Weaving Technology

Lecture 1: 22/5/17

Fabric:

Fabric refers to any textile material made through weaving, knitting, braiding or plaiting and
bonding of fibers. On the basis of fiber used for manufacturing, it can be classified as natural
fabrics such as Cashmere, Cotton, Hemp, Jute, Linen, Ramie, Silk, Wool and synthetic or man-
made fabrics like Acetate, Acrylic, Chiffon, Denim, Georgette etc.

Reasons for Clothing:

1. Modesty
2. Identification
3. Adornment
4. Protection against adverse climatic condition
5. Aristocracy
6. Comfortness

Basic concept of textile materials:

Polymer

Polymerization

Polymer chips

Fiber Formation Backward linkage

Fiber

Yarn Manufacturing

Yarn

Fabric Manufacturing

Grey Fabrics

Wet Processing

Finished Fabric Forward linkage

Apparel Manufacturing

Apparel
Fabric manufacturing process:

Weaving:

Weaving is described as inter-lacing, usually at right angles, of two sets of threads to form
cloth, rug or other types of woven textiles. Today this process is mostly automated for mass
production. In it, two distinct sets of yarns called the warp and the filling or weft are
interlaced with each other to form a fabric.

The lengthwise yarns which run from the back to the front of the loom are called the warp.
The crosswise yarns are the filling or weft. A loom is a device for holding the warp threads in
place while the filling threads are woven through them.

Knitting:

After weaving, the most prevalent method of fabric construction is knitting. The yarn in
knitted fabrics follows a meandering path, forming symmetric loops or stitches. When the
interlocking loops run lengthwise, each row is called a wale. A wale can be compared with the
warp in weaving. When the loops run across the fabric, each row is called a course. A course
corresponds to the filling, or weft. There are two major varieties of knitting: weft knitting and
warp knitting. In weft knitting, one continuous yarn forms courses across the fabric. In warp
knitting, a series of yarns form wales in the lengthwise direction of the fabric.

Weft Knitted Fabric Warp Knitted Fabric

Braiding:

A braid is a rope like thing, which is made by interweaving three or more

strands, strips, or lengths, in a diagonally overlapping pattern. Braiding is one
of the major fabrication methods for composite reinforcement structures. It is
done by intertwining of yarns in whatever direction suited to the
manufacturer's purpose. From a domestic art of making laces, it evolved as a fabric made by
narrow width looms. Of late, Crochet knitting machines have replaced large numbers of
traditional braiding machines.

Nonwoven:

Nonwoven fabric is a fabric like material

made from long fibers, bonded together by
chemical, mechanical, heat or solvent
treatment. The term is used in the textile
manufacturing industry to denote fabrics,
such as felt, which are neither woven nor
knitted. Nonwoven materials typically lack
strength unless densified or reinforced by
a backing. In recent years, nonwovens
have become an alternative to
polyurethane foam.

Fig: Nonwoven Fabric

Properties of knitting and weaving:

Woven Knitted
Stable Unstable
Rigid Flexible
Harsh feel Soft feel
Less shrinkage Highly Shrinkage
Less adaptability Highly adaptability
Long procedure of production Very quick production
Need machine Can be done with needles manually
Need sizing No need of sizing
Costly process Cheap production process
Difficult to make designs Easy to make designs

Process sequence of weaving:

Plz follow class lecture.

Basic Definitions

Winding:
The process of transferring yarn from ring bobbins, hanks, cones etc spinners package into a
suitable package which can be used for the subsequent process in weaving is called winding.

Warping:
The paralleled winding of many ends from many winding package on to a common package is
called warping.
Sizing:
Sizing is the process of applying a protective coating upon the yarn surface so that the yarn
will suffer the least damage in weaving.

Pinning:
The process of passing the warp yarn through the drop wire/ dropper.

Drawing/ drafting:
The process of passing the warp yarn through the heald eye of heald shaft.

Denting:
The process of passing the warp yarn through the dent of reed.

Gaiting/ Article:
Gaiting refers to a series of steps that are performed between a point when a warp beam is
replaced and a point when the loom is restarted for a continuous operation. The replacement
from back/ sized beam to heald shaft for a new design is called loom article.

Tying-in:
The tail end of the warp from the exhausted warp beam is tied or knotted to the beginning of
the new warp. It is called tying-in.

Backward Linkage:
The relation of grey fabric with yarn, fiber and polymer is known as backward linkage.

Forward Linkage:
The relation of grey fabric with finished fabric and apparel is known as forward linkage.

Soft Winding:
During winding the spinners package has hardness in it. By reducing hardness, the package
has to be made suitable for dyeing. It is called soft winding.

Hard Winding:
During winding process a hard package is made from the soft package and then it is converted
to a cone form. It is called hard winding.

Baby Cone:
After unwinding spinners package a cone is formed from the extra amount of yarn.

Reconing:
The process of getting large cone from the baby cone.
 Winding
Winding:
The process of transferring yarn from ring bobbins, hanks, cones etc spinners package into a
suitable package which can be used for the subsequent process in weaving is called winding.
This package cant be used in warping because the package is closed on both sides. During
unwinding the package creates balloon form which is higher in size, thats why the
determination property of yarn will be higher.

Figure: Spinners package

Figure: Different types of packages for winding

Objects of winding:

I. To transfer yarn from one package to another package, that can be conveniently used
for the weaving purposes.
II. To remove yarn faults like hairiness, neps, slubs, and foreign matters.
III. To produce long length of yarn by serially joining one yarn package with another.
IV. To clean the yarn.
V. To improve the quality of yarn.
Requirement of Winding:

No damage of yarn
Easy unwinding
Suitable package size and shape
Minimum fault
Economical suitability

Types of winding: Winding is of two types

a. Precision
b. Non Precision

Precision Winding:
By precision winding successive coils are laid, close together by parallel or near parallel
manner. By this process it is possible to produce very dense package with maximum yarn in
the given volume.

Features:
The package is dense
The package is hard & compact
The package contains maximum yarns
The rate of unwinding is slow & unwinding process is very hard
The coils are wound in a parallel on near parallel manner
The package is less stable
Patterning & rubbing causes damage of yarn

Non Precision Winding:

By this type of winding the package is formed by a single thread which is laid on the package
at appreciable helix angle so that the layers cross one another & give stability to the package.
The packages formed by this type of winding are less dense but is more stable.

Features:
Only one coil is used to make the packages
Cross winding technique is used
The package density is low
Minimum number of yarn is wound
The package formed is soft and less compact
The stability is high
Flanges are not required
The rate of unwinding is high & the process is easy

According to build of package winding is of three types:

a) Parallel Wound Package

b) Near Parallel Wound Package
c) Cross Wound Package
Parallel Winding:
This comprises threads laid parallel top one another as in a warp beam. It is necessary to have
a flanged package or beam; otherwise the package would not be stable and would collapse
(slub off). Example: Warp beam, Weavers Beam

Advantages:
Many yarns can be wound at the same time
No need of traversing guide
No change in yarn twist count
The package is stable (if flange is used)
Side with drawl is possible

Disadvantages:

Flanges are required

Separate mechanism is required to unwind the yarn
Over with drawl is not possible
Near parallel Winding:
This package contains one of more threads which are laid very nearly parallel to the layers
already existing on the package. Example: Cop, Pirn, Flanged bobbin

Advantages:

Flanges are not required

Over with drawl is not possible
No change in yarn twist occurs

Disadvantages:

Side with drawl is not possible

The package is not stable
Traversing machine is required
Cross Winding:
This type of package contains a single thread which is laid on the package at an appreciable
helix angle so that the layers cross one another to give stability. Example: Cone, Cheese, Spool

Advantages:

Flange is not required

Yarn package is very stable
Over with drawl is possible

Disadvantages:

The yarn twist is changed during this winding.

Traversing mechanism is required.
Angle of wind:

The angle between the axis of package and wounded package is called angle of wind. For

Parallel it is 0 or 180
Near parallel it is more than 90 or less than 180
Cross wound it is less than 90

With drawl or Unwinding:

The process of unwinding yarn from a package is called with
drawl. It is of two types

Side Withdrawal:
Side withdrawal means unwinds the yarn from the horizontal line
of the package. In this process the package must rotate positively
or negatively. This process is used for flanged bobbin or parallel
package.

Advantages:

Yarn twist unchanged

No balloon formation

Disadvantages:
May lead to tension variations in the yarn
Costly process
not stable package

Over Withdrawal:
It means unwind the yarn over a package or from the vertical line of the package. It
is used for package stationary and done for cross wound package.

Advantages:

High rates of yarn withdrawal

Low costly process
Not necessary to rotate the package
Flanged is not required

Disadvantages:

Balloon formation occur

Yarn twist may change