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TM11-2366 Photographic Equipment PH-383 1944
TM11-2366 Photographic Equipment PH-383 1944
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PHOTOGRAPHIC
-^EQUIPMENT
PH-383
par.
PHOTOGRAPHIC
EQUIPMENT
PH-383
public relations agencies. (See also par. 28, AR )So-t, ij Mar 1)44.}
WAR DEPARTMENT,
WASHINGTON 25, D. C., 5 OCTOBER 1944.
G. C. MARSHALL,
Chief of Staff.
OFFICIAL:
J. A. ULIO,
Major General,
The Adjutant General.
DISTRIBUTION :
1C 3, 5, (3).11
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Paragraph
SECTION I. Description.
Purpose 1 1
General description 2 1
Component parts 3 1
Unpacking 4 7
Installation 5 7
Operation 6 9
III. Maintenance.
General 7 17
Tank and tray thermometers 8 17
M5581Q7
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
WHAT 1. Smash Hard rubber boxes and tank, safelights, film hangers,
timers, roller, trimmer, thermometers, siphon, funnel,
cup, graduate.
2. Cut Changing bag, apron, siphon hose, lamp leads.
DESTROY EVERYTHING
TL9I804
SECTION I
DESCRIPTION
Quantity Article
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SECTION II
INSTALLATION AND OPERATION
5. INSTALLATION.
a. Darkroom Requirements. The first requirement of a darkroom is
that it be dark, with no white light leaking in to fog the negatives and
prints. While all white light should be excluded, safelights should be
arranged to give as much illumination as is possible without affecting the
sensitized material being handled (fig. 7). The second requirement is that
the necessary equipment and apparatus be arranged to allow the work to
progress in the most convenient and efficient manner with a minimum of
lost motion. This requirement is often overlooked, or at least improperly
handled, because of the many factors, such as temporary setups and limited
space, involved.
.J ^
. OPERATION.
a. Mixing of Chemicals. When mixing photographic solutions, fol
low the instructions issued with the formulas. The quantities and the order
of mixing ingredients have been established by extensive tests, and changing
them will affect the useful properties of the solutions. A convenient tool to
use in dissolving the last few particles of a chemical is the hard rubber rod
with a flat end (fig. 1 (19) ). Solutions should be stirred vigorously while
chemicals are being dissolved or when one liquid is being mixed with
another. Hypo and other very soluble chemicals form concentrated solu
tions which are considerably heavier than water; and, when water is added
to such solutions, stratification can and often does occur if stirring is
insufficient. A solution is not ready for use until it is completely uniform.
Most photographic chemicals are ground by the manufacturer before being
packaged, with the result that they contain a certain amount of very finely
powdered material. This floats in the air easily and during mixing operations
it will settle on anything nearby. Hence, powdered chemicals should not be
mixed or handled in the darkroom, or any place where the dust could get on
photographic film and paper, holders, trays, or other objects which later
come in contact with sensitized materials. Such dust may cause spots and
1. Trays PH-161. 12. Timer PH-29.
5. Lamps PH-207-A. 14. Cup PH-60.
9. Thermometer PH-28. 15 Chemical, developer.
10. Chemical, acid-fixing. 19. Rod PH-230.
10
streaks on film or paper handled in the same darkroom long after the
chemicals have been used up. Cleanliness in the darkroom is essential.
Solutions are bound to spill and splash occasionally, but, when they do,
they should be wiped up immediately and the spot washed with a wet cloth.
Otherwise, the solution dries and the resulting powders are thrown into the
air with every rub scrape, and can spoil a quantity of film and paper. It is
hard to lay down basic rules for mixing solutions, because a good deal de
pends on experience and the rest on common sense. However, here are a few:
(1) Rinse plate in clean, cold water and apply prints, emulsion side down.
(2) Remove water with Roller PH-204 (fig. 1 (24) ), using firm
excess
pressure to insure uniform contact between print and plate, thus insuring
high gloss. Small dull spots or "specks" in dried print indicate print was
not pressed or rolled on to plate with sufficient firmness, or that the rinse
water is not clean.
(3) "Ridging" in finished prints indicates drying has been too rapid. It is
essential that forced drying (electric fan) be preceded by an initial "setting
time" of 15 to 30 minutes, depending upon the temperature and humidity
of the atmosphere. Failure to allow this "setting time," prior to use of an
air blast on print-loaded plates, is likely to cause "Ridging" or to reduce
gloss, or both.
(4) Prints may stick to plate for various reasons. To correct this, check the
following features in the order named :
(Ji) Print Rinsing. If prints are not rinsed free from hypo solutions,
sticking and spots or dull areas may result. Emulsion on prints allowed to
soak overnight develops adhesive properties and is likely to stick to the
plate.
11
Figure I. Washing prints using Siphon PH-24J.
12
(c) Hypo. If old and weak, the hypo may cause sticking. A new bath
should be made up. Ideal operating temperature is 70 F, plus or minus 5.
(6) These plates never need be waxed unless to fill scratches resulting from
carelessness.
13
remain still, it is advisable to use a smaller stream of water. This is not a
disadvantage as plates and film wash much faster than prints. With sensi
tized materials varying so much in nature and size, it is difficult to recom
mend exact washing times. About 10 minutes is quite sufficient for films
and plates, but the permanganate test must be relied upon for the particular
paper the user prefers. Use the smallest tray and the shallowest level that
will do the work. The smaller the tray the quicker the water changes.
TL 91801
Figure ). Method of using Siphon PH-2+4 for washing prints and negatives.
14
24. Roller PH-204. 25. Plate PH-152-A.
B. Glossy print.
fiytre io. Ferrotyping prints using Hollar PH-2oj and Plate PH-IJ2-A.
15
HBHHHBT
16
SECTION
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