LOOKING MOVING CHURCH

AT LUXE FORWARD OF KARL

GERMAN DOCUMENTARY
LVMH AND KERING
REMAIN CONFIDENT GROUPS IN BANGLADESH TAKES CLOSER LOOK AT
IN FACE OF SLOWING ACTIVELY ADDRESS LABOR FASHION AND RELIGION,
WITH THE HELP OF KARL
GROWTH. PAGE 4 SAFETY ISSUES. PAGE 2
LAGERFELD. PAGE 12

WWD
SECURITY BREACH

Prosecutors Indict Five

In Data Hacking Scheme
By VICKI M. YOUNG

FEDERAL PROSECUTORS on Thursday charged five

men with what is believed to be the largest hacking
and data breach scheme ever prosecuted in the U.S.
According to the criminal indictment, the indi-
viduals targeted more than a dozen firms including
Carrefour SA, J.C. Penney Co. Inc., The Wet Seal Inc.,
FRIDAY, JULY 26, 2013 $3.00 WOMENS WEAR DAILY
the Nasdaq Stock Market, 7-Eleven, Visa Inc., Dexia
Bank Belgium and Heartland Payment Systems
that resulted in the theft of more than 160 million
credit card numbers and more than $300 million
in losses. According to the indictment, the alleged
scheme began in 2005 and continued until July 2012.
The indictment alleged that the defendants hacked
into the computer networks through an SQL injec-
tion attack, in which the Structured Query Language
that programmers used to manage data was tested for
vulnerabilities and then infiltrated through malicious
codes, or malware, on the system. The indictment also
said the defendants, who regained access to networks
through persistent attacks after losing access due to
security efforts, had malware implanted in multiple
companies servers for more than a year. Once in the
system, the defendants used sniffers to collect and
steal data that was then sold to third parties.
Retailers such as Wet Seal and J.C. Penney were
victims of the SQL attack that resulted in malware
placement on their networks.
According to the U.S. Department of Justice, each
stolen American credit card number and associated
data was sold to a buyer for $10, the Canadian equiva-
lent information for $15 and a European counterpart
for $50. The numbers and related data were then sold
to resellers around the world. End users take the in-
formation and imprint it on the magnetic strips of
new credit cards for use at a store.
In addition to the five men four are from Russia
and one from the Ukraine the indictment listed four
co-conspirators who were not indicted in Thursdays
SEE PAGE 5

Players Make Moves

In Saks Sale Saga
By DAVID MOIN and EVAN CLARK

Garden
SAKS INC. stock was active Thursday, amid contin-
ued speculation that a deal may happen soon and that
private equity firm Sycamore Partners could enter
the bidding for the luxury chain in tandem with an-
other party.

Path
Aerin Lauders lifestyle brand is blooming
with a scent quintet that will be launched
in November. The fragrances Gardenia
Rattan, Amber Musk, Lilac Path, Ikat
Jasmine and Evening Rose feature
floral notes and each will retail for $110
for a 50-ml. bottle. They will be sold in
about 100 specialty store doors in the
U.S. Industry sources estimated they
could do $8 million at retail in their first
year on counter. For more, see page 6.
PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO, STYLED BY SHARON BER
There were also reports that Saks and Hudsons
Bay Co., which is bidding on Saks, had hired addi-
tional banks for advice.
Shares of Saks closed down 0.2 percent, or 3 cents,
to $15.18 Thursday in heavy trading. More than 4.5 mil-
lion shares traded hands, well above the 2.7 million av-
erage for the past three months. The company ended
the day with a market capitalization of $2.2 billion and
the stock has proven to be volatile as investors bet on
whether the company will ultimately be bought out.
It could not be determined who Sycamore could
be partnering with, but sources said it could be
Starwood Capital, which is mostly interested in Saks
real estate and is said to be bidding for Saks against
Hudsons Bay, operator of Lord & Taylor in the U.S.
and Hudsons Bay in Canada. Hudsons Bay could
purchase Saks on its own or choose a partner to mini-
mize risk.
Sycamore is considered a smaller private equity
but the firms manager director and cofounder, Stefan
Kaluzny, is well-connected. Hes not big enough to go
after Saks alone but he can pick up the phone and
call anyone, said one financial source. Sycamores
SEE PAGE 5
2 WWD FRIDAY, JULY 26, 2013
Joor Secures $15M in Funding
By RACHEL STRUGATZ
NEW YORK Joor, the online wholesale fash-
ion marketplace, said Thursday it raised $15
million in Series B funding.
The round was led by Canaan Partners, with
contributions from Advance Publications, parent
company of Cond Nast and its Fairchild Fashion
Media division, as well as existing investors
Battery Ventures, Forerunner Partners and Lerer
Ventures. Through its Web site at jooraccess.com,
an iPad app and a soon-to-be-launched iPhone
app, Joors goal is to streamline and digitize
the buying process, enabling a seamless con-
nection between brand and retailer.
This investment enhances FFMs ever-
growing portfolio of services offered to the
fashion community, specically in relation to
connecting brands with retailers and buyers,
said Gina Sanders, president and chief execu-
tive ofcer of Fairchild, which includes WWD
Pact Targets Bangladesh Safety Issues
By MAYU SAINI
A COALITION of industry and government agencies
signed an agreement in Dhaka, Bangladesh, Thursday
to more aggressively address safety and labor issues in
the countrys troubled garment industry.
The National Tripartite Plan of Action, or NTPA,
is a measure that focuses specically on re safety
and structural integrity, both part of the critical is-
sues looming over Bangladeshs $20 billion garment
industry after the recent tragedies that claimed
more than 1,200 lives.
Key provisions would include regular assess-
ment of the structural integrity and re safety of
factories, strengthen labor inspection and focus on
workers and management training in addition to
strengthening workers rights and helping with the
rehabilitation of disabled workers.
Its a step further, especially because its ed international labor standards.
driven from within, with the guiding hand of the
International Labour Organization, a Bangladesh
Garment Manufacture and Export Association, or
BGMEA, ofcial told WWD.
Driving it from within were the tripartite stake-
holders representatives of the government, em-
ployers and workers organizations. These included
Mikail Shipar, secretary of the Ministry of Labor
and Employment; Md. Fazlul Hoque, president,
Bangladesh Employers Federation; Mohammad
Hatem, rst vice president, Bangladesh Knitwear
Manufacturers and Exporters Association; Roy
Ramesh Chandra, secretary general IndustriALL
Bangladesh Council, or IBC, and Sukkur Mahmud,
chairman, National Coordination Committee for
Workers Education, or NCCWE. The meeting was
held at the Ministry of Labor and Employment.
We welcome this endorsement of the integrated
National Tripartite Plan of Action on Fire Safety
and Structural Integrity, which will be the main
framework document for improving working con-
ditions in the garment industry in Bangladesh,
Srinivas B. Reddy, director of the International
Labor Organization, or ILO, ofce in Dhaka said
in a statement. It is another important step in our
progression towards improving worker safety in the
RMG sector in Bangladesh.
The ILO has been asked to assist in the imple-
mentation and coordination of the new NTPA, ac-
cording to Reddy.
The plan of action would be dynamic, and would
clarify the rules by setting out legislation and poli-
cy, administrative and practical activities. It would
then identify the partner responsible for imple-
mentation and a time frame.
The plan has been in the making for months. It
is based on both the National Tripartite Plan of
Action on Fire Safety in the ready-made garment
sector signed on March 24 and the Joint Tripartite
statement adopted on May 4.
The pressing need for action in Dhaka contin-
ues. The horror of the tragedy at Savar, where 1,129
people lost their lives after the nine-story Rana
Plaza collapsed, trapping garment workers in the
rubble, as well as several incidents of re, includ-
ing the one at Tazreen Fashions where 112 people
died last November, continues to stir fear and panic
among workers in other factories.
and Style.com. This exemplies Style.coms
intensifying interest in commerce solutions for
the industry and consumers.
Joor offers data and real-time analytics to
both buyer and seller and eliminates paperwork
and manual data entry.
The company connects 40,000 retailers from
Barneys New York to Lane Crawford to Net-a-
porter with more than 600 designers. Brands
like Rag & Bone, 3.1 Phillip Lim and See by
Chlo upload line sheets, and buyers conduct the
entire buying process from the Joor platform.
We want to expand our sales offices
around the world, said Mona Bijoor, Joor ceo.
Currently, we have ofces in New York, Los
Angeles and Milan, but we really should have
ofces in Paris, London, Tokyo and we need to
start thinking about China.
Bijoor said the product and technology team
has 15 staffers now and would be doubled.
Joor launched in March 2010 and raised its
Series A funding of $5.5 million in July 2011.
A high level Tripartite Committee, chaired by the
secretary of the Ministry of Labor and Employment,
will review, update and implement the Plan of
Action, including for activities to be carried out this
year and in 2014 and 2015. The ILO will support this
with a three-year program on improving working
conditions in the ready-made garment sector.
In an interview with the BBC this week, Reddy
said that one of the important commitments is
to assess all the ready-made garment factories in
Bangladesh by the end of this year. It is estimated
that some 3,500 factories are there, he said.
Separately, but also involving the ILO and the
ministry of labor, was a rumble of discord, expressed
at a press conference at the Dhaka Secretariat. This
has been increasing since the statement by ILO on
Monday that described the new Bangladesh Labour
Amendment Bill passed on July 15 as several im-
portant steps short of being in conformity with rati-
Rajiuddin Ahmed Raju, minister for Labor and
Employment, expressed his dissatisfaction with the
ILO reaction to the amendment.
The ILO noted that a number of restrictions to
workers freedom of association rights, which have
been the subject of ILO concerns, were not ad-
dressed by the amendments. For example, major
areas that remain to be addressed include the re-
duction of the 30 percent minimum membership re-
quirement to form a union. The amendments also
do not extend freedom of association and collective
bargaining rights to workers in export processing
zones. Some new provisions of the law, for example
with respect to rights of workers who are contract-
ed for services, and new exclusions from coverage
of the labor law of certain sectors, may raise new
and additional concerns about conformity with the
ratied conventions, the ILO said.
Ahmed Raju said on Thursday that the govern-
ment was ready to protest the ILO statement and
that being a neutral body, the ILO cannot give such
statement, especially without holding discussions
with the government, the ILOs local ofce or other
labor organizations.
Meanwhile, safety and compensation for work-
ers continues to be a key concern for global groups
as well. To this end, IndustriALL Global Union,
IndustriALL Bangladesh Council and other global
allies have called for a meeting in Dhaka on Aug.
11 and 12 and will invite the companies that placed
orders in the damaged factories to attend.
These include brands such as Benetton, Mango,
Wal-Mart, Primark, Disney and international agent
Li & Fung, all of whom had orders placed at fac-
tories located in the Rana Plaza building or at
Tazreen Fashions.
We hope that all brands associated with these di-
sasters will make attendance at this meeting a prior-
ity, said Liz Parker of the Clean Clothes Campaign
group. Charity projects such as training or psycho-
logical support are totally insufcient. These families
need full and fair compensation so they can start to
rebuild their lives in a manner of their own choosing.
According to the Clean Clothes Campaign, the
estimated long-term compensation for Rana Plaza
will be more $71 million and for Tazreen, $5.7 mil-
lion. These gures include compensation for pain
and suffering, as well as long-term loss of earnings.
WWD.COM
THE BRIEFING BOX
IN TODAYS WWD
Behind the scenes
COURTESY OF BULGARI
at Bulgaris Omnia
Crystalline eau de
parfum campaign
shoot featuring model
Edita Vilkeviciute.
Federal prosecutors indicted ve men, who targeted rms
including Carrefour SA and J.C. Penney Co. Inc., in a massive
hacking and data breach scheme. PAGE 1
Speculation mounted Thursday that private equity rm
Sycamore Partners could enter the bidding for Saks Inc.
in tandem with another party. PAGE 1
Kering and LVMH Mot Hennessy Louis Vuitton on
Thursday reported lackluster second-half results as
economic volatility continued to impact the brands. PAGE 4
Aerin Lauder is expanding her lifestyle brand into
fragrance by launching ve scents in November. PAGE 6
Pomellato and ICR-ITF have produced three juices for
the jewelers rst fragrance line, Nudo, after the brands
famous Nudo rings. PAGE 8
Joe Eck is working to move forward in life since the
passing of his husband and coauthor of the just-released
To Eat: A Country Life. PAGE 10
Miu Miu is bringing its feminine perspective back to the
Venice Film Festival, which this year runs from Aug. 28
through Sept. 7. PAGE 11
A four-hour documentary, brainchild of cologne-based
television journalist Martina Neuen, likens fashion to
religion. PAGE 12
ON WWD.COM
BEAUTY: Bulgaris latest fragrance is crystal-clear. The Italian
jeweler is introducing Omnia Crystalline eau de parfum, an
upscale rendering of its 2005 eau de toilette of the same
name. For more, see WWD.com and page 8.
CORRECTION
The Piaget store that will open at 36 East 57th Street in
Manhattan this fall will be temporary until its permanent home
at 730 Fifth Avenue is completed. This information was incorrect
in a Fashion Scoop on page 7, Monday.
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 NEW YORK //SEPTEMBER 18, 2013

CLAUDIA ALLWOOD JULIA GOLDIN MICHAEL WILLIAMS RACHEL TIPOGRAPH

BENEFIT COSMETICS REVLON A CONTINUOUS LEAN GAP

ADDITIONAL SPEAKERS INCLUDE:

. JENNIFER KASPER, MACYS INC.
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4 WWD FRIDAY, JULY 26, 2013

Global Challenges Weigh on Kering, LVMH

posted a 3 percent gain in
By JOELLE DIDERICH first-half profits to 582.4 mil-
and SAMANTHA CONTI lion euros, or $763 million, on
broadly at revenue. In the six-
PARIS Leading luxury con- month period, revenue was up
glomerates Kering and LVMH 1.4 percent to 4.68 billion euros,
Mot Hennessy Louis Vuitton or $6.13 billion.
on Thursday reported lack- Second-quarter revenue
luster rst-half results, as the grew 1.6 percent to 2.31 billion
slowdown in China as well as euros, or $3.02 billion, in the
persistent economic volatility three months to June 30. In the
in Europe continued to penalize same period, the luxury division
the worlds top brands. grew 6 percent to 1.56 billion
Despite a sharp slowdown euros, or $2.04 billion, while the
in sales growth compared with struggling sport and lifestyle di-
the same period last year, both vision fell 7.8 percent to 744.2
groups said they remained up- million, in line with Kerings
cent of sales in the half.
He said sales trends in
Mainland China and Hong Kong
were positive, as Gucci con-
tinues to pursue its strategy of
selective distribution in the re-
gion. Nonlogo leather goods also
notched double-digit increases
in China, accounting for more
than one-third of sales in the
rst quarter.
He also said that sales in
Europe picked up in the second
quarter thanks to traffic from
both locals and tourists, with 10
percent growth in both retail and
wholesale. We have great ambi-

PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE

beat for the balance of 2013.
Bernard Arnault, chairman
and chief executive ofcer of
LVMH, said the groups rst-half
performance reected the ex-
ceptional appeal of its brands.
It is with condence that we
approach the second half of the
year and rely on the creativity and
quality of our products, as well as
the effectiveness of our teams, to
pursue further market-share gains
in our traditional markets as well
as in high-potential emerging ter-
ritories, Arnault said.
Franois-Henri Pinault, chair-
man and ceo of Kering, called the
groups first-half performance
solid and said weak points
were being addressed.
The strength of our brands,
their organic growth potential, the
good geographic balance of our
activities and the commitment of
our teams all reinforce our con-
dence in the groups ability to fur-
ther improve its performances in
the full year, he said.
During a conference call after
the results were disclosed, Jean-
Marc Duplaix, Kerings chief
financial officer, said the sec-
ond half of the year would bring
more of the same. We are ex-
pecting the trends to continue in
luxury, and we know there is no
short-term turnaround for the
revenue and gross margin trends
in the sport and lifestyle division.
The results contrasted
with those at rival Herms
International, which last week
reported a rise of 11.8 percent
in second-quarter sales.
Here, a closer look at the
numbers.
LVMH cited exceptional protability at the Louis Vuitton brand.
LVMH
At LVMH parent group of
brands including Bulgari,
Cline, Dom Perignon, Sephora
and Guerlain net prots fell
6.2 percent in the rst half to
1.58 billion euros, or $2.07 bil-
lion, on sales that rose 5.6 per-
cent to 13.70 billion euros, or
$17.98 billion.
Revenues in the second quar-
ter gained 5.7 percent to 6.75 bil-
lion euros, or $8.81 billion, after
increasing 5.5 percent in the
rst three months of the year.
In the second quarter of 2012,
LVMH had registered a 26.5 per-
cent jump in sales.
Sales of fashion and leather
goods rose 1.2 percent in the six
months to June 30, totaling 4.71
billion euros, or $6.19 billion,
with prots from recurring opera-
tions broadly at compared with
the same period a year earlier.
With signicant progress in
the makeup segment, revenues
from perfumes and cosmetics
rose 4.5 percent to 1.80 billion
euros, or $2.37 billion.
The conglomerates watches
and jewelry business posted a
2.5 percent drop in sales to 1.31
billion euros, or $1.72 billion,
while wines and spirits were up
2.8 percent to 1.81 billion euros,
or $2.37 billion.
forecasts for the full year. tions for Gucci, he said, adding
Jean-Franois Palus, group that 10 to 15 new stores were in
managing director, said it had the pipeline for this year.
been a challenging rst half Boucheron, meanwhile,
for the division, with the ongo- notched double-digit growth in
ing weakness in the textiles and the rst and second quarters.
sporting goods markets. With regards to Christopher
All gures have been convert- Kane, which Kering acquired
ed at average exchange rates for earlier this year, Duplaix said
Revenues in the selective the periods to which they refer. the company hoped to grow the
retailing segment jumped 17.4 In the second quarter, all of brand substantially.
percent to 4.21 billion euros, or Kerings major luxury brands
$5.54 billion. Prots from recur- with the exception of Gucci
ring operations at the division, notched double-digit revenue
which includes business from gains. The other brands division,
Sephora, rose 9 percent in the which includes Stella McCartney
first half as LVMH ploughed and Alexander McQueen, grew
funds into its new concessions 15.7 percent; Bottega Veneta,
in the Hong Kong airport. 11.9 percent, and Yves Saint
While LVMH does not provide Laurent, 11.7 percent.
breakdowns by brand, it cited During a conference call,
exceptional protability at its Duplaix said that in the rst
cash-cow Louis Vuitton brand half, McCartney and McQueen
and said the brand continued both notched growth in ex-
to develop well with the open- cess of 25 percent. In the
ing of two new stores in Venice same period, Bottega Veneta
and Munich. It also highlighted saw its sales rocket 25 per-
steady growth at Cline. cent in Mainland China.
The conglomerate provided no Saint Laurent, meanwhile,
sales or revenue guidance other saw robust sales across all
than to reinforce its global lead- the main geographic regions. Revenues at Gucci grew 1.6 percent
ership position in luxury goods. He said Saint Laurents leather in the rst half.
LVMH noted it would pay goods sales were up 20 percent
out an interim dividend of 1.20 in the rst half, while ready-two- Asked on the call about
euros, or $1.51 at current ex- wear collections advanced 30 LVMHs recent purchase of Loro
change, on Dec. 3. It released percent. Piana and Kerings own plans
the gures after stock markets Revenues at Gucci grew 1 per- for acquisitions going forward,
closed in Europe and is due to cent in the second quarter and Palus complimented the brand,
have a conference call today to 1.6 percent in the rst half, com- but added, A transaction of this
discuss the results. pared with 11 percent in the rst size is not part of our acquisi-
six months last year. Duplaix said tion strategy.
KERING that nonlogo leather lines had Earlier this month, the
Kering, whose stable of con- registered double-digit growth French giant revealed it was buy-
sumer and luxury names in- while sales of logo accessories ing an 80 percent stake in Loro
cludes Gucci, Bottega Veneta, made of fabric were down. Mens Piana for 2 billion euros, or $2.56
Christopher Kane and Puma, wear generated close to 30 per- billion at current exchange.

They want customers to feel the brands.

Joseph Sitt Buys Champs-Elyses Property
By SHARON EDELSON
JOSEPH SITT has added another trophy
to his real estate portfolio.
Sources close to the company con-
rmed that Sitt, chief executive ofcer
of Thor Equities, purchased for an esti-
mated 260 million euros, or $344 million,
65-67 Avenue des Champs-Elyses, a
key property in the heart of the bustling
Parisian shopping district. The retail
space is occupied by Nike and Tommy
Hilger. The length of the retailers leas-
es could not be learned.
Sitt is one of New York Citys more ag-
gressive real estate investors. Thor holds
20 million square feet of space world-
wide, valued at $9 billion, including a de-
velopable parcel in Red Hook, Brooklyn,
not yet under construction.
Sitts strategy at many properties
has been leasing space to luxury ten-
ants, while raising rents in the process.
Thor has signicant retail holdings in
Manhattans key shopping areas, with
prized properties such as the former
Takashimaya building at 693 Fifth
Avenue. Thor in May leased 20,000
square feet on four levels to Valentino for
a agship. Thor acquired the building for
a reported $142 million in 2010.
A self-made mogul, Sitt was born in
Brooklyn and worked at flea markets
while attending New York University. He
created Ashley Stewart, a plus-size urban
brand, growing the chain to 380 stores
and $400 million in sales. Sitt left Ashley
Stewart to focus on real estate, which
he believed to be the key to the brands
success. The experience gave him the
insight to advise retailers, he said. We
work mostly with luxury brands, Sitt
said. We give them a total strategy for
the business and the right positioning.
We even help them with stafng and hir-
ing employees. Ceos call for my guid-
ance, he said, citing Andrew Rosen. I
get calls from Mickey Drexler, he added.
According to Sitt, Thor High Street
is opening stores for Tory Burch and
Fred Perry overseas, and Mulberry and
Elie Saab in the U.S. One of Thors lat-
est deals is securing 2,200 square feet for
British fashion staple Kent & Curwen at
816 Madison Avenue at 68th Street.
Sitt is trying to establish Thor in other
overseas markets. We do a small amount
Joseph Sitt
of work in Asia, he said. My big advan-
tage is that I worked in the Philippines
for fashion and manufactured in China,
Indonesia and Turkey [for Ashley
Stewart]. In Latin America, were match-
makers, putting brands together with
operators or franchisees. All the brands
are going global. Theres no more staying
within boundaries of borders.
Internet pure plays are warming to the
idea of brick-and-mortar stores. Amazon
and Facebook are looking for physical
stores in the New York area, Sitt said.
Samsung is looking for stores. Location is
part of branding. Its part of advertising.
Thor also owns 597 Fifth Avenue,
known as the Scribner Building, which
now houses Sephora. The company
has amassed properties on Broadway
and Greene Street in SoHo and on
Washington Street and 14th Street in the
Meatpacking District. Thor also owns
retail addresses in Chicago, Miami, San
Francisco and Los Angeles.
Thor, along with Meyer Bergman,
a European property group, in 2010
bought the Burlington Arcade in London
for 104 million pounds, or $159 million,
which at the time was considered under-
priced for the shops, built in 1819, which
have been called an historic and archi-
tectural masterpiece.
Thor will nance its Champs-Elyses
deal through investment from Bergman,
as well as pension funds and other inves-
tors, sources close to the company said.
Thor also acquired a string of store-
fronts in Cannes, France, which were
leased to Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga,
Brioni, Burberry, Yves Saint Laurent,
Emilio Pucci and Paule Ka.
Ever the retailer, Sitt said, [Real
estate] is a really exciting adventure. I
think one day I will do another chain.
 WWD FRIDAY, JULY 26, 2013 5
WWD.COM

Five Indicted in Largest Known Data Breach Conspiracy

{Continued from page one}
unsealed document. One of those individ-
uals named as a co-conspirator is Albert
Gonzalez, a Miami resident who was sen-
tenced to 20 years imprisonment in 2010
for his role in leading a group of cyber
thieves stealing more than 40 million
credit and debit numbers in a Boston fed-
eral indictment in what was then consid-
ered the largest U.S. identity theft case.
The 2008 Boston indictment charged him
with hacking into retailers wireless net-
credit card theft, they may stop using
credit cards and then we go back to what
retail was in the Seventies. Its a lot less
convenient when you have to rely on
cash and not credit. Data breaches are
not just crimes against the victims, but it
also threatens the entire [payments] sys-
tem, the attorney said.
Epner explained why the premium
at $50 was so high for a European credit
with a European credit card than a sto-
len U.S. credit card. Someone handing
over a U.S. credit card to a shop, but who
doesnt look like an American, will set off
red ags, he said.
This type of crime is cutting-edge,
said New Jersey U.S. Attorney Paul J.
Fishman. Those who have the exper-
tise and the inclination to break into our
computer networks threaten our eco-
nomic well-being, our privacy and our
national security.
processing agencies, we also identied
no instances of fraud to suggest that any
such data was taken.
Since 2008, Wet Seal has implement-
ed numerous system enhancements to
eliminate our vulnerability to this type
of attack. The security of our customers
personal information is of utmost impor-
tance to us, and we acted quickly and de-
cisively when this matter arose ve years
ago. We are pleased that time has proven,
as we believed from the outset, that none
works along U.S. Route 1 in Miami. The
largest target in that scheme was The TJX Data breaches are not Fishmans ofce disclosed that the
defendants covered their tracks through
of our customer information was taken.
Charges in Thursdays 11-count in-
Cos. Inc. Others were Sports Authority,
DSW and BJs Wholesale Club. He also just crimes against encrypted communications or by meeting
in person. They also allegedly altered the
dictment ranged from conspiracy to un-
authorized access to computers to wire

the victims, but it also

faced indictments in New York and New
Jersey. The New Jersey indictment was
the one unsealed today, but had remained
sealed since 2009.
Mitchell Epner, counsel to the law
settings of inltrated networks to disable
security mechanisms from logging their
actions, as well as evade security soft-
threatens the entire ware protections.
Of the retailers and credit firms,
fraud. The maximum term of imprison-
ment for some charges is ve years and
for other charges, as much as 30 years.
No trial date has been set.
Two of the defendants were arrest-

rm of Wilk Auslander and a former fed-
eral prosecutor in New Jersey, said, Its
not unusual to have an indictment under
seal for several years. Often times it is
because the defendants are out of the
country and you want to have the indict-
ment in place to stop the statute of limi-
tations from running out.
The former prosecutor also explained
that both the U.S. Attorneys Ofce in
New Jersey and the Department of
Justice have been at the forefront of tack-
ling these types of information technol-
ogy and data privacy cases.
This is very serious stuff, Epner
said. The two offices recognize that
if people really fear identity theft and
[payments] system.
MITCHELL EPNER
card number and related data when com-
pared with the American cost, noting
that the fraud is discovered less quickly
in Europe than with a card from North
America and that the cards value is
heightened by how long one can use it
before it being agged.
The whole value in stealing credit
card information is the ability to use it
to get real goods and services. These de-
fendants can get more goods and services
7-Eleven declined comment, while only
Wet Seal responded to questions as of
press time. Alyson Barker, Wet Seals
general counsel, said, In May 2008, we
became aware that a criminal group
obtained unauthorized access to our in-
formation systems in an attempt to steal
credit and debit card data of our custom-
ers. Through an investigation led by an
independent, third-party computer fo-
rensics rm, and corroborated by mem-
bers of the U.S. Secret Service and U.S.
Department of Justice, we found no
evidence to indicate that any customer
credit or debit card data or other person-
ally identiable information was taken.
In working with the major credit card
ed while traveling in the Netherlands.
Three others remain fugitives. In addi-
tion, one of the men who remains at large
is also the subject of two federal indict-
ments from the U.S. Attorneys Ofce in
Manhattan. One indictment is for the al-
leged hacking of computer servers used
by Nasdaq and the other for alleged
stealing of bank account information by
hacking U.S.-based nancial institutions.
Assisting in the investigation that led
to the indictment disclosed on Thursday
included special agents from the U.S.
Secret Service, public prosecutors with
the Dutch Ministry of Security and
Justice, as well as the U.S. Attorneys
Ofces in Kansas and Georgia.

now for American-made goods. Thats becoming

Saks Suitors Lucky Line Touts Made in USA more important to consumers.
Lucky Brand teamed with Greensboro-based
Cone Mills to develop innovative domestically
Making Moves
{Continued from page one}
By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG

LUCKY BRAND is getting in on the American

holdings include The Talbots Inc., Hot
Topic and a 51 percent stake in Mast
Global, a sourcing firm. At Talbots,
Sycamore has also brought back certain
former members of the retailers execu-
tive team to engineer its turnaround.
Sources on Thursday also said KKR
& Co. had renewed its interest in Saks
after considering buying Saks and
merging it with rival Neiman Marcus
in May. Neimans, however, shot down
that idea at the time. A KKR spokes-
woman declined to comment. If there
is a [sale] process going on, you can be
sure KKR is going to take a look, said
the source.
made denim. Lucky Brand lined up factories in
Los Angeles and Tullahoma, Tenn. to cut and
sew the jeans. Shoppers will know from the
made movement, by launching a capsule collec- Made in the U.S. of A. label that the jeans
tion of jeans this fall. were not sourced overseas. DeMattei spoke en-
Founded in Los Angeles in 1991, the com- thusiastically about supporting a mill that has
panys decision to play up its American roots been supplying denim to apparel companies
and unveil locally made jeans was not such a since 1891. In an effort to be competitive, the
leap, according to chief executive ofcer David super-stretch denim and other American-made
DeMattei. Lucky Brand employs 310 people in jeans will retail for $129. Wade noted that the
its Los Angeles headquarters, and 2,600 part- price point is part of the companys Denim
time and full-time staffers in its 224 specialty Democracy ideology that is meant to be inclu-
and outlet stores. Having opened locations in sive and affordable.Everyone out there who is
Las Vegas, Orange County and Atlanta in the thinking about doing it at much higher prices,
past week or so, there are plans to introduce DeMattei added.
two more locations next week. An ad for Lucky Brands new The Los Angeles-based company will spread
Consumers ever-increasing interest and de- American-made jeans. the word with fall ads and a 64-page catalogue
mand for Made in America products only rein- that ships to 400,000 shoppers next week. The
forced the idea that the timing was right, DeMattei said. As ads spell out American Denim Made for you in the U.S. of
for why that is resonating with shoppers, he said, There is a A. Lucky Brand expects to sell half of the 150,000 units of do-
lot being written about thats going on in China in terms of the mestic-made jeans that it has ordered by the end of this year.

$15.18
quality and the type of environment clothes are being made Going forward, U.S.-made products should make up 25 percent
in, DeMattei said. There seems to be more of a movement of all denim sales, DeMattei said.

CLOSING PRICE OF SAKS

SHARES ON THURSDAY.
The DealReporter on Thursday wrote
that Hudsons Bay retained Bank of
America Merrill Lynch to advise on a bid
for Saks and that Saks is working with
Morgan Stanley in addition to Goldman
Sachs on strategic alternatives.
The sovereign wealth fund
from Qatar, which this year bought
Printemps in Paris and in 2010 pur-
chased Harrods in London, has been
interested in Saks, but this week nan-
cial sources suggested the Qatar group
would only make a run for Saks if the
share price in a deal was in the $15 to
$16 range, and would bow out if the
price jumped to $17 a share or higher.
These individuals said the Qataris
arent necessarily interested in a play
for just a trophy asset, and are not
about to overpay. The same is said to be
true about Hudsons Bay.
WITH CONTRIBUTIONS
FROM VICKI M. YOUNG
Vera Wang Headed to Rodeo Drive
DIALED-IN as she is with the Los
Angeles scene, Vera Wang will make that
connection even tighter with next years
opening of a Rodeo Drive store.
As a go-to designer for red-carpet-
bound actresses and VIP brides, Wang
has a Hollywood home and spends up to
ve weeks on the West Coast each year.
With the lease for her Melrose Avenue
boutique up in a few months, she plans
to move into the two-tier, 5,500-square-
foot boutique at 428 North Rodeo Drive
in January. So much of my business
and my perspective is from and done in
Hollywood, Wang said Thursday.
We are ready to take on a more in-
ternational neighborhood. But its not as
though L.A. is an unimportant city given
our afnity for Hollywood, Wang said
Thursday. It is the second-biggest city
in the country. And it is certainly a city
that reects and recognizes all of our
culture the arts, music and fashion
The company will move into what
Herms has been using as a temporary
space until its new freestanding store a
few doors down opens in early September.
Anything that has Herms on it Im glad
to participate in, Wang quipped.
Saint Laurent also has a pop-up store
nearby while its Beverly Hills location gets
an overhaul. Having secured her own loca-
tion this spring with the help of chief oper-
ating ofcer Bill Mitchell, Wang said, We
were very lucky to have gotten the space
because a lot is already [taken] on Rodeo.
For the stores design, Wang turned
to Brian Sawyer of the New York-based
interdisciplinary architectural firm
Sawyer Berson. He also got the nod
to renovate the designers New York
apartment two years ago. Once the new
Los Angeles address is set, Vera Wang
bridal, red-carpet gowns, ready-to-wear,
fragrance and accessories will be show-
cased. It will be a whole compilation
of things. We are working on a new shoe
deal, so there should be that too, Wang
said. There is a very international
crowd in LA. There are a lot of shoppers
from the Middle East and Asia thats a
hop and a skip away as well as all the
local ethnicities. Its a huge world.
Before the nancial crisis a few years
back, Wang had lined up a second Melrose
Avenue lease for her Lavender label.
After hitting the brakes on that project,
the company kept the location, but never
moved in. As is the case with all of her
ve locations in the U.S., the new one will
be owned and operated by her company.
Internationally, there are a total of 20 Vera
Wang and Vera Wang Bride shops, with a
Beijing store scheduled to open in the
next 18 months. The designer has set her
sights on Miami and eventually Paris for
freestanding stores, but she has yet to sign
a lease in either city.
Having been making regular trips to
Los Angeles for the past 24 years, Wangs
celebrity quota shot up after Sharon
Stone wore one of her oor-length skirts
to the 1998 Oscars. But dont expect the
designer to become bicoastal after her
Beverly Hills store opens. She said her
travels will continue to center on the
lead-up to the Golden Globe Awards
and the Oscars, as well as the occasional
photo shoot. I have never lived there,
nor would I live there. I have a business
to run in New York, Wang said. R.F.
6 WWD FRIDAY, JULY 26, 2013

beauty SoftSheen Aims for Inclusivity

By BELISA SILVA

AFTER EXPERIENCING a 7
ista has really welcomed it with
open arms we have become
the number-two styling line in
drugstores in just a few months.
percent increase in sales be- We think the consumers were
tween 2011 and 2012, ethnic hair waiting for a point of view ex-
care brand SoftSheen-Carson is pressed [on shelf] in the natu-
looking to continue broaden- ral category.
ing its brand proposition and Although the brand
its consumer base. would not talk numbers,
Going from a niche, insiders believe last years
relaxed [hair] focused six new stockkeeping
consumer base and in- units within the Dark and
creasing our multiethnic Lovely and Au Naturale
outreach are big focus- brands generated $30
es of ours, said Nicole million at retail. The new
Fourgoux, vice president products Amla Legend
and general manger of Rejuvenating Oil, Au
LOral-owned SoftSheen- Naturale Beyond Gentle &

PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO

A New Bouquet for Aerin Lauder
By JULIE NAUGHTON
SINCE ITS FOUNDING in April 2011, Aerin
Lauders lifestyle brand has quickly ramped
up to include cosmetics, home items, jewelry
and purses. So it should come as no surprise
that shes planning to take her brand into
fragrance and that shes doing it in a big way
with a quintet of scents.
Gardenia Rattan, Amber Musk, Lilac
Path, Ikat Jasmine, and Evening Rose will
launch in November.
One of my earliest memories is fra-
grance, said Lauder, founder and creative
director of the brand which bears her name,
in an interview in her midtown design atelier.
When I think about certain people and mo-
ments in my life, fragrance is always involved
whether its going for a bike ride and
smelling honeysuckle for the rst time or gar-
Carson. Our consumer is The new Sulfate-Free Wash, Dark and
highly engaged in the category, Amla oil. Lovely 6 Week Anti-Reversion
but she is still underserved. We Shampoo, Conditioner and
saw an opportunity to offer innova- Styling Cream Extra Strength
Lauders scent collection. tion customized to her needs. could add an additional $5 million in
Since Fourgoux joined the brand the rst year at retail.
in 2011, she has been focused on Fourgoux said growth is being fu-
capitalizing on the ever-growing eled in great part by a white space
Jofa design, Marila, which combines two
multiethnic consumer base, which in the ethnic hair category. Citing
is expanding at a rate of more than IRI data, Fourgoux said that in less
double the general market, accord- than six months post-launch, Amla
unique designs to create a signature batik. ing to Symphony IRI. Legend became the number-four
Ikat Jasmine is intended to personify a To reach this demographic, ethnic hair care line in drugstores.
modern woman effortless style and in- Fourgoux said she has been zeroing in Amla was launched into a very high-
triguing femininity, said Lauder. Key notes on product innovation, both with con- loyalty segment, and it was very well
are of jasmine sambac and jasmine Egypt sumers seeking chemical straighteners received, said Fourgoux. Now in
infusion, combined with exotic tuberose and natural offerings, and a more
eur, honeysuckle, tuberose infusion and inclusive marketing strategy.
sandalwood. Its outer packaging was in- The relaxer segment is un-
spired by the blue and white oral wallpa- derinnovated, said Fourgoux,
per in Lauders childhood bedroom. adding that the brand is also
Evening Rose is meant to be a day-to- looking to tap into professional
night fragrance. Juicy blackberry and rich markets. We are recruiting con-
cognac are blended with voluptuous rose sumers out of the salon. We are
centifolia and Bulgarian rose absolute recruiting into the category from
and incense. The outer box is of the Aerin outside of the market and within,
for Lee Jofa Hither pattern, which was upgrading her experience into a
adapted from an English Jacobean hand- more involved ritual.
blocked linen from the Lee Jofa archive, One ritual which Fourgoux
dating back to the early 20th century. has looked to update was relax-
Each of the scents will retail for $110 for ers. Earlier this year, the brand

PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO

denias in my hair when I got married. They a 50-ml. bottle. In the U.S., they will be car- launched Amla Legend, a line
all evoke memories and stories and moods. ried in about 100 specialty stores, including inspired by Indian ingredients.
Doing an entire wardrobe was key, said Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Among its offerings is a No-Mix,
Lauder, because she wanted to provide a Fifth Avenue. They will also be available at No-Lye Cream Relaxer, billed as a
scent for each mood and time of year. Holt Renfrew in Canada and Selfridges, more sensorial, more gentle, relax-
Lauders attention to detail is evident Brown Thomas and John Lewis in the U.K., ing experience. We think this be-
throughout this project, even down to the fra- as well as on Esteelauder.com and Aerin.com, comes even more relevant because
The fall offerings.
grance cartons, which feature patterns used noted Jane Hudis, global brand president of about 50 percent of [female African-
in Lauders fabric licensee with Lee Jofa. As Este Lauder, Aerins beauty licensee. American] consumers are relaxed, the second half we are extending our
well, each glass bottle is topped by a different- While Lauder and Hudis declined com- said Fourgoux. In September, the line, which is helpful for ritual build-
ly colored stone that incorporates the color of ment on projected sales, industry sources brand will launch a complementary ing and regimen use.
one of the ingredients in the Rejuvenating Oil, $9.99, a hair treat- Although historically targeting
juice green for Gardenia ment said to smooth and enhance an African-American consumer,
Rattan, pale brown for shine. Even those ethnic customers Fourgoux said the brand is now focus-
Amber Musk, pink for Lilac who do not use relaxers are opting to ing on additional segments, including
Path, white for Ikat Jasmine wear their hair straight, she said. To Latinas. Amla for now from our per-
and purple for Evening Rose. address them, in July 2012 the brand spective has broader [potential], she
It has an element of fra- launched its Dark and Lovely 6 Week said. A lot of our advertising strat-
grance and lifestyle brought Anti-Reversion Cream Serum, which egy had been [targeted to] African-
together, said Lauder. seals hair strands with an amino Americans, and were broadening on
Lauder and Kar yn complex to extend time between an ongoing basis. We have a very spe-
Khoury, senior vice presi- relaxing. In September, a new Anti- cic multicultural opportunity.
dent of corporate fragrance The outer boxes feature fabric designs from Lauders line. Reversion Shampoo, Conditioner To continue its momentum,
development worldwide and Styling Cream, $5.99 to $8.99, Fourgoux said the brand is focused on
at the Este Lauder Cos. Inc., worked with estimated that the fragrance collection could will be launched to strengthen the the digital space and has plans to in-
Firmenich to concoct the scents. do $8 million at retail globally in its rst year brands offerings for the nonchemi- crease its digital presence, namely so-
Gardenia Rattan is intended to capture on counter, with about 70 percent expected cal straightening shopper. cial media and integrated marketing .
the spirit of summer and has sparkling to be generated by North America. On the natural front, this As consumers get more and more
wet marine notes combined with gardenia, Lauder appears in the advertising, which September will also bring a new sul- knowledgeable, they understand our
tuberose and Tahitian tiare and amber. Its was shot in Palm Beach, Fla., by Claiborne fate-free shampoo, $9.99, to the Au products and are interacting with
carton is reminiscent of a summer garden Swanson Frank. In the shot, which will begin Naturale Anti-Shrinkage line, rst each other, she said. As consumers
and features the Aerin for Lee Jofa design running in December fashion, beauty and introduced in January. [continue communicating] we see
Sayre, a modern oral. lifestyle magazines, Lauder is wearing a o- Au Naturale is a big departure to much more cross-usage than in [the]
Amber Musk is inspired by winter, said ral Valentino dress which incorporates each reach out to the natural hair consum- general market. We want to early on
Lauder. It blends ambrox, coconut water, scents color. Its reminiscent of vintage er, said Fourgoux. The natural- encourage this behavior.
rose centifolia absolute, benzoin and musk. Este Lauder ads, said Lauder.
The carton features the Aerin for Lee Jofa The Aerin line includes myriad licenses.
design, Kenlyn, a personal take on the Candles are being done with Nest; cosmet-
oral prints that were always part of her ics are licensed to the Este Lauder Cos.
grandmothers home decor. The print is an Inc. The Aerin home object collection, pro-
McNeill Exits Beauty.com
adaptation of a French document in the Lee duced in-house, arrived during the holidays. KATHLEEN MCNEILL has left her cluding videos, photography, how-tos
Jofa archive that features two birds among Footwear, produced by Jimlar; fashion jew- post as president of beauty.com. and posts from guest editors, such as
exotic owers and foliage. elry, done by Erickson Beamon, and sun- McNeill, who had held the posi- model Helena Christensen and hair-
Lilac Path was inspired by the lilac bush glasses, by Oliver Peoples, were launched tion since 2006, stepped down on stylist Ted Gibson. She also recruited
which blooms at her late grandmother this spring. Coming in the fall are furniture Wednesday, conrmed a beauty.com makeup artist Romy Soleimani as its
Este Lauders summer cottage. It com- from E.J. Victor, interior lighting from Visual spokeswoman. rst beauty director at large.
bines lilac with galbanum, creamy jasmine Comfort, fabrics, trimmings and area rugs During her tenure, the site which Beauty.com along with its sister
lactones, angelica seed oil and orange ow- from Lee Jofa and tabletop and home and sells both mass and prestige brands site drugstore.com was acquired by
er. The carton features the Aerin for Lee decorative accessories from Lenox Corp. added a host of editorial content, in- Walgreen Co. in 2011. MOLLY PRIOR

The Nail Polish Effect
By MOLLY PRIOR
NAIL POLISH has added a
shiny gloss to beauty sales in
recent years, and the category
continues to grow at a robust
double-digit clip.
But its meteoric rate of
growth has begun to slow some-
what, showing a slight ssure in
the categorys lacquer, despite
a horde of new entrants into the
business across both mass and
prestige. Sales of prestige nail
products gained 19 percent in
the year-to-date period ended
in May, compared with an in-
crease of 42 percent growth for
full-year 2012 and 67 percent the
prior year, according to The NPD
Group Inc. In the mass market,
nail polish sales rose 19 percent
for the 52-week period ended
May 19, compared with gains of
24.8 percent for full-year 2012
and 35.7 percent in 2011, accord-
ing to SymphonyIRI Group.
Growth overall is strong,
and it continues to be strong.
The momentum is still there,
said Karen Grant, vice presi-
dent and global industry
analyst at NPD, adding that
an inux of new brands and
a urry of new nishes and
textures continue to spark
consumer interest. And
companies continue to
create new technology
to expand the category.
For instance, at the
Cosmoprof North
America trade show,
held earlier this
month in Las Vegas,
a company called
Tatz Nailz cre-
ated a stir with its
imaging machine
that allows users
to select from a
host of designs or
upload their own
digital image (say, the
pattern of their dress
or their boyfriends
photo), which is then
printed on each nail.
The whirl of activity has
created a billion-dollar industry large beauty companies have
in the U.S.: Retail sales reached increased their presence in
$1 billion in 2012, up 26 percent nail care, theyve also increased
from $793.8 million in the prior their exposure to swiftly chang-
year, according to Euromonitor ing trends and potential sales
International.
But for any category, main- analyst Mark Astrachan esti-
taining double-digit growth is a mates that OPI currently ac-
tall order.
Kiss Products Naughty and Nice Approach
By FAYE BROOKMAN
NEW YORK Cheryl Burke and
Disney Villains are two weapons
that Kiss Products is employing to
battle any fear of nail fatigue.
Burke, one of the most beloved
dance partners on Dancing
With the Stars, is the brand
ambassador for a signa-
ture series as part of the
Impress Press-On Manicure
collection, which is
marketed under Kiss
Broadway Nails division.
Burkes nail designer kits,
which retail for $7.99
each, will be available
exclusively with a major
push at Rite Aid, as well
as Wal-Mart from October
through November.
WWD FRIDAY, JULY 26, 2013 7
WWD.COM
Not everything can grow at sales and 20 percent of the
40 percent a year, but if it grows rms color cosmetics segment.
at 5 or 6 percent, thats pretty With increased exposure to
good. Growth invites a lot of the nail category, retailers and
people to jump in, but when you beauty rms are determined to
invite a lot of people, not every- encourage the categorys growth
one qualies, David Greenberg, spurt. Retailers including
president of Maybelline New CVS Pharmacy with Nail HQ and
York, Garnier and Essie at Sephora with its Nail Studio
LOral, told attendees at a re- have carved out generous dis-
cent panel hosted by Cosmetic play space for nail polish. The
Executive Women. Sephora in New Yorks Times
Industry consultant Allan Square expanded its Nail Studio
Mottus forecasted that gains area with seven nail play sta-
may settle in the mid-single- tions, outfitting each with an
digit range, but added, Its iPad and a host of nail polishes
a good spot to be in. Mottus and tools to allow shoppers to
noted texting which puts try the latest nail effects, such as
hands front and center has
served as a boon to nail groom-
ing. Nail is a heavy-use prod-
uct business frequent appli-
cation means you can sell a lot
[of bottles], said Mottus.
The categorys jaw-dropping
growth has prompted a slew of
acquisitions in recent years:
Essie is now owned by LOral,
OPI by Coty Inc., and Sinful
Colors and Pure Ice are part of
ombr, neons and brights, stud-
ded leather, and chalkboard.
The Ciat brand has created
a microsite for its Chalkboard
Manicure Kit that allows visi-
tors to share their designs in the
Doodle Gallery. The prestige
channel, in particular, is awash
with niche nail polish ranges, in-
cluding Ciat, JinSoon, Deborah
Lippmann, Julep, Nails Inc. and
Butter London.
A rendering of CVS Pharmacys Nail HQ display.
ments in secondary locations as
well to entice more impulse sales.
Secondary location plays a
big role in fueling sales growth,
said Annette DeVita, vice presi-
dent of marketing for the Coty
Inc.-owned Sally Hansen brand.
textures have inspired a host of
dedicated nail blogs, Instagram
photos and of course more
products. Upcoming launches
for fall include OPIs Designer
Series Raw Granite collection
comprised of two matte shades
with minerallike effects, namely
DS Pewter (deep silver) and DS
Lapis (sapphire blue). Coming to
Growth overall is strong and salons this October is Essie Gel,
the brands rst LED Gel System.
Essie Gel will be available in 36
it continues to be strong. The shades, and the manicure is said
to last for 14 days.
momentum is still there. But some wonder if the in-
creasingly bold trends in nail
may soon prompt consumer
KAREN GRANT, THE NPD GROUP preference to swing the other
direction toward cleaner, more
traditional looks.
I feel a little bit tired for all
Wa l g r e e n s High-impact displays, promo- the gimmicks, said Jin Soon
and its regional tions and dedicated large self- Choi, a highly sought after edi-
chain Duane service nail color units bring torial manicurist who oversees
Reade have focus, excitement and attention three eponymous nail spas in
cleared addition- to the category. Digital and so- New York and a nail polish col-
al space and cre- cial media as conduits for edu- lection that was launched in
ated dedicated dis- cation, incentive and engage- late 2012. Choi forecasted that a
plays for a rainbow ment with customers is also an simple nail color with a slight
of nail polish shades. area in which we have part- twist will be favored for fall.
The nail polish nered with retailers to highlight Choi is fond of a matte blue nail
A rendering of category continues to the category. DeVita said con- with a smooth nish and a sub-
the Nail Studio ourish, and we know its very sumers continue to experiment tle hint of shimmer. The shade
at Sephora. popular among our customers, with color blue and green Blue Iris (a deep electric blue)
said Shannon Curtin, divisional hues have been strong perform- is a best seller in the JinSoon
Revlons portfolio. As vice president and general mer- ers this year and dabble in Nail collection, which is sold at
chandising manager for beauty, nail art and special effects. Sephora, Henri Bendel, Space
personal care and seasonal Sally Hansen Fuzzy Coat, which NK and Nordstrom. While inter-
at Walgreens. There are new imparts a woven-ber effect, is a est in over-the-top textures may
trends developing daily, and we strong seller, she said. fade, clean nail art has staying
have expanded our assortment Like Sally Hansen, a host of power, said Choi, referencing
uctuations. For instance, Stifel to reect a variety of brands and nail polish brands continue to the Skinny V in gold on olive
nail accessories. launch new colors and nishes green nails that she created for
A number of stores, including to excite consumers. Their inter- Prabal Gurungs show during
counts for 6 percent of Cotys Wal-Mart, have placed assort- est in decals, art effects and 3-D fashion week in February.
Practicing seven days a week, we have
no time for salon manicures, Burke said
at an event where she gave a salsa les-
son and admitted her dream dance
partner would be Bill Clinton.
With Impress, I can change my
nails quickly to match my cos-
tumes without any damage to
my nails.
Disney Villains kits by Kiss Products.
Kiss is also scaring up
incremental sales with a similar and successful promotion last are seasonal Impress nails, nail dress,
Disney Villains kits ex- year also incorporating beauty items, lashes, lip tattoos and eye jewelry under
clusive to Walgreens. Walgreens ofcials conrmed. the Halloween Impress Manicure by
The four kits According to Grace Tallon, senior Broadway Nails collection. In particular,
named after Malecent, vice president of marketing at Kiss, the there are false eyelashes in designs re-
Cruella de Vil, Evil limited-edition kits have everything from sembling paper cutouts. We are trying to
Queen and Ursula high-denition glitter and striping tape bring something to the market that peo-
are part of a larg- to high-end salon nail art. Theres also ple havent seen and drive interest in the
er Disney program a style guide to assist do-it-yourselfers. season, Tallon said. The products will
that will launch at The kits will retail for $9.99. The designs be available in Rite Aid, Wal-Mart and
Walgreens at the can be layered over Impress nails. Walgreens and retail for $6.99 for nail,
Cheryl end of September. Kiss also has numerous products $2.99 for nail art, $2.99 for eye tattoos and
Burke Walgreens featured in the pipeline. For Halloween, there $3.99 for lashes.
8 WWD FRIDAY, JULY 26, 2013
beauty
Pomellato Gems Inspire Scents
By CYNTHIA MARTENS
MILAN Pomellato has made the leap
from colorful gems to perfume.
Playing on the brands famous Nudo
rings simple gold bands, each with a
rounded, multifaceted gemstone in the
middle Pomellato and ICR-ITF have
produced three different juices for the jew-
elers rst fragrance line, also called Nudo.
Pomellato is an important brand, strate-
gic for the future of ITF, said ITF president
Roberto Martone. We signed a long-term li-
censing agreement and we poured our best
energies into this launch. The two compa-
nies have many afnities: creative products
Made in Italy, our upscale positioning, and
the fact that they are Milanese, like us.
This was a project undertaken in
tandem with Pomellatos creative direc-
tion, devising a perfume concept that
brought the spirit of the jewel to ITF, said
Pomellato chief executive ofcer Andrea
Morante. He noted the jewelry rm delib-
erately held off entering the fragrance
arena until its international brand
awareness in key markets was high
and it could nd the right partner.
ICR, located in Lodi, Italy,
produces all of ITFs fragranc-
es, while Pomellato jewelry is
made in nearby Milan. The com-
panies signed a licensing deal
at the end of 2011. As of April
of this year, Pomellato is part of
the Kering group.
Martone said that the three
Nudo scents packaged in
rectangular, multifaceted glass
bottles with baublelike caps
were each linked to a different
customer demographic, although they will
all be available internationally through
select retailers. He noted the eau de par-
fums will be sold at about 850 top Italian
retailers, for instance, and reach about
4,000 doors worldwide when rollout is
complete. The Nudo scents will debut in
Western Europe and the Middle East in
September and October, and in Spring
2014 they will arrive in Eastern Europe,
Russia and Asia, before hitting shelves in
North and South America in October 2014.
The fragrances were selected keep-
ing the Pomellato woman clearly in mind.
A woman who is not necessarily conven-
tional, who is independent in her choices
and sophisticated in her elegance and in
her tastes, said Morante. He listed Europe
and notably Germany, where a new store
will soon open on Sylt island the U.S. and
China as the strongest markets for Pomellato
jewelry, and noted that the Chinese are mov-
ing toward a less-ostentatious luxury, more
intimate, more understated.
Pomellato Nudo Amber, an oriental oral
inspired by Madeira quartz and developed
by Aurlien Guichard, opens with notes of
orange ower absolute and Bulgarian rose
Pitti Fragrance to Explore the Past
MILAN Memory and fragrance have al-
ways had a cozy relationship.
At the 11th edition of annual fra-
grance fair Pitti Fragranze, slated for
Sept. 13 to 15, that bond will inform ev-
erything from the shows layout to a spe-
cial talk by perfumer Alienor Massenet
of International Flavors & Fragrances. In
addition, from Sept. 12 to 16 coincid-
ing with the Florentine edition of Vogue
Fashions Night Out department store
La Rinascente will dedicate three of its
window displays to memory through a
jumble of video clips from decades past.
The fair itself will again be held at the
Tuscan citys Stazione Leopolda, an old rail-
way station converted into an exhibition
FOR MORE
IMAGES, SEE
WWD.com/
beauty-industry-news.
Bulgari Updates Omnia Range
MILAN Bulgaris latest fragrance
is crystal-clear. The Italian jeweler,
part of LVMH Mot Hennessy Louis
Vuitton since October 2011, is intro-
ducing Omnia Crystalline eau de
parfum, an upscale rendering of its
essence, over a heart of Jasmine Sambac 2005 eau de toilette of the same name,
absolute and amber and a drydown of am- which the company said is the num-
brox, musk ambrettolide and vanilla from ber-one seller of all its fragrances.
Madagascar. The edp is aimed at the Middle Crystalline [edt] is the fragrance
East, U.S. and German markets. that has the broadest appeal world-
Pomellato Nudo Blue, a musky, oral wide, it does well in all markets, said
oriental created by Ccile Matton, takes Valeria Manini, managing director of
aim at Mediterranean tastes with its Bulgari Parfums,
London Blue topaz coloring. Top notes in- adding, The ad-
clude a bamboo accord, lemon and black- dition of an edp
currant, while the heart contains peony, brings an addi-
magnolia, iris and freesia, and the base is tional richness
a blend of white musk, heliotrope, amber- and depth to the
wood and vanilla. Crystalline line.
Matton is also the nose behind Alberto Morillas
Pomellato Nudo Rose, an edp conceived of Firmenich, the
for the Asian customer base that spurs creator of the en-
from the Rose de France amethyst and, tire line of Omnia
of course, roses. Top notes include pink scents, also devel-
grapefruit, peach, bergamot and water oped the new edp.
fruits; the heart is composed of rose, aquat- The objective was
ic lily of the valley and pink freesia; and to have a version
the drydown contains white musk, white ce- of Crystalline that
darwood, sandalwood and cashmere wood. [nearly] 10 years
later could be
The Nudo collection. much more rich,
luxurious, dressed
up while main-
taining the same
signature and ap-
peal of the [origi-
The Crystalline ad.
nal] fragrance, he said. The scent
opens with notes of mandarin and
lotus ower a long-standing Asian
symbol of purity over a heart of orris
concrete and heliotrope and a base of
sandalwood, Siam benzoin and musk.
Morillas described the edp as the
most feminine of the Omnia juices, one
that was sexy but never vulgar. Its a
second skin, he said, adding, This is
not just a more concentrated version,
its really a totally new approach for
this creation, tied to new, really unique
Martone would not disclose any sales and exclusive ingredients that t in
gures, however industry sources estimat- with Bulgaris modernity.
ed the Pomellato Nudo line could bring in
10 million euros in retail sales in its rst
year on the market, or about $13 million at
current exchange rates.
The brand is very aspirational, said
Namesake Pillar for Perry Ellis
Martone, adding that at this stage, only print
advertising is planned. Italian actress Tea By JAYME CYK
Falco fronts the campaign presented
as Botticellis Venus radiant, Martone IF PERRY ELLIS and Falic Fashion
noted with photography by Michel Comte Group have it their way, this summer
intended to evoke parallels between wear- will be Very Perry.
ing perfume and wearing jewelry. Three years after the launch of its
The edps are available in 25-ml., 40-ml. 13th pillar fragrance, Perry Ellis is cel-
and 90-ml. bottles, for 42 euros, 59 euros and ebrating its updated positioning with a
83 euros, respectively. Dollar prices are not new agship scent, Perry Ellis.
yet conrmed. The bottles come in boxes He [Ellis] always wanted to make
inspired by Michael Lins oral fresco in clothing that was stylish and witty
Pomellatos Milan agship, with owers in and never wanted fashion to take
relief and pink-gold lettering. A Pomellato itself too seriously, said Perry
Jewel Technology Bath Collection, with Ellis vice president of
jasmine, iris and rose scented products, marketing, Matt Cronin.
will also be available alongside body lotion Theres always a sense
and body cream, tinted in pastel shades to of levity to his work.
match the fragrance line. With the goal of
preserving its heri-
tage while injecting a
touch of spontaneity,
the Perry Ellis brand
was revamped in fall
space, and will continue to include the spring 2012. With a new slogan,
section of new perfume brands, as well as the Very Perry, and graph-
Charms area, dedicated to accessories. ic sign-off, a dot found
About 215 exhibitors are expected to on everything from the
attend the trade show this year, said Pitti inside lining of Perry
Immagine chief executive ofcer Raffaello Ellis shirts to brand ad- The bottle.
Napoleone, noting that those already con- vertising and imagery,
rmed included 138 non-Italian brands, of the brand is looking to add its latest
which 76 are French. He estimated that fragrance to the mix. To wit, the scents
Pitti Fragranze would draw about 2,700 square metal bottle aims to integrate
visitors total. the graphic, with a die-cut area reveal-
PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO
In keeping with Pittis ongoing inter- ing the teal-colored juice.
national push, this year Shahzad Haider, This is the rst fragrance that we
chairman of the Fragrance Foundation have been able to fully launch from bot-
Arabia, will discuss the Middle Eastern tle design to the [juice] itself to the im-
market, interviewed by journalist and per- aging [that is] reective of the new posi-
fume critic Chandler Burr. C.M. tioning, noted Cronin. Were targeting
The fragrance hits stores in
September worldwide, reaching about
22,000 doors. While Manini declined to
comment on sales projections, indus-
try sources estimated the entire Omnia
portfolio at about 120 million euros
annually, or about $158 million at cur-
rent exchange, and speculated that the
Crystalline edt and edp could together
bring in about half of that, once the
new scent has spent a year on counter.
Crystalline edp will come in two
sizes: 40 ml. for 69 euros, or about
$91, and 65 ml. for
85 euros, or about
$112. The bottle
follows the design
set out by previous
Omnia fragrances,
with pearly inter-
locking cylinders
inscribed with the
Bulgari name.
The campaign
shows fair-skinned
Lithuanian model
Edita Vilkeviciute
clutching the scent
against her dewy
bare skin, her
blonde hair loose
and capped with
a diamond tiara, a
pink gold ring with
delicate pav dia-
monds visible on
her index finger.
With stills shot by photographer Liz
Collins and a video directed by Sonia
Sieff, the images are intended to sug-
gest natural beauty and a soft, under-
stated sensuality.
Manini said Bulgari is investing
heavily in digital communication sur-
rounding the fragrance, while continu-
ing to promote the edp through more
traditional formats. Were going to put
a lot of emphasis also on sales points,
she said, noting the goal was to give
clients the feeling of closeness to the
brand while preventing the luxury
scent from feeling inaccessible. C.M.
men between the ages of 25 to 45, which
is also the target for the brand itself,
The man himself, Perry Ellis, in-
spired the concept for the namesake
scent, which was created by Givaudans
Claude Dir. The fragrance opens with
top notes of bitter orange, cardamom,
coriander and clary sage; a heart of
r, mint, cedarwood and lavender, and
base notes of sandalwood, patchouli
and white moss wrapped in tonka bean,
amber and musk. Perry Ellis for men
represents the new generation of
free-spirited, modern men who have
confidence in whatever
they wear, said Jerome
Falic, chief executive of-
cer of Duty Free Americas,
which owns Falic Fashion
Group. We developed the
fragrance with a focus to
offer the perfect comple-
ment to the Perry Ellis
mans fashion ensemble.
The Perry Ellis eau
de toilette will be car-
ried at 436 stores nation-
ally, including Macys,
Dillards and Boscovs,
beginning Aug. 1.
The ad campaign, shot
by Daniel Jackson, features model Paul
Kelley jumping to catch an oversize
Perry Ellis bottle. Print advertising will
run in fall books like Details, Esquire,
Essential Homme, InStyle and GQ.
While executives declined to com-
ment on projected sales, industry
sources estimate that Perry Ellis
could do $4 million in sales in its rst
year on counter.

Bridget Foleys
Diary
Suite
1521
lizzie Tisch
in mary
Katrantzou
and Kim
Kassel in
antonio
berardi.
Shop from the comfort of your
own home. or on the go, phone
in hand. Search, browse, click;
front-door delivery tomorrow.
Its the modern way. But is it al-
ways the best way? Two women
who know a thing or two about
soothing the fashion-acquisition
beast would argue no. Theyre
about to do something about it.
Kim Kassel and Lizzie Tisch,
longtime friends, longer-time
fashion junkies and new busi-
ness partners, want to renew
the personal shopping experi-
ence. Not personal as in were-
tracking-your-online-searches
personal, but as in come in,
talk, browse (the old way), meet
designers, try on and, most im-
portantly, discover personal.
Theyre about to launch Suite
1521, a shopping concept set to
open in a graceful 4,000-square-
foot former gallery space at 980
madison Avenue. The concept is
part trunk show, part in-person
flash sale, presented with an
aura of exclusivity members
only, with annual dues of $500.
We were thinking that it
should feel very intimate and pri-
vate and special, like you needed
a key to get in, says Tisch. The
name was chosen to suggest in-
timacy, and was inspired by a
conversation with her husband,
Jonathan Tisch, whos in the
hotel business, she says. Jon
and I had to go to something at
the regency, and we walked out
of Suite 1521. he said, Why not?
I called Kim said, Why cant we
use Suite 1521? (The actual suite
number of the showroom is 305.)
The Suite Set
Giles Deacon: Its a special thing for me, get-
ting to meet all these women and getting to
build that basis and understand what theyre
looking for. Theyre always great characters,
these women. Theyre really interesting
people, and its another interesting side to
the business.
Mary Katrantzou: Suite 1521 is a great idea
that gives us the opportunity to interact with
Exclusivity lies at the heart
of the business model. The
partners know they cant com-
pete with Saks, Bergdorf s and
Barneys, nor do they want to.
Both drawn to the arcane, the
unusual, the difficult to obtain,
their goal is to present in their
entirety collections that have
no or limited exposure in tra-
ditional retail and even online.
Its about establishing new de-
signers, Kassel says, designers
who dont have their own stores,
[who] cant get the representa-
tion to show their full vision to a
clientele here. They have a rack
or a T-stand, and by the time you
get to it, you cant find your size.
The partners conversation
is laced with the names of de-
signers theyve secured for their
launch preen, Todd Lynn,
rodarte, Tabitha Simmons,
Jonathan Saunders and with
references to their own fashion
soul-mate status. They men-
tion showing up somewhere in
the same prada leather coat
there were three made, says
Kassel and offer a charm-
ing anecdote about a charming
item: In a rare online purchase,
Tisch bought a markus Lupfer
sweater. I e-mailed Kim and
said, he just put up the cutest
sweater; you should go get it
too! And she said, If you tell me
its the one with the bunny ears
Im going to kill you. Turns out,
Kassel has already purchased
the sweater, not for herself, but
as a birthday gift for Tisch.
most of the launch designers
are British, a group Tisch and
DeSignerS on why Theyre exciTeD
abouT The SuiTe 1521 moDel.
our customers directly, as well as explore the
possibility of retail without the heavy financial
risk of opening our own store.
David Koma: When I was introduced to Suite
1521, I was drawn to the concept straight
away. I feel extremely excited to be part of it
for the upcoming SS14 season. I am really
looking forward to our first event together, as
it is always inspiring to connect with my clien-
PHOTO BY JOHn AquinO
Kassel were drawn to out of per-
sonal taste, prior relationships
and the fact that many are un-
derrepresented in the U.S. mary
Katrantzou, she of the artful
pictorial prints and slightly out-
there sensibility, was an early
recruit. Tisch became aware
of Katrantzou at Colette a few
years ago. The store didnt have
a particular dress in her size,
so Tisch Googled and stalked
before making contact with the
designer; the two ultimately
became friends. Tisch credits
Katrantzou with being the one
that sort of moved us forward,
putting them in touch with other
British designers.
Katrantzou calls Suite 1521
the perfect platform for young
designer brands based in the U.K.
who do not yet have their own re-
tail outlets in the U.S. I see it as a
stepping stone to opening a store.
Another key commitment: Giles
Deacon, of whom Kassel has been
a private client; hes made her
last two met gala gowns. A spunky
client-enthusiast, Deacon sees in
Suite 1521 a path to a robust U.S.
client base. his event (Kassel
and Tisch prefer the more cel-
ebratory term to the ho-hum ap-
pearance or impersonal sale)
will focus on what he calls cou-
ture and demi-couture, the part
of the collection made in his ate-
lier in London. I can come over,
I can meet the client base, which
[sounds like] all the right women I
want to be getting involved with,
Deacon says. The thing that super
appeals to me is meeting them.
Thats how the business has devel-
tele and extend my brands reach.
Shaun Leane: I like the concept of Suite 1521,
as it brings the designer directly to the client.
It is an opportunity for a designer like myself
to be able to share my collection concepts and
craft with the clients, as well as allowing me to
discuss the possibilities of creating a bespoke
piece of jewelry for the individual.
Shane Gabier, Creatures of the Wind:
Chris [Peters] and I think that its important
to be able to meet the clients directly, and in
WWD FRIDAY, JULY 26, 2013 9
WWD.COM
oped for us in Europe and in Asia private clients. Enter Tisch.
and russia. It works really well. She had long been fashion-ob-
Creatures of the Wind will sessed, a condition nurtured on
have its first event for fall. We European vacations with her par-
often get asked why specific ents as a girl. At one point, her
styles arent in stores, if other mother suggested a job in an in-
colors are available, etc., says dustry where maybe you can buy
Shane Gabier, who designs the the clothes versus working in the
line with Chris peters. So its clothing industry. Tisch worked
great for people to have the in the insurance field, and moved
chance to really get their hands on to private banking.
on the pieces that may not be Ive always loved finding the
available otherwise. new designers and brands, says
Suite 1521 will host collections Tisch, loved when someone
in trunk-show-style shopping would stop me on the street
events, typically two days each, Where did you get that? I love
with the designer in attendance. what youre wearing. At Tuleh,
These events will occur on the Tisch and other private clients
wholesale buying schedule, with would come in, try this or that,
designers presenting their collec- Bradley would give his opinion,
tions soon after the runway or re- and suddenly it was a social event.
sort pre-fall showings. members post-Tuleh, the two women
will access the calendar and reg- kept in touch. What we kept
ister via a Web site that goes live coming back to was that we
late next month; there will be no missed that atmosphere at
e-commerce element. Sessions Tuleh, Tisch says. At the same
will run for three hours, with time, they would lament the
limited openings. Some early lack of specialness they found in
events include rodarte, Jonathan stores, other than at Colette or
Saunders, Wes Gordon and Edie places like that, says Tisch. Id
parker. Shipments will be made come back here and say, Kim,
on the traditional retail schedule. theres got to be a better way!
returns are allowed, but not Suite 1521 is set to open with
with the latitude given by top tra- a membership roster of 300 com-
ditional retailers. You cant keep prised of friends and word-of-
it in your house for a month, mouth recruits. Tisch and Kassel
says Kassel. Youre getting a want to expand their own list via a
special privilege here that youre relationship with a strategic part-
not getting at Neiman marcus. ner who has access to such a cli-
You have to make a decision ent base. our target is someone
about whether you want to give it who doesnt want to walk into a
back. rather than full refunds, cocktail party and see [someone
customers will re-
ceive Suite 1521
else] in the same
dress that shes just
points to be used
toward future pur-
We were paid $4,000 for, says
Tisch. Somebody
chases, whether at
upcoming events thinking that whos fairly social
and goes to a lot of
or from The
Closet, where re- it should feel things.
Suite 1521 will
turned merchan- be open monday
dise will reside.
There will also
very intimate through friday with
no planned weekend
be an incentive
program based on and private hours, though flex-
ibility is essential to
dollars spent.
Kassel and and special, the focus on custom-
er service. Similarly,
Tisch met July and August
through fashion.
Kassel worked
like you should be dead
months for us, ac-
in high-profile
public relations
needed a key cording to Kassel, for
two reasons: because
(Calvin Klein,
Jeffrey) until its to get in. by early July, the re-
sort wholesale sea-
irritations won son is pretty much
out and she quit. Lizzie Tisch over, and because a
Eventually bored good percentage of
and having become friendly their initial clientele will be leave
with Tulehs Josh patner and town for the summer You know,
Bryan Bradley through Jeffrey, school vacation.
she called and said, Ill do any- Yet this is no wealthy womens
thing. Two days a week led to vanity project. Kassel, Tisch and
seven years. their tight staff (four in total) will
The trek from the Upper spend their summers receiving,
East Side to Tulehs studio on packaging and sending the merch
Chrystie Street was definitely off to clients, while also staffing
another world, one in which The Closet. Theres something
Kassel learned the nitty-gritty of else they expect to do right away:
the fashion business outside the make money. Were self-funded,
realm of p.r. She loved that the but we had to go through a lot
collection was being designed of approval before either of us
right behind me; you could see could take that money and put
every aspect of it, and that she it into something, Kassel says,
worked within a fun, fancy-chic noting that their business plan
circle including Amanda Brooks forecasts profitability by the end
and Lillian von Stauffenberg. of year one. Not fabulously prof-
Among the tasks she embraced: itable, but profitable.
the sort of setting that Studio 1521 will
provide, we think itll be a fantastic oppor-
tunity for us to really talk about the collec-
tion with the people who are wearing it.
Richard Nicoll: Through the Suite 1521
concept, Lizzie and Kim provide the op-
portunity for us to present the collection
in all its entirety in a retail environment,
allowing it to remain unconfined by a
stores edit. Combining this with the
chance to have direct customer interac-
tion is priceless.
10 WWD FRIDAY, JULY 26, 2013
The Food Channel List Makers
FOR MORE THAN 40
years, Joe Eck and Wayne
Winterrowd had what many
would consider an ideal life.
They met in 1969, shared an
apartment formerly the
ballroom and dining room in
an old mansion on Beacon
Street in Boston where
they had an indoor garden,
replete with a weeping
willow, a cus tree and
azaleas, along with a group
of chickens who roamed
freely around the ballroom
oors. Winterrowd, who was
originally from Louisiana,
was teaching Jacobean
literature at Tufts then; he
got a Fulbright, and the two
went to Denmark together.
On their return, partly
inspired by the back-to-the-
land movement of the late
Sixties and early Seventies,
they rented a farmhouse in
Pepperell, Mass., then moved
to Readsboro, Vt., buying a 28-
acre property that they called
North Hill. There they built a
house and gradually created
a world-class garden, initially
supporting themselves by
teaching French, English and
Latin in local elementary
and high schools. Their
garden became known for its
Japanese dogwoods, locust
trees, magnolias, daffodils
and Himalayan blue poppies.
They also raised cows, pigs
and chickens.
Winterrowd and Eck
began to write articles, then
books, about gardening;
designed gardens for clients
throughout the U.S. and
Canada, and lectured on
gardens. They adopted a son,
Fotios Bouzikos, who is now
senior designer for Ralph
Laurens womens Black
Label Denim line. They were
joined in a civil union in 2000
and married in 2009. But in
2010, while the pair were
working on their new book,
To Eat: A Country Life
(Farrar, Straus & Giroux)
illustrated by Bobbi Angell,
with recipes by Beatrice Tosti
di Valminuta Winterrowd
became ill and suddenly died
at the age of 68.
Eck, now 67, had to nish
the book on his own, and says
he is still in deep mourning
for his husband. He adds,
The hardest thing in the last
two years is that my life has
devolved into labor. I have
books I have to write. I have
some clients I must nish
gardens for. I have my son,
whom I deeply, profoundly
love. But the exuberance of
our 42 years is gone. But it
will happen to every single
one of us it is part of what it
is to be human.
The next of Ecks books
will focus on the couples
collections, which include
Georgian silver and Roman
glass. The one after that will
be on their rather unorthodox
sex life as a couple, which,
Eck says, broke every
bourgeois taboo.
We met in a gay bar
in Boston, Eck, who is
originally from New Jersey,
recalls. It was Friday night,
and it was very crowded.
We couldnt move. I was
with an old friend. I heard
a melliuous Southern
voice right behind me. Eck
stopped the owner of the
voice; they began to talk and
walked around the Boston
Common for hours until the
last subway had gone. They
remained together for the
rest of their lives. Every
night, for all their decades
together, Winterrowd would
make dinner. It was our
communion, Eck says.
More important than
sex, more important than
anything else.
The new book focuses on
the edible, with chapters
on what they grew in their
kitchen garden: onions,
leeks, chicory, winter herbs,
radishes and Brussels
sprouts, and chapters on
animals: pigs, veal calves and
old hens. Old hens? It turns
out that they still are capable
of laying eggs, and that theyre
also great for chicken stock. AUBREY PLAZA and Rachel Bilson play
We have always been sisters in the new period comedy
prey to enthusiasms, they The To Do List, but thankfully
write. Never content with left their Nineties-era skorts
a little of anything, we have and shoulder pads at home
grown hundreds of species for the lms Tuesday night
of primulas, antique roses premiere at the Regency
by the dozens, magnolias Bruin Theater in Westwood,
by the score. So too with Calif. Although the actresses
vegetables. were rushed into the theater
The chapter on asparagus before they could nish their
talks about Eck and interviews, they did pose
Winterrowds initial failures for the cameras, Plaza
with the plant because they sporting a Calvin Klein
didnt follow the directions Collection frock and
Thalassa Cruso gives in her Bilson in Oscar de la
1975 book Making Vegetables Renta. When asked if
Grow their vegetable she was like her mean Rachel
bible which involve digging girl character when Bilson in
a trench 12 inches deep in she was in high school, Oscar de la
the fall, putting in six inches Renta.
of manure or compost and
leaving it there over the
winter. After three years,
the duo had to scrap their
original asparagus bed and
dig a new, correctly done one.
They also let us know that
rhubarb became popular only
during the Victorian period,
partly because it was so easy
to force. The chapter on wild
salads mentions a favorite
ingredient, Confederate
Violet, a ower named after
the faded color of worn
Confederate uniforms. On
tomatoes, they write, There Aubrey Plaza
are so many. But let us close in Calvin Klein
with one, Purple Calabash. Collection.
It is our most precious.
This tomato is so beautiful.
Warted, folded, ribbed, wholly
odd. And delicious. Like
nothing anyone might buy at
Tennessee Thomas, Alexa
a Shaws or a Gristedes. But
Chung and Sarah Sophie
isnt that what growing real
Flicker.
food is all about?
LORNA KOSKI
eye
Midcentury Mad
JUST A FEW hours after The Duchess
of Cambridges mother, and new
grandmum to Prince George Alexander
Louis of Cambridge, Carole Middleton,
donned a pebble-blue tea dress
from Orla Kiely to meet her royal
grandson at St. Marys hospital in
London on Tuesday, the Irish-born,
London-based designer was at her
SoHo boutique toasting her new
collaboration with Target.
Kiely, a veteran of
the big-box team-up (she FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE
launched her home line
for the Minneapolis- WWD.com/eye. for introducing her to
based retailer in 2009),
designed a capsule of
techie accessories done in boldly
hued, graphic-mod patterns. Im a
bit of a mad, midcentury fan, Kiely
said of the collection, which puts a
retro spin on iPhone and iPad cases.
I love textiles from the Fifties,
Sixties and Seventies when they
were much more bold about things.
Alexa Chung and Tennessee Thomas
took turns behind the DJ booth
picking era-appropriate tunes like
Bruce Channels Hey Baby.
PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER
We all love that quite prim, very
Joe Eck in British, Sixties sensibility, said
his sons Chung, who arrived fashionably
apartment in late. I think theres a romanticism
New York. around other decades, especially
at the moment when in the modern
Bilson replied, No, I was nice.
Small and nice.
Bilsons Hart of Dixie costar
Scott Porter, who plays Plazas
love interest, came dressed
in a new Ted Baker suit but
recalled his look in the
movie. I was thrilled that
I had a wig in the movie
because I was so frightened
of all these great comedic
actors and the wig just
helped me out, you
know? I was talking to
Bill Hader, and he goes,
That was the rule on
Saturday Night Live,
just let the wig do all
the work.
Of the lms
fantasy rock video
sequence, he said,
Who doesnt want
to feel like theyre
PHOTOS BY ALEX J. BERLINER/ABIMAGES/COURTESY OF CBS FILMS
in an early-Nineties
rock video? I had Aubrey
doing the step, touch,
step, touch move, like they
always had one girl in those
videos who was enamored
with the lead singer.
The lm was penned by
its director, Maggie Carey, who
used some very personal
details in the script, admitting
that a scene involving one
particular sex act had
been, inspired by my own
experience in high school.
ARIEL SAYRE
PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER
world, things are quite fast and
furious and quite in your face and
people are wearing hardly any
clothes. Thats a cool aesthetic, but
on the ip side, theres women who
want to appear demure still.
Partygoers, who included Karen
Elson and Becka Diamond, scooped
up Fifties-suburbia style bites
such as tater-tot skewers doused
in an oven-roasted tomato pure (a
ketchup stand-in). Sarah
Sophie Flicker thanked
her husband, Jesse Peretz,
Kielys retro designs
after coming home from
a business trip in London about
ve years ago with an Orla Kiely
dress in tow.
The funny thing is my
husband is not into fashion at all
and he feels like he discovered
Orla Kiely, Flicker said.
Diamond, for one, was pumped
to have another thing to pick up at
the fast-fashion store. I loooove
Target or Targ! she said. I
love the stockings section, I stock
up there on all sorts of shnets
and things because when you
buy Wolford and it rips after the
second time, youre like, Damn,
there goes a hundred bucks.
CHLOE SORVINO
 WWD FRIDAY, JULY 26, 2013 11
WWD.COM

FASHION SCOOPS Trump Does Leather Handbags

FLESH PLAYER: The new Miley Cyrus is not
afraid to bare some esh a point she
is driving home with Marc Jacobs and
Robert Duffy. Cyrus is the latest celebrity
to take off her kit for the designer and
his business partner and their ongoing
charity T-shirt campaign to, as the slogan
puts it, Protect the Skin Youre In.
Cyrus has been a friend of mine for
a while and I think shes beautiful, said
Duffy. She is a lot of fun to be with.
She is talented in many mediums
from music to lm, he added. She
really has a very good, solid head on her
shoulders. I adore her. Starting today,
the Ts are available at nine Marc Jacobs
boutiques, including collection units in
San Francisco, Los Angeles and Chicago,
and Marc by Marc Jacobs stores in
New York, Boston and Savannah, Ga.
European Marc Jacobs boutiques will
start selling these next month. Sales of
FOR MORE
SCOOPS, SEE
WWD.com
The Miley Cyrus
Protect the Skin
Youre In T.
the $35 T-Shirts featuring Cyrus benet
the NYU Cancer Institute and NYU
Langone Medical Center.
As for Cyrus, she is in good company.
Celebrities featured on the T-Shirts in
the past include Victoria Beckham, Naomi
Campbell, Dita Von Teese, Rufus Wainwright,
and Eric Cartman, Randy Marsh and
arcades intersecting in an octagon,
topped by a glass dome. The Galleria
connects two iconic Milan sites, the
cathedral and the La Scala theater.
Later phases to open will include
a restaurant on the mezzanine, the
restoration of the inner courtyard and
the conversion of the upper oors as
exhibition spaces for the Fondazione
Prada and headquarters of the group.
Separately, Prada is also investing
in an OMA/Rem Koolhaas project, the
transformation of an early-20th-century
industrial site in Largo Isarco in Milan
into a new art center complex for the
Fondazione Prada. The project involves
the revitalization of seven historic
industrial structures as well as the
construction of a seven-oor tower to
house spaces for the permanent collection
and a restaurant; an auditorium for events,
concerts and lm festivals and a separate
block called the Ideal Museum for
temporary exhibitions. LUISA ZARGANI
NATORI TALKS: Josie Natori, the vivacious
founder of Natori Co., will be the
keynote speaker at the second annual
Her Campus conference in New York,
which is scheduled for Saturday and
Sunday. More than 600 young women are
expected to attend the Collegiate Guide
to Life conference, which is presented
by Hercampus.com, the largest online
magazine for college women in the U.S.
The two-day conference will be held at
750 Third Avenue in Manhattan.
Jaqui Lividini, chief executive ofcer
and founder of Lividini & Co., will
conduct a one-on-one interview with
Natori at the event in which Natori will
discuss how she started her innerwear
business, how important social media
is today and the importance of creating
great relationships throughout a career.
KARYN MONGET
By DAVID MOIN
and Neiman Marcus would be possibili-
ties. Its very important that we dont
grow distribution for the sake of distri-
IVANKA TRUMP is launching leather bution, Trump said. We will only go
handbags and giving Bloomingdales a into stores where the customer base is
jump on the competition with a month- appropriate for the brand and where
long exclusive. there is the presentation to support it.
The collection, called Ivanka, is an Bloomingdales has been an unbeliev-
extension of Trumps core handbag line, able retail partner. We worked with
and the latest addition to her fast- grow- them to create a collection that will be
ing fashion business, estimated by sourc- well positioned for their customer and
es at more than $325 million at wholesale. complementary with my shoe line.
Trump already sells apparel, outerwear, She said the collection is all leather,
fragrance, footwear and accessories, and priced from $225 to $395, in the same
and is launching home echelon as Kate Spade,
products and sunglass- Michael Kors and
es next year. Coach. Aesthetically,
My main focus is it has a unique point of
solidifying all the cat- view, but its still con-
egories I have already sistent with my brand,
launched, but there said Trump. Theres a
are a few categories tremendous amount of
Im thinking about po- architectural inspira-
tentially bringing into A bag from the new collection. tion and hexagon ele-
the mix, only if its the ments that evoke my
right opportunity with the right part- jewelry. I tend to like more rigid shapes as
ner, Trump told WWD. Outside of fra- opposed to less structure. She also cited
grance, I havent done anything in beauty jewel tones, exotic stingray, snake and alli-
yet. Watches and childrens wear would gator prints and metallics as key elements.
also be logical extensions to her brand, My focus is growing my wholesale
she added. Mondani Handbags and footprint domestically, independent free-
Accessories is licensed to produce Ivanka. standing stores and e-commerce, Trump
Weve had tremendous success with said. Within the next six months, well
my original collection in The Bay, Lord be launching aninnovative e-commerce
& Taylor, Nordstrom and Macys, which site. It will be a major driver for the main
has a slightly lower price point than brand and a point of differentiation. A lot
the Ivanka line, which she said gives us of brands think of [e-commerce] as an af-
the ability to expand to Bloomingdales terthought. I really want e-commerce to
and later open up our distribution. be a agship. I have been very strong on
Bloomingdales will launch the col- social media. It allows me to communicate
lection Aug. 12 before other stores get in a very honest and direct way, Trump
on board four weeks later. Trump de- said, citing Twitter, where she said she has
clined to specify which other retailers more than two million followers, as well as
she expects to carry the line, but Saks Pinterest, Facebook and Instagram.

Butters Stotch of South Park.
MARC KARIMZADEH
BEVERLY HILLS HIGH: Lorena Sarbu presented
her resort 2014 collection at her Beverly
Hills home on Wednesday for celebrity
fans Rhona Mitra, Radha Mitchell, Minnie Driver,
Odessa Rae, Cara Santana and Cynthia Kirchner.
small space
ART LOVE: Its no secret Lisa Perry has
an afnity for contemporary art,
particularly the pop variety. For her
fourth artist-inspired, limited-edition
collection, the designer turned to Robert
Indiana, who is perhaps best known for
his graphic Love image. That iconic

Actors Danny Huston and Topher Grace were
also in the mix at the luncheon, cohosted
by stylist Deborah Waknin. I wanted the
show to reect my style, so what better
way than at home? I just hope the models
dont have trouble with the cobblestones,
said the designer, who held
certain pieces from the outdoor
patio presentation for her guests
to wear. Its very elegant, said
Mitra of her black tea-length
dress. Kirchner, meanwhile,
already had her eye on a
fuchsia gown for an event
next week in the Hamptons,
and stylist Jessica Paster
Big
piece, Perry said, has made me happy
since I rst saw it when I was a little
girl. I admire the brilliance of an artist
that can create something that becomes
iconic and recognizable for the ages.
It, along with other Indiana paintings
such as Decade Autoportrait
and Numbers, are worked into
apparel pieces. The collection
will launch in early September
at Perrys store on Madison
Avenue as well as LisaPerry.
com, with sales benetting
The Whitney Museum of
American Art. M.K.

immediately pulled a few
gowns for Christina Applegate.
As a parting gift, each guest
took home a metal and
leather belt used in the
show. MARCY MEDINA
PRADAS GALLERY: With the
new Prada Galleria,
the Italian luxury fashion A dress from Lisa Perrys
company plans to seriously new collection with
expand its presence in
Milans Galleria Vittorio
artist Robert Indiana.
Emanuele II, home to its rst store,
opened in 1913. To mark this centennial,
the new venue will have a exible
layout and new sales space, house the
Fondazione Prada, areas for events and
the groups headquarters. Last week,
Prada unveiled the rst phase of this
project, which includes the renovation
of an entire quadrant of the Galleria
near the existing Prada store and the
new mens boutique on the ground oor.
The structure of the 19th-century
Galleria consists of two glass-vaulted
Business
MIU MIUS WOMENS TALES: Miu
Miu is bringing its feminine
perspective back to the
Venice Film Festival, which
this year runs from Aug. 28
through Sept. 7.
In collaboration with
independent lm show
Venice Days, the fashion
label is presenting the fth
and sixth installments of its
Womens Tales, a collection
of short lms by international WWD Marketplace is the premier destination
female directors. The Door by Ava
DuVernay, and Le Donne della Vucciria for the industrys classified and career listings.
by Hiam Abbass, will premiere on Aug. 29,
with both directors in attendance. Special
discussion panels related to the lms
and the role of women in cinema are on
the agenda later that week.
Last year, directors Zoe Cassavetes,
800.423.3314
wwd.com/marketplace
Lucrecia Martel, Giada Colagrande and Massy
Tadjedin participated in the Womens
Tales, with various short movies that
played with fashion to express broader
concepts. CYNTHIA MARTENS
12 WWD FRIDAY, JULY 26, 2013
WWD.COM

Renery29 Grows Up
By RACHEL STRUGATZ
NEW YORK Renery29 is ready to make
the leap from fashion Web site to lifestyle
player and is looking to dene how the
next generation of media companies operate.
Once a site that published just a sin-
gle post per week, Renery29 now gar-
ners 90 million page views per month
and will see its rst overhaul since its
launch in 2005 on Monday.
The look, which includes an updated
logo and a sleek, modern interface that
tracks how articles are trending on social
networks, is part of the companys mis-
sion to become a 24/7 technology life-
style platform, according to cofounders
Philippe von Borries and Justin Stefano.
Its denitely not a magazine, said
Stefano. Were a media destination, its
not about still or ash content, its not
just at. The advertising side has been
a unique point of differentiation for us.
Our ads are real content that people are
viewing the same they would view a com-
mercial if they were watching Bravo.
The site has seen 100 percent growth
year-over-year, receives 5.5 million
unique visitors per month (this is closer
to eight to nine million when you take
into account its followers on social net-
works) and has 1.5 million e-mail sub-
scribers. The site features about 80
posts per day, and in addition to a new
headquarters in New York City, main-
tains ofces in Los Angeles, Chicago, San
Francisco, Washington and London.
Renery29 is on track to hit $25 mil-
lion in ad revenue this year. In 2011, the
site grossed $7.7 million in ad revenue,
and last year this nearly doubled to $14.6
million. Neiman Marcus has signed on as
a core advertiser for the relaunch, and
Converse, H&M, Samsung and Essie are
continuing to advertise.
An existing shop section pro-
jected to generate $2 million in sales in
2013 will be expanded dramatically
and relaunched in late August. Curated
by Renery29 editors, the e-commerce
section will feature 40,000 stockkeeping
units that direct users to afliate Web
sites for an immediate point of purchase.
Von Borries and Stefano expect total rev-
enues to double next year. They also see
the collection of data Renery29 has ac-
cess to as a future revenue opportunity.
Up until two years ago, our competi-
tive set would have been squarely in the
traditional media world with magazine
titles, but as we embrace product and
technology, this has expanded to include,
yes, traditional media companies but
also commerce companies like Amazon
and eBay to community platforms like
Polyvore, von Borries said. Its a reec-
tion of our own journey and evolving into
a technology company. Our competitive
set has greatly evolved.
The two are xated on the notion of
product discovery and exposing users to
a range of brands and then getting them to
check out whether its at Target, Rag &
Bone or Brooklyn-based boutique Catbird.
They say that they in no way aim to com-
pete with these companies. A mock-up of Renery29s new homepage.
Once someone is in an article [on the
site, the question is], how do you get them building brand integrated experiences,
to related articles? Stefano said point- Stefano said, adding that at Renery29,
ing out that a Renery29 reader doesnt ads are viewed as product and are con-
even leave the current page theyre on tinually integrated them into the con-
when they click on another article. It tent experience.
brings the news feed to the article page. A recent example: Renery29s Beach
Von Borries added, Were obsessed House in Montauk, a four-weekend pro-
with the forward momentum of the page. gram sponsored by Sunglass Hut, Malibu
We take the back button away from the Island Spiced Rum and Olay Fresh
user experience. [Here] youre relent- Effects. A group of tastemakers have been
lessly moving forward. invited to the house to hang out, host par-
Users are given recommendations of ties and then chronicle this on Instagram.
similar stories they might like, powered Its about native advertising and
by Gravity, a technology that uses an al- aligning our advertising goals with a us-
gorithm to get know a reader. ers goals, Stefano said. Banners are a
We have a different approach to dying dinosaur.

Zara Headed to Miami Under Armour Raises Outlook

By SHARON EDELSON
LINCOLN ROAD MALL in
Miami Beach, a pedestrian-only
promenade between Alton Road
and Washington Avenue, attracts
13 million visitors annually with
retailers such as Adidas Y-3,
AllSaints Spitalelds, Scotch &
Soda, John Varvatos, Madewell
and Anthropologie.
Spanish retailer Zara will
join the retail roster of Lincoln
Road with a 24,000-square-foot
agship on two levels opening
in the winter of 2013.
A registered Miami Beach
landmark, 420 Lincoln Road was
originally designed by archi-
tect Albert Anis at the site of the
Lincoln Road Hotel. The Zara
agship will integrate the proper-
tys Art Deco design elements and
two-story rounded glass facade.
With 1,763 stores worldwide,
Zara continues to open more units,
despite the fact that its sales, like
those of other fast-fashion compa-
nies, have been slowing. Inditex,
Zaras parent, said last month that
the second quarter started off at
a faster pace, with sales between
May 1 and June 7 increasing 8 per-
cent in local currencies.
Still, the figures represent a
deceleration. Inditex recorded 16
percent revenue growth in the year
ended Jan. 31 and a 12 percent
gain in local currencies between
Feb. 1 and March 11 of this year.
The Lincoln Road agship will
offer mens, womens and chil-
drens apparel and accessories.
SHARES OF Under Armour
Inc. shot up 12.3 percent
Thursday as second-quarter
prots more than doubled.
The Baltimore-based
athletic rm also raised its
outlook for the full year.
Revenues are now expect-
ed to climb to $2.23 billion
and $2.25 billion this year,
up from the $2.21 billion to
$2.23 billion previously fore-
cast. Wall Street was already
looking for $2.25 billion, but
analysts might now nudge up
their own projections.
Shares of Under Armour
closed up $7.61 at $69.44
the stocks best close ever.
Kevin Plank, chairman and
chief executive ofcer, told an-
alysts on a conference call that
the brand still has signicant
runway in North America
and is also expanding abroad.
Plank attributed the brands
strength in North America to
how the equity we have built
with consumers on the playing
eld enables us to be a pre-
mium brand, not just with our
most technical innovations, but
in our core business as well.
We look at our average selling
price as a key metric of our
ability to innovate.
Under Armour has been
at the forefront of incorpo-
rating technology into its
fashions and has joined the
wearable technology revolu-
tion, recently introducing the
Armour39 performance moni-
tor for athletes.
The company is also expand-
ing overseas, for instance, look-
ing to add three more stores in
China, bringing its total to eight
by the end of the year.
For the second quarter
ended June 30, income rose
to $17.6 million, or 16 cents a
diluted share, compared with
$6.7 million, or 6 cents a diluted
share, a year earlier. Prots per
share came in 2 cents ahead of
the 14 cents analysts projected.
Revenues for the quarter
expanded 23 percent to $454.5
million from $369.5 million.
Apparel revenues rose 23
percent to $310 million while
footwear revenues increased
21 percent to $82 million.
EVAN CLARK AND
ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD

MEMO PAD fashionista responded in the face

TEMPLE OF FASHION: If fashion
is akin to religion, then Karl
Lagerfeld forever in a starched
white collar could be its
pope. Thats the premise of a
four-hour documentary slated
to air Sept. 7 on Vox, part of
the RTL Group, in Germany.
The brainchild of Cologne-
based television journalist
Martina Neuen, it likens fashion
magazines to the Bible, models
to angels and consumers to
followers. Its a bit tongue-in-
cheek, allowed Neuen, who
notes that fashion involves
powerful symbols, a tight-knit
community, age-old rituals
and a system of beliefs
mechanism that can drive
the industry as surely as they
compel churchgoers.
It cannot offer you
redemption or anything
eternal, she confessed.
Indeed, as Lagerfeld frequently
says, collections only last six
months, maximum.
To test her theory, Neuen
enlisted German neurologist
Christian Elger to perform an
experiment to see how the brains
of a Catholic priest and a devoted
of their respective religions.
The emotional reactions are the
same, she said.
Lagerfeld afforded Neuen
access to his daily routine of
fashion shows and photography
over 16 months, even opening
up his private photo archive
and sharing information about
his life and career trajectory,
from the son of a milk producer
in northern Germany to the
pinnacle of French fashion
as the couturier of Chanel,
Arp; publisher Gerhard Steidl,
The promotional poster for a four-hour
documentary about Karl Lagerfeld.
in addition to being the fur
and ready-to-wear designer
at Fendi and the head of his
A look at
Proenza
signature brand, which is Schoulers
currently in expansion mode. fall
(Indeed, Lagerfeld is to attend campaign.
an advance screening in early
September in Munich, where he
is opening a signature boutique.)
Amidst Lagerfelds amusing
narration and scenes of him
at work, Neuen blends in
interviews with models Claudia
Schiffer, Linda Evangelista and
Ins de la Fressange; editors
Suzy Menkes and Christiane
and celebrities Diane Kruger,
Sarah Jessica Parker and Milla
Jovovich. The crew raveled
with Lagerfeld to New York,
Singapore, London, Paris, Even though he may not be AIR CHECK: For their fall advertising
Hamburg and Florida, the latter remembered for his popularity, campaign, Proenza Schouler
to lm client Patricia Rossignol I thought he was elegant. And designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro
introduce her Chanel couture Pope John XXIII was the most Hernandez wanted to explore the
gown at a charity function. charismatic; you can keep all idea of air, using atmosphere and
Vox has also given the four- the others, he said. light to capture a mood. Working
hour treatment to Abba, and To be sure, Neuen was a with David Sims, they worked
usually attracts well more than a convert to Lagerfeld practically with model Sasha Pivovarova for
million viewers to the program. since their rst encounter the atmospheric images, which
In the documentary, back in 1999. Hes the most will break in September issues
Lagerfeld refers to himself a impressive person Ive ever of such magazines as Vogue, W,
fashion missionary and met, she marveled. Hes a Harpers Bazaar and, in Europe,
voices his opinion on fashion true individual, and theres a biannual titles like Purple, Pop,
popes. The only pope I lightness of being around him. Love, Self Service and 032c.
thought was chic was Pius XII. MILES SOCHA MARC KARIMZADEH