Ακτομηχανική - Έργα Προστασίας Ακτών

-

:
:
:
ISBN: 978-960-603-378-0
Copyright , 2015
Creative Commons -
- 3.0.
https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/gr/

9, 15780
www.kallipos.gr
2
3

..................................................................................................................... 5
...................................................................................................................... 9
................................................................................................... 9
....................................................................................................................................... 10
1. ................................................................................................................................... 11
2. ....................................................................................................... 12
2.1 .................................................................................................................................................................12
2.2 .................................................................................................................................................12
2.3 (Stokes 1 Airy)...................................................................................14
2.4 - ....................................................................................................................19
2.4.1 Stokes V (5 ) ............................................................................................................................21
2.4.2 ..............................................................................................................................22
2.5 .....................................................................................................................................24
2.5.1 : CALVEL.FOR...................................................... 24
2.5.2 STOKES V: STOKESV.FOR ...................................... 24
2.5.3 ..............................................................................................................................24
2. ........................................................................................................ 27
2. .............................................................................................................. 27
.......................................................................................................................................................................27
3. ............................................................... 28
3.1 ..................................................................................................................................28
3.2 ..................................................................................................................29
3.3 ............................................................................................................................................................34
3.4 - ....................................................................................................36
3.4.1 .........................................................................................................................................36
3.4.2 - .................................................... 39
3.5 .......................................................................................................................40
3.5.1 .......................................................... 41
3.5.2 ......................................................................................44
3.6 ......................................................................................................................................45
3.6.1 : REFRACT.FOR ......................................................................................45
3.6.2 : DIFFRACTION.F90 .................................................................................................45
3.6.3 : Hb_db.for ...................................................... 46
3. ........................................................................................................ 47
5
3. .............................................................................................................. 48
- ..........................................................................................................................................48
3.1.....................................................................................................................................................48
/ .........................................................................................................................................................48
3.2.....................................................................................................................................................49
/ .........................................................................................................................................................49
3.3.....................................................................................................................................................50
/ .........................................................................................................................................................50
3.4.....................................................................................................................................................51
/ .........................................................................................................................................................52
3.1 ..............................................................................................................................................................52
4. ............................................................................................... 53
4.1 ................................................................................................................53
4.1.1 ..........................................................................................................................................53
4.1.2 ...........................................................................................................................................61
4.1.3 ..............................................................................................................................62
4.1.4 .....................................................................................................................63
4.1.5 .................................................................................................................63
4.2 ...................................................................................................................................65
4. ........................................................................................................ 68
5. ............................................................................................................ 70
5.1 .......................................................................................................................................70
5.2 ........................................................................................................................72
5.3 - ...................................................................................74
5.4 ...........................................................................................77
5.5 ..........................................................................................78
5. ........................................................................................................ 80
5. .............................................................................................................. 80
5.1.....................................................................................................................................................80
/ .........................................................................................................................................................80
5.2.....................................................................................................................................................81
/ .........................................................................................................................................................81
5.1 ..............................................................................................................................................................82
6. , , .......................... 83
6.1 ..............................................................................................................................................................83
6.2 ..................................................................................................83
6.3 ...........................................................................84
6.4 ..................................................................................................................................................86
6
6.5 ......................................................................................................87
6.5.1 .................................................................................................................................................87
6.5.2 ............................................................................................................................................88
6.5.3 ....................................................................89
6.5.4 ..........................................................................................................91
6.6 .....................................................................................................................................91
6.7 .....................................................................................................92
6.7.1 ............................................................................................................................................92
6.7.2 ..................................................................................................................93
6.8 ..................................................................................................98
6.8.1 ...............................................................................................................................98
6.8.2 ........................................................................................................................................99
6.9 .............................................................................................. 101
6.10 .................................................................................................................................. 104
6.10.1 : longshore_tr.for .......................................................... 104
6. ...................................................................................................... 105
7. / - ............... 107
7.1 ................................................................................................... 107
7.1.1 ............................................................................................................ 107
7.1.2 ............................................................ 110
7.1.3 .................................................................................................. 113
7.1.4 ............................................................................................... 114
7.2 - .................................................................... 114
7.2.1 ......................................................................................................................................................... 114
7.2.2 ......................................................................................................... 118
7.2.2.1 ............................................................................................................................... 120
7.2.2.2 ............................................................................................. 121
7.2.2.3 ......................................................................................................................... 125
7.2.2.4 .............................................................................................................................. 126
7.2.3 - ............................................................................................................ 127
7.2.4 / .................................................................................................... 128
7.2.4.1 .................................................................................. 130
7.2.4.2 ......................................................................................... 132
7. ...................................................................................................... 134
7. ............................................................................................................ 135
7.1................................................................................................................................................... 135
/ ....................................................................................................................................................... 135
7.2................................................................................................................................................... 137
7
/ ....................................................................................................................................................... 137
7.3................................................................................................................................................... 137
/ ....................................................................................................................................................... 138
8. ............................................................... 139
8.1 - WAVE_LS ................................................................... 139
8.2 WAVE_L ...................................................................................................... 141
8.2.1 ........................................................................................................................................... 141
8.2.2
........................................................................................................................................................................ 144
8.2.3 .......................... 145
8.3 WICIR (Wave Induced CIRculation).................................................... 145
8.4 SEDTR ........................................... 147
8.5 1LINE ............................................................................................................. 147
8.6 - ....................................................................................................................................... 149
8.6.1 ........................................................................................................... 149
8.6.2 WAVE_LS.FOR .......................................................................................................................... 149
8.6.3 WAVE_L.FOR ............................................................................................................................ 150
8.6.4 WICIR.FOR ................................................................................................................................ 151
8.6.5 SEDTR.FOR ................................................................................................................................ 151
8.6.6 1LINE.FOR ................................................................................................................................. 153
8. ...................................................................................................... 155
EBP Equilibrium each Profiles

...
SMB Sverdrup-Munk-Bretschneider
Closure depth
Groin
Wave hindcasting

Mild slope equations
Stream Function Theory
Whitecaping
Effective fetch
Directional spectrum
Bores
Perturbation method
Mean fluid speed underneath the steady wave profile
c
mean horizontal fluid speed
Depth averaged stokes mass transport velocity
Eulerian time-mean fluid velocity
Storm surge
Non-intersecting profiles
Zero upcrossing
Sheet flow sediment transport
One-line model
Sinks
Berm
Pocket beach
Sources
Wave riding buoys
Jetties
Wave forecasting
Salient
Tombolo
Swell
Sponge layer
Steady wave profile
Intersecting profiles
Headlands
Capillary waes
Undertow
/
.

, -
, , ,
.
.
. , ,
, ,
- .

,

.
,

, , ,
,
.
10
1.
15.000 km,
: / ,
, .. ,
,
. ,
/.
,
, , ,
,
.

.
Airy, Stokes 5 .

, .

.
8.
.

5. 6
,
,
. o 7

. ,

, , .

(, , , , ...)
(
) ,
. , ,

.
.
11
2.
,
.
Airy ( , ,
, ..), Stokes 5 .
2.1

. L
( ),
( ) ,
, .
, ,
. ..
0,1 150 sec.

150-104 sec.
105 sec.

.
.
y x, z (long crested waves).
2.2

.
, ,
, , :
u u u 1 p
+u +w =
t x z x
w w w 1 p
+u +w = g
t x z z
(2.1)
:
u w
+ =0
x z
(2.2)
12
u x, w z, p ,
g .
1 u w
= = 0
2 z x
(2.3)
.
,
u, w p, (x, z, t) :

=u = w
x z
(2.4)
(2.4) (2.2) :
2 2
+ =
0
x 2 z 2
(2.5)
Laplace.
(2.1)
Bernoulli:
1 2
( p
)
= u + w 2 + gz + = B(t)
t 2
(2.6)
(2.6) .
z
, (t) , (2.6) :
1
= g + u s2 + w s2
t 2
(2.7)

() us ws .
,
:

=
w = +u
z t x z=(x,t)
(2.8)
,
:
13

=
w = 0
z z=-d
(2.9)
2.3 (Stokes 1 Airy)

,
, ( ), ,
d L.
2.1 .
, .
(. ) (2.1) (2.6)
. H/d<<1 H/L<<1.
( ).
x 1 ( 2.1.)
:
H
= cos (kx-t)
2
(2.10)

:
:
k: , k=2/L
L:
: , =2/
:
1
.
14
a : a = H / 2 .
(2.9) (x, z, t)
:
, t ) Z ( z ) sin(kx t )
( x, z =
(2.11)
(z) z.
Laplace (2.5) :
d 2
k 2z =
0
dz 2
(2.12)
:
(C1e kz + C2e kz )
=
(2.13)
C1 C2 (2.7) (2.9).
:
H g cosh ( k(d + z) )
= sin(kx t)
2 cosh(kd)
(2.14)
(2.14) (.
) (2.8) d
L:
2=gk tanh(kd)
(2.15)
( /) c:
L
c=
T
(2.16)
(2.15) :
gT
c= tanh(kd)
2
(2.17)

gT 2
L= tanh(kd)
2
(2.18)
15
(2.18) L
d
(2.18) .
( d/L>0.5), tanh(kd) 1 (2.18) :
gT 2
Lo =
2
(2.19)
.
L L,
.
( d/L<0.05) (2.18) :
=
L c T gd T
(2.20)
c gd .
u w,
, (2.4) (2.14) :
H cosh ( k(d+z) )
u= cos (kx-t)
T sinh (kd)
(2.21)
H sinh ( k(d+z) )
w= sin (kx-t)
T sinh (kd)
(2.22)
2.2 .
16
/2 (.

, ).

2.2.
(2.21) (2.22)

H cosh ( k(d+z) )
= u dt= sin (kx-t)
2 sinh (kd)
H sinh ( k(d+z) )
= w dt= cos (kx-t)
2 sinh (kd)
(2.23)
,
. L/2 (z< -L/2 )
( ) ( 2.3).
2.3 , .
.
. 2.3
, .
(2.14)
Bernoulli (2.6):
17
gH cosh ( k(d+z) )
p= gz + cos (kx-t)
2 cosh (kd)
(2.24)
, .
2.4.
2.4 .

k p
:
2
L 0 L
d
= E k + E= 0 d 2 ( u + w ) dz dx + 0 g(d + ) dx gL 2=
2
E p
gH 2 L gH 2 L gH 2 L
= + =
16 16 8
(2.25)
E :
E H2
E= =g
L 8
(2.26)

.

:
E 1 2kd E n
T 0
1
P= p u dz dt =
=
T 2 sinh(2kd) T
1+
T 0 d
(2.27)
:
18
1 2kd
n = 1+
2 sinh(2kd)
(2.28)
n 0.5 (no=0.5) 1 .
(L
L+dL ). 2.5. , .
.
0 ( ) 2 ( ).

. ( )
. cg.
2.5 .
cg :
cg = c n
(2.29)
2.4 -

,
. , .
. , (H/d) /
(H/L) (.. ),
.
.
:
/2, /2 ( 2.6).
: ,
. z (u(z))
, .
.
19
2.6 ( ) ( ).

(Stokes , cnoidal , Fourier Stream Function
). : Stokes 5
(Stream Function).
( ) .
2.7 .
20

( ...). (...) d
( 2.7).
2.4.1 Stokes V (5 )

(perturbation method). ,
, ,
, L.
,
.
Stokes 5 Fenton (1985)
. = k H/2,
k= k=2/L (L= ).
, c (
steady wave profile) (Fenton, 1985):
1/2 5
g i
(x, z) = u x + c o 3
k
i A ij cosjkz sinjkx
i =1 j=1
5 i
k(x, z) = kd + B ij i cosjkx
i =1 j=1
5
(Q ud)(k 3 /g)1/2 = D i i
i =1
(2.30)
u (mean horizontal fluid speed), :
u(k/g)1/2 = c o + 2 c 2 + 4 c 4
(2.31)
Aij, Bij, ci , Di kd (Fenton, 1985).
c :
L Q
c= = u + CE = + Cs
T d
(2.32)
CE (Eulerian time-mean fluid velocity)

CS (depth averaged Stokes mass transport velocity)
Q c (mean fluid speed
underneath the steady wave profil). u c
, u = Q/d.
c
CS CE.
CS = 0.
, 5
(Fenton, 1985),
.
21
, 0.142,
. ,
Ursell:
H L2
Ur =
d3
(2.33)
,
.
Stokes V Ur<40.
.
Stokes V,
. ,
. Karambas and Koutitas (1997)
.
2.4.2
Stokes V, ,
, . ,
, Fourier ,
(Stream Function Theory).
, , ,
x, z:

u= w=
z x
(2.34)
(2.34) (2.3) :
2 2
+ =0
x 2 x 2
(2.35)
(x, 0)= 0, z=0

(x, )= - Q, z=
(2.36)
Q c.
(2.7) :
1
2 2
+ + g =R
2 x z
(2.37)
R .
, c ( 2.7),
( ), (Dean, 1965):
22
N
(x, z) = cz + a j sinjkz cosjkx
j=1
(2.38)
.
2.8 .
(2.38) Laplace (2.35) (2.36),

(2.37).
(2.38) (2.37),
x=0 x=L/2 ( 2.7), z = , R
a1 a2 ...a.
M + 1 ( 2.8),
, (2.36) (2.37) :
(x m , m ) = Q m=0, 1, 2, M
1
2 2
+ g m = R
(x m , m ) + (x m , m )

2 x z

(2.39)
d :
H= - m
(2.40)
1 1 1 M
d= o + m + M
M2 m =1 2
(2.41)
xm = (m-1)L/ 2M m = (xm ).
23
(2.38) (2.39), (2.40) (2.41)
2M+1 M + N + 6 :
k, u , c, Q R
M + 1
N a1 a2 ...a.

Newton. (Dean, 1965).
. N (N =
5) ,
(N = 18).

,
, .
( Boussinesq) .
2.5
2.5.1 : CALVEL.FOR
:
d

CALVEL.FOR , .
x/L u(z) w(z).
2.5.2 STOKES V:
STOKESV.FOR
T, H, d STOKESV.FOR,
Stokes V ,
( elevs5.dat).
2.5.3
STREAM.FOR.
:
T, H, d, ( =5 =20)
(damping factor=0.3) (=31)
:
/H
( elevstr.dat, x, /H)
u(z) , w(z):
( velstr.dat, z, u(z) , u/t, w(z), w/t).
(2.9) (2.10)
STREAM.FOR .
24
2.9 u(z) :
H=5 m, d=50 m, T=8 s.
25
2.10 u(z) :
H=4 m, d=5 m, T=8 s.
26
2.

Dean, R.G. (1965). Stream Function representation of nonlinear ocean waves. Journal of Geophysical
research, 70, 4561-4572.
Fenton, J.D. (1985). A fifth-order Stokes theory for steady weaves. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and
Ocean Engineering, 111, No. 2, p. 216.
Karambas, Th.V. and Koutitas, C. (1997). An Improvement method to Stokes non-linear theory, Journal of
Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers (ASCE), 124,
no 1.
Reeve, D., Chadwick, A.and Fleming, Ch. (2004). Coastal Engineering, Processes, theory and design
practice. Spon Press, ISBN 0-203-64735-1 Master e-book ISBN.
Svendsen, Ib. A. (2006). Introduction to Nearshore Hydrodynamics. Singapore: World Scientific Publ. Co.,
ISBN: 98 1-256-142-0.

Dalrymple, R.A. (1974). A finite amplitude wave on a linear shear current. Journal of Geophysical research,
79, 4498-4504.
Dean, R.G., Dalrymple, R.A. (2004). Coastal Processes with Engineering Applications. ISBN 0-511-03791-0
eBook, Cambridge University Press.
Fenton, J.D. (1990). Nonlinear Wave Theories. The Sea, Ocean Engineering Science, 9. Part A, p 3.
Kamphuis, J.W. (2000). Introduction to Coastal Engineering and Management, Advanced Series on Ocean
Engineering: Volume 16, World Scientific Publishing Co.
ISBN: 98 1-256-142-0.
, . (1994). . : .
2.
STREAM.FOR

(CALVEL.FOR).
(=2 m T=8 s) (.. d=3 m) (.. d=50 m).
27
3.

, . :
, , ,
, . ,
,
.
8.

, .
3.1
.
, ,
. ,
, .
.
,

( 3.1):
H H
= cos (kx-t)+ cos (kx+t)
2 2
(3.1)

= H cos (t) cos (kx)
(3.2)
H cosh ( k(d+z) )
u= sin (kx) sin(t)
T sinh (kd)
H sinh ( k(d+z) )
w= cos(kx) sin (t)
T sinh (kd)
(3.3)

cosh ( k(d+z) )
p= gz + gH cos (kx) cos(t)
cosh (kd)
(3.4)

3.1.
28
,
. , ,
(2) .
3.1
.

(3.1) =( H / 2) cos (kx-t)+C R ( H / 2) cos (kx+t) , CR .
CR 0 1 (CR =1: , CR =0: ).
3.2
, L/2 (d< L/2)
( 2)
.
, d
c L ( 2.17 2.18).
x, z
2, x, y, z.
.
, , (
3.2).

.
, ,
( 3.2).
.

.
29
3.2 .

, , .. , , ..
( 3.2). ,
.
Lo
L ( 3.3.).
. =Lo
CD=L . :
30
Lo L
=
BC =
sin o sin
(3.5)

sin L
=
sin o L o
(3.6)
(3.6) Snell.
3.3 .
3.4 .
31
bo (.
). , b
( 3.4) . :
bo b
BC= =
cos o cos
(3.7)
(2.27)
bo b, ,
:
E o bo n o Ebn
Po = =P=
T T
(3.8)
.
(2.25) :
H 2 n o Lo bo
=
H 2o n L b
(3.9)
H ( )
.
(3.7) (3.9) :
0.5
n o Lo cos o
0.5
=H = Ho ks k R Ho
n L cos
(3.10)
ks ( )
kR (
).
32
3.5 .
d,
,
( 3.5), .
Li di
(2.18):
Li = Lo tanh(k i d i )
(3.11)
Lo ( 2.19).
(3.11) .
Lo, .
(.. 0.01 ).
i di (3.6):
L
=
sin i i sin o
Lo
(3.12)

( , ..)
WAVE-L .
, (=0).
(3.10) (3.12) :
0.5
n o Lo
=H i = H o ks H o
n i Li
(3.13)
, . ,
, . ks
33
,
( 3.6).
3.6 ks=/ d/Lo.
2, ,
. ks
, , Le Roux
(2008):
k s-nonlinear = A exp [(H o / Lo ) B]

(3.14)

A 0.5875(d / Lo ) 0.18 d / Lo 0.0844
=A 0.9672(d / Lo ) 2 0.5013(d / L o ) + 0.9672 0.0844 < d / Lo 0.6
A 1 d / L o > 0.6
B = 0.0042(d / Lo ) 2.3211
(3.15)
ks (3.13) (3.14). Hi
, .
3.3

( 3.7)
(, , ).
( ). ,
.
34
3.7 .
3.8 .

Penny Price (1944).
d,
( 2.14):
g coshk(d+z)
= (x,y,t)
coshkd
(3.16)
:
(x,y) eit
=
(3.17)
( x y).

(3.17)
( 2.10). , (3.17) (2.10),
, Euler, eix=cosx+i sinx, i , i= 1 .
(3.16) (3.17) Laplace ( =0 , 2.5)
2
Helmholtz:
35
+ k2
2 =0
(3.18)
(3.18) Kd (
) Kd=/:
4kr -ikrcos(-) 4kr + -ikrcos(+)

K d = I - sin e +I - sin e
2 2
(3.19)
,
, r
( 3.8) :
2
1+ i
=I() e
2
2 d
(3.20)
() Fresnel C() S():
1 + C() + S() C() S()

=I() +i
2 2
(3.21)
:

2 2
C() cos
= d =
S() sin d
0
2 0
2

FORTRAN90 ( DIFFRACTION.F90).
3.4 -
3.4.1

, ,
, , .
/L
( , whitecaping)
,
.
120.
:
Ho
= 0.142
Lo
(3.22)
:
36
H 2 d
= 0.142 tanh( )
L L
(3.23)
, . /L,
.
(3.22) (3.23) ,
0.142 L tanh(kd), .
, , (
3.14), .
us
c (us> c), ,
. ,
, , ( ),
( ).
, ,
( 3.9). .
, .
/d , .
(, 1994):
H b 0.17
= = +0.08
db
(3.24)
b (
) db Irribaren:
tan
=
Ho
Lo
(3.25)
tan Lo .
=0.78.

(Weggel, 1972):
- 43.8 (1-e-19 tan ) b2

Hb 1.56 H
= = -19.5 tan
db 1 + e gT
(3.26)
tan <0.1 H o /L <0.06, H o =Ho kR.
b (Komar and
Gaughan, 1973):
37
-1/5
Hb H
=0.56 o
H o Lo
(3.27)
(Sakai and Battjes, 1980):
-0.3118
Hb H
= 0.3839 o H o / Lo < 0.0208
H o Lo
-0.1686
Hb H
= 0.6683 o 0.0208 H o / Lo < 0.1
H o Lo
Hb
=1 0.1 H o / Lo
H o
(3.28)
b db
, .
=(d+ ),
( 3.9).
(3.27) (3.28) Hb
Ho=HokR. O kR ,
db.
: Ho=Ho ( kR=1). Hb
(3.27 3.28) db, (3.24 3.26), db=Hb/.
kR Hb.
kR.
b (3.12).
, cosb 0,
kR=(cos)1/2.
3.9 , .
38
,
b db, : d
, H (3.14) (3.15).
(3.24 3.26). . >d.
,
. REFRACT.FOR
.
3.10 .
,
( 3.10), Irribaren ( 3.25):
. . ,

.
. .
.
. .
.
3.4.2 -
(bores),
(run-up).
R
( 3.9) Hunt:
39
R= o , < 2
(3.29)

(Stockdon et al., 2006):
H o Lo ( 0.563tan f2 + 0.004 )
1/2
R = 1.1 0.35tan f (H o Lo ) +
1/2
2

(3.30)
tan f .
.

( 3.9). ,
,
.
:

1
= (d b d) + b
1+ 8 2
3
(3.31)
b :
1 kH 2b
b =
8 sinh(2kd)
(3.29 3.30)
(3.31).

, . :
= (d+ )
(3.32)
3.5
(
, ,
). ,
, .

, ,
.

.
8.
40
3.11 .
3.5.1
( )
(Euler). (.
) :
u v w
+ + =0
x y z
(3.33)
u 1 p
=
t x
(3.34)
v 1 p
=
t y
(3.35)
w 1 p
= g
t z
(3.36)
u, v w x, y z ( 3.11),
p .
() :

w= , (z= z0)
t
(3.37)
d d
w=
u v , (z= d)
x y
(3.38)
.
41
(3.33) z (z= d) (z= z0),
(3.37) (3.38), 1:
(U w d) (Vw d)
+ + =
0
t x y
(3.39)
Uw Vw x y
0 0
1 1
: U w =
d d
u dz Vw = v dz .
d d
(3.36) :

0
p(z)= gz+ w dz
t z
(3.40)
( 2.24) p,
:
p(z)= gz+pd
(3.41)
p d :
cosh(k(d+z))
p d (z)=g
cosh(kd)
(3.42)
H (3.34) (3.35) :
U w 1
0
x -d
d =p z=-d d x p dz
t
(3.43)
Vw 1
0
y -d
d =p dy p dz
t
z=-d
(3.44)
(3.41) (3.43) (3.44) ,

, :
U w 1 (c 2 ) 1 g d
+ =
0
t d x d cosh(kd) x
(3.45)
Vw 1 (c ) 1 g d
2
+ =
0
t d y d cosh(kd) y
(3.46)
k c , c=L/T.
1

/t+(Uw(d+))/ x+( Vw(d+))/ y=0, (3.33)
w=/t+u/x+v/ y, (z=),
Leibnitz.
42

(mild slope equations, Copeland, 1985 Watanabe & Maruyama,
1986).

Reynolds
. :
U 2w U 2w
=... v h + v
x 2 y 2
h
Vw2 Vw2
=... v h + v
x 2 y 2
h
(3.47)
h .
...= fb Uw
...= fb Vw
(3.48)
, fb
() fw :
1
f w U 2w +Vw2
fb = 2
d
(3.49)
, :
(U w d) (Vw d)
+ + =
0
t x y
U w 1 (c 2 ) 1 g d 2 Uw 2 Uw
+ = vh + vh fb Uw
t d x d cosh(kd) x x 2 y 2
Vw 1 (c 2 ) 1 g d 2 Vw 2 Vw
+ = vh + vh f b Vw
t d y d cosh(kd) y x 2 y 2
(3.50)

( , , ).
,
.
.
43
h
(Karambas and Koutitas, 1992).
(Battjes, 1975):
1/ 3
D
h =2h

(3.51)
h D
(Battjes and Janssen, 1978):
1 H2
D= g
4 T
(3.52)
H D (3.53)
(Rattanapitikon et al., 2003):
0.12 cg
=D (E E st)
h
(3.53)
E st Hst=0.42 Hb:
1
E st = g ( 0.42 H b ) .
2
8
D
Hst,
. (3.53)
, ,

.
, , ,
( ) .
8.
3.5.2
u v,
( )
(Phillips, 1966, 1977 Booij et al., 1999 Holthuijsen et
al., 2003 ei et al., 2005 Holthuijsen, 2007). :
E c x E c y E c E
+ + + =
D
t x y
(3.54)
E (, x, y, t) (
3.2), (x,y) t, cx, cy, c
(x,y) , c
44
cg ) D
(3.52, 3.53).
, c :
c c c
c =
g cos sin
c x y
(3.55)
(3.54)
,
.
.
(3.54)
( , , ).
. (
), .
Holthuijsen et al. (2003), ,
Berkhoff,
c (. 3.55) C :
c c c 1
C =
g cos sin 1 + + c g cos + sin
c x y 2 1+ x y
(3.56)
=
(
cc g E ) k .
k 2cc g E
, , (
) .
.

8.
3.6
3.6.1 : REFRACT.FOR
REFRACT.FOR :
(per)
Ho (Ho)
(Ad)
(slp)
d,
,
.
3.5.1,
, .
3.6.2 : DIFFRACTION.F90
45
(3.4)
FORTRAN90 .
DIFFRACTION.F90 Kd .
Fresnel C() S()
frenel .
:
(per)
d (depth)
(thita)
(bita)
r (r)
Kd.
3.6.3 : Hb_db.for
:
- Ho (Ho)
- (per)
- (ad)
- (slp)
, .
46
3.

Battjes, J.A., and Janssen, J. P. F. M. (1978). Energy loss and set-up due to breaking of random waves.
Proceedings of 16th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, pp. 569587. New York: Am.
Soc. of Civ. Eng.
Battjes, J.A. (1975). Modelling of turbulence in the surf zone. Proc. Symp. Modelling Techniques. California:
ASCE, pp. 1050-1061.
Booij, N., Ris, R.C. and Holthuijsen. L.H. (1999). A third-generation wave model for coastal regions 1. Model
description and validation. Journal of Geophysical Research, 104, C4, 7649-7666.
Copeland, G.J.M. (1985a). A Practical Alternative to the Mild-Slope Equation. Coastal Engineering, 9, pp
125-149.
Holthuijsen, L.H., Hemran, A. and Booij, N. (2003). Phase-decoupled refraction-diffraction for spectral wave
models. Coastal Engineering, 49, 291-305.
Holthuijsen, L.H. (2007). Waves in oceanic and Coastal waters. Cambridge University Press, ISBN-13 978-0-
511-27021-5 (eBook).
Karambas, Th.V. and Koutitas, C., (1992). A breaking wave propagation model based on the Boussinesq
equations, Coastal Engineering, 18, 1-19.
Komar, P.D., and Gaughan, M.K. (1973). Airy wave theories and breaker height prediction. Proc. 13th
Coastal Engineering Conf. ASCE, pp. 405418.
Le Roux, J. P. (2008). An extension of the Airy theory for linear waves into shallow water. Coastal
Engineering, 55, 295301).
Mei, C.C , Stiassnie, M. and Yue, D.K-P. (2005). Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves, Part 1,
Linear Aspects; Part 2, Nonlinear Aspects. World Scientific Publishers. ISBN 981-238-8931.
Penny, W.G., and Price, A.T. (1944). Diffraction of water waves by breakwaters. Misc. Weapons
Development Technical History 26, Artificial Harbors, Sec. 3D.
Phillips, O.M. (1966, 1977). Dynamics of the upper ocean. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
Rattanapitikon, W., Karunchintadit, R., and Shibayama, T. (2003). Irregular wave height transformation using
representative wave approach. Coastal Engineering Journal 45(3), 489510.
Sakai, T., and Battjes, J.A. (1980). Wave theory calculated from Cokelet's theory. Coast. Eng. 4, 6584.
Stockdon, H.F., Holman, R.A., Howd, P.A., and Sallenger, A.H. (2006). Empirical parameterization of setup,
swash, and runup. Coast. Eng. 53(7), 573588.
Watanabe, A., and Maruyama, K., (1986). Numerical modeling of nearshore wave field under combined
refraction, diffraction and breaking. Coastal Engineering in Japan, vol. 29, pp. 19-39.
Weggel, J.R. (1972). Maximum breaker height. J. Waterw. arbors Coastal Eng. Div. 98, 529548.

, . (1994). . : .

47
Mei, C.C. (1989). The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves. Singapore: World Scientific. ISBN 9971-
5-0773-0.
ISBN: 98 1-256-142-0.
3.
3.1
10 5 m :
3.0 m, 8 s 30.
/
10 m.
9.81 T 2 9.81 82
=
Lo = = 99.92 m .
2 2
10 m, 3.11.
2
=L10 L=
o tanh(k1010) 99.92 tanh 10 .
L10
L10=Lo=99.92 m,
, L10=55.68 m.
. L10=55.68 m,
L10=80.99 m. ,
L10=64.98 m.

L10=70.898 m. k10=2/ L10=0.0886.
10 10 m (3.12):
L 70.898 o
=
sin 10 10 sin=
o =
sin30 0.355 :
Lo 99.92
10 =20.78o .
1 2kd
(2.28.) n, n= 1+
sinh(2kd)
:
2
1 2k10d10 1 2 g 0.0886 g 10
n10 = 1+ = 1+
2 sinh(2k10d10 ) 2 sinh(2 g 0.0886 g 10)
=0.81 .
10 m (3.14):
48
.
5 m :
L5= 53.082 m, k5=2/ L5=0.118, 5 =15.40o , n=0.9 :
3.2
2 m : 3.0
m, 8 s, 0 ( )
1/20.
/
2 m, :
L2= 34.69 m, k2=2/ L2=0.181, 2 =0o , n=0.956 :
.
, , ,
, 80-90%
, . 1.6-1.8 m. ,
(3.32), =(d+ ).
d=2 m ( 3.31)
:
, (3.24):
H b 0.17
= = +0.08
db
tan 0.05
=
Irribaren ( 3.25): = = 0.2886
Ho 3
Lo 99.92
Hb
, = =0.28860.17 +0.08=0.889 .
db
. (3.27):
-1/5
H
-1/5
Hb 3
=
=0.56 o =
0.56 1.13 ,
Ho Lo 99.92
.
(3.24)
Hb 3.4
=db = = 3.82 m .
0.889
b :
49
1 kH 2b 1 0.181g 3.42
b =- =- =-0.33m .
8 sinh(2kd) 8 sinh(2 g 0.181g 2)
2 m :

1 1
= = (d d) + b = (3.82 2) 0.33 0.26 m .
8 2 b 8
1+ 1+ 0.889
2
3 3
2 m :
.
3.3
:
3.0 m, 8 s, 30,
1/20.
/
, (3.24):
H
= b = 0.17 +0.08
db
tan 0.05
=
Irribaren ( 3.25): = = 0.2886
Ho 3
Lo 99.92
Hb
, = =0.28860.17 +0.08=0.889 .
db
(3.4.1),
kR, , , kR=1
Ho=Ho ( 3.27).
(3.27):
-1/5
H
-1/5
Hb 3
=
=0.56 o =
0.56 1.129 ,
Ho Lo 99.92
.
(3.24)
H b 3.39
=db = = 3.81 m .
0.889
db=3.81 m, :
:
2
=
L3.81 99.92 tanh 3.81 45.95 m ,
L3.81
:
L 45.95 o
=
sin 3.81 3.81 =
sino =
sin30 0.2299 , = 13.29o
Lo 99.92
kR:
50
0.5
cos300
kR = o
=0.9433 .
cos13.29
kR =0.9433,
:
H b 3.23
=db = = 3.63m
0.889
:
2
L3.63 =99.92 tanh 3.63 =45.95 m ,
L3.63
L 45.95 o
=
sin3.63 3.63 =sino =
sin30 0.2299 , = 13.29o .
Lo 99.92
kR:
0.5
cos300
=kR = o
0.9433 .
cos13.29
kR
.
Hb, db b :
Hb=3.23 m
db=3.63 m
b=13.29o .
3.4
, o , :
4.0 m, 6 s 40.
10 m .
100 m 25
.
51
/
10
m.
9.81 T 2 9.81 g 62
L o = = =56.207 m .
2 2
10 m, 3.11.
2
L10 =Lo tanh(k1010) =56.207 tanh 10
L10
L10=48.406 m k10= 2/L10=0.1298.
10 10 m (3.12):
L 48.406 o
=
sin 10 10 sin=
o =
sin40 0.554 :
L o 56.207
10 =33.61o .
1 2kd
(2.28.) n, n= 1+
sinh(2kd)
:
2
1 2k10d10 1 2 g 0.1298 g 10
n10 = 1+ = 1+
2 sinh(2k10d10 ) 2 sinh(2 g 0.1298 g 10)
=0.695 .
10 m (3.14):
3.8. 25 (=25) = 90o

+33.61o =123.61o.
DIFRACTION.FOR, =25, =123.61o r=100 m,
KD=0.1303.
: =0.1303 3.51 = 0.46 m.
3.1
3.1. 3.2 3.3.
REFRACT.FOR Hb_db.for.
52
4.

, , .
4.1
4.1.1
, ,
,
. ,
, ( 4.1).
53
4.1 .

.

.
.
.
x y :
u u u u 1 p
+u +v +w =
t x y z x
(4.1)
v v v v 1 p
+u +v +w =
t x y z y
(4.2)
w w w w 1 p
+u +v +w = g
t x y z z
(4.3)
54
4.2 .
,
, (u, v, w) ()
(uc, vc, wc), (uw, vw, ww)1
(u, v, w) ( 4.2):
u= uc + uw + u
v= vc + vw + v
w= wc + ww +w
(4.4)
(4.4) :
u = v= w = 0
<uw>=<vw>=<ww>0
(4.5)

< > :
T
1
T 0
A = A(t) dt
(uw,vw, ww) ,
(.. ) ( 2.21
2.22).
(4.4) (3.1) :
1
uw, vw ww u, v w
.
55
u c v c w c
+ + =0
x y z
u w v w w w
+ + =0
x y z
u v w
+ + =0
x y z
(4.6)
(4.6), z=-d z= ,
( U(d+) ) ( V(d+) )
+ + =
0
t x y
(4.7)
(...) U V

1
d+ d
x y : U = u c dz

1
d+ d
V = v c dz .
(4.4) (4.1) (4.2)

, :
u c u u
+u c c +v c c = + +
( +
) (
1 ) ( )
t x y x x y z
( ) ( ) (< uw w w >)

x y z
(4.8)
v c v v
+u c c +v c c = + +
( +
) (
1 < v v > < v w > ) ( )
t x y y x y z
( ) ( < v 2w > ) ( < vw w w > )

x y z
(4.9)
(4.8) (4.9)
(. , wc=0).
(4.6).
, (4.4) (4.3),
wc ,
, :
< ww ww > 1

= g
z z
56
(4.10)
(4.10) (4.6).
4.3 .
(4.10) :
=g( -z) < w w w w >

(4.11)

Reynolds,
.
(4.11) (4.8) (4.9) , z=-d
z= + ( 4.3), (uc, vc) ()
(uc(z)U, vc(z)V) (DeVried and Stive, 1987):
U
+U
U
+V
U
= g
1 

dz
(
1 

dz
) ( )
t x y x h d x h d y
 
z =
+ z= d
h h
1 (< uw uw w w w w >) 2 g ( < > ) 1 ( )
1 2
dz dz
h d x x h d y
(4.12)
V
+U
V
+V
V
= g
1 < vv >

dz
(
1 

dz
) ( )
t x y y h d y h d x
< vw > < vw >
z =
+ z= d
h h
1 ( < vw vw w w w w > ) 2 g ( < > ) 1 ( )
1 2
h d h d
dz dz
y y x
57
(4.13)
h , h= d+ .
<uwww> <vwww> (z= +)

(z=-d) ,
( ) uw ww 90.
sx, sy bx, by :
sx = bx = 

z = z=-d
sy = < vw > by = < vw >

z = z=-d
(4.14)
u
Boussinesq Reynolds ( u u 2 h ,
x
v u v
v v 2 h , u v h ( + ) ...) :
y x x
U U U 1 U 1 U
+U +V = g + h h + h h
t x y x h x x h x y

+ sx bx
h h
1 (< uw uw w w w w >) 2 g ( < > ) 1 ( )
1 2
dz dz
h d x x h d y
(4.15)
V V V 1 V 1 V
+U +V = g + h h + h h
t x y y h x x h x y
sy by
+
h h
1 ( < vw vw w w w w > ) 2 g ( < > ) 1 ( )
1 2
dz dz
h d y y h d x
(4.16)
h .
,
( )
uw vw , <uw>=<vw>=0.
( )
.

. :
58

Sxx = ( ) dz + 12 g ( <2 > )

d
Syy = ( < v w v w w w w w > ) dz + 12 g ( <2 > )

d
Sxy = dz

d
(4.17)
, ,
:
( Uh ) ( Vh )
+ + =
0
t x y
U U U
+U +V +g =
t x y x
1 Sxx Sxy 1 U 1 U sx bx
+ + h h + h h +
h x y h x x h y y h h
V V V
+U +V +g =
t x y y
1 Sxy Syy 1 V 1 V sy by
+ + h h + h h +
h x y h x x h y y h h
(4.18)
(4.17) (uw, vw, ww)

( 2)
Uw, Vw . Copeland
(1985) :

2
Sxx U V U V
=d 2 A r -d 2 < w + w >Br + < Uw w + w > Dr +
x y x x y
U w Vw 1
< Vw + > Dr + g < >
2
y x y 2
U w Vw
2
Syy U V
=d < V > A r -d < w + w >Br + d 2
2 2 2
< Vw + > Dr +
x y y x y
w
U V 1
d2 D r + g < 2 >
x x y 2
59
Sxy
=<
d 2 U w Vw > A r

(4.19)

k 1
Ar = ( sinh2kd + 2kd ) Br = ( sinh2kd - 2kd )
4sinh 2 kd 4k sinh 2 kd
d 1
Dr = sinh 2kd - cosh2kd
4sinh kd 2kd
2

WAVE-L 8,
(4.19). , (
).
, , ( )
.
(
) :
E
Sxx= (2n 1) + E n cos2
2
E
=Sxy n sin 2
2
E
Syy= (2n 1) + E n sin 2a
2
(4.20)
E ( 2.26: E =gH2/8),
1 2kd
n= 1+ .
2 sinh(2kd)
(4.20) ,

, .
( , ...).
(4.18)
(U, V) . ,
,
2. , , ..
, (
).
s, ,
.

(, 1994).
2
, ,
,
. , ,
( ).
60
4.1.2
bx by (4.18)
.
. ,
ks
.
.
.
,
.
. , r
, . r
(Nielsen, 1992):
2
r Uo
= 21 1.85 >10 =
o (s 1)gd 50
(4.21)
Uo ( ) ( z=-d)
(2.21), Uo=H/(Tsinh(kh)), s=s/ ( s
, s2.65), d50
T
, o =U o . Uo
2
( 5).
r (Nielsen, 1992):
r
= 0.342 0.34 4 2.5

(4.22)
2.5 Shields 2.5d50:
1
f 2.5 Vo2
2.5 = 2
(s 1)gd 50
(4.23)
f2.5 2.5d50:
2.5d 50
0.19

=f 2.5 exp 5.213 5.977
o
(4.24)
,
>240, .
<10 .
r ,
ks (Nielsen, 1992):
61
2
8 r + 170 2.5 0.05
ks = d 50

(4.25)
4.1.3
(4.18)
, . ,
: .
ub vb :
ub(t)=U+uwb(t)
vb(t)=V+vwb(t)
(4.26)
uwb, vwb .
1
bx = f cw 
2 2
2
1
by= f cw < v b u b + v b >
2 2
2
(4.27)
fcw -.
-
.
fcw fc
fw. fc fw :
fcw=acw fc+(1-a cw)fw

(4.28)
acw x : acw-x=U/(U+Uo), y : acw-

y=V/(V+Uo).
fc Chezy cc :
2g
fc =
c c2
12h
c c = 18 log 10
s
k
(4.29)
:
ks
0.19

=f w exp 5.213 5.977
o
(4.30)
62
4.1.4
h (Larson and Kraus, 1991):
h = 0.5 U o H
(4.31)

(
) (Karambas, 1999).
, h
. h
.
4.1.5
(4.18)
. ,
( 4.4).
:
(undertow)
.

.
()

0 0
M=< v dz> +< v dz> = <v> dz +< v dz> =< v dz>

-d 0 -d 0 0
(4.32)
(2.21)
,
, ,
.
(4.32) :
1
M= <v> = g H 2 /c=E/c
8
(4.33)
E (2.26), c (2.17)
.
,
. ,
, .
( 4.4.) .
(4.33) (Fredse and Deigaard, 1992):
M=E/c+0.9H 2 /(2T)
(4.33)
63
4.4 .
,
, ,
, (undertow)
.
:
Vm = < v dz>=-
( M/ )
h -d h
(4.34)
h= d + .
(Svendsen, 2006):
c ln c
Vu ()=Vm -0.017 + 0.15 -0.10c
dt dt
(4.35)
=h+z ( z=0 =h , z= -(d+)=-h

= 0 ) dt :
d t =h+c -H
(4.36)
c (
c=/2). (Hansen, 1990):
c
=0.5+ c -0.5 (h/h b ) 2
H H b
(4.37)

64
c
=1-0.5tanh 4.85/ U b
H b
( )
(4.38)
( H o /Lo )
-1
Ub : U b =10.1 (tan)0.2 .

0.75 U o2 /c (Svendsen, 2006).
( 4.35) .
4.2
,
.
.
. , ,

.
, .
, (4.18) y (
) x ( ) :
1 Syy
g =
0
y h y
(4.39)
1 Sxy bx U
+ h =
0
h y h y y
(4.40)
y ,
Sxy, S yy ( 4.20), bx
(4.27), h ( 4.31)
U=U(x) .
(4.39) (3.31), .
.
(4.40) Longuet-Higgins (1970a
b)
(Longuet-Higgins, 1970 Dean and Dalrymple, 2004 Svendsen, 2006):
5 g m* h sin
U(y) =
2f cw c
(4.41)
m* , m* =tan/(1+32/8), c
.
, V
.
( 4.5, P=0).
65
, h =N y gd ( N
=(10 )) Longuet-Higgins
-3
(Longuet-Higgins, 1970 Dean and Dalrymple, 2004 Svendsen, 2006):
U / U=
o B1 Y P1 + AY 0 < Y <1
= B2 Y P2 Y >1
(4.42)
Y=y/yb (yb ), Uo ()
(3.41),
p2 1 p 1
=B1 = A B2 1 A
p1 p 2 p1 p 2
3 9 1 3 9 1
p1 = + + p 2 = +
4 16 P 4 16 P
1
A=
(1 25 P )
(4.43)

8 tan N
P=
f cw
(4.44)
(
), (4.42) ( 4.5)
(4.41), P=0.
4.5 ..
0.001-0.003, fcw0.008-0.01, 0.8 P

0.1 0.4. P=2/5 Longuet-Higgins (1970)
.
66
U (Komar,
1976, Reeve et al., 2004):

=U 2.7 gd b sin b cos b
2
(4.45)
, , ()
.
( ) (Leontyev, 1999):
R tan w
U R = 0.01
T tan
(4.46)
R , w
d=Ho.
UR
( ) ( 4.6).
4.6 ,
.
67
4.

Copeland, G.J.M. (1985b). Practical radiation stress calculations connected with equations of wave
propagation. Coastal Engineering, 9, pp 195-219.
DeVried, H.J. and Stive, M.J.F. (1987). Quasi-3D modeling of nearshore currents. Coastal Engineering, 11,
565-601.
Fredse, J. and Deigaard, R. (1992). Mechanics of Coastal Sediment Transport, volume 3 of Advanced Series
on Ocean Engineering. World Scientific.
Hansen, J. B. (1990). Periodic waves in the surf zone: Analysis of experimental data. Coastal Engineering, 14,
14-41.
Karambas, Th. V. (1999b). Mixing in the surf zone: a theoretical approach. Journal of Marine Environmental
Engineering, Vol. 5, pp. 159-173.
Komar, P.D. (1976). Beach Processes and Sedimentation. Englewood Cliffs, NJ: Prentice-Hall.
Larson, M. and Kraus, N. (1991). Numerical model of longshore current for bar and trough beaches. Journal
of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, 117, No. 4, 326-347.
Leontyev, I.O. (1999). Modelling of morphological changes due to coastal structures. Coastal Engineering,
38, pp 143-166.
Longuet-Higgins, M.S. (1970a). Longshore Currents Generated by Obliquely Incident Sea Waves, 1. J.
Geophys. Res., 75, 33, 67786789.
Longuet-Higgins, M.S. (1970). Longshore Currents Generated by Obliquely Incident Sea Waves, 2. J.
Geophys. Res., 75, 33, 67906801.
Longuet-Higgins, M.S., and Stewart, R.W. (1963). Radiation Stress in Water Waves; a Physical Discussion
with Applications. Deep Sea Res., 11, 4, 529563, 1963.
Nielsen, P. (1992). Coastal bottom boundary layers and sediment transport. World Scientific Publishing.
ISBN: 98 1-256-142-0.

, . (1994). . : .

Longuet-Higgins, M.S., and Stewart, R.W. (1963). Radiation Stress in Water Waves; a Physical Discussion
with Applications. Deep Sea Res., 11, 4, 529563, 1963.
68
Mei, C.C. (1989). The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves. Singapore: World Scientific. ISBN 9971-
5-0773-0.
Mei, C.C , Stiassnie, M. and Yue, D.K-P. (2005). Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves, Part 1,
Linear Aspects; Part 2, Nonlinear Aspects. World Scientific Publishers. ISBN 981-238-8931.
69
5.
, ,

. ()
.

. .
5.1

. (capillary waes)
,
() .

, .
, Phillips (1957) iles (1960),
. ,

,
.
450 ,
.

:
F = .
.
450
, (effective)
5.1, :
F (cosa )
i i
2
Feff = i= N N
cosa
i= N
i
(5.1)
i =5 10 ,
, i
(i=i ), 2+1 ( =5, =9)
tD =
U10 = 10 m .
70
5.1 Feff .
1/7
10
U10 = U(z)
z .
(5.2)

/.

, uw* :
u 2w* = C D U10
2
(5.3)
=
C D -: C D 0.001(1.1 + 0.035U10 ) .

, , (
, 1992). .
.
.
,
. , d,
, , L>2d
, .
71
, (wave riding buoys),
, , ,
, .

( ., 2007).
5.2
(t) . 5.2,
:
. t
Gauss.
. (zero upcrossing),

(t), , .
(t) ,
() ,
Rayleigh . i
Rayleigh :
H 2
P(H i ) =
1 exp i
H rms
(5.4)
Hrms
H
i=1
i
H rms =
N
(5.5)
5.2 (t) .
H 100 100% Hrms

H=H100 = H rms
2 .
(5.6)
72
s, 1/3 33% ,
,
. o Hrms :
H1/3 =H s = 2 H rms .
(5.7)
Rayleigh (>1/3) = 0,135.

t ,

N N
2 2
= =
i=1
2 i=1
N N
(5.8)
N .
(2.25)
T
1 g 2
E p = g dt
=
T 0 2 2
(5.9)
T .
E=g 2 .
(5.10)
, :
g N 2 g g
E=
8 i=1
H i /N= H 2rms = H s2
8 16
(5.11)
(5.10), (5.11) :
s =4.
(5.12)
H max = H rms lnN .

(5.13)
( )
Hmax
Hrms. Hmax
> 100.
73
5.3 -
,
,
Ti, ( , narrw band process), a i ( a i =H i /2 )
i:
= a cos(k x t + )
i i i i
(5.14)
i =Ti/2 (
2, =/2). ki, i, i2=g ki.

g 2
Ei = ai
2
(5.15)
' , ()
+d:
g +d 2
=
E()d ai
2 .
(5.16)
()
() :
+
g +d 2
E= E()d
= ai
2
0 .
(5.17)
E f
(f=1/T) S(f ) = E(f ) / g m2sec.
, ,
( ) (t) Fourier.
74
5.3 JONSW s=1 m Tp=6.0 sec.
1970-80
(
), ,
JONSW ( 5.3):
4
(f f p ) 2

2 f exp 2 j2f p2
a Ph g
S(f ) = exp 1.25 J
2 f 5 fp

(5.18)
:
J 3.3 j
j=0.07 f<fp, j =0.09 f>fp,
a Ph Phillips
0.076
a Ph = 0.22
F
g 2
U10
(5.19)
fp
3.5g
fp = 0.33
F
U10 g 2
U10
75
(5.20)
, (),
f,
.
S(f,) (directional spectrum). S(f,)
G(f,) :
S(f,) =S(f) G(f,)

(5.21)
G(f,)
. :
2
G(f,)=G()= cos2 (-)

(5.22)
-/2 /2.
/2
G()d=1. 5.4.
-/2
JONSW s=1 m, Tp=6.0 sec, =0 G()=(2/)cos2 () .
76
5.4 JONSW (s=1 m, Tp=6.0 sec, =0 ).
5.4
(wave forecasting)
, ,
, ,

. ,
, (wave hindcasting),
.
, 3 U10, F, tD
, , :
. F. tD
F, U10.
. tD. F
tD U10.
. .
F tD U10.

U10, tD, F () .
, SMB
(Sverdrup-Munk-Bretschneider) JONSWAP. JONSWAP
Hso
Tp:
1/2
g H so gX
=0.0413 2
u 2w* u w*
(5.23)
1/3
g Tp gX
= 0.651 2
u w* u
w*
(5.24)
u 2w* = C D U10
2
, :
F(=Feff ) , :
3/2
gF gt
< 0.0053 D
2
u w* u
w*
(5.25)
( ) F.
( ), (5.25) F
(5.23), (5.24) .
, .
':
g F 34.528
>
U102 CD
(5.26)
77
:
g H so
= 211.5
u 2w*
(5.27)
g Tp
= 239.8
u w*
(5.28)
S c xS c yS c S
+ + + = Sin + Snl + Sds
t x y
(5.29)
S(, x, y, t) (
3.2), (x,y) t, cx, cy, c
(x,y) .
:
Sin = +S ,
Snl = ,
,
Sds = , .
, (.. ),
S . :
1/2
+
H s = 4 S(f )df
0
(5.30)
,
, ,
(.. ).
( ,
).
,
. , ,
(swell). ( )
( ).
5.5
(extreme)
s (.. 1, 10,50, 100 ).
, s
.
> 10 min 3, 6, 12 . ,
6 (365 x 24)/6 = 1460 Hs 0.
78
, s,
,
Weibul :
H c
b
P( > H s ) = exp s
a
(5.31)
c=0 b=1. , :
H
P( > H s ) = exp s
a
1
ln ( P( > H s ) ) = Hs
a
(5.32)
s
1/a. ,
6 s
(..
s 1/(1460 x 100).
79
5.

Miles, J.W. (1960). On the Generation of Surface Waves by Turbulent Shear Flows. Journal of Fluid
Mechanics, Vol. 7, Pt. 3, pp. 469-478.
Phillips, O.M. (1957). On the generation of waves by turbulent wind. Journal of Fluid Mechanics. 2(5): 417
445.

., . (1992).
. : ...
, ., , ., , ., , ., , ., . (2007).
. . , 300 .

511-27021-5 (eBook).
Kana, T.W., White, T.E. and McKee, P.A. (2004). Management and engineering guidelines from groin
rehabilitation. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 33, p. 57-82
U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, (2002). Coastal Engineering Manual. Engineer Manual 1110-2-1100, U.S.
Army Corps of Engineers, Washington, D.C.
US Army Corps of Engineers, (1992). Coastal groins and nearshore breakwaters. Engineering Manual.
Report EM 1110-2-1617
5.
5.1

: U10=20 m/s, F=60 km, tD=6 hr.
/
CD=0.001(1.1+0.035 .U10) =0.0018
, . (5.26):
80
.
u 2w* = C D U10
2
=0.0018 202=0.72 m2/s2 uw*=0.848 m/s,
(5.25):
, Hso Tp
(5.23) (5.24), =F=60000 m.
5.2

: U10=20 m/s, F=300 km, tD=6 hr..
/
CD=0.001(1.1+0.035 .U10) =0.0018
, . (5.26):
81
u 2w* = C D U10
2
=0.0018 202=0.72 m2/s2 uw*=0.848 m/s,
(5.25):
F (5.25)
:
, Hso Tp:
(5.23) (5.24), =137509 m.
5.1

JONSWAP_CEM.FOR.
82
6. , ,

, ( )
, ,
,
.

, , .
6.1
,
, /.
,
.
,
, ,
, , .. ,
, ,
, .
,
, ..
. ,
.
, ,
, ,
() .
6.2
,
.
, s=2,65 t/m3,
2,72 t/m3 2,87
t/m3.

, . ()
(.. d50) .
(mm)
250-60
32-4
2-0,1
0,03-0,004
0,002-0,0002
6.1 .
83
,
, ( )
(, 1994, Kamphuis, 2000):
d1.1
wf = [(s / 1)g]
0.7 50
, 0.13 d501.6 mm
60.4
0.5
w f 1.05 (s / 1)gd 50
= , 1.6 <d50 8 mm
(6.1)
, s .
.
, tan=0.6.
6.3

. ,
, .
.
, ,
,
,
.
, , (
), ,
.
: () ,

, ( 6.1) ()
,
( ) ,
( 6.2).
, ,
. ,
. qt
, qb qs: qt=qb+qs.

. ( )
,
.
,
, .
, :
1. :
( ) ,
.
, ( 6.1. 6.2.).
2. :
. , ,
, ,
, ,
, . (
84
)
( 6.3).
3. ( 6.4):
- (undertow)
- ,
.
1
( 4).
6.1 .
6.2 .
85
6.3 <qb>=q+-q_.
6.4 .
6.4
,
,
.

.
,
, .
cr Shields, D* :
1/3
g
d * = d 50 2

(6.2)
d50 () , , =(s-)/, s
.
cr (Van Rijn, 1993):
86
bcr 0.24 d *1 1< d* <4
cr = =
( s )gD 50
0.14 d *0.64 4< d* <10
0.04 d *1 10< d* <20
0.013 d *0.29 20< d* <150
0.055 d* >150
(6.3)
bcr .
b bcr, b>bcr,

.
6.5
,
, ,
.
6.5.1
, ,
10d50 ,
( 6.1).
(sheet flow) 10 100
.

, (
, 4.21, 240, > 240).

Meyer-Peter Mller
. - qb (
) x y (Ribberink, 1998):
q bx 1.65 x
= 11 c
gD 3
50

q by 1.65 y
= 11 c
gD 350
(6.4)
< >
Shields :
bx by
x = y =
( s )gD 50 (s )gD50 = 2x + 2y
(6.5)
87
bx by, x y, (4.27).
(-c) Shields
. c
.
6.5.2

, ( 6.2). ,
, -,
.
qs ( ) x y

u(t,z), v(t,z) c (t,z):
q sx =< u(z, t) c(z, t) dz >

d

q sy = < v(z, t) c(z, t) dz >

d
(6.6)
(6.6) :
q sx = u c (z) c(z) dz
d

q sy = v c (z) c(z) dz
d
(6.7)
c uc(z), vc(z)
.
c(z) (,
1994, 7.28):
w z
c(z) = c R exp f
Dv
(6.8)
wf , Dv cR
Camenen and Larson (2007, 2008):

c R 3.513 exp ( 0.3d* ) cw,m exp 4.5 cr
=
cw
(6.9)
cw,m= Shields, ,
cw= Shields , cr=
Shields ( 6.3).
88
Shields,
, :
cw,m =(c2 + 2w,m + 2 w,mc cos )1/2

(6.10)
cw = (c2 + 2w + 2 w c cos ) 1/2
(6.11)
c= Shield , w=
Shields , w,m= Shields (
w,m=w/2).
Dv

(DeVried and Stive, 1987):
1/3
D
=D v 0.1 b h + 0.025h

(6.12)
b ( 4.27) D
3.52
(8.4) 8 .
(6.12)
, .
(6.7)
.
, (6.7) :
Dv wf h
=q sx U c R 1-exp
wf Dv
Dv wf h
=q sy V c R 1-exp
wf Dv
(6.13)
,
. ,
.
6.5.3
Bagnold (1963)
Baillard (1981).
qxt, qyt, x y ,
qbx, qby qsx, qsy (Baillard, 1981):
qtx= qbx +qsx qty= qby +qsy

1 u d
q bx = 
(s )g tan u bt tan
89
1 u u u
q sx = < s bt b + s d x bt t >
( s )g w f u bt wf
1 v dy
q by = 
(s )g tan u bt tan
1 u v u
q sy = < s bt b + s d y bt t >
( s )g w f u bt wf
(6.14)
, tan=0.6, b, s
(b=0.1, s=0.02), dx, dy x y, ub=ub(t), vb=vb(t)
x y ( 4.10), u bt = u 2b + v 2b
b t
:
1
b =
< f cw u bt >
3
2
=
t b + D e3/2(1h/H)
(6.15)
H (H=Hrms) D
(3.27).
(6.14) (6.15), (6.4), (6.7),

.
(.. D, fw,
)
( U V).
() . ,
(4.35).
O Leontyev (1999) (6.14) (6.15)

U V Uo.
(6.15) (6.16) :
qxt= qbx +qsx qyt= qby +qsy

9 1 b U bt 1 U bt
q bx = b
8 (s -)g tan U o
q sx = s t
( s )g w f
9 1 b Vbt 1 Vbt
q by = b
8 (s -)g tan U o
q sy = s t
( s )g w f
b =
2
f w U o
3 t 4 b + De3/2(1 h/H)
=
3
(6.16)
qxt, qyt , qxt=qbx+qsx, qyt=qby+qsy , Ubt, Vbt

, Ubt=U+Ubu ,Vbt=V+Vbu, Ubu Vbu
( 4.35 z=-h) Uo
Uo=H/(Tsinh(kd)).
90
(6.16)
( Ubt, Vbt h)
( H L),
.
, , (6.16).

(6.16)
Ubt, Vbt (
Utb=U+Ubu ,Vtb=V+Vbu).
(6.16) , Utb=U,
Vtb=V.
6.5.4

, .
,
. qR
(Leontyev, 1996, Larson et al. 2004):
qR =
0.03 ( 2gR )
3/2
( tan eq tan )
(s / 1) g
(6.17)
R , tan taneq
: tan =
eq (
20w / ( gT )1/ 2 ( gH )1/ 4 .
f o )
qR (taneq -tan).
, . , tan
taneq.
, qR
Hanson and Kraus (2011):
1/2
H3
q R = K wf o
d 50
(6.18)
10-5-10-4.
qR (6.18) Dean Fo
( 6.24).
qR (6.17) ( 6.18),
( Leontyev, 1996), qxt, qyt (6.16).
(6.4) (6.13) (6.16),
(4.46).
6.6
( )
:
z b 1 q xt 1 q yt
=

t (1 n) x (1 n) y
91
(6.19)
zb , n (n0.4) qtx, qty

( x) ( y) (qtx=qbx+qsx, qty=qby+qsy).
H 6.5 :
( ) (
), ( ),
, . ( , .
).
(6.18) (6.4 6.14
6.17) . Watanabe (1988)
: q= z b z
q tx q tx , q= q ty q ty b
x y
tx,s ty,s

s ,
, =2 5, .
(6.18), :
z b 1 z b 1 z
= q xt q tx q yt q yt b
t (1 n) x x (1 n) y y
(6.20)

,
.
(6.20) .
(
) ( ).
6.5 .
6.7
6.7.1
,
.
.
(
) : ()
92
, () , ()
.

Dean (Dean, 1991, 6.6):
d(y)=Ap ym
(6.21)
d = , Ap = , y=
.

(U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, 2002).
m 2/3 Ap (Dean, 1983):
Ap=0.5 wf0.44
(6.22)
6.6 .
(6.21) y ,
. (6.21) h* .
(closure depth). ,
(
).
h* (closure depth) (Hallermeier, 1981, 1983):
H2
=h* 2.28 H e 68.5 e2
g Te
(6.23)
He 0.137 % (. 12
) e .
6.7.2
6.3., 6.4.,
.
6.5
3.3, q~uwb3.3.
,
. , , ,
, . ,
, 10 100
93
, (sheet flow).
,
. ,
, . ,
(undertow),
,
.
, , ( ,
, undertow) .
, (
undertow)
, .
( undertow)
, .
,
( 6.4).
, ( 6.7).
,
, .
, .
,
(storm surge), ,
/ ,
.
, ( 6.8). .
,
( , 6.9).
6.10
.
,
.
.
,
()
.
/
Dean (Dean, 1973):
Ho
=
Fo
wf T
(6.24)
: Fo>1
, Fo<1 ().
. Hanson and Kraus
(2011) .. : Fo>4.0 Fo<2.4.
/
. ,
, . (6.17)
(taneq-tan).
tan taneq, taneq tan
. (6.18)
t (Yamamoto et al., 1996, 8.29 8).
94
( 6.21) Dean (1991),
,
dys ( 6.7):
H b ds
dys 0.068 B + B
=
Wb H
1 + 1.28 b
B
(6.25)
dys (), ds , Wb
( 6.21 d=db)
( ).
,
.
(6.25) ,
.
( 3.31). , dys
(Hsu, 1998):
dys
= 0.40 0.99
Lo
(6.26)
Irribaren ( 3.25).
6.7 - ( ).
95
6.8 .
6.9 - ( ).
96
6.10 .

dS (
).
( 6.21) ,
dys-cc ( 6.11) Bruun
(Bruun, 1962):
dyscc dS
=
W* h* + B
(6.27)
W*
6.21 d= h* .
6.11 .
97
6.8
6.8.1

, ( 4),
, .
,
,
. , ,

( 2.27) (U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, 1992,
2002):
=
Pl ( Ec )
g b sin( b ) cos( b ) (m3 / s)
(6.28)
(2.26) (3.24) (6.28)

cgb=cb=(gdb)1/2 :
g3/2 5/2
=Pl H sin(2b )
1/2 b
16
(6.29)
Il :
Il= Pl
(6.30)
(6.30) (s ) g (1 n)
(U.S. Army
Corps of Engineers, 2002):
g1/2 5/2
=Qt K H sb sin(2b ) (m3 / s)
16 (s )(1 n)
1/2
(6.31)
Qt ,
( ), Hb , b
.
0.39, =0.39, (6.29)

(Hb =Hsb). H (6.31)
Hsb , b ,
(3.4.1), Hb= Hsb.
b
Qt .
Coastal Engineering
Manual (U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, 2002) . Kamphuis (2000)
98
(6.32) ,
:
0.25
Qt 4
0.0203H sb Tp1.5 (tan)0.75 d 50 sin 0.6 (2b ) (m3 / s)
(6.32)
,
.
6.8.2
( 6.12) ,
, , Qt
, (
). .. Qt1>Qt2 Qt2<Qt3, 1 2 (
Q=Qt1-Qt2) , 3 4
.

.
6.12 .
,
(one-line model) .
(6.18) , , .
ys x ( 6.13).
,
, h* ( 6.23). ,
x ( 6.13),
Qt , t,
. , x, i i+1,
, (Qti>Qti+1),
( ti ti +1 ) t = t t ,
(). Qt (Qt <0),
, ().
t t x
h* , ,
( ) ( 6.13).
, y s ,
ys (h* + B ) =
x Qt t :
99
ys 1 Q t
=
t ( h* + B ) x
(6.33)
h* (6.23) (berm).
(6.33) ( 6.21 )
, 6.13 . ,
, .
Qt/x, q0
/ , .
, ,
. ,
, 6.7.2. ( q0 =qR , Hanson and
Kraus, 2011). , (6.33) :
ys 1 Q t
= q0
t ( h* + B) x
(6.34)
6.13 : () , () .
dys /dx x,
b -dys /dx , Qt
(6.31):
dys
Qt=Qtmax sin2(b - )
dx
(6.35)
100
b Qtmax
(6.31).
, ,
b, Qt
,
.

,
.
( 7) ( 8)
.
6.9

.
,
, .
,
, (sources) (sinks)
. ( 6.14):
.
,
.
, ,
. ,

,
, .
,
( ),
.
,
,
.
.
.
,
.
, ,
, .
,
( )
.

( 6.7). ,
.
,
( 6.15). ,
.
101
,
,
. , ,
, . , ,
(.. ).
7.
.
, , ,

.
, .
.
,
.
,
. , ,
( 6.17)
.
.
6.14 .
102
6.15 .
6.16 .
(6.31 6.32) (
),
/,
.
.

:
Q f
i
i ti i
(6.36)
i= 1, ... (Hbi, bi)

, i , Qti
fi .
103
,
.
, , .
( /)
, .
/ :
1.
( )
( )
. , ,
, / ,

(6.36).
, (
6.36) .
.
2.
, ,
, ( 6.7.2.). ,
swell (, ). ,
, .
( ), ,
, , .
, swell,
.
3.
,
(
),
. ,
( 6.11) Bruun
(6.27).
4.

,
.

, .
6.10
6.10.1 : longshore_tr.for
:
- Ho (Ho)
- (per)
- (ad)
- (slp)
- f(%)
Qt
(6.31), m3/.
104
6.

Bagnold, R.A., (1963). Mechanics of marine sedimentation. The Sea, Vol. 3. Interscience, New York, pp. 507-
528.
Baillard, J.A. (1981). An energetics total sediment transport model for a plane sloping beach. Journal of
Geophysical research, 86, 10938-10954.
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Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers, 88, 117-130.
Camenen, . and Larson, M. (2007). A Unified Sediment Transport Formulation for Coastal Inlet
Application. Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory, U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development
Center, report ERDC/CHL CR-07-1.
Camenen, . and Larson, M. (2008). A general formula for non-cohesive suspended sediment transport.
Journal of Coastal Research 24(3), 615-627.
Dean, R.G. (1973). Heuristic models of sand transport in the surf zone. Proc. Conf. on Engineering Dynamics
in the Surf Zone, Sydney, Australia, 208-214.
Dean, R.G. (1983). Principles of Beach Nourishment. Handbook of Co. Processes and Erosion. P. Komar
(ed.). CRC Press.
Dean, R.G. (1991). Equilibrium beach profiles: characteristics and applications. Journal of Coastal Research
7(1), 5384.
Dean, R.G. (2002). Beach Nourishment: Theory and Practice (Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering),
World Scientific.
DeVried, H.J. and Stive, M.J.F. (1987). Quasi-3D modeling of nearshore currents. Coastal Engineering, 11,
565-601.
Hanson, . and Kraus, N.C. (2011). Long-Term Evolution of a Long-Term Evolution Model. Journal of
Coastal Research: Special Issue 59, pp. 118 129.
Hallermeier, R.J. (1981). A Profile Zonation for Seasonal Sand Beaches from Wave Climate. Coastal . Eng.
Vol. 4, pp 253-271.
Hallermeier, R.J. (1983). Sand transport limits in coastal structure design. Proceedings of the Coastal
Structure 83, vol. 1, ASCE, pp. 703716.
Hsu, T.-W. (1998). Geometric characteristics of storm-beach profiles caused by inclined waves. Ocean
Engineering, Vol. 25, No. 1, pp. 69-84.
Kraus, N.C. and Harikai, S. (1983). Numerical model of the shoreline change at Oarai Beach. Coastal
Engineering, 7(1), pp 1-28.
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experiments and mathematical modeling. Marine Geology 212, pp. 6179.
Leont'yev, I.O. (1996). Numerical modelling of beach erosion during storm event. Coastal Engineering, 29(1-
2):187-200.
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38, pp 143-166.
Ribberink, J. S. (1998). Bed-load transport for steady flows and unsteady oscillatory flows. Coastal
Engineering, 34, pp 59-82.
105
ISBN: 98 1-256-142-0.
Report EM 1110-2-1617.
Van Rijn, (1993). Principles of Sediment Transport in Rivers, Estuaries and Coastal Seas. Aqua Publications,
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, . (1994). . : .
, . (1985). . : .
, .. (1985). .
: ...

World Scientific.
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Environmental Engineering, vol. 7, pp. 15-24.
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Galets. 4th Journees de l'Hydraulique, les energies de la Mer, Question III, Rapport No. 1, pp 289-
298.
106
7. / -

o

.

6.
7.1

, , ,
, ( ..
).

.
,
n
. :
,

,
,
,
,
. , .. ,
,
, .

,
.
,
,
,
, .

: , , .
7.1.1
. ,
(groin).
( 4). ,
, ,
( 7.1.). ,
,
.
107
, .

. .

, .
. ,
(4.41) ,
,
.
7.1 (=1.5 m, T=6.0 s).
.
, .
,
( 7.1).
( ) , .
Hb db
( 3.31). ,
, ,
.

. (
) ( ).
.

(6.33).
Pelnard-Considere (1956).
Qt , :
108

2
x
1 x x
2 Q t tan ( b )
Ys (x, t) =
exp erfc

2 Q t 2 Q t 2 Q t
(7.1)
Ys(x) ( 7.2),
KH 2bc gb 1
Q =
8 (s )(1 n) h* + B
(7.2)
h* (6.23) (berm) erfc(
)=1-erf( ), erf( ) :
()
2
=
erf ( )
0 exp( z 2 )dz
(7.3)

.
, Ys (x=0),
.
7.2 .
, ,
y Ys, ( 7.3).
7.3 .
109
7.4 .

: .
, , -,
( 7.4). , 7.4.,
Ys(x,t),
,
( 7.1).
,
. , , .
.

,
.
7.1.2

.
, , ( )
, ( 7.5).
db Hb
. (3.31) ( 7.5)
.
, ,
( 7.6) .
,
. ,
(
), . ,
, .
(salient)
( 7.6) . ,
,
tombolo ( 7.7).
110
7.5 (), ().
: =1.5 m, =7s.
7.6 .
.
111
7.7 .
tombolo.

Silvester and Hsu (1997).
. 7.8,
R (
) SH
, R0 :
2
R
=
C0 + C1 + C2
R0 SH SH
(7.4)
R0
, SH =, R =R0. 40, =40,
C : C0=0, C1=1.32 C3=-0.33. R0 :
R0 Y
= 0.1737 + 1.683 o
Ls Ls
(7.5)
Ls Y .
:
R0 (7.5). , SH, SH
==40 , R (7.4).
R S.
, , , ,
,
.
112
7.8
Silvester and Hsu (1997).

. tombolo ( 7.7).
Silvester and Hsu (1997) S ,
( 7.8), :
2
S Y Y
=
0.1626 + 0.8439 o + 0.0274 o
Ls Ls Ls
(7.6)
S=0, tombolo, Yo/Ls=0.192.
( 7.6 7.7)
.
. , ,
( tombolo,
, ),
.
,
.
,
.
7.1.3
,
.
,
, . , ,
, 7.1.1.
7.1.2., .

.

,
, . :
. , .
,
,
. ,
,
. ,
.
113
, , ,
/ .
,

, .
.

,
.
7.1.4
6.9.

.
,
,
( 6.17).
7.2 -
, ,
: )
(), ) (), )
( , ).
,
/.
7.2.1
(groins)
.
.
7 (.. , , ..).
,
.

. ,
.
(jetties), ,

(, , , ...). 7.9.
7.10.

. ,
.
114
7.9 , .
115
7.10 (groins) (jetties). :
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Groyne, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jetty

, 7.1.1. , ,
,
.
.

(Kraus et al., 1994 U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, 2002 Basco and Pope, 2004 Kana et al., 2004):
1.
. ,
.
2. Lg
.
100~200 m.
3. Sg 1,5-3 ,
Sg=(1.5~3 Lg) .
, Sg.
4.
() .
5. .
.
6. ,
,
, .., . ,
,
.
7. 0,5-1,0 m
(),
.
116
8. ,

( ).
Lg
Sg.
, ,
. Qtg
:
Qtg=(1-dg/db*) Qt
(7.7)
Qt , dg
db*
(), db* 1.6Hsb.
:
1. ,
(.. ) .
,

( 7.1.1.).
2. , ,
. : ()
, , ()
, ()

.
3. () ,
7.11,
6 (American Society of Civil Engineers, 1994).
R g= S g /Lg
.
.
7.11 .
,
. Sg,
.
T, (
117
7.12). ,
, .
7.12 .
:
( ),
, ,
.. ( 7.13).
7.13 : () , ()
, () -, () .

, .
, . ,
,
,
, ,
, , ..
7.2.2
(
), .

. (
)
, , tombolo (
7.14., 7.15). 7.1.2.
118
,
, . , ,
.
,
.

(headlands) (pocket beach) ( 7.14, 7.15 []).
tombolo
, ,
. ,
, .
7.14 : tombolo.:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Breakwater_(structure)
119
7.15 : () tombolo, ()
.
(
), .
, .
, .
, .
, ,
, .
7.2.2.1

(...) 2 m . , ,
,
( 7.16). , ,
, ,
.
7.1.2.
120
7.16 .

(Rosati, 1990 US Army Corps of Engineers, 1992, 2002).

.
tombolo,
. , Ls
Yo, , Ls/Yo>2~3.
Ls/Yo , Ls/Yo<1,5.
, Ls/Yo<0,5, , ,
Ls/Yo<0,2, .
, Lg
80% Yo, Lg/Yo<0,8,
. Lg/Yo>0,8-1,3 ,
Lg/Yo>1,3, .
(7.5) (7.6) Silvester and Hsu (1997)

, 5
.
.
( 8)
- .
7.2.2.2

, , .
,
. ,
. ,
,
.
/ () (
7.17). 20%,
.

.
( 7.18), 3-4 m,
( ). 100-200
m,
( 7.18, 7.19).
121
7.17 .
122
7.18 .
, ,
,
( 7.1.2.), (
7.20). , ,
, ,
( 7.19).
, .

.
, ( 4.1.6.
4.33) ,
.
,
( 7.19). .
7.19 .
, ,
, ,
: Kt :
123
Ht
Kt =
Hi
(7.8)

Ht:
Hi:
, (
), ,
.
Briganti et al. (2003) t:
-0.31
B
K t =-0.40
Rc
+0.64 (1-e ) , / <10
-0.5
si
H si H si
(7.9)
-0.65
B
K t =-0.35
Rc
+0.51 (1-e -0.41
) , B/H >10
s
H si H si
(7.10)
His , R c
( ), B= , =
Irribarren, =tan / H si / L o , Lo (Lo=gTp2/2, Tp
) tan .
30-60 %, Kt =0.3-0.6.
Kt ( 10%).
,
(Pilarczyk, 2003 Koutsouvela et al.,
2007 Burcharth et al., 2007):
Ls
Yo, , Ls/Yo>(1 1.5)/(1-Kt).
(1 1,5)/(1-Kt).
LgYo/Ls2 >0,5 (1-Kt),
Lg 80%
Yo L, L<Lg<0,8 Yo.
Kt =0,4-0,5.
(Pilarczyk, 2003)
tombolo, . ,

,
( 7.20). ,
, ,
(Koutsouvela et al., 2007).
124
7.20
.
, ,
,
.
. ,
.
.

, . ,
, .
7.2.2.3
.
(
) .
REEF BALL (Harris, 2009).

( 7.21).
.
, , ,
. :
,
,
( ., 2011 Karambas et al. 2012). ,
. ,
, , .
, .. 60%, 36% ,
, .
125
7.21 .
7.2.2.4

( 7.22),
.
. 3-5
1-2 50-80% . ,
, ,

,
(Koutantos et al., 2002).
:
,
( )
.
, ,

.

( 1 m) .

.

.
, 2-3 m,
,
.
126
7.22 . :
http://www.coastalwiki.org/wiki/Floating_breakwaters
7.2.3 -

(, ..)
,
.
7.23 .

( 7.23). . ,
( -) ,
, .
127
7.24 . : https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coastal_management

( 7.24). 6.9.,
.
,
.
,
.
,
.
7.2.4 /
,
, (..
, ...)
. , , ,
.. .
, y0 , 1 2 m
, , .. 1:1.5, 1:2 ( 7.25).
d50f, ( )
, d50i, .
128
7.25 : () () .
,
( 7.25).
( ),
, ,
.
,
,
() , . ,

, :
,
( 7.26).
129
7.26 .
7.2.4.1
,
. .
( ) 6.21. (d(y)=Ap
y2/3, m=2/3), VN
yf. , ,
, mi y0.
VN yf, EBP
(Equilibrium each Profiles) Dean (2002, 2003 US Army Corps of Engineers,
2002).
:
Ap ( 6.21. m=2/3) :
Api Apf .
d50i ,
d50f .
( )
mi
"" h* (closure depth) ,
(6.23).
:
1. (Intersecting profiles)
2. (Non-intersecting profiles)

, ( 7.27).
130
7.27 : ()
d50* d50, ()
d50* .
VN (m3/m)
:
. (Intersecting profiles) pi<pf

5
VN y o 3h* y o 3
1
= + 2
BW* W* 5B W* A 3
3
2
1 pi
A pf

(7.11)
. (Non-intersecting profiles) pipf

5
3
3
2
3
VN y o 3h* y o A pi A pi 2
= + +
BW* W* 5B W* A pf A
pf

(7.12)
W* = ( h* / A pi )
2/3
h*.
y f :
y f h* 2/3
= y1 y1
W* mi W*
131
V h* 2/3 3h* 5/3 h* h* 4/3
y1
= y1 + y1 y1
BW* mi W* 5B 2 B mi W*
(7.13)
mi y1
.
:
,
.
, .
, ,

.
(
)
.
"" h* V
.
7.2.4.2
,
i ( 7.28).
, , ,
, .
(6.33), (Dean, 2002):
2x
Yi
2x

Ys (x,= +
4 Q t
t) erf 1 erf 1
2 4 Q t

(7.14)
KH c
2
1
Q =
b gb

8 (s )(1 n) h* + B
( 7.2)
7.28 (t=0)
t=t1 t=t2.
132
(7.14) (7.11), (7.12)
(7.13)
.
. ,
,
(.. ).

(
7.29 7.30).
, 7.2.1. 7.2.2.,
.
.
7.29 .
7.30 .
133
7.

American Society of Civil Engineers (ASCE), (1994). Coastal Groins and Nearshore Breakwaters. New
York: ASCE.
Basco, D.R. and Pope, J. (2004). Groin functional design guidance from the Coastal Engineering Manual.
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Briganti, R., van der Meer, J.W., Buccino, M. and Calabrese, M. (2003). Wave transmission behind low
crested structures. ASCE, Proc. Coastal Structures, Portland, Oregon.
Burcharth, H. F., Hawkins, S. J., Zanuttigh, B., and Lamberti, A. (2007). Environmental Design Guidelines
for Low Crested Coastal Structures. Amsterdam: Elsevier, , 376 p.
Dean, R.G. (1991). Equilibrium beach profiles: characteristics and applications. Journal of Coastal Research
7(1), 5384.
World Scientific.
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Karambas (eds.), Soft Shore Protection, . Dordrecht: Kluwer Academic Publishers, pp. 349-394.
Harris, L.E. (2009). Artificial Reefs for Ecosystem Restoration and Coastal Erosion Protection with
Aquaculture and Recreational Amenities. Reef Journal, Vol. 1 No. 1, pp. 235-246.
Kana, T.W., White, T.E. and McKee, P.A. (2004). Management and engineering guidelines from groin
rehabilitation. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 33, p. 57-82
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of an advanced numerical model. Proceedings of the 33rd International Conference on Coastal
Engineering 2012, 1(33), sediment 115. doi:10.9753/icce.v33.sediment.115
Karambas, Th.V., Koftis, Ch., Koutandos, E. , and Prinos, P. (2012). Innovative submerged
structures/vegetation effects on coastal erosion: numerical modeling of hydro-morphological
processes. Proceedings of the Twenty-second (2012) International Offshore and Polar Engineering
Conference, pp 1328-1334.
Koutantos, E., Karambas, Th.V., Koutitas, C., and Prinos, P. (2002). Shoreline changes in presence of a
floating breakwater used for coastal protection. Protection and Restoration of the Environment VI,
Skiathos, Greece, 403-410.
Koutsouvela, D., Karambas, Th.V., Avgeris, I., and Karathanassi, E. (2007). Functional design of submerged
breakwaters for coastal protection using two wave/morphological models. Coastal Structures 07.
Kraus, N.C., Hanson, H., and Blomgren, S.H. (1994). Modern Functional Design of Groin System.
Proceedings, 24th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, NY, pp 1327-1342.
Pelnard-Considere, R. (1956). Essai de theorie de l'Evolution des Forms de Rivages en Plage de Sable et de
Galets. 4th Journees de l'Hydraulique, les energies de la Mer, Question III, Rapport No. 1, pp 289-
298.
Pilarczyk, K.W. (2003). Design of low-crested (submerged) structures an overview. 6th International
Conference on Coastal and Port Engineering in Developing Countries, Colombo, Sri Lanka.
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134
Silvester, R., and Hsu, J.R.C. (1997). Coastal Stabilization. Singapore: World Scientific Publ. Co., 578 pp.
(Reprint of Silvester and Hsu, 1993).
Report EM 1110-2-1617

., .., . (2011).
- . 5
, : ..., . 325-334.

Dean, R.C. (1983). Principles of Beach Nourishment. Handbook of Co. Processes and Erosion. P. Komar
(ed.). CRC Press.
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Taiwan.
., , ., , . (2012).
. 2 . , 1023-1032.
, . (2004). : .
..., 2004.
7.
7.1

300 m. ,
, 500 m , 1 ;
: Hb=2,5 m, db=3,2 m,
h*+B=6 m, b=5 T=10 sec.
/
(7.1):
135

2
x
1 x x
2 Q t tan ( b )
Ys (x, t) =
exp erfc
2 Q t 2 Q t 2 Q t

Ys(x)
x=0 (7.1) :
1
2 Q t tan ( b )
Ys (x, t) = .

Ys=300 m, t:
t tan ( 5o )
1
=
300 2 0.287 t 3.22 107 sec

372 .
(x=0) 1
(604800 sec) (7.1)
.
500m :

2
x
1 x x
2 Q t tan ( b )
Ys (x, t) =
exp erfc
2 Q t 2 Q t 2 Q t

136
7.2
100 m,
100 m .
/
(7.4) (7.5).
R0:
(7.4) R:
2 2
R 40o 40o
=
C0 + C1 + C 2 =
1.32 0.33
R0 SH SH SH SH
.
40o 40o
2
R = 186 1.32 0.33

SH SH

SH R.
7.32.
7.31 7.2..
7.3
VN
: 0,137 %, He=5,0 m, e = 8 sec,
1/3, =1,0 m,
137
d50i=0,2 mm,
d50f. =0.6 mm y0=18 m.
/
h* (6.23):
(6.1) wff
wfi:
(6.22), Ap=0.5 wf0.44 , Ap:

pi =0.244 pf =0.311.
pi<pf
(7.11):
(=
h /A )
3/ 2
W*
= * pi (8.67=
/ 0.244)3/ 2 211.87 m .
VN=58.03 m3/m.
138
8.

, ,
. .

.
8.1 - WAVE_LS
( 5 km2)
WAVE-LS (Large Scale).

(3.54).
SWAN (Booij et al., 1999).
:
E c x E c y E c E
+ + + =
D
t x y
(8.1)
E (, x, y, t) (
3.2), (x,y) t, cx, cy, c
(x,y) , c
cg ) D
.
(5.2), ,
D (Battjes and Janssen, 1978,
Battjes and Stive, 1985):
1
D= Q b f p g H m
2
4
(8.2)
fp=1/Tp (Tp ), Hm (Hm=r h,

r , r0.6 h ) Qb
.
Rayleigh, Qb (5.4):
1-Q b H
= rms
-lnQ b r h
(8.3)
139
(8.2)
(.. ).
(5.4.)
(Roelvink, 1993):
E 10
D= 1 exp 2 2 f E
r E ref

(8.4)
E ref :
d2
E ref =g
8
(8.5)
(8.3)
.
(4.1) ,
. c C
(Holthhuijen et al., 2003):
cg c c 1
C = cos + sin 1 + + c g cos + sin
c x y 2 1+ x y
(8.6)
=
(
. cc g E ) .
cc g E
2

. x=y
. (ix, jy, m) nt
(8.1) :
n n
E i,n j,m E i,n j,m
1
[c x E]i,n j,m [c x E]in1, j,m c y E c y E
i, j1,m
+ + i, j,m
+
t x y
0.5[c E ]i, j,m+1 + [c E ]i, j,m 1.5[c E ]i, j,m1

n n n
+ =
Di,n j,m
2
(8.7)
cx, cy c.
cx, cy c :
n n
c y E c y E
i +1, j,m
cx < 0 i, j,m
x
140
n n
c y E c y E
i, j+1,m
cy < 0 i, j,m
x
1.5 [c E ]i, j,m+1 [ c E ]i, j,m 0.5[ c E ]i, j
n n n
c < 0
2
(8.8)
.
( cx, cy c) :
n 1 n 1
E n
E n 1
[c x E]i, j,m [c x E]i1, j,m
n 1 n 1
c y E c y E
i, j1,m
i, j,m i, j,m
+ + i, j,m
+
t x y
0.5 [ c E ]i, j,m +1 + [ c E ]i, j,m 1.5[ c E ]i, j,m 1

n 1 n 1 n 1
+ Di,n j,m
= 1
2
(8.9)
cx, cy c n-1.

e .
e :
e =
i, j E i, jn E i, jn*
i, j E i, jn
(8.10)
* .
,
.
WAVE-LS ,
, ( ) .
, .
( , )
x ( y=0) 5.

.
8.2 WAVE_L
( 5 km2) (
) WAVE-L
(Linear), (3.50).
8.2.1
(ix, jy) nt ( t x, y
) (3.50) , ,
, Uw Vw (
8.1), :
141
in+1 in (U w d)i +1,j (U w d)i,j (Vw d)i,j+1 (Vw d)i,j
n n n n
+ + =
0
t x y
n +1 n +1 n +1
Uw Uw n
1 (c )i,j (c )i 1,j 1
2 2
g i,jn d i,j d i-1,j
+ =
i,j i,j
t d i x d i,j cosh(k i,j d i,j ) x
Uw n
2 U w i,jn + U w n
Uw n
2 U w i,jn + U w n
h + h f b U w i,j
i+1,j i-1,j i,j+1 i,j-1 n
x 2
x 2
n +1 n +1 n +1
Vw Vw n
1 (c )i,j (c )i,j-1 1
2 2
g i,jn d i,j d i,j-1
+ =
i,j i,j
t d i x d i,j cosh(k i,j d i,j ) x
Vw n
2 Vw i,jn + Vw n
Vw n
2 Vw i,jn + Vw n
h + h f b Vw i,j
i+1,j i-1,j i,j+1 i,j-1 n
x 2
x 2
(8.11)
8.1 WAVE_L.
(
sponge layer Larsen and Dancy, 1983).
xs ( 3.3). ,
Uw Vw , , (x) :
=
(
(x) exp 2 x/x 2 xs/x ln
)
(8.12)
142
xs
xs/x.
.
i*(t)
( 8.2)
20dx (Larsen and Dancy, 1983, Lee and Suh, 1998).
:
H t
*i = 2 sin ( (t-t f ) ) cos c
2 x
(8.13)

tf=sin( ) x/c
, c , t
x , .
8.2 .
i*(t) , .
i*(t)
. 20 (xs/x=20) , (sponge layer),
.
: Uw=0 Vw=0 ( /s=0, s
).
WAVE-L , ,
, ( )
, , .... (
, )
5, ,
143
WAVE-LS,
.
8.2.2

,
.
, ,
.
.
( 8.3)
h 3.5.1.
(3.50), , :
( U w d )
+ = 0
t x
U w c 2 2Uw
+ =0
t d x x 2
(8.14)
8.3 .
, 2Sw ,
. 0x2S w
x=2Sw. ai ar,
(=0) :
aie (
i t kx )
+ are (
i t + kx )
=
(8.15)
2=gk tankd k=2/L.
a1e (
i t Kx )
+ a2e (
i t + Kx )
=
(8.16)
:
144
2 iK 2 = c 2 K 2
(8.17)
Uw (8.15) (8.16)
( Uw x=0 Uw=0 x=2Sw)
(8.14) Rs=ai/ar:
K
( ) (
1+ e4iKSw 1 e4iKSw )
Rs = k
K
k
( ) (
1+ e4iKSw + 1 e4iKSw )
(8.18)
Rs , (8.17)
(8.18) .
Rs
Bruun:
Rs=A (1-eB Ir)

(8.19)

A=1.3508, B=-0.710, Ir=(g/2)1/2 tan T/H1/2
tan .
H
Karambas and Bowers (1996).
8.2.3
3, ,
,
. d
u c.
.
h (Karambas and Koutitas, 1992).
(Battjes, 1975):
1/ 3
D
h =2h

(8.20)
D ,
(8.2) (8.5).
8.3 WICIR (Wave Induced CIRculation)

(4.18)
(, 1985) WAVE_L.
145
8.4 .
(ix, jy) nt ( t x, y
) (4.18) ,
(, 8.4, , U
V ), (, 1985):
in+1- in (U (d+))i+1,j -(U (d+))i,j (V (d+))i,j+1 -(V (d+))i,j

n n n n
+ + =0
t x y
U i,jn+1-U i,jn U n -U n U n -U n n+1 -n+1
+U i,jn i+1,j i-1,j +Vi,jn i,j+1 i,j-1 +g i,j i-1,j =
t 2x 2y x
Rsx n by
n
U i+1,j -2 U i,jn +U i-1,j
n n
U i,j+1 -2 U i,jn +U i,j-1
n n
h + h -
x 2 y 2 h h
Vi,jn+1 -Vi,jn n
n
U i+1,j n
-U i-1,j n
n
U i,j+1 n
-U i,j-1 i,jn+1 -i,j-1
n+1
+U +V +g =
t 2x 2y y
i,j i,j
Rsy n bx n
n
Vi+1,j -2 Vi,jn +Vi-1,j
n n
Vi,j+1 -2 Vi,jn +Vi,j-1
n
h + h -
x 2 y 2 h h
(8.21)
:
Snxx i+1,j Snxx i-1,j Snxy j +1,i Snxy j -1,i
=Rsx n
+
2 x 2 y
S n
S n
S n
yy j +1,i Snyy j -1,i
=Rsy n xy i+1,j xy i-1,j
+
2 x 2 y
h=d+ .
: U=0 V=0, /n=0, n
.
146
=E n ( U ) + ( V )
i j
n 2
ij
n 2
ij
h ij x y
2
(8.22)
E n+1 E n

E n+1
(10-3-10-4).

, WAVE_L
(4.19).
8.4
SEDTR
8.2.1. 8.3 .
(ix, jy) nt (6.20)
, (
) ( ), :
n n n n
z b in+1-z b in 1 q xt i+1,j-q xt i,j 1 q xt i,j+1-q xt i,j
=- - +
t (1 n) x (1 n) y
1 z nbi+1, j 2 z nbi, j + z bin 1, j 1 z nbi, j+1 2 z nbi, j + z bi,
n
j1
+ q tx ij
n
++ q tx ij
n
(1 n) x 2
(1 n) y 2
(8.23)
,
. ,
WAVE_L WICIR,
. (8.23), .
(.
).
8.5 1LINE
(6.34) 6 :
ys 1 Q t
= q0
t ( h* + B) x
(8.24)
147
8.5 .
.
(8.23) . Qt
( ) ys .
ix nt ( x t )
(8.23) :
ysin +1 ysin 1 Q nt i+1 Q nt i

=
q oi
n
+1/2
t ( h* + B) 2x

(8.25)

, :
. (groin )

:
Qt=0
(8.26)
. ( )
:
Qt= Qt0
(8.27)
Qt0
(0<<1) .
.

, ,
(/ ) :
Qt= Qt1
(8.28)
Qt Qt1
.

( ). ,
qo,
.
148

,
, qo
.
qo
( )
1/2
(6.17) (6.18) Hanson and Kraus (2011): q= q= 3
0 R K w f H o / d 50 . , ,
6.7.2., /
,
.
(6.18) t (Yamamoto et al., 1996).
1/2
Bt/T H3
q0 = K e wf o
d 50
(8.29)
B=4.2.10-3 (tan)1.57, tan .

1000-2000 qo .
qo (8.29) Dean Fo ( 6.24),

(.. Fo>4.0 Fo<2.4,
Hanson and Kraus, 2011). Fo>4.0 -qo, Fo<2.4
+ qo. Fo = 3.2 ( ) qo=0, Fo
0 qo.
,
( 6.10.).
8.6 -
8.6.1

FORTRAN 77. DATA
*.DAT.
(im x jm) ( x y,
x-max=im . x, y-max=jm . x). x i y j.
, , dx dt.

( x) (input).
8.6.2 WAVE_LS.FOR
DEPTH.DAT .
: im jm. j ( j=1)
i ( ). .
. im
j . depth.dat
im x jm=70 x 70.
DATA :
:HO
: per
t x: DT,DX
( ): Ao
149
: slope ( .. 30 1/30)
: tend.

.
dx dx= L/5- L/2 (L = ).

dt : dt<0.25dx/c ( c ).
:
HEIGHT.DAT, :
x, y, H(x,y), -d(x,y), (x,y)
WN.DAT :
x, y, H(x,y) sin(), H(x,y) cos ()
8.6 (H=1m, T=6.0 sec, =45o, NA ).
8.6.
, : H=1m, T=6.0 sec, =45o, NA . To FORTRAN
.
8.6.3 WAVE_L.FOR
:
DEPTH.DAT
EDDY.DAT
ICOD.DAT
ICODSB.DAT
DEPTH.DAT 8.6.2.
.
EDDY.DAT
8.2.2.
150
, .
( 1/5)
.
ICOD.DAT 0 1. 1
( , )
, 0 .
ICODSB.DAT 0 1. 1
() ,
. 0 .
DATA :
-rms :
: per
t x: DT,DX
( ): fin
: slope ( .. 30 1/30)
: tend.

3 (
).
dx dx=L/20 (L = ).
dt : dt<0.5dx/c ( c ),
( Courant).
:
HEIGHT.DAT, :
x, y, H(x,y)
BOTTOM.DAT :
x,y,ub-max,vb-max,h, Qb
ub-max,vb-max , h
(8.20) Qb ( 8.3).
SXXYY.DAT :
sxx,syy,sxy
sxx,syy,sxy Sxx, Syy Sxy ( 4.19).
8.6.4 WICIR.FOR
WAVE_L, , DEPTH.DAT
COD.DAT WICIR. ,
DATA, (), (per)
(DT DX).
(
) VEL.DAT :
x,y,U,V,
8.6.5 SEDTR.FOR
WAVE_L WICIR, ,
DEPTH.DAT, COD.DAT ICODSB.DAT,
SEDTR. DATA,
(), (per), (DT DX),
151
d50, (slp, .. 0.05 1/20)
iend ( iend . dt).
:
Q2D.DAT :
x, y, qtx, qty ()
NEWBED.DAT :
x, y, d,dold,zb
d , dold zb
.
8.7
(H=1m, T=6.0 sec, =0o).
152
8.7 .
, , DEPTH.DAT, ,
.
WAVE_L WICIR. SEDTR,
, ...
8.7.
. :
H=1m, T=6.0 sec, =0o.
To FORTRAN .
8.6.6 1LINE.FOR
1LINE.FOR ys
(8.24) ( 8.25).
:
x t: dx,dt
: im
: tend
h* + B : hh
: gamma
ILDATA.DAT, 4x, =
. :
yos, Hb, ab
qo.
153
(8.26) (8.27) ILDATA.DAT
Hb. .. Hb=0, Qt=0,
.
LINE.DAT : x, ys , yos
.
( , )
He :
H i2 Ti f i
H T=
2
f i
e
(8.30)
i (, ),
Hi, fi
.
, - (),
() () .
15%, 8% 5% Hi, 0.3, 0.6 1.0 m
Ti, 2.2, 3, 3.3 sec. (7.9) =3
sec, He = ,
He2 =(0.32 2.2 0.15 + 0.62 3.0 0.08 +1.02 3.3 0.05)/(0.15+0.08+0.05)
He= 0.58 m.
, .
Hb b
(..
28% ).
. ,
.
.
ILDATA.DAT :
DATA DT,DX,IM,TEND,HH/.25,10.,50,1500000.,2.5/
8.8:
8.8 tend=1.500.000 secs.
ILDATA.DAT 30 31
.
To FORTRAN .
154
8.

Battjes, J.A., and Janssen, J. P. F. M. (1978). Energy loss and set-up due to breaking of random waves.
Proceedings of 16th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, pp. 569587. New York: Am.
Soc. of Civ. Eng.
Battjes, J.A., and Stive, M. J. F. (1985). Calibration and verification of a dissipation model for random
breaking waves. J. Geophys. Res., 90(C5), 91599167.
Battjes, J.A. (1975). Modelling of turbulence in the surf zone. Proc. Symp. Modelling Techniques. California:
ASCE, pp. 1050-1061.
Booij, N., Ris, R.C. and Holthuijsen. L.H. (1999). A third-generation wave model for coastal regions 1. Model
description and validation. Journal of Geophysical Research, 104, C4, 7649-7666.
Hanson, . and Kraus, N.C. (2011). Long-Term Evolution of a Long-Term Evolution Model. Journal of
Coastal Research: Special Issue 59, pp. 118 129.
Holthuijsen, L.H., Hemran, A. and Booij, N. (2003). Phase-decoupled refraction-diffraction for spectral wave
models. Coastal Engineering, 49, 291-305.
Karambas, Th.V. and Koutitas, C., (1992). A breaking wave propagation model based on the Boussinesq
equations, Coastal Engineering, 18, 1-19.
Karambas, Th.V. and Bowers, E.C. (1996). Representation of partial wave reflection and transmission for
rubble mound coastal structures. Hydrosoft 96, Malaysia.
Larsen, J., and Dancy, H. (1983). Open Boundaries in Short Wave Simulations A New Aproach. Coastal
Lee, C. and Suh, K.D. (1998). Internal generation of waves for time-dependent mild-slope equations. Coastal
Rattanapitikon, W., Karunchintadit, R., and Shibayama, T. (2003). Irregular wave height transformation using
representative wave approach. Coastal Engineering Journal 45(3), 489510.
Roelvink, J.A. (1993). Dissipation in random wave groups incident on a beach. Coastal Engineering, 19, pp.
127-150.
Yamamoto, Y., Horikawa, K., Tanimoto, K. (1996). Prediction of shoreline change considering cross-shore
sediment transport, pp. 3405-3418. Int. Conf. on Coastal Engineering 1996, ASCE, Orlando, USA.

, . (1985). . : .

Christopoulos, S., Avgeris, I., and Karambas, Th.V. (2012). HMAR_HARBOURL: An Integrated Numerical
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. 7 . .
., ., , . (2011). O
(HMAR-CPIM). 5
B , .
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-

EBP Equilibrium each Profiles

2.3 (Stokes 1 Airy)

CE (Eulerian time-mean fluid velocity)

(x, 0)= 0, z=0

(2.38) Laplace (2.35) (2.36),

3.6 ks=/ d/Lo.

k s-nonlinear = A exp [(H o / Lo ) B]

4kr -ikrcos(-) 4kr + -ikrcos(+)

() Fresnel C() S():

1 + C() + S() C() S()

- 43.8 (1-e-19 tan ) b2

tan <0.1 H o /L <0.06, H o =Ho kR.

(3.41) (3.43) (3.44) ,

3.8. 25 (=25) = 90o

: =0.1303 3.51 = 0.46 m.

(4.4) (4.1) (4.2)

< ww ww > 1<p>

<p>=g( -z) < w w w w >

<uwww> <vwww> (z= +)

sx = < u w > bx = < u w >

sy = < vw > by = < vw >

Sxx = ( < u w u w w w w w > ) dz + 12 g ( <2 > )

Syy = ( < v w v w w w w w > ) dz + 12 g ( <2 > )

Sxy = < u w v w > dz

(4.17) (uw, vw, ww)

2.5 Shields 2.5d50:

fcw=acw fc+(1-a cw)fw

acw x : acw-x=U/(U+Uo), y : acw-

M=< v dz> +< v dz> = <v> dz +< v dz> =< v dz>

=h+z ( z=0 =h , z= -(d+)=-h

(Longuet-Higgins, 1970 Dean and Dalrymple, 2004 Svendsen, 2006):

0.001-0.003, fcw0.008-0.01, 0.8 P

H 100 100% Hrms

Rayleigh (>1/3) = 0,135.

H max = H rms lnN .

S(f,) =S(f) G(f,)

JONSW s=1 m, Tp=6.0 sec, =0 G()=(2/)cos2 () .

cr (Van Rijn, 1993):

q sx =< u(z, t) c(z, t) dz >

q sy = < v(z, t) c(z, t) dz >

cw,m =(c2 + 2w,m + 2 w,mc cos )1/2

qtx= qbx +qsx qty= qby +qsy

(6.14) (6.15), (6.4), (6.7),

qxt= qbx +qsx qyt= qby +qsy

qxt, qyt , qxt=qbx+qsx, qyt=qby+qsy , Ubt, Vbt

zb , n (n0.4) qtx, qty

(2.26) (3.24) (6.28)

0.39, =0.39, (6.29)

i= 1, ... (Hbi, bi)

7.1 (=1.5 m, T=6.0 s).

(7.5) (7.6) Silvester and Hsu (1997)

. (Intersecting profiles) pi<pf

. (Non-intersecting profiles) pipf

R = 186 1.32 0.33

(6.22), Ap=0.5 wf0.44 , Ap:

fp=1/Tp (Tp ), Hm (Hm=r h,

0.5[c E ]i, j,m+1 + [c E ]i, j,m 1.5[c E ]i, j,m1

0.5 [ c E ]i, j,m +1 + [ c E ]i, j,m 1.5[ c E ]i, j,m 1

t d i x d i,j cosh(k i,j d i,j ) x

t d i x d i,j cosh(k i,j d i,j ) x

Rs=A (1-eB Ir)

8.3 WICIR (Wave Induced CIRculation)

in+1- in (U (d+))i+1,j -(U (d+))i,j (V (d+))i,j+1 -(V (d+))i,j