Technique Basics
Blackwork I
by Ilse Altherr
Copyright 2003
This booklet may be reproduced by The Embroiderers’ Guild of America, Inc. or by its
chapters for use by its members. No other reproduction is permitted, in whole or in part,
without written permission from the author.Historical annotations
‘The rebitth of blackwork is generally accredited to a Spanish lady by name of
Katharine of Aragon, daughter of Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand of Spain,
Katharine traveled to England in 1501 to become the wife of King Arthur, eldest sen
of Henry Vil, When King Arthur died shortly thereafter, she married Prince Henry
who soon after ascended to the throne to become King Henry VIL
In her trousseau Katharine had many items embroidered in black on white
Evidently, the Moots, a race mixed of Berbers and Arabs who conquered Spain in
the 8” century, inspired the pattems. The designs consisted mainly of flowers
surrounded by scrolls of heavy braiding. Small animal motifS were also incorporated.
During King Henty's reign many women passed through the court of England. The
King hired a young Austrian painter, Hans Holbein the Younger, who at the lime
lived in Switzerland. Holbein painted the ladies of the court in their clegant attire, as
well as the King who was known for bis taste in elaborately embroidered clothes
“Blackwork™ 1 6408Welcome to az introductory course in blackwork for the New Kid on the Block series! While
using this booklet you will leam two different methods of working blackwork pattems. The
reversible method arrived at by daring or “one-way” running stitches, and the double
running stitch method some times referred to as Holbein embroidery.
The design pictured on the font page of this booklet can be used as a small tablemat; it ean be
framed, used as a pocket or, if backed, used as a small bag. My preference would be to make a
pincushion; this one would do by folding the outer triangles to the back and lacing or
whipping the edges together to form a small pillow, You have a choice and may use the
project as you see fit,
The finished embroidery counts 136 threads by 136 threads.
Materials you will need to complete the project:
A S.inch square of countable material, such as 24 count evenweave linen, of...
22 count Hardanger fabric, or .
evenweave linen or cotton fabric of the count
‘you prefer to stitch on,
‘You will need 1 dail of black Peart cotton size 12. 2 strands of 6-stranded cotton can replace
this, should it be difficult for you to obtain the Pear! cotton,
Equipment you will need:
A.6” embroidery hoop, preferably made of wood,
A tapestry (blunt) needle size 24 and a chenille needle (sharp) of the same size.
Embroidery or any other type of scissors.
Water soluble marking pen,
Basting thread
Fabric and Design Preparation:
Fold the fabric in half horizontally and vertically. Finger-crease the folds. Baste accurately
along the creases, making sure that you stay in the grain of the fabric. You have now
established the conter of the fabric, that is, where the basting fines intersect in the center.
Please baste by going over and under four (4) fabric threads. Bring the needle up through the
fabric on the bottom left side of a vertical fabric thread and insert four (4) threads akead.
See diagram,
vei — FACE deel,
fabric thread og, Tbe f
Aap be
FAFSA FFA :
Basting diagram
“Bilackwork™ 2 6/03