Evaluation of the Utilization of
Supercritical Fluid Technology for
Analytical, Process and Environmental
Applications in Textiles c92c4
Mike J. Drews, project leader (Clemson);
Keith R. Beck (NC State);
Matthew E. Sikorski, A. Teja (Georgia Tech)
I We are researching- supercritical
- CO. II
used both as a processing fluid and to ex-
tract finishes, lubricants, oils, etc. from
L
fiber for subsequent analysis.
J Focus on the Cutting Room
Supercritical fluid extraction is an emerging analytical
technique that has the potential to both reduce extraction
times of textile substrates by a factor of 5-10 and to drasti-
cally reduce the amount of solvent required for analysis of ex-
tractables. Our primary analytical focus continues to be the
establishment of standard methods that employ supercritical
CO, extraction as a nontoxic alternative to organic solvent
Soxhlet methods. Such applications include the analysis of
synthetic fiber spin finishes, warp yam sizing lubricants,
knitting oils, etc. In addition, we are investigating ways that
supercritical fluid can be used as a processing fluid.
Extraction
In a series of experiments, we extracted finish from
commercial polyester yams using supercritical CO, over a
large range of temperature (45120C) and pressure (147-680
atmospheres). Neither temperature nor pressure intluenced
the amount of finish extracted. These results demonstrate the
utility of supercritical CO, as a Soxhlet alternative for fiber
finish analysis. We are also studying the use of supercritical
CO, to extract cotton fabrics. To minimize channeling and to
maximize the contact of the cotton fibers with supercritical
CO, s fabrics are now being cut into small strips and tightly
packed into the extraction thimble. These procedural
changes have increased the amount of extractables and im-
proved precision. Mechanistic studies of the extraction proc-
ess are now underway.
As a Process Technology
Because supercritical CO, generates no waste effluent
stream, is low cost and totally recyclable, the broader techni-
cal question is to explore its use as a process fluid. Super-
critical CO, has already been demonstrated in the textile in-
dustry for such applications as dyeing, scouring, bleaching
and dry cleaning. Additional applications might include ap-
plying finishes, extrusion and specific extraction of compo-
nents from solid waste streams for recovery and recycling.
Another potentially important use of supercritical CO, is
the solubilization, separation and recovery of individual com-
ponents from complex textile structures, such as carpets.
Initially, we are studying the use of supercritical CO, as a sol-
vent to separate and recover the polypropylene split film pri-
mary backing from carpets. In another study we are
extracting volatile organic compounds, such as
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4-phenylcyclohexane and styrene monomer, from carpets and
latexed carpet backings.
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Garment Engineering
Research in the design, development and manufacture
of garments
System Modeling
for Apparel Manufacturing:
G93Nl
Charlotte Jacobs-Blecha (Georgia Tech)
We have developed a model of the cutting
room which integrates the cut order
planning and marker making processes.
L ,
For cut order planning in the apparel industry, the problem
begins with a given set of garments, in varying sizes, to be
manufactured. A plan is needed for spreading the fabric and
dividing the garments into various sections of the spread so
as to minimize fabric waste and the cost of cutting, but still
satis@ the customers order. The cut is performed by spread-
ing fabric onto a table, often spreading several layers of fabric
for cutting efficiency (See Figure at right). The actual layout
of the pattern pieces is called a marker.
The key inputs for the cut order planning problem are the
sizes to be cut in each section, ply height in each section and
the number of sections required to fill the order. The size
combinations per section are passed to the marker making
function for actual determination of the marker itself Addi-
tional output is the estimated efficiency of the marker (in per-
centage of fabric utilization), the cutting cost per unit, the
total perimeter to be cut and the total area to be cut.
In our previous research, we showed that cutting costs do
not have a significant impact on the total cost of cut order
planning, so our methods are now based solely on the cost of
the fabric. Three heuristic algorithms were developed for
solving the cut order planning problem. The Savings heuris-
tic assigns size combinations to a section based on the fabric
savings achieved by combining them into one section. The
Cherry Picking algorithm builds sections by combining cer-
tain sizes based on the best utilization of fabric. The Im-
provement algorithm takes an existing solution and tries to
improve it by exchanging sizes in different sections or by
combining existing sections into one section. These algo-
rithms are embedded in a user interface which we have devel-
oped in the WindowsTM environment on a DOS-based PC.
where graphics and statistics are displayed for quick under-
standing of the results.
Both the cut order planning and marker making problems
are combinatorial in nature, and require heuristic methods for
obtaining solutions efficiently. We can integrate the two by
Notional Tucailc Cenier Quarterly Repoti: Decamba 31,1993
sectiOn
Length=10
PlyHedghtDlO ; we are targeting civilian applications of
.
Y fabrics requiring an active sorbant layer to
L igecthm2
; Length=20
i
:
: PlyHdght~l3 !
3ecgon3
lmgth-40
PlyHeight= f
3ectlon4
Length=30
PlyHelght.23 i
.
: agents. We have just completed an end
Fabric spread on the cutting table in varying ply heights
listing all possible size combinations for the current order
and the length of fabric required, then solve the cut order
planning problem using one of the improvement heuristics.
The markers for the order are then designed, using automated
software. This description constitutes one iteration of the in-
tegrated process and can be repeated until no signif?cant
changes are found.
The one remaining task in this project is to develop a
scheduling method for the cutting room system which we will
begin 14194. [Graduate Research Assistant: John Eskew
(Georgia Tech)J
For Further Information, wee page 24
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Development of
Practical and Comfortable
Barrier Textile Systems G9Xl
Steven B. Warner, Prashant Desai
(Georgia Tech); Lisa A. Shanley, P. Shanley,
B. Lewis Slaten, David Pascoe, Ian R. Hardin,
German Mills (Auburn); Solomon P. Hersh,
Roger L. Barker, Paul A. Tucker,
Keith R. Beck, Itzhak Shalev,
Mansour I-I. Mohamed (NC State)
We are developing garment systems that
protect the wearer against liquid and air-
bourne hazards, but yet are comfortable
and cost effective.
J
One of the most serious limitations of existing barrier fab-
rics is that they lack acceptable comfort properties. They are
generally thick fabrics, often being completely impervious to
moisture vapor transport. The objective of this project is to
assemble a world class team charged with understanding the
underlying principles associated with effective barrier fabrics
and developing a new class of cost effective garments that are
comfortable as well as protect the wearer. Our focus is the
National Tua% Centa Quorter& Report Decemba 31,1993
total garment system. In the first stage
:
i
protect workers in the chemical and in-
dustrial fields against liquid and airborne
user survey of hazardous waste disposal
workers to categorize some of these users.
New Materials - Grafting
Potential protective fabrics were made
by reacting several different combinations
of silicon or titanium dioxide particles
with organic molecules, then grafting the
products onto cotton fabrics. These fab-
rics are now being characterized and
evaluated for comfort.
New Materials - Carbonization of Aramid
Carbonized aramid fibers are made by rapidly pyrolizing
the surface of aramid fibers to obtain a black degraded ara-
mid skin while maintaining an essentially unchanged fiber
core. We have developed a model to explain the chemical
and physical changes that occur with this pyrolysis. The
model states that chain scission occurs in the fiber, producing
a product which escapes from the near surface regions of the
fiber, allowing crosslinking. Inside the fiber, chain scission
is accelerated by the presence of oxygen and occurs preferen-
tially in the defect layers. Hence, the fracture surface of Kev-
la? changes from fibrillar throughout to brittle in the
crosslinked regions, resulting in substantial declines in fiber
strength. The model agrees with our data from X-ray analy-
sis of both core and skin, intrinsic viscosity, fiber tenacity,
fracture surface analysis of skin and core, etc.
Fabric Testing
Prototype protective fabrics from both grafted cotton fibers
and carbonized aramid fibers were evaluated for protective
efficacy and wearer comfort, including thermal insulation
and permeability. The results were entered into a theoretical
model we developed to predict comfort in terms of maximum
allowable exertion. We also measured abrasion resistance,
tensile strength, stiffness, water resistance chemical penetra-
tion resistance (for acetone, methanol and sodium hydrox-
ide), etc. and compared these properties with those of
commercial barrier fabrics.
Garment Testing
We have begun to collect physiological data for these newly
developed protective garment systems on human subjects.
Data will include thermal characteristics, skin and core tem-
peratures and heart rate during resting, walking and exercise.
In addition, we will evaluate our subjects ability to perform
simple motor tasks while wearing the protective garment
systems and examine their ease of movement, flexibility,
reach and speed to accomplish tasks as well as the stress ar-
eas within the system. Thermal infrared imaging will be
used to determine where liquid or airborne agents might be
able to penetrate the garment system. Also we continue to
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