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Africa-Rwanda v1 m56577569830500695 PDF
Africa-Rwanda v1 m56577569830500695 PDF
Africa-Rwanda v1 m56577569830500695 PDF
717
Rwanda
Welcome to Le Pays des Milles Collines (Land of a Thousand Hills). Rwanda is a lush country
of endless mountains and stunning scenery, and nowhere are the mountains more majestic
than the peaks of the Virunga volcanoes in the far northwest of the country. The volcanoes
form a natural frontier with the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) and Uganda, and hid-
den among the bamboo and dense jungle of their forbidding slopes are some of the worlds
last remaining mountain gorillas. It is the opportunity to encounter these contemplative
creatures at close quarters that continues to draw visitors to Rwanda.
Theres more to Rwanda than magical mountain gorillas, however. The shores of Lake
Kivu conceal some of the best inland beaches on the continent. Deep in the southwest, Parc
National Nyungwe Forest is the most extensive montane rainforest in the region, and home
to many primates. But its not all monkey business Kigali is safe and sophisticated.
Rwanda is all too often associated with the horrific events that unfolded in 1994. It has been
etched into the worlds consciousness as one of the most savage genocides in history. What
happened is beyond belief, but the country has taken giant strides towards recovery.
Many visitors are unsure about travelling to Rwanda given its history. However, as long as
security and stability persist, Rwanda is a refreshing country in which to travel, where tourists
remain a relative novelty and the rewards of the present outweigh the risks of the past.
FAST FACTS
Area 26,338 sq km
ATMs None that accept international cards
Borders Burundi, Democratic Republic of
Congo (DRC), Tanzania, Uganda
Budget US$25 per day
Capital Kigali
Languages French, English, Kinyarwanda
Money Rwanda franc (RFr); US$1 = RFr545
Population 8.7 million
Seasons Wet (mid-March to mid-May, mid-October to mid-
December); dry (mid-May to mid-October, mid-December to
mid-March)
Telephone Country code %250; international access code
RWANDA
%00
Time GMT/UTC +2
Visa US$60 for three months from embassy; US$60 for two-week
extendible visas at major land border crossings and Kigali airport
718 R W A N D A H i g h l i g h t s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com R W A N D A H i s t o r y 719
HIGHLIGHTS death of the mwami in 1959, armed clashes In October 1990, the entire intertribal issue
Parc National des Volcans (p726) Scale the HOW MUCH? began between the two tribes, marking the was savagely reopened when 5000 well-armed
slopes of the Virunga volcanoes to en- Tracking mountain gorillas US$375 start of an ethnic conflict that was to cul- rebels of the Rwanda Patriotic Front (RPF),
counter gorillas in the mist. minate in the 1994 genocide. Tutsi fled the a Tutsi military front, invaded Rwanda from
Fresh fish at a decent restaurant US$5
Kigali Memorial Centre (p724 Come face- to US$10
country in numbers, resettling in neighbour- their bases in western Uganda. Two days later,
to-face with the horrors of the past at ing Uganda, Kenya and Tanzania. at Habyarimanas request, France, Belgium
this haunting genocide museum in the Internet access US$1 to US$2 per hour Following independence in 1962, the Hutu and Zare (as the DRC was then known) flew
capital. New Times newspaper US$0.50 majority came to power under Prime Minister in troops to assist the Rwandan army to re-
Gisenyi (p728) Check out Rwandas very 100km bus ride US$2
Gregoire Kayibanda. The new government pulse the rebels.
own Costa del Kivu at Gisenyi, home to introduced quotas for Tutsis, limiting op- The RPF invaded again in 1991, this time
unspoilt beaches and clear waters. LONELY PLANET INDEX portunities for education and work, and small better armed and prepared. By early 1992 the
Parc National Nyungwe Forest (p729) Pene- groups of Tutsi exiles began to launch guer- RPF was within 25km of Kigali. A cease-fire
trate the lush canopy of this forest, home 1L petrol US$1 rilla raids from neighbouring Uganda. In the was cobbled together and the warring parties
to chimpanzees and huge troops of colo- 1L bottled water US$0.50 round of bloodshed that followed, thousands brought to the negotiating table. A peace ac-
bus monkeys. Bottle of Primus (720ml) US$1.50
more Tutsis were killed and tens of thousands cord between the government and the RPF
Kigali by night (p725) Settle into a gar- fled to neighbouring countries. was finally signed in August 1993.
den bar in Kigali, order a large bottle of Souvenir T-shirt US$10
Primus beer and take in a sunset over Beef brochette US$0.50 A Simmering Conflict The Genocide
Rwandas other 999 hills. The massacre of Hutus in Burundi in 1972 In 1994, the conflict erupted again on an in-
reignited the old hatreds in Rwanda and comprehensible scale. An estimated 800,000
CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO monkeys before continuing to Cyan- prompted the army commander, Major Gen- Rwandans were killed in just three months,
The average daytime temperature is around gugu (p729) and up Lake Kivu to Kibuye eral Juvenal Habyarimana, to oust Kayibanda mostly by Interahamwe militias gangs
24C, except in the higher mountains, which (p729). Continue the beach fix at Gisenyi in 1973. Habyarimana made some progress of youths armed with machetes, guns and
take up a lot of the country, where the range (p728) before heading east to Parc Na- towards healing the ethnic divisions during other weapons supplied by officials close to
is 10C to 15C. Rwanda can be visited at any tional des Volcans (p726) to meet the the early years of his regime, but before long Habyarimana. Three million people fled the
time of year. The dry season from mid-May to majestic mountain gorillas. it was business as usual. country to refugee camps in Tanzania, the
mid-October is easier for tracking mountain
gorillas, but the endless hills are barren, a con- HISTORY RWANDA 0 50 km
0 30 miles
trast to the verdant greens of the wet season. Early Days To Butembo
To Kampala
Peak season for gorilla tracking is July and The original Rwandans, the Twa Pygmies, (130km)
(500km)
August; travelling outside this time means it were gradually displaced by bigger groups of UGANDA Kage
ra
is easier to arrange a permit. migrating Hutu tribespeople from 1000. Later Rutshuru
It rains more frequently and heavily in the came the Tutsi from the north, arriving from River
Kisoro
northeast, where the volcanoes are covered by the 16th century onwards. The authority of Kabale
Parc
rainforest. The summit of Karisimbi (4507m), the Rwandan mwami (king) was far greater National des Katuna
Virungas Karisimbi Cyanika
Masisi
the highest peak in Rwanda, is often covered than that of his opposite number in Burundi, Nyiragongo
(3470m)
(4507m) Ruhengeri
Lake
Gatuna
with sleet or snow. and the system of feudalism that developed Bulera
Sak Parc
Gabil
here was unsurpassed in Africa outside Ethi- Goma
National
des Volcans
Byumba
Parc
ITINERARIES opia. Tutsi overlordship was reinforced by DEMOCRATIC National
REPUBLIC OF Gisenyi Lake de l'Akagera
One week Concentrate on the north of the ceremonial and religious observance. CONGO Muhazi
country. Pay your respects at the Kigali TANZANIA
KIGALI
Memorial Centre (p724) before heading European Meddling Lake
Kivu
Kayonza
for the brooding volcanoes that form the The Germans took the country in 1890 and Lake
Kalehe Ntarama
border between Rwanda, Uganda and the held it until 1916, when their garrisons sur- Kibuye Gitarama
Kibungo
Burigi
DR Congo. Track the gorillas at Parc Na- rendered to Belgian forces during WWI. Dur- Chutes de Ndaba Nyamata
tional des Volcans (p726), one of lifes ul- ing Belgian rule, the power and privileges of Rusumo
Parc National
timate experiences. Head west to Gisenyi the Tutsi increased, as the new masters found Nyungwe Forest Burigi
Kamembe Game
(p728), the Costa del Kivu, and kick back it convenient to rule indirectly through the Kabare
Gikongoro
Lake
Ngara
Reserve
Cyangugu Rweru
on the sands. mwami and his princes. Bukavu
Kirund
RWANDA
RWANDA
Butare
Two weeks Kick off from the capital Kigali However, in 1956, Mwami Rudahigwa Bugarama B3
Walungu
(p722) and head south to the intellec- called for independence from Belgium and BURUNDI
Luhura
tual heartland of Butare (p728) and its the Belgians began to switch allegiance to the
Nigozi
magnificent National Museum. Stop at Hutu majority. The Tutsi favoured fast-track Parc
Kayanza Muyinga Lusahunga
Parc National Nyungwe Forest (p729) to independence, while the Hutus wanted the National
de la Kibira To Bujumbura Parc National
(40km)
see the huge troupes of Angolan colobus introduction of democracy first. Following the de la Rurubu
720 R W A N D A C u l t u re lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com R W A N D A Pe o p l e 721
DRC and Uganda, and an estimated seven swept across the DRC, installing Laurent Ka- The colonial approach employed by the Faith is an important rock in the lives of
million of the countrys nine million people bila in power and breaking the grip of the Belgians was to divide and conquer, issuing many Rwandans, and Christianity remains the
were displaced. extremists on the camps. However, they soon ID cards that divvied up the population along predominant religion. The church in Rwanda
The spark for the carnage was the death of decided Kabila was not such a reliable ally and strict ethnic lines. They tapped up the Tutsis was tainted by its association with the geno-
Habyarimana and his Burundian counterpart, became embroiled in Africas biggest war to as leaders to help control the Hutu major- cide in 1994, but that doesnt seem to have
Cyprien Ntaryamira, on 6 April as their plane date, fighting over the DRCs mineral wealth ity. Later, as independence approached, they dampened the devotion to the word of God.
was shot down attempting to land in Kigali with nine other African states. switched sides, pitting Hutu against Tutsi
on their return from peace talks in Tanzania. The International Criminal Tribunal for Rwanda in a new conflict, which crackled away until ARTS & CRAFTS
It will probably never be known who fired (www.ictr.org) was established in Arusha (Tan- the 1990s when it exploded onto the world Rwandas most famous dancers are the In-
the missile, but most observers believe it was zania) in November 1994 to bring to justice stage. tore troupe. Their warrior-like displays are
Hutu extremists. Whoever was responsible, former government and military officials for In the new Rwanda, the opposite is true. accompanied by a trancelike drumbeat similar
the event unleashed one of the 20th centurys acts of genocide. Several big fish have been Ethnic identities are out, everyone is Rwan- to that of the famous Les Tambourinaires in
worst explosions of blood-letting. The mas- sentenced in the past decade, but in Rwanda dan. The government is at pains to present a Burundi.
sacres that followed were no spontaneous the prisons are still overflowing with smaller Rwandan identity and blames the Belgians for Hotel Rwanda has put Rwanda back on the
outburst of violence but a calculated final fish. Most important was Prime Minister Jean categorising the country along tribal lines that map for moviegoers. Although it was shot in
solution by extremist elements of Habyar- Kambanda, who filed a guilty plea and pro- set the stage for the savagery that followed. South Africa, it tells the story of Hotel des
imanas government to rid the country of vided the trial with much inside information Rwanda was a peaceful place before: Hutu Milles Collines manager Paul Rusesabagina,
all Tutsi and the Hutu reformists. Rwandan on other architects of the genocide. His was and Tutsi lived side by side for generations played by Don Cheadle, turning his luxury
army and Interahamwe death squads ranged the first-ever conviction of a head of state for and intermarriage was common, or so the hotel into a temporary haven for thousands
at will over the countryside killing, looting the crime of genocide. story goes. fleeing the erupting genocide.
and burning, and roadblocks were set up in The truth, as always, is probably somewhere Gorillas in the Mist, starring Sigourney
every town and city. Rwanda Today in between. President Paul Kagame is trying to Weaver, is based on the autobiography of
The UN Assistance Mission for Rwanda Rwanda has done a remarkable job of getting put the past behind and create a new Rwanda. Dian Fossey and her work with the rare
(UNAMIR) was in Rwanda throughout the back on its feet. It has achieved an impressive It will take time, maybe a generation or more, mountain gorillas in Parc National des Vol-
genocide, but was powerless to prevent the degree of stability and security in a remarkably but what has been achieved in just over a cans. Its essential viewing for anyone tracking
killing due to an ineffective mandate. The short time, albeit with considerable help from decade is astonishing. However, to avoid the the gorillas.
international community left Rwanda to face a guilty international community that ignored divisions of the past once again surfacing in
its fate. By the time UNAMIR was finally re- the country in its darkest hour. Rwanda has the new Rwanda, democratic development is ENVIRONMENT
inforced in July, it was too late. The genocide done an excellent job of exporting its problem required that favours all urban and rural, Rwanda is not known as the land of a thou-
was already over and the RPF had taken power to the DRC in the past decade, but as long as rich and poor and is blind to tribe. sand hills for nothing. The hills stretch into
in Kigali. rebels remain at large in the DRC, Rwanda Urban Rwanda is a sophisticated place the infinite horizon in every direction, making
has cause for concern. The only way peace and people follow a Mediterranean pattern bus travel akin to a dose of the bends. To the
The Aftermath and prosperity will finally come to Rwanda is of starting early before breaking for a siesta. west is the stunning shoreline of Lake Kivu,
Hutu extremists and their allies fled into with a solution to the wider regional problems The rhythm of rural life is very different and with its hidden bays, plunging cliffs and secret
eastern DRC to regroup and launched cross- and stability in its giant neighbour. follows the sun. People work long hours from beaches. In the east, the hills finally trail off
border raids into both Rwanda and Burundi The RPF government has made an im- dawn until dusk, but also take a break during towards Tanzania and the land turns to the
from the refugee camps in the Goma and pressive effort to promote reconciliation and the hottest part of the day. grassy plains and acacia of Parc National de
Uvira regions. Rwanda responded with raids restore trust between the two communities. Rwandas economy was decimated dur- lAkagera.
into eastern DRC and support for Tutsi rebels This is no small achievement after the horrors ing the genocide, as production ground to a Like Uganda, Rwanda is primate-tastic.
north of Goma. that were inflicted on the Tutsi during the halt and foreign investment was scared away. Wildlife in Rwanda for most visitors comes
The Hutu fought alongside the Congolese genocide of 1994. It would have been easy for However, the current government has done down to the mountain gorillas, the residents
army, and the entire situation turned ugly, the RPF to embark on a campaign of revenge an impressive job of turning things around of Parc National des Volcans in the northwest,
as one million or so refugees were caught in and reprisal, but instead the government is and the economy is growing fast. but there are also masses of monkeys in Parc
the middle. But the RPF and their allies soon attempting to build a society with a place for National Nyungwe Forest and chimp track-
everyone, regardless of tribe. There are no PEOPLE ing is possible.
more Tutsis, no more Hutus, only Rwandans. Tiny as it is, Rwanda is one of the most Due to its tiny size, Rwanda only has a
THINK BEFORE YOU ASK Idealistic perhaps, but it is also the only hope densely populated countries in Africa, with small network of national parks. The most
Many Rwandans experienced hell on earth for the future. more than 300 people per square kilometre. popular protected area is Parc National des
in the genocide of 1994 and its aftermath. The majority of Rwandans at more than 80% Volcans, a string of brooding volcanoes that
RWANDA
RWANDA
Dont reopen old wounds by bringing up CULTURE of the population are Hutu. Tutsis make up provides a home for the rare mountain goril-
the genocide with virtual strangers, par- Tribal conflict has torn Rwanda apart during more than 15% of the population and fewer las. Nyungwe Forest, a tropical montane forest
ticularly away from the cities. If you meet much of the independence period, culminat- than 1% of the population are Twa Pygmy. that is one of the richest primate destinations
Rwandans who want to discuss it, as many ing in the horrific genocide that unfolded in Most Rwandans speak at least some French, in the region, is the newest national park. Parc
do in Kigali, then that is another story. 1994. There are two schools of thought when but increasing numbers of returning exiles National de lAkagera is home to large mam-
it comes to looking at Rwandan identity. speak English. mals such as elephants and hippos.
722 K I G A L I O r i e n t a t i o n lonelyplanet.com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com K I G A L I S l e e p i n g 723
Population density has had a detrimental Bookshops SLEEPING Great, if you can live with the early-morning
effect on the countrys national park system, Kigalis bookshops stock mostly French- The choice of budget accommodation is pretty call to prayer.
reducing Parc National des Volcans by half language publications. poor, making this a good city to upgrade to Auberge La Caverne (%574549; Blvd de Nyabugogo;
in 1969 and Parc National de lAkagera by Librairie Ikirezi (%571314; Ave de la Paix; h9am- something smarter. r RFr5000-15,000) A cut above the competition at
two-thirds in 1998. 12.30pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-12.30pm Sat & Sun) A Kigali Hotel (%/fax 571384; s/d RFr5000/7000) Hid- the cheaper end, this little auberge is tucked
wide range of English and French books on Rwanda and den behind the mosque on the road to Nyami- away beneath the main road. The cheapest
FOOD & DRINK the world beyond. rambo, this is good value. It has large, clean rooms are pretty small, but the more francs
African fare in Rwanda is the same as in rooms equipped with TV and bathroom. you spend the more they begin to expand.
the rest of the region, but a wide variety of Emergency
excellent Continental cuisine is available in Police (%083 11170) A 24-hour emergency number. KIGALI
0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
urban areas. Local beers include the near-
legendary Primus, in almighty 720ml bottles, Internet Access A B C D
and Mulzig, both of which are available all Internet access is widespread and very cheap INFORMATION Ugandan Embassy......................10 B5 ENTERTAINMENT
over the country. in Kigali. Banque de Kigali..........................1 A3
Belgian Embassy...........................2 B4
US Embassy................................11 B4 Abraxas......................................24 B2
Iposita Cybercaf (per hr RFr400) Part of the post office 1 Canadian Embassy....................... 3 D4 SLEEPING SHOPPING
complex. French Embassy...........................4 C5 Auberge La Caverne...................12 B2 Caplaki...................................... 25 D5
Bus Station (1.5km); du
La 15
Le Poseidon Bar & Restaurant.....19 B3 Kenya Airways...........................30 B4
over ridges, hills and valleys, it is a small, at- hospital.
Blv
Onatracom Express (1.5km); cN New Cactus...............................20 C5 Okapi Car..................................31 A3
d de
Katuna (82km);
tractive city offering superb views over the Netcare King Faycal Hospital (%582421) So- Ruhengeri (93km);
as
ho Nile Grill.....................................21 A3 Rwandair Express.......................32 B3
Av
2 Butare (135km); Silverback Restaurant...............(see 14) SN Brussels Airline....................(see 13)
intensively cultivated and terraced country-
Nyabu
phisticated medical treatment in suburban Kacyiru, 5km
de
Kibuye (138km); South African Airways................33 B3
la
Gisenyi (155km)
side beyond. It was quite badly trashed during northeast of the city centre. DRINKING Trans Express 2000....................34 A2
Jus
gogo
tice
Bel Air Bar..................................22 A3 Virunga Ponctuel.......................35 A3
the civil war in 1994, but following a long Place
Republika Lounge......................23 D4 Yahoo Car..................................36 B2
rehabilitation, one gets the sense that Kigali Money To Kigali
Hotel (500m) 34
de l'Unit
Nationale
is a city looking ahead to the future, not back There are several banks around the city 36 24 To Kacyiru (3km);
erce
Blvd de Kenyan Embassy (3km);
ema
28 I'OUA
to the past. centre, but the best places to change money 31 Burundian Embassy (3km);
omm
Rue de
la Conc
ac Ih
35 orde South African Embassy (3km);
il
There arent many sights in the city, but are the handful of bureaux de change near
u Trava
British Embassy (3km); Netcare King
Rue de Nt
du C
Ave
Faycal Hospital (3km); Planet (3km);
the Kigali Memorial Centre, documenting the the main post office. There are ATMs, but 22 32 Rue Ministre de l'Intrieur (7km); Gregoire
Ave
Ave
de
Rue
de l'
Rue d
21 Aka Kayibanda International Airport (10.5km)
Rwandan genocide, is a must for all visitors they are not yet wired to an international
la
gera
Paul VI
aruka
Rue Dpu
lisimbi
18
R
17
3 13
to Rwanda. The city has a reasonable range network. 7
pu
16
blique
Rue Dput Ka
Market
Rue de Ka
8
of hotels and restaurants, and while nightlife Banque de Kigali (Ave du Commerce) When it comes to 27
Ru
t Kayuku
Place de Ave e
Av 26 I'Indpendance de Rusu de
is not quite as pumping as it is in Kampala travellers cheques or credit-card cash advances, this is the e
du Craft mo sP
ar
Commerce 1 Market cs
(Uganda) or Nairobi (Kenya), it is worth a only option. Hefty commissions of US$15 and up! 19 To New Cadillac (500m);
muzinzi
Carwash (600m);
whiff at the weekend. 33
Lalibela Restaurant (600m);
14
Post 30 9 Ave de
Kigali Memorial Centre (2km)
The commercial centre of Kigali is located on 8am-noon Sat) Poste restante services available. 6 11
3
a hill to the southwest of Pl de lUnit Nation-
Blvd
we
Ave d
Ave d
ale and is focused on Ave du Commerce and Telephone 4
Ave P
igog
Av Kiyovu
de
ovu
e la P
e de
ra
e I'Arm
the network of streets that bisect it. To the For international calls, there are plenty of ki-
de B
la Jeun esse
la Re
aul VI
kage
a
e Kiy
ng
a
2
aix
south there are several grandes artres (major osks opposite the post office. There are also Ave
asak
Rue
gu
voluti
de l'A
e
aru
Ave d
de M
de la
roads) leading into the diplomatic quarter public phone booths throughout the city.
Ny
on
aru
Rue de
Rue
Rue de
ny
Nyarugenge
where embassies and expensive restaurants
Justi
23
Rue
ka
t Kayuku
I'A
ce
Rue
can be found east of the centre in the suburb Office Rwandais du Tourisme et des Parcs Na-
Rue Dpu
of Kacyiru. tionaux (ORTPN; %576514; www.rwandatourism.com; 5 4
RWANDA
RWANDA
BP 905, 1 Blvd de la Revolution; h7am-5pm Mon-Fri,
Ave P
INFORMATION 8am-2pm Sat & Sun) Staff here speak French and English 5 20
aul VI
vu
re
For the latest information on Kigali, pick up and are pretty helpful in assisting with enquiries. This is l'Hpita
l yo
Riv
ultu
Rue de Ki
ir
la C
the place for independent travellers to make reservations
de
e
Military
Ave
e
25
guide to the capital available in restaurants,
Mp
Rue d
azi
RWANDA
EATING of spicy chicken. rock. details.
Nile Grill (Rue de Kalisimbi; vegetarian/meat buffet Silverback Restaurant (%501717; Rue des Parcs; Planet (Kigali Business Centre, Ave du Lac Muhazi; admis- Nyabugogo bus station is in the valley about
RFr1500/2000; h7.30am-8pm) There are several mains RFr4000-10,000) One of the best restaurants sion RFr3000) This trendy nightclub is often called 2km north of the city centre and minibuses
local joints in the city centre doing a roaring in Kigali, the accent here is most definitely KBC by locals because of its location. The (RFr200) cruise the central streets looking
trade in lunchtime buffets and cheap eats French. Foie gras, duck lorange and even most popular place in town with the beautiful for passengers. There is no longer a local bus
Nile is one of the best known. rabbit are available for the discerning diner. people, it really goes off at weekends. station in the centre.
726 A R O U N D K I G A L I N y a m a t a & N t a r a m a G e n o c i d e M e m o r i a l s lonelyplanet.com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com A R O U N D K I G A L I Pa r c N a t i o n a l d e s V o l c a n s 727
GETTING AROUND the park office where it is also possible to ar- five habituated gorilla families and 40 permits eral hours to two days. A guide is compulsory
A taxi from the airport to the town centre range a permit to track the gorillas. available daily. (Uganda has fewer permits and but porters are optional.
costs about RFr5000 (US$10). A taxi within Part of the popular Skyblue hotels group the DRC has potential security questions.) The ascents pass through some remark-
the city centre starts at RFr1000 or so, more to in Uganda, Tourist Rest House (%546635; Rue able changes of vegetation, ranging from thick
Kacyiru or at night. A taxi-motor (motorbike Muhabura; s/tw RFr3000/5000) is a well-run little es- Activities forests of bamboo, giant lobelia or hagenia, to
taxi) is cheaper, but can involve scary speeds tablishment. Rooms are small but there is hot GORILLA TRACKING alpine meadows. If the weather is favourable,
at night. water in the shared showers. Advance reservations should be made the reward is some spectacular views over the
For those wanting a bathroom on tap, so through the ORTPN office in Kigali (p722), mountain chain. It is possible to trek to the
to speak, Htel Urumuri (%546820; r RFr3500) is but it is possible to turn up in Ruhengeri top of Bisoke (3711m; US$50) in one day or
AROUND KIGALI the best deal in town. Tucked away on a side
street off Rue du March, it is a friendly spot
without a booking. If there are no permits
available in Kigali, contact a travel agent
Karisimbi (4507m; US$150) in two days. It is
also possible to visit the grave of Dian Fossey
NYAMATA & NTARAMA GENOCIDE and the restaurant (meals RFr1000) serves through ORTPN or continue to Ruhengeri (US$50), part of the gorilla graveyard where
MEMORIALS tasty brochettes. where a standby permit might be available many of her subjects were buried, including
During the genocide, many horrific massacres Ruhengeris leading hotel is Htel Muhabura at short notice. the famous Digit.
around the country took place in churches (%546296; Ave du 5 Juillet; r/apt RFr15000/20,000), close Park visits must be arranged the day before
to which victims had fled in the hope of to the ORTPN office. It has large, airy rooms at the ORTPN office in Ruhengeri (opposite). Sleeping
refuge. Nyatama, about 30km south of Ki- with bathrooms, and several apartments that Visitors are restricted to one hour with the Kinigi Guesthouse (%546984; www.rwanda-gorillas
gali, is a deeply disturbing memorial where are verging on minisuites, but the lack of gorillas, and only one group of up to eight .com; s/d incl breakfast US$20/25) The best-value op-
skulls and bones of the many victims are on competition in town has seen prices dou- people is allowed to visit each group of goril- tion near the national park, this local lodge is
display. The church at Ntarama is more un- ble in the last few years. The restaurant-bar las per day. Permits cost US$375 per person, run to assist vulnerable Rwandan women. Set
derstated but no less powerful. The church here is the best in town, with mains from including compulsory guides and guards, plus in lush gardens, the wooden bungalows are
has not been touched since the bodies were RFr2000. US$2 for porters and extra for tips. Rangers atmospheric and the staff friendly.
removed more than a decade ago. This church Okapi Car (Ave du 5 Juillet), Virunga Express (Ave du can generally find the gorillas within one to Gorillas Nest Camp (%546331; gorillanest@yahoo
is about 25km from Kigali and both memo- 5 Juillet) and Atraco Express (Ave du 5 Juillet) all offer four hours of starting, but conditions can be .fr; s/d incl breakfast US$80/100) Also in the Kinigi
rials can be visited in one day trip. To rent regular minibuses to Kigali for RFr1300 (two tough. Stinging nettles, biting ants and the area, this lodge has wonderful views up to
a vehicle in Kigali talk to hotels or travel hours). Onatracom Express (Ave du 5 Juillet) has three cool, wet weather make long trousers, sturdy the volcanoes. Rooms are smart and include
agents. The more adventurous could take a large buses per day passing through, connect- footwear and wet-weather gear essential. For hot-water showers.
taxi-motor. ing Kigali and Gisenyi; tickets are available at more on tracking rules, see p805. Virunga Lodge (%502452; www.volcanoessafaris.com;
the petrol station. s/d US$265/400) One of the most stunningly situ-
There are normal minibuses from GOLDEN MONKEY TRACKING ated camps in the region, the new Volcanoes
NORTHWESTERN Ruhengeri to Kigali (RFr1100, two hours) on
a breathtaking mountain road, as well as to
This is a great way to pass some time while
waiting for a gorilla permit, as these beautiful
Safarisrun Virunga Lodge is nestled on a
ridge above Lake Bulera and offers incred-
RWANDA Cyanika (RFr400, 45 minutes) and Gisenyi
(RFr800, 1 hours).
monkeys bound about the branches of bigger
trees. It costs US$75 to track the golden mon-
ible views across to the Virunga volcanoes.
Accommodation is housed in luxury stone
The northwest of Rwanda is where the coun- keys, but only US$20 across the other side of chalets.
try really earns its nickname as the Land of a PARC NATIONAL DES VOLCANS the Virungas at Mgahinga in Uganda. Factor-
Thousand Hills. Its a beautiful region and the A dramatic chain of seven volcanoes, this ing in the park fees, that adds up to US$100 Getting There & Away
peaks culminate in the stunning Virunga vol- park is the definitive place to track the rare in Rwanda, only US$40 in Uganda. To get to the park from Ruhengeri, arrange
canoes, forming a formidable natural border and captivating mountain gorillas. Forming a a vehicle through the ORTPN office in
between Rwanda, Uganda and the DRC. natural border with the DRC and Uganda, TREKKING THE VOLCANOES Ruhengeri (about US$50), or try hitching a
the area is one of the most beautiful in Af- The stunning volcanoes are once again open ride with fellow trackers. Otherwise, charter
RUHENGERI rica. Dian Fosseys account of her years with to visitors for guided treks, ranging from sev- a taxi-motor for about RFr2500 or so.
Many travellers stay in Ruhengeri when visit- the gorillas and her battle with poachers and
ing the gorillas in Parc National des Volcans, government officials, is detailed in Gorillas
although smarter accommodation is available in the Mist, a must-read before coming here. GORILLAS & GUERRILLAS
near the park itself (see opposite). Ruhengeri There is no habitat more evocative of the Hunting, poaching, disease and human encroachment into the forests have always been a threat
is a small, dusty town with magnificent views gorillas than the densely forested slopes of to the mountain gorillas of East Africa. For a while during the 1970s and 1980s the gorillas were,
of the volcanoes to the north and west. the Virunga volcanoes. Coming upon the to some degree, protected from poaching because of the large influx of tourist dollars that
BCDR (Rue Muhabura) represents Western Union Susa family of 35 on the slopes of Karisimbi encouraged local people living adjacent to their habitats to protect them.
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if you need money for a gorilla visit fast; there is one of lifes unforgettable moments no However, during the civil war in Rwanda in the mid-1990s, and the later war in the DRC, a number
is nowhere to change travellers cheques or bars, no windows, three silverbacks eye the of gorillas disappeared as poachers captured them for sale or soldiers lived off the land.
arrange credit-card cash advances in town. proceedings as infants and juveniles frolic For more information about current threats to the gorillas, check out the websites of the
Several small shops along Ave du 5 Juillet offer on every side. International Gorilla Conservation Programme (www.mountaingorillas.org) and the Dian Fossey
internet access. Office Rwandais du Tourisme et des The park is the most reliable option for Gorilla Fund International (www.gorillafund.org).
Parcs Nationaux (ORTPN; %546645; Ave du 5 Juillet) is tracking gorillas in the region, as there are
728 S O U T H W E S T E R N R W A N D A B u t a re lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com S O U T H W E S T E R N R W A N D A Pa r c N a t i o n a l N y u n g w e F o re s t 729
GISENYI regular minibuses to Ruhengeri (RFr700, two here that serves great meals and doubles as ther direction, but you may be able to bargain
Welcome to the Costa del Kivu! Gisenyi is hours). Onatracom Express (Ave de lUmuganda) runs a bar by night. down to RFr1000. It takes two hours from
a ritzy resort town for rich Rwandans and big buses to Kigali (RFr1600, four hours) pass- Chez Venant (%085 04115; Rue Rwamamba; mains Butare and one hour from Cyangugu. There
resident foreigners. The views over Lake Kivu ing through Ruhengeri (RFr800, two hours). RFr1000-5000) brings the taste of China to Butare are regular buses. From Butare, the Uwinka
and Nyiragongo (3470m) to the northwest are All buses terminate on Ave de lUmuganda. surprising given the name. There are also a headquarters is just past the 90km post.
magnificent, but the volcano blew its top in few local dishes for good measure.
early 2002, consuming much of neighbouring Atraco Express, Okapi Car, Trans Express CYANGUGU
Goma in the DRC.
Banks in Gisenyi can only exchange cash,
SOUTHWESTERN 2000 and Volcano Express have hourly serv-
ices to and from Kigali, departing from of-
In a lovely location at the southern end of
Lake Kivu, Cyangugu looks across to Bu-
not travellers cheques, and do not offer credit-
card cash advances. Modern Internet (Rue de
RWANDA fices on Rue de Kigali and costing RFr1300
(two hours). Atraco Express and Onatracom
kavu in the DRC. A few kilometres north of
Cyangugu is Kamembe, the regions trade and
Ruhengeri) offers the best internet connection The endless mountains dont stop as you head Express have daily departures to Cyangugu transport centre.
in town, sometimes the only connection. south towards Burundi. Highlights here in- (RFr1700). Right by the border, Hme St Franois
Gisenyi is home to the Primus Brewery, about clude the intellectual capital of Butare and the The minibus station is 1km north of the (%537915; s/d/tr RFr1500/2500/3500) is a friendly
7km out of town along a lovely lakeshore road. magnificent forest of Parc National Nyungwe town centre. Regular minibuses go to Ki- place thats spotlessly clean and excellent
Free tours can be arranged. Swimming and Forest, not forgetting of course the beautiful gali (RFr1100, two hours), and to Kamembe value for money. Couples might be separated
sunbathing on the beaches are free, but ask blue waters of Lake Kivu. (RFr1600, three hours), near Cyangugu, pass- unless obviously married; bring a ring.
locals before plunging in its very dangerous ing through the stunning Nyungwe Forest. Set back on the hill just above the lake, Hotel
to swim in certain parts of Lake Kivu because BUTARE des Chutes (%537405; r RFr8000-10,000) offers fine
of volcanic gases and bilharzia, and you need The centre of intellectual inspiration in PARC NATIONAL NYUNGWE FOREST views. It is worth spending a little extra for
to be very careful around Gisenyi. Rwanda, Butare is home to the National The spectacular 970-sq-km Nyungwe For- satellite TV and a balcony. There is also a great
The leader of the pack among the cheaper University. Its tiny after Kigali, but the large est is one of the largest protected montane little restaurant here with a range of European
guesthouses, Auberge de Gisenyi (%540385; Ave de student population brings a certain buzz to rainforests in Africa, easily the equal of cuisine (mains from RFr2000).
lUmuganda; s/d RFr5000/6000) has rooms that face the place. Kibale Forest in Uganda. It offers superb Minibuses for the short hop between Cyan-
onto an attractive courtyard garden. The dou- There are branches of BCR, BCDI and scenery and views of the volcanoes of the gugu and Kamembe cost RFr100. Atraco Ex-
bles are almost suites, making them a good Banque de Kigali on the main Rue de Kigali, Parc National des Virunga in the DRC to press and Onatracom Express have four daily
deal, and the restaurant is popular at night but they can only deal with cash. Computer Link the north. departures between them to Butare (RFr1700,
for both food and beer. @ Butare (Rue de Kigali; per hr RFr500) is the best place The forest is home to huge groups of black- three hours). From Kamembe to Butare local
Housed in a rambling old colonial-era for internet access. Expo Vente (Rue de Kigali) is a and-white Angola colobus monkeys, several minibuses cost RFr1600. There is also a daily
house, the Htel Palm Beach (%085 59551; uwinya@ handicrafts shop exhibiting local products groups of chimpanzees, 50 species of other bus at 8am from Cyangugu to Kibuye, which
yahoo.fr; Ave de la Coopration; r RFr15,000-30,000) has and a great-value place to buy some Rwan- mammals, 270 species of tree, 275 species of traverses an incredible road of plunging cliffs
rooms that are spacious and comfortable. dan work. bird, and an astonishing variety of orchids and tight hairpins.
It has its own stretch of private beachfront, Butares trump card is the Muse National du and butterflies.
a beach bar and a popular restaurant-bar Rwanda (admission RFr1000; h9-11.30am & 2.30-4.30pm It costs US$20 per day to visit Nyungwe KIBUYE
downstairs. Tue-Sun, 2.30-4.30pm Mon), which is definitely worth Forest, but this includes guided or unguided Kibuye has got the location, spread across
The owners of the Stipp Hotel (%540540; www visiting for its ethnological and archaeological walks on any of the colour-coded forest trails several irregular bays on Lake Kivu. Its the
.stippag.co.rw; Ave de la Rvolution; s/d US$60/70; s) have displays, all housed in a memorable structure. and camping at Uwinka. Chimpanzee track- only real beach and water sports alternative
done a number on an old property, creat- It is on the road to Kigali, a 15-minute walk ing (US$50) starts at 6am, and colobus walks to Gisenyi, but note that its very dangerous to
ing Gisenyis, surely Rwandas, first boutique north of the town centre. (US$30) leave at 9am and 3pm from park swim in certain parts of Lake Kivu because of
hotel. The lush grounds include a swimming Set just off Ave du Commerce, Htel des headquarters; talk to rangers. There is no law volcanic gases and bilharzia. Kibuye is usually
pool and sauna. The restaurant here is con- Beaux-Arts (%530032; Ave du Commerce; r RFr4000-6000) against spotting primates on an ordinary walk, fine, but be very careful around Gisenyi.
sidered one of the best in town. has real character for a cheapie. The hotel is but there is a better chance of sightings on a Occupying a peaceful location on a wooded
For something completely different, head to decorated with local products and all rooms primate walk. peninsula in the lake, Bethanie Guesthouse
Texas (Rue de Ruhengeri; snacks RFr1000-3000), a sophis- include hot-water bathrooms, making for a There is an overpriced camp site (US$20) (% 568509; bethanie@epr.org.rw; dm US$4, s/d from
ticated coffee shop in the upper part of town. good deal. at the Uwinka park headquarters; bring eve- US$14/18; i) has rooms of all shapes and sizes.
The menu includes fresh breads, pastries and Htel Faucon (%086 17657; Rue de Kigali; s/apt rything you need (including warm clothes), It has a small restaurant, but is often booked
even pizzas, plus creative coffees and juices. RFr5000/10,000) is a tempting offer, as it has huge except drinks. up with conferences.
Boasting a beautiful beachfront location, rooms at rock-bottom prices. Apartments Anyone without a tent can make for the In the centre of town, Restaurant Nouveaut
Bikini Tam-Tam Bar & Restaurant (Ave de la Production; come with a bathroom, satellite TV and a homely ORTPN Resthouse (r per person US$20), but (mains US$1-2) has a basic menu of brochettes
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mains US$4) sets up tables on the sand. Boulangerie seating area, and breakfast is included. it is 18km west of Uwinka and pretty isolated and beans.
de Gisenyi (Rue des Poissons) is the place for cheese, Probably the best hotel in town is Htel for those without transport. The road linking Kibuye to Kigali is excel-
meats and fresh bread for self-caterers. Ibis (%530335; campionibis@hotmail.com; Rue de Kigali; Nyungwe Forest is bisected by the road be- lent and passes the 100m-high Chutes de Ndaba
Okapi Car (Ave du March) and Atraco Express (Ave du s/d RFr15,000/18,000, apt RFr20,000-23,000), thanks to tween Butare and Kamembe (near Cyangugu), (Ndaba Waterfall) after about 20km. Okapi
March) operate minibuses between Gisenyi and its central location and comfortable rooms. and is accessible by minibus from either town. Car run several buses to Kigali (RFr1400, two
Kigali (RFr1800, three hours). There are also There is an excellent terrace bar-restaurant You may get charged full fare ( RFr1600) in ei- hours). Local minibuses (RFr1200) are more
730 R W A N D A D I R E C T O R Y A c c o m m o d a t i o n lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com R W A N D A D I R E C T O R Y H o l i d a y s 731
crowded. There is usually also one bus a day HOLIDAYS tograph of anybody or anything other than
to both Cyangugu and Gisenyi. PRACTICALITIES As well as religious holidays listed in the Af- landscapes.
Rwanda uses the metric system and rica Directory (p1106) the principal public
holidays in Rwanda are as follows: POST
RWANDA DIRECTORY distances are in kilometres.
Electricity in Rwanda is 240V, 50 cycles,
New Years Day 1 January
Democracy Day 8 January
Postal services from Rwanda are reasonably
reliable. The main post office in Kigali has
and plugs are mainly two-pin.
ACCOMMODATION Genocide Memorial Day 7 April a poste restante and an attached internet
Camping options are pretty limited in The English-language New Times is Labour Day 1 May caf.
Rwanda, but dorm accommodation at mis- published several times a week, plus National Day 1 July
the New Vision and Monitor are avail-
sion hostels is cheap at US$1 to US$3 per
able from Uganda. French magazines
Peace & National Unity Day 5 July TELEPHONE
night. The catch is that doors close at 10pm Harvest Festival Day 1 August Telephone calls can be made at the post offices
and international titles are available in
or earlier. Kigali.
Culture Day 8 September (abbreviated to PTT) or any of the private
Cheaper hotels are generally on the grungy Kamarampaka Day 25 September (anniversary of the MTN or Rwandatel card phones or booths
side in Rwanda, but there is usually a good Radio Rwanda, a government-controlled referendum in 1961) found in major towns.
selection of midrange hotels available in most station, broadcasts in Kinyarwanda, Liberation Day 1 October There are no area codes in Rwanda. Mo-
towns. International standard hotels are avail- French, Swahili and English. Armed Forces Day 26 October bile telephone numbers start with the pre-
able in Kigali and Gisenyi, while Parc Na- Television Rwandaise (TVR) is the state- fixes %085, %086 and %083. Visit www
tional des Volcans offers several atmospheric owned broadcaster. INTERNET ACCESS .rwandaphonebook.com when looking for
lodges. Email and internet access in Rwanda has im- telephone numbers in Rwanda.
proved fast and is now widely available in
ACTIVITIES There are a number of roadblocks along all Kigali, as well as on a more limited basis in VISAS
Its all about the gorillas here in Rwanda, and main roads to ensure security, but foreigners Butare, Cyangugu, Kibuye and Ruhengeri, all Visas are required by everyone except nation-
the tracking at Parc National des Volcans are never hassled. at around RFr500 per hour. als of Canada, Germany, Hong Kong, Kenya,
ranks up there with any activity on earth South Africa, Sweden, the UK and the USA.
dont forget US$375 cash, however. Other EMBASSIES & CONSULATES MAPS From a Rwandan embassy or consulate,
monkey business includes primate tracking at Rwandan Embassies & Consulates At the time of research the best map of tourist visas are valid for three months, cost
Parc National Nyungwe Forest. For a change Rwanda has diplomatic representation in the Rwanda was Rwanda Burundi: International US$60 and can be extended in Kigali. Two
of scenery, there are water sports at Gisenyi following countries, among others: Travel Map published by ITMB Publishing at photos are required, and visas can usually be
or Kibuye. Belgium (%02-771 2127; 1 Ave de Fleurs, Brussels) a scale of 1:400,000. collected within 24 hours.
Burundi (%226865; Ave du RD Congo, Bujumbura) Two-week extendible tourist visas are avail-
BUSINESS HOURS Canada (%613-722 5835; 121 Sherwood Dr, Ottowa, MONEY able at the Kigali airport and at the major land
Government offices and businesses are gen- ON K1Y 3V1) Rwandas unit of currency is the Rwandan borders with Burundi, the DRC, Tanzania and
erally open between 8.30am and 4.30pm or France (%01 42 27 36 31; 12 Rue Jadin, 75017 Paris) franc (RFr), which is sometimes also abbre- Uganda, for US$60.
5.30pm, with a short break for lunch some- Germany (%030-2091 6590; Jagerstrase 67 10117 viated to Frw. Its best to come to Rwanda
time between noon and 2pm. Most shops and Berlin) with US dollars or euros in cash. The only Visa Extensions
banks do not break for lunch, but some banks South Africa (%012-460 0709; 35 Marais St, Pretoria) useful bank branch in the country is Banque Visas can be extended at the Ministre de
close early at 3.30pm. Tanzania (%211 5889; 32 Ali Hassan Mwinyi Rd, de Kigali in the capital, which offers cash ad- lIntrieur (%585856) in Kigali, in the Kacyiru
Local restaurant hours are 7am to 9pm, Upanga; h8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) vances on credit card and can change travel- district, about 7km northeast of the city cen-
and international-type restaurants are open Uganda (%041-344045; 2 Nakayima Rd, Kampala) lers cheques, neither of which is possible in the tre. It takes about one week and costs US$30
11.30am to 2.30pm and 5.30pm to 10.30pm. UK (%020-7224 9832; 120-122 Seymour Pl, London) provinces. There are ATMs in Kigali, but they per month.
USA (%202-232 2882; 1724 New Hampshire Ave, are not yet wired to an international network.
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES Washington DC) Credit cards can be used in some upmarket Visas for Onward Travel
It is always worth checking on current security hotels and restaurants in Kigali. Visas for Burundi, the DRC, Tanzania and
conditions before entering Rwanda. At the Embassies & Consulates in Rwanda Bureaux de change which are mostly in Uganda are available from embassies in Kigali
time of research, the country was very safe, but Countries with diplomatic representation in Kigali offer slightly better exchange rates (see opposite for contact details).
there is always the outside chance of problems Kigali (Map p723) include the following: than banks. Moneychangers hang around Burundi Visas cost US$40 for one month single entry,
spilling over from the DRC or Burundi. Urban Belgium (%575551; Rue de Nyarugenge) central Kigali and usually give a slightly bet- although check on the security situation very carefully
Rwanda is now one of the safer places to be Burundi (%517529; Kacyiru) ter rate, but count your money carefully. All before visiting. Also available on the border.
in Africa, but in Kigali, like any capital, take Canada (%571762; Rue de lAkagera) banks, and most bureaux de change, are closed Democratic Republic of Congo For land crossings to
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care at night. France (%575206; Ave Paul VI) on Saturday afternoon and Sunday. eastern DR Congo eight-day visas are available at Bukavu
Out in the countryside, do not walk along Kenya (%583332; Blvd de lUmuganda) or Goma for US$35.
anything other than a well-used track; there Tanzania (%505400; Ave de la Paix) PHOTOGRAPHY Kenya Visas cost US$50 or the equivalent in local cur-
might still be landmines around. The potential Uganda (%572117; Ave de la Paix) Be extremely careful wherever taking pho- rency, require two photographs and are issued the same
risk is highest anywhere near the borders with UK (%585280; Blvd de lUmuganda, Kacyiru) tos in Rwanda, as the authorities are very day if you apply before 11.30am. However, visas are also
the DRC and Burundi. USA (%505601; Blvd de la Revolution) sensitive. Always ask before you take a pho- available on arrival.
Lonely Planet Publications
732 T R A N S P O R T I N R W A N D A G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T R A N S P O R T I N R W A N D A G e t t i n g A r o u n d 733
Tanzania Visas require two photos and generally take 24 GETTING AROUND Express 2000, Atraco Express and Virunga
hours to issue. The cost depends on nationality. DEPARTURE TAX Air Ponctuel. Destinations covered include Bu-
Uganda Visas cost US$30, require two photos and are International departure tax is US$20, but Rwandair Express (Map p723; %503687; www.rwandair tare, Gisenyi, Kibuye and Ruhengeri, and de-
issued in 24 hours. However, it is far easier to get them at is included in the ticket price at the time .com) offers four flights a week from Kigali to partures are guaranteed to leave hourly in
the border on arrival. of purchase. Cyangugu. many cases. They are less crowded and drive
more carefully than the usual minibuses, but
Boat cost a little more.
TRANSPORT IN ing between Gisenyi (Rwanda) and Goma
(DRC) was considered safe at the time of re-
There used to be ferries on Lake Kivu that
connected the Rwandan ports of Cyangugu, Car & Motorcycle
RWANDA search, although only for day trips to Goma,
climbing Nyiragongo volcano or visiting the
Kibuye and Gisenyi, but these services were
suspended at the time of research. Speedboat
Cars are suitable for most of the countrys
main roads, but those planning to explore
GETTING THERE & AWAY mountain gorillas. Longer trips into the DRC charters are currently the only option between Akagera or follow the shores of Lake Kivu
Air or overland trips through the country were these ports, but they are very expensive. might be better off with a 4WD.
Gregoire Kayibanda International Airport is inadvisable at the time of research. The south- Car hire isnt well established in Rwanda,
located at Kanombe, 10km east of Kigali cen- ern border between Cyangugu (Rwanda) and Bus but most travel agents and tour operators in
tre. Airlines connect Kigali with Addis Ababa Bukavu (DRC) is also open, but the security Rwanda has a good road system, and plenty Kigali can organise something from RFr25,000
(Ethiopia), Bujumbura (Burundi), Entebbe situation around Bukavu is a little more vola- of modern, well-maintained minibuses serve per day for a small car and up.
(Uganda), Nairobi (Kenya), Johannesburg tile than it is around Goma. all the main routes from dawn til dusk.
(South Africa) and Brussels (Belgium). Minibuses leave when officially full which Local Transport
The following airlines have offices in Kigali TANZANIA means when all the seats are occupied, unlike Taxis are necessary only in Kigali, but it is pos-
(Map p723): From Kigali, take a minibus to the border neighbouring countries where many more sible to find the occasional taxi in most other
Air Burundi (%572113; Ave des Milles Collines) town of Rusumo (RFr1500, three hours). are squeezed in. major towns. In Kigali and other larger towns,
Ethiopian Airlines (%575045; www.flyethiopian.com) Once across the border, jump on any form of The best minibuses are privately run, sched- you can use a taxi-motor a motorcycle that
Kenya Airways (%577972; www.kenya-airways.com; public transport often a pick-up to Ngara. uled services operated by Okapi Car, Trans doubles as a two-wheeled taxi.
Ave des Milles Collines) From Ngara, catch a bus (US$10, 12 hours)
Rwandair Express (%503687; www.rwandair.com) to Mwanza. The road to Mwanza is mostly
SN Brussels Airline (%575290; www.brusselsairlines good but has some rough sections. Hitching
.com; Ave de la Rpublique) is sometimes possible along this way, as plenty
South African Airways (%577777; www.flysaa.com; of aid vehicles use the road.
Blvd de la Revolution)
UGANDA
Land The main border crossing is located between
BURUNDI Kigali and Kabale, via Gatuna (Rwanda) and
Make sure you check the latest security situ- Katuna (Uganda). Those travelling direct be-
ation carefully before crossing by land into tween Kigali and Kampala can travel with
Burundi. The main crossing point between Jaguar Executive Coaches (%086 14838), which has
Rwanda and Burundi is via Butare (Rwanda) a VIP bus (RFr7000) and a standard service
and Kayanza (Burundi), on the very well- (RFr5000), both departing at 5.45am, 6.15am
maintained KigaliBujumbura road. The and 9am from Kigalis Nyabugogo Bus Station
border post is called Kayanza Haut. Yahoo and taking nine hours.
Car, New Yahoo Coach and Gaso Bus run Between Kigali and Kabale there are lots of
daily buses between Kigali and Bujumbura minibuses, but a change of vehicle at the bor-
(RFr4000/5000 for a small/big bus, about six der is involved. There are regular minibuses
hours), departing about 7am. from Kigali to Gatuna (RFr1500, 1 hours).
There is also a direct road from Cyangugu Across the border in Katuna there are mini-
to Bujumbura, but this is not in such good buses (US$0.50) and special hire taxis (US$8
shape. for the car) to Kabale.
There is also a second crossing between
DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC OF CONGO Ruhengeri (Rwanda) and Kisoro (Uganda),
Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
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Do as much homework as possible before via Cyanika. The road is in excellent shape
crossing by land into the DRC, as the se- on the Rwandan side however, its in poor restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
curity situation remains potentially volatile condition on the Ugandan side. Frequent only. In other words, please dont upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
after almost a decade of civil war. There are minibuses link either side of the border
two main crossings between Rwanda and the with Ruhengeri (RFr500, 25km) and Kisoro everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
DRC, both on the shores of Lake Kivu. Cross- (US$0.60, 12km). the above - Do the right thing with our content.