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ACARA II
PHYSICAL OCEANOGRAPHY

Basic Concept

Physical oceanographers study the relationship between the oceans

physical properties, the atmosphere, and the seafloor and coast. They
investigate ocean temperature, density, waves, tides, and currents. They
also focus on how the ocean interacts with Earths atmosphere to produce
our weather and climate systems.

How and why ocean currents flow, air-sea interactions such as the
generation of waves by wind.

Oceanography covers

Physical properties of the ocean:

Dissolved materials: minerals and salts (salinity) and gases
Properties that change with depth: light, temperature and pressure
Motion: Waves, tides, currents

Salinity
Result of weathering of rocks on land carried by rivers to the
ocean
Materials from the earths interior
Hydrothermal vents
Volcanic eruptions
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Material in Sea water

Oceans have an average salinity of 3.5% or 35 ppt (35 )
ppt= parts per thousand
More than 70 elements in seawater but the main ones

Pressure

We are under 1 atmosphere (atm) of pressure on land.

Water is heavier than air so
every 10 m deep = 1 more
atm of pressure

Water Depth vs Light

Photosynthetic organisms use light to make sugars.
Sunlit area (top 100 meters) contains 90% of marine life
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Colors of penetrate thru water differently

Red light filters out first and blue light goes the furthest
Red animals are essentially invisible in deep waters

Animal Adaptations and Temperature

Colder temps reduce the metabolic rate

In very cold waters fish have a special protein like antifreeze
to keep tissues from freezing
Lighter colored animals stay cooler than darker colored
animals and are found in warmer waters
Some marine life have thick layers of fat to insulate their
bodies

Motion in the OceanTides

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Marine Life
and Tides

Some marine life time their

reproduction to the high or low tide cycle
Horseshoe crabs come ashore to mate on the night of a high tide in
May
Eggs hatch 2 wks later on a high tide and are washed into the
ocean

Motion in the OceanWaves

Winds produce waves as it blows across the oceans surface
When waves enter shallow water they drag along the ocean floor
The wave top is moving faster than the wave bottom so it topples
forward
Specialty waves: rogue waves, tidal waves and tsunamis
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Motion in the Ocean-Currents

Important in Rivers of water moving through the ocean
Surface currents caused by major wind belts
Deflected by the Coriolis Effect
moving marine life and nutrients around the oceans
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Vertical Ocean Currents

Differences in temperature and salinity change the density of water.
This causes sinking and rising of water in the ocean
Ocean conveyor belt- convection current of water moving between
the equator and poles in the oceans

Takes 1600 years to cycle

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ACARA II

PHYSICAL PARAMETER

Physical oceanographers study the relationship between the oceans

physical properties, the atmosphere, and the seafloor and coast. They
investigate ocean temperature, density, waves, tides, and currents. They
also focus on how the ocean interacts with Earths atmosphere to produce
our weather and climate systems.
http://oceanservice.noaa.gov/facts/oceanographer.html

Objetives

Students can get to know the physical conditions and physical

processes within the ocean such as temperature, waves, currents,
and tides; the transport of sand on and off beaches; coastal
erosion; and the interactions of the atmosphere and the ocean.
Students can explain the ocean-atmosphere relationship that
influences weather and climate, the transmission of light and sound
through water, and the ocean's interactions with its boundaries at
the sea floor and the coast.
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Location Area :

Pantai Punaga dan

Pantai Puntondo,
Kecamatan
Mangarabombang,
Takalar,
Sulawesi Selatan

A. Temperature

Basic Concept
The temperature of the ocean, especially the surface, varies from place to
place and from season to season. Ocean temperature depends on the
amount of solar energy absorbed.
Tropical oceans receive a lot of direct overhead sunlight for much of the
year, so the water is warm. Summer is the only time polar regions receive
sunlight, and even then, it is never directly overhead, so water in these
places tends to be cold. The amount of sunlight that hits the temperate
regions (between the tropics and the poles) varies between summer and
winter. The variation in solar energy absorbed means that the ocean
surface can vary in temperature from a warm 30C in the tropics to a very
cold -2C near the poles.
The temperature of the ocean also varies from top to bottom, giving a
vertical structure to most of the ocean. There is an upper layer of water, up
to 200m deep, that is warmed by the Sun and has the same temperature
from top to bottom. Below that is a layer called the thermocline, reaching
down in places to 1000m, which is colder at the bottom than at the top.
The deep ocean below the thermocline, making up 80% of the ocean, is
the same very cold temperature throughout.
https://www.sciencelearn.org.nz/resources/707-ocean-temperature
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Some properties of water change with temperature:

Cold water is denser than warm water, so it tends to sink.
Cold water holds more dissolvable gases, such as carbon dioxide
Water temperature can affect the productivity of organisms living in it.
Ocean temperature layers

The ocean has 3 main

temperature layers. The
upper (warm) and deep (cold)
layers have the same
temperature throughout.
Between is the thermocline,
which is warmer at the top
than the bottom.

Water expands when it warms

up heat energy makes its
molecules move around more and take up more space. Because the
molecules are more spread out, the density goes down. When water
cools, it contracts and becomes denser.

Temperature and salinity both affect the density of water, resulting in water
moving up or down through the ocean layers and moving as currents
around the ocean.

Objetives

Students can get to know how to get data temperature in the

coastal
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Students can explain temperature condition in this area

Equipment and materials,

Sea water sample
Thermoter Hg
GPS
Satelit Map of Indonesia Ocean
Alat tulis menulis

Prosedure,

Data Analysis
- Create table
- Insert data in table
- Analysis Temperature

Selang Waktu
Suhu
Pengukuran

12.00 31
13.00 30
14.00

Result
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Hasil pengukuran dari koordinat () didapatkan perubahan suhu tiap jam.

B. Current

Basic Concept
The term "current" describes the motion of the ocean.

Ocean currents are driven by wind, water density differences, and tides.

Oceanic currents describe the movement of water from one location to

another. Currents are generally measured in meters per second or in knots
(1 knot = 1.85 kilometers per hour or 1.15 miles per hour). Oceanic
currents are driven by three main factors:

1. The rise and fall of the tides. Tides create a current in the oceans,
which are strongest near the shore, and in bays and estuaries along the
coast. These are called "tidal currents." Tidal currents change in a very
regular pattern and can be predicted for future dates. In some locations,
strong tidal currents can travel at speeds of eight knots or more.

2. Wind. Winds drive currents that are at or near the ocean's surface.
Near coastal areas winds tend to drive currents on a localized scale and
can result in phenomena like coastal upwelling. On a more global scale, in
the open ocean, winds drive currents that circulate water for thousands of
miles throughout the ocean basins.

3. Thermohaline circulation. This is a process driven by density

differences in water due to temperature (thermo) and salinity (haline)
variations in different parts of the ocean. Currents driven by thermohaline
circulation occur at both deep and shallow ocean levels and move much
slower than tidal or surface currents.

Currents affect the Earth's climate by driving warm water from the Equator
and cold water from the poles around the Earth. The warm Gulf Stream,
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for instance, brings milder winter weather to Bergen, Norway, than to New
York, much further south.

Current Velocity
Ocean currents are expressed as velocity vectors (often denoted by ),
either by giving a speed and
direction or by giving two
perpendicular components,
for example east-west (u)
and north-south (v) or
along-shore and cross-
shore flow.

Other components, such as tangential and perpendicular to a boundary,

may also be used so be sure you understand how the velocity is being
represented. Speed is commonly expressed in units of cm/s, m/s, or knots.
A knot is a nautical mile per hour. 1 kt = 51.44 cm/s. Current directions are
generally expressed as the direction towards which the current is flowing,
as opposed to winds, which are named by the direction they are coming
from. So an easterly current is flowing towards the east, whereas an
easterly wind is blowing from the east. To avoid confusion, it is
recommended that current directions be expressed unambiguously with
the suffix "ward" attached, for example an eastward current flows toward
the east and a poleward flows toward the north pole in the northern
hemisphere or towards the south pole in the southern hemisphere.

Two different types of velocity fields are used in oceanography, Eulerian

and Lagrangian. The first refers to the velocity as it would be measured
over time at a number of fixed points in space. Streamlines are lines which
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at any given time are tangent to the Eulerian velocity. Current meters on a
mooring measure the Eulerian velocity for example (see left panel of figure
below). The Lagrangian velocity describes the paths that water parcels
would follow over time. A perfect water-following drifter (right panel of
figure below) would measure the Lagrangian velocity.
http://oceanservice.noaa.gov/facts/current.html

Objetives
Students can get to know how to get data current on the coastal
Students can explain current velocity condition in this are

Equipment and materials,

Sea water sample

Stopwatch
Botol air mineral
Kompas Geologi
Tali Rafia
GPS
Satelit Map of Indonesia Ocean
Alat tulis menulis

Prosedure,
Data Analysis
- Create table
- Insert data in table
- Calculate current velocity

Selang Waktu Panjang tali Waktu

s
Pengukuran (s) (t)
V=
t
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12.00 5 25,66 0,195

12.15
12.30

Result
Hasil pengukuran dari koordinat ()
didapatkan kecepatan arus 0,195
m/detik.

C. Water Transparency

Basic Concept
Transparency of water relates to the depth that light will penetrate water.
The transmission of light into a body of water is extremely important since
the sun is the primary source of energy for all biological phenomena. Light
is necessary for photosynthesis, a process that produces oxygen and food
for consumers. It is common practice for biologists to consider the depth of
the euphotic zone (the upper layers of a body of water into which sufficient
light penetrates to permit growth of green plants) to be 2.7 times (roughly
3 times) the limit of visibility. As light penetrates water, it becomes
attenuated and altered in its spectral composition. The change that occurs
is from predominantly yellow light at the surface to blue-green at depth in
clear water or yellow-green in waters having a high concentration of
dissolved organic material.
Transparency readings in oligotrophic or low nutrient lakes are often
greater than 15 feet (5 meters) whereas eutrophic or nutrient rich lakes
have readings less than 7.5 feet (2.5 meters). Water clarity is related to
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amounts of suspended particles (turbidity) as well as amounts of

phytoplankton and zooplankton.
https://www.gvsu.edu/wri/education/instructors-manual-water-
transparency-8.htm
Water transparency, Corresponding to the intuitive idea of transparency,
we can relate it as a measure of the depth of light penetration into the
water. Water transparency depends on the amount of particles in the
water. Particles can be inorganic (e.g. sediment from erosion) or organic
(such as algae, phytoplankton). During the light propagation in the water,
the light attenuates due to absorption and dispersion of these particles
until completely disappearing. The extinction depth depends on optical
phenomena such as absorption or scattering of light caused by the
presence of different components in the water, the presence of algae that
absorb light for photosynthesis or the presence of dissolved matter and
zooplankton that scatter the light.
These different components (phytoplankton, zooplankton, sediment,
organic matter...) are what are called optically active components and their
distribution can greatly vary over space and time. For example, large
accumulations of these components make the light rapidly absorbed and
thus unable to reach greater depths.

Figure 1. The different paths of the light in the wate

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In other words, the less particles, the more water transparency.

It can be intuitively understood that an increase of suspended matter that
can be caused by an alga bloom or by an increased sediment discharge
from the river in the water implies less light penetration into the water,
affecting the lives of many marine communities.
Objetives
Students can get to know how to get data water transparancy on
the coastal
Students can explain water transparancy sea water color
difference

Equipment and materials,

Secchi disk
Tongkat skala
Tali Rafia
GPS
Satelit Map of Indonesia Ocean
Alat tulis menulis

Prosedure,
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Data Analysis
- Create table
- Insert data in table
-

Calculate
velocity water transparancy
Selang Waktu D1 (cm) D2 (cm) D1D 2
D=
Pengukuran/ jam 2

12.00 355 303 329

13.00
14.00
15.00 340 303 321,5

Result
Hasil pengukuran dari koordinat () didapatkan tingkat kecerahan 329
pada pukul 12.00 dan 321,5 pada pukul 15.00 yang menandakan
intensitas matahari setiap perubahan jam semakin besar.
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D. Waves

Basic Consept
Waves are created by energy passing through water, causing it to move in
a circular motion.
The ocean is never still. Whether observing from the beach or a boat, we
expect to see waves on the horizon. Waves are created by energy passing
through water, causing it to move in a circular motion. However, water
does not actually travel in waves. Waves transmit energy, not water,
across the ocean and if not obstructed by anything, they have the potential
to travel across an entire ocean basin.
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Waves are most commonly caused by wind. Wind-driven waves,

or surface waves, are created by the friction between wind and surface
water. As wind blows across the surface of the ocean or a lake, the
continual disturbance creates a wave crest. These types of waves are
found globally across the open ocean and along the coast.
More potentially hazardous waves can be caused by severe weather, like
a hurricane. The strong winds and pressure from this type of severe storm
causes storm surge, a series of long waves that are created far from shore
in deeper water and intensify as they move closer to land. Other
hazardous waves can be caused by underwater disturbances that displace
large amounts of water quickly such as earthquakes, landslides, or
volcanic eruptions. These very long waves are called tsunamis. Storm
surge and tsunamis are not the types of waves you imagine crashing
down on the shore. These waves roll upon the shore like a massive sea
level rise and can reach far distances inland.
The gravitational pull of the sun and moon on the earth also causes
waves. These waves are tides or, in other words, tidal waves. It is a
common misconception that a tidal wave is also a tsunami. The cause of
tsunamis are not related to tide information at all but can occur in any tidal
state.
http://oceanservice.noaa.gov/facts/wavesinocean.html
Wave Characteristics
Characteristics that all waves have in common are wavelength, amplitude
and frequency. Apart from these properties, different types of waves have
a number of varying characteristics. A wave is defined as a repetitive
disturb ance traveling through a medium going from one location to
another.
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Objetives

Students can get to know how to get data

wave on the coastal
S
tu
d
ents can explain and
to compute wave
characteristic

Equipment and materials,

Palm Ukur
Stopwatch

Prosedure
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Data Analysis
- Create table
- Insert data in table
- Calculate velocity wave

Puncak Lembah
Nomor Selisih = puncak - lembah
(cm) (cm)

I 115 107 8
II 122 105 17
III 122 102 20
Selisih
Tinggi Gelombang Rata - Rata jumlah gelombang = 15 cm
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Pengukura Periode
Periode Rata Rata = jumlah gelombang
n Ke..

I 6
II 7 7,3
III 10

Result
Hasil pengukuran dari koordinat () didapatkan Tinggi Gelombang Rata
rata 15 cm dengan periode 7,3.

E. TIDES

The word 'tides' is a generic term used to define the alternating rise and
fall in sea level with respect to the land, produced by the gravitational
attraction of the moon and the sun. ( Our Restless Tides). Tides contribute
greatly to variability in velocity, density and pressure (or sea level). This is
particularly true for sea level, which is largely tidal.
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Barotropic tidal currents are the periodic water motions

accompanying the tidal changes in sea level. Tidal currents flowing over
topography in a stratified ocean can give rise to tidal period oscillations in
isopycnals, known as internal, or baroclinic, tides. Internal tidal currents
cause flow to be in different directions at different depths. The upper part
of the following schematic of a two-layer ocean depicts a barotropic wave;
the lower part depicts a baroclinic wave. The direction of flow and the
relative velocities of the two layers are shown at the crests and troughs.
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In some regions, the currents associated with internal tides may be much
stronger than the currents associated with the surface, or barotropic, tide.
The internal tidal currents may not be in phase with the barotropic tidal
currents. Because of this it may not always be true that surface currents
are flowing toward shore during rising, or flood tides, and conversely
surface currents may not always be flowing out towards deeper water
during falling, or ebb, tides.
Tidal currents contribute to mixing, in some cases dominating it, and thus
influence distribution of water properties including sound speed. The
variations in depth in coastal areas can result in variations in tidal mixing
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which can lead to formation of fronts. Residual, or mean, circulations can

be generated through interaction of tides with topography.

A depiction of the three primary

kinds of tides. From the top
panel downward they are
semidiurnal, mixed, and
diurnal. Standard tidal
terminology is used to describe
the various aspects of the tides.
The zero on these graphs is
illustrative of the relationship of
the tides to Mean Sea Level
(MSL). From NOS Tidal
Datums pub.

Various other parameters of the moon's orbit around the earth and the
earth's orbit around the sun give rise to other tidal frequencies, or
constituents, and add complexity to the tidal signal. The amplitude of the
equilibrium tide for each tidal constituent is known for any point on the
earth. To predict the actual tidal variations in sea level at any location, the
amplitude and phase, also known as the tidal constants, for the tidal
constituents, or components, must be known. These can be determined
from a long (best if greater than 1 year) time series of measured sea level,
or alternatively from a numerical model.

Each tidal constituent is designated by a name and a symbol. Tidal

constituents are generally grouped by their period and fall into one of four
categories:
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1. Overtides: these have periods shorter than 9 hours and are caused
by nonlinear interactions of the other tidal constituents and
bathymetry. They are most common in estuaries and very shallow
water. Their symbols have subscripts like 4 or 6, meaning there are
approximately 4 or 6 cycles per day.
2. Semidiurnal: these have periods close to 12 hours, and their
symbols have the subscript 2, for 2 cycles per day.
3. Diurnal: these have periods close to 24 hours, and their symbols
have the subscript 1.
4. Low frequency: these have periods of days to years. There is no
special pattern to their symbols.

The character of the tidal sea level variations at any given location is
determined by the relative amplitudes (sizes) and phases (timing) of these
different constituents. This is illustrated in the figure below and at the
following web site: http://www.ams.org/featurecolumn/archive/tideslll3.html

Objetives

Students can get to know how to get data tides on the coast
Students can explain and to compute wave characteristic

Equipment and materials,

Tide Staff/Palm Ukur

Waterpass/Theodolith
Pengukur waktu

Prosedure

Data Analysis
- Create table
- Insert data in table
- Calculate tide velocity/hour
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Selang Waktu Skala awal Skala akhir T T 1T 0

=
Pengukuran/ jam (T0 ) cm (T1 ) cm T T

12.00 40
13.00
14.00
15.00 80 10

Result
Hasil pengukuran dari koordinat () didapatkan kecepatan pasang surut
adalah 10 cm/4 jam.