deni

m washing process
PROJECT REPORT _______________________________________________________________________________________________________

PRESTON UNIVERSITY2

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

First of all we thank Almighty Allah who brought this moment in our life when we came in US DENIM for the
project. It has been a great experience to work with all of you and we are feeling proud that we can say we
have worked in US DENIM which is not only one of the best DENIM manufacturer & Exporters in Pakistan
but also all over the world and where the management and the workers have demonstrated a very good
performance in all areas of the business.

US DENIM is a dynamic organization with professionals loving and professionals making setup. As it is said
“Time Spent in Training is time Well-spent”. The golden time, which we spend here and the practical,
conceptual and industry- related knowledge, which we gained here will be a milestone in our professional
carrier.

We would like to thanks

US DENIM MANAGEMENT
Mr. Asif (HR Manager US Denim)
Mr. Haroon (Admin)
Mr. Bilal Tariq (Production Manager)
Mr. Faisal (MT)

US APPAREL MANAGEMENT
Mr. khurram (HR Manager US Apparel)
Mr. Hanif Khan

We are grateful to our class advisor Mr. KASHIF MUNIR for arranging this project.

We always remember the hospitality we received during our stay at the US DENIM. We are privileged to work
with experienced personnel, who are the master of their skill and field. Their ever supporting behavior, kind
advice, and professional approach taught us how to perform tough and critical tasks with utmost ease.

We have very much enjoyed being amongst wonderful people. We wish each and every one everlasting
progress, success and of course wish US DENIM a very prosperous future.
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PRESTON UNIVERSITY3

T
ABL
E
OF
C
ONT
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Contents
_________________________________________________________________________________________
 U S Denim Introduction . . . . . .. . . . . . ..….. . .…………..….. .. ... . . . . . . . . . . . .5
 History Of Denim. . . . . .. . ………… . . .… …… ….. .. . . . . . . . . . . . . ………... . .6



 Types Of Denim…………………………………………………………….10 

Introduction of Cotton………………..……………………... . . . . . ………….…….13  Yarn

Manufacturing…………………..…………………..…. . . . . . …………….....14  W

arping……………………………… ..……………… . .… ….. . . . . . …………… .. .. 16

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 Warping in U S Denim……………………………………………………...19
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 Warping Plan………………………………………………………………...22
 Dye in g………………………………… .…………… ..… … .…. . . . . . … … ……....... 2 4
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 Sulphur Dye………………………………………………………………….25
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 Vat Dye……………………………..…….………………….....……...........30
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 Denim Dyeing……………………..…….……………………...….……......33
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 Rope Dyeing……………………..………….…………………...……….....38
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  Dyeing in U S Denim………………………………………………………..44  Rebeam

ing…………………………………. ..……………….. . . . . …… . ……… . .. 46  Siz

ing……………………………………………….………….. . . . . … … …… . …. .. 47  Weaver’s

Beam……………………………...……………….. . . . . ……….……...48  W eaving……………….

…………………… .. .… …… . ……. . . . . . … .……………. . 49

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 Air-Jet Weaving…………………..…………….…. . . . . . …….…..….....51
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 Weaving in U S Denim…………………..………. . . . . . ……..…..….....54
 Finis hing……………………………. … …. …… …. .…………. …. . . . . . … ……...... 56
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 Sin g e in g………………………………… .. …… .…................... …. … …..... 5 8
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 Me r c e r iz in g…………………………… ..…………. ..………… .… .… … …. . 6 2
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 St ent er………………………………… ..……………………………. .…..... 64
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 Sanf or izing………………………………………………………………… .. . 65 

Inspection Department……………………..…………………….. . . . . …….…...68  Pac k

ing……………………………………. .………………. … …. . . . . . ……. . …. .. 70  Fault

s……………………………….……………………….………… . .. . . … ….... 7

PROJECT REPORT _______________________________________________________________________________________________________

PRESTON UNIVERSITY4
Contents
______________________________________________________________________________________________

 U S Apparel Introduction……………….………………………………………….……73  Store

Room……………………………….……………………………………….……..75  Cutting

Department……………………….……………………………………………..76  Embroidery
Department………………….……………………………………………..79  Stitching

Department………………….………………………………………………...80

 Types of Stitch…………………………………………….…….………………83
 He m s……………………………………………………… ..…………………… 90

Wet processing……………….….…………………………………………………….93

 Chemicals On Denim…………………………………………………….98  Denim

Washing. . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . .. . . . . . . ……110  Mechanical Washes. . . . . .. . ...... . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . ………….111  Chemical Washes. . . . . .. . . …………. ………. . . . . . . .. . …....

……...…119

 New Development in Denim Washes. ……….... . . . . . . .... . . . . . . …….129

 Trimming…………………………..…………………………………………………….132  But t

oning…………………………. .……………………………………………………. 133  Pr es s

ing…………………………. .…………………………………………………… .. 136  Finis

hing…………………………. .…………………………………………………… .. 137  Pac k

ing…………………… . .…………………………………………………………… 138  Glossary Of

Denim……………………………………………………………………..139
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PRESTON UNIVERSITY7
HISTROY OF DENIM:

In fashion history, jeans and denim history continues to baffle. No one truly knows the perfect answer to
where jeans began. As so often happens fashions often emerge together in various parts of the world and are
the result of the sudden availability of a new fabric, cloth, dye or technique.

But we do know that the phrase denim jeans are thought to derive from several sources. No one is totally
certain where the words come from. A majority of source books suggest that denim derives from the English
translation of the South of France French phrase 'serge de Nîmes'. Denim fashion history is thus associated
with Serge de Nimes.

It may well be that the fabric which was made in France also had a version made locally in England and was
called by the same name of denim in the same way that Cheddar cheese is called cheddar all over the world.
The Serge de Nîmes was originally a wool silk mix, twill weave. Certainly by the 19 century in England th

denim had a white warp and a navy woof (weft). Denim was considered a hard wearing sturdy fabric, ideal for
heavy laboring.
When talking about denim the name Levi´ s is one of the first to be mentioned. Levi´ s
which stands for Levi Strauss is normally called the forefather of jeans.

When tracing back the history of these trousers to its origins it is true that Levi Strauss played an important
role concerning their development and distribution but he had also other inventive business partners. Now the
question is: who has sewn the first jeans and where does the history of this „blue phenomenon” begin?

Levi Strauss in the year 1860 In 1847, at the age of 17 Levi Strauss left his Frankonian native country in
Germany and emigrated to New York together with his family. The members of the Strauss family were
capable and skilful businessmen and ran a pedlary at that time. So Levi and his brother followed their parents´
footsteps and also became peddlers. When his great gold rush began in 1850, however, he decided to take part
and sent over to San Francisco

in California. He took with him a spade, a pick hammer and a bale of fabric out of brown sail cloth which was
meant to put up a tent. This did not happen, however: Levi found out that the gold diggers´ hard work in the
mines made their clothes get worn out very quickly and he produced stout working trousers out of the sail cloth
he had taken with him which

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PRESTON UNIVERSITY8

he called „half overalls“. When he continued producing these trousers he used cheap cotton fabrics coming
from Genova. At that time Genova was a flourishing place where cotton was exported all over the world. The
name of the town of Genova was modified into „jeans” in the American slang. At the end of the sixties of the
19th century he replaced the brown sail cloth by an indigo-dyed, wear resistant cotton fabric coming from
France.

The name of this fabric was „Serge de Nimes“. Serge is the French Expression for combined twill and Nimes
is the French town where the fabric comes from. The fabric´s name Serge de Nimes was quickly turned into
„Denim“in American colloquial language. By applying this indigo-dyed combined twill the first jeans out of
Denim was almost born - or better sewn. The only thing missing were the famous metallic vets. The
application of metal rivets for jeans is due to the Polish emigrant Jacob W. Davis, also called Jacob Youphes.
Although the working trousers out of Denim were stout they had a tendency to get worn out where the pockets
were. Jacob Youphes mended the trousers with a needle and thread. One day a customer inspired him to repair
the torn off pockets with the help of rivets. From then on Jacob Youphes made a lot of money out of repairing
trousers. Since he was worried that his invention might be stolen he wanted to apply for a patent.

For doing so, however, he needed a financially strong partner. For that reason he addressed the manufacturer
of the trousers that he mended, Mr. Levi Strauss. Levi Strauss agreed and together they applied for a patent to
strengthen the pockets of the trousers and Levi Strauss acquired a share of 50%. This patent was written down
in 1873 and can thus be called the true year of birth. Under the management of Levi Strauss the jeans were
now produced in series. Since the trousers were so stout not only the gold diggers liked them but which is not
surprising in America?
The cowboys appreciated them very much, too. When the trousers were applied as working trousers for
cowboys, however they got worn out at the crotch tip. This was no problem for Levi Strauss and Co. since they
reinforced the trousers again with metal rivets at the crossing point of the four seams at the crotch tip. The
metal rivet at the crotch had to be removed quickly since the way of living of the cowboys had not been taken
into consideration. The cowboys used to repair their meals at the campfire and then they spent the rest of the
evening sitting round the campfire. When the cowboy approached the fire too much at night, however he
quickly learned the difference between the physical conductivity of cotton and metal.

Those wearing these trousers were then suddenly startled out of their sleep. By knowing very well the need for
such a stout garment and thanks to the good cooperation with Jacob Youphes as well as his very good instinct
for marketing Levi Strauss is still an important brand name in today’s textile industry. About 1947 denim made
a break-away from work clothing image, chiefly in the area of sportswear and rainwear and an occasional
appearance in high fashion collections as a "different-looking" evening dress. Jeans fashion history was truly
made in the 1950s when film stars wore it in movies that the teenagers of the day followed with avid interest.
For many years jeans were only used as work wear clothes, but by the 1940s they were considered leisure wear
in America. Once pop and film stars like Elvis Presley, James Dean, and Marlon Brando sported them they
became desirable internationally in the 1950s and are associated with rock and roll and pop music. Later in the
1960s, jean brands old and new were worn universally in the

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PRESTON UNIVERSITY9

western world. 1970 American youth adopted denim as their favorite fabric. Part of a "back to nature"
movement that emphasized ecology and the natural denim being a fabric created from a natural fiber was a
primary factor. Since 1960 the jeans business has undergone an explosive transformation, from a source of
tough, cheap clothing for cowboys, blue-collar workers and penniless youth into a fashion conscious market
for a widening mass of people of almost all ages.

Substantial growth in overseas sales of American jeans and denim. Exports of American- made blue jeans
grew. Overseas manufacturers of jeans also grew. Production of indigo dyed denim started in Europe on an
industrial level in 1972. Spreading of jeans fashions in the 1970’s and doubling of denim capacity in U.S.led to
the onslaught of imports. From 1976 to 1979 U.S. imports of denim into Europe enjoyed penetration levels
between 33% and 42%. European textile industry saw in denim, an opportunity to restructure itself into a more
capital intensive high technology industry, thus becoming more competitive against imports from lower-cost
countries. From 1972 to 1976 capacities grew from approximately 20 million square meters to 130 million. All
mills were basically running at capacity. It was a period of worldwide shortage of denim when demand was
substantially greater than capacity. The 1976/7 fashion element subsided in Europe and U.S. Return to
specialist jean manufacturer producing basic jeans, with relative little fashion styling. The introduction of
"baggy" jeans – originated in Italy where previous shortage led to youth wearing any size jeans available.
Since 1978 specialized denim manufacturers re established positions mainly in terms of quality.

Indigo denim first produced at Yarraville during 1965 on a narrow width Slasher dyeing machine designed and
built on the area. This dyeing method has now been entirely replaced by the commissioning of the Morrison
Rope Dyeing Machine on July 4th, 1980. Dyeing capacity 15 to 16,000,000 square meters of denim per annum
are possible on this new Morrison dyeing Machine. By the 1980s ripped, frayed and torn jeans were a normal
sight. Colored jeans from white through to pastels were also popular as were stonewashed blue jeans. In the
80s, designer jeans with names like Gloria Vanderbilt, Calvin Klein and Armani among so many fashion
designers became the designer label jeans to be seen in. Stone washed jeans became a must.

By the 1990s black jeans were very popular for a while and jeans in general were seen a lot in the early 1990s.
But shades of blue are always loved and sometimes the darkest shade is high fashion and sometimes the most
washed out faded pairs become the hottest. Colored jeans of all shades made an appearance.

In 2000 designers were crystal beading and silver or gold spraying jeans amid tears, frayed slashes, and fur and
feather decoration. Denim was hot yet again and used to make everything from footwear, jackets, bags, basque
corsets to jeweled cuffs.
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PRESTON UNIVERSITY
10
TYPES OF DENIM

While the original denim was a 100% cotton serge material, you can now get it in a variety of materials,
including blends that give you the same wonderful look of 100% cotton denim with some great additional
features. Denim’s unique look comes from the rich indigo blue in one shade or another woven together with
white threads to give the “depth” that people associate with denim. Today, some denims no longer have indigo,
but other colors with the white opposing threads, producing denims in a rainbow of shades.

Dry denim

Dry or raw denim, as opposed to washed denim, is a denim fabric that is not washed after being dyed during its
production. Most denim is washed after being crafted into an article of clothing in order to make it softer and to
eliminate any shrinkage which could cause an item to not fit after the owner washes it. In addition to being washed,
non-dry denim is sometimes artificially "distressed" to achieve a worn-in look. Much of the appeal of dry denim lies
in the fact that with time the fabric will fade in a manner similar to factory distressed denim. With dry denim,
however, such fading is affected by the body of the person who wears the jeans and the activities of their daily life.
This creates what many enthusiasts feel to be a more natural, unique look than pre-distressed denim. To facilitate the
natural distressing process, some wearers of dry denim will often abstain from washing their jeans for more than six
months,[3]

though it is not a necessity for fading. Predominantly found in premium denim lines, dry denim
represents a small niche in the overall market

dry denim can be identified by its lack wash, or “fade”.it tipically start out as the dark blue color
picture here.

Selvage denim (also called selvedge denim) is a type of denim which forms a clean natural edge that
does not unravel. It is commonly presented in the unwashed or raw state. Typically, the selvage
edges will be located along the outseam of the pants, making it visible when cuffs are worn. Although
selvage denim is not completely synonymous with unwashed denim, the presence of selvage
typically implies that the denim used is a higher quality. The word "selvage" comes from the phrase
"self-edge" and denotes denim made on old-style shuttle looms. These looms weave fabric with one
continuous cross thread (the weft) that is passed back and forth all the way down the length of the
bolt. As the weft loops back into the edge of the denim it creates this “self-edge” or Selvage. Selvage
is desirable because the edge can’t fray like lower grade denims that have.

separate wefts which leave an open edge that must be stitched. Shuttle looming is a more time-
consuming weaving process that produces denim of a tighter weave resulting in a heavier weight
fabric that lasts. Shuttle looms weave a more narrow piece of fabric, and thus a longer piece of fabric
is required to make a pair of jeans (approximately 3 yards). To maximize yield, traditional jean
makers use the fabric all the way to the selvage edge. When the cuff is turned up the two selvage
edges, where the denim is sewn together, can be seen. The selvage edge is usually stiched with
colored thread: green, white, brown, yellow, and red (red is the most common). Fabric mills used
these colors to differentiate between fabrics.

Most selvage jeans today are dyed with synthetic indigo, but natural indigo dye is available in
smaller niche denim labels. Loop dying machines feed a rope of cotton yarn through vats of indigo
dye and then back out. The dye is allowed to oxidize before the next dip. Multiple dips create a
deep dark indigo blue. In response to increased demand for jeans in the 1950's, American denim
manufacturers replaced the old shuttle style looms with modern projectile looms. The new looms
produced fabric faster and wider (60- inches or wider), yet lighter and less durable. Synthetic
dyeing techniques along with post-dye treatments were introduced to control shrink and twist.
Raw selvage is material that has not been washed once undergoing the dying process. It is
especially desirable because the material will fade in the creases and folds of the jeans. This
process is known as whiskering.

Here are some of the newer types of denim on the market.