A Handbook of

COSMETICS
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. B.M. MITIIAL e
M.Pharm., Ph.D., MRPharmS
Professor of Pharmacy & Deputy Director
and
N.N. SAI{A
M.Pharm., Ph.D.
Professor of Pharmacy
and Group Leader (Head)

Birla Institute of Technolory and Science,

PII"ANI, India
 Preface
A thought to bring out a Handbook of Cosmetics has been in the
mind since 1950 when one of the authors (BMM) started teaching a
course on Perfume and Cosmetics to the B.Pharm. students of the then
Birla College, Pilani. The course was discontinued from 1964 when
Birla Institute of Technology and Science was for.med. However, a
course named, 'Cosmetic Science' has been reintroduced. Importance of
rs B N 8r - 8573r - 2 2 -5 the book on Cosmetics has been felt ever since. In the last 20 years or so
VPBN 48 the use of cosmetics has been continuously increasing so much so that
First Edition 2000 many colleges/universities have introduced courses in cosmetics. This
Reprint 2003 book intends to provide a hand book on cosmetics which may be
Reprint 2004 introducedin colleges.
Reprint 2005
Reprint The cosmetic products are classified and arranged according to their
2006
site of application and function. Though a general manufacturing proce-
dure is given but for special type of products, specific and separate
procedure is also given. Basic aspectsof quality control and evaluation
@2000 by authorsand publishers of products are also mentioned in each chapter.
All rights reserved. No pad and style of this book be repro-
ducedor transmitted,in any form, or by any means---lectronic, There is in the market good literature already existing. The subject
mechanical,photocopying,recordingor otheiwise,without prior matter is mainly from the student angle, and it is hoped that it rvill fulfil
permissionof the publishersand authors. that purpose besides providing handy literature to anyone interested in
the design and manufacture of cosmetics. Any suggestionby the readers
will be appreciated.
Publishedby
The authors express sincere gratitude to Mr C. Sreekhar of the
M K Jain for VALLABH PRAKASHAN Pharmacy Group for proof reading and Mr Sharwan Kumar Vajpayee,
AP-53A,Pitampura,DELHI-110088
Deputy Director's Office for help in word processingthe manuscript.
Phone:.27317755
e-mail : vallabh@vsnl.com
Pilani B.M. Mithal
13 April 2000 R.N. Saha
Rs 125 (in Delhi)
Rs 130 (outside Delhi)

Printed at
Nerv Gyan Offset Printers, Delhi

(iii)
 Contents
Preface lll

1. Cosmetics-An Introduction 1
I

2. The Skin 1l
3. Powders and Compacts 2l
4. Skin Colorants 39
5. Skin Creafns 6l
6. SunscreenPreparations 90
7. Hair 105
8. Hair CleansingPreparations 110
9. Hair Tonics r22
10. Hair Colorants r28
11. Hair Grooming Aids I4l
12. Hair Wavers, Curlers and Straighteners 152
13. Hair Removers 161
14. Shaving Preparations r69
15. Nail 118
16. Nail Lacquers and Removers r82
17. Auxiliary Products for Nails r93
18. Tooth and Oral Cavity 199
19. Dental Care Preparations 203
20. Mouthwashes 216

APPENDIX-I : Provisions of Drugs and Cosmetics Act 225

applicable to Cosmetics
APPENDIX-II : Most Often Used Ingredienrsof Cosmetics 231
APPENDTX-III: Bibliography 239
APPENDIX-IV : Model Questions 239
SUBJECT INDEX 255
(v)
 CHAPTER-1

An Introduction

The word 'cosmetics' arises from a Greek wotd 'kosmeticos' which

means to adorn. Since that time any material used for beautification or
improvement of appearanceis known as cosmetic. The urge to adorn
one's own body and look beautiful has been an urge in the human race
since the firibal days. Earlier both males and females were equal
competitors for improvement of appearance. Males decorated them-
selves with animal parts and vegetable leaves etc. while women did so
by wearing any coloured stones or, flowers round their neck and the
wrists. At a later stage they employed coloured earth for faces and
bodies and still later coloured ointrnents. Bangles and necklacesmade
of baked earth also becamecommon in the early civilization as well as
shells of various kinds obtained from nature. In digging up ancient
Egyptian tombs much light has fallen on the ancient practicesof beauti-
fication. Pharaohian tombs have revealed that coloured earths were like
malachite green. The copper ore was used as eye shadows. Lamp black
was commo,n too for eyes. For dyeing of hairs red was also practised.
The dancing ladies applied ointments perfumed with materials like myrrh
to head so that when they danced the perfumed ointment would flow
down their bodies emitting pleasant smell all over. 'I'he history also
records that when Jehu went to the town of Jezebel she painted her face
and looked out from window. The use of cosmetics in ancient Egypt
reached heights with the famous queen Cleopatra who tried to beguile
Caesar and Antony the Romans when they visited Egypt. Shakespeare
has summarized it by this line, "Had Cleopatra's nose been lgnger, the
shape of the world would have been different." The women of the world
feel inspired when they have a mental feeling that they are looking good'
Hence, the practice of adornment or improvement of appearancecontin-
ued unabated across the centuries. Various kinds of natural materials
were used for the purpose. The practice of use of cosmetics must have
grown to an appreciable extent becausethe British Parliament enacted a
Law in 1770, which still stands unrepealedand is as follows;
 A HANDBOOKOF COSMETICS Ch.I AN INTRODUCTION 3

"That all women of whatever age, rank, profession or degree whether All cosmeticsare formulatedas solids,semi-solidsor liquids. Their
virgins, maids or widows that shall from and after such Act impose formuladesignis very akin to drug dosageforms.
upon, seduce and betray into matrimony any of His Majesty's sub-
jects by the scents, paints, cosmetics, washes, artificial teeth, false cosilETtcs
I
hair, Spanish .wool, iron stays, hoops, high heeled shoes, bolstered
hips, shall incur the penalty of law in force against witchcraft and Skin Hair Nall
like misdemeanours and that such marriage upon conviction shall
stand null and void." Powders Creams Lotions Colourants
It is interesting to note that even materials like high heeled shoes, compacts tl
I'

I Lipsticks
artificial denture etc. are classed as materials of adomment. One won- ' Rouges Lacquers
ders how many females were so prosecutedand their marriagesnullified. Skinlotions
Astringent Laquer
It was an act of distinction between male and female subject5. Maybe lotions removers
the circumstances prevailing then were such that law was considered Vanisfingcreams Nail
essential. Cold creams polishes
All purpose
In modern days cosmetics are the rage and are considered to be creams Cuticle
essentialcommodities of life. The role of cosmeticsin everyday life met Face powders removers
and compacts,
greater acceptability after World War II. It was realized by social and Body powders,
medical scientists that cosmetics not only adore but they exercise psy- Prickly heat
powoers,
chological effect on users and specially on the skin. They keep the skin
Face pack
supple delaying the onset of wrinkling. They are also helpful in skin
infections and prevention of sunburns. Hail remover Hairwaveprep Shampoos Eye lashprep
In the last 3-4 decades the use of cosmetics has increased Depilatories Hairdressing Dyes Mascaras
Epilatories Hairconditioner Hairlotions Eyebrowpencils
exponentially not only among in females but the male population also Shavingprep. Dandrufflotions Kohls
indulges in their use. Hair dyes, powders, crearns are as popular with
Fig. l-l Classification
of cosmetics
males as with females. Most countries have now laws to control,
manufacture, labelling, sale etc. of cosmetics in such a way that use of Cosmetics for the Skin
cosmetics harmful to health is prevented. In India Drugs Act has been
The skin covers vast area of body and cosmetics are applied to many
renamed as Drugs and Cosmetics Act and contains some sections to
parts, most important part being the face. The skin cosmetics are
exercise control over cosmetics. -the
formulated in the form of solids, semi-solids and liquids. The solids
The cosmetics in general are external preparations and are meant to consist of powders with different degreesof flow and angle of repose or
be applied to external parts of the body. In other words they may be of compacts. The semi-solids may be emulsions or simple admixtures
applied to skin, hair and nails for the purposes of covering, colouring, and liquids are both monophasic and biphasic. The solid products
softening, cleansing, nourishing, waving, setting, mollification, preserva- consist of face powders, body powders, compacts and moulded products
tion, removal and protection. The cosmetics may be classified into 4 like lipsticks. Face powders which are applied to the face consist of
main groups namely- many ingredients besides covering agents like zinc oxide or titanium
(l) Cosmeticsfor Skin dioxide. They remove oily appearanceand give the face a smooth, dry
(2) Cosmetics for Hair and peach-like finish. The face powders as per their covering power are
(3) Cosmetics for Nails classihed as light, mediurn or heavy powders. Some face powers are
(4) Cosmetics for Hygiene (Dental, Bathing, etc.) slightly tinted on the pink side. Face powders are packed in elegant
plastic boxes with lids.
 4 6 HANDBOOK
oF COSMETICS
The other category of powders consist of body powders or talcum
powders which are applied to various parts of the body as well asto face
and possessa good degree ofslip or spreadability. The quantity ofbody
powders consurnedeach year is very high in comparison to face powders
and other cosmetics. In these powders particle size is very small and all
powders have large amounts of additives which provide and form the
base of the powder.
The compactsare round cakes of face powders generally with a slight
pinkish tint. They are applied with a matching piece of fabric which is
packed along with it. The compacts are prepared by compression of
face powders containing some binders like mucilage of gums, soapsetc.
and for application the piece of fabric is rubbed on the compact and then
applied to the face as per needs. They are mounted in rcund casesone
side of which is a mirror.
In addition to compacts, 'Cake Make ups' have also been patented.
Such cakes are dry and applied with a rnoistened pad. They contain
some oily/waxy components (l to 25Yo), pigments (about l0%), fillers
and water-soluble dispersing agents (l-13%). The fillers are talc, chalk,
etc. The same are applied with a moistened pad. They are preparedby
granulation followed by compression.
Sorne 'liquid powders' have also been marketed as replacement for
powders to whiten the shoulders,neck etc. for dances. phenazonewas at
one time used for this (20% solution) tinted with a water-soluble dye.
But use of phenazone on skin has raised eyes of dermatologists,their
application is also a handicap. Hence, liquid powders carne into vogue.
These are prepared with addition of glycerine (15%) to a face powder
base consisting of chalk, zinc oxide etc. They also contain aboul 600/o
water and viscosity is imparted by 0.5%oof rnethylcellulose. The colours
may be shadesof red, yellow or brown pigments.
An important category of skin cosmetics are the colouring agents
which are used generally for coloration of lips, cheeks, eyelids (eye
shadows) and mascarasfor eyelashesand eyebrow pencils. In colorants,
lipsticks are used by masseswhile other products are used very select-
ively. Lipsticks impart an attractive colour and looks to the lips. Lips
can also be made to look wider or narrower if it is applied intelligently
and artistically. The basewhich is coloured to produce lipsticks consists
of a judicious blend of oily and waxy materials, the important ones
being beeswax, carnauba wax, ceresin, paraffin wax, vaseline, etc. The
formula of each individual manufacturer varies. Some lipsticks include
some zinc oxide (2oh) or titanium oxide (l%) to impart some covering
Ch.l AN INTRODUCTION 5
power. Most lipsticks are prepared by moulding. To give a glossy
finish they may be exposed momentarily to small flame for the material
to melt and set quickly. This is said to impart glossy finish.
Next important category of colouring preparations are the rouges
which are generally applied to cheeks to make them look rosy since rosy
cheeks are considered to be indicators of good health. Rouges are
marketed as solid compacts or as wax, anhydrous or hydrous creams and
also as liquids. Compacts containing binders are prepared by compres-
sion or moulding. Generally soaps of ammonia-stearic acid and starch
are used. The colours have to be certified colours only under Drugs &
Cosmetics Act. In rouges an opaque base is more desirable' The bases
may contain about 5Vo zinc oxide for imparting opacity.
In cream-type rouges the anhydrous ones are prepared by vaseline,
kaolin etc. The cream rouges may be vanishing or cold cream type. The
liquid rouges are not very popular but all the same are marketed to some
extent. They fre prepared in mucilaginous solutions of hydrocolloids
like methylcellulose (2%) in water td which colour, preservatives,
perfumes etc., besideswetting agents are added.
The other coloured products are mainly for the areas of the eye
amongst which commonly used products are:
( 1) Mascaras(eyelashes)
(2) Eyeshadows(for eyelids)
(3) Eyebrow pencils (for outline of eyebrows)
(4) Kohls (eyelid inside)
Mascaras are used for darkening and increasing apparent length of
the eyelashesso as to increasebrightnessand expressivenessofthe eyes.
Mascaras are marketed as cakes, creams or liquids. These products
should be evenly applicable, should be non-sticking, should dry rapidly
and be absolutely non-irritant and non-toxic. The colours used are bone
black, carbon black or oil black. Fine powders of silver and aluminium
are also used though the same are costly now.
The most important and popular category of skin cosmetics are the
various kinds of creamsrand milks. The first cream in the world is said
to have been prepared by Galen in Rome for the royal ladies of the
Roman Empire. It was a'beeswax-boraxtype. It was a superior product
to the perfumed ointments which were applied until then. The water in
the cream improved its elegance,application and also had cooling effect.
Nowadays there is a plethora of formulae for creams and milks, all of
which are emulsion type. The creams and milks are mostly o/w type
products, but some w/o type products are also there' They are vanishing
 Ch.I AN INTRODUCTION 7
6 A HANDBOOK
OF COSMETICS
tanning. Westernpeopleor peoplewith light skins like their skins to
look slightly'tanned. Increasedtanning is also believedto take place
after ingestionof some materialslike methoxsalenor extractsof Anmi
magus.

Hair Preparations
Hair preparationsmay be functionally categorizedinto:
(l) Preparations for dressingand settingofhair
(2) Preparationsfor cleansing
(l) Cold creams
(3) Tonics
(2) Cleansing creams (4) Preparationsfor hair removal
(3) Cleansing milks (5) Preparations for colouring
(4) Cleansing lotions (6) Preparationsfor applicationto areaslike eyebrows,eyelids,
(5) Vanishing creams either for colouringor upkeep.
(6) Foundation creams The hair dressingincludesbrilliantinesas helps in combingof hair,
(7) Emollient creams hair wave products,hair settingand fixing prodiicts. The most important
(8) Skin conditioning creams hair dressingusedin India is the hair oil basedon vegetableor mineral
(9) AII purpose creams oils occasionallyclaiming to contain herbals. Brilliantinesare wrxy
(10) Moisturizing creams having preparationsconsistencyof vaselines. Hair creamswhich are
Sunburn Protection and Skin Tanning preparations emulsionsare more commondressingsin the westernworld.
Exposure of body to sunlight in moderateamounts may be beneficial Curly hair probablylooks more attractirlethan straight. Earlier hair
but excessive exposure causesdamage to various extents. It may cause: waving lvas achieved by hot iron or boiling in water. These gave
permanentcurls. Then waving was done by chemicalcomponentslike
(l) Irritability and depression
(2) Inflammation ammoniumhydroxidewith borax.
(3) Sepsis Many thiol compoundshave also been suggestedfor waving hair.
(4) Malignant growth Reducingagentsare also said to be helpful. Thesedays cold waving
(5) Movement of melanin from base layer to stratum corneum methodsare more commonlike pin perms,rollers etc. Somereducing
(6) Release of dilators causing erythrema lotions may also be used.
'
(7) Sunburns and skin diseases Shampooswhich are meant for cleansing of hair and scalp are
Ultraviolet part of sunrays is held to be most detrirnental for the skin. becomingvery popularin place of soapsused earlier for the purpose.
With the advent of syntheticdetergents,particularly the non-ionic type,
therehas beena boom in shampoos.Most shampoosare clear liquids.
But now creamand solid shampoosare also available.
Hair Tonics aresuspiciousproductsin the eyesof public,scientific
should be non-toxic, effectively absorb or reflect erythemogenic
light as well as non-scientific,becauseof the word 'tonics'. The preparations
without undergoing chemical change, must not decompose ii
underthis group includesomeperfumesfor applicationto hair as sprays,
and perspiration and should not be absorbed through skin. 'roisture
someglosseningagents,preparations for dandruff,seborrhoea,baldness
The sunscreen preparations are marketed as oir, lotions, powders, etc. Many productsare advertisedas growth promotersbut such claims
cfeams or only as solutions of dyes. Sunscreensalso speed up are suspiciouslylookedupon.
skin
 8 A HANDBOOK
OF COSMETICS
Hair Removers consist of depils and epils which remove the un-
wanted hair by dissolution of hair shafts or help it in pulling out.
Shaving creams which assist in hair removal by blades/ra"o., by soften-
ing the hair shaft of faces in males may also be distantly classified
in
this group.
Hair Dyes have become very common. Somehow grey hair has
been associatedwith old age. Nobody likes the black hair to turn grey
on his or her head and many people continuously use hair dyes for
The preparations used on eyebrows, eyelashesand eyelids are very
special products. The trade in them is of a very small order.
Cosmetics for Nails
The nails, in particular the nail plates of the fingers of hands and
feet, have been subjects of decoration. The main decoration is in terms
of shine or colour. The shine or polish is done by applicationof sorne
alrasive rnaterialslike stannic oxide or powdered silica and rubbing
with
a chamois leather. wax porishes with abrasivesare arso
"orrroon.
mo st popular nail d re s s i n gi s th e c o l o u re d n a i r l acquersor pol i shes
which give a coloured coating to the nail plates. Generally they
consist
of nitro celluloses, plasticizers, solvents and colours.
The nail polishesor lacquersshould be finely ground to distributethe
dye and should have hardnessand plasticity. corour should not alter on
keeping and when appried. Even drying shourd taiie prace within a few
minutes.
Enamel Removers have also come into market. They consist
of
mainly solvent capable of nitrocellulose dissolution. They may
be
marketedas such or as creams.
Nail creams are in fashion too. They are appried to brittre nails.
Cold, vanishing or all purpose creallts can also be applied.
: tooth paste is made pasty by addition of suitable additives. They
Nail Bleaches are employed to remove stains of tobacco or other
stains by oxidation or reductitrn: For oxidation hydrogen peroxide,
chlorine compounds;perboratesor peroxidesare used. For reduction
sulphiteswith dilute acid'are suitable.,
\-_
Ch;I AN INTRODUCTION 9
Nail White products are used for giving white edges. They are
marketed as pastes or creams containing zinc oxide, titanium oxide,
kaolin, colloidal silica etc.
Cuticle Removers are used for beautifiing nails and are available
in market. The shedding of outer dead cells by skin gives some grooves
around nails which detract the nail beauty. These are removable by use
of alkaline solutions in water by small plugs of cotton, Potassium
hydroxide is best for this purpose.
Dental and Oral Care Preparations
Such products are normally consideredas hygienic products but since
appearanceofteeth and good breath are consideredto be overall ingredi-
ent of a cosmetic personality, all kinds of products for cleansing of teeth
and mouth washes are generally formulated and marketed by cosmetic
companies. For design of such products one must be familiar with tooth
and gum structures. The teeth are the grinders located at the point of
entry of food matbrials in the body. The food which is being cut or
chewed by the teeth, its small particles get lodged into various junctions
between the teeth and between teeth and gums. These food crumbs if
not removed regularly may become pockets for microbes to grow.
Hence their dislodgement and removal is very essential for the safety,
Th" longevity and appearanceof the teeth. Historically teeth were cleaned
by use of stems of some trees. The fibres of stems provided abrasive
action and trees like Neem had antiseptic elements also. Messwah was
another such tree popular in India. The common tooth ailments are
tartar accumulation, gingivitis, dental caries and other minor kinds of
dental eating away by bacteria. So any product, paste, cake or powder
must have abrasive and antiseptic action besidesgood taste, flavour etc.
and medication, if necessary. The common types of dental preparations
are:
(l) Tooth pastes
(2) Tooth powders
(3) Dentifrices
The tooth pastes and powders are similar in composition except that
basically contain:
(l) Abrasives
(2) Fillers
(3) Antiseptic compounds
(4) Surface active agents/soaps
I
.lt
 l0 A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS

(5) Glycerine, hydrocolloids

(6) Flavouring agents
(7) Taste imparters
(8) Colours
The denfifrices are solid cakes and for application to teeth they rnay
be taken on tooth brushes in a moist state.
The mouthwashes are mainly solutions of antiseptic substanceswith
various other additives. The same are not very popular.
To get a comprehensive idea of the cosmetics the chart presentedon
page 3 of this book may be useful.
on the whole cosmetics are important group of consumer materials.
Their flavours or smells are very significant in their selection bv the
common man.
Evaluation and Quality Control
The cosmetics are very important. All the products should be
evaluated for their performance, ingredients, etc. It is also necessaryto
check whether the products have any sensitivity or toxic effects.
CHAPTER-2
The Skin
Since most of the cosmetic preparationsare meant to be applied on skin
for beautification, protection or other purposes,basic knowledge of the
skin and its functions is very much important for designing cosmetics
meant for specific purpose of the skin.
The skin, the heaviest single organ of the body, combines with the
mucosal lining of the respiratory, digestive and urogenital tracts to form
a capsule which separatesthe internal body structures from the external
environment. It not only physically protects the internal organs and
limits the passage of substances into and out of the body but also
stabilisestemperatureand blood pressurewith its circulation and evapo-
ration system.
For an averagesix-foot, 70-kg human, the skin surfacearea is 1.9 m2
and weighs about 2100 gms. A typical square centimetre of skin covers
l0 hair fcrllicles, 12 nerves, 15 sebaceousglands, 100 sweat glands,
3 blood vesselswith 92 cm of nervesand 3x106 cells.
Normally the skin is very smooth. However, due to aging and expo-
sure to heat and cold, sunrays,pressureand abrasion,dust and microbial
infection, etc. the srnoothnessmay be lost and the skin becomesrougher
and thicker. Aging also produces wrinklels on the skin surfaoe.
pH of the skin varies from 4 to 5"6 and refers to the pH of the film of
aqueous and other soluble materials present on the surface of the skin.
Sweat and fatty acids secretedfrom sebum influence the pH of the skin
surface. It is suggestedthat acidity of the skin helps in limiting or
preventing the growth of pathogensand other organisms.

Functions and Compositions of Skin

Skin performs several functions including containrnentof body fluids
and tissues; protection fi'om external stimuli like chemicals, light, heat
and cold, radiation etc.; reception of stimuli like pressure, heat, pain;
biochemical synthesis; metabolism and disposal of biochemical wastes;
regulation of body temperature;controlling of blood pressure.

ll
 Ch.z THE SKIN l3
t2 A HANDBOOKOF COSMETICS
underlying dermis of connective tissue. At the bottom of the dermislies
,""'6tin contains several chemical substanceswith specific functions the fatty, subcutaneous laYer.
like keratin, Iipids, fatty acids, proteinase,etc'
Human skin displays two main types. Hairy skin encloses hair
Keratin is produced from polypeptides in the cytoplasm of epidermal follicles and sebaceous glands, but there are no encapSulatedsense
cells by a high energy system at the granular layer of normal human organs. Glabrous skin of the palms and the soles is made of a thick
skin. epidermis with a compact stratum corneum, but the integuments lack
of hair follicles and sebaceousglands and the dermis supports encapsulated
Sebum is the product of the sebaceous glands and consists
triglycerides, free fatty acids, waxes, sterols, squalene and paraffins' sense organs
Free fatty acids are responsible for bactericidal and fungicidal activities.
A. The Epidermis
Skin also contains two essential fatty acids, called linoleic acid and
The multilayer envelope of the epidermis varies in thickness,depend-
arachidonic acid, which play an irnportant role in regulating the barrier
ing on cell size and the number of cell layers, ranging from about
functions.
0.g mm on the palms and the soles down to 0.06 mm on the eyelids.
Skin synthesizeson steroid, vitamin D3, that subsequentlygets con-
verted to the horrnone calcitriol which is important to normal calcium
I stratum
metabolism. corneum
I-l
in
A proteinase has been isolated which is believed to play a role
.,u,nn
modulating the inflammatory responseto cellular injury' epidermis
J

Anatomy and PhYsiologY Dermal

vasculature
T hehur nans k i n c o m p ri s e s o fth re e d i s ti n c tbutmutual l ydependent
an
tissues (Fig. 2-l), the stratified, avascular, cellular epidermis and Eccrinegland
duct

Ha ir
follicle
Ha ir of epidermis
Fig.2-2 Magnification
shaft Sebaceous Dermal
Stratum
corneum
srarru Arrectores vasculature Cells which provide epithelial tissue differ from those of all other organs
in that as they ascend from the proliferative layer of basal cells they
pilorum
muscle
Living change in an ordered fashion from metabolically active and dividing
epidermis
cells to dense, dead, keratinized protein' Downward, the epidermis
comprises of five distinct and separatelayers:
(l) The horny tayer (Stratum corneum) : At the final stage of
differentiation, epidermal cells construct the most superficial layer of the
epidennis, the stratum corneum. Human beings owe their ability to
survive in a non-aqueousenvironment to the almost impermeablenature
of this refractory horny layer. on the general body areasthe membtane
provides about 10-15 layers of much flattened, keratinized de_ad-cells,
ttu"king them in highly organised units of vertical columns. The horny
Subcutaneous
fatty tissue laye. may be only l0 pm thick when dry, but swells in water to several
times this thickness. However, at friction surfaces of the body like
SLrbcutaneous
vasulature palms and soles the thickness may be as high as seyeral hundred
micrometres. When dry it is a very dense tissue' about i '5 gmlcrn3'
ofthe skin
Fig. 2-l Schematiccross-section
14 A HANDBOOK
oF COSMETICS
Ch-2 THE SKIN 15
Each thin polygonal cell measures approximately 0.5 to l.5 pm thick,
with the diameter ranging from 34 pm on the foreheadto 46 pm on the Human beings constantly shed the outermost layers of the stratum
thigh axilla. corneum as lipid-soaked horny flakes with an average daily loss from
At normal relative humidities, a normal stratum corneum can take up the whole body surface of 0.5 to 1.0 kg.
moisture upto I 5-20% of its dry weight. But in water logged condition The stratum corneum plays a crucial role in controlling the percuta-
water content of sorne areas of, the body can be several times of the dry neous absorption of chemical substances. The selective permeability of
weight. When occlusive dressing or c.reamsare applied over skin, the its elegant structure provides a central theme in many aspectsof design
stratum corneull can become highly hydrated due to prevention of of cosmetics.
natural evaporation of water. By this process some substancesmay
(2) Stratum lucidum : In the palm of the hand and the sole of the
become more soluble in it as well. Conversely as the stratum corneum
foot, an anatomically distinct, poorly staining hyaline zone forms a thin,
dries out it becomes brittle. Thus the ultradry, inelastic tissue tends to
translucent layer immediately above the granular layer. This region is
split when stretched causing conditions like chapped lips, windburn and
the stratum lucidum. The cells are non nuclear.
dishiran hands.
One can distinguish two types of horny layers by anatornic site, (3) Stratum granulosurn (granular layer) : This layer is above the
function and structure. The horny pads of the palms and soles adapt for keratinocytes. They manufacture basic staining particles, the
weight bearing and friction and the membranous stratum corneum over keratinohyaline granules. This keratogenous or transitional zone is a
the remainder of the body is flexible but impenneable. The horny pads region of intense biochemical activity and morphological change. The
are at least 40 times thicker than the membranoushorny layer. Holbrook dynamic operation manufactures the keratin to form the horny layer by
and Odland carried out an ultrastructural analysis of the stratum corneum an active rather by a degenerativeprocess.
to find out the regional differences in the thickness (cell layers) in (4) Stratum spinosum (prickly cell layer) : The cells of this layer
humans (Table 2-l). The methodsthat were utilised for measurementof are produced by morphological and histochemical alteration of the cells
the layers were: of 'basal layer as they moved upward. The bells flatten dnd their nuclei
(a) Scotch tape stripping to remove cell layers" The number of shrink. They are also called polygonal cells, prickle cells, becausethey
strippings were correlated with the nurnber of cell layers. are interconnectedby fine prickles. Each prickle enclosesan extension
(b) Treatment of paraffin embedded and frozen biopsies with alkali of tnd cytoplasm" and the opposing tips of the prickles of adjacent cells
to cause swellins. hence better visualization and more accurate adhere to form intercellular bridges, the desmosomes. These links
counting. maintain the integrity of the epidermis.
(c) Application of standard chemical fixation, paraffin embedment (5) Stratum germinativum (basal layer and dermoepidermal junc-
and staining proceduresfor histological sections. Thickness was tion) : The basal cells are nucleated, columnar and about 6 pm wide,
measured rry.itha micrometer eyepiece. with their long axis at right angles to the dermoepidermaljunction, they
TABLE 2-I are connected by cytoplasmic intercellular bridges.
Regional Differences in the Thickness and Mitosis of the basal cells constantly renews the epidermis and this
Cell Layers of the Straturn Corneum proliferation in healthy skin balances the loss of dead horny cells from
the skin surface. Thus the thickness of epidermis remains constant'
Bod.y Region Thickness of S C. (pm) Number of Cell Lqvers
The basal cells also include melanocytes which produce and distrib-
A[ean Runge lu[ean Ilange
ute melanin granules to the keratinocy'tes required for pigmentation, a
Abdornen 8 .2 5.9-98 18.0 15.0-20.9 protective measureagainst radiation. Below the basal cell layer lies the
Flexorforearrn t2 9 8.tr- 16.2 21.6 r 6.7-30.0 complex dermoepidermal junction, which constitutes an anatomic func-
'I'high t{ ).9 7.7-t5 .3 19.3 143-22.7 tional unit. The junction serves the three functions of dermal-epidermal
Biri;k 9 .4 8 .2 -r1 .3 15.8 I 4.0-21l adherence, mechanical support for the epidermis, the control of the
passageof cells and some large molecules acrossthe junction'

16 OFCOSMETICS
A HANDBOOK
The barrier function of the junction can be consideredin terms of
three species,small molecules,large moleculesand cells. There is no
evidencethat the junction significantlyinhibits the passageof water,
electrolytes,and other low molecularweight materials.
B. The Dermis
The dermis, as indicatedin Fig. 2-1, is the non-descriptive region
lying in betweenthe epidermisand the subcutaneous fatty region- It
consistsmainly of the densenetwork of structuralprotein fibres i.e.
collagen, reticulum and elastin, embeddedin the semigel matrix of
mucopolysaccharidic 'ground substances'. It is about 0.2 to 0'3 cm
thick. The elasticityof skin is due to the networkor gel structureof the
cells. It also consistsof the epidermisand reticularlayer,which is the
maiir structuralbody of the skin. Beneaththe dermis,the fibrous tissue
opensout and mergeswith the fat containingsubcirtaneous tissue. On
the other hand, the upper layer of the dermis is formed into ridges or
papillae projecting into the epidermis,which contains blood vessels,
lymphatics,and nerve endings. Only the nerve fibres reach into the
germinativezoneof the epidermis.
C. SubcutaneousTissue
tissue,known as the
This layer consistsof a sheetof fat-richareol.ar
superficial fascia,attachingthe dermisto the underlying structures. The
veins are present
subcutaneous layer is quite elastic. Large arteriesand
only in the superficialregion. The rest of the portion containsa limited
numberof capillariesand novital organs.
D. Skin Appendages
The skin is interspersed with hair follicles and associatedsebaceous
glands,like pilosebaceous glandsand in specif,rc regionstwo types of
sweat glands, eccrine and apocrineglands. Collectively, these are
referredto as the skin appendages.
Hair follicles are distributedover the entireskin surfaceexceptsoles
of the feet, the palm of the hand,the red portion of the lips, and selected
portion of the sex organs. It consistsof concentriclayersof cellularand
non-cellularcomponentsand is placed at an angle. Smooth muscle
fibres, arrectores pilorum, attach the hair to the dermal connective
tissues. The hair shaft is formed by a processof cellular division and
migration of the cells similar to that which forms the stratumcorneum.
Hairs are thus formed of keratinizedcells compactedtogetherinto plates
and scales.
ch-2 THESKIN 17
Each hair follicle is associatedwith one or more sebaceous gland
which are referred as the acid mantle of the skin. ln some selected
region of the skin theseexist in the absenceof the hair follicle. Their
size varies from regionto region (200 to 2000 pm) and is highestin
nose. It secretesoily material,sebum,which lubricatesthe skin and
stratumcorneuinand also maintainsthe pH of the skin at 5'
(l) Eccrine sweatglands : Eccrineglandsor salty sweatglandsare
distributedover the surfaceof the body. They consistof simple,coiled
tube as shown in Fig.2.l and have a density from 100 to
200 glandsper cm2 of the body surfacedependingon the body region.
The secretionis dilute aqueoussolutionof salt and someother minor
componentsand it has a pH of about 5. The principalfunctionof the
gland is heatcontrol" It secretesdilute aqueoussolutionof salt and due
to this it regulatesthe body temperature.
(2) Apocrine glands : Apocrine glands are presentonly in the
selectedregion of the body viz. axillae (armpits),in anogenitalregion
and aroundthe nipples. They are ten times largerthan eccrineglands
containingprotein,lipoprotein,lipids and
and secretes a milky substance
diverseproteins. The secretionis mainly stimulateddue to emotional
stressand sexualstimulation.
(3) Sebaceousglands : Sebaceous glands are responsiblefor the
secretionof sebum,which constitutesthe majority of the fatty layer
coveringthe skin and hair. The sebaceous glandsare found in various
partr ofthe body like face,shoulders,upperchestand scalp,but are not
found on the palmsand soles. They are available500-1000per square
centimetre.
(4) Hair : The hair shaft is basically the product of synthesized
proteinfollowing cell division at the root of hair follicle. The number
of hair per unit area varies at different parts of the body. The rate of
growthalsovariesfrom siteto siteand variesbetween0.2 to 0'4 mm per
day.
Common Disordersof the Skin
As we mentionedearlierthat cosmeticsare basicallyfor beautifica-
tion and masking,preventionor overcomingcommon disorders,it is
npcessary to havea knowledgeof commondisordersof the skin. Design
and applicationof any skin cosmeticswill be guidedby the natureand
siteof disorders.Commondisordersof skin can be classifiedas follows:
 l8 A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
A.' Pigmentary Disorders
This is due to disorder in pigmentation on the skin and it can be of
hyperpigmentation or hypopigmentation in nature.
(1) Hyperpigmentation : This is the disorder due to abnormal
pigmentation which occurs on a small area of the skin, mainly in
Caucasians. This disorder is due to an increased local synthesis of
melanin in the epidermis. This can be further stimulated by exposureto
UV or X-irradiation.
Various conditions are termed as ephelides,
lentigens, moles, ochronosis.
(2) Hypopigmentation : Synthesis of lesser amount of melanin in
part of skin can cause hypopigmentation, which is called vitiligo, a
patchy depigmentation of the skin afflicting a considerable number of
non-Caucasians. It can also occur in Caucasians. A decreaseor total
absenceof melanocytes in the depigmented areas has been observed.
B. Disorders of the Sebaceousand Sweat Glands
Disorders or malfunctions of sebaceousand sweat glands can cause
various skin disorders like acne, prickly heat, etc.
Acne like pimples, blackheads,whiteheads and boils are caused by
the disorders of hair follicles and sebaceousglands and mostly occur in
face, neck and upper portion of chest and back.
Miliaria, most common of which is prickly heat or strophus, is
caused by the disorder of sweat glands and commonly occurs in neck
and large areas of the skin.
C. Skin Scaling Disorders
Skin scaling can be due to dandruff and psoriasis.
(1) Psoriasis : This is a skin disease characterized by the formation
of scaly red patches, particularly on the extensor surfaces of the body,
mainly elbows and knees. The site is covered with silvery scaleswhich
on removal show a small bleeding point.
(2) Dandruff: This is characterizedby flaking of stratum corneum
and mostly occurs on scalp. The reason suggestedfor this condition can
be microbial infection, immunological or normal disorder at the surface
of stratum comeum.
(3) Effects of aging on skin : Aging affects the characters and
functions of the skin. Cosmetics are used to partially repair, mask or
overcome such changes. Various changescaused by aging are thinning
of epidermis making older people more prone to injury and skin infec-
Ch-2 THE SKIN 19
tion, reducing the sensitivity of the immune system causing further skin
damage and infection, change in colour, lower melanin level makes it
more sensitive to sun exposure,dry and scaly skin due to less secretion,
cold skin due to low blood supply, decreasein elasticity of the skin and
occurrenceof wrinkles.
Skin : Its Nutrition and Care
To ensure the maintenanceof normal condition of skin various steps
or practices should be adopted. They include cleansing, freshening or
toning, moisturising, nourishing and protecting the skin. For aging skin
further care is required for overcoming the changesthat have occurred or
for masking the skin characters"
Advent of more and more knowledge about skin physiology and
biochemistry has given the cosmetic manufactuiers more avenues for
better skin care. Several creams are available for specific functions,
overcoming specific disorder of skin in special cases.
Nutrients of skin Various substancesare essentialfor maintenance
of normal condition and function of skin. Some of these are systemi-
cally supplied and others are synthesizedby various mechanisms in the
skin from raw materials. These include:
(1) Proteins : Proteins are major componentssynthesizedin epider-
mis and hair follicle from amino acids. The amino acids are supplied by
the blood by the breakdown of the dietary proteins at the digestive
systgms.
(2) Lipids : Lipid is another important substancesynthesizedin the
skin by the sebaceousglands in the epidermis. Sebum is lipid secreted
from the sebaceousglands and is made from mainly fatty acids' Lipids
produced at the epidermis have a role in barrier function and structural
integrity of the stratum corneum, and are made from acetate, amino
acids, long chain fatty acids and carbohydrates.
(3) Melanin : Melanin is synthesized from the amino acid tyrosin
and is responsible for pigmentation at the skin.
(4) Energy supply substances : The synthesis of proteins, lipids
and melanin requires the supply of energy at the skin cells and is made
available by energy processeslike oxidative phosphorylation of glucose
or other monosaccharides.
(5) Water : This is most important for normal function of the skin
and movement of other nourishing substancesand metabolites.
20 A HANDBOOKOF COSMETICS

(6) Others : Apart from the above substatpes various other sub-
stances like protein hormones, steroid hormones, corticosteroids and
vitamins are also essential for normal maintenance of the skin.
CHAPTER-3
The above substancesare required to be supplied as skin preparations
if they are not available through normal systemic process.
Supply of these nourishing substancesrequires penetration through Powders and ComPacts
skin to reach the proper site. It is very important for the designer to
ensure the cutaneouspermeation ofany such substances.The percutane-
and com-
ous permeation of amy chemical entity will depend on various factors PreParations is Powders
and bodY care, not onlY bY women
like:
rowders, which are also known as
(a) Physico-chemical properties and concentration of the
[ace Powders and comPacts' Medi-
permeant
(b) Composition and characteristicsof the vehicle
(c) Condition of the skin
"fl.T:fl:::::#'T:ffi:i:'*1
For poorly penetrable substances,some additive can be incorporated powdersusedfor specificpurposes'
skin care preparationsin
to enhance the penetration of the permeants. 'These are called 'Penetra- Fundamentallypowders diffpr from liquid
tion Enhancers'. Various substancesare used as penetration enhancers theirphysicalcharacteristicsandtheirmostimportantcosmeticproper-
like dimethyl formamide (DMF), dimethyl sulphoxide (DMSO), ozone, tiesaredeterminedexactlybythesecharacteristics.Veryfineparticle
alcohols and surfactants. Their funtions are attributed to their role to size produceslarge t"tfu"" p"' unit weight which covers a large
-"u light dispersion'
temporarily change the barrier systems of the skin by various mecha- ,urf*" areaof the body and resulis in strong
nisms. characteristics:
The powdersshouldhavethe following
covering power and so hide skin
Skin care preparations Various products are available and mar- (l) The powdermust have good
keted for the care of skin. They are used for beautifrcation, skin care, blemishes.
masking or repairing of skin defects, etc. to the skin and not blow off easily'
'12; t, must adhereperfectly
a few minutes to avoid
(1) Powders, face powders, compacts etc. (3) It must not be completely dissipatedin
(2) Skin colorants like lipstick, rouge, eye mascaraetc. re-Powdering.
(3) Various creams for care of skin. preferably of a matt or
(a) The finish given to the skin must be
(4) Sunscreenpreparationsfor skin protection.
Peach-likecharacter'
eliminated'
(5) Shine on or aroundthe nosemust be completely
(6) 'the Powdermust be absorbent'
slip to enablethe powder to spreadon
1Zi fn"r" must be sufficient a blotchy effect'
the skin by the puff withoui producing
be such that a clown-like
(8) The constituentsof the powder must
be rather towards
effect is impo'siUte' The preferenceshould
one of transParency'
Preparations
Raw Materials for Powdersand Allied
of powders is the
The primary considerationin the manufacture
2l

22 A HANDBooKoF
coSMETIcS
selectionof proper raw materials. euality of the basic ingredientsis
very important to achieve the intendedquality of the finished products
and the effect to be obtained from the products. so, the quality of the
raw materialsplays an important role in the ultirnate powder ro.-ut"-
tion. The knowledgeof variousraw materialsand their characters, role.
shouldbe well known beforejudicious selectionof materials.
The main substancesused to impart all the necessaryqualities are
kaolin, zinc oxide, zinc stearate,titanium'dioxide, calcium carbonate,
magnesiumcarbonate,purified talc (talcum), magnesiumstearateetc.
Apart from the above, various colours and perfumesare also used to
impart intendedcolour shadeand odour.
The raw materialsto be usedfor manufacturingpowder shouldbe of
good quality:-
(1) The materials should not be hbrd. If the materialsare
crystals in nature they must not have any sharp edges or
points. Thesecan damagethe skin.
(2) Solubility of the materialsin water and fat mixture must be
nil or least.
(3) The materialsmustbe non-i*itatingandnon-toxicto the skin.
(a) The materialsmust be chemicallyneutral and should not
interact with each other.
The raw materialsgenerallyused in manufacturingof variouspow-
dersare classifiedand discussedaccordingto their functions:-
, (l) Materials imparting covering character
- surface.
(2) Materials imparting adhesioncharacter
(3) Materials imparting slip and softness
(4) Materials imparting absorbencycharacters
(5) Materials imparting peach-likefinish
(6) Frosted-lookmaterials
(7) Colouringsubstances
(8) Perfumes
All the materials are not required for every preparation. According
to the need and purposeof the productraw materialsare selected. Some
of the items are essentialfor every preparationsuch as covering materi-
als, absorbents,adhesives,slips.
(l) Materials for imparting covering character : One important
characterexpectedfrom the materialsused in powders,particularly face
Ch-3 POWDERSAND COMPACTS 23
powders,is the ability to cover small skin imperfections,enlargedpores,
etc. They should be in finely powderedform. Generally,the covering
power per unit weight is stronger if the specific surface area of the
powder is higher i.e. the particlesare finer. The efficiency of the
covering agent can dependon the medium in which it is dispe?sed.
Covering power is betteron dry skin than moist skin. Titanium dioxide
is the bestcoveringagent. It is widely usedin facepowders. covering
power of titaniumdioxide is 1.6 times more than the zinc oxide on dry
ikin and 2.5 times more on moist and greasy skin. It is mostly
physiologicallyinert. Its sunscreen propertiesare, however,inferior to
zinc oxide.
Zinc oxide is also a very good coveringagent.t,Thoughfiner parti-
cles have hetter covering power, but covering ptrwer of zinc oxide
particlesdiminishesif the particle size is below 0'25 pm. In moist
invironmentcoveringpowerof zinc oxide is 37Yoof that of dry powder
and much lessin oily environment.Zinc oxide hasvery goodsunscreen
propertiesas it has a protectiveeffectagainstultravioletrays.
Kaolin, zinc stearate,magnesiumstearateand rice starch are other
substances usedas coveringagents. However,they are not as good as
titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. But combinationof the abovemateri-
als, in different proportions,can be used to make productsof varying
coveringability.
(2) Materials imparting adhesion character : trpe5p...-5g.l0.stancss
impart adhesioncharacter. Not only to the skin surfacebut also to the
This
iowder puff, which facilitates taking powder from its container.
characteris essentialto cling the powder to the face or other skin
The materialsprimarily used for imparting adhesivecharactersare
rnetal soapsprimarily zinc stearateand magnesiumstearate,talc, magne-
sium and calciumsaltsof myristic-acid.
' Magnesiumstearatehas better adhesiveproperty than zinc stearate
and is more preferred in face powders. But zinc stearateis more
predominantlyused in talcum powders. Super quality magnesiumand
zinc stearatesare availablewith excellentcolour, texture and minimum
of odour. 'Ihey also give a velvety softnessto the product^ As they are
waterproof,they maintain the complexion intact in inclementweather.
Magnesiumstearateis used3-10%s in facepowders.
Stearatesof lithium and calciurn are also available for use for the
sam.epurpose" Lithium stearate,in particular,has also got good cover-
flufff texture.
ing propertiesand
 24 A HANDBooKoF cosMETrcs 25
Ch-3 POWDERSAND COMPACTS
Magnesium and calcium salts of myristic acid are also used for their
are colloidal kaolin, starch, bentonite, precipitated chalk (calcium car-
adhesion properties. Magnesium myristate has better adhesion character
bonate), magnesium carbonate'
and a better texture.
colloidal kaolin is a fine, soft, white powder. It has a good absorb-
Cosmetic quality talc, which is a purified hydrated nragnesium sili-
ent capacity for aqueous and fatty substancesand good covering power
cate has adhesion properties. Though it is available in various corrntries,
also. It is non-toxic and non-irritating and inert. It has less slip
Italian product is the best and used for both face powders and body
property.
powders.
Bentonite is mainly aluminium silicate and fine grey whitish powder.
The adhesion character of the powders can be increasedby incorpo-
It has extraordinary swelling power and can swell upto 12 times of its
rating l-2%o cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, glyceryl monostearate,
own volume. Its use in cosmetics is comparatively less'
petrolatum, lanolin or similar fats.

(3) Materials imparting slip and softneis : Slip is rhe quality of

easy spreading and application of powder to produce a characteristic
smooth feeling on the skin. This character is mainly obtained by using
talc, zinc and magnesium stearates,and aluminium hydrosilicate.
Talc is purified hydrated magnesiurn silicate (3MgO, 4SiO2, H2O).
The proportion of Mg and Si can vary. Talc is produced by different preferred less than magnesium carbonate.
countries but Italian, French and some lndian varieties are of very good
various starches,like rice, wheat, corn, potato etc.,are comparatively
quality and most suitable for powders specifically face powders. Some-
less used nowadays. It has good moisture absorbing and swelling
times talc contains pathogenic spores, particularly tetanus, so properly
ability. It produces a sticky character but is completely non-toxic.
sterilized products are used in powder preparations. Talc is distin-
guished by its great softnessand slip and is almost neutral if adequately
purified. It is not to be used in open skin as in wounds it can cause
talcum granuomae. Talc cannot absorb any water.
,Alurninium hydrosilicate is a valuable basic material for powders It
is smooth and fatty. It should be prepared properly by trehting with to get better effect.
acid, washing with water and then dried. It also has certain cooling
effect. It absorbs fatty secretions and small amounts of water. lt is
completely non-toxic.
Ofher substancesused for softnessand slip are zinc stearate,magne-
sium stearate,zinc undecanate,magnesiumundecanate. The undecanates, not be used in excessof 30 Per cent.
in particular, are soft and have excellent slip but are expensive. properly
purified stearatesare extensively used.

(4) Materials imparting absorbency characters : Powders should

have ability to eliminate shiny skin in certain facial areas by absorbing
sebaceoussecretions and perspiration. This character can be imparted
by incorporating material with high absorptive capacity in face powders, aluminiurn,hronz*.
dusting powders, baby powders, deodorant powders, foot powders etc. (7) Colourimg substances : These are substancesmainly used ill
Various
Face powders should also have a certain absorbency to prevent srnudg- face powders and cornpastsbut not in dusting or baby powders'
are used.
ing of make-up by perspiration The rnaterialswhich impart this property inorganic and organic pigments and certified organic lakes
26 A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
Various synthetic or natural inorganic pigments used are iron oxides for
yellows, reds, and brov,,nsand ultramarine for green and blue. ;Toxic
lead and arsenic compounds are not used.
Organic lakes and pigments produce better brilliance but should be
selected from certified dyes.
The organic'pigments must not bleed in oil or water and should be
light-fast. phoice of colour is mainly users' taste. Various colours with
various shadesare used to fulfil the satisfaction ofthe users. The colour
of the thin film of the pigment may be different from the colour effect
given by the powder viewed in bulk.
(8) Perfumes : rrPerfume is an essential component of powders.
Users put more importance to perfume. But it should not be over
emphasized at the time of manufacturing. Normally the products are
perfumed lightly, particularly face powders and compacts. The odour
must be fragrant and pleasant.I Various perfumes or fragrance which are
used, either flowery fragrance or synthetic odour. Selection of proper
fra.grance is very vital for the products. Sometime combination of
fragrances gives a better appeal.
Compatibility of perfume with other constituents of the formulation
-is to be checked properly before use. Constituents of powder prepara-
tion may change the character of fragrance.
POWDER PRODUCTS
(1) FACE POWDERS
Face powder is an indispensable article of a lady's cosmetic range.
From the mask-like covering in ancient times to the natural look which
is the choice of the presentday, face powders have been and still rernain
one of the basics of the cosmetic industry.
A great deal of changes have taken place in face powder fashion
during the last couple of decades. Tinted, shiny, enhanced by our
modern cosmetics, the woman of today is able, with only modest effort,
to be more attractive than she has ever been in the past.
A face powder is basically a cosmetic product which has as its prime
function the ability to complement skin colour by imparting a velvet
finish to it.
A good faie powder should produce a smooth t-rnishto the facial
skin, masking visible imperf'ectionsof the face and shine due to moisture
or grease from perspiration or secretion of sebaceousand sweat glands
or fron preparations used on the skin. The powder must produce a
Ch.3 POWDERSAND COMPACTS 27
lasting effect, so that frequentapplicationis unnecessary.The prepara-
tion should make the face pleasantto look and touch. The degreeof
opacity can vary from opaque, in case of clown make-up,to almost
transparent.It must adhereto the skin and be reasonablyresistantto the
mixed secretions of the skin.
since no singlematerialcan haveall the'requiredpropertiesdesired
in a facepowder,a mixture of different substancesis norrnallyemployed
to get the following essentialcharacteristic's of a good product-
(a) Covering power : The ability to mask skin imperfectionssuch
as skin shine,enlargedporesand minor blemishes.
(b) Slip : The characterof spreadingover the skin without dragging,
and giving the characteristic of smoothfeeling.
(c) Adhesiveness : The ability to cling to the face.
(d) Absorbency : The ability to absorbskin perspirarionand oily
secretionwithout showingthe effectof suchabsorption.
(e) Bloom : The ability to imparta velvety,peach-likefinish to the
face skin.
(f) Colouring : To imparta coloureffectaccordingto the need.
(g) Perfuming : To produce a pleasantodour. The proportion of
variousingredientsusedcan be alteredto have slight variation
in the properties of the powder and their effect, but, as a
practice, f-acepowders are classified in to three categories
_ dependingon the natureofthe skin and correspondingly cover-
ing ability requiredfrom the products.
(i) Light type
(ii) Mediumtype
(iii) Heavytype
Skin to be powderedcan be classifiedinto three categories:dry,
normal or moderatelyoily, and very oily.
(i) Light type : Dry skin requireslight powder, a powder of slight
covering power as dry skin secretesvirtually no oil and little
moisture.fhey normally contain large quantity of talc.
(ii) Medium type : Medium powders,having comparativelyhigher
coveringpower,are appliedto normal or moderatelyoily skins,
which are shinier due to skin secretions. They contain some_
what lessertalc and balancedby zinc oxide.
(iii) Heavy type : Heavy powdershave more coveringpower and are
used for extremelyoily skins which have a greatdeal of shine
 Ch-3 POWDERSAND COMPACTS 29
28 A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
Formuh4
and thus require great covering power. They normally contain Talc 79.0 gm
still lower quantity of talc and high quality of zinc oxide. Zinc oxide 5.0 gm
Zinc stearate 5.0 gm
General preparation : The preparationof powdersis simple as it is
Rice starch 10.3gm
simply a matter of dry mixing of finely powderedmaterials. Add the
Colour 0.3 gm
perfume with part of the absorbentmaterialslike calcium carbonateor
Perfume 0.7-gm
with magnesiumcarbonateand keep it aside for some time. Mix the
colour with part of the talc properly and add the other powdersand then
MEDIUMPOWDER
the perfume mixture. Mix and sieve the powder mixture using a silk
Formula5
mesh or an old washednylon cloth.
Talc 39.7 gm
Formulae of Face Powders Kaolin 39.5 gm
Calcium carbonate(light) 5.0 gm
POWDER WITH REDUCING COVERING POWER
Zinc oxide 7.0 gm
Forihula I 7.0 gm
Zinc stearate
Zinc stearate 5.0 gm 1.0 gm
Magnesiumcarbonate
Zinc oxide 10.0gm 0.2 gm
Colour
I Calcium carbonate(light) 20.0 gm 0.6 gm
Perfume
,Talc 57.3gm
Titanium dioxide 2.0 gm Formula6
. Magnesiumcarbonate(light) 5.0 gm Zinc stearate 5.0 gm
Colour 0.2 gm Zinc oxide 15.0gm
Perfttme 0.5 gm Titaniumdioxide 2.0 gm
Precipitatedchalk 15.0gm
LIGHT POWDER Rice starch 15.0gm
Formula2 Talc 47.2 gm
Talc 63.0 gm Colour r 0.3 gm
Kaolin 20.0 gm Perfume 0.5 gm
Calcium carbonate(light) 5.0 gm
Zinc oxide 5.0 gm Fo r m u l a 7
Zinc stearate 5.0 gm Zinc stearate 15.0gm
Magnesiumcarbonate 1.0 gm Zinc oxide 17.5gm
Colour 0.5 gm Calcium carbonate 20.0 gm
Perfume 0.5 gm Talc 47.0 gm
Colour 0.2 gm
Formula 3 Perfume 0.3 gm
Zinc stearate 7.0 gm
Zinc oxide 10.0gm HEAVY POWDER
Calcium carbonate(light) 20.0 gm For m ula8
Talc 62.3 gm Magnesium stearate 5 . 0gm
Colour 0.3 gm Kaolin (light) 20.0gm
Perfume 0.4 gm Zinc oxide l 5 . 0 gm
30 A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS 3l
Ch-3 POWDERSAND COMPACTS

Calcium carbonate(light) , 39.0 gm (a) Dry binders : They are metallic stearate-slike zinc stearate,
Talc 20.0 gm magnesium stearate'The use ofdry binders needs increasedpressurefor
Colour 0.5 gm firm compacting.
Perfume 0.5 gm and
(b) Oil binders : Oils such as mineral oil, isopropyl myristate'
agents for making com-
For m ula 9 lanolin derivatives are widely used as binding
5.0 gm pact powders.
Titanium dioxide
Zinc oxide 15.0gm
Magnesiumstearate 5.0 gm
Calciumcarbonate(light) 15.0gm
Kaolin (light) 25.0 gm
prevent
Talc 34.0 gm pact powders. A preservative is essential in gum medium to
Colour, 0.4 gm rnicrobiological growth in the preparations'
0.6 gm
Perfume (d) Water-repellant binders : These are widely used in compact
lanolin
fa"" io*d"rs and include mineral oil, various fatty esters, and
to aid in
(2) COII{PACT FACE POWDER derivatives in combination with a considerableamount of water
agent may
the formation of a smooth, solidly pressedcake' A wetting
throughout
also be incorporatedto help to uniformly distribute moisture
the powder.

Methods of PreParation I
B asi cal l ythreem et hods. of pr epar at ionof com pact f acepowder sar e
adopted.
(l )W etmetho d: lnt hism et hodbasicm at er ials, colour sand
and air-
Uinieis are kneaded into a paste with water, pressed into moulds
as it can produce cracks and other
dried slowly. It is not much used
t s int lin g a g e n ts :T h e b i n c l e rs u s e d i n compactpow dersareseveral i n lbults.
nurnber'. "l'he1'can be ciassified into five types--
(a) DrY trit'rdi:rs
(b) {)i1 bindq:rs
qc) Water-soluble binders
(cl) Vy'nter-rePellant binders
anolamine stearate with lanolin and cetyl alcohol'
ie) kirnulsi'llnbinders
 33
COMPACTS
\ Ch-3 POWDERS AND
32 A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
Formulr l4
69.0 gm
(3) Damp method : In this method the base powder, colour and Talc 18.0gm
perfume are mixed uniformly. The mixture is then wetted down with Kaolin t.0 gm
liquid binders like aqueousmucilagesor mucin rich o/w emulsion Titanium dioxide 5.0 gm
binders and blended until the proper plasticity of the mass is attaine(. Zinc stearate q.s..
The powder is then screenedan/ compressedby machineand dried ht Colour q.s.'
elevatedtemperature. This method is a widely acceptedmethod and is Binder q.s.
usedcommercially. Perfume

FORMULAE OF SOME BINDERS Formule 15

79.0 gm
Formula l0 Talc 9.0 gm
Gum Arabic 1.0 gm Calcium carbonate 7.0 gm
Glycerol 5.0 gm Zinc oxide 5.0 gm
Water 94.0 gm Zinc stearate q.s
Preservative q.s. Colour q.s.
Binder q.s.
Formulall Perfume
Gum tragacanth 2.0 gm
Glycerol monostearate 6.0 gm Formulr16
60.0 gm
Mineral oil 4.0 gm Talc 12.0gm
Sorbitol 5.0 gm Kaolin 12.0gm
Water 83.0 gm Chalk, PreciPitated 12.0gm
Preservative 'q.s Titanium dioxide 4.0 gm
Zinc stearate q.s.
Formula12 Colour q.s.
Gum tragacanth 2.0 gm Binder q.s.
Glucose 5.0 gm Perfume
Water 93.0 gm
Preservative q.s. Formula17
62.0 gm
Talc ll.0 gm
Formula13 Kaolin 14.0gm
Mineral oil 1.0 gm Zinc oxide 5.0 gm
Polyoxyethylenestearate 2.0 gm Zinc stearate 8.0 gm
Water 97.0 gm Magnesiumcarbonate q.s.
Preservative q.s. Colour q.s.
Binder q.s.
Formulae of Conpact Face Powders Perfume
Apart from the formulae mentionedin face powders,which can be
Formuhl8
convertedto compactby using suitablebinder, the following additional 70.0gm
formulae are suggested. As the amount of binder, colour and perfume Talc 20.0gm
will vary accordingto need,they are not mentionedin specific amount. Mica 10.0gm
Titanium dioxide or mica
 35
34 A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS AND COMPACTS
Ch.3 POWDERS
characteristic'
Colour is not
Colour q.s. contributes to adhesive
magnesium stearate
Binder q.s. o."--din bodY Powders'
Perfume q.s.
GeneralPreParations ploperly and keep it
Formula"lg oil with
Mix the perfume 'nug"&iu'n -carbonate
i"i*,"::1, tt' iT'""'$"1$1:
Talc
Syntheticpeari
54.0 gm iderorsometime''#,,';;;;
as carbonate to thls
m *i*:
10.0gm the perfumed magneslum
Titanium dioxide 30.0 gm and Pack it in contatners'
Zinc stearate 6.0 gm BODY POWDER
FORMULAE OF
Colour q.s. Formula20
Binder q.s. 75.0 gm
Perfume q.s. Talc 10.0 gm
c6ttoiaAkaolin 5.0 gm
Colloidal silica 5.0 gm
(3) BODY POWDERS
Magnesium carbonate 4.0 gm
Amongst the various cosmetics, body powder is one of the widely Aluminium steafate 0.3 gm
consumed cosmetic preparations. Body powders are also Boric acid
known as 0.7 gm
talcum powders or dusting powders. They are used for multiple Perfume
pur-
poses. The main use of body powders or talcum powders
is to absorb Formula2l
moisture or perspiration specifically after bathing particularly
in warmer 70.0 gm
countries. These also provide good slip, a cooring effect and
efficient
Talc 25.0 gm
lubrication, and prevent i'itation of skin due to chafing. The
very fine Calcium carbonate 4.0 gm
particie size of these covers cause a rarge surface ur.u p". ,Zinc stearate 0.3 gm
unit weight
and can cover a large body area which results in strong -light Boric acid 0.7 gm
dispersion
and therefore visual covering of the skin underneath. The Perfume oil
surface
covered by the powders is much more than the surface uncovered
which Formula22
leads to a cooling effect if the ingredients of the powder have good 6.0 gm
heat
conductivity. These fine powder particles with light weight'adhere Satinex 88.0 gm
to
the skin by the stickiness of the fat film. Noimally,lhey Talc 5.0 gm
contain carbonate (light)
covering material, adhesives, absorbency material, slip, antiseptics ri"gn..iut 0.3gn
and Boric acid
perfumes. 0'7 gm
Perfumeoil
Body powdersconsistmainry of talc, with smail proportionsof a
metallic stearate,like zinc stearate,aluminium stearate,etc., and precipi- Formula23
5'0 gm
tated calcium carbonate(chrilk) or magnesiumcarbonate(right). Zinc stearate 5.0 gm
For
antiseptic action boric acid, chlorohexidinediacetate,bithionll Zinc oxide 15'0 gm
ur" "f"rug"tti
usedto suppressproliferationof microorganisms responsiblefor"t". urn carbonate(li ght) 74.5 gm
devel:
opment of perspiration odour. Talcum powders containing antiseptic Tale 0'5 gm
substances are also usedfor prickly heatand fungusinfectiois. Perfume
Absorbencycharacteristicis impartedby the inclusion of kaolin, Formula24
magnesiumcarbonate,precipitatedchalk and starch. Slip will be con- 4.0 gm
Zinc oxide 8.0 gm
ferred by talc, zinc stearate. The presenceof kaorin, zinc oxide (light)
or Cui"i"* carbonate
36
A HANDB@K OF COSMETICS
(.h.3 POWDERS
AND COMPACTS
37
Talc
87.5 gm
Perfume MEDICATED DUSTING POWDERS
0.5 gm
Formule 30
DEODORANTPO}VDERS SodiumproPanedioate7 20.0gm
Formulr 25 Talc 78.0gm
Zinc oxide Boric acid 2.0 gm
5.0 gm
Zinc stearate
5.0 gm
Chlorhexidinediacetate FOOT POWDERS
0.3 gm
Calcium carbonate(light) Formulr 3l
10.0gm
Talc Boric acid 10.0gm
79.3 gm
Perfume Kaolin 44.5 gm
0.4 gm
Talc 45.0 gm
Formula26 Menthol 0.5 gm
Zinc oxide
10.0gm
Zinc stearate Formule 32
5.0 gm
Bithional Boric acid I1.0 gm
0.5 gm 20.0 gm
Calciumcarbonate(light) Starch
5.0 gm
Talc Talc 69.0 gm z
79.2 gm
Perfume
0.3 gm
Evrluation
BABY POWDERS Evaluationand assessment of variouspowder productsparticularly
judge the quality of the
Formula22 loose face powders,compactsare essentialto
at differentlevels.onthe
Talc
87.0 gm finishedproducts. Intensivetestingsare done
include.tests
Magnesiurnstearate r
5.0 gm q""iiry of the products. Tests tuti b" thorough and must
Magnesiumcarbonate(light) ilipunitf" size,abrasiveness' apparentdensity'moisturecontent'limits
5.0 gm
Boric acid for colour, etc.
2.5 gm
Perfumeoil extensiveand
0.5 gm Apart from the common test of contentdetermination'
contro|ledstabilitytestarecarriedouttodeterminethattheformulated
time during shelf-
Formula2t proJuct will remain stable for an extendedperiod of
Talc stability test can be
70.0 gm life. For this purpose' if necessary,accelerated
Kaolin for face powdersand
20.0 gm carriedout. other testswhich are doneparticularly
Magnesiumstearate
4.0 gm compactsthe are the following-
Boric acid determine
Satinex
2.5 gm (1) Shadc control and lighting : This is to control and
3.0 gm and with the standard-
Perfumeoil the variation of colour shadeiom batch to batch
0.5 gm
Prop.rtestistobedonetopreventvariationinshades'Onesuch
methodis comparisonof tn. appearance of the body of the powder with
Formula 29
a white paper back-
Talc
84.0 gm a standardwhen it is spreadout *a flattened on
evaluation is comparison of the sample
Kaolin
10.0gm ground. The otheiln"iftod of
undertone. Powders should be applied
Boric acid
3.5 gm with the standardby skin tone or
for finished pack' This is the final
Satinex {
2.0 gm bt ;; samepuff tlat is to be used
lighting is used for colour
Perfumeoil j,rOJ"rn"n for the shade test' Artificial
0.5 gm
dvaluation.
38 A I{ANDBOOK OF COSMETICS

(2) Dispersion of colour': Colour should be homogeneouslydistrib-

uted in the powder base. There should not be segregationor bleeding of
colour. This can be tested by spreading the powder on a white paper CHAPTER-4
and checking it with a magnifoing glass.
(3) Pay-off : The pay-off character,i.e., adhesion with the puff, of a
compact or pressed powder should be tested on the skin. High pressure
Skin Colorants
will make the cake so hard that the poryder will not rub off the cake
easily enough and thus there will be insufficient adhesion of the material
an ancientpractice
to the puff. Too low pressure will make the cake soft and thus have a Colouring skin, particularly skin of face and lips' is
In present days' the use of.such
tendenoy to crumble and break. going Uit to irehistoric period'
of shaded of colours' texture' lustre
(4) Pressure testing : Pressure applied to compact powder should iroAi.t, has increasedand choice observed from the
ir"ve been changedand becomewider' This can be
be uniform to prevent air pocket and thus breaking or cracking. Uni- of colours to
fact that lipsticls are marketed in hundreds of shades
formity of the hardness can be tested by penetrometer. Reading on
hardness is checked, at various points of compact tablet to see the satisff the demandsof women"
uniformity of hardness. Apartfromnormaldailylife,skincolorantsarealsousedfordrama'
(5) Breakage test : This is carried out by dropping the compact ci."us,danceetc'Thepresentchapterwillbasicallydiscusstwospecific
tablet of powder on a wooden surface several times from a height of 8 to skin colorants.
10 inches and checking the breakage or clipping of the compact. If the (1) LiPsticks
cake is unbroken it is indication of the resistance asainst travel and (2) Rouge
are
normal handling. The skin colorantsare also called as'Beauty Aids'but-they
of skin colorants is
(6) Flow property : This is very important, particularly for body differentfrom other cosmetics. The sole purpose
whereas other cos-
powders as they should come out easily from the containelfor easy ;il;;;,i"t of appearancefor enhancedattractiveness'
or promotion of the
application. This can be studied by measuring angle of repose of meticshave other specific functionsof maintenance
powder product by allowing to fall on a plate from a funnel and skin health along with or without decorativefunctions'
skin' Decorative
measuring the height and radius of heap formed. Also, the powder may Skin colorantsor beautyaids must not damagethe
of aging'
be allowed to fall from a funnel and noting the time taken. preparationsare used to tride small blemishesor symptoms
:fhay ur. also usedto createa well-groomedappearanpe and demonstrate
(7) Particle size and abrasiveness : Particle size can be determined
to attract opposite
by microscope, sieve analysis or by using sophisticated instruments and the desireto impressupon others. They are applied
as psychological'
techniques. Abrasiveness can be studied by rubbing the powders on a sexandto be noticedupon. The motivescan be termed
pleasantlyfragrant'
smooth surf'ace and then studying the effect on the surface using micro- Manufacturerstry to make these as decorative,
main activeingredi-
scope. coloured,non-tackyand harmlessas possible' The
are also essentialto
(8) Moisture content and limits for colour : These can be esti- ent in such preparationsis dye but oiher materials
and auxiliary
mated by using suitable analytical methods. hold the dyainlhe preparationsand for easeof application
effects.

(l) LIPSTICKS
usedby women'
Lipsticks,also termedas lip cosmetics,are widely
last couple of that they
decades
f ,iprtrcf.shave become,o popul"t in the
 A HANDB@K OF COSMETICS 4l
40 ('h.. SKIN COLORANTS

cosmetic-product' Its (E) It shouldhave a desirabledegreeofplasticity'

are now probably usedmore than any other single
flooded
popularity b" gauged from the fact that market has been (e) It shouldhave a pleasantodour and flavour'
,riift pf"nty""n
of productswith hundredsof shades' have the following
Apart from the above, a lipstick should also
matter in a base
Lipsticks are basically dispersions of colouring llorage characteristics:-
waxei suitably perfulned
consistingof a suitableUienaof oils, fats, and ( l) A smoothand shinYaPpearance'
in a'case'
n"uo-ur"d,moulded in the form of a stick and enclosed
glossy and moist (2) Freedomfrom bloom or sweating'
-J
Lipstick is usedto impart an attractivecolour' and (3) A suitable degree of firmness during reasonablevariations
of
the
to the lips, accentuatingtheir good points and disguising
lips can be made to climatic temPerature'
O""l*,t. By properiy applying a iipstick broader
"pp"riun""
look as broad lips' An (4) Retain plasticity without any tendencyto dry out or crumble'
look as nalrow or narrow^lipsmay be changedto
the apparent facial
ini"ffig"ntly applied lipstick can totally change
rhestick
composition .,lltT'oli.ti#
mainrv
upp""i"""". It'also helpsto preventcracking
and chapp-ing.of lips which
lipsticks also
frltTilt'*:T::
base used for
can lead to the Uacteiial infection' The :d melting Point and viscositY' The
producesan emollient action' between36oC to 38'C with liPs
rf the liPstick must have a melting
LipskinSkinofthelipsischaracterizedbyanexceptionallythin between55"C to 75oC PreferablY
developedand the
corneal layer. The stratumlerminativum is strongly |andexPosureto hot climates'
rlood content just below the surface'
ls but salivary glands are very much 'l'he basic raw materials required for formulating lipsticks can be
ra maintain the moisture of the lips'
classifiedas-
sparsely,the lips are almost entirely (l) Wax mixture
comeal layer tends to dry
free from fat. In very cold or dry weatherthe very
(2) Oil mixture
layer ofthe lips is
out and producecracled lips' Sincethe corneal on
(3) Bromo mixture
substances applied
thin, and further, crackedin ary condition' alien (4) Colours
the lips can quite easily penetrateto-the stratum
germinativum' This is fragrances,surfactantsand other additives
(5) Preservatives,
and selecting ingredi-
;l*"i, to be kept in mind while making lipsticks (l) Waxes
ents for it. thl charac-
Gloss and hardnessof lipsticks are largely dependent9n
the compositionof the wax
Characters A lipstick should have the following
characteristics: toristicsand quantityof the waxesused' So'
gloss and last for mixtureisofprimeimportance.Bestcharacteristicscanbeobtainedby
(l) It should cover the lips adequatelywith some and adjustingthe
;*i"; mixture of *u*", of different melting points
long time. melting
" point by incorporatinga sufficient amount of high
iinoirn"fting"Various
(2) It should make the iiPs soft' waxy materials are used in lipsticks'
being brittle and l,ii", **'
(3) The film must adherefirmly to the lips without (a) White beeswax : It is an-iTpgf* and useful cornponentof
tackY. It usefullybinds oils and
llpstick basewith *"tting point of 62-64'C'
(4) It shouldhave a good degreeof indelibility' to 10% of the total formula' It
high melting point waxesl it is u'ed in 3
without any of mouldedproducts' At
(5) It should have high retention of colow intensity rhrinks on cooling and thus helps preparation
appearance and causesthe
changein shade' higher concentrationii producesa dull waxy
(6) It shouldbe completelyfree from grittinessand
be non-drying' rticks to crumbleduring use'
65-6.9'Cand is used
(7) It should be non-initating to the skin of lips' (b) Candelilla wax : It has a meltingpoint of
is very good for
ln 5-10%. A mixture of candelilla** "ttd beeswax
42 A HANDBOOKOF COSMETICS
making lipstick. If candelillawax is used a little in excessthan beeswax
the product gets a smooth and glossy appearance.
(c) Carnauba wax : It increasesthe melting point of the base and
hardens the lipstick. It needs to be used in small amounts' It brings an
attractive lustre to the product. It's melting point is 80 to 88"C.
(d) Ozokerite wax : It is also mainly used to increasethe melting
point of the base. It melts at 60-80"C and is used in 3-l0o/o' If it is used
in excess the sticks tend to crumble during application.
(e) Ceresin wax : it is also called paraffrn wax or mineral wax. It's
melting point is 60-75oC and is used in about 5Yo to increase melting
point.
(f) Cetyl alcohol and cetostearyl alcohol : These two substances
are used in small amounts, in 2-3o/o,in the lipstick for emollient action
on the lip skin. The melting points are 45-50"C and 42'45"C respectively.
At higher concentration (above 5%) they give a dull appearanceto the
lipstick which develops to a 'bloom' on storage. High concentration
also leads to crystal formation, on storage,on the surface of the stick"
(2) oils
The oil mixture is required to blend properly with the waxes to
provide a suitable film on the applied lip skin. It also acts as a solvent
for eosin dyestuffs or as a dispersing agent for insoluble pigments. An
ideal rnixture is one which enables the product to spread easily and
produces a thin film with good covering power.
(a) Castor oil : Castor oil is used in many lipsticks becauseof its
good qualities, though nowadays some other oils or solvents are being
used. A refined grade castor oil is of good colour and is odourless and
tasteless. Castor oil is a very good plasticising agent. An antioxidant is
to be added to the castor oil against rancidification though it is not as
prone to rancidification aS other vegetable oils like olive oil or almond
oil. High viscosity of castor oil makes the dispersion of pigments long
stable during the mixing and moulding stages of manufacture. Nor-
maliy, about 40-50% of castor oil is used. But when a higher proportion
is used the proporlion of high melting point waxes needs to be ad.iusted
to get a high melting point base mixture.
(b) Tetrahydrofurfuryl alcohol and its esters : This alcohol and
its esters like acetate, stearate, ricinoleate are also used in lipstick
preparation. The acetate has very good solvent prclperty for the eosin
dye. But the volatile property of the solvent can lead to smudging of the
outline by evaporation from the hotter inner surface and deposition on
t'h 4 liKrNcoLoRANTS 43
lhc cooler edges. The acetate has an unpleasant taste and odour. But
tlourate and ricinoleate are lood and non-volatile but their solvent
ptopcrty is a little less.
(c) Fatty acid alkaylamides : They are non-volatile and have no
rrrrgrlcasant
taste or odour. They increasethe stability of the lipsticks but
do rrot have emollient action. They help in dispersing the pigments.
(d) Paraflin oil : It is used in not more than 5To to give a glossy
Hpl)caranceafter application. In higher proportion the oil will come off
llrc lips and run around the lips. It also acts as lubricant to facilitate
rerrrovalof sticks from the moulds after pouring.
(c) Isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate and butyl stearate :
llresc are also used to facilitate smooth application. Due to their low
rrrrlirce tension they have a good wetting effect on insoluble dyes and
pigrncnts,and also act as mutual solvents for oils and waxes. Presence
ol hinders is required to incorporate isopropyl myristate, otherwise it
trruyseparateout becauseof its low surfacetension.
Apart from the waxes and oils, sometime fats are incorporated in the
llJrslicksto serve the purpose of giving more body to the film on the lips,
rrrroothingthe skin of the lips or softeningit. It also helps in dispersion
ol'irrsoluble pigments. The substanceswhich are normally incorporated
sle cocoa butter (theobroma oil), hydrogenatedvegetable fats.
'l'hc use of acetoglycerideshas also been recommendedin lipsticks
to
Irrrprovethixotropic properties of sticks and to maintain constantviscos-
lly cvcn in higher temperature. They also improve the plasticity of the
fl l ttron the l i ps.
(l) Rromo Mixture
'l'he bromo mixture is, essentially,a solution of the staining
dyestuff
Itr n fatty material to enable the dyestuff to remain either wholly or
gtnrtinllyin solution. Apart from the fatty rnaterials mentioned earlier,
carluin other fatty materials have a specific function as a constituent of
hrurno mixture. This is the portion of the product which imparts an
Itrrlclible stain as distinct from the opaque film of colour given by
Inroluble pigments. As the present-daychoice is the product with high
rteining qualities instead of the product whioh covers the lips with a
lltlck film of vividly coloured materials, bromo mixture is widely used.
'l'hc
dyestuff of bromo mixture, known as bromo acids, consists of
fluuresceins,halogenatedfluoresceins and related water insoluble dyes.
(l ri gi nal l y the br om o acid nam e was given t o acid eosin,
telrnhromofluorescein. Bromo acid colours can be classified broadlv
44 A HANDB@K OF COSMETICS
into two groups,thosewhich are red and give a red or reddish-bluestain,
give a pink to yellowish-pinkstain.
and thosewhich are orange,red and
In general,lipstick formulationsare not high stainingtypes,about2-37o
of bromoacid is used,normally,in castoroil and butyl stearatemixture.
Other solventsused are tetrahydrofurfurylalcohol and esterslike
acetate, stearateand benzoate,glycerol derivatives like glyceryl
glyceryl monolaurateand diethyleneglycol monostearate.
monostearate,
Propyleneglycol, triethyleneglycol and polyethyleneglycol are also
usedas suitablecolour solvents.
A typical exampleof bromo mixture is given below:
Bromo acid 15 gm
200 gm
Propyleneglycol
100 gm
Propyleneglycol monomyristate
First a clear solution of bromo acid and propylene glycol is tq be
made by adding the bromo acid to propylene glycol. To this solution
propylene glycol monomyristate is to be added. This blend gives a
solution of bromo acid that easily mixes with mineral oil and castor oil
and produces a homogeneousmass with waxes.
(4) Colours
The colour of the lipstick is most important from commercial and
appealing points of view. Up to 1920 carmine was widely used as a
lipstick pigment. As of today lots of dyestuffs and lakes are available to
choose from.
The colour is imparted to the lips in two ways-
(a) By staining the skin with a srclution of dyestuff which can
penetratethe outer layer of the lip skin.
(b) By covering the lips with a coloured layer which serves to hide
any skin roughness and give a smooth appearance,
The first requirement is met by soluble dyes and the second one is
met by insoluble dyes and pigments which make the film more or less
opaque. Modern lipsticks contain both to achieve the combined effect.
The colours should be from the list of certified dyes under the Drugs and
Cosmetics Act.
(a) Staining dyes : The rnost widely used staining dyes are
fluorescein, eosin and often halogenated fluorescein, which have been
mentioned under bromo acids. Fluorescein and its derivatives can
produce sensitization or photosensitization leading to cheilitis (inflam-
mation of the red portinn of the lips).
Ch.4 SKIN COLORANTS 45
Also their water solubility character poses problem for formulation.
llut when water soluble dyes are converted to the free sulpho acid form,
tltoy become water-insoluble, lipophillic and suitable for use as staining
dycs.
(b) Insoluble dyestuffs and lake colours : These are the colouring
ngentswhich cover the thin layer over the lips. They consist of calcium,
hnrium, aluminium and strontium lakes. Calcium and barium lakes
prcpared from azotype dyestuffs are also used. These are called lake
frttrcrs. These dyestuffs are used in 10-15% depending on the shade and
opncity of the film. Aluminium lakes are not usually preferred because
ol'lheir lack of opacity, but they can be used in transparentlipsticks.
While making of lakes, the possibility of incompatibility with the
hnsehas to be considered.
'l'itanium dioxide is often used at levels up to lYo as white pigment
tirr brightening the colour, obtaining pink shades,and giving opacity to
thc llhn on the lips. This substanceshould be added with great care to
nvoid formulation problems like oily exudation, streaking, dullness and
coarsetexture.
(5) I'reservatives, Fragrances, Surfactants and Other Additives
It is very much essentialto include a preservative in the product to
Itrcvcnt microbial growth. 0. l% propyl parahydroxybenzoate,in 0.1%o,
ic used for this purpose. Higher concentration of 0.2o/ocan cause a
rlightly burning sensation or can initiate an eosin allergic reaction.
Otlrer oil soluble preservativesalso can be used but compatibility has to
he considered.
Perfumesare an essential component to mask the odour of the fatty
lft wix baseas well as to impart an attractive flavour. Perfumesare used
Itt the concentration runge of 2-4%. Special considerationis to be given
kr sclect perfurnesfree of irritating effect and without disagreeabletaste
Ettd flavour. Since the users apprehendthe perfume in the mouth and
nosc, flavour must be taken care of along with odour. Perfume should
hc stable and compatible with the other constituentsof the lipstick base.
'l'ltr, fiagrancesshould not
be very strong as to clash with or overpower
ollrcr perfumes that may be used concurrently with the lipstick. Floral
etttl light spicy fragranceare much used and acceptable. Perfumesof the
lirrit flavour type have been advocated as well. Also something edible
cntt be used.
Normally antioxidants are also suggested to be incorporated in
lipstick formulations to prevent rancidifioation of oily base during stor-
 46 A HANDBOOKOF COSMETICS
('lr 4 SKINCOLORANTS
47
age. Cornbination of proper antioxidants are preferred for this purpose.
Antioxidants commonly used in lipsticks are butylated hydroxyanisore enlrilpmentof air. The mass should not be melted after the high melting
(BHA), propyl gallate, butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), citric acid, point waxes have been added. Gentle stirring is coritinued until the mass
2,5-di-tert-butylhydroquinone etc. lr lurrnogeneousand it is then poured in lubricated moulds.
Surfactants are occasionally added to the lipstick. They are used to Automatic ejection mould is preferable for large quantities and split
promote wetting and stabilize the dispersion of insoluble pigments in the trrouldsare satisfactory for small-scaleproduction. The mould is lubri-
base. But such additives may influence the consistencyof the stick. urtcd with liquid paraffin or isopropyl myristate before'pouring the
rnnss. No excess lubricant should be left in the mould surface. The
Some other materials have been suggested for use as additives to
ttrixcd mass should be poured into the mould at as low a temperatureas
enhance the value of the make-up. oil-soluble sun-screensare used to
ltrssible to prevent settling down of colours. Also the moulds may be
filter the suns rays and protect lips from sun blisters. A silicon fluid can wnlrned before pouring the mass to avoid formation of ridges. After
be used as a fixative and to prevent colours from bleeding on the lips. porrling the mass the moulds are chilled to achieve contraction of the
Polyvinyl pyrolidone is known "to form film on the lips and reduce
wnxcs to facilitate easy removal of the sticks.
tendency towards allergenic reaction and is used in 0.5 to l%o. It also
Automatic ejection moulds are fitted with a water iacket which is
helps in binding of dyestuff. Isopropyl linoleate is used to prevent
lqctl to warrn or chill the mould as required.
drying effects.
l ,l l tsti ck Formul ae
General Preparation of Lipsticks
scveral representativelipstick formulae are listed below. Each for-
Successful preparation of lipstick shades depends largely upon
rrrrlrrcan be modified by a slight modification in proportions of oils and
adequate dispersion of the lake colours in the lipstick mass. It is
tvnxcsand other ingredientsto adjust proper melting point, spreadability,
advisable to preparedispersionsof the lake colours in castor oil. Disper-
nrrtl thickness of the film on the lips according to the particular charac-
sions are preferably preparedby milling, generally as25Yoconcentrations,
f*r'islics required. The formulae can vary in proportions of lake colours
in castor oil. Also ready-made dispersions are available in the market
enrl bromo acids. Titanium dioxides may or may not be part of the
from manufacturersof cosmetic colours.
lorrrrrrladependingon the requirement. perfume, preservativeand anti-
A general outline for the manufacture of lipsticks follows- rrrrirlnntshould be added in proper quantity to achieve the best effect.
If a solvent is used for bromo acid, this solution is first prepared and
set aside until required. If commercial colour pastes (as mentioned For m ulaI
above) are not being used the lake colours are first dispersedby mixing Castor oil 54.0 gm
with suitable quantity (as 25%ow/w) of castor oil, and the colour paste Lanolin, anhydrous 11.0gm
obtained is passedthrough a triple roll mill until it is smooth and free Candelilla wax 9.0 gm
from agglomeratesand gritty particles. If titanium dioxide is used in the Isopropyl myristate 8.0 gm
formula, the same is also made into a paste similarly and mixed with the White beeswax 5.0 gm
colour mix. The colour mixtrlre is then mixed with the bromo-acid Carnauba wax 3.0 gm
mixture. All the ingredients of the base are identified and arranged in Ozokerite wax 3.0 gm
order of increasing melting point. The lower melting point fats and Eosin 2.0 gm
waxes are next melted together and mixed with colours and bromo Lakes 5.0 gm
mixtures at the same temperature. This mixture is re-milled until Rose flavour q.s.
perfectly smooth. The preservative and antioxidant is dissolved in any Antioxidant q.s.
remaining oil and added to the mix. The high melting point waxes are Preservative q.s.
now melted and added to the bulk at the same temperature. The perfume For m ula2
is f-rnally added anul the mass stirred thoroughly blrt gently to avoid Beeswax 15.0gm
Ozokerite wax 10.0gm
 49
48 A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS T'h 4 SKIN COLORANTS

Colour l0'0 gm
Carnaubawax 5.0 gm
Perfume q's'
Ceresinwax 4.0 gm
Antioxidant q's'
Lanolin 5.0 gm
Preservative q's' .
Lanolin, anhydrous 14.0gm
properties'
Isopropylmyristate . 10.0gm l'lrc aboveproductis non-greasytype with good staining
Diethyl sebacate 10.0gm
Castoroil Formula5
15.0gm 39.0 gm
Eosin 2.0 gm Castor oil
Beeswax 5.0 gm
Colour lakes 10.0gm
Lanolin 3.0 gm
Antioxidant q.s.
Isopropyl mYristate 2.0 gm
Perfume q.s.
Ozokerite wax 5.0 gm
Preservative q.s.
Carnauba wax 4.0 gm
Formula3 Propylene glYcol 6.0 gm
Camauba wax Candelilla wax 7.0 gm
3.5 gm
Candelilla wax 7.5 gm Glycerin monostearate 3.0 gm
Ozokerite wax (white) Acetylated monoglyceride (solid) 7.0 gm
3.5 gm
Bepswax, yellow 4.0 gm Acetylated monoglyceride (liquid) 5.0 gm
Paraffin 2.0 gm Eosin 2.0 gm
Hexadecyl stearate 8.0 gm Colour 12.0gm
Castor oil q.s.
15.4gm Perfume
Lanolin oil Antioxidant q.s.
30.0 gm
Oleyl alcohol Preservative q.s.
, 15.0gm
Tenox II 0.1 gm t
Fo.mula6
Colour 10.0gm 2.50 gm
Carnauba wax
Perfume 1.0gm
Candelilla wax 6.00 gm
Antioxidant q.s. 2.50gm
Preservative Ozokerite wax
q.s. 6.00 gm
Beeswax
Lanolin 8.00 gm
Formula 4
Castor oil 55.00gm
Castoroil 27.0 em
-l
IsoproPYl mYristate 4.00 gm
Beeswax 20.0 gm
Halogenatedfl uorosceins 3.00 gm
Paraffin oil 3.0 gm
Lake colours 12.00gnt
Lanolin 5.0 gm
Propyl-p-hYdroxY benzoate 0.20 gm
Cetyl alcohol 2"0 gm
Perfume 0.80gm
Isopropylmyristate 3.0 gm
Ozokeritewax 10.0gm Formula7
Carnaubawax 2.5 gm 15.0gm
Castor oil
Propyleneglycol 11.0gm 5.0 gm
Butyl stearate
Propyleneglycolmonoricinoleate 4.0 gm 7.0 gm
Abracol l.S.L.
Eosin 2.5 gm 2.0 gm
Emulsenel2l2
 50 5I
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS; i,h 4 IiKINCOLORANTS
Beeswax talc,
20.0 gm nrrrl lakes in dry form, mixed with standardpowder materials like
Spermaceti 10.0gm Compact rouges additionally
rirr: stcarate and magnesium carbonate.
Petroleumjelly 12"0gm rilrrtlrin a binder and are compressedin tablet form. Compact rouges are
Hydrogenated palm kernel oil 15.0gm Irrolc popular than loose powder becausethey dust less on application
Acid eosin 1.0gm nrrrlrrtlherebetter to the skin dtte to presenceof binders'
Titanium dioxide
1.0gm
Lake colour According to the intensity of the pigment and the intended colouring
12.0gm the
Perfume ellct:t of the powder, the pigment content is usually 5 to 20Yo of
q.s. sometimes, wholly or partly replaced by
Antioxidant lrrw(lor mass. Pigments are,
q.s intense colour effect and are used in lesser
Preservative i'kes which produce more
q.s.
rilrrrrrtities.Rouges, sometimes,additionally contain water-soluble dyes'
stain
IrEtrlrrblecolorants remain on the skin, whereas, the soluble ones
(2) ROUGE loose and non-permanent. Some
tlre skin tissue itself. Stain should be
,.Rouge can be defined as the cosmetic preparations given
used to apply a lllrrstrative examples of powder rouges and compact rouges are
colour to the cheeks. lThe colour can vary
from the pur"rt orpint, to tt l rr' l ow :
deep blue reds but the conventionar roug"
contains a high proportion of" lrreparation Add the perfume with magnesium carbonateor starch
red or reddish brown pigments. The tint
us ing wate r-i n s o l u b l e c o ro u rs s u c h
or colour may be achieved by rrr'otlrer adsorbent,mix properly and keep it covered for half an hour'
organic pigments or by using water-sorubre
as i ron oxi des and certai n Mix the remaining powders thoroughly and sieve through fine muslin'
organic colours which actu- Arld the carbonate and then the required colour' Mix
ally stain the skin. products containi
llrrrroughly -ugn"rir-
and store in a suitable oontainer'
colours are used as toners for specii
should be selected carefully to avo
FOWI}ER ROUGE,S
proportion of a suitable bromo acir
For m ulaI
and attractive blushing effect.
Zinc stearate 14.5gm
Over the years lots of changes have occurred
in rouge composition. Rice starch 14.5gm
Ancient people used to colour their cheeks
with a .olot, ,"u**"d o, Talc 55.0gm
cinnabar' people started using red ochre, vermitiorr,'"oct Pigments 14.0gm
ineat or
extracts of-Later
sandalwood or brazilwood. In the early Perfume 2.0 gm
tweniies the tiquid
rouges' dry rouges or greaserouges basicaily
containing i"."'ni.",
etc. were used. "ori", FormulaJ-
Magnesium carbonate (light) 8.3 gm
One of the oldest forms of rouge is the type
known as cream rouge. Precipitated chalk 16.6 gm
I,T^:od"rl rouge preparations the pigments
or corours are present in Zinc oxide 8.3 gm
different form of carriers unrt uc"ordingry
can be classified into four 12.4 gm
types but dry rouge is the most .o-rnoJy Rice starch
und *id.ly ur.a fp"_ 37.4 gm
Talc
(l) Powder rouges 15.0gm
Pigments
(2) Anhydrous cream rouges/wax based ,.9 E!
rouges Perfume
(3) Emulsion cream rouges
(4) Liquid rouges Formula p
(l) Powder rouges :r-powderrouges Zinc oxide 8.5 gm
are normally marketed as loose 25.5 gm
powders and compressedpowders or Lanolin
compacts. They contain pigments
 52 A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS 53
t,h"{ SKIN COLORANTS
Magnesiumcarbonate(light) 17.0gm Formul*!l'
Talc 34.0 gm Kaolin 5.0 gm
Pigments 13.0gm Calcium carbonate 5.0 grn
Perfume 2.0 gm Magnesiumcarbonate 5.0 gm
Zinc stearate 5.0 gm
Formula l l
/ Talc 75.0 gm
Kaolin 16.0gm 5.0 gm
Zinc oxide Pigments
12.0gm q.s.
Magnesiumstearate Perfume
2.0 gm Binder q.s.
Zinc stearate 1.0gm
Magnesiumcarbonate 3.0 gm BINDER
Talc 60.0 gm IsopropYlmYristate 50/o wlw
Colours 6.0 gm Lanolin absorPtionbase 50ohwlw
Perfume q.s. perfume with magnesrum
Mix the binding materials together' Mix
Compact rouges can be made by dry process or wet process. In dry materials' Add to the remaining
lnrhonate and add ,o tt'" bindilng
process the powdered binder, such as tragacanth, acacia, is compress into godets'
added in the irrgrcclientsand mix well' Grind and
mix and compressed. The binder is used as l% of the total mass. As formulae of dry rouges
an
alternative binding material small amounts of a lanolin derivative l;or compactsby wet process,any of the basic
and binding agents:
isopropyl myristate can be used. Zinc oxide is also used, in 5-r0yo, r urr hc mixed with the following
to l '0 gm
increase adhesion. Metallic stearatesare arso essential components Tragacanth
of 2'0 gm
compact rouges as dry binders and to increase adhesion of the products Alcohol
Water 97'o gm
to the skin. 0'2 o/oof the above
Methyl parahydroxy benzoate
In wet process the binding agent is prepared separatelyand is made add water in a continuous
of materials like tragacanth gum, a mixture of soap and tragacanthgum, Mix the tragacanth with alcohol and then
24 hours with stining occasion-
and polyvinyl pyrrolidone. The binding agent is mixed with blrcunl and stir well. Allow to stand for
other is to be dissolved in water
materials and compressedto cake. nlly, and pass through muslin' Preservative
wiilr hcat before adding to the tragacanth'
l '3 gm
Formula12 Tragacanth
4'o gm
Talc 48.0 gm Soa! chips
94'7 gm
Kaolin water
16.0gm 0'2 o/o of the above
Zinc stearate Methyl parahydroxy benzoate
6.0 gm
chips with suffrcient hot
Zinc oxide 5.0 gm Itropare a concentrated solution of the soap
paste' Add the remaining
Magnesiumcarbonate 5.0 gm wrrlcr atrd use this to-prepare a tragacanth
Rice starch 10.0gm wrrlcr in a continuous stream and mix well'
Titanium dioxide 4.0 gm occasionally' and pass
Allow to stand tbr 24 hours with stining
Colours 6.0 gm preservativein water with the
tlrrorrghmuslin before use' Dissolve the
Perfume q.s. mix'
,ri,l ,,1 heat before adding to the soap tragacanth
Mix the perfume with magnesium carbonate and keep aside with 'l'lrc binding agent is added, in sufficient amount' to the coloured
cover. Mix other ingredients thoroughly. Add magnesium carbonate pressed into
a fairly damp paste' This is then
and mix. Add colour and mix and then compress. lrowtlcr mix to prepare pressure moulded to
or
gorlcls hy subjecting it to a graOuatty increasing
at normal temperature in a
e rlclinite shape' The Uio"tti are thln dried
i'i
Ih1 S K I N C O L O RAN TS
54 A HANDBOoKoF cosMETrcs
Stearicacid 16.0gm
current of air. Undue heating should be avoided as it can split thc
Lakes 5.5 gm
product and can vaporize the perfume. During drying they are kept on q.s.
Perfume
blotting paper to absorb excess moisture. After drying they are trimmecl
oils' fats' and waxes in
with a special rotating knife to give a perfectly smooth finish to the Mix and grind the lakes together' Mix
just abovethe meltingpoint of the
surface. Then they are stuck with a suitable adhesive to the base of the lrrrrcrrsingmeltingpoint and heai to
melt andgrind the mixturea
container. i,igf tn'"tring**. Stit pigmentsinto th:
'"*t perfumetowardsthe end of
lew tirrreson a heated,.ipf" iofftt mill' Add
(2) Anhydrous cream rouges/wax based rouges : In this type the
l l f( l (rcsq.
base is wax type. They resemble the lipstick but are normally of bigger popular because of their
size. In these rouges the colours are dispersed in a fat-oil-wax base. (J) Emulsion cream rouges : These are
cold cream or of the vanishing
They have advantages over powder rouges. They form a coniinuou, ente rtf application unJ "* b"eof the
point of view' these preparationsare
film on the skin which looks more natural than loose powder;' As these , r.,,,rl typ". From a dermatological
wetting and emulsiffing.agents
basesare water-repellentthey avoid the risk of perspiration and making rr,,t n., teneficial as in the preience of
penetratethe skin through hair follicles and
the make-up run. The melting point of the base should not be below allitl rlye particles
"un "u'ity irritation' So'
40"C and is often 60oC or above. Occasionally these rouges are qlrrrll fissures. If not remtved soon it can also cause
while using this
formulated as thixotropic preparation, so that, they can be solid in the
j,r,,i,., with cleansing cream is very important
"f"*lng
container but liquefu when pressed on the skin and spread easily. To ly;rc rl[' rouges.
preparationsto stain the
achieve the thixotropic character high melting point waxes are required Water-solubledyes are often used in these
also used but must be as finely
to form a skeleton to accommodate the oil. Microcrystalline waxes or clttt. llowever, insoluble pigments are
colours are used' it is neces-
amorphous substancesto prevent the sweating of the oils. rlt'.1telscdas possible' When water-soluble
of hygroscopic substanceslike
silrv lo incorporate sufficient quantity
of water and darkening
Formula 14 gir'.",.trt,glycols, sorbitol to preYentevaporation
Beeswax can be made using beeswax-
16.0gm rl llrc cream surface. The preparations
Petrolatum (short fibre) emulsiffing agent'
4.0 gm lrorirx combination or by using a separate
Castor oil (semi-hydrogenated) 54.0 gm
Paraffin oil ll.0 gm Formula 17
Lanolin
4.0 gm
Lanolin (light) 5.0 gm
Lakes Cocoa butter
4.0 gm
10.0gm
Perfurne Beeswax 14.0gm
q.s
Liquid paraffin
26'0 gm
Forrnula 15 Cetyl alcohol
1.0 gm
Petrolatum(short fibre) 40.0 gm Water 44.2 gm
Isopropyl myristate 35.0gm Borax
0.8 gm
Lanolin (light) 5.0 gm Colour 7'0 gm
Glyceryl monostearate 12.0gm Perfumes
q.s.
Lakes 8.0 gm Preservative
q.s.
Perfume q.s
Formula 18
Formula 16 Petrolatum (short fi bre)
20.0 gm
Ceresin 32.5 gm Beeswax
14.0gm
Petrolatum(short fibre) 13.5gm IsopropYl mYristate
30.0gm
Paraffin oil 2.5 gm
 56 A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS 57
{'h,I SKTNCOLORANTS
Cetyl alcohol 3.0 gm C. Pigments 5.00 gm
Triethanolamine lauryl sulphate 0.4 gm Perfume q.s.
Borax 1.0 gm (watersoluble)
Preservatives q.s.
Water 21.6 gm Sepa-
Propyleneglycol Mix together the ingredients of 'A' and heat at about 70oC'
12.0gm
Lake tn| e| yrni xthei ng r edient sof . B'andheat t osam et em per at ur eof . A'
8.0 gm Pigments are to be
Perfume tlrixtrrrcand add to 'A' slowly with constant stirring'
q.s. dispersedin part of
Preservative nrklcrl to the semi-processedproduct, preferably as
q.s. at 35oC'
propylcne glycol. Allow to cool and add the perfume
Dispersethe finely powderedcolour basewith the melted fats and
or hydro-
oils. Preparea solutionof borax in water at about 7s"c andmix with (,1) Liquid rouges : The liquid rouges consist of aqueous
must be highly
the first one slowly with stirring untir emulsionis formed. Finallv mill nl.r,lr.rlic colour solutions. The colours selected
they have some attractivenessbut do
it. Preservative shouldbe addedto water. errhrilnrttiveto the skin. Though
or dry rouges' Their application is
lot lurvc as good appeal as the iream
Formula19 ueur.r.l fup-pti "At nt f ut t yt heycanpr oducever ygoodef f ect 'Nor m ally
A. Arlacel C (Sorbitansesquioleate) easy application' It
2.0 gm rr wick is attached at the neck of the container for
Lanolin (anhydrous) and should also dry
2.0 gm slrrrrrltlhave good viscosity for easy application
Mineral oil 16.0gm rl rti ckl y.
Petrolaturp(white) 30.0 gm the colour in
Aqueous preparationsare basically made by dissolving
Preservative (oil soluble) q.s. gum or synthetic thickener'
rr visrrottsaqueous medium containing a
B. Arlex 5.0 gm I ilvccrirr is also incorporated sometimes'
Brilliantred (c-10.01 3) 10.0.gm
Water 35.0 gm Formula2l
Perfume Erythrosine 0.5 gm
q.s
Propylene glYcbl 20.0 gm
The aboveis a water-in-oiltype rougeand providesa productwhich gm
Ethyl alcohol 10.0
is soft and creamyand possesses excelrentspreadingproperties.Sinceit gm
Rosewater 69.5
is of the water-in-oiltype, it has lesstendencyto dry oui.
mixed-with
Mix the ingredientsof 'A' and preservativetogetherand heat at l'hc colour is first mixed with propyleneglycol and then
a sotulion. It is then stored in a suitable
about70oc. In a separatevesselheatingredientsof 'B' to 70-75"c and otlrer ingredientsto make
add 'B' to 'A' slowly with constantstirringto makean emulsion.Allow I i l nl i l ttl er.

to cool and add the perfumeat 35"C. Mill it. Formula22

Sodium alginate 0.45 gm
Formula 20
Calciunt citrate 0.15 gm
A . Stearicacid 14.25gm 0.20 gm
Wetting agent
Isopropylmyristate 2.25 gm 0.20 gm
Water soluble dYe
Lanolin 3.25 gm 99.00 gm
Rose water
Beeswax 4.50 gm q.s.
Preservative
Glycerolmonostearate 7.00 gm
'l'lrc: wetting agent, sodium alginate and dye are first dissolved in
B. Propyleneglycol 4.75 gm
Glycerin n| xl tl | 6()ml rosewat er . Calcium cit r at eisslur r edinanot her 30m lr ose
3.00gm of the alginate
rvrrrcrilnd added to the first portion when thickening
Water 56.00gm and volume made'
sillrrtiorrstarted. Preservativesare added afterwards
 58 A HANDBOOK OF COSMETI('S

Then store in a suitable container. The viscosity can t h { 'sKlN CoLoRANTS 59

be altered b1,
varying the proprrrtion of alginate and calcium citrate.
elrlrrll hc stored at that temperature for at least 30 minutes prior to the
tFrl
Formula23
Methyl cellulose 2.0 gm tlll) 'I'hixotropy character : This is an indication of thixotropic
Wetting agent 0.1 gm qttrrlrtyarrd is done,by using penetrometer. A standardneedle of specific
Water 97.5gm tllurrrclt:ris allowed to penetrate for 5 seconds under a 50 gm load at
Water-soluble dye 0.4 gm !r"t' 't'lrolipstick is kept at25oC priorto the experiment. The depth of
Perfume q.s. perrrlrulionis a measurementof the thixotropic structure. Penetrationof
Preservative q.s. I trr l().-5mrn is indicative of a soft and thixotropic structure.
This can be prepared by simple mixing. perfume and preservatives A lrroduct of high droop point with soft, thixotropic structure will
are to be added later. preservative can be dissolved initiaily c good application characteristics.
Brarrr
in water.
Methyl cellulose can be replaced by 0.4 gm tragacanth. (lv) Force of application : This is a test for comparativemeasurement
r,f llrr' lirrce to be applied for application. Two lipsticks, end cut to get
Evaluation
llnl trrllhce, are kept opposite way by mechanical holders. Lower
It is very essential to maintain a uniform high standard
for lipsticks llprlrr'1, standingupright and fixed. Upper lipstick is moving downward,
and rouges, for which severar tests have to be carried
out incruding lry rrree:hanical means under a given weight, to the flat surface of the
identification and their individual proportions. Special
tests are also to lrrrverslick. A strip of smooth paper is attached to a dynamometer and
be carried out for lipsticks and rouges.
b rltrrwn between the two lipstick ends at a constant speed. The force
Tests for Lipsticks tFrlrre(l to pull the paper against a given specific weight is measured
Frr'l r orrrparedwith those made on other sticks of same diameter.
The finished lipsticks are required to be subjected to various
tests. Altcrrratively a piece of coarse brown paper can be kept on a shadow
Identification of ingredients and their quantity can
be determined by grrr;rlrbllance and the lipstick can be applied, at 45" angle, to cover a
normal chemical analysis tests, though it is not a very
easy task as a I rr;rrurc inch area until fully covered. The pressure reading is an
variety of ingredients are present.
Irrrlilrlion of force of application,though it may dependon the operator.
(i) Melting point : Determination of merting point
is important and (v) Aging stabilify : The product is stored at 40"C and periodical
it is determined by capiilary tube method by keeping
the size of capil- rrhqetvirtionof oil bleed, crystallization of wax on surface, and applica-
lary, length of fill, and rate of heating constant. Another
impofiant test llnn t ltirr:rcteristics
is made.
of similar nature is yierd point or droop point. Droop
point is th"
temperature at which the lipstick, rying flat in its case, (vl) Perfume stability : This is also done by storing at 40"C and
wrtt-mett within
the case and ooze out oil or flatten out. This is a indication S,rriorlicirllycomparing, after bringing the temperaturedown; with a
of the rimit
of safe storage. Droop point should preferably be above fl erl r l i psti ck.
50oc for safe
handling and storage. Merting point should be higher (vla, Oxidative stability : Oxidative stability is predicted by standard
than the droop
point. rlolerrrrination of peroxide value after exposureto oxygen under given
(ii) Breaking point : This test is done to determine r rttrl i li rl rs,
the strength of
the lipstick" The lipstick is heli horizontally in a socket hlil) Surface anomalies: This is studiedbythe surfacedefects,such
% inch above
the base and weight is applied on the lipstick, t/z inch qn lorrrrirlionof crystals on surface, contamination by moulds, fungi etc.
away from the
edge of the support. The weight is gradually increased lrr111111i,rrt
of wrinkles, exudation of liquid substancesand of solid fatly
by a specific
value (say 10 gm) at a specific interval of 30 seconds
and the weight at ttccS .
li, which the iipstick breaks is considered as the breaking point.
The test
--ttl rr,l rt

1lr) Accelerated stabilify test : Accelerated stability test aging can

should be done at a specific temperature (say 25"ci
and the ripstick l,a',trrrliedat higher temperature(45'C) or alternatelykeeping at 45oC
4il,1(t'(' :rnd observinsthe chanses.
 60 A HANDBOOK OF COSMI ilr ,,

Tests for Rouges

Apart from general tests for identification and estimation. bv sorrr,
chemical or instrumental analysis, of ingredients, som other CHAFIIER-5
specrtr,
tests are to be carried out to evaluate and control the products.
(i) Melting point : Melting point is determined,specifically
li,r
cream rouges, by capillary tube method. The melting point preferalrrr
Skin Creams
should not be below 50oc for good storage and apprication point .r
view.
the
(ii) colour dispersion : colour dispersionis checkedunder sh in care is the age old necessityof mankind. This necessitylead to
micr, ('rlrtinuous modification and invention of more and more skin care
scope and no particle, above 50 p, should be there. colour particrc.,
above 50 p size may cause agglomeration and corour particles r'rtsnreticpreparations'
may rr,.
easily identifiable.
(iii) Aging stability : This is done by keeping the product
ar ovcr
40"c for a one month period and noting the changesand comparing
wirrr
fresh products. Also product can be periodically kept at 40oc,'.oo,,,
temperature and in refrigerator for a specific period, about 2
weeks arrtl
noting the changes.
(iv) Container compatibirity : As theseproducts,particurarly
crear'
rouges, are marketed in plastic tube, compatibility of the product
witlr
plastic is to be checked. This can be studied at higher'temperaturc
(accelerated stability test) to predict the compatibility at
no.-ul ,h.11,
life. tlre skin and to design better skin care preparations'
(v) Sedimentation of riquid rouges : This is to judge
the sedimen. with the availability of wide spectrum additives, like emulsifing
tation rate characterof the liquid rouges, as sedimentatio-nmay preparation of
be there. [gcnts, etc., and development of various techniques,
viscosity of the product is impoftant to have srow sedimentation. I reiunshas become very simple. Mostly, the creams are emulsion type
rurdconsistencycan vary from a liquid to a spreadablesolid'

All the skin care creams can be classihed on different basis-

( l) According to functiofl, .8. cleansing, foundation, massage'etc'
(2) According to characteristicproperties, e'g' cold crearns' vanish-
ing creams,etc.
(3) According to the nature or type of emulsion'
l'he most widely accepted classification is based on function'
According to the functions the creams can be classified as follows-
(l) Cleansing and cold cre.uns
(2) Foundation and vanishing creilns
(3) Night and massage ueilns
(a) Hand and bodY creams
(5) All-purpose and general creams

6l
 63
t'h,t SKIN CREAMS
62 A HANDBOOK OF COSMETI(:S
('hrracteristics
(l) CLEANSTNGAND COLD CREAMS A good cleansing cream should have the following characteristics-
water-
Keeping the body clean is the most important and primitive need on ( l) It should effectively be able to remove oil-soluble and
account of personal hygiene and beautification which leads to the need skin, specifically face and
soluble soil and ,uif^"" oil from the
of cosmetics. Though the natural process of constant sloughing off ol throat.
the uppermost horny cells maintains some cleanliness,but it cannot be
(2) As a cosmetic it should be stable and have a good appearance.
regarded as adequate from the cosmetic point of view. Modern people
derrand a higher degree of cleanliness. ( 1) It should melt or soften on application to the skin'
Cleansing cream or lotion is required for removal of facial make-up, (4) It should spread easily without too much drag' During applica-
surface grime, oil, and water and oil soluble soil efficiently, mainly from tion, it should not feel greasy or oily'
not
the face and throat. A good and properly formulated cleansing cream (5) After evaporation of any water, the cream residue should
should be able to remove, quickly and efficiently, applied cosmetics as become viscous.
face powder, rouge, foundation bases,cake make-up, and lipstick. The ((,) Its physical action on the skin and pore openings should be that
excessive increase in eye make-up also necessitatesuse of cleansing of flushing rather than absorption'
products specially formulated to remove such make-up. (7) A light emollient film should remain on the skin after use of the
Although adequate washing with soap and water will perform the
l cleaning action but a cleansing cream has certain advantages. Washing
cream.
'l'hc method of use of cleansing cream is standard' The cream is to
with soap-water makes the skin look dry. The cleansing cream can stroke
he irpplied to face and throat with fingertips' A rotating upward
i readily remove the chemical substances of the facial make-up by
dissolving or lifting away the greasybinding materialsholding pigments
rrt tlrc lingers is used to spreadthe cream' A tissue paper or soft
cleansing
cloth is
creams'
tlrr.rrrrscdto remove the residue. In case of washable
L

or grime on the skin. Studies have indicated that solidified skin oil, with or without
tlrr ( rr::urt residues may be removed using tap water
sebum over sebaceousor pilosebaceousorifices are resistantto removal
prr,rr l rseof ti ssue.
by scrubbing with soap and water, but can easily be removed by the use
of various commercial cleansing creams, polyethylene glycol 400, and I r'prcsof Cleansing Creams
olive oil. Various fat solvents such as acetone, chloroform, glycerol, l'r'rrditionally,cleansing creams are classified into two categories-
kerosene, white gasoline, dioxane, and 95o/oethanol were found to be
( | ) White, emulsified cold cream (beeswax-boraxtype)'
effective in removal of surface oil layer, but not the slid sebum plaques.
This may be due to the superior efficacy of cleansing creamsto dislodge (.1) 'lranslucent, liqueffing type, anhydrous in characterand consist-
and remove these plaques from the orifices of the sebaceousducts. ing of a mixture of hydrocarbon oils and waxes'
emulsiff-
Ease of application is an irnportant feature of the cleansing cream As a result of the development of several newer and better
nowadays many emulsion type cleansing creams are made
and so most of these creams are liquids so that excesscream and soil are Irrg rrp,.cuts,
then easily removable with tissue. The resultant layer left on the skin r+llllotrlbeeswaxand borax.
must not be occlusive but should be sufficiently emollient to prevent (l ) tlceswax-borax type : The beeswax-boraxtype is a most impor-
are usually
drying. Cold creams on the other hand must primarily have an emollient r,ilrt lrrrnrulationamong cleansingcreams. The typical creams
graininess' The creams have a firm
action. It is also expectedthat they should produce a cooling sensation rrlrrlc. ol'high lustre, and free from
to the skin and spread with
in ustl and the resultant oil fiLn on the skin should be non-occlusive. r,,l.,i',lc:ucy.- They liquefy on application
Frr,,.' I'ltcsecreams contain high percentage of mineral oil for cleansing
r\ cleansing crearn should be easily applicable and spreadable. It the
should cause low irritation to the skin. In addition to the primary elltr rrt'y. Basically, they are oil-in-water type of emulsion' After
rterrilr:iilrc rubbed on the skin, a sufficient quantity of water evaporates
functiorr of cleaning, a multipurpose character can Lreimparted by add-
action
ing appropriate ingredients to bring abilities to soften, lubricate, and t'r lrrl)nlt arphase inversion to the water-in-oil type' The solvent
protect.
 ct r SKINCREAMS
64 OF COSMETICS
A HANDBOOK 2.0 gm
B. Borax
35.5gm
of the oil, as external phase, imparts the cleansing properly. Rose water
q.s.
ln this beeswax-borax type preparation borax reacts with the free Preservative
q.s.
fatty acids present in the beeswax and produces soft soap which acts as C. Perfume
the emulsifiing agent and emulsifies the oil phase, containing beeswax,
mineral oil, paraffin etc., in the aqueousphase.
'ff,rmutas
\ 10.0gm
A . Beeswax
General procedure for manufacturing : As thesq preparations are 50.0 gm
Mineral oil
ernulsion type, the total ingredients can be classified into oil phase and 5.0 gm
Paraffin wax
aqueous phase. Ingredients of oil phase should be taken in increasing 3.0 gm
Spermaceti
meltiqg point. The materials of least melting point should be taken and 28.4 gm
B. Water
melt it. Add the other oil or wax gradually in increasing melting point 0.6 gm
Borax
and melt them with continuous stirring. Take separatelythe ingredients q.s.
Preservative
of aqueous phase and mix them and heat to same temperature as oil q.s.
phase. Emulsifoing agents should be added to specific phase. Mix the C . Perfume
two phases with continuous stirring until a,smooth cream is formed. {rn.11u a
Finally the product can be milled by triple roller mill. Preservative 9.0 gm
should be dissolved in the water before making cream. Perfume should
A. Beeswax 4.5 gm
Ceresin wax
be added after the primary cream is formed and cooled but before final 52.0 gm
Mineral oil
millins. 0.5 gm
Lanolin
0.7 gm
BEESWAX-BORAXCOLD CREAM TYPE B. Borax 33.3gm
F o rmu l aI Water
q.s
A. Mineral oil 28.0gm Preservative
lsopropyl myristate 14.0gm q.s.
C . Perfume
Acetoglyceride 2.5 gm
Petroleum jelly 7.5 gm Formula 5
48.0 gm
Beeswax 15.0gm A. Wheat-germ oil
15.0gm
B. Borax 1.0gm SPermaceti
15.0gm
Water 32.0gm Beeswax
q.s. 21.5gm
Preservative B. Water
0.5 gm
C. Perfume q.s. Borax
, q.s,
Preservative
Heat first five materials (A) and next three materials (B) separatelyin q.s.
(1. Perfume
glass containers at about 75oC. Add the second mixture to the first
mixture slowly with continuous stirring until the thick stable emulsion is Formula 6
8.0 gm
formed. Add the perfume when the temperature has fallen to about A. Beeswax
49.0 gm
35"C. Stir again, mill and store in a suitable container' Mineral oil
7.0 gm
Parafftn wax
\4ormuia 2 1.0 gm
CetYl alcohol
A. Beeswax 2.0 gm
Almond oil 50.0gm
Lanolin 0.5 gm
 A HANDtsOOK OF COSMETI( \
th r $KlNCREAMS
B. Borax
0.4 gm LIQUEFYING CLEANSING CREAMS
Water
34.6 gm Formuh 6
Preservative 80.0 gm
, q.s. Mineral oil
c Perfume
qs. Petroleum jellY 15.0gm
()zokeritewax 5.0 gm
Formula7 g.s.
A Beeswax I'reservative
12.00gm q.s.
Mineral oil Perfume
50.25gm Cool with stitring'
Spermaceti ll'nt all the oils and waxestogetheiat 65"C'
5.00 gm in a suitable
Ozokeritewax Arll prcservative and perfumeafteicooling at 40oC' Store
5.00 gm
Lanolin r.otrlttittcr.
2.00 gm
B Borax Formule9
0.75 gm
Water
25.00gm 25.0 gm
IsoproPYlmYristate
Preservative
q.s. 25.0 gm .,.
Mineral oil
C. Perfume 30.0 gm
q.s. l'etroleum jellY
20.0 gm
(2) Lique$ing creansing creams Paraffin wax
: Thgs-eare transrucentliqueffing q.s
anhydrous type of creansinl Preservative
creams oi-thixotropi" .r,"o.t".]
They
q.s
consist of a mixture of oils and waxes Perfume
and have such consistency trrat
they liquefr when gently massaged
on the skin. The materiars used for Formulal0
preparing these creams 42.0 gm
.are^mineral oil, paraffin, petrolatum, w:xes.
Occasionally vegetable oils,
White mineral oil
fatty acid esters,or lanolin are also 18.0gm
in"o.po_ White PetroleumjellY
rated in small amounts. Proportion 12.0gm
of various materials should be Spermaceti
decided properly and formulation 14.0gm
should be done carefully. Thixotropic Ozokerite wax
wax like paraflin. The proportion 14.0gm
of Oetyl alcohol
q.s.
Preservative
q.s.
Perfume
tum for crystalline ones. The pe Formula ld
mineral oils. 62.5 gm
Mineral oil
For emollient character normally
18.75gm
lanolin or its derivatives, cetyl l)ctrolatum
12.5 gm
alcohol, spermaceti and cocoa Uutt".
ur" lncorporated. Sometimes an l)araffin wax
opaque appearance is preferred and 6'25 gm
can be obiained uy in"o.p-uting llccswax
agents like zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, l'reservative
. q.s.
magnesium stearate,zinc stear- q.s.
ate' or hydrous ranolin. These substun"., l'crfume
u.. normalry used at 2%o
concentration.
(2) FOUNDATION AND VANISHING CREAMS
General procedure.of manufacturing
: Melt the waxes first. Add widely used for- various .pur-
petrolatum and finally the liquid
oils. sti thoroughly, add the perfume Virrrislringand foundation creams are
:i',-r"' to the functions'
after cooling to about 45'c. The melted mixture should be 1r,,u". names have been derived according
firtered. when applied and
Finally it can be passedthrough u
.ott"r rnitt. Verri,,lrirr;,, crearns ur" nut"d so as they disappear
creams serve as a foundation
rrrl,lrrrl irrto the skin. Whereas foundation
 69
68 A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
!.r \KlN ('REAMS
base for the make-up acting as an adherent base for application of make-
up powders. rthey also provide emollient action, and a protective actiorr tilrrorr *usYTd.:f vllltlenature-,::fl ;:tJ:r:::TlJ: H|ien;
itesru
r*-,'r",,r,ir.'
against environment by leaving a semi-occlusive residual film on the cre; buttt" ot':1-"Tl?:":ffl
'irry*r,ir.'."'-^1:.0*ffiffiJ$r3ff tJ, a ,.ra"ncy
tendency to discolout
to dtscolour
skin which is neither too greasy nor too drying. It can also be men- P l r , l , 'r r ,Y
t ( ) g r a l n '.
"*ith : - ^ _ ^ +i mc
"
it aftersome time'
tioned here that another nomenclature, 'Day Creams', is used as these #;;';; ,',,,.t. intain the
: ;,;;;' no,o"*aing107.1 i' 1,:?-:""11T'lt"11"t"nrffi*-
preparations are used during the day in contrast to heavy-night creams.
All these creams must not damage the skin, should be stable and have a ,,,,:l::ili;'"ffi !*e;'*-o'jr'ry,
F||tIqIBtc||cy an-d-q!3lg+-,#*^O.=;Ol
j,*JTfu1#'""1""ii:J;
ication, forming o,f
mlnute
good consistency. fiElrrrr,,it rnay absorb
iJ ou"'"o*"
+.o
^rercorn
by using
bv artematrve
usingaltemative
Normally these preparations are based on stearic acid but can be lil i'1"1,"::H:#H;LJ;;;
l',1,',..1'.,
varied also. Some suitable additives may be incorporatedto impart skin much wanted'
ing creams is very
protecting properties. The formula can be modified suitably to make The materials
tain the fearliness'
genuine skin conditioners with emollient or depth effect or cleansersof sPermaceti'
u'" iio"ia Paraffin'
the massage cream type. The composition of stearatecreams intended '
nond oil'
for daytime use (day creams) is usually very simple.

Vanishing Creams
They are called vanishing creams because they seem to disappear
when rubbed into the skin. These preparationsare stearic acid basedand
part of the stearic acid is saponified with an alkali and rest of the stearic red in airtight contalners'
acid is emulsified with this soap in a large quantity of water.
iAfter*
application the cream leaves a dry but tacky residual film which also has
a drying effect on the skiil Because of this reason the stearic acid soap
based creams are still favoured for use with greasy skin conditions and
particularly in hot climatesT--which cause perspiration on the face and
where more emollient creanis are not suitable.

$inest quality triple-pressed stearic acid of melting point of about

55"C is normally used. The high quality stearic acid plovides an oil
phase,which melts above body temperatureand crystallizes in a suitable
cfilrElrlcrocl'
form, provides an invisible and non-greasy film and can produce a very
attractive appearance) Normally 20-3Oo of free fatty acids is neutral-
ized by using alkali,'either potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide)
Characters of the creams vary according to the proportion of the stearic
acid present {!e total proportion should not exceed 25Yo, and best
preparations are obtained using l6-207o neutralizatior| fne consistency
and texture of the cream also depends on the amount of acid saponified
and the nature of alkali used.(Sodium hydroxide makes a harder creams
than potassium hydroxide) The amount of alkali is required to be
calculated on the basis of 6mount of free acid available. Formula 12
20.00gm
(pa,t from potassi um hydrox ide, trglbqplquoing.-is -also an exceI lent A. Stearic acid 0.50 gm
-
alkali to prepare good quality creatns. Use of triethanolamine makes the CetYl alcohol- 1.20gm
Triethanolamine
 70 A HANDBOOK OF COSMEI'I( S
th! \ h r N ( 'r i l ; A M S
7l
B Sodiumhydroxide 0.36 gm
Glycerin 8.00 gm Sodium hydroxide 0.36 gm
Water 69.94 gm 'l'riethanolamine l.2O gm
Perfume q.s (i l yce r in 8.00 gm
ll
Preservative q.s 69.94 gm
Water
[)erfume q.s.
Formule13 '/ q.s.
A Lanolin l'reservative
2.00 gm
I Cetyl alcohol
Stearicacid
0.50 gm
10.00gm Stearic acid
Formula 17 o/
20.0gm
Propyleneglycol 8.00 gm 1 . 4gm
l)otassiumhYdroxide
Potassiumhydroxide 0.40 gm
ll (i l ycer in 4.0 gm
Water 79.10gm 74.6gm
Water
Perfume q.s. q.s.
l)erfume
Preservative q.s. q.s.
l'reservative
Formula 14
A Stearic acid 12.0gm
Cetyl alcohol 0.5 gm
Sorbitol syrup 5.0 gm
Propylene glycol 3.0 gm
Triethanolamine 1.0 gm p*lrrure wltcn ths temperatureis about 35"C' Mill it'
B. Glycerin 0.3 gm
Fspnrl nl krn(l ream s
Water 78.2 gm
Perfume q.s.
Preservative q.s.

' Formula 15
A. Stearic acid 15.00gm
Potassium hydroxide 0.50 gm
Sodium hydroxide 0.18 gm rlc,, rl,,eqlrtrlpin retentionof powder. '
Cetyl alcohol 0.50 gm
Propylene glycol 3.00 gm
B. Glycerin 5.00 gm
Water 75.82gn
Perfume q.s. ) lteam scan be of t wo t ypes-
l l re l rrrtrrrl :rlitcr
Preservative q.s | | 1 I'rlirrtcntedcreamswhich are coloured
Formula 16 I '1 t lrrpigmentedcreams
A. Stearic acid 20.00gm l*Frrsrill ;lrocedure of manufacturing : Heat ingredients of oil
Cetyl alcohol 0.50 gm phase separatelyto 75oC and mix the latter to the
l,lia-e ,rrr,l,,,1,,.t.,u,
the
ii,r+*r',rl,,r*'lv with continuousstirring. Cool while stirring' Add
72 A HANDBOOK OF COSMTrrr i It
th! ri l i l N C ]R E A M S
perfumewhen the temperatureis about 35oc. preservative
shoultlr,r q.s.
addedto waterbeforemixing with oil phase.Finally Perfume
a milling will 1,,,u q.s.
a good product. Preservative
Formuls 22
Formule 18
A. Lanolin
<
A. Lanolin 1.00gm
2.00 gm 10.00gm
Cetyl alcohol Mineral oil
0.50gm 2.50 gm
Stearicacid " Stearic acid
10.00gm 3.00 gm
Potassiumhydroxide Glyceryl monostearate
0.40 gm
ll. Glycerin 5.00 gm
B. Propyleneglycol
8.00 gm 0.50 gm
Water Triethanolamine
79.10gm 78.00gm
Perfume Water
q.s. q.s.
Preservative Perfrtme
q.s. q.s.
Preservative
For m u l a 1 9
A. Liquid paraffin t0undrtlon Make-uP
1.00gm to hold the powder
Cetyl alcohol Ar loundation cream is used as a base make-up
L00 gm process' The idea of
Lanolin (anhydrous) *lrle trp above it, the total make-up is a two-step
2.00 gm processand the.trou-
Glyceryl monostearate make-up came to overcomethis two-step
lirrrrrrlrrriolr
18.00gm forms, particularly-liquid,
Triethanolamine hls rvrrlt il. Foundation make-up in various
1.58gm in some countries it has replacedthe founda-
B. Water heqlrr'r'(lrncso popular that
76.00gm The reason being the liquid
Sorbitol ltrr (tcurils and loose powder altogether'
2.00 gm than powder and a smooth
Perfume firrrrr,lrrlittnmake-up is much easier to apply
q.s. can be obtained. Though the presence of surfactants may
Preservative Bplre-nnlnco
q.s. hair follicles and fissures of
rrtrrlc tlrc colours or pigments penetite the
it has some popularity'
Formula20 u1,i,t",,,,i,if not compllt"ly ,.-on"d, still
A. Spermaceti 5.00 gm Formula23
Glyceryl monostearate 20.00 gm 8.00 gm
A. Lanette wax
Colours 3.00 gm 8.00 gm
Stearic acid
B. Water 67.00gm Water 64.00gm
Glyceryl 5.00 gm ' lt. 10.00gm
Glycerin
Perfume q.s. 10.00gm
Powder base
Preservative q.s. q.s
Colour
Perfume q.s.
Formula2l q.s
A. Glyceryl monostearate Preservative
20.00gm colour and perfume with
Mineral oil 5.00 gm llrul c:omponentsof 'A' to 85o-90oC' Mix
Add 'B' i{t "\' and
Cetyl alcohol 2.00 gm llre lxrwder base, then dispersethis in the glycerin'
Isopropyllinoleate 1.50gm l ri l r l l rrtrotl ghlY.
B. Glycerin 8.00 gm formuh 24
Water Butyl stearate 1.00gm
71.00gm
Stearicacid 12.00gm
 ( lr I S K IN C R E A MS I)
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS

Sorbitanmonostearate 2.00gm orrc arrother. The common feature is that they are generally applied on
Polyxyethylenesorbitanmonostearate 1.00 gm tlrt' skin and left for several hours, say overnight, and all of them assist
Propyleneglycol 12.50gm Irr tlrc repair of skin which has been surface damaged by exposure to
2.00 gm vnlious elements or exposure to detergent solution or soap. 'They
Talcum 8.00 gm rrolrrally contain high quantity of oily and fatty materials together with
Titanium dioxide 2,00 gm r,rrrolliontssuch as lanolin or lanolin derivatives and are preparedeither
Iron oxide (red) 1.00gm sr oil-in-water or water-in-oil or as mixed emulsion systems. Skin acts
Water 58.00gm ns l barrier between the body and its environment maintaining a control-
Perfume q.s. It'rl rlynamic equilibrium. Various stressesimposed by the environmental
q.s. Irrt:lorscan cause changesor damage to the skin. The major function of
Take the first four substancesand heat it at about 70oC. Heat water llrcsc creams is to help to reverse these changes and maintain a normal
and sorbitolliquid to sametemperature lrcrltlry skin. They are easy to apply but not too easy to rub in. These
and makeemulsion. Add colour
and perfume with talcum and then mix with propvleneglycol ('rcilrns are also not to rub in. They are sticky and greasy due to
and
sorbitolliquid and mix with the emulsion,cooledat 35oC. Homogenize lrrcscnceof oil/wax but this charactercan be avoided by using materials
.,rrc:h as fatty acid esters,acetylatedglycerides and other oils which have
the whole preparationin an ointmentmill.
pood spreading properties. The objective of using such creams is to
Formula25 eovcr the skin with a well dispersed, and consequently thin residual
A. Stearicacid 15.0gm occlusivefilm which is not greasyor sticky. When this film is allowed
Span60 2.5 gm kr rcrnain,the loss of moisture is slowed down comparatively.
Isopropylpalmitate 2.0 gm As normally these creams are applied at night time, the time nor-
B. Tween60 1.50gm rrurlly assigned-toskin preservationand feeding, they are called night
Propyleneglycol ('rcarns. But they can also be used in clay time as a base for applying
10.00gm
Water 54.00gm lrrcc powders. These preparationsare also used to supplementhormones
Dry powders(titaniumdioxide, ol vitamins to the skin and they may be termed as hormone creams or
talc, inorganicpigments) 15.00gm v itarnin creams respectively.
Perfume q.s. Composition Emoliient and moisturizing substancesare one impor-
Preservative q.s. lilnt component of these creams. To rectiff the dryness and maintain the
Mix the pigment and talc to dispersethe colour properly. Heat llcxibility of the skin emollients are used. Emollient action can be
componentsof 'A' to 85oc and componentsof 'B' to 90"c in separate uchievedby two mechanisms.
containers.Add 'B' to 'A' with continuousstirring. cool slowly with
(l) Prevention of water loss from the skin and thus building up of
stirring. Add perfume when the temperaturecomes down to 35"C.
water content from within.
Preservativeshould be addedin water of components.B' beforecream
is made. (2) Supplementing the water content of the skin by attracting the
water from the atmosphereby means of a humectant material.

(3) NIGHT AND MASSAGE CREAMS The mechanism of zrttracting water from the atmosphere and thus
rrraintainingthe water content of the skin is called moisturizing. All the
rnoisturizing creams thus contain a humectant.
Most common si6stances used as humectants are glycerol and other
polyhydric alcohols like ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and sorbitol.
Solutions of sodium lactate,glucose, fructose,glucosamine,deoxyribose,
 * rhtN ('RliAMS
+=fr 77
':.6 A HANDBooKoF cosMErICS
Ferlrrrile:iluruldbe added after cooling and milled through triple roller
and ribose also show healing, soothing and keratoplasticactivity on skin- nfl l

I I lrr rrsc of isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate is recom-

*tFillF'l ;r'. lltcy give additional body to the cream.

Formula26
skin. A Mineral oil 38.0 gm
Lanolin and its derivatives, stearic acid, wool wax alcohols, wool Petroleumjelly 8.0 gm
wax steroids, beeswax, artificial preen gland oil, vegetable oils like White beeswax 15.0gm
groundnut oil have found use in these creams. I)araffin wax 1.0 gm
l,anolin 2.0 gm
Various esters like isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, or
isoalcohols are also incorporated. ll. Borax" 1.0 gm
Water 35.0 gm
Vitamins or hormones are incorporated in these creams for nourish-
Perfume q.s.
ment to the skin and they can thus be termed as vitamin crealns or
Preservative q.s.
hormone creams. The vitamins which are used for this purpose are
Antioxidant q.s.
vitamin A, vitamin D, vitamin E or some water soluble vitamins. The
name vitamin F has been given to a mixture of unsaturated fatty acids, Formula27
including linoleic acid, linolenic acid and is arachidonic acid, and used A . Beeswax 8.0 gm
in creams for treatment of skin. They are normally used as alkyl esters Mineral oil 15.0gm
like isopropyl ester, etc. Lanolin oil 7.5 gm
Estrogen, progestin, pregnenolone and androgens are all claimed to Isopropyl palmitate 10.0gm
have sh&n limited restorative effects on aged skin. Though there is Acetylated glyceride 2.0 gm
fear that the hormones may be absorbed and can produce systemic side Lanolin 2.0 gm
effects but as the concentrations at which they are used in these creams 0.5 gm
It. Borax
are very low, so the chances of side effects are not there' A suitable Water 35.0gm
vehicle is required to dissolve hormone and for this purpose oil of q.s.
Perfume
persic, vegetable oils, benzyl benzoate, ethyl alcohol, propylene glycol q.s.
Preservative
may be used. q.s.
Antioxidant
Suitable perfume is incorporated according to the choice or accept-
lleul componentsof 'A' and 'B' separatelyto 75"C' Add 'B' to 'A'
ability. As these preparations are emulsions and contain good amount of perfume
elnwly with continuous stirring. Cool while stirring and add
watei, preservatives are also to be incorporated. Methyl parahydroxy Preservative should be added in
Wherrtlre temperatureis about 35oC.
benzoate in combination with propyl or butyl parahydroxy benzoate are
* E l E r l )l ul sc .
widely used for this PurPose.
If the preparations contain unsaturated esters or oils, antioxidant Formula28
should be incorporated to prevent rancidification' A. Groundnrlt oil 15.0gm
Mineral oil (light) 20.0 gm
General procedure of manufacturing As these preparations are 30.0 gm
PetroleumjellY
emulsion typi, they contain two categoriesof ingredients,oil and similar Lanolin 5.0 gm
substances and water and other water miscible ingredients. Both should Beeswax 5.0 gm
be taken separately and heated nearly to same temperature to get all in Borax 0.3 gm
liquid state. Mix the two with continuous stirring until cream is formed.
 tt tN ( t(t:A M S 79
78 A HANDBOOKOF COSMI ll, t i

B. Water Formula3l
243 gm
A lsopropyl linoleate 1.0 gm
Perfume q.s
Mi rre r aloil 31.0gm
Antioxidant q.s
lsopropyl palmitate 8.0 gm
Preservative q.s
l ,l rnolin 2.5 gm
Formula29 llccswax l l.0 gm
A. Vegetable oil 21.00gm Microcrystalline wax 5.0 gm
Isopropyl myristate 8.00 gm It l l oru 0.8 gm
Acetoglyceride S/C 7.50gm W ate r 40.7 gm
Acetoglyceride LIC 5.00 gm l'crfume q.s.
Oleyl alcohol 3.00gm Arrtioxidant q.s.
Lanolin 2.50gm I'tcservative q.s.
Isopropyl linoleate 2.00 gm
l l prrt ,otttponent sof 'A'and'B' separ at elyt o 75oC' and add 'B't o
Stearyl alcohol 1.50gm
I eh,rrlr,with continuousstirring. Cool while stirring,adding perfume
Stearic acid 1.00gm ghl ttl
I l 'r"('.
Lecithin 1.00gm
Beeswax 8.00gm HORMONE CREAMS
Borax 0.25 gm Formula32
B. Triethanolamine 0.50gm ;\ Acctylated lanolin 15.0gm
Water 38"75gm lsopropyl myristate 3.0 gm
Perfume q.s. Mineral oil (heavy) 4.0 gm
Preservative q.s Ilorrnone(in vehicle) 1.0 gm
Heat componentsof 'A' and 'B' separatelyat about 75"C. Mix 'lI llcoswax 7.0 gm
to 'A' with continuous stirring. Cool while stirring and add perfurrr, (' ctyl alcohol 3.0 gm
when cooled to 35"C. Stcarylalcohol 3.0 gm
lrruulsiffing agent (o/w tYPe) 15.0gm
VITAMIN CREAMS W atcr 49.0 gm
ll
Formula30 I' crl ir r ne q.s.
A. Mineral oil 40.0 gm Itrcscrvative q.s.
Beeswax yellow 15.0gm A rrl ioxidant q.s.
Lanolin 0.5 gm
lliqaillvr.rctlrrisiteamount of estrogenicsubstancein a suitable sol-
Isopropyl myristate 5.0 gm
rEfif arill rr,,t.il in 'A'. Heat componentsof 'A'and water separatelyat
Acetylated lanolin 0.5 gm rti | .,lrrrvlyirtld water to'A' with moderatebut continuousstirring.
Concentrated solution of vitamin A & D 1.0 gm
t rmliltr; ',trttitrp,while coqling and add perfume at 35oC'
B. Borax 1.0gm
Water 37.0gm FRUIT JUICE CREAMS
Perfume q.s. Formula33
Antioxidant q.s. oil 5.0 gm
A S rrrr llower
Preservative q.s. t i l yc : cr in 5.0 gm
 81
tt r bl l ri ( l tl rAM S
80 A FIANDBOoKoF coSMl rtt

Orange juice or grape fruit juice 24.0 gm

Emulsifuing agent (emulsene) 16"0 gm
B. Water 50.0 gm
Perfume (orange oil) q.s.
are expectedto be:
Preservative q's. llrF |'riilil lirnctions of hand and body creams
water loss fiom the surface
Heat components of 'A' at 75"C, except juice. Heat water r'vrtl' { | ) l{cplace water loss or reduce the
preservativeat sametemperatureseparatelyand add to'A'with Corlitrrr ol the skin.
ous stirring. Cool while stirring. Add juice and perfume whett llr, { ') l'rovide an oily film to protect the
skin'
temperature is at about 35oC.
( l) Kccp the skin soft, smooth but not greasy'
LANOLIN JUICE CREAMS t | ) lrlsY to aPPlY"
Formula34
Lanette wax 12.0 gm
Myristyl alcohol 5.0 gm
Giycerin 6.0 gm
Lemon juice 20.0 gm
Water 57.0gm
Oil of lemon q.s. l | rl er hl t
used in these prepara-
Preservative q.s. Vdrl,ril',tttittcrials,in variable proportions'are
Heat lanette wax and myristyl alcohol and mix together at 15"( lfuiit== lrr,,ltlirirl different functions'
Heat water with preservative at same temperature but separately. A'l'l
water to first mixture with continuous stirring. Stir in the lemon jtrr,,
and glycerin after emulsion is formed. Finally add lemon oil wlr' "
temperature is about 35"C.

(4) HAND AND BODY CREAMS

Softness of the skin is very important and also wanted. Sebunr. '
substancewhich is secretedfrom the skin, acts as a natural lubricant arr,l
keeps the skin soft and conditioned. The film produced by secrctt''l
sebum also helps to keep the skin wet by preventing the evaporation "l
moisture. The repeatedor constant contact with soap and detergentdot
the damage or causesremoval of the film sebum.
Frequent removal of this sebum makes the skin dry, scaly and lc" '
protective against bacterial infection and can, ultimately, lead to dernrrr
titis. Some natural moisturizing agents are also secreted by the skirr
controlled use of soap or detergent does not make the skin much drr
and scaly, but frequent and prolonged use of soaps or detergents,dryirrl'
winds and indoor atmospheresmake the skin much dry and scaly' A
protection is required to maintain the skin in normal condition. Fl * rr
 82 oF cosMtirr( ,
A HANDBOoK ;!l tr i I l l l AM S
83
E !

Incorporation of alkyl fatty acid esters helps to prevent drag rrr,,r gives an extra edgeto
f'er,lrrrl'p,!ttl'oolour is a fascinatingthing' It
colours
excessiveoiliness. The alkyl fatty acid estersmake the oil phase 1,.,,
ft ;,r,,,lrrrl'. lr()ltrconsumeracceptancepoint.of view' Though
viscous and so enablethe skin to be coveredwith a thinner oil film ri,.,,, for hand and body
== r,,t r,,,1 rrr ltand creams but can be selected
would otherwise be possible. are red' blue,
:=4,,,: \',il r()Uscolours which are consideredacceptable
Sometimes a healing ingredient, like allantoin, urea, uric acicr, r = !r,, " r t r' (' n i n di ffere ntshades.
incorporated in hand and body creams to enhance granulation of rlr,. can be of various natures-
I lr.'., prr'gt:ttlrtions
skin. A bacteriocideis incorporatedto prevent bacterialinfection ofrlr,
tl t I t,lttitl crelms: Consistencyis of liquid nature'
skin.
r 'r ,\i,,lrtlcrenms : Consistencyis higher'
In modern type of creams,alkyl estersof polyunsaturatedC1g fatrr
r t1 Nrtrr'ttqtteous type: Not containingany aqueousmedia'
acids, linoleic acid and linolenic acid are addedto preventscaling of rl,,
are also
skin surface. l:plr'ntl proccdure for manufacturing As these creams
and aqueous phase' they are prepared
As these preparations are mainly oil-in-water type emulsions, ()rl tr 1,,'contzriningoil phase
:;::,rr=i,,il
temp-erature
evaporation these leave the skin feeling relatively non-oily and n,rr :. ',,.trir|, ,rr lrcating both the phasesseparatelyto same
till cream is formed' Perfume is
sticky. creams or lotions based on natural or synthetic film formers ar. i ,rri',n1'rvillt continuousstiriing
-==.
milling is done for a good
not popular because on evaporation of water the preparations beconr,. ..tfe*l rll, r ,ooliltg the product' Finally
sticky due to increase in concentration of gum. However. this can lrt. .'==l i l tF

prevented by presenceof humectant.

LIQUID CREAMS
Since these creams and lotions contain water and materials that art.
Fo r m u l a 3 5
highly prone to decompositionby rnicrobialcontamination,they must bt. 4.0 gm
t l';opropyl mYristate
protected against such contamination and thus addition of preservativcs 2.0 gm
Mirrcral oil
is a must. The selectionof preservativesshould be such thai thev shoukl
S t t 'r r r i ca c i d 3.0 gm
I r r r r r l s i l y i n gw a x 0.275gm
| ;rrtolin 2.5 gm

il { ilyccrin 3.0 gm
I r ie thanolamine 1.0 gm
aqueous phase rvhereaspropyl ester is dissolved in oil phase. Butyi Wr t t c t - 84.225gm
ester may be used in place of propyl ester in same concentration. I 't 'r l i t l n e q.s.
I 'rt 's c r v a t i v e q"s.
choice of a perfume for use in hand and body creams is basedsoleiy
on aesthetic value. Proper perfume increasesacceptanceof the product. Formula 36
But perfurne should not be excessiveor too strong. perfumes should bc t ilyccrol monostearate 2.7 gm
t
compatible with other ingredients and stabilize the preparations. per- 1.5 gm
t 'r 't y l a l c o ho l
fumes from different sourcescan be selected. 1.5 gm
: l i l i c o r r r :o i l
(l) Synthetic aromatics like phenylethyl alcohols, geranoil, pine, l ; r r r o l i r to i l 2.0 gm
hydroxycitronellal,amyl cinnamic aldehyde. \ 1 r : r r rt l 0 0.5 gm
(2) Essential oils like geranium bourbon, rose de mai absolute. I rvt:ctt (r0 2.5 gm
lavender. ll l-,othitol solution (70%o) 10"0gm
(3) Compounded perfume oils of a liliac type, light floral type are W: t l t 't - 19.3 gm
also used.
 84 A H A N D B OOK OF C OS MIIIII '
F.f i b h t N ( l {l i A M S
Perfume q.s. 12.0 gm
Alcohol
Preservative q.s. 73.5 gm
Water
Heat componentsof 'A' and 'B' separately. Mix 'B' to .A' wrtl, l)erfume q.s.
continuous stirring. cool while stirring. Add preservative with stirrrrrl, l)reservative(onlY methYl
when cooled to 35oC. parahydroxy benzoate) q.s.
Mix
SOLID CREAMS l rlliolvc preservative in glycerin with gentle heat if required'
glycerin and perfume'
lhe trngnt'itttit, *itlt the alcohol and add the
Formula 37 add the solution slowly, part by
tllae,rlvt. lltc boric acid in water and
A. Stearicacid 15.0gm paste, with gentle stirring'
Isopropylmyristate 2.0 gm ir*l tl tlrc lragacanth
Potassiumhydroxide 1.0gm Formula40
B. Sorbitolsolution(70%) 18.3grn 'l'ragacanth 2.0 gm
Water 63.7 gm Glycerin 10.0gm
Perfume q.s. 'l'itanium dioxide 0.2 gm
Preservative q.s. Water 87.8gm
l)erfume q.s.
Melt stearic acid and isopropyl myristate and potassium hydroxirl,.
Clolour q.s.
with stirring. Keep it at 75"C. Heat components of .B' at sarrrt.
l)reservative q.s.
temperature and mix with 'A' with continuous stirring. Add perfurnt.
when cooled to 35oC.

Formula 38
A. Cetyl oleyl ethoxylate 9.0 gm
Polyethyleneglycol 400 monostearate 14.0 gm
Mineral oil 12.0gm
Siliconeoil 1.0 gm NON-AQUEOUSTYPE
Paraffin wax 8.0 gm For m ula4l
Petroleumjelly 4.0 gm 26.0 gm
l)araffin wax
Isopropylmyristate 8.0 gm 74.0 gm
l'ctroleumjellY
B. Water 46.0 gm I)erfume q.s.
Perfume q.s.
Preservative q.s Formula42
l,anolin 9.0 gm
Heat components of A andwaterseparately at75"C. Add waterto A
(lcresin wax 18.0gm
with continuousstirring. Cool with stirringaddingperfumeat 35"C.
Amber resin 4.5 gm
l)araffin wax 18.5gm
JELLIES 50.0gm
l'ctroleumjellY
Formula39 l'crfume q.s.
Tragacanth 1.0 gm point'
Boric acid 1.5 gm lrlell rrrtd rnix the material in increasing order of melting
mass at about
Glycerin 12.0gm Ferllrlre:,lrottld be added last after cooling the mixed
t i "l
 86 A H A N D B OOK OF C OS MTJII( .
( lUiAMS 8',7
Fh i -ihil,r
non-aqueoustype preparationsalso, sometime,chlorophyll,
_In tnir:,rr
mallow leaves, essential oils, turpentine oil, eucalyptus rri|er trlrr..,iuc also used as can be seen from the following formulae-
oil, etc. can rr,.
added.
Formula43
Wool alcohols 6.0 gm
(s) ALL_PURPOSE CREAMS Ilard parafhn 24.0 gm
In recent times there has been a tremendous increasein White soft paraffin 10.0gm
the consunrlr
tion of preparations which are normally known as l.iquid parafhn 60.0 gm
al-purpose crear),,
These were also known as ,sports cream' as they l'crfume q.s
*"r" ,r.d by sport,
men in skii'g and outdoor activities. They are Antioxidant q.s
somewhat oilv brrr
non-greasy type and can spread easily on the skin to give trl,lr rlrt. irbove ingredientstogether and stir until cold. Add perfume
a protectiv,.
film. They can also function, when applied excessively, sher ,,rr,lr'rlro 35"C with stirring' An equal amount of water can be
as a skinfood ,,,
nourishing cream' or night cream or protective cream rdJr,l tr, llrrs baseto form the cream known as hydrous ointment'
for prevention .r
alleviation of sunburn, or for the treatment of roughenei
skin area,
Also, when applied sparingly, they function as hand Formula 44
creams or founda.
tion creams. Thus they are called as all_purposecreams. A Wool alcohols 2.5 gm
So, the composition of these creams is such that it can Microcrystallinewax (m.p. 140'-145"F) 6.0 gm
act-- Mi ner al oil 21.0 gm
(a) As a foundation cream to provide a fbundation
base for makc. I'clroleumjellY 5.0 gm
up.
It ( i l yce r in 5.0 gm
(b) As a cleansingcream and liquefy easily.
Magnesium sulPhate 0.7 gm
(c) As a hand cream and should have emollient Water 59.8gm
character.
(d) As a protective cream and should form l'crfume q.s
a continuous non-occlu-
sive film. Mcthyl ParahYdroxYbenzoate q.s.
(e) As a cream to smooth the rough surface of the I'ropyl ParahYdroxYbenzoate q.s
skin. q.s
. llrrtylatedhYdroxYanisole
Composition t o 75'C' Add'B't o'A'
s 'A'and'B' separ at ely
l l l rl rorttl l otl entof
These preparationsare mainly based on woor arcohols, d itlr r rntllrotts stirring. Homogenize at about 45"C. Add perfumewith
which consisl
of the alcoholic fraction obtained by saponification +tifrirrp Atltl prcservative in water of 'B' before making cream'
of the grease of the
wool of sheep and contain not less than2gyo of cholesteror.
Its varue as
a water-in-oil emulsifier is due to the properly of
absorption of water. Formula45
But this character can be lost due to oxidation and thus ,,\ I lartolite 3.75 gm
an antioxidant,
like hydroxyanisole, is to be used. If oxidation occurs ('ctyl alcohol 0.75 gm
_butylated water
can be lost from the base and can seep out. As these preparations Microcrystalline wax 7.60 gm
need
to spread easily, microcrystalline wax can be used. l,iquid paraffin 19.70gm
Minerat oils, para-
ffin are used to get protective layer. Magnesium ( i l ycer in 2.60 gm
sulphate is used to It
enhancethe stability of the creams by the p."r"n"" Magnesium sulPhate 0.70 gm
of magnesium ions in
aqueous phase. Methyl and propyl parahydroxy benzoates W l ter 64.90 gm
can be used
as preservatives to prevent microbial groMh. Suitable l )crfu m e q.s
perfumes are
also to be added. The preparations are normally I'rcservative q.s
water-in-oil but the
A rrtioxidant q.s.
t
 88 A TIANDBOOKOF COSME'I'I('T
CREAMS 89
Heat and melt componentsof 'A' at75oc and also heatcomponerrrr
of 'B' to sametemperature.Mix 'B' with 'A' with constantitirring
Homogenizeand cool to 40oc and add perfumewith stirring. The ab.ve 6ote productsare usedwidely and for variouspartsof the body,
is an exarnpleof, o/w generalpurposecream. cvaluationand quality controlis essential.
ftom generaltestslike quantitativeand qualitativedetermina-
Formula46
Injrodlents,someothertestsare important.
A. Stearicacid 15.0gm
Lanolin 2.0 gm lhrology : Rheology is very important as these creams are
Beeswax ln tubes or containers. The rheology or viscosity should
2.0 gm
Mineral oil 24.0 gm nonttont. As these productsare normally non-newtonianin
Myrj 52 5.0 gm frc vlscositycan be measuredusing viscometersusedfor such
B. Sorbitalsolution 10.0gm
Water 42.0 gm funrltlvity : As various types of ingredientsare used with
Perfume q.s ft urc of antiseptics,hormones,etc., there is a possibility of
Preservative or photose-nsitization of the skin. This should be tested
q.s
'Ihis test is normallydoneby patchtest on skin and can be
Antioxidant q.s
or occlusive. The test sample is applied alongwith a
Heat and mix components of 'A' at above75.c. Add preservative
trr
water and sorbital solution and heat to 75oc. Mix 'B' to .A' witlr mtrkct productat different placesand effect is comparedafter a
continuousstining. Cool and add perfumewhile stining. tf tlmc.
tlologlcal testing : This is particularlyessential fof products
Formula47 lntiseptics,hormones,vitamins,etc.
A. Wool alcohol 1.0gm
Cholesterol 1.5gm
Petroleumjelly J.5 gm
Paraffin wax 5.0 gm
Mineral oil 20.0 gm
Sorbitansesquioleate 1.0 gm
B. Glycerin 5.0 gm
Magnesiumsulphate 0.5 gm
Water 58.5 gm
Perfume q.s
Preservative q.s.
Antioxidant q.s
Heat componentsof 'A' and 'B' independently to 75oC. Add ,B, kr
'A' slowly with continuousstirring. when temperpturehas comedown
to 45"c passthrough homogenizer.continue stirring to cool to 35o(,
and add perfume. Preservative shouldbe addedin wa-terof ,B'.
 IGG r r l l t',r l t l r l r N I'R EPAR ATI O N S 9l

and
=il aflr, r.,l tt:lls is responsiblefor the dilation of blood vessels
=; rlerl,r iitrrrrrrlation of the basal cells of the skin for proliferation can
=!..,,,., ,rr lr is also known that excessivesolar radiation not only leads
:. j ,li:.qil,.rtrOil [o cancgrbUt tO Skin CanceritSelf. EXCeSSiVe radiatiOn
CHAPTER-6
t' .!;,trrr1, vi rami n D pr esentin skin f at and pr oducessom e t oxic
:!=r{,iJ.. ,rlrrrlr irr the long run causethe connectivetissueof the corium
SunscreenPreparations !.. rleErrrr.r,rtt.r,vlrichis manifestedin a coarseningof the skin relief and
F.rl rati rrr ,,1 rvr i ttkl gs.

tr,rrrrr1,tlrr. latent period preceding the appearanceof effects of

of
Sunlight reaching the surface of the earth contains visible r{s (rrrrl r::rF'lrr. t,lr.locltemicaldegraclationproducts formed by the effect
wavelength between 400 mp-740 mp), rays with shorter wavclr.rrlrr, :*l*r irr,r,lr,rti()ilare believed to trigger off a series of free radical
(280 mp-400 mp) called ultraviolet, and rays with longer wavelt.rrl,rt, iEr ti'rr l,,rilrrrl',to the formation of the biologically active substances
(750 mp- 5300 mp) called infrared. Ultraviolet rays, particularly r,,rt, =lri,t, rrltrrrr,rlt.lydiffuse into tire dermal blood vesselsand produce the
wavelength below 320 mtrt,are responsible for most of the therapeutr, , :1rilrl=rrrlrt'r:;t'syrnptomsmentionedabove.
well as noxious effects that we attribute to sunlight. The ovcr,,ti
ll,- | rr,r$'lt'tlgc of long-termhazardsof sun-rayshas led to manufac-
beneficial effects as well as harmful effects of sun rays on the hrrrrr,,,
r=rirrp,rl ,r \,r'r:rloosllleticpreparationsto protectthe skin from sun rays'
body depend on the length and frequency of exposure, intensity ot rl,,
| ,.=rrr.lrr1,r,'Prtt;ttions should protect the skin as effectively as possible
sunlight and sensitivity of the individual concerned. Lower the n;i',
E;,fi, rlrr rr(,\r()useffects of radiation without reducing the beneficial
length, more the energy of the rays.
= ti .,ri l ,r,rtt.tl i ()n agai n stult r avioletr ays is also occasionallyr equir ed
These rays stimulateblood circulation in the derma,causethe clcr,I =i:iiu,l,r,trr p;rrlicttlarly clrugindustry' mountaineering,and armed forces'
opment of vitamin D from provitamins, through the activatiorr ,,r i t+c I rr,,rrl,'rlp,,-: ttf this effect has led to suggestion to incorporate
7-dehydrocholesterol,contained in skin fat. Sunshine increasesrl,, r.!ri:,r. r,,, rr rttllke-up bases, face porvders' creams and after shave
formation of haemoglobin and may also promote a decreasein frr,,,,,i i.,riilr,= | rlilryclroxybenzophenone in alcohol and silicone oil afford
pressure. These rays are also supposedto shift the redox potential ol rrr, =+.pilfIt |lrillt.ttion for people highly photosensitive"Presentlyseveral
epidermal tissue towards more intensive reduction, which, in turrr I = :rrret.ir, r,ntP:tttics have launchedcold or vanishing creamsor lotions
believed to lead to an activation of various vitamins, hormones",r,,1 ,..r ,1 r i r r i l r l ' l l l l " ( 'l ( 'C n agen t s .
enzymes and a favourable effect on the visceral nervous system. srrn
rt-r, l,r, l):rtirtionsare used to achieve suntan faSter to inCreaSemore
rays have been used in the treatment of tuberculosis of some glar,l
a .t.'l :!l l "l l
bones and skins and also in the treatmentof skin psoriasis. Sunligrir,
also known to exert a beneficial influence on the autonomous nerv(,rl Fl,tettlr, M t t 'h a n i s m of th e Ski n
system and reduce the susceptibility to infections. Moderate exposur(,r,, il4i,il l\\'(l lactors are responsible for natural protection of skin
sunshine produces better psychological feelings, sense of fitness rr,,l
*l4i,r=l
peace of mind. Sun rays cause thickening of the skin by producr,,1, 'rillrtllll
(l I llriekncssof the stratumcon"leuln
melanin which increasesthe body's naturalprotectivemechanismagairr,r r ' I I' rrrnr:ti tation
of t he skin
sunburns.
i' li., 1,,r'rr rt:l)oltedthal thickening of the stratum corneum occurs
On the other hand solar irradiation is damagingin case of excessrr, i: r il, r r r,l solar irracliationby increasingrnitotic rate nf epidermal
exposure. It can have short term and long term adverseeffects. It ni:rr rlrrr',rrrrkingit mnre itnperviousr of erythemogt-nic
to the passag'e
-,,,,==i,,,',
cause sunburn with symptoms of mild irritation to serious inflammarr,,r,
from a slight erythema to blistering on skin. There can be shiverii,r,
| !, | , rrr rrrcl;rninCcntent of the epiCler"lr,iS alst' iilCreaseSthe
fever and nausea, and sometimes pruritus. Releaseof histamine by tlr, of
caLI ges Cessf q; nr 3: 11in
. ,' t," \\' ' r ' rl !l .c Skl, - 1.t i\ l r aeliat i, Dn ef

90

I ',
92 A HANDBOOK OF COSNII '
melanin which migrates upward towards stratum corneum and llr( 1"
surface and thus increases the resistance. Suntan prep?rotions "r't
facilitate this excess formation of melanin.
Principle of Effectiveness of Sunscreens
r'1rl
It is a fact that the exposureof unprotectedskin to sunlight 1111
produces the desired therapeuticeffect but also results in sunbttrtt ,,''
ihe subsequentpeeling off of the comeal layer is a cosmetic problerl I'
principle, this problem can be treated in different ways.
(l) A protective layer can be provided to the skin that prevcrrl, rl''
UV-rays to reach the skin either by absorbing or by reflecting llr' ,"
Some of the materials used in powders do actually reflect a c('rl''"
amount of UV-rays and are thus incorporated in suntan ptporlrlr,rr';
Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide both have such property but the lirrrr,"
is better than the laffer. Preparationsreflecting UV-rays zlrevery t'll"
tive and used widely. However, these preparationshave the disadvrrrrr',;.
of eliminating the beneficial rays along with the harmful ones.
(2) To incorporate substancesin preparations to filter the sttrrr.,'-
by absorbing medium range UV-rays (280 mp-320 mp) but allon rr,g
; rays of higher wave lengths to pass. All modern suntan preparatiorr',.r'*
based on this principle arrd contain such substances.
ti (3) Biologically effective substancescan be used effectively 1o 1".
vent symptoms of inflammation without reduction of tanning. As alt, ',1'
mentionedearlierthat damageof the cells by sunbum liberateshislittrr,',.
in the tissues, attempts have been made to treat it with antihistarrrr,"'
substancesto avoid inflammation. Because of their ?flti-inflamnt;rl,'rr
action, hydrocarbons and fluorocarbons may be useful in treating .rr',
burn but they are not recommended in suntan preparations.
(4) Substancesthat cause or acceleratetanning of the skin crtrrt''
applied. Dioxyacetone causestanning by forming a brown complex * 'rl'
the keratin of the corneal layer. 8-methoxypsoralene when lrrl,."
10-20 rng internally 2 hours before exposure to the sun, accelct;tt,,
tannins and avoids sunbum.
SUNBURN PREPARATIONS
Cosrneticsunbum anctrsuntanpreparationsmay be classifiecl','r,
three groups:
(1) Sunscreeri preparations
(2) Palliativespreparations
(3) Sinrulativepreparations
I II ',I INS('REEN PREPARATIONS 93
ll ; \urrscreen Preparations
I lrr':;t:are the most important group of preparations. Sunscreens
=lr,,lhl t.itlrer scatterthe incident light effectively, or they should absorb
rly t.rytlrctlal portion of the sun's radiant energy. Various factors other
tlrrrrrllrt. tluration of exposureare also to be taken into account' For
Flryul'lc, background is important. Snow has a better effect on the
Irrrlrvrtlrr;rlas it reflects a higher proportion of ultraviolet radiationthan
( )paque powder materials, either used in dry state or in a vehicle,
-r1r{l
,rrll ',t'rvcto scatterthe ultravioletlight falling upon them' Of them zinc
,rrrrlt. i:j rnost effective and superior to titanium dioxide. Other less
r.llr'rtivt: substancesare kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium oxide,
trrlr t.tr Particle size of these substancesin these preparationsis also an
l ri l l )')tl i i l l l factor.
llrc iclcal sunscreenagent should have the following characters-
( | ) Absorb light preferentialiy over the range of 280 mp-320 mp'
{.') l}e stableto heat, light and perspiration'
( l) lle non-toxic and non-irritant.
('l) Not be rapidly absorbed.
t" ) l l c neutral .
trr) lle readily soluble in suitablevehicles.
;rtlll\(
llrcro are numerous substances which are suitable for use as
l L'CIlSi
( | ) l)ara-aminobenzoicacid, its derivatives and glyceryl esters,like
.
cthylpara amino benzoale,glyceryl para-amino benzoate,etc'
( ') Salicylates,like amyl salicylate, phenyl salicylate, benzyl, men-
thyl, glyceryl, etc.
(l) (linnamic acid derivatives, like benzyl cinnamate, menthyl
cinnamate,etc.
t,l) l)ihydroxy cinnamic acid derivatives
tr) 'frihydroxy cinnamic acid derivatives
((r) Certain hydrocarbons
( /) l)ibenzalacetoneand benzalacetophenone
(x) l)ihydroxy-napthoic acid and its salts
(')) Coumarin derivatives
t lo) I)iazolesand triazoles
t I l) Quinine salts
t | -l) Quinine derivatives
 94 A HANDBOOK OF COSMI ilr
r &ts ,:ril,,r t(titrNPREPARATIoNS 95
(13) Uric and violuric acids
i:'. fri,'l'\ l1r;rlrrrilate.Some effective protection from sunbum is also
(14) Tannic acid derivatives
yi,,.i,lr,l I'y white or yellow petroleum jelly and lanolin. All these
(15) Hydroquinoneetc.
FrE F4i ' rrr' ,| | ,;conta' n som e per f um e and pr eser vat ive,if r equir ed.
l some other compounds also have been reported to be effective :;r,,, | il r a=i'il;rllVcoloursare also used.
i screens. They are hydrazines of ortho- or para-aminobenzaldehyde,rrr,,i llrr' 1r1,111111'1can be simple oil type, creamtype, lotion type, aqueous
I of ortho- and para-aminoacetophenones. Also acetylated ami.,, * * l rri i ul tl pt' , gel typ e.
cinnarnates, a reaction product of carbethoxyethyr-triethoxysilaneu,irr,
p-aminobenzoic acid, have been reported to be useful as sunscreen. lrlsa rrl I'r.ocedurefor Manufacturing
/ As all the above substancesare of low molecular weight, they rrr, llr,-',, prt:lrarationscan be aqueous or oily solutions, creams or
quickly removed from the skin with water, necessitatingrepeatedapPrr hrtion and gel type, the generalmethod will be different.
Erinrl.!i',r.
I
j
cation. This led to the developmentof water-insolublebut alkali-solrrlrl,
polymeric sunscreens.Thesepolymers are producedby reactingat lcrr,,r
Fr,r111111111
types, aqueousor oily, can be preparedsimply by mixing
lrc,ltr',,lvirrg the sunscreenand other ingredientsin the vehicle, i.e.,
two essentialco-monomers. +dlFr,,r ,'rl, l)crfumeshould be added all of last.
(l) An ethylenically unsaturatedcompound, capable of absorbirrl, I rFirnr l)rcparationsare emulsion type and are prepared by taking
ult r av i o l e t ra d i a ti o n . l i k e c e rta i n substi tuted acryl art.,, irrgrerlrr=rrtrol'oil phase and aqueous phase separatelyand heating to
methacrylates,benzoates,ethers of 2,4-dihy droxybenzopheno rr,. lirlrrll ,rr tlissolveall ingredientsand then mixing them together with
2,2,4-Irihydroxybenzophenone, and ethers of benzotriaz,t, stirring till the cream is produced. Perfumeshould be added
',irttrr,'u,,
derivatives. 1flsl , rr'lrrr11the cream to near room temperatureand milling further.
ll (2) An acidic co-monomer, an ethylenically unsaturatedcarboxrrr, lrrrr,rr., can be solutions or emulsion type and can be prepared
acid containingat leastone free carboxyl group like acrylic aci,l **rrr1111t';t (iels are highly viscous aqueouspreparations.Thickening
methacorylicacid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, etc. rgent rr rlispcrsed in water separately. Other ingredients are mixed
These polyrneric sunscreens have been found to be resistftfll r. irrperlrrriul(l dissolvedin water. Then the dispersionof thickening agent
removal by fresh or sea-water. But they can be removed easily b1, ., ie rri.ll n,itlr otherswith stirring to preparegel.
slightly alkaline solution like soap-waterrvhich conveftswater-insolulrl, '.,rrrrr'rrsclirlformulaeare mentionedbelow:
polymer to water-solublealkaline salts due to presenceof free carboxr
lic acid group. OIL TYPE
Different sunscreen agents are used in different concentratr.rr Formula I
accordingto their effectiveness.Sorneare used in higher eoucentrailorr I lomomenthyl salicylate 8.0 gm
6-BYoand others at low concentrations like 2vo. Mineral oil 92.0 gm
l)erfume q.s.
suitabie base can be used to make a final product of an aqueous,,,
aicoholic lotion, a fa@ cream, oil, or an emulsion" 'rhe vehicle ;rr,r
For m ula2
selection ol- other cornponentsof the procluct may contribute to r I lornomenthyl salicylate 8.0 gm
eff-ecfiveness. certain natural oils such as coconut oii, peanut , ,,r Mineral oil 80.0 gm
muster-seedciil and olive oil have a fairly high absorptionabilit_r,ol'i 12.0 gm
Isopropyl myristate
iight, bur mineral oil cloesnot ha'e such property. An antioxidant * l'crfume q.s.
be irrcorp,:ratedif a naturai oii is used to ;rreventranciditv,
lrffecti""ehasc:g;:a.n
be preparedLr1,using lnixturesof natura!oils ,r Formula 3
;nineraj oils. or by.' blending these with fatty acid Bljferrisu/,1, lsopropylmyristate 90.0 gm
Antiviray 10.0gm

L**=:,.
 I h F ;!IIIII.t I( IIl N PI{EPARA TI O N S 97
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
Mcl hyl parahydroxy benzoate q.s.
Perfume q.s I'ropyl parahydroxybenzoate q.s'
Colour q.s rllr lol,r.tlrct.the ingredientsof 'A' and heat at about 70"c. In a
Preservative q.s :=t'4fdt.v,",'.cldissolvethe preservativesin the glycerin with the aid of
Isopropyl myristate may be replaced by isopropyl palmitate. Prepa- i:itle hF:rl Arltl the remaining ingredientsof 'B' and heat it to about
jl I A,Ll rnixture of 'B' to 'A', slowly with continuousstirring. Stir
ration is simply. by solution technique. Mix the perfume, colour,
preservative with isopropyl myristate and sunscreenagent with oil and .ri rti lr rr' 1.,r,Ll i rtgthe per f um eat about 30oC.
mix both together.
LOTION TYPE
CREAM TYPE Formula7
Formula4 A lsopropyl mYristate 2.0 gm
A. Homomenthyl salicylate 8.0 gm Antiviray 10.0gm
Non-ionic emulsifier (tween) 7.5 gm l'oilct spirit 88.0gm
Mineral oil 2.0 gm I' crl ume q.s.
Spermaceti 5.0 gm ('ol our (alcohol-soluble) q.s.
B. Glycerin 5.00 gm I tr,,u,,lvcrtttttvtray in isopropyl myristate. Dissolveperfume and
Water 72.50gm .rrl um l rt ^.pi ri t. Mi x b ot h.
Perfume q.s.
q.s. For m ula8
Methyl parahydroxy benzoate
q.s. A l ri l trosolA 1000 5.0 gm
Propyl parahydroxy benzoate
Mineral oil 10.0gm
Formula5 Stearicacid 2.0 gm
A. Antiviray 8.0 gm I'araffin wax 1.0 gm
Stearic acid 1.7 gm lleeswax 2.0 gm
Isopropyl myristate 6.0 gm l'ctroleumjelly 5.0 gm
Abracol PGS (emulsifuing agent) 3.5 gm S i l i conefluid 8.0 gm
l'olyethylene glycol monostearate 5.0 gm
B. Triethanolamine 0.8 gm
Water 80.0 gm ll l'riethanolamine 2.0 gm
Perfume q.s. Water 60.0 gm
Preservative q.s. I)erfume q.s.
Colour q.s. l)reservative q.s.
llflrt rrrp,.r'cdientsof 'A' to a temperature of about 70"C' Heat
Formula6 ol''B' to Sametemperatureand add slowly to the mixture of
iirgrr,lrr.rrt:;
A . Antiviray 5.0 gm
{ ',lrr rrrrtilcool. Add perfume when the temperaturecomes down to
Tween 7.5 gm
cE rttl Ii "( .
Cetyl alcohol 1.0 gm
Isopropyl myristate 15.0gm AQUEOUS SOLUTION TYPE
Mineral oil 17.0gm
Formula9
B. Glycerin 1.0 gm l;iltrosol B 7.0 gm
Water 54.5 gm Methyl cellulose 0.5 gm
Perfume q.s.

t-i
 99
98 A TIANDBOOKOF COSMEI'I(: r h l, STJNSCREEN PREPARATIONS

Glycerin 2.0 gm I'rrlliative preparations are either aqueous solutions or oil-in-water

Ethyl alcohol 10.0gm errrrrlsionsand should be able to produce both protective and cooling
Water 80.5 gm *llct:[ to relieve the sunburn. These preparationsshould not be greasy or
Perfume q.s illy bccausethey will retard the antiseptic effect as the antisepticswill
Dissolve filtrosol 'B' in ethyl alcohol and methyl cellulose in watcr ,,,,1l,.r irble to mix with secretionsto prevent bacterial growth'
and glycerin mixture. Mix the two parts. Methyl cellulose is added t,, I hcse sunburn correctives are generally familiar as calamine or
increasethe viscosity.

Formula l0
FiltrosolB 5.0 gm
Distilled extractof witch hazel 10.0gm
Propyleneglycol 10.0gm
Water 75.0 gm
Perfume q.s.
Watersolubledye q.s.
Methyl parahydroxybenzoate q.s. qnr,,ilivcarea of skin.
Dissolve the preservative in propylene glycol and add the remaining
Formula 12
ingredients. Mix well.
Calamine 15.0gm
GEL TYPE Zinc oxide 5.0 gm
Camphor 1.0 gm
F o rmu l al l
Alcohol 10.0gm
Carboxy vinyl polymer 2.0 gm,
Glycerin 10.0gm
Propylene glycol 9.0 gm
Rose water 59.0 gm
l'riethanolamine 1.5 gm
Methyl parahydroxY benzoate q.s.
Filtrosol B 5.0 gm
Water 82.5 gm Mix the calamine and zinc oxide to a smooth paste with the glycertn.
Perfume q.s. ltilrv ildd suffcient amount of rose water to make a crearn. Dissolve the
Methyl parahydroxy benzoate q.s. ililil|)ltot. in the alcohol and mix the cream and add water to volume. To
Dissolve the sunscreenagent (filtrosol B) in a small portion of water. g"r ,, lilvourable shadewith calamine a small amount of fenic oxide may
Dissolve carboxy vinyl polymer in the triethanolamineand gradually add lrr irtltlod.
the main proportion of water. Eissolve the preservativein the propylene
Formula13
glycol and add to the earlier mixture. Then add the solution of sun 8'0 gm
Zinc oxide
screen agent. When the gel is uniform add the perfume. 8'0 gm
Preparedcalamine
(2) Palliative Preparations PolyethyleneglYcol400 7'0 gm
Polyethyleneglycol 400 monostearate3'0.gm
These preparations are used for the relief of initation and other
Lime water 60'0 gm
problems resulting from sunbum. As sunbum causes damage to skin
Water 14'0 gm
cells, in several cases it can be as serious as steam burn, there is always
Preservative q.s.
a possibility of secondary bacterial infection. So, all these preparations
should also be antiseptic. tv'lix the powder materialsthoroughly and add polyethyleneglycol
and add lime water to make a cream' with stining.
ltlil ilr()nostearate
 IOO A HANDBOoKoF COSIuETICS
ht rN 5('l (l i l l N P R E P AR A TION S
101
rb
Add further lime water and make volume with water. preservative can
the active
be dissolved in water. af alilr tirrrrrirrgled to try out such substances. Psoralens,
rrirEtlllr'nts isolated from ammimajus, an ancient Egyptian folk-medi-
pigmentation and thus tanning'
Formula 14 'iile lr,rvc bcon reported to enhance
has
Triethanolamine stearate 4.8 gm {ll,rrp',1 tlrt:scalkoxypsoralensand-particularly 8-methoxypsoralen
Liquid paraffin 10.0gm l,ee,r.,t,'tr:;ivcly studied and a tablet formulation, for oral administra-
of
Water 83.2 gm 11,11i ,rf l{ rrrcrhoxypsoralenhave been marketed in USA' Ingestion
pigmentation on exposure of
Zinc phenosulphonate 2.0 gm tlt !l lrt,ol this substanceled to increased
Mix triethanolamine stearate and liquid paraffin properly adding to rt i thi n 2 - 4 hour s.
rl i fi l rr ' ,rrrrl i gl w
water and heat it to 70"c with continuous trituration to achieve an can be obtained by
lhl Slnining preparations : An artificial suntan
emulsion. like
itintrl, tlt., skin with some chemical substances' Chemicals
juglone, lawsone,erythruloseetc' are usedto produce
,lihr,lr,,ry:rtctone,
F o rmu l a1 5
I =Frl l l rr'l l l i tnent stai n.
A. Calamine 10.0gm
white crys-
Zinc oxide 5.0 gm tI Ittltwlroxyqcetone (l-3-dihydroxy-2-propanone) is a
odour and a sweet taste' It is a
Mineral oil/vegetable oil 25.0gm r+llilr lrrrwtlcr with a characteristic
amino acids, present in skin
Emulsiffing wax 5.0 gm itqrrlnp ;rgcnt and it reacts with certain
3-6 hours after application'
Camphor 1.0gm IEl4tilr. iilr(l produces a brown stain within
is not
B. Glycerin lhe , rrlrrutis I'urtherincreasedby exposureto light' If application
5.0 gm staining' To get an even
Rose water ql.,1r.1,r'ltctly it can produce an uneven
49.0 gm formulated as emulsion' lf
Methyl parahydroxy benzoate .g3,1,,,,t,,,,, ,,rd staini.tj, it can preferablybe
q.s. a glycol to stabilize
Propyl parahydroxy benzoate i* ,'',,',1rrssolution, the preparation should include
q.s. '- give
rhu a,,lrrliottand provide a continuousfilm' As this stain cannot
Mix the emulsiffing wax and mineral oil and heat it to about 70"C. can be incorporated
ciri I'tillc(tion against sunburn, a sunscreenagent
Take water preheated ar 70oc and add to the first mixture with continu- also for
int,r tlrr' llrcparation to achieve a quick tanning effect and
ous stirring to prepare a cream. Dissolve the preservative and camphor used in 3'0 to 4'0o
in the glycerin and mix the calamine and zinc oxide to a smooth naste. Fi,,lr,lr,rrtrrgainstsunburn' Dihydroxyacetone'is
Higher
*i,,1 1,1 t .,t the solution is to be adjusted between 6'0-6'5'
Add water to a creamy consistencyand mix with previously prepared 8'0 no
I rifrrr'illr;rliotrat lower pH producespatchy staining' At pH above
cream.
I rl rrur t' r prrtduted.
(2-hydroxy-
(3) Simulative Preparations I ii ) lttglone(5-hydroxy-1,4-naphthaquinone)or lawsone
gives good
They are also termed as artificial suntan preparations. There is a I I l,rl,lrtlr:rquinone)in combination with dihydroxyacetone
is obtained
good demand of such preparationsto obtain a suntan. The purpose of =[ainrrF lrrgloneis obtained from walnut shells and lawsone
of dihydroxyacetone in 50Vo isopropanol also
enhanced colour may be to prevent skin damage by absorption of filflf r f lr'nnit. 307o solution
erythemal radiation or to indicate the well-being of the health. An F,,rffirffrnp.0.035% juglone or llawsone is normally used as artificial
artificial suntan normally is obtained by staining of the skin, whatever =r4iillil[',1lrcparation.
in cosmetic
may be the purpose. Though several natural materials, like walnut juice, trrrl l')n'lhrulose is also used as artificial staining agent
olive oil extract or cudbear and henna, were used from ancient times for It is used 0'5-10% according
l,l-|rilirlr()n. lt is butane-1,3,4-triol-2-one'
skin stain, they are not favourable nowadays. Now mainly synthetic t,r llrr=rlcgt'ccof browning required.
staining materials are used. system
',lrrrrrirtgsubstancesare taken in a suitable solvent or vehicle
(a) Systemic suntan : Some substanceshave been found to increase glycol, sorbitol etc' Preparations mar-
*irtrrrrinH alcohol, propylene
pigmentation and thus producing suntan. The need to speed up the rate or cream type (emulsion)' For cream
!.t.,1 rrrc cither solutions
 102 *I r TI INS( I(IjIIN PREPARATIONS
103
A HANDBOOK OF COSME] I( .
preparations
suitableemulsifring agentsor surfaceactiveagentsshorr,l It l)ihydroxyacetone 3.0 gm
be selected' Also the preparationsshould have suitable l'opyleneglycol 6.0 gm
pJrfumesu,,,r
preservatives. Water 71.0 gm
Itorfume q.s.
Formula 16
Dihydroxyacetone Mcthyl parahYdroxY benzoate q.s.
4.0 gm q.s.
Ethanol (95%) l'ropyl parahydroxYbenzoate
28.0 gm
Sorbitol syrup (70%o) 3.0 gm
Boric acid powder 1.0 gm
Methyl parahydroxy benzoate 1.0gm
Allantoin 0.3 gm
Water 60.7 gm r l ::r I
6 111
Perfume 2.0 gm
Dissolve the dihydroxyacetone in sorbitol syrup. Fornrula20
_ Make the solutiorr A Sunscreenagent (oil soluble) 10.0gm
of other things in water and add alcohor and mix
with first part. Adjusr Non-ionic surfactant(tween) 2.5 gm
pH at 6.0 by addition of lactic acid.
llthylene glycol monostearate 2.0 gm
Formula lZ lI l'ropyleneglycol 8.0 gm
Dihydroxyacetone 3.0 gm . I)ihydroxyacetone 3.0 gm
Propylene glycol 6.0 gm Water 74.5 gm
Alcohol 3.0 gm I)erfume q.s.
Water 88.0 gm Methyl parahYdroxYbenzoate q.s.
Perfume q.s. I'ropyl parahydroxYbenzoate q.s.
Methyl parahydroxy benzoate q.s. \lrr logcther ingredientsof 'A' and heat to 75oC' Dissolve the
,Dissolve
the preservative and dihydroxyacetone in propylene
glycol rllln,lr,ryrcctone and preservativesin propyleneglycol and water" Heat
and part of water. Add arcohol and perfume i t ,i 1,,,t(; 75.,C . A dd, B't o'A'wit h cont inuousst ir r ing. Cool while
and remainder of iater.
Mix and adjust the pH at 6.0 with the uaartion of to .l-5oCand add perfurne'
lactic acid.
-ririint,
LOTION TYPE I r rrl rrnl i oh
Formula lg \ . rrr ;rrty other preparations.identification and quantitative determi-
Sunscreenagent (water soluble) 10.0gm rr,ltr,,ilr)l various ingredientsare essentialfor evaluation and quality
Dihydroxyacetone 3.0 gm ..,iltr,,1Poirrlof view. Apart from theseroutine tests sornespecialtests
Propylene glycol 5.0 gm ir, rl'., rrt:ccssary for thesetypes of products.
Alcohol 25.0 gm
Water ,. 57.0 gm
Perfume q.s.
Methyl parahydroxy benzoate q.s.
and comparedwith any other standardsutrstance.
t,. ,t,.t(.ililinccl
EMULSION TYPE
Formula 19 tlt l'lrvthemal dosage : It is importantto estimatethe erythemally
A. Mineral oil 10.0gm . nr r trvt. r''diation or F;-vitons/cm2,transmitted by a suntan preparation.
Non-ionic emulsifier (tween) 10.0gm |,1 (.rvthclnai energy is the prnduct of the soiar energy transrnitted
104 A FIANDBOOK OF COSMI llt

through the film ofsuntan preparation and the effectivenessfactor at tlnr

wavelength.
(3) Sunscreen index : This is evaluation of the relativ scrcnrrr;:
activity of the sunscreencompounds. This is measurementof extinctr,," CHAFTER.T
coefficient (El'i.,,) at 308 mp wavelengthand comparisonwith otlr,r
308 mp is the peak wavelength for effective sunburn. Hair
(4) In-vivo skin testing : This is a direct test on animal sl r'
particularly rabbit, the site normally used is either backsideor abdorn,,,
have
as these sites have maximum sensitivity. Preparationsare applied or' , irr strrrl) and design hair preparationsit is very much essentialto
specific site and exposed to radiation along with a control unprotc(t, ,l parts of the body and
l.rr.,rvl.:dgeof hair. Haii is one of the vital
site, for a specific period of time. The effectsare observedat the errrl,'t , ,,n',itlcrcdto be accessorystructure of the integument along with seba-
the period. Several factors or variables are to be taken care of durinl, tl,, r ,'r,rrsglands, sweat glands and nails' They are also known as epidermal
test as they may influence the results. Such variables or factors.", ,lr,,u,,tives as they originate from the epidermis during embryological
of
radiation source, size of the test field, etc. rllvclopment. Hair is an important component of the overall appeal
tlr,' lrtrinan body. Presenceof hair in odd place can make a negative
of a
ellr.t I, whereashair on head is a part of overall attraction and beauty
or
Irrrnurrrbeing. So, people take a lot ofcare of hair to make an impact
i rgrpci tl .

llnlr und Hair Follicles

llclirre puberty the hair is mainly present on the scalp, the eyebrows
places
rrrrrtcyolashes,irrespectiveof sex. At puberty hair grows in other
the
lalr.iixillae, over the pubes in both sexes and in male as beard on
from
lirrc. 'Ihough all rnammals have hair but hair in man is different
nl l rcts.
I lairs can be found nearly all over the surface ofthe skin except over
o,rrrrc.specificsites like the sides and soles of the feet, the palms of the
lrrrntls,the sides of the fingers and toes' the lips, and portions of the
,'rtcrnal genitalia. There are about 50,00'000 hairs on the human body
,rrrrl ()8 per cent of them are on the general body surface and about
l,(x),(x)0-1,20,000are on the head. Population density of normal adult
rt.rrlJrhair is reported to be between 225 hair cm2 on average with
uilrirrble.ung" o? 175-300 hair cm2. The rate of hair growth has been
of
rr'rrtcd to 6e varying with sites. Scalp and chin have highest rate
p.rowtlr. The rate of growth of scalp hair is between A"27-0'40 mm per
,t,,y 'l'he growth rate of axillary hair is nearly same' The growth rate
l,,r lrair on Uody surface is about 0'2 mm per day' Though the daily
vilriations of temperature have no effect on the growth rate but the study
there
rrrrlit:utcdhigher growth rate of beard in summer than winter. Also
hair in
r.; (lnc study report which indicated that the growth of scalp

105
 106 A HANDBOoKoF cosMll.nl,
women is faster than men. The growth rate of scalp hair is more rr,
young and adults and declines in old ase.
Cuticlecovering Medulla
hair shaft
Sebaceous Connectivetissue
gland
Glassy
membrane
Externalroot
sheath
Rool lnternalroot
hair plexus sheath
Fig. 7-1 Schematic structure ofcross_section
ofhair
Hair production is 'a processof mutual inv.lvement of both dermi:;
and epidennis and originatesfrorn hair foilicres. A schematicstructurt.
<rfhair is shown in Fig. 7-1. Hair follicles extend deep into the derrnis.
typically projecting into the underlyingsubcutaneouslayer. The base
rir
the hair follicle, called hair papilla, is a peg of connectivetissuecontai,
ing capillaries and nerves. Hair papilla is further surroundeclbv hair
bulb which consistsof epithelial celrs" Hair production is a specllize,l
cornificationprocess. The epithelial layer involved in hair proiuction is
called the hair matrix. Basal cells near the centre of the hair matrix
divide by mitosis producing daughter ceils and are gradually pushetr
towards the surface. The new soft cells are funnelled up throush thr
constricted follicle, The cells proiluced closest to the centre "ur ,1.,.
matrix fonn the medulla or core of the hair. cells closer to the edge *l
the developing hair f,orm the cortex which is relatively hard. soft arrtl
flexible keratin is presenl in the medulla but the cortex contains ha*l
keratin which gives the hair its stiffness. coat of the hair is callcri
cuticle which is fbrrned by the dead cells at the surfaceof the hair. lr
contains hard keratin. The root of the hair is extended from the hai;
bulb to the point- about halfway to the ski' surface where inrernar
organizationof tlre hair is cornplete. The hair shaft is extendeclfrori
this point to the exposed tip of the hair. T'he size, shape,eolour arr,l
nature of the hair shaft are highly variatrle.
l'he cells of the hair follicle u'ail, iue organizedinto thr:eedistinctrivt
concentriclayers and inclu,Ce--
f h, i l A tR t0'l
( l ) l lrt: internal root sheath that surrounds the hair root and the
rlct:pcrportion of the shaft.
t 't I lrc cxternal root sheath that extends from skin surface to the
l rrri rrnatri x.
r 1) | lrc glassy membrane,a thickened basementmembrane wrapped
irr a dense connective tissue sheath.
frr tlrc ;rrlult integument there are two types of hair-
| | ) Vcllums hairs : These are the fine peach fuzz hairs located over
r*rrr,
lr ,'l tlrc:body surface.
tl) 'l'crminal hairs: These are heavy, more deeply pigmented,and
*rrFlrnrcscurly. Examplesare hairs on head, including eyebrowsand
F l F l ttl l tr " l
I lrlr)ur of hairs can vary from person to person. This reflects
dtllFrnr('cs in structure and variations in the pigment produced by
rrrFldr.(ytcs at the hair papilla. Though these characteristicsare geneti-
,cllr rL'tcrrrrined, but hormonal and environmentalfactorscan influence
tfrc r.rrrlirions of the hair. with increasingage, pigment production
rlFrrFrrir'\ :rrrd the hair colour lightens towards gray. white hair is the
reallt rrl t:ornbination of a lack of pigment and the presence of air
htrilrL.r within the medulla of the hair shaft. But this change in
ei,lrlrrrli()llis gradualas the hair is dead and inert.
Alrrrrt liom keratin, it also contains a small amount of uric acid.
| rs irlso varied according to the mineral content. In brown hair
'Lrlr
thererr titrllon, nitrogen, hydrogen, phosphorus,sulphur and water. Iron
' "rrlrrrf is rrrore in red hair. Normally carbon content is about 44yo
lri, lr r.; rrrurethan othqr elements.
I xl r l furnsof ,H ai r
llirrr lurs several important functions-
I I ) | lrc hair on the head protect the scalp from ultraviolet light,
trrslrion round the head. and ir.sulatethe skull.
t') lrycbrows protect the eye from small foreign particles and
irrsr:cts.Also it diverts sweat from the eyes.
( | ) Vivrissae, the hairs, guarding the entrancesto nostrils and exter-
rrrl car canals filter the air and help prevent the entry of small
irtst:ctsand foreign Particles.
r.l) Ilrdy hair helps in evaporation of perspiration and draining of
cxtcrnal water from the bodv.
108 A HANDBooK
oF cosMETrcs *t, ilAilr 109

(5) Hair is also part of sensingfunction. As, to check a root hair ffrlr ('rre Preparations
plexusofsensorynervessurroundsthe baseofeach hair follicle, ln overcomeailmentsor otherproblemsof hair and also for decora-
one can feel the movementof the shaft of even a single hair. llye nr heuutificationpurposesvarious hair care preparationsare widely
This sensitivity acts as an early-warningsystemthat may help to ccrl 'l'lrc need or demandof such productshas increasedover the
prevent injury. tcarr lt sharesa high portionof cosmeticproductsmarketed.
It is responsiveto severalexternal stimulating conditions like rage, All lhe hair careproductscan be classifiedin the following way and
fear cold etc. and standserect when stimulatederector pili pull on thc rlll In rliscussed in the proceedingchaptersaccordingly.
follicles and force the hairs to standerect. (l) llalr cleansers: Variousshampooslike clear liquids,liquid
gtimrr. solid creamsor gels, anti-dandruffshampoos,oil shampoos,
Ailments of Hair
pawrlerr,dry shampoos, etc.
There can be some ailments to the normal health of hair and can
causetrouble. There can be problem in pigmentationand thus changing ll) Hrlr dressings: Anhydrousbrilliantines,pomades,hair oils,
the colour of the hair. htlr rreRrns,gum basedhair dressings, hair
hair lacquers,alcohol-based
fdkrrrs,rcsinlotions,sprays.
Baldnessor alopeciais one importantproblem and can be of differ-
ent kinds. Baldnesscan occuras a resultofdeficiency ofdiet, ill health l.l! llnlr wayers, curlers and straighteners : Hot waving, cold
or certain operations. Common baldnessis of different type and occurs *cvllrg, lepid waves,roller and pin perms,instantperms.
in maximumnumbers. In this the hair is lost graduallyand it usually containingvarious substanceslike
({l lhlr tonics : Preparations
starts at the crown and the temple. Common baldnessis normally vitamins,etc.
dcrivatives,
ul;rhur
inherited. It can be passedon by the motherto her sons. (t) lluir removers: Depilatories,
epilatories.
Dandruff is causedby skin irritation,diseaseor microbialinfection. (6) llair dyes and bleaches(hair colorants) : Variousdyes and
In the first one it occursbecausethe stratumcorneumshedslarge scales hlertlrIrrgpreparations.
which are visible. This can be due to excessivebrushing,or scratching,
strong lotions and soft alkaline soapsusedto wash the hair. Thesecan l7f Shavingpreparations:Soaps,creams.
harm the skin and break down the outer layer of the epidermis. The
secondform of dandruff is due to disea^qe which causesthe large scales
to fall on the shoulders. The more the headis scratched.the fasterthese
scalesare produced.

Stepsto Keep Hair Healthy

(l) Wash the hair with mild shampooswhich are reinforced by
active substances.
Q) After shampooingtreat the hair with rinsing preparationsand
setting lotions in order to impart the gloss and firmnessto it.
(3) Groom the hair with hair conditionersin order to make it elastic
and protect it from deteriorationafter frequentpermanentwav-
ing.
(4) Preservethe hair and its growth by constantattention,using hair
lotions and hair treatrnentpackscontainingactive substances.
TI I
I

I
I rhr l A tR (' T.E A N SI NG pREpARATI O NS lll
r.') lr should effectivelywash the hair.
t I t lt should produce a good amount of foam to satis$ the psycho-
I CHAPTER-8 hrgical requirementsof the user.

1i r'l I llrc shampoo should be easily removed by rinsing with water.

ll Hair Cleansing Preparations {it lt should leave the hair non-dry, soft, lustrous with good, man_
tiI rrtrlcabilityand a minimum of fly-away.
l r r ) It should impart a pleasant fragranceto the hair.
I ll It should not make the hand rough and chapped.
t l l l ll should not have any side effects or causesinitation to skin or
l
(:yc
i
l llr. rrr:ri. problem of cleaning hair is removal of fat or greasewhich
I ,rnrls ;r g..d detergent. Availability of a wide range of synthetic
I Jerr.rF.rrr:;
I has led to a flood of products in the market. Detergent power
ur lltr-t(.1tovalof dirt involves-
( l) 'Ihe ability of the detergent to wet both the dirt and the

SHAMPOOS , substratehair fibre.

1.1) Lowering of interfacial tension to such a level that displace_
ment of dirt or greasematerials becomes easy.
(i) Dispersion of dirt particles for easy washing and removal.
lt .;clcc[ detergent(s)for using in shampoos,the following factors
= l rl ttl rll rr'corrsi dere d-
( | ) Safety or non-toxicity
1.1) Fiaseof distribution and lathering power
( | ) l,ustre imparted to hair
1.1) tlase of combing wet hair
( \ ) Speed of drying
1{r), Haseof setting dry hair

I onrpori ti onof S ham poos

are the main component of shampoos. Mainly anionic
"rrl;r(l;ults
-"rtrlirrlirnlsare used. cationic, non-ionic and ampholytic surfactants
hatr i tl .;osome use.
The furictions of a sharnpoo are expectedto be various. llr. r:rw rnaterialsused in manufacture of shampoosare classified as:
A good an.
accep able shampoo should have the fbllowing characteristics: ( | ) l'rincipal surfactants which provide detergency and foam.
(l) {t should effectirlelyand compretely
remove dust or soil, exces- 1-l) Secondary surfactants which improve detergency foam and
sive sebum or other fatty substances,loose corneal hair condition.
cens from thc
hair and other resid'al substancesofhair dressings
or settings or 1I ) other additives which impart other characteristics to the
other materials.
shampoo products.
ll0

!-

tl2 A FI,ANDBOOKOF COSMETI(]S
(l) Principal Surfactants
Anionic surfactantsare mostly used as principal surfactants. They
have very good foaming properties. Non-ionic surfactantshave good
cleansingactivity but do not have sufficient foamingpower. So, they
are not much used as principal surfactants. Though cationic surfactants
have good foaming characteras well as some cleansingpower but arc
not much used as they are toxic and causedamageto the eye. But at
non-toxic low concentrationthey are used in hair conditioners.Soaps
are not preferredas their solutionsare alkalineand make hair dull. In
hard water, they leave a deposit of calcium and magnesiumsalts on thc
hair shaft. However,they are cheapand thereforeare usedin low-priced
shampoos. Ampholytics are generallynot as good as anionics. Also
they are more expensive. So, they are mainly used as secondary
surfactantsand as good hair conditioners.The variousclassesof princi-
pal surfactantsusedin shampoosare mentionedbelow.
Alkyl sulphates : Alkyl sulphatsare most widely used anionic
detergents, particularlylauryl and myristyl sulphates.They aresulphated
derivativesof long chain fatty alcohols, C12 or above, obtainedby
catalytic reduction of fatty acids of coconut and palm kernel oils.
Normally both of them are taken together as lauryl gives a greater
volume of latherand myristyl givesgreaterrichness.Sulphates of cetyl,
octyl or decyl are not much useful. Various saltsof lauryl sulphateslike
sodium lauryl sulphate,triethanol lauryl sulphate,monoethanol lauryl
sulphateand ammoniumlauryl sulphateare used. As magnesiumlauryl
sulphateis less hygroscopicit is preferablyusedin powdershampoos"
Sodiumlauryl sulphate,the mostcommonlyusedalkyl sulphatesalt,has
poor solubility in cold water but solubility increaseswith temperature
and has good solubility at normal tqmperatureof 35-40'C. Trieth-
anolaminealkyl sulphateis presentin most of the presentday shampoos.
Alkyl polyethyleneglycol sulphates(alkyl ether sulphates): Sul-
phate derivativesof lauryl alcohol ether with polyethyleneglycol or
similar substancesare good cleansers.Normally a chainof 2-3 ethylene
oxide molecules condensed. Sodium salts'of thesealkyl ether sul-
is
phatesare more water soluble than sodium lauryl sulphateand thus a
product can be made. They also have high foamingpower.
concentrated,
They can also act as solventsfor non-polaradditivesnormallyrequired
to be incorporated'inshampoos.Thoughthesesubstances are not good
hair conditionersbut as they are cheapadditionalconditionerscan be
easilyaddedto compensate the deficiency.
I lr t llAlR CLEANSINGPREPARATIONS I 13
()ther anionic surfactantsoccasionally used are sodium salt ofalkyl
herrrenc sulphonates, paraffin sulphonates, faffy acid soaps. ,As fatty
rtirl soapshave problem with hard water due to presenceof calcium and
rurrgrrcsium,addition of sequestering agents like salts of EDTA or
1roly phosphatesis required for stabilization.
(2) Secondary Surfactants
'l'heseare added to produce rnore foam and to improve the condition
ll lhc hair. They are mostly anionic or ampholytic detergents. There
Ire scveral categoriesof detergentswhich are used only in conjunction
witlr other detergentsmentioned under principal surfactants.
'l'lreseinclude dialkyl sulphosuccinates,monoalkyl sulphosuccinates,
trrethyltaurides,fatty acid alkanolamides,acyl amino acids, acyl peptides,
nt yl sarcosins,monoglyceride sulphates,turkey red oil, and secondary
nlhyl sulphates. Some of them are used specifically in particular type of
rlrnrrrpoos.
Monoalkyl sulphosuccinates are non-irritant to the eyes and thus may
lrc rrsod in body shampoos. Dialkyl derivatives like sodium di (ethyl-
lrrxyl) sulphosuccinateand the di (tertiary) nonyl sulphosuccinateare
vr.ry good wetting agents and are used where wetting and penetration
nr.lionare required.
Mcthyl taurides, amides of methyl taurine, are amphoteric. They
lrrrvc the hair in excellent condition because of the presence of the
group. Though their foaming power is not very good but they are
'rlri(lc
trrtorporatedas hair conditioners.
lratty acid alkanolamides, particularly monoalkanolamides such as
rrrorrocthanolamides and isopropanolamides,are used along with lauryl
rrrlplrateto increasethe solubility of lauryl sulphate and thus to increase
l ul l rcr.
Acyl amino acids are in ampholytic class and example is acyl
It rrrninopropionateswhere chain length of acid is of C12-C14for best
ftrrrrrring
activity.
Acyl peptides are acyl polyamino acids produced by the reaction of
chloride and hydrolyzed proteins. They have excellent hair condi-
'rryl
Irorring power. They are costly and have less foaming power.
Acyl sarcosins contain a CON group and have good hair conditioning
ellccts. They are normally used along with alkyl sulphatesor alkyl ether
aulphates.
Secondary alkyl sulphates were used earlier but are not much used
rrowirdays. They are good cleansers but have a strong characteristic
 lt4 A HANDBOOKOF COSMETICS
odour and have effect on hair. They also hydrolyze on storage. Occa-
sionally, they are used along with alkyl benzene sulphonatesand alkyl
sulphates. Monoglyceride sulphates, like sulphated monolaurin, are
same as lauryl sulphatesand used in various commercial products.
Turkey red oils form a light coating over hair and are preferably used
in oil shampoos. They have effective cleansing character but very low
foaming effect. The important turkey red oils are sulphonatedcastor oil
and sulphonated olive oil. Normally they are used in combination.
Alkyl phosphates are normally used in low foaming shampoos as
they have low foaming power. They also have milder effects on hair.
Some other anionic surfactantsare also occasionally used in low foam-
ing shampoos,as they are good cleansersbut not a good foaming agent.
(3) Other Additives
Several additives are incorporated in shampoo products to achieve
specialized charactersand other purposes. They can be classified as-
(a) Germicides and anti-dandruff agents
(b) Conditioning agents
(c) Pearlscentagents
(d) Sequestrants
(e) Thickening agents
(f) Colours
(g) Perfumes
(h) Preservatives
All the above items are not essential for a shampoo but can be
incorporated according to need and the specific purpose of the targeted
population.
(a) Germicides and anti-dandruffagents : Germicides and/or anti-
dandruff agents are incorporated to prevent microbial infection of scalp
and to treat dandruff respectively. Common germicides used in soap can
be used in shampoosalso. There are quaternaryammonium compounds,
such as benzalkonium chloride, cetrimide etc.; some phenol derivatives;
tetramethyl thiuram disulphide, etc. Substancesused as anti-dandruff
agents are selenium sulphide, cadmium sulphide, zinc pyridinium-thiol-
N-oxide, zinc undecylenate,sodium sulphacetamideetc.
(b)'Conditioning agents : Conditioning agents are mainly fatty
substanceslike lanolin, oils; natural products like herbal extracts, egg,
amino acids, lecithin and polymeric substances.These substancesgive a
special conditioning effect to the hair. If amino acids are incorporated
into shampoos, after washing amino acid remains deposited on the hair
I hI IIAIR CT-EANSING
PREPARATIONS I l5
cl'l btrrlp and produces a good conditioning effect on the hair. Also
Frrli'rr lryclrolysatescontaining amino acids are incorporated,for condi-
llrrrrlrF.t:f'lcct.
(r') I'carlscent agents : Pearlscent agents are also used to give
=.1e, r,rl r:onditioning to hair. They brighten the hair. For this purpose
errl'rlrtrrlcd4-methyl coumarins particularly 4-methyl-7-diethylamino-
eri rl rrl nri nand 4-m et hyl- 5, 7- dihydr ocoum ar inar e used in 0. 2- lYo
r rrrrrrrrllrtir)n and they act betterat pH between4.5-6. Thesesubstances
r;ll,'r I liglrt. Fluorescentmaterialsare also occasionallyused.
lrl) Sr:questrants : They form a water soluble complex with Ca-
alrl M1iI and thus prevent the formation of insoluble salts of soaps or
+lslnrHcnlsby these two divalent ions present in water. Sometimes
r olr rrrrrr-:;lltdispersing agents are incorporated to disperse the salts
l,,rnrt'rlby the divalentsCa#, Mg++ etc. Sequestrants like sodium salt
,,1 | | ) l'A (ethylene diamine tetra acetic acid) are used to entrap the
rltcrlcring ions like Ca++ and Mg++ presentin the water.
(c) 'l'hickening agents : To make shampoo preparationsviscous, for
t.,r',r lr;rritfling and minimize wastage while pouring, thickening agents
4rF rr( orporated. The substancesnormally used for this purpose are
al prrr;rl t' s,pol yvi nyl alcohol, m et hyl cellulose, colloidal silicat es,
gr',11r'llrylcne glycol esters etc. Sometimes a suitable combination of
=rrrf irrl;rrrls also make the preparation viscous. Sulphated castor oil
rl,rlpr 1vi11' sulphatedolive oil is one such combination.
(l) (lolours : Colours are preferred by several people and thus
,,rltrrlrlt'certified colours can be incorporated to produce a visually
:ttlrirrlivc impact. The colours should be water soluble.
(g) I'crfumes : Perfumes are also incorporated to have an after-use
lrn;,rirnt:oon the hair. They also help to mask the odour of the other
trrprt'rlietits,particularly detergents. Various perfumes are used for this
lrnrpo.ic.Perfumesare used in 0.3-1.0%.
lh) l'reservatives : Preservativesare very important as most prod-
utr irrc liable to attack by microbes. This leads to breakdown of the
Ir,rlrrtt, odour, discolorationand cloudiness. Water-solublepreserva-
ttir", irrc:lo be used and p-hydroxy benzoic acid and its methyl ester,
l'lr,'l\,1rrrcrcuriccompounds,formaldehydemay be used.
I r ptr of Preparations
At't:orclingto the nature of the products the shampoo products cdn be
rlrl,',rlit'tlas follow. The choice of productsis basedon the need of the
ll6 A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS I.h I II^IR CLEANSINGPREPARATIONS II7
user. Mix all the ingredientstogetherand add perfume finally to mixed
(l) Powdershampoos rrrnqrund trituratefurther.
(2) Clear liquid shampoos
(3) Liquid creamor lotion shampoos CLEAR LIQUID SHAMPOOS
(4) Solid cream/gelshampoos Formula4
(5) Oil shampoos Triethanolamine lauryl sulphate 45.0 gm
(6) Miscellaneousincludinganti-dandruffmedicatedshampoos Coconut monoethanolamide 2.0 gm
General Preparations Water 53.0 gm
Perfume q.s.
They are preparedby simpte mixing process. In powder shampoos q.s.
Colour
the ingredientsare simply mixed and the perfumeis addedlast. q.s.
Preservative
In caseof clear liquid shampoosthe detergents are first dissolvedin
half of the water with little heat if necessary. other ingredientsare Formula5
addedto other part of the water and then mixed with the first part. The Triethanolaminelauryl sulphate 60.0 gm
perfume is addedlast. Lauric isopropanolauride 2.0 gm
Other preparationscan be made by simple mixing in a gradual
Water 38.0 gm
Perfume q.s.
manner,taking different ingredientsat different stages.
Preservative q.s
POWDER.SHAMPOOS
Formula6
FormulaI Sodiumsalt of sulphated 40.0 gm
Sodium bicarbonate 50.0 gm lauryl alcohol ether
Disodium phosphate 200 gm Water 60.0 gm
Soap powder 30.0gm q.s.
Perfume
Perfume q.s. q.s
Preservative
Mix all the ingredients together and add perfume finally.
I'hc above three preparationscan be made by simple solution. Per-
firrrreshould be added last. Preservativeshould be dissolved in water.
Formula2
Henna powder 5.0 gm LIQUID CREAM SHAMPOOS
Borax 15.0gm
Sodium carbonate Strch shampoos are expected to be mild and emollient in action.
25.0 gm
Potassium carbonate Norr-ionic stearateslike propylene glycol stearate,polyethylene glycol
5.0 gm
Soap powder 4tX) distearate together with insoluble metallic stearatesare used for
50.0 gm
Perfume opncification.
q.s.
Formula7
Formula3 Sodium amyl sulphate 30o/o 25.0 gm
Powdered cammomile flowers 5.0 gm PEG 400 distearate 5.0 gm
Borax 25.0 gm gm
Magnesium stearate 2.0
, Sodium carbonate 20.0 gm Water 68.0 gm
Soap powder 50.0 gm q.s.
Ninol AB2l (thickening agent)
Perfume q.s. Oleyl alcohol (conditioning agent) q.s.
Perfume q.s
 118 A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS Th I I{AIR CLEANSING PREPARATIONS 119

ForrnulaE Formula l l
Monoethanolamine lauryl sulphate Sodium lauryl sulphate paste 47.0 gm
(27o/oactive) 40.0 gm Oleic acid 20.0 gm
Ethylene glycol monostearate 5.0 gm Triethanolamine 10.5gm
Water 55.0gm Water 22.5 gm
Perfume q.s. Perfume q.s.
Preservative q.s Preservative q.s.
Colour i q.s.
Heat and mix the ethylene glycol monostearatewith a smalr quantity
of the detergent to form a homogeneous mixture. Add more detergent Mix water, oleic acid and sodium lauryl sulphate paste and heat to
slowly and then water, mixing thoroughly before addition of next. fitt"(' Slowly add triethanolamine with continuous stirring. Add per-
Perfume is added last after coolins to 35oC. f i rrrrc:rl i cr cooi ngto 35oC.
Fo r m u l a 1 2
Formula9
Fatty alcohol sulphate Miranol 15.0gm
27.50gm
Lauric isopropanolamide Triethanolamine lauryl sulphate (40%) 25.0 gm
1.00gm
Ethylene glycol monostearate Coconut diethanolamide l0.Q gm
3.00gm
Egg powder Methocel (Methyl cellulose) 1.0 gm
0.25gm gm
Water Water 49.0
68.25gm
Perfume Perfume q.s.
q.s.
Preservative Preservative q.s.
q.s.
Colour q.s.
Colour q.s.
Nlrx rniranol, triethanolamine lauryl sulphate and coconut diethanol-
Add whole egg powder or dried egg yolk with small quantity of
lllrrh. with heat. Add methocel and colour with water to make a viscous
water to make a paste. Dilute it with some amount of detergent. Mix
1re'pirr:rlion.Mix this with the previousmixture with continuousstirring.
other ingredients with water separately. Add the first mixture to it with
A'Ll pt'rlumeafter cooling to 35oC.
stirring. Add perfume.
OIL SHAMPOOS
SOLID CREAM/GEL SHAMPOOS
t)rl shampoos basically consist of detergents made of sulphonated
These are made from sodium lauryl sulphate paste with suitable
ltlq l'hcy have good cleansing ability to remove dirt and oil from the
gelling agent such as sodium stearate. Since they have to be stored
in lrrrrrlrrrl,lheydo not form foam. Sulphonatedvegetableoils are made by
collapsible tubes orjars, they should have thick consistency.
lrF,rtrrlt vegetableoils with sulphuric acid or other sulphonating agents,
rrtrrlirtr:good detergents.
For m ula l0
Sodium lauryl sulphate 20.00gm Formula 13
Coconut monsethanolamide 1.00gm Sulphonatedolive oil 16.0gm
Propylene glycol monoste&rate 2.00 gm Sulphonatedcastor oil 16.0gm
Stearic acid 5.00 gm Water 68.0gm
Sodium hydroxide 0.75 gm Perfume q.s.
Water 71.25gm Preservative q.s.
Perfume q.s. Colour q.s.
Mrx all the ingredients together. Colour and preservativesshould be
,ltas,rlvcdin a small quantity of water. Perfume can be added last.
 120 A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS IhI II^IR CLEANSINGPREPARATIONS I2I

MISCELLANEOUSSHAMFOOS lhlr to rest of the detergentmix with continuousstirring. Cool to 40oC

These are encompassingshampooscontaining ingredientsincorpo- a*rrlrdd pcrfume. Addition of perfumeis optional.
ratedto achievespecificfunction along with cleansingaction. Shampoos
can contain anti-dandruff agents,other medicinal agentslike vitamins, Formula17
amino acids, protein hydrolysate,plant extract,antibapterialagents,etc. Thymol 0.05 gm
and are expectedto give additional effectsapart from cleansingaction. Menthol 0.10gm
Camphor 0.10gm
ANTISEPTIC/ANTI-DANDRUFFSHAMPOOS Triethanolaminelauryl sulphate 50.00 gm
Formula14 Water 49.75gm
Sodium lauryl sulphate(paste) 25.0 gm Perfume q.s
Stearicacid 7.0 gm Mlx lhymol,mentholand camphortogether.Add perfumeand mix a
Sodiumhydroxide 1.0gm errrnllnrnountof detergentwith stirring. Continue the addition of
Biosulphurpowder 2.0 gm delergerrlwith gentlestirring. Add waterto volume.
Water 65.0 gm
Perfume q.s. tvrlsnllon of Shampoos
Preservative q.s. \hnrnpoos,beforereleasingto the market,must be testedfor their
Dissolve the sodium hydroxide in a small quality of water with aafetyorr application,to the skin and eyes. Generaltestsfor identifica-
heating at 75"C. Add biosulphurto the sodium hydroxide solution. t|rmol irrgredients and quantityof eachingredientshouldbe carriedout
Take sodium lauryl sulphate and stearic acid together and mix with hy properchemicalanalysis. Someotherspecifictestsare done.
heatingat about 60oC and then add to the aqueoussolution. Stir and ( | ) Vnrious physical propertiesand performancecharacteristics
cool and add perfumeand preservative. ahrrrrhl bc studied. Theseare foam formationand foam stability,rheol-
rrgy,ol lhc products,natureof foam,effect of the shampooon the hair
Formula15 attrllt,, c:haracters
etc.
Triethanolaminelauryl sulphate 14.0gm
l'erlirnnanceand characterof the foam can be studiedby stirring the
Lauric monoethanolarnide 1.5gm
hrnnrrrru speciallydesigneddevice,and by addingselectedsoil suchas
Hexachlorophane 0.5 gm
larmlirr.rnineraloil, vegetableoil or dirt to foam and studyingtheir
Water 84.0 gm
FflFrI
Perfume q.s.
Colour q.s. l'llect on the hair can be studied by half-head technique, where half
Prepareby simplemixing process. ll lhe lruir' is shampooed,the other half is used as control, and compar-
Irrg the two parts by observation and by combing and other process.
Formula16 l)l l,.lfect on skin and eyes:This can be done by applying it on
Seleniumdisulphide 2.5 gm antrrrols. lrritation on skin can be studied by applying it on skin and
Bentonite 5.0 gm nhrrrving the effectson skin.
Sodium lauryl sulphate(paste) 40.0 gm
Water 52.5 gm
Perfume q.s.
First disperseseleniumdisulphideevenlyin bentonite. Mix sodium
lauryl sulphatewith water with heating and stirring to a ternperatureof
about90oC. Add part of this detergentmirr.to the seleniumdisulphide-
bentonite dispersionwith stirring to get a homogeneousmixture. Add

[
 I h ', l t^l l t 'I'ON IC S
123
{ l } ( )ptionally it can also contain conditioners.
('') SlroLrldnot damagescalp or hair.
ll';rir t.rrics have been made for dry scalps or
CHAPTER-9 for oily scalps.Those
Itrr ,rrl\' :;crrllrs are designedto correctthe oily condition urrau." alkaline.
I t'r rlr\' sr:alps11.t.preparations contain substances
to supplement oily
Hair Tonics r l rrti t(t(.1,
ol ' the scalp.

i !* l rr i rrl s
\"rr irrrs .aw materialshave been suggested
Flair tonics, whether their therapeutic action is real or not, occupy a large and are being used in hair
r'!rfrlrt\ s.r'e of these.ingredientshelp to
market today. They claim action against a variety of disorders such as maintain the scarp in good
dandruff alopecia or baldness, seborrhoea and the like. Dandruff can be ' rrrrlrla()..Sorneother ingredientsare usedto enhancethe applaranceof
tl tE l ri l i t
controlled by using a0.25%osolution of a cationic surfactant or selenium
lr.epr in case of oily preparationsas tonic,
sulphide or other selectedsubstancesdissolved in water. Seborrhoeacan normal vehicle fbr the
Irrrlr |rrrit':; is industrial methyrated spirit
be lessened by removing oily secretions by rubbing hair daily with an diluted with water. Arcohol
alcoholic lotion. Baldness,according to science,cannot be cured by any ' 'rlr lrt' rr:rctfin concentrationrange from l0-g5%oas required. It acts as a
='rl'rrrr l.r' removar of a fatty acid-protein
extemal application on the head. But massaging on the scalp can comprex from the hair.
{lr'.lrrrl is not recommendedin high concentration
enhance the blood supply to the scalp and the hair growth. But several as it can cause
l rrehl rhrrvrr of the pro t ein.
tonics claim to grow hair on bald heads. People have suspicion aboul
these products but still demands are there. fr,r1r11r1,yl alcohol can replacealcohol as vehicle but it has
a strong
Srrrrrgr'rrl .rl'ur. Glycerine in 2-5oh is also incorporatedto get emollient
Loss of hair is a natural phenomena of the cyclic activity of the hair
ard lrrlrriclting effects. It also helps as cosolvent.
follicle. Germinal matrix becomes inactive during the resting phase
appearing after the growing phase. Eventually hair becomes detached terr'rrrl rubefacient drugs are recommended
to in,:orporate in hair
and moves up the follicle and falls out. This normal loss, if little higher, r'rtl.i l. stirnulate hair growth. vasodilators
are also incorporated
makes the people use hair tonics or hair lotions. When this loss is not *'|ur'|l..''s. But the massagingdone to apply such
tonics also helps in
replaced by new hair, baldnessstarts. Baldness can occur due to any of -ellilllll;llillllhair growth as it increasestemperatureand localizedcircula-
the three reasons hereditary, presence or increase of male sex hormone, llrr s.rrc: of the active constituentsused are
cantharides,pilocarpine,
and disease of the scalp. Some dubious products are marketed to cure rilrlrrrrrt":rrrl'onia, rosemaryoil, acetic acid,
capsicum,resorcinol,sali-
baldness. , r ll, ir, itl. sulphur,cholesterol,mercuric chloride.
t lr,lc"rcrol has been reported to have
Another new type of products have got the attention of the people. an effect on the activity of the
6,v115 glands and hair formation. As it is water-insoluble
They are termed as hair conditioners mainly used by women, to repair 'e1161 and has
e'r're '..lrrbility in alcohol, cholesterolcan easily
the damage done to the hair by excessive use of other hair treatment be dissolvedin alcohol
r'l lriplr .'rrcentration. However, if alcohor
preparationsor shampoos. concentrationis low, a
=,lr1lr1l;71"t' agent like cetomacrogol,emulsifying wax, needs
An ideal hair tonic should have the following ingredients: tc be
rrrt'|rr"rrirrc(|. PolyoxyetLlyrenecondensation product
of woor wax
(1) A counter irritant to improve supply of blood to the dermal tl r 111' ,t;. (;ur al so be u sedas solubilizer s.
papillae. t
'r"r.r .il, lanorin condensation proclucts or wool wax alcohol
(2) Vitamins and sulphur-containing amino acids for biosynthesisof |
'rrr,h-r',irri'^ products are used as oily rnaterial for hair dressing.
keratin. I rrlrr'r irrrportant substancesused in
h;rir tonics are vitr;rmin F,
(3) Antiseptics for control of dandruff and seborrhoea. '[ir!r"r Ir' pantothe'ic acid, biotin (viiarnin H), pr*tein hydrorysation
1.,:rrrrlnucl ei ca cids"
f' rr' ,l rrr

t22
 A HANDBoOKoF cosMll l r( r h', l tA Il { I"ON IC S 125
124
Formula2
The idea of using these substancesis that either growth or struclrrr,
Betanaphthol 2.0 gm
and rigidity of the hair will benefit by using them on scalp antl ril
Alcohol (90%) 50.0gm
contact with keratogenouszone or the tissue surrounding the hair palrrll ' 48.0 gm
Water
or germinal matrix. Vitamin F is the mixture of unsaturatedfatty at r,t
Glycerine 10.0gm
including linoleic, linolenic and arachidonic acids and they helP "' q.s.
Perfume
treatment of skin irregularities and in hair preparations. For prolrr"
hydrolysate proteins of leather, skin, gelatin, hair are treated with acrrl Formula3
alkalis or enzymes and the products are used. Borax 2.0 gm
Several anti-dandruff materials like sulphur, cationic surfaclarrt" Quinine arsenite 0.1 gm
selenium sulphide, cadmium sulphides are also used in hair tonics,'r Glycerine 3.0 gm
lotions. Formaldehyde 0.3 gm
Alcohol 4.0 gm
(1) Resorcinol : Resorcinol and its monoacetate have powcr lrrl
Chloroform 7.0 gm
antiseptic properties and are therefore used in anti-dandruffpreparatiorr:
Water 83.35gm
They are less toxic than phenols. Large dosesof resorcinol are howcv, '
Perfume 0.25 gm
toxic, due to the formation of methaemoglobin. It is absorbedthrotrl'1,
skin, especially injured surfaces. Due to these reasons,it is not mtttlr Formula4
used in tonics. Chlorothyrnol 0.1 gm
(2) Beta naphthol (beta hydroxynaphthalene) : It is a powerlrrl Tincture of capsicum 3.0 gm
antiseptic, slightly soluble in water (0.1%). Boric acid increasesit' Quinine arsenite 0.1 gm
solubility. Benzoic acid 0.3 gm
Alcohol 40.0 gm
(3) Natural extracts quinine: Being a poison to all forms of livirrl'
Water 56.3gm
maiter, it helps in keeping the scalp sterile and stimulates it by frictit'rr
Perfume 0.2 gm
(4) Capsicum : Capsicum consists of the dried ripe fruits of caps'
cum and contains a crystalline colourless pungent substance callt',| F'ormula5
capsaicin" Its tincture is used in tonics' Pilocarpine nitrate 0.05 gm
Quinine hydrochloride 2.00 gm
(5) Cantharides : Dried "cantharis vesicatoria" contains a cryslrl
Glycerine 5.00gm
line lactone cantharidin. It is used for its irritating, stimulant propertit'"
Alcohol 5.00 gm
on the scalp.
Water 89.75gm
(6) Vitamins and unsaturated acids are also used in conjugati"" Perfume q.s
for their hair growing properties. Preservative q.s.
Preparations llrt: prcparationcan be made by simple solution technique.
F o rm u l aI Fo r m u l a 6
Fclwler's solution 16.00gm Cholesterol 0.5 gm
Sulphonated castor oil 10.00gm AlcoholI 25.0 gm
Resorcinolmotloacetate 1.50gm Cetomacrogol 1.0 gm
Perfume 0.25 gm Water 73.5 grn
Alcohol 72.25gm Perfume q.s.
Preservative q.s.
126 A FIANDBOOKOF COSMETICS I l r r) IIA IR TON IC S 127
F o rm u l a7 For m ula11
Calcium pantothenate 0.5 gm Stearyl alcohol 0.6 gm
Glycerine 3.0 gm Glyceryl monostearate 4.2 gm
Alcohol 27.5 gm Sodium chloride 0.2 gm
Water 69.0 gm Benzalkoniumchloride 1.5 gm
Perfurne q.s. Water 97.5 gm
Preservative q.s. Colour q.s.
Lactic acid (to adjust pH 5.0-6.0) q.s. Perfume q.s.
F o rm u l a8 For m ula12
Protein hydrolysate 1.0 gm Stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride 5.0 gm
Glycerine 2.0 gm Ethylene glycol monostearate 2.0 gm
Calcium pantothenate 0.2 gm Cetyl alcohol 3.0 gm
Alcohol 25.0gm Water 90.0 gm
Water 71.7gm Perfume q.s.
Perfume q.s. Preservative q.s.
Preservative q.s.
q.s llair oil : This is widely usedby the peoplefor nourishmentand care
Lactic acid (to ad.iustpH 5.0-6.0)
nl h;rir'. Variety of hair oils are available in the market. Some are pure
F o rmu l a9 rrrl likc coconut oil etc. Others normally contain some important ingre-
Salicl'lic acid 0.2 gm rl rt' rrl tl
s i ssol vedi n oil.
Resorcinol 0.2 gm
l ' :r' nl unti on
Oleyl alcohol 20.0 gm
79.6gm As in any other cosmetic products, these products should also be
Alcohol
q.s. .r'irlrrrtcd for the contents estimation and their identification. Also some
Perfunle
ltlrcr tcstsare requiredto be done accordingto purpose.
F o rmu l al 0 (l) Antisepticproperty: This can be done by in vitro antimicrobio-
Salicylic acid 0.2 gm hrp,rt'lrl
testsagainstsome specific organismsusing liquid or solid medium.
Precipitated sulphur 3.0 gm
()) Stability lesl : Stability of the products and of the ingredients
Glycerine 0.3 gm
rnrr',lbc studied particularly effects of heat, light etc. It is well known
Alcohol 10.0gm
llrirl nrost of the phenolic materialswill discolour on exposureto light
Water 86.5gm
Perfume q.s. 'ur(l llrus may make fair hair dark, particularly in the presenceof traces
,rf ;rlkirli or soap. For stability study acceleratedstability study may be
Preservative q.s.
rl nI tt'.

Conditioners ( l) Sesitivity /esl : Some of the ingredients, like antiseptics, may

conditioners are used after shampooing the hair. to render the hair t lrrsc irritation, sensitizationor photosensitizationof the skin. So, these
qlrorrklbe tested and can be done by patch test, either open or occlusive.
more lustrous, easy to comb, and fiee tiom static electricity when dry.
The.y are also used to improve dainagedhair. Hair may be damaged by
eNcessive use ()f bleaches and permanent waves. Condit"oners are
usually based on cationic detergentsand fatty materials like lanolin nr
inineral oil
 I F III IIA II{ C OLOR A NTS r29
( l) Permanent colorants
(4) Lighteners or bleaches

CIIAPTRER-10 (l) TEMPORARY COLORANTS

Hair Colorants
Hair colorants, or hair dyes as they are popularly known, occupy a latge
market today. They are used either to hide gray hair or to change the
colour of the hair by individuals, either at home or at hairdressing
saloon. Colouring of hairs, eyebrows and eyelashes is not new and
practised from earliest antiquity but in crude form. A naturally occur-
ring colouring agent kohl, containing lead sulphide, was used by Egyptian
women to give a black colour to the hair, eyebrows and eyelashes'
Further, several other plants were also identified and used for colouring
of hair, eyebrows and eyelashes. Henna to obtain auburn tints, lysimachia
for i-mparting blond tint, corisson to dye the hair black, are notable
examples. Extract obtained by boiling ophouys, the eyebrow plant, in
oil was used to impart blackness to the hair. Over the time lot of
changes occurred and presently various types of dyes are available to
impart intended colour and shades.
An ideal hair dye should have the following characteristics:
(1) It should not be toxic to the skin or hair and should not impair
the natural gloss and texture of the hair.
(2) It should not be dermatitic sensitizer.
(3) The colour that it imparts to the hair must be stable to air, light,
water and shampoo.
I lrr':icrlyes or colorants impart colour to the hair for a short time.
f lrel irrc washedoff during the first shampoo. They offer the advantage
llrrrl tlrc rrscr is allowed to experiment. Early examples of temporary
r,lirrirrrlscan be the practiceof rinsing hair with either vinegaror lemon
lrrtrr nllcr shampooingwith soap. These were used before the develop-
nrerrtol'shampoo basedon synthetic detergents. Soap which remains on
the lririr lras a dulling effect and rinse was consideredto give effect as a
rcqult ol neutralizing the alkali. Same effect was obtained when rinsed
nltlr rr solrrtion of citric or tartaric acid. Present-daytemporary colorants
are l'*rscrlon this principle and consist of a mixture of a suitable dyestuff
rrttlr urr ircid either in powdersor in liquid forms.
I'or,y1ls1 products are simple mixture of dyestuff with citric acid or
l!illrilr( lrcid in a sachet or,,capsule. To use, the contents of the package
ta rltt,.olvod in about half a pint of warm water and the solution poured
rpr'irlttlly over the wet hair immediately after shampooing. Absorption
rrl rllestu{l'takes place from the solution on to the hair cuticle but no
grerrt'trirlior.r
to the cortex or medulla. The dye can easily be removedby
rlrirrrrpooirrg.Various shadescan be createdby this processlike blue,
1trrl, light golden or auburn shades.
I lrt'sc preparationsmay also be applied in a transparent polymeric
lrrrlr'tiltl as sprays. They may also be formulated with soaps,shampoos
llnrl \ryirxcsand used as crayons for temporary colouring. pH of the
,.llrrtionpreparationis adjustedat about 5.0.
POWDER

(4) Should be easy to apPlY. Formula I

Certifiedcolour 5.0 gm
The important factors to be considered while selecting a dye are its Tartaric acid 95.0gm
molecular size and its pH. The keratin lattice structure of hair does not
permit the penetration of molecules much larger than ethylene glycol. RINSE SOLUTION
At high pH, hair may swell and absorption may be enhanced. But it Formula2
may cause irreversible damage to hair. Most dyes are small molecules Acid dyestuff 6.0 gm
and thus penetrate hair easilY. Alcohol 10.0gm
These days hair colorants may be classified into following categories: Acetic acid (30%) 10.0gm
(l) Temporary colorants Water 74.0 gm
(2) Semi-permanentcolorants

128
130 A HANDBOOK OF COSME'II( ' r h l () IIA IRC OLORANTS 131

For m ula 3 A krw-water soluble dyestuff, like nitro-amino type, does not produce
Acid dyestuff 6.0 gm ,,,rtr,,lirctory colouring when applied in an ionic surface-activeagent. In
Alcohol 10.0gm ,,rr,lr ir cirse incorporation of 2-5%' of an alkylolamide will increasethe
Acetic acid 40.0 gm r-lllt I ol'dyestuff. Basic dyestuff can also colour the hair by absorption
Water 44.0 gm rlllrl wlrcn they are applied in a cation effective vehicle. In several
I rf\(':, :r rnixture of anionic andlor non-ionic surface active agents with a
CRAYON
rrrlronuctive dye is used to get a semi-permanentcolouring by forming
F o rmu l a4
Iililtlnclltion colour complexes.
Colour 6.0 gm
Stearic acid 14.0gm ('olour complexes can be formed by any of the following processes:
Triethanolamine 7.0 gm (rr) Mixing an anionic surfactant with a solution of basic dyestuff.
Glyceryl monostearate 4.0 gm
1lr) Mixing a cationic surfactant with a solution of a anionic dye-
Beeswax 42.0 gm
stuff.
Paraffin wax 9.0 gm
Microcrystalline wax 9.0 gm 1r') Mixing an anionic surfactant with a solution of a dyestuff con-
7.0 gm taining a cationic surface-activeagent.
Coconut diethanolamine
Perfume q.s. Norrnally these preparations are applied to dry hair after cleaning
In shampoo type preparations 0.5 to 2.0Yo of the dyestuff can lrc rvillr shampoo and kept for about 30 minutes to allow maximum absorp-
incorporated depending on the colour effect required. lhrrr ol'colour. The hair is finally rinsed with warm water, or with
if necessary,to remove excess colour. Some illustrative
',lrirrrrpoo,'
llrrrrrrllc are mentionedbelow.
(2) SEMr-PERMANENT COLORANTS
These colorants give a stronger coloration to the hairs and carr Formula5
withstand six to eight subsequentshampoosalthough some of the colotrr Quatemary ammonium compound 12.0 gm
is removed during each shampoo. These are made of dyes havirrl' Anionic surfactant 9.6 gm
smaller molecules which penetrate the hair easily. These are mort' Lactic acid 4.8 gm
preferred by the professional hairdresserand the home user as they arc Alkylolamide 12"0 gm
easy to apply and have less risk of damage to hair and skin in compari Dyestuff 1"2 gm
son to permanent dyeing process. Water 60.4 gm
These colorants are mainly based on basic dyestuffs of nitro-amirro l)issolve the dyestuff in a mixture of the alkylolamide and anionic
dyes. The most important nitro dyes are picramic acid (2,4-dinitro-6 'rurlrrt'c,abtive material. Separatelydissolve acid and quaternary ammo-
aminophenol) and 4-nitro-1-2-phenylenediamine. These dyes are usuallt rluru cornpound in the water and add gradually to the colour solution
red or yellow. Brown dyes are normally larger in size and do not rvl ri l csti rri ng.
penetrateeasily. Therefore, in order to get a brown shade,blue is mixetl
with red and yellow. Anthraquinones, e.g. 1,4-diamino anthraquinonc. Formula6
give blue colour and are sufTiciently small in size. To achieve thc Quaternary ammonium compound 12.0 gm
optimum dyeing effect of a particular dyestuff the following factors musl Nonyl phenol ethyleneoxide condensate 9.6 gm
be considered- Lactic acid 4.8 gm
(a) Water solubility Coconut diethanolamine 12.0 gm
(b) The composition of the vehicle or base Dyestuff 1.2 gm
(c) Effect of pH of the medium Water 60.4 em
(d) Effects of diluting solvents on the dye and basic composition

t*'
I32 A HANDBOOKoF COSMETICS r ft lil tlAll( ( ()I.ORANTS 133

Dissolve the dye in noryl phenol ethleneoxide condensateand coco- ll,-rrrrrrltirs no local or systemictoxicity and shows no sensitization'
nut diethanolamine. Dissolve lactic acid and quaternary ammonium ltE r,rl,rilr is dcpositedin the hair shaft unlike metallic dyes which coat
compound separately in water and add this slowly to the dye solution fhe lrrrrr',lr:rti. Its main disadvantagesare that it is messy, produces
with stirring. re,1lt,,lr.,lrirlcs and dyes the finger nails also. Apart from its use as dye,
frcl l rr rn;rvbc trsedi n r inses.
(3) PERMANENT COLORANT
HENNA RINSE
Permanent colorants are colouring preparations which are generally
Forrnula 7
accompaniedby a chemical process. Permanentcolorants can be used to
llenna leaves(coarselygrouncl) 10.00 gm
intensify the natural colour or completely change the hair colour. They
Alcohol 44.00 gm
can also be successfully used to give a shade near to the natural colour
Water 45.75gm
of the hair. These are also used to give a dramatic effect. Permanent
l'erfume 0.25 gm
colorants are either of vegetable origin or salts of heavy metals. But
most preferred or of commercial importance are the oxidation dyes based I lrr. lt.:rvcsare boiled in water and then the mixture is allowed to
on synthetic organic chemicals. =t4l,l l{}r lr lbw hours. It is strainedto remove the leaves and alcohol
arr,lgrcrl rrtttc are adde d.
Oxidation dyes such as p-phenylene diamine, p-tolulenediamine are
used as permanent dyes. They are first converted to quinine-diamine lrl,lrtiorr of pyrogallol and metallic salts may be used to produce a
which is colourless and small in size. These penetratethe hair and form rangc rrl t,olours with henna. But this may prove toxic if applied on
molecules of increasing size and colour. These polymers are very l r,,frn ,,ki tt,
difficult to remove and the dyes remain permanent.
LIGHT BROWN
These dyes also cause some toxicity to hair and skin. Toxicity of
FormulaI
such dyes is due to the p-phenylenediamine and not due to any inter-
Henna powder 90.0 gm
mediates. Patch test should be done on small area of skin before every
Pyrogallol 5.0 gm
application.
Copper sulphate 5.0 gm
Phenols such as resorcinol, pyrogallol may be used to modify the
shades. The main ingredients of a formulation will be of-- DARK BROWN
(a) Base : Solution, emulsion, gel, powder, shampoo. Formula9
(b) Dy": Oxidation base Henna powder 83.0gm
Pyrogallol 10.0gm
(c) Alkali: Ammonia 7.0 gm
Copper sulphate
(d) Antioxidanls : Ammonium thioglycolate
BLACK
(l) Vegetable Dyes
For m ulal0
The most important vegetable dye is 'Henna'. It contains dried Hennapowder 73.0 gm
powdered leaves of Lawsonia alba, Lawsonia spinosa and Lawsonia Pyrogallol 15.0gm
inemis. Coppersulphate 12.0 gm
Lawsone (2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthaquinone,the main ingredient) is solu-
ble in hot water and in a pH of 5.5 acts as an effective dye. The CAMOMILE
powdered henna is made into a paste with hot water, suitably acidified llris consists of the flowers of Anthemis nobilis and Matricania
and applied on the head. It is kept for the required amount of time" ,lr,rlrorrrillae. The active ingredient is 1'3,4-trihydroxyflavone or
aagrr;4t'nirr.The flower heads are applied in the form of a paste in hot
 134 A HANDBOoK
oF cosMur.t(: I h t0 ilAil( Cot_oRANTS 135
water along with kaolin. It may also be used as hair brightening rins.',, Formula 14
A typical formula is- A" Bismuth citrate 50.0gm
Water 50.0 gm
Formula I I
Camomile flowers 10.00gm lI Sodium thiosulphate 6.0 gm
Alcohol 44.00gm Water 94.0 gm
Water 45.75gm Ammonium hydroxide q.s.
Perfume 0.25 gm
lr') Silver dyes: The hair is firsttreated with an aqueousammonia-
F o rm u l a1 2 r',rl',,rlrrli.rrof silver nitrate. After a short while, a solution of pyrogallol
Powdered henna leaves 18.200gm ta rr;,|'lrt'tl 'fhe proportion of silver may be reducedfor lighter shades.
Powdered camomile flowers 5.820gm black colour is produced"which stainsskin too.
'{ F,r,','rrislr
Pyrogallic acid 0.150gm
For m ulalS
Citric acid 0.073gm
S ol uti on 1
Alcohol 2.200 gm
Silver nitrate 5.0 gm
Glycerine 0.730gm
Ammonium nitrate 3.0 gm
Water 78.827gm
Water To 100.0gm
(2) Metallic Hair Dyes Ammonium hydroxide q.s.
Colours caused by metallic compounds such as lead acetateare either S ol uti on2
due to sulphides formed by sulphur in the keratin or due to metallic Pyrogallol 4.0 gm
oxide formed by reduction. The hair shaft is coated with a dull, metallic Alcohol 46.0 gm
sheen, leaving the hair brittle. The main compounds used for thir; Water 50.0gm
purpose are lead acetate, bismuth citrate, silver nitrate. \irlts ol'copper,nickel and cobalt may be a,ldedto modifo the colour.
(a) Lead dyes : Lead dyes are generally based on solutions of leacl
Formula 16
acetateand it is considered that the reducing action of keratin forms thc
Lead acetate 0.5 gm
insoluble lead salts. The coloration processis slow and gives an illusion
Sodium thiosulphate 1.5 gm
of restoring of natural colour. The rate of colouring is dependent on
Glycerine 8.0 gm
concentration of lead and influenced by air and light.
Alcohol 10.0grn
Lead acetate is normally used in combination with precipitated sul- Water 80.0gm
phur or sodium thiosulphate. Perfume q.s.
Formula 13 Formula 17
Precipitatedsulphur 1.3 gm Lead acetate 0.6 gm
Lead acetate 1.6gm Sodium thiosuiphate 1.2 gm
Glycerine 9.6 gm Propylene glycol 10.0gm
Water 87.5 gm Water 88.2 gm
The shadesproduced depend on the concentrationof lead useil" It is
relatively non-toxic. Formula 18
Precipitatedsulphur 2.0 gm
(b) Bismuth dyes : They also produce a range of colours from Lead sulphatc 1.0 gm
blond to dark chestnut. Propylene glyc"oi 10.0gm

't
136 A TIANDBOOKOF COSMETI( :
Alcohol 10.0gm
Water 77.0 gm
Oxidation Hair Colorants
These are the most important group of permanent dyes but slowlr
have been replaced by semi-permanentdyes. The oxidation dyes ar,
based on synthetic organic chemicals like paraphenylenediamineatrtl
paratolulenediamine. The principle of dyeing is to add necessaryoxiclr
tion end product, an azine dye, which reacts with keratin to forrrl
insoluble azine derivatives and consequently gives a permanent cololl
tion. To improve the stability of the dye to the effect of light and werl
and to obtain certain specific colours some other materials are used lr,
modifiers along with the main dyestuff. They are resorcinol, pyrocat('
chol, chlorohydroquinone, pyrogallic acid, diamino-anisidine, etc.
(4) LTGHTENERS OR BLEACHES
Lightenersor bleachesare also discussedhere as they alter the colorrr
of the hair. These preparations can also be termed as decolourinl'
preparations becausethey lighten or remove the natural colour.
The colour of the hair is due to the melanin which is produced in tlrc
living cells of matrix of the follicle and then distributed in the del,l
keratinized cortex and cuticle. So, the bleaching processis modification
or lightening by destruction of the melanin by some chemical reactions
Though metallic and oxidation dyes or camomile extract may lightcrr
dark hair, but strong bleaching effect is not possible by using thcst'
substances. This can be done by treating with oxidizing agents likc
alkaline hydrogen peroxide, permanganatesolutions etc. After bleachinli
normally the hair is rinsed with blue solution to give it a better appeal
ance.
The bleaching effect is produced by the oxidation effect of tlr,'
oxygen releasedby the action of alkali on the oxidizing agent hydrogcrr
peroxide. During this oxidation sulphur linkages of the hair get darn
aged. Extent of damage is dependenton the time of exposure of the hair
to t he bleac hinga g e n t.
As temporary colouring of hair is also in demand, this is donc
pref,erablyafter bleaching the hair and making the colour light, so thrrl
any shadesof colour can be imparted easily. Dyes. particularly lightur
shade, can be applied better on bleached hair than darker hair. Cat','
should be taken not to damase the hair shaft while treatine with alkll,
*l
r fl l0 ll^tR COLORANTS 137
rnlrrtiorr. As some substancesof hair are soluble in alkali, treatment
r+rtlrrrlkali for longer time makes the hair soft and gelatinous when wbt
rrrrrlrrrrkcs the combing difficult. To prevent damage to the hair several
rrrrrht'rs suggested addition of additives, like proteins, which can be
rrrr.rlrorirtcdinto the bleachingpreparationsor pretreatedbefore bleach-
Itty
Mrl cri l l s
llrotrgh permanganatesolution is recommended for bleaching pur-
1,,,'.('l)ul application of it can cause serious damage to the hair if any
rrrr'.trrkc is made in application. Alkaline hydrogenperoxide solution is
fn"rc l)rcl'crred. For domestic use 3-4Yoperoxide solution is suggested
lrut lol professional application 5-60losolution can be used for faster
lrlt'rrr'lring"Further higher concentrationscan damage the hair. Nor-
lrrrllv suitable stabilizing agents, such as acetanilide, diluted acids,
rilililil)ilir.trIbisulphate are incorporated in hydrogen peroxide solution to
'itrrlrrlizcit. As presenceof various metals causesdamage to the hair,
r.rlrc$lcring agent EDTA may also be added to the preparation. Choles-
lrrol. lurrolin derivatives, fatty alcohols or other hair conditioning
sulr.,tlrrrccs are incorporatedin the hydrogenperoxide solution to have a
hetterappearanceofthe hair.
llclirre application, ammonia is added for faster degradation of per-
,rrr,lc irnd better bleaching effect. This also softens the hair. As
hair never regains colour, so in subsequentbleaching only
lrl,'rrr'lrr:d
frr'.,lrlygrown hair is requiredto be bleached.
I lrc: products are marketed in powder, paste, and solution forms.
|orvtlcl preparationscontain inert materials such as kaolin, magnesium
r irrlrorralcmixed with peroxide and ammonia to achieve better control in
tlrr',rpplicationto the hair. Also there are substanceswhich when mixed
I'r,'vitlc arnmoniaand active oxygen. Mixture of magnesiumperoxide
runrlsoclium perborate is such an example. Sodium perborate, sodium
|','rrrxidcwhen mixed with water producealkaline hydrogenperoxide.
Formula 19
Ammonium bicarbonate 20.0 gm
Ammonium bisulphate 10.0gm
Light magnesium carbonate 50.0gm
Lisht calcinm carbonate 20.0 grn
llris powder mixture is to be mixed with hydrogen peroxide solution
l rr' l orcuse.
138 A T]ANDBOOKOF COSMETICSJ
I h lll l l ^l l { C OLOR A N TS 139
Formula20
l)r:rPcrscthe carbopol in the peroxide with vigorous stirring. Allow
Ammonium persulphate 20.0 gm
trr 51,,''.1lirr 20 minutes. Then add solution of triethanol amine and
Ammonium bicarbonate 3.0 gm
arl l rri l1rlI to 5.5.
Ammonlum bisulphate 3.0 gm
Sodium perborate monohydrate 2.5 gm Formula24
Calcium carbonate (light) 20.0 gm Hydrogen peroxide solution 80.0 gm
Magnesium silicate 51.5gm Stearyl dimethyl benzyl
ammonium chloride 1.0 gm
Formula2tr Water 19.0gm
Ammonium persulphate 20.0 gm pH to be adjusted to 5.5
Sodium percarbonate 20.0 gm
l)r,isolvethe secondcomponentin water. Then add hydrogenperox-
Ammonium bicarbonate 3.0 gm
2.5 gm Irl erol rrti orrsl ow l y. Adjust pH t o 5. 5.
Sodium perborate monohydrate
Magnesium carbonate (light) 54.5gm It* l r' l )yc R emovers
The preparations are prepared by rnixing all the ingredients except llr'rrglr permanenthair dye is applied to have a stablecorour which
oxidizing agent, sodium perborate monohydrate, which is mixed slowly *tll lrc dilt'icult to remove, but sometimes users may want really to
with base afterward. The products are to be mixed rvith water before rFrirrvuil lbr various reasonsor to have a lighter shade. one method of
use. rlr'\'ul c:anbe using hot vegetableoil. First vegetableoil is applied to
],rr n lllL.hair properly. Then the strandsof hair are passedthrough a
Liquids and Paste Bleaches Ir*rrt,'rlir.n marcel or comb and then rubbed with towel. vegetable
Normally these preparations are marketed in two containers one Frtrrrrt tlycs and lead dyes can be easily rernoved by this technique.
containing stabilized hydrogen peroxide solution and the other the acti- trtlrer .rll<lur and copper colour are very difficuit to remove
by this
vator. Before trse they are mixed in one part of activator and 4 parts of nrellrrrl. Oxidation dyes cannot be removedby this.
hydrogen peroxide solution and applied.
l'rkcy red oil can be used to remove dyes and is also advantageous
Formula22(i) ea !ililrl'other additivescan also be incorporatedto help in removal of
Oleic acid 45.4gm r ul l l l l

Alcohol 18.3gm t lrcrrical reagentscan also be used as artificial dyes. Metalric dyes
Ammonium hydroxide solution 22.7 gm rr rrrrllcrrrovedby chemical relgents as it may causea violent produc-
Triethanolamine 13.6gm lhrrr.l lrcat which may damagehair and scalp. oxidation dyes can be
Perfume .,'q.s. rrrrr,vt'tl hy treating rvith reducing agents such as sodium hydrosulphite,
= ' ,,l rrrr l i rrmal dehyde sulphoxylat e, sodium t hiosulphat e, sodiunr
Formula22(ii) rlllhr'rrrrlcsolutions. These are used at 5oloconcentration. Flydrogen
In hydrogen peroxide solution for preparation (i) dissolve the per- rrrrrrrrrlcsolutionsin 5-6vo strengthcan be useful for lighter shadesof
fume in alcohol and add oleic acid. N{ix thoroughly. Add ammonium rrrirlllr.rr dyes but not for dark shades. Most of these substancesare
hydroxide solution slowly with continuous stirring. Finally add trieth- r 'E,l ur ;rcidicsolution but sodium forrnaldehydesulphoxylateis used as
anolamine. ,r' -rrL l ! rrrrrrnoni acsolut
al ion.
llrc lirllowing formula is a representativepreparationand can be
l'ormula 23
rr-' ,,ll o l cnrovesi l ve r colour s.
A. Carbopol 9-lzl 2.CIgm
Hydrogen peroxide solution (acid stabilized) 88.0 grn Sodiurn thiosulphate 5.0 grn
Sulphuricaciri 2.0 gn^,
B. Triethanolsamine solution (109/oin rvater) 10.0 grn
Water 93.0 gm

E-*
140 A HANDBOOKOF COSMETI('S

Evaluation
As hair colorantscan causesensitization of skin or can producetoxit
effects, it is imperativeto do testsfor this apart from normal quality test
for ingredientsand their quantity.
(l) Sensitizationtest : This can be done on the animal skin by
applyingdyestuffor the preparationand observingthe effecton the skin.
lf necessary,
histopathologicalstudycan be doneof the relatedtissuesor
cells when applied.
to evaluatethc
(2) Long-term toxic effect : This is also necessary
long-termeffect. This can also be doneon animal.
CHAPTER-11
Hair GroomingAids
llnir is an important componentof overall appearanceof a person
rvlrcthcra man or woman. Howeverclean or well-dressedthe person
nrrry be, untidy hair will give a messyoverall impression. So, hair
groorningaids are importantgroup of cosmeticsand are usedby both
rrrcrrand women to keep the hair in order for good looking and also to
t rrlrunceoverallappearance.Settingor controlof hair is moreimportant
l() lrany men than the glossyhair. Men'sproductsare mainly basedon
rrrt: of oils, fatty materialsor resins. Women'semphasisis on both
rcrprirements.
Variousproductsare marketedas hair grooming aids. They include
lrrilliantines,hair oils, hair creams,hair dressings,hair lacquersor
iprlys. hair lotions. Their compositions
vary but basicallythey are used
krr settingof hair and improvethe appearance.They can be all called as
preparations.
rler:rlrative
Somehair grooming aids are very similar to emollient preparations
nnd producenatural appearanceand gloss by compensatingthe loss of
wnlcr and fat in the hair shaft. Other preparationsadditionally contain
lix"'r,biologicalsubstancesthat affectthe hair papillae,antisepticagents.
I'rcparations suchas settinglotionssoftenthe hair and fix it in position
rrs il is dressed. Many of the commercialproductshave multiple
lrrrtr:tions.
Various hpir grooming aids which are discussedin this chapterare
r,ntegorized
accordingto their compositions.
(l) Brilliantinesand hair oil
(2) Hair setting lotions
(3) Hair creams
(4) Hair lacquersor sprays

l4l
142 A HANDBOOKOF COSMETICS t h || l l ^l l tC ;R OOMI N GA ID S 143
(1) BRILLIANTINES AND HAIR OILS Formula 2
These products are mainly based on wax and oils. Depending on thc Carnauba wax 5.0 gm
consistency they may be classified into the following products- Wheat germ oil 20.0 gm
(a) Hard : Stick brilliantine Petroleumjelly 70.0 gm
(b) Soft : Brilliantine Paraffin wax 5.0 gm
(c) Liquid: Hair oils, liquid brilliantine Perfume q.s.
Colour q.s.
These preparationscompletely adhere to the hair surface and hold the
Preservative q.s.
hair in position and make them lustrous. The oily or waxy matenals,
which are used, make the hairs tacky and surroundings of one hair l\4clt lhe waxes at about 70oC and add oil and jelly. Mix thoroughly.
adhere with that of other hairs and keep the hair down by increased Arl,l cokrur, perfume and preservativeafter cooling.
weight of adhering materials. They can also act by covering the hair by
BRILLIANTINE
thin layer and thus neutralizing the electrostatic charges generated on
hair by shampooing and/or combing which makes a repulsion among Formula 3
Isopropyl myristate 24.0 gm
hairs and makes them look ruffled. More viscous the preparation, the
Lanolin 1.0 gm
fixative effect will be more. However, too tacky preparationswill also
Mineral oil 55.0gm
attract dirt and dust. Thus the preparationsshould be just tacky enough
Sunflower oil 20.0 gm
to hold the hairs.
Perfume q.s.
Substanceswhich are used to get tackinessare petrolatum,beesw.ar, Colour q.s.
animal fats, castor oil, coconut oil, high viscosity rnineraloils. Incclrpo- Antioxidant q.s.
ration of paraffin waxes, spermaceti,low-viscosity mineral oils, isopropyi Preservative q.s.
myristate lowers the tackiness.
Ir4clt all oils and waxes together at 70oC and mix well. Add
Originally preparationscontaining mineral oils and wuxes were termed lrrnrc,colour, preservative,antioxidant after cooling.
1rr.r
brilliantine and those with animal and vegetable fats were called as
pomeds. This differentiation is no more used presently. IIAIR OILS
Application of the oily material should be in thin layer and of even Formula4
nature to get the glossiness. Suitable oil soluble perfume should be Mineral oil 85.0gm
added. Preservativesand antioxidants are also required to incorporate, Isopropyl myristate 15.0gm
particularly in preparationscontaining vegetable nr animal oils. Colour Perfume q.s.
can also be added optionally. Preservative q.s.
'I'irke isopropyl myristate
and mineral oil together and mix perfume.
SOLID BRILLIANTINE Arltl preservativeand f,rlter.
F'ormula I
Petroleumjelly 90.0 gm Fo r m u l a .5
Paraffin wax 10.0gm Mineral oil 75.0gm
Perfume q.s. Acetoglyceride 10.0gm
Preservative q.s. Isopropyl myristate 15.0gm
Perfume q.s.
Melt the wax. Add ielly and mix it at about 70"C. Add perfume and
Preservative q.s.
preseruativeafter cooling.
Mix all the ingredients together. Add perfumeand preservative
and
l i l tcr.
 t lr ll AIDS
tlAlR GROOMING 145
t44 A IIANDBOOKOF COSMETICS
Fulycthylene glycol or its monofatty acid estersare also incorporated to
SPIRIT BRILI,IANTINE lrrrpnd lustre and hold the hair in place.
F o rmu l a6
Isopropylmyristate 20.0 gm HATR SETTING LOTIONS
Cetyl alcohol 2.0 gm Formula7
Toilet spirit 78.0 gm Tragacanth 1.2 gm
Perfume q.s. Alcohol 10.0gm
Preservative q.s. Glycerine 5.0 gm
Colour q.s. Water 83.8gm
Perfume q.s.
Mix isopropylmyristate,cetyl alcoholand toilet spirit together. Add
Colour q.s.
perfume,colour and preservative.
Preservative q.s.

(2) HAIR SETTING LOTIONS l)issolve preservative in glycerine. Mix tragacanth in the glycerine
rrrrrltlrcrr add water. Add glycerine and mix it properly. Add colour and
For a long time hair settinglotionsare in usp. Theseproductscan be perlirrrrc.
gum based,resin basedor can be purely alcoholbasedlotions.
Gum mucilage-basedlotions partly have been replacedby resin Formula8
lotions. Theseproducts,after application,dry to form invisiblecontinu- Tragacanth 1.5 gm
ous elastic film that keepsthe hair firmly positioned. They do not Glycerine 5.0 gm
contain,normally,hair conditioners,nor do they impart gloss,but they Watersolublelanolin 2.0 gm
are excellentfixers of hairs. Cholesterol 0.1 gm
Water 91.4 gm
Productsof early stagesmainly containedgum mucilage,alcoholand q.s.
Perfume
alkali. The alkali renderedthe hair shaftsoft to help in setting. Alcohol q.s.
Preservative
is used to help in quick drying. There are several gums in use' q.s.
Colour
Tragacanth,karaya,alginate,pectin are most popularones. Acacia is
comparativelylesspopular. l)issolve the preservative in glycerine. Add cholesterol and traga-
r ililltt to prepare a smooth paste. Mix water, water-soluble lanolin and
Presentlysyntheticpolymersor resinsare also used and polyvinyl with
pyrrolidone,polyvinyl alcohol, polyethyleneglycols, dimethyl hydan- lrrrlrrrnc separately. Add this mixture to the tragacanth mixture
vigorousstining.
toin-formaldehyde, resinare good as hair fixers. Castoroil and mineral
oils are incorporatedas plasticizersto makethe film elastic. Also water- Formula9
solubleor water-dispersiblelanolin derivativesare usefulfor this purpose. Polyvinyl pyrrolidone 2.00 gm
Humectants,like gtycerol,sorbitol,help the film not to becometoo dry Carboxy vinyl polymer 0.60 gm
and brittle. The productsare norrnally colouredand perfumedand also Triethanolamine 0.75 gm
need preservativesas mucilageor resinsare favourablefor microbial Alcohol 10.00gm
growth. Water 86.65gm
Someproductsare purely alcohol-based and basicallyalcoholicsolu- Perfume q.s.
tion of perfume oil and can be coloured. But they are not very good to Preservative q.s.
hold or fix the hair. Sometimessomeother additivesare incorporatedin l)issolve polyvinyl pynolidone and preservativein alcohol' Disperse
thesepreparations. They are tincture ofcapsicum and tincture ofarnica tlre polyrner in triethanolamine and then add water gradually with stir-
to enhance stimulating effect and antiseptic substanceslike rlrrg. Add the alcohol solution and perfume, mix properly.
hexachlorophene, o-phenylphenol,quatemaryammoniumcompoundsetc.
 146 A HANDBOOKOF COSMETICS ( lr ll llAlR GROOMING
AIDS 147
Formula10 lrrrir. Appearanceof hair is better than in case of brilliantine. These
Polyvinyl pyrrolidone: Vinyl acetate ( rriuns are preparedby using calcium salts of fatty acids which produces
copolymer(60:40) 1.00gm rv/o type emulsion. Also non-ionic surfactantslike spans can also be
Isopropylmyristate 0.15 gm rnr:d to make w/o type creams. Other emulsifuing agents can be used
Alcohol 70.00gm wool alcohols, lanolin derivatives. These preparationsare not much
Water 29.35gm 'rre
slublc. They can get separatedeasily, particularly with increasedtem-
Perfume q.s. pcrillure. But stability of creamsmade by using non-ionic surfactantsis
Dissolvethe copolymerin the alcoholwith stining. Add the isopro- lrcltcr. As, normally, the oil content is high in these creams they soil
pyl myristate and perfume. Then slowly add the water with constanl r |rllrcs and are greasy in use. But when some specific non-ionic
stirring. srrrlirctants are used the washing may become easier as washing with
wnlcr converts the cream from ilo to o/w and is easily removed. The
F o rmu l a1 l :lrrbility of the productsis influencedby-
Dimethyl hydantoin-formaldehyderesin 2.0 gm (a) Specific gravity of oil
Alcohol 70.0 gm (b) Proportion of oil and water
Isopropyl alcohol 5.0 gm (c) Method of manufacturing
Diethyl phthalate 1.0 gm
Glycerine Normally 0.14% concentrationof calcium hydroxide can be used.
0.5 gm
Water llrwcver, when higher concentrationis requiredthe solubility of calcium
21.5 sm
Perfume lryrlroxide can be increased by incorporating saccharine and forming
q.s.
Dye rirltium saccharate. Beeswax-boraxcombinationcan also be used for
q.s
rrrnkirrgthese creams. These creams can be stabilized by incorporating
Dissolve the resin in alcohol with stirring. Add the isopropyl alcohol
rirrc stearate. Viscosity can be increasedby incorporating cetyl alcohol.
and diethyl phthalate. Add the perfume. Then add glycerine and water
with stirring. Oil-in-water type creams are less greasy and when applied make the
lrair wctty as water is continuous phase. When water gets evapoqatedthe
Formula 12 t'il cornes in contact with hair. They can be easily diluted with water
Isopropylpalmitate 6.0 gm rn(l can be well distributed on hair by wet comb. These preparationscan
Tween20 3.0 gm I'r'trradewith very less amount of oil. Stearic acid and beeswaxare used
O-phenylphenol 0.1 gm nr erttulsi$ing agent. But these creams make the hair dull as water is
Alcohol (95%) 49.9 gm rol1lil1uestphase and oil is a dispersedphase. But fixative property is
Water 41.0 gm good. These creams also contain humectant to prevent fast drying of
Perfume q.s. wrrlcr. Glossy effect appears only after evaporation of water. Oil-in-
Colour q.s. rvnlcr creams can also be made by triethanolamine stearate, glyceryl
rrrorrostearate,etc. In all these creams perfumes, colours and preserva-
Itvcs are also incorporated.
(3) HArR CREAMS
Hair creams can be either water-in-oil or oil-in-water type. Water-in- WATER-IN-OIL TYPE CREAMS
oil type creams have more holding capacity than the latter and provide
Formula 13
better gloss to the hair. Beeswax 3.5 gm
Water-in-oil type creams impart nearly similar effect as anhydrous Mineral oil 37.5 gm
products like brilliantine. Presenceof ilo emulsifoing agents helps in Paraflin wax 1.0 gm
stabilizing emulsion as well as proper distribution of oil phase to the Lime water (fresh) 58.0 gm

t _.f.
148 A H,ANDBOOKOF COSMETICS 149
I h II t]AIR CROOMINGAIDS
Perfume q.s. Formulal7
Preservative q.s. Mineraloil 35.5gm
Melt beeswax,mineral oil and paraffin wax together, but adding Stearicacid 2.5 gm
graduallyin increasingmelting point, at about 70"C. Warm the lime Glyceryl monostearate 2.0 gm
water and add slowly to the oil phasewith continuousstirring. Cool Propyleneglycol 4.5 gm
while stirring and add perfumewhen temperatureis about 35oC. Triethanolamine 1.0gm
Water 54.5 gm
Formula14 Perfume q.s.
Beeswax 4.0 gm Preservative q.s.
Mineral oil 37.5 gm
llcnt stearic acid and mineral oil togetherat about 70"C' Mix
Petroleumjelly 5.0 gm
glyrcryl monostearate, propyleneglycol (with dissolvedpreservative),
Zinc stearate 2.0 gm
trietlurrrolamineand water and heat it to same70oC and mix with first
Lime water (fresh) 51.5gm
ilrre with continuousstining. Cool slowly and add perfumewhen the
Perfume q.s.
tFrul)eratureis at about40"C.
Preservative q.s
Formulalt
Formula15 25.0 gm
Lanolin
Beeswax 4.0 gm 1.0 gm
Cetyl alcohol
Mineral oil 32.5 gm 9.0 gm
Glyceryl monostearate
Petroleumjelly 2.5 gm gm
Water 62.0
Sorbitansesquioleate 2.0 gm 3.0 gm
Glycerine
Borax 0.5 gm q.s.
Perfume
Water 58.5 gm q.s.
Preservative
Perfume q.s
Preservative q.s. lleut lanolin and cetyl alcoholat 70oC. Take glyceryl monostearate
Melt hrst three componentsat about 70oC and add borax and sorb- lrrtl waterand alsoheatto 70"C. Add the aqueousmixture with lanolin
witlr continuousstirring. Cool and add perfume. Preservativecan be
itan sesquioleateand mix properly. Mix borax with water, heat it and
rlirrolvedin glyoerineand mix to the preparedcream.
add slowly with continuousstirring. Cool while stirring and add per-
fume when cooledto 40"C.
(4) HAIR LACQUERS OR SPRAYS
OIL-IN-WATER CREAM
llair tacquersor sprays are used to hold the hair setting firmly,
Formula 16 rlar:inlly in women,in shapeand control the looseendswithout disturb-
Mineral oil 45.0 gm lirg the good appearance. These products make the hair dry very
Stearicacid 3.5 gm rlrrickly. As lotions have water and leave the hair damp, lacquersor
Triethanolamine 1.5 gm rPruys have advantageover them due to their quick drying. Initial
Water 50.0 gm ;rroductswere not much good and over the years a good amount
of
Perfume q.s. t.lrangehas occuned. Some lacquers are nearly same as gum-based
Preservative q.s. appear-
;rreparationsas film forming substancesare also present. The
Heat mineral oil, stearic acid at about 70oC and add triethanolamine. ltco, use and
characteristics, choice of perfumesmake them a different
Add water while stirring. Cool and add perfume. product. They mainly contain a film former in a suitable vehicle and
rlong with a plasticizeror modifier.
 150 A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS r h ll AIDS
IIAIRGROOMING l5l

The basiccompositionis:- Formula20

(a) Film former Dimethyl hydantoin formaldehyde resin 5.0 gm
(b) Plasticizeror modifier Shellac (25% solution in isopropyl alcohol) 0.5 gm
(c) Vehicle or solvent Silicone fluid 0.1 gm
(d) Perfume Isopropyl myristate 0.4 gm
In very early period shellacwas usedas film former which contains Alcohol 94.0 gm
957.io of resinoussubstances Perfume q.s.
like alevritic,shellolic.kenolic and butolic
acids. Shellac is insolublein water but soluble in alcohol, isopropyl I'rcpzrreby sirnple solution techniques.
alcohol and in alkali media. Though betterfilm formersare available,
still someprofessionalhairdressers useshellac-based sprays.Otherearly Formula21
film formers were benzoin,styrax. Afterward polyvinyl pyrrolidonehas (60:a0)
Polyvinyl pyrrolidone/Vinylacetate 2.50 gm
been found very good. But as it is hygroscopic,slowly water droplets Dimethylphthalate 0.25 gm
precipitateon hair and make it dull and unattractive. To overcomethis Alcohol 50.00 grn
problem shellac, lanolin, natural rosin lanopals can be incorporated Water 47.25 gm
along with polyvinyl pyrrolidone. Incorporationof siliconesalso gives Perfume q.s.
betterfeeling,longerdurationof holding and betterappearance.
Formula22
Polyvinyl pynolidone can be replacedby other polymerslike ethyl Shellac 4.0 gm
cellulose,dimethylhydantoin-formaldehyde polymer,copolymerof poly- Castor oil 0.2 gm
vinyl pyrrolidoneand vinyl acetate Diethyl phthalate 0.2 gm
As most of thesepolymersare solublein alcohol,it is mainly usedas Alcohol 95.6 gm
solvent or vehicle. When the polymer has some solubility in water, Perfume q.s.
partially water can be usedas solventalong with alcohol. Alcohol has By simple solution process.
added advantageof quick evaporationand drying. Drying rate is an
important factor for sprays. l " r' nl unti on

Plasticizeror modifier is requiredto have elasticfilm coveringthe Apart from identification of the ingredients and their quantity a few
hair. For this castoroil, lanolin derivatives,diethyl phthalate,propylene rrllrcrlcsts are to be carriedout:
glycol monolaurate,etc. are used. ( l) Stabilif of the ingredients : This is done by normal stability
Selectionof suitableperfumeis very important. Perfumeshouldbe etrrrly ol'the active ingredients at room temperature or by accelerated
ql nl ri l ' i l ystudy.
stableand long acting. Preservativeis not normallyrequiredas alcohol
concentrationis very high. The productsare marketedin containerwith (2) l'hysical stability : This is particularly important for emulsion
spraysystemor as aerosols. r\llr, l)roparationsto evaluate the stability of the emulsion creams' This
r dn l)c done by accelerated test by exposing the preparations alter-
Formula 19 rtrlrvcly to heat and cold.
Polyvinyl pyrrolidone 2.50 gm (.!) llheology : This can be studied by using suitable equipment
Dimethyl phthalate 2.00 gm
Ir'r:ic()rneter)to rneasurethe viscosity and effect of storage on it'
Silicon 0.05 gm
Alcohol 95"45gm
Perfume q.s.
Preparation can be made by simple solution techniques.
 r h ll AND STRAIGHTENERS
IIAIRWAMRS. CURLERS 153

Itlrthods snd Preparations for Waving

Virrious methods and preparations are used to achieve waving of
CHAPTER-12 lrnirr, 'l'hey are discussedbelow:
( | ) Wave set preparations : At room temperature or with moderate
lrcnlirrp,.,water can break hydrogen bond and salt linkages but not
Hair Wavers,Curlers rli,rrrlphidebridges. This can produce limited swelling and softening of
and Straighteners llrc lrrrirs. This helps to arrangethe hair-setting as desired and the setting
tr rrr'lricvedby quick evaporation of water by some means. The waves
grrr'Pirrcd by this technique are not long-lasting as amide and disulphide
Irlhugcs are undisruptedand the new hydrogen bond and salt bridges are
It is a natural desire for all, specially women, to have a beautiful antl
qtorr lt)gsenedby moisture from atmosphere and perspiration and the
attractive curly or wavy hair. It is well known that a method ol
,reilirrgis disrupted. The setting life can be enhanced by incorporating
permanent hair waving was practised by early Egyptian women. Thc
rrrrrcirrsin setting lotions, such as pectin, carrageen,alginate, tragacanth,
method was used to be winding a mesh on a cane stick, covering it with
hnrrryaltum or synthetic film former which form a thin film surrounding
liquid mud and allorving it to bake dry in the sun. Over the years thc
tlr(. lruir after the preparation is applied and dried. The mechanical
method has been modified to make the curling long-lasting, better anrl
retristirnceof the film keeps the hair for some time in the new arrange-
faster. As, always, the curling hair is more attractive than straight hair
rrrr'rrr, l:'ormulaeof a few such preparationsare mentioned below:
and also can be arranged in further attractive styles. There is a demantl
for techniques or methods for making hair curling or waving. To makr' Formula I
wigs of permanent curly hair, wig-makers used to wound hair on u Apple pectin 1.0 gm
curling rod and immersed it in boiling water or steam for a few hours. Il Citric acid 0.5 Gm
borax or mild alkali was added to the hot water the time of immersiorr Rose water 98.5 gm
could be less. Early workers who pioneered in this area are Charles Perfume q.s.
Nessler, E. Fredric and Eugene Suter who suggestedchemicals to add in Preservative q.s.
boiling water to achieve curly hair.
l)issolve preservative and citric acid in water at high temperature.
Principle of Action Arkl the pectin and stir vigorously to dissolve the pectin completely.
The structure of cortex gives the hair the definite form and it, mainly. Arld perfume finally.
consists of long parallel polypeptide chains connectedby cross linkages
Formula2
The chains are, normally, folded and in dry condition it cannot bc
Sodiumcarbonate,anhydrous 3.0 gm
stretched much. But, in wet condition they can be stretched up to l00ol, 6.0 gm
Alginic acid
or even more. Permanentwaving consists of the following stages.
Rosewater 91.0 Gm
(1) Differential stretching of the hair : Hair is thoroughly wetted. Perfume q.s.
then rolled and the polypeptide chains are extended with variable forcc Preservative q.s.
and thus a tension is created on linkages.
liirst dissolvepreservativeand sodiumcarbonatein rosewater. Add
(2) Disruption of the cross-linkages : Most of the cross-linkages nlg,irricacid with continuousstining to dissolveit completely'
are broken chemically and the tension is thus relaxed.
(2) Hot wave preparations : As it is mentionedearlier,primitive
(3) Re-establishment of cross-linkage : Then the cross-linkagesart:
lrot wavingmethodwas utilizedby Egyptianwomenby winding a mesh
restored in such a way that the hair is no longer trained in its new rolled
ol'hair over a stick and coveringit with liquid rnud and drying it in sun.
form by drying or cooling of the hair or by removing all chemicals.

t52
 I lr l/ llAlR WAIVERS.CURLERSAND STRAIGHTENERS 155
154 A IIANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
PERMANENT WAVING SOLUTIONS
over the years the method has been changed and chemical agents are
being utilized in place of mud. But the basic principle remains the Formula 3
same. Wet hair can be stretched to 100%oor more and soft hair, made by Ammoniumhydroxide 20.0 gm
chemical treatment, can be waved permanently. In these preparations, Sodiumcarbonate 4.0 gm
the main ingredient is water which vaporizes when the hair is heated. Potassiumsulphite 2.0 gm
Water 74.0 gm
As mentioned in the earlier preparationswater can disrupt the hydro-
Perfume q.s.
gen bond and salt linkages but is unable to disrupt disulphide or amide
linkages, some chemical agents are incorporated in hot-wave prepara- l'repare by simple gradual mixing and making solution.
tions to achieve the disruption of the latter. Bases such as sodium and
Formula4
potassium hydroxides and carbonates as well as borax were preferred
Ammonium carbonate 0.25gm
earlier. But they have the problem that they fuse with hair and form a
Sodium carbonate 0.45 gm
hard and brittle cuticle with keratin. So, they were replaced by ammonia
Borax 2.65 gm
which evaporates while drying and leaves no residue. But ammonia
Water 90.65gm
imparts an unpleasant odour and mostly evaporates before complete
Perfume q.s.
swelling and gives the hair a reddish tint. Then ammonia was combined
or completely replaced with less volatile bases like mono/or trieth- l)repareby gradual mixing and solution.
anolamine,or morpholine.
Formula5
Sodium or potassium sulphites or bisutrphitesare being incorporated Monoethanolamrne 3.0 gm
in permanent waving preparations to disrupt disulphide linkages. Also Tri-isopropylamine 3.0 gm
successfuluse of cyclic organic sulphonates,such as glycol sulphite or Sodium hydroxide 0.6 gm
butadiene sulphonate,has been reported. lncorporation of surfactantsin Sodium sulphite 3.0 gm
the preparations promotes rapid wetting of the hair and helps in solubi- Turkey red oil 1.5 gm
lizing the perfume oil. Some patent preparations reportedly use Water 88.9gm
sequestering agent, EDTA etc., to prevent the oxidation of the solution Perfume q.s.
by inactivating the catalytic metal ions. Also addition of conditioninc
Nlrr llrst four components with part of water. Take turkey red oil
agents has been suggestedby some workers.
dlrl ;r1'rlirrrreand mix with some amount of water and mix with first
The stepwise general procedure for hot waving is as follows. It = rr111111v11,
Make vol um e.
needs to be modified according to need and preparations.
,{prr,l lrom using electrical heating or preheatedrods, chemical heat-
(a) Hair is cleaned to remove greasy or dusty materials using irE! (,rtr lic also used in permanentwaving. In this method the heat is
shampoo. grft'rirt.tl by reacting exothermic materials after application of chemi-
(b) Hair is divided in several parts and wound around a suitable r al', rrlolrgwith a moisteningmedium.
roller with little tension. llrt' lrcrrlis normally generatedby any of the fbllowing processes.
(c) A wet strip soaked with suitable solution is wound over the 1I) Oxidation reduction
hair. (l ) l l ydration
(rt) The whole set is heated and dried by encasing in a suitable ( |) Neutralization
electrical heater or by other means" I lrr r'lrcrnic'allyheatingmethod was developedlong back in England
in lr,'l At early stage of the developmentof this method quicklime
rrer',ili('(l rvilll a rnoisteningagent such as ammonium sulphate,agar or
*tilrr,ilr:r Alicrrwardsseveral other agents have been deveioped and

t=e-
156 A HANDBOOK
OFCOSMETICS t h I.1 IIAIR WAIVERS. CURLERSAND STRAIGHTENERS
t57
they include active agents like aluminium and its chloride and sulphate, WAVING SOLUTIONS
barium salts, ammonium salts of organic acids, copper carbonate,copper
Formula5
nitrate, iron frllings, etc.
Thioglycollic acid 6.62 gm
(3) Cold waving procedures : In cold waving procedure, a perma- Ammonia (35%ow/w) 2.ll gm
nent waving can be achieved by making new permanent cross-linkages Water 91.27gm
in hair without applying heat. This method has partly replaced hot Perfume q.s.
waving method in several places. Prepareby simple solution.
Cold waving can be achieved by different methods as mentioned
below: Formula7
(a) Chemical neutralization Thioglycollic acid 7.0 gm
(b) Atmospheric oxidation Monoethanolamine 8.0 gm
(c) Special methods like using pin perms, roller perms, etc. Ammonia (35o/ow/w) 2.0 gm
Water 83.0 gm
It has been observed that alkali solution of substituted mercaptan,
Perfume q.s.
thioglycollic acid, reduces the disulphide linkages in the keratin. The
pH should be above 7.0 and below 10.0, preferably between 9-2 to 9.5. Prepareby simple solution.
The substitutedgroup of mercaptan may be ionized or non-ionized. The
COLD WAVE POWDERS
concentration of rnercaptan is expected to be between I to l.SYo. The
alkali vehicle should be a volatile base. Formula8
Thioglycollic acid 20.0 gm
Thioglycollic acid is widely used for cold waving and used in 4 to
Ammonium carbonate 20.0 gm
8o%depending on the need. In addition to thioglycollic acid, coldwave
Sodium carbonate 24I gm
so l ut ions alway s c o n ta i n a n a l k a l i , preferabl y ammoni a.
monoethanolamine, isopropanolamine. Strong bases like sodium or Mix thioglycollic acid and ammoniumbicarbonateuntil no more
potassium hydroxide may be used in very low concentrations,but not r rulrrrrrdioxideis liberated.Now add sodiumcarbonateand mix till no
much preferred. Triethanolamine is also not preferred. Irrrrr|'sirre presentand pack it properlyto avoid moisture. Before
use
ll grno(-thispowderis to be dissolvedin 100ml water.
After processing the hair with reducing agents for required period,
the hair, then, is to be neutralized using an oxidizing solution for Nrulrullzer
5-10 minutes. Normally after unwinding the hair one more treatment
with oxidizing solution is done and the hair is made tc intended style.
Cold waving preparationscan be in solution, powders or creams.
The total process can be divided into the following steps:-
(1) Cleaningthe hair to removegreaseand dust.
(2) Whole hair is divided into parts and waving lotion is applied
thoroughlyand woundon curlers.
(3) Kept for about20-40 minutes. I lrc ncutralizinglotion consistsof--
(4) Then the hair is rinsedwith neutralizerand kept for l0 minutes. ( l) A weakacid suchas acetic,citrie,tartaricacid.
(s)Hair is removed lrom the hair curlers and once aeain washed (2) An oxidizing agent such as hydrogenperoxide,sodium
or
with neutralizingsolution. potassium bromate, sodium perborate, ammonium
persulphate,
sodiumchlorate.etc.
(6) Finally the hair is rinsedoff.
I58 OFCOSMETICS
A HANDBOOK
I h L' llAIl{ WAIVERS.CURLERSAND STRAIGHTENERS 159
The neutralizing agents are marketed as aqueous solutions or in
powder form. Hydrogen peroxide is marketed as solid or as urea- rerlrrcirrglotion, processingof hair and neutralization processare done as
ttt ttttl
hydrogen peroxide complex.
As lor normal permanent waving the hair is tightly wound over
NEUTRALIZINGLOTIONS r rrrlt'rs,it takesa plenty of time to set the hair. In the above-mentioned
Formula9 rrr.llrrtl lcscttingdoes not take time. After the treatmentthe hair can be
Hydrogenperoxide 26.4 gm ,ltrtr tly dried and can be reseteasily or need not require to set at all.
Citric acid 1.2 gm (.1) Instant perms : These are more or less same as chemically
Polyoxyethylene lauryl ether 2.8 gm
lerrtrrlizcd perms. But here the processingtime after winding is nil.
Rosin opacifier 0.4 gm
llrr conlact of the reducing agent and the hair is done before winding.
Water 69.2 gm
tl"nnrlly the processingtime is made less by using more of free
r l I I | | | l l )| I l i l .
F o rm u l a1 0
Sodium bromate 20.0 gm I lrioglycollate is toxic to eye and irritant to skin, if remains in
Polyglycol 400 laurate 5.0 gm r .111;111 lirr a long time. So, care should be taken while applying to same
Diglycol stearate 1.0 gm r1t. i rrrrlski n.
Glyceryl monostearate 1.0gm
llrlr' lilraighteners
Sodium cetyl sulphate 2.5 gm
Polyglycol 400 0.5 gm Ilrrrugh the hair straightenersare actionwise opposite to waving or
Water 60.0 gm trrrlirrpiprocess but it is discussed here as this is also achieved by
nr,r,lrl.yirrg
the hair structureby breaking cross linkages.
Atmospheric Oxidation llrrir straighteners are also, to some extent, related to cold-wave
In this method the hair is reduced by the same wa)' g;; inentioned in l,rcprrirlions. In this the thioglycollate treatment is done for reverse
earlier topic by using alkaline thioglyccllic acid but the hair is kept for lurlxrsrr. They are used to straighten the curly or kinky hair by breaking
sel,/ersihcurs in curlcrs ani.laiiowed for atmosphericoxidation' Then the tlr,' ,lisulphide linkages of curly hair and reforming them in uncurled
hair is reieaseclfrom the curlers and washed and set as desired. As it is sl l 'tl rt.
kept for 5 hcurs, it can only be used at home, but the hair is treated with I lrcrc are different methods or techniques for straightening of hairs.
less reagents.
{ l) llot comb-pressing oil methods : In this method, first petro-
Special Methods lrrrrrrjclly is applied to straightenthe hair and then eombed using a hot
Different and special techniques and accessoriesare used to achieve lrrlirl A rnixture of,petrolatum and paraffin can also be used. Petrola-
cold-waving and are mentioned below:-- rrrr :lr:ts as a heat transfer agent between hot metal and hair. After
rhrirrglhc hot comb, the hair is washedand dried. The method is not a
(1) Tepid warntr air wave : In this method the thioglycollate treat-
l rettni l l terlone.
tt
rnent is clone at slightly elevated temperature for faster and better result.
(2) Oaustic preparation : In this method caustic alkali preparations
Using elevatecltemperature will also reduce the required concentration
of thioglycolhrte. 'fhe heating can be done by electrical process or by tr I r('rrn lbrm are applied for straightening purpose. The alkali is used
hood dryer. irr lr.trvccrr 4 to 9o/oand higher concentration makes the process faster.
ln lrrcpurcthe cream, selectionof oil phase and surfactantshas to be
(2) Itoller and pire perm$ : \\rhen the curling is intended fbr a short
rlrrrrct'rrrclully. They should not form salt with alkali. As alkali causes
time, say f,ervweeks, this modifiectrrnethod can be very usefill. The hair rlirrrirf'.c
to scalp or eye, care should be taken.
can be r,vorrndover large diameter(l%") roller curlers or over ordinary
hairpins tcl make curls of 1" in cliameter. .Tlren the applicatinn of 1.1) Ohcmical hair reducing agents : Thioglycollatereducingagents
r trr l)c rrscdhere also, as they break disulphide linkages of curly hair and

t=rl
 160 A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICTi

straightenthem. The curlersare removedafter thioglycoflate

treatment,
when the hair is in soft condition. Thenthe hair is rinsed
with neutraliz-
ing lotions. After this a suitablecreamis appliedto hold
the hair firmly
in position.
CHAPTER-13
Evaluation
It is necessary
to measurethe quantityof the chemicaragentspresenr Hair Removers
in the preparationsas use of higher toncentrationis
toxic and nol
permittedby severalcountries. Also identificationtests
for otheringre-
dientsare to be done.
llerrrrvtl of superfluoushair has been in practice from the ancient
(l) Toxic or side effects: Severaltestsare requiredto pariod. Egyptiandancersand courtiers,thousandsofyears ago, knew
evaluatethc
toxic effects;the effectscan be scalp irritation,damageto Iruw kr remove hair growth on arrns and legs. Shaving by men,
the general
health, incompatibilitydue to cross-sensitization leading to deriratitis. Ir,lrnbly, startedmuch before that. one of the earliest substances
This can be done on animal or by patchtest on humanvolunteers. tep'rlcd to be used by the Egyptian dancersfor removal of unwanted
(2) stabilify test : It is necessary
to test the stabilityand usefulness hrrtris rhusma,amixture of quicklimeand arsenicalpyritesin aratio of
of the productduring sherflife, as severaringredientsare present. I .t l' powder form this was mixed with aqueousalkali before use.
This
can be done by normarstabilitytest or accelerated Arrrlhersubstance reportedto be usedfor the samepurposewasorpiment
stabilitvtest.
whirrlris arsenictrisulphide.Anothertechniquewhich wasp'sed,in early
ql'ges, fbr removal of unwantedhair was rubbing
the skin surfacewith
Iilllnt(:cstone.
I'rirctice of hair removal by men is mainly removal of facial hair,
;rnrlly .r totally. This is termed as shaving and preparationsfor this will
I'r. discussedin the subsequentchapter (Shaving preparations).
w<lmen use various techniques and substancesto remove hair from

!lepilatories
l)cpilatories are the preparationsused for degradationofthe superflu-
hair chemically without affecting the skin, Depilatory removes thc
"s

l6l
 162 A HANDBOOK OF COSMETI('S
hair at the neck of the hair follicle and thus has advantage over razor
shaver which removes hair on a level with the surface of the epidermis.
Razor shaven hair growth is thus notiieable sooner than depilatory
removal.
As mentioned in the introduction, the first depilatory is reportedto bc
rhusma used by the Egyptian dancers. The depilatories act by degrading
the hair keratin. As it is known that keratin is sensitive to the action ol'
strongly alkaline aqueous solutions and reducing agents, mbst of the
depilatories consist of such agents. The alkaline reducing agents cause
the swelling of the hair fibres and break the cystine bridges between
adjacent polypeptide chains as a first step to the complete degradationol'
the hair.
As stratum corneum also contains keratin, depilatories may cause
local damage of the skin by also affecting skin keratin when applied for
hair removal. This effect can be avoided or minimized by properly
formulating with correct choice of agents in proper concentration and
applying it for a short period of time. So, the preparationshould be such
that it can preferentially and rapidly reacts with hair for selective degra-
dation of hair keratin without damaging the skin.
So, the desirable charactersof an ideal depilatory preparation are-
(l) Selectivein action
(2) Efficient and rapid action in few minutes
(3) Non-toxic and non-allergic to the skin
(4) Odourless
(5) Easy to apply
(6) Stable
(7) Non-staining to clothing
Ingredients
Different substancesare used for removal of hair in depilatory prepa-
rations. Apart from the active component of depilatory agent and water
as vehicle, the preparations also contain humectants such as glycerine,
propylene glycol; thickening agents to enhancethe viscosity; surfactants
to emulsiff incorporated fat, if any. Also polyethylene grycors are used
to form a film on the skin. optionally, sometimes, astringents, rocal
anaestheticsor mucins and inert powders are also incorporated.
(l) Inorganic sulphides : First depilatory reported, rhusma, con-
tained arsenic trisulphide (As2S3). It is no more used as it can be
dangerous to skin, particularly the skin not in good condition. The
sulphides of sodium, calcium, strontium and barium are there for use as
t lr lr l l ^l l r R E MO VERS 163
rfe;rrlirlrrry.Sodium sulphide,2oloaqueoussolution at pH 12, is a strong
rlcprlrrtory and can degrade hair in 6-7 minutes. But it has a strong
rr,tr(ln ()n tlre skin, so not preferred nowadays. Barium sulphide is
hrplrly loxic and calcium sulphide is less toxic but also less effective as
rlrprlrrlory. Depilatory activity of the magnesiumsulphide is also very
hrrv lrrrl zinc sulphide is poorly water soluble. Strontium sulphide is a
l,r'tter c:hoice as depilatory. Though it is not as active as sodium
rrrllrlridc but when used at high concentration of about 25-50o/oit can
,fr'p.rirrlclrair in 3-4 minutes. At ls%o concentrationthe same can be
rrrlricvcd by 5-7 minutes. For optimum activity pH should be about 12'
I lrt' slrort period of action almost does not cause any skin irritation or
,lrrrrirgc. One disadvantageof inorganic sulphides is unpleasant odour
lrr,rlrrccd by formation of hydrogen sulphide on hydrolysis. Sometimes
tt rcnririnseven after washings.
12) Thioglycollates ; Most widely used active ingredientsin depila-
t'r ics, presentday, are substitutedmercaptans,especially thioglycollates'
I lrcscare also used in conjunction with an alkali. Calcium thioglycollate
rrt ,'5 to 4Yo is a good depilatory agent when used in conjunction with
r rrltiurn or strontiumhydroxide and at pH between 1l-12. At concentra-
lrrrrs below 2o/o it is very slow and above 4%o there is not much
r'rrlrirrrccment in activity. Depending on concentration of calcium
tlrroglycollateit takes 5-15 minutes for removal of hair. This substance
r', lcss toxic and odour is much less than sulphides.
l.ithium thioglycollate has also been reportedly used as a depilatory
rrp.crrt.Apart from calcium and strontium hydroxides alkali hydroxides,
,.,r,lirrnror potassium, can also be used as bases. Cetyl alcohol is also
rrrcorporatedto obtain a cream like product.
(.!) Stannites : In the period of 1930-1945 several patents have
rclrortcd use of stannites. Particularly sodium stannite (NaH3SnO3) is a
nrrrc,lrreported active ingredient in depilatory preparations. In presence
ol wuter these salts impart a strong reducing and alkaline effect. It is
orlrrrrless, in comparison to sulphides. But these substanceswere not
krurrdin much use later.
(4) Enzymes : Keratinase enzymes have also been found in use as
rl.rpilatory. They are non-irritant and odourless. Enzymes digest the
lcratin of hair at a buffered optimum pH of 7-8. Enzyme is used at a
t'orrcentrationbetween 3-47o.
(5) Other additives : Humectants are incorporated to prevent quick
tlrying on the skin. Substancesthat can be used are glycerine, sorbitol,
propyleneglycol.
 164 A HANDBoOK
oF coSMETtCs r h ll l l ^ I t t R L M O V ER S 165

Thickening agents,like methyl cellulose,starch,mucins, are als. trlr. rrrrlil homogeneous and then mill to smooth the product.
incorporatedto achievea proper consistencyfor appryingon skin and t.
help in dispersingany solidsused. 3
Formula
Thioglycollic acid(90%) 4.0 gm
Sometimesinert powders like talc, calcium carbonate,zinc oxide,
Hydratedlime 10.0gm
osmo-kaolin,titaniumoxide are incorporated to get consistency,
prevent- Calcium carbonate (precipitated) 20.0 gm
ing quick drying on the skin and to makea visible film.
Stearyl alcohol 6.0 gm
Polyethyleneglycols are usedto form a film which is easyto wash Sulphonatedstearyl alcohol 0.6 gm
off. Water 59.4 gm
Fats are incorporatedto have skin-protectingor conditioning effect. Perfume q.s.
Preservative q.s
Surfactantsare used to emulsify any fats incorporatedor to promote
wetting of the hair. They also help in washingoff the preparationsafter l'rcparethe cream base by mixing and triturating stearyl alcohol,
use. nrrllrlronatedstearylalcohol and water and preservative.Add the sub-
sometimesastringents,local anaesthetics 'itirr(csgraduallyto the basewith trituration.Mill to the smooth.
or disinfectantsare used.
Water-solubleperfumesand preservatives
are also incorporated. Formula4
Calcium thioglycollate trihydrate 6.0 gm
Formula I
Calcium carbonate 20.0 gm
Strontiumsulphide 20.0 gm
Titanium dioxide 2.0 gm
Talc 20.0 gm
Cetyl alcohol 5.0 gm
Methyl cellulose 3.0 gm
Sodium lauryl sulphate 0.5 gm
Glycerine 15.0gm
Water (powder or needless)
42.0 gm
Glycerine 5.0 gm
Perfume q.s.
Water 61.5 gm
Preservative q.s.
Perfume q.s.
For m ula 2 Calcium hydroxide to adjust pH to 12 q.s
Strontium sulphide 30.0 gm Mix and triturate titanium dioxide with glycerine. Melt cetyl alcohol
Titanium dioxide 3.0 gm rrrrrludd the glycerine mixture and add a little water to form a paste.
Zinc oxide 7.0 gm I'rclxrre a mixture of sodium lauryl sulphate, calcium hydroxide and
Calcium carbonate 5.0 gm , ,rlcirrrrrthioglycollate separately. Add this to a mixture of calcium
Glycerine 8.0 gm t.irrlrorratein water. Now add this mixture to the letyl alcohol paste with
Gum tragacanth 5.0 gm ilrillinuous stirring to form a cream. Adjust the pH value and total
Lime water 42.0 gm rvcipilrtwith calcium hydroxide and water and then finally mill.
Perfume q.s.
Preservative q.s For m ula5
Calcium thioglycollate trihydrate 6.0 gm
Dissolve the preservative in the glycerine. Then to a portion of the
Calcium carbonate 17'5 gm
glycerine mix the gum tragacanth and add sufficient water to make a
Mineral oil 5'o gm
mucilage. Triturate titanium dioxide with zinc oxide and mix with
Cetyl alcohol 5.0 gm
remaining portion of the glycerine. Add the mucilage slowly to this
Sodium lauryl sulphate (powder or needless) 0.5 gm
with trituration. Add the strontium sulphide, calcium carbonate and
Glycerine 3.5 gm
perfume with trituration. Dilute it with remainder of the lime water.
r6 8 A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
the quantity. It can be done by any instrumentalchemicalanalysis.
(2) Toxicity test : The test can be doneon animal. For this purpose
rabbit can be used. Preparations can be appliedfor hair removaland the
effecton the skin can be studiedby observation
or by microscopicstudy.
(3) Stability : Stability of the product is very important. This is
done by any normal stability study or acceleratedstability study at
highertemperature.
(4) Rheology: Rheologyof the preparationcan be studiedby using
any suitableviscometer.
CIIAPTER-14
Shaving Preparations
Itr tllc preceding chapter preparationsand methods adopted for removal
rrf rrrrwantedhair have been discussed. As shaving creams are different
Irr rr.,r'urrd in nature, it is discussedseparatelyin this chapter.
I lrcsc are widely used men's cosmetic products. Shaving prepara-
tllr\ nlay be divided, basically, into two groups-
( I ) Preparationsused before shaving
(2) Preparations used after shaving
(l) PREPARATIONS USED BEFORE SHAVING
llrc:scpreparationsare used for softening the beard for wet shaving
rrrr,frrfs<rto produce rich foam to facilitate shaving by razor, safety blade
rrr r.leclric shaving. These preparations can further be classified into
l w rr
(A) Preparationsused for shaving with razor blade
(ll) Preparationsused for electric shaving
llistorically probably men started removal of hair from the face after
rrgrrt rrltural revolution. Earlier to that it is to be assumedthat males also
Iepl lurir like animals. At very early stage the shaving must have been
rery rudimentary. Probably it was effected by cutting hair with some
ahargrrnetallicedge.
(,l course water might have been used for softening of the hair. The
rrqe ol' cosmetics came at a very late stage. Most of the shaving
prepulirtionsmake the hair soft and assist the movement of razor on the
clirr srrrface. Even now in many rural parts the shaving is done only by
rrrrrir.lcning
hair with water. As this chapterwill unfold, shavingprepa-
rrrtiorrsare a classby themselves.
1A) Prcparations Used for Shaving with Razor Blade
llrough it is possible to shave by razor or blade without any assist-
nrrrc liom cosmetic preparations, but because of hardness of the dry
t69
 170 A FTANDBooK
oF cosMErrcs
I h I'I SIIAVING
PREPARATIONS
keratin, movement of the rzlzors or blades becomes difficult. The I71
shaving causes irritation. Also, the hard keratin spoils the blades or Slr'ving soapsmainly consist of potassium soap with a little
razor edge. As the shaving remains incomplete, several shavlngs are amount
required. Multiple shavings may possibly causethe cutting of the skin.
As discussed earlier in hair and hair removal chapters, water can
soften the hair. But, normally, water gets evaporated before sufficient
wetting of the hair as it takes some time to soften hair. These drawbacks
can be overcome by use of shaving preparationslike shaving soaps,and
creams and others, though water is main component for such softening.
Shaving preparationssupport the action of water by multiple mecha-
nisms of the constituents of such preparations-
(l) Wetting agents promote the wetting of the hair.
\l;rcrfirlting agents such as mineral oil, petrolatum, free
(2) Alkali reaction of some agents causesfaster swelling of the fatty acids,
lrrltr irlr.lr.ls, poiyoxyethyleneglycols and lanolin are normally
keratin. incor-
fr.rrrtc(l in the preparationsto make the lather softer and creamier and
(3) Humectantsand water-impermeablesubstancesprevent rapid alrrr kr have an emollient effect on the skin. In creams
totar fatty
evaporation of the water. a'l'rlrrrt'csshould be minimum 30%. Additionally
some other additives
Additionally these pieparations, particularly rich lather, helps to keep dre irl\() irrcorporatedto have additional effects. They are chlorhexidine
the hair erect, so as not to escape the razor or blacle and lubricating disinfectants, menthol etc. for cooling effect, silicones for
'r 'llrr:r'
effect permits the smooth gliding of the razor or blade over the skin. frrlrritirliori and ease of dragging razor or blade, perfumes for
appealing
Also, some hair softening agents, particularly rich agents, may be f Ltvoilt and preservatives, if required.
incorporated but as the shaving takes short time, such agents should act
very fast, should not damage the skin and should not have unpleasant SOAPBAR
odour. FormulaI
Stearicacid 49.00gm
These preparationscan be classified into three groups-
Coconutoil 13.00gm
(l) Shaving soaps : Solid and creams
Causticpotash 22.00gm
(2) Brushless shaving creams
Causticsoda 12.00gm
(3) Aerosol preparations
Water 1.25gm
(1) Shaving soaps : Once, solid soaps or cakes or sticks were used Sodiumdioxystearate
(50%) 0.75 gm
widely. But over the years shaving creams have largety replaced the Sorbitalliquid 1.25gm
solid soaps. The creams have replaced the solid products because of Glycerol 0.75 gm
ease of application. Perfume q.s.
trn all these preparations, a concentrated aqueous solution of soap, Preservative q.s.
supported by the mechanical action of the brush, is used to produce
SOAPCREAM
lather and acts on beard. Before application a normal washing is done to
remove fat film over the beard. The products are expectedto produce a Formula2
rich. soft and fine lather and the latlier should be lorrg-lasting,at least fbr
n. Stearicacid 30.0gm
5-10 minutes for complete shaving. Coconutoil 10.0gm
Palmkerneloil 5.0 gm
Soaps are n-larketedin three fbrms: cake, solid sticl<arrrj creams.
ll Potassiumhydroxide 7.0 gm
Sodiumhydroxide 1.5 gm
 t tr l4 lillAVING PREPARATIONS
173
172 A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
Formula5
Giycerine 0.0 gm Glycerol monostearate 14.0gm
Water 36.5 8m Stearic acid 8.0 gm
,l
Perfume q.s. Glycerine 5.0 gm
Preservative q.s. Mineral oil 3.0 gm
Water 70.0 gm
Heat with compositions of 'A' and 'B' separately at about 75"C" q.s.
Perfume
Preservativeshould be incorporated with glycerine or water. Mix 'B' to q.s.
Preservative
'A' with stirring until cream is formed' Cool it to 45"C and add
perfume. Mill it.
F o rmu l a3
Stearic acid 38.0gm
Olive oil 2.0 gm
Coconut oil 6.0 gm
Glycerine 4.0 gm
Lecithin 2.0 gm
Potassium hydroxide (80%) 1.6 gm
Sodium hydroxide (90%) 0.3 gm
Water 46.0 gm
Perfume q.s.
Preservative q.s.
(2) Brushtess shaving creams : In these preparations, lathering
with brush is omifie<I. After washing off the face with soap and warm
water, these shaving crearns are applied to keep the beard soft till the
shaving is completed. Initial washing helps in defatting and makes the
hair soften. The creams function is to prevent the keratin from drying
and hardening. As these creams are applied on wet face, they should be
miscible with water for even spreading. They mainly consist of stearate
soap and additionatly contain oils. humectant,viscosity enhancingagent.
The futty substancesshould be at least 209/o" lncorporation of sorne
waxes can enhance the viscosity and it is required as consistency is
important for proper application. Perftirnes and preservativesare also
incorporateci.
Formula4
Stearicacid 15.0 gm
h{ineral oil 14.0 gm PO\1'I}8trT5
Spermaceti 2"0 gm liorrmul;r6
Glycerine 6.0 gm Magnesium stearate 7.0 gm
Dilute solution of amrnonia(10% of NH3) 2'0 gm Kaolirr 5.0 gm
Water 60.0 gm Talc fi8.0 5irrt
Perfurne q's. Perfume q.s.
,
Preservative q"s.
 174 A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS I h,I4 SIIAVING PREPARATIONS t75
Formula 7 l'he useful antibacterialor antiseptic substancesare quaternary
Zinc stearate 7.0 gm lrrrrrronium compounds, chlorhexidinediacetate.
Kaolin 6.0 gm ('rcarnsarepreferredfor skinssensitiveto alcoholiciotions. Creams
Talc 87.0 gm
Perfume
r nrr ulso give extra benefit to the skin like any other emollient or
q.s.
Itolcclive creams.
LOTIONS
Formula10
Formula8
Toilet spirit 50.0 gm
Isopropyl myristate 12.0gm Glycerine 3.0 gm
Alcohol 88.0gm Cetrimide 0.1 gm
Perfume q.s
Water 46.9 gm
Formula9
Perfume q.s.
Isopropyl myristate 12.00gm
Formulall
Menthol 0.05gm Alum 2.0 gm
Zinc phenosulphonate 0.10gm Glycerine 3.0 gm
Alcohol 87.85gm Menthol 0.1 gm
Perfume q.s.
Witchhazelextract 25.0 gm
Alcohol 25.0 gm
(2} PREPARATIONS USED AFTERSHAVING Water 44.9 gm
These are another group of shaving preparationswidely used. What- Perfume q.s.
ever may be the method of shaving there may be some irritation, minor
damage to skin or cuts. The extent depends on method, instrument and Formula12
preparations used for shaving. To overcome or treat these problems Glycerine 2.0 gm
various preparations are used and they are termed as after-shave prepara- Chlorhexidinediacetate 0.2 gm
tions. Menthol 0.1 gm
Alcohol 40.0 gm
The after-shave preparationsare basically applied to cool and refresh
Water 57.7gm
the skin, to overcome irritation on the skin, to neutralize the soreness,to
Perfume q.s.
disinfect or heal the skin damage or cut. They are used in the form of
lotions, creams or powders. Formula13
The lotions are clear solutions containing 25 ta 50o/oalcohol. Addi- Carbopol-934 1.0 gm
tionally they may also contain antiseptic, ernollient, haemostyptic Menthol 0.1 gm
substances. Also they may contain extract of witchhazel, menthol, Alcohol 45.0 gm
glycerine, boric acid, alum, potassium oxyquinoline sulphate and chloro- Di-isopropanolamine 0.8 gm
form. If alcohol content is less, the perfume should be water soluble or Water 53.1gm
soluble in less concentrations of alcohol. Alternatively solubilizing Perfume q.s.
agents may be used.
Formula14
Most of the lotions are used as after-shavepreparations. po*.ders are Glyceryl monostearate 12.0gm
also used to sorne extent but use of creams is comparatively less. Stearicacid 5.0 gm
 I lr l4 S l l A V l N (i P RE P A R A TION S
177
t76 A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICIi
and
l,,r ,iul)plctnentingoils to the skin, this is also to be checked
Isopropylmyristate 2.0 gm
rl cl r'ttti
r ttcd.
Glycerine , 5'o gm
Water 'r 76.0 gm (5) loam formation : For foam producing preparations formation
Perfume q.s" rrf loiilrr, the nature and stability of foam should be studied and com-
l,,rrr.rlwith the standard.
POWDERS ((r) Skin sensitization test : This is also important as these prepara-
Formula 15 il,ril,,,(luc to presenceof some agents,can cause skin sensitization'
Boric acid 3.0 gm physical stability of
t7) Stability of the creams: This is to study
Magnesium stearate 4.0 gm stability study'
tlr,' procluctsby various means or accelerated
Talc 93.0 gm
Perfume q.s. tlll l"or Aftershave Lotions-

F o rmu l a1 6 1| )A nti septi cpr oper t y: Ast hesepr epar at ionscont ainant isept ics,
ir r'. ncccssaryto evaluate antiseptic property by in-vitro test'
Calcium carbonate 5.0 gm
Zinc stearate 10.0gm (2)D etermi nat ionof a|coholcont ent : Thiscanbedet er m inedby
Kaolin 5.0 gm ,ilr\ silitable method. As these preparationscontain alcohol it is neces-
Boric acid 2.0 gm rrrry lo estimatethe alcohol content.
Chlorhexidine diacetate 0.5 gm (.1) Dermatological safety : The products should not have effect on
skin'
Talc 77.5 gm ulrrr. So, suitable test should be carried out to study the effect on
Perfume q.s. llris can be done on animal skin.

Evaluation
As in any other products, shaving preparations and after-shave prepa-
rations should also be evaluated for quality and performance.
Identification of various ingredients and their quantitative estimation
should be done by suitable methods. Apart from these some other tests
also are to be carried out for these products.

(A) For Shaving Preparations-

(l) Determination of free caustic alkali : As free alkali can dam-
age the skin, it is necessary to determine it. It can be done by any
suitable method.
(2) Determination of potash soap : As it is necessarythat 50% of
the alkali used for saponification be potash, it is also required to estimate
it.
(3) Determination of total free acids : It is also necessary tb
detennine the free fatty acids present in the soaps or creams. The titre of
total fatty acids is required to be determined by suitable means.
(4) Determination of total fatty materials : As a minimum amount
of total fatty materials must be preSent in different shaving preparations
 I h rr NAIL 179

l'hc body of the nail basically consists of tightly compresseddead

r ellr packed with keratin. As the cells producing the nails can be
CHAPTER-15 aflct:tcd by conditions controlled by body metabolism, changes in the
rlrnpc,colour, structure of the nails can help in diagnosis of diseases. In
lrrlienls of chronic respiratory disorders, thyroid gland disorders, or
Nail All)S thc nails become yellow. In psoriasistfre nails may become pifted
) *rrrl tlislorted. They become concave in some blood disorders.

Free edge
Hyponychium(underneath)
Nail bed (underneath)
Lateral nail fold
Lateral nail groove
Lunula
Proximal nail fold
Eponychium

Eponychium

Epidermis Dermis
(I) Anatomy and History
Fig l5.l Schematicstructureof nail

1l ) (' omposi ti on
'l hc nails are also made of hard keratin like hair. The protein
sltrtelrrrccontains a high proportion of sulphur-rich amino acid cystine
rvltlt srnall proportion of methionone, tyrosine, lysine, and histidine. The
rrnil is composed of three layers, a soft lower layer called central nail,
rvitlr hard keratin forming the intermediate layer, and the outer layer
r nffcd dorsal nail. The nail also contains 12 to l4%o water and fattv
rrrnlerials mainly of cholesterol.
'l'hc knowledge of composition suggeststhat the manicure prepara-
liotts should possibly avoid use of materials that remove natural fat or
rryrlcr-solublesubstancesas these could damage the lattice-like structure
ul lruil and may hasten the splitting or breaking. Sometimes fatty
rrrnlerialsare incorporated in manicure preparationsto supplementthem.

t78
 180 A HANDBOOK OF COSMETI(.S
thl l N A IL l8l
(3) Nail Disorders
As mentioned earlier the nail disorders may be attributed to disorder Iilrrg.iin which the nail folds become red and swollen and mostly occurs
of general condition of body, nervous strain or body metabolism or 11 wornen whose hands are constantly in contact with w.ater, soaps and
dietary deficiency of vitamins, amino acids etc. occasionally minor rlelirg,cnts.
disorder also may occur. l lrrl-octionof fungus under free edge of nail and attacking tli6 nail bed
There can be several disorders ofnails. nrrrlruril subsequentlyleads to ringworm of the nails. The affected nails
heeornerough, opaque and brittle.
(a) Leukonychia : comprete whiteness of the nails or spots on thc
nail frequently occurs and is not necessarily termed as disease. one t{) Nuil Nutrition
suggestion is that this is due to the injury to nail with simultaneous I'hough there is no definite proof of effects of deficiency of vitamins
production of air bubble. Alternative suggestion is that this may be or olhcr essential substances,but some workers reported that supple-
due
to the presence of keratohyarin granules or enlarged acidopliiic ceils. merrting with vitamins A, D and B improves the health and appearance
The diffusion of light by these granules makes the cells appear white ill nuils. Other substanceslike amino acids, proteins are also probably
instead of pink. rer[rircd" Fats or oily substancesdlsq supplementthe health of nails.
(b) Koilonychia : This is also called spoon nails, as the nails are
depressedin centre and raised at the edges like a spoon. lr) Nail Cares and Preparations
Vurious products are marketed and are available for enhancing attrac-
(c) Effects of systemic disease : It has been found that sometimes tivcrcss of nails and contributing to overall beauty. They can be
occurrence of a specific mark on nails, such as transversefurrowing of r lnrsil'icd as follows-
the nails or a single furrow running across each nail, indicates the
(a) Nail lacquers and removers.
occurrence of a specific disease. Different systemic diseases have
specific mark. (h) Auxiliary products
(i) Cuticle removers
Sometimes a defective blood supply may cause a damage to the nail
bed and makes the nail brittle. Due to severe chilblains nails mav also (ii) Nail bleachesand nail whites
become detached from nail beds. (iii) Nail creams
(d) Brittleness : Brittleness of nails may be caused by congenital
defects, systemic disorders or due to some other factors. the brittG naits
may split easily. Systemic disorders which can make nails brittle are
anaemia, avitaminogis, gout, hypo- and hyper-thyroidism.
Sometimes continuous use of nail varnishes or vamish removers,
without supplementing, in between, with nail creams, may also cause
brittleness.
It has, also, been observed that continuous supply of gelatin, orally,
makes the nails hard and brings back normalcy in afpearance and
recovery from brittleness.
This probably suggbsts that lack of gelatin supply may cause
brittleness.
(e) Disorders of fungal or bacterial origin : The fungal and bacte-
rial infection of nails causes diseases like paronychia, nail ringworm,
and lesions produced by syphilis. paronychia is caused by yeasrlike
 I h 16 NAIL LAQUERSAND REMOVERS 183

lo producea smoothfilm the productshouldremainliquid enough

lrrr n srnopthapplication. But it shouldnqt ta,kemuch time to dry to
CHAPTER.16 Evorrldamageto the appliedfilm while drying. The lacquershouldbe
tlrll cnoughto apply easilybut not so much thin that it movesquickly
lrr ruril surface. During application,preferably,it shoufdnot have any
Nail Lacquers and Removers llrlrusivcodour.
lrilrn shouldbe continuousand must adhereto the nail surface,and it
rlrorrldnot peeloff. The film shouldbe glossyand must retainthe gloss
Regular care and treatment is very much important urrrlelthe influenceof extemalinterferingfactorssuch as humidity,air,
for nail grooming
and to maintain them in good condition. A sei llglrt,warmoleold, soapand detergentsolutions. The colourshouldbe
of manicureprelp-arations
consistsof a numberof differentcosmeticproducts llrrrrund mustnot spoil the clothing.
which are concerned
with.cleansingand preparationsof the nail and
its decoration.Nail is l'hc preparationshouldnot be harmful or toxic to the nail or to the
considered,particularly by females,as an important
part foi g.oo_ing nrllrrct'rrl
skin surface.
and decorationto enhancebeautyand overall appeal.
I'lrccharacters of the film are expectedto be as follows-
Nail Lacquers
( l) I It shouldbe of eventhicknessfor which viscosityshouldbe
The nail lacquersare the largestand most important proper and satisfactory.
group of mani-
cure preparations.The products can vary from
transparentuncolouredto (2) Uniform colourproductionby usingfinely groundpigments
oncehighly favouredpale pink to presentday
vivid rh"d"r. presentday and wetted by the medium.
nail lacquers,which are also known as nail enamel
or nail varnish,areas (3) Should have good gloss.
important'to women,as lipstick. rt has corne
to a stagewherewomen
use shadesaccordiugto the dressesor other (4) Good adhesionto the nail.
make-upJur"dt to have a
completematch. (s) Satisfactoryflexibility to avoid brittlenessand cracking.
The applicationof nail lacquerscoversthe nair (6) It should form a non-tacky surface.
with a water-andair-
impermeablemembranewhich remainsfor days
and normally u" (7) Quick drying character.
removedonly by suitabresorvent. So there is "un as
demandfo. removers (8) Long maintenanceof the film character.
muc! as that of lacquers,as userschangethe colour
or shadefrequentty
to suit their choiceand necessity A good nail lacquer should, in overall, fulfil the following charac-
Ir 't'.
From consumers'nebessitypoint of view few
factors are to be ( l) It rnust be innocuous to tfie nails and skin.
consideredsincerely whire designingnail racquers
and are discussed (2) It must be easy and convenient to apply.
oetow-
(3) Product should be stable on storage.
(l) Quality requirements for the lacquers
(2) Its behaviourduring application (a) The product should produce a good and satisfactory film.
(3) Characterof the lacquerfilm I ollrposition
(4) Non-harmfulor non-toxic
Modern nail lacquers contain the following important ingredients-
Quality of the productis very importantand shouldremainconstant ( l) Film fbrmers
-
during the storagelife. The proiuct shoularemainhomogeneous
Juring (2) Resins
storageand the pigments should not settle at (3) Solvents
the bottom. The consist-
encyalsoshouldbe constant.colour shouldnot (4) Diluents
bhangeduringshelf-rife.
(.5) Plasticizers
t82
 A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
I i r l fi N A l l . LA QU E R S A N D R E MOV E R S 185
(6) Colours
(7) Pearlescentpigments lrlvtrrt Solvent(s) should evaporate leaving behind a continuous,
(8) Others hrrlrclrrt:irble,hard film. The selection of solvent to be used in lacquer is
(1) Film forming substances : The common firm former trrlr()rlrnt and the mixtur6 is to be so balanced that the rate of evapora-
for nail llrr l)rcvontschangeswhich causeprecipitationof nitrocellulose. Though
lacquers is nitrocellulose or ceilulose nitrate. 'fhough, over
the years, rllir k cvaporation is needed but too rapid evaporation may make distri-
several other substancesare being used, but still nitrocellplose
remains hutirrnon the nail ,imiossible or troublesome. Knowledge of boiling
as the most preferred film former. The other film formers
used arc
cellulose acetate, cellulose acetobutyrate, ethyl ceilulose, lrrrirrlol' the various solvents is important. By mixing middle boiling
methacryrate
and vinyl resins. But none of these materials has been found lrrrlrrtsolvcnts such as alcohols, acetatesand aromatic solvents the rate
to be as nl cv:rlloration can be retarded" Judicious selection of mixture of
good as cellulose nitrate.
lrerlirrrrr.high, and low boiling' solvents is an important criteria for
Nitrocellulose film is better in terms of hardness,toughness,
resist- mnlirrg a good lacquer. Liquids with boiling points up to l00oC are
ance to abrasion and low solvent retention capacity.
Films or' leurrcrlas low and with boiling points between 100-150oCas medium
nitrocellulose are waterproof and stable to atmospheric conditions.
,rl,l rvilh boiling points over l50oC as high boiling point liquids.
Nitrocellulose is available in various grades and only low
viscosity
grades are used for lacquers. Use of special grade TABLE 16. I
nitrocellurose
prevents discoloration of nails. when used alone, it produces Nail Enamol Solvents and their Boiling Point
film of.
poor gloss, brittle due to shrinking and poor adherenceto
most surfaces. ,\, tlt'<'nt Roiling Solvenl Boiling
To overcome these problems normalry modifiing resin is incorporated
Point Point
Nitrocellulose is marketed dampened with ethyl or butyl
alcthol to
reduce high inflammability. 35"C Diethyl carbonate 126"C.
(?) Resins : Resins are incorporated in nail lacquers to give t r r r l r r rr lri s u l p h i d e 46"C Ethylene glycol monomethyl ether 134'C
the film
more body, gloss, depth and adhesion. It also helps in l r l r 'l l r y li t c e t o n e 500c. Ethylene glycol monoethyl ether 135"C
dispersing
insoluble pigments and lakes. Though initiaily natural resins \r r 'l r l ttt: 55'C Ethyl lactate I 35"Cl
such as
gum damar, benzoic resin, gum copal, gum elemi, lrl,-tlrr,lircetate Xylene I 38'C
shellac etc. were )b " L
widely used but they have now been replaced by svnthetic 68"C Amyl propionate 140'c
resins.
Amongst synthetic resins, sulphonamide-formaldehyderesins 140'c
are pres- h l r 'l l r r 'lc t h y l k e t o n e 70"c Isoamyl acetate
entlv used most. The polymer made by mixing equimolecularproportions
I rr lron I'ctrachloride 77"C Butyl propionate 145"C
of formaldehyde pnd p-toluene sulphonamide brings e*"eil"nt
glorr, Itlryl :rlcohol 78"C Cyclohexanone 154"C
depth. adhesion, and resistanceto water. Two such commercial products
of the aryl sulphonamide-formaldehyde type are santolite l '. u p r o l r yal l c o h o l 80"c E,thyleneglycol lsopropyl ether 159'C
MHp and
santollite MS 80%. The first one gives an harder film and the llr tllCllO 80'c i-Iexalin 160'c
latter
imparts greater flexibility and gives high gloss and good flow properties. l ',1;rropy I acetate 92"C Methyl cyclohexanone 160'c
But, they also cause allergic reactions more frequentry
than others. l l rrl yl l ormate g6'c Furt"ural 162'C
other synthetic resins which are also used occasionally include 99'C Diaeetonealcohol 164'C
alkyl Itl rr'l propronate
resins, polystyrene, polyvinyl acetate, polyacrylic estei, 165"C
epoxy ester. ri l rtrl V l i tcetate I l0'c ' Methyl hexalin
coumafone indene polymers. and copolyr-nerof vinyl acetate anri
vinyt Iol rrctte 1l0'c Hexalin acetate 183"C
chloride.
,\rrryl l i rrmate I l0"c Ethyl oxalate I 85"C
(3) solvents : solvents are. voletile *rga.nic riquids thar I 85"C]
'ormairy" Itrl vl i rl t:ohol I tr3"C Butyl lactate
combirre all the ingredients of lacquer an'.jmakc r horriogeneor,,s viseous
preparation. Ndrnlally rnixture clf sol'ents is preteried
:\rrrr'l rtl cofrol 120'C Glycol diacetate l l l 60('
r:ver srr:rgkr \rrrr'l i tccti ttc I 25'C Cyclohexanonephthalate
 186
I Ir Ir' N A II, I,A QIJE R SA N D R E MOV E R S t87
A FIANDBOOKOF COSMETI('S
Apirrt lionr alcohols other diluents used are benzene,xylene, toluene.
The solventsystemshouldbe selectedsuchthat it should
tirlr'r'rrl:; with strong and unpleasant odour are avoided. Also they
(a) Dissolveor disperseall the ingredients. rl ' bc i rri ta t ingi
al rrrrrlrrol \
(b) Producea proper viscosity.
(1) I'l:rsticizers : A suitable plasticizer is most important component
(c) Maintainthe quality during storagelife. rr,rrll;rr.:t;uers.
Nitrocelluloseor other film formers alone, normally,
',1
(d) Evaporatein such a way that leavosa good film and rrrrhl ir rltrll and brittle film which can easily flake off the nail. Incorpo-
also
makesapplicationeasy. trtfIrrr ol-:r plasticizerimparts the requiredflexibility, gloss, adhesionto
rlre rrirrl irrrd reduces its tendency to shrink. It also has effect on
(4) Diluents : They ars not exactly'sorventsbilt are organic
sorvenrs rlnr u,.rly irnd the volatility or rate of drying. Palsticizersshould be non-
miscible with nitrocellulosesolvents. Diluents are incilrpc,rated
fi, lrlirlrle lrnd miscible with film former, solvent and the other constituents.
multiple purposes.
It rlrould be colourless,ddourlessand non-toxic. Functionwisethey
(a) To build and stabilizethe viscosityof the lacquer.
r ,lr lr(' Placed into two categories:
(b) To help in solubilizationof incorporatedresins.
(a) Solvent plasticizers,which also act as solvent for film form-
(c) To lessenthe effect of freshryappriedenamelon
a previ- ers.
ously appliedlacquerfilm.
(b) Non-solventplasticizers,which only act as softener.
(d) To lower the overall cost of the product.
I lrr' lrrltcr alone may not give a good film, so a combination is taken,
The variousgroupsof sorventsusedare alcohors,aromatichydrocar- lr.r.rlrly A good plasticizershould have the following characters-
-bons, 11r
and aliphatichydrocarbons.
(l) Miscible with other ingredients
The alcohols which are preferably used are ethyl alcohol,
butyl (-2) Non-irritating and non-toxic
alcoholand selectivelyusedalong with their estersas main solvents
rike (l) Low volatility
butyl alcohol with butyr acetate. This group of sorventsare
arsocalled
as 'latent solvents'and they increasethe effectiveness of principaror
(,1) Improve the flexibility, gloss and adhesion
activesolventin combinationwith them. ( 5) Should not destabilize the preparation
To keepall the ingredientsin solution,thereis a limit of the (6) Should not discolourthe product
amount
of diluent solvent which can be accommodated by the active solvent. (7) Colourless,odourlessand stable
This limit is expressedby toleranceratio or dirution ratio.
This is 1[i) Improve the viscosity of the preparation
definedas the maximumdiruent/sorvent ratio which can be toleratedby
the nitrocellulosesolution without precipitatingthe nitrocellulose. llrr' lrlasticizersare, normally, used in 5o/oof the total mixture or 25
As
the viscosity of the product is increasedby the increase t,r 10",,ol'the film formers.The plasticizersused successfullyare dibutyl
in diluent
volume,closerthe diluent/solventratio to the tolerancevalue lrlrtlr,rl,rrr'. n-butyl stearate,resorcinoldiacetate,castoroil, triethyl citrate,
higherthe
viscosity. I imrlrlroror urea derivatives,chlorinateddiphenylenesetc. lncorporation
,r,,'lllated monogiyceridesalong with other plasticizersirnprovesthe
while selectingthe proper combinationof diluent with sorvent, 'rl
the (
l l , rl rrl i tyand l astingpower .
diluent shouldevaporateat fasterrate than the solventor
solventmix-
ture. This will preventthe precipitationof nitrocelrurose ((') Colours : Soluble dyes alone cannot, normally, impart sufficient
as diluentl
solventratio will decrease.This wilr avoid a harsh,rough rleptlrol-colour or intensity. Also it may colour ad.jacentarea. Thus
and croudy
film and producea srnooth,crearand continuousfilm. a higl, pigmentsor lakes are incorporated. Staining of the nail is not
rrr'.r'lrrlrlc
boiring
point diluent will make a brighterfirm. For matt films ,1,'^.rr.rlrlc.The lakes shoukJbe resistantto light or to astion of organic
highr-yvoratire
solventsand diluentsare used. ..lrrrri.; arrd be non-toxie, non-irritating. The lalces si-rorrldnot be
,;r.rr.rtcrl
l ry the s0lvenr s,
 r 88 A FIANDBOOKOF COSMETICS t h lr' NAll.I.AQUERS
ANDREMOVERS 189

l ,rtrr.rnl I' reparati o n

I lrc basg is prepared separately or diluted from the mother lacquer
rrvnilirhlcin the market. Nitrocelluloseor film former is dissolvedin the
,rrrlvgl'1.ltesin, plasticizer can be dissolved directly or may be dissolved
Iri rr srnrrllarnount of solvent and then may be mixed with nitrocellulose
qllrrlion. Dispersed pigments are also available readily in the market.
i lrc pigrnentsare first dispersedby milling in a suitable vehicle and then
irrrorporatedin the base. Alternatively, the milled dispersionis con-
vcrlctl into coloured chips. The boloured chips are dissolved in the
Irrtt;rrt:rbase and blended to prepare suitable shades" Also concentrated
r llorrrs are available, which can be suitably diluted and blended with
l t,t',t'

For m ulaI
Nitrocellulose 16.0gm
Synthetic nacreous pigments are either obtained from Resin
mica flakes or 9"0 gm
platcletscoatedwith bismuth oxychloride or titanium Plasticizer
dioxide. Synthetic 4.8 gm
nacreouspigments are cheaperthan natural products. Solvent 60.5 gm
(8) Perfume (others) : This is added basically Colour 0.5 gm
to mark the odour ol
the other ingredients. The perfume need not Perfume q.s.
be strong. Normally
synthetic perfumes are preferred. But it should not l)i:;solveall the ingredientsin the solvent gradually.
destabilizethe colour
or product.
Fo r m u l a 2
Application
Nitrocellulose 7.0 gm
Application techniqueof nair lacquersis very important Dibutyl phthalate 5.0 gm
to get good
effect' The nail lacquers can be appiied differently. pres"ent Polyvinyl acetate 8.0 gm
day
products are mainly applied directly, several times, Methylene chloride 29.4 gm
to iet a good, even
and firm coat. Ethylene glycol monomethyl ether 28.0 gm
But to get more attractive appearance,sometimes,the Diethyl glycol monomethyl ether 2.0 gm
whole applica-
tion is done stepwise. First a basecoat is appriedprior Ethyl alcohol 14.0 gm
to the application
of coloured nail enamel" This is b crear concentrated Perfume oil 6.0 gm
racqueibase an.r
forms an even surrfaceand helps the distribution of Colour 0.5 em
subsequentafprica,
tion properly. T'he' the corouredlacquer is applied.
Finaily a top coar
or hardelreris used o'er the coloured lacquer. This is For m ula3
basicairy ct"o, Nitrocellulose
lacquer base with lerssplasticizer but rncireresin. " 13.0 gm
Dioctyl adipate 13.5 gm
Sometintesfor 14ulckdr3,isl1'
;rn aerosoi spra1,is applied, rvhich evapo. Triethyl phosphate 5.5 gm
rates the solvelir{iar:lr,l-
Camphor 3.0 grn
,Acetone 3.0 gm
Ethylene glycol monomethyl ether 35.0 gur
Colour 0.4 sm
 190 A HANDBOOKOF COSMETICS
I h 16 NAIL LAQUERS
AND REMOVERS I9I
Formula 4
Nitrocellulose 4.0 gm lo solvent are butyl, propyl, amyl alcohols, monoalkyl ethers of dihydric
Plasticizer 4.0 grn rrlcoholslike mgthyl and ethyl ethers of ethylene glycol and monoethyl
Polypropyl methacrylate 18.6gm rtlicrls of diethylene glycol. They are odourless and less volatile.
Butyl acetate 23.9 gm Arrolher good solvent which is suggestedby several workers is garnma-
Ethyl alcohol 25.6 gm vtrlcrolactone" r
Toluene 23.4 gm lratting agents used to prevent too much drying effect are vegetable
Colour 0.5 gm ,rils like castoroil, lanolin and its derivatives,faffy alcohols etc.
Lacquer Removers 'l o overcomethe unpleaszint
odour of solvents3-10% of inexpensive
These products are also called nail cleansers. They are totally lLrral volatile fragrance can be incorporated. Examples are orange oil,
different from other cleansers,such as hair, skin and teeth cleansers,as lcrl)cnes,terpineol etc. which also act as solvents.
nail cleansers are required to remove only nail lacquers whereas others
are used to remove greasy materials, dirt, dust, etc. As nail cleansersare Formula5
required to be applied on a smooth and highly resistantsurface, compo- Butyl acetate 15.0 gm
sition can be different. These preparations rarely come in contact with Ethylene glycol monoethyl ether 80.0 gm
the surrounding skin, which is not so in the case of other cleansers. So, Propylene glycol ricinoleate 5.0 gm
the chanceof damage is much Iessthan shampoosor other cleansers. Perfume q.s.

Basically all lacquer removers should contain solvent or mixture of Prepareby simple solution.
solvents which can dissolvethe nail lacquer. An ideal lacquerremover
Fo r m u l a 6
should have the followins characteristics-
Castor oil 3.0 gm
(1) It should not be too volatile to evaporateduring application. Diehtyleneglycol monoethyl ether 15.0 gm
(2) It should not be non-irritatingto surroundingskin. Acetone 82.0 gm
(3) It shr:uld not leave nails fatty or sticky. Perfume q.s
(4) It should not have strong degreasing effect to leave nails Prepareby simple solution.
brittle.
Formula 7
(5) It should not have unpleasantand obtrusive odour. Butyl stearate 3.0 gm
Norrnally the products contain suitable solvent like acetone, ethyl Ethyl acetate 20.0 gm
acetate,amyl acetate,ethyl butyrate or mixture of them or toluene along Butyl acetate 20.0 gm
with some fatting agents to compensatethe degreasingeffect and not to Acetone 25.0 gm
leave the nail brittle. The products are made more attractive by incorpo- Toluene 32.0 gm
rating perfume. Perfume q.s.
'Ihough acetone has an unpleasant odour and Prepareby simple solution.
strong degreasing
efltct. still it is widely used due to its good soh'ent cfraracters. Other
l ,,vul uati on
solvents,mentioned above, also have sorne unpleasantodour. Estersof
rJibasic acids such as dibutyl phthalate, dioctyl adipate are frequentl), l,ikc any other products, the tests for identity ofthe ingredients and
used as they are odourless or have very faint odour. Liquid esters of' tlrcir irrdividualquantity,checkingof colour shadeare part of the quality
higher acids like butyl stearats,i56rpropylmyristate are also 6rref"erred
as lr";t,. Apart from these,several other tests are required to be done on the
tirey are less volatile and odourless. fJther substancesusetlas solvent oi p,'r'|orrrranceand nature of the products and film produced. Sometimes
tlrt' prodrrctis evaluatedagainsta standardor establishedproduct.

L---
 r92 A HANDBOOK
OFCOSMETICS
(l) Non-volatile content : This can be done by taking a definite
amount of lacquers and applying on a plate of flat surface. Weight of
the residual film after evaporation of solvent will indicate the non-
volatile content.
(2) Drying rate : This can be done by taking the product on a flat
surface and touching the product with tip of finger at short intervals of
time to feel the tackiness. Tirne taken for disappearanceof tackiness is
noted.
(3) Smoothness : This is the character of the film. The hlm is
applied on a surface and the surface characteristics of the fihn are
studied microscopically.
(4) Hardness : This is the measure of the hardnessof film. After
application of the film on a flat surface the hardness in measured by
applying pressuremechanically.
(5) Adhesion : This is the measurementof adhesion characterof the
film with adhering surface. This is done by applying the film and then
measuring the adhesion character by trying to remove the film mechani-
cally and the fbrce required for that.
(6) Abrasion resistance : This quality is studied by applying the
film on a surface and then a mechanicar abrasive effect is uffti"o. rn"
surface characteristicsof the film are studied before and after abnasive
effect.
(7) water resistance : This is the measurementof the resistance
towards water permeability of the film. This is done applying a continu-
nus film on a surface and immersing it in water. The weights before and
after immersion are noted and increase in weight, is calculated. Higher
the increase in weight lower the water resistance.
(8) viscosity : This is arso an important character and can be
measured by any viscometer. It can simply be measuredby the flow of
lacquers from the applicator brush and comparing it with a standard or
good commercial product.
(9) stability : Stability study of the product as well as colour is also
very important and essential. This can be done by acceleratedstability
test.
CHAPTER17
" Auxiliary Products for Nails
Ar rrrcntionedin the chapter on nails, various products are available in
tlrc nrarket for the care and beautification of nails. Nail lacquers and
rtsnr()vcrsare having the largest share of them. But there are other
prrrrlucts which are used for various other purposesand care of the nails.
All llrcse products have been put under auxiliary products and are
here. They are--
'lr.iclrssedseparately
(l) Nail creams
(2) Cuticle softenersand cuticle removers
(3) Nail bleaches
(a) Nail whiteners and nail strengtheners
All these products are used for specific purposesand to maintain the
lrr'rrltlrand appearanceof the nails.
l l ) N ui l C reams
('ontinuous and frequent application of nail lacquers and ordinary
rr'ruovcrs may make the nail brittle. This can occur due to strong
,lrgrcirsing effect of the solvents of the lacquers and removers. Due to
.rrcssive removal of fatty substancesfrom nail surface the appearance
,' l l l rc nai l become sdull.
Srr, to overcome this brittleness and to maintain the normal health of
tlrc rriril and its appearancegood and shiny, some preparationsare used.
t hrc suggestionwas to apply olive oil after washing the nails by warm
rvnlcr. 'l'his normally takes a few weeks'time to achieve the intended
t'l l e cl .
Altcrnatively, an emollient cream can be used to supplement the oil
iltrl l() rotain the moisture content. These preparations mainly contain
lrur()linlurd its derivativesor other oily substancesalong with a humectant.
I lrc prcparationscan be lanolin based,absorption base or beeswax-borax
l';rrctl t:nrulsion creams. Cholesterol also has been reported to assist
rrrrl uri rl
cl i rsti ci tyof t he nails.
' Ihcsc creams are recommendedto apply once a day or three times a
rr,'r'k llicr washing the nails with warm soapy solution and then drying
193
194 A nANDBooK oF cosMETrcs I h | / AI,XILIARY FORNAILS
PRODUCTS 195
before going to bed. Suitable perfumes and preservativesare also being I lrclc is another product called cuticle oils which is used, also, for
incorporated.
'irrltcrrirrllthe cuticle. They are normally made by using oil soluble
FormulaI lt,lrrrl lirnolin or its derivatives diluted with any vegetable oil or fatty
Beeswax 15.0gm rr{l rl csl crs.
Ozokerite 2.5 gm L'rrticlccreamsor oils, on regular use,loosencuticle and keep it in a
Montan wax 2.5 gm lrcirlllry condition. These preparationsare applied using an orange stick
Mineral oil 40.0 gm tippcd with cotton wool, on the cuticle and pressing them backward,
Cetyl alcohol 2.0 gm gerrtly, and away from the nail. This improves the appearanceof the
Borax 1.5 gm r rrti t' l c.
Aluminium stearate 10.0gm ('uticle removers are used for removal of cuticles by hydrolysis and
Water 26.5 gm rrvrllirrg of the softened cuticles. This is done by using potassium
Perfume q.s. I ryrlroxide and sodium hydroxide, monoethanolamine,triethanolamine or
Preservative q.s. rrrrfrrlu carbonateeither in liquid or cream form. They are used as2-5%o
Melt all waxes and oils in a container at 75oC. Dissolve the lrr eillrer aqueousor hydroalcoholic vehicles. To counteractthe irritation
preservative in water and warm to same temperature. Mix the water r rrrrsctlby alkali normally humectants such as glycerine or propylene
solution to first mixture with continuous stirring. Add perfume at final p.lycolare incorporated. They also prevent the evaporation of water and
stage after cooling the mixture to about 45oC. in( rcirsethe viscosity of the preparations.
Water-solublegums and hydrocolloids are also used to increase the
(2) Cuticle Softeners and Cuticle Removers vrrt' osi ty. A l kal ine polybasic salt s like t r isodium phosphat e or
The cuticle is the thin fold of skin that extends over the lunula at the tetrusodiumpyrophosphatein 8-10% can also be used in combination
base of the nail. Cuticle is formed by the extension of a portion of the tvilh 2-3o/osodium lauryl sulphate or triethanolamine lauryl sulphate.
stratum coreum of the nail root by cornification of the skin at the place I hcy have milder action but are less effective. Perfume and preserva-
where skin adjoins the nail. It becomes unpleasant looking due to its trvcs ilre to be incorporatedaccording to the need and choice. Care must
irregular growth. Therefore preparationsare used to improve its appear- lx' tlkcn while applying such preparationsto prevent damage to the skin,
ance. However, this can be removed by cutting but that process is not rrnil bcd or dermatitis.
satisfactory.
Some preparations are available to take care of cuticle. They can CUTICLE SOFTENERCREAMS
soften or remove the cuticles. The most important product is cuticle For m ula2
removers. Lanolin (anhydrous) 4.0 gm
Cuticle softenerscan soften the cuticle along with preventing nail to Beeswax (white) 1.0 gm
become brittle and ribbed. The preparationscan be cream type or lotion Petroleumjelly 95.0 gm
type. They contain lanolin or its derivatives or quaternary ammonium Perfume q.s.
compounds which soften the cuticle to help in mechanical removal.
LOTIONS
Quaternary ammonium compounds such as cetyl pyridinium chloride, Formula3
stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride, soften the cuticle by their gm
Stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride 1.5
affinity for protein and are used in 3-5%. These substancesalso act as a 5.0 gm
Alcohol
bactericidal. Urea can promote the swelling of keratin and softening of 1.5 gm
Diethyl phthalate
cuticle whereas lanolin or isopropyl myristate gives emollient action. 'Io 92.0 gm
Water
make it viscous and to market it in tubes, methyl cellulose or q.s.
Perfume
hydroxypropyl ethyl cellulose is incorporated in suitable proportion. q.s.
Preservative
 t96
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
TI, II A II\II,IA R Y I'R ODU C TS FOR N A ILS 197
il CUTICLE OILS
Formula4 llrr= lrrotlucts are marketed either in solution or in cream forms.
L rq u td l a n o l i n I iearrrl1;rl,r'sllrc application easier. The product can be marketed in
Castor oil 75.0gm
25.0gm ii*r lrr, l, ,,y:;lcrns. One containing bleaching agent and the other con-
Perfume.
q.s. tailirtp ir(r(l or alkali to attain intendedpH of reaction.

Formula5 . For m ula9

Llqurct lanolin
75.0 gm I lydrochloric acid (concentrated) 0.4 gm
Isopropyl myristate (i l yceri n e
25.0 gm 10. 0 gm
Perfume
q.s. Water 89.6 em

CUTICLE REMOVERS Fo r m u l a l 0

u llydrogenperoxide(3% 10 vol.) 73.5 gm

potassiumhrd.o*i#.rut" Arnmonia 0.5 gm
Glycerine 2.0 gm
ltosewater 26.0 gm
Water 20.0 gm
I'reservative q"s.
perfume 78.0 gm
preservative q.s. For m ula1l
q.s. Beeswax 10.0gm
t Paraffin wax 5.0 gm
potassium
hrd.o*i#.rr,u Mineral oil 46.0 gm
Glycerine 3.5 gm
Pumicepowder 8.0 gm
propylene 15.0gm
Borax 0.5 gm
Alcohol 5.0 gm
Water 30.0 gm
Water 25.0 gm
Perfume q.s.
' perfume 51.5grn
q.s. l{l NIrll Whiteners and Strengtheners
t I lrr";c products are not much in use nowadays. They are presently
Trisodiumohoroh#.ru,"
10.0gm rr-,-rlr;lr(,|y,as use of nail lacquershas increased.
Glycerine
Sodiumlauryl ethersulphate 20.0 gm l'lirrl wlritenersare used on the outer edge of the nail to produce a
Ethoxylatelanolin aeriuut,.uJ, 3.0 gm rilrttt'r'tlp',ing. They are used as a thick paste containing either zinc
0.5 gm jelly or
or lilanium dioxide in a baseof either glycerine-tlagacanth
Rosewater 'qrrh'
66.5 gm lrilr',lr'unr ielly and beeswax mixture. Other substancesoccasionally
(3) Nail Bleaches rnsrl.;r', whiteners,are kaolin, talc, colloidal silica, etc.
These preparations l.lorv:rclirys pencils are also available which can be applied easily
are used to remove
jl"::ii,_l&ffi fi ;_il
:olorationson the nailc
ff;:::::"i:Jffi "."r"H:"g[J'J:'
i^ ...L:r_ .,
diffe
lr"nt types of stains and \\itlrrul rrrcssingproblem of creams. The pencils are normally made of
lobac;o,
or
vegetables,etc. ,rhe
cr reduction
reduction process "::
stainscun b" removed
pao".r. d"".;;;;;_':"":'j
r1en.^.r;-^ ^_ .,
-'-'D on.the Y"
rn
vrr rrr! nature
lhe stainscan be of
emoved by ei
ink,
either oxidation
\\!r\\ ilLtlcrialscontainingtitanium dioxide.
are basically used for hardeningof nails, particu-
l''l;rilstrc:rrgtheners
normallvrrqert rrdrure of stalr.
or stair. Oxidizing
Ox
normally o,o hyi
used are agents
penoxide, sodium
"..rlflndin* perborate,
perborate, zinc lrrrlr to trcat dry brittle nails. They normally containastringentsaltsand
other agents*u,^u
Other asents :_Il9en
which are ,;; ;;:':^:l:.ll''lt Zinc peroxide.
neroyirto
.are"citric
of ttut
stain
n or bleaching solutionsof chlorides,sulphates,acetate,saltsof aluminium,
,rrr'irrlu('()u:,i
acid,tartaric
acid, tarraricacid,
acia. hydroc
r,ra"^lill",T:::yrvat
hJ;";""^":;;^'
acid. :i,', :t.
Sulphiteswiith dilute rir,urunr and strontium. Also potassium,sodium or ammonium alums
use, for
used anr-i^,.:__ - ,rochloric
f^, achieving acid are also
rlduction. lrr- l\('(f. 'l'he astringentsalts are used ln l-5o/oalong with glycerine or
;,1,r1r1 lcrrcglycol for even applicationand improved penetration. Use of

L
 198 A HANDBOOKOF COSMTiI'I(I

dimethyl or diethylolthiourea solution also has been reported for .irrl

strengthening purpose.
After washing and drying off the nails the lotion is applied witlr rr CHAPTER.IS
brush. The hands are kept downward for few minutes to allow drvirr'
Further application may be made after drying, if required.
Tooth and Oral Cavity
NAIL WHITENERS
Formula 12
Titanium dioxide 25.0 gm Alrrrrlcniulceof health of the teeth and gums well is very important for
Petroleum jelly 70.0 gm Irrrrrrrpigood general health. More often than not, health of teeth and
Beeswax 5.0 gm prrrrr,,ol' a person is an indication of his general health. So, it is
Melt last two together and add titanium dioxide with trituration and nFrr",:iirryto take care of health of teeth and gums. Various preparations
mill it. !ilF il:,c(l lbr cleansing and maintenanceof good health of teeth, gum and
r,rirl r'rrvity. The products,termed as dentifrices,are used to keep the
Formula 13
Titanium dioxide r..r.tlrt'lcan, shiny and to inhibit the formation of unpleasant odour in
38.0gm
Petroleumjelly rrrlrrtlrirrrd freshen the breath. But before studying such preparations,it
62.0 gm
i! rrlx)rtant to study the anatomy of the teeth and physiology of the oral
Melt jelly and mix titanium dioxide properly and mill it.
, rt\tly und also diseasesof teeth, gum and oral cavity.
NAIL STRENGTHENERS \tr u('lure of Teeth and Physiology of Oral Cavity
For m ula 14 Il1:rcroscopically,the tooth can be distinguished into three distinct
Potash alum 3.000gm
lrirt.i {}l liee-standingcrown, the slenderneck which is coveredby gums
Glycerine 10.000gm rr'rnc(las gingiva, and the root which is embeddedin the jaw. The root
Formaldehyde 0.010gm ,,1 r'rrr'lrtooth sits within a bony socket called an alveolus.
Menthol 0.001gm
Water 86.989gm Pulpcavity
Perfume q.s. E namel
Preservative q.s. Crown
Dentin
Gingiva
Formula 15
Aluminium chloride 5.0 gm Gingivalsulcus
Glycerine 10.0gm
Cementum
Solution of formaldehyde (0%) 0.1 gm
Soft soap 1.0 gm
Alcohol 5.0 gm Periodontalligament
Water 78.9 gm Root canal

Evaluation Alveolarbone

Tests for identification of individual ingredients and their weight are Apicalforamen

essentially to be done. Also stability of the products, rheology, film Branches0f alveo!ar
vesselsand nene
characters etc. are some tests which are required to be done depending
Fig. 18-1 Schematiesectiona!view oftootkr
on the type of products. Some of these tests are similar to nail lacquers.
t9 9
 200 A HANDBOOK OF COSME'I'I('S
A sectional view through an adult tooth is presentedin Fig. rg"r
The bulk of each tooth consists of a mineralized matrix material callctl
dentin. This material is similar to that of bone but the only difference is
that it does not contain living cells. Instead, the cytoplasmic processcs
extend from cells in the central pulp cavity into the dentin. From tlrc
root canal, a narro!!'tunnel located at the root, blood vesselsand nervcs
are supplied to the pulp cavity. The blood vesselsand nervesenter int.
the root canal through the apical foramen to supply the pulp cavity.
The periodontal ligament, which is made of collagen fibres, extends
is very similar to bone. It is less resistant to erosion than dentin. Thc
exposed portion of the tooth is called crown. The boundary betweenthc:
root and the crown of the tooth is marked by the neck. The neck of each
tooth is surroundedby a shallow gingiva sulcus. The mucosa of thc
gingiva sulcus is loosely bound to the tooth. This epithelial attachmenr
of the tooth is important for preventing bacterial access to the lamin.
propina of the gingiva and the relatively soft cementurn of the roor.
Brushing and massagingof gurns stimulate the epithelial cells and makc
the attachment stronger. Breaking down of the epithelial attachmerrr
causesbacterialinfection of the gingiva and is called gingivitis.
The de'tin of the crown is covered by a rayer of a material called
enamel consisting of calcium phosphate in a crystalline form. Thc
enamel is the hardest biologically ma'ufactured substance. For thc
formation of strong and resistant enamel coating, sufficient quantity or
calclum, phosphate and vitamin D are essentiaily to be taken durins
childhood.
From cosmetic point of view only the visible and exposed parts or
the teeth are important. These are crown, neck and gum or gingivu.
Enamel of the crorvn is most important for that.
The saliva is an integral part of the environrnent of oral cavity a'rl
teeth. Knowledge of saliva is important for rnaintenanceof good healtl,
of oral cavity. salivary glands produce i.0 to 1.5 litres of saliva ear.:rr
da)'- water is the main constituent and is about 99.4v* Renraini'g
0.6%r mai'ly consists of several electrolytes,buffers, glycoproteiris
rnainly Na+, cl- and HCo3-. I-ulxicating action of the sallva is due lqr
the presence of glycoprotein called mueins. Saiiva is a mixture ol
( 'lr-l8 TOOT'H
ANDORALCAVITY 201
glandular secretions and is secreted 70Yo from submandibular salivary
glands, 25%o from parotids, and 5Yo from sublingual salivary glands.
('ontinuous sdcretion of saliva flushes the oral surfaceshelping to keep
tlrcrn clean and wet. Buffers present in the saliva maintain the pH
:,ligfrtly acidic, close to 7.0, and thus prevent the build up of acids
;rloduced through bacterial growth. Saliva also additionally contains
irrrrrrunoglobulins(Ig A) and lysozymes that help in control of oral
hircterialpopulation. Any reductionor elimination of salivary secretions
clrrsed by either radiation exposure,emotional distress,or other factors,
tlig,gersa bacterial population explosion in the oral cavity. This leads to
rccurring infections and progressive erosion of teeth and gums. The
sirliva seles several functions during eating.
(1) Lubrication of the mouth"
(2) Moistening and lubricating materials in the mouth.
(3) Dissolution of chemicals u'hich stimulate the taste buds and
provide sensory information about the material.
(4) Initiating the digestion process of complex carbohydrates,
before swallowing, by the amylase enzyme present in the
saliva.
'l'he surfaceof the normal sound tooth is smooth. The gingival tissue
rllorrgly enclosesthe neck of the tooth. Continuouslycirculatingsaliva
tcnroves the remaining food materials adhered to or between the teeth.
Arry hard ingredients present in the food rnaterialsalso polish the dental
',i l r l :rceS .
l l rnl al P robl ems
l)cntal problems can be of various types and require care. Some
lrroblcrnscan be taken care of by cosmeticsbut some need medical care
arrrlrrrcdi ci ne.
I ooth decay is caused by the aetion of bacteria that inhabit the
rnnutlr A sticky rnatrix material is produced by bacteria adhering to the
',rr l;rr:cso{ teeth. This materialtraps food particlesand createsdeposits
rr'lrrtlr is called plaque. This organic material, over the tirne, ber;omes
, irlt i[ir:d fbrrning a hard layer of tartar or dental calculus. Caleification
,'( i urs by enz:yrrratic degradationof calcium rich substancesin saliva
irn(l rc:iulldntfcrlnrationantl depositionof insoluble calciurn eompounds
orr llrt' lcclh. Rernovalof these trard layers is very difficult. N,rrmally
Ilt:rr lirnrurtion occurs at or near gingival sulcus. Brushing cannot
r{ ' rr,} v('tl ri s dcpo sit ion,even in t he ear ly st age.
 202 A }IANDBOOK OF COSMETIC]S

The deposited plaque protects the oral bacteria from the effect or
salivary secretion, thus salivary secretion cannot control their srowth.
Bacterial growth over the food remnants produces acids that slowly
erode the surface and structure ofthe teeth. This results in dental caries
CHAPTER 19
or dental cavities. The most commonly occurring bacteria S. mutans.
when reaches and infects the pulp, causes pulpitis. In such condition,
normal treatment is the complete removal of the pulp tissue, particularly Dental Care Preparations
the sensory innervation and all areas of decay. The pulp cavity is therr
packed with altemative and appropriate materials. This processis callecl
root canal.
\l ,rrrrtr' rr:rrrce of teet h clean and ir r good healt h is essent ialand also
Normal brushing of the teeth can only cover the exposed surfacesol' rl l r' )l l :utt l br everyone. This can be achievedby using var iousdent al
the teeth. so, this can only prevent the settling of the bacteria and thc
' ,11,'|rt'pilr'ationsor dentifrices. Dentifricesare the preparationsusedfor
entrapment of food. But the bacterial and the food remnants in inter-
' 1,,1;11111' thc surfacesof teeth and keep them shiny and to preservethe
proximal space or between the teeth or within the gingival sulcus cannor lr''rltlr ol'the teeth and gurns. These ptepafationsmay also expectedto
be removed by the brush. Daily use of dentar floss to keep clean these lr,-l1rirrlribitthe formation of unpleasantodours and freshenthe breath.
spacesas well as regular stimulation of gingival epithelium by massag- llr'Er.rrlrrl use of dentifriceshelps to preventoccun.enceof tooth decay. A
ing are recommended for maintenance of good oral health. Acids F",rrl rk'rrtul health increasesthe possibility of a good generalhealth.
generated by bacteria and plaque remaining within the gingival sulcus
lrrrlrrrrtance of cleaning the teeth was probably realizedalong with
for extended period of time will lead to erosion of the connections
tlri' rrctil lbr maintenanceof body cleanliness.. Several old Greek,
between the neck of the tooth and the gingiva. As a result the gum
ll.rrrirr. Iluddhist and Hebrew literary works mention the use of tooth-
appears to recede from the tooth and leads to periodontal disease. In
1t, 1,,, t'lrcw sticks and sponges for teeth cleaning.purpose. Materials
addition to these, the bacteria attack the cementum, finally leading to
rr'.r'rlrrs ingredients of dentifiices at that time were dried animal parts,
destruction of the periodontal ligament and erosion of alveolar bone.
lrerlr';irnd plant parts, honey and minerals. Several items of the early
These further lead to loosening of the tooth and thus the tooth falls our
rrrFrrr'rlicnts were found to be harmful, destroyirrgteeth, irritating oral
or is required to be removed. periodontal diseaseis the most common
nrrr r)riit. Some of these harmful substanceswere sulphuric acid, acetic
cause for the loss ofteeth.
!r' rrl. lcit(l ores,and abrasiveminerals. Over the period of time, various
Dental Preparations ',trr,lirson these substanceshave helped to identify saf'e and useful
,l rrrlrI I i cc i ngredi ent s.
To take care of various dental problems and maintain dental health
and oral cavity various preparations are available and marketed. The l)crrtiliices can be either simple cleansing dentifrices or also be
foliowing chapters will deal with such preparations. These preparations llr'r;r[ctrtic dentifrices. Therapeuticdentifricesare basically cleansing
are classified as follows- l'r,'lr;ulllionscontaining, additionally, sorne drugs or chemicals which
,h'(r{':rs(:the occurrenceof dental cariesor help in control of periodontal
(1) Dental Care Preparations
rfl'.r'il,r('. 'l-heseare achieved by the bactericidal, bacteriostatic,enzyme-
(a) Tooth pastes
rrrlrilrilirrgor acid-neutralizingqLralitiesof the drugs or chernicalsused.
(b) Tooth powders
llrr'r;1p1.'111ic dentifrices containing stannous fluoride are widely used
(c) Solid and liquid dental preparations
ptorl ttr l s.
(2) Mouthwashes
l)t'ntili'icesare preparedin paste,powder and to a lesserextent in
l r,l rrtlrrrrclbl ock for m s"

243

204 A TIANDBOOKOF COSMETI('I
Funcfions of Dentifrices
Though the primary function of a dentifrice is the cleaning of thc
accessible surfaces of the teeth, but it can have some other frinctiorr:,
also. The expected functions of a dentifrice are as follows-
(1) Cleansingof tooth
(2) Prevention of formation or removal of dental plaque
(3) Prevention of formation of calculus
(4) Polishing of tooth
(5) Reduction ofthe occurrence oftooth decay
(6) Reduction of periodontal disease
(7) Prevention or reduction of mouth odours and freshening ol
breath
Some commercial dentifrices may be performing all of the abovt'
functions and some may be fulfilling partial functions.
(r) TooTH PASTES
Tooth pastesare most popular, v;riuable and widely used preparatiorr:;
for cleansingthe teeth. It has largestshare ofdental cleansingand cart'
preparations. Though they are expensivethan tooth powders but slill
they are more preferred.
Tooth pastes are preferred becauseof the following reasons-
(l) Easy to take measured quantity and spread on the tootlr
brush.
(2) No spillage or wastage.
(3) Attractive consistency.
(4) Proper distribution in mouth.
A good tooth pdste should have following characters-
(l) It must clean the dental surface properly without arrl
scratches.
(2) Softnessshould be such that it can be easily squeezedout ()l
the tube to spread on the brush, but should not sink into tht'
brush.
(3) The consistency should remain constant in wide range ()l
temperatureduring shelflife.
(+) It should not dry, at least not quickly.
(5) It shoutd not be toxic and should not sensitizebuccal rnerrr
brane.
(6) It should not interact with the container material.
I l r l ', l )l i N 'IA L C A R E P R E P A R A TION S 205
Irrgrr.rl i cnts
'looth pastescontain several ingredients to fulfil various functions.
lrrpirt'tlicnts of a tooth paste can be classified as follows and are
rli'i(ilssc(lbelow-
( l) Abrasives and polishing materials
(2) Detergentsand foaming materials
(3) Humectants
(4) Binding agents
(5) Sweeteningmaterials
(6) Flavours
(7) Preservatives
(ti) Miscellaneous or special ingredients such as therapeutic
agents,whitening agents,etc.
( | ) Abrasives and polishing materials : These materials are also
,,rlh'tl ils cleansing materials. Abrasive is the main constituent of tooth
ptlil(-:i or tooth powders. An abrasive should have to be powder and
Irrrrrllrrrt not such that it makes scratcheson the enamel or gum. They
rre lrrclcrably water-insolublebut water-solubleabrasiveshave also been
rupp,cslcdin recent times. Abrasives should not have any unpleasant
trrstr'.srnell and also should not be toxic. Though hardness is the
Irrlrcrt'rrtcharacter of each substance,however it can, to some extent,
al,,rrrlcpcnd on particle size and impurities. Abrasives are responsible
lrl rcrrrovingfood particles lodged in the teeth. They also help to
rFrtovr some stains from the teeth. Normally the amount of abrasive is
,rl,,rrrtlurlf'of total weight of a tooth paste.
I lrc rnaterials most widely used are calcium carbonate, tricalcium
di calcium phosphat e, alum inium sulphat e, m agnesium
1rl rrr..pl 111tc,
lr l!rlltritlrrand others.
('nlcirrrncarbonate(precipitatedchalk) is the most commonly used
4l,r,rlive. This substanceis availablein different grades. They vary in
,lrrrrrly. crystal form, specific surface,particle size. Normally the very
llglrt llriulc calcium carbonateis used in tooth paste preparations. Pastes
lrrprrrt'rl rrsinglighter grade do not harden. Calcium carbonateimparts
qll,rrlirrilyto the preparation. Chalk is the native form of raw calcium
r dl l tl ]l l i tl ( :.
I rilrytlratc and anhydrous dicalcium phosphate,tricalcium phosphate
,rrr,lr rrleirrrrrpyrophosphateare important calcium salts used as abrasives
In t,rotlr pastes. Dicalcium phosphatedihydrate (Ca3HPOa.2H2O)is
rr',rlly rrsc:damongst them. These substancesare mild abrasives. Both
 206 A TIANDBOOKOF COSMETICS
the dicalcium phosphatesare odourless, tastelessand white. They are
slightly soluble in water. They are used, both, as abrasive and polishing
agent. Tricalcium phosphate [Ca3@Oa)2]is also a tasteless,odourless
white amorphous powder and insoluble in water. It also imparts mild
abrasive and polishing effect. Dicalcium phosphate imparts neutral pH
to the paste whereas calcium carbonate imparts alkaline pH. Thus
preparations containing calcium phosphates have better taste and
enhance the stability of the flavour.
Sodium metaphosphate, a water insoluble substance, has a good
abrasive efTect and used along with tricalcium phosphate. It promotes
th e lus t r eot ' t eet h .
Magnesium trisilicate is a hydrated magnesiumsilicate (2MgO.3SiO2)
and is used along with other abrasivesand polishing agents. It is a fine,
white, tastelessand odourlesspowder and insoluble in water. It acts as a
mild antacid.
Aluminium hydroxide [AI2O3.3H2O or AI(OH)3] is also used in
combination of other abrasives and polishing agents. This substanceis
available as a microcrystalline powder as well as a gel suspension. The
powder has abrasive and cleansing properties.
Calcium sulphate is occasionally used and is a mild abrasive. It
considerably influences the consistency.
Other substances occasionally used are talc, kaolin, zirconium
silicate,etc.
(2) Detergents and foaming materials : The cleansing action of
the detergentsis due to their lowering of surface tension. They help in
wetting and dispersion of powdered materials in the paste. They also
help penetration of"paste and abrasives into the fine cracks and other
places and thus assisting in removal of food particles and debris. By
their emulsification capability they help in removal of mucus. They also
help in producing foam. Soaps and various synthetic detergents are
mostly preferred.
T'hough soaps are alkaline in nature but still they are used. Specially
prepared dental soaps are available for use irr tooth pastes. As soaps
may have odour or taste, tastelessand odourlesssoaps are to be used.
S1'ntheticdetergentsare widely used in tooth pastes. Sodium laurvl
sulphateis one cf them rnostrvidely used. others are rnagncsiumlaur.yl
sulphate,sodium lauryl sarcosinate,diethyl sodium lauryl sulphosuccinate.
surfactants also lower the abrasive effect of tooth bmsh and abrasives.
I II II' I)I N IA I, C A R E P R E P A R A TION S 207
1l; Ilulncctants : Humectants,in tooth pastes,preventdrying out of
tlr, prorlrrt:t and imparl some plasticity character to the paste. The
lrrflflfilrl ol'lrumectantsused normally can vary from 5 to ljYo. However,
.!fllllr'litfr(:shigher amount of 30%,or more is used. Actual amount is
rlcrlrlrrl'orr the specific gravity of the powder mass. Substanceswith
hrwt,r :;pqrJilicgravity needs less humectant. Only glycerine, sorbitol
rrril prolrylctreglycol are widely used as humectantsin tooth pastes.
I ll\ r r'riilc irnpartsglossy characterto the product and is the most widely
u,rr,rllrrrrrrcctant.Glycerine also imparts sweetness.Sometimessorbitol
ls lrlclqrcd over glycerine and imparts more viscosity and plasticity than
glr r lrirrc. Sorbitol is also less sticky than glycerine and prevents
E F| rtt;tl i on
of w ater .
t4) llinding agents : Various hydrocolloidsare used in tooth pastes
t,r nnpr'()veand maintain the consistency. They also prevent separation
ll prrstcs.Aqueousdispersionsof the hydrocolloidsare viscous. These
Irr'rfrrrcolloids are used in l-2.5o/o. Though, once, starch,liquid glucose
rrlrl ,;irrrplcsyrup were used but slowly they were replaced by mucilages
rrf lurirya gum, gum arabic and tragacanth. Gum tragacanth is still a
rrlrlrly rrsed binding agent. The exact amount of binding agent will
rlept'rrrlon the.ib'nsistencywanted. Normally the gum is first mixed
rritlr str(licientquantity of glycerine,alcohol before adding water. This
t'{ rlrrrrclo preventformation of lumps.
( )tlrcr substances used are mucilages of chondrus or irish moss,
r lullrryrnethyl cellulose,sodium alginate,carbopols,bentonite'veegum'
6l r
(5f Sweetening materials : Sweeteningagent is very important for
t'rrll1 1llss,fs.Saccharinesodium is a widely used sweeteningagent'
t,frrflrlrfr saccharineis used in 0.05 to 0.31ok' The exact amount will
rlr;,t'rrrl 6n the amount of other materials and sweetnessof the other
trrprcrlicnts,like glycerine present. Apart from glycerine, chloroform is
irl,iil rrsodas a sweeteningagent. Alternative sweeteningagent is sodium
r r r lrrrrurtobut due to its toxicity it is banned in several countries.
((r) l'l:rvours : Flavours are essentially to be incorporated in tooth
1r;r.,t'slirr a long term effect in the mouth. The flavours normally used
rrr.' hlcrrclingof suitable oils which in combination with sweetening
produce a smooth but distinct taste in the product and also leave a
rrp,r'rrl
plr.;r\rnt and refreshing smell in the mouth after use. The flavours most
rurlt'ly rrsccl in tooth pastes are a blending of peppermirrt oil and
',lrtrrrnrinIoil or only peppermintoil. Only the finest quality flavouring
 (
208 A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
(8) Misceltaneous or speciar ingredients : These are various
sub-
stancesadditionally incorporated in the tooth paste preparations to achieve
special functions. They are listed below-
(a) colours : They are not preferred much as most of the tooth
pastes are white. But, nowadays, several coloured tooth pastes
are
available to attract the consumers attention or to mask the colour
of
some special ingredient(s) of the tooth paste formulations. Even
multicolour is also used in some products. The colour to be used should
stain removers and whiteners of teeth.
(c) Lubricants : Lubricants, are sometimes, incorporated in tooth
pastes to facilitate the paste to come out or for filling purpose.
Even if
the paste stiffens,.presenceof L0 to 2.0%ro liquid pur"ffir, irelps to allow
the paste come out without any extra pressure.
I h f H ut;Nl'lrt, (:AREPREPARATIONS 209
I h rnsiorrally several other chemical substancesare incorporated in
krrllr prrslcslirr some specific purpose or function. Pancreatinhas been
uacrl iu rrlrorrl2.0o%for'the removal of tartar withogt any damage to the
krullr cryrrrrcl. Liquid silicones are occasionally incorporated in non-
frrnnrirrgloolh pastesto form thin water repellentfilm, after easyspreading
rivcr lr:cllr and to prevent adhesion of food particles. It has to be
llrrrrrprrlutcdalong with an emulsiffing agent. Silicones are used in
rnrlslrle ;rroportionsand can be used from 0.5-45Yo. Suggestionhas
hcerr rrrrrtlcto incorporate chlorophyll in tooth pastes for deodorizing
ellpr'l irr halitosis, though there is doubt about its effectiveness at the
of 0.1-0.5% at which it is used in tooth paste.
r.rrrrrr,rrlrltion
Sorlitrrnlauryl sarcosinate,used as foaming agent in tooth paste,also
ar lc ns irrrti-enzymeand bacteriostatand also has anti-cariogenic activi-
llcc At low concentration (0.03%) it only acts as hexokinase inhibitors
hrrl rrl 0.25% it can prevent growth of bacterial flora in saliva. Alkalis
arrrl rrrcl are incorporated to neutralize acid in saliva and to prevent
rlerorrrpositionof carbohydratesand formation of acid. Strontium chlo-
rlrle. is incorporatedin tooth pastesfor the treatment of hypersensitivity.
lt ir wcll known that fluorides help in preventing tooth decay. It has
ireenol.rscrvedthat in certain conditions stannousfluoride combines with
lnnllr enamel and forms an insoluble tin oxide, tin phosphates and
r nluirrrrr{luoride which inhibit acid penetrationand thus tooth decay' In
nnlrrul fbrmulation condition, stannous fluoride or other fluorides
rleprndc and thus an ac.idic pH is maintained for the formulation for
rtnlrilizingsuch substances.
l ' ornrul uti ons
licvoral combinations of tooth paste preparations are mentioned
hehrw lbr a comprehensiveidea.
(ioncral Method of Preparation
'l'lrcse preparationsare preferably made in stainlesssteel mixer con-
Inirrcr, lbr large scale manufacture, filled with slowly rotating blades. It
r irrr bc done in a planetary mixer or similar mixer used for semisolid
prnpalations. Small scale batch can be made in a glass container.
'l'lrc gum is mixed with a suitable quantity of humectant,without any
rvnlcr. fbr proper dispersion. Chloroform or alcohol can also be used for
rlispcrsionof binding agents. Other colloids may be dispersedin water.
h'cscrvative can be dissolved in glycerine or water. Methyl cellulose
slrould be rnixed with cold water, but ethyl cellulose should be dispersed
irr warm water. Other powder ingredients are sifted together and added
210 A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS I h I'r l)liN l Al. CARE PREPARATIONS 2t1
gradually to mucilaginous mixture with continuous gentle stirring. Then Fbrmula4
aqueous media is mixed and stirred further to get the product. Favour Tricalcium phosphate 50.0 gm
and detergent shouid be added at the last. Glycerine 8.0 gm
In an alternative method the binder is premixed with solid abrasives Propylene glycol t 14.5gm
and other powders and then poured in a suitable mixer (dough-type Sodium alginate 0.5 gm
mixer) along with aqueous solution of the humectant, preservative, Saccharine 0.05 gm
sweetening agent and mixing is done. After obtaining a homogeneous Mineral oil 1.0 gm
paste, flavour and detergent are added. Sodium lauryl sulphate 1.5 gm
Water 24.0 gm
TOOTH PASTE Preservative q.s.
Formula I Flavour q.s.
Calcium carbonate 56.0 gm
Sodium lauryl sulphate Forirula 5
1.0 gm
Stannousfluoride 0.4 gm
Glycerine 22.0 gm
Calcium pyrophosphate 40.0 gm
Gum tragacanth 1.5gm
Glycerine 29.0 gm
Water 19.4gm
Gum tragacanth 1.0 gm
Saccharine 0.1 gm
Stannouspyrophosphate 1.0 gm
Flavour q.s.
Sodium lauryl sulphate 1.5 gm
Preservative q.s.
Flavour oil 0.1 gm
Formula 2 Water 269 gm
Calcium carbonate 44.5 gm Saccharine 0.1 gm
Magnesium carbonate 1.0gm Preservative q.s.
Magnesium hydroxide 3.0 gm
Sodium lauryl sulphate Formula6
1.0gm
Dicalcium phosphate 36.0gm
Gum tragacanth 1.0gm
Calcium carbonate 13.0gm
Glycerine 31.0gm
Glycerine 20.0 gm
Oil of peppermint 1.0 gm
Gum tragacanth 1.2 gm
Saccharine 0.1 gm
Saccharine 0.1 gm
Water 18.4gm
Sodium lauryl sulphate 10.0gm
Preservative q.s.
Water 19.75gm
Formula3 Flavour q.s.
Dicalcium phosphate 60.0 gm Preservative q.s.
Sorbitol 70 16.0gm
Gum tragacanth 1.0 gm (2) TOOTH POWDERS
Sodium lauryl sulphate 1.0gm 'l'ooth powders are, structurally, the oldest and simplest preparations
Saccharinesodium 0.1 gm
irrrtl lhcy are also the cheapest. Over the years their market share has
Water 21.9 gm
lrccn rcduced by popularity and advantagesofpastes, but still they have
Preservative q.s.
Ir r.onsiderableshareof the market and population. The main problerns
Flavour q.s.
212 A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS 2r3
) I h lu t)l i N l A l . C A R E P R E P A R A TION S

encountered with tooth powders are floating of powders in air during Formula8
manufacturing, formation of cake on storage, and uneven distribution in Calcium carbonate 92.8 gm
mouth. The oldest tooth powder is reported to be camphorated chalk. Dental soap powder 6.0 gm
More or less every dental care manufacturer also markets tooth powders , Flavouring oil 1.0 gm
alongwith toothpaste products. Saccharinesodium 0.2 gm
Composition For m ula9
Basically, tooth powders contain the following four ingredienls: . Calcium carbonate 76.0 gm
(l) An abrasive Kaolin 11.9gm
(2) A surfactant or detergent Sodium lauryl sulphate 2.0 gm
(3) A sweetening agent Powdered pumice 10.0gm
(4) Flavour Saccharinesodium 0.1 gm
(5) Colour (if required) Flavour i q.s.
Abrasives used in manufacturing tooth powders are the same as used Colour q.s.
in tooth pastes,such as calcium carbonate, dicalcium phosphate,tricalcium
For m ulal0
phosphate, calcium pyrophosphate, calcium sulphonate, aluminium sul-
Calcium carbonate 84.0 gm
phate etc. Though lighter calcium carbonate is used in tooth paste but in
Tricalcium phosphate 10.0gm
tooth powders heavier grade calcium carbonate is used. Other ingredi-
Sodium lauryl sulphate 3.0 gm
ents are also selected as in tooth pastes.
Sodium perborate 2.0 gm
The following are some of the formulae of tooth powders which are Saccharinesodium 1.0 gm
prepared by simple mixing. Flavour q.s.
Colour q.s.
General Procedure for Manufacture
This is done by simple mixing. First ingredients of small quantity
are premixed and then mixed with other ingredients in ribbon-type or (J) SOLID AND LIQUID DENTAL PREPARATIONS
agitator type of mixer. Flavour can be sprayed on to the bulk or can be I lrrrrrglrthese preparationsare not much popular, but still they exist
premixed with part of some abrasive and polishing agent and then mixed lr llrt'rrrlrket and have limited use for tooth cleaning purpose.
with the bulk. Solirl dcntal preparationsare basically a tooth powder suspendedin a
,,n,tpl)ilsc and converted to solid shapes. The abrasive materials vary
TOOTH POWDERS
lri,rlr \0-80%0and the soap is about20-50o/o.They also contain flavours,
Formula 7
and occasionallycolours.
',rrt'r:lcrrcrs
Phenol 2.5 gm
Kieselguhr 57.5 gm For m ula1l
Calcium carbonate(heavy) 40.0 gm Dental soap 16"9gm
Flavour q.s. Calcium carbonate 80.0 gm
Colour q.s. Glycerine 3.0 gm
First prepare a triturate of the phenol and a small quantity of Saccharinesodium 0.1 gm
kieselguhr. This is then sieved and mixed with rest. Add colour and Colour q.s.
Flavour q.s.
flavor, mix and finally sieve once more.
llrt' srlap and calcium carbonateare mixed along with glycerine, and
r,tlr,.rrrtl{itivis and then milled and mixed with some water, if necesSarY,
 214 A HANDBOOKOF COSMETICS I h l ', 215
l )l N l A t. C 'A R E P R E P A R A TION S

to form a soft mass. Then they are made into bars, stick by mechanical
in t'it,t,tcst lras been suggestedin which teeth were brushed for 2 weeks
process.
before and after use with the help of
rrrrrlr onrlilion of teeth was assessed
use of liquid dentifrices is comparatively less than the solid ones. 1rl rnIop' .rrtpl ts.
They are basically aqueous or hydroalcohoric solutions of surfactants
{4) ('onsistency : It is important that the product, paste, should
with additional components of thickening agent, sweetener,flavour, etc.
rrrlrnl,rin tlre consistencyto'enable the product press out from the
They do not contain any abrasive as they will sediment. So the action ol'
,rrtiunL'r'. Study of viscosity is essentialfor this. Rheology of powders
these preparations on dental surface is less but the creansing effect is a
i, rrl,,oirrrportantfor proper flow of the powders from the container.
little more.
(5) pll of the product : pH ofthe dispersionof 10% ofthe product
For m ula 12 irr rr,rlcr is determinedby pH meter.
Sodium myristate sulphate 4.0 gm (0) l'oaming character : This test is specially required for foam-
Methyl cellulose 4.0 gm l"nrinp, tootti pastesor tooth powders. Specific amount of product can
Saccharinesodium 0.1 gm l,c rrrixcd with specific amount of water and to be shaken. The foam
Flavouring oil 0.3 gm tlrrrr lirlrnedis studiedfor its nature,stability, washability.
Glycerine 5.0 gm (7) Limit test for arsenic and lead : This is very importantas these
Alcohol 10.0gm rrl' lrighly toxic metals. Specific tests are there to estimate these two
Water 85.4 gm lrr,trrls. However, if the raw materialsare tested for the limit of these
The manufacturingfprocessis basically making simple solution of all trro rrrclals.productsmay not have excessof such metals.
ingredients. The hydrocolloids are first dispersed in part of the solvent
(lt) Volatile matters and moisture : A specific amount of the
prior to mixing with other ingredients. Flavour is dissolved in alcohol
and then added to glycerine and mixed to the bulk. lrrrrlue:trequired to be taken in a dish and drying is to be done till
| {lt\tiult weight. Loss of weight will indicate percentageof moisture
Evaluation ,rrrrlvolatile matters.
Identification of ingredients and estimation of their contents are 1r)) Effect of special ingredients : Special tests should be done for
essential components of overall quality control and evaluation of dental tlrr'spccialingredientsif any, like antiseptic,enzymes'etc. For each one
care products. The products, tooth pastes and tooth powders, can be .,;rt'e
i:rl and specifictest are to be done.
basically classified into foam forming and non-foam forming.
Some other special evaluation tests are as follows:
(1) Abrasiveness : various tests have been designed and reported
over the year, mostly on the set of extracted teeth. The teeth were
mechanically brushed with pastes or powders and then the effects were
studied by observation, mechanical or other means. Abrasive character
normally depended on the particle size. So, study of particle size can
also give such idea.
(2) Particle size : This can be determined by microscopic study of
the particles or by sieving or other means.
(3) Cleansing properfy : This is studied by measuring the change
in the reflectance character of a lacquer coating o.t u poly"rter film
caused by brushing with a tooth cleanser (paste or porvder). Also an
 I l r J{l M()l l l l IWA S I IE S 217

l'.r'rr lirurrclrcdin recent past particularly in advanced countries. The

irrrprr1111111 cornponentsof mouthwash preparationsare-
( | ) Antiseptic or antibacterial substances
CHAPTER-20
(2) Astringents
,(1) Deodorizing agents
Mouthwashes (4) Drug extracts
(5) Flavours
(6) Surfactants
These products are not discussed along with tooth pastes (7) Sweeteners
or tootrr (8) Colours
powders, as there are definite differences between the two
catesories or (9) Vehicle
products, both functionwise and compositionwise. The
main fuiction ol
tooth pastes and tooth powders is cleansing whereas mouthwashes Srrrrrcof the above components are essential but a few of them are
arc
basically deodorants and antiseptics. But, it should be mentioned n;rtrorurland may be incorporated according to the specific requirements
herc
that all tooth pastes and tooth powders also act as deodorants rlil(l larget population.
as they
help in the removal of food debris which causes mouth
odours o'
decomposition in mouth by oral bacteria. If any bacterioside | | ) An(iseptic Substances .
is arso 't lrcseare the active constituentsof most of the mouthwashes. Vari-
present in tooth pastesthey help in inhibiting bacterial
activity. As mosr
of the tooth pastes coXtain fragrance, they also help in rrrr,,substancesare availableto selecta suitableantisepticfor incorporating
masking thc
unpleasantodour of the mouth. Similally mouthwashes apart irr ;r rltluthwash. The choice of specific antiseptic is made according to
, from their
main function of deodorantsand antiseptics, can also help tlrt. nccd and matching with other ingredients. Substancesnormally used
in cleansing
by removing water-solubresubstancesor loose debris from rtr{ l)llenol and its derivatives, hexachlorophene,quaternary ammonium
the surfaces
or between the teeth or from oral cavitv. ,,rnrpounds,thymol, salicylic acid, formalin, boric acid, tannic aqid,
lryrlroxybenzoatesetc.
A good mouthwash should have the following characters_
( l) Good and quick antiseptic action at the dilution l'henol and its derivatives : Though there are a large number of
it is used
(2) Attractive flavor to impart a odour to the mouth ;rlrcnolderivatives having antiseptic properties,only a limited number of
(3) Sweet taste tlrcrrr are actually used in mouthwashes. The non-suitability of others
(4) Not much expensive rrrrry be due to objectionable taste, poor solubility, degradation and
(s) Non-irritant to mouth and mucous membrane rliscoloration,toxicity, sensitization propeffy and cost. The phenol and
(6) Non-toxic itr tlcrivatives and their concentration used in mouthwashesare phenol
(o l-lok), beta-naphthol(0.3-0.5%), thymol (0.1%), chlorothymol (0.05-
Composition 0 l'i{,), hexachlorophene(0.02-0.2%o), hexylresorcinol (0.05-0.1%),amyl-,
lx,xyl-, heptyl- and octyl-phenols(0.05-0.3%). Normally, phenolic com-
lrorrndsare more active in hydroxyl form than the phenolate form. Para
srrbstitutedto hydroxyl group are more active than other phenol deriva-
tivcs. Aqueous solution, normally, is more active than solutions in other
.rolvcnts. [f water solubility of any phenolic compound is poor it can be
:;olrrbilizedby using a suitable surfactant or solubilizing agent, such as
l w ocns.
Quaternary arnmonium compounds : These compounds have beert
lirund useful as antiseptics in mouthwashes. Some quatemary ammo-

216
 218 A }IANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
nium compounds are very good oral antibacterial and deodorant agents.
sometimes these compounds are used along with some other antiseptics,
such as chlorohexidines. The quaternary ammonium compounds are
effective against a wide spectrum of bacteria and normally active at
alkaline pH. one important problem with quaternary ammonium com-
pounds is their incompatibility with other compounds,particularly anionic
detergents,oil of peppermint, methyl parahydroxy benzoates,citric acid,
saccharine, boric acid etc. However, there are some quaternary com_
pounds which are highly effective over a wide range of pH and with
higher compatibility. Such stable compounds are cetyl pyridinium chlo-
ride, quarternary morpholinium alkyl sulphates etc.
euaternary
ammonium compounds should not be used in excess, as at higher
concentration they are toxic and irritant to mucosa.
Essential oils : Though they are basically used as favouring agents,
but some essential oils also have antiseptic properties. cinnamon oil,
cassiaoil, clove oil, eucalyptusoil, thyme oil, peppermintoil, anise oil,
oil of wintergreen or main constituents of these oils such as thymol,
menthol, eucalyptol, anethole and methyl salicylate have antiseptic prop-
erties.
lvliscellaneousantibacterial compounds : other individual antisep-
tics are clubbed under this category. variety of substancesof different
structures are used as oral antiseptics. Formalin, an aqueoussolution of
formaldehyde (37-4lo/o),is a powerful germicide. Formalin is occasion-
ally incorporated as l%o solution in mouthwashes and further diluted
(1:5) before use. Diluted hydrogen peroxide is also a useful germicide
and used occasionally. Boric acid (2-4./o),benzoic acid,(l-2%) are also
occasionally incorporated in mouthwashes. Iodine liberating substances
are also used as iodine is a good antiseptic. Sodium perborate, urea
peroxide or other oxygen-bearing compounds have also been recom-
mended to incorporate in mouthwashesas antiseptic.
(2) Astringents
Astringents are being used in mouthwashesfrom a long,time. Astrin-
gents are incorporated in mouthwashesfor following various actions:
(a) 'Io shrink and protect inflamed mucous surfaces.
(b) To precipitate proteins of saliva.
(c) To dirninish accumulatedmucous secretionsby precipitation.
Astringents are also known to have mild antiseptic property though
not much proof is available.
I h l tl M( tl r'IIIWA S HE S 2t9
trfrlr..l:rrr(:cs
used for astringent action are zinc chloride, zinc acetate,
clrrrnrrrrrrlrr srrlphate(alum), all in 0.05-0.2o/o. Zinc phenosulphateis
unFrfllr (l l-(l.l%o concentration. Tannic acid and its derivatives, acetic
ar t'l r rtrrt':rcid,lactic acid are also used in mouthwashesin 0.05-0.5%.
Ins irlr,,'lrolicsolution or aqueous solution containing glycerine and
frlrirr. ol trrrrnicacid havearealso used. Copper iron or manganesesalts
itr nrt rrscddue to metallic taste or staining charactel though they are
4,'l | i l l l i ( 'nl .
1l; l)rorftrrizing Agents
lt r,, nol only the bacterial growth on food parlicles in the rnouth. but
=r\r'r.ll ollrcr factors,as suggestedearlier,r'oniributeto the causeof bad
ltentlr I'athological conditions of oral cavity, teeth, throat, gastro-
trrlellilritl tract, the lungs and nasal passage may cause bad breath.
!s.vr.rccongestionor bough can also causebad breath. However, a local
rrenrtl(: can be taken to achieve <ieodorizingeffect in mouth. Quater-
ilril|' iililrnonium compounds, chlorophyllin have been found to exert
rleorLrrizing effect in oral cavity.
l,l) l)rug Bxtracts
Scvcral extracts have found use in mouthwashes. They can act as
rlqtltnllcnts, stimulants or flavouring agents. Extracts which are sug-
ge',tctl to use are tincture of myrrh, an oleogum-resin obtained from the
'rlnrr ol' commiphora molmol or other species, tincture of cinchona,
l','rrloic tincture,tincture of quillaia. etc.
I c ) l'lf,vours
Virrious flavouring agents are available for incorporating in mouth-
wir\hcs. Peppermint oil, menthol, thymol, aniseed oil, clove oil,
rrrr rrlyptusoil, cinnamon oil, anethole,fennel, methyl salicylateare widely
rr.,rtl. As mentioned earlier some of them also act as an antiseptic.
(61 liurfactants
t )ccasionally surfactants are incorporated in mouthwashes to have
welling, or detergent,or solubilizing effects. To keep all the ingredients,
Irrrrticularlywhen water content is more, in solution sometimessolubiliz-
rrrg agents may be required. Tweens or other compatible surfactants can
hc uscd. Particularly to keep flavours in aqueous media surfactants help
irr solubilization of flavours.
 r h !o M( )ril llw^stlEs
220 A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
'l'hymol 0.2 gm
(7) Sweeteners 0.5 gm
Arrethol
Sugars are not used as sweetener in mouthwashes. Saccharine.or liugenol 0.2 gm
other synthetic sweetener extracts can be used for this purpose. Cinnamonoil 0.1 gm
sodium
Saccharine 0.5 gm
Alcohol, 70.0 gm
"';:lT;shes are oftencolouredwith vegetabled!es. The usefur Water 22.0 gm
dyesare saffron,carmine,phloxine,erythrosine.They do not have
effect on the other ingredients and on their action. ' 3
Formula
Anethol 0.6 gm
(9) Vehicle
Methyl salicylate 1.0 gm
This is a very important ingredient as all the constituentshave to be Menthol 0.2 gm
kept in solution in the vehicle. Alcohol alone or in combination with Propyleneglycol 20.0 gm
water is the widely used solvent. Thus the preparationsare to be diluted Glycerine 30.0 gm
with water in definite proportion, as suggestedon the label, before use. Tween80 20.0 gm
Dilution with water may have another advantage as dilution with water, Saecharine sodium 2.0 gm
just before use, may lead to the precipitation of flavours and disinfect- 26.2 gm
Ethyl alcohol
ants. This will lead to better adherenceof the above substanceson the Colour q.s.
oral cavity and membrane and thus longer action.
Glycerine is also incorporated in mouthwashes. Use of glycerine has 4
Formula
an added advantage as it is also a sweetening agent with a flavour. It Phenol 1.0 gm
has also a demulcent and conditioning effect on mucous membrane. Boric acid 2.2 gm
Sometimes a small quantity of hydrocolloids is incorporated to increase Tincture of myrrh 2.0 gm
the viscosity. Tinctureof quillaia 10.0gm
Glycerine 5.0 gm
FormulaI Roseoil 10.0gm
Benzoicacid 1.00gm Peppermintoil 0.4 gm
Cetyl triethyl ammoniumbromide 0.60 gm Aniseedoil 0.4 gm
Resorcinol 1.00gm Cinnamonoil 0.1 gm
Thymol 0.15 gm Clove oil 0.2 gm
Methyl salicylate 0.35 gm Alcohol 68.7 gm
Eucalyptol 0.15 gm
Menthol 0.15 gm Formula5
Alcohol 22.00 gm Phenol 3.6 gm
Water 74.60 gm Solutionof sodiumhYdroxide 9.5 gm
(3.56%wlv)
Formula2 Concentratedorangeflower water 2.0 gm
Tincture of myrrh 2.0 gm Concentratedrose water 1.0 gm
Benzoic tincture 1.5 gm Glycerine 12.5 gm
Tinctureof iris 1.5 gm Water 71.4gm
Peppermintoil 1.5 gm Colour q.s.
 A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS I h ,'o MOIJI Ii WAS H E S
223
Formula6 (l) l)eodorizing effect : Locar deodorizing
Sodiumpotassiumcopperchlorophyllin 0.05 gm effect can be evaruated
Irr rrr.rrrhby using chemical analysis,surface tension
Peppermintoil 0.06 gm effects. Instru_
r' errrs rcported t o be used t o m easur e
Spearmintoil lever of odour ar e gas
,0.04gm r lrr'rrrirl,graph, fair-werls osmoscopeetc.
Sodiumcarboxymethylcellulose r Also human olfactory system
1.00gm I r* rx' rrsedto evaluate odour intensity
Solublizingagent and deodorant action. profes_
0.50 gm Elrr'l hrr'an tastersare there,for such
Saccharine sodium evaluation as used in tea industry,
0.15gm l l rl rr)l i ndustry.
Ethyl alcohol 10.00gm
Water 1'l) Stability study : Stability of the productsand their
88.20gm ql"'rrcctls to be carriedout. Activity
components
All the above products are required to be diluted of tire antisepticscan be decreased
with water before rrver rlrr: time. Also stability of the
use according to the instructions on the laber. The astringents,flavours, corours.are
dilution is l:5 for irrrr.rlirlt. This can be done by normar stability
formulae 2, 4 and 5 but formula 3 can be diluted study or accererated
by l:0. Formulae I ttrrl rrl i tystudy.
and 6 are to be diluted by l:l
('l) other speciar tests : clinicar trials
may need to be qarried out
Evaluation l.r 111111;15*ushes as they sometime contain therapeuticagents.
Tests
As mouthwashes are used for specific purposes, rtlrir lr rrrc normalry suggested,according
such as antiseptic, to the need, are effect on dental
deodorizing action etc. in the mouth, it is necessary r r' lr'". c lJbct on orar soft tissue problems,
to perform suitabre cleaning and astringent
tests to determine their effectiveness. The following efl erts. ctc.
important tests
should be carried out apart from common tests
for identity, content,
clarity.
Antiseptic property : Though the antisepticsnormally
_(l) used are
well known and estabrishedone, but their activity
in pure state is of
Iimited value for the expected antiseptic activity
in the formurations.
other ingredients present in the formuration may
modify the activity. So
it is necessary to carry out separate test for their
activity in formulation,
both lz vitro and in vivo.
(a) rn vitro antiseptic activify : This can
be carried out against
suitable oral microorganisms in a suitabre liquid
media o, aga.-inediu
against a control and determining their effectiveness
against tfi" g.o*tn
of the organisms.
(b) In ,va antiseptic activity : This can
be done by collecting
representative bacterial samples, before and after
the use oflouthwash,
and culturing and countin_gcolonies on agar prate.
The representative
samples can be collected from the mouth by rinsing
with saline solution
or swabbing with cotton and then inoculated
oi agar prate. After
incubation for a required period of time the number
of colonies wiil be
indicative of organisms present in the mouth. By
this process,optimum
time rpquired to keep the mouthwash in mouth
can arso be determined.
 APPENDIX-I
Provisions of Drugs and Cosmetics Act
as Applicable to Cosmetics

A, l)cfinition
('osmetics, as defined in the Act, mean articles meant to be rubbed,
grrrrrrcd,sprinkled or sprayed or introduced into or otherwise applied to
tlre lrrrmanbody or any part thereof for cleansing,beautifoing, promoting
rrllnrctivenessor altering the appearance.
ln the last few years the consumption of cosmetics has touched new
lrcip.htsand the curve is shooting upwards and hence the controls sought
Io bc cxercised on the drugs have been extended to a certain extent to
llre cosmetios.

tl . l mport
lror purposesof import, the cosmetics are deemed to be drugs for the
rrrr;rortof which no license is necessary and all rules applicable to
irrrport of such classes of drugs are applicable to cosmetics as well-
lkrwcver, the import of the following classesof cosmetics is prohibited'
(i) Misbranded cosmetics which contain colors other than those
prescribed or are not labeled in the prescribed manner or make
any false or misleading claims. :
(ii) Spurious cosmetics meaning cosmetics which are imitations or
substitutesfor other cosmetics or resemble other cosmetics in a
manner likely to causedeception or are imported under names of
other cosmetics or bear names of manufacturerswhich are ficti-
tious or who are truly not the manufacturers.
(iii) Cosmetics not of standardquality.
(iv) Cosmetics containing any harmful or unsafe ingredients.
(v) Cosmetics containing prescribed colors which contain more than
2 p.p.m.of arsenicor 20 p.p.m. of lead or 100 p.p.m. of heavy
metals other than lead.
(vi) Cosmetics intended for use on the eye brows or eye lashes or
around the eyes containing coal tar dyes or intermediates.
(vii) Cosmetic colored with arsenic or lead compounds.
lviii) Cosmetics containing hexachloropheneor mercury compounds.
(ix) Cosmeticswhose use is likely to involve any risk to the users.
225
226 A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
However, small quantities of cosmetics whose import is otherwise
prohibited may be imported if they are meant for personal use and form
part of a passenger,'Esbaggage and are declared tq the customs authori-
ties on being directed to do so.
C. Manufacturing r n r) ltct ords of manufacture should be kept as per ScheduleU(I) for
A license obtainable frorir the Licensing Authority is now essential
for undertaking manufacture of cosmetics. The licenses are granted on
payment of requisite fees and fulfilment of other prescribed conditions
and, in general, rules applicable to the licenses granted for the manufac-
ture of allopathic drugs are applicable to these licenses as well.
Manufacture of cosmetics containing hexachlorophene or mercury com-
pounds or misbranded or spurious cosmetics or cosmetics which are not
of standard quality is prohibited. A person licensed to manufacture
cosmetics should fulfil following conditions:
(i) The factory premises should be maintained in clean condition,
should be situated in hygienic surroundings, and should be
distinct and separatefrom premisesused for residentialpurposes.
(ii) Adequate space and staff should be provided and manufacture
should be conducted under the direction and personal superv!
sion of competenttechnical staff at least one of whom should be
a whole time employee and should either hold diploma in phar_
macy approved by the pharmacy Act or should have passed
intermediate examination with chemistry as one of the subject.
However, for small scale manufacturers, employing not more
than 5 persons, a person with general training and experience,
extending over not less than 4 years in the manufacture of
cosmetics, may be deemed to be competent technical staff by
Licensing Authority.
(iii) Either adequatefacilities should be provided on the premises for
the testing of raw materials and manufactured products or suit-
able arrangements should be made with approved institutions for
the purpose.Records relating to such tests should be maintained
for at least 3 years from the date of manufacture.
(iv) Cosmetics containing colors other than those specif,redby Bu_
reau of Standards or colors which contain more than 2 p.p..m. of
arsenic or more than 20 p.p.m. of lead or more than 100 p.p.m.
of heavy metals other than lead and eyebrows or eye-lashes etc.
containing any coal tar color should not be manufactured. The
use of arsenic or lead compounds for coloring cosmetics is also
prohibited.
227
tp.lr I I'H()Vlsl()Ns()l; DRUGSAND COSMETICACT
r v I I lrc lrrspcctorsshould be allowed to inspect premises, records
ctt , irrrd to take samples of manufactured products. An inspec-
Iron lrook should also be maintained wherein the inspectorscan
t'rrtcrthcir remarks"
lrl lcast 3 years.
At irr lhc case of drugs, licenses for the manufacture of cosnietics
rFlrrun vrrlitl up to 3lst Decemberin the year following the year of issue
afll !rrnyhc suspendedor cancelledifthe licenseefails to observeany of
rlre rrrrrrlitions,discussedabove. A licensee,aggrievedby this decision
t lrfr rrll)cirl to the State Government within 3 months of suspensionor
can also be manufacturedunder loan licensesas
' lnr r.llulion.Cosmetics
r;i llu' l:ilsc with drugs.
Arryorrc martufacturing any spurious cosmetic shall be punishable
up to 3years and fine. Personsconvicted of manufac-
,rttlr irrrprisoYtment
rrrrerol' cosmetics in contravention of any other provision are liable to
ilrlrudonmntfor a term up to I year and or fine up to Rs. 1000.
l l S nl e
No license is necessaryfor the sale of cosmetics but the dealers in
r can sell only such products as do not contraveneany provi-
',1111s1ig5
,rrrrusof'the Act and the Rules. In case a dealer is required to disclose
tlrr. illune and other particulars of the person from whom he obtained
,,rrtlclics he is legally bound to"comply with such directions.Anyone
rrlrrr lhils to disclose the name of manufacturer or sells any cosmetic in
,,rrlruvcntion of the Act and the Rules may be imprisonedfor I year or
lrrrr:rllls. 500 on first conviction or imprisoned for 2yeats and fined up
to l(r. 1000 on any subsequentconviction.
I hc following classes of cosmetics are expressly prohibited to be
rtockcd, sold or exhibited for the sale:
(i) Misbranded or spurious cosmetics and cosmetics not of a stand-
ard quality.
(ii) Cosmetics containing any ingredient which makes them unsafe
or harmful for use under the directions indicated or recom-
mended.
(iii) Cosmetics imported or manufactured in contravention of any
provision of the Act and the Rules.
'l'he inspectors may require a person not to dispose any stock of
r oslnetics.
228 A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS ACT 229
ANDCOSMETIC
OFDRUGS
'{;rrlrI l'l{()VIStONS
E. Labeling and Packing r,r, lr irnrl cvcry application. The preparation should on no account be
cosmeticssold or distributedin India, whetherthey are of Indian rrtt.rl lpl rlycing. eyebrows or eyelashessince severe inflammation of the
origin or importedfrom outside,shouldbe labeledand packedin accord- F\ r' or cvcn blindnessmay result,"
ancewith the following provisions:
\l r l l rol i c l i agrance s ol uti ons (i) The words: HARMFUL IF TAKEN
Class of Cosmelics Labeling Part ri l r l l tr:i r:i ttt-dc-col Ogne INTERNALLY
(On both Inner and Outer Labels) | i l rrl ri l i l i ng di cthyl phthal ate (ii) Content of Diethyl phthalatein each ml'

| i l :i l rr'l i c l i l r expOrt (i) Specific requirements,if anY

Cosmeticsin general Name of the cosmetics and name and address of the
(ii) Name and address of manufacturerand
manufacturer. Manufacturing License Number preceded
n a m e o f co sm e ti c o r a co d e N o .
by the letter B if the cosmetic is packed in containers
approved by the licensing authority.
having more than 10 gm.
'rlirlr t'orttaininghexachlorophene Contains hexachlorophene;not to be used
On the Outer Labels
on babies
Net contents of the package expressed as weight for
solids and semi-solids, as volume for liquids or as nu- I rrullrpastescontainingfluorides (i) Content of fluoride in p.p.m. (max.1000
merical counts, if the cosmetic is subdivided provided p .p .m .)
that this statementneed not appear if the contained cos- (ii) Date of expiry.
metic is not more than 60 ml/30 gm.

On Inner Label Only Nrr/r,: No soap is permitted to contain more than l7o hexachlorophene.
Adequate directions for safe use; warning, caution, or
special directions; names and quantities of ingredients 1,,(' ol ors
that Are hazardous. l'lrc following colors may be added to medicine and cosmetics
Hair dyes containing With the words'. Cautio,n.This product contains ingredi- grruvidcdthe common name and the percentageof the color are stated on
dyes,colors,and ents which may cause skin irritation in certain casesand tlrt lirbel of the container.The medicines or cosmeticsto which these
pigments. so a preliminary test according to the accompanying ( ol()rs are added shall noi b" deemed to be misbranded only becauseof
directions should be made. This product should not be llrc lirct of addition of colors therein:
used for dyeing the eyelashesor eye brows as such use
may cause blindness. (Equivalent labeling in local lan- l. Natural colors : Annatto, carotene' cochineal, curcumin,'chloro-
guagesis also mandatorY). phyll, red oxide of iron, yellow and black oxide of iron, titanium
dioxide.
Note : If the cosmetic has only one label, all the information required to 2. Artificial colors : Carmel.
be disclosed on the inner or outer labels shall be displayed on this label. 3. Coal tar colors :
The following instructions in English and local language should t'ttmmon Neme Color Index Chemical Nqme
accompany the package of Hair dyes. ttf Colors Number
"This preparation may cause serious inflammation of the skin in
( i r'(.on:
some casesand hence a preliminary test should always be carried out to
(.)uinazarine 61565 1,4-bis(p-Toluino)anthraquinone
determine whether or not special sensitivity exists. To make the test,
( ilcen SS
clean a small area behind the ear or upon the inner surface of the
forearm using either soap or water or alcohol. Apply a small quantity of Alizarin Cyanine 61570 Disodium salt of 1,4-bis
the hair dye as prepared for use to the area gently with soap and water. If (irccn F (o-sulfo-tulouino)
no irritation or inflammation is apparent it may be assumed that no lrirstGreen FCF 42053 anthraquinone
hypersensitivity exists. The test should however be carried out before (irccn S 44090

*
 230 A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS

CommonName Color Index Chemical Name

of Colors Number
APPENDIX-II
Yellow:
Tartrazine 19140 Trisodium salt of 3-carboxy-5-hydroxy_l-
Most Often Used Ingredients of Cosmetics
p-sulfophenyl-4-p-sulfo phenyl_azopyraozle
SunsetYellow FCF 15985 Disodium salt of l-p sulfo-phenyl_azo_2 ABSORBENTS
naptho l-6 sulfonic acid Il,-rrtorrilc Potato starch
t r r l rr u n rc a r b o n ate Precipitatedchalk
Quinoline Yellow WS 47005 Disodium salt of disulfonic 'acid of 2(2_
| , r l l o r r l a lk a o l i n Rice starch
Quinolyl)-1,3 indardoine
t orrrslarch Tricalcium phosphate
Red: ltll;'rrc:siumcarbonate Wheat starch
Amaranth 16185 li'lrr;irrcsium oxide
Trisodium salt of l(4-sulfo-inaphthylazo)
2-naptho l-3, 6-disulfonic acid
Erythrosine 45430 Disodium salt of 9-0-carboxy- phenyl-6_ ADHESIVES
hydroxy 2,4,5,7-tetrabromo-3-isoxanthone. t rrI iutrr myristAte Magnesiumsilicate
I rrlLllllnstearate Magnesium stearate
Eosin YS Or Eosin G 45380 Disodium salt of 2,4,5,7-tetrabromo_9_o_
I rthiriln stearate Talc
carboxyphenyl-6-hydroxy-3-isoxanthone lr'lnpincsium myristate Zinc stearale
Toney Red or Sudan IIr 26100 I -p-phenylazo phenylazo-2-naphtho.
Ponceau4 R I 8255 Trisodium salt of l-(4-sulpho-l-naphthyt_ AN TIOXID AN TS
azo) 02naphtho l-6;8 disulphonic acid ,{:r orbic acid Monoisopropyl citrate
Carmoisine t47720 Disodium salt of 2-(4-sulpho-l-4sulphonic Arcorbyl palmitate Nor-dihydroguaiaretic acid
acid) I t t 't i r - N a p t h o l Phenyl alphanaphthylamine
Fast Red E 16005 I lrrtylated hydroxyanisole Propyl gallate
Disodium salt of 2-(4-sulpho_l_naphthyl_
I trrtylatcdhydroxytoluene Pyrogallol
azo)-2- naphthol-6-sulphonicacid
( rlric acid Pyrocatechol
B lue: I trlirurylthiodipropionate Sodium bisulphite
Indigo Carmine 73015 Disodium salt of indigotin | )ntearyl thiodipropionate Sodium metabisulphite
.t,'t-di-tert-butylhydroquinone Sodium sulphite
Brilliant Blue FCF 42090 -5:5-Disulphonicacid I thyl gallate Sodium thiosulphate
Violet: ( inllic acid Thioglycerol
llyrlroquinone Thiosorbitol
Alizurol Purple 60725 Disodium salt of I phenylazo2 naptho l_6,
lronscorbic acid Thiourea
8-disulphonic acid I ct:ithin Thioglycollic acid
Brown: Mlrlcic acid Trihydroxybutyrophenone

Resorcin Brown 20170 Monosodium salt of 4 p-sulfophenylazo

2(2,4-xylylazo) 1,3-resorcinol ANTISEPTICS
llcthional Hexyl phenol
Black: Heptyl phenol
I lcnz.alkoniumchloride
Naphthol Blue 20470 Dis odium s alt o f g a m i n o 7 _ 5 _ n i t r o lhrric acid Methyl para-hydroxy benzoate
phenylazo-2 phenylazo 2 phenylazo_I _naph_ llcta naphthol Propyl parahydroxy benzoate
thol 3,6 disulfonic acid ('umphor Menthol
( lhlorhexidine diacetate Mcthyl salicylate
( lhlorinated bisphenol Phenol

231
232 A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
Ay,lr ll Mos'l Ol-'tEN USED INGREDIENTSOF COSMETICS
Chlorothymol Phenosulphonate COVERING AGENTS
Cinnamon oil Salicylic acid Titaniumdioxide
h rrolttt
Clove oil Thymol Zinc oxide
Mnp,rtcsittttr stearate
Cresol Tannic acid Zinc stearate
l 'r t r r p i t i r t c dc h a l k
Formalin Octyl phenol
l{ tr c stirrclt
Hexachlorophene Zinc phenosulphonate
Hexyl resorcinol
DETERGENTS
Ar vl bcta-aminopropionates Monoethanol laurYl sulPhate
ANTIDANDRUFF AGENTS MonoglYceride sulPhate
Ar yl pcptides
Cadmiumsulphide Thiol-n-oxide Sodium alkYl benzenesulPhonates
Ar yl sitrcocine
Camphor Thymol Sodium cetYl sulPhate
All.yl cther sulPhates
Menthol Zinc pyridinium Sodium decYl sulPhate
Arrrnroniumlauryl sulPhate
Seleniumsulphide Zinc undecylinate t'ur'onut diethanolamide Sodium laurYl sulPhate
Sodiumsulphacetamide Sodium di-(ethYl-hexYl)sulPho-
Iticthyl sodium lauryl sulpho-
.irrccinate succinate
BINDERS lropropanolamide Sodium di-tert-nonYl sulPho-
Carboxymethyl cellulose Methyl cellulose succinate
Chondrus Mineraloil lauryl sulphate
Mntr',rrcsium Sodium octYl sulPhate
Eithylcellulose Polyvinylpynolidone Mctlryl taurides Sodium lauryl sarcosinate
Glycerylmonostearate Soaps Morrocthanolamide Triethanol lauryl sulPhate
Hydroxypropylcellulose Sodiumalginate
Isopropytmyristate Starch EMOLLIENTS
Karyagum Tragacanth ('cstostearylalcohol Lanolin alcohol
Lanolinderivatives Veegum ( 'c l y l a l c o h o l Lanolin oil
Magnesiumstearate Zinc stearate ('()coabutter Lanolin wax
( iroundnutoil SPermaceti
coLoRs lsopropyl mYristate Stearic acid
Iron oxides Lake red D lropropylpalmitate Wool wax alcohol
Alizarin Lake red DBA lsopropyl lanolate Wool wax steroids
Alminium hydrate Lake red DCA l,urrolin
Amaranth Naptholblueblack
Carmine OrangeG FILM FORMERS
Cochineal Phthalocyanineblue Lanolin alcohol
Acacia
Chlorophyll Resorcinbrown Lanolin oil
Agor agar
Chromiumoxides RhodamineB 500 Lanolin wax
llccswax
Citrusred Saffron ('urboxy cellulose Liquid Paraffin
Eosin , Tartrazine ('cllulose acetate Methacrylate
Erythrosine Tetrabromofluorescein ( lcllulose acetobutyrate MethYl cellulose
Fluorescein Tetrachlorofl
uorescein ( lcllulosenitrate Paraffin wax
Indigo Titaniumdioxide ('ctostearyl alcohol PhospholiPids
Indigocarmine Ulramarines PolYvinYl PYrrolidone
llthyl cellulose
Iragalitered Zinc oxide (ium copal Shellac
(;um damar Stearic acid
(ium elemi StearYlalcohol
lsopropyl lanolate Tragacanth
 A I{ANDBOOK OF COSMETICS Ap{r ll M()sT OF-TENUSED TNGREDIENTSOF COSMETTCS 235
Karya gum Vinyl resin I o r o t t r t l<l i l Peanutoil
Lanolin
I l1'rlrrrgcrrrtcd vegetableoils Propyleneglycol monoricinoleate
lrupropyl myristate Tetrahydrofurfurylalcohol
HAIR COLORANTS IrlpropyI pulmitate Tetrahydrofurfurylacetate
Bismuth citrate Lead sulphate lioproJry||inoleate Tetrahydrofurfurylbnzoate
Cadmium sulphate Nickel sulphate I n r r r r l r nr l i l Tetrahydrofurfurylstearate
Camomile Ortho amino phenol I ltetlrylschacate Tetrahydrofurfurylricinoleate
Cobalt sulphate 4-nitro-1, 2-amino benzene flernrlccyl stearate
Copper sulphate Paraphenylenediamine
Copper chloride Paraaminophenol
Henna
OPACIFIERS
Pyrogallol l l y r l r o u sl a n o l i n
Lawsone
Propyleneglycol
stearate
Silver nitrate I llltr)ln)nc
Lead acetate Titanimdioxide
Reng Nlrrgnesiumstearate Zinc oxide
lioll's1l't1.t. glycol 400 Zinc stearate
t
HAIR REMOVERS
Arsenic trisulphide Rhodamine
Barium sulphide
PEARLSCENT AGENTS
Sodium stannite A l t t u r r t tol i l
Calcium sulphide 4-methyl-7-diethylamino
coumarin
Sodium sulphide h l,rrrrrruth oxychloride
Calcium thioglycol late 4-methyl-5,
7-dihydrocoumarin
Stronsilum sulphide I lr on butter
Keratinase Mica
Stronsium thiolactate ( orlor oil
Lithium thioglycollate Spermaceti
Thiglycolic acid t 1il.ilililc
Magnesium sulphide Starch
Zinc sulphide I ttlrrrrl.paraffin

HAIR CONDITIONING AGENTS

Amino acids
PERFUMES
Lanolin oil A rttlrt'rgris
Egg Ionone
Lecithin A rrrylcinnamicaldehyde
Herbal extracts Lavenderoil
Oleylalcohol llcil/yl Dcetate
Lanolin Linalol
Protein hydrolysate I lcrgnrrrot Methyl salicylate
llurt tlc rose Musk
HUMECTANTS | ||:lotcttm Patchouli
Ethylene glycol Polyoxyethylene sorbitol t lrrrrunric alcohol Phenylethyl alcohol
Fructose Propyleneglycol I llill Pineoil
Glucose Sodiumlactate I ivel Sandalwood oil
Glucosamine Sodium 2-pynolidone-5-carboxylate I rrgt'rrol Terpineol
Glycerine Sorbitol I rrrrcsol Vanillin
Mannitol Triethyleneglycol t rcrrrtriol Vetivert
Polyethylene glycol Triethanolamine t iuurrium Ylang-ylang
Polyoxyethyleneglycerin Urea I l1,.lroxycitronellal

OILS PLASTICISERS
Arachis oil Mustardseedoil ,\ r'cty Iirtcdmonoglyceride Dibutyt phthalare
Acetoglycerides Oleyl alcohol rr llulyl stearate Resorcinoldiacetate
Butyl stearate ( 'n t t r l l l t o r Triethylcitrate
Oliveoil
Castor oil Paraffinoil ( rr,iloroil Urea
( lrlorinateddiphcnylenes
 A TIANDBOOKOF COSMETICS rfir ll I\4()s l ()lrlttN USEDINGREDIENTSOF COSMETICS
237
PRESERVATIVES llerrirI r irirurrrrirlc Menthyl salicylate
Benzalkonium chloride Formic acid l l e r r rl I r r rl l r o i u n i nob e n zo a te Menthyl ortho-amino benzoate
Benzethonium chloride Hexachlorophene f l r . r t r rI r r r l i c y l u t c Methyl umelliferone
Benzoicacid Methyl chlorothymol I e l r t r r r r r t r tl l o t r a l e Methyl esculetin
Benzylparahydroxy benzoate Methyl para-hydroxy benzoate t r , l r r l r r . x c t r yolr t h o - a m i n o - Orth hydroxy biphenyl
Butyl parahydroxybenzoate Ortho-phenyl phenol lrrtt:rnlc disulphonate
Acetyl pyridiniumchloride Para-chlorobenzoicacid I lelrhtrrr Para amino benzoic acid
Cetyl trimethylammonium Para-chlorometa-cresol I l t r l r r r r y I b u l a d i e ne Paradimethylamino benzoic acid
bromide I e rr r l r l i r r Parahydroxy biphenyt disulphonate
Chlorobutanol Propyl para-hydroxy benzoate I lht I lrrr|,rr-irnrino benzoate Phenyl ethyl ortho-amino benzoate
Cinnamicaldehyde. Para-hydroxy benzoic acid I llhFl/nln(:clone Phenyl salicylate
Cresol Phenyl marcuric acetate I rihrrlroxy naphthonicacid Sodium 2-naphthol-6,8-disulphonate
Ethyl alcohol Phenyl marcuric nitrate .t { rlrlrvdroxybenzophenone Sodium 2-naphthol-3, 6-disulphonate
Ethyl parahvdroxybenzoate Salicylic acid I i l l rn c o l A - 1 0 0 0 Stilbene
Formaldehyde Thiomersol I l l l t a q o ll l Talc
lillrelyl sirlicylate Terpenyl ortho-aminobenzoate
SKIN NOURSHING AGENTS I lnrrrrrircnthylsalicylate Umbelliferone
Androgen llrlrt,lyl pnra-aminobenzoate
Prednesolone
Arachidonicacid Progestrin
Estrogen VitaminA SUNTAN AGENTS/STAININGAGENTS
Lanoleic acid VitaminD I Mlllurxy psoralen Lawsone
Lanolenicacid VitaminE I Ftlroxy psoralen Erythrulose
Itt hyrhoxy acetone Olive oil extractof cudbearand hnna
SOLVENTS/VEHICLE I rrplrrrrc Walnutiuice
Acetone Ethyl butyrate
Amyl acetate Gamma-valerolactone STJSPENDING,.{GENTS
Amyl alcohol Glyceryl monolaurate Ar ilr ill
Guargum
Arachis oil Glycerol monostearate AP- r l t Hectorite
Benzene Isopropyl myristate { | F .ti l ul c s
I{ydroxyethyl cellulose
Butyl acetate Mustard seed oil llerrtrrrritc Hydroxypropyl cellulose
Butyl alcohol Olive oil t nrlropol Methyl cellulose
Butyl stearate Peanut oil I tr lronlcr Micro crystallinecellulose
Castor oil Polyethyleneglycol t rrrllr)xymethyl cellulose Polyvinylalcohol
Coconut oil Propylene glycol l rllrrlosepowder
Dibutyl phthalate
Polyvinylpynolidone
Propylene glycol monom)fristate t olhridalsilicates
Diethyleneglycol monostearate
Pectin
Tetrohydrofurfuryl alcohol t lroldorus
Dioctyl adipate
Tragacanth
Triethylene glycol I relntin Veegum
Ethyi acette Toluene
Ethyl alcohol Xylene
WAXES
14'hitcbceswax Cetosterylalcohol
SI.TNSCREENAGENTS ( rulrhrlliawax
,dnliviray
Cocoabutter
Kaolin l'ruttntrbawax
2-Acetyl-3-bromoindazole
Lanolinanhydrous
Linalyl ortho-arninobenzoate ('crrsin wax
jelly
Amyl salicl,late
Petroleum
Magnesiumoxide ( frokcrile wax
Benzyl acctophenone
Paraffin wax
Menthylcinnarnate {'etyl alcohol Petrolatum
240 A HANDBOOK OF COSMETIC,S Aprh lV MODEL QUESTIONS 241
5. What are the advantages of compact powder over free flowins facc l4 l.rxrk at the following formula of 'compactface powderr:
powders? what are the different types of binders that are used
for riakinp
compact face powders? Ingredients Vo w/w

6. while manufacturing pgwders, why is perfume mixed along

with thc Talc 32.0
adsorbent first?
Kaolin 20.o
7 - Zinc oxide with particle size 0.02 m is used as covering agent.
commenr Precipitated chalk 25.O
on this statement.
8. Compare titanium dioxide and zinc oxide in terms of covering power Zinc oxide l5. 0
a'd
sun screeningaction. Soap (binder) 8. 0
9. A female with dry skin has a wound on left leg below the knee. Shc Iron'oxide q. s.
applied ralc on wound immediately availablein the house. Do you Perfume q. s.
supporther action?Justify your answer.
10.Is covering power of a face powder affected by the degreeof oiliness or (il) Prepare a flow chart clearly indicating the procedure you would
skin? IIow would you correlatethe two? ' adopt to manufacturethis preparationby damp compressionin an
industrialunit.
(b) Changethe aboveformula to make it suitablefor a dry and rough
skin full of minute scars. Justifv.

lhby Powders
ll Why are colouring agentsand strong perfumesnot incorporatedin baby
12. A personis sufferingfrom 'prickly hear' (strophulous)mainly distributecl powders?
on the face, neck and back. come up with a customizedformula of a l fr ,lrrstilythe statement:Only sterilizedtalc should be used in baby pow-
preparationsuitablefor this condition. Justifyyour choiceof preparation/ rl crs.
formulation,ingredientsand the proportionsin which you plan io incor-
ll ('urr the following formula be usedfor making baby powder?If yes/no,
porate them.
;rrsli l ' y.
13.which of the follorving formulationswould be more appropriatefor a
woman with oily face or will either of them work equally well? Justify Ingredients Vo w/w
your answer.
Talc ?0.0
Ingredients Formulation-l Formwlation-2 Calcium carbonate 25.O
Talc 6 3 .0g 20.0 g
Zinc stearate 4.0
Kaolin 20.0 g 20.0 g
Boric acid 0.3
Calcium carbonate (light) 5 .0 g 39.0g
I-avender oil 0.7
Zinc oxide (lolour 0.5
5 .0 g 15.0g
Zinc stearate 5 .0 g r6 Yrnr lrirvc beerr recently appointed as a 'Formulation Development Ex-
Magnesium carbonate l .o g 5.0 g hy Amcos Ltd., which targets at becoming a specialized
-,ulrv(''
Colour O5 o lmrrrrllcturing firm for baby products within next 2 years. The company
0.5 g
lr l)r()l)rlsrngat using the following formula for making a 'baby powder'
Perfume O5 o 0.5 g
I l l f,l ) nr i r l l ( ) n:
 A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS A;rrlr lv MODEL QUESTIONS 243

Ingredients Vo wrTp fr What is the role of lubricant and temperature while pouring lipstick
nrixturcin mould?
Talc 69.8 t) Why the melting point of lipstick should be higher than drop point?
Starch 20.0 l 0 Write the differencesbetween lip salve and liquid lipstick.
Titanium dioxide 6.0 il lftrw will you evaluatea lipstick after manufacturing?
Olive oil 2.O t) (a) How are 'colouredlipstick', 'liquid lipstick', 'transparent lipstick' and
Iron oxide 1.0 'lip salve' similar to and diffcrent from each other with respectto their
Perfume 1.0 use/functionand type of pigmentVcoloursincorporated.
(b) hovided to you are:
Propyl paraben 0.1 Bromo acid, solvents of bromo acid (acetone,ethyl alcohol, citral,
Methyl paraben 0.1 terpiniol, castor oil, oleyl alcohol), oil soluble pigment, alcohol-
soluble dye, insoluble red pigment, titanium dioxide, carnuba wax,
As a new experiencedenaant in the firm, give recommendations/sugges-
ethyl cellulose, lanolin, PEG (plasticizer),paraffin oil and lanolin
tions on the currentproposedformula (with respectto choseningredients&
proportions). If you find the existing formula appropriate,.lustify. For making a liquid lipstick, which ingredientswill you chooseand why?
If not,
make necessarychangesand justify the same. l l . Enumeratethe processyou would employ while formulating a lipstick
1 4 . Provided to you is the following formula:
Ch. 4 Lipstick/Coloured Make-up
l. What is the role of waxy materialsin lipsticks? Ingredients 7ow/w
2' what is the most important criterion to be kept in mind
while preparing Polyoxyethyleneoleyl ether 20.0
lipsticks?
3. can the baseingredientsusedin lipsticks have melting point Oleyl alcohol 10.0
in the range
of 36-38oCor not? If yes/no,justify. Castoroil 40.0
4' Among different waxes given below, write the order Candelillawax 10.0
of mixine for
preparing lipstick: white beeswax,candeilrawax, carnuaba Carnubawax 10.0
wiu(, cJresin
wax, cetylalcoholand cetostearylalcohol.
Bromoaciddyes 2.0
5. of 45_yearsage is using a new lipstick from past 3 days.
thw:mT On Insolublepigmentsand lakes q. s.
4"'day it startedcrumbling. Explain the probable,""roo .
Perfume q. s.
6' what happensif an antioxidant is not used in formulation
of ripstick?
List some antioxidantsthat are used while formulating lipsticks. (a) Mention the purposeof each ingredient in the above formula.
7. As a pharmacistseeing the below given formula of lipstick (b) Can this formula be used for making 'lip salve'? If not, then make
what can be
your reasoning?Correct the formula minimum changes in the formula to convert it into a lip salve
Lanolin anhydrous 10.0g preparation. Justify yoru answer.
Candelilla wax 9.0 g 15. Which type of rougeyou prefer mostly and why?
Castoroil 45.0g l(r. In beeswax- borax type rougeswhat is the purposeof usinghygroscopic
White beeswax 9'o g substances?
Ozokerite wax 10.0g
Eosin 2.o g ('h. 5 Skin Creams
Lake colours l2.Og l. What is the chemical basis of the bees wax-borax type of cleansing
Halogenatedfl uoresceins 3.0 g cream?
2 Why is all-purposecreamcalled as 'all-purpose'cream?Does it fulfil the
requirementsof all typesof creams?If yes/no,justify.
 244 A HANDBOOKOF COSMETICS
Alrlr lV MODELQUESTIONS 245
3. which types of creamsare usedfor nourishingthe skin?
Discussdifferent ('lr. (r Sunscreen/suntanand Palliative Preparations
categories(along with examples)of ingredientsused
while making these
types of creams. I Why are blacksmore resistanttowardssunburnsthan whites?
4. Differentiatebetweenthe followine: ,' Wlratis E-vitons/cm2. whereit is used?
(a) Cold crbam and vanishing cre-am
I lrxplain the useful and harmful effects of the ultraviolet radiation from a
(b) Vanishing cream and foundation cream
c(lsr)eticpoint of view.
(c) Cleansingcream and massagecrearn
'l l:xplain how zinc oxide may act as a sunscreen.In what other ways can
5. what are moisturizing rotions?How will you
evaluatea -moisturizing il sunscreenact?
lotion with respectto its functionsand physicar
characteristics? I What shouldbe the El%g.1.- for an eff'ectivesunscreenlotion?
6' Design a cosmetic formulation meant to be used
in the daytime for dry (r llow will you evaluatethe functionaleffectiveness
of a sunscreenlotion?
and scaly skin, full of minute scars. Justify your
formulatitn. Give the
compositionand use of individual ingredientsthat you / l)itferentiatebetweena sunscreenand a suntanlotion.
choose. AIso,-r
briefly explain the method of preparationof the ll. Suntanpreparationsshould contain sunscreenagents. Write whether this
s,ame.
slatementis true or false with justification.
Skin allergy/sensitivity
l) 'lil producea minimal perceptibleerythemaon Prabha'sskin, exposureof
7. Mrs. Kulkarni travers in the sun for at reast r
hour daily. She started 25.92 E-viton minutes/cm2of skin is necessary. The intensity of solar
using a new handand body lotion. Nothing happened
to her for the first radiationis 3.6 E-viton/cm2of skin. How long an exposurewill produce
15 days, but from the l6th day she sta.teo deuetoping
rashesonly on the perceptibleerythemaon her skin?
exposedportions of her body. Give probablereasons
for the same.
8. on applying preparationsmade of each of the l(l A fair illiterate male person who works as a coolie in road construction
below listed compounds, during the period of lst may to 7m may in Rajasthan observed skin
certain specific reactionswere observedon the skin
as mentionedagainst tanning. He is drinking a preparation,which containsexEactof animagus.
eachcompound:
' l'rom may 19thonwards,he startedusing a sunscreenfor 2 weeks,but no
Compound A : Severe stinging immediately after cf.fectwas found. What could be the reason/s& remedy?
irl application, which
intensified till the first five minutes and then subsided
lr Compound B : Reddening and swelling after
after2o minutes.
application only upon
exposureof skin surfaceto the sunlight for l0 minutes.
| | A male (35 yrs) living in Mumbai has sunburn. To get relief of irritation
rtue to sunburn, he is using a lotion, which has the following formula.
l)o you expecta good recovery?Justify your answer'
Compoundc : Reddeningand itching only after
14 days of conrinuous
application. Ingredients Vow/w

CompoundD : Reddeningand swelling after an hour 15.0

of application. Calamine
Name the category to which each of thesecompounds 5.0
belongs. Zinc oxide
9. Compound A has a very good sun_screening
capacity, but produced Camphor 1.0
rasheson skin (when incorporatedin a skin cream
and applied) within 5 Zinc sulphocarbonate 1.0
minutes of exposure to the sun. Nothing happened
oo tfre covered
regrons. Mineral oil 5.0
Compound B is a dye, which (when incorporated Glycerin 10.0
in a lipstick) did not
produce any reaction repeated application Rosewater 54.0
_upon -But by women staying in_
doors/outdoorson the first twenty days.- on the twenty-first day,ioth
group of women (staying indoors as well as Methyl paraben q.s.
outdoors) developed.t,.tiri,
of the lips' upon discontinuingthe use, the lips
regainedth"i, no.mul
statewithin 2-3 d.ays. After a gap of on"
when the lipstick was
re-applied,chelitis occurred in all the women
-ooth,
on that dav itseli.
 246
Apdl-lv MODEL QUESTIONS 247
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
'dispensingpharmacist',chooseone or more ingrcdienrcfrom this list to
12. Look at the followingformulation:
custom-make a preparation specifically for Mr. Ali. Incorporate any
Ingredients auxiliary ingredientson your own. Give justification of the ingredients
Vowhv
chosenand also the proportion in which incorporated.
Sunscreenagent r0.0 14. Following preparation was formulated as a 'palliative preparation' for
Nonionic surfactant 2.5 sunburn:
Ethyleneglycol monostearate 2.0 Ingredients %ow/w
hopyleneglycol 8.0
Dihydroxyacetone 3.0 Petroleumjelly 20.o
Water 74.5 Mineral oil 10.0
Perfume q.s.
Methyl salicylate 10.0
Preservative Lanolin 5.0
q.s.
Sodium stearate 5.0
What will happenift Salicylic acid 2.0
(a) there is no sunscreenagent in the above formulation? Purified water q.s.to lfi)
(b) the concentrationof dihydroxyacetoneexceeds5Vo?
(c) the concentrarion of dihydroxyacetone is lT%oand pH is 2.5? Would this formula be effective for the purposc?If yes, then justify. If
13.Mr. Ali (residentof saudi Arabia) has a very pale and sensitiveskin. He no, then make changesand give reasonsfor the same.
prefers to have a tannedcomplexion, but when'he goesout in the sun,
he Ch.7 Hair
developspainful skin burns insteadof a healthytan. To do away with
this problem, he visits a pharmacistwho dispenseshim the foliowing l. A woman of age 50 yrs has white hair on her scalp. A man of sameage
product: also has white hair on his scalp but more whitening is seen. Why does it
happcn so?
Ingredients Vow/w 2. How hair respondsto external stimuli?
p-aminobenzoicacid 5.0 3. Why rednessof hair occurs.
Methyl cellulose 0.5 4. What are the elementsin brown hair?
Glycerol 5.0 5. (a) How are skin, hair, and nails similar and how are they different
Ethyl alcohol 40.0 O) Upon which two factors does the length of hair depend?
(c) What are the probablecausesof 'alopecia areata' (patchy baldness)
Perfume q.s. (d) What effect will cuning, plucking and exposing the hair to ultravio-
Purified water q.s.to 100 let radiation for long time respectively,have on hair and its growth
cvcle?
He startsusing this 'sunscreenpreparation'beforesun exposure.Though
the amountof tan producedis negligible,he does not developa painfirt 6 What is greying of hair? What could be the probable reason(s) and
skin burn and he is partially satisfied with the preparationuntil the l5th remedy(ies)for the same?
day after which he startsdevelopinga swellingand blisteringreaction
on 7. Writc whetherthe given statementis true or false with justification. Hrir
the sun exposedregions. should be trimmed regularly because cutting the hair from the tips
(a) what are the probable reason/sfor this reacrion,which stimulatesa new anagenphase.
appearsfrom l5rh
day onwards ('h. 8-11 Hair CleansingPreparations
(b) Provided to you are: caramine, Ethyl p-aminobenzoate,
Ethyl alcohol, L IIow will you test a shampoofor its eye irritation? Mention llrc stcgri"'
Methyl p-hydroxy benzoate,Dihydroxyacetone, Ethyl p_dimetlyl amino_ brief. What is the significanceof carrying out this test?
benzoate,Zinc oxide, Methyl salicylateand Titanium dioxide. As a

lli
 248
A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS
A l rrl r l V MOD E L QU E S TION S 249
2. What are principle and secondarysurfactants
in the shampoo prepara_
tions? Explain their role in the formulation A woman using the above hair waving solution found her hair as
of liquid shampooswith
examples. lrccorning hard and cuticle becoming brittle. What might be the probable
3. Discussthe evaluationof the shampoos. rc:rson'l Suggest the modifications in the above formula accordingly
4' Designa shampooformurationfor red, ' Why the pH of alkali solution of substituted mercaptan need to be
scaly,irritablescalpskin. person
is also been found to be sufferingfrom rrririrrtained
in between 9.2-9.5?
seborrhei.O"..nuitir."'G;;"
formula,justify the use eachingredient. t Whlt is the best method to achieve cold waving and why? How the
5. Mention the main usesof surfactantsin processing time can be prolonged?
hair cleansers.
6. A manufacturerusesthe following formula 4 I)iscuss the microanatomy of the Hair Follicle. Describe, in short, the
for making a .shampoo,.
virrious phases involved in hair cycle.
Ingredients
Vow/w ('h. 13 Hair Removers
Sodium stearate | (iiven a formulation:
50.0
Sodiumchloride
3.0 Ingredients
Perfume,colour and preservatlve
Quantiry
q.s.
Purified water Barium sulphide 10.0g
q.s.to 100
Zinc sulpbide 10.0g
Me'tion the purposeof eachingredientin Glycerine 15.0g
the formulation. As a product
developmentexecuti-ve--will you proceedwith this formurao, ,uoita
yoo Polyethyleneglycol 2-5e
make some changes?If you decide to
make change/s,accoiint for each SodiumCMC 3.0g
addition/deretionof ingredientsor change
in proportion/s. otherwise, Water 9.5g
justify the appropriatenessof the currentlormula.
Perfume q.s.
7' Formuratea 'Hair tonic' for alopecra
areata. Justify your choice of Preservative q.s.
ingredients and the proportions in which
you pran to incorporate them.
AIso, write the directionsfor using the
same. What happens:
8' For sensitivitytestingof a hair dye
containrngcoal tar colour, what will (a) if barium sulphidealone is replacedby strontiumsulphide?
you do.
(b) if both barium sulphide and zinc sulphide are replacedby strontium
Ch. 12 Hair wavers, Curlers and Straighteners sulphide?
I Look at the following formula: A cosmetologistplucked the hair of 40 yrs old lady by tweezers,where
the pluckedhair is removedalong with hair bulbs. To avoid discomfort
Ingredients of pulling hair she applied benzocaine. After two days the female
Quantity t:omplainedof infection at the site of hair removal
Triethanolamine (a) What is the name of procedurethe cosmetologistused
3 .0 g
Monoethanolamine (b) To prevent such infection what might may be given?
3.0 g
Ammonium carbonate l Name the functionsof the main componentspresentin a Depilatory.
4.25g
Borax 4 Mention the purposesof main ingredientsusbd in hair lacquers.
3.25g
Sodium/Potassiumsulphate ( 'h . 14 Shaving heparations
0.5 g
Glycol sulphate I Why do shavingsoapscontain little amountof sodiunrsoap tlriln l)r,tl'.
0.65g
Water siurn soap?
89.35g
Perfume Mentionthe role of superfattingageiltsin shavingprepal:rlrorrrilt rr'.rr,r!
q .s . (.3AVa),
concentration at a concentration beyond(-50%,)rrrrrl,rt rrr' I'
250 A HANDBOOKOFCOSMETICS Aryh lv MODEL QUESTIONS 25r
concentration(5%). l. Iirllowing is the formula of a nail varnish:
Lotions uscd as after-shavepreparationscontain alcohol, emollient, anti-
septic etc. If there is skin sensitivity with the lotion what should be the Ingredients Vo w/w
remedy for this?
Nitrocellulose 18.0
Theoretically 'Lather shaving cream' should corrode the razor blade edge Sulphonamide-formaldehyde
resin 6.5
more than the'brushless shavingcream', but practically,it is the other
Dibutyl phthalate 3.0
way around. Justify this statement.
Castoroil 1.5
Why do some people prefer using 'aerosolshavingcrcam' even though it
Ethyl acetate r0.0
is more expensive than normaUconventionalshaving cream preparation
dispensedin tubes? Butyl acetate 20.o
(a) 'ilfhat is an 'after-shavepowder? How is it similar to and Isopropyl alcohol 10.0
different from 'body talcum powder'? Toluene 22.O
(b) What properties should an after-shavepowder possess? Mention Red iron oxide 3.5
one ingredient (per property) that will help in achieving those Bismuth oxychloride 1.0
desiredproperties. Titanium dioxide 0.5
7. Formulate an after-shavepreparation. Justify thc formula. Bentonite27 1.0
8. What are 'beard softeners'? When are they used?What do they contain Perfume 3.0
as their main component/s?
. Nitrocelluloseis solublein ethyl acetateand butyl acetate.
9. Justify the statement:pre-shave preparationsfor wet shaving have an
oppositeaction to that of pre-electricshavepreparations. Make a flow chart, clearly indicating the procedure you would employ
for preparing this nail varnish. Mention the order of addition, tempera-
Ch. 15 Nail ture or condition wherever applicable.
1. What is the difference betweeneponychiumand hyponychium? 4, Justify the statement: Formulations of top coat (nail varnish) contain
2. An obese(becauseof thyroid problem) T.V. actressapplies nail varnishes higher proportion of nitrocellulose and plasticizer, and lower proportion
twice daily, for 5 days in a week without any supplementationto nails. of resin.
Her nails are brittle and hard. What are all the probablereasonsfor this ('h. 17 Auxiliary Products for Nails
and give at least two important suggestions.
l. The following preparationwas made with a view to treat brittle nails:
3. A male dhobi who was always in contact with water, detergentshad red
and swollen nails, which became rough, opaque and brittle afterwards. Ingredients Vow/w
Name the infection and its origin. Also name the later stageof infection
and statehow does it occur. Glycerol r5.0
4. What is cuticle?How nail polish and nail lacquersimilar? Triethanolamine l1. 0
Perfume q.s.
Ch. 16 Nail Lacquers and Removers Purified water q.s. to lfi)
l. Justify the following:
(a) l0OVoacetoneis not an ideal solvent for removing nail lacquers. Can it be used for hearing brittle nails? Why (what effect will it have)?
(b) Castor oil is often used as a plasticizerin nail lacquers,but in Formulate a preparationon your own to treat brinle nails. Justify.
conjunction with anotherplasticizer.
Enumcratethe differencesbetweenNail bleach and Nail white.
2. Acetonealone cannorremovecoatingsof nail varnish. Some additional
1 What is a 'fingernail-elongator'?
ingredientsare also incorporatedin nail varnish removers. What are they
and why do we incorporatethem? 4 Your nails are dry and brittle and split very easily. Which ol rlre
following would you adoptto attainhealthynails?The right oprioncoul.l
 -F
253
ryrl .,l \ N 'l {)l )l i l . QTJ E S TION S
252 A HANDBooK oF cosMEt-r(,.\
Sl:utuottsfluoride 0. 4
be none, one or more than one. Give reason for either choosing arr
( 'l r l o n r l b r m 0.25
option or rejecting an option.
(a) Massaging your nails with a good brand cuticle remover once rn il Sorlium saccharine 0.05
week l'rrlil'icdwater q. s.t o 100
(b) Oral ingestion of 2.0 g of gelatin for one month
(c) Keeping the nails clean by frequent washing with soap and water [ V l . l k r . r r r i n i mu m ch a n g e /si n th e a b o ve fo r m u l a to m a ke i tsta b l e .Wh a tts
(d) Applying a fresh coat of nail varnish everyday after cleaning thc tlrc lrrttctionof each ingredient in the preparation?
previous application with a nail remover. It l'rovrtlcd to you is the following formula:
(e ) Soaking the nails in warm water followed by application of a nail
0/ow/w
cream before going to bed (once in a week) Ingredients
(0 Soaking the nails in 4Vo HCI solution (Conc. HCI in water) followed 2.0,
Potash alum
by application of a good quality nail white before going to sleep
(once in a week) Alcohol 10"0
r'o) Oraf ingestion of 2.O g of PABA for one month Purified water q.s.to 100

'mouth wash" 'asftingent

Ch. 18 Tooth and Oral Cavity Would you prefer using this preparation as a
you were given the liberty to
I. Teeth tend to develop: calculus, acquired pellicle, pla.que and caries. l,rtion'or both? Justify your choice' If
to make it an ideal mouthwash
What is the order of occurrence of these on teeth? rrrirke minimum changes in the formula
those changes? Support your answer with
2. Enumerate the measuresthat could be taken to conftoltaries. ;rrt:paration, what would be
ICirsons.
Ch. 19-20 Dental Care Preparations l,txlk at the following formula of a mouth wash:
1. Enumerate the physicaVfunctional parameters that you would evaluate in u/aw/w
Ingredients
the tooth powder.
2. Enurnerate the differences between tooth powder and toothpaste. Zinc phenolsulPhonate 3. 0
3. You own a cosmetic manufacturing unit. One of the products is tooth- Glycerol 8. 0
paste (net weight 50 grams). Make a draft of the label (including all Menthol 0.05
necessary information) for the same. Alcohol 15. 0
4. How will you evaluate toothpaste after manufacturing? Preservative q. s.
5. Name the functions of rnain ingredients present in a mouthwash. Purified water q.s.to 100
6. Comment on the statement: It is advisable to prevent the formation of
(a) To what type of customers will this product be targeted?
tartar rather than to remove it afterwards.
( b ) Wo u l d c o n su m e r sr e a d i l ya cce p tth e a b o ve co m p o si ti o n a sa m o u th -
and
7. Following represents a formula of toothpaste, with some stability prob- wash? If yes, justify. If no, then suggest some improvisations
lern/s: give reasons for the same.
( c ) G i v e . d i r e cti o n sfo r u se 'th a tyo u w o u l d i n cl u d e o n th e l a b e l o fth i s
Ingredienrs ohw/w
Product.
(d) io which other category/ies of preparations can this formula
Precipitated calcium carbonate 50.0
belong? JustifY.
Glycerol 30.0
Sodnrm lauryl sarcosinate 2.5 Miserllaneous
(HLB value-2'3) and R
Esser.rtialoils (peppernrint,clove and anise) 7.5 I You are provided with two emulsifying agents: A
Hydroxyethyl cellulose (IILB value-7.4). In what proportion will you mix the two to obtain:r
1."5
Zinc cirloride 0.5 ,c-ouisi"ieHLB value of 6-7'!
254 A HANDBOOKOFCOSMETICS

2. What are spansand tweensand what type of emulsionsthey make?Why?

3. What is silicone oil? Wherc is it employed and why? !:
4. What are the types of stability testing to which a finished product is SUBJECTINDEX
subjected? Aftrr'shavingpreparations,174 Dandruff, l8
5. Out of oleic acid, fquid paraffin and coconutoil which one is least likely All purposecreams, 86 Dental care preaprations,203
to undergooxidation? Give reason/s. r'oltlpostion,86 e va l u a ti o n ,2 1 4
6. Usually tocopherols are naturally present in fats and oils. Give the Arrtrrlandruffshampoos,120 liquid. 213
Arrlrscplicshampoos,120 pastes,204
probablereason/sfor the same.
Atrrrosphericoxidation for cold wav- powdcrs,2l l
7. What will heating the water.to l20oC in a thin film and then instantane- so l i d ,2 1 3
tng. 158
ously cooling it do? Will it demineralize the water? Enumerate the ,lrrriliary productsfor nails, 193 Dental preparations,202
processesyou would employ for demineralizing water for making ('llssification, 193 , . classification,202
cosmeticpreparations. Dental problems, 201
8 . What are volatile silicones?Where are they used and why? lleeswax-boraxcleansingcreams,63 Dentifrices, 203
gcncral manufacturing,64 functions, 204
9 . What is the full form of ceftimide? What are its uses in cosmetic
htrnuth dyes, 134 Depilatories, l6l
products?
llrxly powders, 34 characters,162
1 0 . What is LIHST of water? What is its purpose? gencralmanufacturing,35 ingredients, 162
1 1 . Suggesttwo meansby which a red toner is convertedinto a red lake. hr rlliantines,142 Disorders of the sebaceousand sweat
t2 . Siliconescan be presentin the form of volatilefree flowing liquids,higher typcs, 142 glands, t8
boiling point viscousliquids, as well as resinoussemi- solids. Justify. lttrd. 142
1 3 . Enumeratethe methodsthat can be employed for microbiological purifi- lrquid, 142 Electrolysis for hair removal, 167
llrurno-mixtures, 43 Epilatories, 166
cation of water, meant for making cosmeticpreparations.
flr ushlcssshaving creams, 172 Evaluation of
t4. What are stearic acid and oleic acid? For what purpose/s are they
dental care preparations,214
employed in cosmetic products? ('lclnsing and cold creams, 62
hair colourants, 140
1 5 . Enumeratethe functions of ethyl alcohol and soft paraffin. cJraracteristics. 63 hair grooming aids, 15l
1 6 . What is ambientcondition testingof a productand what is its significance? typcs,63 hair removers, 167
{'lrnr liquid shampoos,l17 hair tonics, 127
r 7 .Enumerate4 categoriesof cosmetic productsfor which you would carry ('rrld wave powders, 157
out skin sensitivity testing. hair wavers, 160
('old waving procedures,156
lipsticks, 58
18. Write the applicationsof zinc oxide in different formulations. lhccial methods, 158 mouth washes,222
19. How will you build quality into the final product? ( 'olours, certified, 228
nail lacquers, l9l
20. Your firm has been provided with 100 conrainers(containing 10 kg each) ('olours for lipsticks,44
p o w d e r s,3 T
of purified talc by a supplier. What would be the samplingtechnrque ('orrrnon disordersof skin, 17
roughes, 60
('otrrpact face powders, 30
adopted by your 'quality assurancedept.' to minimize variability in shampoos,l2l
results. brrrdingagents,30 shaving preparations,176
rrrctlrodsof preparation,30 skin creams, 89
21. What is 'repeafedinsult test'? What are the limitations of 'prophetic ( 'orrlctics, I
patchtest' that the 'repeatinsult test' overcomes? sunscreenpreparations,103
r 'l l s s i l 'i c a t i o n . 2 .3
22. Give two examplesof eachof the following categoryof components.In tlclinition,224 Face powders, 26
which all cosmeticpreparations are they usedand what function do they ffnl)ort rules for 224 characters, 27
perform in those specific preparation/s? l:rlrcling& packing for,227 classification,27
(a) Quaternaryammonium compounds (b) Thioglycollates rrrlrrulacturing rules for, 225 general preparations,28
(c) Vegetableoils (d) Mineral hydrocolloids :.rrlt'srules for,226 heavy type, 27
(e) Synthetic resins (f) Higher fatty acids ( r r t r (l c r c m o v e r s ,1 9 4 light type, 27
( 'utrtlc softeners.194 medium type,21

255

I
 256 A HANDBOOKOF COSMETICS
|
Foundation creams, 7l l l l l l l ,\ 251
Hair wavers, 152
general manufactures.7l ev alua t i o n , 1 6 0 Palhativcprcparatrons, 98
Foundation make-up. 73 Hair waving, principle, 152 178 Paste,trair bleacher,138
Foundation and vanishirrgcreams, 67 'r r , r l r {n y ,
Hand and body creams, 80 , 179 Permanenthair colourants, 132
"il)l)bsition,
m at er ia l s , 8 l , 1 n rl.[ r e , I 7 9 Permanentwave solutions, 155
Gel shampoos,I 18
types,83 I lprl Irlrhches,196 Pomeds,142
Harr, 105 general manufacturing,83 l J , , r lc r r $ m s ,1 9 3 Powders, 24
ailments,108 Hot wave preparations,153 l r r r l t l r S r d e r s ,1 8 0 evaluation,37
anatomy and structure, [06 lrrrttltfness, 'l 80 raw materials,24
Ingredientsof cosmetics,230
functions, 107 r'tlcrls of systemicdisease,180 Powder products, 26
Hair and hair follicles, 105 Lacquersremovers, 190 t. lrnllrrl or bacterialorigin, 180 Powder rouges, 40
Harr bleaches,136 characters,l90 I'olrortychia,180 preparation,4l
materials, 137 Lead dyes, 134 |r.rrktrnychia,180 Powder shampoos,l16
Hair care preparations,109 Lipskin, 40 rrrrtrrlion.8l Protective mechanismof the skin, 9l
classification, 109 r N , r r lc r r : r m esl o l v e nts,1 8 5
Lipsticks, 39 Psoriasis,l8
Hair cleansingpreparations,I l0 characters, 40 N r r l l i r r 'q u e r s1, 8 2
Hair colourants, 128 188 Rouge, 50
colours for, 44 I 't F l ) l r ( 'a t i o n ,
characteristics,128 l l r r r r : r t 't e r s1,8 3 anhydrouscream rouges, 54
composition, 4f
classifications,128 I r,rl,,rrr-s powder rouges, 50
evaluation,58 for, 187
evaluation,140 r r r r n l x r s i t i o n1, 8 3 emulsionrouges,55
General preparation, 47
lighteners, 136 , r l r l r r r 'r r fl so r , 1 8 6 evaluation,60
oils for, 42
permanentcolorants, 132 I liquid rouges, 57
waxes for, 4l e l , n l r r l r i o n 1, 9 1
Semipermanentcolorants, 130 Liquefying cleansingcreams,66 filrrr lirrmersfor, 184
Semi-permanenthair colourants, 130
temporary colorants, 129 general manufacturing, 66 ' ptctrcr :rl preparation, 189
I pcru Sh a m p o o s,1 1 0
Hair conditioners, 126 Liquid cream shampoos,l17 lcscentpigments for, 188
additivesfor,1l4
Hair creams, 146 Liquid hair bleaihes, 138 '1 x 'r l r r r r r c s1,8 8 antidandruff, 120
Hair curlers, 152 r lrlrtslrt'izcr for, 187 character, I I 1
Hair dye removers, 139 Measuresfor healthy hair, 108 r r r r r sI o r , 1 8 4
composition,l1l
Hair grooming aids, l4l Mechanism of hair waving, 152
classification, 115
Classification, l4l Metallic hair dyes, 134
evaluation, l2l
evaluation, 151 Methods and preparationsof hair wav,
gel shampoos,118
Hair lacquers, 149 ing, 153
general manufacturing, 116
Hair lighteners, 136 Mouthwashes,216
Iiquid shampoos, I 17
materials, 137 antisepticsfor,2lj
N r l l l r l r t 'r 1 1 , i 1 l 1 s ne 1 9r 7s,
oil shampoos,l19
Hair oils, 142 astnngentsfor, 218 w l r l c n c r s , 1 9 7
Nlrrl principal surfactants,1 12
Hair reducing agents, 159 characters, 216
f . . /u' l t , t l r / ( 't sl r l r c o l d w a vi n g , l 5 ? secondarysurfactants,I 13
Hair removers, 164 colours, 220
1 1 ,r r l r , r l r z r r rlgo t i o n s,1 5 8 Shaving preparations,169
evaluation, 167 composition,216 p l r t ; r r t r ln t l t s s a g cr e e a m s,7 4
classificatron,169
Hair setting lotions, 144 deodorizing agentsfor, 219 I r Il t| ( ) :.tl r oi l , 75
evaluation, 176
Hair sprays, 149 dry extracts for,2l9 , r r r e ;rr l r r r r r r r r l a ctu r i n7g6,
for razor, 169
Hair straighteners,152, 159 evaluation,222 I l t,
for electric shaving, 173
methods,159 flavours for,2l9 I l tl ' l rrt l rp:,l i t:ks,42
used before shaving, 169
Hair tonics, 122 surfactantsfor,219 I l r I 1l r;rl nl xxrs, Il 9
Shavingcreams,hrushless,172
compositions,122 sweetenersfor,220 , r,,,rl ,tl torrl r;rrr col ot trants , 136
l t)t) Shavingcreanls,acrosols.173
evaluation, 127 vehicle for,220 1,1,'au'tt'
rtrrl ,rl 'Y . l {)t) Shaving soaps,170
materials, 123
 APPENDIX-IN
APPENDD(-W
Bibliography
Model Questions
l. M.S. Balsam and E. Sagarin,Cosmetics: Scienceand Technologt,
Wiley-Inter science,New York, USA. lh I TheS ki n
2. l.B. Wilkinson, Harry's Cosmeticologt LeonardHill Book, London, I Nsnrc the skin surfacesthat are exemptedfrom the distributionof hair
IjK. ftrllit'lcs.
3. Rema Janardhanan,Introduction to Cosmetics,a B.Pharmacy Study ! llrw doesskin preventinfection?
Repo( B.I.T.S.,Pilani, Indi4 I Shin is the largest organ. Justify by emphasizingthe functions it
4. J.S. Jellinek, Formation and Function of Cosmetics,Wiley-Inter pctlirrms.
science,New Yorlq USA. { NErncthe substancethat is producedby tyrosine(amino acid) in the skin.
5. W.A. Poucher,Modern Cosmetics,Vol. I, lI and III, B.I. Publica- I frrrrun average5 foot, 58 kg humanof surfacearea1.58m2, what will be
tions, New Delhi, India. glandsapproximately?
tlrc total numberof hair follicles and sebaceous

6. P.P. Sharm4 Cosmetics-Formulation, Manufacturing and Quality 6 lderrtifythe following conditions:

(l) Scaly red patcheson the elbows, which bleed on removing the
Control, VandanaPublications,Delhi, India.
scales.
7. Anne Young, Practical Cosmetic Science,Mills and Boon Ltd., (h) Flaking of stratumcorneumon scalpdue to microbialinfection.
London, UK. L5hrn continuallyreplacescells, removedby wear and abrasionwith new
t. B.M. Mithal, A Tqtbook of ForensicPharmacy,Vallabh Prakashan, r elh, migratingupwardsfrom below. Then, how is it possiblethat the
SU-221,Pitampur4New Delhi-l10034,India. rrrkurrof an individual's skin remainsmore or lessconstantthroughout
tlrc Iifetime?
H Whut is strophulus/prickly heat? What is the reason for the lesions that
rlrvekrp?
u Whul is the difference between melanocytesand keratinocyteswith
te\pectto their structure,function and location?
Itl Whut are the changesthat occur in the skin due to aging?
I I Mention and briefly explain the various disordersof the oil and sweat
glnnds(presentin the skin).

I lr. I Powders and Compacts

i lincc powdershave optimum particlesize. Justify.
=' Whnt are the typical characteristicsrequired in a face powder?Give a few
cxiunplesof the raw materialsthat impart thesecharacteristics.
t Which category of ingredients are added in powders for proper spread
arrdlor proper adherencerespectively?Give examples.
.l Wlrat is the basic differencebetween a 'loose' and a face
powder?How are they similar?

23t
239
 258 rl, ,( ) K ( ( ,.,i l t r tr i

Silverdyr ,5 Sunscrccn:lg(.nt\..) |
Simulativepreparations, lO0 characlcrs,()3
Skin Sunscrccnirrdcx. l(X
anatomy& physiology,l2 Sunscreenprcparations,9O, (f I
apocrineglands,l7 protectrvemechlnisnr.9 |
appendages, l7 principle of cfl'ectivencss,()2
composition,I I general manufacturing,9-5
dermis, 16 Systemic suntan, 100
eccrinesweatglands,l7
epidermis,l3 Temporary hair colourants, 129
functions, I I Terminal hairs. 107
hair, 17 Tests for, see Evaluation
nutrients,19 Tooth, 199
nutritionand care,19 structure.199
sebaceous glands,17 Tooth pastes,204
stratumcorneum,l3 abrasive& polishingmarerillstln
stratumgerminativum,15 245
stratumgranulosum,15 binding agentsfor, 207 I
stratumlucidum,15 bleachesfor, 208
stratumspinosum,15 charactersof,2M
subcutaneous tissue,16 coloursfor, 208
thickness,14 detergents& foanningmaterials
t( Skin colourants,39 206
Hair Skin creams,64 flavoursfor,2O7
l classihcation, 64 generalpreparation,209
I evaluation.89 humecrants for,207
r Skin disorders,17 ingredientsof,205
I agingof skin, 18 lubricantsfor. 208
cornmondisorders,l7 preservatives for, 208
dandruff, 18 sweetening materials,207
r hyperpigmentation, 18 Toothpowders,2ll
L hypopigrnentation, l8 composition, 212
pigmenrarydisorders,18 generalpreparations, 212
T psoriasis,l8
Vanishingcreams,68
F skin scalingdisorders,18
generalmanufacturing,69
F Solid creamshampoos, I l8
Vellumshairs,107
Specialmethodsfor cold waving, 158
Vegetabledyes"133
L Stainingpreparation,lOt
t_- Sunburnpreparations,92 Waxesfor lipsricks,4l (
H classification. 92 Wave set preparations,153 l
evaluation,103 Wavesolutions, 157
H
fit'
,f
I Esse n tia ls o f Ph ysica l P harmaci :uti cs -C V S S ubrahmanyam
i
1 T e xtb o o k o f Ph ysica l P harmaceuti cs -C V S S ubrahmanya4
i
r 6 Biopharmaceut ics and n".T3
F " [,.b:: f;H!'"nl,llT TE"rr,r*
",
* AT /B o f Ph a r m a ce u ti cal Formul ati on -B M Mi thal
o Co n tr o lle d Dr u g De livery-C oncepts and A dvances -V yas and K har
I Ph a r h a ce u tica l En g ineeri ng -C V S S ubrahmanyamet.al .
+ Ph a r m a ce u tica l M icr obi ol ogy -N K Jai n
r Ph a r m a c u tica l Bio te chnol ogy -S S K ori and MA H al kai
t A Ha n d b o o k o f Co smeti cs -B M Mi thal and R N S aha
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r A T e xtb o o k o f Pr o fe ssi onal P harmacy -N K l ai n and S N S harma
r L a b . M a n u a l o f Ph ysical P harmacy -S ubrahmanyamand V asantharaj u
* L a b M a n u a l o f Ph ysic al P harmaceuti cs -S ubrahmanyamand S etty
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r Ph a r m a ce u tics- I - RM Mehta
. Ph a r m a ce u tics- Il - RM Mehta
I Ph a r m a ce u tica l Pr o d ucti on and Management -C V S S ubrahmanyam
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r Dr u g Sto r e a n d Bu siness Management -R M Mehta
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r A Textbook of Forensic Pharmacy -NK Jain
t Ph a r m a ce u tica l tu r ispudence -N K Jai n
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t Ph a r m a ce u tica l Or g a ni c C hemi stry -N adendl a R ama R ao
. o r g a n ic Ph a r m a ce u tical chemi stry (P c-u) -H S i ngh and V K K apoor
+ tr n o r g a n ic Ph a r m a ce uti cal chemi stry (P C -I) -P Gundu R ao
t Ph a r m a ce u tica l Ch e mi stry-I -N C C haudhryand N K Gurbani
r Pr a ctica l Ph a r m a ce u ti cal chemi stry (P C -I & II) -S i ngh and K apoor
. Pharmaceutical Analysis-I -PC Kamboj
r ,L a b o r a to r y Ha n d b o o k for Instrumental D rug A nal ysi s -B G N agavi
t Bio ch e m lstr y - P Gu n du R ao
r Eio ch e m istr y a n d Cli ni cal P athol ogy -P C D andi yaand P K S harma
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.' In tr o d u ctio n to Ph a rmacol ogy -P C D andi ya and S K K ul karni
* Ha n d b o o k o f Exp e r imental P harmacol ogy -S K K ul karni
Mathur
r T e xtb o o k o f Ho sp ita l and C l i ni cal P hatmacy -D andi ya and
r He a fth Ed u ca tlo n a n d C ommuni ty P harmacy -D andi ya, Zafer & Zafer
I Elementary Human Anatomy and Physiology
- Re g h u n a ndanan,Gopi nathanand R eghunandanan
e Textbook of Pharmacognosy -SS Handa and VK Kapoor
r Practiial Pharmacognosy -CK Kokate
+- Histo r y o f Ph a r m a cy i n tndi a, V ol -l : P harmacopP i as and Formul ari es
-nllrishansingh
V:i:]; '"||#::;';:.:1,."X'*.,"'
Vot-43 Mahadeva Lal Schroff
. A Professor Remembers -PC Dandiya

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