands not
equeered) to the yearly value of eight hundred pounds erling.
By this preferment he is uperintendant of the whole clergy in the
territories of the Duke of Brunwich Hanover, and is by the ame
incapable of marrying. The Elector is a age, dicreet, ju, and
ober Prince. The Princes his mother is courteous, aable, con
decending, and prudent; well vered in the Dutch, Englih,
French, and Italian languages; and gay and vigorous to a mi
racle at the age of eventy two. The young Prince is brik, aa
ble, and ingenious. The Princes, daughter to the Elector, comely,
ingenious, lively, and her courteous behaviour charms all, who
convere with her. Mr. Crcet, who has long reided as Envoy
to this court, and thoe of Zell, Brunwich, and Wolfemhutel, is a
wie and pious gentleman, has a family well governed, and lives
much to the honour of himelf and his country.

DECEM
152. A JoURNEY-orn ADRIANOPLE

DECEMBER xxx.
BY even a clock this morning I arrive at Zell, where I remain
the re of the day, and take that opportunity of eeing the:
cale ; as likewie the venerable old Duke, William George, now
eighty years of age; to whom I was admitted by the favour of Mr.
Rohheton and Mr. De la Fore, two gentlemen who here hewed
me great civility.

DECEMBER xxxi.
I SET forward from Zell, and lodge this night 'at 'a po houe,
in a mall village called Sorndorf. The country is here pleaant,
with a variety of r, oak, and other wood, but for the mo part
barren, and overrun, with heath.

JANUARYi.
FROM Sorndoif I reach Harhnrg by twelve a clock this day,
dine there, and then take boat for Hamharg cros the L'Zzz
The river is here above a German mile broad, and interpered
with various ilands. In the evening I delivered Mr. Ure-t's To.
commendations to Mr. Alderfey, who'thereupon received me 'cour
teouly, and procured me a good lodging 'from Mr. Townly in'he
Englih houe. I was detained hereto the twenty 'eighth of til-tis
month, partly by the extremity of the fro, which had made the
Elhe now unpaable; and partly by 'the Ikinclrrels of our Englih
merchants, who reide in this place.

HAMBURG is a free 'imperial*city, 'dhidf of tlheIHan/e towne,

and eated on the north ide of the *'Elhe,'where iitzre'eeittes The
ler. The gure of it is emicireu'la'r, 'being almo traight 'to
wards the Elhe, which it receives many chanel-s iinto the very
heart of the city. Some of theh'c-Han'els-ewe as Fharbors lto 'the
hips, others to convey goodsto themagazines-dflmierehan'ts,'and
others to bring water to 'the "houes, ipar-ticularl-y (of-the brewers,
who have cr'anes'to draw water intotheir'vehls. lltlis-ttboutftwo
Italian miles in length, and above livetin Circumference. The
reets are well paved, tho narrow, and the houes beautiful in the
front, epecially in the Wantrnm, the Green, and Catherine reet.
Tlxe-fortications are ubantial, coniing intirely of ramparts of
2 earth,
 to HOLLAND, and thence to ENGLAND. 153
earth, covered with gras, and not faced with brick. They are
conantly maintained in good repair; tho it is commonly ob
jected to them, that the inward works are too high, o that being
raied too much above the outward, they are expoed to the r
attack of the enemy. There are ix gates, all beautiful and ately
buildings; that particularly, which is called the gate of Alle-na,
becaue it leads to that place, is aid to have co an hundred
thouand crowns. The rength of the city was lately tried, in the
year 1686 (lf I miake not) by the King of Denmark, who then
laid iege to it, tho without ucces. He had depended upon
the treachery of two principal burgers, who had promied to ad
mit him into the town; but their treaon being accidentally detect
ed, and they put to the torture, the matter was oon confeed,
and they deervedly executed. The head of one of them is ill
expoed on an iron pike over the Steingate. ln condence of this
concerted treachery that Prince came o unprovided, that he could
inve no more of the town, than that which faces Altena which
gave occaion to the Holland gazeteer to ay, that the King of
Denmark had beieged the eighth part of Hamharg. During the
iege he was baed even by the mall cale, called Sternfort,
about a mile diant from the town; which by a line ofcommuni
cation they releived every day at twelve a clock, and o main
tained it again the enemy. To add to the rength of the city
_ they are now building a new detached work, coniing of an in
tire rampart, to be continued from the ea ide of the Al/Zer to
the Elhe, which is a noble fortication, and will at the ame time
guard and enlarge the pace of the city. It is divided into the
New and the Old City, the former of which is the more ately
and beautiful of the two.

THE religion of this place is Lutheran, in which the govern

ment is o rict, as to admit of no other religious aembly, ex
cept that of the church of England, which is allowed to the En
glih company. The city is divided into ive parihes, that of St.
Catharine, St. Peter, St. James, St. Nicholas, and St. John. To
each of thee are dedicated o many fair and patious churches, all
well adorned with culptures, paintings, organs, and altars. That
of St. Catharine exceeds the re, and is particularly remarkable
for a noble one pulpit, the whole coniing of the be marble,
carved into the gures of the twelve Apoles, and other religious
devices ; vfor everal large inimitable pieces of painting in jreco
R r i again
 I54 A joURNEY om ADRIANOPLE
again the north wall; and for a ately organ, uppoed to be.
the large and ne in the world. It has fty four ops, and
conis of ve thouand pipes, all gradually proportioned from
the bigge, which is three fourths of an Englih yard in diameter,
to the lea, no larger than the la joint of ones little nger. In
the ame church is admirably well painted the Temple of Solomon
in perpective. Beides thee parih churches, there is the cathedral,
commonly there called the Dome; and a new church in the middle
of the New City. The Dome is now almo out of ue, except for
ome occaional ermons; and the porch, with the everal iles, are
poeed by bookellers hops: tho this is what is likewie common
to the porches, and other outward apartments, of the mo fre
quented churches. The ve parih churches, and that of the New
City, have each of them their paor, and beides him two or three
chaplains 3 o that the number of clergymen here amounts to above
twenty, of which one is uperintendant over them, and the clergy
of the whole territory. This however is very mall, as not reach
ing down the river E/he farther than the limits of ri'ltena, a
large town within half a mile of Hamhurg, belonging to the King
of Denmark. On the other ides it is encompaed with the do
minions of the Duke ofHol/Zein, at the diance of two or three
miles; only up the Elhe it has a narrow tract of ground ubject to
_. . - . _ ..v the city, for the pace of twenty miles, in which are ome mall
villages, that acknowledge its juridiction. The church lands be
longing to the cathedral are now poeed by burgers, or others
of the city 3 but under the ame titles, by which they formerly be
longed to the church, as dean, canons, and others. Which eque
ration, as it eems to be a acrilegious uurpation; o their con
tinuing the right under the ame titles, is only a monument and
confelion of the crime.

THE government of the city is by a free and overeign juridi

ction of their own, which is lodged in three orders of men, the
'burgomaers, the enate, and the burgers. The burgoma
ers are four perons choen out of the enate, of which two are
yearly regent. The enate conis of about twenty, choen as
vacancies happen out of the burgers. The burgers compoe the
whole body of the citizens, ranked under their ve diinct parihes.
This government omewhat reembles that of antient Rome, by
conuls, enate, and people; and is excellent in itelf, but very
'liable to be perverted by the prevalency of any of the parts, of
which
 to HOLLAND, amltlreme to ENGLAND. frsg
which it conis. This is at preent een in the cae of Hamburg,
where the burgers by reaon of their multitude, and the edi-_
tious pirit of inferior perons, have o far uurped the power of
the place, that they terrify the enate, and op all public pro
ceedings, which are not to their relih. Particularly they are now
o obinate, as to refue their conent to the upply towards the
war, required by the Emperor, and to other public levies of the
city, till they can extort the conent of the cnate for reoring
one Dr. [Weyer to his paoral oce of St James. This is a violent
editious man, upected of an ill lie, but of a ready overhearing
eloquence in the pulpit; who about ve years ince had quitted
his paoral oce in Hamburg, for another like charge, and u
perintendency in Pomerania. His parihioners now recall him to
his cure at Hamburg, which he publicly declines; but privately
encourages, and thereby occaions a lamentable faction and edi
tion in the town. His own and two other parihes pres his return,
and refue to treat of other buines, till the enate hall conent
thereto. But they being duly cautious of admitting o dangerous
a peron into the city, who is now more particularly upected of
intriguing again them in dependance on the King of Sweden,
will never admit thereof; epecially as he inis upon returning
in his ownin rank,
obtained and in propect o the ame eniority, he before
the place. i

THE burgomaers of this place never appear in public, but

in a peculiar dres; which conis of an high crowned hat made
of cloth, plated thick and rong in numerous folds; with a
large ru, and ablack velvet coat ending at the knees, and plaited
from the middle. There are likewie everal other antient ha
bits ued by all public perons, even to midwives, dreers of the
dead, and thoe who bear the corps to funerals. The habit of
their divines is a round black cap, a ru, and a gown without \
eeves. All thee may commonly be een at once in the olem
nity of a funeral, which they here aect to make very pompous
for all perons, even thoe of little children. The burgoma
ers, enators, divines, lawyers, Phyicians, and as many of all
orts, as they can procure, attend the corps from the houe to the
church; for which they are each paid a certain fee, the chief about
a florin, and ineriors proportionably. It is obervable, that the
beaters of the corps have a peculiar ep, all moving their leg at
the ame time crowie from one de to the other.
THlS
 I56 A JOURNEY from ADRIANOPLE
THIs city wholly ubis by trade, which it ill enjoys to a great
degree. But they now complain, that they begin to be robbed of
their former flourihing Commerce by Lahech and Bremen, and
even the poor town of ltena, which with regret they ee riing
under their walls. Here is the aple of linen from Germany ;
cloth from England; and wines from Spain, France, and the
Rhine. Of this la the city preerves a va ock in public
cellars ; the large of which, being a magazine of Rhenih wine, I
viited one evening, and was there aured, that they have the
wine of every year ince r6z3; and accordingly we then drank
of three orts, 162z, r664, and 1678. At the fame time I
tried the perfect clearnes of the loaf ugar of this place; which
they purify to uch a degree, that it does not dicolour the cleare
Rhenih wine.

THE Englih company, which upon the decay of Antwerp

removed to this place, is a regular, gentile, and hopitable ociety
of merchants. They were here granted large privileges, which they
ill enjoy ; tho at home our Englih parliament has lately infringed
thoe, which they had permitted them. Their goods from England
are imported free of cuom, except that they pay a triHe as an
acknowledgement. Their own juridiction, and religion, is freely
granted them. The town r preented them with a large piece
of building, which they obliged themelves to keep in perpetual
repair. In this there is a public chapel; and an apartment, which
they call the Ordinary room, where all the company, who are un
married, dine and up at one table, and the deputy governor and
aants meet upon public occaions. Adjoining to it is the houe
of the deputy governor, the minier, and the ecretary ; all like
wie given by the town, and maintained by them. The gover
nor of this company at preent reides in England; but the other
ocers, as the deputy governor, ecretary, and aants, to the
number of twenty four, are all reident upon the place, and di
patch all buines relating to the ociety; which is contrary to the
cuom of the Turkey company, the governing part whereof always
-Q*'
reides in England. The deputy governor and ecretary are choen,
or conrmed, either quarterly or yearly; and the ame is practied
with the minier, whoe alary, beides the benet of an houe,
is two hundred pounds a year. The number of merchants, ai
ants, and others, may here amount from thirty to forty perons;
and with their wives, children, and ervants, their congregation
2, _ (which
 w- vi

is
to Ho LLAND, andthence toENoLAND. 157
(which is very regular) is een on Sunday from an hundred and
fty to two hundred perons. My converation during my ay
at Hamhurg was chiefly among thee; and I had more particu
larly the freindhip of Mr. Free, deputy governor; Mr. Alderey,
ecretary 5 Mr.Emeron, minier; Mr. Stratford, Manning, Le
thieullier, and Remington merchants ; and their repective families.
I preached every Sunday, whileI continued here ; and received
many tokens of favour from the whole company; particularly on
the ixteenth of January, a preent of a ilver tankard, value forty
crowns. At the ame time I had the honour of being known to Mr.
Wyat, her Majey's reident at this place, and deputed likewie
to the Hane towns of Bremen and Luhech.

THERE is a good and well furnihed library belonging to this

city, which adjoins to the church of St. John. And during my
ay here I had the opportunity of convering with _7o. Alhertus
Fahricius, a peron of great learning, and famous for ome works
he has already publihed. Iviited likewie [lynheier Langerman,a
druggi, who hewed me ome curious ores; and pieces of eight,
hed up from a Spanih wreck; with the piedra de puerco, about
the ize of a large nutmeg, which is found in the bladder of ome
hogs in the Philippine iands, a great udoric, and eeemed a
overeign remedy again intermitting fevers. One one is uually
valued at a hundred ducats.

THE night I viited the wine cellar at Mr. Manning's houe,

we aw a man, named George Po, born at Prague, who eat raw
fleh, glas, paper, and above all things raw ax and tow, which
he devoured very greedily, and called it his chief delicacy. He
likewie wallows large ones, and accuoms himelf to devour all
unnatural ubances, even perukes; tho of this la he is now
omewhat cautious, ince his twin brother died by eating one at
Halher/Zadt. A enatorjs wife of this city maintains an opera houe,
where they have a prodigious large age, and great variety of
well painted cenes. Here Mr. Lethieullier one night entertained
us to our great atisfaction. At the ame place, and belonging to
the ame woman, is hewn the famous model of'Solomon's Temple,
being the exact reemblance of that fabric, as decribed by the be
authors, expreed in every part by carved Wood work to the hight
of an Englih yard, and all the inward apartments perfectly ex
hibited. to the eye, as the workman takes it to pieces for the a
' S' tisfaction
I58 A JOURNEY -0mADR1ANoPLE
tisfaction of the pectators. This ingenious machine co no les
than ten thouand dollars.
THE inhabitants of Hamburg are cenured as proud, formal,
and ceremonious ; the magirates as addicted to vice, libertinim,
and elf intere; and the people as turbulent, and editious ;
whence many prognoicate ill to the trade, and future power of
the city. The language, which they here peak, is called the
Plat Dutch, being a medium betwixt that of Germany and Hol
land.
DURING my ay here, I was informed of a deteable practice,
frequent among many melancholy and diordered perons of this
place; who being weary of life, and apprehenive of the in of
elf murder, rather chooe to murder ome innocent child, and
by that means to be brought to capital punihment, by which they
attain their deire of death, with the advantage, as they imagine,
of a previous time for repentance, without the guilt of their own
hand. At the ame time they eeem the child, whom they chooe
to acrice, to be without any guilt of concience, as having not
yet arrived to years of dicretion '. This tragedy happens every
year, as many experienced witnees among our merchants aured
me ; and they attribute the frequency of the practice to the great
facility of their confeors, in aording peace and fair promies to
all orts of dying penitents.

ANOTHER tragedy lately acted at Hamburg was of a monrous

Virago, born in the dukedom of Zell, who by an unnatural di
poition of her uterine parts was capable of acting the part of a
man ; and accordingly he made it her practice in rambling from
place to place to marry at each a young woman, everal of whom
he had murdered. With her la poue, whom he had let into
all her myerious impiety, he murdered one of her former wives;
aslikewie a man, whom they had cajoled for ometime into their
company, and whoe head they afterwards boiled for venefical ues,
as they pretended. But being caught and tortured, they confeed
this black hiory of their life, and were executed here about a
year ince.
THE campain about the neighbourhood of Hamburg is green,
and well diinguihed with wood and hade, but at a farther
* See an inance of this in Sweden, reported in the Huetiamz, p. 124. N. LIV.
diance,
 to HOLLAND, andthence MENGLAND. 159
diance, like other parts of Lower Saxony, it is a dull and un
fruitful heath. The immediate circuit of the walls aords deli
cious walks, all kept in good repair, and adorned on each ide
with rows of trees, kept in a beautiful order. Sometime after we
had received the account of the capture of the Spanih galleons at
Vigo, happening to have a leiure hour, I amued myelf in writ
ing the following hort poem upon that agreable ubject.

Erit altera, quae vehat Argo

Delectos heroas. Virg. Ecl. iv. X', 34..
Hactenas Argoos cecinzi, Graecia, nautas,
Et rudis aethereo pinns in axe micat ;
Altera Britannas nunc implet [heria puppes,
Terrague Phrixeam Cantahra mittit ovem.
Alter es Aee'tes, Lodoix, vinctugue opore
Aeterno eipens Gallica clas erit.
Aeoniden, Ormonde, refers; et forte puella,
Quae tihi Medeam pracet, Ihera fuit.
At quantum Argolicae praeluxerit Angla juventae,
Sit memor aeterno carminefama logui.
Unica tanc unam decoravit praeda carinam;
Millia nunc referunt vellera mille rates.
Anna, parens orhis, pretioam carpere lanam
Incipe, et aaguaila novare manu ;
Protinns optato avecent aecla metallo,
Et uet e fuis aurea vita tuis.

JANUARY xxviii.
RESOLVING at la to take leave of my good friends at Ham
hurg, lllynheer Platia, with two other merchants, and myelf,
hire a po waggon for Holland. We et forward by even a clock
in the morning, and continue our way two German miles up the
river, by the village of Ohney to Blanhenes; there we cros the
E/he, and proceed to a town called Buxtchude in the dominion of
ti'vveden, and by night arrive at a poor houe in the wood called
Arnwoldt. Here we drive in with our waggon, and alight at the
ame room, which was to receive us and our hores, and be at the
ame time our chamber and parlour, and the kitchin of our old
landlady, '
 I6o A JOURNEY om ADRIANOPLE
landlady, who was moked like a ham of bacon. We found her
with her houhold, brooding over a re hearth in the middle of
this apartment, common to her elf and cattle. Over which there
was no chimney, but a wooden rack well ored with bacon,
where the moke was employed to prepare the proviion of the
year, without waing itelf at the funnel of a chimney. We are
laid on a large heap of raw ', whil the cows are chewing the
cud on each ide, and lulling us to leep. It was here I r aw
the black bread of this country, called honpournichel; and was told,
that this with plenty of wines eh, and the thick water of this
at country, were the only dainties of the place. However, it
was out good fortune not to be reduced to that diet ; for we
fared well on our hamper, which we brought with us from Ham
hurg.

' JANUARY xxix.

LEAVING this diagreable place very early, we arrive at the
gates of Bremen late at night, and are therefore obliged to lodge in
the uburbs, till we could enter the town the next morning. It
is a large and fair city, free of the empire, and one of the mo
coniderable Hane towns, eated on the Weer, or Vihrgisq Here
we baited at the wine cellar over again the Exchange, where
there is a magazine of good Rhenih, inferior in nothing but the
quantity of Veels, and largenes of the ock, to that of Ham
hurg. We then proceed by nine a clock (after I had viited Mr.
Willet, an Englih merchant) and on the farther ide of the town
cros the river under a noble gate, which in an incription calls
this VETVSTISSIMVS VlSVRGIS TRAIECTVS. TheWehr is here fair,
wide, and almo raight, aording a reception for the Veels be
longing to the town; but thoe of a greater burthen are obliged
to remain ome leagues lower. At this river we now leave Lower
Saxony, and enter the circle of Wephalia. In an hour and a half
we come to Delmenhor, an old town and cale belonging to the
King of Denmark. From thence we proceed to lildehuen, a
town in the dominion of the Elector of Hanooer, where we
lodge.
' Ovid.Fa. L. i. it. 205. Et foenum topiti ippoa, fuit.
Net pua'or in tipula placidam cepze guietem,
' I Ja N U A R it
 to HoLLAND, am' thence to ENGLAND. 161

JANUARY xxxi,
WE go on this day toKloppc-rburg, atown of the LawerBt'M/L
rick of Alzmer; from whence in a little time we reach the banks
of the Hae, and in a few hours more the town thence called
HaeIzm, where we take up our lodging that night.

FEBRUARYi.
VVE had hitherto found H'e/Zpbalia a deolate and wild coun
try, overrun with heath, except here and there adorned with
mall groves of ately oak, in the middle of which we commonly
found a ingle farm houe, encloed with rude pales like a
park, which in ummer time mu be truly pleaant. In everal
places by the road ide are een pos, with iron boxes on the top,
for the receipt of charity, as if the land it elf confeed its po
verty. However in this day's journey the appearance began to
alter, for about ten a clock we arrived at [sing-en, a pretty compact
and well built town, which lately belonged to King l-l ctzi/lz'am, but
now to the King of Pruia. The neighbourhood is well ored
with woods ; the kirts of the town adorned with frequent gardens,
and alleys of trees orderly planted; and the whole place by a how
of riches and beauty confemg, as it were, the benet of a mode
rate and proteant government.

JUST beyond the limits of this town we cros the Emr, or

Amaia, by a ferry boat, and afterwards continue our journey to
Northern, the r town of the United Provinces, in the limits of
which we now pas out of Wcj/lplaalia into Overziel. After a
hort bait we proceed to Otmarh, and there lodge. This is the
r place, ince I- left Hamburg, where Iwas oered a bed, having
hitherto ept in my cloaths upon the raw.

FEBRUARY ii.
WE now proceed by the way of lmeloo, and o to Dew-mer',
over the plains, where his late Majey delighted ometimes to
hunt. Thee plains are covered with heath, and therefore aord not
o good riding ; but at the ame time theyare encloed within long
tracts of hills riing gently, which give the portman a convenient
ight of the chafe.
Tt Fgsnvnsg
 162. A JOURNEY from ADRIANOPLE

FEBRUARYii
WE op this day at Deventer, and put up at a public inn,
where we dine with ome Danih ocers ; and after diner I pay
a viit to the learned Gihertus Cuperus, who entertained me very
obligingly, hewed me his library, coins, incriptions, and other
curioities. In his library were everal large volumes of letters,
written by him in the name of the ates, or on other public oc
caions. Among his coins was one with the title of IMP. vNicvs.
And among his incriptions this which follows:
MACSVSANO HERCVLI SACRVM
FLAVIVS SVMMVS MAGISTRATVS

He eemed to think this was Hercules of Machhu/en, a town not

far diant from hence. I continue the following day at Deventer,
and from thence write to my freinds at Hamhurg.

FEBRUARY v.
FROM Deventer I now proceed in three hours to Loo, where I
was entertained for ome hours in viewing the houe and gardens
of his late Majey, and then go forward to a village called Fort
hauen, where I take up my lodging. The next day I continue
my journey to Amersford, where I dine, and by four a clock reach
Utrecht.

FEBRUARY vii.
THIS and the two following days I remain at Utrecht, where I
now r viit, and contract a very agreable acquaintance with
Mr. Paul Foley, udent of that univerity; who the day after
obliged me with his commany in a trechehuyt to Leyden, where I
view the phyic garden, and adjoining galleries of natural rarities 5
the academy, anatomy theatre, great church, and other curioities
of the place. And the next morning I take the like paage for
Rotterdam.

FEBRUARY xii.
THIs day I went to the Hague, where at length I again met
his Excellency; having een Delft and Rywich in the way. At
Bel/i

*'

...'
4 -___.
 to HoLLAND, andthence to ENGLAND. 163
Delft particularly I was entertained with a ight of the great
church, and ne monument erected there in memory of William
the r, Prince of Orange. And the next day I continue to at
tend his Excellency at the Hague.

FEBRUARY xiv.
THlS day, being Sunday, I depart from the Hague, with his
Excellency, Mr. Paget, and Mr. Foley, in a trechchuyt, by the way
of Leyden, for Am/lerdam; where we put up at the Oude Heeren
logement. And aying here the two following days, after pay
ing a viit to Mr. Marcus, I amue myelf with viewing the
magazine of the admiralty, the adthoue, and pinhoue; the
hopital of boys and girls, with that of old women; the raphoue,
and other public buildings.

FEBRUARY xviii.
I RETURN this day to Leyden, and there ee Mr. De la Fa-ve,
brother of the Englih minier of that place; and with him viit
Jacohus Grono'oius, profeor of eloquence and hiory, and at this
time rector magniicus; from whom I receive a copy of Mynhe'er
Coon's incriptions, among which are ome not publihed in the
Memoria Cooniana.

FEBRUARY xix.
WE now leave Leyden, and go back to Rotte'rdam, where his
Excellency is lodged at the Doole for about eight days, and then
removes to H/inereet. During this time I become acquainted
with Mr. Richard Davis on the Heering vliet, the chief promoter
of the new epicopal Englih church, now building at the upper
end of that vliet. Ioberve whatever is remarkable here, par
ticularly the atue of Eramus, and the houe of his birth ; and
likewie pay a viit to Moni Bayle.

MARCH vi.
I ATTEND his Excellency to the Hague, and the next day, be
ing Sunday, I go to Rotterdam, there preach to the epicopal con
gregation, and return to the Hague that evening. The day fol
' lowing
"
164 A JOURNEY from ADRIiANoPLE
lowing I walk from thence to the Houe in the wood, which is a
fine ummer retirement, neatly built, and furnihed with good
painting, by Hederzic Henry, Prince of Grange.

MARCH X.
I DEPART with Dr. Time/41' for Leyden, where I now propoe a
long ay. And herel contract an acquaintance with Mr. Nau
villr, an ingenious and polite gentleman, maer of a good library,
and a curious collection of antiquities. With him alo and Dr.
Tz'memi I viit everal of the profeors, as Grom-vius, Perizorzim,
and Trz'glandius ; and ee likewie the library, and epecially the
manucripts
mueum of this
of Mr. univerity.
Neufwille, Among
Ioberved the other curioities
following in the
incriptions,
cut in marble tablets. *
CONSIMlLES FRATRVM TRABEAS GESTAMINA HONORVM
T ERTIA AVAE DEERANT ADDIDIMVS TITVLIS.

THIS, which follows, is on a one oppoite to the former.

DILECTAE PROBVS HAEC PERSOLVO MVNERA MATRI
RESTITVENS STATVIS PRAEMIA WAE DEDERAT ,_
D. M.
P. CAESIO EVTYCHETI
FIL. B. M. A. XXII. M. X. D. XXIV. i
H. Ill. FONTEIVS EVTYCHES i
ET LEPIDVS PARENTES D.

. L L . RIO CVRATORI VlAE

. . ET ALIMENTORVM
. .I PVBLICAE AECIANENSIVM
. . RICVLANORVM
. . OVINCIAE ASIAE
. . ARIO O. K. FLAMlNI

cos. AQYARVM ET M ;;.::.:*;:

ELECTO AD IVDICAND. SACR ..
RECTORI
CVRATORIITALIAE
COLONIAR.
REG.SPL IR . . ..
LVGDVNENSIVM CAL . . . . . . . . .
CALENORVM XIIVlR ROM . . . .
1 Thee
pag. twon.are
CCCLII. publihed
5. and both in Grut.
Fleetwoad,pag. 152. but each ofi them
" with
* ' ome
" little variarioni
' '

2 ' .. THIS
 to HOLLAND, and thence toENoLAND. 165

THIS, which follows, was on a gemm.

APAKoN
OEAFENOTZ
AAKIMoz _
TOEOTHZ
AoHNA.
ON the oppoite ide was a bent bow, with a quiver and arrow,
as likewie a erpent twining about the bow; and on the right
ide was ingraven the word ANTI'IAOT.

MARCH xvii.
I NOW deire my dimion from the family of his Excellency,
and hire a lodging for myelf. And uch was his generoity, that
two days afterwards he was pleaed to end me the reidue of my
alary, with half as much more, as was then due, at the rate of
eighty pounds a year. .

MARCH xxvi.
I sea the curious work in cut paper by a woman at Rotten/am
And three days afterwards going to Delt, I viit Mr. Leewenhoeh,
and ee his microcopes, with many curious dicoveries upon in
ects, and other minute animals. The ame day l pas to the
Hague, to gratify my curioity in viewing uch things, as before
had ecaped my Obervation.

MARCH xxx.
THE wind etting 'fair for England, I haen to Rotterdam, to
take leave of his Excellency, who embarked at two a clock.
Here I purchafe a large number of books, and other necearies,
to a coniderable value.

APRIL ii.
I (LUlT my lodgings at Rotterdam, and remove to the Hague.
The day following I viit the church of Laundone wherel found
this incription under two bras bains : Margareta, Hermani Comitis
Henehergae uxor,lia Gulielmi Caearis, anno M c c L x x V r 3 65 enixa
U 11 i e
 166 A JOURNEY om ADRIANOPLE
e/Z pueros etc. icut in hac tahula ex oetuis tam manuhriptis, auam
typis excuis, chronicis poitum ac enarratum e. The ame after
noon I pas on to Honardyhe, wherel ee the orangery four
hundred and fty yards long; the Ea India hualo, male and
female; the aviary, in which is a white peacock, the birds called
Iepelaars, and variety of foreign ducks and geee; the able of fo
reign beas, among which is the mamo't of Ea India (like a ag,
but with twied horns) and a cazware; the gardens, in which are
everal beautiful atues, particularly one of a gladiator ,- the houe ,
coniing of one intire quadrangle within two good galleries,
the Been's japan cabinet, and the King's well furnihed with
curious paintings. '

APRIL xvii.
I Now return again to lmerdam, by the way of Gouda, in
company with Mr. Vandeput. Here we op to oberve the ex
cellent painted glas in the everal windows of that church; and
then proceeding in our paage by the trechchuyt arrive at Am
erdam by ix a clock next morning, and after diner make a viit
to Dr. Cochhurn. The next day we are introduced by the Doctor
to ee Mr. De Wild's cabinet, richly furnihed with coins, gems,
culptures, and atues. Among the re of his curioities he has
an excellent piece, repreenting the Maacre of the De Witts,
a good bras Otho, and a ne Venus zfnadyomene. The day
following the Doctor procured for us the like favour from Mr.
Vincent, whoe cabinet conis ofa very numerous and well dipo
ed collection of animals and hells.

APRIL xxii.
MR. Cochhurn, on of the Doctor, Mr. Vandeput, and I, divert
ourelves, by making a hort excurion to Sardam, in North Hol
land, remarkable for the great number of windmills that urround
it, and the large quantity of timber, which always lies there ready
prepared for building of hips. We return in the evening to Am
erdam; and the next day I purchae of Mynheier Vtcher a et of
Geographical Charts, both Old and New; and then viit Mynheer
Uilenhroeh, a curious gentleman, po eed of a very large and well
choen library, as alo a cabinet of coins and other rarities.

APRIL
 to HOLLAND, anzltbence toENoLANo. 167

APRIL xxiv.
I'DBTART for Harlem, and there viit the learned Antony Van
Dale, by profeion a Phyician, in opinion an anabapti. He en
tertained me very obligingly with a ight of the neat gardens, coly
tulips, and other amuements of that place. In dicouring with
him on divers ubjects of learning, he eemed in ome things over
ceptical, queioning particularly the" authority of the pocalyph.
I go the ame night to Leya'en, and from thence the next day to
Rotterdam.

A P RI L xxviii.
RETURNING again to Harlem, Mr. an Dale carries me to viit
Mynbe'er Koolaert, a merchant, and father of a beautiful daughter,
named Hcer, about eventeen years of age, born deaf and con
equently dumb; but taught to peak (tho not very articulately) by
one Dr. Amman, who has publihed a book upon that art, of which
the young lady gave me a copy in Dutch, and her father ano
ther in Latin. She aked me after Mr. Rambouts of Conantinople ;
and l anwering he is dead, he dicerned what I aid by the mo
tion of my lips. By the ame means he can difcoure at large with
her mother
She evenand
writes well, in the dark,
paints by feelingAnd
curiouly. her her
lips mother
when peaking.
is an ex- i
cellent Latini. The ame day Mr. Van Dale hewed me a peci
men inofthe
and the market
r printing, kept
place the in the town
incription, houe that
aicterting of this place ;
invention
to Harlem :
' MEMORIAE SACRVM
TYPOGRAPHlCA ARS ARTIVM OMNIVM CONSERVATRIX
HlC PRIMVM INVENTA A L. COSTERO HARLEMENSI Mccccxxrrx.

The next day I leave Harlem, and return to Amerdam.

MAY. i.
THIS morning, with Dr. Cackburn and Mr. Vandepnt, l viit the
learned Mr. [e Clerc. He hewed me the Tbeanrns Iinguae Lafinac
of Ran. Step/ranne, improved by manucript notes of the author's
own hand; as alo lrenaens, Lib. v. cap. 2. concerning the preence in
the acrament; and Complained of Mr. Grabe, as mirepreenting
I * the
168 A JOURNEY from ADRIANOPLE
the church of England in his notes, In the afternoon, in company
with Mr. Vandeput, I review the cabinet of Mynheer Uilenhroe/r ;
and by his leave copy the two following fepulchral incriptions,
one in Latin, and the other in Greek, the former of which is pe
culiarly remarkable for the corruption of the language.
D. M. S.
NON. SVFECERAT. VNO. DOLORE.
MISEROS. BlBERE. PARENTES.
MOD. IAM. VNAM. NATAM. OMISER
ANT. ANTE. ECCE. NVNC. ET. ALIJAM.
SAEPELITAM. VNO. DOLOREM.
QYOD. IAM. PROPE. NYPPTVM. MYSERAE.
DEFVNCTAE, SVNT. AMBAE, SET.
WI. DOLOR. ABS. TE. NOBIS. HARMO
NIA. RVFA. RELICTVM. EST. VT. ANNI
S. XIII. M. VI. D. XXVI. NOBISCVM. AD
VIXERIS. VNA. ET. NOS. OPTAMVS.
AD. VOS. PROPERARE. PARENTES.
EGO. PATER. HARMONIVS. jANVA
RIVS. CVM. BESTA. MATREM.
(LVAE GEMVIT. VIBET. ET. DOLET. CLO
DIA. TROPHIME. NEC. DVBITA
MVR. ENlM. VITA. CARERE. MO . . . .

HATOEZ. OTK. ABOATOZ. ENI. TPIZZAIZ. AEKAAEZZIN.

OETAOTE. TAN. ZQOIZ. OIMAN. O<EIAOMENAN.
KAI. ZE. TON. EN. ZHONAAIZI. FEI'AOOTA. I'IOTAT. MET.
MATHP. AIAZEI. MTPOMENA. I'IPTTANIN. (AXT.().N.
I'IETPOZ. O. AE. EEINOIZI. BOAZETAI. 02. AIAAAOZ.
AEKAAEZ. ANOPQI'IOIZ. OTOEN. ENEIME. TTXA.
EIHZ. TOI. ZTM. I'IATPI. KEXAPMENOZ. O<PAN- EZ. ATQ 1.
ZQZTPATOZ. EN. <IMENOIZ. MTPION. AINON. EXH.

MAY iii.
MR. Vandeput, Dr.Cochhurn's younge on, and myelf, hire a
couple of chaies, and make a journey into North Holland. We pas
Monnihedam, the Beemer, and o to Alchmair; where we oberve
the beautiful and clean reets, the adthoue, the church, and noble
picture there of the year l 5o4, the delightful woods, and arti
cial walks. We return that night, but not without being impoed
on by the owner of our chaies.
_' O<P AN EZ AAQ.

MAY

_ __...i..___,
 to HOLLAND, and thence to ENGLAND. 169

MAY xi.
HAViNG continued thus long at Amerdam, enjoying the corn
pany of my good friends, and amuing my elf with the variety
of .entertainments, which this place affords to rangers, I now de
part for Naerden in the trechbhuyt by the way of Muydemtwhither
I am kindly accompanied by Mr. Le yolle. There Iarrive by two
a clock, and having viewed that complete and compact fortica
tion, I depart at ix in a po chaie for Utrecht, wherel arrive by
nine, and lodge without the gate. In the morning I repair to Mr
Foley, and am by him invited to lodge in his apartment. He car
ried me to viit Holthenus, a learned divine and minier ofthe place,
who had then the care of the new edition ofGruter; and has a good
collection of coins, among which was obervable Nerva of the
large ize, the revere a palm tree, with the legend FISC I IVDAlCI
CALVMNIA ABLATA.

M A Y xiv.
MR. Foley and my elf hire a traveling chaie and pair at Utrecht,
with which we proceed to Amerford, and from thence to the King's
houe at Loo, where we arrive by three a clock in the afternoon.
And upon out return to Utrecht the day following, I begin to think
of England, and accordingly prepare my elf for a voyage by the
ir convenient paage.

Xx 73
I7o A L'E'TTER to Dr. TURNER.

To the Reverend Dr. THOMAS TURNERL

REVEREND SIR,
_ OUR great goodnes will excue the tardines of this letter,
Y when I aure you, thatI have been long ambitious of col
lecting any thing, that might deerve your notice; tho hitherto I
have been uccesles in that deire. Many things indeed have
occurred obervable to me ; but I could not hope at the ame time,
that they might appear uch to you. For it is common with un
experienced travelers to be tranported with pleaure and admira
tion, when their accounts are. not able to rai e the ame aections
in their freinds; either becaue they convere With men Of better
judgment, or becaue the mo valuable relations mu needs be
heard with a greater coldnes, than the things were een. But not
withanding thee dicouragernents, I have lately looked back up
on my Journal, to ee if any thing might there appear remarkable
at this diance; and tho a hort voyage by ea mu be barren of
all real qurioty, yet. for the ubject of this letter I hall now
trouble you with ome of the things, which I oberved at Cord-in,
_ Menh and Milo, the three only places, Where we touched in
(int paage hither.
IN Cadiz, as in mo other parts of the Spanih dominions, there
is nothing very curious, but in their churches or convents; and
this, when once een, is to be deplored, rather than admired. For
when you r come into the town', you are not o much ruck
with a face of religion, as with the notion of a certain politic
game, where the pries are oon dicovered to be the only winners.
Since in the whole place there is nothing fat and well favoured,
but the clergy. The re of the inhabitants appear meagre, wan,
and melancholy, being moly employed either in repairing to
mas, or returning from it; ometimes counting their beads, and
at other times perhaps lugging an heavy Saint in their arms. And
therefore, were they not upported under this condition by a cer
tain natural pride, which is fed partly with the real hiory of their
former ate, and partly with a romantic imagination of their
preent grandeur; they would oon become o enible of their
ilavih poverty and uperition, as either to break their own hearts,
or that yoke, which opprees them. 2. * THERE
 ALETTER to Dr.TURNER. I7i
THERB are everal religious houes in this city, one of Franci
cans, another of Dominicans, a third of Auguins, and a fourth
of Capuchins ; beides ome nunneries, and a fth convent called
the Mercy, being founded for the redemption of Chriian laves.
There is likewie an hopital, named the Hopital ofSt._7ohn ofGod;
where we aw a large and decent inrmary for ick and wound
ed perons, whether natives or foreigners. There is nothing much
remarkable in thee places, beides the altar pieces of their chapels,
which are every where gaudily and richly furnihed; but thoe
particularly of the cathedral church, and Dominican convent, are
adorned with tables of wrought and may ilver. On the walls
is een abundance of painting and imagery, the device of which
is for the mo part oenive, or ridiculous. An inance of the
latter
hand, was the picture
weighing of St.ofMichael,
the merits departed with a pair
faints: of cales
of the former,in the
his i

pourtraiture of God the Father, in the hape of an old man ,- with

many other blaphemous repreentations of the Trinity. Either in
their veries, or their chapels, there is commonly the tl'aint oftheir'
order pourtrayed at large, in a gaudy habit, and incloed in
a cae of glas. Other leer images of Saints they expoe in
holes of the wall, where it faces the town ; and to thee the de
vouter part of the people 'pay their everal occaionaloraifons, as
they pas the reets. This large multitude of altars and faints,
which every where appears at Cadiz, could not but remind me of
what the priees in Peironiur ais: Utigue nora regio tam praeen
tihus plena e/l numinihus, ut facilius po's deum, guam hominem in
venire '. But not to tire your patience with the many odd pieces
of uperition, which occur in every corner of the city, I hall give
you a relih of the whole in the two following inances.
THE r of thee is a pecious incription over the entrance to
a private houe, occaioned by the following accident. In a late
olemn proceion upon Corpus Chrii day there happened a orm
of rain, which was in danger of oering ome direpect to the
ho; and therefore they thought convenient to give it helter
in the next houe, they could ep into. Among thee zealous
people this was conrued uch a bleing to the man and his fa
mily, that the houe is ever ince looked upon as acred; and the
owner has been at a coniderable charge to erect a pair of marble
pillars at the entrance into his porch, adorned with carving, and
incribed after this
A
magnicent manner: " That in the year 169 2.,
I Cap. 17.

Innocent

_ e._-L.a=_*-._ .
'172. A LETTER to Dr.TURNER.
" [nnocent XlI being Pope, Charles rr King of Spain, Buzzia Bi
U hop of Cadiz, and Don Velaco governor of the ame Herculean
" city Cum area t'era, panem angelicum carnem fact'um continens,
triumphali proceonis pompa, die feo Dominici Corporis ded/ice
retur, et, aeviente turhine, irretrerentiae periculum immineret; ha
rum aedium dominus, Didacus de Barias, exioit ohviam ahhonditae
maje/lati, et dei Centurionis aemulus procidit, indignum h proitens,
cujus tectttm Dominus uhiret, eumque honort'ce in oratorio uo t
cipere meruit. Lame, Deo favente, acra catholica majelas cooperari
volens domui huic praeeminentiae praerogati-vam conce't, etc. This
accident has rendred Didacus de Barias a meer Saint, and his
houe a mo inviolable anctuary, in the eeem of the poor Spa
niards. Tho our Englih merchants well know him to be a rank
Jew, who being therefore liable to death by the law ofSpain, was
always forced to live under diguie, and now gladly embraced this
opportunity of pang for a zealot. The f[ews indeed have for
merly been very inolent in Spain. One o the la inances of
which was a certain indignity of a hoemaker, who buried a cruci
fix under the place, where his cuomers tried on their hoes, that
by this ratagem he might oblige Chriians to amp upon the
cros. But this nation being ince banihed that kingdom under
the pain of the evere death, they, who ill covertly remain o, are
obliged to profes themelves of the popih faith, which they can do
without any great regret; it being eay to be of two religions,
where both coni only in external how and ceremonies.

TH E other memorable piece of uperition is to be oberved in the

convent of the Capuchin friery, who within thee three years have
'acquired an extraordinary eeem, by means of a certain lady, who
acknowledged herelf cured of a dangerous malady by virtue of
their interceion. This was an hint, which they thought very
improvable; and have therefore ince et up for uch a ock of
merit, that their cloier is already illed with waxen gures of
legs, arms, heads, women's breas, and other oerings, of o many
maimed and diempered perons, whom thee Saints have reored
by their peculiar intere in heaven. One particularly, who was
indebted to them for a more than ordinary bleing, has erected
a ately monument on that account, before the entrance into
their convent. It is an handome Ionic pillar, made of white
marble, inrailed with a large quare of one, in the front of which
is a crucix, and an image of the Virgin, under the title of the
Triumphant
 ALETTER toDrLTURNEIi. m
Trittmphant
* an idol, thatLady. And goips
the zealous this newofgure is already
the town become
will often uch
approach
it upon their knees, at near the diance of a furlong.

HAVING been detained about a week at Cadiz, we et ail Oci

tober 1 I, 1699, and by the favour of a fortunate we wind were
advanced within nine days near the entrance of the Faro ofMena;
where we lay becalmed two or three days', under the iland of Strorn
holt', as after our departure from Mena we did likewie under
mount etna. Each of thee was an opportunity of entertaining
our ight with the dreadful Curioity of thoe burning mountains;
where we oberved the crater of both to ca up a continued pillar
of moke, and at repeated diances a terrible red blaze of re.
Afterwards being favoured with a 'gentle gale, a pilot came from
t the city to eer us thro the dicult rait of Scyl/a and Charybdis.
'Here l was curious to oberve theituation of thee places, epe
cially betaue the latter is ued in a confued and uncertain ene
in clac authors. But upon a diligentview of the place it elf, and a
Comparion of ome clear expreions in antiquity, the be judgment
Ico'uld form of it Charyha'zis
good hiorians, was this, which follows.
ignies In Thncya'ides
the whole ',ahd Sicrly
rait betwixt other

and Calahria; but in Homer *, VirgilF, and other poets, it is re

rained to that peculiar whirlpool, which flows under the op
poite rock of Saylla. Betwixt thee two we found the cur
rent o various, that our hip was obliged to and ve or ix dif
ferent ways in a few minutes ailing; and at the ame time it was
urprizing to hear the waves bubble in a continued hideous
noie, well expreed in the poets by the barking of dogs round the
bowels of sey/le. *

A As we lay at anchor at Me'na, we were preented with a delighti

ful landkip, which the narrow winding of the Faro, the verdure of
the oppoite hores, the wall, the citadel, and town itelf aorded.
The front of the whole city is one continued pile of buildings, ex-
tending three quarters of a mile in length,- from theViceroy's houe
to that called the French ha/lion; It intirely conis of free one,
being raied four ory high, adorned with carved windows, bal
conies, battlements, and other Ornaments, all anwering to each
other with an exact regularity. No houe has any doors to the
ea, butI the entrance is at large
Lib. iv. parag. 24,
gates, which front
I Ody M. i. 235.
o many reets
Ildm. iii. it. 420.

Yy of
174 'A LETTER to Dr. TURNER.
o the city, placed at equal diances, and each of them incribed
with ome religious device. This range is contrived, as for orna- .
ment, o likewie for defence 5 it being at the bottom oa prodigious
thicknes, o as to withand a iege, and decreaing proportion
ably towards the top. The whole running in a bend, which is
every where equidiant from the ea, repreents acurvilineal amphi
theatre. The inner part of the city does not anwer to this mag
nicence o the front; tho there oten occur many ingle pieces of
great art and Curioity. Such as the King's ame on horeback,
exactly o
Statne reembling
Dan Johnthat of our late
of Auria, in King Charles
ctmemory of theat victory
Windor. The
obtained
by him at Lepanto in 1571. The beautiful ructure of a public
fountain, adorned at Nzilus,
gures, repreenting the bottom
[bel-us, with
Tibcr,our
and large and But
Eur'ipns. maerly
more
curious than the re isa gure oNeptnne on the mole, ca in olid
bras, and attended on each ide with two very natural repreenta
tions of the moners Scylla and Charybdis.

BUT it was not o entertaining to oberve thee, as deplorable

to ee, what St. Paul bewailed at Athens, a city wholly given to
idolatry and uperition. It aords a melancholy conideration
to any erious pectator, to be witnes to o many vain and hypocri
tical addrees made to the images and altars, which abound in this
deluded place. For this brings the like candal upon Chriianity,
as was o oenve under the ranke heathenim, and too truly
expoes the ubjects of it to that deriion of Lncretins:

Nec pit-tas 'Alla c velatum aepe nideri

Vertier ad laptdem, et Ynacunqne accedere aa' aras '.
They are here furnihed with nunneries and monaeries to the num
ber ofixty odd, mo ofwhich are lotily built, and add the greate
grace to the ructure of the city. In the college of St. Nicholas
Ioberved the pictures ofour ive Jezils, who were executed for the
popih plot, with a pecious account when, and how, they were
crowned with martyrdom for the procion of the faith in England.
In the nunnery of Sta. Maria del-(a Scala they hew a one cul
pture of the Virgin and our Sa'w'or, which they verily beleive to
have been taken from the life. In the cathedral church there are
twelve noble gures of the &ale-s, exquiitely carved in clear and
ILib. v. i. 1197.
coly
 ALETTER to Dr.TURNE1t.' 1'75
coly marble. The ile, which compoes the bodyof the church, is
ranged on each ide with thirteen ately pillars, twelve of which
are antient of the Corinthian order, brought formerly from a
temple of Neptune, that ood near the promontory Peloirus. There
are here three gaudy altars, that want nothing, which art or ex
pence could contribute to adorn them ; for below they are et
with work of lapis Iazuli, and above are covered with cupolas of
true moaic. But over the high altar, at the ea end of the cathe
dral, is preerved in golden characters, and imbellihed with a
rich variety of other Ornaments, one of the greate deluions in all
popery. It is a letter, which according to the tradition of this
church was ent to the Mcnians by the B. Virgin, upon their
converion by St. Paul, oon after he touched at Rhegium. It is
reaonably concie, and therefore I hall venture to trouble you
with the words, as faithfully trancribed.
[Waria Virgo, Joachim lia, Dei humillima, Chri/ii Ie'i cruciixi
mater, ex trihu Juda, irpe David, Meianenihus omnihus
alutem, et Dei Patris Omnipotentis henedit't'ionem.
VOS omnes ide magna legatos ac nuncios per puhlicum docu
mentum ad nos conat. Filium norum, Dei genitum, Deum
et hominem e ja/emini, et in caelum po iam re/urrectionem
acendie, Pauli Apooli eIeEZi praedicatione mediante, viam veri
tatis agno/centes. Oh quod nos et 'ipam cioitatem henedicimus,
cig'us perpetuam protectricem nos ee oolumus. Anno Filii nori
xLu. Ind. t. 3 nonas junii. Luna xxvrr. v. Ex Hieroolymis.
MA R I A Vr R G o.
Quae ipra hoc ehirographum approbacit.

You ee, that he, who had the impudence to forge this impo
ure, had likewie the upidity to date it by two 'epochasz the latter
ofwhich did not commence before the' reign ofCotgantine theGrea't,
and the former not till that of juinian. The He 'rew original they
confes not to be nowextant. And as to this, which they call the au
thentic tranation, it would be impoible to beleive them erious
in venting o foul a cheat ; but that they pompouly expoe' it to
all the world in their metropolitan church', and celebrate it b'y a
yearly fea, and public rejoicings of a whole month's' continu
ance ; that it has been conrmed by repeated indulgences from'
the court of Rome; and that at the We end of the church there
are divers olemn incriptions, importing, that in ome general
' Calamities
176 A LETTER to Dr. TURNER.
Calamities of Sieily, there particularly peciied, the Virgin ill
protected her ZWe/ina, according to her mo faithful promie in
theHoly Letter. This naturally brings to one's mind the antient de
votion of the ame place towards Ceres and Prohrpina, as men
tioned by Cicero, when he ays: Vetns e haec opinio, quae con/lot
ex antiqnimis Graecornm literis et monnmentis, innlanz Sici/iam to
tam e Cereri' et Proerpinae conhcratam. Hoc cum ceterae
<gentes c arhitramttr; tum ips Sicn/is tam periatm e, nt animis
eornm initnm
that thee et innatnm
people have notee/videatnr
yeit regiered'. anltaccident,
is to be of
wondered
which as at,
to
the fact our Englih merchants were eye witnees, namely; that
in the late repeated earthquakes ofS'icily in _r 693 the tower of this
cathedral, which ands at the we end diinct from the body of
the church, was o diorted by one hock, that it ood very dan
gerouly in an oblique declining poure ; but that about a week af
terwards another hock reored it to its former true perpendi
cular ituation.

AFTER ive days pent in viewing thee and other curioities of

Mena, we et ail the thirtieth of October, and by the ninth of
the next month were obliged by contrary winds to and into
the port of Milo. This ile, known to the antients by the name
ofMeZos, and eeemed the large of all the Cyclatles, is deervedly
famous for its fair and commodious harbour ,- which entring at a
narrow chanel afterwards enlarges itelfcircularly into a lake, rather
than a bay; being always calm, and patious enough to receive a
eet of an hundred and fty ail. Iwent ahore at this place with
the greater atisfaction, conidering that among other antiquities
it lays claim to Socrates and Ariophanes. It has a city of the
ame name, inhabited at preent, like the other ilands of the
rchipelago, chiefly by Greek Chriians, who have been burthened
in the late war by a cruel tax of ixteen thouand dollars to the
Venetians, as well as to the Turks ; but by the benet of the pre
ent peace, as its tribute to the former wholly ceaes, o that to the
latter is much mitigated. It is obervable, that in every cultivated
feild about the town, there ands a mall Greek chapel, conant
ly adorned with the painted images of the Virgin and St. George;
and thither the zealous women of the place often retire with a
prie, to ay ome upererogatory m'aes for the benefit of their
I In Verr. iv. cop. 48.
3 private
 ALE'TTER to Dr. TURNEI'LL i77"
private relations, whether dead or living. In a cave on the iand
there is a natural hot bath, which has proved very uccesful in'
many malignant maladies. Walking on the randl oberved
another of the ame nature, like that of Licinius Craas, men
tioned by Pliny, Lia. xxxi. cap. 2. The heat of this was o great,
that I could not bear to keep my hand in it. The ame hore
aords a vein of black and, of which we there gathered a quan- .
tity very clear and beautiful for the ue of writing.

AFTER a op offour or ve days at Milo, we had a very enterc

taining paage thro the iles of the rclyipelago, and on the nine
teenth of the ame month arrived, by God's Providence, in good
health at Smyrna; where I often remember, how many ways I
and indebted to you, which will be always gratefully acknow
ledged by,

Ret/erend Sir,
Smyrna,
jane 13, 1700- _
Tour _ etc.

E. CHISHULL.

FINIS.

Zz AN
 E R R A T A.
Page 15. line 5. read Acbmetle'er.
24.. 4.. not.
29. Aura'tbaar."
44..
76. 1 3. ale" thiauh,
28. lilia.
77
88. 33 thither.
92. 29. Yudex.
93 32.. Ba'm'.
'108
xxzgl. 9. Glychenhtrg.
20. Ferdinand.
144. 20. by.
,168. to. ALIAM:
 INDEX
ofNAMES andTHINGS.
A; ALEXANDER Sanctus, his bones carried in pro;
BJA F r r, a prince o Valachia, Pagu. 89; ceiion at /r'em'ia, 1' 24,
ALCKMAIR, a town in Norib Hollow', 1'68
A ABYDOS, ee Esxr NAToLrA Hisxrt.
ALLAH, a name of God among the Turks, 7 r. See
ACHMETLEER, a village on the road from Smyrn'a D'Herbtlot.
to Sardr's, 15 ALLALMALEE, a Chriian village in Thrace, 62
ACHMET GERAI SuIra'r, a Tartar prince, 73 ALMASCH, a river in Tranylvania, 97
ACHMET Sulton, his moque at CoryIa'irinople de ALMELOO, a town in Omrrl, 15;
cribed, 40, 45, 64.
ALONrA, an iland in the Pfopo'itis', famous for
ADRAMYTTlAN galph, made by the two promon excellent wines, 37
tories of Cana and Lecton, 33
ALsLEnrR, a town ln Upper Sazony', 146
AnRAs'rrAN PLAINS, o called from the' town
zldraia in Mia Major, 51 ALSTER, a river, which runs into the Elbt at Ham
hurg, 1S3
ABRlANOPLE, by the Turks called Edrint, acity
of Thrace on the river Hebrus, decribed, 63 AL'I', a river in Trarzylvania, gy
ADULTERY, what proof it requires in Tranl-ua ALTENA, a town near Hamh'rg, ubject to the
king of Denmarl', 134., 156
m'a, 104.
AESEPVS, now SrMow, a river owing into the ALUTA, ee ALT.
Propontis, 52, 58 ALYMAN, a mountain in Iom'o betwixtE/uas and
the village Giamobajr, probably Man: Galleus
AETNA, a burning mountain in Sicily, decri
bed, 17z
of the antients, at'
AGA, a name o repect among the Turks, which AMAsrA, ee EMs. A
properly ignies lord or maer; from the mo AMERSFORD, a town in the province of Utrec'bti
dern Greek word dyde, as (bme have thought, 9 162, 16?
It is alo an additional title given to everal o AMMAN Dr. taught deaf and dumb perons to
cers, who attend the Grand Signior, 69 peak at Harlem, 167"
APlA HYAH, or the acrzd curtain, which incloes ANATOLIA, ee NA'roLrA.
the choir in the Greek churches, 42 An'rlocuvs King, where defeated by Scipio Jia
AGRIA, a city in Hungary, 108 firm, 53
AIASALUCK, ee Epmzsus. AN'roNrNvs Marcus, the Emperor, died at mar
AKHISAR, ee THYATIRA. hond, is;
ALAI cHrAuski, a meenger o' ceremony, 76 APAMEA, ee MoN'rAGNrA.
ALAI KIOSK, a pleaure houe o the Grand Sig APOLLONlA ad Rhyndacum, ee ULUBAT.
m'or in the great craglr'o at Conantinople, de APvLvM, ee Wrssannuno.
cribed, 45 Aturranuc'rs of Coryiantinoph decribed, 43'
ALANY, avill'age in Hungary, poeed chiey by ARABIC gures, their form, as expreed in adare
General Glychenherg, 108 1477 at Clauenhurg; and r467 at Vimna, 97
ALBA Juus, ee Wrssrnnuno; ARANYAS, antiently Chryalar, a river in TranyI.
ALCYONlVs, his book De exilr'o, aid to be com nam'd, 96
piled out of Cicero's treatie De glorr'a, 14; 3 ARcADtua
 180 I N DEX.
ARcAnrvs the Emperor, his pillar at ConanrinopIe BASSARABAS 7oannes Corantz'nur, prince of lap:
decribed, 44. cbia, his character and family, 78. His pzlace
ARcnBrsnoP' of Vienna, his behaviour at a pro at Buoure, 79. He entertains L. Paget, ib.
His palace at Tergooz', 82
ceiion, 12;
ARGINVSAE, ee Muscomsra. BATHS at Prnia decribed, so. Near But/o, 1 r r.
At Baden, 126. In the iand Mib, 177
ARGISCH, a river of Bulgaria runing into the
BATKAN, a river owing from mount Hamms in
Danube, 77 Thrace,
ARGURON, a Mucovian bird, 68 7;
BEAVER, one at Mugebao decribed, 118
ARMS of France, ee FLiBs. BEEMSTER, a place in North bral/and, 168
ARNOUTCU', a village in Bulgaria, 76 Bags, ee FLIES.
ARNSWOLDT, a wood in Lower Saxony, with a BEHEMERWALT, ee SYLVA Hancrma. *
poor inn decribed there, _ 15 9 BEBEMlsH language, a dialect of the Sclavom'an
)
AROKSZALLES, a popih village in Hungary, 108
. '33
ASCHERSLEBEN, a town in Upper Saxony, r4.6 BELGRADE, a village in T/oraoe near Can/[anti
Arnos, a mountain in Macedom'a, 33 'top/e,
ATMEIDAN, the Turkih name for the bippodro BHMA; the chancel in Greek churches,
a ' 8;
mar, or eirque, at Co'antinople, 44. Bauanrc'rmas, their convent at Vienna, 117
Aucusrmzs their convent at Vienna, 117 Bzr, a Turkih word, igniying lord, 60
AURATBASAR, a place at Con/IantinopIe, which ig BlBLB, a m. in the German langutge, with a re
niies the market of women, where ands an an markable picture,in the Imperiallibrary at I/ienna
tient hiorical pillar, with a Greek incription 119. Another in old Englih; a third of St:
upon' it, 44, j'erome'r, written by Alba: Gouf: idal Vitu/ur ;
AUSTRIA, divided from Hungary by the river with a Greek Teammt, and two printed copies
Leyta, 114.. And from Moravia by the Tzya, which allwant the remarkable paage in the r
EpzIIe of St. Yo/m; an anoint: Yilamenf m, a
1zr
roll of the Pentateuob, as now ued by theJews -
B. and a 'nt/gate Latin Bible, printed by zllclru, witli
BABA, the name of a cape, formerly called Lecton, amymbutd,
remarkable reading: all in th e D u kes' l'b
i raryqagc
in the Aegean ea, 33
BABlTZ a town in Juria, 13; BlEsKE, a village in Hungary, llI
BABo, Count of zbenherg, his numerous ofspring, B1-RGHEE, a town near mount Trnolar in Ionia,
12.;
18
BADEN, a town near Vienna, celebrated for its baths,
Br'rrN, a' town in Bohemia, the eate of Prince
126. Their manner of making wine, encloing
Lobrowitz, 138
vineyards, and drawing carriages, 128. Their
cuom upon the death of any animal, ib. BLANKENESS, a village in Lower Saxony, 159
BAjAZET Sultan, his moque at Corantinoph, BLANYAN or BRANYAN a town in Bohemia, 133,
40; And at idrianople, 6+ 134
BLEW KrosK, a pleaure houe of the Grand Sig
BAIN, a mall Saxon bras coin, fomewhat more m'or, in the great eraglio at Co'antinople, 45
than our farthing, current in Valachia, 85
BOCLEW, a river in Myia' minor, 59
BALASFALVA, a town in Tranylvania, 94,
BALASHA'LA, a town in Tranylvania, 97 BOET C. a famous painter in enamel at Vienna,
BALlmsAR, a town of [Vyia Minor, 52 BocAz, a rait, _ [30
or narrow ea, between two
BANDIERA, a banner orandard, 8; lands. Alo an zbrnar, or neck of land, be
BANTl Count, governor of W'znbarg, 93. His tween two eas, 33
preent to L. Paget, 96 BOHAIMTSBRODT a town in Bohemia, 134
BARlCLE, a village on the road from Smyrna to BOHEMIA, eparated from Moratn'a by the river
Sardir, 15 Iglaw, 132.. From Saa ony near the town P'ter
BARROWS, or biIIoo/Zr, in Iom'a, between Durgnrb waldr, 139
Ii and Sardir, remarkable for their number and Borarc DERVENT, a town in T'Zvraoe, 73
gure, 14 BOIUKDERE, a town near Corantinople, igniying
BARUT AGA, aTurkih ocer, who has the' charge the great rtra/e, 47
of the gunpowder, 32. His treatment of cap BOKLAR, aTurkih village in Bulgarria, 75
tain Winter, 3 3 BONPOURNICKEL, a ort of black bread ued in
BASHA, an additional title given to uch ocers, Lower Saxony, me
as attend the Grand Sr'gn'ior, 45, 66, 67
BoRosNYAI Joannes Nay, an Hungarian divine,
BASlRE Doctor, prebendary of Durbam, profeed
divinity at llienburg during the troubies in En 92) 93
gland, 95. Lert his lrr'nerary there in manucript,
ib. BosTANcx
 E X. 1 81
BosPHoRvs,
antly intobythethePriopontir,
Turks failed Begin, ows3 8,con
42 CANON, ee Esxr NATOLIA HtsAR.
BOSTANG! BASHA, the Grand Signior': chief gar CANTACUZENO Thanrah, his reception of L.Pa
diner, and keeper of the palace at conant: get, 77
nople, 4.; CA NTACUZRNVS Conantinas Stolnichus, uncle to
BOTH, a river in Hungary, 108 the Prince of Valarhia, his character, 79
BOURG, a palace in Vienna o called, 117 CAPtoEEs, meangers extraordinary from the
BoY born at Rigcirh in Auria without legs or Grand Signior, into whoe preence they conduct:
thighs, but healthy and lively, 129 ambaiadors, 67
BOZACGEE, a village in the Adraian plains, 59 CAPUCHINS, their convent at I/imna, in which
are buried the imperial family, 117. Their cloi
BozoK, a Turkih drink, decribed, 62 er at Prague decribed, 135. Their convent
BozzA', a river, which ries between Valathio and at Cadiz, r 72 .
Tranylvania, 86 CARAVAN, a company of pilgrims, or other perons,
BRAN, a callle on the borders of Tranylvania, who travel together in Turkey, with a guard for
decribed, 86 their ecurity, 51. See Dr. Pater/Et, V. ii. par. i.
BREMEN, the chief city of the Dutchy o called, P- 30
and a Hane town, in Lower Saxony, 156, 157. CARDIA, or Sinus Ille/os, a gulph on the We ide
Decribed, 160 the 'II/ma: of the Cherone'us, 62
BREVICVLVS de nafiomihu: Tranylvanieir, the title
CARNVNTVM, ee PETRONEL.
of a book o called, 91 CASSAWARE, a ort of bird without wings, 118
Bnwots, one of one at Uzunhupre'e decribed, CATERGEE, a Turkih word ignifying a mule dri
62. A wooden one of four hundred paces over ver, 62
the Danube between /ienna and Entzerdor;
131. A one one at Prague decribed, r34, CATHARINE Saint, her church at Ha'nhurg de
137. In Bohemia uually covered with a pent cribed, '53
houe, 138. One at Dreden, 139. Another at CATROCHAN, a convent near Buturg in I/aIoiln'a
M'len, cros the Elbe, No decribed, 8!
Bnunswrcx, the chief City of that dutchy, de CATTLE of Hungary fair, white, and large, 107
cribed, 149. Their way of making mum, ib. CAYSTER, a river in Iom'a, 19, 21:
BUCUREST, a town in /alaehia, 81. Its reets CAYSTR'AN plain in Iom'a decribed, 19
oorcd with plank, 82, CETtvs, a mountain in Auria, 13 1
BUDA, the metropolis of Hungary, decribed, rog, CHALCEBON, atown in Bithynia oppoite to Con
no. Its government, 1" ontr'nople, ome account of it, 4.;
Buowrrz, a town in Airia, on the borders ofBo CHALLIKCAVAK, a town on the borders of Bul
bml'a, 132. garia; the Ornaments of the women, and their
BULGARIA, antiently Moe/fa Inferior, divided from manner of dimiiing rangers, 74.
Thrace by mount Haemus, 75. The on rich, CHARYEDrs, ee SCYLLA.
but the people poor, 76. separated from I/a
Iachia by the Danube, 77, CHATEAURENAULT, the French admiral, his
whole quadron unk or taken at Vigo by the En
BUxTCHUDE, a town in Lowrr Saxon), in the do EIfh' 138
minion of Swtden, 159
CHERSONESVS, the ptnin/ida of Thrace, 6r
C. CHr'AvsH, a purevant or meiengcr of the Tur
CADr, a Turkih ocer, properly a juice, 6 kih court, 69
CHIAUSH BASHA, the chief ocer of ctrhe Tur
CADrLEsxER, a lord chief juice among the
Turks,' of which there are two, one for Europe, kih thian/ber, or mcengers, who carries ailve'r
and the other for Aia, 66 a; 65
CADlZ, in Spain, decribed, 170. Remarkable CHR lSTlANVS AvovsTvs Duke of Brunwx'ti
inances of uperition there, I7r founded the library at W'olfembutel, and wrote the
catalogues himelf, 147
CAFTAN, a ve or garment of honour among the
Turks, * '67 CHRONXCLUES D'ANGLETERRE, xur volumes
CAtcvs, a riverof/Myia Major, decribed, 52, 5 7 m. in the Duke's library at lVo/femhutel, r48
CHRYSOLAS, ee ARANYAS.
CAIMEKAM, aTurkih ocer, who acts as deputy
to the prime w'xir in his abence, 66, 69 Cr-mYsoPoLrs, ee SCUTARI.
CALLIPOLIS, ee GALLrPoLr. CHRYTSHULEST, a village in Valaebz'a, 82,
CALvrms'rs, their wox-hip in Tranylvania, roz CHURBEGEE, a captain of the janiaries, 66
CAMELOSTRVTHI, ee OsTRrcHEs. CrANvs inus, a bay in Bitlyynia, in which was the
CANA, a promontory of the Adramyttian gulph, 33 famous fountain, where Hy/as was drowned, 49
Crnm, a river of Tranylvania, from which the
Aa a _ city
182. IN DEX.
city Cx'ln'niam (or Hcrmaradt) receives its name, CsAT, a village in Hungary, 107
92 CSEGE, a town in Hungary, having a pas over the
CmrmvM, ee HERMANSTADT'. Tibicur, 107
Crcrmo's Oratians m. in the Imperial library at CVMA, ce SOTALEA.
Vimna, rzo CVPERVS Gihertar, his library and muum, 162
Cws, or Praa aa' lrgantbaniam, now a mall CURrostTrizs, at Vt'mna, 129. At Leijir/i, 144.
village of Bitbym'a, o CURUCHESMEE, a village on the Thracian Ba
CLAMSTON, a town in Bohemia, 138 pborus, which ignies adry fountain, 39
CLAVDIOPOLlS, ee CLAUSENBURG. Cusncur, a palace of the Grand Signior, very near
CLAUSENBVRG, a city in Tranl-uania decribed, ' conantinoplt. The word igntes the Bird
96. Incriptions there, 97 village, 49
CLOYSTER NEWBURG, a town in Aurm, 13: CYPRlANUS Dr. rector of the univerity at Leip
COKUCK Dznocu'r, a town in Upper Saxony, 138
ick. 144
CYRILLXAN Sclavonic character decribed, 85
CoLomczA cardinal, archbihop of Striganiam,
107 CYzrcvs, a city of [Vyia minor, 59
C'LASLAW, a town in Bohemia, where general Zezha
Co LVMELLA, a curious manucript of him in the
lies buried, 13;
poeion of Dr. GOETZE at Lcipick, 14;
COMNENVS 7i7uodorus, built a cale at Pruia, 5 t
D.
COMORWA a village in Thrace, between which and DActA MEDITERRANEA, now Tranylvania, 85
jldrianople drummers are placed in the road, like
DACXA RlPENSIS, now Molda'via and Valachia, ib.
watchmen, for ecurity, 74.
DE BARrAs Didacas, his houe at Cadiz eeemed
CONAcK, a reing place or lodging, 2 a anctuary, for heltering the bo from a orm
CONFRATERNITY of the dead, perons who attend of rain, 1 72.
the public executions at I/ienna, 123
DEBRECYN, a free city in Hungary, decribed, lo,
CONFUClAN pbx'loopby, publihed in the Sinze 106
language by the Jeuits at I/imna, no DELFT, a city in Holland, 162. A monument
CONSTANTrNE the Great, defeated Licinm'a: near there in memory of mlliam r. Prince of Orange,
Hadrianaple, 63 16
CONSTANTrNOPLE, by the Turks called [am DELMENHORST, a town in mpbalia ubject t:
bol, from a corruption of the Greek si; 'thar warm, the King o Denmark, 160
as ome have conjectured. See Canttm. p. 51. DEMBOWITZA, a river in Valacbia runing into the
The moques there decribed, 40. The antient Danabe, 77, 83, 84.
cirquc, ib. incriptions there, 41, 436, 48,49_ DEPLlTZ, a town in Bohemia, the eate and eat of
The aqueducts, 43. The great eraglra, 45. Its Count Clery, 1z8
gure towards the ea, 48
DERRICUI, a. Chriian village in That', 62
CORDAG, ee IDA.
DERvrsEs, Turkih monk: of everal orders. Their
CoRDrLrEU, a hill near Smyma, , z college at Magncia, 7. The ceremonies of thoe
CORN in Hungary buried under ground, 109 called Malwi, 49, 70
CoRNrBA-r, aTurkih town in That, famous for DESK for books, awheeling one at Pragru, 136. At
dying purple and yellow leatherh 74, V'olembutel, I4 3
COSSON Daniel, his incriptions, 163 DEVENTER, the chief town in owrz'l, 16 r
Co-rorms'r, a village in Valachia, 84 DE WlLD Mr. an account of his cabinet, 166
COTTON wooL, how managed in Turkey, 13 DrANA's temple at Epbeus, its remains, 27
CRESSET Mr. envoy to the court of Haaowr, his DlMOTICO, a market town in Mia Minor, cor
character, 15 r ruptly o called from the antient Didymoticbas,
CRONSTAD, a city in Traloam'a, decribed, 87. 60
The religion, civil government, and language DrvAN, the grand council room, or court oju
there ued, 88 tice, among the Turks, 45, 66
CRoss Saint, a rich convent of Ciercian monks Donozt Step/Maur, a learned gentleman of De
near Badm, 127. A church o called at Dre Izmyn in Hungary, who is publihing a new ver
dm, I39 ion of the Bible in that language, for the ue of
the Reormed churches there, 106
Crwcrrrx, in a chapel of the Premonftratenians
at Pragm, aid to have been illuminated in the DOBRAL atown in Than, 74
night, 136. Another on the bridge at Drzdm, DOMUZDERE, a place near Caqaatinale, ignify
bearing an incription, that diavows all uperiti ing 'in vale of bags, 47
ous worhip, 140. One laid under foot at Cadiz, DON JoHN oAu/Iria, his atue at Mna in me.
by the ratagem of a jew hoemaker, '72 mory of the victory at Lepanta, z7+
CRYP'I'OGRAPHIA, a book written
dage/lus Duke _oii Branwick, by C/m' farm:
148 DRAGOMAN, aTurkih word gnifying an inter.
puta-r,
 INDEX; 183
preter, from the modern Greek dgraya'ruuos, or ESK] S'I'AMBOL, a city of Bulgarr'o, poibly the
dear-'drawen 2. Oeeur Triballorum of the antients, 75
DRAGOSLAVE, a village in Valachia, 84 ESTZERBAZI Count, Palatin of Hungary, rrz
DRESDEN, a royal city of Upper Saxony, decribed, EvPr-toRMro of Barolay, a comment upon it by
139 Mr. IVagner of Leipirt, _\ 14.!
DRUMNA, a town in A'uria, 132.
DRUMMERS, placed as warchmen in everal parts of \ F.
Thrace, 74. Famucrvs _'7o. Albertur, his character, 157
DURGUTHLr, a Turkih town in Ionr'a, where cot FALLING slcKNEss, the blood of perons exeeuted
ton wool is manufactured, 13. An Armenian eeemed a remedy for it at Vienna, 124.
church newly founded there, ib. AGreek in FA RO of Meina decribed, 17;
(cription there, 14. FAVORITE, a palace of the Emperor at Vz'enna o
E called, rr7
EARTHBJAKE, a remarkable eect of one at FEKiZTEI-[OLM a town in Tranylvania, with a
Mena, [76 church fortiied like a garrion, ' 88
EBERSTORFF near Vienna, in which there is a FERDINAND Il Emperor, made I/r'rnna the Irn
palace of the Emperor, 1 17 perial eat, 117. Deroyed the town Sloney in
EFFENDr, from a corruption of the Greek word Bohemia, r 38
rit-Lime, is a title of repect given to perons a FLIES or BEES, the emblem of them uppoed to
mong the Turks; ued ometimes by itelf, and be the real arms of France, Izo
at other times ubjoined either to their name, or Focma VECCHIA, antiently Pboraea, a harbour
the oce which they bear, 6 near Smyrna, zz
EFFrcKE' Dr. profeor of divinity at Leipiob, 14:
Fozrus burnan, double in all its parts as far down
EGRA, a river in Bobemio, [33 as the navel, kept dry and ued, in the biblr'o
EIRONEIA Gaufridi', an antient Satyr in m. on tbera V/indbagt'ana at Vienna, 1 19
the pope and court of Rome, in the poeiion FOGERAS, a town in Tran/Iwnia, with a cale,
of Dr. Go'e'tze at Leipick, 14; which was never taken by force, 89
ElSLEBEN, a town in Upper Saxony, famous for FORlS DEBREEZENI Stepbannur, chief paor at
the birth of Luther, 146
Zilab, a Calvini village in Tranylvania, 97
ELBE, a river in Bohemia decribed, 1 3 3, 152. FORTSHAUSEN, a village in GeIder/and, 162
ELCHlLEE, a town in Thrace, 63
FOUNTAIN, in the town houe at Prague, decribed,
ELK, at the Emperor's palace at Sebonbran, de 135. In the Duke of Brunwieb': palace at Hef
cribed, 1r9
den, 146. At Meno, r 74.
EMPEROR tGer'nany, his treaury, 121. Preent FRANcrscANs Minorite, their convent at Vienna,
family, ib. Character, 122, 127. Manner of 117
hunting, 123. Inveing the princes of the em FRANcKrvs, a Profeor in the univerity of Hall,
pire, 124. Pictures and rarities, r29, 130. his cheme for an ample charity, 14;
Palate at Prague, 13;
Fnrnuno, a town in ll/lrm'a, ubject to the Ele
EMS, or lmaia, a river in mpbolia, 16 r ctor of Saxony, 1 38
ENGEDI Step/Janus, Profeor of divinity at Enyed,
FRITSEL Homer, a noted bookeller at Leipiob,
95
ENTZERSDORFF, a town in Ill' m'a, 13: G 14-3
ENYBD, a town in Tranylvania, where the Cal GALA DAYS, o called at Vienna, on which the
vinis have the mo ourihing chool and col court appears in its greate plendor, 122.
lege in that country, 93 GALATA Greater and Ler, two villages in Ybrore
EPnasvs, now called diaalueb, its ituation, 23 near Collr'poli, 37
Its ruins decribed, ib. The cale, and St.
GALATA, a town and port near Conanlinople,
John? church, 24. Remains of the old citadel,
and Diana's temple, with other reliques of anti 39
quity, 26, 27, 28 GALLBSIVS MONS, ee ALYMAN.
'ERDtcuREsTum a town in Tranylvania, 97 GALLrPoLr, antiently called Callipolir, a city in
Tbraee near the Hellepont, 37
ERZERUM, a city of Arment'a, 69. So called from
erz land, and Ram Roman, Cantem. p- 75. GELEMBA, a town of IVyia Major, upon the ri
ver Car'eur, 52, 57
Eskrjaml, a moque at Adrianople, o called 'om
its antiquity, e/H ignifying oIa', and jami a GEMMAE SALXS, pellucid like cryal, 93
temple, 64. GEORGE Saint, an iland near Srnyrna, 32
EsKr NATOLIA HrsAR, or, the Old zlan cale. GEORGE Saint, avillage near Smyrna, with an an.
It is the antient dbydo: in My ra, 36. Bras guns tient Greek church, 3
in the cale with a bore three quarters of a yard GERHARDVS Abbot, otherwie Mlanur, his coins'
diameter, ib. and medals, r 50. Income and authority, rsr
Gcrsn
 184. INDEX.
GEYSA, ee SAxoNs. Hane towns, eated on the north ide o the
GHIKA, a prince of' Valaebia, who ormed an in Elbe, 152. Beieged in 1686 by the king of
urrcction again the Turks, 83 Denmark, 153. The religion, government, dres,
GtAMoBAsY, a village in Ionia near mount ells unerals, and trade o the inhabitants, with the
ma'n, 21, 3' Englih company of merchants there, r'bid. Fa
mous or Rhenih wine and ne loa ugar, 156.
GLYCHENSBERG General, governor of the orces An account of the opera houe, and a model o
at Cro'adt, 87 Solomon's temple, 157. The language and
GOETZE Dr. his manucripts, etc. 14.; 4 manners o the inhabitants, 158. The detea-.
GOLD, remarkable accounts of its lodging in vines able practice of melancholy perone, and inao
and grapes in ome parts of Tranylvania, and mous character of a monrous Virago there, ib.
upon mount Tolai in Hungary, [03 HANOVER, the chief city o that electorate, de
GOLDEN BULL, containing the conitutions ofthe cribed, r5t. An account of the Electoral fa
empire by Charles the fourth, 119 mily, ib.
GOTHIC character, an account of it, 14; HARACH, a pale 'ax laid upon Chriians by the'
GOUDA, a town in Holland, '66 Turks, 4z_
GRABE Ern.Mr. Le Clerc'r complaint of him, 167 HARBURG, a town in Lanenlmrg, 15;"
GRAEvtvs Mr. keeper o the public library at HARDA, a river running into the Fleam: at Adria
Leipiek, r4t 'lap/e, 63
GRAND SIGNlOR, his manner of receiving am HAREM, a Turkih word for women, or the wo
baadors, 66. His peron decribed, and man men: apartment, 32, 38. ln the Arabic language
ner of riding to a moque, 69. His titles, 70 it iigniies tbingrorln'dden.
GRAND ViZtR, chie counellor or repreen HARLEM, a town in Holland, which claims the'
tative of the Grand Signior, his manner of invention o printing, 16,
giving audience to ambadors, 65. His per HASANOGLI, the maaae at Magnq/ria, where he
on decribed, ib. Entertains the L. Paget, was buried, held in great veneration by the
70. As to the inferior wirlirr, bis aants, ee
Turks, I,
W'z'lon'r Seraglio, p. 61o, 611. HASE, a river in lVe/yalia. 16,
GRANtcvs, ee BOCLEW. HASELUN, a town in mpbalia, ,'5_
GRAVEN Lieat. Cel. 87. Receives a preent of a HATWAN, a town in Hungary, 109
diamond ring from L. Paget, 91 HEBRVS, a famous river o 771race, 62
GREEKS, their church at St. Gearge'r, 3. Their Hr-:L LESPONT, now called thcDardanellr, ows per.
devotion, 4. Manner of celebrating the Eu petually into the Aegean ea, 35. Its breadth, 6 x
chari, ib. Churches at Yj'rr'a, ao. They ab Hem of Grand Cai're decribed, 46 .
hor all imagery in releiw, 20, 61. Their fune
rals, 39. Famous convent called Maure'melar, HERACLEA, a city o Than, 33
42. numerous chapels about the town Mila, HRRMANNVS, founder of Mrmanadt, his atue
176 there, 93
GUNs, ee EsKt NATOLlA HISAR. HERMANSTADT, a city in Tranylvania, L. Paget's
GYGAEAN LAKE, near Sardz'r, 17 entertainment there, 90. Ini'criptions there, 91.
Its government, 92
GYONGYOSSI, a city in Hungary taken from the
Proteants by the Jeuits, 108 HERMVS, a famous river in Iam'a decribed, 5, 56
GYONGYOSSI Paul, a Hungarian divine, who for HESSEN, a mall village in Saxony, the Duke o
merly reided at Oxford, 106 HBrunu/icg: houe there, 146
EUSLER
Tekely neareneral
Rotawdee
inasercimjvlzvdzicaef by COUQF;
H.
HABERN, a wood in Boberm'a, 133 HlLDEsHEIM, a city of Lower Saxony, 146
HADGELAR, a village near Smyrna, o called from HtPPlvs, a river near the city Przz/ia, 51
its being the r rendevous o the lyaa'jies or pil. Hoste, a Turkih word igniying a learned man
grim: in their annual journey from Smyrna to an nylructar, or feather, 69,
Mette, 55. Incriptions there, ib.
HoLtBRUN, a town in dig/bia, 131
HAIMVS, a mountain in That-e, 74
HOLTHENVS Ed'vardzu, a learned divine of U
HAGUE, a town in Holland, 162. Prince o 0 tree/11, who was then publihing the new edition
range': houe in the adjacent wood. 164. of Gruter. 169
HALBERSTADT, a town in Saxany, 145 How SnPULcHzR, certain rents at Barren/i' in
HALESVS, a river in Ienia, dicharging itelf into Vain/na congned for the ue of it, 80
the ea at Colapban. 3,
HOMER, an old manucript of him in the uni
HALL, a city of Sualria. decribed, with the uni verity library at Leipiee, 143
verity, 14.;
HONSLARDYKE, a palace o K. William near the
HAMAL, a Turkih name or a-beatman or porter. Hag'ee, 166
In the modern Greek xazm'a. 39
House TAILS, two allowed by the Turks to be
HAMBURG, a free Imperial city, and chief of the carried before the prince of Valaeln'a, 81
3
Hos'r'
 INDE'X. '185 .
Hos*r, ee DE Banms Dr'dacar. ILFoF, a mall river in Valachia, 82
HouND SLAYER, his oce at Baden, 128 ILIVM, ee TROY.
HOUR in traveling, about three Englih miles, s. IMAGES, ee STATUES.
See Dr. Sbaw': Prefan to his Trace/r, p. ix. IMAM, aTurkih prie, who daily ays public pray
Houses in Hungary made under ground, 108 ers. From the Greek word Bony-fewe, by the mo
Hu, HU, that is, be be, or be who is,- with the dern Greeks corrupted into 'ly-tip, 60
Turks meaning God, 71. See D'Herbelot, and IMBROS, an iland in the Aegean ea, near the
Wil/bn': Seraglio, p. 764, 786. Cbe'omfur, 33
HUMUMLEE, a village in Mia Mnor near the INN, ee ARNSWOLDT.
lake eVinya'r, 59 INscRtPnoNs Greek, one at Magnea, 11. At
HUNGARr, a people of Tranhloam'a, 99. Their Durgatbli, 14. At Tyria, 20. Three at Epbe
government, 1oo. Religion, 101. Cuoms, m, 28, 29. One at Conantinople, 41. At the
104. convent Mauro'molos, 42. Upon Aura'roaar':
I'IUNGARS, a gold coin in Turkey, worth about pillar at Conantinople, 44. On a tower near
Porra Janicula, 48. Others near theeraglz'o, 49.
ten hillings erling, 39 One at Pruia, 51. Others at TZyatira, 53, 56,
HUNGARY, divided from Tranylvania near the 57. At Hodge/or, 55. And at jerdaek, 60.
village ZiIa/i, 98. Its oil rich and abounding One at Komora, 112. Another belonging to
with lakes, lII. Divided from zIa/iria by the Mr. Neufw'lle at Leyden, 165. And another to
river Leyra, 1 14.
Mr. Uilenbroek at Amlerdam, 168
HuNcruscH ALTENBURG, a town in Hungary, lNSCRlPTIONS Latin, one at Epbeus, 25'. At Con
i:uated on the river Lcyta, 114. antinople, 4r. Upon one of the symplegader,
HVNN 1, a colony of Scytbianr, now ettled in Tran 42. Two in the great eragliio at Corylantinople,
l'll', 99, xoo 46. Others at Hadgelar, 55. And at Ylay-atira,
HYAENA, one at Neageac in daria decribed, 57. Three at Hermanadt, 91. And at H/in
r 18 barg, 95. One at Nero/a, 96. Two at Clau
HYLLvs, a river near T/ryatira, 52 mburg, 97. And at Konzora, 112. One at Pe
tronel, 125. Another belonging to Mr. Caper
I. at Dewnter, 162. Others to Mr. Neafville at
Jacacvr, a village near Smyrna, 2 Lia-den, 164. And one to Mr. Uilenbrock at Am
erdam, 16 8
JALOMITZA, a river in Valachia, 83
JOHN Saint, his church at Epbear, 24.. And ho
JANIKAW, a town in Bohemia, memorable for the pital at Cadiz, 171
battle in 164.; between the Swedes and Impe
IRONGATE, a place o called in Myia Minor, 52
rialis, 13; lsHMAELjA, a village in Iom'a near Dargatbli, 14.
JANISARlES, a body of the Turkih infantry. The
word ignies new aldriers, as they were the la Is VORA, a pleaant place incompaed with woods
in Valachia, near the river Dembo-wrifza, 83
order introduced. They make the Grand Sig
nior': foot guard, and the pabee': the hore, 2. JvsTvs Sanctm,' his bones carried in proceion
l/rienna,
at
124.
The manner of their dimiion from duty, 68
IcHoGLANs, youth born, of Chriian parents, and
educated by the Turks in the eraglio for public K
oces of the ate, 46 KANES, public places in Turkey, both on the road
and in towns, with a moque uually in the mid
lDA, now Cera'a'g, a mountain near Troy, 33, 58,
dle, encloed for the lodging of travellers, 8, 13,
5 9, 60 80. See Maundrell, pag. 1. Thee buildings
JENICUX, a town in Worm-e, 73 eem to have been very antient in the Ea't, and
JERDACK, a village in Mia Mnor near Lam alluded to Jerem. ix. 2. where by the Septuagint
parm, 60. Two incriptions there, ib_ they are called morni
Jcsurrs, their convents at Vienna, r 17. And col KAPOS] Samuel, profeor o the Scbo/a ilbeni: at
leges at Prague, 135. Where they have the di l/rnburg, teaches the Englih language to the
rection of the univerity and public chools, I 3 7. udents, 94.
Pictures in St. Nicbolar's college at Mena in KAZTPXQTHZ KJ; t'm'zyioe, a Grecian at Bacarg/i
honour of thoe ve,who were executed in Eng in Valachia, 80
[and for the popih plot, 174. KAYA, a deputy o the grand m'zfr, 65
Jaws at Perm'tz, their mark of diinction, 132. KEREPES, a town in Hungary, 109
and at Pragae, [37
KlBLB, or KXBLAH, that part in aTurkih moqae,
IGLAW, a city in jlloravia, 132. Houes there with whoe propect is towards Alma, to which they
fale fronts, ib. always turn, when they pray, 8. See Dr. Slraw's
IGLAW, a river in Mara-wia, 132
Trace/5, p. 284..
IGMAND, a town in Hungary, 1 12 Krer, a Turkih word, igniying delight or plea
Imm, a Turkih jawli'z. The modern Greeks write ure, 10
it 'Cupido
Bbb KING
 186 INDEX.
Kmc of France, an epigram upon him by the LEEWENHOEK Mr. his curious dicoveries upon
Emperor, 120 - infects, ttc. 165
KtNG of Poland, his dexterity in hooting, 12; LEIBNITZ Mr. librarian to the Duke of of Brim -
KIOSK, a Turkih pleaure houe, 6 witk at ll/olmbutd, 147
KlRKlNGECUI, a Chriian village near Epbzur, LEICHTENSTElN Prince, purchaed the bones of
21, 22 three Hungarian Saints in Italy, and conveyed
KLOPPERBURG, a townin the bLhopric of Mun them to Vienna, 124.
z I6t LEXNE, a river in the Electorate of Ham-ner, 15!
KOENDERN, a town in Ucr Saxony, 146
LEiPstcK, a city in Upper Saxony decribed, 140.
Its government, 14t. Commodities, univeri
KOES j'o/mmm, procor of divinity at Dear-'apt in
Hungary, 106 ty, m. 142., 144.. The habit of the eccleia
KOES, a town in Hungary remarkable for the many ics, 14.;
curious trees, herbs, and owers, which grow LEMNOS, an iand in the Aegean ea, 33
near it, lII Leo the Emperor, his uperition, 45
KoLosERt Samuel, inpector general of the em LEOPARDS at the palace of Ntugebac, near Vienna,
peror's'niines in Tranylvania, 93 decribed, 118
KOLOSVARI Stt/Mmu, preeor of Philoophy a: LEOPOLD Saint, a cale on the Danube, near Clay
Enycd, 95 er Ne'wburg in Iq/inia, 13:
KOMORA, a city in Hungary, 112. Inctiptions LEPELAR, aort of ork, 166
in the cale, lb. Li-zsno's, ee MITYLENE.
KONJNGSMARK Count, bras atues of the twelve LEYDEN, a city in Holland, 169,
Apoles at Prague converted by him into canon,
LEYTA, a river in Hungary, 114.
1 36
KOOLAERT Mr. 'merchant oF Harlem, an account LIBRARlES. W'indbagiana and imperial at Vienna,
ot'his daughter, who was born deaf, being taught 119. Premonratenian at Praguc, 136. The
Duke oBrunj-iwitk'r at l/olfcmbutel, 147, Thoe
to peak, I67
at Leijick, 143. And Hambarg, 157_
KOTTIN, a town in Bohemia, 13;
LlctNNtvs, ee CONSTANTINE.
KRASNA, a river in Hungary, 98
AiMNz-t AAzKrAiTiZ, a lake in [Wyia Maur, now
KREMNYTZ, a town in Hungary, famous for mines called Minya'r, 58
o gold and other metals, 109
LINGEN, a town in W'zpbalia, decribed, 16:
KUNSTCAMMER, or art: chamber, the Elector of LioN DOLLARS, coins current in Valachia, 8;
Saxony's repoiitory of rarities at Drtilm o call
ed, 14o LIVY, an'account of an antient manucript, which
eems to have contained more books of that au
KrprAKoAPoMicN, ee MAXIMUS Hi'eromamzc.
thor, than the preent copies, 119
KURUGELCHICK, or the dried lax-e a village on
LOAF SUGAR, ee HAMBURG.
mount Te'nnu: in Vyia Major, ' 57
Loo in Gelderlzmd, K. Vi/[iam't houe and gardens
KUTALI, a mall iland in the Prapantis near there, 162, 169
Man/tom, 37
LUBECK, an Han town in Lower Saxony, 157
KUTTENBERG, a city in Bohemia, 133
KYSLER AGA, the chief ezmucb o'called by the LUTHER, a picture o him at Leip/r'ck taken after
his death, Lia, Reliques o his in the Duke's
Turks, . ' 69 library at lombutel, '48
L. LUTHERANS, their churches and manner of wor
LAMBECIVS, keeper of the Imperial library at
hip in Tranylvania decribed, 101, 102. Their
Vienna, turned Papi in order to qualiy himelf manner of communicating, 144., 147
for that imployment, 12; LUXEMBURG near Vienna, an Imperial _ palaces
there, 117. The cale decribed, with arcmark
LAMPSACVS, a town in lMy/a Mnar, 37, 60 able inance of thunder, which happened in it,
LANDAw, a city of zace, zzz
126
LANGBRMAN Mr; a dtuggi at Hamlzurg, his cu LYNcFs, at the palace o Neugebac near Vienna de
rioities, 157 ictibed, 1I3
LAPts LYDtvs, o called rom Lydia, a country in
All-nor, lo M.
LA'I'IN Letter: in m. writen by the preent em MAcKsnustN, a town in Overzl, 16z
peror to Lambmus, in the imperial library at MAUONNA, ee MARY.
l/ienna, 120 MAGNEsiA ad Szylum, city of Lydia, 5, 56. Its
LAUNA, a town in Bohemia, 133 manufacture, 6. A ieraglio, madhoue, college
LECTlONARIVM or' the our Evangelis at Kir oderrwjr, and royal maatm there decribed, 7,8.
kinge'cui near Ep/Mur, 2: Gave name to the magnet, 9. lncriptions there, t 1.
>LECTON, ee BABA.
MAGNET,
 IND E X. 187
MAGNET, ee MAGNESIA. MESSINA, a city on the coa of Sieily, decribed,
MAHOMET endi, his courtey to the travelers 173. The cathedral, monaeries, etc. 174., 175,
at Magnga, 6
176. Ceres and Proerpina antiently worhiped
MAHOMET rv. SuIran, a one bridge built by him there, 1 76
near Dimorico in ZWyia Minor, 60 ME'rRoPoLrs, an antient city of Lydia, whoe
MAITOS antiently Madytor, a town in the Cher ruins are decribed, 30
mem, decribed, 37 MEULEVI, an order of Turkih monks, whoe ce
MAKREN, ee MORAVlA. remonies are decribed, 49, 70
MALGARA, a town in T/oraee, decribed, 62 MEYER Dr. a turbulent divine o Hamburg, 15;
MAMOT, an Ea Indian animal, like a ag, with MICHAEL Saint, his church at Vienna, 1 17. A
twied horns, 166 remarkable picture of him at Cadiz, _ 171
MANDAHORA, a village on the river ele'pur in MrHALtcK, a town in lily/la Mnor, where [he
jllyia Minor, decribed, 52, 53 river ieye'pur dicharges itelf into the ea, 53
MARCOMANNI, ee MORAVIA.
MIKES, Count Micbacl, received L. Paget on the
MARGARET, Counter o Hermeberg, aid to have borders of Tranhlruania, 86
had 165 children at a birth, 16;
MI LE Hungarian, equal to ix Itaan, 87
MARGARITA, a town in Hungary, 98
MARK, ee MORAWA. MtLo antiently Ille/or, one o the Cyelader, with
a city of the ame name, decribed, 176, The
MARMORA, an iland in the Proponti: decribed, 37 birth place of Socrates and erz'opbanes, ib. Hot
MARVS, ee MORAWA. baths there, t 77
MARY Virgin, her pillar at I/ienna decribed, its.
Her picture aid to have hed tears, 116. A mi MlbXAREE, a eeple, or tower, joining to aTur
raculous image of her, ib. A new ort of Glorr'a kih moaue, from which the muezin, or t/oanter,
Patri incribed to her, 131. Her atue at Prague, calls the people to prayers, 7
134.. Picture pretended to be done by St. Luke, MINDERA, a Turkih mattret, lled with cotton or
135. Numerous titles, tz6, 173. A one cul wool, 67
pture of her and our Sa-Uior at Mna, beleived MINISTERS of the diwin, their habit, 68
to have been taken from the life, 174. Her
letter to the Meam'ans, 17; MlNYAS, a village and cale o called in Mia
Mnor, 58.
MAUROMOLOS, a Greek convent on the European
ide of the 'Bopboruig decribed, 42 MtssaL'roE, its manner of growing about Thy
atrra, 56
MAvRvstvs, a river near Wi-nlrurg in Tranyl MISTEN, a town in Uper Saxany, 14o
vania, 93
MITYLENE or Lehor, an iland in the Aegean ea,
MAxtMvs Hieromonacbur, a famous Greek monk,
author of a book called Kvztzxolga'zaioy, 80
32, 33
MOESIA INFERIOR, ee BULCARIA.
MEANDER, a river in Iom'a, 5 MOLANVS, ee GERHARVVS Abbot.
MEDOSLANlVM, ee ZNAIM. MOLDAVIA, by ubmiting to the Turks was taxed
MELANCHOLY perons, their method to get rid of lower than the neighbouring countries, 85
their lives at Hamleurg, 158
MONETA BRACTEATA,'latcly found in Saxony,
MELANCTHON, a celebrated picture ohim at Leip decribed, 14.;
ick, taken after his death, 14;
MONNXKEDAM, a town in North Holland, '68
MELAS a river in Thrace, owing into the gulph
Cardia, * 62. MONTAONLA, a Turkih town in Bitlzynia, which
MELOS, ee MtLo. eems to be the .lpame'a of the antients, . 50
MENCHENIVS Dr. Orro, proeor o moral phi MONTE ARGENTATO, ee BATliAN.
loophy at Leipick, and editor of the jcta Eru MORAT 1. Emperor of the Turks, converted a
ditorum, 147. Chriian church at Adrianole into a moque,
now called Ehijam/i, ot the Old moaue, which
MENCHENWS Junior, doctor of law at Leiie/P,
14-3 yet retains the antient form, 64.
MENOLoGION, a Greek manucript in the poe MORAT Sulran, his rength and activity, 46
ion of Dr. Go'e'tze at Leipirl', 14.; MORAVIA, now called Maken, 131. Antiently
MEPOMIENVS, or NEPUMENENVS Sancta: Joan the eat ofthe Mareomanni and Sarra/ii, 123. The
ner, a new (Lint at Ve'ma, xt7 . A brazen ta country fertile, but the people ilavcs, ib. Speak
tue and incription erected there to his memory, the Bebemih language, ile.
I37 MORAWA, antiently the llrlarus, a river in duria,
MERCY, a convent at Cadiz, founded or the re 131. Called Mari- by the Germans, 13;
demption of Chriian hves, '71
MUEzlN, or cbanter, who calls the Turks to their
mazomonzz, or Mixl/aml ln'I/s, in zhe Cayr'izm prayers, ' 47
plain, 19
I. . . Mosoys,
188 INDEX.
Mosoyss, buildings for the publick worhip of the O.
Turks, in the form of our churches, 7. See Dr. OCKER, a river in LowerSaa-ony, [47
Oescvs TR1BALLORVM, ee EsKr STAMBOL.
Sbaw's Trawlr, p. 283.
MUFTI, the primate, or chief eccleiaic, and of OETlNGI-l Count, a chriian church built at Chal
greate authority among the Turks; whom they lileaoak in 'Thrace by his intete, _ 74.
are bound to conult in all caues of importance, OFFENSEY, a village in Lower Saxony, 159
whether eccleliaical, civil, or military, 69 OxE, aTutkih weight of about two pounds three
Muczvazan, a ort of turbant worn by the o quarters avoir depois, 6. See Ryraat, V. iii. p. 12.
cers of the di-vdn, 68 OLEARIUS Mr. junior, Profeor of humanity at
MULDAW, a river, which runs thro Prague, 134. Leiick, 14.;
MULVETELEE, a river near the village Minya': in OLYMPVS MYsENvs, a mountain near the city
ll/lyia lldinor, 58 Praia, decribed, 50
MUM, ee BRUNSWICK. OPERA HOUSE, ee HAMBURG.
MUSCONISXA iles, ituated between the continent OPERAS, an account of thoe at l/ienna, 122
of ieolia and the iland of Mitylene, 33 ORANGERY. ee HONSLARDYKE.
MUYDEN, a town in Holland, 169 ORGAN, a remarkable one at Harnburg decribed
154
N. ORPHANOTROPHWM at Hall, founded by Mr.
NAERDEN, atown in Holland, 169
NAKEIB mndi, the chief of the berzft or de Frank, 14.',
l'cendants of Mahoment, 70. sheri in Cante OSMAN, ee OTTOMAN.
mir, p. 216, ignies an inly pern. OSMANOGLI, that is, Oman'r on, or decendant,
NAMAZ, the common and daily prayers, which 9. See Ltunelav. Hyt. Ture. p. 418.
the Turks are injoined to repent ve times in OSTRICHES, at Sebonbran decribed, 118
twenty four hours, 47 OTMARSH, a town in Overil, 15;
NAOZ, the body of a Greek church, 81 OTTOMAN, made Pru/ia the r capital of the
NAPOHE. the part/1 of a Greek church, 81 Turkih empire, , 5t
NATOLIA, or ANATOLIA, antienty Aia minor; OVAL, a town in Bohemia, 134
34, 3 OvrD's Metamorpboes, m. no
NEMETHX M B. ptosor of Philoophy at Clau
Ovm's TowER, a ruinous one building not far
enburg, 97 from the Btoborur, on the European ide, 47
NEMETHI Sam. Profeor of divinity at CIaa/n
burga 97 P.
NEPOMENENVS, ee MEPOMIENVS. PACTOLVS, a river near Sart or Sardr's, decribed,
NEPTUNB, ee STATUES. 15
- NESSELH/S, keeper of the Imperial library at V' PAGET Lord, ambaador from K. William to the
enna, turned Papi in order to quality himelf Porte, the manner of his audience of leave at
for that imployment, 121 Adrianople, 69, 70. Entertained by the grand
NESTORIVS, the place where his herey was con oizir, 70. Preents given and received by him,
70, 71, 72, 80, 92, 96, 107; 131- His Equipage
demned, 35 and retinue, 72. 77, 78, 90, '106. Entertained
NEUFV iLLE Mr. his character, and curioities, 164. by the Prince of Valachia, 79. His reception up
NEUGEBAC, an imperial palace near I/ienna, 118 on entering Tranylvania, 86, 87. At Roll, 113.
NICHOLAS Saint, his church at Leip/tek decribed,At Vienna, 115, Audience of the King and
141; And college at Mena, 17+ Qleen of the Romans, 13:
NIPHT', or NYMPHE, a river nearMagneia, ome PAmLEnuRG, a town in Saxony, 146
account of it, 12 PALACES, thoe of the Prince of Valacbia at Ba
-N1SHANGEE BASHA, an ocer, who etsthe Grand eare and Tergovi/I decribed, 79, 82. Of the
Signiofs tura, or name, to all orders ent from Emperor ator near Vienna and Pragae, 1 1 7, 1 18,
the Porte, 66. See /ilon's Seraglio, p. 610. 126,Poland':
of 13 5. Count Traun's140.
at Dreden, at Petronel,
Duke 125. King
of Brun-i
NOMADES SCY'L'HAE, ee TURCMEN
wic's at Hn and Mfembatel, 146, 147. That
NORBERT Saint, patron of Bohemia, 134. His of the Elector of Ham-ver, 151. Of the Prince
tomb in the church of the Premonratenians of Orange in the wood near the Hague, 164..
at Prague, 's 136
And at Honardyke, 166
NoRL1cU1, a village near Smyrna, ignifying the PALAMuTcw, a village near Smyrna decribed, 2
pomegra'tau village, 2. The word gui, is a diyl PALVS ARTYNIA, a lake fed from, mount Olym
lable, and denotes a village. Leunclav. Hi/I.
put, decribed, 51
Turc. p. 406. . HANAUA, orVirgin Mother, her image decribed, 75
NORTBERN, a town of the United Provinces, at
the connes of W'epbalia and Overil, 16: PANNONIAN ALPS near Baden, in zxyiria, 126
N'vMi-nn, a plain near Smyrna, 3 PAPER
 INDEX. * 189
PAPER, a ne ort madeo ilk, 69. Curious PRAGUE, the metropolis of' Bohemia, decribed,
work cut in it by a woman at Rotrcrdam, 165 134.. The town houe, a church and college of
PARtz-PAPA Fr. Profeor of Greek at Enyed in' Jeuits, Emperor's palace, Capuchin cloier,cloi
Tranylvania, 95 er of Premonratenians (called the Sba-wbo)
PASCHAL coLOURs, decribed, 8r
and Univerity, decribed, 134*,13s, 136, 137.
PRizMoNsTRATENsrANs, ee PRAGUE.
PASHA, the governor of a Turkih province, 76
PRIEST TOWN, ee POPEST.
PASHACUI, a village in Thrace, 73, 74.
PATRmRcH of J'erua/em, his reidence at Bucu PROCESSION at l/'ienna decribed, 124.
re in Valachia, 80 PRocHoRvs, a manucript of the Evangelg's aid
PAUL Saint, his prion, a tower at Epbeur o to be written by him, 22
PROCONESVS, ee MARMORA.
called, 2;
HPONAOZ, the outward chapel of a Greek church,
PAULINS, an order of monks, who never eat eh
81
nor h, 132
PEINE, a town in the dutchy of Brunwrclr, 149 PRosERPrNA, ee MEss1NA._
PROSZLO, a village in Hungary, [07
PELORVS, a promontory of Sicily, 17;
PRUCK, a town in dzyiria, decribed, 114.
PENTATEUCH, ee BlBLE. PRVSA ad Argantbonium, ee Ctvs.
PERA, a town near Co'antinopIe, 47
PRUSlA, a city at the foot of mount Olympus, 'an
PERGAMVS, a city in IVyia Major, 52 tiently called Prua adOIympum, to diinguih it
PERNXTZ, a town in [Ham-ofa, 132 from Prua ad/Irgantbanium, so. The manner
PEST, a city in Hungary, decribed, 109 of pining ilk there, ib. Its baths, ib. AGreek
PETERSWALDT, a town in Bohemia, 138 incription there, 51
PETRONEL, a village on the Danube, 125. Re PSALMS, a copy of them in the characters called
mains of antiquity, and Count Traun'r palace Ciceroniani and Cyprianici, 148
there decribed, 125, 126 PURSE, a umm of money in Turkey equal to an
PHOCAEA, ee FOCHIA VECCHlA. hundred pounds erling, 82
PHRYGtvs, or HYLLVS, a river near yatira, 56 O.
PHYRITES, a river between Ebiur and Smyrna, Q/Am, ee MORAVIA.
o BARTS, coins current in Valachia, 85, to;
PICTURES, ne ones in Luxemburg cale, 126. I:
R.
Vienna, 129, 130 RAB, a town and river in Hungary, 11;
PlEDRA DE PUERCO, an account of it, 157 RABNlT'Z, a river in Hungary, iL
PlETIsTs in Germany, 146
RABUTIN General, his character, 9z
PmN, a town in Upper Saxony, 139 RAscRAD,a palace belonging to the pahd oNzica
PISMETLEE, a town in jMyia Mnor, 60 pall, 76
PLAT DUTCH, the language ofHamburg, ame REIS EFFENDt, the bigb chance/lar in Turkey, 65
dium betwixt that o Germany and Holland, 158 RElSNER George, enator of HeIman/Iadt, 90, 9;
PLEBANVS, the title of the chief paor of the RHEGIVM, a town on the coa oNap/n, 17;
' Unitarians at Clauenburg in Tranhl-vania, 97
RHENISH wmn, ee HAMBURG.
PLntss, a river in Mnia, 14;
PLlCA POLONICA, on the head of a man at dla'ny RHOETEVM, near Troy, decribed, 3.,
in Hungary,- the eects of cuting it o, to8 RHYNDACVS, a river in Pbrygia, 5t
Po George, born at Prague, his range voracity, ROBBERS, how treated in Turkey, 70
15 7 RODOLPHVS AVGVSTVS, Duke oBrunwr'cl', his
noAanimr'iim, a tract of mountains near Sue houe at Hen, 146. His government and
gierlz'c/l, decribed, 58 character, 143, [49
PoMPEY's Column, ee SYMPLEGADES. RODOPE, a mountain in 771race, 52
PONTE n'ERCI-HBNE, ee UZUNKUPREE. ROMANVS, conul of Lcipid, 14,
PONTE Grande and Piccolo, two bridges near Con RosNAw, a town in Tranylvania, 37
antz'nople, 38 ROTTERDAM, a city in Holland, zg;
Pores-r, or PRlEST TOWN, a town in Valachia,
RUKAR, a village in Valachia, decribed, 84,
77 RUMELI HISAR, or the Roman cale, the antient
PORPHYRY pillars, at Mandabo'ra, 58
Seor in Thrace, 36. So called from Rum-yli, the
PORTA JANlCVLA, ee SEVEN TOWERS. part of the Romans) the later Greeks taking on
PORUMBACK, a village in Tranylvania, decribed, them the name of Turn-Job) and brar a cale. See
89 Cantem. p. 75. *
Pozzo P. a Jeuit at Vienna, famous for painting, RYSWICK, a village in Holland, 162
t 117 _C c c SACRED

_,7_ -._
I9o INDEX.
S. iinople decribed, 45. And at ddrt'anaple, 63,
SACRED con-ram, ee AFIA man.
66, 67
SALA, a river in Suaia, 14; SESTOS, ee RUMELI HISAR.
SALT Prrs, at Saltzbnrg, 92. 772erda, 96. And SEVEN TOWERS, a cale at coryiantinaplz, 38. De
Hall, cribed,
14.; 43
SALTznURc, a town in Tranylvania, o called SHARKAN, a town in Tranylvania, decribed, 88
from the alt pit: there, 92. SHARHEES, porticos at zidrianople for the recep
SAMOS a river in Tranhlwnia, 96 tion of particular trades, 67
SAMOTHRAClA, an iand oppoite to the mouth SHEEP of Hungary, their horns long, raight, and
of the Hebru: in Thrace, 34. twied, and their wool exceeding coure, 107
SARDAM, a town in Holland, ome account of ir, SHEPHERD SCYTHIANS, ee TURCMEN.
166 SHEIUFF, ee THREE SHiamFFs.
SARDIS, a city in Lydia, now called Sart, t 5. Its SHERRADIN Count, his dexteriry inhooting, 12;
ruins decribed, 16 StcAMBRrA, ee BUDA.
SART, ee SARDlS. SIGEVM, a promontory near Troy,
34
SAXONS, ettled in Tranylvania under Gay/22 the e SlGRH'M, ee Srcvm.
cond king ofHungary, 99. Their government, SIGURi, a cape in the iland Lrhor.
100. And religion, 101 SILK, ee PRusrA. 33
SAXONY, the manner of the Duke's inveiture by StMow, ee AESEPVS.
the Emperor, 124.
SINAN pahzi, his epulcher at Gallipali, 61
SA'LAWA, a river in Bobemia, 13;
SxNvs CmNvs, 49
SCACCHIA Iudus, a book written upon that ubject
by Chriianur Jugzgur, Duke of Brunwick, 148 Smvs MELAS, ee CARDlA.
ScALA SANCTA, twenty eight airs, up which our SlPYLVS, a mountain near Magnzia, 5. Decribed,
Sa-uiar was led to Pilate's houe, which were ent 12
to Conantine 'be Great from Jerualam by his SLONEY, a town in Bobemia, 138
mother Htlm, and are now kept at the church SOLACKS, the Grand Signior's body guard, 69
of St. j'a/m Latmzn in Rome, 117. SeeLa-Z': SoLoMoN's temple, ee HAMBURG.
A Trawls, Par. i. p. 113.
SOLYMAN BFFENDI, his account of Roman arms
SCALE, or port, for paing the Hdkhant at Fer reerved in Mngnqia cale, 9. His civility to
dck, 60 the travelers, 10
SCAMANDER, a river near Troy, runing into the SOLYMAN Sultan, his maque at Cmz/Iantr'napIr, call
Hellehont, 34. Decribed, 35 ed the SoIymanjd, decribed, 40
SCHAURTZENBURG Count, his ratagem in taking SoLYMANJA, ee SOLYMAN Sal/an.
the town Rab, 1 13
ScHoNBRAN near Vienna, the Emperos palace SoMLYo, formerly a eat of the kings of Hungary,
there, and mmagerie, 1 18 98
SOPHA, a Turkih room, having the oor covered
SCHUTZ, an iand in the Da'mbe, '12 with a carpet, and a mattres on both ides, and
SCHWEKA, a village and river in Auiria, 114. at the upper end, about a yard broad and a foot
SClPIO AstA'rrcvs, ee ANTIOCHVS. high, over which cloth is laid, or other rich
SCLAVONIC language, 85 u, and cuhcons next the wall to lean upon,
SCUTARl, antiently cbryhpolis, a city in Bit/rynia 3' 39
- oppoite to Carantinopk, decribed, 43 SoPmA, Princes dowager of Hanawr, 150. Her
character, 15:
SCYLLA and Charybdis decribed, 173, 174.
SOPHIA Saint, her church at Con/Iantt'noph, now
SEA COMPASS, its eects on the cale hill at turned into a Turkih maque, decribed, 47
Mgma, 10
SoRNDoRF, a village in Lunenlmrg, 152
Suu Count, 89. His cale atH/zenburg decribed,
SORRICUI, a village on the river Bull-w in [Wya
94 Mnar, 59
Snmcur, a village near Smyrna, ' 31
SELICKAR AGA, the chief word bearer to the SOTALEA, antiently Curna, a bay in ietalia, 32
Grand Signior, 69 STAGNVM PBGASEVM communicates with the river
SELIM Sultnn, his moque at ldrianal: decribedCaar, 21
STAMBOL, or ISTAMBAL, the Turkih name for
64
SBLIMEE tur'bant decribed, 66 Co'yfantinoe, 47
SELYMBRIA, a city of That', not far from He STANl'LLO Step/names, Profeor of Philoophy at
raclia, * 38 Claumburg in Tranlvania, 97
SENlGEE, a village in Thrace, 73 STAON, a Bulgarian Chriian, aged rzo years,
SERAGLro, a Turkih palace, an old one of the who had three times changed his teeth, 7;
Grand Signior at Magntia, 7. That at Can an 1 Srarues,
 lNDEX. 19:
STATUEs, one of out Sat/ior in the cloiier of the Tznoovrs'r, a city in Valarbia, and a convent
Premonratenians at Prague, armed to have near it decribed, 83
weated blood, 136. A bras one of an old Ger
TESKERGEE
nrior, BASHA, ecretary to the Grand Sig
67
man idol decribed, 143. One of Neptuneat
Mena decribed, 174. Another of out Sawor
and the Virgin, believed to have been taken from TEYA, a river in Auria, 1z1
the life, zb. THEOCRITVS, a manucript of him in the enators
STEKEN, a village in Bohemia, 132. library at Leipieb, 144.
STEPHEN Saint, his church at I/ienna decribed, THERDA, a town in Tranylvania, remarkable for
1 16. A one preerved there, as one of thoe, its alt pits, 96. An incription there, ib.
with which he was martyred, 1 17 THESAVRVS LINGVAE LAT'NAE of R. Stepbanuir,
STERNFORT, a mall cale near Hamburg, 153 with m. notes of his own writing, in the poei
STIFER ALLAH, in the Turkih language, Godfor ion of Mr. le Clere, 167
bid, THOMASIVS, a Profeor in the univerity of Hall,
60
STOCKERAN, a town in Auria, 131 141'
STOLNICHO, a Valachian word, igniying aow THRACE, its hore decribed, 38, 4.:
ard, 73 THRACIAN Bqpbarus decribed, 41, 42
STRADA Jacobur, his manucript of antient medals THREE SHBRlFFS, a moque at zldrianople o called,
in the imperial library at I/ienna, gzo 63, 64. Thee heric are galleries, from whence
STROMBOLI, a burning iland near Sicily, an ac the ezan, or arred bymn, is ung; and are o
count of it, 17; called from the word heri; which gnies
boly. Cantem. p. 215, 216.
STRYCHXVS a learned proeor at Hall, 145
OYZIAZTHPION, the altar of a Greek church, 81
SUSEGIERLICK, a village on the river de'pur in THYATIRA, a city of Lydia decribed, 53. Greek
jMy/ia Mnor. The word ignies the Water ax, incriptions there, ib.
or Bualo town, 52, 58
Trnrscvs, a river in Hungary, my
SUTTON Sir Robert, ambaador to the Porte,-his
manner of audience of the grand vizr, and TIVAN, aTurkii word for a oeilt'ng, 7
grand igm'or, 65, 66. His preent to the grand TMOLVS, a mountain in Lydia, 15. Decribed,
ignior, 68
17, 18
SYLVA HERCYNIA, now called Bebemerwaldt in TOKAI, a mountain in Hungary, famous for its
Bohemia, 132 generous wine, I07
SYMPLEGADES, ilands near the entrance of the TOPHANA, a town near Co'antx'napb, o poite to
Thracian Bopborur, 42. A pillar on one of Scutari, at the entrance of the Bo orur, 41,
them falely called Pompey's column, ib, An in It is o called from rope, or the foundcryof canon.
cription on the bais of it, ib. Dr. Pocorbe, vol. ii. par. ii. p. 135.
SZEKELI, a people of Tranylvania, 99, 104.. Their TRAGOE, a Chriian village in Bulgaria, 7;
religion, * 10! TRANsYLvANrA, its former ate, 98. Taxes ex
SZEKHELYHID, a town in Hungary, m, acted by the Emperor, 99. Its inhabitants, go
vernment, and religion, ib. Soil, minerals, and
T coin, 103. The dipoition, habit, and cuoms
TAIN, a Valachian word for an allowance, 77 of the people decribed, 104, los
TARTALECUI, avillagc in Lydia between Magne TRAUN Count, his decent, and palace at Petronel,
ia and_ Tbyatira, ignifying the board village, 125. An incription there, 126
from the trees, which are there awed into boards, TREBXSOND, a city of Capadocia, 69

56
TRIANTA, a village between Epbeu and Snyrna,
TARTALEE,_ a hill not far from S'nyrna, 2
I
TARTAR HAN, his letter to the Emperor, 120 TRINITY, repreented in one at Pa in Hungafy,
TARZA, antiently Tarius, a river running thro the 109 On a pillar at Prud int!wrie,
bras, at Vienna,
' - "4" In
plains of Zelta, in Vyia Mnor, decribed, 58, 1 33
15
TROAS, a country in dia minor,
TEFTERDAR, or DEFTERDAR, from the Greek 59 TRoGILwM, a cape nearEpbeiu, 33
hooz'ga, the hin or 'vel/um on which they write, TROY, its antient ituation uncertain, 35. The ruins
66. This ocer has the whole management of of new Ilium miaken for it, ib.
the external revenue among the Turks. Cantem. TSANAD, a town in Tranylvania, 93
p. '46. TUNZA, a river running into the Hebra: at Adria
TEKELY Count, defeated general Hetger, 87, but nop ,
was lain in that defeat, 39
TEMNVS, a mountain in deolia decribed, 52, 57
Tnnanos, an iland, with a town of that name,
Tunxs, their genius, 6, 13. Leave their hoes at
' a '

m the Aegean ea, oppoite to Miia, 23 the entrance of their mogm, 8. Permit no
new
I 99' I. LNZDZE fX;
new Chriian churches to be built, 13.T_eir mapz Uult'rakmns, their-worhjpin Tranylvania, Io)
vner of cutingincriptions on tones, 24.. Ue _no Urrjpnn, a towntin BuIgaLia, x _ 75
chairs, 31. Liquors ued by them, 57, 62. Their URGANLUX, a village betweenurgutE-and Sar
ceremonies at giving audience to an ambaador, dl'' ' t, z_ ' 14.
65. Their cuom of treating robbers, 70. Ex-_ Uk 1, three at Scbonbr'anin Auria decribed, 119
travagant devotion of one of their ects,'* ' I ib. Urkact-i-rithe chief cityo the province o called,
TUTRACAN, a town in Bulgaria on the' Dan'ulze, ' _ _ ' _ ' -* l 'g162
_.- __ .-.. ."_- 76 Uzhnoaz ALon, atown in _Bulgaria, t' 'i"76
TUYTSCHENBRODT, a fortificationbn thcVriver UzuNicurriti-za, atown in Thrace, o called rornl
Sazawa in Bohemia, where the Emperor Sigi its long bridge,"fignifying a bridge; '62
mund was defeated' by: General Zez''ap 13;" . ,
,
Two BR'o'rtai-ms, hills nearSmyrna, 2 a * 7' LWJ
TYRiA, a city in Ionia decribed, 19.' With the WALCOWITZ, a town in Bohemia, z 33
Greek churches'there, 7 ' 2o WALTHEIM, a town inBolzemia, 133
WASSER CRATZ, a mall hamlet'in Bohemia, 13;
. ' V. ' .' WAY, a branch of the Danube, - .' - 112'
VAARr Micbael, Profeor of Philoophy at De WENCESLAVS Emperor, a remarkable ory ofhim,
lorccyn in Hungary, r 106
' ' ' ' * 119
VALACHI in Tranylvania, their condition and way WESER, or Vrsvttms; a river between Lower
of life,
VALAcHm, 101 ' Saxony and mpbalia, "decribed, '
the country decribed,i77, 82. ' Cour r6o
WESTPHALIA, a country in Germany, ome ac
tey of the nobility," '79." x The prince nominated
count of it, 161
by the Turk, 85. Its former ate, ib. Taxes
WILDESHUSEN, a town in W'epbalia, ubject to
impoed by the Turks, ib. The current coin,
the Elector of Ham-ver, - 160
n'b. Adminiration of juice, ib. ' The language,
religion, churches, anddr'es of the inhabitants', 86 WlLLIAM GEORGE, Duke of ZeIl, his age, 152
W1NE,*'an excellent ort about lldrianople, 71,
VALIDEB a moque at Co'antinople o called, 40
How made at ,Baden. _ 128
VANDALE An'tany, aphycian, his character, 167 Wtssannnn'o, a city in Tranylvania, the Calvinii:
UCHA, a village in Tranlpania, 89
- 'church there decribed, 94. Latin incriptions
Venom, avillage in-TranyI-vania, ' ' 88 there, P * " 93'
'YEsPREm Step/Maur, '-_bihop of the Reformed WITCHCRAFT, how tried in Tranylvania 'and
' ' church in Tranylvania, 94, Hungary, - ' ' Io;
-_V1c'roR1A Sancta, an account of carrying her WoLrEMnUTEL, a town in Lower Saxony, de.
bones in proceon, 124. cribed, 147. x-The cathedral, new church, and
V1BNNA, the capital city ofAuria, decribed, 115. cale, z'b. Famous for excellent beer, 149
'i The cathedral church, 116. Other churches WURZEN, a town in Upper Saxony, w,
. and convents, 117. Palaces and libraries, ib.
Univerity and academy, 121. - A remarkable Z.
execution of a woman there, 123. The inve ZABANIUS Ihacur, divine of Herma'adt, who
iture of the Duke of Saxony, 124. A pom publihed an anwer to Campiani Ratianes decent,
pous proceon, ib. ' I
_Vtoo, an account of the victory obtained there by ZAGYWA, a river in Hungary, 12,
the Englih eet, 138. A Latin poem on the ZECHIN, or Cnsoym, a gold coin in Tranylvania,
_,arne, * ' t at "9 about 9 s, 6 d, in value, 10;
VlNCENT Mr; of Anerdam, his cabinet, 166 ZEISKA General, ee TUYTSCHENBRODT and
'VINEYARDS, how incloed at Baden, 123 CzAsLAw.
. Vmom, ee MARY. ZELIA, plains in lllyia minor, now called Mnydr,
\ " VIRGIN FORT, at Komora in Hungary, o called 58
i - becaue never taken by the enemy, "2 ZE_LL, a city of Lunenburg, 15:
LV1SAKNA, ee SALTZBURG. ZERICLE, a village in Lydia on the road from
lvtsvkcrs, ee WESER. Smyrna to Sardir, 15
UjVAROS, a town in Hungary, _ 107 ZEVGMA, ee CLAUBENBURG*
VIZLR, ee GRAND Vmm. ZILAK, a Calvini village in Tranylvania, 97
I.
'VlZiR KAYA, ee KAYA. ' ZINGANS, or gypics, 93. Find gold dult in the
ULRICVS ctntonius, Duke of Brunwick _and Lu river Aranyar, . .' N _..9
nenburg, his government and character, 148, 149 ZNAIM, antiently x'yIcdo/lanium, atown inidamt ' 5 \
t ULUBAT, a village in Mya, formerly ipollonia ad - in which is a pillar incribed with anewkind of
Gloria Patni,
-
' , 265." r _ _
_ * Rhyndacum, > 52 .c_ ' .. ' fp'nYv 'lbv .'. .
.. . , a a
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