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    101 Best-Ever Workshop Projects PDF

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    mariangelis rondon

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    © All Rights Reserved
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    of 118
    thrifty hold- ace knobs Tum to the lathe for savings. You can sink 2 lot of money into knobs with threaded studs, such as those used on the router-table fence shown above, “Why not make them?” we asked our- selves the other day when we needed four knobs for a projec. To make your own knobs, start by mounting a piece of oak to an auxiliary faceplate as shown below. Then, using a skew ot small gouge, turn the knob to shape and sand smooth. Nex, drill a %e" bole with Forsiner bit, and epoxy a 14" hexhead bolt into the hole. Before epoxying, check that the bolt fits the mating T-nut and thatthe exposed thread willbe long enough to go through the sock and into the T-nut. Our knobs measured 2" in diameter ers gutensowen —expLopeD VIEW Stfaceplats 1%] waste / bolt Ye" hole * deep, \ Centorod in Knob stock ee asrpevel—”—_/ vrouhovers / atime adpesie Croft Oss Nate Kame Frotograoh: Bob Galmer hoseston amie Downing Beter Homes and Gardens* Fre a SC et ar JM a Frosh MARIE Coven conn atin J HATEY thee A RS ‘org ie 9 apn Gea a reco mT Nsom ARON BS So tent 238170 87) ‘oss agen De to ‘Sep negro YE ST ‘Sern ae SAM ELA Same heme aoc cron Com nc MAN Se aa ee SE eres ec MRA (Sop MEME stoSTON het AMA JME | Mersin cure vont Frc se ae tes hs aR SEE Mr an Sgomerca neues Arsene eters boar ht 101 Workshop Projects 2002 saw-blade selector Slotted holder keeps your blades in sight and ready. ‘Wall-mount this handy holder near the stationary saws in your shop, or, if you Tike, place it on a convenient benchtop, ‘You'll find it the ideal storage project for ‘organizing an assortment of saw blades and a dado-blade set, To make the notches, cu the side pieces to shape, and mark the notch locations Then, moant a VA" dado blade to your ‘ablesaw, tilt she blade 45° trom ce ‘and using your miter gauge with an attached auxiliary wood fence for support, make the cuts ® Projet Dain: James R. Downing Prego im. Hops #10210 FH. wood screw for maunting fo Wall plywood back lywood sides EXPLODED 101 Workshop Projects 2002 stay-put try these these easy-to- make pads, you'll want to crank out a pair for every pipe clamp you own. ‘Trying to hold a serapwood pad in place while sougeing up a pipe clamp can ‘prove next to impossible, And, the small base on mos pipe clamps also makes them prone to tipping over. Our esy-to- rake pipe-clamp pads solve both of these annyoing problems. The pads shown here fit a Pony-brand 2 pipe clamp, but you ean adapt the design to fit other brands and sizes. Fora 1A" pipe clamp, bore a4" hoe. The siz, shape, and location ofthe retainer notch also may vay. ‘To start, cut a %n324" piece of ply ‘wood, thea ly out the shape and hole locations fr four pads, where dimen- sioned onthe pater below right. Cu the pads to shape, and then drill the holes ‘where marked. Sand or rout a slight round.overon all the edges. Cut the hardboard spacers and retainers to size attach them with screws as shown, and you're al sto clamp down on your ext project ® PAD PATTERN Note: Enirge 200% to make fullsize pattern. pipe clamp pads Forget scrapwood. Once you vans 194 544" shank hole, countersunk ardboard spacer wit | “ASS i Vox %' note, comored wood screws vex tax te — haraboata Pipe-ciamp retainer Locate bottom otharsbeard ‘Spacer here, 94 shank hole 101 Workshop Projects 2002 drill-p dust colle Airborne debris doesn’t stand a chance with this device. ‘Wood chips and sawdust don't stay around long when you hook up this clamp-down collector to your or dustcollection system, You'll ser and cut down cleanup time, 100. Exploded View and Pars View drawings to construct the collector from 4" plywood and 3" stock. Cut or sand 10° bevels aeross the top and sides of the %-tick back, where shown below. To reduce sawdust buildup a table level, sand a bevel across the fromt edge of the bottom piece ® Project Design: James A. Dotining Photograph: Hetherington Photography Metratene: Kim owning Cut hole in cantor ‘oft vacuum hose, ‘Sandia bovel across the bottom front edge EXPLODED VIEW Ty aw {i} soe [it | view = ale ‘kis Back (@ needoo) 7 = ow ay PARTS VIEW worm weodontine.com 7 | adjustable angle jig Make this simple tool for your drill-press table and you'll never have to eyeball the angle of a hole again. Build the jig as shown and dimensioned ‘on the drawings. The base (A) must be Tonger than your drill-press table so the friction lid supports (one at each end of the jig) clear the table ends. Use a piano hinge o secure the adjustable support (B) to the plywood baso (A). A pair of fric- tion ld suppor allow you to angle the | suppor and lock it securely in position ‘The rest block (C) allows you to postion the support parallel tothe dil-pres table, To use the jg, loosen both wing nuts so the support can swivel freely. Then, using aT-bevel or an adjustable triangle to set ‘the required angle ofthe suppor to the dil bit. Tighten the wing nuts to secure the support i place. Clamp the jg to ‘your dillpress table. Drill atest hole to verify the angle. Once verified, dil the } angled holes in your workpiece. EXPLODED VIEW ® Base Notch out to accommodate > drllkpress column. i, Fiction id support ‘#10 fishing washer (one at ec end fF) ‘ we © veto wdoop = Roe 5 ® ; Rest block Rest block ens % vs" hole vs" deep — % . oe ax reator@ 1 *t@ aR Su vey Pie ee <= 1 entpuaistinge Long a UP POSTION aoa Sout s® angle for clearance, ‘Hox 194" hanger bot S Friction ld support (et both ends) ‘4 lat washer —* 8 101 Workshop Projets 2002 Solve your clamp-storage problems once and for all with one or more of our five custom holders. These clever wall-hung helpers not only keep all your clamps at arm's reach, they also look great doing it. 4. Spring-clamp holder 2.Bar-clamp rack 3.Locking C-clamp support 4.C-clamp rack 5.Handscrew- clamp organizer 401 Workshop Projects 2002 al Simple, sturdy, spring-clamp holder A backboard with protruding dowels does the {ob for supporting 4", 6, and 9"long spring lamps. I you've gota similar assortment of these clamps, the rack sbown here should suifice. If you've got quite a collection, extend the board or make two or more hold- ors as needed, ‘We don’t recommend extending the dowels > Jonger than dimensioned onthe draing pea ‘edow: Extended to fr, they can get bumped and broken #10 thi (countersunk) washer #10x21 FH, wood scron_— 14 dowel 7 long: ‘Sand 4 rounc-over ‘on front end of dowels 5 ¥ dowel 7" ong 6" dowot ong Ye dowel 8"1ong~, 0 frish {Courtersunk) washer 10x20" EH. wood soraw 4" dowel 10° long ~ EXPLODED VIEW ‘SPRING-CLAMP HOLDER 2% dowel 10" ong - Note: At dowel oles cited at 5° anole wormwoodontine.com " ‘The slots in this quick-and-easy holder allow you to store your sliding-bead clamps in perfect order by simply resting the head on te horizontal support. Without the slots, you'd have to tighten the jaws to hold a clamp in place, and then loosen the jaws when you want 10 the clamp from the holder. To make the slots, cut the horizontal support to shape, rout * round-overs along the edges and comers, and mark the notches 1%" on center. Mount a ¥" dado blade to your tablesavy, and raise the blade 2” above the saw table. Mount a ‘wood extension to your miter gauge, and make the cuts where marked. As shown in the photo on page 10, we built and placed three racks end to end, You could also Iengthen the two parts, and cut the numberof slos needed to match your supply of clamps For Quick-Grip clamps, we found that am extended version (24" more from. front to back) of the rack used to support ‘ur stiding-head clamps works wonder- fully. The front support with its numerous slots holds the clamps upright and keeps thom from dinging the wall ‘4 shank hole, countersunk on backside u ing len ack edge of ont plece Is a i vee plot hole 1" sep. S140 0x2 FH, wood sorews 10 fish (countersunk) washer @ — #1020" FH, wood sorew Ss 4 EXPLODED VIEW round:overs routed betore cutting noches for siding-head clamps 7h for Quiek- Grip camps BAR-CLAMP RACK 12 101 Workshop Projecte 2002 EXPLODED VIEW isin screw SO W" round-over, AA stock is thick. clamping pressure applied sever- side edges fora good bond. we tum to our locking C-clamps, has a throat depth of over 15". To one n of locking C-clamps, we found this upport an organizer's dream, y 7x1" brads LOCKING C-CLAMP SUPPORT All-in-a-row C-clamp rack EXPLODED VIEW ‘iat shankhole ‘countersune _- enbaek ede wood scene H0 finis (countersura) ‘washer "shank hoe, ‘ountersunk ‘When the job calls for plenty of clamping pressure, no- 9” Pack side nonsense C-clamps provide the answer. To hang and ‘organize this type of clamp, build our four-piece wal ‘mounted hanger with ts notched front support. The notches allow you to hang the clamps on the rack = ‘without having to tighten them. > rounc-overs routed betoro outing 's" shank hol, countersunk #1012" FH. wood screw C-CLAMP RACK ‘wn oodoniine.com 13 “4 Handscrew-clamp hangout ml. I there was ever a simpler organizer for hand- screw clamps, we haven't seen it. Just cut the sup- port extension (A) to fit between the threaded rods of the clamp, chamfer the outside end of the sup- port, andl securely mount it to the backboard (B). We've found that about four clamps per support is full load. # Procuced by Malan Kemmat Project Seslgne! Richard Totestion, ‘im Boelng: James R. Downing FPratogragh: Wen Hopkins husvatons: Roxanne LaMoine EXPLODED VIEW #10x2" FH, __ Wet of clamp when hung on(@) Woaecots |] uncover Ee Me 0 tit (Gota ast 0x2 FH, wood 200 Se hole ‘10 finish (countersunk) washer Hox2ve FH, ~“ ‘wood serew_ 14" chamfer HANDSCREW-CLAMP ORGANIZER 401 Workshop Projecte 2002 2 = = double-duty clamp/lumber rack Great storage for both! Me washer Lumber inventories in the typical home ie ‘woodworking shop always vary. Ifyou swing rut Ait, stock up on material to make a big project qT elas es or lot of holiday gifts, the stacks of lum- au tern the floor can become a trafic haz- i ard, But ifyou build a permanent home Bras a 2 ie for those planks, the space sits idle when wah "bot ‘your wood supply dips. ss ede \ Here's one solution —foldable racks yee tax tet? 9) shat can keep pipe clamps tucked agninst ete eme an aia the wal, but dop for instant lumber stor- washer sot oe EXPLODED VIEW i ea sre With sides of 9 plywood and center a tao bocks of 2x materi these brackets are tee (8! washor sung and easy to make, The rar pivot 3 x point rotates around a ¥" bolt that’s oy placed in the wall stud o,f the wal ( studs are covered, in a 2x4 upright LUMBER / CLAMP RACK 1 hexhead bolt secured to the top and bottom of the wall, ‘The series of holes (on 6" centers) inthe stud oF upright lets you position the brackets right where you need them, and also provides a locking bot location when they're folded. ‘The clamp-holding feature requires just three ¥4¥" screw hooks threaded into each center block. They'll hold ¥" and 4 pipe clamps, as well as clamp styles with square or rectangular bas. Find all the needed hardware at your local hard- ware retailer or home center ® Susratons: Roxanne LeMoine Protraphe: Hetherington Pnotograpty PART VIEW wey a cs at 1 ale EE 18 scrolilsaw-b organizer with just a little effort and scrapwood you'll finally have the perfect place for those easly misplaced blades. Scrollsawers know that laying their hands fn the right blade can be tricky and time- consuming, especially if these tiny cuting tools get mixed together. This handy litle ‘organizer, designed to separate and store your blades comes from WOODo maga- Zine reader John M, Turok of Coon Rapid, Minnesota. To build it al you need ea smal bt of erap tock and af some /"-dameter (4° O.D) CPVC pipe Cree an caps. “ies For still more convenience, drill a few te cionn oa EXPLODED VIEW xtra oles in a ack tp to held scrolls tools, uch as Allen wrenches. Consider raat labeling the wes for easy reference. You sap oe I can hang the uit on ¢ wal or se ton a sexiteH fat surface near your srlsay. eam ood pg jn Pesca ngeponed ob we botom of CPVC hole Pon! ae Eh 3: stato: Jamie Dowrng Photoprnk: Win Hope Hf Le Ss Hols zea a eS lee E ertls se! snake, | ie ena hoe, Sean Sentesink 14.996" aac (pon) sad to hang arise r — ms 40x 1° Ft woodscew Wood sre Al stocks tick, ~ ‘ye noes vi ceop y eee fete RQ a ene sana ~ 1 pp FOXY Ft A i 16 101 Workshop Proects 2002 scrolisaw-blade drawer Moke this fabulous litle storage unit with common cove moldings available at any home center. ‘Teed of constantly fussing around with your scrollsaw blades? With this clever helper made Som common cove moldings, you can easily sexreve blades by reaching in witha finger and ‘sweeping the blades up along the curved edge of each hollow. uid the drawer, glue and clamp the cove gether. Then, screw the guides under- our bench or serollsaw stand, A string drawer from sliding out (00 far, and 2 brad nailed to one guide stops the drawer flush with the front ofthe bench.4® ject Desir: James Downing Protayaph Hopkins Associates “Satan: Roxanne LaMoine Fasten to underside of mounting ‘surface fo prevent crawer from EXPLODED VIEW pling cat eompetey workbench tool crib Keep power tools out of sight and out of the way, yet right at hand when you want them, with this easy-to-make workstation helper. END DETAIL To Sore his tools close at hand, reader Donovan Nagel of Madison, Wisconsin, designed and built this flip-down tol esi tat neatly secures in place beneath the benchtop. He stores power tol in it but you can ue it to suit your needs. ‘Simply build the crib as shown to fit between the legs of your ‘workbench, Fasten it in place with two 3" earage bolts. To put your erb into action, simply pull on the handle cutout and swing it out. A par of stops serewed tothe bottom of your ‘workbench help prevent the erib from eve falling {oo far forward or backward ‘Asan added feature, cut a hole in the back piece and installa ‘multiple outlet inthe ‘ool crn EXPLODED VIEW Note Al tock "plywood cept sopod Grounded mut-outet Power stip "hale for cord Wex te FH. "wood sereus| )\ Fs 46 from botiom ge + rabbat si deep Project Design: Donovan Nagel Tusttne: Kam owning 18 4101 Workshop Projects 2002 simple Hang up your saws safely and readily at hand. “Tat of amen your handsaws on peg peat books or worse, nails? If so, dress sp pom shop with tis sturdy maple sxesncie As dimensioned on the draw- ee me Sacd thick spacers between SS specs for regular handkaws and 4"- ‘Sack spacers for backsaws. Then, we ‘Gest Se tp between the ends and on top 6 Se seppont strip. For safety, hang all of soe sor with the teth facing the wall ® EXPLODED VIEW #8 x2" rH aan saw rack Se" shank noe, ‘countersunk 1 alascaneieot Pig al eo "slot for standard saws "pilot holes 11 deep 48%3" FH. wood screw ‘or cya screw 19 ready wrench rack Hang “ em up and keep ‘em handy! ‘We built our racks to handsomely hold a 16-pieee ("to 11) Stanley combination wrench set. As described Aelow and on the Notch detail, you may need to change a few dimensions for your particular set. Also, depending upon how much space you have for hanging your wrenches, you may want to plce the racks end o end, as shown ai righ, or hang ‘one rack under the other: ‘Note: In our research, we discovered that several manufacturers offer slightly diffrent wrench designs and sel ets containing varying ruam- bers of wrenches. For this reason, the size and numberof openings in the racks you make may need to difer from the ones shown here. ‘To build the racks, cu the front and back pieces to size, Measure the ‘is! shankchole, ‘with (A) of each wrench, and lay ont the corresponding dadoes to this Freee ‘with plus Yi" onthe front face of the front pieces. The width of the dadoes in the back piece wil be the width of the wrench (A) plus ie". ‘Now, measure the thickness (B) of each wrench, and eut the dadoes to this depth plus Ms" on the front face ofthe back pieces. Glue the pieces together, and then cutaway the waste (Shaded arcas) from the front pieces, where shown onthe drawings ® 140 me Waste s0x2u' FH, "wood serow et shank hole, < ‘countersunk NOTCH DETAIL Botiom rw for wrench szesa'io Wve ‘et shank hale, ‘countersunk "4 k 6 a10x20" FH, wood seron Projet Design: Che Alison Mosvations: Jami Downing Photograph: Hopkins Associates 20 top-notch chisel rack You won't need much time or materials to make our practical wall-mounted holder. Sometimes, the best ideas are also the simplest. For this handy lit- se shop project, we went to our scrap ple forthe material and snvested about a half hour of shop time. Now, we have a top-notch sack for our chisel s Note: All siock is brands of chisels. ® hick. Hole sizes may vary with different tao janie Cae wisak) vot ‘Use appropriate anchors if as #8 116" F.H. wood screw Se ere a % / 4 = “4? round.overs on ee hale countersunk 11 Sf emniaee onback a “osteo | ‘hg oxap oo fart one) sth ance cise” EXPLODED VIEW NOTCH Projet Desig: Reymond Fusco DETAIL, Phatoorat: Hopkins Aasoclates IMueratioe: Kim Dowming customized chisel rack Keep sharpened chisels safe and sound and easy to find when you need one. Note: We built our rack for a set of Stanley no. 60 chisels. The dimensions ‘might vary slightly for your chisel set. 4 ‘You can use this practical ack as a free- sanding unit, or remove the fect and fas- ten ito your workshop wall. Fither way, this project displays your chisels proudly and protects ther finely honed edges ® #82" FH. mood soon ‘ot shank hole, courtesan AP Mecca CHAMFER DETAIL Parts(© theugn@) Projet Design: Richard Beker, ton Lakes, Texas ‘ "verses: Jami Bowring Roxanne LeMoine ve Photograph daha Hetherington tottom side Genter hele insioe dado, Dia he’ pot ole Note: Qusise 58 deep into botom as 1 "7 sae eel Dielish A sox vr 1G) ana (6) neta ‘od eran 22 101 Workshop Preeets 2002 ; stay-put tool holde: Our Peg Board rack keeps ; tools ready for work. \Woal-mounted perforated hardboard pro- ses ideal tool storage—as long as you ss get the hanger “pegs” to stay put ‘Faced with that challenge, we designed soo! holders that attach firmly, but takes sly a minute oF two to move to a new, ‘sore convenient location on the perforat = hardboard. To make the pliers holder, mark slots sshere shown on the drawing at right, and ceil ¥4" holes at each end of the marked Yet hexhead Ys" hole MULTIPURPOSE HANGER ss. Dail slighty overlapping holes o saci ton 5 Soret erates esl i foe Nee earner and smioath up the sides of the slots with 4 ocknut — Zs 2 cise, Then, attach the wrought steel" ayaa roc — Hole eaaes desktop fasteners (Part no, 866826, avail- y rae or ve20 Vax 1 x 389" She fom WeotvotersS es ete $001645 9292) othe holder, as shown en “The 5/0 handscrew-clamp holder, A eel Aa shown at right top, mounts to the perfo- He notead seat emery ‘ted hardboard witha shor length of a foodie “x1” aluminam ba soc and 0 hex a fai se ne, head sheet-metal screws. For larger size ‘CLAMP HOLDER countersunk nandsrew clamps, make the wooden Block longer, nd wider. By ing varying Ings of lla a ‘rod, you ean create multi-purpose hangers. EXPLODED VIEWS: for bar lamps or individual tools, suchas the adjustable wrenches in the photo- raph, We dipped heal thread rd in a (vied rm beaks) plastic coating for protection frm sharp ie edges and to provide a no-slip surface "oles so keep tols in place. Wax FH, Wood serene Note: When you insall the mounting Sie" hexhoad See hipaa Daas he asain TV snug them up; over-tightening will easily . un at St i ald aaa cos Cece 1" deep centered inside Project Desir: James R. Downing ‘Sicuatons: Roxanne Leboine Photog: Bil Hopkins seenewoodontne.com 23 cutoff catchall This upright organizer gives you a place to put the stock that might otherwise be lost or tossed. Designed to hold cutoffs and other short pieces upright, this handy organizer allows you fo see ata glance what stock: Yyou have available. And its wall-hogging profile takes good advantage of limited shop space. texpe ee © wept Hates Key: P-pyonaB-bch Supple: #8: teeadwod sens, al, Ckar fh, Projet Dosign: cide Alcon Mutation: Jamle Dowring | Phetograprs Hopkins Associates EXPLODED VIEW RS Faker 24 401 Workshop Projects 2002 3-ring binder drilling jig Ready to store your WOOD: magazines n an easy-to-find location? Prepare them or a three-ring binder with this handy chilling jig. of Bet cost al uit, base (B), and cleats (C) to size. Clamp one cleat to each end of the base. Thea, glue and serew the cleats o the base. (We used 2 dril/countersink bic to pre-bore the screw holes.) Mark the location of the drill guide holes and those forthe dowel pins 1D) on part A. (See the drawing at right jor correct positioning.) Now, clamp parts Ato the B/C assembly and deil the oles through both part A and the base. Place a piece of serapwood beneath the base when drilling to prevent chipping.) ‘Cut the walnut pins (D) t length and. ‘chamifer one end of each, Glue the pins into the 1" hols inthe base, Using © bit, enlarge the "holes in A for an easier fit of the pins through the guide. Test the fitby sliding the guide onto the dowels; sand if necessary, Finish-sand all the parts and apply a polyurethane or lacquer finish. (When pplying the finish, try to keep it out of he drilled holes.) Apply wax tothe pins wex te FH, or a smoother fit nt the guide srl al EXPLODED VIEW Dsl: Raymond A Dobelstin supple #11 esd wood soo eran Roxanne Mote pareane re ih vewncoodontine.com 25 it's a8 easy a8 1-2-3. Most route-bit storage systems force you {o guess how many bits you'll add to your arsenal in the coming years. WOODS ‘magazine's Dave Campbell neatly side- stepped thet dilemma by designing this ‘modular storage system that fits in any drawer and easly grows to meet your expanding bit collection. A 1-2-3 progres- sion of block sizes maximizes the number of possible arangements. Dave set aside ‘one large square, and drilled itt hold rotary! bits, ‘To build your modular storage, rip ¥4" MDF (mecium-density fiberboard) into 144", 2/8" and 34"-wide strips, then ong SOx bASS EH. "Tease stock 6" metal rule, ited into a wae facie wh sce aalwestnace waite EXPLODED man Bae R VIEW Wi ve iam, magnet TEBE vegan \ we! ws idearnime sr )\ Teg fce ten | Ss dsp Cored | \ ve xian 210 $4" shank hol, brass siock countersunk XE hole w' deep “4 hola countersunk on otter ody bottom 4 groove, depth | YR 2S to rmetch hckness gy Walt stock mets ule BE xia ie Nagin dsb Shae soce "long, spared in place Finish-sand the body top and bottom, {aking care not to sand the maple guide excessively. Apply a clea finish. (We finished our gauge with Danish oil, then waxed and buffed it after the finish Lay the rule in its groove, and put the ‘wo body parts together. Insert a ‘ox12" flathead brass machine Screw from the botiom, and epoxy-glue the head into the countersink. Install a brass wash cer and wing nut was dry.) Buying Guide Rule and brass. Stainless steel 6" re, brass stock, brass hardware, and magnets for one marking gauge, kit no. 300MG, $21.95 ppd. in U.S. Schlabaugh and Sons Woodworking, 720 14th St, Kalona, 1A 52247. Call 800/346-9663 10 onder. ‘Countersink. This 82° countersink makes clean cuts in metal oF wood, with Yor! cutting range and a ¥4" shank. Tem no, 400905, $8.75, Address and tele- phone above. [Attach the brats ends to the body bottom before fing the notches forthe steel rule. Wo used the countersink, shown in the- foreground, on the brass ends, The con- tering bt ying beside the body, automet- ical centers te pilot holes Inside the Countareunk noes. Pct Dosion: James R Downing liuevaton Roxanna LaMome; Loma Johnson Pretographe: Metherngton Photography 53 sanding beauty came RUHL RO al eR TOL as PU CR Mens ym OMIT ER CO NOINeTHle) easy on the eyes, it will serve’ you well for many years to'come. This idea comes from WOODe maga zine reader M.C. “Morrie” Patten of Mesa, Arizona, who makes his lamina- tions long enough to yield atleast two sanding blocks ata time. That way, they're easier to machine, and he has several to present to his woodworking buddies. We were so impressed with Morrie’s idea, we decided to make a couple of these beauties for our own shop, and share his idea with you. Rip and crosscut a piece of #4" maple x10" Tong, enough for two bases (A). Now, joint, resavi, or hand-plane the ‘maple to 9" thickness, Rip two strips of walnut 4" wide from the edge of apiece of %" stock. Crosscut each to 10" for te sides (B). 54 Glue and clamp one walnut strip to ‘each edge of the maple base, with t bottom edges flush. Scrape off any g squeeze-cut Crosscut two 436"-Iong bases from the lamination Start by cutting one piece of %" maple (© and one piece of %" walnut (D) 10 2x10" long. Using a bandsaw or table saw, resaw the walnut into to pie under 3 tick each, ‘Glue and clamp the maple between the two pieces of walnut, sandivich- fashion, making sure that all edges align ely Remove the clamps and scrape off ‘any excess glue, Then, joint or plane the walnut top and bottom pieces toa fin ished thickness of 4" each, Now, joint or plane the edges until the pal snugly between the protruding walnut sides of the base. (You'll sand the palm ‘ip to finished width later.) CCrosscut the palm-grip lamination into wo 412" lengt Mark diagonals on the top of each palm grip to loc its center, postion the palm grip in the hase with the ends flush, Clamp the palm grip and base 10 your dril-press table, and drill a '6" guide hole through both pieves, as shown in the oto, right. (For this andthe following steps, we machined both sanding block pieoes at once. Separate the two pieces, and, using a flat-bottomed bit, drill a deep ito the top of the pal ole 4 atip, cen 101 Workshop Projects 2002 11 wing ut 1 fender washer 1 hole v4" deep —— cencovers tered over the guide hole. (See drawings above for hole size details.) Then, drill and counterbore a %" hole i" deep cen- ‘ered over the guide hole onthe bottom side ofthe bas. Drill a4" hole through the base and .1%is" hole through the palm grip, centering both holes onthe guide hole. e wrw.meodentine.com | aim orp EXPLODED VIEW Base x1 Fi ‘machine screw CCoumtersink the 4" ole on the boxtom side ofthe base Plane o sand is" of each side (nat he ends) ofthe palm grip fora 2" finished wid Camp the base, bottom up in a ‘woodworker's vise. Thread Yc" machine serew through the hoe, and tighten the palm grip to the hase with a wing nut. Epoxy the sere in the hoe in the base. Cut 3" maple plug, and epoxy it over the head ofthe sere. Detach the base from the palm grip, and sad the pg flash withthe bese Sand the base smooth Frit your table mounted roter witha 12" round-over bit, and rout the top edges of the palm grip. Finally, snd the palm grip ofc comfortably in your hand. ‘You may want to cut and glue apiece of felt tothe bottom of one or all of the sanding blocks for sanding pieces ‘with slight contours. Trim the edges of the felt ash withthe base END SECTION le 94" deep fled with a jameter maple pug Final assembly 4 Fita fender washer inthe hole in the palm grip. Theo, apply the finish of your choice to the base and palm grip. To use, slip the palm grip over the S bolt on the base, and just start the nut, Quarter a standard sheet of sandpaper, and tuck the sides under the palm grip. Now, tighten the wing mut to hold the sandpaper firmly in position Photographs: Bob Calor fustatone: Roxanne Leone materials lst. ase ry 1 Bes E pain 7 Di page We ae a We aerate Key Trap, Wa. “Pars ried wih” are cit aera, entire tofnahed se, Plate ed nares toler ctng ‘Supplies: Yo seas machine sew wih ender water en ng us po) el tn), fh 55 Note: You'll nee project. You can eit thicker stock to size. Cat a piece of walnut to Yisx118" (We planed 3" stock to %e" thick.) ‘Cu a 1%" rabbet %e" deep across both ends of the stock where, shown, ‘on Drawing 2 Fit your table-mounted router with a 20" core box bit and raise it 4" above the surface ofthe tle, Clamp a fence to your router table, and clamp a start-and ‘stopblock to the fence, where shown on Drawing 4 on page 58 With the rabeted ends facing down, position one end of the handle blank 6" wath for this ner resaw or plane against the star-block, and lower the bank onto the spinning cove bt. Hold the blank firmly against the fence, and push the stock until the opposite end of the bank reaches the stopblock. Keep the same surface down, and tur the blank tend for end; repeat the process to form the second cove on the other end where shown on Drawing 2. Crosscut two 7!"-long pieces from the 18" blank, where shown on Drawing 2 ‘To form the bras side caps, start by seribing a1" radius on both ends of ‘one ofthe 12" lengths of Yis"thick brass (See the Buying Guide atthe end of the article for our source of Y"-thick brass.) ‘Cut the radi to shape, (We used a band- saw fited with a" blade) File the eut edges smooth Using a hacksaw or bandsaw, cross- out each end of the brass strips to obtain the two 4e"-Jong brass side caps. Next, cut a third piece to "Ya x" for the end cap. For better auhesion to the epoxy in the next step, use 60-grit sandpaper fo rough up one surface of each brass piece. ‘Spread an even coat of epoxy on the sanded surfaces, and lightly clamp continued on page 58 401 Workshop Projects 2002 HIEXPLODED VIEW thax x7? brass blade tera oth weer oe Ys x96" RH, a machine scrow Sand of eomers. \ aldo gind comers owing rut wi WING NUT DETAIL Trim blocks to fished length, vrraocdentine.com IB FULLSIZE PATTERNS, 57 te brass side caps into the rabbet in the handle pieces where shown on Drawing 2 on he previous page. (Note: Excessive clamping pressure wil cause al or mast ofthe epary to squeeze out, resulting in a weak bond berween the wainut and bras.) After the epoxy has cured, cut and sand the walnut Hush with the brass. Cuta "thick piece of walnut thas just ir thicker than your brass and cut othe shape shown on Drawing 3 for the spcer piece. ‘With the ends and edges flush, glue and clamp the spacer between the handle pieces; see Drawing 1 for refer nce. Later, im th handle end square. 77 oy he sie of se trimmed end ofthe laminated handle ‘Mark te finger recess onthe handle, ‘where shown on Drawing 8. Using 2 drum sander, sand the reess to shape Mark the sight radius onthe want next tothe ends ofthe brass side ‘aps, where shown on the Top View detail accompanying the Drawing 1 ‘Drum-sand to the line and even with the brass being cre not o sand the brass, as shown inthe photo at right Next, add the brass blade “os fom the blade (also called a congue, miter-cut one end and radius the other end ofa piece of ist" brass to the shape shown on the Full-Size paters. Slide the brass blade inc the handle assembly with the rounded ends of the blade and handle flosh. Tape the Bide firmly in place, Punch a centerpoint on cone of the bras side caps Using a twist bit dil a4" ole through the handle/bade assembly, Remove the tape, and remove the blade from the handle. Assemble, add the finish ‘Sand or file the wings of «brass ‘wing nut tothe shape shown on the Wing Nut detail accompanying Drawing 1. For accurate measuring later, the wings ‘0m the nut must not protrude beyond the cedges ofthe handle assembly, where shown on the detail, 58 Statblock Mask the brass, and add the finish to the handle. (We applied Watco Danish oil) When th finish dries, remove the tape and add the blade Buying Guide Bevel kit Two pieces of Yoel2" bras, Yoo" brass machine serew, 4" internal tooth washer, "brass wing nt, Kit no. [XB, $11.95 ppd, Schlabaush and Sons, 720 14th Street, Kalona, IA 52247. Call $001346.9663 Produced by Maren Kemmat Peet Desig Jim Booting Phatogranhs: Hetherington Photogranhy Tusraters: Kim Downing; Mike Henry adil on the walnut portion of, the handle, and then sand to the line boing careful not to sand the brass. es bette pera retested had 08 tmidiead Wass man sew to rime te at Inset as machine eo gh onal ai ad thehand ase, Ait ing Polish th br th sande A pero sonore ying or sig mals. Renoe he De fe a athmde 4101 Workshop Projects 2002 *eep edges sharp with ‘this shop-made aid Sending by hand often tums what should save been a crisp edge info one that’s sanded and uneven, Reader Phil Otanicar < Evergreen, Colorado, says such round- exsare especially noticeable onthe soll projects he likes to make. Instead of spending money ona power edge sander, se designed a manual edge sander that Jamps to his workbench. ‘The 12x18" platform supports the pisce while you guide it against ROUTING THE FENCE SLOTS sandpaper attached to a fence. Thee slots in the fencs let you slide it up and down fo expose fresh sandpaper 2s needed, Coarse papers snounted on one side of the fence; the oer side has finer paper. Sawdust falls nto the space between the fence and platform. Make the fence first, outing the slot as shown in the four steps of the drawing, right. Rout each slot in tree pases—the ist about Assemble the scraper and slip the when sharpening. © scraper blade into postion, Tighten wing nut onthe alF-thread rod to hold sade flat—they tend to ben slightly blade to avoid curving the blade. (We precision miter stop Make it in minutes, use it as a lifetime addition to your shop. Use this handy stop on your own 256"-wide miter- gauge extension, or addi to your radial-arm saw Fence. It fits onthe Fence, and allows you to cut piece after piece tothe same length. 4 * thread rod 2 lng epoxied counterbore Yet deep witha 2° O00 "hole eortered inside 26 gountorbore 1A" deep wth a Tole centered insioe ve Tut rt es ees 1 abbot | a choi EXPLODED VIEW | eee corse nee ~2ve rabbet— Ptorgadge onencten te Fuster: Rosanne Lacing Ya" deep The extension to 24" wide. ame z stand-tall tablesaw felme A Here's a simple fixture that makes work- / he pieces stand upright and ready for cutting. x Now you can stand workpcces, such as webbed extension raised panels, upright and cut their edges wings, measure ‘on your tablesaw. Just use this auxiliary between the centers tablesaw fence designed by WOODe of the webs atthe magazine reader Joe Xaver of Aubum, front and rear of the linois. The jig bolts temporarily to your extensions. Make the removable spreader location of the tuts, and bolt the tall saw’s existing fence o let you make these this length, and add 194" to find the fence to your saws fence as shown in cuts safely and accurately, and fo length of the crossmember, (The dimen- the photo above. supports make for flat storage sions shown ar for & table that is 261" Before using the jig forthe frst ime, Before you begin, take a few measure- between the centers ofthe front and rear adjust the nylon glides so the tll fence: ‘ments from your saw to ensure proper fit, webs.) For saws with said extension is perpendicular to your saws table Fir, examine your saw’s existing fence wings, shorten the dimensions shown for top. When you're done, unbolt the unit ‘o see if drilling it for the machine serews, those pieces by 4" from your fence, pop out the removable where shown in the drawing below, will Armed with that information, build the spreader (attach it to the top edge of the interfere withthe fence’s operation, and auxiliary fence as shown in the drawing. _ctossmember for storage, fold up the Spenco tounge Melhyee estat ‘epuinmgnstalce seal EXEL OSD VE WA eo ctr ins 4 (hook side) Cross member Bay T9028" stock continous 1% hinge 8g x ymxon! oo Leveling gia z hole nace, tor menging) = wernt “10 Nim te Hooke-andioop ‘4 hole set deep | / fastener (oop side) ‘tha i hole Ye countorbore m: 2 ea a seme, oe o | Heese \ sa yt ‘centarad inside De i bp! Length of screw=width, ia 43 of tat mer See ey ac ge 4 deep. centered fb 66 rotating finishing table Avoid smudges and sticky Angers with a mini-lazy Susan that turns while you stay put and spray. EXPLODED VIEW als you can walk completely around sharpn op stanwel car workbench, you're limited 0 fish ota wes ng oly two, maybe te, ies of your Seine at projects without iting ther, With his sesou 7] Bonded versatile finishing tumtable designed by a Eris WOODo magazine reader Mike Sames, of Fairview, Michigan, you can apply fin- ish to every surface without taking a step or lifting the project. To use the table, space three or four sharpened dowels where they'll best sup- port your workpiece. (You may need to sand the base of the dowels slightly o fit the holes.) Finish the back or bottom, , x 12"lam. 1 then place the piece finished sie down nee ‘onthe dowels—the points make minimal 8" Roles 34" deep 1e pilot hole, ‘contact with the fresh finish. Finish the 18 doop Ns remaining surfaces by rotating the 1 el lazy Susen tumntable while you spray. Hold spr Ly ‘mall photo, above right. smaller pars with lthespins eS 8 plu to dowels as shown inthe Buying Guide 6" lary Susan. Available from woodworking hardware catalogs, including Woodworker's Supply, fol as 800/645-9292, and Wooderal, i \ [ 800/225-115: Fubberfeet] ‘usta: Kim Downing PPatogrann: Baldwin Photography wusoadoninecom 67 Let a template ensure safe, repeatable results. ‘When it came to shaping the flared-out bottoms of the legs for anighistand, WOODe magazine staters had 10 do some brainstorming. For uniformity, the staff needed t0 guide a shaping tool along ‘template, Buta flush- trimming bit ‘chucked inthe table-mounted router ‘caused chipping where the leg curves and the wood grain intersected the routed face, There was also the problem of sale- ly holding on tothe narrow workpiece, ‘The solution? A drill-press mounted jig that combines a “pilot-bearing” rub block with a sanding drum, Here's how you can ‘make one yourself Cut the base from plywood or partile- board, and place it on your drill-press table, centered under the chuck, Mark the Tocations of your drill-press table slots, and drill counterbored holes for the block for each sizeof sanding drum you ‘mounting bolts. Drill holes for the dowel have, sizing them about vis" larger than ‘and the rub-block locking bolt. Glue the the drums.) Cua piece of 14" hardboard ‘dowel in place, Measure the diameter of to this width, and bandsaw and sand the ‘your sanding drum. (You can make a ub radius on one end. Rout or saw the slot, EXPLODED VIEW 1 ew eanding drum een carn ng woetewienganeed colea/ g aragetah el vr et ae tn bk colt hace facie ceacien oe ‘um flush wth outs vetcamiage bot ‘edge of rub block ieee ondat se comin rebalne, wil Raed Bae Bese % x 10.18" plywood Ye wing nut and water and drill the centered hoe to clear the end of the sanding drums shaft To use your pater sander aston the base to your dil-press able with the ex rag bolts. Install the rub block, and ciueck up your sanding drum, Swivel the Atil-pres tablet align the rub block side-to-side withthe sanding drum then lock the table in plac. Slide the rub block con the dowel and locking bot to align it front-to-back. Tighten the locking bolt. ‘Make your template pattem from V3"= thick materi, (We laminated two layers of 4’ hardboar,} Bandsaw your work- piece to rough shape, and adhere your template patter to it with double-faced tape. Move the workpiece against the sping sanding drum until tbe pattem contacts the ub block. station: Roxanne LeMone; Lorna Johnson Protograp: Mary Balawin 401 Workshop Projects 2002 wep aR EDR EHERS ST EGORRRGKER S&S ol ae = ole inserts are a snap to ake with a trimming bit. matter how finely sharpened a saw Jado set, of molding knives may kpiove is not completely supported by table inset. To alleviate that problem, © followed the advice of WOOD» mag. zine reader Michael Cosgrove, of Goose eck, South Carolina, and created 7er0- Jearance inserts for all our different r iades using a router and plywood seraps. To make inserts, use double-faced tape o adhere your metal tablesaw insert to 2 plywood blank the same exaet thickness as the metal inser. Then, cut the plywood blank slightly over-sized with a bandsaw being extremely careful not to cut into the metal insert. Next, fit your router with a laminate flush-teimming bit, Adj setting so the bit's bearing rides alon cedge ofthe metal insert and th contac only the wood, Rout the ply wood tothe exact shape as the metal insert, Keep several blanks on hand for a variety of tasks and blades, Note: Ifyou can't make a blank that is the same thickness asthe tablesaws orig- inal insert, make one that is slightly 0 thin. Then apply dabs of hot-melt glue to he tablesaw's insert-support surfaces before putting the blank in place and set fing it flash with the tabletop. ® he cutter Wt Photo shows the insert blank ater being bandsawn to rough shape, but prior to boing routed to.exact shape. 6 This pair of handheld blocks will provide an added measure of safety and even increase your productivity. Cutting wedges and ripping thin strips rank among. the more dangerous tasks you can pecform on a tablesaw. Our owo ripping blocks add « measure of safety to these operations, plus you only posi- tion the fence once to make multiple pieces. ‘You can build these from any flat pieces of serapwood. Just follow the guidelines given in the drawing below right To make the handle, cut out and enlarge the pattem provided below. And don’t ‘neglect to add the keepers on the blade side of the tnandle of each block. These prevent the cut pieces from kicking back, . Reales ‘To use either block, set the distance from the | fence to the inside edge of the blade equal to the ‘width of the rear of the block. Place the workpiece | {n the notch in the block, and push it and the block i together past the blade, With the fence in the same position, repeat the cuting operations for any ‘number of identical wedges or thin strips.® Hx FH. Wood seven PPetograph: Hetherington Photography Inusbations: Roxanne LeMoine HANDLE PATTERN Note: Eni 200% to maka. to shape of wed Notch equals widest pan of weege. Fa | exert wood serew 70 401 Workshop Projects 2002 sure-grip jointer pushstick your hands safely above e fence with our simple, -tall shop aid. Tee next time you're jointing wood, keep and safely above the fence and out of cms way while applying even “down” re with this extratall pushstick. A ;ched bottom edge provides a needed grip « pushing the wood smoothly and effec- | svely over your tool's knives, copy the pat- sm for the handle, Befow; and follow the imensions onthe drawing, below right, to onstruct the one-piece pushstick. ject Desig: dames R. Bowing ‘ratio: Kim Bowning | Proteape Wm, Hopkins We used our smoothing plane Randle as & pattern. — FULLSIZE HANDLE PATTERN EXPLODED VIEW 4+ rounc-overs: swe woodontine.com m - | cam-action fence stop Make sure your multiple cuts are precise with this easy-to-make device. ‘This handy belper takes the guesswork ‘out of setting up for precise muhiple cuts on your radial-arm saw. Frazier Moore of Wamer Robins, Georgia, designed it to lock on a ¥4"-thick fence. You also could clamp it onto the auxiliary wooden fence ‘on your tablesaw miter gauge, For aligned bolt and screw holes, clamp pieoes together when drilling, Note: All stock is Yi" thick ® Photograat: Bob Calmer stations: Kim Gowning 48 194" FH. wood screw SA ep ‘Ye shank hale, countersunk, pe" plot hole deep 24s" shank hol, countersunk \ \ 4 Nat washer Wx 14°F Locking lever tod saow ~~ a et heshoad bat } ene 24 ole ¥" deep witha v* hole centered inside FULL-SIZE PATTERNS | Edge tine a8 angle te prevent scat araup rR 401 Workshop Proj jects 2002 — thin-stri d r handy support helps cut down ripping risks. sip thin stip between your table- lade and ep fence with his fenee- pored pushblock. The replaceable end sc allows you to push the thin piece being cut completly through the cuting 2c, eliminating the chance of kickback. Copy the Full-Size Hanale pater, selow right, © mak the ouine forthe pashbloek handle, We've lated the han- c up and out ofthe way so your fingers remain safely away from the blade during she cuting operation EXPLODED VIEW = ¥04 12" plywood cut to width of foneo %4x7¥6 x12" Handle sie — _— 7" pilot hole ve deep *e" hole, Countersunk All corows are #8x 14" brass FH, wood serows. cutto ft with of ablesaw ro fence Yx v3.8" replaceable Ena bisce FULL-SIZE HANDLE PATTERN Froject Dasign: Richard W. Brunkow ‘alow Photography Icswatone: Roxanne LeMoine wormwoodentine.com 13 back-to-basics sawhorses These great shop assistants come in the four-legged variety, and there’s never a problem with upkeep. (Our simple, sturdy sawhorses ae only 2 tall, but you can build 2 pair any size you want ‘and get the help you need. Here’s how: To build « 30"-ong x 24"- high sawhorse, begin by crosscutting a 30" top beam and four 30" legs. (We used scrap construction-grade 2x6 for the top and 1i<6s for the legs.) Tilt the tablesaw blade to 15° and bevel ‘one edge ofa 12"-long scrap 2x3. Serew it to the miter gauge as shown in the Side View. [Remove the saw blade and insert a dado - Batons ie ado no8 ; 15% bevel bide, Set the blade at 0° (paral! with the ie bevel miter gauge grooves), and raise it" above fang at bath ends the surface ofthe table of each fog ‘To cut the dadoes inthe top beam, position the miter gauge in the slot tothe right ofthe blade and set the miter gauge 10° righ of center, as shown in the Compound Angle 146 Dado Cuting drawing. Before cuting, mark reference lines for the location of the four ddadoes on the bottom side of the 26, then ‘mark Xs on waste sock with a pencil to ‘make sure you cut on the correc sie of the Dado cut {mark on bottom side) Tines. With the 2x6 positioned against the faces beveled fence, cut dado no. 1, then flip the N 2x6 end for end and cut dado no. 2. Now. > move the miter gauge to the left side ofthe EXPLODED VIEW blade and set the miter gauge £0 10" lef of 74 COMPOUND ANGLE DADO CUTTING 18%, Bottom side fn sinay feces fornar SIDE VIEW Position no 2 ado0s 3 84 center, and cut dadoes nos. 3 and 4 as you id 1 and 2. Remove the serap 2x3 from the miter szauge, and replace the dado blade with a regular 4" blade. Set the blade at 15° left of center, and with the miter gauge 10° right of center and on the left-hand side of the blade, cut one end of each lg. (If your ‘aw blade tits right from center, you will need to change the miter gauge Setting to 10° left of center and make the first cut ‘withthe miter gauge on the right-hand. wren oedentin.com TOP VIEW side ofthe blade.) Keep the settings the ‘same, and move the miter gauge to the ‘opposite side ofthe blade; cut the remain- ‘ng ends o& finished length of 25" Attach the legs tothe top, using 1% drywall screws, (We used three serews foreach le.) Do not use glue on the assembly, because you may need to replace a par if it ges cut accidentally ‘To make the four gusets, return the blade to 0° and set the miter gauge at 15°, CCrosscut the gussets tothe dimensions iter gauge ) Bevet-cut wood fence sorewod tomer gauge. lamp io miter ‘gauge to help rovent Kickback. shown in the Exploded View drawing, and attach them with 194" drywall screws. ‘f you want a smoother finish, lightly belt-sand all the joinery flush. Photograph: Bob Calmer stators: Roxanne LeMoin; Bil Zaun 5 knockdown sawhorses After a hard day's work, these sturdy horses stow away in minimal space while waiting for their next task. A pair of sawhorses come in mighty handy when you cut sheet goods or need to set up a temporary work area. But Where do you corral them wien you're not using them? Build these tury horses, designed by WOODe magazine reader Wade Olson, of Colfax, Wash,, and when you are done using them, you simply break them down and hang, them flat agains the wall With no hardware co fuss with, you can assemble and. Aisassemble the pieces in just seconds. Because they're made completely of wood, you'll never have t0 worry about catching a saw blade on a metal bracket or fastener One full sheet of 9" plywood yields a pair of sawhorses ‘The beam ends and stretcher ends are shown in the inset photo right. To make them, enlarge the patterns below:® Potogrphs: Baldwin Photography usstene: Roxanne LeMoine 1 hole forhanging i | r OS | aa) STRETCHER AND BEAM f PATTERNS ‘ 1" " Note: Enlarge i ~ 200% to max | ful-size patterns 6 101 Workshop Projects 2002 fold-out work support : Maximize your shop space with a sturdy support unit that folds up and stows away neatly. Short on work space? Try this compact project. Spread the legs fora stable sup- ‘port when cutting bulky pieces of sheet ‘goods. Or, position a piece of plywood on its top, and use it as a temporary work- table as needed. Then, when you're done, just fold it up and hang the support on two ladder hooks. wreaanuace © tl ee Pict Design: Marvin Hoppenworth, Cedar api, lowa Tusrtions: dame Downing; Lome Johnson Protegron: doh Hetherington Bench folded into ~ stored poston | Screw nto wal stu, Mounthinges _*T-Hinge thom. Aw EXPLODED VIEW 78 101 Workshop Projects 2002 knock-down cutting platform en you're done working, our platform can hide in plain sight in your rafters. EXPLODED pie sae i sive plywood VIEW Stet goods often presenta real challenge shen iteomes to cutting them down into roject-sized pieces. Even if you have the vom in your shop fo maneuver a full sheet # plywood, singlehandedly balancing it on our tblesaw while cuting it can prove to be impossible. Ate struggling with 2s and sawhorses, ceader Richard Brunkow of Milligan, Nebraska, determined that it wasn't the swhorses, but the shifting, sagging 24s that were the problem. So he came up with the idea for a knock-down platform that sets up fexwt Syl 7 : a we = awars_¥ | Foe — ‘foth Ax I9Iex 18 vax ayx tev ta 1.20 stock ‘mesh hardware cloth ae c pote DRAWER SIDE wx aux s0se { SECTION VIEW Bred baton | a ty | "shank noe, eeuntaroune Te Tee sreen doar hanc DRAWER GUIDE ees SECTION VIEW Soray adhesives work wonderilly for most home and girden centers, allows the drawer. Add the high ofthe apron tothe adhering scrollsaw pattems to a work: glue overspray topes harmlssy through hight ofthe drawer guides, To koxp the Piece. Butte inevitable glue verspray tothe drawer botom. And your pattems drawer fom pong as it opens, attach an | an leave areal mess on your benchtop. won't stick to this mesh addional sd" hardwood runner to Ad if you spread out newspaper, you Build the drawer and guides as shown each drawer guide 2" from the bottom ‘ily find thatthe paters sick othe inthe drawings. Atach the guides tothe of the guide newspapers wells they doto your underside of your benchnop with #2 workpiece. Tis handy adhesive drawer flathead wood screws nnakes the job slick, nt sticky Ifyou have an apron beneath the top of BOELDes: lek Hutcheson The hardware cloth, available from _yourbench, you'll need to Tower the Protopapk Mary Balin ‘wv eodoniine.2om 87 rz rotary tool mini router table Custom designed for smal pieces, this little table keeps hands free and the work steady. Small pioes often require precise outing that justin’ safe ona full-size router table. And, tying to shape the workpiece in one hand with rorary too held inthe ‘ther isn't any beter To solve the prob- lem, WOODe magazine reader Chuck Middleton, of Sulphur, Lousiana, built {his scaled-down able to house his high- speed rotary tool. “To make your custom holder, stat by cating clamp blocks ofthe body of your rotary tool Line the inside curved surface ofthe blocks with weaberstip- ping or some type of foam. The foam allows you to secure the rotary tool I Te pk tie cara e between the blocks without cracking the si J tool housing when tightening the blocks { EXPLODED VIEW around the tool, Cut the table, end sup- oe ports, and back: tothe sizes shown on the ‘drawing at right, Assemble the table. Secure your rotary tool in place, being careful not to oventighten the knobs. Mark the hole location needed for your largest rotary bit, remove the table, and il the hole, Screw the table back in place, we ‘ag overhangs 109 past base ‘or camping 0x1 FH. out Wood screw 94" carlage bot 8" long {Datars Clamp the minj-table to your work- \ ‘counterbore ve" bench, 28 shown inthe phot or lide one deve nak or af the provuding end ofthe back into 8 Sead bite flush-mountd beh vis. a For relly small pieces, Chuck prefers f to hold the workpiece with a miniature clamp, o even secure be workpiece 1 the end of enoer ple of wood with or double faced tape of hot-melt she. This keeps his fingers safely vay from the spinning bit se pile soos > , ‘ Dicod coceaeeas ee stan: Kn Downing he Ween Rear ‘clap tern Phtoorphy eas endback® - 28 101 Workshop raat 2002 re your hands and your es by securing your m sander in our sturdy table-mounted holder. ing to hold a palm sander in one hand «small project in the other ean make ‘ou feel abit like a juggler. Our holder Jamps firmly to your workbench, allow- 1g you to see your sanding progress while leaving both handsfree to control the workpiece, Fora proper fit, carefully measure the shape of your sander's motor housing to determine the opening size. To make changing sandpaper a breeze, leave enough clearance between the palm-sander pad and the top of the holder to allow you to change sandpaper without having t remove the sander. To fit the Porter Cable 330 shown, we EXPLODED VIEW See cut a4" hole in a 6x65" block and 4 a are trimmed the block othe siz shown “canerune Hole sizes will vary for other brands and models of sanders. ‘4 wing nut and washer — ¥6" carriage bolt 8° long 4 Poject Design: Rus Ivetton: Kim Downing Jim Stovenson Pretoorahs Hetherington Photography worm aroodentine.com 89 Grab some extra support when you machine the edges of wide and tall workpieces. Cut the base and upright (A) to the size listed inthe Materials List. (We ut ours from 34" birch plywood.) Cut and sand a ¥4" radius on two comers of each piece, where shown on the Exploded View and Parts View drawings atk the slot locations on the top face of the base, where dimensioned fn the Parts View drawing, Drill a9 hole at each end ofthe marked opening. Using a jigsaw or scrosaw, cut between the holes to form the slot, Cut the square-corered braces (B) to shape, Rout" round-overs along ‘one edge, where shown on the Exploded View drawing Dry-clamp the four pieces (A, B) together. Dill the mounting holes, where shown on the Parts View drawing, ‘Then, glue and screw the assembly together, checking that the upright is square tothe base Cut the miter-zauge guide strip (C) to fit into the miter-gauge slot in your tablesaw. The size will vary, depending ‘on your saw. (Our dimensions inthe Materials List worked for a 10" Delta Unisaw-) Cut the upright stop (D) and clamping bar (E) to size. Beltsand a taper ‘on cach end of the clamping bar, where shown on the Paris View drawing. 90 Mark the hole centerpoints on each piece (C, D,E), where dimensioned ‘on the Exploded View and Parts View drawings, Drill the holes. Countersink the ‘mounting holes on the bottom side of the ‘guide stip (C). t's important thatthe ‘machine screws used to fasten the guide strip tothe base don’t rub against the bot- tom of the slot in your saw table ‘Attach the guide strip, upright stop, and clamping bar tothe jig. When fas- ‘ening the clamping bar, be sure 10 posi tion the curved edge next tothe upright To prevent burning and rough cuts when bevel ripping the edges of a panel, the out- side face ofthe jig upright (A) must be parallel to the miter-gauge slo. The jig upright must also sit ata right angle to the saw table ‘To align the jig parallel with the miter- gauge slots, positon the jig on the saw table withthe guide strip (C) inthe miter ‘gauge slot. Then, align the jig parallel to (ur plywood jig excels at providing ‘support when cutting raised panels, tends (see photo Inset above), tenons, ‘and open mortises as wll the other miter-gauge slot. Do this by ‘measuring the distance from both ends of the jig to the slot. Then, tighten the knobs ‘on the machine screws that go through the guide strip and slots in the base. Measure carefully to verify and real necessary. Finally, test-cutsorap 10 the alignment, ® Caution: Before mi sure the top of the blade les below the m the saw, be carriage bolts used t0 secure the clamp. ing bar to the upright (A). Finally, rip a piece of scrap stock to verify alignment. If the piece burns or binds, recheck Vour ‘measurements and adjust accordingly Produce by Maton Kermet Poet Dos: James fi Bowring Phetog-ashs Wim. Hopkine 401 Workshop Projects 2002 #101" FH, machine screw EXPLODED VIEW 2" plastic knob © Clemging bar. (Curve on this edge. carriage bot 33" long ve fat washer ve at washer, 2 ‘Compression spring o> ex 116° FH. ‘wood sera '¥et ole, countersunk on bottom $ Mount @) ore, [> #8 x 11 FH. wood soreu © Guide strip (sized to ft your tablesew) 2" hela, countersunk of bottom, and contered eage-to-edge raw a “ Conterotcurye ©Claping bar an Buying Guide Harder. 2" pasts ibs), #1024 Fl 2 We ampresson sings 2, YT machine sere 2} Fs fama maine ro (cae fae tls erg) fe washes 6), #1 a head ood stems Seck no. $157 pod Packt eve Tet 1 St Des Woes Ik 5008, al BABS, eee, “deep on botom side) | Rana? some woodentine.com a i = safe & simple thin-strip ripper Ripping thin strips between the tablesaw blade and fence can be risky. But this simple jig allows you to cut strip after strip to uniform thickness, and without the worry of kickback. From %" plywood, ent the base (A) 107" wide by 10” long. Referring tothe Top View drawing of the base for location, mark the four centerpoints forthe "holes, Drill the holes where marked. Now, use a straight- edge to mark lines from hole to hole to lay out the pair of Yic"-wide slots 392 Jong on the ply woo crallsaw oF slots, Sand or file the cut edges ach slot Mark diagonals on the base to loc the center, and drill a hoe forthe Cut the miter-gange slot guide (B) 10 (Check that the serew heads don’t pro- handle to the size sated on the Exploded the wieth and depth of your miter- trude, Then, epoxy a 4x 11" flat- ‘View drawing, Sand the base smooth, gauge slot, and erosscut ito 10" Jong. head machine serew in each countersunk sanding chamfer along one edge The guide should fit smugly in the slot; ole. Wipe off excess epoxy. to allow for sawdust buildup. Jose fit can result in uneven thin strips Fasten the guide tothe base with ¥" Fasten 22"-diameter knob (we used 2 Inter. Our guide measured 36" thick by 14 washers and wing nuts standard wooden cabinet knob) to the wide For the guide to slide easily in the | base, making sure the head ofthe mount- slo, you may need to lightly sand one {ng serew doesn't protrude below the bot- edge. Mark the centerpoint forthe two tom surface Vs" holes. Drill and countersink the holes. 2 401 Workshop Projecte 2002 EXPLODED VIEW 2"-dlam, wooden knob TOP VIEW Ewing it eee — eee Screwhole centerpoint | wetaewaster ce sit es ve cet ines om e oe me : wna ra oe i eae = Ht ly Base 9 we 7 ve Tne | a ‘hole. courteraunk —_AMtergauge slot ide _ Me sue I bia = it ’ : Spovwdts gice® 96x 94x 120" stock eeu aeadoran © \ cotemiter-gauge sen) machine screw g Wood Serow a, Ma YIM, machine seven 408" Tong S 36 long 98 401 Workshop Projects 2002 angled tablesaw miter jigs either of these simple jigs, make cutting accurate 45° miters sier than ever before, 1 square and accurate 45° miters just gota whole lot sir with these angled tablesaw miter jas. The ig cried Ron the drawing below fis on the right-hand he blade, as shown in Photo A. The jig marked L, smn Photo B, right bottom, fis into the miter gauge onthe left-hand side of the Bade se cither ig for iter-cuting 45° ales, Or, tum the ig srked L end for end, and use the fence to support pieces ven ersscuting ther a 90, as shown in Photo B. fully position and glue the ¥2c1¥ guides in place smately, the angles cut ae only as socurae as the posi ning ofthe guides ® PLODED view ‘ox 1" samdust “ kor cut along front exge Thx (stock cut to — « piyweod miter -guage slots Es 73h plot holes 1! deep a (te ovean “Zon ach en mo ye sewoesnoodontine.com countersunk Note: Our jigs were designed to {fit a 10" contractors saw, Adjust 1s necessary to fit your tablesa For ease in construetion, attach the three fences to one piece of 1/8" stock, cand them eut the 1A stock in half where shown on the drawing 90 versatile panel-cutting sled Split a hair and make it square with our wide-body tablesaw accessory. ‘When you use our panel-cutting sled, {you'll never wonder if the comer you just ut is square, For hair- splitting accuracy, the beefy fence is fixed at 90° tothe blade and shows exactly where your saw blade will cut, Additionally, the fenoe-leading design holds wider workpieces more solidly and keeps your work eloser than fence trailing jigs. Build the jig according tothe drawing at right. We made ours from birch-veneer plywood with a solid poplar fence, but ‘you could use any 1" plywood or medi- ‘um-density fiberboard and a straight scrap cf 24. Cut both pieces 6” longer than shown: you'l trim them to their exact length after you build the jg Note: A wellsuned sablesav is essential to complete the job. The saw blade must be perfectly parallel 1 the miter slr Before attaching the miter-siot bar, ensure the comer formed by the fence and the right edge ofthe sled is square. Make ‘a mark 3” from the comer along one edge, and 4" along the perpendicular ccdge. Measure diagonally between the two marks, Ifthe diagonal measures exactly 5°, your comer is square. If t's more than 5", the angle i greater than ‘90°; less than 5°, and it’ less than 90°, [Next, measure the distance between ‘your tablesaw’s blade and miter slot and add 4°, Using thar measurement and a ‘combination square, scribe a line on the hoitom of the sied, measuring from the saw blade edge. Attach the miter-siot bar slong the seribed line. With the sled's guide bar in your table~ saw's miter-gauge slot, erank the say blade up to full height, Run the sled 400 V4x206" RAH, machine sefen wih head ct of 44x 16x atop 7 \ \ xz FH ‘machine sorew 1 threaded insert, 46" 10424" ong S| 4" look nut ye SAE flat washer 12 xx 18" stock * Or, the width of he ‘gauge sot, not i Epoxy wing nut to machine screw. EXPLODED VIEW Distance from blade former gauge slot through the lade, slicing off the extra from both the base and the fence, ‘You can now cut with confidence by aligning the cut line on your workpiece with the edge of the fence, For repetitive cuts less than 27", clamp astopblock to the fence, When cutting pieves up to 48", Tock inthe sleds builtin stopblock. Projet cosion: Chavos Heatund Photograph Baldwin Photography Iisvatons: Raxanne Leone STOP DETAIL vex2" EH. ——— ‘machine Srew 24° hole Ori betore cuttng st) Ye" lot 1¥¢ ong aL hole 3 a V4! SAE tat washer “=~ "lack rut 401 Workshop Projects. 2002 Keep your fingers safe and your workpiece steady with @ few pieces of wood and the tum of a T-nut. For dling jobs, i's esonia tht you hold ‘he workpece securely tothe able and agains a fence before engaging the bit With smaller workpieces you may not have clamps withthe necessary jaw depth, an a showin the example above, you don't want get your Fingers clseo knock busting le ctters. Hol downs ae the answer, andere’ a version that will on 1620 Strib set yu back te costo the knobs anda €c tea ro. (Many woodworking catalogs amy such kno) Use the flsize patter below andthe drawing at rit © make & Rie holdsdown, 4 dowel og We dled tre holes into each side of cur dil pres tbl for accommodating workpieces of various sizes. Each hole is cuted with T.nu for aezaping the attend od all-thread rod. EXPLODED VIEW Tenut FULL-SIZE HOLD-DOWN PATTERN vrnwwoodontine.com 101 bali-dri Our simple design goes to the very center of a common drilling problem. Drilling perfectly centered holes in hardwood balls ean be tough. While you can hold a ball scurely in a wood hhandscrew, centering it under the bit on yout drill press is difficult. Solve this problem with this quick-to-build jig. To make it easy to clamp the jg 10 your drill press, make the length of the base the Same as the width of your dil-press table. Drill the countesbored holes forthe carriage bolts and the large holes in the base and cap. (See the Jig Hole Guide below.) Insert the bolts and center the base by lowering the bit back into the hole, and holding it there ‘while you clamp the base to your drill-press table. Place the bal over the hole, side the cap down on the protruding carriage bots, and tighten it onto the ball with washers and wing nuts. Chuck inthe proper bit and drill away. sustaton: Kim Downing: Lorna Johnson Photogapn: Balewin Photography JIG HOLE GUIDE Hole. alg Tee THD Bin, Ba 7 Cas St 102 | ' i i i ye wing rut ; _ flat washor a a a a 3 1 ‘4 counterbore ¥" doe a (oiled on bottom sie) wth a avs" hale centered nse 1 ve caniage bot 4 ong 401 Workshop Projects 2002 Spacers help you locate hole positions for fast, accurate production drilling. wax EH, > wood serens 4x TH" fence Having worked for more than forty years asa printer, WOOD» magazine reader Bill Lacey is familiar with the process called “step and repeat.” In printing, small images, such as business cards, are repro dduced in rows and columns to fila full sheet of pape. Because he builds toys in smal batches and needs to quickly and accurately repeat drilling operations, Bll adapted this idea to his woodworking, ‘The jig has two components: the eat- sage, equipped with rear and end fences, ‘andthe spacers, which allow you to posi- tion your workpiece. The sequence of bh ee Cees (arrecrs Pre peareanye I photos shows how to we the jig Build the earige ax shown inthe deaing. Th sizeof he cas can Vary Seater aes celine te ete gee di pest, You ean eu paces to stan- Gard widths ahead of tne, orcusom- incl cea fc eee ceok shat param cuits in wis fom 4 oT” Vs inctements, tod fro 1106 nT increments. Cat Althe spaces ofthe same width atthe PTET fate ca cg . petinsshn "ie pugs canoe i cen Sito dl le ina cibbugs board. We ho Sea Feat elec et ea cen Spacers betwen the fences andthe piece to progressively move it away from the cx etc eet on ta at Rae Tapes ieee eee terete increments is yellow spaces in ‘increments. notgtapne Baldwin Photoerapty liuaveton Roxanne Latfine veveawoodantine.com 103 pocket-hole drilling guide Take the hassle out of angled mounting holes with our simple drilling accessory. Equipped with this handy shop aid, you can drill quick, accurate pocket holes for fastening face frames to cabinets, aprons to tabletops, and other similar tasks requiring angled mounting holes, To build the drill uide shown at righ, just follow the instructions on the drawings below: Cut a block and apply the patterns 4 From 1/is stock, cuta block to 240314". Adhere dhe 1 Ful Size Patems to it. Locate and bore a "hole, using «spade bt inthe dil press. Bandsaw the guide to shape ©) Clamp 23" length of 1" iron pipe Ys" O.D,) into a ‘© machinists vie. Using 4%" twist dil, slowly eam out the inside ofthe pipe to 1". Bpoxy’the pipe into the %" hole, fush wih the top of dhe Bock. After epoxy set up, hacksaw the pipe of at an angle to match the block. Use a stationary sander to sand the pipe Tush, Break sharp edges ‘of steel with file and emery cloth ProjctDosign: James Downing Nutetone: Kim Bowing Photograph Win. Hopkins ; FULL-SIZE PATTERNS Cutto shape Bator intaling Poe. ou END VIEW FINISHED GUIDE SIDE VIEW 104 401 Workshop Projects 2002 drill-press jig for dowels 5 When boring holes in 1 dowels, the dowels can roll around freely. Here are two ways to hold them still. Drilling holes into the sides and ends of dowels can challenge even the best woodworkers, The problem: trying to bold round stock in position. Try these simple jigs to hold the dowels rock-steady. Both jigs rely on a V-groove that you cut into a piece of 2x20" serapwood. To cut the V, tlt the blade of your lublesaw to 30° from vertical, and set the cutting depth to %", _Clamped to the dil-press table, this grooved piece of serap- as shown in Cutting the V-Groove detail drawing. Adjust the ood holds dowels steady for horizontal driling.. fence to place the top ofthe cut on the centerline of the board. Make one pass aver te sa blade, tum the board around, and run it through again, creating a 60° V-groove. Crasscut a 434" piece off one end. The longer piece holds yur dowels flat on the table, as shown inthe photo at right ‘op. The shorter piece forms the basis forthe second jig, ‘whieh holds dowels vertically For drilling imo their ends, ‘To complete the vertical jig, cut a 173%" block, clamp it ‘o the back of the 414" piece and check to make sure thatthe ‘V-groove is perpendicular to the base. Then glue and screw the two picces together, as shown in the Exploded View drawing. Use the vertical jg, as shown in the photo right ‘rctgraphs: Hetheington Photography ‘Mstatene: Rexanne LeMoine EXPLODED VIEW —*] VERTICAL Jig” ~ ae | sexier rH wood serew sen ‘40" shank hole, countersunk wunawoodontin.com 105 drawer-p mounting j Mounting drawer pulls has never been easier than with this handy shop helper. ‘Mount drawer pulls ina jiffy by taking a few minutes to build this jig. With it, you cea shave los of time off the task of Arling drawer-pull mounting bok. To-use it first cut a 14” scrap piece to ‘5¥ox12". Then, mark a vertical centerline ‘on te jig. Mark and dil centered holes for the pulls on both sides of the vertical Tine. For most drawers you will want to locate the holes inthe jg so the pulls are centered on the heghtof the drawer fronts. Then, mark the center of each raver fronton its top edge, align the jig's vertical centerline with it, and dill the holes, as shown in the photo ® aE EXPLODED VIEW 106 401 Workshop Projects 2002 i Line up and drill your door handle locations with this imple, can't-fail jig. Here's an efficient way to install door handles This jig works much like the irawer-pll jig on the previous page. But, 4s you can seein the drawing, it has solid-wood cleats on both sides so that you ean locate hanes on either the left orright side of adjoining doors. After drilling holes for one handle, just flip the ig over and il from its other side for handles located on opposite door sides. EXPLODED VIEW + Drawer-pul rmaunting holes vewwatoodentine.comt 107 A no-nonsense project that's easy to use. Given how specialized the tools are for pocket-hole joinery, some woodworkers have balked at using the technique for projects. Nowadays, the dedicated jigs for drilling pocket holes are very affordable, but reader David Brunson of Loudon, ‘Tennessee, came up with a router table jig, for the same purpose. We tweaked his idea to get the design shown, ‘The jg is simply a plywood platform supported on wedge-shaped runners cut at 215° angle. One runner has bottom clea that rides in the miter gage slot of the router table and is controled by a sopblock. This keeps the jig tracking in a straight line when routing leting you Werkpiece Wx EH, wood soron NP estas, eas countersunk sandpaper ox 12x 12 plywood “Thi ogo i es in ‘outer abe Sot. x S16x 99" stock — ‘Stopblackin ss 108 Ips lower end ot stand clamp sop mitor Sfoove oF ho tale. Use te Bor tr hol. ‘make functional pockets. The hollow split-pring pin allows you to dil the centered plot holes for serews. ‘On the jigs Iower end, a wood fence acts as both a rest to locate the workpioce and a guide for drilling. Sandpaper and a toggle clamp grip the workpiece ‘The pocket itself is cut with 2% Mark or location of pocket (centerine). *Post-hancle lamp OD. x40" 1D, spltepang pin straight router bit. Simply raise the bit to 114" above the table surface, and slowly feed the jig, high end frst, toward the cut- ter It will plow into the underside of the platform and then emerge through the top. When the leading edge ofthe bit ‘meets the index line marked % from the fence, shut off the router. Then clamp a stopblock in the miter gauge slot. Before unclamping the workpicce, dell 152" hole through the metal guide (the 4-O.D. split-spring pin) inthe fence, and into the workpiece. Project Design: Dawid Brunson; Jan Svee Svtratone Roxanne LeMoin Pratap Jin Downing DRILL-PRESS DETAIL | Dripress i. we bt lence Dill before fassomoly 15° beveled edge down fa router jig A specialist at through or stopped dadoes and grooves. ‘There are only afew things that ean go r ‘wrong when you're routing dadoes for shelves. Unfortunately, most f them ruin the job, so one of our contributing crafts- mea, Exv Roberts, designed a router jig thas easy to align and cuts the exact thickness ofthe shelf. Best of al, the Se Ae router ean wander away from the fence . while you're working—without ruining the job. J ut ‘The secret is a flush-trimming pattem y e bic with a bearing above the cues. As ned, but has two fences. IP your router ‘you guide the bt along a fence, the cut is wanders away from one, the other keeps directly below the hearing—one edge of you from routing outside your layout re the cut automatically falls exactly along lines, Begin by laying out both sides of the front ofthe fence. Erv’s jig uses a the dado. Clamp the jis fixed fence over router bit marower than the dado you ‘one of the layout lines, then slip a serap | 4x2% x 10" stock stoPs EXPLODED VIEW ¥e catiage bolt rep rence — },cgian oxi 30" stock" 2°9) eet | x2 x 12" stock ‘ kayo slot (Guin 2passes)| ga aye \ wood sore MOVABLE FENCE | Sang '¥e20 barrel nut hs hole ve nut i wing xX 2H" sock Max 218 xT" sok ie wea MOVABLE FENCE DETAIL on woodentine.com Of shelf stock between the fied and movable fences, Tum the wing nuts 10 snug the movable fence against the stock, and clamp it in place. Remove the scrap, ‘To make the cut, guide the bearing along ‘one fence, then the other, clockwise. To imake a stopped dado, use the optional T- shaped stops. Most ofthe jig serews together. Make the movable fence from two pieces, as shown in the detail. Slip the bolts through the holes in the narrow piece, then glue the wo pieces togetter, To form the shouldered keyhole slot in the fixed fence, dill the 4" end holes, then rout the 942" slot with a "bit chucked in your table-mounted router. Now, centering a 24° bit on the end holes, rout ¥is'-deep shoulder inthe fence’s bottom face. The end holes et you add and remove the stops without taking off the wing nuts. Do you need to rout a dovetail or key hole slot? Simply installa guide bushing Jn your router subbase, and adjust the ‘movable fence to the bushing’s diameter. Buying Guide Connector bolts (3” length no. O6K9%0, 450/10 pack) and cross dowel (no. (06K70, $2.99/10 pack) are available from ‘Wooderaf. Call 800/225-1153. Pattern bits are available from Eagle America in various sizes. Call the company at 800/872-2511 for a catalog. eter by Jett Day Project alg: Erv Robots ieseatiors: Roxanne LeMene; Lerma Johnson Photon: Marty Ban 109 exact-width dado jig Make your shelves a perfect match with a basic shop aid. Here’s a jg for routing bookcase or cabinet- side dadoes that exactly match the thickness of your shelf stock, Better yet, no special bits are needed, Just use an ordinary straight bit and guide bushing. (We used a 1" guide bushing and a 14" straight bit) To start, eut a 2" rabbet 34" deep along the inside edge of both guide rails (A). Then complet the jg as shown inthe Adjusting the Jig drawing, To customize the rails for a different bushing sand bit install them in your router and tim the protruding lip ofthe rabbet in the guide nals, where shown in the Dadoing detail below. The remaining lip will now match yur bushingbit combo. ‘To adjust the jig forthe exact width of your shelf stock, slip the jg over the shelf Stock, where shown in the Adjusting the Jig drawing. Pull the guide cals (A) tighaly against the stock, and tighten the wing nuts Slip the jig off the stock, and clamp the jig ‘onto the piece being dadoed, centering the ‘opening between the rails (A) over the ‘marked dado on the side panel, Adjust the

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