10/6/2015 JohnForster,"TheLifeofCharlesDickens"(5)

JohnForster

TheLifeofCharlesDickens
BOOKFIFTH:LONDON,LAUSANNEANDPARIS(18457)

I. AGAININENGLAND(18456)
2. RETREATTOSWITZERLAND(1846)
3. SWISSPEOPLEANDSCENERY(1846)
4. SKETCHESCHIEFLYPERSONAL(1846)
5. LITERARYLABOURATLAUSANNE(1846)
6. GENEVESEREVOLUTIONANDBATTLEOFLIFE(1846)
7. THREEMONTHSINPARIS(18467)

I
AGAININENGLAND
18451846

HisfirstletterafteragaintakingpossessionofDevonshireterracerevivedasubjectonwhichopinions
hadbeenfromtimetotimeinterchangedduringhisabsence,andtowhichtherewasallusioninthe
agreementexecutedbeforehisdeparture.Thedesirewasstillasstrongwithhimaswhenhestarted
MasterHumphrey'sClocktoestablishaperiodical,that,whilerelievinghisownpenbyenablinghimto
receivefrequenthelpfromotherwriters,mightyetretainalwaysthepopularityofhisname."Ireally
thinkIhaveanidea,andnotabadone,fortheperiodical.Ihaveturneditover,thelasttwodays,very
muchinmymindandthinkitpositivelygood.Iinclinestilltoweeklypricethreehalfpence,ifpossible
partlyoriginal,partlyselectnoticesofbooks,noticesoftheatres,noticesofallgoodthings,noticesofall
badonesCarolphilosophy,cheerfulviews,sharpanatomizationofhumbug,jollygoodtemperpapers
alwaysinseason,pattothetimeofyearandaveinofglowing,hearty,generous,mirthful,beaming
referenceineverythingtoHome,andFireside.AndIwouldcallit,sir:

TheCricket.
AcheerfulcreaturethatchirrupsontheHearth.
NaturalHistory.

"Now,don'tdecidehastilytillyou'veheardwhatIwoulddo.Iwouldcomeout,sir,witha
prospectusonthesubjectoftheCricketthatshouldputeverybodyinagoodtemper,andmake
suchadashatpeople'sfendersandarmchairsashasn'tbeenmadeformanyalongday.Icould
approachtheminadifferentmodeunderthisname,andinamorewinningandimmediateway,
thanunderanyother.Iwouldatoncesitdownupontheirveryhobsandtakeapersonaland

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confidentialpositionwiththemwhichshouldseparateme,instantly,fromallotherperiodicals
periodicallypublished,andsupplyadistinctandsufficientreasonformycomingintoexistence.
AndIwouldchirp,chirp,chirpawayineverynumberuntilIchirpedituptowell,youshall
sayhowmanyhundredthousand!...Seriously,Ifeelacapacityinthisnameandnotionwhich
appearstogiveusatangiblestartingpoint,andareal,defined,strong,genialdriftandpurpose.I
seemtofeelthatitisanaimandnamewhichpeoplewouldreadilyandpleasantlyconnectwith
meandthat,foragoodcourseandaclearone,insteadofmakingcirclespigeonlikeatstarting,
hereweshouldbesafe.Ithinkthegeneralrecognitionwouldbelikelytoleapatitandofthe
helpfulassociationsthatcouldbeclusteredroundtheideaatstarting,andthepleasanttoneof
whichtheworkingofitissusceptible,Ihavenotthesmallestdoubt....Butyoushalldetermine.
Whatdoyouthink?Andwhatdoyousay?Thechancesare,thatitwilleitherstrikeyouinstantly,
ornotstrikeyouatall.Whichisit,mydearfellow?YouknowIamnotbigotedtothefirst
suggestionsofmyownfancybutyouknowalsoexactlyhowIshouldusesuchalever,andhow
muchpowerIshouldfindinit.Whichisit?Whatdoyousay?Ihavenotmyselfsaidhalf
enough.Indeed,Ihavesaidnexttonothingbutliketheparrotinthenegrostory,I'thinkadam
deal.'"

Myobjection,incidentmoreorlesstoeverysuchscheme,wastheriskoflosingitsgeneral
advantagebymakingittoospeciallydependentonindividualcharacteristics:buttherewasmuch
infavourofthepresentnotion,anditsplanhadbeenmodifiedsofar,inthediscussionsthat
followed,astoinvolvelessabsolutepersonalidentificationwithDickens,whendiscussion,
project,everythingwassweptawaybyalargerscheme,initsextentanditsdangermoresuitableto
thewildandhazardousenterprisesofthatprodigiousyear(1845)ofexcitementanddisaster.In
thismoretremendousadventure,alreadyhintedatonapreviouspage,weallbecameinvolvedand
thechirpoftheCricket,delayedinconsequenceuntilChristmas,washeardthenincircumstances
quiteotherthanthosefirstintended.Thechangehethusannouncedtomeabouthalfwaythrough
thesummer,inthesameletterwhichtoldmethesuccessofd'Orsay'skindexertiontoprocurea
freshengagementforhiscourierRoche."Whatdoyouthinkofanotionthathasoccurredtomein
connectionwithourabandonedlittleweekly?Itwouldbeadelicateandbeautifulfancyfora
Christmasbook,makingtheCricketalittlehouseholdgodsilentinthewrongandsorrowofthe
tale,andloudagainwhenallwentwellandhappy."Thereaderwillnotneedtobetoldthatthus
originatedthestoryoftheCricketontheHearth,aFairyTaleofHome,whichhadagreat
popularityintheChristmasdaysof1845.Itssaleattheoutsetdoubledthatofbothits
predecessors.

Butasyetthelargeradventurehasnotmadeitselfknown,andtheintervalwasoccupiedwiththe
privateplayofwhichthenotionhadbeenstartedbetweenusathisvisitinDecember,andwhich
ledtohisdisclosureofapassageinhisearlycareerbelongingtothatintervalbetweenhisschool
daysandstartinlifewhenhehadtopassnearlytwowearyyearsasareporterforoneoftheoffices
inDoctors'Commons,fromwhichhesoughtreliefbyanattempttogetuponthestage.Ihadasked
him,afterhisreturntoGenoa,whetherhecontinuedtothinkthatweshouldhavetheplayandhis
replybeganthus:"Arewetohavethatplay???HaveIspokenofit,eversinceIcamehomefrom
London,asasettledthing!IdonotknowifIhaveevertoldyouseriously,butIhaveoftenthought,
thatIshouldcertainlyhavebeenassuccessfulontheboardsasIhavebeenbetweenthem.Iassure
you,whenIwasonthestageatMontreal(nothavingplayedforyears)Iwasasmuchastonishedat
therealityandease,tomyself,ofwhatIdidasifIhadbeenanotherman.Seehowoddlythings
comeabout!"

Thencametheinterestingbitofautobiographythereaderhashadbeforehim(ante,60)andhis
accountofthestagepracticehehadpreviouslygonethroughwithaviewtotheadventure,
containedinthesameletter,maybeaddedhere."ThiswasatthetimewhenIwasatDoctors'
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10/6/2015 JohnForster,"TheLifeofCharlesDickens"(5)

Commonsasashorthandwriterfortheproctors.Itwasn'taverygoodliving(thoughnotaverybad
one),andwaswearilyuncertainwhichmademethinkoftheTheatreinquiteabusinesslikeway.I
wenttosometheatreeverynight,withaveryfewexceptions,foratleastthreeyearsreally
studyingthebillsfirst,andgoingtowheretherewasthebestacting:andalwaystoseeMathews
wheneverheplayed.Ipractisedimmensely(evensuchthingsaswalkinginandout,andsitting
downinachair)oftenfour,five,sixhoursaday:shutupinmyownroom,orwalkingaboutinthe
fields.Iprescribedtomyself,too,asortofHamiltoniansystemforlearningpartsandlearnta
greatnumber.Ihaven'tevenlostthehabitnow,forIknewmyCanadianpartsimmediately,though
theywerenewtome.Imusthavedoneagooddeal:for,justasMacreadyfoundmeout,theyused
tochallengemeatBraham's:andYates,whowasknowingenoughinthosethings,wasn'ttobe
parriedatall.Itwasjustthesame,thatdayatKeeley's,whentheyweregettinguptheChuzzlewit
lastJune.IfyouthinkMacreadywouldbeinterestedinthisStrangenewsfromtheSouth,tellit
him.FancyBartleyorCharlesKemblenow!Andhowlittletheysuspectme!"Inthelaterletter
fromLucerne,writtenashewastravellinghome,headds:"DidIevertellyouthedetailsofmy
theatricalidea,before?Strange,thatIshouldhavequiteforgottenit.Ihadanoddfancy,whenI
wasreadingtheunfortunatelittlefarceatCoventgarden,thatBartleylookedasifsomestruggling
recollectionandconnectionwerestirringupwithinhimbutitmayonlyhavebeenhisdoubtsof
thathumorouscomposition."

WhatMighthaveBeenisahistoryoftoolittleprofittobeworthanybody'swriting,andherethere
isnocalleventoregrethowgreatanactorwasinDickenslost.Hetooktoahighercalling,butit
includedthelower.Therewasnocharactercreatedbyhimintowhichlifeandrealitywerenot
thrownwithsuchvividness,thattohisreadersthethingwrittendidnotseemthethingactually
done,whethertheformofdisguiseputonbytheenchanterwasMrs.Gamp,TomPinch,Mr.
Squeers,orFagintheJew.Hehadthepowerofprojectinghimselfintoshapesandsuggestionsof
hisfancywhichisoneofthemarvelsofcreativeimagination,andwhathedesiredtoexpresshe
became.Theassumptionsofthetheatrehavethesamemethodatalowerpitch,dependinggreatly
onpersonalaccidentbuttheaccidentasmuchasthegeniusfavouredDickens,andanotherman's
conceptionunderwentinhisactingtheprocesswhichinwritingheappliedtohisown.Intobothhe
flunghimselfwiththepassionatefullnessofhisnatureandthoughthetheatrehadlimitsforhim
thatmaybenamedhereafter,andhewasalwaysgreaterinquicknessofassumptionthanin
steadinessofdelineation,therewasnolimittohisdelightandenjoymentintheadventuresofour
theatricalholiday.

Inlessthanthreeweeksafterhisreturnwehadselectedourplay,castourparts,andallbut
engagedourtheatreasIfindbyanotefrommyfriendof22July,inwhichthegoodnaturedlaugh
cangivenooffencenow,sinceallwhomighthaveobjectedtoithavelonggonefromus.Fanny
Kelly,thefriendofCharlesLamb,andagenuinesuccessortotheoldschoolofactressesinwhich
theMrs.OrgersandMissPopeswerebred,wasnotmoredelightfulonthestagethanimpracticable
whenoff,andthelittletheatreinDeanstreetwhichtheDukeofDevonshire'smunificencehad
enabledhertobuild,andwhichwithanyordinarygoodsensemighthandsomelyhaverealized
bothitsuses,asaprivateschoolforyoungactressesandaplaceofpublicamusement,wasmade
uselessforbothbyhermerewhimsandfancies."Heavens!suchasceneasIhavehadwithMiss
Kellyhere,thismorning!Shewantedusputoffuntilthetheatreshouldbecleanedandbrushedup
abit,andshewouldandshewouldnot,forsheiseagertohaveusandalarmedwhenshethinksof
us.BythefootofPharaoh,itwasagreatscene!Especiallywhenshechoked,andhadtheglassof
waterbrought.Sheexaggeratestheimportanceofouroccupation,dreadstheleastprejudiceagainst
herestablishmentinthemindsofanyofourcompany,saystheplacealreadyhasquiteruinedher,
andwithtearsinhereyesproteststhatanyjokesatheradditionalexpenseinprintwoulddriveher
mad.BythebodyofCsar,thescenewasincredible!It'slikeapreposterousdream!"Something
ofourplayisdisclosedbytheoathslaBobadil,andofouractorsby"thejokes"poorMissKelly
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wasafraidof.WehadchosenEveryManinhisHumour,withspecialregardtothesinglenessand
individualityofthe"humours"portrayedinitandourcompanyincludedtheleadersofajournal
theninitsearliestyears,butalreadynotmorerenownedasthemostsuccessfuljokerofjokesyet
knowninEngland,thanfamousforthatexclusiveuseofitslaughterandsatireforobjectsthe
highestormostharmlesswhichmakesitstillsoenjoyableacompaniontomirthlovingright
mindedmen.Maclisetookearnestpartwithus,andwastohaveacted,butfellawayontheeveof
therehearsalsandStanfield,whowentsofarastorehearseDownrighttwice,thentookfrightand
alsoranaway,butJerrold,whoplayedMasterStephen,broughtwithhimLemon,whotook
BrainwormLeech,towhomMasterMatthewwasgivenA'Beckett,whohadcondescendedtothe
smallpartofWilliamandMr.Leigh,whohadOliverCob.IplayedKitely,andBobadilfellto
Dickens,whotookuponhimtheredoubtableCaptainlongbeforehestoodinhisdressatthe
footlightshumouringthecompletenessofhisassumptionbytalkingandwritingBobadil,tillthe
dullestofourpartyweretouchedandstirredtosomethingofhisownheartinessofenjoyment.One
ortwohintsofthesehavebeengiven,andIwillonlyaddtothemhisrefusalofmywishthathe
shouldgoandseesomespecialperformanceoftheGamester."ManoftheHouse.Gamester!By
thefootofPharaoh,IwillnotseetheGamester.Manshallnotforce,norhorsesdrag,thispoor
gentlemanlikecarcassintothepresenceoftheGamester.Ihavesaidit....TheplayerMachath
biddenmetoeatandlikewisedrinkwithhim,thyself,andshortneckedFoxtonight.An'Igonot,
Iamahog,andnotasoldier.Butan'thougoestnotBewarecitizen!Looktoit....Thineasthou
meritest.Bobadil(Captain).UntoMasterKitely.These."

Theplaywasplayedon21Septemberwithasuccessthatoutranthewildestexpectationand
turnedourlittleenterpriseintooneofthesmallsensationsoftheday.Theapplauseofthetheatre
foundsoloudanechointhepress,thatforthetimenothingelsewastalkedaboutinprivate
circlesandafteraweekortwowehadtoyield(wedidnotfinditdifficult)toapressureof
demandformorepublicperformanceinalargertheatre,bywhichausefulcharityreceived
importanthelp,anditscommitteeshowedtheirgratitudebyanentertainmenttousatthe
Clarendon,amonthortwolater,whenLordLansdownetookthechair.Therewasalsoanother
performancebyusatthesametheatre,beforethecloseoftheyear,oftheElderBrotherby
BeaumontandFletcher.Imaynotfartherindicatetheenjoymentsthatattendedthesuccess,and
gavealwaystothefirstofourseriesofperformancesapreeminentlypleasantplaceinmemory.

Ofthethingitself,however,itisnecessarytobesaidthatamodicumofmeritgoesalongwayin
allsuchmatters,anditwouldnotbesafenowtoassumethatourswasmuchabovetheaverageof
amateurattemptsingeneral.Lemoncertainlyhadmostofthestuff,conventionalaswellas
otherwise,ofaregularactorinhim,butthiswasnotofahighkindandthoughDickenshadthe
titletobecalledaborncomedian,theturnforitbeinginhisverynature,hisstrengthwasratherin
thevividnessandvarietyofhisassumptions,thaninthecompleteness,finish,oridealityhecould
givetoanypartofthem.Itisexpressedexactlybywhathesaysofhisyouthfulpreferenceforthe
representationsoftheelderMathews.Atthesametimethiswasinitselfsothoroughlygenuineand
enjoyable,andhadinitsuchquicknessandkeennessofinsight,thatofitskinditwasunrivalled
anditenabledhimtopresentinBobadil,afterarichlycolouredpictureofbombastical
extravaganceandcomicexaltationintheearlierscenes,acontrastinthelateroftragicalhumility
andabasementthathadawonderfuleffect.Butgreatlyashisactingcontributedtothesuccessof
thenight,thiswasnothingtotheservicehehadrenderedasmanager.Itwouldbedifficultto
describeit.Hewasthelifeandsouloftheentireaffair.Ineverseemedtillthentohaveknownhis
businesscapabilities.Hetookeverythingonhimself,anddidthewholeofitwithoutaneffort.He
wasstagedirector,veryoftenstagecarpenter,scenearranger,propertyman,prompter,and
bandmaster.Withoutoffendinganyonehekepteveryoneinorder.Forallhehaduseful
suggestions,andthedullestofclaysunderhispotter'shandweretransformedintolittlebitsof
porcelain.Headjustedscenes,assistedcarpenters,inventedcostumes,devisedplaybills,wroteout
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calls,andenforcedaswellasexhibitedinhisproperpersoneverythingofwhichheurgedthe
necessityonothers.Suchachaosofdirt,confusion,andnoise,asthelittletheatrewasthedaywe
enteredit,andsuchacosmosashemadeitofcleanliness,order,andsilence,beforetherehearsals
wereover!Therewereonlytwothingsleftaswefoundthem,bitsofhumanityboth,understood
fromthefirstasamongthefixturesoftheplace:aManinaStrawHat,tall,andveryfitfulinhis
exitsandentrances,ofwhomwenevercouldpiercethemystery,whetherhewasonguardorin
possession,orwhathewasandasolitarylittlegirl,whoflittedaboutsosilentlyamongouractors
andactressesthatshemighthavebeendeafanddumbbutforsuddensmallshrieksandstarts
elicitedbythewondersgoingon,whichobtainedforherthenameofFireworks.Thereissuch
humorousallusiontobothinaletterofDickens'sofayear'slaterdate,ontheoccasionofthe
strawhattedmysteryrevealingitselfasagentlemanintrainingforthetragicstage,thatitmay
pleasantlycloseforthepresentourprivatetheatricals.

"OurstrawhattedfriendfromMissKelly's!Ohmystars!Tothinkofhim,allthattimeMacbeth
indisguiseRichardtheThirdgrownstraightHamletasheappearedonhisseavoyageto
England.Whatanartfulvillainhemustbe,nevertohavemadeanysignofthemelodramathatwas
inhim!WhatawickedmindedandremorselessIagotohaveseenyoudoingKitelynightafter
night!ragingtomurderyouandseizethepart!OhfancyMissKelly'gettinghimup'inMacbeth.
GoodHeaven!whatamassofabsurditymustbeshutupsometimeswithinthewallsofthatsmall
theatreinDeanstreet!Fireworkswillcomeoutshortly,dependuponit,inthedumblineandwill
relateherhistoryinprofoundlyunintelligiblemotionsthatwillbetranslatedintolongand
complicateddescriptionsbyagreyheadedfather,andaredwiggedcountryman,hisson.You
rememberthedumbdodgeofrelatinganescapefromcaptivity?Claspingtheleftwristwiththe
righthand,andtherightwristwiththelefthandalternately(toexpresschains)andthengoing
roundandroundthestageveryfast,andcominghandoverhanddownanimaginarycord:atthe
endofwhichthereisonestrokeonthedrum,andakneelingtothechandelier?IfFireworkscan't
dothatandwon'tsomewhereI'maDutchman."

Graverthingsnowclaimanoticewhichneednotbeproportionedtotheirgravity,because,though
theyhadanimmediateeffectonDickens'sfortunes,theydonototherwiseformpartofhisstory.
Butfirstletmesay,hewasatBroadstairsforthreeweeksintheautumnwehadtheprivateplay
onhisreturnandamonthlater,on28October,asixthchildandfourthson,namedAlfred
Tennysonafterhisgodfathersd'OrsayandTennyson,wasborninDevonshireterrace.0Adeathin
thefamilyfollowed,theolderandmoregiftedofhisravenshavingindulgedthesameillicittaste
forputtyandpaintwhichhadbeenfataltohispredecessor.Voracitykilledhim,asitkilledScott's.
Hediedunexpectedlybeforethekitchenfire."Hekepthiseyetothelastuponthemeatasit
roasted,andsuddenlyturnedoveronhisbackwithasepulchralcryofCuckoo!"Theletterwhich
toldmethis(31October)announcedtomealsothathewasatadeadlockinhisChristmasstory:
"Sick,botheredanddepressed.VisionsofBrightoncomeuponmeandIhaveagreatmindtogo
theretofinishmysecondpart,ortoHampstead.IhaveadesperatethoughtofJackStraw's.Inever
wasinsuchbadwritingcueasIamthisweek,inallmylife."Thereasonwasnotfartoseek.In
thepreparationfortheproposednewDailyPapertowhichreferencehasbeenmade,hewasnow
activelyassisting,andhadallbutconsentedtothepublicationofhisname.

Ientertainedatthistime,formorethanonepowerfulreason,thegreatestmisgivingofhisintended
shareintheadventure.Itwasnotfullyrevealeduntillateronwhatdifficultterms,physicalaswell
asmental,DickensheldthetenureofhisimaginativelifebutalreadyIknewenoughtodoubtthe
wisdomofwhathewasatpresentundertaking.Inallintellectuallabour,hiswillprevailedso
stronglywhenhefixeditonanyobjectofdesire,thatwhatelseitsattainmentmightexactwas
neverdulymeasuredandthisledtofrequentstrainandunconsciouswasteofwhatnomancould
lessaffordtospare.Totheworldgladdenedbyhiswork,itsproductionmightalwayshaveseemed
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quiteaseasyasitsenjoymentbutitmaybedoubtedifeveranyman'smentaleffortcosthim
more.Hishabitswererobust,butnothishealththatsecrethadbeendisclosedtomebeforehe
wenttoAmericaandtothelasthedecidedlyrefusedtoadmittheenormouspricehehadpaidfor
histriumphsandsuccesses.ThemorningafterhislastnoteIheardagain."Ihavebeensovery
unwellthismorning,withgiddiness,andheadache,andbotherationofonesortorother,thatI
didn'tgetuptillnoon:and,shunningFleetstreet"(theofficeoftheproposednewpaper),"amnow
goingforacountrywalk,inthecourseofwhichyouwillfindme,ifyoufeeldisposedtocome
awayinthecarriagethatgoestoyouwiththis.ItistocallforapullofthefirstpartoftheCricket,
andwillbringyou,ifyoulike,bywayofHampsteadtome,andsubsequentlytodinner.Thereis
muchIshouldliketodiscuss,ifyoucanmanageit.It'sthelossofmywalks,IsupposebutIamas
giddyasifIweredrunk,andcanhardlysee."Igavefarfromsufficientimportanceatthetimeto
thefrequencyofcomplaintsofthiskind,ortotherecurrence,atalmostregularperiodsafterthe
yearfollowingthepresent,ofthosespasmsinthesideofwhichhehasrecordedaninstanceinthe
recollectionsofhischildhood,andofwhichhehadanattackinGenoabutthoughnotconscious
ofittoitsfullextent,thisconsiderationwasamongthosethatinfluencedmeinadeterminationto
endeavourtoturnhimfromwhatcouldnotbutberegardedasfullofperil.Hishealth,however,
hadnorealprominenceinmyletteranditisstrangenowtoobservethatitappearsasanargument
inhisreply.Ihadsimplyputbeforehim,inthestrongestform,alltheconsiderationsdrawnfrom
hisgeniusandfamethatshoulddeterhimfromthelabourandresponsibilityofadailypaper,not
lessthanfromthepartyandpoliticalinvolvementsincidenttoitandherewasthematerialpartof
theanswermade."Manythanksforyouraffectionateletter,whichisfullofgeneroustruth.These
considerationsweighwithme,heavily:butIthinkIdescryinthesetimes,greaterstimulantsto
suchaneffortgreaterchanceofsomefairrecognitionofitgreatermeansofperseveringinit,or
retiringfromitunscratchedbyanyweapononeshouldcareforthanatanyotherperiod.Andmost
ofallIhave,sometimes,thatpossibilityoffailinghealthorfadingpopularitybeforeme,which
beckonsmetosuchaventurewhenitcomeswithinmyreach.Attheworst,Ihavewrittentolittle
purpose,ifIcannotwritemyselfrightinpeople'sminds,insuchacaseasthis."

Andsoitwenton:butitdoesnotfallwithinmyplantodescribemorethantheissue,whichwasto
beaccountedsofaratleastfortunatethatitestablishedajournalwhichhasadvocatedsteadily
improvementsintheconditionofallclasses,richaswellaspoor,andhasbeenable,duringlate
momentousoccurrences,togivewiderscopetoitsinfluencebyitsenterpriseandliberality.Tothat
result,thegreatwriterwhosenamegaveitsearliestattractiontotheDailyNewswasnotenabledto
contributemuchbutfromhimitcertainlyreceivedthefirstimpressoftheopinionsithassince
consistentlymaintained.Itsprospectusisbeforemeinhishandwriting,butitbearsuponitself
sufficientlythecharacterofhishandandmind.Thepaperwouldbekeptfree,itsaid,from
personalinfluenceorpartybiasandwouldbedevotedtotheadvocacyofallrationalandhonest
meansbywhichwrongmightberedressed,justrightsmaintained,andthehappinessandwelfare
ofsocietypromoted.

ThedayfortheappearanceofitsfirstnumberwasthatwhichwastofollowPeel'sspeechforthe
repealofthecornlawsbut,briefasmyallusionstothesubjectare,theremarkshouldbemade
thatevenbeforethisdaycametherewereinterruptionstotheworkofpreparation,atonetimevery
grave,whichthrewsuch"changesofvexation"onDickens'spersonalrelationstotheventureas
wentfartodestroybothhisfaithandhispleasureinit.Noopinionneedbeofferedastowhere
mostoftheblamelay,anditwouldbeuselessnowtoapportionthesharethatmightpossiblyhave
belongedtohimselfbut,owingtothiscause,hiseditorialworkbeganwithsuchdiminishedardour
thatitsbriefcontinuancecouldnotbutbelookedfor.Alittlenotewritten"beforegoinghome"at
sixo'clockinthemorningofWednesday,21January1846,totellmetheyhad"beenatpressthree
quartersofanhour,andwereoutbeforeTheTimes,"marksthebeginningandanotewritteninthe
nightofMonday,9February,"tiredtodeathandquitewornout,"tosaythathehadjustresigned
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hiseditorialfunctions,describestheend.Ihadnotbeenunprepared.Aweekbefore(Friday,30
January)hehadwritten:"Iwantalongtalkwithyou.Iwasobligedtocomedownhereinahurry
togiveoutatravellingletterImeanttohavegivenoutlastnight,andcouldnotcalluponyou.Will
youdinewithustomorrowatsixsharp?Ihavebeenrevolvingplansinmymindthismorningfor
quittingthepaperandgoingabroadagaintowriteanewbookinshillingnumbers.Shallwegoto
Rochestertomorrowweek(mybirthday)iftheweatherbe,asitsurelymustbe,better?"To
Rochesteraccordinglywehadgone,heandMrs.Dickensandhersister,withMacliseandJerrold
andmyselfgoingovertheoldCastle,Watts'sCharity,andChathamfortificationsontheSaturday,
passingSundayinCobhamchurchandCobhamParkhavingourquartersbothdaysatthe"Bull"
InnmadefamousinPickwickandthus,byindulgenceofthedesirewhichwasalwaysstrangely
urgentinhim,associatinghisnewresolveinlifewiththoseearliestscenesofhisyouthfultime.On
onepointourfeelinghadbeeninthoroughagreement.Iflongcontinuancewiththepaperwasnot
likely,theearliestpossibledeparturefromitwasdesirable.Butasthelettersdescriptiveofhis
Italiantravel(turnedafterwardsintoPicturesfromItaly)hadbegunwithitsfirstnumber,hisname
couldnotatoncebewithdrawnand,forthetimeduringwhichtheywerestilltoappear,he
consentedtocontributeotheroccasionallettersonimportantsocialquestions.Publicexecutions
andRaggedSchoolswereamongthesubjectschosenbyhim,andallwerehandledwith
conspicuousability.Buttheintervaltheycoveredwasashortone.

Tothesupremecontrolwhichhehadquitted,Isucceeded,retainingitveryreluctantlyforthe
greaterpartofthatweary,anxious,laboriousyearbutinlittlemorethanfourmonthsfromtheday
thepaperstarted,thewholeofDickens'sconnectionwiththeDailyNews,eventhatofcontributing
letterswithhissignature,hadceased.AshesaidintheprefacetotherepublishedPictures,itwasa
mistake,insodepartingfromhisoldpursuits,tohavedisturbedtheoldrelationsbetweenhimself
andhisreaders.Ithad,however,been"abriefmistake"thedeparturehadbeenonly"fora
moment"andnowthosepursuitswere"joyfully"toberesumedinSwitzerland.Uponthelatter
pointwehadmuchdiscussionbuthewasbentonagainremovinghimselffromLondon,andhis
glimpseoftheSwissmountainsonhiscomingfromItalyhadgivenhimapassiontovisitthem
again."Idon'tthink,"hewrotetome,"Icouldshutoutthepapersufficiently,here,towritewell.
No....IwillwritemybookinLausanneandinGenoa,andforgeteverythingelseifIcanandby
livinginSwitzerlandforthesummer,andinItalyorFranceforthewinter,Ishallbesavingmoney
whileIwrite."Sothereforeitwasfinallydetermined.

Thereisnotmuchthatcallsformentionbeforeheleft.Thefirstconceivingofanewbookwas
alwaysarestlesstime,andothersubjectsbesidethecharactersthatweregrowinginhismind
wouldpersistentlyintrudethemselvesintohisnightwanderings.WithsomesurpriseIheardfrom
himafterwards,forexample,ofacommunicationopenedwithaleadingmemberofthe
governmenttoascertainwhatchancestheremightbeforhisappointment,uponduequalification,
tothepaidmagistracyofLondon:thereplynotgivinghimencouragementtoentertainthenotion
further.Itwasofcoursebutanoutbreakofmomentarydiscontentandiftheanswerhadbeenas
hopeful,as,forothers'sakeratherthanhisown,onecouldhavewishedittobe,theresultwould
havebeenthesame.Justupontheeveofhisdeparture,Imayadd,hetookmuchinterestinthe
establishmentoftheGeneralTheatricalFund,ofwhichheremainedatrusteeuntilhisdeath.Ithad
originatedinthefactthatthefundsofthetwolargetheatres,themselvesthendisusedfortheatrical
performances,werenolongeravailablefortheordinarymembersoftheprofessionandonthe
occasionofhispresidingatitsfirstdinnerinApril,hesaid,veryhappily,thatnowthestatueof
ShakespeareoutsidethedoorofDruryLane,asemphaticallyashisbustinsidethechurchof
StratfordonAvon,pointedouthisgrave.Iamtemptedalsotomentionasfelicitousawordwhich
Iheardfallfromhimatoneofthemanyprivatedinnersthatweregotupinthosedaysofpartingto
givehimfriendliestfarewell."Nothingiseversogoodasitisthought,"saidLordMelbourne.
"Andnothingsobad,"interposedDickens.
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ThelastincidentswerethatheagainobtainedRocheforhistravellingservant,andthathelethis
DevonshireTerracehousetoSirJamesDukefortwelvemonths,theentireproposedtermofhis
absence.On30Maytheyalldinedwithme,andonthefollowingdayleftEngland.

II
RETREATTOSWITZERLAND
1846

HaltingonlyatOstend,Verviers,Coblentz,andMannheim,theyreachedStrasburgon7June:the
beautyoftheweathershowingthemtheRhineatitsbest.AtMayencetherehadcomeaboardtheir
boataGerman,whosoonafteraccostedMrs.DickensondeckinexcellentEnglish:"Your
countrymanMr.Dickensistravellingthiswayjustnow,ourpaperssay.Doyouknowhim,orhave
youpassedhimanywhere?"Explanationsensuing,itturnedout,byoneoftheoddchancesmy
friendthoughthimselfalwayssingledoutfor,thathehadwithhimaletterofintroductiontothe
brotherofthisgentlemanwhothenspoketohimofthepopularityofhisbooksinGermany,andof
themanypersonshehadseenreadingtheminthesteamboatsashecamealong.Dickens
remarkingatthishowgreathisownvexationwasnottobeablehimselftospeakawordof
German,"Ohdear!thatneedn'ttroubleyou,"rejoinedtheother"foreveninsosmallatownas
ours,wherewearemostlyprimitivepeopleandhavefewtravellers,Icouldmakeapartyofatleast
fortypeoplewhounderstandandspeakEnglishaswellasIdo,andofatleastasmanymorewho
couldmanagetoreadyouintheoriginal."HistownwasWorms,whichDickensafterwardssaw,".
..afineoldplace,thoughgreatlyshrunkenanddecayedinrespectofitspopulationwitha
picturesqueoldcathedralstandingonthebrinkoftheRhine,andsomebraveoldchurchesshutup,
andsohemmedinandovergrownwithvineyardsthattheylookasiftheywereturningintoleaves
andgrapes."

HehadnootheradventureontheRhine.But,onthesamesteamer,anotunfamiliarbitofcharacter
greetedhiminthewellknownlineaments,moralandphysical,oftwotravellingEnglishmenwho
hadgotanimmensebaroucheonboardwiththem,andhadnoplanwhateverofgoinganywherein
it.Oneofthemwantedtohavethisbarouchewheeledashoreateverylittletownandvillagethey
cameto.Theotherwasbentupon"seeingitout,"ashesaidmeaning,Dickenssupposed,the
riverthoughneitherofthemseemedtohavetheslightestinterestinit."Thelocomotiveonewould
havegoneashorewithoutthecarriage,andwouldhavebeendelightedtogetridofitbuttheyhad
ajointcourier,andneitherofthemwouldpartwithhimforamomentsotheywentgrowlingand
grumblingontogether,andseemedtohavenosatisfactionbutinaskingforimpossibleviandson
boardtheboat,andhavingagrimdelightinthesteward'sexcuses."

FromStrasburgtheywentbyrailonthe8thtoBale,fromwhichtheystartedforLausannenext
day,inthreecoaches,twohorsestoeach,takingthreedaysforthejourney:itsonlyenlivening
incidentbeinganuproarbetweenthelandlordofaninnontheroad,andoneofthevoiturierswho
hadlibelledBoniface'sestablishmentbycomplainingofthefood."Aftervariousdefiancesonboth
sides,thelandlordsaid'Sclrat!Mcrant!Jevousboaxerai!'towhichthevoiturierreplied,'Aha!
Commentditesbous?Voulezvousboaxer?Eh?Voulezvous?Ah!Boaxezmoidonc!Boaxez
moi!'atthesametimeaccompanyingtheseretortswithgesturesofviolentsignificance,which
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explainedthatthisnewverbactivewasfoundedonthewellknownEnglishverbtoboax,orbox.
Iftheyuseditonce,theyuseditatleastahundredtimes,andgoadedeachothertomadnesswithit
always."ThetravellersreachedthehotelGibbonatLausanneontheeveningofThursday,11June
havingbeentemptedastheycamealongtorestsomewhatshortofit,byadelightfulglimpseof
Neuchatel."OnconsiderationhoweverIthoughtitbesttocomeonhere,incaseIshouldfind,
whenIbegintowrite,thatIwantstreetssometimes.Inwhichcase,Geneva(whichIhopewould
answerthepurpose)isonlyfourandtwentymilesaway."

Heatoncebeganhousehunting,andhadtwodays'hardworkofit.Hefoundthegreaterpartof
thoselettotheEnglishlikesmallvillasintheRegent'spark,withverandahs,glassdoorsopening
onlawns,andalcovesoverlookinglakeandmountains.Oncehewastemptedby,higherupthe
hill,"poisedabovethetownlikeashiponahighwave"butthepossiblefuryofitswinterwinds
deterredhim.Greaterstillwasthetemptationtohimof"L'Elyse,"moreamansionthanavilla
withsplendidgroundsoverlookingthelake,andinitscorridorsandstaircasesaswellasfurniture
likeanoldfashionedcountryhouseinEnglandwhichhecouldhavegotfortwelvemonthsfor
160."ButwhenIcametoconsideritsvastness,Iwasratherdismayedattheprospectofwindy
nightsintheautumn,withnobodystayinginthehousetomakeitgay."Andsoheagainfellback
upontheveryfirstplacehehadseen,Rosemont,quiteadoll'shousewithtwoprettylittlesalons,a
diningroom,hall,andkitchen,onthegroundfloorandwithjustenoughbedroomsupstairsto
leavethefamilyonetospare."Itisbeautifullysituatedonthehillthatrisesfromthelake,within
tenminutes'walkofthishotel,andfurnished,thoughscantilyasallhereare,betterthanothers
exceptElyse,onaccountofitshavingbeenbuiltandfittedup(thelittlesalonsintheParisian
way)bythelandladyandherhusbandforthemselves.Theylivenowinasmallerhouselikea
porter'slodge,justwithinthegate.Aportionofthegroundsisfarmedbyafarmer,andhelives
closebysothat,whileitissecluded,itisnotatalllonely."Therentwastobetenpoundsamonth
forhalfayear,withreductiontoeightforthesecondhalf,ifheshouldstaysolongandtherooms
andfurnitureweretobedescribedtome,sothataccordingtocustomIshouldbequiteathome
there,assoonas,alsoaccordingtoacustomwellknown,hisowningeniousrearrangementsand
improvementsinthechairsandtablesshouldbecompleted."Ishallmerelyobserveatpresent
therefore,thatmylittlestudyisupstairs,andlooksout,fromtwoFrenchwindowsopeningintoa
balcony,onthelakeandmountainsandthattherearerosesenoughtosmotherthewhole
establishmentoftheDailyNewsin.Likewise,thereisapavilioninthegarden,whichhasbuttwo
roomsinitinoneofwhich,Ithinkyoushalldoyourworkwhenyoucome.Astobowersfor
readingandsmoking,thereareasmanyscatteredaboutthegroundsasthereareinChalkfarmtea
gardens.ButtheRosemontbowersarereallybeautiful.Willyoucometothebowers...?"

VerypleasantweretheearliestimpressionsofSwitzerlandwithwhichthisfirstletterclosed."The
countryisdelightfulintheextremeasleafy,green,andshady,asEnglandfullofdeepglens,
andbranchyplaces(ratheraLeighHuntishexpression),andbrightwithallsortsofflowersin
profusion.ItaboundsinsingingbirdsbesidesverypleasantafterItalyandthemoonlightonthe
lakeisnoble.Prodigiousmountainsriseupfromitsoppositeshore(itiseightorninemilesacross,
atthispoint),andtheSimplon,theSt.Gothard,MontBlancandalltheAlpinewondersarepiled
there,intremendousgrandeur.Thecultivationisuncommonlyrichandprofuse.Thereareall
mannerofwalks,vineyards,greenlanes,cornfields,andpasturesfullofhay.Thegeneralneatness
isasremarkableasinEngland.Therearenopriestsormonksinthestreets,andthepeopleappear
tobeindustriousandthriving.French(andveryintelligibleandpleasantFrench)seemstobethe
universallanguage.Ineversawsomanybooksellers'shopscrammedwithinthesamespace,asin
thesteepupanddownstreetsofLausanne."

Ofthelittletownhespokeinhisnextletterashavingitsnaturaldulnessincreasedbythatfactof
itsstreetsgoingupanddownhillabruptlyandsteeply,likethestreetsinadreamandthe
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consequentdifficultyofgettingaboutit."Therearesomesuppressedchurchesinit,nowusedas
packers'warehouses:withcranesandpulleysgrowingoutofsteepletowerslittledoorsfor
loweringgoodsthrough,fittedintoblockeduporielwindowsandcarthorsesstabledincrypts.
Thesealsohelptogiveitadesertedanddisusedappearance.Ontheotherhand,asitisaperfectly
freeplacesubjecttonoprohibitionsorrestrictionsofanykind,thereareallsortsofnewFrench
booksandpublicationsinit,andallsortsoffreshintelligencefromtheworldbeyondtheJura
mountains.ItcontainsonlyoneRomanCatholicchurch,whichismainlyfortheuseofthe
SavoyardsandPiedmontesewhocometradingovertheAlps.Asforthecountry,itcannotbe
praisedtoohighly,orreportedtoobeautiful.Therearenogreatwaterfalls,orwalksthrough
mountaingorges,closeathand,asinsomeotherpartsofSwitzerlandbutthereisacharming
varietyofenchantingscenery.Thereistheshoreofthelake,whereyoumaydipyourfeet,asyou
walk,inthedeepbluewater,ifyouchoose.Therearethehillstoclimbup,leadingtothegreat
heightsabovethetownortostaggerdown,leadingtothelake.Thereiseverypossiblevarietyof
deepgreenlanes,vineyard,cornfield,pastureland,andwood.Thereareexcellentcountryroads
thatmightbeinKentorDevonshire:and,closingupeveryviewandvista,isaneternallychanging
rangeofprodigiousmountainssometimesred,sometimesgrey,sometimespurple,sometimes
black,sometimeswhitewithsnowsometimescloseathandandsometimesveryghostsinthe
cloudsandmist."

Intheheartofthesethingshewasnowtoliveandworkforatleastsixmonthsand,astheloveof
naturewasasmuchapassionwithhiminhisintervalsofleisure,asthecravingforcrowdsand
streetswhenhewasbusywiththecreaturesofhisfancy,nomanwasbetterqualifiedtoenjoywhat
wasthusopentohimfromhislittlefarm.

Theviewfromeachsideofitwasdifferentincharacter,andfromonetherewasvisiblethe
liveliestaspectofLausanneitself,closeathand,andseeming,ashesaid,tobealwayscoming
downthehillwithitssteeplesandtowers,notabletostopitself."Fromafinelongbroadbalcony
onwhichthewindowsofmylittlestudyonthefirstfloor(whereIamnowwriting)open,thelake
isseentowonderfuladvantage,losingitselfbydegreesinthesolemngorgeofmountains
leadingtotheSimplonpass.Underthebalconyisastonecolonnade,onwhichthesixFrench
windowsofthedrawingroomopenandquantitiesofplantsareclusteredaboutthepillarsand
seats,veryprettily.Oneofthesedrawingroomsisfurnished(likeaFrenchhotel)withredvelvet,
andtheotherwithgreeninboth,plentyofmirrorsandnicewhitemuslincurtainsandforthe
largeroneincoldweatherthereisacarpet,thefloorsbeingbarenow,butinlaidinsquareswith
differentcolouredwoods."Hisdescriptiondidnotcloseuntil,ineverynookandcornerinhabited
bytheseveralmembersofthefamily,Iwasmadetofeelmyselfathomebutonlythefinal
sentenceneedbeadded."WalkingoutintothebalconyasIwrite,Iamsuddenlyreminded,bythe
sightoftheCastleofChillonglitteringinthesunlightonthelake,thatIomittedtomentionthat
objectinmycatalogueoftheRosemontbeauties.Pleasetoputit,likeGeorgeRobins,inalineby
itself."

Regulareveningwalksofnineortenmileswerenamedinthesameletter(22June)ashavingbeen
begunandthoughtsofhisbookswerealreadystirringinhim."Anoddshadowyundefinedideais
atworkwithinme,thatIcouldconnectagreatbattlefieldsomehowwithmylittleChristmas
story.Shapelessvisionsofthereposeandpeacepervadingitinaftertimewiththecornandgrass
growingovertheslain,andpeoplesingingattheplougharesoperpetuallyfloatingbeforeme,that
IcannotbutthinktheremayturnouttobesomethinggoodinthemwhenIseethemmoreplainly..
..IwanttogetFourNumbersofthemonthlybookdonehere,andtheChristmasbook.Ifallgoes
well,andnothingchanges,andIcanaccomplishthisbytheendofNovember,Ishallrunoverto
youinEnglandforafewdayswithalightheart,andleaveRochetomovethecaravanintoParisin
themeanwhile.Itwillbejusttheverypointinthestorywhenthelifeandcrowdofthat
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extraordinaryplacewillcomevividlytomyassistanceinwriting."Suchwashisdesignand,
thoughdifficultiesnotnowseenstartedupwhichhehadahardfighttogetthrough,hemanagedto
accomplishit.Hisletterendedwithapromisetotellme,whennexthewrote,ofthesmallcolony
ofEnglishwhoseemedreadytogivehimevenmorethantheusualwelcome.Twovisitshadthus
earlybeenpaidhimbyMr.Haldimand,formerlyamemberoftheEnglishparliament,an
accomplishedman,who,withhissisterMrs.Marcet(thewellknownauthoress),hadlongmade
Lausannehishome.HehadaveryfineseatjustbelowRosemont,andhischaracterandstationhad
madehimquitethelittlesovereignoftheplace."Hehasfoundedandendowedallsortsof
hospitalsandinstitutionshere,andhegivesadinnertomorrowtointroduceourneighbours,
whoevertheyare."

Hefoundthemtobehappilythekindofpeoplewhorenderedentirelypleasantthosefrankand
cordialhospitalitieswhichthecharmofhispersonalintercoursemadeeveryonesoeagertooffer
him.ThedinneratMr.Haldimand'swasfollowedbydinnersfromtheguestshemettherefroman
EnglishladymarriedtoaSwiss,Mr.andMrs.Cerjat,cleverandagreeableboth,farbeyondthe
commonfromhersisterweddedtoanEnglishman,Mr.andMrs.GoffandfromMr.andMrs.
WatsonofRockinghamcastleinNorthamptonshire,whohadtakentheElyseeonDickensgivingit
up,andwithwhom,aswithMr.Haldimand,hisrelationscontinuedtobeveryintimatelongafter
heleftLausanne.InhisdrivetoMr.Cerjat'sdinnerawhimsicaldifficultypresenteditself.Hehad
setup,foruseofhiswifeandchildren,anoddlittleonehorsecarriagemadetoholdthreepersons
sideways,sothattheyshouldavoidthewindalwaysblowingupordownthevalleyandhefound
itattendedwithoneofthedrollestconsequencesconceivable."Itcan'tbeeasilyturnedandasyou
facetotheside,allsortsofevolutionsarenecessarytobringyou'broadsideto'beforethedoorof
thehousewhereyouaregoing.ThecountryhouseshereareverylikethoseupontheThames
betweenRichmondandKingston(this,particularly),withgroundsallround.AtMr.Cerjat'swe
wereobligedtobecarried,likethechild'sriddle,roundthehouseandroundthehouse,without
touchingthehouseandwewerepresentedinthemostalarmingmannerthreeofarow,firsttoall
thepeopleinthekitchen,thentothegovernesswhowasdressinginherbedroom,thentothe
drawingroomwherethecompanywerewaitingforus,thentothediningroomwheretheywere
spreadingthetable,andfinallytothehallwhereweweregotoutscrapingthewindowsofeach
apartmentasweglaredslowlyintoit."

Adinnerpartyofhisownfollowedofcourseandasadoccurrence,ofwhichheandhisguests
wereunconscious,signalisedtheevening(15July)."Whileweweresittingatdinner,oneofthe
prettiestgirlsinLausannewasdrownedinthelakeinthemostpeacefulwater,reflectingthe
steepmountains,andcrimsonwiththesettingsun.Shewasbathinginoneofthenookssetapart
forwomen,andseemssomehowtohaveentangledherfeetintheskirtsofherdress.Shewasan
accomplishedswimmer,asmanyofthegirlsarehere,anddrifted,suddenly,outofonlyfivefeet
water.Threeorfourfriendswhowerewithher,ranaway,screaming.Ourchildren'sgoverness
wasonthelakeinaboatwithM.Verdeil(myprisondoctor)andhisfamily.Theyraninshore
immediatelythebodywasquicklygotoutandM.Verdeil,withthreeorfourotherdoctors,
labouredforsomehourstorestoreanimationbutsheonlysighedonce.Afterallthattime,shewas
obligedtobeborne,stiffandstark,toherfather'shouse.Shewashisonlychild,andbutseventeen
yearsold.Hehasbeennearlydeadsince,andallLausannehasbeenfullofthestory.Iwasdown
bythelake,neartheplace,lastnightandaboatmanactedtomethewholescene:depositing
himselffinallyonaheapofstone,torepresentthebody."

WithM.Verdeil,physiciantotheprisonandvicepresidentofthecouncilofhealth,introducedby
Mr.Haldimand,therehadalreadybeenmuchcommunicationandIcouldgivenothingmore
characteristicofDickensthanhisreferencetothis,andothersimilarmattersinwhichhisinterest
wasstronglymovedduringhisfirstweeksatLausanne.
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"Someyearsago,whentheysetaboutreformingtheprisonatLausanne,theyturnedtheir
attention,inacorrespondenceofrepublicanfeeling,toAmericaandtakingthePhiladelphian
systemforgranted,adoptedit.Terriblefits,newphasesofmentalaffection,andhorriblemadness,
amongtheprisoners,wereverysoontheresultandattainedtosuchanalarmingheight,thatM.
Verdeil,inhispubliccapacity,begantoreportagainstthesystem,andwentonreportingand
workingagainstituntilheformedapartywhoweredeterminednottohaveit,andcausedittobe
abolishedexceptincaseswheretheimprisonmentdoesnotexceedtenmonthsinthewhole.Itis
remarkablethatinhisnotesofthedifferentcases,thereiseveryeffectImentionedashaving
observedatPhiladelphiaevendowntothosecontainedinthedescriptionofthemanwhohadbeen
therethirteenyears,andwhopickedhishandssomuchashetalked.Hehasonlyrecently,hesays,
readtheAmericanNotesbutheissomuchstruckbytheperfectcoincidencethatheintendsto
republishsomeextractsfromhisownnotes,sidebysidewiththesepassagesofminetranslated
intoFrench.Iwentwithhimovertheprisontheotherday.Itiswonderfullywellarrangedfora
continentaljail,andinperfectorder.Thesentenceshowever,orsomeofthem,areveryterrible.I
sawonemansentthereformurderundercircumstancesofmitigationfor30years.Uponthe
silentsocialsystemallthetime!Theyweave,andplaitstraw,andmakeshoes,smallarticlesof
turneryandcarpentry,andlittlecommonwoodenclocks.Butthesentencesaretoolongforthat
monotonousandhopelesslifeand,thoughtheyarewellfedandcaredfor,theygenerallybreak
downutterlyaftertwoorthreeyears.Onedelusionseemstobecomecommontothreefourthsof
themafteracertaintimeofimprisonment.Undertheimpressionthatthereissomethingdestructive
putintotheirfood'pourlesguerirdecrime'(saysM.Verdeil),theyrefusetoeat!"

ItwasattheBlindInstitution,however,ofwhichMr.Haldimandwasthepresidentandgreat
benefactor,thatDickens'sattentionwasmostdeeplyarrestedandthereweretwocasesinespecial
ofwhichthedetailmaybereadwithasmuchinterestnowaswhenmyfriend'sletterswerewritten,
andastowhichhisownsuggestionsopenupstillratherstartlingtrainsofthought.Thefirst,which
initsattractionforhimhefoundequaleventoLauraBridgman's,wasthatofayoungmanof18:
"borndeafanddumb,andstrickenblindbyanaccidentwhenhewasaboutfiveyearsold.The
Directoroftheinstitution,M.Hertzel,isayoungGermanofgreatability,andmostuncommonly
prepossessingappearance.HepropoundedtothescientificbodiesofGeneva,ayearago(whenthis
youngmanwasundereducationintheasylum),thepossibilityofteachinghimtospeakinother
words,toplaywithhistongueuponhisteethandpalateasifonaninstrument,andconnect
particularperformanceswithparticularwordsconveyedtohiminthefingerlanguage.They
unanimouslyagreedthatitwasquiteimpossible.TheGermansettowork,andtheyoungmannow
speaksveryplainlyanddistinctlywithouttheleastmodulation,ofcourse,butwithcomparatively
littlehesitationexpressingthewordsaloudastheyarestruck,sotospeak,uponhishandsand
showingthemostintenseandwonderfuldelightindoingit.Thisiscommonlyacquired,asyou
know,bythedeafanddumbwholearnbysight,butithasneverbeforebeenachievedinthecase
ofadeaf,dumb,andblindsubject.Heisanextremelylively,intelligent,goodhumouredfellow
anexcellentcarpenterafirstrateturnerandrunsaboutthebuildingwithacertaintyand
confidencewhichnoneofthemerelyblindpupilsacquire.Hehasagreatmanyideas,andan
instinctivedreadofdeath.HeknowsofGod,asofThoughtenthronedsomewhereandoncetold,
onnature'sprompting(thedevil'sofcourse),alie.Hewassittingatdinner,andtheDirectorasked
himwhetherhehadhadanythingtodrinktowhichheinstantlyreplied'No,'inorderthathemight
getsomemore,thoughhehadbeenservedinhisturn.Itwasexplainedtohimthatthiswasa
wrongthing,andwouldn'tdo,andthathewastobelockedupinaroomforitwhichwasdone.
Soonafterthis,hehadadreamofbeingbittenintheshoulderbysomestrangeanimal.Asitlefta
greatimpressiononhismind,hetoldM.theDirectorthathehadtoldanotherlieinthenight.In
proofofitherelatedhisdream,andadded,'itmustbealieyouknow,becausethereisnostrange
animalhere,andIneverwasbitten.'Beinginformedthatthissortofliewasaharmlessone,and
wascalledadream,heaskedwhetherdeadpeopleeverdreamedwhiletheywerelyinginthe
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ground.Heisoneofthemostcuriousandinterestingstudiespossible."

ThesecondcasehadcomeinontheverydaythatDickensvisitedtheplace."WhenIwasthere(8
July)therehadcomein,thatmorning,agirloftenyearsold,borndeafanddumbandblind,andso
perfectlyuntaughtthatshehasnotlearnttohavetheleastcontrolevenovertheperformanceofthe
commonnaturalfunctions....Andyetshelaughssometimes(goodGod!conceivewhatat!)and
isdreadfullysensitivefromheadtofoot,andverymuchalarmed,forsomehoursbeforethe
comingonofathunderstorm.Mr.Haldimandhasbeenlongtryingtoinduceherparentstosend
hertotheasylum.AtlasttheyhaveconsentedandwhenIsawher,someofthelittleblindgirls
weretryingtomakefriendswithher,andtoleadhergentlyabout.Shewasdressedinjustaloose
robefromthenecessityofchangingherfrequently,buthadbeeninabath,andhadhadhernails
cut(whichwerepreviouslyverylonganddirty),andwasnotatallilllookingquitethereverse
witharemarkablygoodandprettylittlemouth,butalowandundevelopedheadofcourse.Itwas
pointedouttome,asverysingular,thatthemomentsheisleftalone,orfreedfromanybody's
touch(whichisthesamethingtoher),sheinstantlycrouchesdownwithherhandsuptoherears,
inexactlythepositionofachildbeforeitsbirthandsoremains.Ithoughtthissuchastrange
coincidencewiththeutterwantofadvancementinhermoralbeing,thatitmadeagreatimpression
onmeandconningitoverandover,Ibegantothinkthatthisissurelytheinvariableactionof
savagestoo,andthatIhaveseenitoverandoveragaindescribedinbooksofvoyagesandtravels.
Nothavinganyofthesewithme,IturnedtoRobinsonCrusoeandIfindDeFoesays,describing
thesavageswhocameontheislandafterWillAtkinsbegantochangeforthebetterand
commandedunderthegraveSpaniardforthecommondefence,'theirposturewasgenerallysitting
upontheground,withtheirkneesuptowardstheirmouth,andtheheadputbetweenthetwohands,
leaningdownupontheknees'exactlythesameattitude!"Inhisnextweek'sletterhereported
further:"IhavenotbeentotheBlindAsylumagainyet,buttheytellmethatthedeafanddumb
andblindchild'sfaceisimprovingobviously,andthatshetakesgreatdelightinthefirsteffort
madebytheDirectortoconnecthimselfwithanoccupationofhertime.Hegivesher,everyday,
twosmoothroundpebblestorolloverandoverbetweenhertwohands.Sheappearstohavean
ideathatitistoleadtosomethingdistinctlyrecognizesthehandthatgivesthemtoher,asa
friendlyandprotectingoneandsitsforhoursquitebusy."

ToonepartofhisthoughtfulsuggestionIobjected,andwouldhaveattributedtoameredesirefor
warmth,inherasinthesavage,whathesupposedtobepartofanundevelopedorembryostate
explainingalsotheabsenceofsentientandmoralbeing.Tothishereplied(25July):"Idonot
thinkthatthereisreasonforsupposingthatthesavageattitudeoriginatesinthedesireofwarmth,
becauseallnakedsavagesinhabithotclimatesandtheirinstinctiveattitude,ifithadreferenceto
heatorcold,wouldprobablybethecoolestpossibleliketheirdelightinwater,andswimming.I
donotthinkthereisanyraceofsavagemen,howeverlowingrade,inhabitingcoldclimates,who
donotkillbeastsandweartheirskins.Thegirldecidedlyimprovesinface,and,ifonecanyetuse
thewordasappliedtoher,inmannertoo.Nocommunicationbythespeechoftouchhasyetbeen
establishedwithher,butthetimehasnotbeenlongenough."Inalaterletterhetellsme(24
August):"Thedeaf,dumb,andblindgirlisdecidedlyimproved,andverymuchimproved,inthis
shorttime.Nocommunicationisyetestablishedwithher,butthatisnottobeexpected.Theyhave
gotheroutofthatstrange,crouchingpositiondressedherneatlyandaccustomedhertohavea
pleasureinsociety.Shelaughsfrequently,andalsoclapsherhandsandjumpshaving,Godknows
how,someinwardsatisfaction.Ineversawamoretremendousthinginitsway,inmylife,than
whentheystoodher,t'otherday,inthecentreofagroupofblindchildrenwhosangachorustothe
pianoandbroughtherhand,andkeptitincontactwiththeinstrument.Ashudderpervadedher
wholebeing,herbreathquickened,hercolourdeepened,andIcancompareittonothingbut
returninganimationinapersonnearlydead.Itwasreallyawfultoseehowthesensationofthe
musicflutteredandstirredthelockedupsoulwithinher."Thesameletterspokeagainofthe
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youth:"Themalesubjectiswellandjollyaspossible.Heisveryfondofsmoking.Ihavearranged
tosupplyhimwithcigarsduringourstayheresoheandIareinamazingsympathy.Idon'tknow
whetherhethinksIgrowthem,ormakethem,orproducethembywinking,orwhat.Butitgives
himanotionthattheworldingeneralbelongstome."...BeforehiskindfriendleftLausannethe
poorfellowhadbeentaughttosay,"MonsieurDickensm'adonnelescigares,"andattheir
leavetakinghisgratitudewasexpressedbyincessantrepetitionofthesewordsforafullhalfhour.

CertainlybynomanwasgratitudemorepersistentlyearnedthanbyDickens,fromalltowhom
natureortheworldhadbeenchurlishorunfair.Nottothoseonlymadedesolatebypovertyorthe
temptationsincidenttoit,buttothosewhomnaturaldefectsorinfirmitieshadplacedata
disadvantagewiththeirkind,hegavehisfirstconsiderationhelpingthempersonallywherehe
could,sympathisingandsorrowingwiththemalways,butaboveallapplyinghimselftothe
investigationofsuchalleviationorcureasphilosophyorsciencemightbeabletoapplytotheir
condition.Thiswasadesiresoeagerasproperlytobecalledoneofthepassionsofhislife,visible
inhimtothelasthourofit.

Onlyacoupleofweeks,themselvesnotidleones,hadpassedoverhimatRosemontwhenhemade
adashatthebeginningofhisworkfromwhichindeedhehadonlybeendetainedsolongbythe
nonarrivalofaboxdespatchedfromLondonbeforehisowndeparture,containingnothisproper
writingmaterialsonly,butcertainquaintlittlebronzefiguresthatthusearlystooduponhisdesk,
andwereasmuchneededfortheeasyflowofhiswritingasblueinkorquillpens."Ihavenotbeen
idle(28June)sinceIhavebeenhere,thoughatfirstIwas'keptout'ofthebigboxasyouknow.I
hadagooddealtowriteforLordJohnabouttheRaggedSchools.Isettoworkanddidthat.A
gooddealforMissCoutts,inreferencetohercharitableprojects.Isettoworkanddidthat.Halfof
thechildren'sNewTestamenttowrite,orprettynearly.Isettoworkanddidthat.NextIcleared
offthegreaterpartofsuchcorrespondenceasIhadrashlypledgedmyselftoandthen....

BEGANDOMBEY!
Iperformedthisfeatyesterdayonlywrotethefirstslipbutthereitis,anditisaplungestraight
overheadandearsintothestory....Besidesallthis,Ihavereallygonewithgreatvigouratthe
French,whereIfindmyselfgreatlyassistedbytheItalianandamsubjecttotwodescriptionsof
mentalfitsinreferencetotheChristmasbook:one,ofthesuddenestandwildestenthusiasmone,
ofsolitaryandanxiousconsideration....Bytheway,asIwasunpackingthebigboxItookhold
ofabook,andsaidto'Them,''Now,whateverpassagemythumbrestson,Ishalltakeashaving
referencetomywork.'ItwasTRISTRAMSHANDY,andopenedatthesewords,'Whataworkit
islikelytoturnout!Letusbeginit!'"

Thesamelettertoldmethathestillinclinedstronglyto"thefieldofbattlenotion"forhis
Christmasvolume,butwasnotasyetadvancedinitbeingcuriousfirsttoseewhetheritscapacity
seemedtostrikemeatall.Myonlyobjectionwastohisadventureofopeningtwostoriesatonce,
ofwhichhedidnotyetseethefulldangerbutforthemomenttheChristmasfancywaslaidaside,
andnotresumed,exceptinpassingallusions,untilafterthecloseofAugust,whenthefirsttwo
numbersofDombeyweredone.Theintervalsuppliedfreshillustrationofhislifeinhisnewhome,
notwithoutmuchinterestandasIhaveshownwhatapleasantsocialcircle,"wonderfullyfriendly
andhospitable"tothelast,alreadyhadgroupeditselfroundhiminLausanne,andhowfullof
mattertobeheardandlearnedhefoundsuchinstitutionsasitsprisonandblindschool,thepicture
willreceiveattractivetouchesifIborrowfromhisletterswrittenduringthisoutsetofDombey
somefurthernoticesaswellofthegeneralprogressofhiswork,asofwhatwasspecially
interestingoramusingtohimatthetime,andofhowthecountryandthepeopleimpressedhim.In
allofthesecharacterwillbefoundstronglymarked.
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III
SWISSPEOPLEANDSCENERY
1846

Whatatoncehadstruckhimasthewonderfulfeatureinthemountainscenerywasits
everchangingandyetunchangingaspect.Itwasnevertwicelikethesamethingtohim.Shifting
andaltering,advancingandretreating,fiftytimesaday,itwasunalterableonlyinitsgrandeur.
Thelakeitselftoohadeverykindofvaryingbeautyforhim.Bymoonlightitwasindescribably
solemnandbeforethecomingonofastormhadastrangepropertyinitofbeingdisturbed,while
yettheskyremainedclearandtheeveningbright,whichhefoundtobeverymysteriousand
impressive.Suchastormhadcomeamonghisearliestandmostgratefulexperiencesadegreeof
heatworseeventhaninItaly,havingdisabledhimattheoutsetforallexertionuntilthelightning,
thunder,andrainarrived.Thelettertellingmethis(5July)describedthefruitassoabundantinthe
littlefarm,thatthetreesoftheorchardinfrontofhishousewerebendingbeneathitspokeofa
fieldofwheatslopingdowntothesidewindowofhisdiningroomasalreadycutandcarriedand
saidthattheroses,whichthehurricaneofrainhadsweptaway,werecomebacklovelierandin
greaternumbersthanever.

OftheordinarySwisspeopleheformedfromthefirstahighopinionwhicheverythingduringhis
stayamongthemconfirmed.Hethoughtitthegreatestinjusticetocallthem"theAmericansofthe
Continent."InhisfirstlettershesaidofthepeasantryallaboutLausannethattheywereaspleasant
apeopleasneedbe.Heneverpassed,onanyoftheroads,man,woman,orchild,withouta
salutationandanythingchurlishordisagreeablehenevernoticedinthem."Theyhavenot,"he
continued,"thesweetnessandgraceoftheItalians,ortheagreeablemannersofthebetter
specimensofFrenchpeasantry,buttheyareadmirablyeducated(theschoolsofthiscantonare
extraordinarilygood,ineverylittlevillage),andalwayspreparedtogiveacivilandpleasant
answer.Thereisnogreatermistake.Iwastalkingtomylandlordaboutittheotherday,andhesaid
hecouldnotconceivehowithadeverarisen,butthatwhenhereturnedfromhiseighteenyears'
serviceintheEnglishnavyheshunnedthepeople,andhadnointerestinthemuntiltheygradually
forcedtheirrealcharacteruponhisobservation.Wehaveacookandacoachmanhere,takenat
hazardfromthepeopleofthetownandIneversawmoreobligingservants,orpeoplewhodid
theirworksotrulywithawill.Andinpointofcleanliness,order,andpunctualitytothemoment,
theyareunrivalled...."

ThefirstgreatgatheringoftheSwisspeasantrywhichhesawwasinthethirdweekafterhis
arrival,whenacountryfetewasheldataplacecalledTheSignaladeepgreenwood,onthesides
andsummitofaveryhighhilloverlookingthetownandallthecountryroundandhegavemea
pleasantaccountofit."Therewerevariousboothsforeatinganddrinking,andthesellingof
trinketsandsweetmeatsandinoneplacetherewasagreatcirclecleared,inwhichthecommon
peoplewaltzedandpolka'd,withoutcessation,tothemusicofaband.Therewasagreat
roundaboutforchildren(ohmystarswhatafamilywereproprietorsofit!Asunburntfatherand
mother,ahumpbackedboy,agreatpoodledogpossessedofallsortsofaccomplishments,anda
youngmurdererofseventeenwhoturnedthemachinery)andthereweresomegamesofchance
andskillestablishedundertrees.Itwasverypretty.Insomeofthedrinkingboothstherewere
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partiesofGermanpeasants,twentytogetherperhaps,singingnationaldrinkingsongs,andmaking
amostexhilaratingandmusicalchorusbyrattlingtheircupsandglassesonthetableandclinking
themagainsteachother,toaregulartune.Youknowitasastagedodge,buttherealthingis
splendid.Fartherdownthehill,otherpeasantswererifleshootingforprizes,attargetssetonthe
othersideofadeepravine,fromtwotothreehundredyardsoff.Itwasquitefearfultoseethe
astonishingaccuracyoftheiraim,andhow,everytimearifleawakenedthetenthousandechoesof
thegreenglen,somemencrouchingbehindalittlewallimmediatelyinfrontofthetargets,sprung
upwithlargenumbersintheirhandsdenotingwheretheballhadstruckthebull'seyeandthenin
amomentdisappearedagain.StandinginaringneartheseshooterswasanotherpartyofGermans
singinghuntingsongs,inparts,mostmelodiously.AnddowninthedistancewasLausanne,with
allsortsofhauntedlookingoldtowersrisingupbeforethesmoothwaterofthelake,andan
eveningskyallred,andgold,andbrightgreen.Whenitclosedinquitedark,alltheboothswere
lightedupandthetwinklingofthelampsamongtheforestoftreeswasbeautiful...."Tothis
prettypicture,aletterofalittlelaterdate,describingamarriageonthefarm,addedfarthercomical
illustrationoftheriflefiringpropensitiesoftheSwiss,andhadotherwisealsowhimsicaltouches
ofcharacter."Oneofthefarmer'speopleasister,Ithinkwasmarriedfromheretheotherday.
Itiswonderfultoseehownaturallythesmallestgirlsareinterestedinmarriages.Kateyand
Mameywereasexcitedasiftheywereeighteen.ThefondnessoftheSwissforgunpowderon
interestingoccasions,isoneofthedrollestthings.Forthreedaysbefore,thefarmerhimself,inthe
midstofhisvariousagriculturalduties,plungedoutofalittledoornearmywindows,aboutonce
ineveryhour,andfiredoffarifle.Ithoughthewasshootingratswhowerespoilingthevinesbut
hewasmerelyrelievinghismind,itseemed,onthesubjectoftheapproachingnuptials.Allnight
afterwards,heandasmallcircleoffriendskeptperpetuallylettingoffgunsunderthecasementof
thebridalchamber.ABrideisalwaysdresthere,inblacksilkbutthisbrideworemerinoofthat
colour,observingtohermotherwhensheboughtit(theoldladyis82,andworksonthefarm),
'Youknow,mother,Iamsuretowantmourningforyou,soonandthesamegownwilldo.'"

Meanwhile,daybyday,hewassteadilymovingonwithhisfirstnumberfeelingsometimesthe
wantofstreetsinan"extraordinarynervousnessitwouldbehardlypossibletodescribe,"that
wouldcomeuponhimafterhehadbeenwritingalldaybutatallothertimesfindingthereposeof
theplaceveryfavourabletoindustry."Iamwritingslowlyatfirst,ofcourse"(5July),"butIhopeI
shallhavefinishedthefirstnumberinthecourseofafortnightatfarthest.Ihavedonethefirst
chapter,andbegunanother.Isaynothingofthemeritsthusfar,oroftheideabeyondwhatis
knowntoyoubecauseIpreferthatyoushouldcomeasfreshasmaybeuponthem.Ishall
certainlyhaveagreatsurpriseforpeopleattheendofthefourthnumber,andIthinkthereisanew
andpeculiarsortofinterest,involvingthenecessityofalittlebitofdelicatetreatmentwhereofI
willexpoundmyideatoyoubyandby.WhenIhavedonethisnumber,Imaytakearunto
Chamounixperhaps....MythoughtshavenecessarilybeencalledawayfromtheChristmasbook.
ThefirstDombeydone,IthinkIshouldflyofftothat,whenevertheideapresenteditselfvividly
beforeme.IstillcherishtheBattlefancy,thoughitisnothingbutafancyasyet."Aweeklaterhe
toldmethathehopedtofinishthefirstnumberbythatdayweekorthereabouts,whenheshould
thenrunandlookforhisChristmasbookintheglaciersatChamounix.Hisprogresstothispoint
hadbeenpleasinghim."IthinkDombeyverystrongwithgreatcapacityinitsleadingidea
plentyofcharacterthatislikelytotellandsomerollickingfacetiousness,tosaynothingofpathos.
Ihopeyouwillsoonjudgeofitforyourself,howeverandIknowyouwillsaywhatyouthink.I
havebeenveryconstantlyatwork."SixdayslaterIheardthathehadstilleightslipstowrite,and
foraweekhadputoffChamounix.

Butthoughthefourthchapteryetwasincomplete,hecouldrepressnolongerthedesiretowriteto
meofwhathewasdoing(18July)."IthinkthegeneralideaofDombeyisinterestingandnewand
hasgreatmaterialinit.ButIdon'tliketodiscussitwithyoutillyouhavereadnumberoneforfear
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Ishouldspoilitseffect.WhendoneaboutWednesdayorThursdaypleaseGodIwillsenditin
twodays'posts,sevenletterseachday.Ifyouhaveitsetatonce(Iamafraidyoucouldn'treadit
otherwisethaninprint)IknowyouwillimpressonB.&E.thenecessityoftheclosestsecrecy.
Theverynamegettingout,wouldberuinous.Thepointsforillustration,andtheenormouscare
required,makemeexcessivelyanxious.ThemanforDombey,ifBrownecouldseehim,theclass
mantoaT,isSirAE,ofD's.GreatpainswillbenecessarywithMissTox.TheToodle
Familyshouldnotbetoomuchcaricatured,becauseofPolly.IshouldlikeBrownetothinkof
SusanNipper,whowillnotbewantedinthefirstnumber.Afterthesecondnumber,theywillall
benineortenyearsolderbutthiswillnotinvolvemuchchangeinthecharacters,exceptinthe
childrenandMissNipper.Whatabrilliantthingtobetellingyouallthesenamessofamiliarly,
whenyouknownothingabout'em!Iquiteenjoyit.Bythebye,Ihopeyoumaylikethe
introductionofSolomonGills.Ithinkhelivesinagoodsortofhouse....Onewordmore.What
doyouthink,asanamefortheChristmasbook,ofTheBattleOfLife?ItisnotanameIhave
connedatall,buthasjustoccurredtomeinconnectionwiththatfoggyidea.IfIcanseemyway,I
thinkIwilltakeitnext,andclearitoff.Ifyouknewhowithangsaboutme,Iamsureyouwould
saysotoo.Itwouldbeanimmenserelieftohaveitdone,andnothingstandinginthewayof
Dombey."

Withinthetimeleftforittheopeningnumberwasdone,buttwolittleincidentsprecededstillthe
triptoChamounix.ThefirstwasavisitfromHallamtoMr.Haldimand."Heavens!howHallam
didtalkyesterday!Idon'tthinkIeversawhimsotremendous.Verygoodnaturedandpleasant,in
hisway,butGoodHeavens!howhedidtalk.ThatfamousdayyouandIrememberwasnothingto
it.Hissonwaswithhim,andhisdaughter(whohasanimpedimentinherspeech,asifnaturewere
determinedtobalancethatfacultyinthefamily),andhisniece,aprettywoman,thewifeofa
clergymanandafriendofThackeray's.Itstrikesmethatshemustbe'thelittlewoman'heproposed
totakeustodrinkteawith,once,inGoldensquare.Don'tyouremember?Hisgreatfavourite?She
isquiteacharmingpersonanyhow."Ihopetobepardonedforpreservinganopinionwhichmore
familiarlateracquaintanceconfirmed,andwhichcanhardlynowgiveanythingbutpleasuretothe
ladyofwhomitisexpressed.Tothesecondincidenthealludesmorebriefly."AsHaldimandand
Mrs.MarcetandtheCerjatshaddevisedasmallmountainexpeditionforusfortomorrow,Ididn't
liketoallowChamounixtostandintheway.Sowegowiththemfirst,andstartonourown
accountonTuesday.Weareextremelypleasantwiththesepeople."Thecloseofthesameletter
(25July),mentioningtwopiecesoflocalnews,givesintimationofthedangersincidenttoall
Swisstravelling,andofsuchspecialprecautionsaswerenecessaryfortheholidayamongthe
mountainshewasnowabouttotake."Myfirstnewsisthatacrocodileissaidtohaveescaped
fromtheZoologicalgardensatGeneva,andtobenow'zigzagzigging'aboutthelake.ButIcan't
makeoutwhetherthisisagreatfact,orwhetheritisapiousfraudtopreventtoomuchbathingand
liabilitytoaccidents.Theotherpieceofnewsismoreserious.AnEnglishfamilywhosenameI
don'tknow,consistingofafather,mother,anddaughter,arrivedattheHtelGibbonherelast
Monday,andstartedoffonsomemountainexpeditioninoneofthecarriagesofthecountry.Itwas
ameretrack,theroad,andoughttohavebeentravelledonlybymules,buttheEnglishman
persisted(asEnglishmendo)ingoingoninthecarriageandinanswertoalltherepresentationsof
thedriverthatnocarriagehadevergoneupthere,saidheneedn'tbeafraidhewasn'tgoingtobe
paidforit,andsoforth.Accordingly,thecoachmangotdownandwalkedbythehorses'heads.It
wasfieryhotand,aftermuchtuggingandrearing,thehorsesbegantoback,andwentdown
bodily,carriageandall,intoadeepravine.Themotherwaskilledonthespotandthefatherand
daughterarelyingatsomehousehardby,notexpectedtorecover."

Hisnextletter(writtenonthesecondofAugust)describedhisownfirstrealexperienceof
mountaintravel."Ibeginmylettertonight,butonlybegin,forwereturnedfromChamounixin
timefordinnerjustnow,andareprettyconsiderablydoneup.Wewentbyamountainpassnot
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oftencrossedbyladies,calledtheColdeBalme,whereyourimaginationmaypictureKateand
Georgyonmulesfortenhoursatastretchridingupanddownthemostfrightfulprecipices.We
returnedbythepassoftheTeteNoire,whichTalfourdknows,andwhichisofadifferent
character,butastonishinglyfinetoo.MontBlanc,andtheValleyofChamounix,andtheMerde
Glace,andallthewondersofthatmostwonderfulplace,areaboveandbeyondone'swildest
expectations.Icannotimagineanythinginnaturemorestupendousorsublime.IfIweretowrite
aboutitnow,Ishouldquiteravesuchprodigiousimpressionsarerampantwithinme....You
maysupposethatthemuletravellingisprettyprimitive.Eachpersontakesacarpetbagstrapped
onthemulebehindhimselforherself:andthatisallthebaggagethatcanbecarried.Aguide,a
thoroughbredmountaineer,walksalltheway,leadingthelady'smuleIsaythelady'spar
excellence,incomplimenttoKateandallthereststruggleonastheyplease.Thecavalcadestops
atalonehutforanhourandahalfinthemiddleoftheday,andlunchesbrilliantlyonwhateverit
canget.GoingbythatColdeBalmepass,youclimbupandupforfivehoursandmore,andlook
fromamereunguardedledgeofpathonthesideoftheprecipiceintosuchawfulvalleys,that
atlastyouarefirminthebeliefthatyouhavegotaboveeverythingintheworld,andthattherecan
benothingearthlyoverhead.Justasyouarriveatthisconclusion,adifferent(andohHeaven!what
afreeandwonderful)aircomesblowingonyourfaceyoucrossaridgeofsnowandlyingbefore
you(whollyunseentillthen),toweringupintothedistantsky,isthevastrangeofMontBlanc,
withattendantmountainsdiminishedbyitsmajesticsideintomeredwarfstaperingupinto
innumerablerudeGothicpinnaclesdesertsoficeandsnowforestsoffirsonmountainsides,of
noaccountatallintheenormousscenevillagesdowninthehollow,thatyoucanshutoutwitha
fingerwaterfalls,avalanches,pyramidsandtowersofice,torrents,bridgesmountainupon
mountainuntiltheveryskyisblockedaway,andyoumustlookup,overhead,toseeit.GoodGod,
whatacountrySwitzerlandis,andwhataconcentrationofitistobebeheldfromthatonespot!
And(thinkofthisinWhitefriarsandinLincoln'sinn!)atnoonontheseconddayfromhere,the
firstdaybeingbuthalfaonebythebye,andfullofuncommonbeauty,youliedownonthatridge
andseeitall!....IthinkImustgobackagain(whetheryoucomeornot!)andseeitagainbefore
thebadweatherarrives.Wehavehadsunlight,moonlight,aperfectlytransparentatmospherewith
notacloud,andthegrandplateauontheverysummitofMontBlancsoclearbydayandnightthat
itwasdifficulttobelieveininterveningchasmsandprecipices,andalmostimpossibletoresistthe
ideathatonemightsallyforthandclimbupeasily.Iwentintoallsortsofplacesarmedwitha
greatpolewithaspikeattheendofit,likealeapingpole,andwithpointedironsbuckledontomy
shoesandamallbutknockedup.Iwasveryanxioustomaketheexpeditiontowhatiscalled'The
Garden:'agreenspotcoveredwithwildflowers,lyingacrosstheMerdeGlace,andamongthe
mostawfulmountains:butIcouldfindnoEnglishmanatthehotelswhowassimilarlydisposed,
andtheBravewouldn'tgo.Nosir!Hegaveinpointblank(havingbeenhorriblyblownina
climbingexcursionthedaybefore),andcouldn'tstandit.Heistooheavyforsuchwork,
unquestionably.Inallotherrespects,Ithinkhehasexceededhimselfonthisjourney:andifyou
couldhaveseenhimridingaverysmallmuleuparoadexactlylikethebrokenstairsofRochester
castle,withabrandybottleslungoverhisshoulder,asmallpieinhishat,aroastfowllookingout
ofhispocket,andamountainstaffofsixfeetlongcarriedcrosswiseonthesaddlebeforehim,
you'dhavesaidso.Hewas(nexttome)theadmirationofChamounix,butheutterlyquenchedme
ontheroad."

Ontheroadastheyreturnedtherehadbeenasmalladventure,thedaybeforethisletterwas
written.DickenswasjinglingslowlyuptheTteNoirepass(hismulehavingthirtysevenbellson
itshead),ridingatthemomentquitealone,when"anEnglishmancameboltingoutofalittle
chaletinamostinaccessibleandextraordinaryplace,andsaidwithgreatglee'Therehasbeenan
accidenthere,sir!'Ihadbeenthinkingofanythingelseyouplease!and,havingnoreasonto
supposehimanEnglishmanexcepthislanguage,whichwentfornothingintheconfusion,
stammeredoutareplyinFrenchandstaredathim,inaverydampshirtandtrowsers,ashestared
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atmeinasimilarcostume.Onhisrepeatingtheannouncement,Ibegantohaveaglimmeringof
commonsenseandsoarrivedataknowledgeofthefactthataGermanladyhadbeenthrownfrom
hermuleandhadbrokenherleg,atashortdistanceoff,andhadfoundherwayingreatpaintothat
cottage,wheretheEnglishman,aPrussian,andaFrenchman,hadpresentlycomeupandthe
Frenchman,byextraordinarygoodfortune,wasasurgeon!TheywereallfromChamounix,andthe
threelatterwerewalkingincompany.Itwasquitecharmingtoseehowattentivetheywere.The
ladywasfromLausannewereshehadcomefromFrankforttomakeexcursionswithhertwo
boys,whoareatthecollegehere,duringthevacation.Shehadnootherattendants,andtheboys
werecryingandveryfrightened.TheEnglishmanwasinthefullgleeofhavingjustcutupone
whitedress,twochemises,andthreepockethandkerchiefs,forbandagestheFrenchmanhadset
theleg,skilfullythePrussianhadscouredaneighbouringwoodforsomementocarryher
forwardandtheywereallatitbehindthehut,makingasortofhandbarrowonwhichtobearher.
Whenitwasconstructed,shewasstrappeduponithadherpoorheadcoveredoverwitha
handkerchief,andwascarriedawayandweallwentonincompany:KateandGeorgyconsoling
andtendingthesufferer,whowasverycheerful,buthadlostherhusbandonlyayear."Withthe
samedelightfulobservation,andmissingnotouchofkindlycharacterthatmightgiveeachactor
hisplaceinthelittlescene,thesequelisdescribedbutitdoesnotneedtoaddmore.Itwashoped
thatbymeansofrelaysofmenatMartignythepoorladymighthavebeencarriedonsometwenty
miles,inthecoolerevening,totheheadofthelake,andsohavebeengotintothesteamerbutshe
wastooexhaustedtobebornebeyondtheinn,andthereshehadtoremainuntiljoinedbyrelatives
fromFrankfort.

Afewdays'restafterhisreturnwereinterposed,beforehebeganhissecondnumberanduntilthe
latterhadbeencompleted,andtheChristmasstorytakeninhand,Idonotadmitthereadertohis
fullconfidenceabouthiswriting.Buttherewereothersubjectsthatamusedandengagedhimupto
thatdate,aswellwhenhewasidleaswhenagainhewasatwork,towhichexpressionsofullof
characterisgiveninhislettersthattheyproperlyfindmentionhere.

EarlyinAugusthevisitedChillon,whentheaspectofthelake,fiveminutesaftersunset,theskyat
thetimebeingcoveredwithsullenblackcloudsreflectedinthedeepwater,muchimpressedhim.
TheCastleitselfhethoughtthebestdeservingandleastexaggeratedinitsrepute,ofalltheplaces
hehadseen."Theinsupportablesolitudeanddrearinessofthewhitewallsandtowersthesluggish
moatanddrawbridge,andthelonelyramparts,Ineversawthelikeof.Butthereisacourtyard
insidesurroundedbyprisons,oubliettes,andoldchambersoftorturesoterrificallysad,thatdeath
itselfisnotmoresorrowful.Andoh!awickedoldGrandDuke'sbedchamberupstairsinthetower,
withasecretstaircasedownintothechapelwherethebatswerewheelingaboutandBonnivard's
dungeonandahorribletrapwhenceprisonerswerecastoutintothelakeandastakeallburntand
crackledup,thatstillstandsinthetortureantechambertothesaloonofjustice(!)what
tremendousplaces!GoodGod,thegreatestmysteryinalltheearth,tome,ishoworwhytheworld
wastoleratedbyitsCreatorthroughthegoodoldtimes,andwasn'tdashedtofragments."

On9AugusthewrotetomethattherewastobeaprodigiousftethatdayinLausanne,inhonour
ofthefirstanniversaryoftheproclamationoftheNewConstitution"beginningatsunrisewiththe
firingofgreatguns,andtwicetwothousandroundsofriflesbytwothousandmenproceedingat
eleveno'clockwithagreatservice,andsomespeechifying,inthechurchandendingtonightwith
agreatballinthepublicpromenade,andageneralilluminationofthetown."Theauthoritieshad
invitedhimtoaplaceofhonourintheceremonyandthoughhedidnotgo("havingbeenuptill
threeo'clockinthemorning,andbeingfastasleepattheappointedtime"),thereplythatsenthis
thanksexpressedalsohissympathy.Hewasthereadierwiththisfromhavingdiscovered,inthe
"old"or"gentlemanly"partyoftheplace("includingofcoursethesprinklingofEnglishwhowere
alwaystory,hang'em!"),sowonderfullysoreafeelingabouttherevolutionthuscelebrated,thatto
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avoiditsftethemajorityhadgoneoffbysteamerthedaybefore,andthosewhoremainedwere
prophesyingassaultsontheunilluminatedhouses,andotherexcesses.Dickenshadnofaithinsuch
predictions."Thepeopleareasperfectlygoodtemperedandquietalways,aspeoplecanbe.Idon't
knowwhatthelastGovernmentmayhavebeen,buttheyseemtometodoverywellwiththis,and
toberationallyandcheaplyprovidedfor.Ifyoubelievewhatthediscontentedassertyouwouldn't
believeinonesolitarymanorwomanwithagrainofgoodnessorcivility.Ifindnothing
butcivilityandIwalkaboutinallsortsofoutofthewayplaces,wheretheyliveroughlives
enoughinsolitarycottages."Theissuewastoldintwopostscriptstohisletterandshowedhimto
besofarright."P.S.6o'clockafternoon.Theftegoingon,ingreatforce.Notoneof'theold
party'tobeseen.Iwentdownwithonetothegroundbeforedinner,andnothingwouldinducehim
togowithinthebarrierwithme.Yetwhattheycallarevolutionwasnothingbutachangeof
government.Thirtysixthousandpeople,inthissmallcanton,petitionedagainsttheJesuitsGod
knowswithgoodreason.TheGovernmentchosetocallthema'mob.'So,toprovethattheywere
not,theyturnedtheGovernmentout.Ihonourthemforit.Theyareagenuinepeople,theseSwiss.
Thereisbettermetalinthemthaninallthestarsandstripesofallthefustianbannersoftheso
called,andfalselycalled,UnitedStates.TheyareathorninthesidesofEuropeandespots,anda
goodwholesomepeopletolivenearJesuitriddenKingsonthebrightersideofthemountains."
"P.P.S.August10th....TheftewentoffasquietlyasIsupposeditwouldandtheydancedall
night."

Theseviewshadforcibleillustrationinasubsequentletter,wherehedescribesasimilarrevolution
thatoccurredatGenevabeforeheleftthecountryandnothingcouldbettershowhispractical
goodsenseinamatterofthiskind.ThedescriptionwillbegivenshortlyandmeanwhileIsubjoin
acommentmadebyhim,notlessworthyofattention,uponmyreplytohisaccountoftheanti
JesuitcelebrationatLausanne."Idon'tknowwhetherIhavementionedbefore,thatinthevalleyof
theSimplonhardbyhere,where(atthebridgeofSt.Maurice,overtheRhone)thisProtestant
cantonendsandaCatholiccantonbegins,youmightseparatetwoperfectlydistinctanddifferent
conditionsofhumanitybydrawingalinewithyourstickinthedustontheground.Onthe
Protestantside,neatnesscheerfulnessindustryeducationcontinualaspiration,atleast,after
betterthings.OntheCatholicside,dirt,disease,ignorance,squalor,andmisery.Ihaveso
constantlyobservedthelikeofthis,sinceIfirstcameabroad,thatIhaveasadmisgivingthatthe
religionofIrelandliesasdeepattherootofallitssorrows,evenasEnglishmisgovernmentand
Toryvillany."Almostthecounterpartofthisremarkistobefoundinoneofthelaterwritingsof
Macaulay.

IV
SKETCHESCHIEFLYPERSONAL
1846

Somesketchesfromthelifeinhispleasantestveinnowclaimtobetakenfromthesameseriesof
lettersandIwillprefixoneortwolessimportantnotices,forthemostpartpersonalalso,thathave
characteristicmentionofhisopinionsinthem.

Homepoliticshecriticized,inwhathewroteon24August,muchinthespiritofhislastexcellent
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10/6/2015 JohnForster,"TheLifeofCharlesDickens"(5)

remarkontheProtestantandCatholiccantonshavingnosympathywiththecoursetakenbythe
whigsinregardtoIrelandaftertheyhaddefeatedPeelonhiscoercionbillandresumedthe
government."Iamperfectlyappalledbythehesitationandcowardiceofthewhigs.Tobringinthat
armsbill,bearthebruntoftheattackuponit,takeouttheobnoxiousclauses,stillretainthebill,
andfinallywithdrawit,seemstomethemeanestandmosth

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