I

n memory of a man we all loved, learned from and looked up to, Bob Nueske, who passed away unexpectedly two years ago.
I miss his positive, supportive, quality-focused presence every day. We had the pleasure of having him at Camp Bacon a couple of
times, and I know he was looking forward to returning for a third visit the year he passed. His spirit is the "smoke" that permeates
Camp Bacon now every spring. You cant see it, but you can always sense the difference!
Camp Bacon was a life-changing experience
for me because of the time, the place, the
Over the last eight years, Camp Bacon has become one of my favorite events of our year here at Zingermans. And with each year that people, the talk and the energy. I have since
we do itthis will be our 8th annualmy affection for it grows, the connection with the campers grows stronger, the presentations get become great friends with some of the other
more interesting, the food gets better, the bacons get...well, everythings already better with bacon! What makes Camp Bacon so special?
speakers and participants. When you share
the common passion for bacon that we all
1. Better Bacon! 4. Good Cause have, whether it is with spaghetti or in a
This is the driving force here, right? Each year, attendees get to Camp Bacon is a fundraiser and proceeds go to a pair of good
eat and enjoy pork in over a dozen different forms in the course causes. First up is Southern Foodways Alliance. SFA has been drink or any other preparation, we were
of a couple of days! Smoked bacon, unsmoked bacon, pork loin, actively educating, connecting, cultivating and cooking up won- all there without any preconceived biases
ham, salami, sausage...theres pork in all sizes, shapes, flavors derful stews of Southern culture for nearly 20 years now. Here and with extremely open minds, stomachs
and levels of smokiness and spiciness. Its pretty much a sure at Zingermans, weve learned an enormous amount about food,
and heartsI think being surrounded by
thing that youll taste any number of delicious pieces of pork that culture, and history from the wonderful folks who make it all
youve not previously tried. happen down at SFA world headquarters in Oxford, Mississippi. like-minded people on the most wonderful
Great films, great writing, great friendships, great parties (and farm I have ever been in the US, I felt I was
yes, lots of great pork) have all come from our SFA connection. with a family more than a group of friends
2. Great Learning We also use Camp Bacon to raise some money for the local 4-H
and unknown people. You have all created
The way I see it, learning is to intellectual life or the brain what which has been encouraging and educating kids about agricul-
bacon is to the palate. Pretty much everything goes better when ture in the US for many decades. If kids dont take to small scale a Think Tank that goes beyond words.
theres good learning going on! For me, the chance to learn from farming and livestock raising, then well be leaving the future of I can't wait to return! GRAZIE!"
such a fabulous array of fascinating speakers is something spe- food to industrial agriculture.
cial. This year is loaded with lively, engaging presenters, all of
whom know a whole lot more about pork, the world, and life in 5. One of a Kind -Rolando
general, than I do. Which is why I always leave the Main Event Our friends at the Positive Organizational Scholarship section A long time importer
with a brain thats as happily stuffed as my belly! of the University of Michigan Ross School of Business have a of some of the fin-
little saying I love: Excellence is a function of uniqueness. Camp est artisan offerings
Bacon is one of many things around these parts that fits both bills. from Italy, and
3. Cool Campers Theres nothing else like this special event combining learning, author of the soon
Over the years, weve built a long list of loyal campers, many fun, great eating, and curated conversation all around the single to be released book
of whom now plan their annual Camp Bacon pilgrimage well in subject of cured pork! Camp Bacon wont change the world on its Autentico.
advance! For many folks, the connections they have built up have own, but its sure a good start in the direction of doing the right
turned into lifelong friendships. Just the way it was going to sum- thing, eating well, good dining, and good dialogue.
mer camp! The time at Camp may pass quickly; the bonds and rela-
tionships that come from it carry forward for many years to come.

Burgers Smokehouse
AN INTERVIEW WITH STEVEN BURGER

A FAMILY BUSINESS BUILT ON COUNTRY HAMS

B
ased in Missouri, Burgers Smokehouse is a four-generations-deep family business thats been specializing in pork since 1952. You might
have read about the company in Zingermans Guide to Better Bacon, where Ari professed a fondness for Burgers old-style country hams,
which are dry-cured with salt, black pepper and brown sugar, and smoked over hickory wood for about 12 hours. Steven Burger, the
companys president, spoke with us about his companys legacy, and hes also flying all the way here to speak at Camp Bacons Main Event and Bacon
Ball. Dont miss your chance to meet him and his hickory-smoked bacon!

Zingermans:
Why did your grandfather go from
farming to producing country ham?
Steven Burger: Well, actually, my grandfather was
curing hams much like many farmers in this area
were back at that time. Curing country ham was
much like putting out a gardenit was just a way
of life, a way of having a food supply in rural
Missouri back before refrigeration. Really, the
country ham business, as a commercial enter-
prise, gradually emerged over many, many years.
As people moved off the farm into the bigger
towns around Central Missouri, he gained a
reputation for doing a good job curing country
ham, so he would have people asking about
buying hams. He realized he could make more
money curing and selling ham than he could out
of the whole hog, so that became the economic
motivation for continuing. Then in 1952, the busi-
ness had surpassed what he could cure in the
farm buildings, and thats when he built our ham
Z: Your grandfather learned curing from his
mother, who was German, so this was a tradition
that was passed down in your family.
SB: It essentially came through our German
ancestry. The curing techniques that came from
my German great-grandparents that settled in
the late 1800s.
Z:Youre the third generation. Why has it been
important for you to stay in the family business?
SB: I came out of college in the mid 1980s, and at
the time, the business was a good deal smaller
than it is now, but I was raised in the company
and spent many summers and Christmas holiday
breaks working in the company, so it was some-
thing I was very familiar with. When I graduated
college, it was just a natural progression to come
right on home and begin working.
SB: Well, maintaining high-quality, niche markets
is kind of a fun end of the business to be in
because much of the success of our company is
on telling our story, and a lot of that has to do
with rich tradition with roots that go back to
Europe and carrying forward curing techniques
that have really been around for thousands of
years. Being able to continue that story here in
the United States is certainly a fulfilling part of
the business to be in.
Z:Youre the third generation. Is there a fourth
generation coming into the business?
SB: Well, we now have rules for coming into
the family business that requires outside work
experience. Every generation has to build sets
of rules that are appropriate to that generation
in order to continue keeping the company in the
family. We felt it was important a generation ago,
after our generation came in, that if the company
bers of the fourth generation] that are here have
met their educational and work requirements
and have come in and currently playing very
valuable roles in the company.
Z:Why is the apostrophe at the end of Burgers
Smokehouse? Why not Burgers Smokehouse?
SB: That was because of my grandfather. He only
went to school through the eighth grade, but
his understanding of English was if he put the
apostrophe before the "s" that meant it was his
smokehouse, exclusively. But putting the apos-
trophe after the s, it was inclusive, and so its
Burgers Smokehouse, meaning its all of the
familys. It was his way of saying it wasnt only his
smokehouse but was the whole familys. Whether
thats totally grammatically correct is beside the
point, he wanted to make sure that he communi-
cated it was the entire familys that was involved

Burgers Smokehouse
house. That became the nucleus of the modern Z: Why has maintaining the older food tradi- gets biggerwhich it hasand more complicated,
AN INTERVIEW WITH STEVEN BURGER
country ham businessthat first building is still
tions of producing country hams continued to be then its really going to benefit our family and the and not just him.
part of the plant here, but the rest of the plant important to you? business to get more outside experience before
has kind of grown around it. even being eligible to come in. The four [mem- TO READ THE REST OF THIS INTERVIEW,
PLEASE VISIT ZCOB.ME/BSCB

A FAMILY BUSINESS BUILT ON COUNTRY HAMS

ISSUE # 260 MAY-JUN 2017
1
T
ruth is that the work of the Southern Foodways Alliance is so good that wed pretty surely donate to support their cause even if wed gotten nothing out of knowing them. They make a
really positive difference in the Southand really around the countryto spread the word about the history and foodways, the otherwise nearly untold stories of Southern food and
culture. But the truth is that weve gotten a lot more than just good learning. SFA has led us to good friends, fine sources for artisan foods, and a whole lot of good food, much of which
Can I prove the point? Absolutely! If they come to any part of the Zingermans Community of Businesses, Ann Arborites are literally eating the evidence nearly every day. The impact has been
especially strong at the Roadhouse, where we specialize in traditional American food. But SFAs influence appears all over our organization. If youre a Zingermans regular, youll likely have
eaten something delicious that came from our SFA connection. Heres a terrifically tasty list!
Pulled pork at the Roadhouse
Ours was gleaned from Mr. Ed Mitchell, who taught us his Eastern
North Carolina-style, vinegar sauced, whole-hog barbecue. He
even came up to Ann Arbor to help Chef Alex build the pit at the
Roadhouse!
Pimento cheese
Its hard to imagine Zingermans anymore without pimento cheese.
Its everywherein our catalogue, at the Deli, the Bakehouse, and
the Creamery. But its only in the last decade that this Southern
specialty arrived here in Ann Arbor. While clearly a few former
Southerners (or folks with Southern roots) here in town were
already well aware of pimento cheese long before we started
making it (first at the Roadhouse, then at the Deli and Creamery),
there werent a whole lot of them. I discovered pimento cheese
at lunch one day at an SFA symposium. Before that I was clueless. I
set about coming up with a recipe that would do what we so often
do heretake everyday foods that most folks make with middling
ingredients, significantly up the quality of the raw materials, and
come out of it with something super special. Today, we sell hun-
dreds of pounds of this Southern specialty and ship it from our
Mail Order all over the countryincluding many locations that
are solidly south of the Mason-Dixon line.
Anson Mills
Grits, polenta, cornmeal, Carolina Gold rice, Jefferson Red rice,
Sea Island red peas, and so much more! Its hard to imagine the
Roadhouse and the Deli without Anson Mills today. Every single
item we get from Glenn Roberts and his crew is amazing. Mind-
blowingly good. If youve eaten any of them, you know what
Im talking about. If you havent, please come by the Deli or the
Roadhouse for a taste of the Carolina white grits! Or if youre
at the Roadhouse, get some of the Carolina Gold rice. Or come
on Thursday mornings for the old-school Cornmeal Mush on the
Breakfast Blue Plate Special.
All of Glenns grains are centuries-old heirlooms where flavor
came before finance. Pretty much all of them bordered on extinc-
tion but have been brought back to culinary prominence through
the steady, determined work that Glenn and everyone in the
Anson Mills crew have been doing for nearly two decades now. All
are certified organic, all are fieldripened, all are cold-stone milled
to avoid any heat damage to the delicate flavors of the grains; all
are milled just before shipping to approximate the exceptional
flavors of new crop corn, rice or beans. Like most new crop arriv-
als, theres just more vitality, complexity, a certain liveliness
that comes with freshly milled grains. Same goes for just-picked
produce, new crop coffees and teas, etc. If you like great rice,
grits, polenta or cornmeal, I can pretty much guarantee that you
will never willingly go back to commercial offerings after youve
tasted these. Theyre seriously that good!
22 ISSUE # 260 MAY-JUN 2017
we serve every day across our organization.
Benton,s Bacon
Allan Benton cures and
smokes his amazing country
bacon on the far eastern end
of the state of Tennessee, just on the
edge of the town of Madisonville. Allans bacon
and his country ham are truly exceptional. As is he! I think hes
one of the kindest, gentlest food artisans Ive ever met. While
Allan is almost unassuming in his modesty, his bacon is big, bold,
and smoky. A stand alone slice if Ive ever had one. His uncooked,
long-cured, smoked-for-three-days-over-hickory, smoked bacon
is fantastic; impossible to forget once youve tried it. Bentons
country hamwhich we get regularly at the Deliis exceptional in
its own right. Cut into thin slices and savored as an appetizer or as
a healthy, delicious and pork-happy bit of protein to accompany
a summer salad. A mainstay of our very large selection of
bacons, for those who like their flavors
on the bold and smoky side of things,
Bentons is pretty unforgettable.
Charles Poirier,s old school cane syrup
One of the most delicious things Ive eaten in ages. This is cane
syrup made the traditional way, by Charles Poirier, with help from
his two young sons, on his property outside Lafayette, Louisiana.
Charles is making cane syrup the way it would have been done 150
years ago. He grows his own cane, hand harvests it, crushes, and
then boils it, and makes his own fantastic syrup. Its really amazing!
Outstanding with everything from biscuits to baked beans, pan-
cakes to porridge, coffee drinks to glazed carrots. Its especially
good, too, with bourbon!
Potlikker Fish Stew
This has become one of my favorite foods at the Roadhouse. But
it wasnt until I went to SFA that I had any idea what potlikker
was really about. Wed been long-cooking collard greens since we
opened the Roadhouse in 2003, so wed had plenty of potlikker
from the get go. But it was only a few years later that I learned
about its emotional, nutritional and culinary significance. Putting
together the idea of poaching fish in potlikker and then serving it
over those amazing grits from Anson Mills came to me later. Its a
terrific dish, which, in hindsight, turns out to be very West African
in style as well.
Nashville Hot Chicken
We only make this on Tuesday evenings at the Roadhouse but it
has a LOT of loyal fans. Many folks come nearly weekly to enjoy
the slow burn you get while you eat it. I learned about it only
when I went on an SFA field trip to Nashville one year and had
the chance to visit Princes, the home of Nashville Hot Chicken. Joe
Yorks incredible little film on hot chicken cemented the images in
my mind forever. If you like it hot (like I do), come by on Tuesday
night and try it out!
Sorghum syrup
Down South, they generally refer to the syrup as sorghum
molasses, or just shorten it down to molasses. The latter had
me confused for a long time because I didnt realize that folks
were referring to a wholly different product than the sugar cane
molasses that I was familiar with. Sorghum syrup is a bit lighter
and brighter with a lovingly sourish hook to it that you might
not even notice if I didnt mention it. Its primarily a crop of the
upper South; Kentucky and Tennessee make the most. Production
was much higher a hundred fifty years ago when locals relied on
sorghum molasses for their everyday eating. Back then, sugar was
very costly, so other than honey, sorghum molasses was what you
had to work with. In the hills, folks seem to have used it for most
everything, including a considerable amount of moonshine.
Compared to the light golden majesty of maple syrup up here in
the upper Midwest, sorghum syrup is dark and rather mysteri-
ous looking, kind of uninviting, actually, to the uninitiated. But
underneath that surface level stuff, sorghum syrup is sweet and
rich and something you might want to seriously consider get-
ting into your regular eating routines. The most popular way to
eat sorghum syrup is to put it on biscuits, which is how we offer
it at the Roadhouse. Former Governor of Georgia, Zell Miller,
who grew up on sorghum, says in Joe Dabneys superb book,
Smokehouse Ham, Spoon Bread and Scuppernong Wine, that you
start by putting a good bit of butter on a warm plate, then pour
on the syrup, then mix with a fork till the mixture looks a lot
like cake batter. Then you drizzle the mixture over pancakes or
biscuits, or corn bread. In Memphis, they taught me to just pour
the sorghum straight onto the biscuits. Either is good, so try both
of them out for yourself. Its excellent over ice cream, on French
toast, pancakes or really just
about anything youd use
maple syrup for. Its fan-
tastic, too, on cornmeal
mushthe porridge we
make from the amazing
cornmeal we get from
Anson Mills. You can
try it every week at the
Roadhouse as part of
the Thursday morning
Breakfast Blue Plate
special.
Feelin' t
about N he burn? Learn
ash mor
at zcob.mville Hot Chicke e
e/nhchic n
ken
 2017 Camp Bacon Lineup
Lineup
WEDNESDAY THURSDAY
BAKIN WITH BACON BAKE! CLASS THE ANNUAL BACON BALL BACON BEAUTIFUL MUSIC
CAMP BACON FOOD FILM FESTIVAL Thursday, June 1, 5:30pm-9:30pm Thursday, June 1, 7pm Thursday, June 1st, 2017
Wednesday, May 31, 6pm-9pm OR Friday, June 2, 1pm-5pm At Zingermans Roadhouse Doors 7:30pm
At Zingermans Greyline At BAKE! $75/person Music 8pm-12am
Price: $35 $125/person Ann Arbor Distilling Company
Camp Bacon welcomes Clark Rachal FREE
The rich traditions and fascinating stories behind We'll be using the power of bacon to from Avoyelles Parish in Louisiana,
beloved Southern woman food makers are captured in flavor three amazing baked goods, all Cajun country, where the art of roasting Musicians, poets and more will take
this incredible collection of short documentaries from in honor of Zingerman's Camp Bacon. pigcalled Cochon de Laitis taken to the stage to entertain all campers!
Southern Foodways Alliance. A wide array of bacon- You'll make a similar version of our to a whole new level. See page 4 for Ann Arbor Distilling Co. has opened
centric snacks (and a few non-bacon, too!) will be peppered bacon farm bread, bacon more information. their doors to us, and will be crafting
served, and beverages (alcoholic and non-alcoholic) will cheddar scones, and bacon pecan the best made-in-Ann Arbor drinks. All
available for purchase. sandy cookies. Then we'll take you to performers have connections to the
hog heaven with a demonstration of Zingermans Community of Businesses,
Doors and cash bar open at 6pm. Program begins at 6:30. our maple-glazed bacon apple dough- and donations will be accepted for
$10 per ticket goes to Southern Foodways Alliance. nuts. Try and contain yourself. Southern Foodways Alliance.

FRIDAY SATURDAY SUNDAY

ZINGERMANS FOOD TOURS: DETROIT
Friday, June 2, 12pm-9:30pm
At various locations
$295/person
Zingermans 8th Annual Camp Bacon
hits the road with Zingermans Food
Tours again this year for a high-ener-
gy tasting jaunt through the markets,
kitchens, and breweries of Detroit. Our
food adventurers will go behind the
scenes to meet the chefs and taste-
makers at the heart of the Motor Citys
vibrant food scene.
THE MAIN EVENT CAMP BACON STREET FAIR
Saturday, June 3, 8am-4pm
Sunday, June 4, 11am-2pm
(breakfast @ 7:30am)
At the Sunday Artisan Market in Kerrytown
At Zingermans Cornman Farms
$195/person
Come on down to the marketjust a block
down from the Deli!to celebrate great
Bacon lovers from around the globe trek to the Camp Bacon Main Event each year to
pork with an array of vendors selling, sam-
meet, eat and share their love of really good cured pork in a day filled with presentations
pling, and showcasing all things bacona
by bacon producers, food experts, and a few fun surprise guests. Our newest attraction
great way to have lunch, sample new bacon
will be a Whole Hog Bacon Raffle with Brian Merkel, this years winner of the Cochon
fares, or just have some fun with bacon-
555 Minneapolis, the ultimate pork cookoff. His founding of Porktown, LLC in Detroit in
based games for kids of all ages. Free
2010 led to many great pop-ups, collaborations and, eventually, his move to butchering
admission, but a donation to Washtenaw
full time at Tullibee. He will show off his craft by raffling off bacon and prime cuts as he
4-H is suggested.
butchers live at the Main Event!

BUY TICKETS AT ZINGERMANSCAMPBACON.COM

2017 Main Event Speakers

Steven Burger:
"Show-Me the Bacon: Our Beginnings in Country Cured Hams
and Keeping the Tradition in Today's Marketplace
Steven Burger is President of Burgers Smokehouse, a 4th gen-
eration family-owned business located in California, Missouri.
Burgers Smokehouse is nationally recognized as a leading pro-
ducer of cured and smoked meat and poultry products sold at
grocery stores, restaurants, and through Zingermans Mail Order.
Ana Cabral:
Toucinho: A Swine Story in Brazil
The Gourmet Specialist and Business Development Director
for Fortune Fish & Gourmet will be sharing her expertise about
bacon in Brazils culinary history and a correlation with Southern
American cuisine. Ana is excited to share some of her Brazilian
heritage with us: Caldinho de Feijo, a black bean stew with
cachaa (Brazilian spirit) and bacon.
Fidel Galano:
The Magical Black Beans of Cuban Cooking
Fidel Galano is an IT Director at the EPA by day and a master of
Cuban cooking by night, along with being a long-time Zingermans
customer. We welcome Fidel as he shares his passion for Cuban
American cuisine, the emotional connection with cooking in the
Cuban and Puerto Rican community, and the significance of pork
in his family.

Simran Sethi: Sam Suchoff: Ji Hye Kim:

Good Pig, Bad Pig: The Impacts of Pig Farming in North Carolina
Award-winning journalist and educator, Simran Sethi, writes
about environmental and food sustainability issues. Her book,
Bread, Wine, Chocolate: The Slow Loss of Foods We Love, was named
one of the top food books of 2016 by the Smithsonian Institute.
Simran's talk "Good Pig/Bad Pig" will explore pig farming in her
home state of North Carolina, the second largest pork producer
in the United States.
Charles Wekselbaum:
"Failure, Cuba, and Salami: A Journey in Meaty Entrepreneurship"
Charles is not only an award-winning chef and owner of Charlitos
Cocina, he has also written an approachable how-to book on the
process of curing meats, Cured: Handcrafted Charcuteria and More.
Charlitos story of how his fascination with curing meats and his
time in Spain led to the success of an artisanal business venture
is an inspiration to all.
Dave Mueller:
A Century of Marvelous Liverwurst in Milwaukee
Our sales representative from Fred Usingers, Inc. will be guiding
us on a fascinating journey through 137 years of sausage making.
Fred Usinger started his company in 1880 when he brought his
talents from Germany to Milwaukee. Usinger's was one of the
original regional sausages selected to be sold at Zingerman's Deli
the very first day we opened.
How A Vegan Jewish Boy Ended Up Making Marvelous Country Ham Pork Traditions in Korean Cooking
The owner of The Pig Restaurant in Chapel Hill is committed to It all started with a cart named San Street and handmade Korean
buying whole hogs from local farmers in North Carolina that are buns. Before we knew it, Ji Hye Kim opened Miss Kim, located in
pasture-raised without the use of antibiotics or hormones. His Kerrytown, as a Zingerman's Community of Business Managing
dedication to using the whole animal left him with enough left- Partner. Her success has connected Ann Arbor residents with
over hams to sell through his latest collaborative venture, Lady really good, Korean food, including amazing pork belly buns!
Edison Hams.
Joe Mislinski:
James Mousigian: Crimes Committed with Bacon
Honoring the Pig: Utilizing the Entire Animal When Joe isnt working with
The Regional Sales Manager from Fra Mani Handcrafted Foods companies in advanced busi-
will present examples of the company's philosophy of sourcing ness development, he is writ-
and using the whole animal for the most appropriate use of par- ing for his blog: My Life with
ticular muscles to create particular products. This philosophy of Bacon. Not only are his sto-
honoring the animal and also achieving Old World economy is one ries delicious, but his talk
of the benchmark principles of Fra' Mani founder, Paul Bertolli, about crimes with bacon in
and in many ways defined his approach as a practicing chef. literature, film and real life will
be sizzling!
Susan Schwallie:
Pork, the One You Love
This market research expert for NDP Group brings the num-
bers behind the food. She draws on her expertise as one of the
countrys leading consumer statisticians to share the latest pork Seats for these amazing events are limited!
and bacon-related numbers from the marketplace. Whos eating Book now to reserve your spot at
bacon? How much? How was that consumption changed? Susan zingermanscampbacon.com
has the answers!

ISSUE # 260 MAY-JUN 2017

3
 S
AN INTERVIEW WITH
imran Sethi Insightful, Award-Winning Journalist
comes to Ann Arbor for Camp Bacon
mitigate air pollution or soil contamination isnt paying, or charg- cycle of chemical application to increase outputs. From the book:
Ari: Were excited to have youand your wealth of knowledge, ing, the full cost of that bacon or pork chop. But that community Were trying to get out of the clutches of using chemicals on our
insight and perspective on the food worldcoming to Camp Bacon.
where the CAFO is located does. Those costs need to be internal- farmland, but, without these things, the seeds perform worse than
Youve come a long way from being born in Southern Germany to
ized, embedded into the price we pay for food. traditional ones. This refrain of more chemicals equals higher
being one of the most thought provoking food journalists in the
yields echoes throughout industrialized agriculture. The chemical
country. Can you give folks a quick sense of your journey?
A: Im sure youve gotten quite a bit of response to the book. What dependence experienced by wheat farmers and other farmers can
are some of the reactions from readers? The food industry? be compared to any other addiction: It feels good in the moment,
Simran: Ari, thats a long journey! I think the most enduring part but, in order to achieve the same effects, you end up using more
of it is, as an immigrant, I have always had a pretty expansive
worldview. And I have parents who gave me a lot of bandwidth
S: What was most surprising is how deeply they resonated with my and more of the drug. In regards to pork production, we see a
story. It reminded me of what psychologist Anthony Leiserowitz similar trajectory.
to explore what I loved but with the strict mandate to do it really
told me: "Data doesnt change peoples decision-making." I am
well. That goes back to the immigrant thingmy dad always told
me I had to give 110%. So, I have had the good fortune of seeing a
really heartened by the response I have gotten from specialty and A: Camp Bacon is, of course, a fundraiser for Southern Foodways
craft food makers and from scientists. The ones who have reached Alliance. What would you like to say about their work?
lot of the world and always feeling a keen interest in that larger
out to me have been very happy with what I shared and that has
world, and getting to do work that is really meaningful to me.
That has included work as a journalism professor, doula, yoga
been gratifying. S: SFA is extraordinary! I had actually contemplated moving to
Oxford just to be closer to the University of Mississippis Center for
teacher, broadcast journalist, and now, writer, radio reporter and
podcaster.
A: Youve written and spoken a lot in the interest of helping people the Study of Southern Culture (where SFA is housed). They tell the
learn how to taste the difference. What are some of the keys? Can deep stories that need to be told about food and get to the heart
anyone learn to really taste the difference between, say, good of why we all care so much how and why food isnt just calories.
A: Your new book, Bread, Wine, Chocolate; the Slow Loss of Foods chocolate and bad?
We Love, is a wonderful piece of work. Its very much aligned with
our approach to good food and good cooking here at Zingermans.
A: Were lucky to have you speaking twice during your visit to Ann
What were some of the biggest learnings or surprises you had
S: Absolutely. You are your own best expert, but we can also use Arbor. Youre giving a second talka few days after Camp Bacon
guidance. So, as I mentioned, I have detailed tasting guides in the at ZingTrain, as part of the Speaker Series there. That talk will be
while working on the book?
book. And I would say I try to stay away from distinctions like on Engagement. Tell us more.
good and bad. That is based on the feedback I got from the
S: Yes, there is resonance. One of the biggest learnings for me was hundreds of people I interviewed. Id say the first thing to do is S: The talk will focus on work Ive been exploring for about a
how little I knew about the foods that anchored my life. I had no
start paying attention. Use all of your senses. To stay with choco- decade. Namely, how do we come together and authentically relate
idea chocolate was fermentedand I wouldnt have been able to
late, notice the wrapper. Look at the color of the chocolate. Listen to each other? I think, particularly in these times, we need to find
recognize it in nature. I didnt realize the birthplace of coffee was
to its snap. Smell it. Oh, smell it! Most of our experience of flavor is pathways for connection. I use psychology as my lens for under-
Ethiopiaand that the country was also responsible for the culture
smell. As you put it in your mouth, let it melt slowly. I have started standing how we can best engage.
of coffee and the future of coffee. I was also surprised to learn how
a podcast on chocolate called The Slow Melt, and on the first show
much power I had given away in terms of enjoying food. I used to
be very big on reviews, and now I understand exactly how subjec-
I interviewed a chemist from GermanyPeter Schieberlewho A: Have you been to Ann Arbor before? What are you looking
explains what a difference that slow melting makes in how we forward to on the trip?
tive they are. Our experience of food belongs to us as individuals,
perceive the aromas and tastes of chocolate. Notice the tastes that
but is also shaped by our cultural background, our socio-economic
class and by smaller influences, such as the shape or weight of a
come up as it melts. And the texture, and then start to put words to S: Theres this place Ive been hearing about for years called
that experience. Now do it over and over again. Zingermans Seriously! You top my list. In addition, I am excited
bowl or the color or price of an item. In the book, I dissect every
to spend a bit of time at the Matthaei Botanical Gardens and
one of our senses in order to reveal those influencesand I
include tasting guides for bread, wine, coffee, chocolate and beer
A: Ive listened to, and also read about, many of your talks over the Nichols Arboretum.
years. One of the most interesting titles was one you gave on The
so people can feel empowered to discover them on their own.
Emotional Geography of Biodiversity. Can you share more about
what that means?
A: In the coffee chapter, you wrote, The way to stem the loss of
210
coffee is to recognize its valueand pay for it... the truth is, were
not paying enough. Can you say more about that? Is it true of
S: Its such a lovely title, no? I didnt actually come up with it but it #
was inspired by my book and what I share about the world being a
other foods as well as of coffee?
reflection of who we are. I wrote:

S: It is true of all foods. You know, first let me back up and say What we do to our ecosystemwhat we do to our foodis
hunger is a real problem and people are hurting. But that chal-
what we do to ourselves. When we talk about depletion in soil
lenge is often used as an excuse to sell people cheap food rather
and water, were also talking about something being depleted
than looking at the bigger issue that people should earn enough
in us. When we refer to monocropping and monodiets, that
money to feed themselves well. And the sad irony is that many
monotony is a reflection of how we live our lives. If the stories
Cochon de Lait
of the hungriest people in the U.S. and globally work in food and A Dance with Flame
of seeds are the stories of us, we have to ask ourselves, What
agriculture. I write:
seeds are we plantingand how do we nourish the seeds we Thursday, June 1st
want to grow? 7:00pm $75
We Americans spend less of our income on food6.7 percent,
with an increasing percentage spent on snacksthan almost
any other country on the planet. Less than what we spent on
A: Ive heard you say that youre insanely conscious of where Weve got the fire, hell bring the pig. We welcome
that meat comes from. Your Camp Bacon talk will be Good Pig, Clark Rachal from Avoyelles Parish in Louisiana,
food during the Great Depression. No one should be underfed.
Bad Pig: The Impacts of Pig Farming in North Carolina. This is an where the process of roasting pig in Cajun country
Those who are should have greater support in not only being
importantfor good reasoncause for you. Can you share some of is taken to a whole new level of flavor and gastro-
fed but being fed well. And those of us who can afford more
what youre going to talk about? nomical technique. Cochon de Lait has evolved as
might do well to reconsider why we pride ourselves on cheap
food. That bargain means that someone (a farmer or factory a time-honored tradition to capture the essence
worker, not the CEO) or something (such as safety or environ-
S: I grew up in North Carolina and consider North Carolina BBQ one of community, as people gather together for really
of my comfort foods. The problem is that our voracious appetite great food and festivity. Whether its in a neighbors
mental standards) was likely compromised.
for pork has caused a real imbalance. Between 1992 and 2012, the yard or at the Annual Cochon de Lait Festival, the
number of hogs in North Carolina nearly doubled to 9.5 million. Joie de Vivre is captured in the spirit of the roast,
When it comes to coffee specifically, commodity prices are so low
This puts us right behind Iowa in terms of the size of our hog farm- in the dancing of the open flames.
that most farmers do not earn enough to ever rise out of poverty. I
ing industry.
mean, the system is built on cheap labor. When I reference the loss
of coffee, I am talking about the loss of biodiversity in the crop. Hung over an open pit, the pig is roasted slowly,
There are wonderful hog farms in the state that are committed to trapping the juices inside, then moved closer to the
We need that diversity as an insurance system against agricultural
treating their animals well and raising their livestock sustainably, fire at the end so that the skin crackles. Its a sci-
challenges that might come up, to be able to breed those diverse
but there are also larger operations that are causing significant ence, yet over the years its become intuitive to the
traits into future crops. But what happens in our current industri-
environmental challenges. The pork industry earns North Carolina natives of Avoyelles Parish. As they move the poles
alized system is yield is king. The only way to earn moneythese
nearly $3 billion per year, but those animals generate almost 10 bil- with the pigs in rhythm to the flames, the Cochon
farmers get paid by the weight of their harvestis to grow more
lion gallons of waste, enough to fill 15,000 Olympic-size swimming de Lait experts of Avoyelles perfect the timing of
and more and more coffee. So they tend to replace the more diver-
pools. I want to talk about both sides of itand how we, the eaters, each step and swing, and the flavor of every pig
sity, and probably more delicious varieties, with these hybrids that
can help shift the imbalance. they roast.
werent bred for flavor, but for high output. This is what we lose.

Now there is, of course, the specialty coffee trajectory that is quite
A: One of the farmers you interview in the book, Jashant Singh, Join us for a memorable Bacon Ball, as we also
told you that, Becoming a slave is very easy, but getting free takes enjoy sizzlin bacon from Burgers' Ozark Country
different and has the potential to really transform the market. I go
time. Reclaiming this takes time. The quote, of course, appeals Cured Hams, Inc.
into detail on certifications and direct trade models in the book.
to my anarchist worldview. But he was talking particularly about
agriculture. Can you talk more about that? How has that played out RESERVE YOUR SPOT:
And Ill add one more thing: The prices of so many of our foods
with commercial pork?
are distorted by tariffs and subsidies and by externalized costs. zingermansroadhouse.com
For example, the pork purveyor with the giant CAFO (concentrated
animal feeding operation) that doesnt have to pay for costs to
S: Jashant was talking about the industrialization of agriculture
and how the Indian state of Punjab has become locked into a

4 ISSUE # 260 MAY-JUN 2017

NueskesWisconsin
Applewood Smoked Bacon
IF
you want a big time testimonial to get you to try Nueskes, take it from the great, late,
reporter of politics and food, R.W. Apple, who wrote in the New York Times that Nueskes
was, the beluga of bacon, the Rolls-Royce of rashers. Given that it's hard to top that, Ill
just say that its a darned excellent way to eat! If youre one of the few people in town here who
hasnt actually eaten it, Nueskes is meaty, subtly sweet (as much from the influence of the apple-
wood as from the sugar in the cure), and so good that weve been cooking it every morning at the
Deli for the last twenty-five years.
Tanya Nueske, granddaughter of the founder, is about as passionate about her product as youre
going to get. This is the real thingthe woman really means it. What we do is a very old tradition.
My grandfather started up selling the bacon in 1933. He started out smoking over applewood. And
he had a way of doing it and style that came from his grandparents. He has a good sense of style
in a personal way, tooif youre out at the Roadhouse you can see him, dressed snappily in a newly
pressed Nueskes delivery uniform, looking out at you from his photographic perch above the fire-
place.
Weve been cooking Nueskes amazing applewood smoked bacon pretty much every single morning
since we opened the Deli in March of 1982. In fact, John Nueskethe great-grandfather of Tanya
Nueske, who runs the business todayarrived in the United States from Germany in 1882, the same
year that Rocco Disderide, the man who built the Deli building back in 1902, arrived from Italy.
Perhaps they shared a sandwich at Castle Garden Immigration Center off of New York City where
immigrants arrived in those days. If they did, their memories are now meeting up every day at the
Deli. I know for sure that for well over 30 years now, Nueskes bacon has been contributing to the
aromatic ambiance of Roccos building.
This is the way Tanya Nueske and her family grew up eating hot dogs. Theyre not hard to make and
they really are darned good. To restate the by-now familiar, the better the buns and hot dogs, the
better these are going to taste. I use buns from Zingermans Bakehouse, on which I put either Vienna
all-beef dogs from Chicago (the ones I grew up with) or Niman Ranchs version. Take note that in
Wisconsin, cheddar always means orange cheese, never white. It wont taste any different, but if
you want to accurately replicate Tanya Nueskes early life experience, white just really wont do.

And even though shes been around it her entire life, she still loves to eat it, and eat it often. I eat
bacon so much. I eat it plain all the time. We used to do some toasted buns with olives, sauted
onions, bacon and cheese and sour cream. You put em under the broilerits so good. The passion
WITTENBERG SPLITS (Serves 6)
for the products comes through. We also take our hot dogs and we split them down the middle and
add cheddar cheese and a pickle and wrap the whole thing in bacon and run it under the broiler. ingredients Preheat oven to broil at 375 degrees. With a
Basically we use bacon with everything! sharp paring knife, cut a line lengthwise across
12 thick slices Nueskes
applewood smoked bacon each hot dog, leaving it attached at the bottom
Not surprisingly, they start with higher quality hogsprimarily a cross of Yorkshire, Hampshire, so that the dog is still in one piece. Lay the
Landrace and Berkshire. One of the biggest differences we find is in how theyre fed, Tanya told 6 jumbo hot dogs, split lengthwise sliced cheddar inside the split, then place a
me. We do a feed thats more barley and corn mixture. Weve been working with our suppliers for long slice of pickle atop the cheese. Wrap each
well over 25 years. And we still hand trim everything. The Nueskes cure the fresh slabs of bacon 6 ounces sharp cheddar,
hot dog in 2 slices of bacon and secure the ends
for at least 24 hours, hang them to dry for a day or so, and then smoke them for another. It gets an the older the better, sliced
of each strip with a toothpick.
awesome flavor because its been smoked so long, she said.
1 large dill pickle, sliced thinly lengthwise
Place on a foil-topped cookie sheet and broil
We design our smokehouses ourselves and have em built for us, she explained. And, she added, 6 hot dog buns, toasted for 10 to 12 minutes, or until the bacon is nicely
we still use actual applewood logs. People should know that applewood smoke can mean almost browned.
anything these daysapple juice, apple smoke flavoring... But we only use real logs. The smoking is toothpicks
all hand controlled by the smokemaster. Its a very artisan thing. She laughed and then added, The You can put your buns under the broiler for the
smokehouses are like children. The smokemaster will tell you that each smokehouse is different. last 2 minutes to toast them, too.
Without question, Nueskes has proven one of the most popular foods weve got for sale anywhere
in our organization. We sell lots of it for folks to take home to cook in their own kitchen, and we Take out the toothpicks, put the dogs in the
also use it extensively. If you come visit, you can try it on any number of sandwiches, in the greens buns and eat em while theyre hot.
at the Roadhouse or the Bacon Peppered Farm Bread at the Bakehouse. Its flavor is on the mellower
side, with soft sweetness from the applewood that amplifies the natural sweetness in the high qual-
ity pork the family goes to such lengths to source.

AMERICAS DAIRYLAND ALSO CURES DELICIOUS PORK

Usingers
Unbelievably Good Liverwurst 35 YEARS OF WONDERFUL WURST AT THE DELI

A
lot has changed over the 35-plus years since we opened
Zingermans. But one thing thats remained exactly the
same over all those years is the prominent presence of
Usingers liverwurst in the Delis meat case. It was there when we
opened and its there now. The Usinger recipe hasnt changed. And
its been delicious every day Ive tasted it over three and a half
decades. Im guessing its been that way for well over a century,
ever since Frederick Usinger started the business!
Id read about Usingers in the months before we opened. All
signs seemed to point to it being pretty terric. The best in the
country, many said. The week we opened, The New York Times ran
a piece by renowned food writer Mimi Sheraton about her search
for high quality liverwurst. After looking nationwide but finding
little great product, shed almost given up. She shared that: Good
liverwurst, I decided, has gone the way of great hot dogs and
really thick, authentic malted-milk shakesuntil I remembered
Usinger's, whose extraordinary variations on the liverwurst theme
I have admired for years and which I sampled again last summer
in Chicago... Made without preservatives and still in natural cas-
ings, the varieties produced by this 102-year-old concern in its
Milwaukee factory can still be considered gastronomic triumphs.
As you might imagine, I called for samples (no email in those days,
of course), which they quickly sent along. The avor backed up all
the advance PRUsingers liverwurst was lovely. Delicious. Down
to earth, denitely traditional, and very full avored. Three and
a half decades later, Usingers stu is still terric. One of the best
things we sell!
Fred Usinger came to the U.S. (to Milwaukee) in 1880. Hed grown
up in the town of Wehen in southern Germany, northwest of
Frankfurt. After doing an apprenticeship with a master sausage
maker, he moved to America. It was an era of large scale emi-
gration from Europe. In Milwaukee, Mr. Usinger began making
sausage at the butcher shop of Mrs. Julia Gaertner on what was
then the high end of Milwaukees shopping district. A few years
later, he bought the shop from her, changed the name, and it
has been Usingers ever since. Today, Usingers is run by the 4th
generation. In that sense, I suppose its the spiritual counterpart
of Nueskes. One traditional, high quality German-style pork pro-
ducer in Wisconsins southeast; the other way up north in the town
of Wittenberg. Both of the founders came from Germany at around
the same time, both started small, both are run now by the fourth
generation of the family, and while both have grown, each has
stayed totally dedicated to quality and care and high-end ingredi-
ents. And both have played prominent parts in the Delis selection
since the week we opened!
In particular, Im partial to a pair of Usingers liverwursts
Braunschweiger and Hessiche Landleberwurst. The former is the
more lightly smoked of the two. Its bigger in sizeabout three
inches in diameterbut milder in flavor. In fact, its as good now as
it was 35 years ago when Mimi Sheraton wrote, Pale pink braun-
schweiger, a large, round wurst that is a bit coarser and can be
spread or sliced, has a lean, meaty quality accented by the flavor
of beef suet. Basically its a pt in a natural pork casing; a finely
ground pork version of chopped liver; its just fresh pork liver,
pork, onion, beef fat and spices, smoked lightly over hickory. Its
a delicacy whose nameliverwurstall too-often evokes an unde-
served eye roll from folks who are sure they dont like liver. One
friend of mine recently had a tentative taste, thinking she shouldnt
be a fan, and ended up eating almost the entire piece Id brought
with me. By the time we were done, she was thinking up a whole
range of great ways to serve itone was to put it into dumplings,
or ravioli. Another, on a sandwich with Swiss mountain cheese,
Rayes yellow mustard (from the last stone mustard mill in the U.S.,
in Eastport, Maine) and a slice of sweet onion. Its truly delicious.
Equally excellent is their Hessiche Land Leberwurst. Its ingredients,
again, are simplepork, pork liver, pork fat, salt, onions, and spic-
es. Its long smokeddouble smoked is how its often described
with plenty of good pork fat and a healthy dose of cracked black
pepper, and comes in a golden-colored natural casing. Spicier,
smokier and a bit moister than the Braunschweiger, its terrific
for sandwiches or snacks, for casual picnics, or very fancy get-
togethers. The one pound pieces are small enough that you could
put out a whole one for a party. Or just buy a quarter or half pound.
Great on the caraway rye bread from the Bakehouse. Try itor the
Braunschweigeron a sandwich with, caramelized onions!
The natural casings Usingers uses are rarely seen these days
but are critical to the quality of the finished product. They allow
the pork and liver to breathe, and smoke to properly penetrate.
Same goes for the old school, careful grinding that Usingers does.
Modern industrial versions extrude the meat leading to a pasty,
bitter product.
I cant truthfully say that either of these terrific offerings is going
to change the world; but they will definitely change your beliefs
about liverwurst! Come to Camp Bacon and hear all about the
Usingers story in person! Or come by the Deli and ask for a taste
any time.

ISSUE # 260 MAY-JUN 2017

5
UNCUT & UNFILTERED:
THE SECRETS TO OUR SUCCESS
Here at ZingTrain, were all about learning and sharing. We teach clients all over the country about Zingermans unique approach to
business. On the occasion of Zingermans 35th Anniversary, we couldnt help but ask ourselves, "What do we think about us?!"

And so we asked all the current and former staff at Zingermans to answer the question - Why do you think weve made it
this far? Here are their answers. Uncut. Unfiltered. All we did was correct a few typos and insert a few capitals. Oh, and
we got all verklempt.

I have made it so far because of my alignment with OPEN BOOK! Everyone matters!
Kerry Comisky, Zingermans Creamery, 2
Zingerman's values and my personal passion for weeks, 4 days
food and service. I think the biggest reason for
Zingerman's success is we dare to be different.
Jeff Wojcik, Zingermans Service Network, Finance, 7 months
Educated and empowered employees.
Susan Adams, Zingermans Delicatessen Catering,
worked part-time 1988 - 1990
Open-mindedness. We care.
Erin Reed, Zingermans Creamery, Kaile, Zingermans Mail
3.25 years Order, 8 Holidays
Because we consistently accomplish the Internal business structure -
three bottom lines; great food, great based on some key anarchist
service, and great finance. principles - empowering
Angela, Zingermans Mail Order, 1 year (2 Holidays) I don't think there IS a single reason. I think it is many, employees to participate
many small, large and in-between things. But one key in running the Zingermans
reason is founding partners who have an abundance Community of Businesses
mentality and have been willing to share not only Lauren, Zingermans Delicatessen, 3 years
Great food and Great Training. ownership, but also the credit for the organization's
great guest Sara Angus, success.
service! Zingermans Practical Maggie Bayless, ZingTrain, 23 years since founding ZingTrain in 1994. 25 if you
Abi, Zingermans Deli- Produce, 3 years count the two years I worked at the Deli while in business school at UM.
catessen, 5 months Well- it's hard to say it's just one
thing. Here's the top few: our mission
- sharing the zingerman's experience;
Visioning! It has truly changed we recognize service as an honorable
Ari & Paul & eventually the organization's collective my life both professionally and profession; we have a culture of
insistence to not do things the way they're done personally. learning & teaching; we are open book,
but to rather find OUR best way... whether that Kristie Brablec, Zingermans Service Network and have opportunity for all.
means learning from forgotten tradition, learning (formerly Zingermans Mail Order), 13.8 years Grace Singleton, Zingermans Delicatessen, 14+ years
from experts in other industries or innovating along
unknown or untravelled paths.
Anne Kellogg, Zingermans Delicatessen, 5.5 years over a period of 15 years Respect and care for
employees. Mindful decision The three bottom lines
making. Training! (Great Food, Great
Jason McNeely, Cornman Farms, 1.5 years
Service, Great Finance)
I feel that my direct Paul Metler, Zingermans Delicatessen
leadership cares about me. Catering, 8 years

I like how I am empowered Not having a single

to get my job done doing bottom line. Food,
whatever it takes. Also, I feel service, finance. Can't
I am very welcomed in the have one without the Appreciation,
Zingermans Community of other. communication, dedication,
Businesses. Jim Dorman, Zingermans Mail acceptance, fun-spirited
Fahim Al-Awadi, Zingermans Service Order, 10 years Laura Bibler, Zingermans Roadhouse/
Network, 16 months Roadshow, 7ish months

I think the biggest reason that Zingerman's has made it this far is because
of how much it encourages a culture of non-stop improvement. It doesn't Collective consciousness. Like minded
just settle when something is working out alright. It looks at something people coming together to converse
satisfactory and asks, "What can make this GREAT?" It looks at where it's and motivate others to participate. We
made mistakes, admits them, and does its best to right them. It inspires all have the capacity to help others,
people to do what they love and love what they do. to have meaningful impact on our
Charles Davis, Zingermans Delicatessen, from October of 2011 through January of 2015 community, our environment, and our
global human family. This Zingermans
thing is a smorgasbord of the ideals
Getting your employees interested in the The bravery to think we all want, and support. And our
inner workings of the business and making differently, and the ability to share the things we Love.
them feel important - like their opinion esteemed vision of Ari and Mike, Zingermans Bakehouse, 5 years
and ideas count (and they do!) Paul who inspire others.
Moira, Zingermans Delicatessen Catering, 4 years Jenni, Zingermans Mail Order, off and on
since 2005

6 ISSUE # 260 MAY-JUN 2017

 Great Products.
Keith, Zingermans Mail Order,
just over a year
People, plain and simple.
Amelia Rappaport, Zingermans
Delicatessen, 1986-1990
Our humanistic
perspective.
Randolph, Zingermans Creamery,
cumulatively 13 years
Zingermans sells
great, weird food
that you can't get
at other places.
Maureen Butchart,
Zingermans Mail Order, 1.5
years (2 holidays)
as many lives as we
The people!
Obviously. Right?
Trevor, Zingermans
Delicatessen, 22.5 fantastic
months
Three bottom lines.
Fielding Fowler, Zingermans
Delicatessen, 4+ years (5 holidays)
We are. It's the people. The only real problem
that I believe any business has, is the inability
to fill every position with competent, caring,
and engaged individuals. You keep doing that,
and you'll keep being successful.
Sir Decker, of the Knightly Order of Purchasing,
Zingermans Delicatessen, 5+ years
AUTHENTICITY. We let folks
be who they are. We infuse
everything with humor and
we don't take ourselves too
seriously.
Jenn Hayman, Zingermans Service
Network, 1+ years
I think a combination of an
unusual focus on customer
service (going the extra
mile) and commitment to
branding (special fonts,
fun signs, creating our own
unique products) are the
two biggest factors that
make Zingerman's the magical
phenomenon that it is!
Sabine Bickford, ZingTrain, 1 year
Giving a damn about everything.
Great food, great service,
INTERNAL and external. Caring
about the community we reside
and do business in. Great finance
for all to know about. Open
book! We're all just people and
nothing is perfect. Oh, and care
of all of us individuals. We're
all important and valued. So, no
single reason, but many.
Amy Berger, Zingermans Bakehouse,
dang near 19 years
Pursuit of excellence; in
food product, processes and The quality of the food.
Chris Cook, Zingermans
people. You make the people
Delicatessen, 3 years
feel valued, intelligent,
contributing members of
the organization and allow
them to pursue what they are Empowering the
passionate about and great employees through
results result! Here's to servant leadership,
another 35 years!! education, and valuing
Tracy Darrow, Zingermans Service their input and
Network, almost 3 years knowledge no matter
what level they are in
the organization.
Great Service! Being kind to Joseph Richardson,
Zingermans Service Network,
others trumps all!
Rick, Zingermans Delicatessen, 15 years
Web Team, 2.8 years
ZINGTRAIN
Showing Love and
Care in all our
Organic growth, utilizing strengths
of the talented staff, allowing
CELEBRATES THE
ZCOB'S 35th
actions to enrich for all levels of the Deli, through
to the Zingermans Community of
possibly can!
Mara Ferguson,
Businesses, to achieve maximum
strides towards increasingly
ANNIVERSARY!
Zingermans Training,
7 years shared goals. followed by a dash of ORIENTATION CLASS(IC):TEACH YOUR
tenacity and tablespoon of luck. NEW HIRES YOUR CULTURE. $395/person
Sean Hartwig, Zingermans Delicatessen, +/- a decade
June 28, 8am12pm, ZingTrain
Take OUR New Hire Orientation Class.
Make YOUR New Hire Orientation Class.
We've made it 35 years because Our co-founders, Ari Weinzweig and Paul Saginaw, teach every
we've articulated and stayed single person we hire a 2.5 hour class called "Welcome to the
true to our mission: to provide Zingerman's Community of Businesses". They are the ONLY ones
the "Zingerman's experience". that teach it and they're seriously committed to it.
It's an experience built around
If youre wondering why Ari and Paul are the only ones to teach
great food and service,
it and what on earth they talk about in the class, youre in luck.
kindness and fun, and you can't
get it anywhere else.
Matthew Bodary, Zingermans Coffee
In honor of our 35th Anniversary, we are offering a very special
workshop, co-taught by Ari and ZingTrain Founding Partner,
Company, 5 years
Maggie. Not only will you get to be a Zingerman's New
Hire and attend "Welcome to the Zingerman's Community of
Businesses, youll get to draft your very own orientation class.
I think the biggest reason for our success is the people Only 35 seats. One for each year we've been around.
who work in the organization. I think great people Register at ZingTrain.com
attract other great people so we are continually adding
new knowledge and skills to our teams. The culture
here, created by all of the people in the organization, CULTURE STARTER PACK $35
is truly unlike anywhere I have seen before. We (for
the most part) genuinely like working with another The Perfect Starter for YOUR Organizational Culture!
and appreciate what the others contribute. We are
What does it include?
encouraged to voice our opinions and to speak up.
Two invaluable resources that tell you just about everything you
I honestly can't imagine working anywhere else. I feel
need to know about our culture:
lucky to have found my professional home at just the
A Lapsed Anarchist's Approach to Building a Great Business
age of 19. Not many people can say that. :)
Joanie Hales, ZingTrain (formerly Zingermans Roadhouse), 13.5 years Zingerman's Staff Guide (Employee Handbook)
And drumroll never before seen in public
A PDF workbook for the orientation class thats taught to EVERY
Vision - it's integrated in everything we do, from single one of our employees, ONLY by our Founding Partners!
the grand stories (Paul's great big sandwich
that drips russian dressing down your arms) to
the small daily changes (moving merchandising
displays), and in between (an individual whose
vision gets them that raise they've been hoping
for). I believe visioning is a natural part of being
human, so when we have language and systems Available
around visioning, it creates a safe place for us to
share our visions, improve them, and turn them into at ZingTrain
reality. And that Zingy environment of multiple 3728 Plaza Dr. Ann
visions creates a synergy which totally leads to our Arbor, MI 48108
collective success. zingtrain.com
Arianna, ZingTrain & Zingermans Delicatessen, 5 years
The people who work there. The ones who have helped me and the ones that I have become friends with.
I have worked at many places where the co-workers there drove me mad. I usually stick with a job for
about 4 months before the co-workers get to me. But at Zingermans that wasnt the case. I appreciate
those who work there, and I thank them for making the work environment so friendly and fun. Its nice
to know someone cares about you.
Susie, Zingermans Delicatessen, 1 year and a couple of weeks
ISSUE # 260 MAY-JUN 2017
7
I ts nearly impossible to imagine a world without coffee.
Today, we see coffee served at nearly every restaurant,
with cafs on almost every corner. Coffee can be served in
a multitude of formats. It can be served from a syphon or
press pot. Coffee can be brewed as an espresso and added with
other ingredients to create a latt, cappuccino or caf con miel.
Coffee is a staple, if not a ritual, to people worldwide. So much
so that sometimes it seems coffee has been around since the
beginning of time. Of course, this is not the case, and the his-
tory of coffees spread and legend of its discovery is incredibly
intriguing.
But before the history, its important to start with the basics
what exactly is coffee? The coffee plant is a woody perennial
evergreen. The coffee bean is the dried, green seed of the
coffee cherry. There are two widely-cultivated species: cof-
fea arabica (or Arabica) and coffea canephora (or Robusta). cities. By 1700, there were over 2,000 coffee houses in London
Within each species are a number of cultivars. A good compari-
son might be apples there are numerous kinds of apples, and
while all have the foundation apple taste, there are clear char-
acteristic differences between a Granny Smith and Honeycrisp.
The same notion can be applied to coffees different cultivars
have different characteristics. Beyond the cultivar of a coffee,
there are hundreds, if not thousands, of other factors that can
change a coffee. Geography, processing, roasting, and brewing
method can all impact the way a coffee tastes. In fact, there are
said to be more tasting notes in coffee than there are in wine!
So how exactly did coffee come to be? The most widely known
origin of coffee comes from Kaldi, an Ethiopian goat-herder in
the 9th Century. Legend has it that one evening, Kaldi went to
call in his goats for the night. To his surprise, the goats were
unusually excitable. Even after sundown, the goats showed no
interest in settling down for sleep. Puzzled and curious, Kaldi
followed his herd into the foothills the following morning. Here,
he saw the goats grazing on the bright red fruit of a shrub what
we now know to be the coffee tree. Intrigued, Kaldi himself
decided to sample the cherries and became exhilarated by the
effects. He decided to share this discovery and brought them to
a monk in a nearby Monastery. The monk was stunned and dis-
approved of the cherries psychoactive effects and threw them
into the fire. However, enticed by the aroma as the bean began
to roast, the monk had second thoughts. He raked the beans out,
ground them, and made the worlds first cup of brewed coffee.
8 ISSUE # 260 MAY-JUN 2017
By the 11th Century, coffee was used for medicinal purposes and
was cultivated as a stimulant by monks. Coffee was also widely
used by ancient Ethiopians going into battle. In 1517, Sultan Selim
introduced coffee to Constantinople after conquering Egypt.
Coffee then spread through Europe and the Colonies, being
introduced first by Venetians. Colonial trading power gave way
to the rapid expansion of coffee. In 1658, coffee was established
in India. In 1713, King Louis XIV received a coffee plant as a gift
and planted it in the royal gardens. In 1723, Gabriel Mathieu de
Clieu secretly brought coffee clippings across the Atlantic and
planted them in Martinique.
Not only was there a spread of coffee itself, but also the expan-
sion of coffee houses. In 1554, the first coffee houses opened
Anniversary Blend
in or near Constantinople. In the 17th Century, coffee houses An exclusive blend available only in May!
emerged in Venice, London, Turkey, Boston and several other A celebration of coffees from Myanmar and Costa Rica,
this blend is smooth with a big body and a rich, clean,
alone. These hot spots were viewed as egalitarian meeting long finish. It balances juicy tropical fruit with deep notes
places and some say that Enlightenment was incubated in the of chocolate. Available at Zingermans Coffee Company.
cafs of Europe.
The Industrial Revolution brought about rapid advances for
coffee in transportation, machinery and mass production. The
mid-1800s brought about the emergence of commercial roast-
ers. Before such an advent, it was common for individuals or
families to buy green coffee and roast it as needed. Roasting
coffee was considered to be merely another household chore,
like washing clothes or baking bread. This also brought about
brewing innovations. The groundwork for developing espresso
machine technology began in the 19th Century. In 1902, Luigi
Bezarra of Italy sought a patent on rapid preparation of coffee
(or, espresso). In 1935, Francesco Illy designed the first air-
compressed espresso machine.
The history of coffee is truly fascinating. Today, we are in what
is considered the Third Wave of coffee, where high-quality
coffee is sought and each step in a coffees journey is pertinent.
At Zingermans Coffee Company, we are committed to sourcing
high-quality coffees that taste really great and pay respect to
the geography of the bean. Were delighted not only to be a part
of the specialty coffee industry, but also to add another layer to
coffees history.
Kathryn Wagner
Customer Service and Marketing Coordinator
Zingerman's Coffee Company
Z ingermans Coffee Company and Hacienda
Miramonte in Costa Ricas Naranjo Region
sets a new benchmark for producer-roaster
partnerships. The Coffee Companys Managing
Partner, Steve Mangigian, has been working
with the growers and cultivators at Hacienda
Miramonte and is involved in the entire produc-
tion process of the latest harvest, from sampling
and approving microlots to milling and sorting.

The result is four of the best coffees from Costa

Rica that Steve has ever experienced. He says
the quality is a testament to the strong bond
Zingermans Coffee Company has forged with
Hacienda Miramonte, a collaboration that he
believes is the future for the world of specialty
coffee.

Ive been to many farms, but this was the most

exciting, he explains. Not only were we able to
be involved when it was time to pick the cherry,
we also cupped all the coffees that we selected.
After evaluation, we went to the mill to oversee
final sorting.

The Coffee Companys contribution doesnt just

end with coffee harvesting. Hacienda Miramonte has been owned by the same family for over 100 years. Run by Ricardo
Gurdian and his daughter Viviana, the farm is committed to growing quality coffees and giving back to their employees, includ-
ing a group of highly experienced pickers, and local community.

Zingermans works with Hacienda Miramonte to provide financial assistance to workers during times of personal hardship.
This, Steve says, is part a holistic relationship that strengthens the core of a lasting collaboration between producer and
roaster, allowing all involved to focus on a product that both can be proud of.

Through these partnerships that the Zingermans Community of Businesses continues to establish, theres an abundance of
opportunity to provide and receive more than just the value of the commodities purchased from the growing list of vendors
and producers. Theres an opportunity to impact the lives of employees on both sides of the process. Zingermans Coffee
Company is a shining example of how this work can be done both mindfully and practically.

Cheese and bourbon. They both get better with age, and the Roadhouse welcomes you to savor the best of
both delights with our upcoming Kentucky Special Dinner, featuring Kennys Farmhouse.

208 Kennys Farmhouse put Kentucky cheesemaking on the map in 1998, when founder
Kenny Mattingly was inspired to take his dairy farm to a new level after observing
farming practices in Europe. Today, Kenny and his team are producing award-winning
cheeses using Old World techniques and aging many of their offerings in caves on
their farm.

Zingermans Roadhouse proudly serves cheeses from Kennys Farmhouse on our

menu because they offer an intense quality of flavor thanks to the fresh, raw
milk they are made from daily.

Join us on May 9th, as we welcome our special guests from Kennys Farmhouse
to explore a rich tradition of farm-made cheeses. Chef Alex Young will collabo-
rate with Kenny for an unforgettable menu. And, yes, we will be pairing dishes
with a selection of Kentuckys choice bourbons!

DONT MISS THIS FANTASTIC NIGHT! RESERVE YOUR SPOT:

ZINGERMANSROADHOUSE.COM

ISSUE # 260 MAY-JUN 2017

9

S BYOyB (Bring Your Own YelLow Bag Wednesdays)
ummertime, in all its magnificence, bursts with vitality. Experience summertime at the
Deli through robust, seasonal offerings picnics fueled by Zingermans flavors, camping
excursions enhanced with Deli treasures, tranquil evenings elevated with Detroit Street
sustenance. Go forth and grab a bite out of summer!
Take me down to the Zingerman's Deli
Where the malts are flowing and I feed my belLy
Oh won't you please take me to zing!
Its a time Deli staff look forward to every year: "Whats gonna be
in the salad case?!" Strawberries Balsamico, fruit cobblers, jalapeo
peaches, Sesapeas, Snap Jack, prosciutto wrapped cantaloupe, gazpa-
cho, Bulgarian Cuke Soup, Zucchini Carpaccio, Caprese... The desire for
refreshing, chilled beverages is real and Zingermans Next Door turns
out our faves like the Brooklyn Egg Cream, Dirty Sheed, Jos Ginger Lime
Spritzer and brings our dessert dreams to reality with Marvelous Malts
and Fabulous Floats with Zingermans Creamery Gelato as the
star. Dont miss out on all the Deli-ciousness this summer.
Summer Sale
Not only is summer the best season, it also brings once a year sweet
deals with our Summer Sale (June 21st-July 31st. Jump at this chance to
stock up and save on some of our most beloved products. Two Summer
Sale All-stars: Go nuts with Koeze Cream Nut Natural Peanut Butters
andtheyre the absolute jam American Spoon Preserves. Stay tuned
for a list of all of the great goodies.
Whether youre planning a family reunion or celebrating a high school graduation, its
time to celebrate the warmth of summer with a Grillin package from Zingermans Catering.
Pull up a lawn chair and a cold beverage and let us take care of your next cookout!
*Pricing and menus are designed for 10 or more
people. We can accommodate smaller groups
upon request. Per person price may vary. We are
happy to provide a grill master, grill and service
staff for any meal for an additional fee, to give
you a truly stress-free event.
10 ISSUE # 260 MAY-JUN 2017
Katie Honoway
Merchandizing Collective
Zingerman's Deli
Bring your yellow Zingerman's canvas tote bag on Wednesdays for 10% off groceries.*
Screen printed locally, these heavy-duty canvas bags are made by our friends at VGKids to look
like our iconic yellow shopping bag. Sling it over your shoulder and head on down to the Deli on
Wednesdays for 10% off groceries. Then, make a stop at the Farmers Market and load up on fruits
and veggies at peak flavor. Youll have everything you need to make that light pasta dish grab a
hunk of Parmigiano for grating and some thin slices of prosciutto, a fresh salad whisk together
a dynamite homemade dressing with one of our phenomenal olive oils and vinegars, toss in some
spices from pices de Cru and add a splash of lemon. And what about some dessert? Who can resist
a Zingermans Bakehouse brownie? Top it with a handful of berries and whipped cream and now
youve just taken it to the next level!
*Cannot be combined with other discounts. Excludes sandwiches, soups and salads made to order.
Kids at the Deli
Summertime is for chillin on the patio. Come check out our brand new underwater themed mural
in the Kids Play Area! With chalkboards for coloring and toys to play with, your kids can be enter-
tained while you catch up with your bestie over a Georgia Reuben.
New to our Deli tastings line-up, Just for Kids classes are makin a splash. So far, weve Explored the
World of Cheese and next we take on Jams & Preserves (May 11th), then Candy (June 22nd)! Curious
about the details? Read more on pg. 15. Join us and be on the lookout for more! Stay up-to-date by
signing up for our Kids Happenings enewsletter. Visit zingermansdeli.com and scroll to the bottom
of the page.
You are cordially invited to our Sundae Social! Tuesday, May 23rd. Gelato, caramel sauce and
whipped cream, oh my! Choose vanilla or dark chocolate gelato to start, select your toppings and
crown your masterpiece with some whipped cream and youll be in dessert heaven. Well have
games & activities for kids of all ages and a chance for you to gather with your friends.
Grilled free-range Amish chicken quarters in a chile and lime marinade OR
Zingermans own zesty BBQ sauce
Italian sausages topped with grilled peppers and onions, in a delicious Bakehouse bun
Zingermans Cuban pork served with Bakehouse Rustic Rolls
Zingermans old fashioned potato salad
Grilled vegetable salad with barrel-aged feta cheese and balsamic dressing
Fresh fruit and berry salad
Warm apple or blueberry/peach fruit crisp (whats best in season)
Fresh brewed iced tea or lip-smackin fresh-squeezed lemonade

GIFT GUIDE FOR FATHERS DAY
Fathers Day is Sunday, June 18th. Dad is King for the day! Whether your dad is sweet, salty, spicy, sandwich-y,
snappy, or a combination of all these things, weve got your gift covered.
The Sweet Dad
Super Zzang
Zingermans Candy Manufactory Original Zzang bar super-sized
for a Super Dad! Dark chocolate surrounding peanuts, peanut
butter nougat, and caramel. Sure to make your sweet-toothed
dad smile.
Coops Hot Fudge and Gelato
A sweet sundae for a celebratory Sunday.
Made from simple ingredients, Marc
Coopers hot fudge is milky and chocolaty
with just the right amount of sweetness.
The perfect accompaniment for dads
favorite drum of Zingermans Creamery
gelato. Microwave for less than a min-
ute and youre in business. Or bring
Dad into the Next Door for a sundae:
we serve Coops Hot Fudge in house.
Antica Dolceria Bonajuto - Stone Ground Chocolate
These amazing chocolate bars come to us from a chocolate
maker in a little city in Sicily. Founded in 1880, it is one of the
oldest existent confection shops, which is still family-owned and
operated. Their grainy, cold-milled dark chocolate is made with
techniques dating back to the 16th century and uses only two
ingredients: cocoa and sugar. The mixture never gets hot enough
to melt the sugar crystals, which gives the chocolate its signature
course texture.
The Salty Dad
Bacon
We stock a grand selection of the baco-
niest bacons around. Whether you go for
classic deli all-stars like Nueskes Applewood
Smoked Bacon, or Arkansas Peppered Bacon, or you
opt for an adventurous bacon like the Hungarian Smoked Bacon,
its bacon and it will be loved.
Landjaeger
If your dad passes on the bacon, its likely that he is actually a
landjaeger man at heart. Go for the Usinger's Landjaegers. They
are deliciously snackable and satiable for any salt loving dad.
Peanut Brittle
This is the perfect gift for the sweet-toothed,
salt-loving dad. Featuring jumbo runner
peanuts, which have been roasted in a pot
of deeply caramelized sugar, and combined
with butter, vanilla and a touch of sea
salt. One bite and your dad wont want to
share this addictive blend of crunchy, salty,
sweet, and nutty!
The Spicy Dad
Spice Trekkers - Book and Spice Kit
If Dad loves to experiment in the kitchen with a wok or make
his famous chili or stew, these spices will keep him intrigued for
quite some time. The book is full of great recipes and the spice
kit is very well-rounded. A great way for an adventurous Dad to
discover something new that he likes.
NEW! Zingermans Potato Chips
Spices decide. Spuds abide. Michigan
Potatoes and world class spices living in
harmony. We've combined Great Lakes
Potato Chips of Traverse City with spices
from pices de Cru. Grab all three for your
pops to try Detroit St. BBQ, French Grey
Salt, and Tellicherry Black Pepper itll
be a full-flavored snack that he can't get
enough of.
The Snappy Dad
Espresso Blend #1
For the quintessential coee-drinking Dad, the one whos always
got his thermos in-tow. We brew Zingermans Coee Co. Espresso
Blend #1 daily at the Deli as our house blend. It really shines in
our latts, macchiatos and specialty coee drinks! Sweet and rich
bodied, with notes of bittersweet chocolate and a hint of hazel-
nut. The long nish is tantalizing on the tongue!
Zingermans Travel Mugs
Dad can keep his coee hot for hours in our spill-proof travel
mug - stylish stainless-steel with an etched Zingermans logo. A
free coee beverage comes complimentary with purchase.
The Sandwich Dad
Make a Reuben Kit
There's nothing like playing Zingermans Deli in your very own
kitchen. Stock Dads pantry with everything he needs to make
our nationally renowned Zingermans Reuben at home in his own
castle. Youll need a loaf of Jewish Rye bread, Zingermans Corned
Beef, The Brinerys Sauerkraut, real Swiss cheese, and some of
our housemade Russian dressing. Grab a jar of our very own pick-
les to complete the feast. If youre lucky, Dad will share and make
you a sandwich, too.
Celebrate with usat Greyline happy hour
Havent been able to stop in and see Zingermans newest event space yet? Looking for a place to hang out with your friends
thats conveniently right downtown? If you havent experienced it for yourself already, were hosting monthly Happy
Hours at Zingermans Greyline!
Pop in and see us right on the corner of Huron and Ashley Streets in downtown Ann Arbor for some great drink specials and a rotat-
ing snack menu. Theyre always free to attend, but feel free to RSVP on our website or Zingermans Community site to receive a reminder
email. The dates change every month, so keep an eye on our e-newsletter, Facebook or Instagram to find out when the next one is!
Call 734-230-2300 if you have questions and well see you soon! ZingermansGreyline.com
Available at the Deli,
starting at 11am all month long!
May
Spring Chicken Plate $14.99
April showers bring MayAsparagus! We're pairing spring's
perennial spears, harvested locally, with a roasted half
chicken, basted in fresh herbs and olive oil. A hearty helping
of creamy mashed potatoes completes the trio.
june
Dueling Chili Dogs $13.99
In homage to a Michigan tradition: Double your fun with two
hot dogs smothered in house-made grass fed beef chili and
minced onions. Served with a side of crispy Zingtaters.
May
Two Roses and a Pig Called Daikon $14.50/each
Craving something simple, but satisfying? We can make that
happen! Uncomplicated ingredients, each with their own depth,
come together to create a delightful springtime sandwich.
Arkansas peppered ham, salty farm butter, tomato slices, and
a lot of spicy radish shoots from Black Pearl Gardens on soft
bakehouse white bread.
June
Hangry Henry's Fish and Chips $15.99/each
"I once ate a sandwich that was THIIIIIIIIIIS big!" A sandwich
to share stories about, we took the definitive deli classic pair
of tuna salad and cheddar, and ramped it up. Salty, creamy,
crunchy this sandwich is the epitome of fun and flavorful.
Tuna salad, cheddar cheese, ranch dressing, Zingerman's potato
chips on grilled Zingerman's Bakehouse True North bread.
Out of this
World Moms!
Our shelves are filled with mom-thrilling confections
and as always, we are ready to assist you in finding
the perfect gift. Dote on mom with a customized box of
unique truffles, bonbons, and caramels selected from
our diverse offerings from near and far, traditional to
wild. Youll find Next Door staff ready to offer sugges-
tions and share how they are spoiling their moms this
Mothers Day.
Available only for Mothers Day!
We are now taking orders for Chocolate
Dipped Palmiers. Treat mom to buttery,
flaky heart-shaped palmier cookies
hand-dipped in decadent dark chocolate
at Zingermans Bakehouse. What better
way to say I love you? These sell quickly
so pre-order yours today in the Next
Door or call 734-663-5282. These
special seasonal treats are
available for pick-up
5/12, 5/13 & 5/14.
ISSUE # 260 MAY-JUN 2017
11
 Now Using 1o0% organic
AlL Purpose Flour

Were super excited to announce that as of April 1st, 2017 the artisan all purpose wheat flour we use in our baking is 10o% organic.
(Thats a mouthful!) This is a huge change for us. Were thrilled to have made it and to let you know about it.

W
e use many different grains and flours at the bakery, but we
use exponentially more all purpose (AP) flour than any other
ingredient, which makes this switch a radical one. We began
experimenting with our new flour in January, reworking our hun-
dreds of recipes to reflect its particular properties. Yes, not all AP
wheat flour is exactly the same. Our new organic flour has a differ-
ent protein content, enzyme activity and absorption rate (stuff that
professional bakers are concerned with), which means we need to
use different amounts of it to make our breads and pastries as we
all enjoy them. Its true, basic flour is a complicated ingredient.
Now all of the adjustments are made and the only AP wheat flour
we have in the bakery is organic. Enjoy!
Why now? Were almost 25 years old and just like many 25-year
old humans we are energized, learning and interested in continu-
ing to change and grow. The possibilities of the future seem limit-
less and using more organic ingredients is one of them.
We have considered using organic flour off and on for years.
There is much that is compelling about it, the most obvious
being that its better for our environment! At times, the sup-
ply wasnt reliable enough so we didn't move forward.
At times, we were more motivated to do other work that we
thought would more greatly impact the flavor of our food. It was
always on the list though. Almost exactly a year ago Frank, co-
managing partner and Bakehouse founder, said that it was time.
He felt strongly that we had to make the leap for value reasons,
for our world, and that we would figure out how to manage all
of the challenges that would come with the change later. With
value-based decisions, we often have to throw away our rational
approach to the decision-making process and go with the idea, Its
the right thing to do. We can re-engage with analytical thought,
spreadsheets and cost calculations when figuring out how to make
it work. So the team began planning and here we are today, a year
later with the switch completed.
Whos milling our organic AP Flour and where are they sourc-
ing the grain? Lindley Mills, based in central North Carolina, is our
partner in this project and we couldnt have found a partner more
aligned with us in terms of commitment to great food and restoring
traditional methods. We have actually been working with Lindley
since 1996, buying their germ-restored flour, which many of us
enjoy in our Pane de Montagne.
They have a mission and vision that we find completely compelling.
Their stated mission is...to provide the best organic flour to our
customers. Our milling approach is a blend of tradition, technol-
ogy, and cutting-edge innovation. This is what sets Lindley Mills'
organic flours apart from the rest, and what continues to fuel our
passion for producing some of the highest-quality organic flours in
the United States.
Joe Lindley has been milling since 1976. Amazingly, his mill is locat-
ed at the original site of the 1755 water mill built by Pennsylvania
Quaker and settler, Thomas Lindley. Today, tenth-generation
Lindleys still run Lindley Mills, keeping the tradition of their fam-
ily going.
They have developed a network of growers from all across the
United States. Their ability to source the highest quality wheat
from diverse geographical regions allows their organic flours to be
consistent and performance-driven, which means we will be able
to make great breads and pastries with it everyday.
What other organic ingredients do we use at the Bakehouse?
Are we planning on using more? When we choose ingredients we
have many criteria to considerflavor, availability, organic status,
location, non-GMO, handling and transportation requirements,
and yes, cost. Flavor trumps all, though!
Right now the other organic ingredients we use include many
grainsgerm restored flour, brown rice flour, buckwheat flour,
7-grain mix, cracked wheat flour, Pane Nero (tumminia) flour, corn-
meal, spelt flakes, and a few other items, like Mindo unsweetened
chocolate and Majoub olive oil.
Were now contemplating changing more of our most used ingre-
dientssugar, butter, and eggs to organic versions. Our most
likely next step may be to switch to organic white granulated sugar.
Were using local, fresh, cage free eggs, although not organic, were
very happy with them and our partners in dairy the local family
owned Guernsey Dairy. We love our Wisconsin butter but well
probably assess whats available in the organic world. It would
be great to have full-flavored butter that happens to be organic.
Perhaps its out there now.
What else are we going to do with our 25 year old energy and
enthusiasm? In September, well be unveiling a recipe book weve
been working on for two years, and next winter, were going to re-
model our retail shop. Stay tuned!

Amy Emberling
For more information about this change visit: zcob.me/flourpower Bakehouse Managing Partner

A Good Market in a Good Town

Check out a few of the vendors
arketplaces date back to ancient times as a way for people to sell their wares, but also to come together in the community. we are welcoming this year!
M The Greek word Agora, referring to any market in ancient Greece, literally translates to gathering place.

The first recorded use of the English term market actually dates
back as early as 963c.e., in the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle created dur-
ing the reign of Alfred the Great. The publication was distributed
through English monasteries. The exact phrase used was Ic wille
t markete beo in e selue tun, which roughly translates as I
want to be at that market in the good town.

And what a good town Ann Arbor is, so why wouldnt we want a
place for everyone to come together? While we might not haggle
over goods as consumers did in ancient times, marketplaces pro-
vide us with the sense of community today that they did back then.
5000 years ago, farmers in Egypt would sell their fresh produce
along the Nile. Thousands of years later, they still offer an oppor-
tunity to shorten the supply chain and promote access to fresh,
local food. They also give friends and neighbors a way to meet
up. So, gather your coins and hitch up your oxen to join us every
Thursday at the Westside Farmers Market!

The Westside Market came together in 2005 by a group of volun-

teers in the Ann Arbor community to bring really great local food
to really great local people. With a focus on farming and quality
product, the market invites the producers to sell directly to you!
Not only does Westside support local businesses and farms, but
we provide entertainment and demonstrations that are engaging
and fun, and an educational component about great food.

Marcy Harris These are just a few of the 30-40 businesses who will visit
Marketing Manager
us throughout the season, so come by and see more of your
Zingerman's Roadhouse
neighbors and their labors of love for yourself!

12 ISSUE # 260 MAY-JUN 2017

 We have made some great specialty breads
MAY & JUNE and pastries over the years that developed
their own followings. We bring them back for
a weekend here and there just for fun!
If youre looking for a litte adventure, check
out this calendar.

Were still glowing here in the ZCoB (thats the Zingermans Community of Businesses) from the amazing annual visit of
may
the de Vienne family who drove down from Montreal last month to spend a week with us sharing their terrific spices
and great travel stories. While they were here, they taught tasting classes at the Deli, cooked an Indian spice dinner FLUTED BRIOCHE BREAD - 5/5 & 5/6
at the Roadhouse, and worked at Miss Kim helping to roll out some new spice-centric specials. This is our third annual
Spice Week at Zingermanseach time the de Viennes make their way here, we learn a LOT!
CHOCOLATE DIPPED PALMIERS - 5/12
CRANBERRY PECAN BREAD - 5/12 & 5/13
Here are two special spring spice featuresone Id never heard of until their visit, and another that Id mistakenly
ignored for way too many months. Having had the chance to taste and test the two regularly for the last few weeks, POTATO DILL BREAD - 5/19 & 5/20
I can tell you that both are beyond terrific. Seriously excellent and exceptionally easy ways to enhance the quality
of your daily eating. GREEN OLIVE PAESANO - 5/26 & 5/27
BLUEBERRY BUCKLE - 5/26-5/29
mAy - Spanish Paprika Flakes
This is the one I never knew about. Having been around great food for many decades now its hard to believe Ive june
never even heard of paprika flakes! My loss. Now having tasted these totally terrific ones from pices de Cru, theyll
likely find a place on my dining table (alongside the new Korean chili flakes were also getting from the de Viennes) BACON PECAN SANDY COOKIES - 6/2
for an everyday addition to pretty much every meal.
PEPPERED BACON FARM BREAD - 6/2 & 6/3
Whats the story? Simple really. Paprika is basically just ground dried chile. The better the quality of the chile (and
also the quality of the grinding and storage), the better the paprika. Different chile varieties, of course, have different BACON CHEDDAR SCONES - 6/2-6/4
flavors. And the terroirthe impact of the soil on the plants that grow in italso make a difference. The same chile
variety grown in different places will have different flavors. Paprika flakes are the interim step between the chiles
CHERNUSHKA RYE BREAD - 6/9 & 6/10
being dried as whole pods and the fine grinding that turns them into paprika (aka, ground chile). (To grind them fully CINN-OH-MAN - 6/16-6/18
would also require that they be dried further than they are for flakes.) Essentially, paprika flakes are small, broken,
bite-sized pieces of delicious, dried chile. SOMODI KLACS
CINNAMON SWIRL BREAD - 6/16-6/18
How do you use them? Couldnt be easier! Open the tin and sprinkle them on anything. Salads, soups, spaghetti, sand-
wiches, stews... roasted vegetables, rice dishes, even on toast. Its all terrific. The aroma and flavor blew my mind: BLACK OLIVE FARM - 6/23 & 6/24
dark chocolate, irony-earthiness, a hint of dried cherries. Its musky, magical, with a tiny touch of sweetness. Not
particularly spicy, the paprika flakes are sensual, subversive, superb. Try them today! ROSEMARY BAGUETTES - 6/30-7/2
BLUEBERRY BUCKLE - 6/30-7/4
June - Staff Barbecue Spice
This is the one I wrote off, unjustly, for its rather run of the mill moniker. The de Viennes label it Staff BBQ spice
reserve your special bakes today!
which, to me, sounded more on the mundane side of things. My mistake. The stuff is marvelous! calL 734.761.2095
It first really caught my attention last fall when Rodger Bowser, one of the partners at the Deli, had the devilishly
excellent idea to start designing and developing our own line of potato chips in conjunction with the folks at Epices
de Cru. Great idea, right? Really good locally made chips seasoned with world class spices? What could be bad? After
dozens of tests, one of the winnersand one of three varieties we have on the shelf todaywas the BBQ chips. If you
havent tried the chips yet make it a high priority to tear open a bagtheyre pretty great. (Tellicherry Black Pepper
and French Gray Sea Salt are the other two flavors.)
May
The BBQ spices excellence on the chips got me to take a closer look at what Id naively not paid attention to. Just a
quick look at the ingredient list was enough to set my mind spinning. No jokethis stuff has 22 different herbs and HUNKA BURNIN' LOVE CHOCOLATE CAKE
spices, including New Mexico chile flakes, chipotle, black cardamom, red Sichuan pepper, majoram, cumin, smoked Our dense buttermilk chocolate cake covered in rich Belgian
paprika, and then the two kickers: ground dried tangerine peel and lavender! The complexity and character it imparts chocolate butter cream. Customers have been known to fall
is something special. in love with it. Enjoy this cake responsibly, at room tempera-
ture. Your patience will be rewarded with ideal texture and
As with most of the pices de Cru spices, the Staff Barbecue spice needs to be ground or pounded with mortar and maximum flavor.
pestle. It takes only a minute or two of extra effortits worth it! It releases the essential oils right before you use
it. As per its name, you can use it on anything youre going to grill (amazing on shrimp!). You can also sprinkle onto
salads and it makes an incredible pot of chili. Oh yeahif youre curing your own bacon, this would be a terrific
june
seasoning to spread on the raw pork!
MISSISSIPPI MUD PIE
An intense brownie-like chocolate cake covered in rich dark
chocolate ganache, toasted meringue and a drizzle of choco-
late sauce. Try it warmed up and pack your bags for choco-
holic heaven.

now $4.75/ea,
May Was $6.49/ea

FARM LOAF
Imagine sitting around a French farmhouse table waiting
for dinner to be served. This would be the bread they'd
bring out. It has a thick crust and a soft white chewy
interior with a flavor that tastes of toasted wheat.

june
RUSTIC ITALIAN ROUND
One of our best selling breads for its versatility. This Italian
bread has a beautiful white crumb and a golden brown
crust. From panini to PB&J, its the that bread does it all!

ISSUE # 260 MAY-JUN 2017

13
 foR thE suMmer
Zingermans Mail Order has a slew of pasture-raised fresh meats available to ship across the
country, just in time for Memorial Day, Fathers Day, or an especially beautiful Tuesday. Its
difficult to cook a thick cut of meat period, let alone over a fire. Heres how Ive learned to get
a good outcome, borrowing a couple tips from the pros:
Salt early and plentifully. A day or more ahead of time is great if you can. Give it plenty of
time to penetrate.
Brown the cut on the grill, then put it on a hot pan in an oven.
Take the temperature with your finger (pro style, feeling when its done) or with a meat
thermometer (Mos safe style, plugging the thickest part of the meat).

Dry-Aged Cowboy Cut Ribeye Steaks from Carman Ranch

The cowboy cut has a couple inches of bone sticking out, giving you a handle to hold onto.
The steaks are dry-aged for two weeks, creating huge flavor with a deep mineral tang. This is
a big, beautiful steak, the most flavorful we offer. Like all our steaks, it's entirely grass-fed like
a cow should be, but features the marbling of corn fed beef. Bone in, 2 inches thick, serves an
army of eaters.

Ibrico de Bellota Secreto Pork from Spain Grass-Fed Tri Tip Steak from Carman Ranch
The secreto is a coveted shoulder cut prized in Spain and Portugal. Its like the pork version of a
The tri tip is a triangular cut of beef thats nicely marbled, intensely flavorful, and a little tricky to
ribeye steak. Ibrico hogs gobble up acorns (bellotas), giving the meat an incredibly rich, beefy
cook. Overdo it and it can get dry and unappealing. But grilled to a perfect medium, its juicy and
flavor. While 99% of the Ibrico de bellota pork on the market is cured, these secreto steaks are
makes for stupendous eating. From pasture raised, grass-fed and grass-finished cattle that are never
fresh and marbled with the bellota-fed fat that melts in your mouth in a way thats almost surreal.
given hormones or antibiotics, and only harvested in the summer when the cattle are at their plump-
Exceptional.
est and the beef is the most flavorful.

Red Wattle Porterhouse Chops Heritage Meats Grill Kit

Our heritage Red Wattle breed porterhouse pork chops are over an inch thick and look like a T-bone
Everything you need for a grilling bender. This is a gift for a serious, conscientious and flavor-loving
steak. The flavor is famously sweet, in part due to a luscious band of melting fat. Great on the grill,
cook. Easy to prepare, super delicious when done; the hardest choice youll have to make is what to
they also cook up fantastically on the stove top (I like to brown a chop on the grill then put it in the
eat first. Includes: Heritage St. Louis-Style Pork Spareribs, a grass-fed Beef Tri Tip, grass-fed Ground
oven to finish). From pastured pigs that root and roam and never receive hormones or antibiotics.
Beef, plus a bottle of fabulous barbecue sauce.
Mo Frechette
Managing Partner
Zingerman's Mail Order

See alL grilLing meats availabLe online at zingermans.com

THE FEED
THE FEED THE SECRET LIFE OF AMAZING FOOD AT ZINGERMANS
AT ZINGERMANS
didnt have money to buy me shoes. But there was always bread, always salami, always nduja.

AT ZINGERMANS
OF AMAZING FOOD AT ZINGERMANS Agostino raised his family in Chicago, where for more than thirty years hes made a living running a
restaurant. Tony started working at the restaurant at age 12, and later moved onto other restaurants
in Chicago, including the famed pork palace, Publican. While there, he started making charcuterie. A
few years ago, Tony broke out on his own and launched his company, Nduja Artisans, with his father.

Tony's nduja starts with heritage-breed pork and chiles imported from Calabria
His classic recipe features Berkshire pork. Berkshire is one of the most popular heritage breeds with
If youve gone out to eat or looked at menus for restaurants in New York City in the last few years,
chefs. Its tender and has big flavorto me, its especially porky. Tony gets his Berkshire pork from
theres a good chance youve noticed one ingredient show up again and again: nduja. Its everywhere.
a collection of family farms in southwest Minnesota. The pigs live free range, roaming and rooting as
In egg dishes, on burgers, with pasta, with vegetables, with fish or shellfish, with cheese. Its status
they please, spending their days outdoors as the weather permits. They never receive subtherapeutic
as the darling ingredient of hip chefs is remarkable to me because a few decades ago it was all but
antibiotics or growth-promoting hormones.
unknown in the US.

Berkshire isnt the only pig in town, though. Once in a while, Tony gets his hands on Ibrico de bellota
What the heck is nduja, anyway? pork from the famous black-footed Ibrico pigs of southern Spain. The heritage breed of heritage
Nduja (pronounced en-doo-ya) is soft, spreadable cured pork, spiked with plenty of chiles. In the
breeds, these hogs rest in oak forests, eating as many acorns (bellotas in Spanish) as they can. The
charcuterie world, nduja falls into the category of spreadable salamis (I promise thats a real thing).
acorn diet has a magical effect on the pigs fat. When the meat is cured, that fat practically melts on
Mmm, spreadable meatcant you just picture Homer Simpson mumbling it? You might think of it as
your tongue. Made into nduja with its high fat content, the effect is amplified. The texture is even
spicy pork butter, though theres no dairy involved.
silkier than usual, the flavor deeper and more intense, with a heat that slowly builds and builds. Its
heady stuff.
It starts out like salami: raw pork and pork fat are mixed together with seasonings, then hung to cure
for several weeks. Like all salamis, nduja was traditionally made with the meat left from butchery. The
Of course, with the recent nduja craze, Tonys not the only one making it. One less traditional
difference that makes salami solid and nduja spreadable is in the proportions. Most salami is about
approach comes from the pork curing masterminds at La Quercia in Iowa. Rather than make their
75-80% lean meat and 20-25% fat. Nduja is the opposite. All that extra fat makes the texture luscious
nduja with raw pork, they begin with the trimmings leftover from their prosciutto, speck, and coppa,
and spreadable.
after the meat has cured for months. While theres still plenty of spice involved, the smooth, savory
flavor of the cured pork carries through.
A few decades ago, nduja was all but unknown outside its hometown of Spilinga in Calabria, the
region in the toe of Italys boot. Calabria has long been known for its fruit and spicy chiles. Nduja is a
more recent export. In fact, the nduja we get today isnt an export at allin the US its illegal to import
Eight ways to use nduja this weekend:
1. Spread some on an egg sandwich
Italian salami, so essentially all of the Italian-style salamis you see at the store are made right here
2. Stir it into tomato sauce for pasta or to top a pizza
in the states. Maybe nduja stayed a secret because of those tricky export laws or maybe the people
3. Smear some in a grilled cheese or on a burger
of Spilinga just wanted to keep it all for themselves. But eventually word got out, and over the last
4. Add a spoonful or two to an omelet
decade its been making a big impression in the food world. Its no surprisetasting nduja for the first
5. Melt some in a pan to add to broccoli or Brussels sprouts
time is a memorable event. Theres the punch of spice, the unctuous richness, the silky texture, the
6. Rub it under the skin of a chicken before roasting
deep, savory meatiness. The Wall Street Journals Jane Black said: If Joan Jett were an Italian, and a
7. Whisk a dollop into a rich, spicy vinaigrette
sausage, shed be nduja. Val Neff-Rasmussen
8. Simmer it in a broth with mussels or clams Marketing Specialist
Zingerman's Mail Order
Our nduja is made by Tony Fiasche, a fifth-generation nduja maker
Tonys grandparents owned a butcher shop near Spilinga. Tonys father, Agostino, was born there and
The Feed is a deeper look into the foods we sell at Zingermans. Each issue focuses on one
grew up helping his father in the shop. As a boy he remembers breaking down whole hogs and grind-
product. Find more stories online at thefeed.zingermans.com
ing meat by hand with a cranknot like we do today! he recalls. Growing up, he says my parents

14 ISSUE # 260 MAY-JUN 2017

 May AdventurEs
MAY 7th
Brewing Methods 12-2pm
Learn the keys to successful coffee brewing
using a wide variety of brewing methods from
filter drip to syphon pot. This tasting session
will explore a single coffee brewed 6 to 8 dif-
ferent ways, each producing a unique taste. A
demonstration of the proper proportions and
techniques for each method and a discussion
of the merits and differences of each style will
take place.
$30/person
MAY 20th
Mambo Italiano:
Italian Breads baking class 8am-5pm
In Mambo Italiano, well take you on a bread-
baking tour across Italy and youll return home
with loads of Paesano, Rustic Italian, focaccia,
and sesame semolina breads and the skills to
make them any time you want to satisfy the
craving for an Italian holiday.
$250/person
Lookin for Camp Bacon Events?
HEAD OVER
HEAD OVER TO
JUNE 1st
Cheese 101 6-8pm
A delicious introduction into the world of
cheese! Join Tessie, our resident Certified
Cheese Professional, as she guides you through
the seven major styles of cheese. She'll talk
about what makes each style unique, provide
samples of each, share tips for building a well-
rounded cheese board, and give tips on the
basics of pairing cheese with beer and wine.
$30/person
JUNE 18th
Comparative Cupping 12-2pm
Sample coffees from Africa, Central and South
Americas, and the Asian Pacific. We will taste
and evaluate these coffees using the tech-
niques and tools used by professional tasters.
This is an eye-opening introduction of the
world of coffee.
$30/person
MAY 9th
Kentucky Dinner #208:
In the Spirit of Bourbon and Cheese 7pm
Cheese and bourbon both get better with age, and
the Roadhouse welcomes you to savor the best
of these delights with our upcoming Kentucky
Special Dinner. This multi-course regional
meal will include dishes featuring cheese from
Kennys Farmhouse and bourbon pairings!
More info on page 9.
$95/person
MAY 21st
Comparative Cupping 12-2pm
Sample coffees from Africa, Central and South
Americas, and the Asian Pacific. We will taste
and evaluate these coffees using the tech-
niques and tools used by professional tasters.
This is an eye-opening introduction of the
world of coffee.
$30/person
TO PAGE
PAGE 33 FOR
FOR THE
THE CAMP
CAMP BACON
BACON EVENTS
EVENTS LINEUP
LINEUP
June hAPpeNin's
JUNE 4th
Brewing Methods 12-2pm
Learn the keys to successful coffee brewing
using a wide variety of brewing methods from
filter drip to syphon pot. This tasting session
will explore a single coffee brewed 6 to 8 dif-
ferent ways, each producing a unique taste. A
demonstration of the proper proportions and
techniques for each method and a discussion
of the merits and differences of each style will
take place.
$30/person
JUNE 20th
Special Fish Dinner #210: An Evening
with Barbara Lynch 7pm
A big fish brings big flavors to Zingermans! For
our annual fish dinner, Zingermans Roadhouse
will welcome Barbara Lynch, James Beard Award
winning restaurateur and one of the countrys
leading chefs. Her cooking talent and connection
with local fish culture in Boston will be tasted in
every bite of the incredible menu she will have
for us.
$75/person
MAY 11th
Just for Kids: Explore the
World of Jams and Preserves 6-7pm
Learn about the differences between jam and
preserves, hear stories about our favorite jam
makers, and learn about interesting types you
may not have tried before (how about tomato
jam?) Well taste them all! There is no cost for
parents to fully participate or lurk in the back-
ground. All participants will also receive a 20% off
coupon to use that evening for dinner or shop-
ping at the Deli.
$15/kid
MAY 23rd
Sundae Social 4-7pm
Were throwing a Sundae Social on the Deli Patio!
Our Next Door sweet treat experts will help
you make a custom designed sundae featuring
gelato from Zingermans Creamery and fabulous
toppings from various Zingerman's businesses.
Our party fun will also include fun activities for
kids of all ages. No reservation required but
please make sure to bring your sweet tooth!
freE! (sundaes for purchase)
JUNE 16th
Zingermans Classics
hands-on baking class 1-5pm
Make our Jewish rye bread, black magic brown-
ies, and hummingbird cake. Find out what a rye
sour is and the secrets behind our rye bread's
flavor. Well serve our deli meats and sandwich
fixins' to go with your bread and end the class
with iconic Zingermans treats: a sandwich, a
pickle, a brownie and a toast to many years of
great customers.
$125/person
JUNE 22nd
Just for Kids: Explore the
World of Candy 6-7pm
Our sweet treat experts will tell you why the
candy we sell at Zingermans Deli is so special.
Youll learn all about our favorites, hear some
stories about our favorite candy makers, and
learn about some of our more interesting
selections. Best part of the class - were gonna
eat some candy! All participants will receive a
20% off coupon for the Deli.
$15/kid
ISSUE # 260
MAY 15th
Special Event #209: Decadent
Chocolate and Divine Cocktails 7:30pm
Join us as we introduce Mindo Chocolate and
American Fifth Distillery for the sweetest event
at the Roadhouse yet, an evening of chocolate
and cocktail pairing. Bring your mother, a
friend, or someone who just enjoys chocolate
and really yummy drinks, but reserve your seat
soon so you dont miss out on an opportunity
to treat yourself!
$40/person
MAY 27th
Fondant Fondamentals:
hands-on decorating class 8am-12pm
In this class we take you through the steps of
making your own fondant that actually tastes
good. We'll show you the basic techniques for
coloring, shaping and cutting out fondant. Then
you'll split, fill, cover and decorate your own
cake to take home.
$125/person
JUNE 15th
Beer & Cheese Pairing 6-8pm
Do you know what beer to pair with perfectly
aged cheddar? We do! Join Tessie, our resident
Certified Cheese Professional and beer aficio-
nado, for an evening of tasting and exploration.
Well taste a wide range of beer styles paired
with beer-friendly artisan cheeses. Bread and
additional accompaniments from our Cream Top
Shop will be provided.
$35/person
JUNE 29th
Zingermans Creamery 101 6-8pm
A delicious introduction to the hand-crafted
Gelato and Cheese produced by our team at
Zingermans Creamery. Join Tessie, resident
Certified Cheese Professional, for an evening of
cheese and gelato tasting with notes about our
production methods and milk producers. Bread
and additional accompaniments from our Cream
Top Shop will be provided.
$30/person
MAY-JUN 2017
15