Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Bakery Cuisine: Pastry Gelato
Bakery Cuisine: Pastry Gelato
AN ITALIAN IN NYC
EASTER PICS
Supplemento al n. 234, gennaio 2011 di Pasticceria Internazionale - Sped. in A. P. - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. in L. 27/02/2004 n 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB TO - n. 01/2011 - IP - ISSN 0392-4718
CHOCOLATE
ENTREMETS
AND GELATO RECIPES
SUGAR, COFFEE
AND CUISINE
TECHNOLOGY
AND PRODUCT
NEWS
TOR 135
135 h 40 mm
N
E SIG
DD
RE
IS TE
R EG MADE IN ITALY
Easter Time
Emotions
and rationality in chocolate
Chocogang is coming
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PASTRY
LIVE FROM
NEW YORK CITY
Happiness is a family and three shops
It looks like the title of a film, but it is the story of BIAGIO SETTEPANI who, with his
wife Pina and their three children, have made a life for themselves in New York City
To talk about Biagio Settepani and his family is always a plea- parents and Antonino, then Pina, a woman of great altruism and kin-
sure. And not just because they are close friends, but mainly be- dness (qualities that are common to her husband), who never has
cause it means telling the story of a growing success, a real enough to give. And then there are three children: Salvatore, 25,
passion and a big heart. The story begins in Sicily, specifically in grew up in his father's laboratory, did an internship with Biasetto in
Ventimiglia di Palermo, where Biagio set off for the first time to Padua, and now leads the pastry shop on Hylan Blvd; Fina spends
New York with his twin brother Antonino and his parents. About her spare time (she recently graduated in marketing) in the other
this first phase, much useful information can be found in the se- large shop on Staten Island, because she is very good with custo-
cond edition of "Sweet Sensations of Sicily", edited by Salva- mers and with training assistants. And the little one (so to speak,
tore Farina, with pictures by Giancarlo Bononi, for Lussografica given that he is 17 years old) of the family, Joseph, has just left for
(For orders, chef7Bread@aol.com). the prestigious Culinary Institute of America (a university his brother
The family is the starting point of this article because Biagio, with studied at) and is quite happy to lend a hand in the laboratory, de-
professionalism and passion (in addition to numerous awards), owes spite his football prowess.
much to both his family of origin and to the one he has created with Settepani's pastry making combines Italian tradition with American
his wife Pina. Together and literally step by step, they "conquered" (and a touch of French), a colourful mix of cultures lived and loved,
their America, today boasting three very well established shops: which lead to an offering of cakes (from tiramisu to the keylime tart
Bruno Bakery in La Guardia Place (in Manhattan), about 130 m2, with lime cream and pastry), cookies (from Lenten cookies to "diet"
of which 100 are dedicated to sales, a laboratory of 120 m2 and ones with chocolate and cherries), single portions, frozen desserts,
another 90 m2 warehouse with 20 employees; on Staten Island, muffins, jams, bakery products and savoury pastries. But it is the
there is Pasticceria Bruno Bakery & Restaurant in Forest Ave- mignons that best express this mix of cultures and techniques that
nue (280 m2 total, of which 170 for a pastry and cuisine laboratory, go far beyond the Italy-USA tandem: about twenty mignons and forty
and 35 employees); and Pasticceria Bruno on Hylan Boulevard, with single portions, numbers that make them unique in the area; the fa-
over 600 m2 and 40 employees. It is teamwork all the way: first the vourite is the chocolate mousse.
2 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
THE SMALL OF THE FAMILY
Settepani's most recent brainchild, open a year ago, is the Pastic-
ceria Bruno on Hylan Boulevard of Staten Island, now ably mana-
ged by his son Salvatore and by chef and partner Franco Franzese.
We had the pleasure to visit and enjoy the rich lunch menu, among
a crowd of customers, mostly women taking their breaks from local
offices and from the nearby hospital.
In fact, in all family-run businesses lunches and dinners are an ex-
cellent source of income and are appreciated not only for quality but
also for the abundance of food, all with a clear Italian influence of
course: fried calamari, mozzarella in carrozza, arancini, carpaccios,
polenta, pasta of various sorts, salads, soups, meat and fish dishes,
Tuscan piadine, pizzas, barbecue sandwiches, not to mention deli-
cious desserts. Customer feedback is tangible and on weekends,
especially in stores on Staten Island, there can be one-hour queues
to eat.
Even at breakfast, rooms are crowded; there are simple and filled
croissants (almond, chocolate, cinnamon ... and salted), Danish,
muffins, croissants with chocolate cream, as well as omelettes and
savory dishes, for the classic English breakfast; Sunday brunch also
works well. Eating on-site means customers can get to know the
sweet offering, which boosts take-away sales. The offering includes
various types of bread produced in the laboratory of Forest Avenue
and obviously the super popular cupcake (see article in issue 229)
made by the Settepanis in extra large formats: the favourite, known
as Red Velvet, sells 150 pieces per week.
Services offered include catering (especially for private parties and
large family dinners) and take away, with popular sauces, especially
the tomato pesto. Lastly, there are several initiatives for customers, Above, the family group. From left: Joseph, Pina, Biagio, Fina and Salvatore.
such as courses for pastry and bread making at the shop in Hylan
Blvd, on Sunday morning for 15 people for $95: chocolates for Va- res can co-exist so close together, Biagio specifies: "Some dine at
lentine's Day, Easter specialties, Italian cookies, colourful cupcakes, Hylan Blvd and then eat dessert at Forest Ave!".
ice cream, sorbets and granitas; carrot, nut and banana cake, lemon www.pasticceriabruno.com
and blueberries; low-sugar treats, jams and jellies.
This success is the result of hard work, credibility built over the years, A united family, three successful pastry shops, and industry
and entrepreneurial flair, not only behind the scenes, but also in esteem: how do you feel when you look back and take stock
terms of marketing and image. And should anyone ask how two sto- of the long road covered?
On the left, the pastry shop in Forest Avenue; Hylan Boulevard to the right, working with Franco and Salvatore are 40 employees, spread over two shifts, from
7 to 15.30 and from 15.30 to 22. Breakfasts, lunches and dinners are a great revenue for all the Settepani shops. At Hyland Blvd on Valentine's Day, for
example, there is an average of three rounds of sessions for the romantic dinner.
2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18 3
PASTRY
When I think of this long journey, the strongest emotion is to see What advice would you give to a fellow who wants to drive
my children involved in our business, happy to continue what Pina sales at a time as difficult as this?
and I have built. I think the best advice is always not to choose short-cuts in order to
What does it mean to be an ambassador of Italian dessert in give the customer the best quality at the most appropriate price.
the States, and to be an honorary member of AMPI? These are times when you have to keep the cost of ingredients under
A lot, because it allows me to stay connected to my roots and to control, carefully looking for the best deals, and minimizing waste.
keep up with the times and trends, building useful connections even How has the clientele changed in New York in the last 10
with the best professionals in Italy and worldwide. years?
To what extent do the Americans understand Italian tradition? The general public has greater awareness regarding food, through
IRBBAF
I think there is great confusion when speaking of our Italian tradi- travel, television, internet ... But it is also more health- and weight-
tions in the States: a large percentage of Italian pastry making has conscious, and so spends and consumes less.
not kept up with the developments of the last 15 years. This means The crisis can also be felt in your area. What are you doing to
Italian desserts are still considered to be tiramisu, cannoli, the cas- face it?
sata and panna cotta, all of which is in some way influenced by Whenever you face any kind of crisis we must find ways to cut costs
American style. and reduce waste. We have also reduced the work week for emplo-
Let's talk about gelato: how do you make Americans under- yees to six days instead of seven, allowing us to contain wages.
stand the difference between ice cream and gelato? What is the ingredient that you love to work, and what inno-
It is not easy to educate the customer with regards gelato, simply be- vative technology satisfies you the most?
cause ice cream is all they know. I believe in tastings and custom les- The ingredient is chocolate, while the equipment that I appreciate
sons, while trusting the work that Italian companies have been doing most is the blast chiller, which allows us every day to speed up pro-
in these parts (Elenka, Fabbri 1905, Mec3, Pernigotti, PreGel ...). duction without affecting quality.
But it will still take some years before we see the results. What will be the future of the industry, in your opinion?
What are the most popular flavours? The format will change: family-run pastry shops will disappear and
The classics, from vanilla to chocolate, including hazelnut and a wave of more modern stores is coming, with an offering that
strawberry. goes beyond confectionery, including sandwiches, salads, soups
And are granitas appreciated? and pizzas.
Yes, especially lemon and coffee. Livia Chiriotti
Cartocci
Dough
flour g 1000
sugar g 100
oil g 200
eggs g 200
yeast g 80
Ricotta cream
ricotta g 1125
sugar g 340
candied lemon g 100
vanilla to taste
cinnamon oil to taste
chocolate chips to taste
45 81 .n--www.pasticceriainternazionale.com
2011 moc.elanoizanretniaireccitsap.www--n.
110
182
PASRTY
6 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
Cassata
Sponge
flour g 1000
eggs g 1200
egg yolks g 200
melted butter g 100
sugar g 700
honey g 100
Ricotta cream
see Cartocci on page 4
Rum syrup
water g 1000
sugar g 1150
glucose g 150
rum g 300
Line a mould with pistachio marzipan, and distribute a thin layer of vanilla
sponge on the bottom soaked with rum syrup. Fill with ricotta cream, Biagio Settepani
place another layer of sponge to close. Turn over, put a weight on top and
www.pasticceriabruno.com
freeze. When ready to display, apply a thin layer of fondant and decorate
with fruit, as usual. Photos Giancarlo Bononi
2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18 7
NEWS
8 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
INNOVATION IN
cHOcOLATE
new
Chocolate rose
Associate
member of
EASTER TIME
Inside the real shell you can taste gianduja chocolate in white and orange versions.
ph. Valrhona
Graziano
Giovannini
Montecatini Terme
Luc Eyriey, France
Antonio Le Rose,
Genova
Pasticceria Pallotti, Bologna
Stefano Laghi, Faenza
10 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
color EX
plus EX
Futura
r200
injection
comfit maxi
Via Statale, 151 - 12069 Santa Vittoria dAlba (CN) - Tel. +39.0172.479273/75 (r.a.) - Fax +39.0172.477814 - www.selmi-group.it - info@selmi-group.it
NEWS
Above, the moment of giving the prestigious award by the Consul General of France in Turin and Genoa, Vronique Vouland-Aneini. Here, group
photo with pastry chefs. On the right, Emilia and MOF Gabriel Paillasson.
12 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
EVENTS
THE ACCADEMIA
and the wedding cake
The 17th public meeting of Accademia Maestri Pasticceri Italiani, the professional association gathering some well known Italian pastry chefs,
was held in Brescia in November and was centred on the wedding cake theme, showing a colourful display of ceremony desserts. In this occa-
sion, the Trofeo Pavoni Pasticciere dellAnno 2010 (the Italian pastry chef of the year) was given to Salvatore De Riso from Minori, near Salerno
(www.deriso.it). The next public meeting will take place from 6 to 9 November 2011, probably in Parma, while the technical symposium will be
held in Brescia from 13 to 16 March. www.ampiweb.it
14 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
CHOCOLATE
EMOTIONS
and rationality in chocolate
In issue 16 (download it from www.piwwe.com) we presented ledge and teach. His creative mathematics, which brings to-
Gianluca Fusto, one of the most outstanding Italian pastry gether emotions and rationality allows him to be in continuous
chefs, who travels in the world in order to learn, share his know- evolution, as demonstrated by these recipes.
Pouring
Pouring between 38 and 45C depending on the amount of pro-
duct to spread. Smooth and constant motion, minimum pressure so
the ganaches do not have a uniform thickness.
Cutting
Guitar 3 cm by 1 cm.
Crystallization
For 24 hours at 14-18C and a humidity of 60%. Then cut them
and crystallize for 12 hours.
Decor
Place a silver decalcomania on the surface.
16 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
BAROLO CHINATO
1 recipe = 3200 g Gru sugar for coating
icing sugar g 545
Barolo Chinato gel cocoa gru g 606
Nappage Absolu Cristal g 1270 cocoa powder g 48
Barolo Chinato g 677 Place all ingredients in the mixer to obtain a homogeneous mixture.
Bourbon vanilla powder g 11
alcohol Buon Gusto g 42 Assembly
Mix all ingredients together in a graduated jug or cutter. Pay attention Barolo Chinato Gel g 2000
to air bubbles. Dress in boule creuse lait (shells). Close the follo- gru sugar for coating g 1200
wing day. Valrhona boule creuse lait (shells)
Fill shells with milk chocolate. Once crystallized, place them in a bowl
Notes and cover them with milk chocolate slightly lightened with cocoa but-
Nappage Absolu Cristal is a nappage by Valrhona with a neutral ter. Allow them to crystallize and remove the excess with the help of
taste and colour, that can be used hot or cold. a sieve.
Alcohol Buon Gusto is a food-grade alcohol.
2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18 17
CHOCOLATE
Melt the cocoa butter at 40-45C, add the hazelnut oil and cocoa butter,
heat to 45-50C. Mix the praline and start the crystallization at 24-25C.
Pour into a frame of 34x34 cm, 12 mm high, pasted on a sheet of speci-
fic paper previously chablon stenciled with dark chocolate. Allow to cry-
stallize from 24 to 36 hours at 17C and 60% humidity.
Double chablon with tempered chocolate.
First chablon with the help of a pipe directly on paper and then put in the
ganache frame. Second chablon directly on crystallized ganache with the
help of a spatula or pipe.
Pouring
Pouring between 24 and 25C depending on the amount of product to
spread. Smooth and constant motion, minimum pressure so the ganaches
do not have a uniform thickness.
Cutting
Guitar 2 cm by 2 cm.
Crystallization
For 24 hours at 14-18C and a humidity of 60%.
THE PARIANINO Then cut them and crystallize for 12 hours.
Decor
Place decalcomanias on the surface.
1 recipe = 1850 g
*Hazelnut oil was traditionally produced in Piedmont, in the Langhe (the
almonds hilly area in the province of Cuneo), and it was used instead of olive oil,
and hazelnut pralin 66% g 1300 which was too much expensive for peasant families. Nowdays this ancient
tradition revives thanks to the producer Mattia Pariani, from Cortemilia,
cocoa butter g 210 who extracts oil from the local renowned hazelnut variety, i.e. Nocciola
hazelnut paste g 260 Tonda Gentile delle Langhe-Piemonte IGP. http://pariani.blogspot.com
Pariani hazelnut oil* g 55 Gianluca Fusto
clarified liquid butter 1 g 25 www.gianlucafusto.com
18 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
www.icamprofessionale.it
I C A M L I N E A P R O F E S S I O N A L E . Y O U R I N S P I R AT I O N , O U R PA S S I O N .
NEWS
Attention to the environment and food security have allowed the Sicilian pastry chef Santi Palazzolo from Cinisi, near Palermo, to open two stores
at Palermo airport and even one in Rouen, the capital of Normandy (France), within walking distance from the famous cathedral. The restaurant is
called Tavola Calda Bistro by Palazzolo. It all started when Emmanuel Gillot and Linda Figlioli, owners of Comunico Plus, fell in love with Santi's
specialties. Today production takes place in Cinisi's laboratories and is then sent on a monthly basis directly to a deposit in Rouen. Currently on
site there is a small workshop where the various products are finished: decorations, brief bakings, and fillings; the possibility of increasing storage
space is currently under consideration.
As for future projects - Santi Palazzolo says - we are working on improving the format used in France and a project is underway for the new ope-
ning, always with the same company, of a store in Paris."
20 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
RECIPES' WINDMILL
BEYOND TIME
Almond and citrus fruit recomposed biscuit obtain an elastic and shiny texture. Add to this preparation the cold cream
brown sugar g 200 and lime peel. Mix for a few minutes. Pour into square thermoformed
thousand-bubble molds and cool.
flour g 200
butter g 200
Namelaka is the Japanese name for creamy.
raw almond flour g 200
orange zest g 1 Strawberry and raspberry stew
lemon zest g 1 strawberry puree g 300
Mix all ingredients and let rest overnight in refrigerator. The next day,
raspberry puree g 200
grate the mixture and bake at 160C for 20 minutes.
When the biscuit is cold, add a small amount of hot molten white cho- lemon juice a.r.
colate (as much as you need to bind the mixture), compact it in a square sugar g 200
steel mold, 1 cm in height, and cool in a blast chiller. pectin g 6
Heat the puree of strawberries and raspberries, mix the sugar and pec-
Namelaka cream with lime and white chocolate tin and add to the puree. Cook until thick, then add the lemon juice.
whole milk g 250
grated lime peel g 10 Assembly
Remove the frozen namelaka cream from the mold and steam with the
glucose g 12
white chablonne mass. Place the cream on a crispy base of recomposed
gelatin g 10 biscuit, pour in irregular fashion the strawberry and raspberry sauce and
white chocolate g 370 garnish with red fruit.
cream g 500
Soak 5 lime rinds in cold cream and put to one side. Boil the milk, glu- Emmanuele Forcone
cose and the rest of lime rinds. Infuse for a few minutes. Filter. Add the Vasto, Chieti
rehydrated gelatin and pour slowly over the melted chocolate, so as to Pasticceria Pannamore
2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18 21
RECIPES
AAI
Soft base % warm the juice at 75C and filter the grated rind; add the dissolved gela-
almond powder g 150 17.65 tin and, little by little, the white chocolate caramel. Separately, whip the
cream; when the chocolate-orange reaches 40C, gently mix the cream
fine caster sugar g 90 14.2
with a spatula.
moscovado sugar g 30 3.53
eggs g 220 25.88 Milk mousse %
fresh egg whites g 50 5.88 fresh whole milk g 500 22.05
fine caster sugar g 30 14.2 cream 35% fat g 50 2.20
fresh bananas gelatin 150 Bloom g 10 0.44
average ripeness g 280 32.94 milk chocolate 40% g 700 30.86
grated nutmeg to taste cocoa butter g 8 0.35
total weight of kg 0.85 100 whipped cream 35% fat g 1000 44.09
Stir in the cutter with fine blade the eggs, sugar, and ground almonds and
total weight of 2.27 kg 100
grate a little nutmeg to add flavour to the mixture. Separately, beat the egg
Hydrate the gelatin, boil the milk with 50 g of cream, pour the warm mix-
whites and sugar to a meringue. When the mixture is blended, empty it
ture over the melted chocolate, add the dissolved gelatin and emulsify
into a bowl and mix the egg whites gently using a soft spatula. Empty the
with the help of an immersion blender. At 35C add the whipped cream
mixture over a non-stick pad inside the baking tin, sprinkle the surface with
and mix gently.
bananas cut into small regular pieces, and sprinkle the surface with icing
sugar before baking. Static oven preheated to 185C for 18 minutes.
Aai gel %
Chocolate-orange cream % aai juice g 250 94.70
cream 35% fat g 390 34.45 gelatin 200 Bloom g 4 1.52
Sicilian oranges (juice) g 120 10.60 invert sugar g 10 3.79
Tarocco orange no. 1 22,08 total weight of 0.26 kg 100
Heat the juice to 50C with sugar, and add the hydrated gelatin. Aai is
white chocolate g 365 32.24
an exotic fruit from Brazil.
gelatin 150 Bloom g 7 0.62
total weight of 1.130 kg 100 Caramel icing %
Grate the Tarocco orange into the orange juice, cover with plastic wrap
fine caster sugar g 250 27.75
and leave to infuse overnight in the refrigerator. Pour the white chocolate
cut into pieces in a steel pan and bake at 120C for 30 minutes, stirring fresh whole milk g 50 5.55
every 10 minutes to caramelize it evenly. Hydrate the gelatin in cold water, glucose g 210 23.31
22 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
gelatin 200 Bloom g 15 1.66 Spread the dough to 4 mm and bake at 160C for 15 minutes, open
vanilla berry n. 1 0.11 valve. Cool the pastry, chop coarsely, sieve to remove dust and freeze
the pieces obtained, spray using a gun the chocolate mixture onto small
cream 35% fat g 300 33.30
pieces of cold sabl.
milk chocolate 40% g 75 8.32
total weight of 0.9 kg 100 Assembly
Heat the glucose, add the sugar and caramelize to a nice brown colour. Cut out two disks of soft base, diameter 14 cm, height 0.7 cm. Place in
Separately, boil the cream and milk, reduce the sugar stirring with a spoon a ring of 2 cm in height and 14 diameter. Pour the chocolate-orange
and add the pulp of vanilla. Hydrate the gelatin with water, stir the liquid cream weighing out 100 g, and sprinkle with a few pieces of sabl. Blast
mixture with the hot chocolate, add the dissolved gelatin warm, cover with chill to -20C. Take the ring and place over the chocolate-orange cream
plastic wrap and let stand overnight in refrigerator. Icing temperature 34C. 50 g of aai gel. Place in the blast chiller. Place a sheet of acetate on a
flat baking sheet; arrange a circle of 4.5 cm in height and 16 cm in dia-
Sabl % meter, pour in 1 cm of milk mousse and cool. When it begins to congeal,
moscovado sugar g 35 10.67 insert the disk of chocolate-aai cream, cover with more mousse and
fine caster sugar g 45 13.72 cover with a second disc of soft base 14 cm in diameter. Smooth the
edges with the mousse. Blast chill. Remove from mould and glaze with
soft butter g 70 21.34
icing at 34C. Garnish with orange gru and crystalline sugar. Serving
W150-160 00 flour g 60 18.29 temperature 6C.
potato starch g 20 6.10
Maldon salt g 2 0.61 Nutritional values for 100 g
cocoa gru g 10 3.05 energy (kJ) 430.08
24% cocoa powder g 8 2.44 energy (kcal) 102.72
carbohydrates (g) 8.32
cinnamon g 1 0.30
fat (g) 6.13
vanilla powder g 2 0.61 protein (g) 1.47
dark chocolate 70% g 60 18.29
cocoa butter g 15 4.57
Alessandro Dalmasso
total weight of 0.33 kg 100 www. pasticceriadalmasso.com
Mix starting with half the softened butter and flour, add the remaining Avigliana, Torino
flour and knead the minimum necessary to avoid heating the pastry. Photo Remo Caffaro
SPHERE LIMITED EDITION, IS THE DESSERT OF THE FUTURE BY ROBERTO RINALDINI OF RIMINI, A SMALL BUBBLE BLOWN BY HAND, A MICRO DESSERT OF JUST ONE BITE,
MADE IN 50 EXCLUSIVE PAIRS. "IN THE PRESENTATION AND TASTE, HE EXPLAINS I WANTED TO CREATE AN EXPLOSIVE EFFECT IN THE MOUTH THANKS TO THE THIN CRUST OF
SUGAR, WHICH WHEN IT BREAKS DELIVERS TO THE PALATE CREAM WITH AN INTRIGUING STRUCTURE, BETWEEN LIQUID AND CREAMY, WITH HINTS OF CITRUS AND RED FRUITS, THEIR
ACIDITY MAKING THE DESSERT FRESH. THE INGREDIENTS USED ARE SUGAR CANE, STRAWBERRY-SCENTED ESSENTIAL OIL, AND NATURAL RED FOOD COLOURING. SPHERE HAS THE
ADVANTAGE OF BEING CREATED BY HAND, USING LITTLE EQUIPMENT, AND SO CALLING IT A 'SWEET' IS AN UNDERSTATEMENT. WWW.RINALDINIPASTRY.COM
2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18 23
NEWS
RELIABLE MACHINES
The new RTL range (Labotronic and Pastomaster) by Carpigiani includes efficient and ver-
satile machines equipped with the Teorema Ready system, i.e. remote technical diagnosis
and intervention via web. The Labotronic RTL range offers 4 freezing programs (Excellent,
Speed, Hard and Simply), a greater freezing customization and a wider differentiation in
production. The Defrost feature automatically runs in case of an accidental stoppage du-
ring the freezing process, always providing the extraction of frozen gelato and a rapid pro-
duction restart. It is available in four different models (1030, 1545, 2060 and 30100). Also
the Pastomaster range has been updated as RTL: Pastomaster 60 has 5 speed mixing, 7
gelato mix, 4 sauce, 5 speciality and 5 free programs. The special exchange pump, which
is located at the bottom of the tank, guarantees a low homogenization (to have finer and
creamier gelato), a dry bain-marie system (to avoid burning and thus resulting in constant
efficiency) and a low energy consumption, in proportion with the amount of mix to produce.
The versatile Maestro allows to mix, cook, cool and temper with 14 programs for the ma-
king of gelato, cremolata, sauces and toppings, and 18 pastry and chocolate making pro-
grams. The machine has evolved to the HCD version and besides the intelligent and
dynamic handling of the production cycle, the Hot-Cold-Dynamic system modulates the
hot or cold gas depending on the quality and quantity of product; it maintains gelato at the
right consistency and avoids burning and incrusting. Both the hot and cold are produced
by the refrigeration circuit compressor, with four fully integrated circuits managed the by
HCD system itself. Maestro HCD is Teorema Ready and thus designed for remote technical dia-
gnosis and interventions via web.
Carpigiani has applied rounded corners to its laboratory equipment, including the new XPL
range (3 batch freezers, 3 pasteurizers and 2 ageing tanks). The Labo XPL batch freezers have
three variable freezing programs, suitable for gelato, sorbets and cremolata. They are equipped
with the exclusive Hard-O-Time system to keep the production phases under control and
achieve the ideal consistency. The beaters blade is in POM (polyoxymethylene, an engineering
thermoplastic) and has self-adjusting scrapers and no central shaft for the total expulsion of ge-
lato. All models are equipped with the post-refrigeration system that allows to re-activate cold
during the extraction phase, to maintain the consistency of gelato. The Pasto XP pasteurizers are
mix producers with three levels of pasteurization: 65C (for milk-cream mixes), 85C (for milk-
egg mixes) and 90C (for cocoa-milk mixes). The tap for extracting the desired quantity of mix
has a piston that, after every extraction, sends all the mix back into the hopper, thus eliminating
any residues along the pipe. The quality of pasteurization is guaranteed by the Black Out fun- A new generation
ction, which is activated after a sudden loss of electricity or water; the machine calculates the
temperature of the mix to resume the operation in progress or to repeat the pasteurization cycle. of professional moulds
RTL, XPL and Master HCD control panels have the same symbols and large touch pads with
Silikomart launches the Tortaflex mould line
LCD displays and scroll-down menus. Carpigiani has chosen to standardize all control panels,
thus enhancing overall functionality. www.carpigiani.com - www.gelatouniversity.com for cakes, desserts, parfaits... in order to sim-
plify the work of chefs and confectioners. The
new 100% food liquid silicone mould has the
COMFIT AND COMFIT MAXI advantages of silicone flexibility; versatility of
use in blast chillers, traditional or microwave
Established in 1965 by Re- ovens; easy product storage and handiness in
nato Selmi, Selmi started its
mould release and offers itself as an alterna-
activity as a hazelnut paste
processing company and tive to the metal ring traditionally used by con-
only afterwards focused on fectioners. Tortaflex cuts down on preparation
chocolate processing, thus time because it doesnt need any film; moreo-
becoming a specialist in this ver, it doesnt require a gas blowtorch to de-
field; in 1987 Paolo Selmi joi- tach the product from the mould when still
ned his father in the manu-
frozen, keeping its shape unchanged. Another
facturing of tempering and
covering machines. The com- distinctive features is the presence of marks
pany focuses now on the on the sides of the mould, showing the level at
continuous improvement of each cm, to simplify work. Finally, thanks to the
machines and their efficiency, variety of shapes produced by Silikomart, it is
guaranteeing fewer mainte-
possible to match many other moulds, multi-
nance sessions and service, which includes the machines te-
sting at the customers plant. Conceiving and design, form or sixty-by-forty (for instance in the shape
manufacturing and sale, direct shipment and assistance for customers of classical discs or half-spheres) to create
are therefore essential steps of the companys production procedure. special inserts, thus offering a wider variety of
Comfit coating pan is made of AISI 304 steel and is equipped with an tastes and creative solutions. Tortaflex moulds
electronic speed control to optimise the coating of different types and are in white silicone and sold with a highly re-
sizes of products. The introduction of air into the rotating tank cavity is controlled by a coo-
sistant plexiglas 60x40 cm baking-tin/tray.
ling system capable of speedily enlarging the size of products via the introduction of choco-
late. During the following phase a resistance is used to smoothen and polish the surface of www.silikomart.com
products and clean the machine. There is a thermoregulator on the control panel which ena-
bles the adjustment of temperature to suit the required processing.
The technical data of Comfit are: tank capacity 15 kg,
hourly production approx. 15 kg/h, power consumption 1.8
kW single phase 220 volt, cooling system 1100 frigories/h.
The dimensions are w. 720 mm, d. 770 mm, h. 1420 mm.
The technical features of Comfit Maxi are: tank capacity 50-
60 kg, hourly production 50-60 kg/h, power consumption
220 V. single phase. 2.5 kW, cooling system 1900 frigo-
ries/h. The dimensions are w. 1065 mm, d. 1445 mm, h.
1600 mm. Both machines are equipped with interchangea-
ble air filters. www.selmi-group.it
24 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
ITALPROGET. Technologies, projecTs, furnishin g s a n d d e s i g n s fo r b a r s, co n f ecTi o n e r s s h o p s a n d i c e - c r ea m s h o p s
Magic.
enchanting Vision.
design and technology for a display cabinet able to guarantee total and ideal
visibility from all viewpoints. straight and forceful lines and maximum impact
frontpiece glass panels: a magic solution to give greater appeal and make ice-
cream, confectionery products and hot and cold gastronomy the protagonists.
Thanks to its flexibility, to the possibility of modular units, magic succeeds
in adapting itself to the design of any environment and any dimension.
Via Ponte di Ferro 85 | Bettona (Pg) Italy | T. +39.075.9869071 | www.italproget.com Style, quality and technology
SUGAR
PUFFED
POPEYE
Stphane Klein's
fun sugar workpiece
Big Fish
Blown sugar
baking at 168-170C
sugar g 1000
water g 500
glucose 38DE g 350
drops of tartaric acid no. 5-6
(after cooking)
26
26 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
2 For the shoes, use light brown
sugar. Start by blowing a ball and
stretch it into a teardrop shape. Then,
hot, finish blowing it on the opening
end of the trousers, so that it fits well.
PAVONI
Blow a stretched pear shape, then cut
the end with a hot knife. Remove it from
the tube and glue it to the trousers.
4 For the head use flesh pink sugar and begin by blowing a ball. Form a promi-
nent chin and attach it to the ball. Add the mouth in moulded sugar, then the
eyeballs; paste eyes, eyelids and ears. Add the eyebrows and a tuft of black
sugar. Then glue the head to the torso.
Stphane Klein
27
NEWS
"Knowledge gives the skilled pro awareness blication edited by Bibliotheca Culinaria
about his work, resulting in well-deserved and Chiriotti Editori.
satisfaction from a revived expertise", states Scolari adds: "Knowledge has no borders; it
the doyen of Italian confectionary, Fulvio allows those who broadly speaking love to
Scolari, in his introduction to the Dictio- discover their trade from whatever sur-
nary of Artisan Confectionary, a new pu- rounds them in the workshop, to modern te-
chnology, sales, and new trends to feel
richer inside, more motivated and capable of
acting as the bearers of a great culture.
Hence the slogan used to promote the dic-
tionary, the power of knowledge, because
knowledge, understood as being without
boundaries, in a broad and evolutive sense,
enclosing understanding, ability and passion,
is an instrument and vehicle of culture. This
awareness has resulted in this publication by
Emilia Chiriotti and Enrico Mdail. It is a
wide-ranging work, designed for rapid con-
sultation, with about 2000 terms covering a
wide range of topics relating to the world of
confectionary. Equipment, descriptions of
sweets, ingredients, key players, prepara-
tion and decorating techniques. From basic
mixtures to classical sweets, from the great
Italian leavened sweets to simple biscuits,
from meringues to pice monte, from pra-
line to hot chocolate, and even molecular
Dictionary of Artisan confectionary. From the workshop to sales,
Confectionary from creative packaging to display.
Emilia Chiriotti Enrico Mdail The fruit of a long and painstaking work, the
352 pages - 2000 terms dictionary helps find the meaning of terms
Bound (2010) - Euro 45 inviting the attentive and inquisitive reader to
Edited in collaboration delve deeper. The result is a range of lan-
with Bibliotheca Culinaria guages relating to the kitchen, the workshop
To buy the dictionary visit and the market; an essential lexicon for all
www.chiriottieditori.it/shop those in love with the world of sweets.
28 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
DRINKS
REFRESHING SIPS
Sorbet, yogurt and coffee are enhanced with the aroma of whiskey
Silverado
orange sorbet g 50
neutral yogurt g 50
espresso cl 3
Drumbuie cl 2
Canadian Whisky cl 2
Roberto Bianchi
Thanks to the Institute "A. Prever" of Pinerolo
Photo Remo Caffaro
30 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
TECHNOLOGIES, PRO J EC TS, F U R N I S H I N G S A N D D E S I G N S FO R B A R S, CO N F EC T I O N E R S S H O P S A N D I C E - C R EA M S H O P S
Chapeau!
m p l e x i t y i s s i m p l icity"
stage of
last stage co
of complexity
"The last
"The is simplicity"
32 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
Plated desserts: what is its underlying philosophy? What are the greatest difficulties during the preparation of a
It's all about getting to the customer using simplicity, lightness, and sweet?
proper balance all within a complex study aimed at stimulating tastes: Using the same products as others without repeating yourself; kee-
sour, sweet, salty, and bitter. This must always go hand in hand with ping one step ahead of them and searching for something beyond
the other senses, placing an emphasis on touch and sight. what you know. There is a fundamental step in creating a new re-
What equipment and techniques could you not do without? cipe that I try always to put into practice: be aware of your knowledge
The blast chiller, the whisks, the vacuum machine and a thermome- but at the same time, be able to detach yourself for a moment, just
ter. If you know the techniques they can be adapted to suit the long enough to create something new.
equipment. What do you suggest to young people who embark on this
The future sees a growing synergy between salty and sweet, career?
cooking and gelato: how do you interpret this? If there is passion and desire you can go the distance: this of course
Their fusion will be increasingly important thanks to the exchange of goes with a lot of dedication, patience, humility, work and respect for
techniques, processes and ingredients. The possibility for the pastry those who teach. Do not give up at the first hurdle; in fact any hic-
chef to learn more about the savoury world, and vice versa for the cup is a stimulus to continue and improve. Only in this way can a
chef, is an enrichment that gives a broader view of gastronomy, and dream come true.
it provides the chance to grow and learn more. It is an important step Monica Onnis
that can stimulate the curiosity and thirst for knowledge and experi-
mentation of operators.
Why oil?
It is a dressing of high quality that belongs to the Mediterranean tra-
dition. Not everyone knows that fats, along with proteins and car-
bohydrates are macronutrients essential for the proper functioning of
our body: they provide non synthesised fatty acids, called essentials,
such as oleic and linoleic acid that stimulate the absorption of solu-
ble vitamins and carotenoids. The oil is composed of 14.5% satu-
rated fatty acids, 73% monosaturates and 7.5% polyunsaturated
fats: they have a positive effect on lowering bad cholesterol and in-
creasing good cholesterol. On this basis I tried to understand what
benefits this could bring to sweet recipes: it is a vegetable fat with
easily digested components, it has a rapid point of fusion on the pa-
late, it is great for fixing flavours, and in some preparations it con-
veys a sense of heat. I use extra virgin oil with an acidity below 2%,
produced by the community of San Patrignano, cultivated on the
hills of Coriano, with olive cultivars such as correggiolo, leccino, mo-
raiolo, pendulum and rossina, all hand-picked and cold pressed.
Where will confectionary go over the next few years?
We will see a return to tradition with more respect for raw materials
and a focus on simplicity. Instead of a group of tastes, they will be
few and well defined.
What do you think of dessert menus in Italian restaurants?
Unfortunately in Italy the restaurant pastry chef is not always present;
most of the time you are faced with an offer that for one reason or
another is lacking in ideas. Lately, though, the importance of pre-
dessert and dessert has been growing, facilitating an increase in
quality and greater attention from caterers.
2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18 33
CUISINE
SPRING
extra virgin olive oil biscuit
Franco Aliberti
Ristorante Vite of San Patrignano
www.ristorantevite.it
34 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
NEWS
CHOCOGANG IS COMING
Rhino, chim-
panzee, snail,
rabbit, ele-
phant, sheep,
cow, hedge-
hog, bear, tor-
toise: Pavoni
Alessandro Ghezzi and Palmiro Bruschi in front of Buckingham Palace. Italia presents
the new Cho-
Since last July in London you can sample traditional Italian gelato: the first Gino cogang line of
sales outlet has been opened, run by a company headed by Alessandro thermoformed
Ghezzi, born in Russia but originally from Tuscany, a resident for over 15 years moulds to
in London and Yaniv Stein, an Israeli-cum-Londoner. The Italian component is create 10 cho-
Palmiro Bruschi, head of production, personnel training and franchising. colate animals
The shop is run by Raul Nardino of Conegliano Veneto and Marianna Raiteri of quickly and ea-
Acqui Terme, and it seeks to represent Italian excellence. Popular flavours with sily. Choco-
the English are ginger gelato with dark chocolate, or in keeping with local ta- gang will
stes, the Guinness sorbet, peanut butter gelato and, among the Italian special- enliven sprin-
ties, you can enjoy special flavours like Grandma's cookies, egg biscuits gtime with a touch of elegance, in accordance with Pavoni pro-
whisked in the classic fiordilatte, Vin Santo and Cantucci to represent Tuscany, duct range for professional pastry chefs. Each kit includes
Sorrento Lemon, extra virgin olive oil gelato, chocolate and Chianti, celery and assembling instructions to obtain 2 animals, heights ranging from
Parmigiano, and White Coffee. New openings have been scheduled for Japan 130-195 mm, weight 300 g. The company product range is on
Progetto2_Layout 1 13/12/10
and Brazil. 10.54 Pagina 1
www.ginogelato.com show at the Sirha in Lyon, Stand 6H67. www.pavonitalia.com
24-28
MARCH
2011
ORGANISED BY:
intersicop-madrid@ifema.es
36 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
RECIPES
RECIPES FROM
THE IFSE
TAGLIOLINI WITH VEGETABLE RAGOUT
FOR THE TAGLIOLINI FOR THE RAGOUT
00 wheat flour g 300 Pachino cherry tomatoes g 80
semolina flour g 80 potatoes g 80
cornmeal g 30 Parmigiano Reggiano
eggs g 150 cheese g 30
egg yolks no 3 red onions from Tropea g 60
extra virgin olive oil g 5 roasted red peppers g 100
salt to taste lard g 40
Put all the ingredients for the dough in a mixing machine with a leek g 40
pinch of salt; knead to get a smooth texture. Let rest in the fridge 0 wheat flour to taste
for 30 minutes, wrapped in a plastic wrap. Roll out the dough eggplants g 100
into 3 mm-thick sheets and cut it into 20 cm long tagliolini with a asparagus g 100
pasta wheel.
basil leaves no 12
butter g 40
garlic cloves g 40
marjoram sprigs no 2
extra virgin olive oil to taste
After peeling the asparagus and cutting off their tips, that will be
blanched, cut the stems into small strips. In a saut pan, sweat
the julienned onions from Tropea in extra virgin olive oil and a
crushed garlic clove; add asparagus, peppers and eggplants,
saut on a high heat and cook till done, leaving the asparagus
crunchy; add the hand-torn basil and the finely chopped marjo-
IFSE (Italian Food Style Education) ram.
is an association based in Piobesi Torinese, near Torino, founded to In the meantime, peel and seed the cherry tomatoes and cut
spread Italian cuisine philosophy and focusing on health aspects and them into wedges.
Melt the butter with a little extra virgin olive oil, add garlic and
gastronomic tradition. The school is directed by Raffaele Trovato and
saut, add the pounded lard, the blanched potatoes and dice
classes are attended by Italian and foreign students. small. Season with salt and pepper, add the vegetables and keep
www.ifse.it cooking for some more minutes.
www.ifse-world.com Cook the pasta in salted boiling water, toss it in a saut pan with
www.foodfashion.it the vegetable ragout, adding the tomatoes. Before taking off the
heat, add the grated Parmigiano Reggiano and a drizzle of extra
virgin olive oil.
IFSE - Italian Food Style Education
Photo Marco Beltramo
38 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18 39
THE PASTRY WORLD
MEETS IN LYON
TEAMS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD ARE COMPETING
IN LYON IN THE 11TH EDITION OF THE COUPE DU
MONDE DE LA PTISSERIE (WORLD PASTRY CUP),
ON OCCASION OF THE 15TH SIRHA. EMMANUELE FOR-
CONE (SUGAR), DOMENICO LONGO (ICE), AND DAVIDE
COMASCHI (CHOCOLATE) ARE THE MEMBERS
OF THE ITALIAN TEAM. www.cmpatisserie.com
40 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
My world has changed.
My new multifunction helper: Multi Fresh, Irinox.