Ngn Nm o M

Bn quyn tc phm Trn Quang c, 2013

nh v tranh minh ha do tc gi chp, v v su tp.

Xut bn theo hp ng s dng tc phm gia Cng ty Vn ha v Truyn thng

Nh Nam v tc gi Trn Quang c, 2013

Bn quyn tc phm c bo h. Mi hnh thc xut bn, sao chp, phn phi di dng
in n hoc vn bn in t, c bit l vic pht tn trn mng Internet m khng c s cho
php bng vn bn ca Nh xut bn l vi phm php lut v lm tn hi n quyn li ca
nh xut bn v tc gi. Khng ng h, khuyn khch nhng hnh vi vi phm bn quyn.
Ch mua bn bn in hp php.

Bin mc trn xut bn phm ca Th vin Quc gia Vit Nam

Trn Quang c
Ngn nm o m / Trn Quang c. - H. : Th gii ; Cng ty Vn ho v Truyn thng
Nh Nam, 2013. - 397tr. : nh, tranh ; 25cm

1. Trang phc truyn thng 2. Vit Nam

391.009597 - dc14
TGH0007p-CIP
LI CM N LI TA 1

Ngn nm o m chc chn khng th hon thnh sm nu khng nc ta, trc nay khi mun tm hiu vn ha c ca dn tc,
c s gip nhit tnh t pha nhng ngi bn, ngi ng nghip nht l v cch n mc, ngi ta khng bit phi trng vo u. Cc sch
ca chng ti. c nh Lch triu hin chng hay cc sch Khm nh, Hi in i khi
Nay nhn dp cun sch c ra mt bn c, chng ti xin cm c nhc n mt vi kiu y phc, m mo, nhng cng ch s lc, v
n cc anh ch Trnh Bch, L Tip, Philippe Trng, Nguyn Ln thng khng c hnh nh dn chng.
Cng, Nguyn Nh an Huyn, Nomura Chosho, Nguyn Quang Cc tc phm trn c vit vi mc ch p dng cho ngi ng
Duy, Nguyn Nht Anh, Nguyn Thnh t, Thn Tun, Nguyn thi, ch khng phi l s liu hay ti liu vn ha cho i sau. Hn na,
Th Bch, Nguyn Th Dung, T Lan, Trn Vn Quyn, Nguyn Pht trong thi i ca cc c tc gia , khi nhng kiu loi trang phc c
H Giang, Chihiro Motohiro, H Nh , l nhng ngi sao chp, nhc n trong sch ca h vn cn thng dng, tn gi h lit k vn l
cung cp t liu cho chng ti. c bit, L Tip cn l ngi gip cc vt dng i thng, th vic gii thch v chng l khng cn thit.
chng ti thc hin mt s tranh v phc dng. T d nh ngy nay c my ai cn phi c ging gii mi bit th no
Chng ti xin chn thnh cm n anh inh Thanh Hiu, Trnh l ci o di hay chic nn l. Nhng tng t, vi nm na y phn
Bch, on nh Dng, nhng ngi tn tnh hiu nh bn tho, ng gii tr s khng mng tng ni ci o i cn nh th no.
bc Lai Thy, bc Dng Trung Quc, anh Nguyn Mnh Tin, ch Vn ha trang phc truyn thng Vit Nam b mt du tch su
Quch Hin, anh ng Hi Quang nhng ngi c nhiu s quan m nht khi nn vn ha Ty phng do ngi Php a vo c p
tm v gip chng ti trong vic tm kim cc ngun ti tr. t trit ln x hi Vit Nam. Tip theo l s i thay ca lch s v
Chng ti xin trn trng cm n cc anh Nguyn Hu Chin, thc h. Nhng bin ng x hi y khin cho ngy nay khng ai cn
Nguyn Hng Minh, Nguyn Quang Huy cng cng ty PMC, cng ty BFS bit ng b ta ngy xa n mc, sinh sng nh th no. V khi cn ti
ti tr cho cng trnh nghin cu ny. hin li n mc ca ngi Vit trong qu kh, ngi ta sng tc mt
Chng ti xin gi li tri n ti ban lnh o cng cc anh ch phng cch ty tin.
Tu th, phng Ch bn thuc Cng ty Vn ha v Truyn thng Nh Phim nh l phng tin truyn b vn ha cho gii tr hu hiu v
Nam, nhng ngi to nhiu iu kin cho s ra i cun sch ny. trc tip, nhng hin nay nhiu b phim hay v kch ti hin lch s li
Chng ti c bit cm n ch Nguyn Hong Diu Thy, bin tp vin c phc trang truyn thng khc nhau. Ri gn y khi s giao lu vn
chnh ca cun sch, ch Mai Th Mai, ngi trc tip trnh by cun ha tr nn d dng th trang phc truyn thng Vit Nam trong phim
sch, v anh T Quc K Nam, ha s thit k ba sch. nh v trn sn khu li mang m du n ca phim nh Trung Quc.
y l t hy dit nguy him hn ht cho kin thc v lch s vn ha
H Ni, cui xun nm Qu T 2013 o m truyn thng ca gii tr Vit Nam.
Trn Quang c

V th vic ra i ca quyn sch Ngn nm o m l mt s cu ri
may mn. C l y l mt trong nhng tp ti liu vn ha, lch s trang
phc c nghin cu su v c bin son k nht Vit Nam, nu
khng ni l quc t, cho n nay. Tc gi vi vn ling ngoi ng v c
vn rt cao b ra nhiu nm ln ln, tm ti cc th vin cng nh
dn gian Vit Nam v cc nc, nht l Trung Quc, c c nhng
ti liu qu gi v chnh xc c kt nn tc phm ny.
Khi c i Vit s k ton th hay Lch triu hin chng loi ch
chng hn, ci inh t cn, hay m ch inh ph bin sut my th
k trong x hi Vit Nam xa lm in u c gi ngy nay. Hay thc
mc v kiu ct tc mi phn ca cc i L, Trn, L, hoc hng bo
ca cc hong Vit trc thin triu. V rt nhiu nhng loi o, m
na. Tt c c tc gi gii thch vi minh chng khoa hc v minh ha
chnh xc trong tp nghin cu Ngn nm o m ny.
Xin chn thnh cm n tc gi Trn Quang c v b cng sc
kh nhc v th gi qu bu nhng xng ng ca anh trong vic bin
son quyn sch dy gi tr ny.
H Ni, ngy 19.2.2013
LI TA 2
Thin Quan ngha trong Kinh L c cu: Phm ngi m c th
l ngi cho ng ngha l nh l ngha, m m u ca l ngha l
dung th c oan chnh, nhan sc c trang nghim, li ni c
cung thun. Dung th oan chnh, nhan sc trang nghim, li ni cung
thun th sau l ngha mi y , chnh o vua ti, thn o cha
con, ha o ln nh. o vua ti chnh, o cha con thn, o ln nh
ha ri sau l ngha mi lp. Cho nn i m ri sau trang phc mi y
, trang phc y ri sau dung th mi oan chnh, nhan sc mi
trang nghim, li ni mi cung thun. Cho nn ni rng l i m l m
u ca l, v th thnh vng thi c rt coi trng l i m.
C nhn cho rng trang phc l mt phn quan trng, thm ch l
m u ca l, cng tc l vn minh, con ngi ng ngha l con
ngi, khc vi cm th.
Nc ta vn xng l nc vn hin, cc chnh th qun ch lch
triu u c kht vng mun xy dng ci Nam mt h thng in
chng ch khng km (v tn) Hoa H (Trung Quc), v hu cng
t ho tng l chn l nhc y quan s ty, thanh danh vn vt s
(ni t hi m o l nhc, vn vt thanh danh). Vt i sao di, ngy nay
nhn li, sinh sau nghn nm m mun ni chuyn nghn nm trc,
cng khng phi d dng. Gi y mun kho li y quan ca c nhn,
ng hu khng thn nh Tch m vong t, th vn hin khng , vn
Trnh Bch vt cng tha, ch bit trng vo nhng ghi chp ca cc bc tin nhn
nh L Qu n, Phan Huy Ch, Phm nh H v.v. hay chnh s, hi
in cc vng triu, nhng ch ngha k khu, danh vt xa cch, cng
tht kh m hnh dung tng tng ra c.
Trn Quang c tin sinh dnh tm huyt my nm truy kho
m o nghn nm. ng c nh a ti xem bn tho. L ngi c hc
cht t ch nho, thch truy tm c in, c cun sch ca ng a vo

th gii y quan vn vt ca c nhn, vi ti c sc hp dn l thng. Vi
mt t duy mch lc, lp lun cht ch, t liu phong ph, kt hp th
tch vi hnh, nh tng, sch v vi thc t, tham chiu c trc thi
gian, khng gian, cun sch c th xem l gp phn minh trngcho
in chng vn vt ca nc Vit ta, v chc hn s l t liu cn thit
cho nhiu ngnh, nhiu lnh vc.
Trn qun thng minh vn sn tnh tri, c o to cn c, trong
iu kin mi c nhiu thun li, kt hp vi tm huyt ca mt ngi
hiu c nn lm c iu ngi trc mun m cha lm c. 1.1. T tng vng.......................... 19
l iu m ti thnh tm tn thn v chia vui cng tc gi, cn
ni l vit Ta th ti u dm!
H Ni, thng Mnh xun nm Qu T 2013
inh Thanh Hiu
MC LC
PHM L................................................. 13 3. Thng phc....................................... 75
T LUN................................................. 15 III. Trang phc qun i........................ 82
IV. Trang phc dn gian......................... 87
1. Y phc.................................................. 87
2. Kiu tc................................................ 91
Ph lc 1. Mt s ghi chp lin quan ti
trang phc Chim Thnh t th k XI n
th k XV.................................................. 96
TNG QUAN..........................................19 Ph lc 2. Mt s ghi chp v hnh nh
I. TNG QUAN TRANG PHC CUNG lin quan ti v nhc Vit Nam thi L
NH VIT NAM.................................... 19 Trn......................................................... 99
1. Nhng t tng nh hng n vn
ha trang phc cung nh Vit Nam..... 19
1.2. Quan nim Hoa di........................... 23
2. Lc s trang phc cung nh Vit
Nam......................................................... 34 Chng II. TRANG PHC THI TRN.....
II. TNG QUAN TRANG PHC DN ............................................................... 101
GIAN VIT NAM..................................... 40 I. Trang phc hong ........................ 106
Ph lc. Bin di lun.............................. 45 1. Triu phc ........................................ 106
2. Thng phc .................................... 107
3. Tin phc . ........................................ 110
II. Trang phc b quan......................... 112
1. L phc ............................................. 112
2. Thng phc .................................... 118
CHNH VN.......................................... 49 *i nt v bc ha Trc Lm i s xut
Chng I. TRANG PHC THI L........ 49 sn ..................................................... 128
I. Trang phc hong .......................... 53 III. Trang phc qun i...................... 133
1. L phc................................................ 53 IV. Trang phc dn gian....................... 135
2. Thng phc....................................... 60 1. Y phc ............................................... 135
3. Tin phc............................................ 66 2. Kiu tc.............................................. 137
II. Trang phc b quan........................... 71 Ph kho. Ci cch quan phc nm 1396
1. L phc................................................ 71 v trang phc thi H.......................... 141
2. Triu phc........................................... 72 Ph lc 1. Trang phc c tang v quan
 MC LC
nim v hai mu en trng ................. 147
Ph lc 2. S lng tht la v qut cng
sang nh Minh t nm 1416 n 1423...... 2. Thng phc - Th phc .................211
............................................................... 149
Ph lc 3. Bn hiu chnh phn Chng
phc trong sch An Nam ch lc.......150
Chng III. TRANG PHC THI L...153
Trang phc thi L s...........................160
I. Trang phc hong ........................161
1. L phc - Triu phc........................161
2. Thng phc ....................................165
II. Trang phc b quan.........................169
1. Cng phc - Triu phc...................171
2. Thng phc.....................................175
3. Trang phc qun i........................181
Ph kho. Trang phc nh Mc..........183
Trang phc thi L Trung Hng..........187
I. Trang phc vua cha........................188
1. Triu phc ........................................189
2. T phc .............................................192
3. Thng phc ....................................195
4. Tin phc . ........................................198
MC LC
II. Trang phc b quan.........................200
1. Triu phc ........................................202
3. Tin phc . ........................................224
III. Trang phc hu cung.....................228 4. Qun phc ........................................295
1. L phc..............................................229 II. Trang phc b quan.........................297
2. Tin phc..........................................232 1. L phc .............................................297
IV. Trang phc qun i .....................234 2. Triu phc ........................................307
V. Trang phc dn gian........................240 3. Thng phc ....................................322
1. Y phc ...............................................240 III. Trang phc hu cung.....................335 Trung Hng nm 1725
2. Kiu tc .............................................246 1. Triu phc ........................................335 Bng quy ch Th phc chu cha ca b
Ph kho 1. Ci cch y phc ng Trong 2. Thng phc ....................................342 quan triu L Trung Hng nm 1721
nm 1744 S ra i v qu trnh ph Bng quy ch Triu phc ca b quan triu
IV. Trang phc qun i .....................345
Nguyn nm 1804
cp ca o di nm thn......................258 V. Trang phc dn gian........................348 Bng quy ch Triu phc ca b quan triu
1. Y phc ...............................................348 Nguyn nm 1845
2. Kiu tc .............................................351 Bng quy ch Triu phc ca mt s v hong
LI KT.................................................355 t, hong thn, tn tht triu Nguyn nm
1845
Bng quy ch Thng phc ca b quan triu
Chng IV. TRANG PHC THI TY Nguyn nm 1804
SN........................................................267
I. Trang phc cung nh.......................267 TIU T IN TRANG PHC VIT NAM
II. Trang phc dn gian........................272 TH MC SCH TRCH DN
PH LC............................................ 357
Bng quy ch Triu phc ca b quan triu L
Trung Hng nm 1661
Bng quy ch Triu phc ca b quan triu L
Trung Hng nm 1721
Bng quy ch Triu phc ca b quan triu L
Chng V. TRANG PHC THI
NGUYN...............................................275
I. Trang phc hong ........................278
1. L phc .............................................278
2. Triu phc ........................................288
3. Thng phc ....................................293
 PHM L

Trong cun sch ny, tn cc sch trch dn

c in nghing, khng vit tt, ngoi tr i Vit
s k ton th, Khm nh Vit s thng gim cng
mc, Lch triu hin chng loi ch, Khm nh i
Nam hi in s l ln lt c gi tt l Ton th,
Cng mc, Loi ch v Hi in. Bulletin des Amis
du Vieux Hu (Nhng ngi bn c Hu) chng
ti vn s dng tn vit tt thng dng l BAVH. Cc
thng tin trong Ton th, Cng mc, chng ti ch dn nm.
Ti phn cc ch chng ti nht lot ch tn sch v v tr
thng tin trch dn. Bn c c th tra cc thng tin y lin
quan n tn tc gi, nh xut bn v nm xut bn ti phn
th mc trch dn cui sch.
Vi cc t liu Hn vn c, chng ti trc tip dch ra
quc vn, khng ch km m Hn Vit trong ni dung chnh,
nguyn vn s c ch dn y ti phn cc ch bn
c quan tm tin tham kho. Quy cch ch dn nh sau: (Tn
nc) Tn sch - Phn mc. V d: (Triu) Chi Phong tin sinh
tp - Q.8 - An Nam quc s thn xng ha vn p lc - Hu,
tc l phn Hu trong mc An Nam quc s thn xng ha
vn p lc nm trong Quyn 8 sch Chi Phong tin sinh tp
ca Triu Tin - Hn Quc.
Mt s bn t liu c sao chp c chng ti khai
thc ti cc trang web nh cadal.zju.edu.cn (Trung M
bch vn th), archive.org, record.museum.
kyushu-u.ac.jp (Bo tng i hc Kyushu, Nht
Bn), yoksa.aks.ac.kr/main.jsp (Trung tm Thng
tin Nghin cu Hn Quc, Hc vin Nghin cu
Hn Quc) v.v. Bn c quan tm c th tham
kho trc tip trn cc trang web ny.
 T LUN

S thiu khuyt s liu - hin vt l mt trong nhng tr ngi ln,

gy nhiu kh khn cho cc nh nghin cu khi ln tm din mo trang
phc c ca ngi Vit Nam. Ngay Phan Huy Ch (1782-1840) trong
Loi ch cng phi tha nhn c nhiu kiu m ng khng th kho
c. Tuy thin v kho quy ch trang phc vua quan triu Hu L, Loi
ch vn c coi l tp chuyn kho trang phc cc triu i u tin ti
Vit Nam.
Tham kho Lch triu hin chng loi ch v Khm nh i Nam
Hi in s l, Trng Quc Dng (1797 - 1864) hon thnh phn kho
quy ch o mo cung nh t triu Tin L cho ti triu Nguyn, ghi li
trong Cng h k vn. Nm 1915, Phan K Bnh vi Vit Nam phong tc,
nm 1938, o Duy Anh vi Vit Nam vn ha s cng, bc u vch
ra nhng nt phc ha chung cho trang phc dn gian Vit Nam. Nm
1970, Nht Thanh vi t l qu thi, Toan nh vi Np c con ngi
Vit Nam tip tc t bt khc t li n vn dn gian theo tp qun thi
Nguyn v.v. Hn hai chc nm tr li y xut hin thm mt s nh
nghin cu trang phc nh on Th Tnh (Tm hiu trang phc Vit
Nam - 1988, Trang phc Vit Nam - 2006, Trang phc Thng Long H
Ni - 2010), Ng c Thnh (Trang phc c truyn cc dn tc Vit Nam
- 1994), Trnh Quang V (Lch s trang phc cc triu i phong kin Vit
Nam - 2005, Trang phc triu L Trnh - 2008) v.v. vi s tip cn rng
hn ti lch s trang phc Vit.
Thit ngh, hiu c lch s t tng, vn ha v m thut Vit
Nam, nghin cu trang phc c chnh l mt ngnh v cng quan trng,
cn ti s tip cn mang tnh khoa hc, lin ngnh, gn vi nhng chng
l y , xc thc. Nhng cun sch kho cu gn y tuy c nhng
ng gp nht nh, nhng vn tn ti mt s hn ch, nh thng
xuyn s dng cch dn chng hm h kiu s c ghi, s xa chp
li rng, tng truyn rng m khng ch r ngun dn, xut x; vic
nghin cu nhiu khi ch dng li vic cng b mt s t liu lin quan,
thiu thao tc kho cu, phn tch c th; vic xc nh, nh danh cc
 dng o m hu ht mang nng tnh t bin, c on. Mt khc, t liu
Hn Nm c trch dn phn ln l t cc bn dch ting Vit sn c,
16
trong khi chnh nhng bn dch ny rt hn ch v mt s lng, ng
thi tn ti nhiu ch dch khng chun xc, nht l trong cc phn
cp ti trang phc.
Trong cun sch ny, chng ti khng i su kho cu phng
thc ch tc vi vc, thu tha m ch yu lm r kiu dng, quy ch
ca cc loi o m tng c s dng ph bin trong cung nh v dn
gian Vit Nam t thi L n thi Nguyn. i vi vn ha cung nh,
s phn chia giai tng x hi c quy nh nghim ngt, ch o m
do cng c lut l ring, nh Phan Huy Ch khng nh: o tr
nc khng g ln bng L, L l lm r tn ti [] Quy ch o m, nghi
v l phn bit trn di. (Loi ch L nghi ch) Lu nay, trong i
chng v trong mt b phn gii nghin cu tn ti mt cm quan rng
triu nh Vit Nam m cht dn gian, tn ti lng lo, khc vi triu
nh Trung Quc. D nhin, vn ha cung nh Vit Nam khng qu
mc phc tp, nhiu kh, v tng triu i khc nhau, tnh tn ti, bo
th cng c th hin khng ng u, song r rng cung nh lun l
ni duy tr mt l li vn ha nghim cn, khng i khi, linh hot nh
vn ha dn gian. Nhn nhn r s khu bit giai cp ny, nhng quy ch
phn bit cao thp, sang hn trong trang phc thi phong kin - qun
ch cng s c soi t.
Cng y, i vi t liu tranh tng, chng ti tin hnh kho
st thn trng da trn tnh ng i ca hin vt, kt hp hin vt vi
nhng m t trong th tch tng quan. Ly v d, sau nhng bin ng
to ln din ra vo cui thi Trn - H, c bit l sau 20 nm thuc Minh,
tuyt i a s tng th vua quan thi L - Trn u b ph hy.
Cc pho tng c th thy hin nay phn ln c to dng vo th k
XVIII, XIX, vi m tp i m Phc u hoc m Xung Thin, mc o
c trn nh B T. Trong khi quy ch B T ln u tin c p dng
vo triu nh i Vit vo nm 1471, thi vua L Thnh Tng; hn na
mt trong nhng quy nh tc tng thi Cnh Hng (1767) cng c
L Qu n ghi r: V thn no d vo hng ti linh th vn nh c,
cn by ti cc triu i trc c d phong phc thn, u theo l mi
[] M cc v thn i, u dng m Phc u [] cm dng hnh dng
m Xung Thin chp cnh [] B t, trung ng thn dng hnh k ln,
thng ng thn dng hnh long m. (Kin vn tiu lc). i Nam thc
lc cn cho bit vo thi Minh Mng, Vn miu tnh Ninh Bnh c tng
17
Khng T v bn v thnh ca o Nho u i m Min, mc o Cn;
vua Minh Mng v cc quan u cho rng Cn Min l trang phc ca
bc vng gi, cch n mc th hin trn tng nh vy l tht l, nn h
lnh em chn. Nhng dn chng ny khin chng ti mun lu rng,
khng th khinh sut da vo cc pho tng c tc dng vo triu i
sau ny c on trang phc ca triu i trc y, nh trng hp
mt s ngi nghin cu khi kho trang phc ca vua L Thi T (974-
1028) da vo pho tng cha Kin S mang m th php dn gian
cui thi Hu L th k XVIII.
Cc d liu m t trang phc ca vua quan Vit Nam thi phong
kin hu ht l t liu Hn vn, nu khng c kin thc nht nh trong
lnh vc c trang, khi phin dch ngi dch d li nhiu sai lc. Khng
th ph nhn, bn dch ca tin nhn cng c nhng sai st khin nhiu
ngi nghin cu v sau b sai theo. Nh bn dch Ton th lu hnh
hin nay dch o Xng Hc l o lng hc, m Tht Lng Quan l m
by cu, m tr nh cnh phng bng vng (kim phng x) l cnh
m thu phng vng v.v. Bn dch An Nam ch lc dch phng tm
khc lnh l tim vung trng o cong, m ng Cn l khn tu v.v.
Trn thc t, Xng Hc, Lng Quan, phng tm khc lnh, phng
x, ng Cn u l tn ring ca cc loi o, m, phc sc. Vy nn
khi kho cu, chng ti c gng truy nguyn v ngun, tm ra t liu gc
lm c s, din dch nhng t liu mt cch chun xc, nhm a ra
nhng kt qu nghin cu ng tin cy.
Do t liu khan him, trong cun sch ny, chng ti ch c th
bc u kho cu trang phc cung nh Vit Nam t triu L ti triu
Nguyn (1009 - 1945), nhng thng tin lin quan n trang phc cung
nh trc thi L s c trnh by ti phn Tng quan. Chng ti bit
vic nghin cu cha th dng li y, nhng hn ch v mt chuyn
mn, v t liu lun cn c b khuyt. Trong tng lai c th c nhng
kin mi, nhng pht hin mi gip cng c hoc bc b kt lun no
ca chng ti, d theo hng no chng ti vn trn trng coi l
s ng gp tch cc cho nghin cu ny.
 TNG QUAN

tin kho cu v trnh by, chng ti

phn trang phc thi phong kin - qun ch
thnh hai loi hnh: cung nh v dn gian.
Trong , trang phc cung nh, giai on
phong kin - qun ch, vi t cch l vn hin
o m ca mt quc gia c lp, tri qua
nhng vn ng c th, mang mt din
mo va c nt tng ng, va c im d
bit so vi trang phc ca triu nh cc nc
Trung Quc, Triu Tin(1), Nht Bn.

I. TNG QUAN TRANG PHC

CUNG NH VIT NAM

Nghin cu vn ha cung nh Vit Nam,

khng th khng xt n hai lung t tng
gy nh hng su m v mang tnh quyt
nh, l t tng vng v quan nim
Hoa di. Din mo vn ha trang phc ca
cung nh Vit Nam cng khng nm ngoi
nhng nh hng ny.
u h: 1. u h trong cung
nh triu Nguyn Vit Nam; 2. 1. Nhng t tng nh hng n vn
Minh Tuyn Tng hnh lc ha trang phc cung nh Vit Nam
- Trung Quc; 3. Lm h u
h - Triu Tin. 4. Ngy xun 1.1. T tng vng
chi u h ti cha Sensoji Bt ngun t thc c lp, t ch,
Nht Bn.
chng chi n cng trc nhng chnh sch
cai tr bo tn, ngi Vit vng ng bng sng Hng c th coi l mt
trong nhng cng ng lm lon nhiu nht trong thi cn ni thuc

1. Chng ti dng tn ny ch nc Triu Tin thi k phong kin thng nht t nm 1910 tr v trc, khi
cha b Nht Bn chim ng v cha b chia tch thnh CHDCND Triu Tin v Hn Quc nh hin nay.
 ch thng tr ca Trung Quc(1). Bt k quan nim ca ngi phng Bc
cho rng, tri ch c mt thin t, thin h ch c mt hong , song
20
khng t th lnh nc Vit mi khi ginh c c lp, ginh quyn
lm ch ci t phng Nam u xng , d khi chm trn thin triu
vn nhn mnh xng l b ti: L B xng nm 544, Mai Thc Loan
xng nm 713, v nm 968, inh B Lnh t xng i Thng Minh
hong Phan Huy Ch s d coi nc Vit t thi inh L m nc
i chi vi Trung Hoa , bi tnh t thi im ny tr i, v th ca mt
(2)
t nc c lp c khng nh, t tng b ch tri Nam ht
sc sng r nh chnh li chc ca Nam Vit Vng inh Lin nhn gi
trn ct kinh trng: Chc i Thng Minh hong mi lm b ch tri
Nam, gi yn ngi bu, mi trn vng tri Nam, th l khung ph
nghip. Vic y cng nh li nhn xt ca quan Trung Quc thi Minh
(3)
l L Vn Phng: Nht Tn t lm nc y [] ly quc hiu i
Vit. T y v sau, con chu h L cho ti h Trn, L, Mc u gim theo
vt c, tim xng hiu. (4)
Vic vua nc Vit xng ,
ng ngha vi vic ng vua Vit
c hng mi c quyn, nghi l
dnh cho thin t, khng km vua
Trung Hoa. Thi ca triu nh
phng Bc i vi vic ln vt,
khng king d(5) ca triu nh
i Vit l nhiu khi nh phi Rng thi L khai qut ti
hong thnh Thng Long.
khut mt trng coi nh ghi nhn
1. S lm lon ny c khng t quan li phng Bc a tin v thin triu nh Thi th Giao Ch, Hp
Ph thi Ng l Tit Tng (?-243) dng s vit: (Giao Ch) ni rng him tr, d lm lon, kh tr (An
Nam ch lc. Tr.118. Nguyn vn: ); Th s Giao Chu thi Ty Tn l o
Hong cng vit: Dn chu ny thch gy ha lon. (An Nam ch lc. Tr.121. Nguyn vn:
); n tn thi Ng i, vua Nam Hn l Lu Nghim vn phn nn: Dn Giao Ch a lm lon.
(An Nam ch lc. Tr.279. Nguyn vn: )
2. (Vit) Loi ch - Vn tch ch - T. Nguyn vn:
3. Vn khc Hn Nm. Tp 1. Tr.64, 66. Nguyn vn: []
4. (Trung) Vit kiu th - Tng t - S 162. Tr.666. Nguyn vn:
5. T dng ca Ch Nhn Hoch, ngi thi Thanh. (Trung) Kin h d tp - Q.1 - An Nam th lc. Nguyn
vn: (Nc An Nam cch Trung
Quc my ngn dm, mang ting gi gn thanh gio, nhng k thc t lm hong mt nc. t nin
hiu, nh quy ch u khng king d)
ca quan nh Tng, Trnh Tng: H L t sau Cng
Un truyn n thi Ho Sm ngy nay, thy tm i.
21
Tn cc i l Nht, l Cn, l Dng, l Thin, l Long
u c ln vt b trn. Triu nh coi nc y xa ni
gc b, khng thm ln la so o(1); cng c khi li tr
thnh mt trong nhng ci c san bng nc Vit,
m nh im l cuc xm lc ca nh Minh trong
nhng nm u th k XV. Vic khng tun theo
chnh sc ca triu nh (lch nh Minh), tim vt i
quc hiu thnh i Ngu, xng lo tn hiu, i nin
hiu Nguyn Thnh(2), mt trong hai mi ti c nh
Minh gn cho cha con h H, trn thc t cng chnh
l qun l ca triu nh i Vit. Nhng sau bao cng
sc vo cng cuc gio ha hng rn dy An Nam
phi ngoan ngon nghe li, ca nh Minh vn Gi chu ra thi
hon ton sp , bi vi chin thng ca L Li hai Nguyn (BAVH).
mi nm sau, t ct li l t ct An Nam, nhn
dn li l nhn dn An Nam, phong tc o m li c ng nh xa,
nn np mi ging li c sng nh c(3), c bit, theo L Vn Phng,
L Li khng ngh n vic thnh tht hi li, b ngoi thn phc,
nhng bn trong li rp tm ln vt, tim hiu, ci nguyn i chi
ngang hng vi Trung Quc.(4)
Chnh v vy, cng d hiu khi vua cha Vit Nam lun mun mnh
ngang hng, thm ch vt tri so vi cc v vua ti c ca Trung Hoa,
m khng phi vua cha ca mt quc gia no khc. S so snh ny
khi l s so b v ti nng nh L Chiu Hong khen chng, Trn Cnh:
Vn cht v, thc th cch qun t hin nhn, uy nghi ng hong,
c t cht thnh thn vn v, d Hn Cao T, ng Thi Tng cng
1. (Trung) Trnh Khai Dng tp tr - Q.6 - An Nam k lc. Tr.45. Nguyn vn:
2. (Trung) Minh thc lc - Thi Tng thc lc - Q.60 - Mc ngy t Mi thng 10 nm Vnh Lc th t.
Nguyn vn: Ton th chp nin
hiu thi H Qu Ly l Thnh Nguyn
3. (Vit) Lam Sn thc lc - Ph lc li bnh. Nguyn vn:
4. (Trung) Vit kiu th - T. Tr.664. Nguyn vn: ,
 khng hn c(1), hay s thn V Qunh khen vua L Thnh Tng:
Quy m xp t, cng nghip trung hng, c th snh vai vi H Thiu
22
Khang, ni gt c Chu Tuyn Vng, m khinh hn Hn Quang V,
ng Hin Tng l hng di vy(2); khi l s so snh v c nh
vua Trn D Tng khen vua Trn Thi Tng: Sng nghip Vit - ng,
hai Thi Tng/ Kia xng Trinh Qun, ta Nguyn Phong/ Kin Thnh b
git An Sinh sng/ Miu hiu nh nhau, c chng ng ; cng c khi
ch n gin l s so snh v dng v ca i tai, con mt nh trng
hp Thng th Nguyn Cng Bt ca ngi vua L Nhn Tng: Mt trong
m en trng r rng, khc con mt hai ngi Thun ; tai p m vnh
tai di rng, ch ci tai ba l H vng(4) v.v. Vic so b ti nng c
vi vua cha Trung Hoa trn thc t khng cn l vic lu hnh ni
b trong triu nh i Vit. Triu Tin vng triu thc lc cho bit,
vo ngy mng 1 thng 5 nm Triu Tin Thi Tng th 7 (nm 1407),
quan Ni s nh Minh l Trnh Thng, hnh nhn Phng Cn, mang t
chiu bnh nh An Nam n Triu Tin. Ti cung Kyeongbok, s thn
tuyn chiu, sai Jeong Gu () dng ting a phng, Jo Jeong ()
Chung. Chung Trung Quc thi ng (618-907. Bo tng Giang Ty);
Chung Vit Nam thi L (1009-1225. BTLSVN); Chung Hn Quc thi
Cao Ly (918-1392. Cha i Phc Daeboksa). Chung Nht Bn thi Bnh
An (794-1192. Cha Qun Th m Kanzeonji).
1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:, ; , ,
Nhng li khen ny vn c vit bi tay vn thn do Trn Th sp t.
2. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: Nguyn vn: ,,,,,,
3. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: , , , ;,;,,
4. (Vit) Th vn L Trn. Tp 1. Tr.392. Nguyn vn: , ;, ,,,
dng ting Hn c chiu. T chiu c on k ti T cho thnh trit
hn Tam hong, c cao hn Ng ; coi Vn vng, V vng khng
23
lm php tc, khinh Chu cng, Khng t khng lm bc thy; hy
bng Mnh T l o nho (tay nh nho n trm - TQ ch), Trnh Chu tho
cp nht. Di thnh di tri, khng ngi khng th. Tim quc hiu gi l
i Ngu, trm k nguyn gi l Thiu Thnh. Xng l Lng cung hong
(3) , dm dng nghi l triu nh. Chng phi ch ngang tng ci xa, m
k thc mun chng chi ngang hng cng Trung Quc.(1)
V mt l nghi trang phc, bi vy, cng khng th thua km. Do
c s nhn ng v in chng, vn hin ca Trung Quc, trong sut
mt thi gian di, cng ging nh Triu Tin, triu nh Vit Nam coi
th ch, vn hin Trung Hoa l ngun tham kho chnh thng. Ch
trang phc cung nh Vit Nam m phng ch ca Trung Quc
c c s uy nghim, chun mc tng t. Tuy nhin, theo quy lut
sng to vn ha, li trn tinh thn t ch, ch ng xy dng t nc
theo m hnh Trung Hoa, triu nh Vit Nam trong hn mt ngn nm
phong kin - qun ch d nhiu ln m phng ch o m, l nhc,
khoa c ca cc triu i Trung Quc, vn lun to nn nhng nt bin
d c o, lm tn thm v uy nghi, sang trng ca vua quan nc Vit.
1.2. Quan nim Hoa di
Ngoi t tng vng, triu nh Vit Nam cn chu nh hng
t mt quan nim, vn trn ngp trong cc kinh in ca Trung Quc,
l quan nim Hoa di. Trc th k XIX, khi cha tr thnh danh t ring
c ch mt chng tc hay mt quc gia c th, cc khi nim Hoa,
H, Trung quc, Trung H, Trung chu v.v. xut hin trong kinh
in thi Xun Thu (770-476 tr.CN) c dng ch vng t, cng c
khi ch nhng ngi vn minh trung tm, c l gio, khu bit vi cc
sc dn man, di, nhung, ch bn pha xung quanh. Chin quc sch
gii thch: Trung quc l ni bc tr tu thng minh c tr, ni vn vt
ti nguyn hi t, ni thnh hin trin khai gio ha, ni nhn ngha
c ban b thi hnh, ni thi th, l nhc c s dng, ni ti ngh k
1. (Triu) Triu Tin vng triu thc lc Thi Tng thc lc. Mc ngy 1 thng 5 nm Thi Tng t 7.
,,,[],
Ton th chp nin hiu thi H Hn Thng l Thiu Thnh.
 tuyt c trin thi, ni phng xa n quan nhng ngi hc theo kinh in ca Trung Quc th khng th b coi
ngng, ni man di phng noi theo. (1)
l man di, v bn thn nhng quc gia c l gio tng t cc triu Hn
24 25
T quan nim trung tm vn minh, ng cng u c th c coi l Hoa H, l Trung quc. Hay c th
thnh ca o Nho, Mnh T ch trng hiu mt cch n gin hn nh hc gi ngi M, Alexander Barton
dng H bin di, em vn minh tin tin Woodside v chnh khi nim Trung quc c s dng ti Vit Nam
ca trung nguyn truyn b ra xung quanh vo thi Nguyn: Nm 1805, vua Gia Long coi Vit Nam l vng quc
nh mt cng cuc khai ha. Tuy nhin, sau trung tm hay Trung quc. Thut ng ting Hn thng thng c
khi tip nhn mt phn vn ha Hn, hp dng ch Trung Hoa, nhng trong tay ngi Vit, n li tr thnh
thu t tng Xun Thu, vua ti cc nc mt khi nim tru tng khng c s tham kho a l no. N bin
Vit, Triu, Nht u t nhn l Trung quc, i thnh mt cm t c kh nng c dng ch bt k vng quc
Trung H, tc ch th ca mt nn vn minh no c lp nn trn c s nhng nguyn tc kinh in Trung Hoa, khi
Mnh T (Thnh miu t c y l gio, vn hin khng thua km nhn thy xung quanh mnh b bao bc bi nhng k man di khng
in kho).
(Vit) i Nam Quc m t cc triu i Hn ng. Asami Keisai ( c gio ha.(1)
v dch cm t Dng H ), hc gi Nht Bn thi trung i tng L gii quan nim ca vua ti ngi Vit t nhn t Vit l quc
bin Di l: Dng php
K Ch m i thi mi bn lun v khi nim Trung quc cho bit: gia vn minh trung tm mi c th l gii c vic vua ti Vit Nam
(Tr.230), ng thi gii Nc ti (ch Nht Bn) bit o Xun Thu th khng t ln s dng khi nim Trung quc, Trung H, Khu H, Hoa H
thch t Hoa di ngha l K
Ch, mi ni chung. (Vit) nc ti l ch th. Nu coi nc ti l ch ch nc mnh. T nh:
Mnh T Quc vn gii th th thin h i nht thng l ng gc - Ton th vit: Trc y, L Gic trn sang Chim Thnh, ni
thch gii thch: H l ni
vn minh, c l ngha gio nc ti nhn sang cc nc khc, cng tnh hnh h thc ca Trung quc (1104); i vi nhng ngi ho kit
ha. (Quyn h. Tr. 306). chnh l tn ch ca Khng T. Khng nm Trung quc, chng (ch nh Minh) phn nhiu v trao cho quan tc ri
c iu ny m c sch ng th thnh em v an tr phng Bc (1417); Thng 8, nm 1426, vua L Thi T
ra nhng k sng bi c sch ng (phim ch sch v Trung Quc), ng t ban d cho c nc vit: Gic cn Trung quc, dn chng cn cha
gc nh ng trng sang soi chiu Nht Bn th lun xim nnh yn.(2) v.v.
nh ng v ring dng khi nim di r l gii Nht Bn, hon ton - Thin Tng kha h ng lc ca Trn Thi Tng khi bn v s qu
i ngc li tn ch Xun Thu ca Khng T. Khng T m sinh ra bu ca thn ngi c on vit: Ngi nay chng bit, li qu vt m
Nht Bn th s t Nht Bn lp ra tn ch Xun Thu. Hiu nh vy mi r thn, chng hay thn mnh c ba iu kh gp [] Mt l, trong lc
l ngi gii hc sch Xun Thu. Nay c Xun Thu m gi Nht Bn l o ch c ngi l qu [] c k b a xung o a ngc, A tu la, Ng
di r th khng phi do sch Xun Thu hi n o Nho, m do k khng qu, Sc sinh, khng c lm ngi [] Hai l, c sinh ra lm
gii c Xun Thu hi sch Xun Thu vy. Nh vy, Keisai quan nim
(2)
ngi nhng li c k sinh ra ni man di, tm th chung sng, nm th
r chn, sang hn ln, trai gi sng chung, chng m gi nhn, chng
nhun gio ha [] Ba l, c sinh ra Trung quc, nhng su cn
1. (Trung) Chin quc sch - Triu sch. Nguyn vn:
khng , bn th chng ton, m ic ngng cm [] tuy trong Hoa

2. (Nht) Trung Quc bin. Dn theo i Loan ng vn minh nghin cu hc khan. Q.3. K 2. Tr.96.
Nguyn vn: 1. Vietnam and the Chinese model. Tr.18-19.
2. (Vit) Ton th. Tp IV. Tr.135. T 14b. Nguyn vn: ; Tr.289. T 1b. Nguyn
vn: ; Tr.307. T 37b. Nguyn vn: bn dch
Vit vn hin nay ch dch l nc ta, trong nc.
 H cng ht nh ngoi hoang d. Nay lm
ngi, c sinh ra Trung quc, li c su
26
cn, h chng qu lm sao? (1)
- i Vit Lam sn D lng bi (son nm
1504) t ti lng vua L Hin Tng (di tch Lam
Kinh) c on vit: Trung quc vng mnh,
ngoi di khip hi.
- T s Mc ng Dung tu ln vua L vo
thng 12 nm 1517 xin git L Qung , i ni:
Tam cng ng thng l rng ct chng tri
t, l tr t yn sinh dn. Nc m khng
c cng thng th tuy l Trung H cng c khc
no di ch. Ngi m khng c cng thng th
tuy mc xim o, cng c khc no cm th.
Trung quc thnh cng, - Bc th cha Trnh Trng gi cho Ton
ngoi di chn ip (i
Vit Lam sn D lng bi quyn ng n H Lan ti Batavia (nay l Jakarta)
Di tch Lam Kinh. nh: nm 1637, c on vit: Nay ta c mong qu
Trn Quang c).
quan tit ch ca qu quc Lan (tc H Lan - TQ
ch) kt giao vi ta. Trn danh ngha chn chnh, hai nc m bc
thng yu, mi n mun i. Vy ct c hoc hai ba tu, hoc hai trm
lnh thin x n Trung quc ta, ly lm tin. v.v. (3)
Phi cng tm nhn nhn rng, vua ti nc Vit trong giai on
phong kin t ch xy dng ch theo m thc Trung Hoa, ly trt
t Hoa Di lm nn tng. M thc ny coi ci t hong ng tr l trung
tm thin h, tc Trung quc, Trung H, Hoa H. Hong thi hnh n
c, ng thi bo ban, dy d bn ci xung quanh, gi l vng ha,
hong ha. Cc vng bin vin, man di ngng m n c ca thin
triu phi thn phc v n triu cng; nhng k chng i, ng ngnh
1. (Vit) Thin Tng kha h ng lc - Quyn thng - Ph khuyn B tm. Nguyn vn:
[]
[] 1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: []
[][] . ,
[] 2. (Vit) C Vit Quc Thi y L cng thch bi minh t. Dn theo Th vn L Trn. Tp 1. Tr.464. Nguyn
2. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: vn: []
3. (Nht) Iwao Seiichi ."V bc th An Nam gi cho H Lan xin Hi qun H Lan gip . Dn
theo ng phng hc. K 23. Tr.109-118. Nguyn vn:
phi b tho pht. Vit Nam va nm trong h thng nhng nc triu
cng ca triu nh Trung Hoa, va thit lp ring mt h thng tng
27
ch - phin thuc i vi cc vng t v quc gia phng Nam. Quan
nim ny c th hin ht sc r rt qua cc t chiu, hch, vn khc
ghi cng ca vua ti nc Vit trc hoc sau khi tho pht cc tc ngi
thiu s v cc nc phng Nam, nh:
- Bi hch nh ng Ma Sa ca vua L Nhn Tng c on vit:
Trm coi triu h trong bn b u nh con . n ci xa cng mn
lng nhn m quy ph, phng khc cng m ngha m li chu. Nay
tn t trng hn nh ngi ngu xun, ph c ng cha, qun vic tu
cng.(1)
- Thi y Anh V nh L ni: bn man di quy H l ti ca
thn [] Nay cm ch thi mi, chp tay m chu mc hnh; trm cp
(2)
dn ven, mt mt m theo hong ha.(2)
- Vn khc Chinh Ai Lao k cng ma nhai ca Nguyn Trung Ngn
trn sn ni Trm Hng (Ngh An) nm 1335 c on vit: Vo thi
hong th su triu Trn nc
Hong Vit, Thi thng hong
Chng Nghiu Vn Trit c
tri ban mnh, gi t Trung H,
khp trong bn b, u cng thn
phc, Ai Lao cn con, dm chng
vng ha. Nm t Hi, ma thu,
thn chinh soi lnh su qun,
Thn chinh Phc L chu o Ct Hn bi vn.
nh Nam Hng, H Ni. i tun min Ty, th t nc
Chim Thnh, Chn Lp, Xim
La cng t trng man di o Thn, Qu Cm [] u dng phng vt,
tranh nhau nghnh n. Ma ng, ng qun cnh ng C n
Mt chu, lnh cho cc tng v qun lnh man di tin vo nc y.(3)
3. Vn khc Hn Nm Vit Nam. Tp 2. Tr.287. Nguyn vn:
[]
 - Vn khc trn vch vng Ty Bc Thn chinh Phc L chu o b, ko di chc lt, lm nh vy i vi t tin th no, i vi thin
Ct Hn do vua L Thi T ng ch cng c on vi i tng t: Bn h th no, i vi hu th th no?(1) Cn Matsumiya Kanzan (
28 29
di ch l mi ha vng bin cng, t xa c. Bn Hung N thi ), binh php gia Nht Bn th ni: Trm ngh, nc ta t xa vn
Hn, bn t Quyt thi ng, bn man mi Mng L pha Ty nc hin y, t xng l Trung chu, gi nc kia (ch Trung Quc - TQ
Vit ta cng vy. Va ri chnh tr Trn H suy vi, bn phin thn ngang ch) l Ty phin (phn giu pha Ty - TQ ch). S phn bit trong ngoi,
nhin ct c, Ct Hn gi nguyn thi c, a th him tr khng chu th ch rt l nghim ngt.(2) n thi Nguyn, i Nam thc lc cng
hi ci. Nay ta em qun tin nh, hai qun thy b cng tin, ct mt nh khng t sch v triu Nguyn gi
trn l dp yn. Nhn vit mt bi th ng lut, khc ln trn , ngi Vit l Hn nhn, Hn dn(3),
rn nhng tn t trng man di chng li vng ha i sau.(1) gi ngi Trung Quc l Thanh nhn,
- T chiu i nh Ai Lao ca vua L Thnh Tng thng 7 nm 1479 m Thanh nh vua Minh Mng tng
cng vit: Bc vng i xa ch ng di ch, phc tng th cu mang ni, T tin l ngi Mn [] Mn l
bng c, phn li th sm st ra oai [] Trm nay ni cng t tng, gi di r.(4) Thm ch, nhng ngi phng
c nghip ln, t Trung H, v yn ngoi di [] Hung chi, m dn Ty nh ngi Php, ngi Anh cng
chn man r ny, t lu nhim mi hi tanh ca loi ch Lo Qua, mun u tng b vua quan nh Nguyn gi
khi phc cng thng cho tc mi [] . Trong t chiu nh Bn
(2)
thng thng l Dng di.
Man, ng cn vit: Nc nh ta tm thu b ci, thng ng Hoa di . (3)
Quan nim Hoa di, c kt li c th
Quan nim Hoa di c y ln cao ti Vit Nam, Triu Tin v thy r nht qua s vic Lang trung L
Nht Bn sau khi triu nh phong kin Trung Hoa do ngi Hn tr v b Vn Phc sang Thanh, thy ngi Thanh
thay th bi ngi H phng Bc, c bit sau khi ngi Mn lm ch vit bn ch ln Vit di hi qun ln D ch t tng hch vn (Ton th.
Tp IV. Tr.206. T 13a) Vi Trung
Trung Quc, lp nn nh Thanh. Lc ny, ba nc u t nhn l quc vch tng, ng rt tc gin, trch
quc chi tng, th lp Di t nhi v
gia trung tm, ch th lu gi nn vn minh c phc v mit th gc gc mng quan Qun bn, nt mt v ging phn tm?
du mc vn khng c l gio ca tc ngi Mn Mng. cng chnh ni u rt d, khng chu vo qun, sau
l t tng n cha trong cu phn vn ca Hng o Vng trong D lnh hnh nhn x nt ch di i ri mi vo, on vit Bin di lun
ch t tng hch vn, sau khi ng k cho tng lnh nhng cu chuyn trn by. i lc ni: Vit Nam vn hu du ca Thnh Thn
y ngha kh thi Xun Thu: Cc ngi l tng ca Trung quc, phng Nng, l Hoa, chng phi di vy, o hc noi theo Khng Mnh Trnh
s t trng di r m khng thy cm phn? (4)
V pha Triu Tin, T Chu, php tun theo Chu Hn ng Tng, khng vn tt tc, vt
gin Jo Kyeong () by t: Nc ta xa nay ni danh thin h bi c tri nh ngi di. n nh vua Thun sinh ra Ch Phng, Vn Vng
l ngha, c gi vi tn Tiu Trung Hoa, k tha lit thnh, th nc sinh ra K Chu, ngi i cn chng dm coi vua Thun, Vn Vng
ln mt lng, cung knh cn thn, nay phng s gic H, trm yn tm l di, hung h dm coi ta l di ?(5)

1. (Hn) Triu Tin Nhn T thc lc - Q.32 - Mc Thng 2 nm Bnh T. Tr.8. Nguyn vn:
1. Nguyn vn:
?
2. (Nht) Tng Cung Quan Sn tp. Dn theo Tng chu bin khn Trung Quc. Tr.137. Nguyn vn:
2. (Vit) Ton th. Tp IV. Tr.425, t 20a, 21a. Nguyn vn: .
[][], 3. Ni dung chi tit ca cch gi ny, bn c c th tham kho cun Vng t Nam B di triu Minh Mng
ca Gs.Ts Choi Byung Wook. Tr.216-219.
3. (Vit) Ton th. Tp IV. Tr.424. T 17b. Nguyn vn: 4. (Vit) i Nam thc lc. Tp 2. Tr.270. Nguyn vn: []
4. (Vit) Ton th. Tp IV. Tr.206. T 13a. Nguyn vn: 5. (Vit) Quc s di bin Tp h. Mc ngy 10 thng 2 nm Thiu Tr th 1 (1841). Nguyn vn:
 Xut pht t t tng Hoa lm ch Trung Quc, gic
di, quy ch trang phc trong tc, mc o ngn, noi theo
30 31
cung nh Vit Nam phn ln thi c Mn Chu. o m
c tham kho t in chng, l tc Tng Minh v vy mt
ch ca triu nh Trung sch.(1) Bi Vn D nhn
Quc, mt trong nhng thc nh: Triu Thanh hng
o vn minh t trong bi cnh thi bnh lu ngy [...]
x hi ng thi. K t nm ring ch o m khng
939, Ng Quyn sau khi xng i. Tc Mn suy cho cng
o Cn 12 chng, m Min 12 lu, ngc khu.
Vua Khi nh nh Nguyn; Vua Long Hi i Hn vng ln u tin cho m thiu trang nh [...] T khi
quc.
phng quy ch o m ca nh triu Thanh lm ch Trung
ng th hin qua vic ly mu sc trang phc lm tiu ch phn bit Quc, bn phng phi Mao tit, mt trong nhng nghi trng ca vua quan
phong kin. 1. Mao tit ca nh Minh (Tam ti hi); 2.
phm trt ca b quan. Tip n, thi Tin L ti thi L u ln lt m co tc, i y phc. Hai
Mao tit ca Triu Tin (Triu Tin ng l ); 3. Mao tit
phng quy ch o mo ca nh Tng, nh du bi cc s kin p dng trm nm tr li y, tai ca quan nh Nguyn Vit Nam (K thut ngi An Nam
Cm c tuyt mao); 4. Mao tit trong cung nh triu
ch Triu phc nm 1006 v ch Cng phc nm 1059. Ring vi mt ngi ta quen c Nguyn (Bu vt triu Nguyn).
triu nh nh H, t sau ci cch thi Trn Thun Tng nm 1396 m [...] khng cn nhn ra kiu
thc cht do H Qu Ly thao tng, triu phc ca vn v b quan li quay dng Hoa H ngy xa na. S nc ta ti Yn Kinh, i mc phm phc,
v m phng theo ch trang phc ca nh Hn. Cc triu L, Nguyn c k nhn ra trm ngng m Hoa phong. Nhng bn khng c tr tu,
v sau chu nh hng mnh m t trang phc ca nh Minh, bt ngun phn nhiu tm tm ci a, thy m Phc u, Vng cn, ai o bn
t ci cch trang phc thi vua L Thi Tng nm 1437, c y mnh ch tr cho l kiu cch tung cho. Tc r H thay i con ngi ta n
vo khong nhng nm 1471 thi vua L Thnh Tng, v hon b vo mc phi ta thn nh vy y(2). Tc gi Nam s t k u thi Nguyn
nm 1500 thi vua L Hin Tng. i vi vi trang phc ca cc triu cng chp: Thanh Th t ln ngi, t nin hiu Thun Tr, thng nht
i Nguyn, Thanh, vua quan nc Vit thng t ra bi bc, khinh th. thin h, thay i y phc Trung Quc [] Nc Nam ta y phc vn nh
Nh vi trang phc ca nh Nguyn, vua Trn Minh Tng tng ni r: xa. Sau ny s nc ta n Yn Kinh, ph lo Trung Quc thy y phc
Ngn ng (ch ngn ng Hn quan phng) khng khc nhau nhiu, nhng o ca s ta u ri nc mt.(3) Nm 1830, chnh vua Minh Mng ni r:
m khng th ging nhau c.(1) Nguyn Tri nhn xt v khuyn co: Trm xem sch Hi in ca nc Thanh [] o m triu phc u theo
Ngi Ng (ch ngi Minh) lu ngy nhim thi tc ca ngi Nguyn, tc thi tc man di, khng phi ch phc sc ca c nhn, nh th li
xa, rng trng, o ngn m tay o di, m xim le lot, lp lp nh l cng sai tri, khng th lm khun php.(4)
vy [] khng nn noi theo lm lon quc tc.(2) Cn trang phc ca i vi trang phc dn gian, trong mt s phu ngi Vit, trang
triu nh Mn Thanh, nm 1696, s thn nh L cho bit ngi Thanh

1. (Vit) Cng mc. Nguyn vn:

2. (Vit) Du hin tng bt. Nguyn vn:[][]
L Vn Phc lm []
chnh s i s sang Yn Kinh nm 1841, ton b bi Bin Di lun c chp trong Chu nguyn tp vnh tho ,
mang k hiu VHv.1146 Th vin Hn Nm, chng ti cung cp ti phn ph lc sau chng ny.
1. (Vit) Th vn L Trn. Tp 2. Tr.740. Nguyn vn: 3. (Vit) Nam s t k - L Trung Hng - Chn Tng Thun hong . Nguyn vn:
2. (Vit) c Trai di tp - Q.6 - D a ch. Nguyn vn: []
[] 4. (Vit) i Nam thc lc - Q.70. Nguyn vn:
 phc ca ngi dn cc ca ta(1); n nhng sc lnh ci i thi tc ca dn man theo thun
nc phng Nam v cc phong ca ngi Vit din ra lin tip di thi vua Minh Mng, m
32 33
sc dn thiu s u b coi mt trong nhng ni dung quan trng chnh l vic hng ngi man
l qu kch, th thin. Nh i mc qun o ca ngi Kinh Vit. Nh nm 1829, vua Minh Mng
quan nh Mc l Dng xung d ban tn h cho cc th lnh ngi man c on vit: i sa
Vn An (1514 - 1591) nhn i phong tc t phi dn dn, m ng vng gi dy bo no c phn
xt vng T Vinh (Hu): bit. Ln ny bn th ty y theo v phong ha, mc xim o ca ta,
C ngi ni ting Hu, nhng nu c cho c tn m khng c h, h phi l ca trm coi mi
mc vy Chm, thi y rt ngi nh nhau? [...] i i tun phng, phn r h hng, theo lun
1. Nguyn Tri (Bo tng Lch s Vit Nam); 2. Nguyn qu v th thin, trong thng, u i n o ln, khin ngy cng nhum gi Hoa phong.(2).
Qu Knh (Bo tng M thut Vit Nam). khi dn vng chu c Nm 1834 ngi Thy X sai s n cng, vua Minh Mng c li d
cch n vn nh Trung Hoa th c coi l khng c g l thng(1). rng:Thnh nhn dng H bin di, nn ly l ngha dy bo, khin dn
Ng Th Nhm tng c li th th hin nim t ho l bc k lo t dn i thnh thi Hoa H. Bn thng cho s thn y c b o m trc
Vit, vn o mo chnh t, tht dy thao, eo ngc bi, rt vn minh, k hn. Hm trm ng in, chun cho s thn y vo triu cng,
rt Hoa. ng vit: tn mt thy bn h o m chnh t, qu ly thung dung, u hp l tit,
trm rt ly lm khen ngi [] Li thng cho chnh s ly h l Lnh,
M mang c trc sau,
vn dng tn c l Duyn, ph s h l Kiu vn dng tn c l Ti, ng
u ring Trung Quc c
hu bit c h tn, ngy mt nhum gi Hoa phong.(3) ng ng thi
May sinh nc Nam,
cn ni:Thnh nhn dng H bin di, c th em l ngha ra dy bo th
ng hong thn o mo,
loi c mai vy cng c th thay i m bit mc xim o.(4) Thng 12
Ch bo ta chng Hoa,
nm 1835, ng tip tc c li d: t man l thuc bn ca ta t
Vit Thng c k lo.(2)
lu, dn man cng l con ca ta, phi nn bo ban du dt, ngy
c bit, khc vi cc triu i L - Trn coi Tam gio ng tn m mt nhim theo Hn phong [] Phm nhng th cn dng u phi hc
trong o Pht c v th p o, cc triu i L - Nguyn v sau vi tp Hn dn, chm vic lm lng. n nh ngn ng th bo h dn dn
cc chnh sch c tn Nho thut c nhng ci nhn kht khe, khinh tp ni Hn m. n ung v o qun cng dy cho dn dn theo Hn tc.
th i vi phong tc ca cc sc dn phng Nam. Quan nim Hoa Di Ngoi ra, h c iu g phi i b thi h lu m lm cho gin tin d
lc ny tr nn tiu cc, v l mt trong nhng nguyn nhn chnh thc dng th cng ty c ch bo. Thng cm h du l man mi, nhng cng
y triu nh L, Nguyn thc thi cc chnh sch dng H bin di. K
t vic vua L Thnh Tng nh Bn Man, Chim Thnh c m t:
1. (Vit) i Vit Lam Sn Chiu Lng bi. Dn theo Cc th vn ch Hn Vit Nam. Tr.305. Nguyn vn:
Bn Man bng nghe gio ha th h lnh cy xi gc r ca chng, Sn
Man quy ri vng bin th ct qun qut sch so huyt ca chng []
2. (Vit) Hi in Q.134 Nhu vin Ban cp sc mnh. Nguyn vn:
bt dn chng mc o xim ca ta, khin t chng thnh qun huyn []

3. (Vit) Hi in Q.133 Nhu vin T d thuc quc. Nguyn vn:
1. (Vit) chu cn lc. Tr.252. Nguyn vn: []
2. (Vit) Tuyn tp Ng gia vn phi. Tp 1. Tr.614. Hon Nh ngm. Nguyn vn: []
[] 4. (Vit) i Nam thc lc - Chnh bin - nh k - Q.132. Tr.36 (A.2772/ 27). Nguyn vn:

 c lng tri v lng nng [] Hun c vng, t ra b quan v nghi l
thm nhun, dng H bin di, y cng trong triu, ng thi quy nh ly
34 35
l mt ng li thay i phong tc. (1)
mu sc trang phc phn bit
Nh vy c th thy, t tng phm trt ca b quan(1), nh
vng v quan nim Hoa di c du s p dng ln u tin v
nhng nh hng mang tnh quyt chnh thc quy ch phc sc ca
nh n vic la chn trang phc cung nh ng vo cung nh nc
nh Vit Nam. Sau khi vn hin, phong Vit. Bi trang phc ca b quan
tc Trung Hoa thm nhp v ha Trung Quc n thi ng mi
quyn vi cc yu t bn a tr thnh bt u c phn bit da trn
mt phn ca vn ha bn a th t mu sc o(2). Sau khi xng nm
L phc B Bin thi Hn. (Tam l
Long triu Nguyn (Bo tng c vt
vic s dng ngn ng Hn trong quan 968, nm 975, vua inh cng nh thi Tng).
cung nh Hu). phng n vic p dng l li, l nghi ra o m cho vn v b quan.(3)
c in ca Trung Quc vo cuc sng Nhng quy nh c th ca trang phc cung nh thi Ng - inh, hu
cung nh, triu nh Vit Nam, Triu Tin, Nht Bn u khng cn nh khng th truy kho, song qua ghi chp ca s thn nh Tng l
khi nim vay mn hay bt chc. i vi cc quc gia ny, vn Tng Co v cuc sng ca vua quan i C Vit thi Tin L khi c
minh Trung Hoa sm tr thnh mt sn phm chung, mt kho d yn hi, ngi vo d tic u phi ci ai, m(4), v m t ca ngi
liu m h c quyn s dng, v c quyn t to cho mnh mt nn Nguyn v quan i Vit triu Trn mt trng rng en, tht ai, i
vn hin, in chng khng thua km Trung Quc . (2)
m, mc o ng(5), c th thy li trang phc ai - m kiu ng
2. Lc s trang phc cung nh Vit Nam nhiu kh nng c nh hnh t thi Ng vng v ko di n thi
Trang phc quan phng ca Vit Nam t thi inh tr v trc Trn. Ngoi ra, vo thi vua L Hon, qua nhng ghi chp ngn gn
hin kh c th truy kho. Ch bit khong t nm 86 Ut Lm, Nht ca Tng Co, ta cn c bit trang phc ca vua ti i C Vit thi
Nam, Liu ng, Lc Lng, thi Chu hoc xa tc, hoc bi tc chuy k ny c v kh sc s. Tng Co m t: (Binh lnh) mc nhng
k, nay i m B Bin. (3)
Nm 808, An Nam h kinh lc s l chic o tp sc u tr ln trn ba ch Thin t qun, li cho bit
Trng Chu trong khi cai tr An Nam i B Bin thnh ai- L Hon hay mc o c hoa vn v mu , m ly trn chu trang
M (4)
theo li trang phc ca nh ng; thng tin ny nm trong sc.(6) Cui thi Tin L, nm 1006, vua L Long nh i quan ch,
vn bia ca ngi cng tch ca h Trng, cho nn c th li ngi Triu phc nht nht noi theo ch nh Tng(7). Triu phc (trang

son c phn khoa trng. Song vo nm 939, Ng Quyn xng phc mc trong cc bui l) ca nh Tng c ba loi m Lng Quan vi ba
kiu: Tin Hin, iu Thin, Gii Tri, cn Cng phc (trang phc dng

1. (Vit) i Nam thc lc - Chnh bin - nh k - Q.163. Tr.11 (A.2772/ 32). Nguyn vn:
[]
1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
[] 2. Trung Quc y quan phc sc i t in. Tr.193.
2. Dn li L Qu n. (Vit) Ton Vit thi lc - L ngn. Nguyn vn: (Vn minh khng km 3. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
Trung Quc); (Vit) i Vit thng s- T. Nguyn vn: (Vn vt in chng rt 4. (Trung) Tng s - Giao Ch truyn. Nguyn vn:
p, khng km Trung Quc). 5. (Trung) o di ch lc. Nguyn vn:
3. (Trung) Lun hng - Q.19 - Khi quc. Nguyn vn: 6. (Trung) Tng s - Giao Ch truyn. Nguyn vn: []
[]
4. (Trung) Liu H ng tp - Q.10. Nguyn vn: 7. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
 khi x l cng v, thi ny ng ngha vi Thng phc)
m Phc u . Ton th cng ghi nhn s tn
(1)
36
ti ca loi m Lng Quan vo thi L, ng thi
cho bit nm 1059, nh L lnh cho b quan phi
i m Phc u, i hia mi c vo triu, vic
i m Phc u, i hia bt u t . (2) Nh vy,
ch Triu phc v Cng phc ca b quan nh
Tng ln lt c p dng vo triu nh i Vit
vi mc nm 1006 v nm 1059.
Ch trang phc ca nh Trn v c bn
k tha ch ca nh L. Tuy nhin, tnh n
duy c Song n thng 5 nm 1437 thi vua L Thi Tng, mt cuc tranh ci
ny la gia phe bo th mun gn gi ch c Trn - H v phe cp
37
tin mun du nhp ch o m triu nghi mi ca nh Minh din
ra, m ng u hai phe l Nguyn Tri v Lng ng. Do s thiu
khuyt s liu v s chn ch ca Nguyn Tri, vua L Thi Tng
chun theo tu ngh ca Lng ng du nhp mt phn ch phm
phc ca nh Minh, theo vo dp i l vua mc o Cn, i m
Min, Thng triu i m Xung Thin, mc Hong bo; mng mt,
ngy rm, b quan mc Cng phc, i Phc u; Thng triu i
m Sa, o c trn. Nm 1437, vua L Thi Tng ng thun vic du
nhp dng o m Cng phc v Thng phc mi ca nh Minh (lc

trc thi im nm 1396, nh Trn c hai t ci
ai - M. Quan thi
ng cm ht trong cch trang phc Thng triu cho b quan, ln
B lin . th nht din ra vo nm 1254, ln th hai sau
46 nm. T nm 1301, kiu dng o m Thng triu ca b quan u
c ch mi. Lc ny, m Phc u ca thi L b ph b, thay vo
l m inh T. Ring Tng quan c quy nh i m Ton Hoa
mu xanh. Vng hu hoc i m Triu Thin, hoc i m Bao Cn
ty xem h tc di hay ct ngn. Ngoi ra, trong ch quan phc
L Trn cn c s xut hin ca quy ch Ng i, th trang sc c hnh
con c, mc vo ai t s sang trng, vinh hin, phng theo ch
quan phc nh Tng, m xa hn l nh ng. Trang phc nh H k
tha ch o m nh Trn sau ci cch nm 1396 vi nhng chic
m Khc Phi, Vin Du, Thi C, Cao Sn v.v. vn l cc loi m mo
ca b quan nh Hn, th hin r tm l sng c v mun c s khu
bit v vn vt ca nh H. Vi nhiu l do, nh H ch gi ngi c 7
nm, mt ln na sau 1000 nm Bc thuc, t nc li ri vo ch
thng tr ca Trung Hoa.
L Li pht c khi ngha Lam Sn, sau 10 nm thu li c ton
vn lnh th, ti thit triu nh i Vit. Sau khi k cng c lp
li, quan ch v trang phc triu nh L s u tun theo ch Trn
- H, th hin vic s dng rng ri m Cao Sn cho vn v b quan.
1. Trung Quc phc sc thng s. Tr.110.
2. Nhng thng tin lin quan n trang phc cung nh t thi L ti thi Nguyn trong phn tng quan ny
chng ti khng tip tc s dng cc ch.
ny khi nim Cng phc khng cn ng nht vi khi nim Thng phc), lm tin
cho nm 1471, vua L Thnh Tng tip tc du nhp ch phm phc
B t, v nm 1486 quy nh b quan vo triu phi i m Sa vi
hai cnh nht lot hng v pha trc. Ch Sa - B phc l ch
B t (vung vi thu hnh chim th nh trc ngc b quan vn v phn bit phm cp). 1. B
t Tin hc ca nh Minh (Chc t trn phm); 2. B t Tin hc ca Triu Tin (BTCCQLSU);
3. B t Tin hc ca nh Nguyn (A History of Embroidery in China, Korea, Japan and Vietnam).
o m c th khu bit kh k chc tc, phm trt ca b quan, vy
nn nh Thanh, nh Triu Tin, Lu Cu (nay l tnh Okinawa, Nht Bn) v
nh Nguyn sau ny u tham chc m phng. n thi vua L Hin
Tng, nm 1500, triu nh i Vit thc hin ci cch i vi chic
m Phc u, trong bao gm vic sa i kiu dng cnh chun v
quy nh trang sc vng bc trn m tip tc phn bit phm cp
mt cch k lng hn. Cc triu vua L v sau cho n thi nh Mc
cng c mt s ln thay i quy ch m mo phm phc, song nhn
chung vn da trn ch c bn c xc lp t thi vua L Thnh
Tng, L Hin Tng.
 Sau nhng ng lon cui thi L Thin, Cu Long ng Cn ca hong , m Phc u, H u,
s, bc vo thi L Trung Hng, vua Xun Thu ca b quan vi khng t trang sc vng bc nh Bc sn,
38 39
L dn dn ch cn h v, cn cn quyn kha gin, giao long cng nhng tm Long bo, Mng bo thu dy c
lc ng sang cha Trnh, khin mt phn hoa vn rng my, sng nc mang li cm gic ngp mt chnh l
quy ch o m dnh cho thin t nh L c trng ca trang phc cung nh triu Nguyn.
b lc b. Trc y, b quan c Triu Nh vy c th thy ch o m ca triu nh nc Vit
phc, Thng phc mc vo chu vua, thng xuyn din ra cc t ci cch, sa i, xut pht t tm l
th nay cn c thm b trang phc mun khng nh s tin b v khc bit v vn vt trong s i snh
mc ring vo vng ph hu cha. Vi gia cc vng triu ni b nc Vit v trong s i snh gia vng
B phc. Thng phc ca quan nhng bin c cung nh lin tip din ra triu Vit Nam vi vng triu Trung Quc. Bn cnh , hu qu
i Vit thi L (m Sa, o c
trn nh B t) v quan Vit Nam
trong giai on ny, cng s cng knh ca nhng t ph hy kinh thnh, sch v ca qun Chim v qun
thi Nguyn (m ng Pha, o ca b my quan liu k t na cui Minh trong th k XIII, XIV cng nhng ng lon ca ni chnh nh
giao lnh nh B t) trong Hong
Thanh chc cng (Q.1 v Q.9).
giai on L Trung Hng, quy ch trang L trong sut nhng th k XVII, XVIII cng l nhng nguyn nhn
phc ca b quan cng ht sc hn lon, chnh khin vic ti thit ch triu nghi, phm phc ca triu nh
buc Tham tng Nguyn Cng Hng nm 1721 sau khi i s sang nh tr nn bc thit.
Thanh phi tm kim in chng c ca nh Minh v t nh li ch
phm phc cho c ng n. Trang phc cung nh nh L lc
ny tip tc thu nhn cc kiu dng hoa vn, trang tr ca Trung Quc
giai on cui Minh u Thanh. Cng k t y, trang phc b quan
vo hu cha tip tc c phn lm hai b: mt b mc khi cha coi
chnh s ph v mt b mc khi cha tip
khch cc.
Mt khc, cha Nguyn t khi vo
phng Nam m ci dn dn c nh c
lp vi triu nh cha Trnh ng Ngoi.
n thi cha Nguyn Phc Khot, nm
1744, cha t xng vng, quyt thay i Bin khnh ca nh Nguyn (Bu vt triu Nguyn), nh Tng (Tam l )
v nh Triu Tin (Bo tng c cung quc lp Seoul. nh: TQ).
nghi l, trang phc t cung nh cho n dn
gian ng Trong u nht lot theo phong
kh mi. T vic k tha mt phn trang phc
ca nh L, tham kho hnh dng o m
trong Tam ti hi ca nh Minh, c bit
ph bin kiu o c ng ci khuy, vua cha
triu Nguyn qu nhin to nn mt ci
Triu phc ca quan triu
y quan vn hin khc hn vi cc triu i Nguyn: m Phc u, Mng
trc y. Nhng chic m Cu Long Thng bo T linh. (nh: Alber Kahn).
 II. TRANG PHC DN GIAN VIT NAM phc dn gian Vit Nam khng ch c
TC NHUM RNG EN
vi kiu dng o qun n nht, song
40 41
(Trung) Lnh ngoi i p m t ngi thng c mt vi kiu trang phc
thi L: Ngi nc y o thm, rng
c bit thnh hnh mi thi on
en. (Trung) o di ch lc m t
ngi thi Trn: Nam n mt trng khc nhau.
rng en. (Hn) Triu Tin vng
Thi k Bc thuc ko di sut triu thc lc (Tc Tng. Q.23. Nm
C th ni, khc vi tnh cht
mt thin nin k trn nc Vit, 1691) m t s thn thi L: Thng phc tp v s vn ng ring bit
xuyn nhai tru cau, gp khch ming
nhng cha lc no ngi Vit ngui vn nhai, rng u en nh sn. (Vit)
ca trang phc cung nh, trang
ngoai kht vng c lp, m minh An Nam phong tc sch miu t tc phc dn gian Vit Nam nhn chung
nhum rng thi Nguyn: Trai gi hn
chng l cc cuc khi ngha ca hai 10 tui, rng sa thay ht, rng mi
kh n nh v kiu dng v hnh
B Trng, B Triu, Mai Thc Loan, mc u th ai ny bt u nhum rng. thc, c bit l trang phc ca tng
Cch lm l ly cnh kin tn nh ha
Phng Hng, Khc Tha D, Dng vi nc chua thnh thuc, qut ln l lp thng dn. Vo thi L Trn, o
nh Ngh v.v. chng li s cai tr ca cau, bui m dn ln rng, lm hn c trn l kiu o ph bin ca c
mi ln nhum thnh mu . Li ly
triu nh phng Bc. Khng th phn en ha ln vi thuc trn dn vo n ng v n b. Ring n ng
ph nhn, trong thi k b h ko rng dm ba ln th nhum thnh cn quy Thng, mt dng vy
Bnh ng vi v ci tru ca ngi mu en. n ng nhum mt ln, n
di, ngi Vit tip nhn kh nhiu b nhum lm nhiu ln, rng phi en quy bn ngoi qun la, di vt o
Thi. (Bo tng quc gia Thi. Dn theo
Trin lm vn vt folklore ng Nam thnh t ca vn minh Trung Hoa, nhnh mi cho l p. T in; n b chung mc o giao
Phi-Thi-Vit-n).
nhng cc tp tc truyn thng trong lnh c ln. Thi k ny, o t thn
li sng, trong sinh hot, trong li n ting ni hng ngy vn c c may bng bn kh vi, hai vt song song bung di xung pha
ngi Vit lu gi bn chc. trc xut hin, y cng l mt trong nhng kiu o ph bin ca
Sau khi nh nc phong kin - qun ch ca ngi Vit c to ph n Vit Nam c k tha qua sut thi Trn, L. Bc sang thi L,
lp, mi triu i mi dng ln lun quan tm n vic ti thit triu kiu o chung ca n ng v n b l o giao lnh (c o vt cho, cn gi
nghi, phm phc, song ring vi trang phc dn gian, triu nh Vit Nam l o trng vt). n ng lao ng, lnh trng vn lu gi tc ng kh nh
nhn chung u mun dn chng gi nguyn phong tc vn c. V nh ngi thi L - Trn; n b tip tc duy tr b trang phc ym - vy, o
thng 5 nm 1437, vua L Thi Tng chun tu ngh ca Lng t thn. T khi cha Nguyn ct c phng Nam, nc Vit phn lm
ng, p dng mt phn ch trang phc ca nh Minh vo trang phc vng quc ng Trong v ng Ngoi, nm 1744, cha Nguyn Phc
cung nh, trong khi n thng 12 li ra lnh cho ngi Minh i Khot h lnh thay i ton b trang phc dn gian ng Trong. Ti thi
Vit phi nht lot mc o v ct tc ngn theo phong tc ca ngi Kinh im ny, kiu dng o di c ng ci khuy c ph bin, trong sut
bn a.(1) iu ny tip tc c minh chng qua chnh sch khoan ha thi Nguyn v sau, loi o ny khng ngng thay i v di rng ca
ca vua Quang Trung trong chiu ln ngi, khi ng cho php y phc dn ng tay, vt o, c o, dn dn thay th trang phc o c trn v o giao
gian Nam H, Bc H u c theo tc c, ch c m o trong triu th lnh ca cc triu i trc y.
nht lot tun theo quy nh mi Nhn chung, triu nh Vit Nam t Mt mt khc, c th ni s chng i lm lon ca ngi Giao
thi L n thi L u khng c chnh sch bt p thay i trang phc Ch trong khong 1000 nm Bc thuc chc hn dy ln bi chnh
dn gian trong ton quc, ngoi tr triu Nguyn sau ny. D nhin, trang sch tham tn ca cc thi th v nhng rng buc g b ca l li Trung
Hoa, nhng ng thi n cng phn no th hin bn tnh a t do ca
1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: ngi Vit. C iu, v sau, tnh thoi mi trong thi quen sinh hot
 nh vy?(1) Tuy th, thi thong ta vn thy mt vi hnh vi thoi mi
ca cc quan chn cung nh, nh vic cc quan nh L thoi mi nh
42 43
nc ct tru, nh b ra ca v sn an Tr dn n lnh cm ca triu
nh vo thng 11 nm 1473(2) v.v.
Bn tnh bo th, gi gn bn sc ch
thc s c y mnh v tr nn quyt
lit vo nhng thi k ngi Vit nhn
thy c nguy c b ng ha vn ha, cn
trong thi bnh, h li t ra kh linh hot
trong vic tip thu cc nn vn ha xung
o vng. K n thi Nguyn, nm 1915, mc o nm thn mu vng (nh:
Albert Kahn); Ngi Tonkin nm 1714, mnh ph mc o giao lnh mu quanh. Lc ny, chnh nhng ngi tr v
vng. (Th gii nhn vt quyn); n ng thi L Trung Hng xa tc t nc li thc v vic bo tn truyn
i nn, mc o giao lnh mu vng (Hong Thanh chc cng ).
thng. Khng t ln ngi dn phng
nhiu khi ln ti v php tc dn n vic thi no cng c ngi theo li n mc, thm ch ni pha ting
dn c gan vn qun o mu vng, sc phc lun c triu nh Vit ngi Minh, Thanh, Chim, Lo khin
Nam quy nh dnh ring cho thin t. S ln vt ty nh ny chng triu nh phi ban lnh cm, nh nm
bit bt u t khi no, ch bit nm 1182, vua L Cao Tng cm 1375, nh Trn - H cm qun dn mc Khn xp, o the, b trang phc in
hnh ca nam gii triu Nguyn, l n
thin h khng c mc trang phc mu vng(1), sau khi nh Minh kiu o ca ngi phng Bc v phng tng mc nh ca nhiu ngi Vit
h nc ta cng nhiu ln ra lnh cm dn gian mc o mu vng(2). ting ni ca ngi Chim, Lo (Ton v trang phc ca ng cha. Tuy nhin,
dng o c ng ci khuy nh hnh v
Nm 1448, vua L Nhn Tng vn ra lnh cho b L tuyn b li lnh th). Nguyn Tri bnh xt: Ngi trong ph bin t th k XVIII. Trc ,
cm dn gian mc mu vng v by gi thi tc chung s xa hoa, ln nc khng c bt chc ting ni v nam gii ngi Vit phn ln mc o
giao lnh - trng vt. (Chn dung Chu
vt.(3) n tn nm 1916, vua Khi nh cng phi ph rng: Ngy trang phc ca cc nc Ng, Chm, Lo, Vn An, v nm 1995).
trc khi trm cn l hong t lun thy dn chng c nhiu ngi n Xim, Chn Lp lm lon quc tc.
mc qun o mu vng, nh th l phm lut. Nn ng thi sc cho Li cm ch ni rng: Ting Ng ton m li, phi chuyn ng sau mi
Ph Tha Thin yt bng nghim cm t nay tr i nhn dn khng c hiu c. Ting Lo ton m hng. Ting Xim, Chm, Chn Lp ton
n mc qun o c mu vng v nhng mu sc gn vi mu vng c m hu, nghe nh ting chim b lao. Ngi Ng lu ngy nhim thi tc
s phn bit.(4) ca ngi Nguyn, tc xa, rng trng, o ngn m tay o di, m xim
Trong khi triu nh n np vn nghim ngt v g b hn le lot, lp lp nh l vy. Ngi Minh tuy khi phc o m Hn ng
nhiu so vi chn dn gian, cho nn c lc th lc ln t vua, t thn xa, nhng thi tc khng i. Ngi Lo dng vi len qun ngi trng
Nguyn Cng Hng ngh cha Trnh Cng vn o mu vng tip nh o Thy in ca nh Pht. Ngi Chm dng khn che v i, l
kin qun thn, nhng ng vn mt mc t chi: Talc no cng coi hnh th. Xim La, Chn Lp dng vi bc lin t tay n u gi nh bc
s tn knh lm lng. Mu vng l sc phc ca thin t, ta u dm lm xc cht, u khng nn noi theo lm lon quc tc.(3) Ngoi ra, thng

1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: 1. (Vit) Cng mc. Nguyn vn: . ,
2. (Trung) An Nam ch nguyn. Tr.253. Nguyn vn: 2. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
3. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: 3. (Vit) c Trai di tp - Q.6 - D a ch. Nguyn vn:
4. (Vit) ng Khnh Khi nh chnh yu. Tr.431.
 8 nm 1499, vua L Hin Tng xung chiu
Ph lc
cm trn t thn vng, di n dn
44 45
chng, u khng c ly n b con gi BIN DI LUN
Chim Thnh lm v, cho phong tc c
thun hu(1); nm 1696, 1717, 1727 nh L
lin tc cm ngi trong nc khng c Khc Trai L Vn Phc
m phng trang phc, ting ni v u tc (Chp trong Chu nguyn tp vnh tho)
ca ngi Thanh; nhng ngi Thanh c
ng ti nc Vit u phi nht nht tun Nguyn vn:
theo phong tc bn quc, ai vi phm s b
trc xut(2).
Tm li, mt phn do s bo th ca
ngi Vit, mt phn do quy nh ca triu
nh m li n vn trong dn gian qua cc
triu i khng bin i nhiu. Ch n thi
1. Ph n thi L mc o giao lnh Nguyn, c bit di thi vua Minh Mng,
(Hong Thanh chc cng ); 2. ngi dn Vit Nam mi ln u tin b p
Ph n thi L mc o c trn bn
vt (Vn quan vinh quy . Bo phi thay i trang phc thng ngy, b
tng M thut Vit Nam); 3. Ph cm s dng cc loi o t thn, vy p, Quan nh Nguyn nm
n thi Nguyn mc o t thn 1915 (nh: Albert Kahn).
khn vung, kh v.v. bt k nam n nht
(Vit Nam t in); 4. Ph n thi
Nguyn mc o di ci khuy, vn nht u phi mc o di nm thn ci
khn (Tranh T n).
khuy. Tuy nhin, ngoi chic o di nm
thn c t nh nm 1744 m n thi Nguyn tr thnh quc phc
- tin thn ca chic o di nh ta thy ngy nay - cc loi o c trn,

trng vt, t thn cn hin din n u th k XX u l nhng dng

thc trang phc dn gian lu hnh ph bin qua cc thi k trc .











1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
2. (Vit) Lch triu tp k. Tr.143-145.
 Ty Nam st vch Xim La, cc thuc quc cn li v tc man di khc
nhau ni ph u c, tht l mt i quc sng sng gia tri t.
46 47
(Lc ny) coi l th tc cng khng c, coi l qun huyn cng khng
c, hung h c th coi l di sao? Song y tm c vi li nng cn
nh vy .
Bn v php tr nc th noi nh tam vng, bn v o thng th
Dch ngha: noi lc kinh t t, coi Khng Mnh l nh, coi Chu Trnh l ca. V hc
T xa, c Trung Hoa th c di ch, y l s ngn cch t nhin vn th coi T, Quc l ngun, coi Ban, M l nhnh. V vn chng th
ca tri t. Hoa l Hoa m di l di, cng l s phn bit nghim minh th ph noi Chiu Minh, Vn Tuyn, xem L, l tm gng; th ha
ca thnh hin. Hoa l Hoa, bt k bn thn vn minh khng man mi, theo Chu l, Lc th, coi Chung, Vng l m phm. Chiu hin i s, y
hay khng man mi nhng li b coi l man mi, u khng th khng khoa c Hn ng vy. ai rng m cao, y y phc Tng Minh vy. C
bin lun cho r rng c. Xt, di c gi l vy m suy, i nh th. Xt, n vy m vn gi l di th ta cng chng
di, kinh truyn thnh hin coi l k khc (khng bit th no mi l Hoa vy. C k ngh lun cao minh ni rng: Thun l
phi ging ni ta - TQ ch) nn Chu cng phi ngi ng di, Vn vng l ngi Ty di, trong kinh truyn c ni n,
tho pht. C sao vy? C bn chuyn lm vic nhng di y tn hi g? H khng bit ch l li ni ch ni cc ngi sinh
bo ngc khng bit l ngha danh phn, nh ra thi. Thun vn l Thun, Vn vng vn l Vn vng, t khi c th
Kinh S thi xa; cng li c bn em c nc tch n gi c th tch no gi Thun l di chng, gi Vn vng l di
ra lm tr d hm, bt chp cng thng o vng chng? Cng c k lun bn th thin rng: Chc l do ting ni,
ngha ca ngi ta, nh bn man di gio quyt trang phc khc l nn coi l di thi. Nh vy cng khng ng. C
ng Ty Dng thi nay vy; gi chng l di ni chuyn trc mt, nh mt tnh Phc Kin, l ni cn di gio ca thy
l v cch lm ca chng. Chu Kho nh, ring vng Tuyn Chng, ngi y thng i khn
Nc Vit ta l phng y chng? Nc thay m, vy l trang phc khc l chng, c th v th m coi l di chng?
Vit ta khng phi chng vy, m l hu du Li nh mi tm tnh ngn ng khc nhau, ting nh qu v ting nh
ca Vim , h Thn Nng, bc thnh Trung quan cng khc nhau, vy l ting ni khc l chng, c th v th m coi
quc thi c vy. Thi c l vng hoang vin, l di chng?
cha khai ha, by gi coi l di th c. thu hiu ci ngha Hoa di, nn tm trong vn chng l ngha,
Nhng n thi Chu l Vit Thng, coi vy th li lun bin ca ti cng chng cn vit ra, ti u c a bin
l th tc, cc i sau l Giao Ch, coi l qun lun, l do ti bt c d m thi.
huyn, cha bao gi gi l di c. Hung h, t Li bn lun ny sau khi vit ra, n tay Tn tng c, ng tuyn b ti ch:
thi Trn, L, quc th An Nam ngy cng m Qu s ln ny n y, bn c t dng l s thn i i, khng dm coi l
rng, n nay gp bi ln, pha Bc gip ba ngoi di na. Sau s phu Trung chu ni nhau sao chp, c nhiu ngi vit
Ti Vit Nam, quy ch o Cn
m Min b ph b vo thi L tnh Qung ng, Qung Ty, Vn Nam ca thm li bnh phm ngi ca. C ng L Chn Nhn l Nho hc Hun o, tnh
Trung Hng v c khi phc Trung chu; pha Ty khng ch cc tc man cc khng khi, sau khi thy o m nc ta lin nm m ca mnh xung t
vo thi Nguyn. Ti Trung
Quc, quy ch ny b ph b di, tip vi cc nc Nam Chng, Min in; ni rng: Ta l di ri, sao li coi ngi ta l di y?
vo thi Thanh. Trong nh l pha ng trng ra b ln, m bc cc o;
quan nh Nguyn mc Cn
Min dn theo BAVH. pha Nam cng chm ti bin, vng qua pha
 CHNH VN

Chng I. TRANG PHC THI L

Nm 984 vua L Hon cho dng in Bch Bo Thin Tu c ct

dt vng dt bc ti ni Ha Vn lm ni coi chu, li cho dng
in Long Lc lp mi bng ngi bc(1). Cc vt phm vua L Hon
v vua L Long nh cng sang nh Tng phn ln l khm vng
bc chu bu, nh trong ba t triu cng nm 990, 997, 998 l nhng
chic gh rng phng khm vng bc cng by loi qu; nm 1001
li cng thm chic bnh khm vng bc tht bo(2). Vi tnh cch xa
x ny, vua L Hon chung mc o mu c hoa vn sc s, m
trang sc bng ngc chu. Bc sang thi L, phong kh vng gi ca
triu nh i Vit tip tc c m t gin tip qua nhng cng vt
rt thnh em biu nh Tng nh nm 1156, cc ch vit trong tu
biu a ln u bng vng, cng phm qu bn l trang sc bng
chu bu; cng trn chu th c 3 vin to nh qu c, 6 vin to c ht
mt, 24 vin nh ht o, 17 vin nh ht mn, 50 vin nh ht to,
c thy 100 vin, u ng trong bnh vng(3); nm 1173 tin dng
mt trp biu chng mng vua Tng ln ngi tng ng 330 lng

1. (Vit) i Vit s lc. Nguyn vn: []

2. (Trung) Tng hi yu tp co - Phin Di - Giao Ch v Tng s - Giao Ch truyn u ghi chp r cc cng
phm ny. Loi gh chng ti cp, nguyn vn gi l Tht bo trang long phng t,
hoc Kim ngn tht bo , hoc D kim ngn tht bo trang giao (gh
Giao trang sc bng vng bc tht bo)
3. (Trung) Lnh ngoi i p. Tr.58. Nguyn vn:

Khc vi con s 1.200 lng vng trong sch

Lnh ngoi i p, sch Tng hi yu tp co chp s vng cng sang l 1.136 lng. S lng trn chu u
chp ging nhau.
 vng, mt c bnh voi tng ng 40 vng T Giang, Hu Giang c nhiu m vng, lm k v li cp
lng vng, mt chic v trang sc cho bc, bun bn dn chng vo Giao Ch.(1) Triu Tn i phu nh Tng
50 51
ng voi tng ng 50 lng vng, mt l Trnh Tng cho bit c th: Bn du khch min Nam thng d d
chic trang sc trn voi tng ng ngi ta lm ti , phu cng. a n chu ng lin tri em bn, c
120 lng vng, hai mt sa la, nm chic mt ngi ly hai lng vng, chu ng li chuyn bn vo Giao Ch
mc voi ni vi di ng tm bc vng ly ba lng vng. Mt nm khng di hng trm nghn ngi. Ai c
bc, mt chic trang sc trn voi bng ti ngh th tr vng gp i, ai bit vn chng ch ngha li tr gp
vng bc an xen, mt dy my dt voi i na.(2) By gi, trong quan li a phng vng Ung Chu Trung
trang sc bng vng bc tng ng Quc c nhiu k n hi l, tnh trng bt cc ngi Tng bn vo
a vng thi L xut th ti Kim
ng, Hng Yn. (BTLSVN).
402 lng bc . Ngoi ra, Chu Kh Phi
(1)
i Vit thc s tr thnh mt vn nn i vi triu nh phng Bc.
cn cho bit: Khe ng Ung Chu cho Qun thn nh Tng ch r: Quan li Ung Chu n hi l, lu gi
ti t An Nam u c m vng, vng nhng ni ny nhiu hn cc nhng k bun bn n l, d d la bp lng dn, bn vo ni khe
qun khc. Chu Vnh An Ung Qun ch cch Giao Ch mt con sng ng. Vng T Giang v cc chu Tht Nguyn gn Giao Ch. Nhng
thi, vt ngan bi n bn nc Giao Ch tm n ri quay v, trong phn th nh vng, tp hng, chu sa xut nc man di rt nhiu, d bun
c ln vng, bn nc trong a phn nc ta th khng c. Vng bn. Dn thng mt khi vo ng mi, u ch b dng lm n l,
khng trong m m ngoi t nhin, ln trong t ct, nh th bng m cn b git cng ma. Trong vic bun bn giao dch y, mi n
ht mch, ln th nh ht u, ln hn to c ngn tay, u gi l vng l cng phi c nm by lng vng, v vy m lng dn phi cht,
sng [] Cng c ht to bng qu trng g, gi l kim mu. C c tht l ng xt thng.(3)
vng ny, giu c hn phi bit. Giao Ch c mi li l cc m vng, c hng nhiu ngun li t m vng sn c, tm l chung s
mua dn ta v lm n l. (2)
xa hoa, khi v c khuch trng, khin vn vt thi L hu ht tot
Cng chnh tnh hnh bun bn n l din ra ht sc si ng ln v uy v, b th, song cng ht sc tinh xo, khc bit vi v nh gn
trong thi k u t ch ny gin tip minh chng cho tr lng ca vn vt triu Nguyn sau ny. Trang phc cung nh v dn gian
vng di do v cuc sng cung nh xa hoa ca i Vit(3). Tuyn d thi L cng c nhng tnh cht tng t nh vy.
Qung Nam Minh Thc cng tu vua Tng v tnh trng ny: Vng Nm 1156, on s thn nh L do L Bang Chnh lm Chnh s
Ung Chu, pha Nam gip Giao Ch, nm trn tri, chu ng quanh sang triu cng nh Tng khng t vng bc chu bu v gm vc i
Vit. Cng nm, ngi Vit tm mua loi on xe si vng (on: mt
dng la t tm nhn bng) ca nh Tng vi s lng ln, vic trc
1. (Trung) Tng hi yu tp co. Nguyn vn:


2. (Trung) Lnh ngoi i p - Q.7 - Kim thch mn - Sinh kim. Tr.269. Nguyn vn: 1. (Trung) Tng hi yu tp co - Hnh php nh - Cm c t - Mc ngy 17 thng 10 nm Thiu Hng
th 3. Nguyn vn:

[] 2. (Trung) Vn hin thng kho - Q.330 - Giao Ch. Tr.2594. Nguyn vn: ,
,,,..
3. Cao Hng Trng cho bit, n cui thi Trn, theo bo co ca cc ph huyn ti Vit Nam, ph Thi Phn ny vn c tham kho t cun Trnh Thiu chu k lc ca Trnh Tng thi Tng, ph
Nguyn c 17 m vng, huyn Ph Lng khng c, ph Lng Sn c 4 m, chu Qung Nguyn khng c, chp trong Trnh Khai Dng tp tr.
chu Qung Oai 59 m, chu Gia Hng 5 m, chu Ninh Ha 3 m, chu Qu 1 m, chu Ngc Ma 6 m, 3. (Trung) Tng hi yu tp co - Hnh Php nh - Cm c t - Mc ngy 6 thng 12 nm Thiu Hng th
chu Tr Long 3 m. (Trung) An Nam ch nguyn - Q.1 - Th sn. Nguyn vn: 32. Nguyn vn:

.
 ti din nhiu ln, khin vua Tng phi ra lnh nghim cm bn I. Trang phc hong
loi on xa x ny cho ngi An Nam. Tng hi yu tp co cho bit: 1. L phc
52 53
Nm Thiu Hng th 26 (1156), bn Thm Cai tu: Ngi An Nam Kt hp m t ca Tng Co vi
mun mua on xe si vng. Loi trang phc ny xa hoa, khng phi nhng s kin Ton th ghi nhn v
th em trng cho bn phng. Vua ni: Trang phc xa hoa nh loi triu nh i C Vit thi inh L, c
xe vng khng th khng cm. Gn y vng cc khan him, bn tiu th thy Giao Ch di bin c l khi nhn
nhn hm li nu ra thnh bn, khng th dng li c, tht l tic xt: An Nam lc mi dng nc, mi
[...] Tuy nhiu ln ch bo, nhng ci thi xa x vn khng dt hn vic cn gin lc, n thi L [] vn
c, cn phi ni li lnh nghim cm. (1)
Thi xa hoa ny khng ch vt xem ra mi y.(1) Tuy nhin, d
ph bin trong tng lp trung thng lu thi L, m ngay dn thng vn vt ca hai triu i inh L cha
cng chung ly ch vng may vo qun o, khin vua L Cao Tng hon b nh triu L th nhng quy ch
phi ra lnh cm nm 1182(2). v trang phc vng hn vn l nhng
Tuy nhin, xt mt cch tng th, trang phc dn gian thi L phn quy ch u tin hng u khi thit lp Lu B i m Min 12 Lu, mc o
Cn. (Bn v thi Minh).
ln ti mu tng t trang phc dn gian thi Nguyn nh m t ca triu nghi. Ton th v i Vit s lc
Chu Kh Phi ngi nc y o thm rng en. Nhng loi trang phc cng ghi nhn nm 980, Thi hu Dng Vn Nga em o Long Cn
sc s, xe si vng hn l nhng loi trang phc trong cung, trang phc ca vua inh Tin Hong khoc ln mnh tng qun L Hon, mi ng
ca quan li v tng lp trung thng lu. Ring vi trang phc ca b ln ngi hong (2). i Vit s lc chp nm 1213, Trn T Khnh xm
quan, Vn hin thng kho cho bit m Phc u, ng, ht, hi , ai phm cung khuyt, th qun lnh i cp ti vt trong cung vua, vua L
vng, ai sng t ca on s thn nh L, th no cng c dt vng ; (3)
Hu Tng by gi lnh ln Lng Chu. Hn mt nm sau, nm 1215,
phc sc Ng i c s dng cc nc ng vn cng thi, ring trong k hoch n vua tr v triu, Trn T Khnh mi tr li cho vua
Ng i vng ca i Vit c miu t l rt di v ln . Bn cnh v (4)
chic m Bnh Thin(3). An Nam ch lc ghi nhn vua nh Trn trong
ho hoa, din mo trang phc ca b quan triu L cng trang nghim, dp i l i m Bnh Thin, mc o Cn(4). Nh vy, c th thy trong
nh nhn. Vy nn nm 1163, cc quan nh L mang vn th sang Tng cc dp i l, cc v vua i C Vit - i Vit u mc o Cn, i m
mc o bo ta, cm ht ng, i li l bi ung dung , vua Tng Hiu (5)
Bnh Thin tng t cc hong Trung Quc.
Tng khi thy ngi nc Vit n ha, o m nh nhn, rt vui mng C iu, n thi Nguyn, Phan Huy Ch nhn xt: Trang phc o
khen ngi . (6)
Cn m Min ca cc triu i nc ta khng cn du tch, n thi vua
L Thi Tng mi bt u ch ra m Min, v sau cng khng s dng.(5)
Nm 1834, sau khi vua Minh Mng t nh quy ch Cn Min li ban
d cho b quan ni rng ng xem s sch nc ta, khng thy c o Cn
1. (Trung) Tng hi yu tp co - Hnh php nh - Cm c nh - Mc ngy 2 thng 9 nm Thiu Hng th
26. Nguyn vn: m Min, ng thi cho rng nh Nguyn l triu i u tin t nh
[]

2. (Vit) i Vit s lc. Tr.158. Nguyn vn: Cm khng c may si ch mu vng 1. Dn theo (Vit) Cng mc - Chnh bin - Q.3 - Mc thng 8 ma thu nm 1059. Nguyn vn:
vo qun o. Tuy nhin Ton Th cho hay ni dung ca lnh cm ny l cm mc y phc mu vng. Khng []
loi tr kh nng c hai thng tin ny u nm trong cng mt lnh cm ca vua L Cao Tng. 2. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
3. (Trung) Vn hin thng kho - Q.330. Nguyn vn: ,,,,,, 3. (Vit) i Vit s lc. Nguyn vn:
4. (Trung) Lnh ngoi i p. Nguyn vn: 4. (Trung) An Nam ch lc. Nguyn vn: []
5. (Trung) Lnh ngoi i p. Nguyn vn: 5. (Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch - Quan gia quan phc chi ch. Nguyn vn:
6. (Vit) Cng mc. Nguyn vn: []
 ra quy ch L phc ny(1). Qua y c th thy sch v ghi chp in gi l hong, lc dng vng qua cm vt ln trn, c nh u kia ca
chng ca nc ta sau s sp ca mi triu i li i din vi nguy trm [] Cc triu i Trung Quc k tha, song hnh dng, quy ch
54 55
c xa s. D vy, quy ch L phc ca cc triu i phong kin lun u c bin d.(1)
c tham kho t quy ch c in ca Trung Quc, m nhng quy ch Phan Huy Ch vin dn quy ch m Min dnh cho vng trong
ny thng c nhng thnh phn tng i n nh. T , cc triu i Chu L cho bit, trn m ny c vn chp, ng trc trn, ng sau
phong kin Vit Nam, Trung Quc, Triu Tin, Nht Bn sao phng, ch vung, ng trc sa xung, ng sau nghch ln, di 1 thc 6 tc, rng
bin vi nhng phng thc khc nhau, to nn hin tng i ng 8 tc, ng trc sa xung 4 tc, ng sau sa xung 3 tc. M Min kt
tiu d v vn vt trong khi cc nc ng vn. L phc Cn Min hp vi o Cn, pha trc v sau u c 12 dy lu, mi lu c 12 vin
cng khng ngoi l. Do nh Trn k tha phn ln cc quy ch triu ngc, ly dy to (dy t nhiu sc) xu ngc.(2)
nghi phm phc ca nh L, li do s khan him v mt t liu, cho nn Vo thi Trn, L Tc miu t Min lu kh ging Trung chu(3),
y chng ti kho chung quy ch Cn Min ca cc v hong triu tc m Min, dy lu c quy ch i tng t m Min ca Trung
L v triu Trn. Quc. ng thi ng cho bit, m Min p dng cho cc quan t tc i
a. M Bnh Thin liu ban tr xung c cc ng vin lm bng vng bc an xen, Lnh
Ngoi tr giai on 1816-1832, khi nim m th x cho n Hiu th lang u i
Bnh Thin c dng ch loi m Triu phc m Min bc (tc vin bng bc).
ca mt s v hong t, vng thn triu Nguyn, Theo t liu ca Trung Quc
cn thng thng khi nim ny c hiu l th ghi nhn, m Bnh Thin ca cc v
m trn phng ca vua i lc i t nh cch gii vua ng - Tng l loi m Thng
thch ca Vit Nam t in (1931). Ni cch khc, Thin gn thm min bn. n
m Bnh Thin l bit danh ca m Min. Tuy thi Minh mi khi phc quy ch
nhin, ngay thi Nguyn, m Min khng ch l c, di min bn gi li ng m,
loi m t ca ring vua, m cn l m t ca hong b m Thng Thin.(4) Trong khi
t, vng cng v cc quan nht, nh, tam phm. , c im ni bt ca m Thng
Trung Quc y quan phc sc i t in nh Thin chnh l cc vin lng c Tng cha Vnh Nghim, Bc Giang i
m Bnh Thin nh 4 dy thao, l m tp
ngha: M Bnh Thin cn c gi l Bnh Min dt vng. Qua vi nt miu t chm
m L phc th hin trn cc pho tng
, Lu Min , l tn nm na ca m Min, ph ca L Tc, c th thy quy ch Dim Vng ti Vit Nam; Tng Thch
cha Vua, H Ni i m Min 9 lu, mc
loi m vng, ch hu v khanh i phu dng m Min ca vua quan i Vit thi
M Bnh Thin (Minh o bo gn B t, vn l phm phc ca b
trong cc dp i l [] Phn nh m p mt vn Hi in) v m Thng Trn v i th c tham kho t quan thi L Nguyn, trn thc t khng tn
ti cch kt hp nh vy.
g, gi l din, cn gi min bn. Hai u min bn Thin (Trung ng quy ch m Min ca Trung Quc
cung quan phc).
r cc chui ngc chu, gi l lu. S lu c quy thi ng - Tng. Nh vy c th t gi thit, m Bnh Thin ca
nh da vo thn phn ca ngi i m. 12 lu l cao qu, chuyn cc v vua L - Trn cng l loi m dng Thng Thin gn min bn,
dng cho vng. Hai bn thn m c hai l, gi l nu, l ni ci
trm ngc xuyn qua c nh bi tc. u trm ngc buc dy m, 1. Trung Quc y quan phc sc i t in. Tr.35
2. (Vit) Loi ch L nghi ch Quan gia quan phc chi ch. Nguyn vn:

.
1. (Vit) Minh Mng chnh yu. Tp III. Q.12. Tr.CCLXV. Nguyn vn: [] 3. (Trung) An Nam ch lc - Chng phc. Nguyn vn: .
[] 4. Trung Quc y quan phc sc i t in. Tr.35.
 c trang sc ton bng vng. Loi m ny c quy ch dy lu tng cho thy, nhiu kh nng trong
t Trung Quc, ring hnh dng v quy ch trang sc m c s khc bit. nhng dp i l, hong v cc
56 57
y, chng ti mun nhn mnh rng, m Min ca vng vng cng, i thn nh inh
nc Vit lun l loi m c dy lu, khng phi dng m c bn di L L Trn u vn L phc
thao nh bn gc m hay dng m ch c min bn m khng c dy Cn Min. Trung Quc y quan
lu nh mt s pho tng thi L - Nguyn th hin. Nhn nh ca L phc sc i t in cng cho
Tc chnh l mt thit chng. Ngoi ra, tm bia i Vit quc L gia t bit, cc vua Trung Quc khi cng
Sng Thin Din Linh thp bi (nin i 1106) vi ni dung ca ngi vua t tin vng, n tip triu kin,
L Nhn Tng nhc ti Min lu ca vua L qua hnh nh con ngao gp g quc tn, c hnh hn l,
vng ni ln mt nc lic mt nhn b, h ming phun ma; ngng cng u mc Cn Min(1).
trng di lu trn m Min(1); hay bi th ca H Qu Ly tng Tuyn Long Cn, cn gi l Cn
ph s Nguyn Ngn Quang sau khi son ngi nh Trn cng nhc ti phc, hoc gi tt l Cn, l L
di m ny: Cn c ch tng khng phc ca vng v vng Quy ch o Cn thi Minh (Tam ti hi): 1.
Th: cn gi l t th, l di tt bng cc si
ai bit/ Mt ny h b Min lu che?(2) cng i thn. Nh Phm nh t. Gm: i th, di tt kn (hnh ch nht)
v tiu th, di tt tha, nm trn i th, tht
Tuy l nhng li vn th mang tnh c H ghi nhn, mt b Cn Min
sau lng. 2. Bi: di ngc bi eo hai bn
l, song hnh nh Min lu c nhc Nht Nguyt Tinh thn dnh cho vng Min phi hng. 3. Trung n: o lt trong; 4. T tt:
tht ai, che pha trc h th; 5. Cch i:
n y ch thc tn ti trn thc t, (Mt tri) (Mt trng) (Sao) c 12 lu, lu c 12 ngc, Cn
ai da. 6. i i: ai lm bng la; 7. Tt;
ta hnh dung v chic m L phc phc thu 12 chng.(2) Trong 8. Giy Tch; 9. o en 6 chng; 10. Hun
thng: mt dng vy quy, mc bn ngoi
tn qu nht ca vng nc Vit vi , chng l cc hoa vn thu qun, mu . 11. Phng tm khc lnh: c
nhng di ngc r xung trc mt. trn L phc, tng trng cho cong, tm vung, eo c.
Long Hoa trng Sn
b. o Cn (Rng) (Chim tr) (Ni) tri t, vn vt, gm 12 loi:
Nh chng ti trnh by, Ton Nht (mt tri), Nguyt (mt trng), Tinh thn (sao), Sn (ni), Long
th ghi nhn vic vua L Hon ln ngi (rng), Hoa trng (chim tr), Tng di (cc tng miu, c hnh h v
mc o Long Cn ca vua inh, An Nam kh), To (thy to), Ha (la), Phn m (go), Ph (ru), Pht (ch ).
ch lc miu t vua Trn trong dp i l To Ha Phn m Theo Tng s, mt b Cn phc ca vua Tng bao gm: o xanh
(Rong) (La) (Go)
i m Bnh Thin, mc o Cn. Ngoi tm chng, thu Nht, Nguyt, Tinh thn, Sn, Long, Hoa trng, Ha,
ra, trong mt bi th tng Chu Vn An, Tng di; Hun thng (thng mu pht) c bn chng, thu To, Phn
Trn Nguyn n dng hnh tng m, Ph, Pht. Mu ca t tt ty theo mu sc ca thng, thu hai con
lng ngui lnh vi o Cn thu hnh Tng di Ph Pht rng bay ln. o Trung n (o lt trong, c giao lnh) bng l trng. Vin o
(Cc t) (Ru) (Ch )
Ph, m Min v ngc khu, v vic mu en, di tht bng l ; dy buc tt bng l xanh. i i bng
chn b quan trng ca v danh nho Hoa vn 12 chng thu trn l trng; cch i (ai da); hai di bi bch ngc (di ngc bi eo hai bn hng).
o Cn theo Tam ti hi.
bc nht Vit Nam ny . D liu trn
(3)
i th su mu: , vng, en, trng, xanh nht, lc. Tiu th ba mu,
nh i th, mc ba ming ngc hon (Th, cn gi l t th, l di tt

1. Vn khc Hn Nm Vit Nam. Tp 1. Tr.141. Nguyn vn:

2. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: 1. Trung Quc y quan phc sc i t in. Tr.133.
3. Th vn L Trn. Tp 3. Tr.161. 2. (Vit) B kho. Nguyn vn:
 bit cc chng Ph, Pht, Phn m, Hoa trng v cc trang sc t th,
ngc bi, phng tm khc lnh, Min lu u kh ging Trung Quc.(1)
58 59

Din mo trang phc Cn Min th hin trn

ph iu Ng gia th bi

L Tc nhn xt cc chng trn b Cn phc ca vua Trn nh

Ph, Pht, Phn m, Hoa trng cho n cc trang sc thy bi, t th,
phng tm khc lnh, Min lu u kh ging Trung chu, ng thi
cho bit, vo i l, vua Trn i m Bnh Thin [] mc o Cn, eo
ai Kim Long (tc ai nh cc ming vng khm hnh rng), c eo phng tm khc
5 Cn Min thi Hn, o Cn 6 chng, thng 6 chng. (5000 nm trang phc Trung
Quc) 1. Nguyt; 2. Nht; 3. Tinh thn; 4. Long; 5. Sn; 6. Hoa trng; 7. Tng di; 8. To; 9. lnh bng la trng thu b gm ln trn, nh vng v ngc chu, tay
Ha; 10. Phn m; 11. Ph; 12. Pht. 13. Thng (cn gi l xim, trang phc che phn h th, cm ngc khu. (2)
quy bn ngoi qun). 14. T tt (tnh cht nh thng, tht ln trn cch i).
Qua kho st tm bia Ng gia th bi, chng ti nhn thy, ngi
n ng trn tm bia ny ngi trn ngai rng, u i m Min vi di
Thin H i vt ngang min bn, c eo phng tm khc lnh nh
cc ht nh ngc chu xung quanh, tay cm ngc khu, lng tht i
i v t tt, chn i giy Tch. Trn o Cn c th nhn ra hai chng
Nht, Nguyt hai vai, chng Sn hai ng tay o pha sau, chng
Hoa trng hai bn gu vt o. i i c hai di r xung hai bn,
t tt nm gia. Trn t tt cn c th nhn ra chng To v Pht
. Di Thin H i vt ngang min bn l di dy trang sc trn m
Min ca vng, ln u tin xut hin vo thi ng, n thi
1.Thnh V thin hong (701 756. Cha Todaiji, Nht Bn) i m Min 10 lu; 2. Tng ch cn thy qua ghi chp(3). Ring phng tm khc lnh nh
Trang phc o Cn 12 chng kt hp vi m Min 12 lu theo quy ch nh Hn (Tam l vng v ngc chu c th coi l nt c sc ca ring b Cn phc thi
); 3. Vua Cao Ly (Sa saek ei hyang ki) i m Min 9 lu, c eo phng tm khc lnh.
L - Trn.
bng cc si t. Gm: i th, di tt kn hnh ch nht v tiu th, di Mc d, b trang phc Cn Min th hin trn ph iu Ng gia th
tt tha, nm trn i th, tht sau lng). Tt mu son, giy Tch , bi mt mc no khp vi m t ca An Nam ch lc, song cc c
vin bng la vng.(1)
Chng ti cho rng, Cn Min ca cc v vua L - Trn v c bn 1. (Trung) An Nam ch lc. Nguyn vn: ,
khp vi nhng quy ch Cn Min ca nh Tng, bi chnh L Tc cho
2. (Trung) An Nam ch lc - Chng phc. Nguyn vn:
. [],
1. (Trung) Tng s - D phc ch - Q.151. Nguyn vn: . Cm t mt s d bn xut nhp ch cn (khn), khin cc bn
dch ting Vit u dch l c eo khn bng [] ri li eo c vung trng o cong. Cch hiu v dch nh
vy khng chnh xc.
3. Trung Quc y quan phc sc i t in. Tr.36-37.
 thng. Ti Trung Quc, bt u t thi ng Thi Tng, Hong bo
mi chnh thc tr thnh Thng phc ca vng; phm cp ca
60 61
b quan c khu bit da trn sc o(1). L Qu n cng cho bit:
u thi ng, cc quan chung mc ba mu , vng v ta. Vua
Thi Tng mi ln u nh ra phm phc, ly mu ta, , lc, xanh
lm th t. T bui y khng c ai mc mu vng na, v king b trn
vy(2). Ti Vit Nam, Ton th ghi nhn nm 939, Ng Quyn xng
vng, thit lp b quan, quy nh mu sc quan phc. Bc sang thi
L, ta c bit cc chnh s i Vit sang triu cng nh Tng c
m t mc o bo ta. Phan Huy Ch nhn xt ch phc sc ca cc
quan L - Trn coi mu ta l qu nht, th n l mu , mu lc,
mu bic, sau cng l mu xanh(3), tc l khng khc ch phc sc
ca nh Tng.
Chu Kh Phi ghi nhn, trong nhng cng phm triu nh i
Vit cng sang nh Tng nm 1156 c 850 tht on mu vng sm
thu hnh bn long (tc hoa vn rng , cun trn) (4). Trc , nm 1040, vua
L Thi Tng dy cung n dt c gm vc(5), ng mun t y v

Ng gia th bi (cha Du, H Nam) Bia

khng ghi nin i, nhng cn c vo
ba loi ch hy c khc trn bia, c
th on nh tm bia c dng t
thi Trn, khong t nm 1366-1395.
Mt trc c hnh ngi n ng u
i m Min, ngi trn ngai rng, c th
l chn dung mt ngi hng cng xy
dng ngi cha. Ni dung bia ghi li
vic mt nh s h Ng tu xin dng t
vn lm cha, v nhng ngi cng c rung vo cha. (Vn khc Hn Nm Vit Nam.
Tp 2. Tr.265). o bo. (Vit) Nht dng thng m: Bo, o di cng gi l o kp. (Vit) Nam phng
danh vt b kho: Bo, l o di, chm n chn. (Vit) Ch Nam ngc m: on lnh
(c trn) o chu nh ang. (nh: Long bo ca vua Liu khai qut ti Giang Bc may
bng on mu vng pha , thu hnh rng ngc o, ti nay c coi l hin vt long
liu hin c vn cha cho php chng ti khng nh hnh tng ngi bo c nht ca Trung Quc. (Trng Khnh Bc vt qun tng vn vt sch).
n ng trn tm bia ny c th l v vua no ca nh Trn. Tuy nhin,
vi s trng hp khng phi ngu nhin k trn, chng ti cho rng, b
1. Trung Quc y quan phc sc i t in. Tr.193.
trang phc Cn Min th hin trn bia phn no c tham kho t 2. (Vit) Vn i loi ng - Q.5 - Phm vt cu. Nguyn vn:

nguyn mu Cn Min dnh cho vng thi Trn. 3. (Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch - B quan chng phc chi ch. Nguyn vn:
2. Thng phc
4. (Trung) Lnh ngoi i p. Nguyn vn: . Tng hi yu tp co cho bit nm
Bn cnh b L phc c s dng trong cc dp l tit quan trng, 1156 nh L cn cng 50 tht lnh v la, khin chng ti nghi ng v con s 850 tht on Lnh ngoi i
cn c b Thng phc s dng trong nhng bui thit triu thng p ghi nhn.
5. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
 1. Ph thi Trn (M thut thi Trn); 2. Ph thi L trung hng (Tranh c Vit
Nam); 3. Ph thi Nguyn (Bo tng M thut cung nh Hu).

n rng thi L v theo gch khai qut ti Hong thnh Thng Long.

Phc dng trang phc Cn Min thi L Trn da theo ph iu

Ng th gia bi. (Tranh: L Tip).
 i vi loi m Thng
triu ca cc vua nh L, hin
64 65
cha c s liu trc tip cp.
Tuy nhin, Ton th cho bit
nm 1035, vua L Thi Tng
xung chiu ch ra Kim Bt
Gic Tiu Dao. i Vit s k
tin bin (bn in thi Ty Sn)
cho bit m Tiu Dao tn l
Nam ng ng an vng xut hnh (V vo thi Ng i 907- 960. Bo tng Ngh thut Kim Bt Gic, Loi ch th cho
Boston M); Bch ha n Hong - vua Ty H (Trung Quc Long bo); Chn dung vua ng
rng tn m l Kim Bt Gic
Cao Tng (V vo thi Minh. C cung tng tuyn ty). Vua Ty H (1032-1227. Bo tng
Hermitage Nga). Tiu Dao, song quy ch khng
th kho c(1). Tuy nhin gn
y c kin cho rng Bt Gic
Tiu Dao chp thiu ch ta,
vn t tn Tiu Dao ta, mt
loi gh gp cho ca ngi
Hung N. Chng ti cho rng,
cch l gii nh vy khng
tha ng, bi nu vy, cng
Long bo ca vua L D Tng, Long bo triu
c th t gi thit nguyn tc Nguyn th k XIX v Mng bo ca triu nh
vn chp thiu ch cn, m cha Nguyn th k XVIII, Kiu dng hoa vn
n Hoa bo thu hoa dnh cho cc quan ng phm triu Nguyn (BAVH) v tng quan vn Tiu Dao Cn l tn mt loi rng my sng nc triu L Trung Hng v
t phm triu Nguyn mc Giao bo ti lng Khi nh (nh: TQ). Vo thi Nguyn, kiu thu triu Nguyn chu nh hng t dng thc
m ca vn nhn, o s nh trang tr o bo Trung Quc thi cui Minh u
hoa vn hai vai, ngc o c p dng vo Giao bo v Hoa bo ca cc quan t, ng phm.
Tng. Thc t cho thy, mt s Thanh. Cc triu i Vit Nam v Trung Quc
trc cha xut hin kiu hoa vn v trang
loi m c tn hnh tng nh
tr nh vy. Tuy nhin, o bo dng khi thit
sau triu nh i Vit khng tip tc dng gm vc ca nh Tng, Phong Cn (gi), Tam Sn Mo triu u l dng o c trn, thng tay.
iu ny chng t cc tht on nm trong s cng phm nu trn (ba ngn ni) v.v. l nhng
nhiu kh nng l do cung nh nh L t dt c. Kho xt t liu chic m xut hin trong khi cc nc s dng ch Hn, song kiu
m t kiu dng o bo Thng phc ca vua Trung Quc thi ng dng hon ton khc bit. Trong trng hp ny, v cha c liu
-Tng c th thy, loi o bo thi k ny u c thu hoa vn rng c th xc quyt Bt Gic Tiu Dao l loi gh tng t gh Tiu Dao
, ch yu ngc o v hai vai. Dng o bo ny ng thi cng l ca ngi Hung N hay mt kiu m bin cch t m Tiu Dao ca
dng o bo chung ca vua cha Cao Ly, Ty H, i Liu v.v. o bo ngi Tng, cho nn thng tin dn trong Ton th nn li tn nghi.
ca cc v vua L Trn rt c th c may t loi on vng sm thu
rng , vi kiu dng tng t o bo ca hong Trung Quc cng
1. (Vit) i Vit s k tin bin. BK2. Tr.29. Nguyn vn: (Vit) Loi
thi, song cng c th ch l loi o bo trn, khng thu hoa vn. ch - L nghi ch - Quan gia quan phc chi ch. Nguyn vn:
 ci trm vng, trn mc o Sam vng,
di mc qun ta.(1)
66 67
a. o Sam
Ngi Tng khng miu t kiu
dng o Sam vng ca vua L, ch miu
t loi o Sam en ca nhng ngi
cn li nh Lnh ngoi i p cho
bit: Nhng ngi cn li thng ngy
pha trn mc o Sam en c trn b
st, bn vt nh o Bi t, gi l o T
in (2). Nh vy c th thy o
Sam en thnh hnh vo triu L l loi
o c trn, t phn ngc tr xung x
t, tng t kiu o Bi T, vn cng l
mt dng o Sam thnh hnh vo thi o Bi t x bn vt, gia c th
M Phc u th hin trn pho tng c cho Tng Thp in Dim vng cha Bt nh cc hoc di buc. (Tam ti
l vua L Thi T, cha Kin S (H Ni, TK Thp i m c nh hnh bt gic (c kin Tng Trung Quc(3). Vo thi Trn, hi).
XVIII) mang m bt php dn gian, i m cho rng loi m ny l m lc lng khng
Trn Cng Trung, s nh Nguyn,
mang kiu dng m Sa thi Minh, p dng chnh xc), c eo Phng tm khc lnh.
vo Vit Nam nm 1457, khng xc tn Song cc pho tng ny c tc dng vo khi sang i Vit cng miu t: Ngi
lm c liu nghin cu trang phc L Trn. th k XVII, nn rt kh c kh nng c lin
h trc tip vi trang phc L Trn.
trong nc u mc mu en, o en bn vt, c trn bng l.(4)
Da vo cc d liu trn m suy, o Sam vng ca vua i Vit
cng l loi o x vt nh o T in, o Bi T, c o nhiu kh nng
l dng c trn. Song cng khng loi tr kh nng o Sam dnh ring
3. Tin phc cho vua i Vit c dng i khm tng t o ca vua Tng Huy
Cc kiu dng trang phc tng lu hnh trong cung nh v dn Tng trong bc v Thnh cm thi Nam Tng, tng Pht cha
gian Vit Nam a phn u l dng o x t hai bn sn. S khc bit Pht Tch thi L v tng qun cha Trnh Th Ngc C cha Bt
ca cc dng o ny ch yu nm phn c o, c loi c an cho (giao Thp thi L Trung Hng.
lnh, trc lnh), c trn (on lnh, vin lnh), c cong vung (phng
lnh, khc lnh) v cng c loi c ng ci khuy (th lnh). Trong s ,
o c ng ci khuy, tc o di c nh hnh vo th k XVIII, c nin
1. (Trung) Lnh ngoi i p. Nguyn vn:
i mun nht. . Xut pht t thi him khch vi ngi i Vit, cc tc gi
Tin phc l trang phc mc vo ngy thng, nhng lc nhn Trung Quc thng dng t T (t trng) ch vua Vit, y chng ti u dch l vua.
2. (Trung) Lnh ngoi i p. Nguyn vn:
c khng phi thit triu. Cc sch Lnh ngoi i p (Tng - Chu 3. Trung Quc y quan phc sc i t in (Tr.206) nh ngha: o Sam l loi o n (may mt lp, phn
Kh Phi), An Nam k lc (Tng - Trnh Tng), Vn hin thng kho bit vi o kp, o bo, loi o may hai lp), ng tay rng, c lm bng the la mng nh, may mt lp,
khng lt, thng c may thnh dng i khm (hai vt di song song), gia c di buc, cng c loi
(Nguyn - M oan Lm) u chp: Ngi Giao khng phn sang khng cn di buc, hai vt m. ng tay o ch yu l ng thng, khng c vin [] y cng l loi o
hn, u bi tc chuy k, i chn t, vua ngy thng cng vy, song thi thng, rt c a chung vo thi Tng.
4. (Trung) Nguyn thi k s - Q.9 - An Nam tc s. Tr.178. Nguyn vn:

 sc trm bn ngoi ca n ng.(1) Vn hin
thng kho ch thch, ngi Giao Ch mc
68 69
o Sam en khng tht eo, di o Sam tht
qun en.(2)
Nh vy vo thi L - Trn, n ng i
Vit s dng mt loi phc sc lm bng vi
hoc la (thng l loi gp np), quy ra
ngoi chic qun hai ng, di lp o Sam,
gi l qun hoc thng, vo thi Nguyn
cn c gi l xim. Thng ca vua mu
ta, thng ca vng hu v th dn u
Qun cha Trnh Th Ngc C th k XVII cha Bt Thp, mc o Sam kiu i khm,
bn trong quy thng mu en. (Bo tng M thut Vit Nam); Vua Tng Huy Tng trong
mu en. Vo thi Nguyn, thng gn vi
Thnh cm (Bo tng C cung i Bc); Tng Pht cha Pht Tch thi L (Bo tng K y (o cc tay c trn) c quy nh l
Lch s Vit Nam). trang phc mc lt ca vua quan, hu phi
trong nhng bui vo chu hoc t l.
o vng thng ta. (Phc dng.
b. Qun - thng, vy quy
Tranh: L Tip).
Khi nim qun trong ting Hn khng ng nht vi khi nim c. o Cu
mc t tht lng tr xung, c hai ng x chn trong ting Vit Ton th cho bit, nm 1055, xt thng
hin i(1). Qun l mc pha di, thng c may ghp t nm, nhng t nhn phi chu i rt, vua L Thnh
su hoc tm mnh vi (la), vy quanh eo. Trung Quc, thi Hn Tng ni: Ta trong thm cung, si than
Ngy nam n u mc, kch c ngn di khc bit, qun ngn th chm xng th, mc o H Cu m cn lnh n
n u gi, qun di th qut t, mc trm ra bn ngoi chic qun th ny, hung h nhng k b giam trong
hai ng. Qun cng chnh l tn gi nm na ca thng(2). Chnh v ngc(3), on sai em chn chiu ban cho t
vy loi vy p ca n b min Bc, trong t d bt ngi Bc H nhn. Phm Ng, Th ni hc sinh di triu
thay i y phc ca vua Minh Mng c gi l vin thng(3) (thng vua Trn Minh Tng (1314-1329) cng nhc
trn), trong Gia nh thnh thng ch ca Trnh Hoi c c gi l n mt loi o Cu c lm t lng iu
v trip vi qun (vy quy khng np). Chnh L Tc cng ghi nhn vo thi th, qua cu th mi nm lnh nh trn
Trn: Vng hu v th dn thng mc o c trn, mc thng mu sng nc vi mt chic thuyn nan, gi Ty
en, qun bng l trng . Loi thng - qun ca nam gii ngi Vit
(4) thi bt i o iu Cu mu en(4). Trn
May o Cu (K thut ca
thi L c Lnh ngoi i p cho bit: Vua ngy thng mc qun ngi An Nam). Nguyn n (1325-1390) cng c th vit vc
ta, nhng ngi khc ngy thng mc qun en. Qun en l phc

1. (Trung) Lnh ngoi i p. Nguyn vn: [][][]

1. T in ting Vit. Tr.1251.
2. Trung Quc y quan phc sc i t in. Tr.278. 2. (Trung) Vn hin thng kho Giao Ch. Nguyn vn:
3. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Nguyn vn: [] 3. (Vit) Ton th. Nm 1055. Vua L Thnh Tng ni:.
4. (Trung) An Nam ch lc. Nguyn vn: 4. Th vn L Trn. Tp 2. Quyn thng. Tr.827. Nguyn vn:
 ngi m yu n trong chic o Cu nh(1). Chng t vo thi L - Trn,
vua quan i Vit c hai loi o Cu l H Cu (o Cu lng co) v
70
iu Cu (o Cu lng chn) mc vo ma ng. Phm nh H
kho v o Cu ca Trung Quc v o Cu thi L cho bit: Cu l o
da chng rt, sn sinh Trung Quc, c hai loi, loi sang trng l H
Cu, iu Cu, th n l Dng Cu (o Cu lng d) [] o Cu c
hai kiu, kiu bn trong l da bn ngoi l lng v kiu bn trong l lng
bn ngoi l da [] Pha Nam vng Giang Hoi khng c tuyt, t sng,
loi o Cu thng mc l loi bn trong l lng, bn ngoi l da. Nc
ta cng vy. Chng do thy th phong tc khc nhau.
m cng gii thch: Khinh Cu (o Cu nh) kho thuc o da.(3) Ngoi ra,
qua hnh v ngi may o Cu trong cun K thut ca ngi An Nam,
chng ta vn thy o Cu c s dng vo cui thi Nguyn. Chng t
vo ma ng gi rt, vua ti Vit Nam ngoi o bng, cn mc o Cu.
o Cu ca Vit Nam c loi H Cu v iu Cu, bn trong l lng, bn
ngoi l da, khc vi o Cu min Bc Trung Quc.
Rng Trung Quc thi Tng trong tranh chn dung Tng Cao Tng (Bo tng C cung i
Bc) v trn tm vi thu thi Tng (Cm t vn chng Trung Quc truyn thng chc t vn
dng); Rng Vit Nam thi L khai qut ti Hong thnh Thng Long; Naga Thi Lan (chp
ti Chiang Mai, Thi Lan); Naga Chm (Bo tng Lch s Vit Nam).
1. Th vn L Trn. Tp 3. Tr.165. Nguyn vn:
2. (Vit) B kho - Quyn thng. Tr.39. Nguyn vn:
[][]
3. (Vit) Ch Nam ngc m gii ngha. Tr.119.
II. Trang phc b quan
Nm 1006, vua L Long nh, v vua cui cng ca triu Tin L
71
xung lnh thay i Triu phc, nht nht noi theo ch nh Tng.
Sau trong sut 24 nm bao gm trn vn thi gian tr v ca vua L
Thi T (1009 - 1028), ta khng thy triu nh nh L ti thit triu nghi
phm phc. Nh ni t trc, phi n nm 1030, vua L Thi Tng
mi ln u tin t nh li quan phc. Nm 1059, vua L Thnh Tng
chnh thc p dng ch Cng phc ca nh Tng, nh du bi quy
nh b quan phi i m Phc u, i hia mi c vo triu. Nh vy,
(2)
Ch nam ngc t nm 1059 tr i, b quan triu L c ba loi trang phc, gm L phc
(mc trong dp l ln), Triu phc (mc trong bui i triu v dp l
nh), v Thng phc (mc trong bui Thng triu).
1. L phc
Nh chng ti trnh by ti phn kho
v L phc ca hong , trang phc Cn Min
c coi l L phc sang trng bc nht ca
triu nh phong kin. Tc v phm trt ca
vng hu b quan ch yu c phn bit da
trn s dy lu trn m Min v s chng thu
trn o Cn. Quy ch Cn Min ca mi triu
i c s gia gim khc bit.
Vi t liu hin nay, chng ti cha th
kho c quy ch Cn Min c th ca triu
L. Theo vn bia cha Bo Ninh Sng Phc dng
nm 1107 m t, v quan cho xy cha l Thi
ph H Hng Tng cm ngc khu sng sng,
mc Ph Pht ung dung(4) Theo quy ch ca
nh Trn, trang phc Cn Min ch dnh cho
hong v cc quan t tc i liu ban tr
xung ti hiu th lang. Ring cc tc vng,
hu, minh t c quy nh s dng L phc Trang phc Cn Min dnh
Cng Thn. Vo thi L, Ton th chp: nm cho vng cng triu Nguyn.
(BAVH).
1206, vua L Cao Tng thng m D Mng lm
1. Th vn L Trn. Tp 1. Tr.325. Nguyn vn:
 Thi bo, cho php i m Cng Thn(1). Chng t ngay t thi L, b tr ln i m 1 lng. n thi Tng, m Triu phc ca i thn tng
quan c hai loi L phc l Cn Min v Cng Thn tng t nh thi s lng thnh 5 lng. M Tin Hin 5 lng tc Ng Lng Quan l
72 73
Trn. C iu, quy ch Cn Min, Cng Thn thi L v thi Trn c loi m bi t t ng hoc trong dp triu hi ca cc quan nht,
ng nht hay khng, chng ti cha th khng nh c. Ni dung c nh phm. i vi thn vng, khanh tng v bc tam cng lit vo
th ca quy ch Cn Min v Cng Thn dnh cho b quan chng ti s nht ng, Khu mt s, thi t, thi bo lit vo nh ng u c
tip tc trnh by ti phn kho v L phc ca b quan triu Trn. i Tht Lng Quan tc m Tin Hin 7 lng(1). Nh L p dng ch
2. Triu phc Triu phc ca nh Tng s, cho nn s xut hin ca loi m 7 lng
Triu phc ca b quan nh L k tha quy ch Triu phc c dnh cho Khu mt s ghi nhn trong Ton th l iu c th l gii. Ton
t nh t nm 1006 ca nh Tin L, m xa hn l quy ch Triu phc th cho bit: Nm 1129, vua L Thn Tng cho L T Khc lm Khu mt
ca nh Tng. Phan Huy Ch kho Tng ch cho bit, Triu phc nh s, lit vo trt minh t, c i m Tht Lng Quan.(2)
Tng c ba th m: m Tin Hin, m iu Thin v m Gii Tri. C
ba loi m ny trn thc t u l m Tin Hin, do nh thm ui con
iu th hoc sng con gii tri m c tn gi khc nhau(2). Kho vn
hin Trung Quc c th thy, m Tin Hin thi Tng v thi Minh c
kiu dng tng t, song hon ton khu bit vi kiu m Tin Hin thi
Hn. Nh Tin L du nhp ch Triu
phc ca nh Tng, nh L li tip tc k
tha, do quy ch m Tin Hin ca
i Vit hn c nhng nt tng ng v M Lng quan thi Minh (Khng Ph); M L quan (Rekan) ca Nht
Bn thi Nara m phng hnh dng Lng quan ca nh ng (kariginu.
c bn so vi kiu dng m ca nh Tng jp); Lng quan ca Hn Quc thi Triu Tin (emuseum.go.kr).
- Minh v Triu Tin.
a. Lng Quan Tng s chp rng: Ch thi k u nh Tng, m Tin Hin
M Tin Hin thng c Ng Lng Quan, trn m trang sc hnh hoa bng vng bc, gi trm
gi l Lng Quan , hoc Kim Quan bi
(3)
bng sng t hoc i mi [] Nht, nh phm i khi t l, triu hi,
c cc vin lng bng vng trang sc trung th mn h chp thm Lung cn, gi ui iu th [] Ng s
chy dc trn thn m. S vin lng i phu, trung tha gi sng gii tri.(3) Trong , Lung cn c lm
c dng phn bit phm cp ca b bng my, bn ngoi qut sn, hnh dng vung vn, hai bn tri phi
quan. T thi ng Hn ti thi ng, dng loi my mng mn, tt thnh hai tm trang sc nh hai cnh ve.
ch yu c t 3 lng xung n 1 lng. Chn dung Phm Trng Ym i m Trc thi Nguyn Phong, ngi ta dng i mi ch thnh hnh dng
iu Thin, trn trn m nh hnh
Nh thi ng quy nh cc quan t con ve (thin), pha sau ci ui con
tam phm tr ln i m 3 lng, ng iu th, bn ngoi chp Lung cn.
(Bo tng Nam Kinh Trung Quc). 1. (Trung) Tng s - D phc ch - D phc t - Ch thn phc thng. Nguyn vn:
phm tr ln i m 2 lng, cu phm

2. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: . Trong bn dch ca Ton th v
1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: . Loi ch, Lng c dch l cu, Tht Lng Quan c dch thnh m by cu.
2. (Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch - B quan chng phc chi ch. Nguyn vn: 3. (Trung) Tng s - D phc ch - D phc t - Ch thn phc thng. Nguyn vn:
[][]
3. Trung Quc y quan phc sc i t in. Tr.49.
 con bm trang sc pha trc m, v sau thay Quy ch Lng Quan ch c p dng ti ba nc Trung Quc,
bng hnh dng con ve bng vng. Khi i, Lung cn Vit Nam, Triu Tin, khng c p dng ti Nht Bn. Tuy nhin,
74 75
c chp ln Lng Quan; y l loi phc sc p Nht Bn thi Nara (710-794) tng s dng loi m L Quan (Rekan)
dng ring cho t tng, thn vng, tam s v tam c kiu dng sao phng t m Lng Quan ca nh ng. Ti Trung
cng . Hnh thc trang sc trn Lng Quan v
(1)
Quc, quy ch Lng Quan b gin on vo thi Nguyn, c khi
Lung cn ca nh Tng c th nh hng ti hnh phc vo thi Minh, sau khi ngi Mn Thanh lm ch Trung Hoa th
thc trang sc trn m Cng Thn v m Dng vnh vin b loi b. Triu nh Triu Tin p dng ch trang phc
ng ca nh Trn. Bi theo L Tc, hai loi m ca nh Minh v l triu i phong kin cui cng ng gn gi ch
Cng Thn v Dng ng ca i Vit cng u Triu phc Lng Quan n tn u th k XX. Ti Vit Nam, t cui
M iu Thin chp
dng hnh con ong, con bm bng vng trang sc Lung cn trong tranh thi Tin L n ht thi L trong khong 231 nm (1006-1225), Lng
chn dung T M
ln m, dy tha to nh ty theo cp bc(2). Quan c triu nh i Vit p dng lm Triu phc, n thi Trn
Quang thi Tng. (Lch
b. Chu y, Chu thng i danh thn tng). - H b ph b, c ti du nhp vo thi L s v thi Ty Sn. Trang
Theo quy ch Triu phc ca nh Tng, ba loi phc nh Nguyn sau ny tuy cng chu nh hng su nng t ch
m Triu phc Tin Hin, iu Thin, Gii Tri u kt hp vi cng trang phc ca nh Minh, song ring Triu phc Lng Quan li khng
mt b trang phc Chu y, Chu thng (o , thng ) . Quy ch ca (3)
tip tc p dng.
mt b Chu y, Chu thng nhn chung bao gm: o bo v thng may 3. Thng phc
bng la , bn trong mc lt o Trung n la trng, tht i i, ri Thng phc ca nh L thi vua Thi T, Thi Tng vn noi theo
tht Cch i, quy T tt bng la , eo Phng tm khc lnh, cm ch quan phc ca nh Tin L. T nm 1059 tr i, vua L Thnh
ht, i tt may bng lnh trng, giy da en . (4)
Tng mi cho i quy ch Thng phc nh nh Tng. M Phc u
ti Trung Quc tri qua mt qu trnh bin i lu di vi nhiu tn
Thn y Heo Jun (Ha Tun;
1546 - 1615) mc Triu phc
gi, nhiu kiu dng khc nhau. Sau khi du nhp vo Vit Nam, loi m
Lng Quan (Trang phc ca ny cng c bin i v kiu dng, trang sc, ng thi cng tri qua
nc ta thi k Joseon qua tranh
nhn vt. Sch ny cho bit: nhiu cuc thng trm, hng ph.
Triu phc cng gi l Kim quan. a. Phc u
Triu phc l trang phc bi t
ca b quan khi vua c hnh t
l, cn mc vo ngy khnh chc,
ngy Mng Mt tt Nguyn n,
ngy Thnh tit, ngy ng ch,
khi ban b chiu sc v khi dng
biu. Tr. 42); Quan nh Minh mc
Triu phc Lng quan. (Vn
gian bang ngn sch. Bo tng
Nam Kinh Trung Quc).

1. Trung Quc lch i y quan phc sc ch. Tr.143.

2. (Trung) An Nam ch lc. Nguyn vn:
Phm Trng Ym thi Tng i m Phc u; M Phc u

thi ng cn c dng khn vn; Quan nh Minh i m Sa.
3. (Trung) Tng s - D phc ch - D phc t - Ch thn phc thng. Nguyn vn:

4. Trung Quc phc trang s. Tr.196; Trung Quc y quan phc sc i t in. Tr.744-745.
 M Phc u nguyn thy l mt dng nh c p dng vo quy ch quan phc ca triu nh i Vit. Nm
khn, gm bn di, hai di tht pha sau 1486, vua L Thnh Tng quy nh hai cnh m Sa phi nht lot cong
76 77
bung thng, hai di tht pha trc kt nt hng v pha trc. Nm 1500, vua L Hin Tng nh ra quy ch trang
nh, cho nn cn c gi l Chit thng sc vng bc ln m Phc u, quy ch cha tng xut hin ti cc triu
cn. Theo quy ch thi ng, ch c vua nh Trung Quc, Lu Cu, Triu Tin. Lc ny, ngoi vic c nh
mi c dng loi m c hai cnh cng(1). thm cc trang sc vng bc phn bit phm cp, m Phc u i
n thi Tng, Phc u thot ly khi hnh Vit cn bin i kiu dng tr nn trn tra hn tng t nh hnh dng
thc m mm, ban u lp lt c bn bi m Sa. n thi Nguyn, m Phc u k tha mt phn quy ch thi
my, bn ngoi bc mt lp the ri qut sn, v L Trung Hng, trong nhiu trng hp cng c gi vi ci tn m
sau lp the qut sn chc chn lin b lp Sa, ng thi c chia lm hai kiu: kiu m Phc u vung dnh cho
lt bng my bn trong i, gp phn trn m quan v v kiu m Phc u trn dnh cho quan vn.
pha trc xung mt bc, dui thng hai cnh Nh L p dng quy ch Thng phc ca nh Tng, tc l m
chun. Khung ca hai cnh chun thng
(2)
Phc u ca nh L v i th tng t kiu m vung vc, hai cnh
c lm bng si st, dy n hoc nan tre, chun thun di ca nh Tng. Tuy nhin, khc vi loi m Phc u
ch thnh cc hnh dng khc nhau, c dng trn khng c trang sc ca triu Tng - Minh, m Phc u triu L l
M sa thi L s (chn dung cnh thng (trc cc), cnh gp (cc cc), loi m c dt vng nh ghi nhn ca Vn hin thng kho. Vic dng
Nguyn Tri, Bo tng Lch s); hai cnh vt cho nhau (giao cc), hai cnh vng dt hoc nh ln m c th coi l truyn thng sc m nht qun
M Phc u ca Thi gim
Trnh ng ng th k XVII; cha thng ln tri (triu thin), hai cnh cong ca cc triu i Vit Nam.
M Phc u ca quan V v chch ln trn (thun phong). Theo ch b. Bo phc
quan Vn triu Nguyn (BAVH).
trang phc thi Tng, Cng phc ca b quan Nh chng ti cp, Lnh
nht lot dng m Phc u vi hai cnh chun di, thng nh thanh ngoi i p miu t s thn nh
thc, ban u cn ngn, cng v sau cng c ko di . (3)
L i s sang Tng mc o bo mu
M Phc u c p dng lm m Thng triu ca b quan nh ta. Phan Huy Ch nhn nh ch
L v nh Trn cho n thng 10 nm 1300, sau ci cch thi vua Trn phc sc ca cc quan L - Trn
Anh Tng th b ph b, nhng ch cho m inh T. Trong nhng nm phng theo ch nh Tng, tc
nh Minh h nc ta, m Phc u trn vi hai cnh chun di theo coi mu ta l mu cao qu nht,
ng quy ch Tng - Minh quay tr li Vit Nam p dng lm Cng phc th n l mu , mu lc, mu
cho quan li v sinh vin a phng(4). Tuy nhin, sau khi nh L phc bic v mu xanh. Ch phc sc
quc, thi vua L Thi T v na u thi vua L Thi Tng, b quan ny v c bn vn c p dng ai ngc nn ca vua Triu Tin v ai
ch i m Cao Sn theo quy ch quan phc nh H. Mi nm sau, thi Trn - H - L sau ny. Ngoi ngc nn xanh ca vng hu Triu Tin.
(Bo tng C cung Quc lp Seoul).
m Phc u vung v m Sa, phin bn dng trn do nh Minh ch ra, cng ging nh quan phc ca
Trung Quc thi Tng - Minh, bo phc Thng triu ca b quan nh
1. (Trung) Mng Kh bt m - Q.1 - Phc u. Tr.11. Nguyn vn: L, Trn, H, L s khng c nhiu hoa vn thu sc sc s nh Mng bo
2. (Trung) Tng s - Ch 106 - D phc ng. Nguyn vn:
thi L Trung Hng v thi Nguyn. Bo phc Thng triu cc triu
3. Trung Quc lch i y quan phc sc ch. Tr.140. i ny ch ly mu sc lm c s phn bit phm trt, hoa vn rng my
4. (Trung) An Nam ch nguyn. Tr.253. Nguyn vn: []. Nguyn
vn s dng khi nim trin gic u cn, cng chnh l m Phc u vi hai cnh chun thun di. thng ch c dt chm.
 V cht liu may o bo, Ton th cho bit nm 1040, vua L Thi
Tng dy cung n dt c gm vc, xung chiu ban pht ht gm
78
vc ca nh Tng trong kho cho b quan, cc quan t nht phm n
ng phm c mc o bo gm, t lc phm n cu phm c mc
o bo vc ; nm 1044, nhng v quan c cng trong cuc tho pht
(1)
Chim Thnh, quan t nht phm ti lc phm c mc o bo gm, t
tht phm n cu phm c mc o may bng l(2). Qua hai t tng
thng ca vua L Thi Tng dnh cho b quan, c th thy cc quan
nht phm n ng phm lun c mc o bo gm, cc quan lc phm
tr xung c th s dng cc loi o bo may t cht liu vc hoc l.
i i vi o bo cn c nhng phc sc nh ai, hia v ht. Lnh
ngoi i p m t s thn i Vit tht ai sng t nn (3), Vn hin
thng kho cho bit cc phc sc nh ng, ht, ai vng, ai sng t ca
on s thn, th no cng c dt vng. Ring vi cc quan vn thi
L - Trn, bn cnh cc ph kin ai, hia, ht, nhng v quan c cng
tch, c cao vng trng, cc sng thn cn c nh vua ban tng mt
th phc sc c hnh con c, gi l Ng i. Loi phc sc ny c git
bn ai, eo trong cc bui Thng triu t s vinh hin.
c. Ng i
Ng i l phc sc eo trn ai ca
cc quan vn. Tng s cho bit: Quy ch
Ng i c t thi ng, by gi chng l
mt dng ph hiu quy c, ban u gi l
Ng ph, bn tri mt chic, bn phi mt
chic, chic bn tri dng khi vo ni, chic
bn phi eo ty thn, khc h tn quan li,
ra vo khp li vi nhau. V ng Ng ph
trong ti, nn gi l Ng i (ng: c; i: ti).
Ng ph thi ng.
Nh Tng noi theo, nhng quy ch khc
bit, dng vng bc sc thnh hnh con c, trong b Cng phc th eo
vo ai, r ra ng sau, phn bit sang hn, khng cn l loi ph hiu
thi ng na. T nm u nin hiu Ung Hy i vua Tng Thi Tng,
1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
2. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: 2. (Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch B quan chng phc chi ch. Nguyn vn:
3. (Trung) Lnh ngoi i p. Tr.59. Nguyn vn: ,
sau l Nam Giao, ra khi i ni th ban cho
cn thn, bi vy khi vo chu b quan vn v
79
ni ngoi u eo Ng i. Phm cc quan mc
o ta, Ng i sc bng vng; cc quan mc o
, sc bng bc [] V quan thn vng, ni
chc tng hiu u khng eo.(1) Nh vy,
Ng i thi ng vn l dng ph hiu hnh
con c, ng trong ti, dng ra vo i ni.
n thi Tng, quy ch ny thay i, Ng
i khng cn c ng trong ti m dng
vng bc trc tip ch thnh hnh con c eo
ai, ch mang tnh trang sc, t s vinh hin.
Ngoi ra, cc vua i Vit thi L - Trn
cng nh cc vua thi ng - Tng u c
cng mt phng thc ban thng cho cng
Bch ha chn dung Quy Ngha thn gi l T T Kim ng i, T Ph Ng
qun tit s To Din Lc
ti hang Du Lm, n Hong. i. Theo ch ng thi, Thng phc
ca cc quan t tam phm tr ln mu ta, t
ng phm tr ln mu . Nhng chc quan km bc nhng li c cng
ln, hoc c vua sng i, nhiu khi c c ban cho mc o mu ta
hoc mu , km theo phc sc Ng i, vt quy nh phm cp hin
thi. S c ban gi l T T Kim Ng i (Ban cho mc o bo ta v Kim
Ng i), T Ph Ng i(Ban cho mc o bo v Ng i) th hin s tn trng,
yu mn ca vua i vi b ti. L Tc cng cho bit vo thi Trn trong
dp i l, quan vn eo Kim Ng, v quan khng eo.
Phan Huy Ch bnh lun: Theo vn kim thch cn li, cc quan triu
L phn nhiu c ban o - Ng i, Kim Ng i th bit thi by gi
noi theo ch nh Tng. Quy ch Ng i khng bit n thi no khng
dng na.(2) Ln theo gi ca Phan Huy Ch, chng ti tra ton b vn
bia L - Trn trong hai tp Vn khc Hn Nm. Kt qu cho thy, cm
1. (Trung) Tng s - Ch 106 - D phc ng. Nguyn vn:
[]
 t T Ph Ng i, T Kim Ng i xut hin sm nht trn vn khc 1185 Bia cha Th T - Kim Ng i
Chung x Thanh Mai vi nin i nm 798 (thi thuc ng), v mun ~1214 Chc Din Triu ngh i phu
80 Thnh 81
nht l trn vn bia cha Vnh Bo khc nm 1391 (cui thi Trn). Bo n
1314 Chung Trn Nht Ni kim hiu Thi y T - Kim Ng i
~1324 Qun Dut Bnh chng s Thanh
Thng Ha ph l nguyn
BNG THNG K NG I
Thnh soi, Thng tr quc,
Theo Vn khc Hn Nm Bch Khai quc vng
Hc

Nm Tn bia H tn Chc tc c ban 1367 Bia thp Trn Thng tr quc, Khai T - Kim Ng i
Hin Nguyn quc Cung Tnh
B Phn quan th Vn chu Ph - Ng i Diu Trc i vng
m Bnh ph bit tng
1382 Bia cha H Tng Vinh lc i phu, Th T - Kim Ng i
Quch Lp Kinh chu T mn ph Ph - Ng i T n Thc trung th lnh kim Hn
Chit xung lm hc s phng ch,
Tri thm hnh vin s,
Cao Thi Nha tin t tng, th Ph - Ng i Thng h qun
Bnh H chu H tp
ph bit tng 1391 Bia cha Trn [?] Thi trung i phu, Hn T - Kim Ng i
Vnh Bo Cng lm hc s, Thi Nguyn
Hong Ngn chu bit tng, T - Kim Ng i (khuyt tn l An ph s kim
Nh ao Thng tr quc m) Chuyn vn s
798 Chung
x Thanh L Hoi Qu chu bit tng, T - Kim Ng i
Mai Trung Thng tr quc
Tuy nhin, trong khi Phan Huy Ch (1782 - 1840) ni rng khng bit
Anh Qun chu du dch s, T - Kim Ng i
Thng tr quc n thi no khng dng quy ch Ng i, th L Qu n (1726 - 1784)
Hoi Qun chu th s, Sung T - Kim Ng i
tip tc ghi nhn s tn ti ca Kim Ng i vo thi L s qua i Vit
Bch bn chu du s, thng s, theo , Kim Ng i vn c vua L Li ban thng cho cc
Thng tr quc
cng thn khong t nm 1426 n nm 1460. Chnh Nguyn Tri cng
Qung Ty Bnh chu th s, T - Kim Ng i
l bc khai quc cng thn c ban Kim Ng i v o bo ta(1).
Du Thng tr quc
Ti Trung Quc, Ng i c t nh vo thi ng v b ph b
Bia cha L Tha n Triu lit i phu, ng T - Kim Ng i vo thi Minh(2). Ti Vit Nam, mt s t liu vn t cho thy Ng i xut
1107 Bo Ninh thng cp mn s, hin t rt sm, c th sm hn nin i 798 ca Chung x Thanh Mai,
Sng Thng th vin
Phc ngoi lang v c duy tr n khong nhng nm 1460 mi b ph b. i vi hnh
1118 Bia cha Chu Phng nghi lang, th Ph - Ng i
dng Ng i ca Vit Nam, chng ta ch bit mt thng tin duy nht do
Sng Nguyn Thi thng tha, kim Chu Kh Phi cung cp, l trong on s gi i Vit sang Tng, cc
Nghim Ho Qun ng ph ti ha,
Din Kiu k y
Thnh 1. Tn phm tc y ca Nguyn Tri l Tuyn phng i phu Nhp ni Hnh khin Mn h Hu gin
ngh i phu ng Trung th lnh s T T Kim Ng i Thng h quc Quan phc hu t tnh L Tri.
1121 Bia thp L Bo Hu th lang, Thng T - Kim Ng i
Sng Cung th, Cng b vin ngoi (Vit) c Trai di tp - Q.3. Tr.36. Nguyn vn:
Thin lang, ng tri Thm
Din hnh Vin s, Thng 2. (Hn) Nghin Kinh Trai ton tp - Q.47 - Phc sc kho. Nguyn vn:
Linh khinh xa y Nh Tng li dng vng bc sc thnh hnh con c.
Trong b Cng phc th eo ai, r xung pha sau, cho m quan, vinh hin. n thi Minh th ph b
 ma r rt. Ma ng gi rt, ma h nng
nc, bt k trang phc ca vua cha, quan
82 83
li hay binh lnh u c s phn bit gia
trang phc ma ng v trang phc ma h,
thm ch cn c trang phc ma thu.
1. Gip Tr
Tng s cho bit, trn chin gia Tng
v i C Vit din ra vo ma xun nm
981, qun Tng chin thng v thu c
hai trm chin thuyn cng mt vn b
Gip Tr ca i C Vit(1). Ma xun nm
1002, vua L Hon xung chiu ch to hng
nghn m u Mu cho su qun(2).
u Mu l tn gi khc ca m
Tr, th m bo v phn u ca binh s
khi gio mc, v hnh dng ging chic Tng cha i mc Gip Tr,
mu, mt loi ni thi c ca Trung Quc trong vn bia c gi l Thin
nhn - Thn tng, sau c nh
1. Ng i. Hin vt Ng i ca Nht Bn (Di 13cm, rng 3cm, dy 1,5cm. Ct gi ti Shsin). nn c gi l u Mu(3). Ti Vit Nam, ng thnh Kim Cng bt b.
2. Hnh v Ng i trong sch Oa Hn Tam ti hi. 3. Hnh Ng i trn bch ha chn dung Do l thn tng, nn c th v
To Din Lc (hang Du Lm, n Hong). s xut hin ca m u Mu trong c s
mt trang phc, phn no th hin
sm nht l vo nm 485, th s Giao Chu trang phc ca tng v thi L.
quan vn v u mc o bo ta, eo ai sng t nn , khng eo Ng L Thc Hin sai s sang nh T xin bi
i. T sau khi cng voi, L Bang Chnh tip tc i s ti Khm Chu, lin binh, dng 20 c m u Mu ton bng bc cng di tua bng lng
c thm chic Kim Ng i rt di v ln. C kh nng trc nm 1059,
(1)
cng cm ln chp m(4); nm 549, Triu Vit Vng cu khn thn
Ng i ca Vit Nam vn cn mang dng thc Ng ph thi ng. linh c c m u Mu chp cm mng rng nh gic(5). Nm
T sau khi vua L Thnh Tng quy nh ch Thng phc Phc u 571, L Pht T em qun nh Triu Vit Vng, Triu Vit Vng
phng theo quy ch Tng, Ng i ca Vit Nam c th c i sang thng tht c qun, i m u Mu ng ch.(6) n thi H sau
kiu dng mi, song kch c to v di hn Ng i ca nh Tng. ny, khi H Nguyn Trng b bt sang Bc Kinh, ng ln u tin m
Khi Gip xng ch to o Gip v m Tr cho Trung Quc. Cc s
III. Trang phc qun i liu trn cho thy b Gip Tr c p dng lm qun trang cho qun
C kin cho rng, Vit Nam l x nng nn qun trang khng th i nc Vit xut hin t rt sm, tng c s dng trong nhiu
c o Gip, m Tr, v nu c cng khng dy dn, nhiu trang sc nh
Gip Tr ca cc nc ng . Tuy nhin, y ch l kin mang tnh 1. (Trung) Tng s - Q.488 - Lit truyn - 247 - Ngoi quc t - Giao Ch i L. Nguyn vn:
c on, bi l trn quc th thi L, Trn, L, thi tit Vit Nam c bn
2. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
3. Trung Quc y quan phc sc i t in. Tr.84-85.
4. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
1. (Trung) Lnh ngoi i p. Nguyn vn: 5. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
6. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
 triu i phong kin Vit Nam, ngoi tr inh, c duy tr s dng n cui thi Hu L vi t cch l mt loi
triu Nguyn. m qun trang.
84 85
Din mo Gip Tr t thi inh, Vo thi L, Ton th ch nhc ti b trang phc Gip Tr, khng
L tr v trc khng c hin vt lm ng ti chic m T Phng Bnh nh. Song v loi m ny n
chng. Gip Tr thi L - Trn, xt mt thi L Li khi ngha vn c s dng lm qun trang, chng t tri
chng mc nht nh, c th tham kho qua cc triu i L, Trn, H, T Phng Bnh nh vn c k tha,
t pho tng Kim Cng cha Long i p dng cho mt b phn binh lnh ca triu nh i Vit.
v tng tng lnh khai qut ti di tch
Bo Thp, x Thng Li, huyn Vn n,
Qung Ninh. B Gip phc th hin trn
hai pho tng ny tuy khng hon ton
ng nht, song u c s k tha, m
phng t b Gip Minh Quang
Tng Kim Cng thi L.
1. (BTMTVN); 2. (iu khc c Vit ca nh ng vi c trng l hai
Nam); 3. (Hoa vn Vit Nam). tm h tm hnh trn trc ngc v hai
ming trang sc hnh u h gn hai bn vai. Cn lu thm rng, nm
1009(1) v nm 1014(2), vua L Long nh v vua L Thi T ch ng
xin cc b Gip Tr vng ca nh Tng, v c vua Tng chp thun. m ma ca mt qu tc ng Ngoi (S. Baron,
1683. Dn theo T liu cc cng ty ng n
2. T Phng Bnh nh v Anh v K Ch - ng Ngoi th k XVIII);
Ngoi trang phc Gip Tr dnh cho tng Binh lnh tp v trn thp gm thi Trn (Bo
tng Lch s Vit Nam. nh: TQ).
lnh v mt s i qun c bit, ma xun nm
974, vua inh Tin Hong nh ra Thp o
qun, lnh cho binh lnh cc o u i m T 3. Ci trn ng kh
Phng Bnh nh . Loi m ny c Ton
(3)
Ngoi trang phc Gip Tr, T Phng Bnh nh, binh lnh i
th m t l lm bng da, nh m phng, bn Vit n cui thi Hu L vn lu gi tc ci trn ng kh c xa ca
bn khu gip li, trn hp di rng, quy ch n ng Giao Ch. Chng ta c th thy li trang phc gin tin ny qua
ny n i bn triu (Hu L) khi ngha vn cn hnh nh ngi lnh din tp v ngh th hin trn thp gm thi Trn,
dng, i sau cng noi theo.(4) Nh vy chic M T Phng Bnh nh qua bc ha ngi An Nam trong Tam ti hi(1) thi Minh, qun Giao
m T Phng Bnh nh xut hin t thi ca nho sinh thi Minh Ch v nm 1590 trong Boxer Codex v.v. c bit, bc ha m ma ca
(Trung Quc phc trang s).
mt qu tc ng Ngoi v i rc kiu vua L do S. Baron v khong
nhng nm 1683 th hin nhng ngi n ng rc quan ti v phu
1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: . (Trung) An Nam ch lc L th th gia. Nguyn
vn: . (Trung) Tng s - Q.488 Lit truyn 247 Ngoi quc t - Giao Ch
i L. Nguyn vn: .
2. (Trung) An Nam ch lc - L th th gia v Tng hi yu tp co - Phin di nht - Giao Ch. Mc ngy 17 1. Vng K, tc gi ca Tam ti hi, c thin kin khng tt p v ngi Vit. Tuy nhin, gt i nhng
thng 7 nm th 7 i Trung Tng Ph (1015) u chp: li l ph bng, c th thy nhng bc ha trong Tam ti hi vn c gi tr tham kho nht nh. i Vit
3. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: [] s k tc bin cho bit cha Trnh Giang sai t thn xt duyt sch Tam ti hi bn nh ra l nhc
4. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: (Tr.135). Ph bin tp lc cho bit cha Nguyn Phc Khot h lnh tham kho Tam ti hi t ra trang
phc cho ng Trong (Tr.334).
 khing kiu vua vn ci trn ng Marco Polo ghi nhn, ti Giao Ch, thng thng
kh, chng t theo quan nim ca c n ng ln ph n u v trn ngi nhiu hnh
86 87
ngi Vit xa kia, ci trn ng kh th nh s t, rng, chim chc, vn vn, v cc hnh
c coi l vic ht sc bnh thng, c v bng kim trnh b phai mt [...] h cho
dung d, c s dng ngay c trong rng trn ngi cng nhiu hnh xm th cng p v
nhng trng hp tng nh cn ra dng qu tc(1). Tuy nhin, t nm 1323 thi vua
phi lch s, trang nghim nht. Ch Trn Minh Tng tr i, triu nh tuyn qun li ly
ring nh Nguyn v sau mi t thi ngi bo trng lm hng trn, vy nn t qun s
khinh b, cho rng li y phc c khng cn tip tc xm mnh na.(2)
cu ca Bc H qu kch, ng thi Ngoi nhng hnh rng cun xm trn ngc,
ra lnh nghim cm tc ng kh. bng v i, Trn Cng Trung cn miu t c k
Lnh Giao Ch v nm 1590 trong Boxer
Bn cnh , qua nhng nt v tr vo ngc my ch (Ngha
Codex v lnh cm c dt nga thi L. (Bo
tng Lch s Vit Nam). th s trn thp gm hoa nu thi d quyn khu, hnh vu bo quc tc v ngha qun
Trn, chng ta vn c th nhn ra mnh, t lng bo quc). Ngay con em ca vua nc Tng n
(tc ngn).
hnh rng cun xm trn i nhng ngi lnh i Vit. Ton th chp: ny cng nh vy. Ring binh lnh thi L, trn trn
Bui u dng nc, qun s u xm hoa vn hnh rng bng, lng u xm ba ch (Thin t qun)(3) nh binh lnh thi Tin L(4).
v hai v i.(1) Cng c trng hp hnh rng c xm ngc, nh Theo ghi chp ca Lnh ngoi i p th ba ch ny c xm theo
chnh Ton th ghi nhn: Ngi Tng thy trong b ng y c tn h chiu ngang(5).
Dng, ngc hn xm hnh rng en, v bn th lnh chu B nm
ngi, bit l ngi nc Vit ta, u tr v.(2) Chu Kh Phi miu t hnh IV. TRANG PHC DN GIAN
xm trn ngi thi L nh hnh dng trng ng , cn s thn nh
(3)
1. Y phc
Nguyn Trn Cng Trung miu t hnh xm ca qun dn thi Trn Tr li thi im cch nay 1000 nm, quc th i Vit ni chung,
l nhng hnh mc cu ni lin gp khc, nh hnh dng l nh bng kinh thnh Thng Long ni ring l ni c tr ca nhiu tc ngi, cng
ng thi xa. (4)
Nh vy, hnh xm m Chu Kh Phi v Trn Cng c man n l, t binh nc ngoi. Ngay t nm 862, An Nam Kinh lc s
Trung miu t nhiu kh nng chnh l hoa vn rng cun trn c Phn Xc ghi nhn: B lc Mang man [] nh lu, khng c thnh
trng ca thi k ny. Cn ni thm rng, vo thi L, vic xm hnh quch, sn rng, u mc qun vi xanh, dng ct my qun quanh eo,
rng ln c th tng b triu nh cm p dng i vi thn phn n l vi sn qun bi tc, bung phn tha ra pha sau lm trang sc. n
v y t, nh o lnh cui nm 1118 cm gia n xm hnh rng ln b khoc o sa la ng sc. Chim cng lm t trn cy nh h. Voi to nh
ngi, o lut ban hnh vo thng 6 nm 1157 quy nh gia n ca con tru. Tc ngi th nui voi cy rung, t c phn ca n []
cc vng hu khng c xm hnh rng ngc (5)
v.v. Vo thi Trn, Ngy 21 thng 12 nm Hm Thng th 3 (tc 862), cng c tc Mang man

1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
2. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
3. (Trung) Lnh ngoi i p. Nguyn vn:
4. (Trung) S Giao thi tp. Nguyn vn:
5. (Vit) i Vit s lc. Nguyn vn:
1. Vn dm ca Marco Polo. Dn theo Nhng l khch trong hnh trnh khm ph Vit Nam. Tr.20
2. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
3. (Vit) Ton th. Mc thng 8 ma Thu nm 1059. Nguyn vn:
4. (Trung) Tng S. Giao Ch truyn. Tr.14061. Nguyn vn:
5. (Trung) Lnh ngoi i p. Nguyn vn: . Qun nhn u xm ngang ln
trn ba ch Thin t binh. y Chu Kh Phi chp lm ch Binh.
 ny qun t b sng T Lch An Nam n en, ci trm bc hoc st, i dp da,
hai ba nghn i . Phong kh hn hu cht
(1)
cm qut lng hc, i nn c. Dp
88 89
phc, tp tc mng mn an xen t kinh da, dng da lm , gia thm tr nh,
k, n cui thi H vn c Nguyn Phi ly ngn chn kp li m i. Qut, tt
Khanh ghi li bng cu th: Trng An t xa t lng chim hc, trnh rn. Nn
l t vng [] Phong tc ln vi Di c, an t lt trc, hnh dng nh con
Lo, nhn dn nh thi thi c. Cao Hng (2)
c, trng tinh xo nht. Ph n nhiu
Trng, tc gi An Nam ch nguyn cng ghi ngi trng tro, khc hn n ng,
nhn: Nhng ni thnh quch trng yu thch mc o trc lnh mu lc thng
tp np gn ng chim ngng, phn tay, u tht bng thng en.(1)
Mnh ph Vit Nam thi L mc o trc lnh
ln phng theo kiu cch Trung Hoa. Nhng Nh vy, cch n mc ngy mu lc. (Tp ch T Cm Thnh); Ph n
ni bin phng lng x thn xm xa vn thng ca n ng thi L gm thi L mc o c trn, dng vy quy li
bn ngoi. (Bo tng M thut Vit Nam).
noi theo thi c, cha thay i ht c. (3)
hai chic o c trn mc lng ghp.
Nh vy, trang phc trong dn gian ng Chic o ngoi cng x bn vt, di lp o ny c quy mt dng
thi hn rt a dng. xim mu en, cn c gi l thng, bn trong cng l chic qun la
o c trn bn vt, bn trong
quy Thng en, trong cng Tuy nhin, xt ring din trang phc trng, tng t li n mc ca quan dn thi Trn theo li m t ca L
mc qun l trng. (Phc dng); ngi Vit sng trong thnh, Chu Kh Phi Tc. Chu Kh Phi cn nhn xt, nhng ngi Vit i giy tt do chi
Dp quai ngang thi Nguyn (K
thut ca ngi An Nam). cho bit: Ngi nc y o thm, rng en, ph phng trng khng khc ngi nc ta (tc ngi Tng)(2). Triu Nh
bi tc chuy k, i t, sang hn u nh vy. Thch, tc gi Ch Phin ch (nm 1225) cng c li bnh tng t v
Vua ngy thng cng vy, song ci trm vng, trn mc o Sam vng, di ngi i Vit rng trang phc v m thc kh ging Trung Quc, song
mc thng ta. Nhng ngi cn li, ngy thng trn th vn o Sam khc bit l nam n u i chn t(3). Ngoi ra, vic thng xuyn mang
en c trn b st, bn vt nh o Bi T, gi l o T in; di th vn theo qut c th coi l mt trong nhng c im ni bt ca ngi Vit
thng en. Hoc c k ci trm st, c k i dp da, tay cm qut lng hc, tri t thi L n thi Nguyn. Nh nm 1621, Cristophoro Borri cng
u i nn hnh c [] n b trng tro, khc hn n ng. Thng en miu t ngi Vit ng Trong: C n ng n b u a cm qut rt
l phc sc quy bn ngoi ca n ng. (4)
M oan Lm tham kho ghi ging nh chu u. H cm l cm ly l thi.(4)
chp ca Chu Kh Phi, ng thi ch thch: Nhng ngi cn li u mc i vi trang phc ca n gii, qua miu t ca M oan Lm, ph
o c trn bn vt, o Sam en khng tht lng, di o Sam tht thng n i Vit u thch mc o trc lnh mu lc, thng tay, u tht bng
vy en. Khi nim o trc lnh thng c hiu l o giao lnh, s d
gi trc lnh (c thng) ch yu nhm phn bit vi loi o vin lnh (c
1. (Trung) Man th - Q.4 - Danh loi t. Nguyn vn: []
trn). Thch danh nh ngha: Trc lnh, c o chch thng xung, giao
[]862

2. Th vn L Trn. Tp 3. Tuyn chiu bi bit Vn ph Nguyn Vim. Tr.447. Nguyn vn:
[] 1. (Trung) Vn hin thng kho. Nguyn vn:
3. (Trung) An Nam ch nguyn - Quyn 2 - Phong tc. Nguyn vn:

4. (Trung) Lnh ngoi i p. Tr.59-60. Nguyn vn: 2. (Trung) Lnh ngoi i p. Nguyn vn:
[] 3. (Trung) Ch phin ch - Giao Ch quc. Nguyn vn:
[] 4. X ng Trong 1621. Tr.56.
 nhau pha di.(1) Vo thi L,
loi o trc lnh ht sc ph bin,
90 91
p dng cho c n ng v n b.
Nm 1744, nh L sau khi t nha
mn Trn ph Thun Ha lin
xung ch d buc ngi x ng
Trong phi thay i y phc, quay
v tc l ca min Bc; t d ny
vit: Y phc bn quc vn c ch
[] Nhng loi qun o kiu
ngi Khch thng mc m nay
vn thy nn i theo th ch ca 1. Din vin Cho Thu Huyn trong vai Sy Vn. (nh: TQ); 2. Ph n Vit thi L (Hong
Tng th n thi Bc Tng trong in Thnh Thanh chc cng ); 3-4. Ph n ng Ngoi v ng Trong nm 1590 trong Boxer Codex.
Mu n Tn T thnh ph Thi Nguyn, Trung nc nh (ch tc nh L, min Bc) []
Quc; Ph n H Ni nm 1645 (Vn quc n ng n b dng o trc lnh 2. Kiu tc
nhn vt . Nht Bn).
ngn tay (tay o chm n c tay), ng tay Ngi Vit c cu tc ng Ci rng ci tc l gc con ngi th
rng hp cho c ty tin. C iu, sau khi nh Nguyn thng nht t
(2)
hin s coi trng rng tc nh phn din mo trc tip biu hin nhn
nc, mt trong nhng lnh cm y phc thi Minh Mng cng bao gm cch. Theo thm m quan ca ngi Vit xa kia, mi tc di mt, hm
iu cm o giao lnh i vi ph n . (3)
rng en nhnh mi c coi l p. Tuy nhin, khc vi tnh n nh
Ngoi ra, chng ti tn ng kin ca TS. on Th Tnh khi cho ca tc nhum rng en, kiu tc Vit tri qua nghn nm c nhiu
rng dng o di T thn ca ph n Vit c nhiu nt tng ng vi o bin i, khng phi thi no cng c m tp n nht n ng bi t,
Bi t ca ph n nh Tng , ng thi cho rng dng o T thn c
(4)
n b vn khn nh n tng chung ca ngi Vit hin i v t tin
lu hnh v ph bin vo thi k ny. Xt v kiu dng, o Bi T v o t trong qu kh. Qua kho st t liu hnh nh v vn t tng quan, c th
thn u l loi o x t hai bn sn, c hai vt kiu i khm, c o c vin thy ngi Vit t thi L n thi Nguyn tng nhiu kiu tc khc
chy thng xung di, di qu gi. o Bi t thnh hnh vo thi Tng, nhau, song nhn chung c bn cch tc ph bin, bao gm: 1. bi tc
trn t hong hu phi tn, di ti ca k, t thip trong cc bui l tip, yn chuy k; 2. co trc; 3. ct tc ngn; 4. xa tc di. Trong , bi tc chuy
hi u mc. Loi o T thn thi Nguyn thng thy l loi o hp tay, k (bi tc c hnh) l kiu tc thnh hnh vo thi L, v l kiu tc n
tuy nhin t thi L tr v trc, ng tay o rng hp u c ty nghi s nht ca nam gii Vit thi Nguyn; tc co trc u thng thy thi
dng. Bn cnh , qua cc hnh v ngi Giao Ch trong Boxer Codex (nin Trn; mi tc ngn chm vai ph bin vo thi Trn v L s; tc xa di
i 1590), c th thy trang phc vy, ym kt hp vi chic o cc tng t c a chung vo thi L - Trnh. Ti phn ny, chng ti i su lm r
nh trang phc ph n Mng thi nay cng l dng trang phc ph bin bi tc chuy k. Tc ct tc ngn v bung xa tc di, chng ti s ln
ca ph n Vit thi L, thm ch c th truy ti thi L Trn. lt trnh by ti phn kho v kiu tc ca ngi thi Trn v thi L.
S liu sm nht cp ti vic ngi Vit bi tc chuy k l S k
ca T M Thin, vi dng miu t Triu nhim theo phong tc ca
1. (Trung) Thch danh Thch y phc:
2. (Vit) Ph bin tp lc - Phong tc. Nguyn vn: [] ngi Vit bi tc chuy k, ngi di th gp Lc Gi(1). n th k III
[]
3. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Nguyn vn:
4. Trang phc Thng Long H Ni. Tr.55. 1. (Trung) S k - L Sinh Lc Gi lit truyn. Nguyn vn:
 sau Cng nguyn, Thi th Tit bi tc. Nhan S C gii thch chuy k l bi tc bng mt nm tay, hnh
Tng trong t s xin chn Th nh ci v(1). Kiu bi tc ny phn ln c bi sau u, thm ch di
92 93
s Giao chu miu t ngi xung gy. Trng Thng trong Doanh nhai thng lm tp (th k XV)
Vit: Bi tc chuy k, i t, miu t kiu tc ca ngi Chm n ng u b tc ri, n b bi tc
(mc o) chui u vt tri . (1)
chuy k pha sau(2). Sch Cu ng th miu t bn v cng nc
Th k XI, Chu Kh Phi qua Cao Ly bi tc chuy k pha sau, dng la sm tht quanh trn, sc
Lnh ngoi i p cho bit, thm nhc bng vng(3), ng thi miu t ngi man vng Ty Nam
ngi Vit u mc o thm, Trung Quc trai gi u bi tc chuy k, dng la tht li, ng xung
Diu i b nguyt (Nam Tng. BTCCBK). rng en, bi tc chuy k, i pha sau(4). Ring bi tc ca nam gii thi Nguyn, Mai Vin on
t, khng phn sang hn, u Trin cho bit: n ng bi tc sau nh u, sau vn khn.(5)
nh vy. Vua ngy thng cng vy, song ci trm vng.(2) Vo th k XV, Kt hp nhng ghi chp trn y vi hnh nh ngi n ng thi
Cao Hng Trng dn Nam Vit ngoi k miu t ngi Vit hoc bi tc kn trn cn mui ng Sn, hnh nh ngi ph n
chuy k, hoc ct tc ngn, xm mnh, i t, ming , rng en, sang trn trng ng ng X, u tng ngi men nu
hn u n tru cau . u th k XIX, Phm nh H ghi nhn: Nay
(3)
sm thi L v hng lot t liu nh chp ngi Vit
tc nc ta (tc thi Nguyn) bi tc chuy k, vn khn vi thm. Nm 1835, (4)
Nam thi Nguyn, c th thy bi tc ca ngi dn
Thi nh Lan ngi Thanh m t ph n Vit Trung Nam k ra ngoi Vit hu ht to c nm tay chch sau nh u, thm
bun bn, bi tc chuy k, i chn t, dng la qun u, i nn l c ch di xung gn gy, khc vi bi tc gn nh nh
nh phng . (5)
u ca nam gii Trung Quc thi Tng - Minh v nam
Tuy nhin cn nhn mnh gii ngi Triu Tin. Bi tc chuy k vo thi Nguyn
rng, kiu tc chuy k khng phi c gi l bi tc c hnh, c kiu, hay n gin l
kiu tc ca ring ngi Vit. y bi t. Vo thi L, ngoi bi tc c hnh, ngi Vit
cng l kiu bi tc chung ca cn ct tc ngn hoc xa tc. n thi Trn, thi L,
Tng u ngi
nhiu tc ngi, trong c ngi nhng ai tc xa di khi no cn thun tin li bi thi L (C vt
Chn Lp(6), Chim Thnh v.v. Xt mt bi tc sau u, nh chng ta c th thy hai Thng Long H Ni)

danh xng chuy k , chuy c

(7)
pho tng lnh hu th k XVIII ti lng Dinh Hng, tng lnh dng
ngha l ci v, phn ln c u nh Th H, Bc Giang v.v. Tuy nhin, vo thi L s, bi tc chuy k
Ngi thi kn trn cn mui thi ng Sn
kh to hoc hnh trn , k l (8) (Bo tng Lch s Tp.HCM. nh: TQ). tng c coi l biu hin ca s lc hu, l phong tc ca nhng sc
dn bin vin. T chiu ban ngy mng 6 thng 11 nm 1470 c on
1. (Trung) Tam quc ch - Ng th - Tit Tng truyn. Nguyn vn: .
2. (Trung) Lnh ngoi i p. Nguyn vn:
1. (Trung) Hn th - L Lng truyn. Nguyn vn:
3. (Trung) An Nam ch nguyn - Q.2 - Phong tc. Nguyn vn: Hai ngi u mc y phc ca ngi H, bi tc chuy kt. Nhan S C ch thch: Kt ( y)
c l K, bi tc bng mt nm tay, hnh nh ci v. Dn theo zdic.net mc t chuy k
4. (Vit) V trung ty bt Quyn thng Quan l. Nguyn vn: 2. (Trung) K lc vng bin - Q.63 - Doanh nhai thng lm tp - Chim Thnh. Nguyn vn:
5. (Trung) Hi Nam tp tr. Nguyn vn:
6. (Trung) Chn Lp phong th k. Tr.17. Nguyn vn: [] trai gi u bi tc chuy k, 3. (Trung) Cu ng th - Ch cu - m nhc nh - Cao Ly nhc. Nguyn vn:
i chn t
7. Chuy k c ba cch vit: , , Trong , u l cch dng gi t. Cch vit chun 4. (Trung) Cu ng th - Lit truyn nht bch t thp tht - Nam man - Ty Nam man. Nguyn vn:
l
8. Hin i Hn ng t in. Tr.217. 5. (Vit) An Nam phong tc sch. Nguyn vn:

94
Chc cng ha quyn (rng 29.5 cm, di 580 cm, hin lu gi ti Bo tng C cung Bc Kinh)
c v bi ha s cung nh nh Minh, Cu Anh (1494? - 1552). Trong ha quyn ny xut hin
cc on cng s ca nc Ty H, i Liu, Tam Pht T... u l cc nc tn ti vo th k
XIII. Bc ha trn xut hin dng ch An Nam h (Nc An Nam mng) trn l c nn chng
ti ng rng, on cng s ny c th l on cng s ca nh L. Cu Anh c l chp li mt
bc tranh c t trc . Cn lu rng, cc nhn vt th hin trong bc ha ny hu ht u
vn khn. (China: The Three Emperors 1662 1795).
vit: Thi Thi Tng Vn hong , bn trong sa sang, bn ngoi nh
dp, nhng k mc xim c, bi tc chuy k cng tro ni vt bin ti
chu, mun ni mn c, tm ci phc uy(1). Ch n thi Nguyn, bi
tc chuy k mi c thng nht p dng cho nam gii trong ton quc.
i vi kiu tc ca vua quan nh L, Chu Kh Phi cho bit vua nh
L vo ngy thng khng phi thit triu cng bi tc chuy k, ch khc
l ci thm trm vng. Ton th ghi nhn vic vua L Hu Tng pht
in, c khi t xng l thin tng ging trn, cm cy c nh ln bi
tc(2). Da vo cch ni ca Chu Kh Phi, c l trong nhng bui thit
triu, i l, vua quan nh L khng bi tc chuy k nh ngy thng. C
th h bi mt bi tc nh u nh vua quan nh Tng, cng c th
bung xa tc nh vua quan nh L?
Ngoi ra, Chu Kh Phi cn miu t ngi Vitly cao thm chut
tc nh sn, bc khn the en, nh trn v nh, t trn tr ln, np gp
1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: 2. (Vit) D s lc bin i Vit quc Nguyn triu thc lc. Q.8. Tr.3. Nguyn vn:
2. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: (Nm
1217)
nh nh may ln n tn chp [...] Chn i giy tt, do chi ph phng,
trng khng khc ngi nc ta, song nhn khn ca h th c th nhn
95
ra.(1) Qua miu t trn, c th thy khn bc tc ca ngi thi L l
mt dng khn vn. Khn ny c vn kn nh u, to np gp trn
dng ch Nht , ring phn chp c x l thnh dng khum trn.
y khng phi li vn khn to bn, cng knh nh ngi ng Trong
sau nm 1744, cng khng hon ton ng nht vi kiu vn l nh
u, ch vn quanh trn v bi tc ph bin ca nam gii thi Nguyn.
Cn lu rng, ch t sau nm 1744, ngi Vit ng Trong mi
bt u bi tc, vn khn phn bit vi ngi nh L min Bc, theo
chnh sch ca cha Nguyn Phc Khot.
D s lc bin i Vit quc Nguyn triu
thc lc ghi nhn: (Nm 1744) Cha bn
thay y phc, i phong tc, cng dn i
mi, bt u h lnh cho nam n s th
trong nc, u mc o nhu bo, mc qun,
vn khn.(2) Tuy nhin n nm 1792, ch
c mt s ngi ng Trong vn khn, c
bit l lnh nh b. John Barrow trong Mt
chuyn du hnh n x Nam H (1792 -
1793) cho bit: Mi tc en di ca h i
Lnh ng Trong nm 1793 di nt
khi c qun thnh bi c nh trn nh v ca William Alexander.
u, i khi c bung lng thnh nhng
ln tc r xung sau lng, thng l ti tn mt t. Mt s ngi cht
khn qun u, c hnh dng ging nh chic khn xp ca ngi Hi
gio(3). Chng ti t gi thit, c th tc vn khn ca ngi ng Trong
sau nm 1744, chu nh hng t phong tc ca ngi Trung ng gin
tip qua tc vn khn ca ngi Chm hoc ngi Thi. Ring ngi
Chm, trc th k XV cng cha c tc vn khn nh ta thy hin nay.
1. (Trung) Lnh ngoi i p. Tr.59-60. Nguyn vn:
[]
3. Mt chuyn du hnh n x Nam H (1792-1793). Tr.83

Ph lc 1
96
MT S GHI CHP LIN QUAN TI TRANG PHC CHIM THNH
T TH K VI N TH K XV
Nam T th (th k VI): Vua i m Thin quan nh m Pht, mnh
khoc di anh lc thm (Tn th chp khng c ch thm. Anh lc l chui dy
tt bng cc loi chu ngc eo c, vn l trang sc eo trn tng Pht. Ting Pali:
Keyra) Ph n khi ci mc o gi lam (o nh cha?) kh ngang may
khp li nh thnh ging, u i hoa bo (Tn th chp l bo hoa) [] Khi
c tang th ct tc, coi l o hiu(1).
Ty th (th k VII): Vua i m hoa
vng, hnh dng nh m Chng Ph, mc
o may bng vi Triu h (rng my sm, c l
ch hoa vn?), khoc di anh lc nh cc lot
ngc chu, chn i dp da, cng c khi li
mc o gm Ngi nc y mt su mi
cao, tc qun da en, tc u i t, dng
kh vi qun ngi, ma ng mc o kp.
Ph n bi tc chuy k [] (Khi c tang)
n ng n b u ct tc, theo m ma
n bn nc, au bun tt bc ri thi,
khi tr v th khng khc na(2).
Nam s (th k VII): n ng n b
u dng kh vi C Bi (cng gi l Ct Bi.
L Qu n dn sch n trai nhn lm cho bit:
Thn Siva, tng Chm, c eo anh
T Mn Lnh tr v pha Nam c nhiu cy go.
lc, qun ngn l v i. (BTLSVN)
Ngi bn th ua nhau trng bng, c n my
nghn gc, hoa ca n dng lm vi, gi l vi Ct Bi. Li nh cc nc Lm p c cy
1. (Trung) Nam T th - Q.58 - Lit truyn tam thp cu - Man - ng Nam di - Nam di - Lm p quc.
Nguyn vn: [][] []
2. (Trung) Ty th - Q.82 - Lit truyn t thp tht - Nam man - Lm p. Nguyn vn :
[] 6. (Trung) Ch phin ch - Chim Thnh quc. Nguyn vn: [][]
[]
Ct Bi, hoa cy y khi m bng nh lng ngng, rt si ra dt lm vi th khng khc
vi gai(1). Ting Pali: kappsa. Ting Khmer: Kupah) qun ngang t eo tr xung,
gi l Can Mn, cng gi l Mn; x l tai eo khuyn nh. Ngi sang 97
i dy da, k hn i t. T Lm p, Ph Nam ti cc nc pha Nam u
nh vy. Vua nc y mc php phc, eo thm di anh lc, trang sc
nh tng Pht [] Qu ph mt mnh th xa tc n gi(2).
Cu ng th (th k X): Vua mc o ip trng (ip: vi len mn; L
Qu n dn sch Thng gim cho bit ngi man Nht Nam dt bng lm vi, trn
c ch nh xen ln c hoa, rt kho lo, gi l vi ip trng(3)), C Bi, qun cho
vai, vng quanh eo, bn trn eo thm ht trn chu, kha vng, lm
thnh di anh lc, tc qun, u i (m) hoa. Phu nhn mc o lm
bng vi Triu h, vy ngn lm bng vi C Bi, u i (m) hoa vng,
mnh eo di anh lc kt ngc chu, kha vng. Th v ca nh vua c
nm ngn tn lnh, tho dng n v kch, dng my lm gip, ly tre lm
cung, ci voi chin u [] Cha m mt, con co tc m khc(4).
i Vit s lc: (Nm 1069) Vua (ch vua L Thnh Tng) t Chim
Thnh v [] ngi ng trn xe bu, qun thn u ci nga dn ng.
Vua Chim Thnh C (tc Ch C, Rudravarman III) i m Ma Ct (ma: vi
gai; ct: xng; Ma Ct c l l phin m tn gi ca ngi Chm), mc o may bng
vi ip trng, dng la tht lng. Vua lnh cho nm ngi thuc Hng
V dn i, li tri bn ng thuc a i cng.(5)
Ch Phin ch: Vua Chm [] i m vng, mnh eo anh lc []
Ngi Chm a sch s, mt ngy tm bn nm ln, ly long no, x
hng bi ln c th, li t cc loi hng xng o.(6)
1. (Vit) Vn i loi ng - Q.5 - Phm vt cu. Tr.19. Nguyn vn:
2. (Trung) Nam s - Q.78 - Lit truyn lc thp bt - Di mch thng - Lm p quc. Nguyn vn :
[]
3. (Vit) Vn i loi ng - Q.5 - Phm vt cu. Tr.19. Nguyn vn:
4. (Trung) Cu ng th - Q.197 - Lit truyn 147 - Ty Nam man - Lm p. Nguyn vn:
5. (Vit) i Vit s lc. Nguyn vn:
 Tng s: Ngi nc Chm khng c t tm, dng vi ip trng
Ph lc 2
qun ngc, bung xung chn, mc o hp tay, tm tc thnh bi, bung
98 99
ln tha ra sau [] Vua nc y bi tc ta k sau u (ch kiu bi MT S GHI CHP V HNH NH LIN QUAN TI V NHC
mt ln tc pha sau, sau y ln nh u, dng kp c nh li, tc VIT NAM THI L TRN
tha bung ra pha sau), khoc o Ct Bi, i m sc hoa bng vng,
dng di anh lc tt bng by loi qu lm trang sc, v i u l c,
i dp da, khng x tt. Ph n cng bi tc sau u, khng ci trm,
trang phc v cch chp ly nh n ng [] Tng Hy Ninh nm th 9
(tc 1076), vua Chm 36 tui, mc o thng ln may bng gm i thc
hoc gm Xuyn php, khoc by di anh lc bng vng, i m vng
sc by loi qu, i giy da . Vua xut cung lin c nm trm ngi
theo hu, mi ph n bng trp vng ng tru cau i trc lm vui.(1)
c Trai di tp: Ngi Chim ly khn che v i, l hnh th.(2)
Doanh nhai thng lm tp: Vua Chim l ngi Ta L (Ta L vn l
vng ven bin Coromandel, n . Tuy nhin y, cch ni ngi Ta L phim ch ngi n

ni chung), chung o Pht, i m hnh tam sn nh hoa vng lung linh,

pha trn mc o vi hoa phin nh dng la th Min tru, pha di

qun khn t mu sc s my vng, i chn t ci voi hoc ngi xe
nh c hai con ngh ko. Cc quan i m l c (nguyn vn dng t giao chng
dip. Khang Hy t in cho bit: giao l loi c kh, chng l c), cng ging m ca vua,

trang sc bng vng, (pha di qun) khn sc s [] (Chim Thnh)

cho php c mc mu ta, ring vua mc trng, cm mc cc mu
en huyn, mu vng, k no lm tri th b ti cht. n ng tc ri, n
b bi tc chuy k pha sau, da d u ngm en, pha trn mc o ngn
cc tay, pha di cng qun vi sc s, u l trang phc ca n b vy
[] H nhai tru cau lun ming nh tc ca ngi Mn, Vit(3).
Mt s hnh tng v cng thi L Trn (Cha Vit Nam, iu khc c Vit Nam)
Ton th: Thng 7, nm 1044, vua (L Thi Tng) em qun vo
thnh Pht Th bt v c, v l ca S u v cc cung n gii ht ma
khc iu Ty Thin. Nm 1046, (thi L Thi Tng) dng cung ring cho cc
cung n Chim Thnh. Thng 8, nm 1060, (thi L Thi Tng) phin dch
nhc khc v iu nh trng ca Chim Thnh, sai nhc cng ca ht.
Thng 8, nm 1202, (thi vua L Cao Tng) Sai nhc cng ch khc nhc gi

1. (Trung) Tng s - Q.489 - Lit truyn 248 - Ngoi quc ng - Chim Thnh. Nguyn vn:
l nhc Chim Thnh, ting trong tro, ai on bun ru, ngi nghe phi
[] chy nc mt. Thng 10, ma ng, nm 1268, thng hong (Trn Thi
Tng) mc o bng trng, Tnh Quc ma iu ma ca ngi H, thng

[]
. hong ci o ban cho.
2. (Vit) c Trai di tp - Q.6 - D a ch. Tr.31. Nguyn vn: .
3. (Trung) K lc vng bin - Q.63 - Doanh nhai thng lm tp - Chim Thnh. Nguyn vn:
An Nam tc s: (khong 1288-1293) Tng t chc yn tic ti in Tp
Hin, trai gi ht tr mi bn mi ngi, u ngi xung t, c cc loi
[]
[] n t b, tu (thanh trc nh, c th l so?), n tranh, nht huyn (mt dy, c
.
 th l n bu?). Li ca ha vi ting n, khi ht th ngn r ron trc (c th
l li ht r ren?), sau mi ht li. Di in c cc tr din xic, leo ct, ma
100 ri u gy, li c k mc qun gm ci trn va nhy nht va h ht. n
b i chn t, mng tay mi ngn ci di ci ngn [] Hn mi ngi
n ng u ci trn, khoc vai nhn chn, i thnh vng trn ht mt hi
lu. mi hng c mt ngi gi tay th hn mi ngi khc u gi tay,
khi bung tay cng th. Ca khc th c cc bi Trang Chu mng ip, Bch
Lc thin mu bit t, Vi sinh ngc tiu, p ca, ho ca. Ring bi Thn th
thi th thit nht, song nghe khng th hiu c. Khi tu i nhc trn
in trong bui i yn th dn nhc c tu sau hnh lang, khng nhn
thy nhc c v nhc cng. Mi khi chuc ru th ln ting h tu khc
nhc no , ngi di hnh lang lin ng ting tu ln. Cc khc nhc
c khc Ging hong long, Nhp hong , Yn Dao tr, Nht giang phong,
m iu rt c, nhng ngn gt(1).

Tng v cng thi L trn b cha Hoa Long, x Vnh Thnh, huyn Vnh Lc,
Thanh Ha (nh: TQ).

1. (Trung) Nguyn thi k s - An Nam tc s. Tr.180. Nguyn vn:

[]




 101

Chng II. TRANG PHC THI TRN

Nm 1225, Trn Th p nh L chuyn giao quyn lm ch x

tc sang tay h Trn thng qua cuc hn phi gia L Chiu Hong v
Trn Cnh. Hn 50 nm sau phng Bc, triu nh nh Tng b qun
Nguyn Mng tiu dit, quyn lm ch Trung Hoa ri vo tay tc
ngi c coi l ngoi di. Ngay t khi thnh lp, vi dc vng bnh
trng lnh th, quc Nguyn Mng lm le b ci ca cc nc ln
bang, nhiu ln s dng th on vi triu nh i Vit. Song iu ny
ch khin chnh sch ngoi giao ca nh Trn i vi nh Nguyn thm
cng rn v nhiu khi t ra bt hp tc.
n c vic cng voi, trong khi
nh L ch ng cng cho nh Tng
9 con voi thun vo nm 1156(1),
sau cng 5 voi thun vi 5 qun
tng i theo, ri 10 voi c ng
ln vi 10 qun tng i theo trong
hai t cng lin tip nm 1173(2),
th nm 1269, mc cho s thn Ht
Voi ch kinh sch ca vua Trn Nhn Tng. Lung Hi Nha truyn t ca vua
(Trc Lm i s xut sn . Cc b). Nguyn mun tm my con voi ln,
vua Trn Thi Tng vn thoi thc ni: Loi th ny thn mnh rt ln,
i li chm chp, khng bng nga ca thng quc.(3) Nm 1270, vua

1. (Trung) Tng hi yu tp co - Phin di nht - Giao Ch. Mc ngy 21 thng 8 nm 26 nin hiu Thiu
Hng (1156). Nguyn vn:
[]
2. (Trung) Tng hi yu tp co - Phin di nht - Giao Ch. Mc ngy 4 thng 7 nm th 9 nin hiu Cn o
(1173). Nguyn vn: []; []
3. (Trung) Nguyn s. Q.209. An Nam truyn. Nguyn vn:
 Nguyn xung lnh i voi v yu cu triu cng hng nm, vua Trn p ny, trong qu trnh nc Tng i
Thnh Tng gi th sang gii thch: V li d tm voi, trc s tri n dit vong, v s binh tng, quan
102 103
ch, nn loanh quanh cha dm ni thng. Thc ra, duyn do l v qun dn ngi Tng u ln lt sang xin
tng khng n xa nh, kh sai h khi hnh.(1) V phi 7 nm sau, nm quy ph i Vit (iu ny lp li cui thi

1278, sau khi nh Tng hon ton b tiu dit, nh Trn mi ln u Minh) . Xut pht t tm l ght Nguyn
(1)

cng cho nh Nguyn 2 con voi(2).
S xut hin ca qun Nguyn
Mng ti Trung Quc v hnh trung
thc y mi quan h Vit - Tng
thm hu ho. Sau khi qun Nguyn
xm chim v s t ai ca nh
Tng, vua ti nh Tng b buc phi
Quai vng bng ng thi Trn.
di xung Giang Nam b gi trong
(Bo tng Lch s Vit Nam).
phn t cht hp, khin giao thng
mn Tng, trong vic pht trin vn ha
i Vit sau khi kt thc chin tranh,
vua quan nh Trn va k tha, pht
huy in chng vn hin vn c ca
nh L, va tip tc p dng mt phn
quy ch ca nh Tng, kin quyt bi
xch ch ca nh Nguyn. 1. Vua Nguyn Anh Tng; 2. Vua
Nguyn Th T; 3. Hong hu ca vua
thc c s bt ng v vn ha, Nguyn Thun Tng; 4. Hong hu ca
phong tc, trong li d vua ti i Vit vua Nguyn Th T. (C cung).

Bc Nam tr nn ch tc. Nm 1242, vua Trn Thi Tng sai tng sang
nh chim bin gii thng hiu vi nc Tng. Trc ngha c ny,
(3)
nm 1243 vua Tng xung chiu, c bit gia tng vua Trn l Th
ngha cng thn (Cng thn gi ngha)(4). Tip nm 1257, nh Nguyn
ly c Vn Nam, nhng mt nm sau, nh Trn li tip tc sai s sang
thng hiu vi Tng . n khi nh Nguyn chnh thc lp quc vo
(5)
nm 1271, t kinh ti Yn Kinh, th nm 1273, nh Trn vn tip tc
sai s sang Tng biu tng phng vt . Thm ch, n nm 1276, vua
(6)
Nguyn Th T Ht Tt Lit nh Giang Nam, sai Hp Tn Nhi Hi Nha
sang i Vit d su vic nh iu dn, gip qun nh Tng, nhng
vua Trn Thnh Tng u khng nghe . D rng, mt trong nhng l
(7)
do ca vic thng xuyn thng hiu l nhm thm d tnh hnh qun
Nguyn v t chng Nguyn ca nh Tng, song mi quan h Vit -
Tng du ni th no, t trong bi cnh ng thi vn c th coi l
mi quan h ha hiu v tin l. Chnh v bn duyn t mi quan h tt
vo thng 12 nm 1260, vua Nguyn chp nhn: Quan li dn chng,
phm o m, in chng, l nghi, phong tc c tun theo ch trc
kia ca nc mnh.(2) Tuy nhin, du vua Nguyn ni ngon ngt, Hng
o Vng vn thng thng gi ng ta l Di t (t trng di r) v t r ch
phn khng n cng trc s e da ca qun Mng Tht; vua Trn
Minh Tng, sau khi nghe s gi bo tin vua Nguyn Anh Tng ln ngi,
vit bi th c chc mng rng: Chu T Minh tip gip vi bin gii
nc Vit, cch nhau chng bao xa. Ngn ng khng khc nhau nhiu (ch
ngn ng Hn dng trong quan phng), nhng ch o m khng ging nhau
c [] nh khng phn bit Hoa Di, (mong rng) u cng nhau bc
ln ci th.(3) Thi bi xch y phc nh Nguyn cn c Phm S
Mnh th hin qua bi th xng ha vi s thn nh Minh l D Qu:
Triu nh mi (nh Minh) thay i ht phong tc ca ngi H (ngi
Nguyn), o m l nhc li tr v vi quy ch nh Hn.(4) L T Tn, quan
vn th thi L s bn lun: T sau khi ngi Nguyn vo Trung Quc,

1. (Trung) Nguyn s. Q.209. An Nam truyn. Nguyn vn:

1. Nh nm 1263, quan ph T Minh nc Tng l Honh Bnh em 1200 b thuc xin quy ph (Ton th.
2. Phm Vn nh. Vn th ngoi giao thi Trn - Ni dung v Ngh thut. Trong Thng bo Hn Nm hc Tp 2. Tr.33); nm 1274, 30 thuyn tr ngi Tng ko sang xin quy ph (Ton th. Tp 2. Tr.39); nm 1279,
2009. Tr.99-127. khi nh Tng mt hn, nhiu binh s ngi Tng sang xin quy ph, c Trn Nht Dut thu np, sau ny h
3. (Vit) Ton th. Tp 2. Tr.19. cng c nhng ng gp khng nh trong vic nh bi gic Tc Ta (Ton th. Tp 2. Tr.55)
4. (Trung) Tng s - Bn k - Q.46 - Tng - Mc thng 2, nm u tin nin hiu Hm Thun. 2. (Trung) Nguyn s - Q.209 - An Nam. Nguyn vn: ,
5. (Vit) Ton th. Tp 2. Tr.28-29. 3. Th vn L Trn. Tp 2. Tr.740. Nguyn vn:
6. (Trung) Tng s - Bn k - Q.46 - Tng - Mc thng 3, nm th 9 nin hiu Hm Thun.
7. (Vit) Ton th. Tp 2. Tr.40. 4. Th vn L Trn. Tp 3. Tr.124. Nguyn vn:
 thin h i ra ni ting H, th no, s nh hng ca vn ha cung nh nh Tng ti i Vit thi
mc o H c. Khng thay Trn suy yu i nhiu so vi nh hng vo thi Tin L v thi L,
104 105
i th ch c nc ta cng khi nh Tng thnh tr.
h Chu Kim Lng, h Triu Vo thi Trn, ho kh ng A tro dng si sc. Lc ny sau nhng
Kim Sn m thi. n khi ci cch y phc thi vua Anh Tng, trang phc ca triu nh i Vit
Thi t nh Minh ln ngi, nhn chung c nhng nt c sc ring, khng cn nht nht noi theo
sai Dch T Dn sang thng quy ch quan phc ca nh Tng nh trc kia. C iu t thi vua
hiu, vua D Tng sai Don D Tng tr v sau, triu nh bt u c nhng du hiu ri ren, lc
o Bin Tuyn (Bo tng Ni Mng Trung Quc). Thun Thn sang thm nh c. Xt ring phng din vn ha, ngay t nhng nm i Tr, in
Tng v cng thi Nguyn (Bo tng H Nam
Trung Quc). Bin Tuyn l kiu o giao lnh, hp Minh. Vua Minh y lo hi chng ch ca nh Trn c thay i i li, gy ra lm chuyn
tay, cht eo, di qu gi, thnh hnh vo thi Nguyn. quc s, khen phong tc v y phin nhiu(1). c bit, trong thi gian ny, ch nh Trn m
phc vn l vn minh Trung phng ch ca nh Tng qu mc, khin vua Ngh Tng ngay sau khi
Ton th: Nm 1300, sau khi cuc khng chin
chng Nguyn Mng ln th 3 kt thc, vua Trn
Hoa, ban cho bi th ng ln ngi bc bi ph nh sch trn nh hng ca Tng ch ti cc
Anh Tng ra lnh cho b quan vn v khng c ch rng: t An Nam c h triu i trc y. ng ni: Tin
dng loi o c ng tay nh hn 8 tc (khong
di 30cm), phi s dng loi o tay thng, rng Trn, phong tc khng theo triu m nc, t c php , khng
t 9 tc n 1 thc 2 (khong t 36cm n 48cm). ngi Nguyn, o m theo tun theo ch nh Tng, chng
ch nh Chu, l nhc Nam Bc t lm nc y, khng
nh vua ti nh Tng. Ri tng cho bn ch Vn hin chi bang. (1) bt chc nhau. Nhng nm i
Nh vy c th thy, ch o m i Vit di thi vua Trn D Tr, bn hc tr mt trng hnh s,
Tng mang m sc thi ca l li Trung Hoa c i m vua Minh phim khng hiu thu c t t nh ca
ch ch ca nh Chu, nh Tng. Theo Ton th, vo nhng nm i vic lp php, bn em php c ca
Tr (1358-1369), php , y phc, nhc chng ca triu nh i Vit t tng hng ht theo tc phng
lin tip c sa i m kt qu ca nhng cuc sa i ny khin Bc. Nhng th b trn t ra nh y
php c ca t tng hng ht theo tc phng Bc (ch tc nh Tng). phc, nhc chng khng th k ht
Nhng trn thc t, trc nhng nm i Tr, nh Trn nhiu ln c(2), ng thi ra lnh phi tr
p dng Tng ch nh nm 1237, phng Tng t chc l iu Khut b t chnh, phm mi vic u tun
Nguyn v cc bc hin nhn thi c nh Gii T Thi vo dp Tt oan ht theo iu l thi Khai Thi (1324-
Ng, hng nm c n thng ny th t chc (l iu)(2); nm 1250 vua 1329), cng tc l quy ch thi vua Tng Hng o Vng (khong th k
XVII) th ti miu Tin Cng, x Lin
Trn Thi Tng li xung chiu cho thin h gi vua l Quan gia, vn l Minh Tng. Hc tr mt trng b Hoa, huyn Yn Hng, Qung Ninh. (nh:
cch gi hong thnh hnh vo thi Tng (3)
v.v. Tuy nhin du ni ch trch y chnh l triu thn L Nguyn Th Dung).

B Qut, Phm S Mnh, nhng mn sinh u t ca i Nho thn Chu

1. (Vit) c Trai di tp - Q.6 - D a ch. Tr.30. Nguyn vn:

Gia d Tng i ch l tnh nh v: D Tng Thi t triu vi l, Tp ch Vn S Trit, k 5 - 2006, Tr.75-81.
1. (Vit) Cng mc. Nguyn vn: , .
2. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: 2. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:

3. (Vit) Ton th. Tp 2. Tr.22. V cch gi vua nh Tng l Quan gia, tham kho Vng Dc T, Quan
 Vn An m ngay t thi vua Minh Tng mun sa sang ch , nhng Triu phc ca hong theo quy ch ca
phi i n thi vua D Tng mi thc hin c tng ny. nh Tng l loi trang phc s dng trong cc
106 107
Kt hp gia ghi chp ca Ton th, vn bia L Trn v An Nam ch dp: T t v trai gii, ngy triu hi mng mt
lc, c th nhn nh s b rng: ch o m ca nh Trn k tha Tt Nguyn n v mng mt thng Nm, ngy
mt phn ch y phc ca nh L, tip tc tham kho quy ch trang sch mnh v khi ch thn cy rung Tch in.
phc ca nh Tng, thc hin ci cch mt s kiu o m cho vng hu B Triu phc ny bao gm m Quyn Vn kt
b quan v hu nh khng chu nh hng no t ch y phc ca nh hp vi Ging sa bo, tc o bo lm bng the ,
Nguyn. phng tm khc lnh bng la trng, i i, t
tt v thng mu . B trang phc Quyn Vn
I. TRANG PHC HONG ca vua i Vit khng c L Tc miu t c
Theo ghi nhn ca L Tc, vua nh Trn c tt c bn loi m, theo th, tng t trng hp m Ph Dung.
th t cp ln lt l m Bnh Thin, m Quyn Vn, m Ph Dung 2. Thng phc Ph Dung
v m ng Cn. ng cng ng thi cho bit, trang phc Cn Min Sch Thi Bnh ng lm thi Tng cho bit:
ca vua quan nh Trn c s dng trong cc dp i l, cn ng Chn nhn ni ng Bch l Vng T Kiu,
Cn l m vua i vo ngy thng khi khng phi thit triu, cng tc tui rt tr, oan chnh v cng, i m Ph
l Tin phc. Dung, mc o . V Mu n nh ca Thang
Quy ch quan phc ca nh Tng quy nh, ngoi trang phc mc Hin T thi Minh c on vit: o c gi ni Chn dung Tng Tuyn
T (Bo tng C cung i
khi duyt binh v mc vo ngy thng, vua Tng c ba loi m chnh: rng: M Ph Dung, tc ngn kh ci trm. (1) Bc); Ging Sa bo kt hp
L phc m Min, Triu phc m Thng Thin v Thng phc m Sch Tam ti hi thi Minh chp: M Ph vi Phng tm khc lnh,
i i, T tt, thng, giy
Phc u . Vo thi Tng, m Thng Thin ca hong cn c tn
(1)
Dung l loi m tr, xung quanh khng c thn Tch en.
gi l m Quyn Vn. Nh vy, nhiu kh nng m Quyn Vn v m rim bng vi. Song cng c hai ba loi, c loi
Ph Dung ca vua nh Trn ln lt l hai loi m c s dng phn tn T L, Nht Trn ng. M ny c gi l Ph Dung, bi hnh dng
bit trong cc bui i triu v Thng triu. tng t (hoa sen).(2)
1. Triu phc Quyn Vn Nh vy, m Ph Dung,
M Quyn Vn l tn gi khc ca m Thng Thin . Ng T loi m th ba ca vua nh
Mc thi Tng cho bit: M Thng Thin ca vua Tng u dng ht Trn theo ghi nhn ca L Tc,
Bc chu un kt li, cn gi l m Quyn Vn. Mnh Nguyn Lo thi thng c bit n l mt
Tng cng m t: Hong i m Thng Thin, cn gi l m Quyn dng m ca o gio. Loi
Vn, mc o bo , cm ngc khu. Chnh v dng m Thng Thin m ny hin nay ti Trung
cao, chp m un cong ng v pha sau, trng nh ng my cun li nn Quc vn c cc php s
c gi vi ci tn hnh tng l m Quyn Vn . (2)
chp s s dng trong cc
M Quyn Vn Thng Thin trong cc bc ha thi kha l hoc din php(3).
Tng (Bo tng C cung Bc Kinh).
1. (Trung) Tng s - Ch 104 - D phc tam. Nguyn vn:
1. Dn theo Trung Quc phc sc i t in. Tr.60.
Vua Tng c su loi trang phc, bao gm: o i Cu m Min; o Cn m Min; m Thng Thin - Ging 2. (Trung) Tam ti hi - Y phc - Q.1. Nguyn vn:
sa bo; L bo; Sam bo, Trch bo. Cc loi L bo, Sam bo, Trch bo u kt hp vi m Phc u.
2. Dn theo Trung Quc phc sc i t in. Tr.45. 3. o gio phc sc gin gii (http://www.qztao.org/taoism-3.html)
 Vo thi Trn, Nho gio, o gio, Pht gio u c triu nh
i Vit coi trng, to nn cc din tam gio ng tn. Phn ln cc hc
109
gi u nht tr cho rng, di vng triu L - Trn, o Pht chim
u th hn c, song trn thc t, vng triu Trn tng rt hm m
o gio(1). Xt ring cch n mc, qua mt s miu t ca s thn nh
Nguyn, ta thy cc v vua nh Trn thng xut hin vi dng dp ca
mt v chn nhn hoc mt v thn tin thot tc. T nh la bc tc
mu trng ca vua Trn Nhn Tng c s thn Trn Cng Trung
miu t trng xa nh Lun cn ca o s(2). Vua Trn Minh Tng mc
o giao lnh mu vng, i m, tht dy thao d yn tic c s gi nh
Nguyn khen thanh thot ta nh thn tin, n khi v nc c ni mi
v phong thi thanh t ca vua(3). Ngoi ra, Ton th cn cho bit Trn
o Xng Hc ca o s Trung Quc (taoism.com).
Nht Dut tng mc o Xng Hc, i m nh o s lm ba php,
trn cho vua Trn Minh Tng khi m(4) v.v.
Quay tr li Thng phc ca vua nh Trn,
ngoi L Tc cp ti m Ph Dung trong An
Nam ch lc, khong nm 1329 thi vua Trn
Hin Tng, L T Xuyn vit Vit in u linh tp
cng nhc n loi m ny qua cu chuyn v hai
B Trng vi tiu Trng Thnh Vng. ng
k rng, hai b sau khi mt ha thnh tin, mt ln
vua L Anh Tng nm m, thy hai ngi con gi
i m Ph Dung, mc o mu lc, tht ai, ci
nga st, ui gi vn my bay qua trc mt(5).
Vic hai B Trng i m Ph Dung hn ch M Ph Dung (Tam ti
hi); M Ph Dung bng
l sn phm tng tng ca L T Xuyn, song ngc thi Tng (Bo tng
i chiu vi An Nam ch lc, chng ti nhn Nam Kinh).

thy trong li k ca ng t nht c mt chi tit st vi thc t, l vo

thi Trn m Ph Dung l mt trong nhng loi m ca vng. Mt
khc, c th thy hnh tng hai B Trng xut hin nh hai v tin n,
Thi Thng Lo Qun v Nguyn Thy Thin Tn, hai trong ba v Tam Thanh ca o Gio,
cng cc v tin theo hu u i m Ph Dung. (o Gio chng thn thnh tng).
1. V Phng Lan. Vng triu Trn v Tam gio. Tp ch Nghin cu tn gio. S 4. 2006. Tr.35, 40.
2. (Trung) S Giao thi tp. Nguyn vn: ,
3. (Vit) Ton th. Nm 1314. Nguyn vn:

4. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
5. (Vit) Vit in u linh tp - Lch i nhn qun - Trng Thnh Vng. Nguyn vn:

 m trang phc ca hai b cng mang dng dp quan li binh lnh trong tranh cng mang nhng nt c trng ca thi
ca o gia. Cc vn bn Lnh Nam chch qui L Trung Hng, cho nn kiu m ng Cn trong bc tranh ch mang
110 111
sau ny cng chp li ni dung tng t, song tnh cht tham kho, khng th c coi l c liu phc dng kiu m
b trang phc kt hp vi loi m ny c i thi Trn. Bn cnh , vo thi Nguyn, ng Cn c quy nh l
ch khc bit. C th: m Thng phc ca hong v l m Triu phc ca hong thi t,
- Vit in u linh tp, KH: A.1919 chp: song kiu dng hon ton thot ly khi loi m cng tn thi ng
(o mu lc, tht ai). Tng Minh. C iu, i vi loi m ng Cn c vua nh Trn
- Lnh Nam chch qui, KH: VHv.1473 i vo ngy thng, chng ti cho rng, y vn l loi m Tin phc
chp: (o bo mu lc, tht ai). c kiu dng tng t loi m ng Cn thi ng - Tng, khng c
- Lnh Nam chch qui, KH: A.33 chp: s bin cch ln nh loi m cng tn thi Nguyn.
(o mu lc, ai mu son).
- M Ln dt s, KH: A.1516 chp:
(o mu lc, thng mu son).
Tuy nhin, L Tc li cho bit vo
thi Trn, i vi trang phc ca vng,
Thng phc coi mu trng l cao qu, ngi
trong nc m mc mu trng th b coi l tim
ch, ring ph n khng cm(1). Nh vy, trang
Vua Trn Anh Tng trong
phc Thng triu ca vua nh Trn phn
Trc Lm i s xut sn .
nhiu l o bo mu trng. Mu trng cng l
phc sc a chung ca vua Chim Thnh.
3. Tin phc
Chu Kh Phi miu t vua L ngy thng bi tc ci trm vng,
mc o Sam vng, thng mu ta. Trn Cng Trung miu t vua Trn
Vua ng Thi Tng (tri) v vua ng Cao Tng (phi) (C Cung tng tuyn
ring bi tc ca vua bc li bng la trng, trng xa nh Lun cn ca ty). Vua L Nam ( gia) (Tranh sn mi th k XVIII, Bo tng Thi Bnh).
o s. L Tc cn cho bit Vua ngy thng i m ng Cn.(2)
ng Cn vn l loi m vua ng i vo ngy thng, c Nh trn cp, Ton th m t trang phc d tic ca vua Trn
lm bng the en, tng t kiu dng m Phc u thi ng, ring Minh Tng cho bit vua mc o giao lnh mu vng bng l, i m,
hai cnh chun c ct lm bng ct my, bung ra sau, choi sang hai tht dy thao(1). Cng trong dp ny, s thn nh Nguyn lm bi th
bn thnh hnh ch Bt (3). Bc tranh sn mi th hin hnh tng vua tn tng v p ca vua Trn Minh Tng, miu t ngi ung dung trong
L Nam khc ha ng i kiu m ny. Tuy nhin, v bc tranh
l sn phm ca tr tng tng dn gian thi Hu L, trang phc ca 1. (Vit) Ton th. Nm 1314. Nguyn vn: . y cn ni thm,
cm (ng cn thao) trong cc bn dch hin nay, c dch l i m c thao. Kt cu Cn - Thao
l kt cu ng lp, khng phi kt cu chnh ph, cho nn cch hiu v dch nh vy khng chnh xc. Tuy
1.(Trung) An Nam ch lc - Chng phc. Nguyn vn: nhin cch dch ny tip tc nh hng ti bn dch L triu hi in (2009), t thao () nht lot c dch
2. (Trung) An Nam ch lc - Chng phc. Nguyn vn: Cc bn dch ting Vit u dch thnh i m dy thao (Tr.193, 196). y, ng cn thao nn hiu l i m, tht thao. T ng c
l nh i khn tu, cch hiu v dch nh vy khng chnh xc. dng phim ch vic vua lm. Nm 1437, hong nh L mc Hong bo, i m Xung Thin, nguyn
3. Trung Quc y quan phc sc i t in. Tr.109 vn Ton th cng vit: Hong ng Hong bo, Xung Thin quan. ()
 b o m vi di ngc bi c vng, to nh dy tha khc bit.
v di thn . Thn cng tc
(1)
Thn vng mc o bo ta dt
112 113
l i i, l di ai tht lng, vng, tc hu v tc minh t
c lm bng la, hai ui mc o bo thu hnh phng c,
ai di bung thng, c th t i liu ban tr xung mc Cn
thy ph iu Ng gia th bi Min ty theo cp bc. Ban vn
thi Trn. Dy thao c Ton eo thm Kim Ng i. Vin ngoi
th nhc n cng c dng lang, lang tng i m Min c
tht lng, chng ta cn c cc vin vng bc an xen; t lnh
th thy tng quan hu thi th x ti hiu th lang thng
Trn ti lng Trn Hin Tng. ch th cm u i m Min bc.
Thao l loi phc sc ph bin M Min dng trong cc dp i l Phn Chng Phc (Quyn 14) trong sch An
Nam ch lc. (Khm nh T kh Ton th -
Trung Quc v Triu Tin. [] Ni quan, thng phm i Vn Uyn cc).
Ti Vit Nam, dy thao tht m Dng ng, nh hnh ong
lng c s dng ph bin bm bng vng, dy tha khc bit. V trang phc, trung phm mu
o giao lnh vng kt hp vi ng Cn, thao v vo thi L v cn c s sc o m gim xung mt cht, h phm i m Dng ng khng
i i (Phc dng. Tranh: TQ); Tng quan hu
triu Trn ti lng vua Trn Hin Tng tht dy thao. dng n u thi Nguyn. trang sc, o bo ta, u chp tay ly, khng c ht.(1)
(ng Triu, Qung Ninh. nh: TQ); Nho s Triu Qua ghi chp trn c th thy L phc ca b quan nh Trn gm
Tin tht thao v i i; Nho s thi Minh, tht
thao v i i (mingyiguan). II. TRANG PHC B QUAN ba loi: trang phc Cng Thn dnh cho cc tc vng, hu, minh t;
Phn tch nhng ghi chp trang phc Cn Min dnh cho cc quan tc t i liu ban xung ti
trong phn Chng phc ca An Nam ch lc, c th thy i tng v hiu th lang thng ch th cm; trang phc Dng ng dnh cho
dng trang phc chnh c L Tc m t bao gm: L phc v Thng cc quan trong ngch Tng quan (Ni quan).
phc ca vua, L phc v Thng phc ca vng hu cng cc quan a. Cng Thn
vn v, L phc v Thng phc ca Tng quan (cn gi l Ni quan, tc Theo An Nam ch lc, quy ch L phc dnh cho vng, hu, minh
ngch quan hu). Ti phn ny, chng ti kho trang phc b quan nh t thi Trn(2) c quy nh:
Trn tnh t thi im nm 1254, sau khi vua Trn Thi Tng nh ra quy
ch y phc cho b quan, ti trc thi im nm 1396, nh du bng Tc trt S bc trn m Loi o bo
Cng Thn
ci cch y phc thi Trn Thun Tng. Ton b ci cch y phc nm
1396, chng ti s di sang phn ph kho v trang phc nh H phn Vng Ba bc Mu ta dt vng (Tiu kim t phc)

cui chng ny.

1. L phc
Vo dp i l, trang phc ca b quan nh Trn c quy nh:
M ca tc vng ba bc, m ca tc hu hai bc, m tc minh
t mt bc, tn l m Cng Thn, pha trn nh hnh ong bm bng
1. (Trung) An Nam ch lc - Q.17 - Tng Th t Thi H T. Nguyn vn:
1. (Trung) An Nam ch lc - Chng phc. Ti phn ny, nhng c liu chp trong An Nam ch lc c
vin dn, chng ti s khng ch km nguyn vn, ton b nguyn vn s c ch r ti phn ph lc.
2. Mt trong nhng quy nh v tc vng, hu, minh t c Ton th cho bit: Thng 3 nm 1267, nh
Trn nh ngc dip phi chnh dng h vua ca vng hu, cng cha phong m, gi l kim chi ngc
dip. Chu 3 i c phong tc hu hay qun vng, chu 4 i c ban tc minh t, chu 5 i c
ban tc thng phm. Tc phong theo Ng phc . Nguyn vn:
 Hu Hai bc
114 Minh t Mt bc
Xt tn gi m Cng Thn,
Ton th chp l vi ngha bao
bc, bo v sao Bc u, vn ly in
t Lun ng, sau c dng v vi
vic bn phng quy ph , An Nam (1)
ch lc chp , vn l tn mt
trong nm cm qun thi ng -
Ng i(2). So snh hai ngha ny,
chng ti cho rng t dng chp
trong Ton th hp l hn.
M Cng Thn l loi m Triu
phc dnh ring cho cc v vng
cng, thi s, thi bo ca nh Trn,
nhng trn thc t c t nh
t thi L. Ton th cho bit nm
1206, vua L Cao Tng thng m D
Mng lm Thi bo, cho php i m
Cng Thn. Loi m ny da vo s bc v s trang sc ong bm trn
m phn bit chc tc phm trt ca cc vng hu, chng t
chu s nh hng t quy ch m Lng Quan.
Ngoi ra, bia cha Thiu Long dng nm 1226 m t L phc ca
Tit cp nhp ni thi t Nng T thi Trn cho bit: Sc ln m
Thu hnh Phng c (Phng ng t phc)
ngoi trang sc ong bm, c th cn
c mt trang sc dng trn nh
Thu hnh Phng c (Phng ng t phc) 115
trn m.
b. Cn Min
Theo An Nam ch lc, cc quan
t i liu ban tr xung mc Cn
Min ty theo cp bc. Ban vn eo
Hoa vn chim phng cun trn thi L
thm Kim Ng i. Vin ngoi lang,
khai qut ti Hong thnh Thng Long.
lang tng i m Min c vin vng
bc an xen; lnh th x ti hiu th lang thng ch th cm u i m
Min bc. M Min dng trong cc dp i l.
Chc tc Quy ch m Min
T i liu ban tr xung mc Cn Min ty theo cp bc.
Ban vn eo thm Kim Ng i.
Vn Ni i liu ban, i liu ban, ?
i liu
Thn vng ban ?
Ni k ban, k ban ?
M Cng Thn ba bc, hai bc v mt
bc. (Phc dng. Tranh: TQ).
V Ni ch v, ch v ?
Vn Ni vin ngoi lang, vin M Min c vin vng bc an xen
ngoi lang (Kim ngn gin o Min)
V Ni lang tng, lang tng M Min c vin vng bc an xen
(Kim ngn gin o Min)

cao c vng trng ci trn tra, khoc ln mnh phc (tc L phc) c chim Vn Ni lnh th x, lnh th x M Min bc (Ngn Min)
phng xoay trn rc r. Hnh nh chim phng xoay trn c nhc
(3)
V Ni thng ban, thng ban M Min bc (Ngn Min)
n trong bia chc hn l hoa vn phng thu trn tm o Phng
ng t phc ca tc hu, minh t thi Trn. V trn m Cng Thn, V Ni thng ch, thng ch M Min bc (Ngn Min)
V Ni cung phng, cung phng M Min bc (Ngn Min)

1. C i Hn ng t in. Tr.475. Lun ng - Vi chnh - nh. Nguyn vn: V Ni th cm, th cm M Min bc (Ngn Min)
() Dng c lm chnh tr th v nh sao Bc Thn (tc Bc u) c mun
sao m bc.
Vn Hiu th lang quyn min M Min bc (Ngn Min)
2. (Trung) Cu Ng i s - ng th. Nguyn vn: Nh
cung hu th x
Lng c cc qun nh Long Nhng, Thn Uy, Cng Thn, u l binh s v dng vy. Dn theo Zdic.
net (Hn in).
3. Vn khc Hn Nm Vit Nam. Tp 2. Tr.10. Nguyn vn:
 i chiu quy ch m Min vi quan ch nh Trn (bng biu Dng ng, h Nguyn, hy m, hiu l
trn), c th thy quy ch m Min dnh ring cho cc tc t i liu Hng Phc c s.(1)
116 117
ban xung ti ch v khng r rng. Sp theo th bc, cc tc t i Xt v danh xng, cc d bn An Nam ch
liu ban ti ch v cn ng trn vin ngoi lang, trong khi vin lc nh Lc bn, Ni bn, Tnh bn, Anh bn
ngoi lang, lang tng i m Min c vin vng bc an xen, lnh nht lot chp l Dng Thng. Bn Vn
th x, hiu th lang i m Min vin bc th phi chng m Min Uyn cc chp l Dng ng, khp vi
ca cc quan i liu ban, thn vng ban, k ban, ch v l m Min t dng trn chung cha Din Thnh Bo n
vin vng? thi Trn. Cc sch Ton th, Loi ch, Cng
Mt khc, Vit in u linh bn bn chp tay A.1919 cho bit ngi mc u nht lot chp l Dng ng
bin tp sch ny l Th i Tng kinh Trung phm Phng ng L T (ch Dng y c b Mc khc vi b Th
Xuyn, ng thi cho bit ngi chp sch ng thi l Mn h tnh s bn Vn Uyn cc). Chng ti cho rng cch
Ni lnh s th t Kim Min Mt n(1). Vo thi L Trn, nhiu khi tn o c Dng ng l chun xc.
m c vit km theo tn chc quan lm r thm chc phn. y, Xt v ni hm ca khi nim Dng
Ni lnh s l chc quan dnh cho ngi thi k thi Li vin vi hai ni ng, Ton th ghi rng, nm 1401, nh H
dung vit ch v lm tnh. Chiu theo quy ch ca An Nam ch lc, Mt quy nh tt c n l phi c ghi du ln trn.
n ch c i Ngn Min (Min bc), Vit in N l ca cc quan tr hnh qu cu la, n l ca
M th trong n S Nhip
u linh chp l Kim Min (m Min vng) liu c (Bc Ninh) (nh: TQ). cng cha tr hnh Dng ng.(2) Nm 1499,
s lm ln no chng? vua L Hin Tng quy nh, cc tc cng, hu,
Ngoi ra, cn c theo nhn xt ca L Tc b, ph m v quan vn v tam phm tr ln mc Cng phc m Phc
v s tng ng gia Cn Min ca nh Trn u [] khng c dng trang sc Dng ng.(3) Nh vy khi nim
v Trung Quc th chng t quy nh v cht Dng ng t thi H ti thi L u ch mt dng hoa vn trang sc.
liu ngc, s dy lu dnh cho b quan v i Nm 1661 thi vua L Thn Tng,
th ging nh quy ch ca ng - Tng. Triu phc ca hong t, vng t c
c. Dng ng phong tc quc cng c quy nh l
An Nam ch lc cho bit: Ni quan, m Dng ng v o bo mu ta(4).
thng phm i m Dng ng, nh hnh Loi m ny c Phan Huy Ch miu
ong bm bng vng, dy tha khc bit. V t: Kiu dng nh m Phc u, duy
trang phc, trung phm mu sc o m gim pha sau cao hn, hai cnh chun nm Mnh thi Trn (Bo tng Lch
s Vit Nam. nh: TQ).
xung mt cht, h phm i m Dng ng vng.(5) Nh vy, m Dng ng
khng trang sc, o bo ta, u chp tay ly,
khng c ht. An Nam ch lc, bn Vn 1. Vn khc Hn Nm Vit Nam. Tp 2 - Thi Trn (1226- 1400) Tp thng. Tr.252. Nguyn vn:
Bia cha Din Thnh Bo n c nin i Uyn cc. Ba ch Dng
ng quan c ng
nm 1333 ghi nhn: Thng Lin Tam ha trong khung mu .
2. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: []
3. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: []
Chnh chng phng ng Trung phm i m 4. (Vit) L triu thin chnh in l. Dn theo Cng mc. Nguyn vn:

5. (Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch - B quan chng phc chi ch. Nguyn vn:
1. (Vit) Vit in u linh. Nguyn vn:
 thi L Trung Hng l m Triu phc ca hong t v vng t c Cn(1). M Thng phc ca
phong tc quc cng, cn m Dng ng thi Trn l m L phc Tng quan trc y l m Ton
118 119
ca Ni quan. Qua miu t ca L Tc, m Dng ng thi Trn c Hoa, song nm 1374, vua Trn
sc hnh ong bm bng vng tng t m Cng Thn, cng c trng Du Tng quy nh li ch
hp m Dng ng trn khng c trang sc. Cn theo miu t Tng quan, ra lnh cho 800 th
ca Phan Huy Ch, m Dng ng thi L Trung Hng c kiu dng v nhn trong ngch Tng quan
tng t m Phc u, ring hai cnh chun c nm vng v phn u i m Bn Hoa(2).
hu sn nh cao. Chiu theo nhng ghi chp ny, r rng trang sc a. Triu Thin, Bao Cn
Dng ng khng c mi lin h trc tip ti loi m Dng ng. ,
Song chng ti mnh dn t gi thit, trn loi m c kiu dng tng Thi Trn, dn chng phn
t m Phc u vi phn hu sn nh cao, hai cnh chun nm vng, nhiu ct tc ngn, hoc co
ngoi trang sc ong bm bng vng cn c mt dng hoa vn trang sc trc, cc quan trong triu c
c nh mang tn Dng ng. ngi tc di, c ngi ct tc
2. Thng phc ngn, vua l ngi duy nht bi
u tng thi Trn (tc ngn) ti lng vua Trn
Bui u thi Trn c hai ln sa i trang phc Thng triu din tc bc li bng la trng. Nm Hin Tng (M thut thi Trn);M Triu Thin
ra vo nm 1254 v nm 1300. Mt s loi m mo c t nh vo 1300, quy ch Thng phc ca (Trung ng cung quan phc; bch ha thi Tng
ti cha Khai Ha dn theo Trung Quc phc
nm 1300 v 1301, song khng c cp trong An Nam ch lc. Nh nh Trn quy nh, vng hu trang s).
vy ch Thng phc theo ghi nhn ca L Tc l trc nm 1287, tc tc di i m Triu Thin, tc
nm L Tc chy sang Trung Quc. Song quy ch L phc v Triu phc ngn i Bao Cn.
theo ghi nhn ca L Tc c l vn c p dng cc triu i sau. Bi T in Vit - B - La ca Alexandre de Rhodes gii thch: M Triu
nh m Dng ng t nht n nm 1333 vn c s dng lm m Thin: vng min, m Triu Thin: m ca vua(3). iu ny cho thy
Triu phc (theo vn bia cha Din Thnh Bo n vi nin i 1333 th v Hng Phc ti Vit Nam vo thi L, khi nim m Triu Thin cng c dng
c s h Nguyn c chc tc l Thng Lin Tam ha Chnh chng phng ng Trung ch m Xung Thin ca hong , c kiu dng m Phc u vi hai
phm i m Dng ng). cnh chun hi cong hng ln tri. Ring m Triu Thin ca Trung
Xt v tng th, Thng phc ca vng hu v b quan vn v nh Quc c nh ngha m Phc u [] hai cnh chun hi gp li
Trn thi k u vn k tha quy ch Thng phc m Phc u - bo cha ln trn, nn gi l m Triu Thin (hng ln tri).(4)
phc ca b quan nh L. Nm 1300, ch ra kiu o m mi cho quan M Triu Thin l dng m hai tng, phn hu sn pha sau l ni
v i, quan vn i m inh T mu en v Tng quan i m Ton cha bi tc, tng t m Phc u. T loi suy, m Bao Cn p
Hoa mu xanh nh quy ch c . Tuy nhin, sau khi o m Thng
(1)
dng cho vng hu tc ngn c l l loi m ch c mt tng, tng t
triu kiu mi ca quan v c ban hnh ba thng, thng Ging nm loi m th hin trn u pho tng quan triu Trn pht hin ti lng
1301, vua li xung chiu lnh cho cc quan vn v u thng nht i
m inh T. n thng 10 nm 1301, nh Trn tip tc quy nh kiu 1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
m cho vng, hu, ai tc di i m Triu Thin, ai tc ngn i Bao ,
2. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: []

3. T in Vit - B - La. Tr.153, Tr.237
1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: 4. (Trung) Trn s - Quyn thng. Dn theo Trung Quc phc sc i t in. Nguyn vn: []

 vua Trn Hin Tng. Tuy nhin, hai loi m dnh cho vng hu ny c ghi chp l in chng ch nh Trn trc nm 1287, trong thi gian
l khng ch l nhng chic m trn khng c trang sc. nh Trn va tri qua hai cuc khng chin chng qun Nguyn ln th
120 121
b. Phc u nht v th hai. Phi chng trong giai on ny, vua Trn Nhn Tng
Khong t nm 1225 n nm p dng phng thc tng thng T T Kim Ng i, c ban cho
1301, vo nhng bui Thng triu, mt b phn ln b quan c mc o bo ta, ring ban vn eo thm
b quan vn v nh Trn i m Phc Kim Ng i, nh mt c n i vi cc cng thn? Tuy nhin, cng
u, mc bo phc nh ch quan khng loi tr kh nng trong qu trnh sao chp, do ch T (trng
phc ca triu L. An Nam ch lc trn) c t dng gn ging ch T (mu ta), nn T phc (trang phc
m t s lc kiu dng ca m Cng trn, khng c hoa vn) b chp nhm thnh T phc (o mu ta).
Thn, Cn Min, song khng m t V cc ph kin i km theo b Cng phc nh ai, ht, An Nam
kiu dng m Phc u, chng t loi ch lc cho bit: ai hoc bng sng t, hoc bng vng, ty theo phm
m ny ca nh Trn v c bn tng trt. Ht ng cng nh vy. Cc chc quan v t chc i m Phc u,
t nh m ca nh L v nh Tng, o bo ta, ai sng t, khng mang ht, chp tay ly. Ghi chp cho thy
ngoi tr vic dng vng dt ln m vo thi Trn, ai ca b quan u l loi ai nh sng t hoc ai vng,
Thng th Trn nh B mc Triu phc, nh Vn hin thng kho m t. khng dng loi ai nh i mi nh triu L - Nguyn. Ht ng thi
cm ht. (nh: Bi Trung Sn). Theo ghi chp ca An Nam ch Trn nhiu khi cn c khc ln bi minh, nh nm 1298 vua Trn Anh
lc, dng nh b quan vn v nh Tng ban ht cho Trn Thi Kin, khc bi minh do vua ng ch: Thi
Ht: Thch Danh vit: Ht, vua
c li bo ban, mnh lnh hoc b Trn, ngoi tr ngch Tng quan, u Sn trinh cao/ Tng ht trinh lit/ Linh tri tin gic/ Vi ht nan chit(1).
ti c li mun tu th vit ln ht nht lot c mc o bo mu ta. L Ngoi ra, s thn Trn Cng Trung khi i s i Vit cn miu t:
cho khi qun. Loi ch - L nghi
Tc ghi nhn: M Min, trong cc dp Dn u i chn t, thi thong c ngi i giy da, n in lin ci b.
ch vit: Xt trong Kinh L c ni:
Quan i phu sp n cng s, i l th s dng. L thng ch i Nhng khi ra ngoi tip n (s gi), trm ngi mc o bo, cm ht,
s quan a cho ci ht, vit ba m Phc u, o bo ta, nh Cung u ch i t m thi.(2) Trc nm 1059, vua L Thnh Tng quy
ch T i Mnh (Nh lm trn
bn phn p li mnh vua). hu, Th x ng [] Cc chc quan nh b quan phi i hia mi c vo triu; cn theo ghi nhn ca cha
Nh th khi lng qun v phi v t chc i m Phc u, o bo Marini ng Ngoi t nm 1646 - 1658, tt c cc quan, k c hong
knh cn. l t su sc ca c ta. y l iu kh hiu, mu thun t, h vo cung chu vua u phi i chn t, nu i giy dp s b coi
nhn. V sau, ht ch mang tnh
trang sc, biu th cp bc. vi chnh ghi chp ca Ton th v l c ti, ch c vua mi i hi(3). Chng t, vo thi L trc nm 1059
sc phc thi Trn: By gi Bo V v t thi Trn tr v sau n ht thi L, khi vo chu, cc quan u i
Vng c ban tc Thng v hu mc o en, Nguyn Trung Ngn s chn trn.
sut, khi ghi s sch th xp lm vo hng o ta. Vua thng ng c ti, v
li cng do lm l, khng bt ti.(1) Cng mc ch thch: Ch phc
sc ca nh Trn coi mu ta l trn ht, vic tc b hay ban cho mc 1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
. Ngha l: Thi Sn vng cao/ Ht ng cng chc/ Linh tri dng sng/
mu ta u do Thng hong quy nh.(2) Nhng iu An Nam ch lc Lm ht kh gy.
2. (Trung) Nguyn thi k s - Q.9 - S Giao thi tp. Tr.178. Nguyn vn: . Kin
vn tiu lc ca L Qu n cng chp ni dung tng t, duy chp sai ch Tin (i t) thnh ch Qu
(qu), nn bn dch ca Phm Trng im (Tr.69) dch l Dn u i chn khng, gin hoc c ngi i
1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: giy da, khi n cung in th trt giy ra. Trong lc n tip ngoi p, hng trm ngi mc o bo,
cm ht, u qu.
2. (Vit) Cng mc. Nguyn vn: . 3. Dn theo Nhng l khch trong hnh trnh khm ph Vit Nam. Tr. 61 -62.
 c. inh T Alexandre de Rhodes ch thch: M
Xt v danh xng, inh T ngha l ch inh. Ton th, Cng nhc: m thng ca lnh. Mc t
122 123
mc chp l inh T cn; Nht dng thng m chp inh T nhc li ch thch: Th m thng
mo; Hong L nht thng ch, Loi ch, V trung ty bt xut hin c thng lnh quen dng khi phi vo
hai trng hp inh T cn v inh T mo. Nh vy, c th thy khi chn cung nh.(1) Phm nh H
nim cn v mo khng phn bit, nh chnh Nht dng thng cho bit: M inh T phn lm ba
m gii thch, Cn l khn li cng l m. (1)
Bn cnh , Loi ch loi [] Loi th ba thn trn may
ch thch: inh T cn, tc gi l m Nhc . Nht dng thng (2)
b, lm bng vi Thanh Ct, l m
m cng ghi nhn: inh T cn l m Nhc , chng t m inh (3)
thng dng ca s th, nha li v binh
T cn c tn nm, gi l m Nhc. lnh(2). Nh vy, i tng s dng
m inh T vo thi L Trung Hng
phn ln l binh lnh, nha li, cng c
khi c c dn thng.
Xt v hnh dng ca m inh Trng s trong l hi n i m inh
T, Cng mc bnh lun: M inh T c di ai mu nh gy m; trng s
trong hi Ging n Ph ng i m inh
T, kiu dng rt th b, v hnh dng T c di ai mu vng nh gy m.
nh ch inh nn t tn nh vy.
Cui thi L vn c nhiu ngi i.(3) Ng Th S c chung quan im
vi cc tc gi sch Cng mc, ng nhn xt: Kiu m inh T []
Tranh sn mi vua L Nam v hong hu, th k XVIII (Cc b, Bo tng Thi Bnh). Tiu li,
kiu dng rt ti tin.(4) Theo quan im ca Phm nh H: inh Tin
qun lnh i m inh T lm t cht liu a la (gai); V quan vinh quy , th k XVIII (Bo tng Hong thot ch ra m T Phng Bnh nh, kiu dng m vung, nh
M thut Vit Nam). (nh: TQ).
bng, lm bng da, y l qun trang. i sau [] li bin dng vung
Vo thi Trn, m inh T thnh dng trn, b dng thng thnh dng cong, lm m thng dng
c s dng lm m Thng triu khi chu hu, gi l m inh T(5) ng ng thi cho bit, m inh
ca b quan vn v. n cui thi T c phn lm ba loi, trong loi m th ba thn trn may b,
L Trung Hng, Ng Th S nhn lm bng vi Thanh Ct (6). Chng ti cho rng loi m c dng cong
xt: Kiu m ch inh n nay vn trn ny chnh l loi m ca cc quan nh Trn trong miu t ca s
cn nha li, qun lnh u i,
Tng quan hu ti n S Nhip, Bc Ninh.
by gi (tc thi Trn) l m thng
(nh: TQ). ,
dng cho b quan vn v, khng 1. T in Vit - B - La . Tr.153, Tr.170.
tn nghim khin ngi ta chim ngng.(4) T in Vit - B - La ca 2. (Vit) V trung ty bt - Quyn thng - Quan l. Nguyn vn: []

3. (Vit) Cng mc. Mc thng Ging nm 1301 thi vua Trn Anh Tng. Nguyn vn:
1. (Vit) Nht dng thng m. Tr.62. .
2. (Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch B quan chng phc chi ch. Nguyn vn: Mt s d 4. (Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch - B quan chng phc chi ch. Nguyn vn: [].
bn chp ch Nhc theo li d th, trng ta ch Minh, nn bn dch ca Nxb. KHXH mi dch tc gi l 5. (Vit) V trung ty bt - Quyn thng - Quan l. Nguyn vn:
m nh Minh. Cch c v hiu nh vy khng chnh xc. []
3. (Vit) Nht dng thng m. Tr.63. Nguyn vn: 6. Cch phn chia ca Phm nh H khng hon ton chnh xc. Ti phn kho v trang phc thi L Trung
4. (Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch B quan chng phc chi ch. Nguyn vn: [] Hng, chng ti s lm r s nhm ln ca ng.
 thn Trn Cng Trung nm 1293: Sc m thp cho n dn thng triu L u i loi m c dng cong trn,
mu xanh sm, lm bng la qut sn, quy vn ra sau gy. mt s pho tng nh tng quan hu ti n S
124 125
quanh trn bng mt si st, phn trc cao Nhip (Bc Ninh) cn xut hin di vi nh gy m, bung ra sau
mt thc, un cong ra sau chm ti gy, dng lng. Chng ti cho rng, m inh T nguyn thy l loi m phng
di ai tht ngc li ra sau, chp m c mc theo hnh dng ch inh, nt ngang ca ch inh tng hnh trn m,
st, ngi c chc quyn gia thm di vi vo nt s mc tng hnh thn m cong trn hng ra pha sau. Chnh hnh
mc. (1)
Ring di vi nh vo m, Ton th dng k d ny khin loi m inh T b nho thn triu L Trung
cho bit nm 1301, m inh T dnh cho b Hng v triu Nguyn ch l th
quan vn v u nht lot c gn di tua b v ti tin.
mu ta pha bic, tn ch l T tu gin bch . (2)
d. Ton Hoa, Bn Hoa
Di vi ny, theo L Tc, c gn vo ai ,
ngang sau m Thng phc ca Ni quan nh Theo An Nam ch lc, ngch
Trn loi m thng phm i khi Thng Tng quan trong quan ch nh
triu dng vi nhung mu ta pha bic lm Trn bao gm Nhp ni Phn th
thnh su tua, nh vo ai ngang sau m. hu cai qun ngch quan Cn th,
C kh nng trong qu trnh sao chp, S Giao thng phm hu, thng phm
thi tp ca Trn Cng Trung chp nhm Ch inh nm ngang; minh t, thng phm i liu
Trng s n , Bc Ninh.
mt s ch do hnh th vn t gn ging nhau, ban, thng phm phng ng,
c th ch Hng (gy) b chp nhm thnh ch nh (chp), cu trung phm phng ng, h phm Tng quan thi Trn trong Trc Lm i s
xut sn .
chp m c mc st, ngi c chc quyn gia phng ng, th v nhn ha u
thm di vi vo mc nn c ci chnh (Ton th: ha u), th v nhn dng gi, th v nhn, phn quyn quan,
thnh gy m c mc st. Ngoi ra, Ton thi s thi y v quan, vng hu nha hnh khin quyt v ni th,
th cho bit, nm 1300, ch ra kiu o m vng hu nha qun gip.
mi cho quan v i, quan vn i m inh Ton th ng thi cho bit: thng 10 nm 1374, nh Trn nh li
T mu en v Tng quan i m Ton Hoa ngch Tng quan, t su cc Cn th Chi hu, ly vng hu lm chnh
mu xanh nh quy ch c, chng t quy ch chng, 800 ngi lm Th v nhn trong Chi hu, do phn th cai
m inh T c t nh vo trc nm qun, u i m Bn Hoa(1). Thng tin trn cho thy Tng quan c
1300, cho nn nm 1293, Trn Cng Trung cu thnh bi cc Chi hu nh, gm chung ngch Cn th quan v Ni
sang i Vit mi thy c loi m ny. quan. ng u ngch l chnh chng, ng u Chi hu l phn th,
Kt hp s liu vi cc t liu tranh phn thng, trung, h ba phm, cai qun thuc quan nh thi gim,
tng thi L Trung Hng, c th thy tuyt th v, th n v.v.
Tng cha Du, xa tc, i m
inh T. (nh: TQ). i a s hnh tng binh lnh, quan v cp Quy nh quan phc nm 1300 cho bit ton b ngch Tng quan
u i m Ton Hoa mu xanh nh quy ch trc y. Trong , m

1. (Trung) Nguyn thi k s - Q.9 - S Giao thi tp. Tr.178. Nguyn vn: []
1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
2. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
 Ton Hoa c m t c hai kim hon nh t trc nm 1301, t nm 1396 n ht thi H, li c p dng cho
hai bn . M Thng triu ca Ni quan trc
(1)
cc quan vn v Tng Tht phm. Do cc chi tit th hin trong bc
126 127
nm 1287 c L Tc ghi nhn: Loi m thng tranh c nhiu im trng khp vi thc t Vit Nam thi Trn, chng
phm i khi Thng triu dng vi nhung mu ti cho rng, cc dng o m th hin trong tranh mt phn no c
ta pha bic lm thnh su tua, nh vo ai t thc.
ngang sau m, t cao qu vy; trung phm Tuy nhin, lin h m Thng phc Ton Hoa, Bn Hoa vi m
dng tua ta; h phm dng tua en; hon lm Triu phc Dng ng ca Tng quan, c th thy cc tn Ton Hoa,
bng vng thng phm v i mi l khc bit. Bn Hoa (Ton: t tp, hp li; Bn: chu), Dng ng u c cng mt
Hai ghi chp trn cng cp n mt loi trang trng ngha. Xt theo danh xng, m Ton Hoa, Bn Hoa hn phi
sc hnh vng khuyn c nh hai bn m. c nh nhiu trang sc hoa l, song chng ta khng thy cc trang
Loi khuyn ny vn c tn l Cn hon. Vic sc ny trong Trc Lm i s xut sn . Chng ti t ra hai kh nng:
dng Cn hon nh m thnh hnh vo thi mt l, loi m th hin trong tranh l m Ton Hoa, song ha s khng
Tng, t thi Tng tr v trc khng c kiu c t cc chi tit trang sc c th trn m, ch bt ly c im ni bt,
trang sc ny. Cn hon ca nh Tng ch yu hoc cng c th danh xng ca m khng c mi lin h trc tip ti
c lm t vng, bc, ngc v st nm si bc . (2) trang sc m; hai l, loi m th hin trong tranh khng phi m Ton
Cn hon. Cn hon thi Cn hon ca nh Trn c miu t l lm bng Hoa, song vn l loi m Thng phc (cha r tn) ca ngch Tng
Nam Tng khai qut ti quan thi Trn.
vng thng ng v i mi l khc bit so vi
huyn An Ngha, Giang
Ty, Trung Quc (Tp ch Trung Quc.
Thu tng gia); Ha Lang
i vi kiu dng m Ton Hoa ca Tng
thi Bc Tng (Bo
tng C cung i Bc). quan thi Trn, chng ta khng bit g hn ngoi
m t ca Ton th v loi trang sc Cn hon
nh hai bn m. L Tc miu t m Thng triu ca Ni quan, cng
ch cp n Cn hon v di nhung su tua. Qua bc tranh Trc Lm
i s xut sn c nin i tng ng vi thi Trn, c th thy cc
quan ty tng, th v v thi gim i nghnh n Pht hong Trn Nhn
Tng hu ht i chung mt dng m. Dng m ny c trn m ta mt
na hnh lc lng, hai cnh m vung ngn, c cnh cun trn v pha
sau, c cnh cun v pha trc, c cnh dui thng, hai bn thi dng
a s nh Cn hon. Bn cnh , mt b phn th v cn i mt loi
m (khn) m gia hai cnh m nm ngang cn c nh mt ph
kin c su kha, khp vi m t ca An Nam ch lc. Cn lu rng,
m Thng phc Ton Hoa c p dng cho ton b ngch Tng quan

1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: [] M ca Tng quan nh Trn (mt trc v mt sau) th hin trong Trc Lm i s xut sn .
2. Dng Chi Thy, H an. Kho v vng bc thi Tng Nguyn Bo tng tnh Giang Ty, Tp ch
Thu tng gia, k 8, 2009.
 I NT V TRC LM I S XUT SN

Trc Lm i S xut sn Hc s Tng Khi, hai v quan vn Minh. Ni hoc qu qun ca cng cho bit: Ngi hc Pht
l ha phm c v vo cui th Hn lm vin, c vua Minh coi ng gn lin vi dng sng L, Vit sng L Trn Quang Ch cm
k XIV u th k XV, miu t s trng ng thi . Ngoi ra, dng
(1)
Nam. Ngoi ra, da vo nhng li bc v ny n gp ta xin vi
kin Pht hong Trn Nhn Tng ch trin Trc Lm i s xut bt nh km bn tri bc Trc li.(3) Chng t ng thi, Trn
tu hnh c o, ri khi ng V sn c vit bi Hn lm vin lm i s xut sn , ta bit rng Quang Ch ht sc trn trng,
Lm tr v, vua Trn Anh Tng Trung th x nhn Trn ng. nm Vnh Lc th 18 (nm 1420), v tng nhc lng cho vic qung
cng on Tng quan nh Trn V lai lch ca Trn Quang Trn Quang Ch s hu ha b bc tranh.
ti nghnh n. Trong tranh c Ch, ngi vit li bt t xng l phm ny. ng hoan h vit li V lai lch ca Trn ng
tng cng 82 nhn vt, c tng ngi hc o Pht sng L, Hn bt: [] S tch ca i s c (1362 - 1428), ngi vit by ch
s, o s v nho s th hin r t lm th ging D nh trong bi k Truyn ng lc ghi chp y , trin Trc Lm i s xut sn
tng Tam gio ng tn thi vit km sau bc Trc Lm i s ngi Giao Ch vn c th k li u bc ha, Dng S K
Trn, ng thi tot ln mt cm xut sn gi ng l ngi c. Ta nhn thy bc v ny, (1364 - 1444) thi Minh chp li
hng t ho, sng knh. T cc vt hc Pht Giao Ch Trn Quang dm thut li i li i khi chp m ch ca Trn ng cho bit,
dng ht sc quen thuc vi ngi Ch. Minh Thc lc cho bit vo vo bn tri, ng hu dng cc bc Trn ng l ngi Trng Lc,
Vit nh chic vng, hp ng ngy Mu Dn thng 11 nm 1407, tu nhn quan chim, khin cng Phc Kin, t tin l ngi huyn
tru, ng nh v.v. cho ti hnh su mi by ngi Giao Ch bn hnh ca i s khng mai mt C Thy - Quang Chu (H Nam),
tng voi ch kinh, tp tc ct tc th l Trn Tr, Trn Quang Ch, vy. (1)
D nh cho bit Ngi gii th php, c bit l th ch
ngn, i t ca ngi thi Trn Trn Sm n cng vng bc v hc Pht Giao Ch Trn Quang Ch Trin, c tuyn vo Hn lm
u ht sc sng ng, chn thc. phng vt, ban cho tin bc v cm bc Trc Lm i s xut sn vin lm Trung th x nhn vo
Mun nht vo nm 1420, qun o. Nh vy, c th bc
(2)
n cho ta xem vit li k [] nm Vnh Lc th 2 (nm 1404).
ha phm ny tr thnh vt u xc nh, Trn Quang Ch l ngi Nam Giao v li s vic nht Cc bin ngch ch ln ca triu
s hu ca Trn Quang Ch, mt ngi Vit hm m o Pht, lm thi, hoan h truyn xem, hn o nh u do ng vit, ngi t x
v th quan Vit Nam thi thuc quan ti Vit Nam vo thi thuc hnh ca i s c xng tng n xin ch ng khng ngy no
Minh. T ho xen ln cm khi, Nam Giao t lu ri . Tng Khi
(2)
khng c, nhng ng cha tng c
Trn Quang Ch vit li bt ghp 1. (Trung) Minh thc lc - Thi Tng thc lc - v chn nn(4). C th chnh Trn
vo sau tranh, k v hnh trng ca Q.268. Mc ngy Nhm T thng 2 nm Vnh Lc
Quang Ch nh Trn ng
th 22. Nguyn vn: 1. Li bt trong Trc Lm i s xut sn . Nguyn
vua Trn Nhn Tng cng nim vn:
hoan h khi c xem bc ha.
2. (Trung) Minh thc lc - Thi Tng thc lc - 3. Li bt trong Trc Lm i s xut sn . Nguyn
Sau ng tip tc mang tranh ti Q.73. Mc ngy Mu Dn thng 11 nm Vnh Lc 2. Li bt trong Trc Lm i s xut sn . Nguyn vn:
th 5. Nguyn vn:
xin li k, li bt ca Hn lm Th vn: 4. (Trung) ng l vn tp - Q.19 - Trn T Hiu m
[] ch minh. Nguyn vn:
ging D nh, Hn lm Th c
ch vo nm 1420, cng dp nh
D nh v Tng Khi, nhng v
quan vn hay ch tt trong vin
Hn lm thi Vnh Lc.
V tc gi ca Trc Lm i
s xut sn , dng lc khon cui
bc tranh cho bit, y l ha phm
do ha s Trn Gim Nh v vo
ma xun nm Ch Chnh th 23,
tc nm 1363. Cho n nay, lai lch
ca ha s Trn Gim Nh thng
ch c bit n qua dng ghi
chp ngn gn ca H Vn Ngn
(khong 1312 - 1370): Trn Gim
Nh sng Hng Chu, tinh thng
v truyn thn, l cao th s mt
ca quc triu (nh Nguyn). Con ng
l Chi in c th k nghip ng.
Qua kho st mt s t liu nin
i cui Nguyn u Minh cp
ti Trn Gim Nh, chng ti nhn
nh Trn Gim Nh l ngi huyn
Nhn Ha, sng Tin ng, c
hai huyn u thuc Hng Chu,
Trung Quc. ng tng th gio
Triu Mnh Ph v tr thnh bc
danh ha, gii v tranh truyn thn
1. (Trung) hi bo gim - Q.5. Nguyn vn:
Nguyn vn: ,,
. v i th c th xc nh c nin
ngay t nm 1319. C th im qua
mt s ghi chp nh sau:
-Dng V (1285 - 1361,
ngi Hng Chu) cho bit: Ti
hi nh ngi hu chiu nh hc s
Triu T Ngang (tc Triu Mnh Ph),
gp lc Trn Gim Nh v tranh
truyn thn mang bn phc tho
chn dung ng Triu n dng ln.
ng Triu cm bt sa cho ng y,
ng thi ni nguyn do nhng
ch cha c. (2)
-L T Hin (1287 - 1367) quan
Cao Ly cho bit: Nm K Mi nin
hiu Din Hu (1319), ti i theo
Trung Tuyn vng xung Bo
Qut Giang Nam, vng cho gi
(1)
Trn Gim Nh Hng Chu, bo
v chn dung xu x ca ti.(3)
-Ha Hu Nhm (1286 - 1364)
cho bit: Ngi v chn dung xng
l cha con Trn Gim Nh Tin
ng t n ch tinh diu. Ti
khng quen bit Gim Nh, ch bit
2. (Trung) Sn C Tn ng - Q.2. Nguyn vn:
3. (Triu Tin) ch trai lon co - Q.4. Nguyn vn:
thng gim. Nguyn vn:
ngi con Chi in.(1)
-o Tng Nghi (1329 - 1410)
cho bit: Tin ng Trn Gim
Nh c suy tn mt thi bi ti
v truyn thn. (2)
-in Nh Thnh (1503 -
1557 ngi Tin ng, Hng
Chu) cho bit: Trn Gim Nh,
ngi huyn Nhn Ha (Hng
Chu), tinh thng vic v truyn
thn, n nay con chu ng vn
cn k tha gia hc. v.v.
Tuy nhin, theo gim nh ca
Bo tng Liu Ninh Trung Quc, tc
gi ca Trc lm i s xut sn
khng phi Trn Gim Nh. Liu
Ninh tnh bc vt qun tng Th
ha trc lc Hi ha quyn do
Nxb. M thut Liu Ninh xut bn
nm 1999 nhn nh: Sch B in
chu lm thi Thanh nhn nh Trc
Lm i s xut sn l do Trn
Gim Nh v, thc ra lm. Bi vt
tch ct xn phn cui tranh vn
1. (Trung) Ch Chnh tp - Q.31 - T - Tng t chn
Trn Chi in t. Nguyn vn:
phong cch hi ha, trang phc ca
2. (Trung) Chuyt canh lc - Nhn trung. Nguyn
vn:
3. (Trung) Ty H du lm ch d - Q.17 - Ngh vn
c th thy r, v li dng lc khon
Ch Chnh chp tam nin xun
Trn Gim Nh t sau ny mi
in vo cng ht sc r rt. Theo
Quyn 5 sch hi bo gim ca
H Vn Ngn thi Nguyn cho bit
Trn Gim Nh sng Hng Chu,
tinh thng v truyn thn, l cao th
s mt ca quc triu. Song trc
mt chng ta cha thy tc phm
no ca ng, nn khng c cch
(3)
no so snh vi bc tranh ny c,
ring dng lc khon sau ny mi
in chng minh y khng
phi ha phm c v ra t tay bt
Trn Gim Nh. Da vo bn na
con du gip lai nh K Ngao, Ty
S Vng Tn ca Hng Nguyn
Bin phn cch thy sau tranh, c
th thy r rng vic ny pht sinh
trong lc ngi ta ct xn tranh khi
bi biu. T c th on rng,
thi gian in lc khon phi ri
vo qung sau khi h Hng ng n
v trc khi c a vo cung nh
Thanh. Bc tranh tuy khng phi
tc phm ca h Trn, song xt t
nhn vt v cc li k, tn ca
nhiu danh nhn u thi Minh,

i ca tranh. Trong li bt ghi r
nm Vnh Lc th 18 (1420), v c
ba ngi ghi r nin i ti phn lc
khon; Trn ng, ngi vit ch
trin dn th, li l huyn lnh La
in gia thi Hng V, iu ny
xc quyt rng, bc tranh khng th
mun hn thi Minh s, c th truy
ln n cui thi Nguyn [] Bc
tranh ny vo cui thi Minh c
Hng Nguyn Bin thu gi, sau khi
c a vo ni ph nh Thanh,
trc khi Ph Nghi nhng ngi, vi
danh ngha l vt thng cho Ph
Kit, c vn chuyn cng mt
s bc th ha khc qua Thin Tn
ti ngy cung Trng Xun. Sau
khi Th chin th hai kt thc, Ph
Nghi mang cc ha phm ny chy
ti thnh ph Lm Giang tnh Ct
Lm, b qun ta bt c, giao li
cho Ngn hng nhn dn ng Bc
chuyn cho y ban qun l vn vt
ng Bc, sau a v Bo tng
ng Bc tc Bo tng Liu Ninh
ngy nay ct gi(1).
Cn lu thm rng, v quan
ngi Vit Trn Quang Ch v
1. Liu Ninh tnh bc vt qun tng - Th ha trc
lc - Hi ha quyn. Tr.248
III. TRANG PHC QUN I
Ton th chp: (Nm 1285) Quan qun giao chin vi qun Nguyn
133
Hm T Quan, cc qun u c mt, ring qun ca Chiu Vn Vng
nhng ngi vit li bt sau tranh
Trn Nht Dut c ngi Tng, mc o kiu Tng, cm cung tn chin
u khng mt li nhc n danh
u. Thng hong s cc qun c th khng phn bit c, sai ngi
ha Trn Gim Nh. Trong khi ,
d rng: y l qun Tht ca Chiu Vn Vng, phi nhn cho k! Chng
D nh sau khi nghe Trn Quang
v ngi Tng v ngi Tht, ting ni v trang phc tng t.(1) T y
Ch thut li s tch ca vua Trn,
c th suy, ng thi din mo qun trang ca binh tng i Vit c
lin ni T triu trc n nay,
s phn bit kh ln vi qun trang ca ngi Tng v ngi Nguyn.
tn tui ngi khng c bit n
Trung chu [...] Nay may gp thnh
triu, khi phc cng th thi Hn
ng, thu ht t y, nhp vo bn
, khin phong tc ng vn ng
qu, nn tranh ny mi c truyn
b kinh s. Bng khng, tn tui
ca i s cng ch lu truyn mt
vng Nam Giao m thi [...] Ngi
Nam Giao v li s vic nht thi,
hoan h truyn xem(2). Ph Hip vit
li bt cui tranh cng ni Ngi Qun i triu Tng v triu Nguyn do Lu Vnh Hoa phc dng (Trung Quc
c i qun nhung phc sc); Binh lnh triu Trn (Bo tng Lch s Vit Nam).
trong nc hm m, lm ra tranh
ny(3). Nh vy, vi nhng chng
Nh chng ti cp ti phn kho v trang phc qun i thi
c hin c, chng ti cho rng tc
L, qun trang ca i Vit ch yu gm: trang phc Gip Tr dnh cho
gi ca Trc Lm i s xut sn
tng lnh, trang phc T Phng Bnh nh v khinh trang mnh trn
khng phi Trn Gim Nh, m rt
ng kh dnh cho qun binh. Din mo qun trang ny vn tip tc
c th l mt ha s Vit Nam.
c k tha vo thi Trn.
i chiu pho tng Kim Cng thi L, pho tng tng canh ca
2. Li bt sau tranh. Nguyn vn: khai qut ti di tch Bo Thp thi Trn, c th thy b Gip Tr Minh
Quang c du nhp v Vit ha t thi Tin L v thi L vn c k
tha vo thi Trn. Ring pho tng khai qut ti di tch Bo Thp c
i cht bin d so vi tng Kim Cng thi L, trong tm gip che
[]
3. Nh trn. Nguyn vn:
1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
 h b c thit k theo kiu vy c, c s h cho Nguyn Trung Ngn mc chin bo, i m v, eo Lng ( ming
ng vi cc dng gip tr thi L sau ny. g vung bn gc) v nghin vng duyt cm qun(1). i Vit thng
134 135
Bn thn H Nguyn Trng l ngi thng s cho bit: nm 1425, L Li t xng Kim hiu Thi s Bnh chng
tho binh kh, sau khi b bt v Trung Quc, qun quc trng s i thin hnh ha, t Kim Ng i, song Kim H
tng m xng ch tc o gip m tr cho nh ph, Trang v v quc cng; nm 1427, t cc v i thn ti chc thi
Minh. Nh vy Gip Tr ca i Vit ng thi y, ai c cng ln c thng Kim ph; nm 1429, Trnh Kh c ban
hn l loi Gip Tr cng chc, c tnh thc dng Ngn ph v.v. Nh vy, c th thy cc loi ph hiu bng vng bc
cao, nu khng nh Minh khng H Nguyn chm khc hnh h (H ph), hnh my (Vn ph), hnh ra (Quy ph),
Trng coi gi cng vic ny. Ngoi ra, Bo tng hnh k ln (Ln ph) ca cc quan v rt phong ph a dng, c
Lch s Vit Nam hin lu gi mt tm ngi c dng th hin phm cp ca cc quan.
hnh tng v s i m u h c xc nh c
nin i thi Trn. iu ny khin chng ti ng IV. TRANG PHC DN GIAN
rng mt i qun no thi Trn, c th l i 1. Y phc
Tng tng lnh mc qun H Dc hoc H Bn s dng loi m c Trang phc dn gian thi Trn vn
gip Minh Quang, cm
ph vit thi Trn, khai hnh u h. Ti Trung Quc, m u h c gi tip tc k tha trang phc thi L vi o
qut ti di tch Bo Thp, l H Quan, lm bng st, xut hin vo thi Ty Sam c trn bn vt, thng mu en,
x Thng Li, huyn Vn
n, Qung Ninh. (Th ng - Ng i, t thi Tng tr v sau khng qun la trng. An Nam ch lc cho bit:
gii di sn). thy na . (1)
Vng hu v th dn thng mc o c
Cng nh ch ng - Tng, vo thi Trn phc sc Ng i trn, thng mu en huyn, qun bng l
ch dnh ring cho quan vn. i vi quan trng, hi chung loi bng da. S thn
v, Ton th chp: Phm Ng Lo vo nh Nguyn Trn Cng Trung cng miu
nm 1279 c ban Vn ph , nm t: Ngi trong nc u mc mu en,
1294 c ban Kim ph , nm 1301 o en bn vt, c trn lm bng l. Ph
c phong lm Thn v i tng qun, n cng mc o en, song o trng bn
c ban Quy ph , nm 1302 c trong l r ra ngoi, m ly c, rng bn
phong lm in sy, c ban H ph tc l khc bit. Cc mu xanh, , vng,
V quan vinh quy . (Bo tng M
; nm 1390, Phm Mnh c ban cho ta tuyt nhin khng c.(2) Tuy nhin,
thut Vit Nam).
lm Dc v qun, ri thng lm Uy Minh ni nh vy khng c ngha rng ton b
tng qun, ch huy qun Thnh Dc, eo ngi i Vit, ai ny u mc cng mt kiu o. Ngoi loi o c trn,
Kim Vn ph ; nm 1395, H Qu Ly chc chn vn cn c cc loi o t thn, giao lnh m qua bc tranh
Tng v s thi ng, i m
c thng lm Nhp ni ph chnh Thi H Quan, khai qut ti m Ut Trc Lm i s xut sn chng ta vn bt gp. Ring loi o c trn
s Bnh chng qun quc trng s Tuyn Tr Knh c nm 1972, Trung x vt n thi L Trung Hng vn cn xut hin trong mt s tranh v
Quc; Tng v s thi Trn i
trung v quc i vng, eo Kim Ln ph H Quan (Bo tng Lch s Vit
; nm 1351, vua Trn D Tng ban Nam).
1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
2. (Trung) Nguyn thi k s - Q.9 - S Giao thi tp. Tr.178. Nguyn vn:
1. (Trung) Trung Quc y quan phc sc i t in. Tr.85.
 nh Vn quan vinh quy , V quan vinh thng khng i khn (m), khng i giy, ng tc mi c thun
quy , Ging hc . tin, vic ny thnh thi quen, khng thay i c.(1) Th ba, theo
136 137
i vi mt s cht liu vi vc thi hnh v ngi Vit trong Trc Lm i s xut sn v Tam ti hi,
Trn - H, Cao Hng Trng nhn xt: Vi c th thy nam gii ngi Vit th k XIV, XV khng mc qun di,
vc nc y th c cc loi the Ct Liu, the l bp chn trn. Cch n vn gin tin ny tng c Cristoforo Borri
hoa tim to si thng, the hp, la bng, m t (khong 1615): n ng thay v mc qun di th dng c mt
bng, (the la c hoa bng chng cht khng dng tm vi qun li, pha trn mc thm nm hoc su mnh o di v
si thng, u gi l ), lnh, l, hi t kh l m rng(2) Nh vy, cch n vn kt hp gia o, m, qun, xim hn c
tt. Hai th gai, t chui th c chp li a chung vo nhng ngy mt lnh, thng c i tng l tng lp
lm vi, mn nh la nn, rt hp mc vo trung thng lu. Nam gii bnh dn thng ch ng kh, mc chm
ma h.(1) ra ngoi chic o di.
Ph n thi L mc o c trn bn Ngoi ra, Ung i Uyn, ngi nh 2. Kiu tc
vt khp vi nhng m t v trang
phc thi L Trn. (Vn quan vinh Nguyn trong o di ch lc cn m t Vo thi L, theo m t ca Chu Kh
quy , th k XVII, XVIII. BT- ngi Vit thi Trn mt trng rng en, Phi, ngi Vit phn ln bi tc chuy k.
MTVN). V mu sc trang phc
thi L, Kin vn tiu lc ca L tht ai, i m, mc o ng, o trm Tuy nhin, bc sang thi Trn, s thn
Qu n cho bit: n bn triu bn ngoi mu en, tt t, giy vung. (2)
nh Nguyn l Trn Cng Trung li
ngy nay th tc [] mc o thm
en thay i ri. Tuy nhin, nhng ngi Vit trong miu t miu t n ng ngi Vit hu ht u
ca Ung i Uyn c l u l qu tc. co trc. L Qu n din gii ghi nhn
Bi th nht, ngi thi Trn ch i m khi c vic cng cn cn ra ca Trn Cng Trung: Thi Trn, ngi
ngoi. i vi cc quan, khi nh h u trn, thy khch th i trong nc u co tc, cho nn S Giao
m, i u xa th mt ngi bng m mang theo , cn th dn nh(3)
thi tp ca Trn Cng Trung thi Nguyn
ngy thng khng i m. (4)
Th hai, i vi thng dn, vic i giy mi ch rng: n ng u trc, ngi c
tt c l khng my d chu, c bit trong nhng ngy nng bc. Qua quan chc th dng khn xanh ph u,
nhng ghi chp ca s thn Trn Cng Trung nm 1292, ta thy quan dn u nh s c. n thi thuc Minh,
dn thi Trn a s u a i t: Dn u i chn t [] Da chn h Hong Phc mi bt u cm co tc, n
rt dy, leo ni nh bay, gai gc cng khng s. (5)
An Nam ch nguyn nay dn vng Giao Thy, Kin Lao, Tr Ngi Giao Ch trong Tam ti
hi (th k XV).
dn sch Giao Ch thng ch cho bit: Dn u i t, ch c ngi cao L vn cn gi tc ny. (3)
Lnh cm ca
sang mi i giy da.(6) Nguyn do ca vic i t u trn c L Giao Ch b chnh ty Hong Phc m L Qu n nhc ti y chnh
Qu n gii thch: V nc ta l ni nng nc, m thp, nhn dn lc l nhng sc lnh nu trong Thn minh gio ha bng vn c ban
hnh ti Vit Nam nm 1414: K no cn dm noi theo thi t, co trc
1. (Trung) An Nam ch nguyn - Q.1 - Th sn. Nguyn vn:

2. (Trung) o di ch lc - An Nam:
3. (Trung) Nguyn thi k s - Q.9 - S Giao thi tp. Tr.178. Nguyn vn:
1. (Vit) Kin vn tiu lc. Nguyn vn:
4. (Trung) An Nam ch lc - Phong tc. Nguyn vn:
5. (Trung) Nguyn thi k s - Q.9 - S Giao thi tp. Tr.178. Nguyn vn: [] 2. Dn theo Nhng l khch trong hnh trnh khm ph Vit Nam. Tr. 41
3. (Vit) Kin vn tiu lc. Nguyn vn:
6. (Trung) An Nam ch nguyn - Q.2 - Phong tc. Nguyn vn:
 i t [] Hu Ty s ti s nghim khc tay, o vt tri, y l dn u Vit(1), ng thi m t Vit vng Cu Tin
trng tr(1). Nh vy vic nam gii ngi trc 300 nm c phong Ci K phng th H V. Cu Tin
138 139
Vit thi Trn thng co trc u l xm mnh, ct tc, pht c hoang m lp ra thn p.(2) Thm ch, Trang
vic hon ton c thc. Thi quen ny T (365 290 tr.CN) cng tng cp ti vic ngi Vit pha Nam sng
tip tc c duy tr n thi L s. Phi Dng T c tp tc chung l ct tc xm mnh(3). Nh vy c th thy,
n nm 1470 vua L Thnh Tng mi tc ct tc xm mnh ca c dn Bch Vit ni chung, ngi Vit vng
ra lnh cm nhng ngi khng phi ng bng chu th sng Hng ni ring l tp tc xut hin t rt sm.
s si khng c co trc u . K (2)
Tc gi ca cun Lnh Nam chch qui thi Trn, qua truyn v h Hng
t y, tc co trc trong dn gian Vit Bng l gii ngun gc ca tp tc ny rng, bui quc s ngi Vit
Nam mi dn dn bin mt, v khong ct tc ngn tin vo rng ni(4).
200 nm sau , nm 1642, quan nim
Tng Thi s Trn Th , cha Cu
ng, H Ni. (nh: TQ). ca ngi Vit v tc co trc hon
ton thay i. Lc ny thng gia ngi
Php Jean Baptiste cho bit ngi Vit cho rng u trc l mt hnh
ng xc phm n danh d, v ch c nhng k phm ti hnh s, khi b
bt mi b co trc u.(3)
Tuy nhin vo thi Trn, ngoi nhng ngi co trc vn c nhng
ngi bi tc chuy k hoc ct tc ngn nh ghi nhn ca Nghim Tng
Gin v Cao Hng Trng c ngi bi tc chuy k, c ngi ct tc, xm
mnh, i t, ming rng en(4). Nh vy cch ni ngi trong nc
u co tc ca Trn Cng Trung l cch ni c phn khoa trng.
y, Nghim Tng Gin v Cao Hng Trng u vin dn c tch, ghi
Ngi dn Vit ct tc ngn, i chn t, khing vng ch Pht hong Trn
nhn ngi Vit c tc ct tc ngn v bi tc chuy k. Ring tc ct tc Nhn Tng. (Trc Lm i s xut sn ).
ngn c th coi l mt trong nhng tc tc c lch s lu i nht,
tng c triu nh L s ht sc c xy sau khi phc quc. Vo thi Trn, nm 1300, triu nh i Vit tng c quy nh m
Ngay t nm 137 trc Cng nguyn, Hoi Nam Vng Lu An gi mo dnh ring cho cc vng hu, ai tc di i m Triu Thin, ai
s cho vua Hn V ni: Vit l vng t bin vin, l dn ct tc tc ngn i m Bao Cn. Hng o vng Trn Quc Tun c Ton
xm mnh. Ngi Vit ct tc th khng th dng php ca mt nc th m t l ct tc trc khi n s qun gp Si Thung(5). Ngi
ai m tr c(5). T M Thin cho bit: Ct tc xm mnh, tr cnh dn Vit th hin trong bc tranh Trc Lm i s xut sn v bc

1. (Trung) An Nam ch nguyn. Nguyn vn: [].

2. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: 1. (Trung) S k - Triu th gia. Nguyn vn:
3. Tp du k mi v k th v vng quc ng Ngoi (1681). Tr.50. 2. (Trung) S k - Vit Vng Cu Tin th gia. Nguyn vn: ,
4. (Trung) Th vc chu t lc - Q.5 - An Nam. Nguyn vn:
(Trung) An Nam ch nguyn - Q.2 - Phong tc. Nguyn vn: 3. (Trung) Trang t - Ni thin - Tiu Diu du. Nguyn vn: ,,

5. (Trung) An Nam ch lc - Q.5 - Tin triu th s - Mn Vit kch Nam Vit Hn V hng binh chu Mn 4. (Vit) Lnh nam chch qui - Hng Bng th truyn. Bn A.2107, VHv.1473, nguyn vn:
Vit, Hoi Nam vng An thng th gin. Nguyn vn: . Bn A.33: ct tc ngn tin vo sng ni.
5. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
 Giao Ch quc trong Tam ti hi (thi Minh) cng u ct tc ngn.
Ph kho
Kiu tc th hin trong hai bc tranh ny hon ton khp vi nhng m
140 CI CCH QUAN PHC NM 1396 V TRANG PHC THI H 141
t ca s thn nh Minh l Phan Hy Tng khi i s i Vit nm 1513:
Ct tc khng phn nam n, i m khu bit vn thn, km theo ch
thch: Tc hi che trn, ph xung gy, ring ngi i s Trung Quc
th tc di(1). Nm 1395, vua Trn Ngh Tng
Cng nh tc co trc, nm 1414 sau khi sp nhp nc Vit vo mt, H Qu Ly c phong lm Ph
bn Trung Quc, triu nh nh Minh ra lnh cm trai gi (ngi chnh Thi s nhip chnh. Cc ci
Vit) ct tc [] ng ha theo phong tc phng Bc (2)
. Chnh v nhng cch ca nh Trn din ra t nm
cm lnh mang tnh hy dit vn ha ny m s thn Ng S Lin mi 1395 cho n khi h H chnh thc
than xit: Hn hai mi nm, i phong tc thnh tc di rng trng, son v trn thc t u do H Qu
thnh ngi phng Bc! i thi! Lm lon n th l cng vy!(3) Song Ly sp t.
sau khi ginh li c c lp t tay nh Minh, triu nh nh L s H Qu Ly t nhn l dng di
c xy cho tp tc ct tc ngn c truyn, th hin qua vic vua L Thi xa ca H Cng Mn, t Ngu Thun
Tng nm 1437 ra lnh cho nhng ngi Minh i Vit phi ct tc lm thy t(1), chnh v vy ng t
ngn nh ngi Kinh(4); vua L Uy Mc nm 1509 bt o s i Vit vn quc hiu nc Vit l i Ngu. Xut
gi np c, bi tc nh u, ci trm nh o s Trung Hoa, u phi pht t t tng ny, H Qu Ly ht
ct tc ngn, khng c tc di(5). sc t tn v hc vn v hm th vn
Ring kiu tc ca ph n Vit thi Trn, ngoi bi tc chuy k, ha ca mnh. i vi nhng nh
theo Trn Cng Trung, ph n i Vit thi ny cn ct tc ngn, lu nho ni ting ca Trung Quc, trn
li ba tc, buc nh u, un ngn tc ri tht li nh bt, khng c thc t c nh hng su sc ti t
T cho l thnh trit hn Tam hong,
tc mai v tc tha ng sau.(6) Qua m t trn, chng ti hnh dung tng Nho gio ca ba nc Trung c cao hn Ng ; coi Vn vng,
mi tc ngn ca ph n thi Trn by gi nu bung xa cng di qu Quc, Triu Tin, Nht Bn, bn V vng khng lm php tc, khinh
vai, di hn mi tc ngn ca n ng qung mi xen ti mt (ba tc), thn H Qu Ly thng thng nhn Chu cng, Khng t khng lm bc
thy; hy bng Mnh T l o nho
sau c buc li nh u, hi gp li un ra pha sau, tht li nh xt: Hn D l tay nho n trm; (tay nh nho n trm), Trnh Chu tho
ngn bt lng, khng tc tha gy v hai bn mai. Chu Mu Thc, Trnh Ho, Trnh cp nht. Di thnh di tri, khng
Di, Dng Thi, La Trng T, L Din ngi khng th. Tim quc hiu gi l
i Ngu, trm k nguyn gi l Thiu
Bnh, Chu T, tuy hc rng nhng Thnh. Xng l Lng cung hong ,
ti mn, khng st vi s vic, ch dm dng nghi l triu nh. Chng
chuyn cp nht.(2) Vy nn cng phi ch ngang tng ci xa, m k
thc mun chng chi ngang hng
1. (Trung) Trc Gin tp - Nam Giao k s. Nguyn vn: khng my kh hiu khi ng t bin cng Trung Quc. (Nguyn vn chp

2. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: []
chp thin V dt trong Kinh Th, trong Triu Tin vng triu thc lc).
3. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: ,,
4. Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
5. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: . Trong Thp gii c hn quc ng vn, L
Thnh Tng miu t o s ti i Vit i hong quan (m mu vng), ci nht nht trm ng. 1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
6. (Trung) Nguyn thi k s - Q.9 - An Nam tc s. Tr.178. Nguyn vn: 2. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:

 dch ra quc ng dy vua(1), ri lm sch Quc
ng thi ngha v bi ta, sai n s dy hu phi v
142
cung nhn, trong bi ta phn nhiu theo
mnh, khng theo tp truyn ca Chu T(2) Chnh
nhng ng thi ny ca H Qu Ly khin mt b
phn nho s nh Minh ng thi coi ng l k
hy bng Nho gio Trung Quc, nh tc gi ca
Bnh nh Nam Giao lc, Khu Tun ni: Qu Ly
xng Thi thng hong, hy bng Nho gio Trung
Quc, gi Mnh T l tay nho n trm, Trnh Ho,
Trnh Di, Chu T l k cp nht.(3)
Trong bi th p li hi ca ngi Minh v
Chim phng thi L
Trn (Hong thnh phong tc ca ngi nc Vit, H Qu Ly ni:
Thng Long) v chim Mun hi chuyn nc An Nam/ Nc An Nam
phng thi H (Trung
tm bo tn di sn thnh phong tc thun hu/ o m nh ch nh
nh H). D trang phc
ng/ L nhc ta vua quan nh Hn.
b quan thi L, Trn,
H mi thi mt v, cng chnh l t tng ch o ca t ci cch
song phong cch kin
y phc Thng triu nm 1396, m qu bn cc
trc, ngh thut L Trn
vn tip tc c k dng m mo tn ch c nguyn mu l nhng loi
tha n u thi L.
m thnh hnh vo thi Hn - ng Trung Hoa
nh m Cao Sn, Vin Du, Thi C, Khc Phi v.v.
hon ton khc vi cc kiu m thi L - Trn vn chu nh hng bi
quy ch nh Tng. Bn cnh vic t ra mt s kiu o m Thng triu,
nh H cn quy nh ton b nhng binh li khng phm cp, hng
honh n mc o mu trng, i ngc li tp qun ca nh Trn vn coi
mu trng l mu sang trng, ch dnh cho vua. Ngoi ra, nm 1395, H
Qu Ly cn ra lnh cho b quan khng c mc o thng tay, i ht
thnh o hp tay(5); nm 1396 quy nh cho vn v b quan t lc phm
tr ln u c i giy Tch trong cc bui Thng triu. Giy Tch vn
l loi giy thi Hn, n thi Tng ch cn c s dng vo nhng dp
1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
2. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: , , ,
3. (Trung) K lc vng bin - Q.47 - Bnh nh Nam Giao lc. Nguyn vn:
4. (Trung) An Nam ch lc. Nguyn vn: dch l cc tng quan chc tc theo chng ti cng khng chnh xc; ch
5. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
i l. Tuy nhin nm 1404, sau khi H
Hn Thng chnh thc ln ngi hong
143
, li lnh cho b quan khng c i
giy Tch, ch cho i hi gai sng(1). iu
ny cng th hin tm l sng c ca nh
H, nht qun vi vic t tn nc l i Trang sc hnh phng thng
(Trung Quc phc sc i t in).
Ngu, ng thi th hin tm l mun khc
bit hn v y quan phm phc so vi nh Trn trc kia v khu bit vi
nh Minh do ngi Hn va lp ra phng Bc.
i vi trang phc ca cc vua nh H, Ton th ch cho bit nm
1399, H Qu Ly t xng l Quc t Chng hong, mc o mu b
hong(2). Trong bi th tng Nguyn Ngn Quang, H Qu Ly vit: Mt
ny u b Min lu che, chng t trong dp i l ln ngi, t tri t
(H Hn Thng cho dng n t Giao vo nm 1402), cha con h H
cng i m Bnh Thin, s dng nghi l ca thin triu.
(4)
y i vi trang phc ca b quan nh Trn v nh H t thng 6
nm 1396 cho n khi nh H dit vong, Ton th cho bit: Quan nht
phm o mu ta; nh phm mu thm; tam phm mu hng; t
phm mu lc; ng phm, lc phm, tht phm mu bic; bt phm,
cu phm mu xanh. Ring ni th mc vy m. u khng c mc
thng. Ngi khng c phm hm v hng honh n dng mu trng.
Li theo chc tc b quan, t lc phm tr ln dng m Cao Sn, Chnh
lc phm c tht ai, i giy Tch. V sc m, chnh th sc en, tng
th sc xanh. Ngi tn tht i m Phng Thng mu en. V quan
tc lc phm i m Chit Xung. Tc cao m khng c chc tht ai,
i m Gic nh. T tht phm tr xung i m Thi C; Tng tht
phm i m Ton Hoa. Vng hu i m Vin Du; Ng s i i m
Khc Phi(3) Ngoi ra, Ton th cn ghi nhn nm 1437 vua L Thi
Tng quy nh cho b quan vn v u i m Cao Sn, ng thi ch
1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: .,,
2. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
3. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
Cm t khai qun, bn
dch ca Nxb. KHXH nm 1998 dch l qun hai ng khng chnh xc. Ngoi ra, cm t c
y nn phin l tng,
hiu theo ngha ng t l theo.
 thch trc y quan v i m Chit Xung.(1) Bi vy cu V quan BNG SO SNH I TNG S DNG M VIN DU, KHC PHI,
tc lc phm i m Chit Xung nn c hiu rng cc quan v t CAO SN, THI C CA NH H VIT NAM V
144 145
lc phm tr ln th i m Chit Xung. Da theo sch Tam l thi NH HN TRUNG QUC
Tng c th bit c kiu dng c bn ca cc loi m Cao Sn, Khc (theo Ton th v Tam l )
Phi, Vin Du, Thi C ca triu nh Trn - H. M Ton Hoa dnh cho
cc quan vn v Tng tht phm hn l loi m c p dng cho ngch Cc loi m i tng s dng

Tng quan ca nh Trn trc y. i vi nhng loi m Gic nh, Nh H Vit Nam Nh Hn Trung Quc

Phng Thng, xt theo danh xng, c l m Gic nh (gic: gc, sng; M Vin Du Vng hu Vng hu
nh: nh) l m nh nhn hoc c sng tng t nh m Gic Cn M Khc Phi Ng s i Cung in mn li, Bc x
ca n s Trung Quc; m Phng Thng hn c nh trang sc hnh M Cao Sn Quan vn Trung quan, ngoi quan,
Phng Thng (hnh bnh hnh an xen). Ring m Chit Xung dnh cho v Lc phm tr ln cn thn, yt gi

quan, chng ti cho rng khng th da vo tn m m on y l loi M Thi C Quan vn, v Cng khanh, i phu
Lc phm tr xung
m c cnh chun gp (chit) ri hng thng ln tri (xung) nh m
Triu Thin, loi m dnh cho vng hu nh Trn. y, Chit Xung l
tn mt i qun ca nh ng nhiu ln xut hin trong vn khc QUY CH THNG PHC CA B QUAN

c ca Vit Nam(2), c kh nng m Chit Xung l loi m c ti ch NH TRN T NM 1396 V NH H

t mt kiu m ca qun i nh ng? (theo Ton th)

Tn tht i m Phng Thng mu en, vng hu i m Vin

Du, tc cao m khng c chc i m Gic nh, ng s i i
m Khc Phi
Ban vn Ban v

M Phc sc M Phc sc
V sc m, chnh sc en, tng sc xanh
Nht phm Cao Sn Ta Chit Xung Ta
Nh phm Cao Sn sm Chit Xung sm
Tam phm Cao Sn Hng Chit Xung Hng
T phm Cao Sn Lc Chit Xung Lc
M Khc Phi, m Cao Sn, m Vin Du, m Thi C. Trn y l cc loi m theo quy ch thi
Hn ng do Nhip Sng Ngha, ngi thi Tng kho, vit trong sch Tam l . Nh H ti Ng phm Cao Sn Bic Chit Xung Bic
ch cc loi m c thi Hn ng, nhiu kh nng da vo cun sch ny. D nhin, nhng chic Lc phm Cao Sn Bic Chit Xung Bic
m khi c p dng vo triu nh i Ngu hn c s bin d.
Chnh tht Thi C Bic Thi C Bic
1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
phm
2. Bi minh khc trn chic chung x Thanh Mai c c vo ngy 30 thng 3 nm Trinh Nguyn 14 nh Tng tht Ton Hoa Bic Ton Hoa Bic
ng, tc ngy 20 thng 4 nm 798. Ni dung k khai h tn chc tc ca nhng thnh vin Hi Ty H phm
v nhng ngi tham gia c chung. Trong c nhng v nh: Tm chu An Lc ph Chit Xung y
Quch T Cng; Dim chu Dim xuyn ph Chit Xung Cao Tho; Tm chu an lc ph Chit Xung Bt phm Thi C Xanh Thi C Xanh
Quch du l; Kinh chu T mn ph Chit Xung, thng ph Ng i Quch Lp; Chiu V hiu y Hng
chu gii hu Chit Xung, thng tr quc Thiu Ngh v.v. (Dn theo Vn khc Hn Nm Vit Nam. Tp Cu phm Thi C Xanh Thi C Xanh
1. Tr.19). Tham kho thm nh ngha ca Hn in (Zdic.net).
 i vi trang phc qun i thi H, chng ti cho rng gip phc
ca tng lnh thi H vn k tha gip phc thi L - Trn. Ngoi ra,
146
bn thn cc loi o gip khng ch c lm bng kim loi, lp lt trong
cng ca o phn ln c lm bng da. Vy nn nm 1401 trn ng
i nh Chim Thnh, gp phi nc l, cn kit lng thc trong ba
ngy, tng s phi nng gip da n(1). Bn cnh , L H ngi
thi Minh cho bit, sau khi b bt v Bc Kinh, Thng th b Cng (nh
Minh) ng L Trng (tc H Nguyn Trng) ln u tin m Thn C doanh
(doanh tri to sng thn c), xy Khi Gip xng (xng ch to o Gip
m Tr), ch to thn thng thn sng, bn lui gic Tht di chn ni
Cu Long(2), chng t bn thn H Nguyn Trng rt tho vic ch to
Gip Tr.
i vi trang phc dn gian di triu H, ta cng ch bit rng
nm 1404, H Hn Thng cm mi ngi trong thin h dng loi
la phiu k lm o, ch cho phiu s qua, (3)
tc ch cho php dn
gian c dng loi la th may qun o, khng c dng la mn.
Mt s lnh cm ca nh Minh i vi u tc qun o ca ngi
Vit, cng h l cho chng ta c bit din mo trang phc dn gian
thi k ny. Ton th chp: (Nm 1414) Nh Minh cm nam n khng
c ct tc. Ph n mc o di, vy di, i theo phong tc phng
Bc. (4)
An Nam ch nguyn cng ghi lnh cm rng: K no dm noi
theo thi t trc y, co trc i t [] Hu ty s ti phi gia nghim
trng tr(5); v T nay vic n mc khng c noi theo thi tc man
di, i t h ngc, ln vt s dng cc sc huyn, vng, ta u coi l
lnh cm, nhum gi phong tc Trung Hoa, k no vi phm th bt
ti. Quan li u dng m Phc u c hai cnh chun thun di, o
di c trn vt phi, vt c o dt bng t, lng tht dy thao, chn i
hi. Sinh vin u dng m Phc u cnh chun thun di, o c
trn mu xanh lam, c vt, tht thao, i hi. Cc chc dch cai qun
dn chng nh th lnh, quan lang, x chnh, li giam, khai sao u
dng o di c trn vt phi, i khn m, i giy hia. Ph n nu c
1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
2. (Trung) Gii am lo nhn mn bt - Q.6 - An Nam ng thng th. Tr.220. Nguyn vn:
2. (Trung) An nam ch lc - Q.3 - i Nguyn phng s - Trng thng th hnh lc. Nguyn vn:
3. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
4. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
5. (Trung) An Nam ch nguyn. Nguyn vn: []
chng lm quan theo quy ch trong bng vn, ngi khng c chng
lm quan phi bi tc, dng la en bc u, khuyn tai, lc cho
147
c ty nghi s dng. o u phi dng o Sam, vy di, hi dng hi
vi hoc da, nht lot khng c ct tc i t, khng c dng cc
mu sc huyn, vng, ta.(1)
Ph lc 1
TRANG PHC C TANG V QUAN NIM V MU EN TRNG
- (Trung) An Nam ch lc (Trn): Quc ch ngy thng i m
ng Cn, thng phc coi mu trng l mu sang qu. Ngi trong
nc ai mc mu trng tc l tim ch, ring ph n khng cm. Nm
1291, khi vua Trn Thnh Tng mt, vua Trn Anh Tng ni vi s thn
nh Nguyn: Ta tang cha, mc o en, n rau c, trai gii trong nm
nm.(2) Phn Phong tc li vit: Quy ch tang l v dng trong cung
tht kh ging Trung Quc.(3)
- (Vit) Ton th (Trn): Nm 1377, d b ti nhiu ln can ngn,
vua Trn Du Tng vn quyt ch thn chinh i nh Chim Thnh.
m t cho vic xut qun bt li v d on v mt kt cc tang tc,
Ton Th miu t: khi vua dn mi hai vn qun n bn sng x Bt,
c ngi lng lm m ma, vua bt v 30 quan tin. n thng 5 nm
sau, trc khi ra trn, vua quyt nh mc qun phc mu en, cho
Ng Cu Vng Hc mc mu trng, ci nga trng. Kt qu: Vua b
hm trong trn m cht. Bn i tng L, Nguyn Np Ha, hnh
khin Phm Huyn Linh u cht c. Gic bt sng c Ng Cu Vng,
em con gi g cho.(4)
1. (Trung) An Nam ch nguyn. Nguyn vn:
,,,,
3. (Trung) An Nam ch lc - Phong tc. Nguyn vn:
4. (Vit) Ton th. Tp 2. Tr.160-161.
 - (Trung) Doanh nhai thng lm tp:
Ph lc 2
(Chim Thnh) cho php c mc mu ta,
148 149
ring vua mc trng, cm mc cc mu S LNG THT LA V QUT CNG SANG NH MINH
en huyn, mu vng, k no lm tri th b T 1416 N 1423
ti cht. (1)

- (Trung) Minh thc lc (Trn - H):

Nm 1419, L Vn Chnh, Giao Ch b chnh T chiu vua L Thi T ban ngy 17 thng10 nm 1430 cho bit:
ty tu ln vua Minh: Ngi Giao Chkhi Sau khi ngi Ng ly c nc ta [] cm mm mui khin dn
cha m mt ch mc o en Xin em tang l khn v ng n, i vi vc dn kh v ng mc.(1)
do quc triu t nh ban b khp dn gian,
h bit m tun theo.(2)
- (Vit) i Vit thng s (L): Nm Ngun dn Nin i S lng tht la S lng qut giy
C b ti lng c ng Lm
vn khn trng. L Qu n 1433, vua L Li mt. Ngy 24 thng 8 Hong Minh thc lc - Thng 12 1.668 tht 10.000 chic
cho bit: Tc nc ta, ngi ta Thi t ban lnh ch cho cc quan trong ngoi Thi Tng thc nm 1416
khng king mu trng, n b lc. Q.183
u i khn trng. u vn o s gu tang, sau khi lm l tt
Minh thc lc - Thng 12 1.252 tht 10.000 chic
khc (100 ngy), u vn o trng lm vic; Thi Tng thc nm 1417
qun dn khp thin h u vn o trng ba thng.(3) lc. Q.195

- (Vit) Lch triu hin chng loi ch (L): trong 100 ngy cc Minh thc lc - Thng 12 1.288 tht 10.000 chic
Thi Tng thc nm 1418
quan u phi mc o trng, ngoi 100 ngy dng o xanh hoc en, lc. Q.207
khng c dng mu hng, lc(4).
Minh thc lc - Thng 12 1.325 tht 10.000 chic
- (Vit) Vn i loi ng (L) cho bit: Tc nc ta khng king Thi Tng thc nm 1419
lc. Q.219
mu trng, n b u i khn trng. Thy ngi i khn , mi
ngi u ci v qui d ca h.(5) Minh thc lc Thng 12 2.265 tht 10.000 chic
- Thi Tng thc nm 1420
- (Vit) Gia nh thnh thng ch (Nguyn s) cho bit: C tang c lc. Q.232
k mc qun o la mu xanh en, ng nh li ng ng Pha ni: o Minh thc lc Thng 12 1.535 tht 7.535 chic
m kh phn bit c ngi c vic hiu hay vic h.(6) - Thi Tng thc nm 1421
lc. Q.244
Minh thc lc - Thng 12 1.390 tht 8.430 chic
Thi Tng thc nm 1422
lc. Q.254

1. (Trung) K lc vng bin - Q.63 - Doanh nhai thng lm tp - Chim Thnh. Nguyn vn: Minh thc lc - Thng 12 1.747 tht 10.000 chic
Thi Tng thc nm 1423
2. (Trung) Minh thc lc - Thi Tng thc lc - Q.214. Mc thng 7 nm 1419. Nguyn vn: lc. Q.254
[]
3. (Vit) L Qu n ton tp - Tp III - i Vit thng s. Tr.96.
4. (Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch - Tang nghi v tang phc. Tr.75.
5. (Vit) Vn i loi ng - Q.5 - Phm vt cu. Tr.21.

6. (Vit) Gia nh thnh thng ch - Q.4 - Phong tc. Nguyn vn: []
1. (Vit) i Vit thng s. Tr.87.
 bc, m ca tc minh t mt bc, tn l m Cng Thn, pha trn nh
Ph lc 3
hnh ong bm bng vng, to nh dy tha khc bit. Thn vng mc
150 PHN CHNG PHC TRONG AN NAM CH LC 151
o bo ta dt vng. Tc hu v tc minh t mc o bo thu hnh
phng c. T i liu ban tr xung mc Cn Min ty theo cp bc, ban
vn eo thm Kim Ng i. Vin ngoi lang, lang tng i m Min c
Bn Hn vn An Nam ch lc hiu bn do y ban Phin dch s cc vin vng bc an xen; t lnh th x ti hiu th lang thng ch th
liu Vit Nam thuc i hc Hu thc hin, in trong bn dch An Nam cm u i m Min bc. M Min dng trong cc dp i l.
ch lc xut bn nm 1961, c mt s im cha hp l v mt c u L thng ch i m Phc u, o bo ta, nh cung hu, th x
dn n vic phin dch thiu chnh xc. c bit phn Chng phc ng. ai hoc bng sng t, hoc bng vng, ty theo phm trt, ht ng
m t trang phc ca vua quan thi Trn do ngi dch khng nm c cng nh vy. Cc chc quan v t chc i m Phc u, o bo ta, ai
cc kin thc v phc trang nn cch hiu v phin dch c nhiu sai st. sng t, khng mang ht, chp tay ly.
Ngoi ra, hiu bn ny da vo bn d bn lu hnh hin nay l Lc bn, Quc ch ngy thng i m ng Cn, thng phc coi mu
Ni bn, Tnh bn, Anh bn, song so vi bn Vn Uyn cc vn c i trng l mu sang qu. Ngi trong nc ai mc mu trng tc l tim
ch xut nhp. Nay chng ti i chiu Hiu bn ca i hc Hu vi ch, ring ph n khng cm. V phc sc, vng hu v th dn thng
bn Vn Uyn cc, lp ra bn hiu chnh ny, ng thi c u v phin mc o c trn, mc thng mu en, qun bng l trng, chung loi
dch li nh sau: hi bng da. Vng hu gp ring quc ch khng i m, t thn thit
Nguyn vn: qu mn, th dn khng c nh vy.
Th cn ni quan, thng phm i m Dng ng, nh hnh
ong bm bng vng, dy tha khc bit. V trang phc, trung phm
mu sc o m gim xung mt cht, h phm i m Dng ng
khng trang sc, o bo ta, u chp tay ly (vua), u khng c ht.
Loi m thng phm i khi Thng triu dng vi nhung mu ta pha
bic lm thnh su tua, nh vo ai ngang sau m, t cao qu vy;
trung phm dng tua ta; h phm dng tua en; Cn hon lm bng
vng thng phm v i mi l khc bit.

Dch ngha:
Quc ch c m Bnh Thin, m Quyn Vn, m Ph Dung, mc
o Cn, eo ai Kim Long, c khoc phng tm khc lnh bng l trng
thu b gm nh vng, trn chu, tay cm ngc khu, phm tt l nhn
qun thn ly mng. M ca tc vng ba bc, m ca tc hu hai
 153

Chng III. TRANG PHC THI L

t trong bi cnh sau khi Chu Nguyn Chng nh chnh

quyn Mng Tht, lp nn triu nh i Minh vi khao kht khi phc
chnh quyn ca ngi Hn, lp li trt t Hoa di th nhng ng thi
ca triu nh i Vit khin ng vua Thi T nh Minh chuyn t
thi tin tng sang chn ght, to c cho cuc Nam xm ca Minh
Thi Tng. Trong khi Triu Tin, quc gia c vn hin l nhc ngoi
Trung Quc thng c nhc n cng nc Vit ng thi, hon
ton quy thun, ch xng vng, coi mi quan h Minh - Triu va l
ngha qun thn, va l o cha con(1), th ring vua quan ngi Vit
vn mang tm thi lm ch phng Nam. Vua Vit vn nghim nhin t
xng l hong .
Chu Nguyn Chng quan nim: T xa vng ng tr thin h,
Trung quc trong ch ng di ch, di ch ngoi phng s Trung
quc, cha nghe ni vic di ch Trung quc tr thin h bao gi(2)
[] Phm ni nht nguyt chiu ti, bt k xa gn, u coi nh nhau,

1. (Hn) Sau khi nh Minh sp , vng triu Triu Tin vn tip tc s dng nin hiu Sng Trinh (v
vua cui cng ca nh Minh) cho ti tn u th k XIX. Triu Tin thc lc khng t ln ca ngi cng n
nh tri b ca nh Minh dnh cho Triu Tin, nh n ti to ca Thn Tng hong (ch Minh Thn
Tng), t khi m ci n gi, cha tng thy chp vo in tch. Th gi l Nhn, chng g ln bng o
cha con, Ngha chng g ln bng o vua ti l vy. M trong o vua ti, chu n v cng, cha tng c
mi quan h no nh triu ta vi Hong Minh vy. (Hiu Tng thc lc. Mc ngy Bnh Tut thng 10 nm
th 8. Nguyn vn:
); Triu ta i vi i Minh, l vua
ti m cng l cha con vy. (Hiu Tng thc lc. Mc ngy Bnh Tut thng 7 nm th 16. Nguyn vn:
)v.v.
2. (Trung) Minh Thi t thc lc - Q.26 - Mc ngy Bnh Dn, thng 10 ma ng, Hng V nguyn nin.
Nguyn vn: ,

 vy nn Trung Quc t vng th bn phng yn bnh.(1) Chnh v vy
ngay sau khi ln ngi, ng lin thc hin k hoch ti thit trt t Hoa
154
Di, yu cu cc thuc quc ni li quan h triu cng, trong Triu
Tin v An Nam l hai ln quc c nh Minh u i hng u. Qu
thc, ngay sau khi nh Minh thnh lp, nm 1368 vua Trn D Tng
c Don Thun Thn sang s nh Minh. Ti thi im ny, vua Minh
Thi t khen vn hin nc Nam vn gn gi c ch c, khng thay
i theo phong tc Nguyn Mng, ng thi tng bn ch Vn hin chi
bang, sp ch ng ca s thn An Nam ln trn s thn Triu Tin ba
bc , mt s u i ht sc hy hu. Chnh vua Minh Thi T tuyn b:
(2)
Trm lm vua thin h, thnh chnh thng, t nay c ba nm, cc
nc hi ngoi vo triu cng th An Nam ng u, sau ti Cao Ly,
sau na ti Chim Thnh, cc nc u dng biu xng thn, hp vi quy
ch c, trm ht sc khen ngi.(3) i hc s triu Minh l Vng Ngao
cn cho bit: Khp trong bn b, nhng ni uy c ca nc nh tri
n khng ni no khng vo triu cng hng nm, Triu Tin v An
Nam gn li thn, l cc nc c vn hin c l gio, vy nn l tit ca
triu nh i vi hai nc y l u i nht. (4)
n chng. 1. Hong Hu chi bo (Nh Nguyn); 2. Hong Hu chi bo (Nh Thanh); 3.
Chiu Hin vng hu chi bo (Nh Triu Tin).
1. (Trung) Minh Thi t thc lc - Q.37 - Mc ngy Nhm Thn, thng 12, Hng V nguyn nin. Nguyn
vn:
2. (Vit) c Trai di tp - Q.6 - D phc ch. Tr.31. Nguyn vn:
3. (Trung) Minh Thi t thc lc - Q.47 - Mc ngy Nhm Tut, mng 1, thng 12, nm th 2 nin hiu Hng
V. Nguyn vn:
4. (Trung) Chn trch tp - Quyn 11 - Tng ty M Lng qun s An Nam t. Nguyn vn:
[]
Tuy nhin, quan h Vit - Minh ch tri qua mt giai on mt ngt
ngn ngi, bi triu nh i Vit d sao vn mang tm thi ca mt
155
quc gia t ch, khng mun chu s chi phi ca triu nh Trung Hoa.
Bt k nhng bin c lin tip din ra trong ni b cung nh, hay s
x xt thng xuyn vi Chim Thnh phng Nam, mi vic u do
triu nh i Vit t gii quyt, khng cp bo v cng khng nghe
theo li dy bo ca thin triu. iu ny c cho l s thiu chn
thnh trong vic th nc ln, v cng l nguyn nhn chnh gy rn
nt trong mi quan h Vit - Minh. Trong nhng chiu sc vua Minh
Thi T ban cho vua nh Trn v sau, thng xuyn c li nhc nh: cc
cng phm ch l by t tm lng thi, nu lng th nc ln mi mi
bn chc, th u cn cng vt thnh son(1) [] Vt khng cn nhiu, ct
lng thnh.(2) Tuy nhin, v vic t hnh x v thng xuyn thc
c chi ti ca nh Trn khin vua Minh Thi T
hon ton nh mt nim tin mt phin bang
vn c nh gi ngang hng vi Triu Tin
lng thnh thn phc. Nm 1372, vua Minh Thi
t tc kh ni: Gian manh lo xc, sinh s gy
him khch, la di Trung Quc [] T nay An
Nam triu cng, ch c nhn.(3) Thm ch vua
Minh cn nh ngha: An Nam [] bn trong
ly s di tr lm u, khng c lng thnh ca
mt nc nh th nc ln, l nc sinh s.(4)
D rng vua Minh Thi T lit tn nc
Vit vo trong mi lm nc bt chinh chi
quc, dn con chu mun i khng c ng
ao binh, song mi nguy ngi v mt cuc chin
tn khc vn khin T Chng Tc hu Trn
Nguyn n phi khuyn vua Trn Ngh Tng Vua Minh Thi t v Minh
Thnh t.
knh nc Minh nh cha, yu Chim Thnh nh
1. (Trung) Minh Thi t vn tp - Q.2 - D An Nam quc vng chiu: .,
2. (Trung) Minh Thi t vn tp - Q.8 - Mnh Trung th hi An Nam cng vn:
3. (Trung) Minh thc lc - Thi t thc lc - Q.47 - Mc ngy Bnh Thn, thng 6, nm th 4 nin hiu Hng
V. Nguyn vn: []
4. (Trung) Minh Thi t vn tp - Q.6 - Mnh Trung th d ch An Nam hnh nhn sc. Nguyn vn:
 con, nh vy th nc nh v s.(1) Song du xt kha cnh tm l hay thuc Minh, cng vi kip nn nm 1371 gic Chim a vo thnh []
din bin thi cuc by gi, vic knh nh Minh nh knh cha, yu Chim t tri cung in, nh ca. Th tch, s sch do vy sch khng(1), n
156 157
Thnh nh yu con l vic hon ton khng th. Cui cng, nm 1406, thi L s, nhng b sch quan trng ghi chp in chng ch c
vin c ph Trn dit H, Minh Thnh T Chu c qun xm lc th ca cc triu i trc y hu nh mt tch(2).
Vit Nam, song ngay sau khi nh bi cha con h H, ng ta li nhanh Cng chnh bi s mt mt th tch
chng sp nhp nc Vit vo bn Trung Quc, phng danh xng c ny, ngay t thi L s, in chng ch
t qun Giao Ch, ng thi ra lnh binh lnh vo nc y, ngoi tr ca cc triu i L, Trn kh c th
sch kinh v vn in ca o Pht, o Lo khng thiu hy; tt c th k kho tng tn. Vo thi vua L Thi T
tch, vn in cho n nhng loi v tr con qu ma tp vit nh Thng v na u thi vua L Thi Tng, vn ha
i nhn, Khu t d , mt mnh mt ch u phi t ht. Khp trong
(2)
thi L s vn c s tip ni phong cch L
nc y phm nhng ni di tch c bia do Trung Quc dng th gi li, - Trn. Ring quy ch Thng phc ca b
cn cc bia do An Nam dng th ph hy ht, mt ch ch cn.(3) quan nh L vn phng theo ch trang
Nm 1407, Minh Thnh t li ra ch d nhc li vic trn: Nhiu phc c ca thi Trn - H sau ci cch nm
ln ra ch d cc ngi rng: phm An Nam, tt c cc vn khc th 1396. Tuy nhin, quy ch ny ngy cng th
tch cho n tng mnh tng ch ca loi v tr con qu ma tp vit nh hin r tnh cht i khi, thiu s rch ri
Thng i nhn, Khu t d, cng nhng tm bia x y t dng ln, trong vic phn bit phm trt ca vn v Tr em Vit Nam thi Nguyn
tp vit Thng i nhn
h trng thy l hy ngay lp tc, ch st li. Nay nghe ni sch v thu b quan. Nh nm 1434, thng 8, ban cho (K thut ngi An Nam); Giy
c trong qun doanh, khng ra lnh cho binh lnh t ngay, li xem hc tr trong Quc T gim v hc tr cc l tp vit ca tr em thi Thanh
(BTDTDL). Thng i nhn,
xt ri mi t. Trong khi qun lnh phn ng khng bit ch, nu th huyn u c mc quan phc, ng thi Khng t d, ha tam thin, tht
no cng lm nh vy, khi vn chuyn t s mt mt nhiu. T nay, cc li cho gio th Quc T gim, gio chc thp s, nh tiu sinh, bt cu t,
giai tc nhn, kh tri l d.
ngi phi lm ng nh li sc trc, lnh cho qun lnh h thy mi cc l huyn c i m Cao Sn(3); n
th sch v vn t x y l t ngay, ch lu li.(4) Nh vy, sau 20 nm nm 1437, vua Thi Tng li cho cc quan v cng c i m Cao Sn
ging nh quan vn. Theo ch ca nh H trc kia, quan vn t lc
1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
phm tr ln i m Cao Sn, quan v t lc phm tr ln i m Chit
2. (Vit) Sn c tp thut Thng i nhn cho bit: Tr con mi tp vit ch, t vit Thng i nhn, Xung, n y, bt k vn v b quan hay gio th Quc T gim, thm
Khu t d, ha tam thin, tht thp s, nh tiu sinh, bt cu t, giai tc nhn, kh tri l d (Bc i nhn
thi thng c, ch c ngi Khng Khu m thi, ngi gio ha ba nghn , c by mi hc tr gii, nay
ch gio vin cc l, huyn u c i cng mt loi m. S i khi
hc tr nh cc ngi, tm chn a, lm iu nhn, bit l ngha), thin h u nh vy, khng bit bt u trong cch n mc ca b quan chng t ch quan phc ng thi c
t khi no. Nguyn vn: :,,,,,,,
.
nhiu khim khuyt, cn c mt cuc ti thit trn din rng.
3. (Trung) Vit Kiu Th - Q.2. Dn theo Th vn L Trn. Tp 1. Tr.58. Nguyn vn:
,
Bn dch trong sch Th vn L Trn c 1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: []
ch cha c xc ng, t nh cu dch l nhng loi (sch ghi []
chp) ca l dn gian, hay sch dy tr, nh loi sch c cu Thng i nhn, Khu t d. T L tc 2. Sau nhng t thiu hy th tch ca i Vit, 12 nm sau, nm 1418, vua Minh li sai H Thanh, H Th
(l: nh qu; tc: th tc) khng phi loi sch ghi chp ca l dn gian, c th ngi dch hiu nhm sang sang ly cc sch v ghi chp s tch xa nay ca nc ta (Ton th). Cc sch i Vit thng s (Tr.101),
t l ng, l ca. (Bn Vit kiu th in trong T kh ton th tn mc tng th - S b - Q.162 - Tr.695 Loi ch - Vn tch ch (Tr.63), Cng mc (Q.13) u nhn nh: Tng nh Minh, Trng Ph ly ht sch
chp l l tc). v ghi li s tch ca nc ta t thi Trn tr v trc a v Kim Lng. Song trn thc t, bin mc sch
4. Nh trn. Nguyn vn: Vit Nam thi Minh khng xut hin nhng cun sch m Phan Huy Ch, L Qu n nu. Nhiu kh
nng phn ln s sch Trng Ph thu gom b thiu hy.
3. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:

 o m l nhc c coi l vn hin ca mt quc gia phi c t nh
thn trng, v phi c gng ti a gn gi c ch c theo ng
158 159
truyn thng Nho gia. Nguyn Tri v cc triu thn ng tm tn sng
Chu Cng, bc v nhn c Khng T ht li ca ngi v cng lao ti
thit, duy tr ch l nhc c ca nh Chu. Tuy nhin, sau khi du nhp
v c t nh nhiu ln qua cc triu i L - Trn - H, vn hin Nho
gio c nhng nt c sc ring bit ti triu nh Vit Nam. c bit,
t sau ci cch ca H Qu Ly, o m i Vit phn ln c m phng
t quan phc Hn - ng. n thi vua L Thi T, Nguyn Tri c
giao nhim v ti thit o m l nhc, song thnh qu kho cu ca
Thng phc m Sa o bo nh B t. 1. Quan Triu Tin;
2. Quan i Vit triu L; 3. Quan nh Minh. ng th hin vic p dng m Cao Sn cho b quan ngy mt t r s
khim khuyt, khin cui cng ng v cc Nho thn phi t nhn rng:
Song vn do s mt mt s liu, ngay c v nho thn uyn bc nh
vic t nh l nhc phi i c nhiu ngi c thng bit rng, nm
Nguyn Tri cng gp nhiu kh khn trong vic t nh phm phc
r quy ch c mi c th hon thnh. i vi trang phc ca nh Minh
triu nghi. Vn d t thi vua Thi T lnh cho Nguyn Tri t nh
ch quan phc, c l vic cha hon tt nn n khi vua Thi Tng
ln ngi, sau mt lot cc quy nh p dng m Cao Sn thi H cho vn
v b quan, cui cng vua vn mt ln na lnh cho Nguyn Tri cng
Thi gim Lng ng t li ch quan phc. Song n thng 5 nm
1437, Nguyn Tri xin tr li mnh lnh, khng mun tip tc hp tc
cng Lng ng, nguyn nhn chnh l do nhng iu Nguyn Tri
thy u khc vi Lng ng(1) Sau khi vua Thi Tng chp thun li
kin ngh ca Lng ng p dng ch l nhc mi m qu bn l
o thi Nguyn, o thi Minh s k (thi Hng V), o thi
ch o m ca nh Minh, Nguyn Tri cng mt s v triu thn nh Minh hu k. (mingyiguan).
Nguyn Truyn, o Cng Son, Nguyn Vn Huyn, Nguyn Liu dng
ng thi, Nguyn Tri nhn nh Ngi Ng lu ngy nhim thi tc
s ni: Vic ch tc l nhc t phi i c ngi ri sau mi tin hnh,
ca ngi Nguyn, tc xa, rng trng, o ngn m tay o di, m xim
c nh Chu Cng v sau khng c li ch trch. Nay li sai tay hon
le lot, lp lp nh l. Ngi Minh tuy khi phc o m Hn ng xa,
quan Lng ng chuyn trch vic t l nhc, chng l lm nhc nc
nhng thi tc vn khng i(1), ng khng nn noi theo.
sao? V li vic y lm di trn la di, chng da vo u c.(2) Lng
Trong khi , Lng ng l mt vin hon quan phc v trong
ng thanh minh: Thn khng c hc thc, khng bit ch c, nay
cung nh, chc hn trng thy nhiu dng o m l nhc ni cm
nhng vic t nh u da vo nhng iu mt thy m thi.(3)
cung, c cho l ngi c hiu bit cht t, nn c giao nhim v
Xt t gc ca Nguyn Tri, vi nhn quan ca mt nho thn,
hp tc cng Nguyn Tri t nh l nhc. Nu nh gi Lng ng
ch n thun l tay hon quan khng c hc thc, gy ra mi hi to
1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:

2. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
1. (Vit) c Trai di tp - Q.6 - D a ch. Nguyn vn:
3. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
 ln cho vn ha i Vit th khng tha ng. t trong bi cnh triu
nh i Vit va phc hi, sch v th tch nht thi gn nh trng
160
trn, in chng ch khim khuyt, cc Nho thn loay hoay ch
i thm ngi, trong khi ch l nhc ca nh Minh c s k tha
v pht trin t vn ha truyn thng, ring trang phc cung nh c
coi l nh cao ca ngh thut trang phc c i Trung Hoa, c sc nh
hng mnh m ti Triu Tin v Lu Cu, th vic vua L Thi Tng
chp thun kin ngh ca Lng ng, sao phng mt phn quy ch o
m l nhc ca nh Minh p dng vo triu nh i Vit l mt xu th
tt yu. Mt khc, ch o m mi c t nh, du ni th no vn
l sn phm chung ca Lng ng v Nguyn Tri, bi nhiu loi o
m thi Trn - H vn c duy tr s dng n tn thi L Trung Hng
m khng b thay th ton b bng o m kiu Minh. Chnh v vy, trong
bi th chc mng Gin ngh i phu Nguyn c Trai, Phan Phu Tin
vn khng nh cng lao ch tc ra quy ch l nhc mi ca Nguyn
Tri . Quy ch l nhc mi ny k t thng 11 nm 1437 c chnh
(1)
thc p dng trong cc dp Thnh tit, Chnh n, Sc vng, Thng
triu v i yn . (2)
TRANG PHC THI L S (1428-1527)
Trang phc thi L s c th phn thnh ba giai on. Giai on
th nht, t nm 1428 n nm 1437, triu nh L s bo lu mt phn
ch trang phc ca nh Trn - H, th hin vic ln lt quy nh b
quan vn v i m Cao Sn v duy tr cc loi m inh T, T Phng
Bnh nh trong qun i. Giai on th hai, t nm 1437 n nm 1499,
vua L Thi Tng, L Thnh Tng ln lt cho sao phng ch o m
ca nh Minh th hin cc quy ch Cng phc - Phc u v Thng
phc - Sa, c bit l quy ch B t. Giai on th ba, t nm 1499 n
ht thi vua L Chiu Tng, triu nh nh L thc hin cc ci cch trang
phc thng qua quy nh v cht liu o m, hnh dng B t v quy ch
trang sc trn m Phc u.
1. (Vit) c Trai di tp - Q.1 - H Gin ngh i phu Nguyn c Trai. Nguyn vn: .
2. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
Xt v kiu dng v trng hp s dng, trang phc thi L s c ba
im khu bit vi trang phc thi L Trung Hng. Th nht, vo dp i
161
l, cc vua L s mc L phc Cn Min, cc vua L Trung Hng ch mc
Hong bo, i m Xung Thin, vn l Thng phc ca cc vua thi L
s. Th hai, trang phc b quan thi L s c phn lm ba loi trang
phc: Triu phc, Cng phc v Thng phc, cn trang phc L Trung
Hng hp nht quy ch Cng phc v Triu phc, ng thi phn chia
r quy ch trang phc chu vua v trang phc hu cha. Th ba, thi L
Trung Hng triu nh thng xuyn lc c, nn khc vi tnh n nh
ca trang phc thi L s, trang phc Thng triu ca b quan lc ny
thng khng theo quy nh khin triu nh nhiu ln phi quy nh
li phm phc triu nghi. Vy nn ti chng ny, chng ti phn trang
phc thi L lm hai phn: trang phc thi L s (1428-1527) v trang
phc thi L Trung Hng (1533-1789), ch yu phn bit trang phc
ca vua cha, quan li v qun i. Trang phc hu cung v trang phc
dn gian chng ti kt hp vit chung ti phn kho v trang phc L
Trung Hng.
I. TRANG PHC HONG
1. L phc - Triu phc
Sau khi vua L Thi Tng chun y tu
ngh ca Lng ng, t thng 11 nm 1437
triu nh quy nh, ngy Mu Thn l K
Thin Thnh tit, t bui sm, vua yt Thi
Miu, hnh l t bi (bn ly), khi v cung,
L b ty by t nghi trng, l b sn
an Tr, vua mc Triu phc Cn Min, ng
in Hi Anh, i c L Ngn cng
b quan mc Triu phc, lm l dng biu M Min 12 lu ca thin t nh
chc mng. Vua mc Cn Min, b quan Chu, dy honh buc c mu son.
mc Triu phc bt u t y.(1) Theo Phan Huy Ch, Min phc ca
thin t t thi L Trn tr v trc khng th kho c [] Min phc
1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
 ca cc triu i nc ta khng c du tch,
n thi vua L Thi Tng mi ch ra m Min,
162
i sau li khng s dng na. T thi L Trung
Hng v sau, vo cc dp i l, hong ch i
m Xung Thin. Nh vy, quy ch Cn Min
(1)
dnh cho thin t nh L t thi Trung Hng
v sau b ph b. Tuy nhin, cc i vua Nhn
Tng, Thnh Tng, Hin Tng thi L s hn
vn duy tr loi L phc sang trng bc nht
ny, d cch ni ca Phan Huy Ch c phn
mp m, khng minh xc.
Trn thc t, nh H nh ra quy ch
Cn Min, song theo ghi chp ca Loi ch th
l vua nc Nam. Song tri vi mong
ch ca vua quan triu L, vua Minh
163
t u ch cui u khng bng lng
vua nc Vit mc Cn Min. Bi
theo quan nim ca nh Minh, trc
s thn phc thiu chn thnh ca
vua ti nc Vit, vua Vit trn danh
ngha l vng, nhng thc cht l
b ti ca Trung Quc, b coi ngang
hng vi quan nht, nh phm ca
nh Minh. Cch i i nh vy khc
hn tnh cm c bit ca vua Minh
dnh cho vua Triu Tin, khi nm

Cn Min ca vua Triu Tin

nh L s khng k tha c quy ch L phc
Thun Tng. (Trang phc ny ca nh H. Vy nn vic vua L Thi T, L
ca chng ta).
Thi Tng trong i l ln ngi mc loi L phc
no, hin cha th kho c. Sau khi phc quc, L Li ln ngi vua,
c iu do vn thi gian v t liu nn phi n thi vua L Thi Tng,
quy ch Cn Min dnh cho thin t phng Nam mi c t nh.
Ton th ghi nhn, ngy 12 thng 11 nm 1483, vua L Thnh Tng
vo bn tho bi ta cun Thin Nam d h tp ca i hc s Thn
Nhn Trung rng: Vi dt lng chut la/ T ng sc tm bng/ Li tm
tay v ch/ Ct may o Cn long(2). Tm bia i Vit Lam Sn D lng bi
li cho bit trong l cy rung Tch in, vua L Hin Tng mc o Cn,
i m Min c dy hong mu son ( ti Tch in/ Chu hong Cn
Min). Vy th t nht n thi vua Hin Tng, trang phc Cn Min vn
c duy tr lm L phc Triu phc ca vng.
Ngoi ra, trong thi gian tr v ca vua Nhn Tng, Thnh Tng,
Hin Tng, chng ta u thy cc v vua i Vit ny ln lt phi s
thn sang nh Minh xin ban Cn Min, trn thc t nhm hp php
ha quy ch Cn Min v i hi s cng nhn ca vua Minh vi t cch
1. (Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch Quan gia quan phc chi ch. Nguyn vn:
[] . Cc bn dch Vit vn u dch thiu t Cn Min. Tuy nhin, cch ni cm n ban Cn Min ca
2. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: bn sai bn Trung th lang Nguyn nh M sang Minh tu cng, bi t vic ban y phc. (Cng mc.
1403 vua Minh ban cho vua Triu Tin
Cn Min 9 lu 9 chng, nm 1450
i Vit Lam sn D lng bi (Lng vua L
tip tc ban cho Th t Triu Tin
Hin Tng, Lam Kinh, Thanh Ha.
Cn Min 8 lu 7 chng(1). Ti Triu Mc mc Hin Tng, t tp tin cng []
ti Tch in, chu hong Cn Min.
Tin, Cn Min ch c p dng lm
l phc vua mc khi ln ngi, ngy mng mt Tt v khi n s Trung
Quc. Trc khi tr thnh i Hn quc vo nm 1897, Triu Tin
khng t tri mt cch c lp nh Vit Nam.
i chiu ghi chp ca Ton th vi Minh thc lc, Minh s, ta
c bit: thng 10 nm 1441, vua L Nhn tng sai s thn sang nh
Minh tu cng, i thn L Thn ph trch vic xin o m(2); nm
1442, khi s thn nc An Nam L Thn t bit vua Minh, vua Minh
lnh cp trang phc B Bin, o dt vng v ban cho quc vng(3). Nm
1456, vua L Nhn Tng tip tc phi s thn sang nh Minh tu cng
ng thi cm n (xin) ban Cn Min(4). Minh thc lc ghi li s vic
1. (Hn) Quc triu ng l nghi - T l nht. Tr.112, 116.
2. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
3. (Trung) Minh thc lc - Anh Tng thc lc - Q.90. Mc thng 3 nm Chnh Thng th 7. Nguyn vn:
4. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
s quan nh L khin s thn nh Nguyn hiu lm, cho rng by gi s Minh n ban Cn Min, (vua)
Q.18. Nguyn vn: )
 ny cho bit: Quc vng An Nam L Tun (ch vua L Nhn Tng) tu: i Cu v vua Triu Tin cng u c nh Minh ban tng loi L phc B
n triu nh phong cho tc vng, thn vng mnh ca triu nh Bin, ring vua Lu Cu cn s dng B Bin lm Triu phc. Tuy nhin,
164 165
hn mi nm. Ci mong ban cho thn Cn Min, ging nh l ca quc qua t liu vn t v tranh tng thi L hin cn, chng ta khng thy
vng Triu Tin. Vua khng cho.(1) Vic sai s sang Minh xin Cn Min cc v vua thi L s s dng loi L phc do vua Minh ban tng. Kt hp
vn tip tc c thc hin vo thi vua Thnh Tng v vua Hin Tng. nhng thng tin trn vi ghi chp ca Ton th v i Vit Lam Sn D
Thng 12 nm 1462, vua L Thnh Tng sai s thn sang nh Minh tu lng bi, nhiu kh nng cc vua Nhn Tng, Thnh Tng, Hin Tng vn
cng ng thi xin ban cho o m , ln ny, vua Minh ban cho Quc
(2)
s dng trang phc Cn Min, k tha quy ch ca vua L Thi Tng. C
vng An Nam L Ho mt b trang phc B Bin, mt b thng phc iu xut pht t tm l khng thua Trung Quc, cc vua L s vn lun
bng l , m Sa, ai sng t (trang phc quan vn nh phm theo nh quy ch ca quan tm n in chng ch ca nh Minh. Nh nm 1502, Ng s
nh Minh - TQ ch) mi th mt chic. Bi Ho sai bi thn xin trang phc Quch Hu Nghim ln mua mt chic o Long Cn, l hng cm ca
Cn Min, vua khng cho nn ban nh vy.(3) Minh s ghi nhn: Ho nh Minh, nhn khi i s.(1) Vic lm ty tri ny khng th no xut
sai s sang cng, nhn tin xin trang phc Cn Min, vua khng cho, ch pht t bn ca Quch Hu Nghim m chc chn c s sai khin ngm
ban trang phc B Bin, m Sa, ai sng t [] Nm Hong Tr th 10, ca vua L Hin Tng. y cn ni thm rng, thi k u nh Minh ch
Ho cht [] con l Huy k v [] sai s sang co ph [] Vua ban cho c mt loi o Long Cn, xt t kiu dng n trang sc, phn ln tun
Huy trang phc B Bin, ai sng t dt vng. S thn An Nam ni, quc theo ch c thi Hn - ng; tuy nhin sau ny, nh Minh hp
ch c phong vng, trang phc c ban tng khng khc g trang nht Long Cn vi Long Bo, ch ra loi o Cn hon ton mi. Chng ti
phc ca b ti, xin ban cho trang phc khc. Quan b L ni: An Nam ng rng, chic o Long Cn m Ng s Quch Hu Nghim ln mua v
trn danh ngha l vng, thc cht l b ti ca Trung Quc. Vua k v i Vit chnh l loi Long Cn tn ch ca vua Minh.
mi lp, t phi ban cho trang phc B Bin, khin cho khng mt s
tn nghim lm cha t mt nc; li ban cho Thng phc nht phm,
khng qun ci ngha b ti th Trung Quc. Nay xin nh vy l lm
lon quy ch ca triu nh, khng th chp thun c. Song nhng li
ny khng phi l ti ca s thn, m l li tu lo lu ca k thng s,
phi trng tr. Song vua c bit tha cho.(4)
Nh vy, sau nhiu ln xin trang phc Cn Min, nh Minh ch ban
tng vua L trang phc B Bin, mt loi L phc ca vua, hong t, thn
vng nh Minh s dng trong nhng dp l nh. ng thi, vua Lu
1.Triu Tin Th Tng mc Long bo; 2.Cung Hin vng L Trinh nh Minh mc Cn Min theo
quy ch c; 3.Hng Hin triu Minh mc Long Cn kiu mi; 4. Lu Cu Thng Trinh vng
1. (Trung) Minh thc lc - Anh Tng thc lc - Q.279. Mc thng 6 nm Thin Thun nguyn nin. Nguyn mc trang phc B Bin.
vn: :"",
2. Thng phc
2. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
3. (Trung) Minh thc lc - Hin Tng thc lc - Q.3. Mc nm Thin Thun th 6. Nguyn vn: a. Xung Thin
Theo s t nh ca L b ty ng gim Lng ng, t nm 1437,
4. (Trung) Minh s - Q.321 - An Nam truyn. Nguyn vn: ,,,
[](),[][][]

1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:

 mng mt, ngy rm vua mc Hong bo, i m Xung Thin, ngi ln
Bo ta, b quan u mc Cng phc Phc u. Vo cc bui Thng
166 167
triu, hong mc Hong bo, i m Xung Thin ngi ln Kim i,
b quan mc Thng phc o c trn, m Sa.(1). Vo thi k ny, khi
nim Cng phc c s phn bit vi khi nim Thng phc. i vi
cc v vua thi L s, bt k ngy rm, mng mt hay cc bui Thng
triu, cc ng u i m Xung Thin, mc Hong bo.

M Dc Thin ca vua Triu Tin; M Xung Thin Vit Nam (th ti nh

Nht L, H Ni. C vt Thng Long H Ni); M Dc Thin ca vua
Minh (Bo tng C cung Bc Kinh).

Phan Huy Ch nh ngha m Xung Thin tc m Phc u, ring

hai cnh chun hng ln trn, nn gi l Xung Thin.(2) Theo quy ch
ca nh Minh v Triu Tin, loi m Thng triu ca vua l m Dc
Thin, cng c hai cnh chun hng ln tri, song hu ht l nhng
chic m trn, khng c trang sc. Ring vua Minh ngoi m trn cn
c loi m c sc trang sc hnh rng vng, hoa vng, bc sn vng.
Qua kho st mt s pho tng v m th c kiu dng Xung Thin, ch 1. M th ti nh Ni X, ng Ha; 2. M Xung Thin (K thut ca ngi An Nam); 3.
yu l sn phm th k XVIII, XIX, c th nhn thy tuyt i a s cc M th ti nh an Phng, H Ni; 4. M th thi L Trnh (Trang phc triu L Trnh);
5. M th thi Nguyn (Bo tng Lch s Vit Nam); 6. Vua L Thnh Tng (cha Huy
loi m ny u c nh v s trang sc v c dng thc tng t nh
Vn. H Ni); 7. Vua Triu Tin Thi T; 8. Vua Minh Nhn Tng; 9. Vua L Thn Tng
nhau. M th thng c xu hng phc ha, khoa trng nn khng th (Cha Mt. iu khc c Vit Nam); 10. Vua Triu Tin Anh T; 11. Vua Minh Thn Tng.
coi l loi m t thc. Song chng ti cho rng vic sc trang sc vng
bc ln m dng nh tr thnh truyn thng ca cc triu i Vit
nam, nn nhiu kh nng loi m Xung Thin ca cc v vua thi L s b. Hong bo
cng c nh mt s trang sc bng vng nht nh. Ch Nam ngc m nh ngha: Hong bo Tng t mt phong m
vng. on lnh, o chu nh ang.(1) o bo dng khi thit triu i
1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:

2. (Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch Quan gia quan phc chi ch. Nguyn vn:
1. (Vit) Ch Nam ngc m gii ngha. Tr.118.
 a s l loi o on lnh, (cn c tn bo, Giao bo Triu phc ca cc quan t, ng phm triu Nguyn. i
vin lnh, c king ), thng tay, bn
(1)
chiu hoa vn rng thi L s, rng thi L - Trn v hoa vn rng Trung
168 169
trong mc lt o giao lnh. Tri qua cc Quc u thi Minh, c th thy rng Vit Nam thi L s vn k tha v
triu i L, Trn, L, Nguyn, dng o pht trin t kiu dng rng L - Trn, ng thi cng chu s nh hng
ny hu nh khng b thay i v kiu nht nh t kiu dng rng ca Trung Quc u thi Minh.
cch. Bo phc ca cc triu i ch
yu c phn bit kiu dng hoa vn
Hoa vn rng thi L s (Bo tng v b cc hoa vn sc trn o.
Lch s Vit Nam)

Ton th v Loi ch u ghi nhn

vo thi L s, khc vi b quan, trang
phc ca vua khng phn bit Cng phc
hay Thng phc, vo cc bui Thng
triu ngy mng 5, 10, 20, 25 cho n
ngy rm v mng mt, vua L u i
m Xung Thin, mc Hong bo. Cho
n nay, ngnh kho c mi ch pht hin
c hin vt Long bo (Hong bo) ca
vua L D Tng, tuy nhin dng thc v
b cc hoa vn thu trn nhng tm Long
bo ny mang nng nh hng kiu cch
Bo phc ca Trung Quc giai on cui
Minh u Thanh, c l c t nh sau
khi Tham tng Nguyn Cng Hng i s Phc dng m Xung Thin v Hong bo thi L s (Tranh: TQ).

nh Thanh nm 1720. V vy khng th coi

Long bo ca vua L D Tng l loi Long
bo tiu biu ca triu L. Chng ti cho
rng, vo thi L s, Long bo ca vua L
vn l dng Long bo thu hoa vn rng
hai vai v vng bng. Kiu cch ny
chng ta vn c th thy qua tng Yn
Qun cng cha S, tranh chn dung t
Thi t Kin Trung hu Trnh nh Kin
thi L Trung Hng v dng thc Hoa
II. TRANG PHC B QUAN
Nm 1429, sau khi thng nht t nc, vua L Thi T c ban
cho cc chc quan v t thng tng tc tr t tr ln, quan vn t
nhp ni i hnh khin tc quan phc hu tr ln u c mc o
bo .(1) y cng chnh l phng thc ban thng T Ph cc vua
L - Trn vn thng p dng khen thng cng thn. Tuy nhin,
Tng Yn qun cng cha S (C theo quy ch thi Trn - H, ch c cc quan nh phm mi c mc
vt Thng Long H Ni); T Thi t
Trnh nh Kin (nh th h Trnh o bo , vy nn nm 1437, vua L Thi Tng cho rng cc quan tam
ti Thnh Cng, H Ni).

1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:

1. (Vit) Nht dng thng m. Nguyn vn:
 phm mc o mu khng hp vi
ch c, mun h lnh i thnh
170
o mu xanh. i t m L St ni:
Tin gy nn dng nghip, mun
mng mt v ngy rm, ch trang phc m Phc u kt hp vi Bo
phc (phm cp c phn bit bi mu sc o bo). Thng phc l trang phc mc
171
vo nhng bui Thng triu ngy 5, 10, 20, 25, ch trang phc m Sa
kt hp vi o bo c trn nh B t (phm cp c phn bit hnh thu trn

phn bit tn ti biu dng cng vung vi nh trc ngc v sau lng). Tuy nhin, t nm 1500 tr v sau, khi
thn, ch y nh, h nn thay nim Cng phc li c hp nht vi khi nim Triu phc.
i? Vua L Thi Tng nh nghe Tuy Ton th nhiu ln cp n Triu phc dnh cho b quan
theo. (1)
Trong nhng nm 1434 n nh L s sau khi p dng ch quan phc ca nh Minh, song khng
1437, triu nh L s ln lt quy h ng ti quy ch c th ca Lng quan Chu phc. C iu, trong
nh b quan vn v nht lot i m Thp gii c hn quc ng vn, vua L Thnh Tng nhc n m iu
Cao Sn. n gia nm 1437, vua L Thin qua cu th: C k i iu Thin nhn mt, c ngi vn Gii
Thi Tng lnh cho Nguyn Tri v Tri ngang ngang v trong V trung ty bt, Phm nh H cng cp
Lng ng t nh li ch quan ti chic m Gii Tri ca thn ph mnh, ng thi h l cho chng ta
phc. K t y, mt phn quy ch o bit vo thi L Trung Hng, kiu dng m Gii Tri khc vi m Phc
m ca nh Minh c p dng vo u (m Gii Tri triu Nguyn l m Phc u nh thm hai chic sng nh trn trang sc Bc
triu nh i Vit, lm tin cho sn). C liu ny khin chng ti ng rng, c th vo triu L s, quy ch
1. Rng thi L (Hong thnh); 2. Rng
thi Tng (Cm t vn chng); 3. Rng nhng t sao phng Minh ch din Lng quan (vi ba loi m Tin Hin, iu Thin, Gii Tri) c ti
thi L s (Bn rp ha tit m thut c ra di thi vua L Thnh Tng v cc du nhp lm Triu phc ca b quan nh L, trc ci cch nm 1500
Vit Nam); 4. Rng thi Minh s trn Long
bo ca vua Minh Thnh t; 5. Rng thi triu vua L, Nguyn v sau. thi vua L Hin Tng. Ring m Gii Tri vi kiu dng Lng quan vn
L s (Bo tng Lch s); 6. Rng thi Theo quy ch mi: L c i c duy tr n cui thi L Trung Hng.
Minh s trn Mng bo ca Vng Ngao.
triu v Thng triu. Nh l t Giao, 1. Cng phc - Triu phc
Co miu, Thnh tit, mng mt Tt Nguyn n th p dng l i a. Phc u
triu, hong mc Cn Min, ln ngi ngai bu, b quan u mc Triu Nh chng ti cp ti phn kho v trang phc b quan nh
phc; cn nh mng mt v ngy rm th hong mc Hong bo, i L, nm 1059 l thi im m Phc u c chnh thc p dng lm
m Xung Thin, ln ngi Bo ta, b quan u mc Cng phc Phc u. Thng phc cho b quan i Vit. Quy ch ny tip tc c p dng
Thng triu hong mc Hong bo, i m Xung Thin, ln ngi Kim vo u thi Trn, b ph b vo nm 1300 sau ci cch trang phc
i, b quan u mc Thng phc o c trn, m Sa [] (2)
Thng triu ca vua Trn Anh Tng. Vo thi thuc Minh, nh Minh
Theo quy ch ny, Triu phc c quy nh l loi trang phc mc quy nh quan li v sinh vin Vit Nam nht lot s dng m Phc u
trong l t Giao, Co miu, Thnh tit, mng mt Tt Nguyn n, ch c cnh chun di phng. Sau khi phc quc, triu nh i Vit di
trang phc Lng Quan kt hp vi Chu phc, vn l quy ch c t thi thi vua L Thi T v na u thi vua L Thi Tng p dng m
Tng, b ph b vo thi Nguyn. Cng phc l trang phc mc vo ngy Cao Sn ca nh Trn H lm trang phc Thng triu, phi n nm
1437, sau tu ngh ca Thi gim Lng ng, m Phc u mi quay
1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: tr li lm Cng phc ca b quan.

2. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: Nm 1499, quy ch m Phc u ca b quan nh L c quy
nh: Cng phc Phc u ca cc tc cng, hu, b, ph m v quan
[][]
vn v t tam phm tr ln dng cnh chun bng sa en, hi di v
 to hn m ca cc quan vn v khc, u dng ai tc hng vin thau bc
khng c dng trang sc Dng on thm.(1)
172 173
ng, khng c chp hai cnh Kt hp s liu vi t liu nh
li. B quan (t tam phm tr xung) tng thi L Trung Hng, c th suy
vn theo kiu c.(1)
Ngha l t nm on rng, sau ci cch quan phc nm
1437 n nm 1499, b quan nh L 1500, m Phc u chu nh hng
u i m Phc u c cnh chun kiu dng ca m Sa. Cnh chun
thun nh, t nm 1499 tr i, cnh m Phc u lc ny tr nn trn tra
M Phc u dng vung v m Sa dng chun trn m Phc u ca cc v ngn hn trc. Tuy nhin, hai dng
trn ca nh Minh (Khng ph). tc cng, hu, b, ph m v cc m Triu phc v Thng phc ny vn
M Phc u v m Sa quan nht, nh, tam phm mi c c s phn bit r rng, ch yu nm
iu chnh cho di v to bn hn. hai im: 1. m Phc u lm bng sa
T nguyn mu m Phc u dng vung
vi hai cnh chun thun di, nh Minh ch Bn cnh , trong triu xut hin en nh trang sc, m Sa cng lm
ra loi m Sa dng trn vi hai cnh chun nhiu trng hp t dng trang bng sa en song ch l m trn; 2. cnh
trn ngn. M Sa c dng lm Thng
phc, s dng trong nhng bui Thng sc Dng ng nh ln m. chun m Phc u thun nh, cnh
triu; m Phc u c dng lm Cng Nm 1500, thi vua L Hin chun m Sa to ngn.
phc, s dng vo ngy rm v mng mt.
Tng, triu nh nh ra quy ch o b. Bo phc
m mi cho b quan . Lc ny, m Phc u c s dng lm Cng
(2)
Trc nm 1500, m Phc u M Sa trong tranh chn dung
phc kim Triu phc, ng thi c quy nh: Cc v hong thn c p dng lm Cng phc, kt hp Nguyn Tri (BTLSVN); M Phc
u trn tng Thi gim Trnh
v cc quan vn v t tam phm tr ln, m Triu phc dng m Phc vi o bo trn. Phm trt ca b quan
ng ng (M Vn, Hng Yn);
u, hong thn trang sc vng, vn v trang sc bc, phc sc mu c phn bit da trn sc o tng M Phc u ca quan V v quan
ta. B t th hong thn v cc vng cng dng K ln, quan vn nht, t quy ch thi L, Trn, H. Nm 1437, Vn triu Nguyn (BAVH.1916).
Vo thi Nguyn, m Phc u
nh phm dng Tin hc, quan v dng S t, quan vn tam phm dng vua L Thnh Tng cho du nhp ch
trn cn c gi l m Sa.
Cm k, quan v tam phm dng Bch trch. ai th dng ai sng t, B t ca nh Minh, p dng lm trang
hong thn sc vng, vn v nht, nh phm sc bc, tam phm sc i phc Thng triu cho b quan. n thng 6 nm 1466, vua quy nh
mi bc l . T phm n ng phm, quan v dng nn bc, quan phc sc cho vn v b quan, lc ny cc quan t nht phm n tam
vn dng Phc u khng trang sc, phc sc mu lc. B t th quan phm mc o mu , t phm - ng phm mc o mu lc, cn li
v t phm dng H, quan vn dng Khng tc, quan v ng phm u mc o mu xanh(2). T nm 1500 tr i, m Phc u c quy
dng Bo, quan vn dng Vn nhn. ai th quan vn v u dng ai nh lm Triu phc, kt hp vi o bo c trn nh B t, thng gi
i mi sc thau bc l . T lc phm tr xung, quan v i nn son, l B phc.
quan vn i Phc u khng trang sc, phc sc mu xanh. B t th
quan v dng Tng, quan vn dng Bch nhn. ai th quan vn v 1. (Vit) L triu hi in. Dn theo sch Cng mc. Nguyn vn:


1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:

2. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
2. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: ,
 QUY CH TRIU PHC CA B QUAN I VIT NM 1500
(theo Cng mc)
174 175
Hong thn i m Phc u sc vng, ai sng t sc vng, B t K
ln, phc sc mu ta.

Phm Quan Vn Quan V

cp
M ai B t Phc M ai B t Phc
sc sc
Nht Phc ai Tin Phc ai S t
phm u sng t hc u sng t
sc sc bc sc sc bc
bc bc
Nh Phc ai Tin Phc ai S t
phm u sng t hc u sng t
sc sc bc sc sc bc
bc bc
Quan vn v quan v An Nam v trong Yn hnh lc
Tam Phc ai i Cm Phc ai i Bch
ca s thn Triu Tin.
phm u mi sc k u mi sc trch
sc bc bc sc bc bc
bc l bc l
BNG SO SNH QUY CH PHC SC CA B QUAN
T Phc ai i Khng Lc Nn ai i H Lc
NH MINH, TRIU TIN V NH L phm u mi sc tc bc mi sc
trn thau thau
(Theo Minh s, Triu Tin vng triu thc lc v bc l bc l
Ton th)
Ng Phc ai i Vn Lc Nn ai i Bo Lc
phm u mi sc nhn bc mi sc
Nh Minh Nh Nh L
trn thau thau
Triu Tin
T 1429 - 1466 T 1466 v bc l bc l
sau

Nht phm Ta Lc Phc ai tc Bch Xanh Nn ai tc Tng Xanh

phm u hng nhn son hng
Nh phm tr trn vin vin
xung thau thau
Tam phm Xanh
bc bc
T phm Xanh Lc Lc on on
thm thm
Ng phm Xanh Xanh Bic Lc
Lc phm Xanh Xanh Bic Xanh
2. Thng phc
Tht phm Xanh Lc Bic Xanh
a. Sa
Bt phm Lc Lc Xanh Xanh
M Sa l phin bn dng trn ca m Phc u, nh L p dng
Cu phm Lc Lc Xanh Xanh lm trang phc Thng triu cho b quan k t nm 1437. Bc ha chn
dung Nguyn Tri hin lu gi ti Bo tng Lch s Vit Nam, bc ha
 quan An Nam thi L trong Hong Thanh chc cng v bc tranh
quan Ngh v trong Nhng khu truyn gio ca cha Marini u th hin
176
r loi m Sa trn theo quy ch ca nh Minh.
Thng 9 nhun nm 1471, vua L Thnh Tng chnh thc p dng quy
ch Thng phc B t ca nh Minh. Thng 10 nm 1488, vua tip tc
177
t ra quy nh v kch c o bo Thng phc v Triu phc dnh cho
b quan, theo quy ch mi, o di cch t 2 tc (khong 8cm), ng tay
o rng 1 thc 3 tc (khong 50cm).(1)

1. Quan Lu Cu (Tranh Ogoe thi xa xa); 2. Chn dung Nguyn Tri, quan thi L s Vit Nam
(Bo tng Lch s Vit Nam); 3. Chn dung T Quang Khi, quan nh Minh Trung Quc; 4. Chn
dung Trng Mt Tn (Jang Mal Son) quan Triu Tin (mingyiguan). Trong bi th Tng s thn
Lu Cu, Phng Khc Khoan vit: Ni sng phong vc tuy khc bit, o m l nhc li ging
nhau (). Cu th khng hn l so ng, m phn nh kh
chn thc cc din l nhc o m tng ng gia cc nc Vit - Minh - Triu Tin - Lu Cu
khong th k XVI n th k XVIII.

Ngy 26 thng 5 nm 1486,

vua L Thnh Tng quy nh, k t
nay, vn v b quan vo chu i Quan li An Nam mc Thng phc (nm 1751) qua 3 d bn ca Hong Thanh chc cng . 1.
Bn dn theo Yn Hnh lc (Hn Quc). 2. Bn dn theo Hong Thanh chc cng , k hiu
m Sa, hai cnh nn nht lot hi
16. 22421 th vin trng i hc Waseda (Nht Bn). 3. Bn dn theo Tp ch T Cm Thnh k
hng v pha trc, khng c t 131 thng 4.2005 (Trung Quc).
cnh chun phng hoc lch.(1)
Loi m Sa c hai cnh un cong B t (B: v; B t: ming v): ch vung vi thu hnh chim
v pha trc cng chnh l quy ch M Sa ca quan Triu Tin (Bo tng mung kt hp vi c cy, hoa l, my nc v.v. nh trc ngc v
Folklore Seoul. nh: TQ).
m Thng phc ca b quan Triu sau lng o bo, dng phn bit phm cp ca b quan. Quy ch ny
Tin cng thi. manh nha t thi Nguyn v hon b vo thi vua Minh Thi T. B t
b. B phc ca quan vn thu hnh chim, B t ca quan v thu hnh th. V l
T nm 1437 n nm 1471, Thng phc ca b quan nh L l m vung vi nh trc ngc v sau lng, B t vn c tn Hung bi
Sa trn kt hp vi o bo on lnh trn tng t b quan Triu Tin hoc Hoa dng . Thut ng Hung bi c s dng ph bin ti
trc nm 1454 tnh t thi im p dng quy ch B t (sm hn Vit Triu Tin v Trung Quc trc thi Gia Tnh. T cui thi Minh, thut
Nam mi by nm). Quy nh v phc sc Thng phc Sa tng t ng ny b thay th bi cch gi B t. Qua li d vo thng 9 nm 1471,
phc sc Cng phc Phc u: nht phm n tam phm mc o mu ta thy vua L Thnh Tng cng tng dng t Hung bi ch B t.
, t phm - ng phm mc o mu lc, cn li u mc o mu xanh. Chng t tn gi Hung bi l tn gi sm nht, c s dng c Vit
Nam ln Trung Quc v Triu Tin.

1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:

1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
 Ton Th cho bit: Thng 9 nhun nm 1471, vua L Thnh Tng bc quan li. Tuy nhin, do s thiu
t nh quy ch y phc B t. Vua ra ch d ni: Triu nh l ni l khuyt s liu, hin chng ta cha
178 179
nhc, y phc l v im t Nc ta v yn Khu H , theo l vn xa,
(1)
th bit quy ch B t nm 1471 quy
quan phc trn di, vn thu chim, v v th, t xa c ch nh c th th no. i chiu quy
Nay quan vin b tnh cc ngi, hy nghe li trm, Hung bi trn quan ch B t ca nh Minh v quy ch
phc ca vn v b quan nht nht phi noi theo quy ch nh. Ni B t nm 1500 thi vua L Hin
trong trm ngy, ai khng theo quy nh, s ging cp tr ti! Ma ng Tng, c th thy s phn bit Hoa
thng 10, vua ban cc kiu Hoa dng B t, u l cc hnh cm th mu dng B t ca nh L khng k
sc. Cc tc cng, hu, b, ph m u thu mt con; Cc chc quan vn lng nh quy ch ca nh Minh.
v, chnh phm thu mt con, tng phm thu hai con; ng s v ng Song, chiu theo quy ch Triu phc
thng quan thu mt con, phn ty thu hai con. Cc hnh my nc, nm 1500, c th thy triu nh
sng ni, cy hoa, nhiu hay t, tha hay rm u cho ty ch tc, khng vua L Hin Tng cho dng hnh
cu n. Cc kiu mu sc vng, , trng, bic, lc u cho c ty nghi. tng voi lm B t cho cc quan v
Th bi ng ca Th Ging vin Triu
Khi thu cng khng bt buc tt c u dng kim tuyn; nh hoa vn t lc phm tr xung. y chnh l
Tin. (Bo tng C cung Quc lp Seoul).
my nc, sng ni, cm th thu kim tuyn cng c.(2) mt s Vit ha trong quy ch B
t, ch c i Vit triu L.
V cht liu o bo, Cng mc cho bit, cc quan t nht, nh
phm tr ln dng cc hng gm vc thu hoa; t tam phm n ng
phm dng gm vc; t lc phm tr xung dng gai, lnh. Mnh ph
theo phm trt ca chng. Gim sinh, nho sinh, hc sinh, sinh , li
in, con chu quan vin u dng lnh, l. Dn gian u dng lnh, l,
vi, la.(1) C iu, trang phc ca b quan vo mi ma khc nhau li
c quy nh khc nhau, nh t thng 10 tr i, mc o l t gai, t
thng 2 v sau, mi mc o the, nu gp ngy ma gi, mc o bng the
hp thi tit.(2)
Ngoi ra, bn cnh mt s quy ch o m phng theo ch nh
B t Bo ca quan v Tam phm nc Triu Tin, Hn Quc (Bo tng C Cung Quc
lp Seoul. nh: TQ). Minh, cc quy ch cn li ca nh L vn noi theo ch c ca thi Trn
- H. Trong khi nh Minh ph b quy ch Ng i vo thi vua Minh Thi
Sau li d ca vua L Thnh Tng, triu nh chc hn ban b T, i Vit thng s cho bit nm 1460, L Nim vn c ban Kim Ng
mt quy ch B t, quy nh c th hnh chim mung ng vi tng cp i. T nm 1460 tr v sau, chng ti khng thy s liu no tip tc
cp n loi phc sc ny. Nh vy c kh nng quy ch Ng i ti thi
1. Khu H tc Hoa H, Trung H. Vua L Thnh Tng dng t ny ch Vit Nam.
2. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: []
[] 1. (Vit) Cng mc. Nguyn vn:
[]

2. (Vit) Ton th. Mc thng 9 nm 1499. Nguyn vn:

 vua L Thnh Tng mi b ph b ti triu nh i Vit. Thay vo , nm Tht phm Kh xch Bu Tin hc Tng
1467, vua L Thnh Tng quy nh cc quan vo triu tham u eo th
Bt phm Hong ly T ngu Tin hc Tng 181
180 bi.(1) y cng l quy ch chung ca nh Minh v Triu Tin.
Cu phm Am thun Hi m Tin hc Tng
V nhp lu Luyn thc

Giy Tch : Mt trong

nhng ni dung ci cch Thng
phc nm 1396 ca nh Trn -
H l vic quy nh b quan t
lc phm tr ln nht lot i giy
Tch. Mc d tm nm sau, nm
1404, H Hn Thng li h lnh
ph b loi giy ny, song giy
B t K ln. 1. Ha tit K ln thi L Trung Hng (Bn rp ha tit M thut c Vit Nam); 2.
B t Vit Nam (Silken threads-A History of Embroidery in China, Korea, Japan and Vietnam); 3. Tch vn tn ti v c duy tr
B t thi Minh (Cm t vn chng); 4. B t Triu Tin (Bo tng C cung quc lp Seoul. nh: vo thi L s. i Vit thng s
TQ); 5. B t thi Thanh (Thanh s thng in lc).
m t inh Lit ung dung i giy
Tch .(1) Phc Vng Tranh (con
Nguyn Tri i giy Tch. (Bo tng
th su ca vua Thnh Tng) tng c
SO SNH QUY CH B T CA NH MINH NM 1391 Lch s Vit Nam).
vua Hin Tng ban cho vi vc
V QUY CH B T CA NH L NM 1500
v giy Tch trng (2)
v.v. Giy Tch ti Trung Quc thng dng
(theo Minh s v Cng mc)
trong t l v triu hi, cng tc l L phc. Loi giy ny c hai
lp , lp trn lm bng gai hoc da, lp di lm bng g,
Nh Minh Nh L
khi t l nu gp tri ma cng khng b t(3). Loi giy th
Cc tc cng, hu, b, ph m B t ca hong thn v
thu hnh K ln, Bch trch vng cng thu hnh K ln hin trong bc ph iu Ng th gia bi v bc tranh chn dung
Phm cp Quan vn Quan v Quan vn Quan v Nguyn Tri chnh l giy Tch.

Nht phm Tin hc S t Tin hc S t

1. L Qu n ton tp. Tp 3. i Vit thng s. Tr.170.
Nh phm Cm k S t Tin hc S t 2. L Qu n ton tp. Tp 3. i Vit thng s. Tr.150.
3. Trung Quc y quan phc sc i t in. Tr.288.
Tam phm Khng tc H bo Cm k Bch trch
T phm Vn nhn H bo Khng tc H
Ng phm Bch nhn Hng bi Vn nhn Bo
III. TRANG PHC QUN I
Lc phm L t Bu Tin hc Tng S gia thi L Trung Hng cho bit, loi m T Phng Bnh nh
n i bn triu khi ngha vn cn dng, i sau cng noi theo, chng
t trang phc qun i thi L s vn k tha qun trang thi Trn - H.
1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
 T sau nm 1437, cng vi ci cch trang phc ca hong v b quan, lc s, v qun Thin V, Thnh Uy u gn cnh phng bng vng,
trang phc qun i triu L cng xut hin mt s quy ch o m, Gip mt vt trang sc ta cnh chim gn hai bn tai m, phng theo loi
182 183
Tr mi. m Phng X (cnh phng) c t thi ng v thnh hnh vo thi
Nm 1469 v nm 1470, vua L Thnh Tng h lnh cm dn gian Minh ti Trung Quc. Vo thi vua Tng Dc, tng xy ra v vic
ch to v bun bn cc loi nn dng trong qun i nh nn mu lc s H B phi chu ti cht v b hai cnh phng vng giu i d
trng ng (phn bch sc lp), nn da (b lp), nn Thy ma, nn sn trc ng git gic lp cng(1). Ngoi ra, loi cnh phng bng
son (chu tt lp), trong nn Thy ma, nn sn son l ca thn qun vng dnh ring cho v qun Thin V v Thnh Uy cn c qut ra
tc trc bo v cm cung (tc v) . Nh vy vo thi L s, nn l loi
(1)
ngoi mt lp sn , gi l kim hng phng x, chng ta hin cn c
qun trang c s dng kh rng ri, tng t din mo qun trang th thy s hin din ca loi cnh phng ny qua tranh Kim Cng
thi Nguyn v sau. c nin i th k XVIII.
Theo quy ch nm 1500 thi vua L Hin Tng, quan v t, ng
phm i nn bc, quan v lc phm tr xung i nn son. Nm 1509,
vua Uy Mc ly Nguyn Tng lm Phi v ty phi V lc s ni s tc
trc cung oan Khang i m bc, cnh phng bng vng, ui hng
mao nh lc s tc trc in Kim Quang; ly Nguyn Cng Lun lm
Phi v ty Phi v lc s ni s, i m Thy ngn,
ui hng mao. t chc ng tng gim v
ng m gim. Ng tng i ao ni s i m
Thy ngn, hoa qu vng. Ng m i m Thy
ngn, hoa qu .(2) Nm 1510, vua Tng
Dc ln ngi, h chiu t hai v qun Thin
V v Thnh Uy, chc trn v Cm y v Kim
ng, kiu m dng m son c cnh phng Tranh Kim Cng thi L Trung Hng (Tranh c Vit Nam); M
Phng x (Tam ti hi); Ph iu ti m Phng Huy cui thi
bng vng. (3)
Theo ghi chp trn, v s, v s,
ng (mingyiguan).
lc s cc v cm qun u i m bc, c
th c nhng trang sc nh ng lng , hoa
qu vng, hoa qu gn trn trn v tai m.
Tng thi L s mc Gip Ph kho
Tr (Bo tng M thut).
Ring kiu m ca lc s v Phi v ty Phi v
TRANG PHC NH MC (1527-1592)

1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:

1470 Vi s cai tr ca cc ng vua qu L Uy Mc v vua ln L
2. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: Tng Dc, nh L s sp sau 100 nm tr v. Thng 6 nm 1527,

,
3. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
. Kim phng x, kim hng phng x c dch l cnh m thu phng vng, cnh nm 1. (Vit) Ton th. Nm 1511. Nguyn vn:
vng, thu phng , u khng chnh xc.
 quyn thn Mc ng in l thi Hng c.(1) Da vo t liu
Dung ph trut v vua cui tranh tng hin cn, i chiu vi ghi
184 185
cng ca triu L s, t nhn ca Ton th, c th thy ch
xng hong . Triu nh o m ca b quan nh Mc v c bn
nh Mc chnh thc tri vn noi theo ch quan phc c xc
nm i vua, tng cng lp t thi L Thnh Tng. Ring trang
66 nm. Trong , qung phc ca vua Mc th hin trn cc pho
thi gian tr v ca vua Thi tng th c kh nhiu im c bit
T Mc ng Dung, Thi cn lu .
Tng Mc ng Doanh c S thn nh Minh ng ti chnh in, ngi ng i Qua kho st mt s pho tng
th coi l thi k nh thnh din c ch ct ch Ngy vng Mc ng Dung. th vua Mc ti cha Tr Phng, cha
(An Nam lai uy sch).
ca nh Mc. in chng, Phc Hi, cha Trung Hnh, cha Hoa
ch ca nh Mc v c bn c thit lp trong giai on ny. Niu, cha Nhn Trai, cha An Hng
Hnh tng Mc ng Dung khi n
Ngay sau khi ln ngi, Mc ng Dung cn s lng ngi tng ti Hi Phng(2), cha Ngo ti Phc Th v khi tin s Minh. (An Nam lai uy
nh nh L xa m sinh bin, nn phm vic g cng tun th theo - H Ni, cha V Cng ti Bc Ninh, sch).
ch triu L. (1)
Song khi tha hng thi bnh, ng cho rng ch c th thy cc pho tng vua Mc nhn
nc nh hoang ph, lng lo, mun sa sang chn chnh li, nn chung mang hai kiu m o ph bin sau:
mnh cho bn Nguyn Quc Hin kho xt v t nh ch qun 1. M hnh tr, nh bng, mt trc m chm ni ch Vng
binh, ch rung t, ch bng lc [] i khi u phng theo , ring tng cha Phc Hi, cha Phc Linh v cha V Cng,
pha trn m cn c min bn. Cc pho tng ny u mc o on
lnh c trn, pha trong mc lt o giao lnh, t c tr xung tht mt
di phc sc tng t nh t tt chng ln ba lp, bung di xung
chn. y c th l L phc ca vua nh Mc.
2. M dng ng, tng t m Thng Thin vi nhng np gp
thng, c nh cc ht ngc chu, ti v tr trn m c trang sc
hnh chim dang cnh trong t th bay chc u thay v trang sc Bc
sn (Tam sn) nh tng cha Trnh Sm cha Kim Lin, H Ni.
Loi m dng ng nh trang sc ch Vng v hnh chim bay chc
u u l cc loi m c trng ca tng thi Mc. Ring trang sc
chim dang cnh chc u nh trn trn m ht sc gn gi vi loi
m Ht Quan ca quan v nh Hn - ng (Khang Hy t in cho bit:
Tng hong thn nh Mc th ti cha Dim, Vn An, Bc Ninh (nh: TQ); Tng vua Mc
Ht l loi chim ging chim tr [] nu b xm phm, s lao thng vo chin u,
ng Dung th ti cha Tr Phng (Hi Phng); Tng vua Mc th ti cha Ngo (Phc Th).
(nh: Nguyn Th Dung).

1. (Vit) Cng mc - Q.27. Tr.18-19. Nguyn vn:

[].
1. (Vit) Cng mc - Q.27. Tr.16. Nguyn vn: . 2. Xin xem Tng c Vit Nam vi truyn thng iu khc dn tc. Tr.258.
 du cht chng t. Hu Hn D phc ch vit: Qun H Bn u i Ht quan(1)),
d tnh ti thi im hin nay chng ti vn cha th khng nh
186 c mi quan h ny(2). Ngoi ra, cc pho tng cha Tr Phng,
cha Ngo, cha V Cng u mc o bo c trn vi B t hnh rng.
Ring hnh tng Mc ng Dung th hin trong An Nam lai uy
sch li mc o giao lnh tng t trang phc ca cha Trnh Sm th
ti cha Kim Lin. C kh nng, y ln lt l Triu phc v Thng
phc ca cc v vua Mc.
Do s hn ch v mt t liu, ti phn ny chng ti ch c th kho
trang phc ca cc v vua Mc. Trang phc hu phi do c nhng c
im tng t trang phc thi L Trung Hng nn chng ti kho chung
ti phn kho trang phc L Trung Hng.

Cc pho tng quan v i m Ht Quan thi ng. 1. Tng nh Lng, lng m ca

ng Trung Tng L Hin (Nm 710); 2-3. Bo tng C cung Bc Kinh.

1. (Trung) Khang Hy t in. Mc ch Ht. Nguyn vn: []

[]
2. Cn lu thm rng, Mc ng Dung vn xut thn t lc s, c sung vo qun tc v i vua L
Uy Mc. C l y l si dy lin h duy nht hin c ni kt gia chic m ca cc vua nh Mc vi m Ht
Quan ca v quan nh Hn - ng.
 Ph lc

QUY CH TRIU PHC CA B QUAN

NH L TRUNG HNG NM 1661
(theo L triu thin chnh in l v
L triu chiu lnh thin chnh, k hiu A.257)

Chc tc Chu vua

M o B t ai, Thao
Hong t, vng t Dng Ta K ln ai k
c phong quc cng ng thch (
qu) bc
vng
Hong t, vng t Phc Ta Tam thi: ai bc
Hong phong chc tam thi, u K ln; vng
tam thiu gia phong Tam thiu:
t, qun cng Bch trch
Hong t, vng t Phc S t ai t gic
phong t hu c u bc bc 357
vng gia phong qun cng
t Hong t, vng t Phc S t ai t gic
phong c ng u bc bc
tri, c kim s gia
phong qun cng
Hong t, vng t Nn S t Dy thao
phong hiu im, sn kp, xu
c, tham c, lnh bc, ngc, cm
gia phong qun cng nh kim
hng
mao
Hong t, vng t Sa H Dy thao
phong qun cng kp, xu
ngc
Hong t, vng t Lng o
cha c phong Cn the
en en
 Nht phm Phc S t ai sng
Bt phm v cc chc Phc Xanh Tiu liu ai sng
u t bt bc
ng tri ph hm tht u en tru bc
Tng nht phm Phc S t ai sng phm; tri huyn, tri thau
Quan
u t bt bc chu hm tng tht
phm, t ban, hun
v Chnh nh phm, tng Phc S t ai i o hm cu phm
nh phm gia phong u mi
qun cng Cu phm Phc Xanh Tiu liu ai sng
u en tru bc
Chnh nh phm, tng Nn Tng Dy thao thau
nh phm gia phong bc n, eo
tc hu nh kim
hng QUY CH TRIU PHC CA B QUAN
mao
NH L TRUNG HNG NM 1721
Tam phm, t phm Nn Tng Dy thao
gia phong tc hu sn n, eo (theo Loi ch)
son kim
nh
Chu vua
hng
mao Chc tc M o B t ai, Thao
Ng, lc, tht phm Nn Dy thao Hong t, vng t Phc Ta Tam thi: -ai nh
sn n, eo Hong lm cc chc tam u K ln; k thch
son kim thi, tam thiu m Tam thiu: bt vng
nh t, c tc qun cng Bch trch. -Hia, bt
358 hng Thu bng tt 359
mao kim tuyn
Quan Nht phm Phc Ta Tin hc ai sng Cc chc tam thi, Phc -Tam thi: -ai nh
u t bc bc tam thiu c tc u Bch trch; sng t bt
vng
vn qun cng Tam thiu: bc
Nh phm; quan Phc Tin hc ai sng
t, S t -Hia, bt
ng s hm chnh tam u Ng s: t bc bc
tt
phm Gii tri
Hong t, vng t Phc S t -ai nh
Tam phm Phc Cm k ai i quan lm cc chc t hu u sng t bt
u mi
c m c tc bc
v qun cng
T phm; quan th c Phc Khng tc ai i -Hia, bt
kim ng s hm u Ng s: mi tt
ng phm Gii tri
Cc chc t hu Phc S t -ai nh
Ng phm; quan th Phc Khng tc ai i c m c tc u sng t bt
th, th ch hm lc u hnh, mi qun cng bc
phm; quan hnh, Ng s: Gii -Hia, bt
ng s hm tht phm tri tt

Lc phm v lc khoa Phc Xanh Vn nhn ai k lam Hong t, vng Phc S t -ai nh
cp s trung hm u hng t lm cc chc u sng t bt
chnh tht phm c ng tri, c bc
thim s m c tc -Hia, bt
Tht phm Phc Xanh Bch hc ai tc qun cng tt
u hng
 Cc chc l, trn Nn o trc -Dy thao
in qun tng sn son, lnh, n.
qun, lc s hiu y, chp mu -Chc trn
thin h, qun lnh, nh in cm
ph l, chnh hng kim v
Cc chc c Phc S t -ai nh y, ph thin mao di ng.
ng tri, c u i mi h, trung y, lang -Cn li
thim s m c tc bt bc tng, ph qun cm roi v
qun cng -Hia, bt lnh, bch h, kim
tt ht, ph trung y,
Hong t, vng Nn o trc S t -Dy thao ph lang tng, ph
t lm cc chc chp lnh, lt kp xu qun lnh, t hu
hiu kim, c, bc, ton ht ngc tin hu lang tng,
lnh, tham c, nh thn, -eo y, chnh v y,
v s m c tc hng mu gm ph ht, t hu
qun cng mao tin hu ph lang
tng, ph v y, v
hiu kim, Nn o trc H bo -Dy thao y, ph y, ph
c, lnh, tham chp lnh, lt kp trung y
c, v s m c bc, ton - eo
tc qun cng nh thn, gm Cai i, ph cai i, M o -Cm
hng mu chnh i trng, Thanh Thanh gm
mao ph i trng Ct Ct
d trng coi qun khng
Hong t, vng t Sa, c o trc H bo -Dy thao lnh m cha c lt
c tc qun cng ch en lnh, kp xu chc tc
t ni mu ht ngc
360 -eo Cc chc lm vic Khi c l Biu (trc khi dng l mng ln 361
gm ngoi nh tng vua cha, chn ngy lm l dng biu), l Bi
binh s, tng binh (nhng ngy l chnh n, l sinh nht ca
Cc chc cai qun, Sa o trc Tng -Dy thao ng tri, tng binh vua cha, cc nha mn c lm l bi vng)
cai i c tc qun lnh, kp thim s
cng mu - eo Phc C Tng -ai nh
gm u tc: g k lam
o ; hng bt
Cc chc hiu Nn o trc Tng -Dy thao cha thau.
im, c, tham chp lnh, lt Thu bng n. c -Hia, tt
c, ph c, bc, ton t - eo tc: bng l
lnh th v, t hu nh thn, gm o
hiu im m c hng mu xanh,
tc hu mao lc
Cc chc ch huy Nn sn o trc Tng -Dy thao Quan Tam thi, tam thiu Phc Ta Tin hc -ai nh
s, ch huy ng son lnh, n. eo u sng t bt
tri, ch huy thim mu gm bc.
s, ch huy s, ch Hia, bt tt
huy ng tri, ch vn
huy thim s, tng Thng th, ng s Gii Tri -Thng - ai nh
tri, ng tng tri, th: Tin sng t bt
thim tng tri m c hc. Ng bc.
tc hu s: Gii tri Hia, bt tt
T hu th lang Phc Sa k - ai nh
u i mi
bt bc.
Hia, bt tt
 Cc chc tha ch, Phc -C Khng - ai nh Cc chc tu son, -Phc Dng Thun ai nh
ph ng s, tha u. tc: tc. i mi gio th, hc chnh, u mu am. (Liu sng tru
chnh s, i hc . bt bc. cp mn s, ng xanh thun) bt thau.
s, t tu, th c, -Ng s: -Cha -Ng s: Hia, bt tt tri ph, t v, chiu mu Hia, bt tt
thim Gii Tri c Gii tri gim, in th, tr en
tc: trung, thng phn,
xanh, lc s, in th, i
lc. chiu, gim b, t
thin gim tha,
Cc chc t khanh, Phc Nh Khng -ai nh t mc hu mc,
tham chnh, ph u. - trn tc. - g k lam cp mn ph s,
don, hc s, t hnh: hnh: Gii hng bt tri huyn, tri chu,
nghip, th ging, Gii Tri tri thau. huyn tha, ng
th th, hiu th, Hia, bt tt quan chnh, chnh
khoa, th ch, t, ng tri chu,
hnh quan, in b, t
ban, hun o
Cc chc cp s, -Cp s: Nh -Cp s: ai nh
hin s Phc trn Vn nhn. g k lam Cc thi y vin i -Phc -o Thun ai nh
u. -Hin s: hng. s, vin s, ng y, u mu am (Liu sng tru
-Hin Gii tri Hia, bt tt nghim bin, lng xanh, thun) bt thau.
s: Gii y chnh, khn chn, mu -Hia, bt
Tri lng y ph, thi en tt
quan th chnh,
Cc chc hn lm -Hn Nh Hn lm: ai nh ng vn nh nhc
362 hiu l, hiu tho, lm: trn Bch nhn. g k lam 363
th chnh, tha d
gim st ng s cc Phc Cai o: hng. cc cc chnh, gio
o u. Gii Tri Hia, bt tt phng ty chnh, t
-Cai o: thn lang
Gii Tri
Cc chc trng Sa n o
Cc chc thng -Thng th y phc cng nh Hn lm hiu s, bnh s, thng dng Thanh
chnh s, thim s, l. Nu thng chnh s c d bng vng th y s, chnh ph t Ct c
kinh lch phc nh t khanh v khoa ngh, ph hiu y, lt
Cc chc thng -Phc Dng Anh v -ai nh th c, ging d, v
chnh s, tham u. mu (vt) sng tru y, tri b, s, tri
ngh, lang trung, -Ring xanh, bt thau. s, in s, ch b,
thiu thim s, hin hin mu -Hia, bt x mc, ngc tha,
ph, thiu khanh, ph: lc tt cc hng thuc vin
thiu don, trung Gii Tri tp lu
th x nhn, t Nhng ngi tn Phc -C Vn nhn ai nh
thin lnh, ph tht thc th cc u tc: i mi
on s, vin ngoi chc lng chnh, mu bt bc.
lang, thng chnh lng ph, lng tha ; -Hia, bt
tha, tri ph v cha tt
nhng chc t tc
khanh, thiu khanh mu
lm vic ngoi xanh,
lc
 Ni Cc chc ni gim, Phc Mu H bo ai nh Nh Phc ai Tin Phc ai Bch
tng thi gim, u i mi phm u sng t hc u sng trch
quan thi gim, chng bt bc. sc sc bc sc t sc
gim m c tc -Hia, bt bc bc lnh bc bc
qun cng tt l bc
lnh
Cc chc thi gim, Phc C Vn nhn -ai nh l
thim thi gim, u tc: i mi
tham chng gim, mu bt thau. Tam Phc ai i Cm Phc ai S t
tham tri gim, ng ; -Hia, bt phm u mi sc k u i
tri gim cha tt sc bc sc mi
tc: bc bc sc
mu bc
lc
T Phc ai i Khng Lc Nn Tht H Lc
Cc chc t hu Phc C Bch nhn -ai nh phm u mi sc tc bc di
thi gim, t hu u tc: g k lam sc thau ai
gim tha, t hu mu hng bt ng bc mu
im ; thau. -Hia, thau on ta
cha bt tt thm
tc:
mu Ng Phc ai i Vn Lc Nn Tht Bo Lc
xanh, phm u mi sc nhn bc di
lc, sc thau ai
en ng bc mu
thau on ta
Cc chc phng Sa o thm
364 ng, gim b Thanh 365
Ct Lc Phc ai tc Bch Xanh Nn Tht Tng Xanh
c lt, phm u hng nhn son di
khng tr sc vin ai
ph xung ng thau mu
hu thau bc xanh
on
thm
QUY CH TRIU PHC CA B QUAN Php quan i m Gii Tri, B t Gii tri
NH L TRUNG HNG NM 1725
(theo Cng mc) QUY CH TH PHC CHU CHA CA B QUAN
NH L TRUNG HNG NM 1721
Phm Quan vn Quan v (theo Loi ch)
cp
M ai B t Phc M ai B t Phc
sc sc Chu cha
Nht Phc ai Tin Phc ai Bch Chc tc M o ai, Thao
phm u sng t hc u sng trch
sc sc bc sc t sc Hong t, vng t Sa, c o Thanh Ct, Dy thao kp
bc bc lnh bc bc lm cc chc tam thi, ch en t c ph hu xu ht ngc v
l bc tam thiu m c tc ni sc bc
lnh qun cng
l
 Cc chc tam thi, Sa o Thanh Ct Dy thao kp Cc chc l, trn M Thanh o Thanh Ct
Hong tam thiu c tc qun c ph hu xu ht ngc v in qun tng qun, Ct c lt
cng sc bc lc s hiu y, thin
t, h, qun lnh, ph
Hong t, vng t Sa, c o Thanh Ct Dy thao kp l, chnh y, ph
lm cc chc t hu ch en t c ph hu xu ht ngc v thin h, trung y,
vng c m c tc qun ni sc bc lang tng, ph qun
cng lnh, bch h, ht,
t, ph trung y, ph lang
Sa o Thanh Ct Dy thao kp tng, ph qun lnh,
Cc chc t hu c c ph hu xu ht ngc v t hu tin hu lang
m c tc qun cng sc bc tng, y, chnh
quan
Hong t, vng t Sa, c o Thanh Ct Dy thao kp v y, ph ht, t
v lm cc chc c ch en t c ph hu xu ht ngc v hu tin hu ph lang
ng tri, c thim ni sc bc tng, ph v y, v
s m c tc qun y, ph y, ph
cng trung y

Cc chc c ng Sa o Thanh Ct Dy thao kp Cai i, ph cai i, M Thanh o Thanh Ct Cm gm

tri, c thim s m c ph hu xu ht ngc v chnh i trng, ph Ct khng lt
c tc qun cng sc bc i trng d trng
coi qun lnh m cha
Hong t, vng t Sa, c o Thanh Ct -Dy thao kp c chc tc
lm cc chc hiu ch en t c ph hu xu ht ngc.
kim, c, lnh, ni -Cm gm Cc chc lm vic Sa o Thanh Ct Dy thao kp
tham c, v s m ngoi nh tng c ph hu
c tc qun cng binh s, tng binh
366 ng tri, tng binh 367
Cc chc hiu kim, Sa o Thanh Ct -Dy thao kp. thim s
c, lnh, tham -Cm gm
c, v s m c Quan Sa o Thanh Ct Dy thao kp
tc qun cng c ph hu xu ht ngc v
Tam thi, tam thiu sc bc
Sa, c o trc lnh, -Dy thao kp
Hong t, vng t c ch en t mu , B t xu ht ngc. vn Sa o Thanh Ct Dy thao kp
tc qun cng ni h bo -eo gm c ph hu xu ht ngc v
Thng th, ng s sc bc
Cc chc cai qun, cai Sa o Thanh Ct -Dy thao kp.
i c tc qun cng c ph hu -Cm gm Sa o Thanh Ct Dy thao kp
T hu th lang c ph hu xu ht ngc
Cc chc hiu im, Sa o Thanh Ct -Dy thao n.
c, tham c, ph c lt, khng -Cm gm Cc chc tha ch, ph Sa o Thanh Ct Dy thao kp
c, lnh th v, t c ph hu ng s, tha chnh c ph hu xu ht ngc
hu hiu im m c s, i hc s, t tu,
tc hu. th c, thim

Cc chc ch huy s, Sa o Thanh Ct -Dy thao n. Cc chc t khanh, Sa o Thanh Ct Dy thao kp

ch huy ng tri, c lt -Cm gm tham chnh, ph don, c ph hu
ch huy thim s, ch hc s, t nghip, th
huy s, ch huy ng ging, th th, hiu
tri, ch huy thim s, th, khoa, th ch,
tng tri, ng tng tri, hnh
thim tng tri m c Cc chc cp s, hin Sa o Thanh Ct Dy thao kp
tc hu s c ph hu
 Cc chc trng s, Sa n o Thanh Ct
bnh s, thng s, dng c lt
chnh ph t nghi,
Cc chc hn lm hiu Sa o Thanh Ct Dy thao kp ph hiu y, th c,
l, hiu tho, gim st c ph hu ging d, v y, tri b,
ng s cc o s, tri s, in s,
ch b, x mc, ngc
-Thng th y phc cng nh hn lm hiu l. tha, v cc hng
Cc chc thng chnh -Nu thng chnh s c d bng vng th y phc thuc vin tp lu
s, thim s, kinh lch nh t khanh v khoa
Ni Nhng ngi tn tht Sa o Thanh Ct Dy thao kp
Cc chc thng chnh Sa o Thanh Ct Dy thao n thc th cc chc lng c ph hu xu ht ngc
s, tham ngh, lang c lt, khng chnh, lng ph, lng
trung, thiu thim s, c ph hu tha
hin ph, thiu khanh, quan
thiu don, trung Cc chc ni gim, Sa o Thanh Ct Dy thao kp
th x nhn, t thin tng thi gim, thi c ph hu xu ht ngc
lnh, ph on s, gim, chng gim m
vin ngoi lang, thng c tc qun cng
chnh tha, tri ph v
Cc chc thi gim, Sa o Thanh Ct Dy thao kp
nhng chc t khanh,
thim thi gim, tham c ph hu
thiu khanh lm vic
chng gim, tham tri
ngoi
gim, ng tri gim
Cc chc tu son, gio Sa o Thanh Ct Dy thao n
Cc chc t hu thi Sa o Thanh Ct Dy thao n
th, hc chnh, cp c lt
gim, t hu gim c lt, khng
mn s, ng tri ph,
368 tha, t hu im c ph hu
t v, chiu gim, in 369
th, tr trung, thng Sa o Thanh Ct
phn, lc s, in th, Cc chc phng ng, c lt, khng
i chiu, gim b, gim b c ph hu
t thin gim tha,
t mc hu mc, cp
mn ph s, tri huyn,
tri chu, huyn tha, Chc tc o m
ng quan chnh, chnh Cc chc x nhn, n li, -Khi chu hu lm vic th dng m Sa n
t, ng tri chu, tng thn li, lnh s, ni dng, o Thanh Ct c lt, khng c ph hu
quan, in b, t ban, th t th t cai ty, cai hp, th
hun o hp tr ln, th ni vn chc
Cc thi y vin i s, Sa o Thanh Ct th t nho sinh trng thc,
vin s, ng y, nghim c lt gim sinh tr ln
bin, lng y chnh, Trung th snh, cc chc -Khi chu hu lm vic th dng m Thanh Ct,
khn chn, lng y hoa vn hc sinh, n li, x o Thanh Ct khng lt
ph, thi quan th nhn, tng thn li, lnh s,
chnh, ng vn nh th t, ni th t; cc vn - trong lng th cho dng m Sa, o Thanh
nhc th chnh, tha nha mn th cc chc li, Ct c lt, dy thao n; o mc thng cho
d cc cc chnh, gio li, in li, thng li dng cc th the, l, vi, la
phng ty chnh, t
thn lang Nhng nho sinh trng thc, -Dng m Sa n dng, o Thanh Ct vi o
gim sinh, nho sinh, x chnh, ngn lt, khng c ph hu, dy thao n
x s, x t, sinh , quan
vin t tn, nhiu nam
 Hong t, vng t cha c -Khi vo hu ni cung th dng m Lng
chc tc Cn, o sa en
-Thng phc dng cc th gm vc c hoa
mu
Chnh Phc u -Mng Nh trn Phc u -Nh -Nh
Hong t, vng t t chc t -Khi vo hu dng m Thanh Ct, o Thanh Ct
tng trn, m bo c vung ban vn; ban
hu c, c tc qun cng c ph hu v khng lt.
nht ca quan trn, thng vn;
tr ln -Thng phc dng cc th gm vc c hoa
phm chnh cc mu thu K ai tr
mu.
nht xanh, lc, ln K ln
Hong t, vng t t chc -Khi vo hu dng m Thanh Ct, o Thanh Ct phm nh lam, en
c ng tri c tc qun cng c ph hu v c lt trn. m ty nghi
tr xung ca quan
tng nht -Thng
Con chu cc quan vn v, -Khi vo hu lm vic th con chu quan vn phm 1 thu Tin
c phong m tr ln dng m Sa n dng, con chu quan v kha kiu hc xen
dng m Thanh Ct, u dng o Thanh Ct c vng, 2 hoa, mu
lt ht vng
cao 5
Dn gian th t cc chc sc -Y phc u dng cc th gai, the, vi, la,
phn, cn
tr xung khng c lt
li nh
trn

QUY CH TRIU PHC CA B QUAN Chnh Phc u Nh trn -ai: sc Phc u Nh -Nh
tng trn, 1 ton vng, vung ban vn; ban
NH NGUYN NM 1804 nh kha kiu mt trc thng vn;
(theo Hi in) phm vng, hoa v sau ai thu ai tr
370 vng u tr Bch Bch 371
mt trc hnh Tin trch trch
Phm Ban vn Ban v v sau, hc; cn
trt hai cnh li, tr
M Y, ai, hia, M Y, ai, chun hnh hoa,
thng, tt thng, hia vin bc nn
B t B t vng, sc
giao long
Trn Phc u -Mng -ai: sc Phc u -Nh -Nh
vng
nht trn, 1 bo c ton vng, vung ban vn; ban
phm kha kiu trn, mu mt trc 1 kha thng vn; Chnh Phc u Nh trn ai: sc Phc u Nh Nh
(Tn vng, 2 ta v sau u kiu thu K ai tr tng trn, 1 ton vung ban vn; ban
nhn ht vng tr mt vng, 2 ln K ln tam kha kiu vng, b thng vn
ph cao 6 -Thng hnh rng ht vng phm vng, mt vng thu S
tn phn; thu Tin bn mng; cao 5 hoa vng khng t
nhn ngch hc xen cn li tr phn; cn mt chm tr,
lnh) tng hoa, mu Tin hc, li nh trc v nn
vng, hoa nn quan vn mt sau;
vng hai cnh
mt trc -Hia u chun
v sau, vung vin bc
hai cnh mu en vng
chun
vin bc -Bt tt
vng, sc vin gm
giao long
vng
 Chnh Phc u -Hoa bo ai: mt Phc u -Chnh Nh
Tng trn, 1 c trn i mi, vung t phm: ban
t kha kiu (thu hai vin o Giao vn
Chnh Phc u Nh -ai: mt
phm bc, hoa hoa), di ca ba bo
tng trn, hoa trn, B sng en
vng cc mu ming i (thu
tht bc trc t thu bc bc,
mt trc xanh, lc, mi pha giao
phm sau u L t; nn
v sau, lam, en trc bc long) c
1 bng, tng tht - Bt tt:
hai cnh ty nghi vng, cn trn
hai cnh phm B mu thi
chun li u bc
chun t thu lc
vin bc -Thng: bc, nn -Tng t
vin trn L t nn
vng lm bng phm:
xanh
sa, on; o Hoa
mu bo
-Thng:
xanh, lc (thu
lm bng
ty nghi; hoa) c
sa, on,
nn hoa trn,
mu
trn, mu cc mu
xanh, lc
, thu xanh,
ty nghi;
Khng lc, lam,
phn
tc vin en ty
mu
gm nghi
thi lc
Chnh Phc u -o bo ai: mt Phc u -o bo Nh hai bn
372 tng trn, 1 c trn i mi vung nh ban ban thng
373
ng kha kiu lm bng bc bc, vn ng vn khng
phm bc, hoa sa, on, nn phm, thu hoa
bc nh B B t trn.
mt trc t thu thu Bo
v sau, Vn
hai cnh nhn, -Thng QUY CH TRIU PHC CA B QUAN VN V
chun nn ; thu Bo
vin bc cc mu TRIU NGUYN NM 1845
bc xanh, lc, (theo Hi in)
lam, en
ty nghi
Ban vn Ban v
Chnh Phc u Nh trn, ai: ba Phc u -o bo Nh
tng trn, hoa B t ming vung nh ban ban Quan vn i m Phc u trn, quan v i m Phc u vung,
lc bc thu Bch pha trc vn lc vn thn ai u dng tre thuc (thc sa trc) bc on mu xch v.
phm mt trc nhn mt i phm,
v sau, mi, cn B t M Y, thng, ai, hia, tt M Y, ai,
hai cnh li l sng thu B t thng, hia
chun en, u Hng B t
vin bc bc bc,
bc nn ai -Thng
thu
Hng
 Phc u -o bo mu -ai: tng Phc u Nh quan vn
trn, 1 bc sn c ng, may cng 18 vung nht phm; Phc u -o bo nh -ai: Ming Phc u -Nh Nh
vng, 1 ngch bng on ming ai (Tuy thng thu hnh trn, trang sc chnh nh vung pha vung, quan quan
tng vng Bt ti thu pha trc Hi in K ln nh chnh nh phm, ring trc v trang sc vn vn
cao 4 phn, hnh T linh, sau, phi khng ghi phm, ring dng mu hai ming nh quan tng nh tng
pha ngoi t ng sc gia tri, vung chp c m b trang quan lc hnh qu vn tng phm nh
tr hnh giao vng. di, dt; 2 th, song sc giao long -Thng nh trm hai nh phm -Thng phm
long; 2 kha -Thng mc bc; tranh nh mt cnh quan chnh bn phi thu
gin vng; lm bng sa ming th k XX chun nh phm tri u hnh
pha trc 1 mt, t mu chnh gia cho thy, bc t kim, Bch
hoa vng, 2 hoa xch ng pha trc quy ch 14 ming trch
giao long vng; sc gia vng, v hai m Phc cn li bc
pha sau 2 hoa thu hnh ming hnh u nm bc, b mt
vng; hai cnh Tin hc qu trm 1845 ca khm i
chun vin hai bn quan v mi
bc vng, b phi tri tng t
mt sc giao u khm nh quan Phc u -o bo nh -ai: 18 Phc u -Nh Nh
long bn ngc vng, tr vn, song trn, 1 bc sn quan nh ming u vung, quan quan
bng vng, u hnh hoa, s gia vng, 2 kha phm. Ring bc bc, trang sc vn vn
cnh chun cc ming gim nh gin vng, pha dng mu mt khm nh quan chnh chnh
u sc vng; cn li b quy ch trc pha sau bo lam i mi vn chnh tam tam
2 nh vng, mt khm nm 1804) u c 1 hoa -Thng nh tam phm phm phm
2 nhiu tuyn i mi, vng, 2 giao quan nh -Thng
vng u bc bc long vng, 2 phm, ring thu
cnh chun dng mu hnh S
Phc u trn, -o bo mu ai: 13 Phc u vin bc vng, xch mc, t
374 trang sc nh thin thanh ming pha vung, 2 nh vng, thu hnh 375
chnh cht dng on trc v hai trang 2 nhiu tuyn Cm k
phm, ring Bt ti thu bn phi sc nh vng
ngch tng hnh T linh, tri u bc quan vn
cao 3 phn, t ng sc gia t kim; 5 tng nht Phc u trn, -o bo nh ai: Nh Phc u Nh Nh
tr hnh hoa; vng ming pha phm trang sc nh chnh tam quan chnh vung, quan quan
mt m khng -Thng nh sau bc chnh tam phm, ring tam phm, trang sc vn tng vn
c ngc chu; quan chnh bc; mt ai phm, ring dng mu mt khm nh quan tam tng
u hai cnh nht phm khm i b 2 giao long ngc lam sng Bch vn tng phm; tam
chun khng mi vng -Thng nh hoa tam phm Thng phm
sc vng quan chnh thu S
tam phm t
Phc u -o bo mu -ai: trong Phc u -Nh -Nh
trn, 1 bc sn cam bch, 13 ming vung, quan quan Phc u -o bo dng ai: 13 Phc u Nh Nh
vng; 2 kha dng on pha trc trang sc vn vn trn, 1 bc sn tru thu ming pha vung, quan quan
gin vng; Bt ti thu T v hai bn nh quan chnh chnh bc, 2 kha giao long trc v trang sc vn t vn t
pha trc 1 linh, t ng phi tri vn chnh nh nh gin vng, mu quan hai bn nh quan phm; phm
hoa vng, 2 sc gia vng. c 7 ming nh phm phm phm pha trc v lc, t ng tri phi vn t Thng
giao long vng; -Thng nh nm trong -Thng sau u 1 hoa sc gia vng. bc bc; 5 phm thu
pha sau 2 hoa quan chnh bc t kim, thu vng, hai cnh -Thng ming pha hnh H
vng; hai cnh nht phm 6 ming bc hnh chun vin lm bng sa sau bc
chun vin bc, so le; 5 Bch bc vng, 2 mt, t mu ng; tt c
bc vng, b ming pha trch nh bc, 2 bo lam ng u khm
mt sc giao sau bc bc; nhiu tuyn sc gia vng, sng hoa
long vng; 2 tt c u bc thu hnh (hoa gic)
nh vng, 2 khm i Khng tc
nhiu tuyn mi ln b
vng mt
 QUY CH TRIU PHC CA MT S V HONG T, HONG THN,
TN THT NH NGUYN NM 1845
(theo Hi in)

M Y, thng, B t ai
Phc u trn, -o bo dng -ai: 9 Phc u -Nh Nh
trang sc nh tru thu hoa ming pha vung, quan quan Tn tht Phc u vung, -o bo T linh -ai ming chnh
quan t phm, mu bo lam, trc v trang sc vn t vn t c 1 bc sn vng, 1 mu chn lan lm gia pha trc
nhng cc t ng sc gia hai bn tri nh quan phm phm phong ngch tng vng bng on Bt ti v 2 ming hnh
trang sc ton vng. phi bc vn ng -B t tc thn cao 4 phn tr hnh ng sc gia kim. dt hai bn phi
bng bc -Thng lm bc v ng phm thu vng, giao long, 2 kha gin -Thng lm bng tri, b mt u
bng sa mt, xen k; 3 hnh Bo qun vng, pha trc 1 sa mt mu hoa tr hnh hoa khm
t mu quan ming pha vng hoa vng, 2 giao long xch ng sc gia vng, cn li b
lc ng sc sau bc vng, pha sau 2 hoa kim, thu hnh K mt khm mai i
gia vng ng; tt c vng. Hai cnh chun ln mi, u bc vng
-B t dng u khm vin bc vng, b mt t kim
on mu sng hoa sc giao long vng
xch v, thu vn ngc chu, u
Vn nhn cnh chun u sc
vng, 2 nh vng, 2
Phc u trn, -o bo dng -ai: ming nhiu tuyn vng
pha trc, sau tru bng chnh gia
u c 1 hoa mu ngc pha trc Tn tht Phc u vung, 1 -o bo T linh -ai 13 ming pha
376 bc; hai cnh lam bc bc, c bc sn vng, 1 ngch mu chn lan lm trc v hai bn 377
chun vin -Thng 9 ming phong tc tng vng cao 3 bng on Bt ti phi tri bc vng
bc bc; 2 nh dng sa T cn li bc thn cng, phn tr hnh hoa, 2 ng sc gia kim. t kim, 5 ming
bc, 2 nhiu mu quan ng; tt c quc cng kha gin vng, pha -Thng lm bng pha sau bc bc,
tuyn bc lc. u khm trc 1 hoa vng, 2 sa mt mu hoa b mt u khm
-B t dng sng hoa giao long vng, pha xch ng sc gia mai i mi
on mu sau 2 hoa vng, 2 cnh kim, thu hnh K
xch v, thu chun vin bc vng, ln
hnh Bch 2 giao long vng, 2
nhn nh vng, 2 nhiu
tuyn vng
ng s, ph ng s v cc chc khoa
o chng n vn cp cho m Gii Tri c Tn tht Phc u vung, 1 -o bo T linh ai 13 ming
hai sng bc th (nay) i 2 kha gin vng c bc sn vng, 2 kha mu t n lm pha trc v hai
thnh 2 giao long bng vng v bc phong tc gin vng, pha trc bng on Bt ti bn phi tri c 7
qun cng, 1 hoa vng, 2 giao ng sc gia kim ming bc vng
huyn long vng, pha sau -Thng lm bng t kim, 6 ming
cng 2 hoa vng, 2 cnh sa mt mu hoa bc bc, xen k. 5
chun vin bc vng, xch ng sc gia ming pha sau bc
b mt sc giao long kim, thu Bch bc, b mt u
vng, 2 nh vng, 2 trch khm mai i mi
nhiu tuyn vng
 QUY CH THNG PHC CA B QUAN
NH NGUYN
(theo Hi in)

Tn tht Phc u vung, -o bo T linh ai 18 ming u

Quan vn Quan v Y, thng
c so vi tn tht c mu xch bc bc
phong phong tc qun -Thng lm bng M B t M B t
hng cng, m Phc u sa mt mu mc
cng, vung lc i 1 hoa xch thu S t Trn Vn Cng: Tin hc, H u: K ln -o giao lnh
huyn hu, vng pha sau, mt nht sc ton bng hoa sc ton c trng, lm
hng hu m lc trang sc phm vng, hai di bng vng bng sa, on,
giao long vng thy anh trang mu xanh,
sc kim hoa lc, lam, en
Hong t, Phc u vung, 1 -o Giao bo mu ai 13 ming pha khm ngc ty nghi
thn bc sn bc, 2 kha ging chu lm trc v hai bn chu -Thng nn
vng, tn gin vng, trc sau bng tru ng sc phi tri bc bc. 5 dt vng
tht c 1 hoa vng, hai cnh gia kim. ming pha sau bc
phong k chun vin bc bc, -Thng lm bng ng, b mt u Nht Vn Cng: Tin hc H u K ln Nh trn
ngoi hu, 2 nh bc, 2 nhiu sa mt mu quan khm hoa gic phm sc ton bng
k ni hu, tuyn bc lc thu H. vng
nh hu,
Nh Vn Cng Tin hc H u Bch Nh trn
tr quc
phm trch
khanh
Tam Vn Cng Cm k H u S t Nh trn
Hong t, Phc u vung,1 bc -o Hoa bo mu ai 9 ming pha
phm
378 thn sn bc, 2 kha gin tng lm bng trc v hai bn 379
vng, tn bc, trc sau 1 hoa tru ng sc gia phi tri bc bc T ng Pha: hoa Khng tc Xun Thu H -o giao lnh,
tht c bc, hai cnh chun kim v ng xen k, 3 phm vng mt mu c o
phong vin bc bc, 2 nh -Thng lm bng ming pha sau bc trc v sau, nh mu o,
t quc bc, 2 nhiu tuyn sa T hoa mu ng, b mt u cc trang sc lm bng sa,
khanh, bc quan lc khm hoa gic nh ph nh on; cc mu
phng -B t lm bng t hoa, giao long xanh, lc, lam,
quc v ti , thu Bo u dng bc en cho ty
khanh, tr nghi
quc y, t -Thng nn
quc y
Hong t, Phc u vung, -o bo mu ai 1 ming chnh Ng ng Pha: Vn nhn Xun Thu Bo Nh trn
thn trc sau 1 hoa bc, tng m thu gia pha trc bc phm pha trc 2
vng, tn hai cnh chun vin 2 hoa , lm bng bc, 9 ming cn hoa bc, 2 giao
tht c bc bc, 2 nh bc, on Bt ti li bc ng, b long bc, pha
phong 2 nhiu tuyn bc -Thng lm bng mt u khm hoa sau 1 hoa bc
phng sa T hoa mu gic 2 giao long bc
quc y, quan lc.
tr quc -B t lm bng t Lc ng Pha: Bch nhn Xun Thu Hng Nh trn
lang, t v ty , thu gu phm pha trc 1 (Quan v
quc lang, hoa bc, 2 giao t tht
phng long bc; pha phm tr
quc lang sau 1 hoa bc xung ch
t tng,
khng t
chnh)
 TIU T IN
TRANG PHC VIT NAM

Anh Cn: m ca quan v cha nhp nhn, nho s v n ng thng dn thi

Tht Vn T Ti: L t Tng tht Bu -o nh trn lu triu Nguyn. L Trung Hng, lm bng on mu huyn
phm pha trc 1 (chnh: nn phm i tng: -Thng: lm o b ba: loi o vt ngn khng bu, x hoc sa the, nh phng, trn may cnh hoa
hoa bc, 2 giao , tng: Vn T Ti nn bng sa, on,
long bc, pha nn xanh) nh vn xanh mu xanh, lc gia, ci bng cc, ph bin Nam B. cc my lp m ln nhau, quanh m gp
sau 1 hoa bc chnh tht ty nghi; phn o cht: Xem o (di) nm thn. np, di dy buc ngang trn, bung phn
phm mu thi
o Cu: mt trong nhng loi o trnh tha ra sau gy v hai tai c dim r, gn
lc hai bn
thng khng rt ca gii trung lu, qu tc. Vit Nam, tng t m Bao nh.
thu hoa trn o Cu bn ngoi l da, bn trong l lng, Bnh nh: loi m nh phng ni
Bt Vn T Ti: Kh xch Tng bt Hi m -o giao lnh c lm bng lng co (H Cu) hoc chung. Vo thi L Trung Hng, danh xng
phm pha trc 1 phm i mu gc bng lng chn (iu Cu). Bnh nh c ch loi m t ca vua cha
hoa bc, sau 1 Vn T Ti sa, on; mu
hoa bc nh vn xanh, lc, lam, o (di) nm thn: ch loi o may bng v cc quan. n thi Nguyn, t nm 1816,
chnh bt en cho ty nm kh vi (vt trc hai kh, vt sau hai danh xng ny ch loi m i triu ca cc
phm nghi. kh, thn bn phi di ra mt kh ngn hong t, hong thn c ban tc thn
380 -Thng: Nh
trn na), phn bit vi cc dng o c may vng, qun vng, thn cng, qun cng.
bng bn kh vi nh o t thn, o giao Bnh Thin: 1. tn gi khc ca m
Cu Vn T Ti: Liu thun Tng bu T Nh trn
phm pha trc 1 nn xanh phm i ngu lnh. Min. 2. tn gi khc ca loi m Triu
hoa bc Vn T Ti Bn long: ch hoa vn rng trn (rng ) phc Bnh nh ca hong t, hong thn
nh chnh
thu trn o bo. c ban tc thn vng, qun vng,
cu phm
Bao Cn: m Thng triu ca vng, thn cng, qun cng triu Nguyn. Xem:
Cha Phong Cn: Tuy Cn: o giao lnh
nhp trc sau u trc sau mu gc bng hu tc ngn thi Trn. Min, Bnh nh.
lu sc 1 si bc u sc 1 sa, on; mu Bao nh: m Tin phc ca cc v vn B phc: ch Bo phc gn B t.
si bc xanh, lc, lam, nhn, quan li qu tc thi L Trung Hng, B t: cn gi l Hung bi, ch vung vi
en cho ty
nghi kiu dng trn, nh phng, cao khong thu hnh chim th gn trc ngc v sau
mt thc, lm bng lng ui nga, nn lng o bo, dng phn bit phm cp
cn gi l M v Bao nh. ca b quan. Quy ch trang phc Thng
Bo phc: hay o bo, ch loi trang triu Hung bi - B t nh hnh vo thi
phc mc khi thit triu ca vua quan vua Minh Thi T - Trung Quc, c p
phong kin. dng vo triu nh Vit Nam t nm 1471.
Bt bo: tm dng hoa vn thu trn o Bi: cn gi l thy bi, ch di ngc eo
bo ca vua quan nh Nguyn. hai bn hng, c gn kt bng cc loi
Bt Tin: loi m trang trng ca vn ngc c hnh th khc nhau.

381
 Bn Hoa: loi m Thng phc p dng
cho th v nhn thuc ngch Tng quan
ca nh Trn.
Bc Cn: loi m trang trng ca vn
nhn, nho s v n ng thng dn thi L
Trung Hng, c kiu dng tng t m ni,
song hai bn mang tai c hai di tht, tht
li sau u.
Cch i: ai da ni chung, hnh trn,
trn ai c gn cc ming trang sc hnh
vung, hnh trn hoc hnh qu trm. ai
thng to rng, ch mang tnh trang sc.
Cao Sn: m Thng phc ca cc
quan vn t nht phm n lc phm thi
Trn - H k t sau nm 1396, m Thng
phc ca vn v b quan, gio th Quc T
Gim v gio vin cc l, huyn thi L s
t nm 1434 n nm 1437.
Cn hon: loi trang sc hnh trn c
nh vo hai bn m Ton Hoa thi Trn.
Chit Xung: m Thng phc ca cc
quan v t nht phm n lc phm thi
Trn - H k t sau nm 1396.
Chng: cc hoa vn thu trn L phc
Cn Min, tng trng cho tri t vn vt,
gm Nht (mt tri), Nguyt (mt trng),
Tinh thn (sao), Sn (ni), Long (rng), Hoa
trng (chim tr), Tng di (cc tng miu,
c hnh h v kh), To (rong), Ha (la),
Phn m (go), Ph (ru), Pht (ch ).
C : tn gi ca mt s dng hoa vn
thu trn o bo ca vua quan nh Nguyn.
C king. Xem: on lnh.
Cn: cn gi l Long Cn, hoc Cn
Long y, loi o trong L phc Cn Min,
thng c mu xanh sm hoc mu huyn,
c o giao lnh, thu cc hoa vn Ph, Pht, Cu Long Thng Thin: cn c gi ca Trung Quc nn gi l u Mu.
Sn, Ha Ring o Cn ca vua c l m Cu Long, hoc m Xung Thin, m inh T: cn gi l m Nhc, loi m
thu hoa vn Nht, Nguyt hai vai, Long Triu phc ca hong triu Nguyn, c c kiu dng ch inh nm ngang, trn
hai ng tay o. kiu dng tng t m Xung Thin triu m thng, cong trn dn khi ti nh, vn
Cn Min: tn gi tt ca b L phc o L, ring quy ch trang sc trn m c s ra sau gy. y l loi m Thng phc ca
Cn, m Min, l trang phc dnh ring khc bit. cc quan vn v nh Trn k t nm 1301,
cho vng v vng cng i thn s Dng ng: 1. mt trong nhng dng v l dng m c s dng rng ri trong
dng trong cc dp i l nh t tri t, hoa vn hnh hoa thi Trn, L. 2. m Triu qun i v dn gian thi L Trung Hng.
l ln ngi v.v., vo thi vua L Hin Tng phc ca Ni quan thi Trn, phm trt on lnh: cng gi l vin lnh, nm na
cn c s dng lm L phc khi vua cy ca cc quan c phn bit da vo s gi l o c king, ch loi o c trn, gi
Tch in. B L phc ny b ph b vo hnh ong bm sc trn m. 3. m Triu cc bn vai phi. Vo thi L, Nguyn, o
thi L Trung Hng v c khi phc vo phc ca hong t, vng t c phong on lnh ch c dng trong nhng bui
thi vua Minh Mng triu Nguyn. Vo thi tc quc cng triu L Trung Hng, kiu i triu.
Nguyn, Cn Min ch c s dng trong dng nh m Phc u, duy pha sau cao ng Pha: m Thng phc p dng
dp t Nam Giao. hn, hai cnh chun c khi c nm vng. cho quan vn t, ng, lc phm triu
Cn phc: tn gi chung ca o Cn v a La: cn gi l a La Ni, hay La Ni, Nguyn, l ph pha sau m c ln
tt c phc sc i km nh thng, t tt, u ch cng mt loi vi gai, phn ln c theo hnh sng, gy m nh hai di anh r
i i, cch i, bi, th v.v. mu xanh v . Vo thi L Trung Hng, xung lng.
Cng phc: 1.vn ng ngha vi khi loi m inh T c lm t cht liu vi ng Cn: 1. loi m Tin phc c
nim Thng phc, tc trang phc mc gai ny c gi l m a La. lm bng the en, tng t kiu dng m
vo nhng bui thng triu ngy 5, 10, ai: th phc sc eo ngang lng bn Phc u, ring hai cnh chun c ct lm
20, 25, t th k XV tr v sau ch loi trang ngoi o bo, c gn cc ming trang sc bng ct my, bung ra sau, choi sang
phc vua quan mc vo nhng bui chu hnh trn, hnh qu trm lm bng kim loi hai bn thnh hnh ch Bt . 2. loi m
mng mt v ngy rm. 2. ch loi trang hoc i mi, c x qua hai dy tht Thng phc ca vua v l m Triu phc
phc trang trng ca nho s v dn thng. di ra t nch o, m ly ngi, thng ch ca hong thi t nh Nguyn, m c phn
Cng Thn: loi m Triu phc dnh mang tnh trang sc gy nh cao, chm khum trn chm v
cho cc v vng, hu, minh t thi L - i i: 1. ai tht lng, c hai di to pha trc, choi sang hai bn thnh hnh
Trn, phm trt c phn bit bi s bc bn bung xung di chn, cn gi l ch Bt .
v s trang sc ong bm trn m. thn. 2. di la mu xanh trong Cn phc Gic nh: m Thng phc ca cc v
Cu Long: Xem Cu Long Thng Thin. ca vua quan triu Nguyn; mt u di la c tc cao m khng c chc trong triu
Cu Long ng Cn: cn gi l ng c tht ai da pha trc, sau vng nh Trn - H k t sau nm 1396.
Cn, loi m Thng phc ca hong qua vai, c nh li phn ai sau lng. Gii Tri: m ca php quan cc triu
triu Nguyn, m c phn gy nh cao, Xem: Thn. L, L, Nguyn. Gii tri tng truyn l
chm khum trn chm v pha trc, choi u Mu: cn gi l m Tr, bo v linh th mt sng, bn tnh ngay thng,
sang hai bn thnh hnh ch Bt . Xem: phn u ca binh s khi gio mc, v hnh thng c to hnh tng t k ln.
ng Cn. dng ging chic mu, mt loi ni thi c Ngay t thi Hn, triu nh Trung Quc
382 383
 m phng sng gii tri ch ra loi m
p dng cho cc quan thc thi php lut,
nhm nhn gi nim v lng tri v s
cng bng. Triu nh nh L, L, Nguyn
Vit Nam u p dng m Gii Tri cho cc
v php quan, tuy nhin kiu dng m mo
mi thi mi khc bit, thi L m ny c
kiu dng Lng Quan, cn thi Nguyn c
kiu dng Phc u.
Giao bo: tn loi o bo c thu cc
hnh giao long dng trn thi Nguyn.
Giao lnh: cng gi l trc lnh, trng
lnh, nm na gi l o trng vt, ch loi o
c bt cho trc ngc, nh loi o trng
ca cc nh s chng ta vn thy hin nay.
Gip Minh Quang: loi o gip hon
b vo thi ng vi c trng l hai tm
h tm hnh trn trc ngc v hai ming
trang sc hnh u h gn hai bn vai.
Gip Tr: tn gi chung ca o Gip v
m Tr. Xem: u Mu.
Giy Tch: loi giy c hai lp , lp
trn lm bng gai hoc da, lp di lm
bng g. Giy Tch vn l loi giy thi Hn,
v sau ch cn c s dng vo nhng dp
i l. T nm 1396 n 1404, triu nh
Trn - H quy nh vn v b quan t lc
phm tr ln u c i giy Tch trong
cc bui Thng triu. Vo thi L s, triu
nh nh L vn thng thng giy Tch
cho cng thn.
H u: m Thng phc p dng cho
quan v nht, nh, tam phm triu Nguyn.
H Quan: loi m lm bng st, c hnh
u h, xut hin ti Trung Quc vo thi
Ty ng - Ng i, t thi Tng tr v
sau khng thy na, ti Vit Nam hin ch
thy qua tm ngi c nin i thi Trn.
Hoa bo: tn loi o bo c thu cc
hnh hoa trn thi Nguyn.
Honh: tn gi ca mt loi dy trn
m Min gi m c nh trn u, mt
u dy buc trm ngc ci trn m, sau
vng qua cm vt ln u kia ca trm.
Trm dng c nh bi tc. Vo thi
Nguyn, dy honh c thay th bng dy
thy anh. Xem: Thy anh.
Ht: ming ng (hoc g, tre) hnh ch
nht, cc quan cm tay trong cc bui i
l, thit triu, tnh cht tng t ngc khu.
Xem: Ngc khu.
Hung bi. Xem: B t.
K y: loi o trng c trn cc tay, kt
hp vi thng, c mc lt bn trong L
phc, Triu phc v Thng phc ca vua
quan, qu tc triu Nguyn.
Khn xp: khn vn tc ca n ng
c qun xp np u n, cht theo kiu
ch Nht , hoc ch Nhn gia trn.
Khong nm 1920, 1930, ngi Vit mi ch
ra loi khn khu dn lin nhng vnh np
li, ch vic t chp ln u cho nhanh
chng v thun tin, gi l khn xp.
Kh: mc pha di ca n ng, c ngc, ci bng cc, mc lt bn trong.
khi ch chic qun hai ng, cng c khi ch
dng khn qun quanh eo v i che h b.
Khc Phi: m Thng phc ca quan
ng s i thi Trn - H k t sau nm
1396.
Kim Quan: loi m Triu phc ca
hong t, hong thn c phong tc
qun cng, huyn cng, hng cng, huyn
384
hu v hng hu triu Nguyn, thng kt dy ngc r pha trc v pha sau, gi l
hp vi o bo T linh mu . lu. Xem: Lu.
L phc: ch loi trang phc vua quan Min bn: cn gi l din, vn p hnh
mc vo cc bui cng t, l tit, cng c vung (hoc ch nht) trn m Min.
khi c gi l T phc. M Nhc. Xem: inh T.
Long bo: loi o bo thu hnh rng M Tr. Xem: u Mu.
ca vua cha ni chung. Ngc khu: ming ngc hnh ch nht,
Lng Cn: 1. loi m thi vua L Thnh nhn u, vua v i thn cm tay trong
Tng, c lm bng lng ui nga, tn cc bui i l, tnh cht tng t ht. Xem:
m c ngha l m mt v thng c Ht.
s dng vo ma h. 2. loi m i khi vo Ng i: loi phc sc eo trn ai
chu ca hong t, vng t cha c ca cc quan vn. Trung Quc vo thi
phong tc theo quy ch nm 1661. 3. loi ng, Ng i c dng ph hiu mang
m Th phc chu cha ca cc quan vn hnh con c, ng trong ti, dng nh th
theo quy ch nm 1721. bi ra vo i ni. n thi Tng, Ng
Lng Quan: cn gi l m Tin Hin, i khng cn c ng trong ti m
c cc vin lng trang sc chy dc trn dng vng bc trc tip ch thnh hnh
thn m, s vin lng c dng phn con c eo ai, ch mang tnh trang sc,
bit phm cp ca b quan. t s cao sang vinh hin. Ng i xut hin
Lu: 1. tn gi ca cc chui ngc chu ti Vit Nam mun nht l vo nm 798, b
nh hai u Min bn trn m Min. S ph b vo thi L s.
lu c quy nh da vo thn phn ca Nht Bnh: o Triu phc dnh cho
ngi i m, nh m ca hong c 12 cung tn nht, nh, tam, t giai v l Thng
lu, m ca vng cng c 9 lu. 2. tn ca phc ca hong thi hu, hong hu, cng
loi di tht Bo phc ca vua v hong cha triu Nguyn. y l loi o x c, c
hu triu Nguyn. dng i khm, c o to bn to thnh hnh
M qui: loi o c trn cc tay, m ch nht trc ngc, di c c di vi
buc hai vt o.
Mng bo. Xem: T linh bo. Sa: m dnh cho quan vn, c hai
Mng lan: dng o hp tay, c li thu tng, thn trn, hai cnh chun trn v to
sc tng t nh Mng bo, song chiu di bn. M ny vn c ch ra da trn kiu
vt o v ng tay o u ngn hn Mng dng m Phc u. Xem: Phc u.
bo, c p dng cho mt s v quan v Phong Cn: cn gi l m T Ti, loi
triu Nguyn. m p dng cho quan vn cha nhp lu
Min: cn gi l m Lu Min, m Bnh v l m L phc ca dn gian, kiu dng
Thin, c vn p hnh ch nht, nh cc tng t m Vn T Ti, song khng c
385
trang sc, khng thu hoa, mu en tuyn.
Xem: ng Pha, Vn T Ti.
Phc u: loi m hai tng, tng sau
nh cao hn tng trc, l ni cha bi tc,
gy m nh hai cnh chun nm ngang.
M Phc u thi Tng c dng vung vc.
Nh Minh v sau da theo kiu dng m
Phc u thi Tng ch ra mt dng m
trn, hai cnh chun trn, to bn, gi l m
Sa. M Phc u c du nhp vo Vit
Nam t nm 1059, p dng lm m Thng
phc ca b quan, n thi Trn b ph
b, ti du nhp vo triu L s. n thi
Nguyn, nh Nguyn quy nh m Phc
u vung l loi m dnh cho quan v,
m Phc u trn ( Sa) dnh cho quan
vn. M Phc u ca Vit Nam hu ht
u c gn cc trang sc bng kim loi.
Ph Dung: mt loi m ca vua nh
Trn theo ghi nhn ca L Tc, nhiu kh
nng l m Thng triu, thng c bit
n l m ca o gio, c hnh dng bng
sen, chp vo bi tc.
Ph hu: hai cnh di ra t hai bn sn
o bo theo quy ch ca nh Minh, c p
dng vo triu nh L Trung Hng v triu
Nguyn.
Phng tm khc lnh: dng phc sc
lm bng la trng, hnh trn eo vo
c, chnh gia c mt on la di xung
hnh vung, thng c phi vi L phc
ca vua v cc quan i thn, t nht cn
c s dng n thi Trn. Nh Nguyn
khng s dng loi phc sc ny.
Phng Thng: m Thng phc ca
tn tht thi Trn - H k t sau nm 1396.
Phng bo: o bo thu hnh chim tam sn (ba ngn ni) nh gia trn m. Thng Thin: tn gi khc ca m
phng ca hu phi triu Nguyn ni T tt: vung vi hnh ch nht che pha Quyn Vn vo thi Trn, m Triu Thin
chung. trc h th, mt trong nhng ph kin ca vo thi L, v m Xung Thin vo thi
Phng ng t phc: dng o bo Triu L phc Cn Min. Nguyn. Xem: Quyn Vn, Triu Thin,
phc ca tc hu, minh t thi Trn, trn Thi bo: tn gi chung ca cc loi o Xung Thin.
o thu hoa vn phng c. bo c thu hoa vn sc s. Th: cn gi t th, di tt bng cc
Phng Quan: m Triu phc ca hu Thi C: m Thng phc ca cc quan si t tht sau lng, gm i th, di tt
phi triu Nguyn, ngi th c phn bit vn v chnh tht phm, bt phm, cu kn hnh ch nht, v tiu th, di tt tha,
bi s lng trang sc phng ma rng phm thi Trn - H k t sau nm 1396. nm trn i th.
bay trn m. M c chn hnh phng ma Thanh Ct: 1. loi vi Ct thng c mu Thng: mt dng vy quy, quy ra
rng bay c gi l Cu Phng Quan, c xanh en, ngoi ra cn c nhum thnh ngoi chic qun hai ng, loi trang phc
by hnh gi l Tht Phng Quan cc mu ha minh, vi minh v mu qu. 2. ny ph bin trong dn gian Vit Nam vo
Qun: t ch chung cc loi vy, bao loi o T phc ca vua cha, Thng phc thi L - Trn. n thi Nguyn, thng
gm c thng. Tuy nhin, t cui thi ca quan li, ng thi cng l Tin phc cn c gi l xim, trang phc c quy
Nguyn, khi nim qun c dng ch ca quan dn triu L Trung Hng, s khu nh s dng trong nhng bui l, thit
loi mc pha di, c hai ng chn. bit da trn mu sc o. 3. loi m ca mt triu, p dng i vi vua quan v hong
Xem: Kh, Qun chn. s hng binh lnh cp thp, ca thng dn tc, nhng ngi c danh v v phm trt.
Qun chn: ch loi qun c hai ng triu L Trung Hng, c kiu dng tng t Xem: Xim.
chn phn bit vi loi qun khng y, l m inh T, cng l loi m cc quan i Thng phc: trang phc mc vo
chic vy c cu ca ph n Vit xa kia. khi nc c quc tang. nhng bui Thng triu, cc ngy mng
Quyn Vn: tn gi khc ca m Thng Thao: 1. loi dy tt dng treo vo 5, 10, 20, 25.
Thin, loi m c chp un cong ng v nn (nn quai thao). 2. loi dy tt dng Thy anh: tn gi khc ca dy honh
pha sau, trng nh ng my cun, thn tht lng, c s dng rng ri vo thi L trn m Min dnh cho hong triu
m c cc vin lng c nh cc ht Trung Hng. Nguyn, c lm bng t vng, tht cm,
ngc chu. y l loi m Triu phc ca Thn: tn gi khc ca i i, mt c tua hnh ht bt r xung. Xem: Honh.
vua Tng. Qua ghi chp ca L Tc, cc vua dng ai tht lng, c hai di to bn bung Thy ba: hoa vn sng nc trn o bo
nh Trn cng s dng m Quyn Vn, c xung di chn. triu L - Nguyn.
l khi p dng vo Vit Nam, loi m ny Tht Long ng Cn: loi m Triu Tin phc: trang phc vua quan mc
cng c s dng trong cc bui i triu. phc ca hong thi t triu Nguyn, c vo ngy thng, nhng lc khng phi
Song khai: loi o x vt trc, vt sau, kiu dng tng t m Cu Long ng thit triu.
trang phc thng dng ca binh lnh triu Cn ca hong , song s lng trang sc Tiu kim t phc: dng o bo Triu
Nguyn. trn m c s gia gim. Xem: ng Cn. phc mu ta nm vng ca tc vng
Tam Sn: loi m c nhng mi hnh Thin H i: di la trang sc vt ngang thi Trn.
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University Museum. (record.museum. 1792-1793. John Barrow. Nxb Th Gii. 2008. Villages et villageois au Tonkin: 1915-
kyushu-u.ac.jp) Nhng l khch trong hnh trnh 1920 (Lng v c dn lng ti Bc K:
Tranh Ogoe thi xa xa - Hi ha Lu khm ph Vit Nam. Mario Sica. Nxb Th 1915-1920). Lon Busy. Collections Albert
Cu sng li. Satou Fumihiko. Sakuhinsha. Gii. 2013. Kahn, 1986.
2003. ( Silken Threads: A History of Embroidery X ng Trong nm 1621. Cristophoro
..) in China, Korea, Japan and Vietnam (Ch Borri. Nxb thnh ph HCM. 1998.
Vn quc nhn vt (). Th
vin Nagasaki thuc huyn Nagasaki. (
). The Kyushu University
Museum. (record.museum.kyushu-u.ac.jp)
Vn quc nhn vt thuyt (
). Nishikawa Jyoken .
The Kyushu University Museum. (record.
museum.kyushu-u.ac.jp)
E. T liu phng Ty:
396 397
 NGAN NM AO MU
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Hien nay, tren th trng a xuat hien hang loat cuon sach lam gia sach cua
Nha Nam vi chat lng in thap va nhieu sai loi. Mong quy oc gia hay can
than khi chon mua sach. Moi hanh vi in va buon ban sach lau eu vi pham
phap luat va lam ton hai en quyen li cua tac gia va nha xuat ban.
 275

Chng V. TRANG PHC THI NGUYN

Vai tr ca nh nc v h
t tng chnh tr lun c nhng
tc ng trc tip, mang tnh
chi phi ti ton b i sng
vn ha, x hi. Vn ng trong
cc hnh thi x hi khc nhau,
thc th vn ha lun c s k
tha v bin d. Triu Nguyn,
triu i phong kin qun ch
cui cng trong lch s Vit Cu nh t trc sn Th miu trong Hong
thnh Hu. (nh: TQ)
Nam, nh du s thay i to
ln v mt nhn thc ca ngi Vit sau khi tip xc vn ha Php. Song
trc khi vn ha, t tng Php c dp gy nh hng mnh m ln
i sng ca ngi Vit, di s tr v ca cc v vua Gia Long, Minh
Mng, Thiu Tr, T c, Vit Nam vn l quc gia Nho gio kin quyt
gn gi truyn thng n tn cng. Lc ny do vn ha ng Ty xung
t, bn thn nh Thanh li c ngun gc Mn, cho nn nh Nguyn
t nhn l triu i k tha tnh chnh thng ca vn minh Trung Hoa.
Bi vy nh nh s hc Nht Bn, Yamamoto Tatsuro nhn xt: Ngi
Vit Nam vn ht sc t tin cho rng h lu gi c trn vn truyn
thng c ca Trung Quc, ng thi l ngi bo v cho t tng Hoa di
khng km g Trung Quc.(1)
Xut pht t s t tin v t tn v vn hin, vua Minh Mng tng

1. Lch s quan h Vit Nam - Trung Quc. Tr.543.

 ch th ch Hn ca vua Cn sch.(1) V vy, chng ta kh c
Long th thin, qu kch, th th ph nhn mt s nh hng
276 277
ng lm cng khng n ni ca cc dng o m cng ha
nh th(1), ng thi cn ni: tit trang tr c ngun gc Mn
Thanh l man di, o m vo Thanh trong trang phc ca vua
chu u theo thi tc man di, ti triu Nguyn. Ch ring o m
khng c bt chc. Nm L phc mi c chm chc t
1830, sau khi khi phc trang ngun tham kho chnh l trang
i Nam nht thng ton
phc Cn Min theo quy ch phc Tng - Minh.
Pha Bc gip ba tnh Qung ng, Qung Ty, Tng - Minh, vua Minh Mng Bn cnh , do quan nim
Vn Nam ca Trung chu; pha Ty khng ch cc
tc man di, tip vi cc nc Nam Chng, Min
xung d: Cn Min c vn ha, tn ngng ca phng
in; pha ng trng ra b ln, m bc cc o; t nh t i Hin Vin, i Ty hon ton khc bit vi
pha Nam cng chm ti bin, vng qua pha Ty
Nam st vch Xim La, cc thuc quc cn li v
Tam i tr xung t dng [] truyn thng ca ngi Vit, cc
tc man di khc nhau ni ph u c, tht l mt Ngay nh Bc triu t khi nh v vua u triu Nguyn u mt
i quc sng sng gia tri t (L Vn Phc.
Bin di lun).
Thanh dng nc n nay mc bi xch, thm ch coi ngi
cng b lu. Nay ta ch phng Ty l man di, cn phi
dng, in l ca ngi Thanh mt, chc s bt chc ta m sa li thn trng phng. Nh thng
cho ng. So vi Bc triu, ta cng v vang vy. Nhng lng trm cng 6 nm 1804, vua Gia Long ni:
cha dm cho l iu hay nht, v th tri ct thc tm ch khng Tin vng kinh dinh vic nc,
phi vn v. (2)
khng H ln vi di, thc
Tuy nhin, t trong nhn quan Nho gio ng thi, mc d ht l ci phng t lc vic cn
sc t tin v tnh chnh thng, song vua quan triu Nguyn vn phi nh. Ngi Hng mao gian gio
cng nhn vn ha nh Thanh t c nhiu thnh tu v c nhiu tr tr, khng phi ni ging ta,
iu ng hc hi. Nu nh quan ch thi Gia Long cn gn gi mt lng t d bit, ch c cho
phn quan ch nh L Trung Hng th n thi Minh Mng li c li, nn ban thng hu hnh ri
phng theo quan ch ca nh Thanh. Ngay b Hong Vit lut l phn xua i(2) Vua Minh Mng cng
ln c tham kho t sch lut ca nh Thanh, nh chnh li vua Gia c nhn nh tng t: Ngi
Long bo ca nh Nguyn, nh Thanh, nh
Long ni: Cc i Hn, ng, Tng, Minh ca Bc triu, sch lut lnh Ty dng bn tnh gio tr kiu
Minh v Triu Tin.
i no cng c sa i v hon b nht l i Thanh. Trm bn sai cc ngo, phi chng nay c n
quan trong triu chun theo php in lut l ca cc triu, tham kho cu tut nn bng chc ci ha c ci tc di r ca h?(3)
thm lut lnh i Hng c v ca nh Thanh [] ri bin tp li thnh Trc bi cnh nh vy, khi t nh ch o m phm phc,

1. (Vit) i Nam thc lc. Chnh bin. nh k. Q.159. (Tp 4). Cn Long nh Thanh lm th rt nhiu, ta 1. C lut Vit Nam. Quc triu hnh lut v Hong Vit lut l. Tr.173-174.
xem ra, u l nhng bi i thng vo tnh cnh, chng cn nhng li ph phim gt gia, song c nhiu ch 2. (Vit) i Nam thc lc - Chnh bin - nht k - Q.24. Nguyn vn:
cn th [] Cc bi ta lm ch t tnh, t cnh m dng ch chng n ni qu kch nh th.
2. (Vit) Minh Mng chnh yu. Tp.3. Q.12. Tr.CCLXV-4a. Nguyn vn: 3. Minh Mng chnh yu. Tp VI. Ph lc Hn vn. Tr.CCCXIV.31b. Nguyn vn:
[] ; Tr.CCCXXV.37a. Nguyn vn:

 ngoi vic k tha mt phn quy ch thi L Trung Hng v thi cha a. Cn Min
Nguyn Phc Khot, triu nh nh Nguyn vn tip tc tham kho ch Thi cc cha Nguyn ct c ng
278 279
trang phc ca cc triu i Trung Hoa l nh Tng, nh Minh v Trong, vo dp t l, cha i m Xung
nh Thanh, trong , trang phc Tng - Minh l ngun tham kho chnh Thin lm bng sa, mc o bo (giao lnh)
thng. T thi vua ng Khnh, Khi nh v sau, trang phc trong mu huyn, i giy mt, khng x tt.(1)
triu khng cn c tun th nghim ngt nh trc; qun phc Sau khi vua Gia Long thng nht lnh
ca nh vua dn dn cng chu nh hng kiu cch qun phc phng th, thng 2 nm 1807, vua mi bt u
Ty, vic i giy Ty trong triu cng ngy mt thnh hnh. c bit di nh i l Nam Giao, vo ngy t, vua
triu vua Bo i, ln u tin vua cho php b quan khng cn mc cc i m Cu Long, mc Hong bo, ai
b Triu phc, Thng phc khi vo chu, ch cn mc b l phc gin ngc, xim vng, ln n lm l.(2) Minh
tin l o the, khn xp. Mng chnh yu cng cho bit t nm
t trong nhn quan phong kin ng thi, triu nh nh Nguyn 1830 tr v trc, khi t Giao, vua ch i
bt lun th no cng s hu mt nn vn hin o mo c b dy m Cu Long, mc Hong bo, ai ngc
truyn thng v nhng cch tn c sc, t tin snh ngang vi cc quc nh khi lm l t Hng Tng miu(3).
gia Nho gio nh Trung Quc, Triu Tin, khin Khm s nh Thanh l M Cu Long c nhc n y
Lao Sng Quang phi cng nhn: Gn gi Trung H, tn sng Nho gio, l m Cu Long Thng Thin, tn gi
yu chung thi th, cng c coi l t thanh danh vn vt, t phi ni khc ca m Xung Thin triu Nguyn.
n hai nc Triu Tin v Vit Nam. (1)
Nh vy L phc t Giao thi vua Gia
Long vn tun theo quy ch thi L
I. TRANG PHC HONG Trung Hng. Nm 1830 l thi im triu
1. L phc nh vua Minh Mng khi phc quy ch
Vua Khi nh mc Cn Min. n t
Tng t nh cc v hong i Vit trc y, cc vua nh Cn Min. Theo quy ch L phc t
Nam Giao ti Hu.
Nguyn cng c t tng vng, lm b ch ton ci phng Nam. tri dnh cho hong c quy nh
c bit sau khi s hu mt quc th rng ln cha tng c trong lch l m Min 12 lu v o Cn 12 chng, c th c Hi in cho bit:
s m nh li triu thn L Vn Phc, Vit Nam lc ny l mt i quc M Min t Giao trn vung di trn, nh hai ch Vn Th
sng sng gia vm tri t, vua Minh Mng cho khi phc quy ch bng vng hoc hai ch Thin a bng vng, 12 hnh rng my, 6 hnh
o Cn m Min, vn b ph b t thi L Trung Hng, nh du v ngn la, 2 thy vn, 4 nhiu tng, 1 hoa sen, 1 a my, 1 lin ng
th ca thin t phng Nam c quyn c lp t tri. chy vin quanh thnh m, 256 ht vng, 2 cc, 2 khuyn. Mt trc v
Theo Hi in, cc vua nh Nguyn c hai loi L phc, gm L sau c 24 di lu, hai bn phi tri mi bn 1 di lu, u xu chui
phc Cn Min s dng trong l t Giao v L phc Xun Thu s dng bng san h, trn chu, pha l v cc ht vng, tng cng 300 ht. Xung
trong cc dp t l ti Tng Miu. quanh c mng kim tuyn nh kt vi 400 ht vng ngc. Trm khm
trn chu ni vi dy thy anh lm bng t vng. Phm l mt rng

1. (Trung) Hi ngoi k s - Q.2. Nguyn vn:

2. (Vit) i Nam thc lc - Chnh bin - nht k. Tp 1. Tr.692.
1. (Vit) Tp m thi vn - Nam quc phong nh thng bin t. Nguyn vn: ,, 3. (Vit) Minh Mng chnh yu. Tp 3. Q.12. Tr. CCLXIV-3b. Nguyn vn:
,
 u khm cc ht trn chu nh. Vng
cn sc 4 khuyn vng. (1)
280
Theo ghi nhn ca Hi in, i
Nam thc lc v hnh v trong BAVH, m
Min dnh cho Hong triu Nguyn l
loi m Min 12 lu (pha trc 12 lu,
pha sau 12 lu), khp vi cc nguyn
tc ca m Min dnh cho thin t theo
Chu l. Tuy nhin, nh chnh li vua Minh
Mng ni Cn Min c t thi Hin Vin
[] trm nay noi theo php xa m thm
bt , dy sung nh gn hai bn thi
(2)
dng m c i thnh hai di lu, dy
hong mu son c i thnh dy
thy anh lm bng t vng, cng li trang
M Min ca hong nh Nguyn tr trn nh min bn v quanh thn m
trong BAVH (1915) v m Min phc
ch (Bo tng Lch s Vit Nam; m u c th coi l nhng nt c sc ch
phc ch thiu dy thy anh). xut hin m Min ca triu Nguyn.
Kt hp vi loi m Min 12 lu l b Cn phc 12 chng, phi
vi cc phc sc nh ngc khu, ngc bi, i th, T tt, Cch i, i can kim tuyn. ng bin may lin on gm lan can thun bc hoa
i v.v. C th:
o Cn may bng sa mt bng thun ch, mu thin thanh, thu
6 chng: Nht, Nguyt, Tinh thn, Sn, Long, Hoa trng. Di thy lu
(ch di vi buc o ca o giao lnh, tnh cht nh cc) thu hnh rng my, hoc may
bng sa mt bng thun ch mu tuyt bch. ng tay o thu hnh rng
my. C o may bng on Bt ti bng mu quan lc. o lt trong may
bng la mu trng thu hoa vn ch (tc chng Pht), di thy lu
thu hnh rng my, sng nc.
Thng may bng sa mt bng thun ch mu vng chnh sc,
thu cc chng: To, Ha, Phn m, Ph, Pht, Tng di (Thng 6 chng
kt hp vi o Cn 6 chng, tng cng 12 chng) v cc hnh c , bt bo, lin
1. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.5,6. Nguyn vn:
2. (Vit) Minh Mng chnh yu. Tp 3. Q.12. Tr.CCLXV-4a.
ng, hi vn, sng nc vn vn. Vin
gm hng nht hoa sen thun vng mu
281
bo lam, lt sa Nam mt bng mu vng
chnh sc. K y (o lt c trn gn vi thng) may
bng la trng.
T tt mt chic, lm bng t Bt ti
bng mu vng chnh sc, lt la mu ,
thu chng Sn, Long, hnh my v cc
hnh ha lu. 4 ng bin may lin on
gm lan can thun bc hoa mai mu bo
lam xen vi on Bt ti bng mu hoa xch
( hoa). Vin gm hng nht hoa sen thun
vng, 4 mc vng, 4 cc vng.
i th mt chic, lm bng on
Bt ti bng mu thin thanh, lt la mu
vng, thu hnh rng my, sng nc v 1. o lt thu hoa vn ch ca vua
Triu Tin (cn gi o Trung n); 2.
cc hnh c . Bn trn may lin mt Thng v K y ca vua quan triu
ming (ngc trng) hnh bn nguyt vi Nguyn (BAVH).
on Bt ti bng mu hoa xch, thu cc hnh rng my xen vi hnh lan
mai mu bo lam. Vin gm hng nht hoa sen thun vng mu bo lam
kt vi dy nhung xu ngc cc mu. 1 di thy anh, 2 di thy lu xen
dng tru bng mu vng, trng, .
Pha di kt li, thy anh v mc bc
4 chic, cc vng 7 ht.
Ngc bi hai di. Mi di c 1 ngc
trng hnh con di, 1 ngc trng hnh
vung, 1 ngc trng hnh trn, 2 ngc
trng hnh bn nguyt, 1 ngc trng
hnh khnh, xu chui vi cc ht vn
mu, san h, h phch mu en, mi
loi hn 200 ht, 1 mc cu vng.
Cch i mt chic, bc t Bt
ti bng mu vng chnh sc, kt vi 1
Ngc bi kt hp vi Cn phc ca vua
triu Nguyn (BAVH); 2. Tp bi ming ngc trng hnh vung, 6 ming
(Tam ti hi). ngc trng hnh chic mc, bn ngoi

282
Hia p dng cho Cn phc, Triu phc v
Thng phc ca vua triu Nguyn. (Bu vt
triu Nguyn).
Hia thn lm bng t Bt ti mu thm,
thu rng my, lin ng, ngn la v hi
vn kim tuyn, xen k gn kt vi gng ty;
pha di lm bng t lng v mu vng, thu
nh cc loi ht trn chu, san h nh, hnh
rng, mi loi 2 th v cc hnh c , xen k
gn vi gng ty, nh 3 chic kim bn, mi
chic khm 1 ht ha t, 2 ht kim cang lt
on Bt ti mu .(1)
i chiu t liu vn t v t liu hnh
nh tng quan, c th thy trang phc Cn
1. (Vit) Hi in - Quyn 78. Tr.6-8. Nguyn vn:
. 1. BAVH. 1915. Tr. 75-76 .
u bc vng, 6 chn cc, 2 hnh l Min ca Hong triu Nguyn tuy phn ln tham kho t quy ch
vng ta, 2 khuy kp bc. Tng - Minh, song xut hin rt nhiu bin d, c bit l vic s dng
283
i i lm bng on Bt ti i i vt ngang vai v s kt hp gia thng v K y c trn. Ring i
bng mu bo lam, bn trong lt i, theo quy ch Tng Minh, l di ai bng la trng dng tht lng,
tru bng mu hoa xch, hai u kt hp vi ai da - cch i. Song nh BAVH m t, vo thi Nguyn,
xu chui vi cc hng chu ngc, i i l di khn mnh vt qua vai, vt qua ngc, mi u u c
c thy 392 ht, 10 di thy anh kim dim bn rng bng la nm ngc nhiu mu v r xung tht thp.(1)
tuyn.
Bt tt ging nh Triu phc
(thn lm bng t Bt ti bng mu bo lam,
gia l t Bt ti bng mu tuyt bch, pha
di l vi ty mu tuyt bch dt thun
vng, gm hng nht hoa sen xen lan can
kim tuyn, pha trn gn vi h tt).
Mt trong nhng chic tt ca
vua Khi nh (nh: Trnh
Bch).
1. Vua Khi nh mc trang phc Cn Min, song thay v tht T tt pha trc, ng li
tht i Th vn l phc sc che pha sau. Cch phi hp nh vy khng hp quy ch. Phi
chng y l mt trong nhng kiu n vn khng phi li ca vua Khi nh nh li cng
kch ca Phan Chu Trinh. (Tht iu trn. Tp ch Nghin cu lch s, s 66); 2. Trang phc
Cn Min ca Hong triu Nguyn (Phc dng).
Trang phc Cn Min ca Hong triu Nguyn (BAVH) 1.2.3.4. M Min 12 lu. (1. Min bn
nhn t trn xung; 2 - 3. M Min nhn trc din v trc din; 4. Dy thy anh mu vng gn trm
ngc); 5. Khu (cn gi l Trn khu, ht). 6. Hia. 7. i i. 8. Cch i. 9. Bi. 10. Tp bi. 11.
Tiu th. 12. Cn phc 12 chng (mt trc v mt sau): A. o xanh en 6 chng (a. Nguyt; b.
Nht; c. Tinh thn; d. Sn; e. Long; f. Hoa trng). B. Thng 6 chng. C. T tt (thu 2 chng
Sn v Long, 1 hnh rng bay ln v 1 hnh rng bay xung). D. i th.

Mt s phc sc trong b Cn phc ca hong nh Minh (Tam ti hi). 1. o Cn mu huyn;

2. o lt Trung n; 3. Thng mu nht; 4. T tt; 5. Cch i; 6. i i; 7. Th; 8. Tp bi. Hin vt o Cn ca vua Khi nh triu Nguyn (nh: Trnh Bch), Hiu Minh thin hong
Quy ch Cn Min ca nh Minh c sa i nhiu ln. Quy ch Cn Min ca Hong triu Nht Bn (M thut Nht Bn) v Thun Tng hong thi i Hn quc (Phc sc).
Nguyn nhiu kh nng c tham kho trc tip t quy ch trong Tam ti hi.
 BNG SO SNH QUY CH CN MIN 12 LU 12 b. Xun Thu
CHNG CA HONG NH NGUYN VIT NAM VI NH TNG T Tng miu cng l mt trong nhng
286 287
V NH MINH TRUNG QUC l tit quan trng trong vn ha cung nh.
(theo i Nam hi in s l, Tng s v Minh hi in) Vo dp t l ny, vua nh Trn s dng L
phc Quyn Vn, vua nh L s dng L
Quy ch ca nh Quy ch ca nh Quy ch ca nh Minh phc Bnh nh, cc vua nh Nguyn mun
Nguyn Tng
nht vo thi vua Gia Long c L phc
-M Min 12 lu, sung -M Min 12 lu, thn -M Min 12 lu, thn m Xun Thu. i Nam thc lc cho bit: Bui
nh c thay bng m Thng Thin gia dng ng gia min bn, dy
2 di lu, dy hong min bn, dy hong hong mu son hm trc ngy ht tang mt nm, vua (ch
c thay bng dy mu son vua Gia Long) b o tang, ni gim em ct i.
thy anh lm bng t
vng n ngy , bn th by t nh nghi thc
-o Cn mu xanh, -o Cn mu xanh, -o Cn mu huyn, thu 6 t in ln. Vua mc trng, i m Xun
thu 6 chng Nht, thu 7 chng Nht, chng Nht, Nguyt, Tinh, Thu bng sa trng, o giao lnh bng sa
Nguyt, Tinh, Sn, Nguyt, Tinh, Sn, Sn, Long, Hoa trng
Long, Hoa trng Long, Tr (Hoa trng), trng, thng bng la trng, giy v bt tt
H du (Tng di) trng, n trc bn th lm l [] T in
-Thng mu vng, -Thng mu , thu -Thng mu vng, thu 6 ln, t cu ngu, t tt khc mc cng theo
thu 6 chng To, 5 chng To, Ha, chng To, Ha, Tng di,
Ha, Phn m, Tng Phn m, Ph, Pht Phn m, Ph, Pht nh th [] Cn t Luyn, t Tng v t
di, Ph, Pht v cc m th sau ngy tt khc mi c hnh. T
hnh c , bt bo...
Luyn vua mc L phc, i m Xun Thu
-o Trung n may -o Trung n may -o Trung n may bng sa
bng la trng, thu bng l trng trng, c o thu 13 chng
bng sa thm, o giao lnh bng sa thm,
12 chng Pht Pht thng bng la mu bic lt la trng, giy
-T tt mu vng vin -T tt mu , thu -T tt mu , thu 4 chng v bt tt en. T Tng v t m vua mc
lam, thu Sn, Long, 1 con rng bay ln, 1 To, Phn m, Ph, Pht mu, m Xun Thu bng nhiu thm,
1 rng bay ln, 1 rng con rng bay xung,
bay xung, hnh my gia l my, sc ngc o giao lnh bng sa on mu bo lam,
v cc hnh ha lu qu thng bng sa bic lt trng, bt tt lam, M Xun Thu ca quan v T
-i th thu hnh -i th 6 mu nh i th 6 mu nh 3 tiu th giy en.(1). Vo thi Gia Long, quy ch L phm (BAVH); Vua Gia Long
rng my sng nc, 3 tiu th kt 3 ngc kt 3 ngc hon i m Xun Thu di nt v ca
xu cc loi ngc hon phc Xun Thu c s phn bit ty theo quy ngi Php. (nh phc ch).
m ca bui t. t nht c ba dng L phc
-Ngc bi 2 di, gm -Ngc bi 2 di, lm -Ngc bi 2 di, gm cc loi
cc loi ngc hnh, c, bng ngc trng tr ngc hnh, c, v, xung nha, Xun Thu p dng cho thin t trong cc dp t i in, t Cu Ngu, t
xung nha, hong rng hong
tt khc, t Luyn, t Tng, t m. Vo thi vua Minh Mng, quy ch
-Cch i nh ngc -Cch i tr rng -Cch i nh ngc L phc Xun Thu c gin ha, thng nht l m Xun Thu mu en
trng, bc vng phng bng vng
kt hp vi o giao lnh mu thin thanh (mu huyn).
-Tt pha trn gn h -Tt , giy Tch -Tt , giy Tch
tt, thn mu lam, Nm 1821, vua Minh Mng ni vi Thng th B L Phm ng
pha di mu trng, Hng: Trong ngy k lit thnh, hong kho ta i m Xun Thu, mc
dt vng, hia mu
thm thu rng my
1. (Vit) i Nam thc lc - Chnh bin - nht k. Tp 1. Tr.896.
 o giao lnh, t c in tc. Trm nn theo l ca hong kho th lit v Thng triu.(1) Nh vy, vo thi Nguyn,
thnh th hong kho.(1) ng thi quy nh: Triu phc hay cn gi l trang phc i triu
288 289
M L phc l m Xun Thu, lm bng sa tru mu en, nh 1 ch trang phc mc vo ngy rm, mng mt
bng hoa bc, khm mt ht pha l lp lnh. Vng cn mt chic, sc bn v mt s dp l tt nht nh; Thng phc l
khuyn bc. o giao lnh lm bng sa mt thun ch, mu thin thanh, trang phc mc vo cc ngy chu thng mng
o lt lm bng sa mt thun ch mu tuyt bch, u thu hoa vn rng 5, 10, 20, 25.
my, sng nc. Hoc o lm bng on Bt ti bng thun ch lai l, a. M Cu Long Thng Thin
mu thin thanh, thu rng my, bn trong lt lnh 12 hoa mu n cho Hi in, Hi in tc bin, i Nam in l
mu ngc lam. C o v hai di thy lu u dng mu sc gc (ca o). tot yu, i Nam thc lc u ghi nhn, vo cc
Thng lm bng sa mt thu hoa nh, mu ngc lam, vin lm bng bui i triu, hong mc Hong bo, i m
on Bt ti bng mu thin thanh. K y lm bng la sng. Cu Long Thng Thin. Loi m Triu phc ny
Bt tt c thn lm bng t Bt ti bng mu bo lam, gia l t Bt mt s sch nh Minh Mng chnh yu, i M Cu Long Thng Thin
ti bng mu tuyt bch, pha di l vi ty mu tuyt bch dt thun Nam thc lc cn c gi tt l m Cu Long, th hin trn tng kim thn
ca vua Khi nh (Lng
vng, gm hng nht hoa sen xen lan can kim tuyn, bn trong lt la trong dn gian quen gi l m Xung Thin. Nam Khi nh. nh: TQ).
mu . Hia c thn hia lm bng t Bt ti mu thm, bn trong lt lnh phng danh vt b kho thi Nguyn gii thch:
bng mu bo lam.(2) M Xung Thin, m i triu ca thin t ngy nay, nh m Phc u,
2. Triu phc hai cnh chun cha ln tri.(2) Ring t Thng Thin, Ch Nam ngc
T thng 5 nm 1806 thi vua Gia Long, m gii thch Thng Thin quan hiu (gi l) Triu Thin.(3) T in Vit
cc bui chu i triu, Thng triu c quy - B - La ca Alexandre de Rhodes nh ngha: M Triu Thin l vng
nh: Mi thng ly ngy mng mt v ngy min (m ca vua). Cc c liu trn chng t vo thi L -Nguyn, loi
rm t i triu in Thi Ha, quan t lc m tng t m Phc u c hai cnh chun hng ln tri, ngoi tn
phm tr ln mc o m i triu vo ly chu; gi m Xung Thin, cn c gi l m Triu Thin v Thng Thin.
nhng ngy mng 5, 10, 20, 25 t Thng triu Ring loi m Thng Thin c nhng bi my cun trn nh m, nh
in Cn Chnh, quan t t phm tr ln mc Trn gi l m Quyn Vn, nh L Trung Hng gi l m Tam Sn.
o m Thng triu vo ly chu. Cc thnh v i vi quy ch m Cu Long Thng Thin, Hi in cho bit, m
dinh trn n ngy mng mt v ngy rm u i triu Cu Long Thng Thin nh 31 hnh rng vng, 30 hnh ngn
bi vng Hnh cung.(3) Minh Mng chnh yu la; pha trc v sau u c 1 bc sn, 1 honh long, ht bc pha l lp
Vua ng Khnh tht
cng c ghi chp tng t, ng thi cho bit, lnh v ht thng thin mi th 2 chic; 1 lin ng, 1 nhiu tng, 1
Vng Cn, i m Cu
phm gp thng nhun u min c i triu Long Thng Thin. a hoa hnh trn, 30 a my u kt bng ch; cc hng ngc dng
khm sc nh ha t, kim cang, trn chu gm 140 ht, mt mi con
rng u khm 1 ht trn chu nh.(4) Trc khi i m, vua cn tht
1. (Vit) Minh Mng chnh yu. Tp 3. Q.11. Tr.CCX -15b.
2. (Vit) Hi in - Quyn 78. Tr.4-5. Nguyn vn:
1. (Vit) Minh Mng chnh yu. Tp 3. Q.11. Tr.CCXVIII-19b.
2. (Vit) Nam phng danh vt b kho - Thng - Q.31 - Phc dng mn. Nguyn vn:

3. (Vit) Ch Nam ngc m. Tr.120
4. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.1-2. Nguyn vn:
3. (Vit) i Nam thc lc - Chnh bin - nht k. Tp 1. Tr.666
 Vng cn sc 4 khuyn vng. Nh vy c
th thy, loi m Triu phc ca Hong
290
nh Nguyn c ngun gc l m Xung Thin
ca vua L cha Trnh, song c sc ln
v s trang sc bng vng v qu, ng
thi c t tn mi, gi l m Cu Long
Thng Thin. Qua mt s nh chp cc v
Mt trc v sau u c hai ch Vn
Th, ba hnh rng. Hai ng tay o v
291
hai cnh u c mt hnh rng. Cc
hoa vn san h, ha lu u xu chui
bng cc ht ngc chu nh. C o
may bng on Bt ti bng mu tuyt
bch. Thy lu hai di (ch hai di tht

vua ng Khnh, Duy Tn, Khi nh, Bo nh nch o, c chc nng nh cc) u thu
i, c th thy li trang sc trn m Cu hnh rng my.
Long ca cc v vua ny khng hon ton Thng lm bng sa mt bng
ng nht. c bit, hai cnh m Xung mu hoa xch, thu hnh cc hnh
Thin th hin trn pho tng kim thn ca rng , sng nc, c , bt bo; pha
vua Khi nh c dng cong trn hi hng di ni vi hnh hi vn, lin ng,
v pha trc, trng khp vi hnh dng lan can mu hoa xch, gm on lt
cnh m Xung Thin ca vua Quang Trung la mu , gm hng nht thu hoa
gi th hin trong bc tranh Cn Long bt sen thun vng mu lc lam. K y lm
tun vn th khnh in . Dng cnh m bng la sng. Chn dung vua ng Khnh (1864 - 1889)
M Cu Long Thng Thin ca mc Triu phc. Ngc o bo thu 2 ch
cc vua nh Nguyn. (Phc ch.
ny nn c coi l quy ch chung nht ca ai lm bng on Bt ti bng Vn Th theo li ch Trin. (Bu vt triu
Bo tng Lch s). Bc sn: trang dng m Xung Thin triu L Nguyn hay mu vng chnh sc may xen vi t Nguyn).
sc hnh bn nguyt chy vng trn
trn m. Ht bc pha l lp lnh:
ch l vi trng hp c bit? Vi c liu mu xch v, nh 18 ming sng t hnh mc di, bn ngoi bc vng,
trang sc nh cho 2 bn Bc Sn. hin c chng ti thin v kh nng th khm 92 ht trn chu.
Nhiu Tng: trang sc nh gia
trn m. Honh long: hc cm cnh
nht, song chng ti cho rng, dng cnh Bt tt c thn lm bng t Bt ti bng mu bo lam, gia l t Bt
chun hnh u rng nm ngang m Xung Thin ny c l ch c s dng ti bng mu tuyt bch, pha di l vi ty mu tuyt bch dt thun
gy m. Ht Thng Thin: hai cnh
chun vn ra t Honh Long, l ra
t thi cha Nguyn Phc Khot tr v sau. vng, gm hng nht hoa sen xen lan can kim tuyn, pha trn gn h tt.
hi cong gp. Ngoi ra, o mo ca vua quan nh Nguyn
v c bn bm st quy ch ca Hi in,
nhng trn thc t vn c s gia gim, c bit l o mo ca nh vua.
b. Bo phc
Kt hp vi m Cu Long Thng Thin l b Bo phc bao gm
Hong bo, ai ngc, xim y, h tt, bt tt v hia.
Trong , o bo lm bng sa on mu vng chnh sc, thu cc
hnh rng my, sng nc ln nh v 4 ch Phc Th, o sa dy thu hoa
T hu (mai, lan, cc, trc) hoc loi tru mu hoa xch thu hoa T hu;
hai cnh (tc hai cnh ph hu lng o) dng on Bt ti bng mu bo lam.

Vua Thnh Thi, vua Bo i v vua Khi nh mc Triu phc.

 H tt lm bng t Bt ti bng mu vng
chnh sc, thu hnh rng my, sng nc, tt
292
c u dng kim tuyn theo kiu hi vn, vin
gm hng nht thun vng mu bo lam, bn
trong lt tru bng. Hia c thn hia lm
bng t Bt ti mu thm, thu cc hnh rng
my, sng nc, hoa bng kim tuyn, bn trong
lt t Bt ti mu .
(1)
Qua m t ca Hi in, kt hp vi t liu
nh triu Nguyn, c th thy Long bo ca cc
v vua triu Nguyn k tha kiu dng trang tr
Long bo thi L Trung Hng. c trng ca
li bo phc ny l hoa vn Long vn i hi
v hai cnh o ph hu lng o. S bin cch
ln nht ca Long bo, Mng bo triu Nguyn
nm hoa vn trang tr rng, my, sng nc,
c , bt bo, san h, ha lu v lan can,
mang li cm gic cu k v ngp mt.
Ngoi ra, t thi L - Trnh tr v trc,
o giao lnh l dng o ph bin, s dng trong
cung nh v dn gian, cho nn mt b Bo
phc thng thng bao gm o Trung n c
giao lnh mc lt bn trong, o on lnh c
trn mc ra bn ngoi. Vo thi Nguyn, triu
u tht Vng Cn, chn nh ph b kiu o giao lnh s dng trong
buc h tt. (K thut ca
ngy thng, thay vo l loi o di nm
ngi An Nam).
thn c ng ci khuy. C o bo ca vua quan
nh Nguyn lc ny c nh thm mt lp lt bng la trng di ra
pha ngoi, i m phng c o giao lnh trc y.
1. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.2-3. Nguyn vn:
mu, thu rng ln v cc hnh c , bt bo, sng nc; mt rng
u khm ht h phch mu huyn, cn li u xu chui cc ht chu
1. Nguyn vn:
3. Thng phc
Hi in cho bit m Thng triu ca cc
293
v vua nh Nguyn l Cu Long ng Cn, song
khng cp quy ch c th. Ring m Triu
phc Tht Long ng Cn ca hong thi t
c m t trang sc bng vng v ngc chu.
Sau khi kho st mt s nh chn dung cc v
vua triu Nguyn, chng ti pht hin thy
ngoi m Cu Long Thng Thin, cc vua nh
Nguyn cn i mt loi m c phn gy nh
cao, chm khum trn chm v pha trc, choi
sang hai bn thnh hnh ch Bt . Chng ti M Cu Long ng Cn th
hin trn tranh chn dung vua
cho rng, loi m xut hin trong cc nh chn
T c v vua Thnh Thi.
dung vua T c, ng Khnh, Thnh Thi l
m Cu Long ng Cn, loi m xut hin trong nh chn dung Thi
t Bo i v Thi t Bo Long l m Tht Long ng Cn. Ngoi ra,
theo t chu bn s 163 165 Khi nh quyn s 1, c th thy m Cu
Long ng Cn cn c gi tt l ng Cn. T chu ph ny cho
bit: Chiu theo l ca quc
triu hng nm gp cc tt
oan Dng, ng ch th t
nghi l Thng triu ti in
Cn Chnh, xin hong thng
i ng Cn, mc Long bo,
cm ngc khu.(1)
Kt hp vi ng Cn l
Long bo, song cn lu rng
Long bo Thng triu c b
Vua Thnh Thi, ng Khnh mc Thng phc.
cc hoa vn trang tr khc vi
Long bo i triu. Quy ch c th c Hi in m t: o bo lm
bng sa mt bng thun ch, mu vng chnh sc, bn trong lt cng
 ngc nh. Hai mt o v hai ng tay o u nh khng c s liu cp, ngoi tr thng tin ghi li trong tm bia i
xu chui cc ht chu ngc lm thnh hnh Vit Lam sn D lng bi cho bit vua L Hin Tng mc o Cn, i m
294 295
m t (ch cc ch c ngha p nh Phc, Th v.v). C o Min c dy hong mu son. Cn Min cng l L phc Tch in
lt on Bt ti bng mu vng chnh sc thu ca cc vua triu Hn ng, khc vi quy ch L phc Tch in thi
hnh rng my. Hai di thy lu u thu Tng Minh l m Thng Thin kt hp vi o bo .
hnh rng my. Thng dng sa mt bng 4. Qun phc
thun ch mu hoa xch, thu hnh rng , Vo thi vua Minh
sng nc, c , bt bo, cnh hoa v.v. pha Mng, qun phc hay trang
di ni vi hnh hi vn, lin ng, lan can phc nh vua s dng khi
mu hoa xch, gm on lt la mu , gm duyt binh c quy nh
hng nht thu hoa sen thun vng mu bo l m v i Long kt hp
lam. K y lm bng la sng. Bt tt c thn vi Hong bo hp tay c
lm bng t Bt ti bng mu bo lam, gia Vn kin lin c mu xanh
l t Bt ti bng mu tuyt bch, pha di l Vua Khi nh i m Triu thm. Song vi m t ca
phc, song li mc o bo
vi ty mu tuyt bch dt thun vng, gm Thng phc. Hi in, chng ta cng ch
hng nht hoa sen xen lan can kim tuyn, lt bit M v i Long c
sa, tru bng mu . Hia ging hia i triu(1). lm bng t lng v mu Qun phc ca vua triu Nguyn hp tay, vn kin lin
c. (Bo tng Lch s Vit Nam. nh: Philippe Trng).
Hi in cn cho bit, khi en, lt on Bt ti bng
cy rung Tch in, vua i mu vng chnh sc, lan can kim tuyn ca Ty dng, nh 4 hnh rng
m Cu Long ng Cn, Long vng, 1 hnh ngn la, 2 hnh rng my, 1 hnh my, mt rng khm trn
bo hp tay mu vng, ai hia chu, cn li u sc chu ngc. Thy anh dng lan can kim tuyn ca
ging nh trang phc duyt binh Ty dng.(1) Cn nh hnh dng c th ca loi m ny ra sao, hin
(tc qun phc).(2) Chng ti cho chng ti cha c t liu tranh nh c th xc thc. Ring bo phc
rng, trang phc th hin trong kt hp vi m v i Long, hin vn cn hin vt i chiu, v c bn
bc nh chn dung vua Thnh khp vi m t ca Hi in:
Thi (m Cu Long ng Cn o bo hp tay lm bng sa mt bng thun ch mu vng chnh
Vua Thnh Thi mc l phc Tch in v vua kt hp vi o bo hp tay, x sc, thu rng my, sng nc, c , bt bo, lt tru mu hoa xch thu
Duy Tn mc Thng phc.
bn vt, ai loan) chnh l trang mu n, bm bm. Vin gm hng nht hoa sen thun vng mu
phc cc vua nh Nguyn s dng trong ngy l Tch in. Trang phc bo lam, u xu chui cc ht trn chu, san h nh. Vn kin lin c
s dng khi cy rung Tch in ca vua cha i Vit trc y hu o lm bng on Bt ti bng mu thin thanh, thu rng my, sng
nc, c , bt bo. o ngn M qui hai chic, lm bng t Bt ti mu
1. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.3-4. Nguyn vn: thm, thu hnh rng my, sng nc, hnh con di, ngn la. Thng



1. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.8. Nguyn vn:

2. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.10. Nguyn vn:
 kp may bng t Bt ti bng mu Ngoi ra, vo thi vua Khi nh, phn ln cc loi trang phc ca
vng chnh sc, thu i phng vua u do vua t v kiu, thit k, ngay trang phc Cn Min t tri
296 297
v cc hnh lin ng, hi vn. cng b ph cch bng cch mc i th pha sau ln pha trc
Di gu lm bng t Bt ti bng thay cho t tt. c bit phi k n vic vua kt hp o bo hp tay, x
mu hoa xch, thu rng my, 4 vt s dng trong dp cy rung Tch in vi b qun phc chu u,
sng nc, lin ng, hi vn, ng thi phi vi nn hoc khn xp, to ra mt trong nhng loi qun
lt tru mu hoa xch thu hnh trang v tin khong hu. t trong bi cnh ng thi, khi vua nh
mu n, bm bm. Bn bn Thanh, Triu Tin, Nht Bn u du nhp v rp khun theo mu qun
may lin t Bt ti bng mu ngc phc phng Ty th chnh phong cch pha trn, ph v truyn thng
lam. Vin gm hng nht hoa th hin trn qun trang ca vua Khi nh li l nt c sc ca ring
Qun phc ca vua Khi nh v Thi t Bo
sen thun vng mu bo lam Long (1936-2007). ng v ring triu i ng tr v. Tuy nhin, ngoi b qun phc ph
gn tru mu thu mu n, cch, vua Khi nh vn c b qun trang chun mc theo ng dng
bm bm. Thy anh, long bi vng ba mt u lm bng vng, hnh thc ca phng Ty. n thi vua Bo i, chng ta khng cn thy s
chic mc rng my, xung quanh si nhiu tuyn khm cc loi ngc ha ph cch, pha trn ny thm na.
t, trn chu, kim cang, san h hn 300 ht, hn 50 di thy anh kim
tuyn. ai loan mt chic, lan can kim tuyn Ty dng khm 1 ht kim II. TRANG PHC B QUAN
cang hnh phng nh. Xung quanh khm ht kim cang, bn ngoi bc Quy ch Triu phc v Thng
vng, khuy kp, chn cc xu chui trn chu, san h, thanh liu hnh phc ca b quan triu Nguyn c t
hoa 9 a. Hia c thn lm bng t Bt ti mu thm may xen vi t Bt ti nh vo nm 1804 thi vua Gia Long.
bng mu vng chnh sc, lt t Bt ti bng mu hoa xch. (1)
Nm 1831, vua Minh Mng nh ra quy
ch T phc Cn Min dnh cho hong
t, vng cng v cc quan nht, nh, tam
phm. Nm 1845 thi vua Thiu Tr, quy
ch Triu phc c sa i, ch yu
quy ch trang sc trn m Phc u.
1. L phc
1.1. L phc t Giao
Ngay t thi Xun Thu ti Trung
Quc, Cn Min c quy nh l
Vua Minh Tr Nht Bn (1852-1912), vua Khi nh Vit Nam (1885 - 1925), vua Ph Nghi Trung
Quc (1906-1967), vua Cao Tng Triu Tin (1852-1919) mc Qun phc. trang phc i l dnh cho thin t nh
Chu, vua ch hu v mt s v i thn.
1. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.8-10. Nguyn vn:
Ch Cn Min ca nc ta mun nht
Ng , nhc kh s dng khi t
c t nh vo triu inh, c k Giao p dng theo Chu l. Ng ca
nh Thanh (Bo tng C cung Bc
tha qua cc triu i Tin L, L, Trn, Kinh), Ng ca nh Nguyn (BAVH)
H v tuyt tch vo thi thuc Minh. v Ng ca Hn Quc (Bo tng C
cung quc lp Seoul). (nh: TQ).
n thi vua L Thi Tng, quy ch Cn
 Min mi c khi phc, ng thi a. Cn Min 9 lu 9 chng
c duy tr qua cc i vua Nhn
298 299
Tng, Thnh Tng v Hin Tng. K Theo quy ch L phc t Giao
t sau nhng chnh bin, ng lon nm 1830, trang phc Cn Min p
cui thi L s, v vic vua L Trung dng cho hong t v vng cng triu
Hng mt i thc quyn, quy ch Cn Nguyn l m Min 9 lu, Cn phc 9
Min dnh cho vng cng dn b chng. Quy ch m Min 9 lu c
ph b. n thng 12 nm 1755 thi quy nh: M lm bng loi lng ui
vua L Hin Tng, triu nh mi ch nga tt vng ngoi, pha trn chp
ra o Cn m Min lm loi o mo vn g (mc bn) lm ct, pha trc trn,
th Khng T trong Vn Miu(1). Sau pha sau vung, bn ngoi bc bng
khi nh Nguyn thnh lp, nm 1831 on t lt lnh mu . Trc sau u
vua Minh Mng li tham kho quy c 9 dy lu, mi lu lm bng dy to
Quy ch m Min 12 lu ca thin t nh
Chu (Choe Kye Sun. Trung Quc lch ch Tng - Minh t ra trang phc ng sc, 9 tu, xu 9 ngc. Trm ng
i vng Min phc nghin cu) 1. Cn Min dnh cho vua quan triu dn dy hong mu huyn, r xung
Lu (cn gi l Ngc To); 2. To (dy
t ng sc); 3. Ngc chu; 4. Tu; 5. Nguyn, nh du s hon b v vn dy khong mu xanh, sung nh cht
(Ngc) Hnh; 6. m; 7. Thu Khong hin o mo ca quc i Nam. ngc trn mu trng, tua dy hong
hoc (Ngc) Trn; 8. Sung Nh; 9. Honh
(Chu t: dy son); 10. Nu; 11. K (Trm Mi mt triu i phong kin mu son. Xung quanh min bn vin
ngc); 12. V (cng cht liu, cng mu qun ch, bt k triu L, Trn, L, vng, tr hoa vn my r. M sc 1 bc Cn Min 9 lu 9 chng ca Vng
vi Din); 13. Din (cn gi Min Bn. 1 cng triu Nguyn (BAVH); 1. M
thc 6 tc x 8 tc. Mt u trn, mt u Nguyn ti Vit Nam, triu Tng, Minh sn vng, 2 hoa vng, 4 giao long vng,
Min 9 lu; 2. Bc sn vng; 3. Ht
vung, vin mu son). ti Trung Quc hay triu Cao Ly, Triu 4 si kim tuyn, l ci trm (nu) cng ng; 4. o Cn;. 5. T tt mu mc
ln trn thng mu nht; 6. i
Tin, khi t nh in chng ch u tham kho nhng quy ch c sc bng vng.(1) Trn thc t, thn m th mu nht, pha di ni vi cc
in, c bn ca Trung Quc, trn c s t to ra mt nn vn hin Min ca hong t, vng cng v cc tua ng sc. 7. Ngc bi. 8. Chng
Ph thu trn thng. 9. Chng Pht
ring bit. n c nh trang phc Cn Min, mt b Cn phc dnh quan triu Nguyn rt gn gi vi dng hnh ch thu trn thng.
cho thin t phi thu 12 chng, mt chic m Min dnh cho thin m Phc u. Cng chnh v c hnh
t phi c 12 lu. B Cn Min ca vua nh Nguyn c th thy qua dng m Phc u cho nn phn nh m giao vi min bn vn c
cc t liu tranh nh u khp vi nhng quy ch c in ny, song cc th nh thm trang sc bc sn.
hoa vn, trang sc hay s kt hp cc dng phc sc u c nhiu nt Kt hp vi m Min 9 lu l Cn phc 9 chng. Trong :
c sc ring bit, khng ln vi bt k vng triu no ca Trung Quc o 5 chng may bng on mu xanh en, thu chng Long
hay Nht Bn, Triu Tin. Quy ch Cn Min dnh cho hong t, vng vai, chng Sn lng, cc chng Ha, Hoa trng, Tng di mi chng
cng v b quan nh Nguyn cng tng t nh vy. 3 hnh hai ng tay o. C o mu nh mu o (mu gc).
Thng 4 chng lm bng on mu nht (Hun thng), thu cc
1. (Vit) Cng mc. Nguyn vn:
"Bt u ch
trang phc Cn Min th Vn Miu. Nguyn Huy Nhun, vin quan gi vic trong chnh ph dng li ni: 1. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.19. Nguyn vn: ,
ng thnh nhn l thy ca vng mun i, th m t trc n nay phm phc th Vn Miu vn
dng Min phc ca quan t khu, nh th khng phi t lng tn sng. Bn h lnh i dng trang phc
Cn Min. Dng trang phc ca vng th Vn Miu, bt u t y.
 chng To, Phn m, Ph, Pht, mi chng
hai hnh, pha trc 3 bc, pha sau 4 bc, cc
300 301
hnh xen k nhau.
C o Trung n sa trng thu 9 hoa vn
chng Pht.
T tt lm bng on mu nht, thu
hai chng Ha v Sn, bn trn c 2 chic mc
bng thau m vng.
Ngc bi 2 di, mi di 1 ngc hnh (hnh
chic khnh), 2 ngc c (hnh ch nht), cc loi ngc
hong (hnh bn nguyt), xung nha (hnh rng) tr Gia Hng vng mc Cn
Min 9 lu 9 chng. (nh:
ln u dng ng m vng, t ngc hnh Trnh Bch cung cp).
tr xung tht vi nm dy chp xu vi trn
chu cht liu ngc (ngc liu chu), pha trn c mc thau m vng.
i th pha trn
lm bng on mu
nht, thu hai chng Vng cng triu Nguyn bi t mc Cn Min 9 lu 9 chng. (BAVH).
Ha, Sn; pha di ni
vi cc tua ng sc.
i i pha trong
mu son pha ngoi mu
lc, ni vi cch i mu
nht, 6 ming ai hnh
vung, qu trm sc pha
trc, b mt u khm
i mi, vin vng.
Cn Min 9 lu 9 chng. T tt v i th u thu hai Vng cn, hia, bt tt
chng Ha v Sn. (BAVH).
u nh Triu phc.(1)

1. (Vit) Hi in - Quyn 78. Tr.20-21. Nguyn vn:

Cn phc 9 chng ca vua Triu Tin. Long 2 vai, Sn lng, cc chng

Ha, Hoa trng, Tng di mi chng 3 hnh ng tay o. (Hn Quc phc ch).

BNG SO SNH QUY CH CN MIN 9 LU 9 CHNG CA
302 HONG T NH NGUYN VIT NAM VI NH MINH TRUNG QUC
(theo Khm nh i Nam hi in s l, Minh hi in)
Quy ch ca nh Nguyn Quy ch ca nh Minh
Vit Nam
b. Cn Min 6 lu 5 chng, 4 lu 3 chng
303
Theo quy ch Cn Min ca nh Minh, Hong mc Cn Min 12
lu 12 chng, hong t, vng cng mc Cn Min 9 lu 9 chng, qun
vng mc Cn Min 7 lu 7 chng, b quan vn v t nht phm tr
Trung Quc
xung u mc Triu phc Lng Quan lm l, khng c mc Cn Min.

-M Min: Min bn trc trn, -M Min: Min bn trc trn,

sau vung, pha trc v sau u 9 sau vung, pha trc v sau u
lu, mi lu lm bng to ng sc, 9 lu, mi lu lm bng to ng
9 tu, xu 9 ngc; trm ng, dy sc, 9 tu, xu 9 ngc ng sc xen
hong mu huyn nh tua mu k; trm ngc, ngc hnh, dy
; dy khong mu xanh, sung m mu huyn, dy khong mu
nh cht ngc trn mu trng xanh, sung nh dng ngc xanh,
Hong dy hong mu , ngc trn mu
trng
-Cn phc mu xanh, thu 5 -Cn phc en huyn, thu 5
t , chng Sn, Long, Hoa trng, chng Sn, Long, Hoa trng,
Tng di, Ha; Long 2 vai, Sn Tng di, Ha; Long hai vai, Sn
lng, cc chng Ha, Hoa trng, lng, cc chng Ha, Hoa trng,
Tng di mi chng 3 hnh ng Tng di mi chng 3 hnh ng
vng tay o; c o cng mu vi mu o tay o; c o cng mu vi mu o Cn Min 6 Lu 5 Chng v 4 Lu 3 Chng ca cc quan triu Nguyn. (BAVH).

-Thng mu nht: thu 4 -Thng mu nht: thu 4

cng chng To, Phn m, Ph, Pht, chng To, Phn m, Ph, Pht,
mi chng 2 hnh mi chng 2 hnh Tuy nhin, theo quy ch ca nh Nguyn, cc quan t chnh nh
-o Trung n may bng sa trng, -o Trung n may bng sa trng, phm tr ln c mc Cn Min 6 lu 5 chng, cc quan vn tng nh
thu 9 chng Pht c o mu xanh, thu 11 chng phm v chnh tam phm c mc Cn Min 4 lu 3 chng(1). y li
Pht
l quy ch Thu Min v Hy Min p dng cho cc quan nh Tng. Tng
-T tt mu nht, thu 2 -T tt mu nht, thu 4
chng Ha v Sn chng To, Phn m, Ph, Pht
s ghi nhn: Thu Min 6 lu, o 3 chng, thu H du di (tc Tng di),
To, Phn m. Thng 2 chng, thu Ph, Pht [] cc chc th lang
-i th pha trn thu hai chng -i th 4 mu nh tiu th 3
Ha, Sn, pha di ni vi tua mu kt 2 ngc hon gia ca su b c mc; Hy Min 4 lu, o 1 chng, thu Phn m. Thng
ng sc 2 chng, thu Ph, Pht [] Cc chc quang lc khanh, gim st ng
-Ngc bi 2 di, mi di 1 ngc -Ngc bi 2 di, mi di 1 ngc s, c sch quan, c sch quan, phn hin quan tr ln c mc.(2)
hnh, 2 ngc c; cc loi ngc hnh, 1 ngc v, 1 ngc c, 1 xung
hong, xung nha tr ln u dng nha, 2 ngc hong, di ngc v
ng m vng; t ngc hnh tr r 1 ngc hoa, 2 ngc ch; t ngc
xung tht vi nm dy chp xu hnh tr xung, tht vi 5 tua, xu 1. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.48-50. Nguyn vn:
vi trn chu cht liu ngc, pha ngc chu; pha trn c mc vng
trn c mc thau m vng

-Cch i mu nht, vin vng -Cch i c mc vng

-Tt pha trn gn h tt, may -Tt trng, giy Tch
bng gm, hia u vung mu en
2. (Trung) Tng s. Q.152 Ch. nht bch ng. D phc T. Nguyn vn:
[]
 Nh vy, mt cch tng
quan c th thy quy ch Cn
304
Min ca nh Nguyn
tham kho t hai ngun chnh
l quy ch nh Tng v nh
Minh, khp vi li nhn nh
c phn khoa trng ca triu
thn L Vn Phc ai rng
m cao, y y phc Tng Minh
vy. Trong , Cn Min 9
lu 9 chng c tham kho
t quy ch Minh, cn Cn
Min 6 lu 5 chng v 4 lu
3 chng c tham kho t
quy ch Tng. D nhin, nh
chng ti cp, ton b
kiu dng hoa vn, trang sc,
cng nh s kt hp gia cc
phc sc (Thng, K y, i
th, t tt, i i v.v.) trong
b Cn phc ca Vit Nam
khng rp khun theo t l 1:1
so vi quy ch c ca Trung
Quc. Tnh hnh ny cng xy
ra tng t Triu Tin. So
snh s b tr hoa vn Ha,
Hoa trng, Tng di trn o
Cn 9 chng ca vua Triu
Tin vi o Cn 9 chng ca
vng cng triu Nguyn, c
th thy c s i ng tiu Cn Min 4 lu 3 chng ca Quan
d ny.
[]
305
Trang phc Hong v Hong thn triu Nguyn mc khi t Giao do Nguyn Vn Nhn v nm
1902 (Hong phi sc phc t thin t ch tn tht) ch l dng trang phc v theo tr tng tng ca
ha s. C l do Nguyn Vn Nhn cha c chng kin l t Nam Giao tn mt thy Cn Min.
QUY CH CN MIN CA CC QUAN NH NGUYN
(theo Hi in)
Cn Min 6 lu 5 chng Cn Min 4 lu 3 chng
Cc quan chnh nh phm Quan vn tng nh phm
tr ln v Chnh tam phm
M Min trc v sau u c 6 lu, mi M Min pha trc v sau u 4
lu 5 dy thi to, 6 tu, xu bi 6 ht chu lu, mi lu 5 thi to, 4 tu, xu
cht liu ngc; xung quanh min bn 4 vin ngc chu thi tho, cn li
qun ng khc hoa vn my r; m m u theo quy ch ca quan chnh
vng sc bc sn vng, 2 giao long vng, 1 nh phm; ring lc b i 2 hnh
kim tuyn, ch ci trm cng sc bng giao long vng
vng, cn li u theo quy ch Min phc
ca hong t v vng cng
o xanh 3 chng thu Phn m 2 hnh o xanh 1 chng thu Phn m 2
vai 1 hnh lng; To, Tng di hai tay o, hnh vai, 1 hnh lng, hai ng
mi chng 3 hnh; c o nh mu o tay o cng li thu mi bn 2 hnh;
Thng mu nht 2 chng, thu Ph, Thng mu nht 2 chng,
vn Tng Nh phm v Chnh Tam Pht mi chng 2 hnh; c o Trung n thu 2 hnh Ph v 2 hnh Pht
phm. (Phc dng. Tranh: L Tip). lm bng sa trng thu 7 hnh Pht
T tt v i th u thu chng Sn. i th trong v ngoi u lm bng l
trng, phn eo khng c vin, ch r xung vin mu lc. Ngc bi xu bi 3
vin ngc chu thi tho, cn li u theo quy ch bi, th ca hong t v cc
vng cng. ai mu nht, mt trc sc 6 ming gm hnh vung ln hnh
qu trm, b mt u khm i mi, vin ng m vng
 1.2. L phc Tch in 2. Triu phc
Tch in l mt trong nhng Theo quy ch Triu phc nm 1500 thi vua L Hin Tng, b quan
306 307
bui l quan trng ca cc nc nng nht lot i m Phc u kt hp vi B phc. Vo thi Nguyn, m
nghip. t nht t nm 987, vua L Phc u vn c p dng lm m Triu phc cho vn v b quan,
i Hnh ln u cy rung Tch song c phn lm ba loi: m Phc u dng trn dnh cho quan vn,
in. Tuy nhin, do s khut lp ca m Phc u dng vung dnh cho quan v v m Phc u nh thm
s liu, chng ta hin khng th bit 2 sng bc gi l m Gii Tri p dng cho Php quan (cc quan thc thi
c loi trang phc s dng vo dp php lut v ng s). M Triu phc ca hong thn, thn vng nh
l Tch in ca vua quan cc triu i Nguyn ch yu c ba loi: m Bnh nh, m Kim Quan v m Phc
inh, Tin L, L, Trn, H, Hu L. u vung.
Song chng ti ng rng, L phc Tch Ngoi ra, vo thi Nguyn, quy ch B t Triu phc thi L Trung
in ca cc triu i trc y c l Hng c thay i, quay tr li lm Thng phc nh quy ch triu L
khng nm ngoi cc b Triu phc v s v triu Minh. Song i vi cc chc quan lc phm, tht phm, o
Thng phc, c chng xut hin mt bo Triu phc vn s dng B phc kt hp vi m Phc u. Ring
Thng phc v Triu phc ca cc quan
vi bin cch nh tng t nh quy triu Nguyn. (BAVH). o bo Triu phc ca cc quan t nht phm n ng phm ln lt
ch ca triu Nguyn. c phn bit l cc loi Mng bo (cn gi l o bo T linh, thu hnh long, ln,
i vi quy ch L phc Tch in ca vua quan triu Nguyn, Hi quy, phng), Giao bo (o bo giao long) v Hoa bo (o bo hoa).
in ghi nhn, L phc ca hong l m Cu Long ng Cn kt a. Tht Long ng Cn
hp vi Long bo hp tay mu vng. Nm 1827, L phc Tch in ca Nm 1811, Triu phc
cc quan vn v chp s c quy nh l o Thi bo hp tay mu ca hong thi t c quy
lam. Quan v i m H u, quan vn i m Vn Cng, m Xun nh, m dng Tht Long
Thu. Bt, cu phm i Anh Cn, o Thi y hp tay. ai lng la mu ng Cn sc vng v
lam(1); nm 1849, L phc Tch in ca hong t v cc vng cng ngc chu. o bo rng
c quy nh l m Kim Quan, o Thi bo hp tay mu . Trong (2) mu sm. Thng thu
, m Cu Long ng Cn, m H u, Vn Cng, Xun Thu, Anh rng 5 mng. ai sc vng
Cn l m Thng phc ca vua v vn v b quan; m Kim Quan l tr rng.(1) Loi m Triu
m Triu phc ca hong t v thn vng. C iu, khc vi quy ch phc Tht Long ng Cn
Thng phc B t, L phc Tch in ca vua quan nh Nguyn l s ca hong thi t c kiu
kt hp gia m Thng phc v cc loi o Thi bo, Thi y hp tay, tc dng tng t m Thng
loi o c thu hoa vn sc s, tng t nh o bo Triu phc. triu Cu Long ng Cn
Quy ch c th ca cc loi m H u, Vn Cng, Xun Thu, Anh ca hong , song s lng
Vua Bo i khi cn l Hong thi t v Hong thi t
Cn, Kim Quan chng ti s tip tc trnh by phn sau. trang sc trn m c s gia Bo Long mc Triu phc.
gim. Bc nh vua Bo i

1. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.48. Nguyn vn:

1. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.17. Nguyn vn:
2. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.19. Nguyn vn:
 QUY CH TRIU PHC BNH NH NM 1845
(theo Hi in)
308 309

Hong t, hong thn c Hong t, hong thn c phong

phong tc thn vng, tc thn cng, quc cng
qun vng

M 6 hoa vng, 6 rng, (?) giao
Bnh long, 24 vn kh, 10 ngn la,
nh 4 nhiu tuyn, 4 hnh c
v 4 thy vn, nh m tr 2
hnh long vn, bao nh tr 4
hnh long vn, 28 bin bao
4 hoa vng, 4 rng, 2 giao long, 24
vn kh, 10 ngn la, 4 nhiu tuyn,
2 hnh c v 2 thy vn, nh m
tr 2 hnh long vn, bao nh tr 4
hnh long vn, 28 bin bao

Long bo c trn, mu sm (i Xch) ca vua ng Khnh khi cn lm Hong Thi t. o bo o bo i vn mu sm o bo T linh mu i xch lm
lm bng on Bt ti ng sc bng on Bt ti ng sc gia kim
gia kim
khi cn l Hong thi t v bc nh Hong thi t ai Trc sau c 18 ming, b Phi tri trc sau 18 ming; ai
Bo Long trong l tn phong u th hin b Triu mt tr hnh mng khm ca thn cng b mt tr hnh k
vng, cc ming ai u bc ln khm vng, u bc vng; ai
phc ny. vng ca quc cng ming chnh gia
b. Bnh nh (Bnh Thin) pha trc tr hnh k ln khm
vng, 4 ming hnh dt bn phi
Nm 1816, Triu phc ca cc v hong t, v tri b mt tr hnh hoa khm
hong tn, cng t c quy nh, m dng m vng, 13 ming cn li b mt khm
gng, cc ming ai xen k nhau,
Bnh Thin sc vng v ngc chu. o bo dng u bc vng
Mng bo c trn, mu sm. Thng thu rng Thng Lm bng sa mt mu hoa xch ng sc gia kim, thu hnh k ln
4 mng. ai sc vng rng 4 mng. (1)
Tuy nhin
16 nm sau, vua Minh Mng ra li d, quy nh
i tn m Bnh Thin thnh m Bnh nh v cho
rng tn Bnh Thin l tn nm na khng c in
nh, v li hai ch Bnh Thin cng khng phi t
dnh cho phn b ti(2), ng thi quy nh, m
Bnh nh l m Triu phc p dng cho hong Tuy L vng Min
t, hong thn c phong tc thn vng, qun Trinh v Hong Ha
Qun vng Min
vng, thn cng, qun cng. Trin i m Bnh nh
(BAVH).

1. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.19. Nguyn vn:
. Tr.36. Nguyn vn:
2. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.21. Nguyn vn:
M Kim quan. 1. M trong chn dung Tng thin vng Min Thm (mi tn : Bc Sn vng);
2, 4. M lu gi ti Bo tng Qun s Php (nh: Nguyn Nh an Huyn); 3. M lu gi ti
BTLSVN (nh: TQ). gii: 1.Hu x; 2. H k; 3. H Nh; 4. Giao long; 5. Vn kh; 6. Hoa;
7. Thy vn.
 c. Kim Quan d. Phc u
Theo Hi in, m Kim Quan kt hp vi o bo T linh mu l M Phc u c p dng
310 311
Triu phc ca hong t, hong thn c phong tc qun cng, huyn rng ri lm m Triu phc cho b
cng, hng cng, huyn hu v hng hu. quan vn v v mt s v hong t,
hong thn, tn tht triu Nguyn.
Trong , m Phc u trn c
quy nh l m Triu phc ca quan
vn, m Phc u vung l m Triu
phc ca quan v (ngoi tr quan bt, cu
phm)(1), ng thi cng l m Triu M Phc u trn, m Phc u vung,
m Gii Tri. (BAVH).
phc ca cc v tn tht c phong
tc thn vng, qun vng, thn
cng, quc cng, qun cng, huyn
cng, hng cng, huyn hu, hng
hu, cc v hong t, hong thn, tn
tht c phong tc k ngoi hu,
k ni hu, nh hu, tr quc khanh, Hin vt m Phc u vung ca quan
v Nht phm triu Nguyn (b su tp
t quc khanh, phng quc khanh, c nhn).
Tng Thin vng Min Thm (1819 - 1870), i m Kim Quan; Quc cu triu tr quc y, t quc y, phng quc Trang sc: 1. Bc sn (cn gi l kha
Nguyn lm ch hn trong m ci ca cng cha, i m Kim quan. (BAVH). kiu); 2. Hoa; 3. Giao long; 4. Ngch
y, tr quc lang, t quc lang, phng tng; 5. Kha gin (cn gi l ht); 6.
quc lang(2). Ngoi ra, loi m Phc Nh ; 7. Nhiu tuyn.
QUY CH M KIM QUAN NM 1845
u c nh hai sng bc trang
(theo Hi in)
sc bc sn, gi l m Gii Tri, l
m Triu phc ca ng s, ph
Hong t, hong thn c Hong t, hong thn c
phong tc qun cng, phong hng cng, huyn hu, ng s v cc chc khoa o chng
huyn cng hng hu n(3).
M Sc 2 bc sn vng, pha trc v Sc 2 bc sn vng, trc v sau 2 Quy ch Triu phc Phc u
Kim sau 3 hoa vng, pha trc 4 giao hoa vng, cn li ging hong t, ca b quan triu Nguyn c t
Quan long vng, trn nh 2 hnh my, thn vng c phong huyn
1 hu x (cnh sau), 1 h k (bm cng nh ln u tin vo nm 1804 thi Trang sc m Phc u. 1. Bc sn vng
h), 2 h nh (tai h), 6 vn kh, vua Gia Long, c chnh sa vo kha kiu vng; 2. Cnh chun vin bc
nh m tr 1 thy vn, 4 ngn vng, u sc vng, b mt nh giao long
la, u kt chui ht gi chu nm 1845 thi vua Thiu Tr. Quy ch vng; 3. Giao long vng; 4. Kha gin
o bo o bo T linh mu hoa xch lm bng on Bt ti ng sc gia kim nm 1845, v c bn tng t quy ch vng Ht vng.

ai Ming chnh gia pha trc tr hnh k ln khm vng, 17 ming

cn li b mt khm gng, u bc vng
Thng Lm bng sa mt mu hoa xch ng sc gia kim, thu hnh k ln 1. (Vit) i Nam in l tot yu. Nguyn vn:
2. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.25-31.
3. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.56-57.
 nm 1804, song tn gi ca mt s loi trang sc v s lng trang sc Hong t, 1 bc sn bc, 2 kha
trn m c s thay i. Nh thi Gia Long, trang sc bc sn c gi thn vng, tn gin vng, trc sau
312 tht c phong k 1 hoa vng; hai cnh 313
l kha kiu, ht (trang sc trn m) c gi l kha gin v.v. Ngoi ra, t ngoi hu, k ni chun vin bc bc; 2
nm 1845 tr v sau, ch c cc quan t lc phm tr ln mi c mc hu, nh hu, tr nh bc, 2 nhiu tuyn
quc khanh bc
Triu phc.
Hong t, 1 bc sn bc, 2 kha
thn vng, tn gin bc, trc sau 1
tht c phong t hoa bc; hai cnh chun
BNG SO SNH QUY CH TRANG SC M PHC U quc khanh, phng vin bc bc; 2 nh
NM 1804 V NM 1845 quc khanh, tr bc, 2 nhiu tuyn bc
quc y, t quc y
(theo Hi in)
Hong t, thn Trc sau 1 hoa bc, hai
vng, tn tht cnh chun vin bc
B quan Quy ch nm 1804 Quy ch nm 1845 c phong phng bc, 2 nh bc, 2 nhiu
quc y, tr quc tuyn bc.
lang, t quc lang,
Trn -Phc u trn: Tn tht c 1 bc sn vng, 1 ngch phng quc lang
nht 1 kha kiu vng, phong tc thn tng vng cao 4 phn
phm 2 ht vng cao 6 vng, qun vng tr hnh giao long, 2
(Tn phn; ngch tng kha gin vng, pha Chnh -Chnh nht phm: -Chnh nht phm: 1 bc sn vng, 1 ngch
nhn vng, hoa vng trc 1 hoa vng, 2 giao tng nh quan trn nht tng vng cao 4 phn, pha ngoi tr hnh
ph tn mt trc v sau, long vng, pha sau nht phm (1 kha kiu giao long; 2 kha gin vng; pha trc 1 hoa
nhn hai cnh chun 2 hoa vng; hai cnh phm vng, 2 ht vng vng, 2 giao long vng; pha sau 2 hoa vng;
lnh) vin bc vng, sc chun vin bc vng, cao 6 phn; ngch hai cnh chun vin bc vng, b mt sc giao
giao long vng b mt sc giao long tng vng, hoa long bn ngc bng vng, u cnh chun u
vng vn ngc chu, vng mt trc v sc vng; 2 nh vng, 2 nhiu tuyn vng
-Phc u vung: u cnh chun u sc sau, hai cnh chun -Tng nht phm: nh chnh nht phm; ring
1 kha kiu vng, vng; 2 nh vng, 2 vin bc vng, sc ngch tng cao 3 phn, tr hnh hoa; mt
2 ht vng 5 phn; nhiu tuyn vng giao long vng) m khng c ngc chu; u hai cnh chun
cn li nh trn -Tng nht phm: khng sc vng
1 kha kiu vng, 2
ht vng cao 5 phn,
Tn tht c Nh trn, ring ngch
cn li nh quan
phong tc thn tng cao 3 phn tr
trn nht phm
cng, quc cng hnh hoa; hai cnh
chun sc giao long
vng, u cnh chun
Chnh 1 kha kiu vng, -Chnh nh phm: 1 bc sn vng; 2 kha gin
khng sc vng l khc
tng nh hoa vng mt vng; pha trc 1 hoa vng, 2 giao long vng;
bit
phm trc v sau, hai pha sau 2 hoa vng; hai cnh chun vin bc
Tn tht c Nh tn tht c cnh chun vin vng, b mt sc giao long vng; 2 nh vng,
phong tc qun phong tc thn cng, bc vng, sc giao 2 nhiu tuyn vng
cng, huyn cng quc cng, nhng long vng -Tng nh phm: nh chnh nh phm; ring
khng c ngch tng b trang sc giao long mt m

Tn tht c So vi tn tht c Chnh 1 kha kiu vng, -Chnh tam phm: 1 bc sn vng; 2 kha gin
phong hng cng, phong tc qun cng, tng hoa vng mt vng; pha trc pha sau u c 1 hoa vng; 2
huyn hu, hng m Phc u vung tam trc v mt sau; giao long vng; 2 cnh chun vin bc vng; 2
hu lc i 1 hoa vng pha phm hai cnh chun nh vng, 2 nhiu tuyn vng
sau, mt m lc trang vin bc vng -Tng tam phm: nh chnh tam phm; ring
sc giao long vng b 2 giao long vng
 Chnh 1 kha kiu bc, hoa 1 bc sn bc; 2 kha gin vng; pha trc v
bo mu quan lc. Quan ng phm mc
tng t vng mt trc v sau u 1 hoa vng; hai cnh chun vin bc B phc Vn nhn mu bo lam, o bo
314 phm sau, hai cnh chun vng; 2 nh bc; 2 nhiu tuyn bc 315
vin bc vng lm bng tru thu hoa. Quan lc phm
mc B phc Bch nhn mu ngc lam, o
Chnh 1 kha kiu bc, hoa 1 bc sn bc; 2 kha gin bc; pha trc v
tng bc mt trc v sau u 1 hoa bc; hai cnh chun vin bc lm bng tru bng khng thu hoa.
ng sau, hai cnh chun bc; 2 nh bc; 2 nhiu tuyn bc
Nam phng danh vt b kho chp:
phm vin bc bc
Mng bo l o i triu ca cc quan t
Chnh Hoa bc mt trc Pha trc, sau u c 1 hoa bc; hai cnh
tng v sau, hai cnh chun vin bc bc; 2 nh bc, 2 nhiu tuyn tam phm tr ln, thu hnh mng. Quan
lc chun vin bc bc bc chnh nht phm mu ng hng, tng
phm
nht phm mu xanh, chnh nh phm
Chnh Hoa bc trc sau
tng u 1 bng, hai mu bic, tng nh phm mu lc, chnh
tht cnh chun vin tam phm mu bo lam, tng tam phm
phm trn
Vng cn, li bc tc, ai, ht, mu ngc lam. Giao bo l o i triu ca
Hia. (BAVH).
quan t phm, thu hnh giao long. Lam
e. Bo phc
bo l o i triu ca quan ng phm v lc phm, o ca quan ng
Quy ch Triu phc m Phc u
phm thu thm hoa. Hoa bo l o vua ban cho cc v tam khi. Lc bo
kt hp vi B phc thi L Trung Hng
l o vua ban cho tin s.(1)
vn tip tc c p dng i vi cc
Ti Trung Quc, Mng bo xut
chc quan ng, lc phm triu Nguyn.
hin t thi Minh, c gi l Mng y
Bn cnh , quy ch triu Nguyn quy
hoc Mng phc, nu khng c vua
nh: cc quan nht, nh, tam phm mc
c ban, b quan khng c s dng.
Mng bo; quan t phm theo quy ch
Vo thi Thanh, Mng bo c s
nm 1804 mc Hoa bo, t nm 1845 tr
dng lm L phc cho hong t, thn
v sau i sang mc Giao bo.
vng v vn v b quan, phn nhiu
V sc phc ca o bo i Triu,
c dng trong cc dp l tt ln nh
theo Hi in, quy ch nm 1804 quy
l Vn Th, Tt Thng Nguyn v Tt
nh, o bo Triu phc dnh cho cc
Nguyn n v.v.
quan trn nht phm l Mng bo c
Khm nh i Thanh hi in
trn mu ta, t nht phm tr xung,
cho bit: Mng bo, mu lam v mu
cc mu xanh, lc, lam, en cho c ty Quan ng phm triu Nguyn mc
Triu phc. (nh: Nguyn Giang).
thch thanh cho c ty nghi s dng,
nghi. Quy ch ny c sa i vo nm
vin vng. Thn vng, qun vng
Mng bo rng my sng nc dnh cho
1845, lc ny cc quan t Tam phm tr ln u mc Mng bo, trong
thng dng o bo thu 9 hnh mng. Hong t triu Thanh (Thanh Hi in).
quan trn nht phm mc mu ta, quan chnh nht phm mc mu
c ng, tng nht phm mc mu thin thanh, chnh nh phm mc
mu cam bch, tng nh phm mc mu quan lc, chnh tam phm mc 1. (Vit) Nam phng danh vt b kho - Thng - Phc dng mn. Nguyn vn:
mu bo lam, tng tam phm mu ngc lam. Quan t phm mc Giao

 Bi lc tr xung ti cc tham kho b cc rng my,
quan vn v tam phm, sng nc ca Mng bo Trung
316 317
qun qun ngch ph, Quc giai on cui Minh u
phng quc tng qun, Thanh. Tuy nhin, Mng bo ca b
nht ng th v u dng quan triu Nguyn cn c thu
o bo thu 9 hnh mng hnh phng, k ln v ra, ng
bn mng. Quan vn v thi c tn gi l o bo T linh.
t, ng, lc phm, phng Nm 1832 vua Minh Mng ra ch
n tng qun, huyn d, xa nay o bo ca quan tam
qun ngch ph, nh ng phm tr ln, tc gi l o bo T
Mt trc v mt sau ca Mng bo v Hoa bo triu
Nguyn. (BAVH).
th v tr xung dng o linh, c hnh rng nm trong s
bo thu 8 hnh mng bn [] cch gi nh vy u khng ph
mng. Quan vn v tht, bt, cu phm, quan v nhp lu dng o bo hp, bi hnh phng, ln, ra ch
thu 5 hnh mng bn mng. Vt o, tn tht, thn vng tr xung u x l hnh ph ha m thi, ch cn gi
bn vt, b quan vn v ch x hai vt trc sau. Ti Vit Nam, quy ch
(1)
Mng bo l c.(1) Mt khc, trn Cc quan v mc Triu phc; Mt trong ba v
Mng bo c p dng lm Triu phc cho b quan vn v ng Trong lng o bo triu Nguyn cn bo Tam khi triu Nguyn mc o Hoa bo, ci
hoa bc trn m. Quan nh phm mc Mng
k t nm 1744 sau ci cch ca cha Nguyn Phc Khot. i Nam thc lu hai cnh l ph hu thi Minh bo v quan t phm mc Giao bo. (nh:
lc ghi: Cha [] chm chc ch cc i, nh Triu phc vn v. Vn (nh L Trung Hng cng m phng dng thc Albert Kahn).

t qun b n chim hu, hun o, v t chng dinh n cai i, m ny), ph kin ny khng xut hin trn o bo ca cc quan nh Thanh
sc vng bc, o dng Trung Quc.
Mng bo hoc gm Ngoi ra, khc vi quy ch o mo thi L Trung Hng, bt k
on theo cp bc. (2)
Cn phc, L phc, Triu phc hay Thng phc ca vua quan triu
L Qu n cng ghi Nguyn u phi vi thng - K y, mt dng xim o mc lt bn trong
nhn sau ci cch ny,
cc quan ng Trong
dng Mng bo thy
ba (hoa vn sng nc), m
mo dng vng bc
trang sc(3). 1. Mng bo (Bo tng Lch s Vit Nam. nh: TQ); 2. Mng
Mng bo triu bo mu ta ca quan Chnh nht phm v B phc Vn nhn
ca quan ng phm (Bo tng Qun s Php. nh: Nguyn Nh
Nguyn nhn chung an Huyn).

1. (Trung) Khm nh i Thanh hi in - Q.47. Nguyn vn:

Xim - thng ca quan triu Nguyn.


2. (Vit) i Nam thc lc. Tp I. Tr.153. 1. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.50. Nguyn vn: []
3. (Vit) Ph bin tp lc. Nguyn vn:
Hin vt Mng bo triu Nguyn (nh: Trnh Bch). Hin vt Mng bo (nh: Philippe Trng), Giao bo triu Nguyn (nh: Trnh Bch).
Hong phi sc phc t thin t ch tn tht (Nguyn Vn Nhn v nm 1902). nh 1: Hong nh 3: Hong thn mc Triu phc m Kim Quan - Mng bo. nh 4: Quan vn Chnh, Tng
, thi gim, hip lnh th v mc Triu phc. nh 2: Quan vn Chnh nht phm mc Triu phc Ng phm mc Triu phc Phc u - Hoa bo (Theo Hi in v t liu nh chp chng ti c,
Phc u - Mng bo. quan Ng phm khng mc Hoa bo m mc B phc. Hoa bo ch dnh cho cc v Tam khi).
 o bo. Tuy nhin, thng ca
vua quan nh Nguyn khc vi
322
loi thng Tin phc c s
dng ph bin thi L - Trn.
Thng thi L - Trn l loi
vy quy mu en gp np, cn
thng thi Nguyn gn vi o
cc tay c trn, ng thi c
thu ln v s hoa vn my B quan nh Nguyn trong bui chu Thng triu.
nc, c , bt bo v linh th. y c th coi l quy ch trang phc
mc lt c o ca ring triu Nguyn.
3. Thng phc
Quy ch Triu phc ca b quan nh Nguyn c t nh da
trn hai ngun tham kho chnh l quy ch B phc ca triu L Trung
Hng v kiu dng Mng bo ca Trung Quc giai on cui Minh u
Thanh. Cn trong quy ch Thng phc,
triu nh nh Nguyn tip tc kt hp quy
ch B phc ca triu L Trung Hng vi
quy ch B phc ca nh Minh, song song
vi vic t nh mt s dng m mo c
o nh m Vn Cng, H u, ng Pha,
Xun Thu v.v. c bit, B phc ca nh L
v nh Minh l dng o bo on lnh c
trn gn B t, nh Nguyn k tha mt
phn quy ch ny p dng lm Triu phc
cho cc quan ng, lc, tht phm. Quy ch
Thng phc li quy nh B T nh ln
o giao lnh.
3.1. Quy ch m mo
a. M Vn Cng
M Vn Cng l m Thng phc p
chnh l loi m c cc quan triu
Ty Sn s dng t th k XVIII qua li
323
ghi nhn ca vn thn Triu Tin Kim
Chnh Trung.
Kt hp vi m Vn Cng l B
phc giao lnh. Trong , o giao lnh
c lm bng sa, on, cc mu xanh,
lc, lam, en c ty nghi, ring c
o trng(1). B t dnh cho quan nht,
nh phm l Tin hc, B t ca quan
M ng Pha, Vn T Ti (BAVH). tam phm l Cm k. Thng, hia v
Quan vn Lc phm i m ng Pha.
tt tng t quy ch i triu.
b. M ng Pha, Vn T Ti, Phong Cn
Nam phng danh vt b kho ch r: M ng Pha l m Thng
triu ca quan vn lc phm tr ln, m Vn T Ti l m Thng triu
ca quan vn cu phm tr ln.(2) Theo Hi
in, m Vn T Ti cn c p dng lm
m Thng phc cho quan v tng tht phm,
tng bt phm v tng cu phm (quan v tht
phm tr xung ch t tng, khng t chnh).
Quan vn cha nhp lu c quy nh
i m Phong Cn. y cng chnh l m L
phc ca dn gian, p dng cho th dn sau khi
trn 20 tui, c tnh cht tng t nh loi m
Sa n dng ca triu L Trung Hng. Quc
s di bin ghi nhn, vn giai cha nhp lu,
s t thi , hoc mn i nhiu hc, hoc su
nm nhiu hc, m dng Phong Cn, trc sau
m thu hoa bc u mt ci, mc theo thn
phn mnh, o giao lnh, sa on cc sc xanh, Lm m T Ti (K thut
lc, lam, en, khng B t. Th dn cha lm ca ngi An Nam).

dng cho quan vn nht, nh, tam phm,

M Vn Cng (BAVH); Quan vn
mc Thng phc Vn Cng. (Vit trang sc ton bng vng, c hai di Anh
. (Vit) Nam phng danh vt b kho. Nguyn vn:
Nam qua tranh khc). sc hoa vng khm ngc chu(1). y cng 1. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78 - Vn v quan phc. Nguyn vn:

2. (Vit) Nam phng danh vt b kho. Nguyn vn:
1. (Vit) i Nam in l tot yu. Nguyn vn:
 quan: phm c vic nghi l gia hin nay c chiu hng khoa trng sc s, thiu nhng nt tinh t v
quan, m dng Phong Cn sc v in nh ca Phong Cn ngy xa.
324 325
en, khng thu hoa, o dng
o giao lnh mu thm, giy, tt QUY CH M THNG PHC
u mu en.(1) Loi m Phong CA B QUAN NH NGUYN (1804)
Cn trong dn gian vn c gi (theo Hi in)
l m T Ti. i Nam quc m
Cc chc sc trong lng mc L phc Phong Cn,
Quan vn Ng phm mc Thng triu phc t v nh ngha m T ti cng Quan vn Quan v
ng Pha. (nh: Albert Kahn). l mo gia l. Trn nht Vn Cng: sc ton vng, hai di H u: sc ton vng
phm thy anh trang sc kim hoa khm
ngc chu
Nht phm Vn Cng: sc ton vng H u

Nh phm Vn Cng H u
Tam phm Vn Cng H u
T phm ng Pha: Hoa vng mt trc Xun Thu
v sau, cc trang sc nh hoa,
giao long u dng bc
Ng phm ng Pha: pha trc 2 hoa bc, 2 Xun Thu
giao long bc; pha sau 1 hoa bc
2 giao long bc
Lc phm ng Pha: pha trc 1 hoa bc, 2 Xun Thu (Quan v tht
giao long bc; pha sau 1 hoa bc phm tr xung ch t
tng, khng t chnh)

Cc s t ti trng thi Nam nh i m Phong Cn, mc o giao lnh. Hi in Tht phm Vn T Ti: pha trc 1 hoa bc, Tng tht phm i Vn T
cho bit L phc ca dn gian l m Phong Cn kt hp vi o giao lnh, giy 2 giao long bc, pha sau 1 Ti nh vn chnh
tt u mu thm en. Quc S di bin cn ghi nhn m Phong Cn, o giao hoa bc tht phm
lnh l trang phc dng trong l Gia Quan dnh cho nam gii khi trn 20 tui. Bt phm Vn T Ti: pha trc 1 hoa bc, Tng bt phm i Vn T
sau 1 hoa bc Ti nh vn chnh bt phm
i chiu m t ca s liu vi t liu tranh nh u th k XX, c Cu phm Vn T Ti: pha trc 1 hoa bc Tng cu phm i Vn T
bit l hnh v m ng Pha, Vn T Ti ca Tn Tht Sa trong BAVH, c Ti nh chnh cu phm
th thy trn thc t m ng Pha, Vn T Ti, Phong Cn u c kiu Cha nhp Phong Cn: trc sau u sc 1 Anh Cn: trc sau u sc
dng tng t, c phn bit bi quy ch trang sc v mt s chi tit lu si bc 1 si bc

nh kt cu m. Do m Phong Cn, m T Ti c quy nh l m L

phc ca dn gian, nn vn c duy tr n ngy hm nay, vi t cch c. M H u
l m t s dng trong cc dp t l hi h ca ngi Vit. C iu, m t Vo thng 2 nm 2011, mt pho tng v tng lm bng t nung,
i m hnh u h, mc o gip c pht hin ti x Ph Thun,
huyn c Ph, tnh Qung Ngi(1). Loi m th hin trn pho tng
1. (Vit) Quc s di bin. 1821. Tp trung 16a. Nguyn vn:

1. Qung Ngi: Tm thy mt pho tng qu. Bo Si Gn Gii phng Online. Bi ng ngy 17/03/2011.
326

Cc v quan triu Nguyn i m H u, mc o Mng lan.

ny v c bn khp vi loi m trn tng ngi thi Trn. Cn lu

rng, vo nm 1756, cha Nguyn Phc Khot ln u tin lnh cho ba
qun tng s ng Trong i H Th u mo, hay cn gi l H u
mo(1). Gia hai loi m th hin trn hai pho tng khng ng i ny 1. Quan v tam phm i m H u, mc B phc;
2. M H u (BAVH).
cha chc c mi quan h k tha trc tip, song c th u c m
phng theo quy ch H quan thi ng. Tuy nhin, c th khng nh,
m H quan thi ng khng c mi lin h v mt to hnh vi m
H u (H u quan) ca cc v quan triu Nguyn.
Vo thi Nguyn, t nm 1804, m H u kt hp vi B phc K
ln, Bch trch, S t c quy nh l Thng phc ca quan v nht,
nh, tam phm. Nm 1845, vua Thiu Tr ph chun cho cc quan v gi
cc chc thng qun, cai qun cc qun doanh cho n chng ph
thng, thng ch, chng v, v y, ph v y u c i m H u
kt hp vi o Mng lan(2).
o Mng lan l dng o hp tay, c li thu sc tng t nh Mng
bo, song chiu di vt o v ng tay o u ngn hn Mng bo. Hi in
cho bit: Trc y o hp tay ca quan vin th v c gi l o Long B t K ln ca triu Nguyn (Silken threads- Thng phc m H u, B phc K ln, o
A History of Embroidery in China, Korea, Japan giao lnh c trng ca quan v nht phm triu
Chn, nh vy khng ph hp [] nay gi o hp tay l Mng lan mi phi. and Vietnam). Nguyn (Phc dng. Tranh: L Tip).
T ry khng c gi theo cch gi trc kia lm r danh phn.(3)

1. (Vit) D s lc bin i Vit quc Nguyn triu thc lc - Q.8. Tr.14. Nguyn vn:
1756
2. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.57. Nguyn vn:

3. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.50. Nguyn vn: []

 QUY CH M H U, O MNG LAN chng ti hin cha th lm r c thn phn ca nhng ngi i m
DNH CHO CC CHC QUAN CAI QUN, Xun Thu trong mt s bc nh ny. Song d sao, m Xun Thu cng
328 329
THNG QUN QUN DOANH V NM 1845 l mt loi m ht sc c bit bi tnh ph dng ca n trong cung
(theo Hi in) nh nh Nguyn, khi va l m L phc ca vua, ng thi cng l m
Thng phc ca mt s hong thn v cc chc quan nh.
M H u o Mng Lan ai
Thng qun Bc sn vng, mt Mu t n, may ai ca cc QUY CH THNG PHC XUN THU
trc v sau 3 hoa bng on ng sc quan v CA HONG THN V CC QUAN V T, NG,
vng, 2 giao long, 1 h gia kim, o song ming chnh
k, 2 c , 2 thy vn, khai, thng kp gia pha LC PHM TRIU NGUYN
bin bao, nhiu tuyn trc sc (theo Hi in)
vng, tr hoa;
Cai qun 1 hoa vng pha trc, Mu tng sm cc ming
cn li nh thng qun ng phi tri M Xun Thu o giao lnh B t Thng
Chng ph Thm 2 hnh ngn la Mu t n dng mai i
thng vng mi bc vng Hong Sc ton vng C o mu K ln Nn vng
xen k bc t, hong trng; o mu Bch trch
Thng ch, M sc vng Mu mc xch bc, khng thn, tn xanh, lc, lam, S t
chng v cn m tht c en cho c
phong ty tin
V y Lc bt 2 giao long Mu tng sm tc thn
vng mt trc m vng
Ph v y Lc bt 2 giao long Mu bo lam v - qun
vng v 1 hoa vng mu thin thanh vng
-thn
cng -
quc cng;
d. M Xun Thu
qun cng
M Xun Thu va l m L phc - huyn
cng;
ca Hong , va l m Thng phc hng
ca cc quan v t, ng, lc phm triu cng -
huyn hu
Nguyn. Theo Hi in, m Xun Thu - hng
kt hp vi B phc cn l Thng hu
phc ca cc v hong t, hong thn, Hong t, Sc vng bc an C o mu H Nn
tn tht c phong tc thn vng, thn xen, pha trc v trng; o mu
vng, tn sau u c 1 hoa xanh, lc, lam,
qun vng, thn cng, quc cng, k tht c vng, cc trang en cho c
phong sc hoa, giao long ty tin
ngoi hu, k ni hu, tr quc khanh,
k ngoi u dng cht
t quc khanh, phng quc khanh v.v. hu, k liu bc
ni hu,
Tuy nhin, da trn mt s t nh hu,
liu nh chp cung nh triu Nguyn M Xun Thu (BAVH); Ngi ng u tr quc
i Nhc cng i m Xun Thu. khanh
u th k XX, chng ti nhn thy i
tng s dng m Xun Thu cn c mt s ngch quan th v, thm
ch l i trng i nhc cng (?). Do thiu t liu vn t i chiu nn
 Hong t, Pha trc 2 hoa, C o mu Bo Nn
o giao lnh. Phm cp ca b quan ngoi vic c phn bit hnh
thn 2 giao long, pha trng; o mu dng B t cn c phn bit mu sc ca c o. Trong , c o giao
330 vng, tn sau 1 hoa, 2 giao xanh, lc, lam, 331
tht c long u bng en cho c lnh ca cc quan nht, nh, tam phm mu trng; c o ca cc chc
phong bc ty tin quan cn li c mu sc ging mu o gc. o mu xanh, lc, lam, en
t quc
khanh, c s dng ty nghi (1).
phng
quc
khanh, tr
quc y, t
quc y
Hong t, Pha trc 1 hoa, C o mu Hng Nn
thn 2 giao long, pha trng; o
vng, tn sau 1 hoa u mu xanh, lc,
tht c bng bc lam, en cho
phong c ty tin
phng
quc y,
tr quc
lang, t
quc lang,
phng
quc lang L b ng (Bo tng Lch s Vit Nam).
Cng t Pha trc v sau C o nh mu H Cng t: lc
c t u 1 hoa vng, o, xanh, lc, Quan:
phong trang sc hoa, lam, en cho
tc nh giao long cn li c ty tin
hu, quan u dng bc
v t
phm
Quan v Pha trc 2 hoa C o nh mu Bo Nn
ng phm bc, 2 giao long o, xanh, lc,
bc; pha sau 1 lam, en cho
hoa bc 2 giao c ty tin
long bc
Quan v Pha trc 1 hoa C o nh mu Hng Nn
lc phm bc, 2 giao long o, xanh, lc,
bc; pha sau 1 lam, en cho
hoa bc c ty tin

3.2. Quy ch B phc

Qua so snh quy ch B t ca nh Minh, nh L Trung Hng v
nh Nguyn, c th thy quy ch ca nh Nguyn v c bn k tha quy
ch ca nh L Trung Hng, ng thi tham kho thm mt phn quy
ch ca nh Minh. Tuy nhin dng o on lnh c trn trong quy ch
B phc ca nh Minh v nh L c nh Nguyn thay th bi dng
Mt s hin vt B t ca Vit Nam: 1. Bch nhn (Bo tng Dn tc hc
Vit Nam); 2. Vn nhn (Bo tng Qun s Php. nh: Nguyn Nh an
Huyn); 3. Kh xch (nh: Trnh Bch); 4.Tin hc (Silken threads-A His-
tory of Embroidery in China, Korea, Japan and Vietnam).
1. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Nguyn vn: []
[][][].
 NH THANH NH TRIU TIN LU CU
BNG SO SNH QUY CH B T
Quan vn Quan v Quan vn Quan v Quan vn
CA NH MINH, NH L TRUNG HNG V NH NGUYN
Nht phm Tin hc K ln Khng tc H bo Cm k
(theo Minh thc lc, Ton th v Hi in)
Nh phm Cm k S t Vn nhn H bo Cm k
Tam phm Khng tc Bo Bch nhn Hng bo Khng tc
Minh L Trung Hng Nguyn
T phm Vn nhn H Vn nhn
Hong t, vng cng: Hong t, hong Hong thi t:
K ln, Bch trch thn: K ln Rng 5 mng Ng phm Bch nhn Hng Sau nm
Hong t: Rng 4 1609, quan
mng Lc phm L t Bu ch ca Lu
Tht phm Cu khng
Quan vn Quan v Quan vn Quan Quan Quan v Kh xch T ngu
t cc
v vn
Bt phm Am thun T ngu chc quan
Nht Tin hc S t Tin hc S t Tin hc K ln v, qun
Cu phm Luyn tc Hi m i cng b
phm
Php quan: Gii tri gii th
Nh Cm k S t Tin hc S t Tin hc Bch
phm trch
Tam Khng H bo Cm k Bch Cm k S t Quan phc ca tin s
phm tc trch
(theo Hi in)
T phm Vn nhn H bo Khng H Khng H
tc tc
Tin s
Ng Bch Hng bi Vn nhn Bo Vn Bo Nm
phm nhn nhn nht nht gip, nh tam gip
gip, nht nh danh, gip
Lc phm L t Bu Bch Tng Bch Hng danh tam danh
nhn nhn (gu)
M o m nh Vn T Ti
Tht Kh xch Bu Bch Tng L t Bu 1822 quan lc
phm nhn Y phc phm 1 o giao lnh may bng sa Nam, 1 thng
may bng sa Nam, 1 vng cn, 1 hia
Bt phm Hong ly T ngu Bch Tng Kh xch Hi m
nhn M Sa (mt trc, sau u nh 1 hoa bc)

Cu Am thun Hi m Bch Tng Liu T ngu Y phc o m nh o bo lm bng sa, on trn (khng vn
phm nhn thun 1838 quan lc sc) mu lam, lc; B t thu hnh my;
phm thng lm bng sa Nam, ming B t thu 2
Php Gii tri bn cng thu hnh my; ai bc ng; vng
quan cn, hia.
Cha Luyn tc Khng dng B T M Sa (1 hoa Sa Sa Sa
nhp lu vng pha (1 hoa bc (pha (pha trc v
trc, 1 hoa m vng pha trc v sau u 1 hoa
bc pha sau; trc, 1 hoa sau u 1 bc, 2 cnh
BNG SO SNH QUY CH B T 1840 bc sn bc, bc pha sau, hoa bc, 2 khng vin
CA NH THANH, NH TRIU TIN V LU CU 2 cnh vin 2 cnh vin cnh vin bc)
bc) bc) bc)
(theo Thanh s co, Triu Tin oan Tng thc lc, Cu dng k s)
 III. TRANG PHC HU PHI
Y phc -o bo mu lc may bng on Bt ti i Hoa, ai bc on
Xch v, 1 ming pha trc bc bc m vng, 2 ming bc 335
bc, u mt i mi, 7 ming cn li bc ng, mt sng
en; thng may bng sa, on tn hoa mu lam; B t nn
thu Bch nhn; vng cn, hia, ht g
-Ring tam gip: B t nn thu L t; ai sc sng en,
3 ming bc bc, 7 ming bc ng; cn li nh trn
1847 B t Vn nhn Bch nhn L t

Quan phc ca c nhn (1807)

v v c nhn (1846)
Hoa vn loan thu trn o ca hu phi triu Nguyn (Bo tng M
thut Cung nh Hu. nh: TQ).
C nhn vn C nhn v
M Vn T Ti (mt trc, Vin nh (nh trn, Trc thi Nguyn, chim phng khng ch l hnh tng ngm v
sau u nh 1 hoa bc) mu en, lm bng vi hu phi, mnh ph m cn c p dng lm trang sc trn vt dng
lnh Nam trn, trc
sc hoa bc, trn nh ca vua cha, vng hu, nhm nh r trt t tn ti, nh nm 1254 thi
m 1 h l bc) vua Trn Thi Tng, quy ch xe kiu c quy nh: T tng tht n
Y phc o giao lnh may bng o M lm bng cc quan ng phm u c ngi kiu, nga, vng. Tng tht th dng
vi mu; Vng cn, hia. tru Nam i Hoa
(nm 1825 i cht liu mu bo lam lt vi
kiu u chim phng, sn son. Tng quc dng kiu u chim anh
may o thnh sa Nam lt ; B t trn mu v, lng ta sn en. Tam phm tr ln dng kiu u my, lng xanh.
la trng, thm 1 thng, xch tr; mt trc v
cn li nh nm 1807) sau o thu ch V C
T phm n lc phm kiu u bng(1) Quy ch L phc ca b quan
triu Trn quy nh ch c tc hu, minh t mi c mc o thu hnh
Phng c. Vo cui thi L s, Ton th cho bit Mc ng Dung s
Quan phc ca hc tr Quc T Gim (1823) v tn sinh (1827)
dng lng phng dt vng. Vo thi Nguyn, hnh tng chim Phng
cn c thu ln Triu phc ca cc quan trn T phm.
Hc tr Quc T Tn sinh
Gim Ring vi quy ch L phc hu cung, triu Nguyn quy nh: hong
M Vn T Ti (lm bng T Phng thi hu v hong hu i m Cu Phng, trng cng cha i m
la sa, mt trc nh 1 Bnh nh Tht Phng, cng cha i m Ng Phng. Cung tn thuc nht, nh,
hoa bc)
tam giai, ty theo cp bc c dng cc trang sc Kim c pht (b
Y phc o giao lnh may bng o giao lnh
sa Nam lt la trng; may bng tc bng vng) bt phng, tht phng, ng phng, tam phng v nht
thng la, qun mu sa Hoa tht phng. Vic hong thi hu, hong hu i m Cu Phng tng t
xanh; Vng cn, hia mu bo lam
lt la trng; vic hong i m Cu Long. Bi Cu, s 9, c coi l s dng ln
thng may nht, tng trng cho ngi v ch tn, vnh cu.
bng tru;
Vng cn, hia 1. Triu phc

1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:

 1.1. Cu Phng tit trang sc no. Ring vi
M Cu Phng v miu t ca Hi in v ngch
336 337
Phng bo l Triu phc dnh cn, c th thy y l khn c
ring cho hong thi hu v nh bi tc ca hong hu,
hong hu triu Nguyn. Trong tng t vng cn ca vua quan
, m Cu Phng ca hong triu Nguyn.
hu c thn m lm bng lng Kt hp vi m Cu
m v, trm bi tc, sc 9 hnh Phng l Phng bo. Phng Bc sn vng trn m ca mnh ph. (nh: V
phng ma rng bay, khm 9 bo ca hong hu c lm Kim Lc).
chic lp bn, 1 ming vn hoa bng on Bt ti bng mu
b tc, 1 ming bc sn, 12 cnh Hong hu Nam Phng v Hong Thi hu vng chnh sc thu phng hoa trn, sng nc, lt tru phng hoa
oan Huy.
hoa bm, 4 a hoa sc trm, mu hoa xch. C o lm bng lnh bng Lai l mu tuyt bch.
2 cnh ht pha trc, 1 vng lin ng bc tc, Thng lm bng on Bt ti mu tuyt bch, thu Phng hoa
4 a hoa mai, 2 on hoa lin ng trang sc trn xen vng, lt di la Cao b mu tuyt bch. ai vng, thn ai
chn tc, 1 ming kha (kiu) pha sau, ph hnh dng tre thuc bc on Bt ti bng mu vng chnh sc, u sc vng,
phng vng nm mt on ch, 4 thn trm 18 ming vung dt u lt mt gng, khm hoa vng tr rng, 2 chic
bch kim u xu chui thy anh, 198 ht trn mc vng. Hi lm bng t lng v mu , vin thu phng. Bt tt lm
chu c nh, khm 235 ht pha l cc loi. Ngch bng lnh Nam bng mu tuyt bch.
cn lm bng on Bt ti mu thin thanh lt Phng bo ca hong thi
lnh i to mu vng chnh sc sc 4 khuyn hu c lm bng sa mt mu
vng, 1 di thao t. M Cu Phng dnh cho vng chnh sc, thu ch Th
hong thi hu tng t m ca hong hu, song ng sc gia kim, hoa, sng nc
vic xu ngc chu, khm gng c ty (1). xen k kt san h, gng, lt tru
i chiu t liu hnh nh xut hin hnh mu hoa xch v sa mt thu Hoa.
tng m Phng th hin trong cc bc nh Thng lm bng on Bt ti
hong hu, cng cha triu Nguyn, c th thy bng mu hoa xch thu phng
nh m trm bi tc m Cu Phng trong K , hoa, sng nc, xen k kt gng
thut ca ngi An Nam c phn khoa trng, Ty. Vin on gm nn vng lin
M Thi hu v Hong hu song kiu dng tng i thng nht. Tuy nhin ng, lt sa Hong qu, ni lin
dng trang sc chn phng Trm Phng bng vng thi cha Nguyn
ngm sch, vng ngc an chng ti cha th xc nh c cc khi nim vi o la trng. Bt tt lm bng
(nh: V Kim Lc).
xen, Hi ca Thi Hu, lp bn, vn hoa b tc v.v. c th ch nhng chi lnh bng mu tuyt bch, lt tru
Hong hu l hi thu Phng
(K thut ca ngi An Nam). bng mu hoa xch, vin c bt tt c hai dy thao lm bng tru bng
mu hoa xch. Hi lm bng t lng v mu vng chnh sc thu phng
1. (Vit) Hi in. Q.78. Tr.11 13. Nguyn vn: :
xen k kt san h, trn chu, gng ca Ty dng. (1)


[]: 1. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.11-13. Nguyn vn: :
L phc ca Ph M, Cng cha v Hu phi triu Nguyn Tin cung Hong Thi hu, thn mu ca vua Khi nh
(Hong phi sc phc t thin t ch tn tht). (nh: Trnh Bch).
340 341

Phng trn o bo ca qu phi triu Nguyn (Nguyn

mu. Bo tng M thut Cung nh Hu).

QUY CH TRIU PHC CA CNG CHA TRIU NGUYN

NM 1808, 1824, 1833 V 1845
(theo Hi in)

Nm Ni Trng cng cha Cng cha

dung
M M Tht Phng, kha kiu vng nng 4 lng vng
1808
Y phc o bo n mu thu hnh loan phng; 1 chic ai; 1
chic vy i triu mu trng dt hnh phng ; 1 i hia,
1 i tt
Phng bo phc ch (Bu vt triu Nguyn); Hi thu rng phng triu
Nguyn (Bo tng M thut Cung nh Hu). M M Tht Phng, thn m lm
bng lng m v trm bi tc, sc
vng 85 tui, 2 chic kha kiu vng,
1 chic sc chn tc, 7 hnh phng
1.2. Tht Phng, Ng Phng bay, 4 ming c , 2 a hoa mai, 4
Theo quy ch Triu phc nm 1808, cc cng cha u c i a hoa cc, 7 a hoa mn, 4 trm
hoa, 1 vng sc quanh nh u, 1
m Tht Phng, mc Phng bo mu sm. T nm 1845 tr v vng sc quanh vin m, u nh
sau, ch c trng cng cha tip tc s dng m Tht Phng, cc v vi mt ming tuyn kha tr hnh
1824 phng, 2 ming kha bn, 1 b
cng cha cn li ch c i m Ng Phng, mc Phng bo mu trm bch kim xu 120 ht gi chu
hoa xch. Cc loi Phng bo dnh cho cng cha u c may bng khm 230 ht pha l
on Bt ti, thu hoa vn phng , kt hp vi thng mu tuyt bch, Y phc o bo may bng on Bt ti bng
mu hoa xch thu hnh phng ;
i hi thu phng . (1)
thng may bng on Bt ti mu
tuyt bch thu hnh phng ng
sc xen kim tuyn; ai: thn ai lm
bng tre thuc bc on Bt ti bng
mu hoa xch, sc 18 ming cc hnh
[]: vung dt bng vng, b mt tr c
, vn phng lt mt knh; 1 i
Kim c pht; 1 i tt may bng
lnh Bt ti mu tuyt bch; 1 i hi
1. (Vit) Hi in. Q.78. Tr.33-34. Nguyn vn:[] lm bng t Xch v thu phng
[]
 1833 M M Tht Phng
hong hu, cng cha hay cung tn u vn khn vnh, mc o Nht
Bnh, chng t quy ch trang phc ca hu phi triu Nguyn n thi
Y phc o bo n may bng 343
342 vua ng Khnh, Khi nh vn c sa i.
on Bt ti mu
hoa xch thu hnh
Khn vnh, cn gi khn vnh dy, l mt kh vi di hn chc
phng ng sc gia
kim; 1 thng n may mt, kh rng 30cm, c vn gp np thnh hnh ch Nhn gia
bng on Bt ti mu
trn, sau qun nhiu vng quanh u, c khi ln ti 20, 30 vng. Loi
tuyt bch thu hnh
phng ng sc xen khn ny vo cui thi Nguyn c kt hp vi o Nht Bnh, p dng
kim tuyn; 1 ai vng,
1 i hia, tt
lm Thng phc ca hong thi hu, hong hu v Triu phc ca
mnh ph, cung tn, phn ln c mu xanh lam. Sau ny, khn vnh
1845 M M Ng Phng, 1
chic mt ngch sc dn c ph bin trong dn gian, c ph n Vit Nam s dng trong
vng, bch kim, trn cc dp l nghi trang trng.
chu, san h
Y phc o bo n may bng
on Bt ti mu
hoa xch thu hnh
phng ng sc xen
kim tuyn; ai sc
vng v bch kim

2. Thng phc
Theo Hi in, o Nht Bnh l Triu
phc dnh cho cung tn nht, nh, tam, t giai
v l Thng phc ca hong hu, cng cha.
o Nht Bnh c nguyn mu l dng o Phi
Hong Thi hu oan Huy, Trng cng cha con vua ng Khnh, Hong hu Nam Phng.
Phong thi Minh, l loi o x c, c dng i
khm, c o to bn to thnh hnh ch nht
trc ngc, di c c di vi buc hai vt
o. Thng phc Nht Bnh c t nh vo
nm 1807 thi vua Gia Long v c duy tr cho
n cui thi Nguyn. Song quy ch m mo
kt hp vi loi trang phc ny khng n nh.
Nh quy ch nm 1807 quy nh t hong hu Cng cha triu Nguyn.
n cung tn t giai nht lot s dng Kim c
pht phi vi o Nht Bnh, n nm 1846 thi vua Thiu Tr, Kim c
pht c thay th bng mt loi th sc c tn Kim phng. Cung tn
tam giai, t giai v ng giai cn c phn bit bi s lng trm ci.
Kiu dng c th ca Kim c pht v Kim phng, chng ti cha
Phc dng li trang im ca hu phi triu Nguyn trong dp i l; Trng cng cha con vua Dc c.
th kho c. Song t liu tranh nh u th k XX cho thy bt k (nh: Trnh Bch).
 IV. TRANG PHC QUN I
T thi cha
344 345
Nguyn, trang phc
qun i v dn gian
ng Trong tri qua
mt cuc bin cch
ln. n thi Nguyn,
chng ta khng cn
thy s xut hin ca
b qun trang Gip tr,
Binh lnh thi Minh Mng
thay vo , quan vin (Vit Nam qua tranh khc Php).
ban v phn ng i
o Nht Bnh thu Phng , Loan (Bo tng M thut Cung nh Hu). m H u, mc Mng Lan. Binh lnh cng khng cn ci trn ng
kh nh thi L Trung Hng.
Nm 1835, Thi nh Lan
QUY CH L PHC CA HU PHI NM 1807
m t: Lnh cp dch tnh gi
(theo Hi in)
l tnh binh, i nn na, nn
nh ch che u, qut sn
Ni Hong hu Cng cha Cung tn Cung tn Cung tn
dung nh giai tam giai t giai mu vng, chm cm lng g,
M 2 chic Cu 1 chic Tht 1 chic Ng 1 chic 1 chic o dng loi dt len mu ,
long Kim c phng phng Tam Nht vin mu lc, ng tay mu lc.
pht, 1 chic Kim c Kim c phng phng
Cu phng pht, 12 pht, 10 Kim c Kim c Lnh ph, huyn gi l ph
Kim c trm hoa trm hoa pht, 8 pht, 8 binh, huyn binh, i nn qut
pht, 8 trm trm hoa trm hoa
phng sn mu lc, mu en, cm
Y 1 o bo lm 1 o Nht 1 o Nht 1 o Nht 1 o Nht lng g, o dng vi en, vin
phc bng sa si Bnh may Bnh lm Bnh lm Bnh lm , ng tay mu .(1) Nhng
vng thu bng sa bng sa bng sa bng sa
20 hnh rng si , mu xch mu tm mu tm dng m t ca Thi nh Lan
phng, loan, thu hnh o thu chnh nht, 1 hon ton khp vi nhng bc
tr, 1 thng phng loan , 1 sc thu thng
lm bng t thng lm phng , lm bng v binh lnh Vit Nam do mt
Bt ti mu bng t Bt 1 thng t Bt ti s ngi phng Ty khc ha.
trng thu ti trng thu lm bng trng thu 1. Nn K Mao, lnh kinh k i; 2. Nn K binh;
rng phng loan t Bt ti loan 3. Nn lnh Tp; 4. i Binh; 5. o lnh An Nam; 6. Ngoi ra, qua tranh nh u th
trng thu Lnh Tp kh xanh. (K thut ca ngi An Nam). k XX vi nhng hnh v m t
loan
(Thiu Tr 6-1846) Cung tn nht nh
giai: m Kim phng u c 3 bc sn,
ring nht giai 8 phng, nh giai 7 1. (Trung) Hi Nam tp tr - Vit Nam k lc. Nguyn vn:
phng; tam giai trn bi tc ci trm
phng; t giai, ng giai trn bi tc
khng ci trm t s phn bit
 kh chi tit trang phc
TRANG PHC QUN I TRIU NGUYN
ca mt s hng qun
346 (theo Qun lc Vit Nam di cc triu i phong kin, bn sao ca EFEO)
binh nh lnh cm v,
lnh k binh hong gia,
lnh th v, lnh thy
qun, lnh pho th,
lnh bn sng thn
cng, lnh hu trong o th v (Bo tng M thut Cung nh Hu), o lnh, o ca
cung, lnh hu n v.v. i nghi v (Silken threads-A History of Embroidery in China,
Korea, Japan and Vietnam).
do Vin Vin ng Bc
C (EFEO) thc hin, c th thy binh lnh triu Nguyn tuyt i a s
u i nn, i t. S phn bit gia cc hng binh lnh ch yu nm
kiu dng nn mo. Ring o mc phn nhiu l loi o song khai(1), ci
khuy, x vt trc v sau, vai o c vin my bao quanh, gi l vn kin.
Ngoi ra, t sau khi chim ng Nam k, Bc k, ngi Php thnh
lp n v qun bn x ph tr cho qun chnh quy ca Php, gi l
lnh Tp. Lnh Tp cn c gi l lnh kh , lnh kh xanh, bi b
qun trang c trng ca hng lnh ny l nn dp, qun o chn, c
bit l di tht lng buc bng c mt u bung xung che phn h
b, trng tng t nh chic kh.

Chu bn triu Nguyn

(Thnh Thi quyn s 43, t s 8 9)

Nin i: Ngy 16 thng 3 nhun nm Thnh Thi th 10

(1898)
Ni dung: Th v x tu xin may qun o cho binh lnh h
gi. Vua Thnh Thi ch thn thit k kiu o nn mi v
chun cho may mc.
Chu ph: 1. Loi nn qun trang ny trng cha c
nh, o qun trang th khng tin ci nga. Nay chun cho
lm theo kiu mi; 2. Sng nn dng st nm bc. Nn
dng mu en; 3. o qun trang di mt thc hai tc
nm phn, mu lc, vin . Bn trong mc o vi trng. ai
lng dng mu lc; 4. Nn ca v li cng chiu theo kiu
ny. Ty theo chc tc m nh (tn chc) vo trc nn.
Hnh trn trc ngc o qun trang (ca v li) chiu theo
hnh B t m thu vo.

1. i Nam quc m t v nh ngha: o song khai l o x vt trc, vt sau.

 V. TRANG PHC DN GIAN mc qun trng. Nhng con nh t t
1. Y phc gia gio khng bao gi ly Ty, d Ty
348 349
Triu Nguyn l triu i qun ch cui c giu, sang trng n my. Cho nn
cng ca Vit Nam, triu i lu li nhiu bn qun trng l t t co lm ngh
n tng mc nh v nhng nh hng lu ly Ty. Tri li, t gia th k XIX, n
di trong quan nim ca ngi Vit hin i b x Hu kh gi i cht u mc
v phong tc tp qun ca ng cha, trong qun trng, h l v con nhng cng
c quan nim v trang phc. Tuy nhin, chc cc s thuc ta khm s, cc c
vn hin o m ca mi mt triu i u quan thuc su b ca triu nh []
c s k tha, bin d so vi quy ch o m Np sng rnh ri cnh v, cho nn y
Thy kha mc u phc (Hnh nh H
ca triu i lin k. Khong cch gia cc phc sang trng qu phi. Cn dn lao Ni); Thiu n mc o di sau khi
triu i cng xa, s bin d theo cng ln. ng n mc lem luc th khng mc cch tn.

Ngay trang phc trong dn gian, mc d c qun trng. Tuy nhin sau qun
tnh bo th v t bin cch nh trang phc C ng i khn xp, o the. trng dn d c dng vi n gii,
cung nh, song so vi thi L, Trn, trang (Hnh nh H Ni). ban u cn rt r, sau khp ni u
phc dn gian thi L, Nguyn cng c a chung.(1) Nh vy s kt hp gia
nhiu thay i. c bit phi k n vic ph bin o di c ng ci o di nm thn v qun mu trng
khuy, ph b o giao lnh trong dn gian mang tnh cng p di thi hn ch xut hin t u th k XX tr
vua Minh Mng. v sau, trc ngi Vit hu ht u
Loi trang phc ph bin nht trong cung nh v dn gian Vit mc qun mu thm hoc mu .
Nam thi Nguyn hin nhin l b qun chn o cht. Song theo ghi C iu, sau nhng phong tro ci
nhn ca Thi nh Lan th vo nm 1835 thi vua Minh Mng, nam lng nu cao tinh thn on tuyt lc
gii ngi Vit Trung, Nam k thng mc o cht mu en ci khuy hu, hng ti vn minh t cui th k
hp tay kt hp vi qun nhiu . ng cho bit (h) u dng la XIX, song song vi vic ct b bi t,
en vn u, mc o en ng tay hp, qun may bng lnh , i chn rng trng, khng t nam n ngi
t. Quan vin Vit Nam ra ngoi cng u i t, o khng phn ma Vit, c bit l gii tr thc Ty hc
nng ma lnh, ma ng vn mc o la mng. Ngi sang hay dng dn i sang mc trang phc chu u.
hai mu lam, en, vn khn quanh u cng nh vy, qun u mu Trang phc ca n gii lc ny cng
1. V chng nng dn o ti, vy p;
.(1) Ring loi qun chn o cht ca n gii, theo Phan K Bnh, tri qua nhng t bin cch v kiu 2. ng chu n xin; 3.ng gi mc o
trong khong nhng nm 1910-1915, qun th phn nhiu mc qun dng nhm lc bt s lng thng ca cc (loi o c vt trc khp chm
ln gi na vt bn phi, nm khuy
si, qun lnh thm, i khi cng c ngi mc qun nhiu . (2)
Nht loi o truyn thng trc y. Nhng ci khuyt tt vi vi hai di bi cho
Thanh ghi li khong t 1910 tr i c nhng me Ty bo dn bt u ci cch kiu dng o di n tiu biu buc pha di, khong nm 1970 cn
t ngi Thun Qung a mc. t l
phi k n o di Le Mur ca ha s qu thi. Tr. 218); 4. Ngi n b quy
Ct Tng nm 1930 v o di L Ph gnh, cht khn vung i nn ba tm.
1. (Trung) Hi Nam tp trc. Nguyn vn:

2. Vit Nam phong tc. Tr. 324. 1. t l qu thi. Tr. 212.
 ca ha s L Ph nm 1934. ng Ct
Tng pht biu trn t Phong ha
350 351
v chic o di n kiu c cho bit: Y
phc ca cc bn gi, ti xem thy c
nhiu iu bt tin m li khng c v
chi l m thut. Tuy rng vi nm gn
y cng c mt vi phn sa i [...]
chng qua ch my ci mu sc sc
s, my th hng l nc ngoi [...]
cn th vn kiu o le xe y, vn ci Ph n Gia nh bi tc; Tr con vn khn; Soi gng i khn; Bi tc.
(K thut ca ngi An Nam).
qun lng thng en ngm y. Hoc
gi cng c ngi a mc qun trng dng cc loi tht lng ln nh, tht li trc bng, thot khi nhng
song tic rng s vn rt t [...] Cn cm lnh kht khe di triu vua Minh Mng.
sa i dn: trc ht phi hp vi kh Ngoi ra, c mt s kin cho rng vo u th k XIX, trong gii
hu x ta, vi thi tit cc ma, vi phong lu nho nh s dng loi o b ba, loi o c ngun gc t
cng vic, vi khun kh, mc thc o Penang Malaysia, ni c tc ngi B Ba sinh sng(1). Da vo mt
ca thn hnh mi bn. Sau na phi s bc ha trong An Nam quc giang phiu lu phong tc t sinh
gn gng, gin d, mnh m v c v do ngi Nht Bn v vo nm 1794 ti vng ng Trong, c th thy
m thut v lch s. Chng ti ng ngay t cui th k XVIII, loi o vt ngn khng bu, x gia, ci bng
tnh vi quan im ca b Nguyn cc xut hin ti vng ng Trong Vit Nam. Nhiu kh nng y
Ngi ng Trong nm 1794 c v trong
An Nam quc giang phiu lu phong tc t Th Chn Qunh khi cho rng ng chnh l tin thn ca loi o b ba. Tuy
sinh . (T Lan cung cp). Ct Tng ch l mt mt xch trong nhin, ngun gc ca loi o ny c phi
chui di nhng ngi khng li xut pht t o Pengnang Malaysia hay
tn tui nhng cng gp phn ci sa, gip cho ci o di mang hnh khng, hin cha c t liu no c th
dng hin nay, cng nhn nh ng Ct Tng ch o Vit Nam le xe, khng nh c.
lng thng, khng m thut, nhng ti li thy o t thn, o giao lnh 2. Kiu tc
cng nh o di u p c, mi ci mt v. Nhn tm ty thch, kh m Sau mt lot sc lnh cm s dng
tranh ci.(1) cc loi m Tin phc triu L ban b
i vi tng lp dn ngho, s gia Trn Trng Kim cho bit: Cch vo thi vua Minh Mng trong khong t
n mc th ch c vi nu, ngi ngho kh ch c manh o cnh v nm 1828 n nm 1842, nam gii ngi
thng th ng ci kh, c i u mi mc ci qun vi di n u gi. Vit trong ton quc hu ht u bi tc
Ngi sung tc mi c vi ci o nu en v vi ci qun hoc nhum vn khn theo phong tc ng Trong.
nu, hoc trng . Ph n Bc k vn mc o t thn, vy p, vn s
(2)
Ban u, cc loi khn lt, khn nhiu,
C gi i khn xp khong nm 1945.
khn thm ca n ng c qun ri, (Hnh nh H Ni).

1. o di xa nay. (http://chimviet.free.fr/quehuong/chquynh/chqyn_aodaixuanay.htm).
2. Vit Nam s lc. Tr.537. 1. Din o b ba n khch Ty. Dn theo Tp ch Hn Vit. Tr.31.
 v sau c qun xp np bng nan giang, qut
u n, cht theo kiu ch sn du trn mt cho
352 353
Nht , hoc ch Nhn khi thm nc ma
gia trn. Khong nm gi l nn sn. Nn lp
1920, 1930, ngi Vit mi bng l da rt mng,
ch ra loi khn xp, khu nh, quai la bch, i
dn lin nhng vnh np trng ra v ho hoa
li, ch vic t chp ln phong nh. Quan liu
M Ni. (Vit Nam qua tranh khc Php; K thut ca u cho nhanh chng v a i nn lng, lng
ngi An Nam). Xe si. (nh: Albert Kahn).
thun tin. (1)
cnh chim lp hai t,
Trong khi , ph n ng Ngoi vn vn khn thm, lt, nhiu, trn nh c chp bng bc chm tr, hay bng i mi vnh vng vnh
i thm khn vung m qu bng vi nu hoc xuyn, bt chp lnh bc.(1) Loi nn b ca n b m Phan K Bnh nhc ti ch cc loi nn
cm n b khng c dng vi, la ngn qun u, khng c ba tm, nn Ngh, nn quai thao v.v. c s dng thng xuyn vo
i khn vung. Khc vi ph n ng Ngoi, ti Trung k, Nam k, u th k XX.
n b bi tc bt khn vung, khng vn khn nh ngi Bc , n (2)

b ng Trong a u trn vi bi tc, hoc bt u bng mt khn

vung gp cho i, buc nt xung di cm(3).
Ngoi ra, ngi cao tui thi L
Nguyn cn i mt loi m, gi l m Ni,
vn l i ca gii tng l. Vit Nam
t in nm 1954 nh ngha: M Ni, m
ca ng gi i, pha sau c dim che kn
c tai v gy. Loi m ny ngay t thi L
Trung Hng c Alexandre de Rhodes
ghi nhn: M Ni, m ca cc v s [] M
che tai di ti vai. Nhng ngi khc cng
dng m ny trong tri lnh.(4)
V nn i, Phan K Bnh cho bit
n ng thng i nn da, nn sn, nn Ph n thi Nguyn vn tc ui
g bng la trng, i nn Ngh,
lng; n b thng i nn b, nn lng
mc ym trng, o nm thn c Mt gia nh thng lu Hu. (BAVH).
cho(5). Nht Thanh gii thch: Nn an ng ci khuy.

1. t l qu thi. Tr.223.
2. Vit Nam phong tc. Tr.324.
3. t l qu thi. Tr.223.
4. T in Vit - B - La. Tr. 171.
5. Vit Nam phong tc. Tr.324. 1. t l qu thi. Tr.224.
 LI KT

Trc khi c s phn nh nghim ngt v a chnh tr, cc cng

ng dn c chung sng trn cng khu vc a l thng c s giao lu,
chia s, nh hng ln nhau v ngn ng, phong tc v.v., mt cch t
nhin. Vi tnh cht hn dung, vic xc nh phn li thun chng ca
bt k nn vn ha no cng cn nhiu thi gian v nhng chng l khoa
hc lin ngnh.
Vn minh Trung Quc khng t nhin c sn; dung np trong
chc chn c khng t thnh t vn ha mang ngun gc ng Di, Bch
Vit. Song k t khi b my chnh quyn phong kin Trung Quc hnh
thnh, i km vi chnh sch ng ha dng H bin di, vn minh
Trung Quc tng bc thm nhp v gy nh hng su rng ti cc
vng t, quc gia xung quanh n, trong c Vit Nam, Triu Tin v
Nht Bn. Trong khi Nht Bn vi v tr a l quc o, nhiu ln phi
cc on khin ng s ch ng hc tp, du nhp vn minh ng,
Vit Nam v Triu Tin li c quc th gn lin vi i lc Trung Quc,
u tng hng chu nhng chnh sch ng ha vn ha. Sau khi ginh
c c lp, vi quan nim vn minh Trung Quc l thc o tin b,
Vit Nam v Triu Tin li nhiu ln ch ng m phng in chng
vn hin ca triu nh Trung Quc. Chnh v vy, trong nhiu trng
hp, nhng nt vn ha tng nh ch c Vit Nam, Triu Tin, Nht
Bn li thng tm thy s tng ng hoc tng cn ca n ti Trung
Quc.
Khong 100 nm tr li y, sau khi ch ngha quc gia, t tng
dn tc c dp ln mnh, Nht Bn tha nhn v t ho cho rng,
h hc tp vn minh Trung Hoa, ng thi y ln mt tm cao mi,
cn Hn Quc v Vit Nam li din ra cc cuc tranh ci v vn bn
quyn ca cc thnh t vn ha vn c coi l c ngun gc Trung
Hoa. C th im qua vic ng Kim nh, H Vn Thy chng minh
Nho gio mang ngun gc Vit, chn ni Thi Sn tng l a bn c
tr ca dn tc Vit, Kinh Dch l pht minh ca ngi Lc Vit v.v.,
tng t trng hp ng Ban Mun Ki, Kang Sang Won chng minh ch
Hn l pht minh ca ngi Hn Quc, sau dy ln mt lot cc bi
vit tuyn b ngi Hn l ch th sng to ra ng y, Kinh Dch, la
bn, thm ch Khng T, Tn Trung Sn l ngi Hn Quc v.v. Nhng
nghin cu c s dng ny, u chu s chi phi ca tinh thn dn tc,
cn nng tnh t bin, suy din, thiu chng c khoa hc xc tn. Bn
cnh , ng gc trung tm soi chiu cc nc xung quanh,
khng t hc gi Trung Quc li c tm thi, ging iu ca nc ln, coi
vn ha Vit Nam, Triu Tin, Nht Bn ch n gin l s khc x ca
vn minh Trung Hoa, thiu ci nhn tn trng, khch quan i vi vn
ha, lch s ca cc quc gia ny. y l hai thi cc oan trong vic
nghin cu, i snh vn ha, cn c nhn nhn v ph bnh mt cch
nghim tc.
c xc nh gii hn nghin cu nm trong giai on 1009 - 1945,
giai on t nhiu cn s liu, hin vt n chng, Ngn nm o m th
hin mt gc nhn lch s, t tng, m thut Vit Nam thng qua dng
chy bin thin ca vn ha trang phc; ng thi lm r nhng im
tng ng v khc bit gia trang phc Vit Nam so vi trang phc ca
cc nc ng vn, c bit l Trung Quc. T kt qu nghin cu ny,
cch n mc, li sng ca ngi Vit trong khong 1000 nm tr li y
bc u sng t. y s l tin cho vic nghin cu phong tc, li
sng ca ngi Vit trong qu kh xa xa hn, nhm tng bc tm ra
ci li bn sc trong vn ha Vit Nam.
Mi thi u c gi tr quan, thm m quan ring. Mi li khen
ch, nh gi ch mang tnh nht thi. Cun sach bn c cm trn tay
c vit nn bng s tn trong s tht cua ngan nm ao mu ngi Vit,
khng c nh gi ng sai, hay d. Vi t cch l tc gi, ti hy vng
bn c c ci nhn cng tm, bnh tnh i vi vn ha trang phc Vit
Nam ni ring, vn ha cung nh Vit Nam ni chung, c bit i vi
nhng thnh t vn ha Trung Hoa dung cha trong vn ha Vit.
H Ni, cui xun nm Qu T 2013.
Trn Quang c
 TRANG PHC THI L TRUNG HNG (1533-1789)
187

Rng v K ln thi L Trung Hng (Cha Bt Thp, Bc

Ninh; BTLSVN; in Knh Thin, H Ni).

Nm 1527, nh L s sp sau s kin Mc ng Dung ph trut

ngi vua, t xng hong . Su nm sau, nm 1533, tng Nguyn Kim
a con chu nh L ln ngi, tc vua L Trang Tng, m u triu i L
Trung Hng, ct c ti Thanh Ha. Cuc chin L - Mc din ra trong ngt
60 nm, n nm 1592, vi s ph t c lc ca cc tng Nguyn Kim,
Trnh Kim, Trnh Tng, vua L cui cng cng tr v thnh Thng Long,
ni li c nghip vng. Song th lc ca tp on cha Trnh ngy
cng ln mnh. Bnh An Vng Trnh Tng h st v bc t cc v vua
chng i nh L Anh Tng, L Knh Tng, thao tng triu nh, khin
cc vua L t nm 1619 tr v sau ch cn li h v, m ra thi k vua L -
cha Trnh ko di hn 200 nm trong tin trnh lch s Vit Nam.
T na cui thi Trung Hng, cha Trnh ln lt t ra cc c
quan quyn lc dnh ring cho ph cha, trn thc t c chc nng
nhim v tng ng vi cc ban b c sn ca triu nh vua L. Vic
lm ny thc cht nhm tp trung quyn lc vo tay cha, song li khin
b my quan li ca triu nh L - Trnh thm rc ri v cng knh.
Theo , quy ch nghi l dnh cho cha ngy cng c xu hng ln vt,
cn quy ch dnh cho vua li b loi b dn dn. Phan Huy Ch cho bit,
L b ph cha tuy cha dm ngang hng vi nh vua, nhng qun
lnh kh gii trn thc t qu nh vua [] Bui quc s (u thi L) i
gi ca nh vua c nm loi xe, v sau dn dn ph b.(1) Cng chnh v
vy, quy ch nghi l, phm phc dnh cho b quan khi vo chu vua v
hu cha c quy nh ht sc phin phc.
Thi L Trung Hng c hai mc thi gian quan trng xc lp ch

1. (Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch - vng d v chi ch - Vng ph l b. Nguyn vn:

[]
 y quan phm phc l nm 1661 v nm 1721 din ra vo thi vua L Thn bng Cn Min, v mc d ngy thng th
Tng v vua L D Tng. Trong , quy ch nm 1661 phn ln k tha lc ca cha Trnh c ln t vua L, song
188 189
quy ch nm 1500 thi vua L Hin Tng. Nm 1718, tham tng Nguyn vo l t Giao, l t thing ling bc nht i
Cng Hng sang nh Thanh tm in chng c ca nh Minh v nh li vi cc triu i phong kin - qun ch, uy
ch y phc. K t nm 1721, o m ca triu nh nc Vit ni chung, quyn ca vua L vn l ln nht. Hay ni
triu nh nh L ni ring, chu nh hng kh ln t quy ch o m ca nh Cng mc: Nh L t thi Trung Hng
Trung Quc giai on cui Minh u Thanh. v sau, kim Thi A nm ngc, k di ln
quyn, ngi trn tht th, t y v sau, l
ngha vua ti mt sch. Duy c l Nam Giao
t tri l danh phn tn ti vn cn [] y l
l tn nghim nht, long trng nht.(1)
Vua L (S.Baron, 1683. T liu
cc cng ty ng n). i vi L phc t Giao ca vua L cha
Trnh, Loi ch ghi nhn: T thi Trung
Hng v sau, vo cc bui i l nh ln ngi, tin tn, ban chiu, hong
thng u i m Xung Thin, mc Hong bo, eo ai ngc. L t Giao
1. Hoa vn rng thu trn ngc Long bo ca vua Minh Vn Lch, khai qut ti nh Lng, Bc mc o m mu huyn (en huyn), n nh i Th thay o, li i m
Kinh; 2. Khn ph mt vua L D Tng (Bo tng Lch s Vit Nam); 3. Khn ph mt ca vua
Minh (The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York). Xung Thin, mc Hong bo ng nh nghi
l [] Cha thng vo cc dp i l nh t
I. TRANG PHC VUA, CHA Giao, tin tn, mc o bo ta (t bo), i m
1. Triu phc Xung Thin, eo ai ngc.(2) Cng mc cng
Thi Trung Hng, vua L ch c coi l biu tng vng quyn ghi nhn: Vua mc Huyn bo, cng vi on
ca dng di vng, ch c h v, khng c thc quyn. Khng t quy L b, Php gi, Nh nhc t ca i Hng
ch l nghi dnh cho thin t thi L s dn b loi b. Trong , cc (ca Nam thnh) i ra, n in Canh Phc ngoi

vua L Trung Hng p dng Thng phc ca vua L s lm L phc v n t th i m Xung Thin, mc Hong bo,
Triu phc, ph b quy ch Cn Min trong dp t Giao. iu ny tuy tht ai ngc, n in Chiu S hnh l. Cha
b ngoi ch l s thay i v o m, song thc cht l s thay i v t Trnh v b quan vn v theo hu l bi theo
tng cng nh t thi ca vng. Chnh Phan Huy Ch nhn nh: nghi thc(3). Tng quc cng Trnh Tng
(trinhtocgiapha.com).
T thi Trung Hng v sau, vo cc dp i l, hong thng ch i m Qua nhn nh ca Loi ch v Cng
Xung Thin. Trm ngh [] kiu dng m Xung Thin so vi m Phc mc, c th thy vua L, cha Trnh vo cc dp i l nh l t Giao,
u khng qu khc bit. Vn sc khng y th th cch khng tn
nghim. Bc vng gi t nh l nghi th phi khi phc quy ch Cn
1. (Vit) Cng mc - Q.32. Nguyn vn:
Min. Khng T ni mc Cn Min ca nh Chu. Thc l php thc cho []
mun i vy.(1) Mc d Triu phc Xung Thin khng tn nghim 2. (Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch Quan gia quan phc chi ch. Nguyn vn:
[]

3. (Vit) Cng mc - Q.32. Nguyn vn: []
1. (Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch - Quan gia quan phc chi ch. Nguyn vn:
[]
 l ng c, tin tn, ban chiu sc v.v. cha Trnh Sm nm 1777: Vng xt theo Chu L,
u i m Xung Thin kt hp vi o khi t tri mc Cn Min, cc i Hn, ng, Tng,
190 191
bo. L phc ca cha Trnh nhn chung Minh, Thanh khi t Giao v Thi Miu u dng Cn
tng t vua L, ch ly phc sc mu ta Min, ch c ngy k th hm y i o t lng hiu
phn bit vi vua. Ngoi ra, ring trang m. Nay xin tham kho phng theo, c hng nm
phc t Giao, trc khi ti nh i Th n l Tr tch yt in Knh Thin v cc l knh co
thay Hong bo, vua L mc o m mu ngy thng th dng sa on Bc, mu thin thanh
huyn trn dc ng i t ca i Hng (mu huyn), thu kiu Long vn i hi. L sinh nht
ra. Mu huyn chnh l mu o t tri, cc tin vng Thi Miu th dng sa on Bc,
tng t mu o Cn theo quy ch c. mu nguyn thanh (mu xanh en), thu kim tuyn; l k
Nhng tm Hong bo ca vua L nht dng sa on Bc, mu thin thanh, thu kim
D Tng (1679-1731) c khai qut vo tuyn; ch c l k nht ca Hy t (Trnh Cng) dng vi
nm 1958 l nhng hin vt hy hu, em Thanh Ct mu qu, l sinh nht tin thnh vng
Tranh chn dung tng Phm Tu,
li ci nhn chn thc v din mo trang Ngh t (Trnh Doanh) th dng vi Thanh Ct mu vi Phc dng Triu phc
nh Ngoi x Thanh Lit, H Ni
v tng vua L Thn Tng cha phc ca vua L, cha Trnh thi k ny. minh (hi sng), cn l k nht vn dng vi thm ca vua L D Tng.
Mt Sn, Thanh Ha. nh: TQ).
Qua so snh i chiu mt s hin vt, c hp s nghi.(1)
th nhn thy kiu cch trang tr rng my, sng nc trn tm Long
bo ca vua L D Tng ht sc gn gi vi nhng tm Long bo, Mng
bo ca Trung Quc c nin i cui Minh u Thanh. iu ny thc ra
khng kh l gii, bi l triu L Trung Hng tng ng vi thi Minh
mt Thanh s. Cuc thay triu i i gia nh Minh v nh Thanh din
ra nm 1644, trong khi nm 1718,
tham tng Nguyn Cng Hng i s
Trung Quc, phng tm in hin
c ca nh Minh, v nc t nh
ra phm phc.(1) Cn bo phc ca
cha Trnh, sm nht l nm 1777
mi chun theo tu ngh ca nh
An Nam quc vng ch T th sn trang
thn s dng loi o thu kiu Long in trong Thp ton phu to sch, v
vn i hi tng t nh o bo ca cnh vua Thanh ban o m cho vua L
Chiu Thng cng mt s cn thn. Vua 1. Long bo ca vua L D Tng (Bo tng Lch s Vit Nam. nh: Trnh Bch); 2. Tng bo thi
vua L. Chng ta bit c iu ny L Chiu Thng trong tranh i m Xung Thanh (Chc T Trn Phm); 3. Mng bo ca Tn Lng Ngc (1574-1648) (Bo tng Trng
qua li khi bm ca nh thn vi Thin, mc Hong bo. Khnh); 4. Mng bo cui thi Minh (Bo tng T la Hng Chu).

1. (Vit) V trung ty bt - Quyn thng - Quan l. Nguyn vn: ,,,,
. V trung ty bt chp l nm Khang Hy th 21 tc 1682 lc ny ng Nguyn Cng ,,,
Hng mi 2 tui, chng ti da theo Cng mc (Q.35) i thnh nm Khang Hy th 57 tc nm 1718.
1. (Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch - Quan gia quan phc chi ch. Nguyn vn: ,
,,,
.Nh Thanh ph b Cn Min, nh thn tu li ny lm.
 2. T phc lm T phc ca vua cha triu L Trung Hng l loi m lm bng the
a. M Bnh nh qut sn, thn m v nh m hnh lc lng, dng m khng qu cao.
192 193
Phm nh H cng ghi nhn thm rng, nhng nm Chnh Ha, Bo
Thi (1680-1705; 1720-1729), T tng Nguyn Cng Hng tip tc khu
bit cc hng m, m Bnh nh t hng vng cng xung ti li s, ly
chiu cao ca m phn th bc, m ca vua cha dng kim tuyn
phn bit.(1) Vi d liu khan him, chng ta khng bit m Bnh nh
c c nh cc trang sc vng bc hay khng, ch bit ring m Bnh
M T Phng Bnh nh, m inh T, m t Bnh nh lc lng theo m nh ca vua cha c phn bit vi m Bnh nh ca vng cng, li
t ca Phm nh H. (Phc dng). s bi cc si kim tuyn. Ngoi ra, trong b T phc ny, m Bnh nh
c kt hp vi o Thanh Ct, loi o kiu trng vt.
Phan Huy Ch cho bit: Hong thng [] vo ngy gi Thi b. o Thanh Ct
Miu i m Bnh nh, mc o Thanh Ct Cha thng khi yt kin Theo ghi nhn ca Phan Huy
lu Knh Thin v l sinh nht Thi Miu th i m Bnh nh, mc Ch, vo cc ngy t gi tin , tin
o Thanh Ct mu ha minh, ngy gi Thi Miu th mc o Thanh Ct vng, vua L cha Trnh u i m
mu qu; ngy gi cc v i gn th dng m Bnh nh, o vi thm. (1)
Bnh nh. Cha Trnh mc o Thanh
Nh vy vo thi L Trung Hng, m Bnh nh c quy nh l loi Ct vi hai mu c bn l mu ha
m s dng trong cc dp t gi tin , tin vng ca vua L, cha minh v mu qu, c khi mc phi
Trnh, c tnh cht tng t m Thng Thin ca vua Trn v m Xun vi o vi thm ty theo tnh cht ca
Thu ca vua Nguyn. bui l. Vua L vo ngy gi ti Thi Di xe ch gm. Vn ha ng u (nm
Kho v quy ch m Bnh nh, Phm nh H cho bit: inh Miu cng mc o Thanh Ct.
3500-3000 tr.CN). (Bo tng H Ni).
GS.TS Hn Vn Khn cho bit: Di xe ch
Tin Hong ch ra m T Phng Bnh nh, quy ch ca m y vung Khi nim Thanh Ct trong Loi tm thy kh ph bin trong vn ha Phng
m nh m phng [] i sau i thnh kiu lc lng, h phn trn ch, Cng mc, L triu hi in, L
Nguyn (nm 2000-1500 tr.CN) [...]Nh
vy ngh dt vi ph bin trong vn ha
xung, lm bng the qut sn, y l m t, gi l m Bnh nh; li bin triu chiu lnh thin chnh, V trung Phng Nguyn. C dn vn ha ny t nht
dng vung thnh dng trn, b dng thng thnh dng cong, lm m ty bt, Tang thng ngu lc c
cng c hai loi vi mc, l vi v cy
v vi dt t si(Vn ha Phng Nguyn).
thng dng khi chu hu, gi l m inh T.(2) Chng ti khng tn chp l ; trong Nht dng thng
ng quan im ca Phm nh H khi ng cho rng loi m Thng m c chp l . Ring Nht dng thng m, mc Ct b
phc inh T ca b quan thi Trn, m T phc Bnh nh ca vua L (vi ct) c vit theo c hai cch v . Chng ti cho rng ch
cha Trnh u c ngun gc t m T Phng Bnh nh ca qun i ct chp trong Loi ch, Cng mc v.v. l ch gi t, vit thay cho
triu inh. Tuy nhin cch l gii ca ng gip ngi i sau d hnh ch ct l tn mt loi vi. Vo thi L Trung Hng, L Qu n v
dung v kiu dng ca cc loi m ny, theo , m Bnh nh p dng Phan Huy Ch u ghi nhn: Tc nc Nam dng vi nhum chm,
sau li nhum nu, cho thm t keo, ly chy p ri phi kh, gi
1. (Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch - Quan gia quan phc chi ch. Nguyn vn: [] l o Thanh Ct. Bt c quan dn, sang hn u mc, ring dng di
[][]

2. (Vit) V trung ty bt - Quyn thng - Quan l. Nguyn vn:
1. (Vit) V trung ty bt - Quyn thng - Quan l. Nguyn vn:

 ngn phn bit.(1) Tuy nhin, ngoi ngha mu xanh cn c
o Thanh Ct khng ch c mt ngha mu en(1). Ti phn
194 195
mu n nht, chnh Phan Huy Tang bin trong V trung ty
Ch, L Qu n v c Phm bt, Phm nh H ghi: o
nh H u nht tr nhn nh Thanh Ct, hi gim sc ha
loi o ny c ba mu l mu ha minh, gi l mu sng, cng
minh, mu vi minh v mu qu. tc l mu qu, nhng hi
Ring Phm nh H cn ni r, khc mt cht.(2) Nh vy,
Tm long bo th ba ca vua L D Tng c kiu
giao lnh l loi o vua mc vo ngy thng. theo l c, o Thanh Ct coi mu vi t liu hin c, chng ti Chn dung cha Trnh Giang, Trnh Sm v Trnh Bng
(Gia ph h Trnh).
ha minh l hn c, mu vi minh cho rng Thanh Ct vn l
km hn, ngi thp km dng mu qu, tc gi l o mu sng. Nu mt loi vi ct, sau khi tri qua cc cng on nhum mu, gia keo,
gp quc tang th vng cng khanh s u mc mu qu. By gi khng p nn, phi kh th c mu xanh en. Ngoi ra, loi vi ny cn c
c ngi sang ngi hn u mc mu qu c, cn mu ha minh v nhum thnh cc mu ha minh, vi minh v mu qu. Trong , mu
mu vi minh th cho l qu kch, khng dng na. C iu dng nh(2)
qu cn c gi l mu sng, mu ha minh v mu vi minh cng tng
chnh Phm nh H cng mu thun vi cch hiu ca mnh, bi trong t mu sng, song mu sc sng hn. Phan Huy Ch ch cho bit mu
Nht dng thng m, ng gii thch Thanh Ct l o en . (3)
o t ca cha Trnh, khng cho bit mu o ca vua L. Da vo tnh
Th nht, phi khng nh rng, vi ct c ngi Vit ch to cht t l, c th on rng, o t ca vua L phi l loi o sm mu, gn
v s dng t rt sm. Ngay t thi ng Hn (25-220), sch D vt ch vi mu xanh en, tng t nh b Huyn bo ng s dng khi t Giao.
ca Dng Phu cho bit: Cy chui, l to nh chiu, thn nh khoai, Ring kiu o Thanh Ct, chng ti cho rng loi o ny c kiu giao lnh,
em un ln th nh t, c th xe si dt vi, ph n dt thnh loi vi hy bi nh L Qu n cho bit, y l loi o quan li v dn thng thi
(vi mn, si nh), khch (vi th, si to), nay l vi ct ca Giao Ch. Sch Nam
(4)
L u mc, ng thi cn ni: L phc dng o trc lnh (l tn gi khc ca
Vit Ch ca Thm Hoi Vin (~285) cho bit: Vi chui c ba loi l vi o giao lnh) ng tay di, hoc may bng vi Thanh Ct, hoc vi thm, hoc

chui, vi trc v vi ct, tuy th mn khc nhau, nhng u cng mt vi trng ty nghi.(3)
ngun m tn gi khc bit.(5) Vo th k XV, An Nam ch nguyn cng 3. Thng phc
cho bit: Hai th gai v t chui, c th chp li lm vi, mn nh la Phan Huy Ch cho bit: T thi Trung Hng v sau, hong thng
nn, rt hp mc vo ma h. Th hai, trong ting Hn c, ch thanh
(6)
[] Thng phc i m Tam Sn, mc o c cc mu xanh, mu huyn
[] Cha thng [] th chnh, triu hi, tip kin qun thn u i
1. (Vit) Vn i loi ng - Q.5 - Phm vt. Tr.21. Nguyn vn:
m Tam Sn, o mu ta.(4)

(Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch - B quan chng phc chi ch. Nguyn vn:
1. C i Hn ng t in. Tr.1251. Cc t thanh ti, t xanh, tc xanh, thc cht ch mi tc en; thanh li,
2. (Vit) V trung ty bt - Quyn thng - Y phc. Nguyn vn: thanh nhn vi ngha mt xanh, thc cht l mt en; thanh sam, thanh y l o xanh, trn thc t l o mu
en v.v. Vo thi L, Nguyn Cng Bt tng ca ngi vua L Nhn Tng Mu trng nhi thanh bch phn
minh (mt trong m xanh trng r rng), t thanh bch (xanh - trng) y phi c hiu l en trng.
3. (Vit) Nht dng thng m. Tr.63. 2. (Vit) V trung ty bt - Quyn h - Tang bin. Nguyn vn:
4. (Trung) D vt ch. Dn theo T dn yu thut trc t sch dn. Tr.179. Nguyn vn:
3. (Vit) Ph bin tp lc - Phong tc. Nguyn vn:
5. (Trung) Nam Vit ch. Nguyn vn:
Vi chui cng c dng lm kimono ca ngi Nht. 4. (Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch - Quan gia quan phc chi ch. Nguyn vn: []
6. (Trung) An Nam ch nguyn - Q.2 - Th sn. Nguyn vn: [][]
 trong K thut ca ngi An Nam, chng ta c th kim chng c
hnh dng Tam Sn theo quan nim ca ngi xa.
196 197

M ba bc th hin trn tng cha He Nhai, H Ni; L quan ca Nht Bn: Lp m nn

ging nh chic bnh m hnh ngn ni, gn vo lp m ngoi hnh trn, gi l m Tam Sn,
c lm bng the qut sn en.(Wikipedia); M Tam Sn ca thi gim nh Minh (Tam ti
hi).

Nh chng ti cp, mt s loi m c tn hnh tng nh

Phong Cn (m gi), Lng Cn (m mt), Tam Sn Mo (m ba ngn
ni) v.v. xut hin trong khi cc nc s dng ch Hn, tuy c tn gi
tng ng, song kiu dng hon ton khc bit. Xt ring trng hp
m Tam Sn, hin nhin, m Tam Sn ca vua L cha Trnh khng th
l m Tam Sn ca thi gim nh Minh v cng khng th l m Tam
Sn ca cc quan Nht Bn thi Nara (710-794). TS. on Th Tnh, tc
gi cun Trang phc Thng Long H Ni cho rng loi m c hnh dng
ba bc thang th hin trn pho tng tng
truyn l tng vua L Hy Tng th ti cha
He Nhai (H Ni) l m Tam Sn. Song theo
quan im ca chng ti, mt khi m c
nh danh l Tam Sn, kiu dng m hoc mt
b phn kt cu ca m phi c hnh dng ba
ngn ni nh ch Sn, tng t cc dng
m cng tn ca Nht Bn v Trung Quc.
Trong khi L Qu n ghi nhn ngi x
Qung Xuyn, Tr Vinh gii lm m m v, c
Phc dng trang phc m Tam Sn ca cha Trnh (Tranh: TQ); tng cha Trnh
th dng cc trang sc, hoa vn rng phng, Sm (c thuyt cho l Trnh Giang) ti cha Kim Lin, H Ni.
Ci ym hnh tam sn; Tam sn
vn th, tam sn, bt bo lm o cn, chng
(K thut ca Ngi An Nam).
t ng thi khi nim Tam Sn cn ch mt Kho st mt s pho tng vua L, cha Trnh c nin i th k
loi trang sc trn m . Qua mt s hnh v
(1)
XVII, XVIII, chng ti nhn thy pho tng cha Trnh ti cha Kim Lin
(H Ni) i mt loi m c nhng mi hnh my un cong chp m,
ngc chu nh dc cc vin lng, tng t quy ch m Quyn Vn
1. (Vit) Ph bin tp lc - Vt sn phong tc. Nguyn vn:
Thng Thin ca hong triu Trn v loi m th hin trn cc pho
 tng vua Mc, c bit phi k n trang sc hnh Tam sn nh gia vua L, cha Trnh thng i mt loi m thn trn, nh phng, trn
trn m. Chng ti cho rng loi m ny mi l m Tam Sn. m sc trang sc bng vng. Theo m t ca Phm nh H, loi m ny
198 199
dng trn, nh phng, dt bng lng ui nga, li nm vng sc ln
trn m phn bit ng cp, l loi m vua L, cha Trnh i nhng
khi nhn h, hong t v vng t thng i khi vo hu th s.(1)
V o mc, kt hp mt s pho tng thi L Trung Hng vi
cc hnh v trong Chu n thuyn hi quyn, c th thy vo ngy
thng, thm ch vo nhng bui thit Thng triu, li trang phc
o c trn mc lt trong, o giao lnh mc khoc ngoi kh thnh
hnh. y cng l hai dng trang phc ph bin vo thi L.
Lnh cha Hi An (ch cha Nguyn Phc Nguyn) v triu thn trong Chu n thuyn hi quyn
do ngi Nht Bn v nm 1609.
QUY NH V TRANG PHC CA VUA L CHA TRNH
Ngoi ra theo ghi nhn ca Phan Huy Ch, vo cc bui Thng (theo Loi ch)
triu, vua L i m Tam Sn, mc o mu xanh hoc mu huyn, cha
Trnh cng i m Tam Sn, song ch mc o bo mu ta. i vi kiu Vua L Cha Trnh
dng o bo Thng phc ca vua L cha Trnh, Phan Huy Ch khng M o M o
miu t c th, song da vo pho tng cha Trnh th ti cha Kim L t Giao, tin tn, Xung Thin Hong bo, Xung T bo,
Lin, chng ti ng rng nhng loi o ny u c kiu dng giao lnh. ban chiu ai ngc Thin ai ngc
(t Giao:
Ring pho tng Quc cng Trnh Tng th ti cha Din Khnh li mc Huyn bo)
o bo nh B t K ln, i m Phc u c hai cnh chun hi choi
Ngy k Thi Miu Bnh nh Thanh Ct Bnh Thanh
ln pha trn (dng m ny d gy lm tng l m Xung Thin, song nh Ct
mu qu
thc cht vn l m Phc u). Xt theo phm trt, cha Trnh thuc
hng vng, B t dnh cho tc Vng theo quy ch ca nh L l B Ngy gi cc v tin Bnh o vi
vng i gn nh thm
t K ln. Theo chng ti, c th vo thi k u triu L Trung Hng,
Ngy sinh nht Thi Bnh Thanh
cha Trnh mc B phc, v sau, khi nghi l dnh cho cha ngy cng Miu v ngy yt lu nh Ct
c xu hng ngang hng vi vua L, cha Trnh cng dn thay i trang Knh Thin mu ha
minh
phc. Trng hp nh thn xin cha Trnh i Bo phc thnh dng
Thng triu phc Tam Sn Thanh bo (bo Tam Sn T bo
o bo thu Long vn i hi vo nm 1777 l mt v d in hnh. Tuy (Th chnh, triu hi, xanh), Huyn
nhin, chng ta cng cn thn trng vi hnh thc trang phc m Xung gp b ti nhng khi bo (bo en)
nhn h)
Thin, B phc th hin trn cc pho tng thng ng thn, bi l
m tp tc tng thi L Trung Hng v thi Nguyn, nh L Qu n
ghi nhn trong Kin vn tiu lc: B t, trung ng thn dng hnh K
ln, thng ng thn dng hnh Long m.
4. Tin phc
Nhng khi khng phi thit triu, khc vi vua L ch bi tc ci 1. (Vit) V trung ty bt - Quyn thng - Quan l. Nguyn vn:
. Phm nh H quy loi m vin th, bnh nh (thn
trm vng, vua Trn i m ng Cn hoc dng la trng bc tc, trn, nh phng) vo mt trong ba kiu m inh T, cch phn chia nh vy khng hp l.
 II. TRANG PHC B QUAN dng mu xanh. T hi Trung Hng tr v sau, Trnh Tng chuyn gi
chnh quyn, vn v trm quan vo hu ph cha u dng m Lng
200 201
QUY CH PHM PHC CA B QUAN Sa v o thm, cn m o tng cp bc cha c quy ch nht nh. n
T THI L S N THI L TRUNG HNG nay nh r: m o ca hong thn, vng t, vn v b quan dng khi
vo chu vua v khi vo hu ph cha (chng ti gi l Th phc), dng m
Triu phc (L s): Triu phc (Trung Hng): Sa, o Thanh Ct. Thng phc v hnh nghi u c cp bc khc
Lng quan chu phc Phc u, B phc, ai
nhau.(1) Vo thi L s, trang phc ca b quan c phn lm ba loi:
Triu phc (Hin Tng):
Phc u, B phc, ai Thng phc, Th phc Triu phc Lng quan, Thng phc Sa vi B phc v Cng phc
Cng phc (L s): Phc
u, Bo phc, ai
(Trung Hng): Sa, Phc u vi o bo trn. n thi vua Hin Tng, m Phc u c
Thng phc (Hin Thanh Ct, thao
kt hp vi B phc, song song vi vic hp nht quy ch Cng phc v
Tng): Sa, B phc, ai
Thng phc (L s): Th phc 2 (Trung Hng): Triu phc. T thi L Trung Hng tnh ti trc thi im nm 1721,
Sa, B phc, ai Lng Cn, Sa, Yn V trang phc ca b quan c phn lm hai loi: Triu phc Phc u
vi B phc, Thng phc v Th phc Sa vi o Thanh Ct.
Quy ch trang phc ca b quan triu L
Trung Hng c ba t sa i ln lt din ra
vo cc nm 1661, 1721 v 1725. Nm 1661,
trn c s quy ch nm 1500 thi L s, triu
L Trung Hng t nh li quy ch Triu
phc, Thng phc, ng thi nh r quy
ch Th phc dnh khi vo hu ti ph cha.
Nm 1721, tham tng Nguyn Cng Hng da
vo in chng c ca nh Minh nh li
quy ch o m, ni dung ch yu ca t sa
i ny l nhm vo trang phc chu cha -
Th phc. Nm 1725, quy ch Triu phc ca
b quan c i li, c bn quay v quy ch
c nh ra t nm 1500 thi L s.
Quy nh phm phc ca b quan nh
L Trung Hng vo nm 1661 c Cng
Quan vn i m Bnh nh, mc cho bit: u nin hiu Cnh Thng
quan v i m inh T (a La)
trong tranh th vua L Nam (nm 1500), nh Triu phc: cc tc cng The Bova or King of Tonqueen when he gives audience. (S. Baron, 1683) Bui thit triu ca vua L
Hy Tng (Dn theo T liu cc Cng ty ng n, H Lan v Anh v K Ch - ng Ngoi TK17). Cc
(nin i th k XVIII). Trang trong hong thn v cc quan t tam phm quan u i chn t. Theo cha Marini, vo thi L Trung Hng, tt c cc quan, k c hong t, h vo
phc b quan th hin trong tranh
trn thc t l Th phc ca b tr ln, m dng m Phc u, o dng mu cung chu vua u phi i chn t, nu i giy dp s b coi l c ti, ch c vua i hi.
quan triu L Trung Hng.
ta; t, ng phm v hng v dng nn sn
trng, v hng vn dng m Phc u, o dng mu lc; t lc phm tr 1. (Vit) Cng mc. Nguyn vn: []

xung v hng v dng nn sn son, v hng vn dng m Phc u, o
 1. Triu phc Lc Bch ai tc Vn ai k lam Bch ai tc
Qua bc v vua L thit triu nm 1683, c th thy vua L mc phm nhn hng vin nhn hng nhn hng
202 thau bc vin thau 203
Triu phc Xung Thin - Hong bo, b quan phn ln mc Triu phc on thm bc on
Phc u - B Phc, th v cm nghi trng mc m o lm t cht liu thm
a La. Tang thng ngu lc chp: o m i triu: m Phc u, B Tht Bch ai tc Bch ai tc Bch ai tc
phm nhn hng vin Hc hng nhn hng
phc, mu l trn ht, th n l mu xanh v mu huyn. (1)
Triu
thau bc vin thau
phc ca triu nh L Trung Hng k tha ch Triu phc t nh on thm bc on
thm
t thi vua L Hin Tng, tuy nhin trong sut thi Trung Hng, ch
phm phc ca b quan vn c ba ln sa i nh ni. Xt ring quy Bt Bch ai tc Tiu ai sng Bch ai tc
phm, nhn hng vin Liu tru sc nhn hng
ch Triu phc, ni dung chnh ca ba cuc thay i ny ch yu nm cu thau bc ng thau vin thau
quy ch ai v B t. phm on thm bc on
thm

SO SNH QUY CH B T V AI
Phm Quan v 1500 Quan v 1661 Quan v 1725
NM 1500, 1661 V 1725 cp
B t ai B t ai B t ai
(theo Cng mc)
Nht S t ai sng t S t ai sng t Bch ai sng
phm sc bc sc bc trch t sc bc
Phm Quan vn 1500 Quan vn 1661 Quan vn 1725 bc lnh l
cp
B t ai B t ai B t ai
Nh S t ai sng t -S t -ai i Bch ai sng
Nht Tin ai sng t Tin ai sng t Tin ai sng
phm sc bc -Tng mi trch t sc bc
phm hc sc bc hc sc bc hc t sc bc
-Dy thao bc lnh l
bc lnh l
n

Tam Bch ai i mi Tng Dy thao S t ai i
Nh Tin ai sng t Tin ai sng t Tin ai sng
phm trch sc bc bc n mi sc
phm hc sc bc hc sc bc hc t sc bc
l bc
bc lnh l
T H ai i mi Tng Dy thao H Tht di
phm sc thau n ai mu
Tam Cm k ai i mi Cm k ai i Cm k ai i
bc l ta
phm sc bc bc mi mi sc
l bc Ng Bo ai i mi Dy thao Bo Tht di
phm sc thau n ai mu
T Khng ai i mi Khng ai i Khng ai i
bc l ta
phm tc sc thau tc mi tc mi sc
bc l thau bc Lc Tng ai tc Dy thao Tng Tht di
on thm phm hng vin n ai mu
thau bc xanh
Ng Vn ai i mi Khng ai i Vn ai i
on thm
phm nhn sc thau tc mi nhn mi sc
bc l thau bc Tht Tng ai tc Dy thao Tng Tht di
on thm phm hng vin n ai mu
thau bc xanh
on thm

1. (Vit) Tang thng ngu lc. Tr.10-11. Nguyn vn:

 1.1. Dng ng bng vng, b quan vn v nht, nh, tam phm
Nh chng ti cp, sc bc, quan vn t phm tr xung dng m
204 205
Dng ng vn l m L Phc u khng trang sc. T thng 11 nm 1725,
phc ca Tng quan triu Trn. m Phc u dnh cho quan vn t, ng phm
Vo thi L Trung Hng, m c php dng trang sc bng ng thau, quan
Dng ng c p dng vn lc phm tr xung dng m Phc u trn,
lm m Triu phc ca hong khng c trang sc(1).
thi t, vng th t, hong t M Phc u thi L v thi Nguyn, xt v
v vng t c ban tc quc kiu dng u rt gn gi vi m Sa, vy nn Hi
Tng Qun cng Nguyn Th M th k XVII cng. Loi m ny c hnh dng in triu Nguyn tng gi m Phc u l m
(BTMTVN) v tng Trn Nguyn n th k tng t m Phc u, ch khc Sa(2). Trn tu s nc Triu Tin l Min Am nm
XVII (Cn Sn. T in Vn hc), xa tc, i m
Phc u c trang sc, c th l trang sc Dng trang sc Dng ng v 1691 m t trang phc quan nh L: H i m Quan triu L Trung Hng
ng, mc B phc. xa tc, i m Phc
phn hu sn nh cao. sa mu en, dng bc trng lm hc cm cnh u trn (tc m Sa).
Xt ring trang phc ca hong thi t v vng thi t, Loi ch cho chun, mc o gm thu hoa vn, c trn.(3) (Nhng khu truyn gio
dn theo Lch s truyn
bit: Hong thi t mc o xanh, i m Dng ng, tc m Phc Nm 1713, gp quan nh L ti Bc Kinh, s thn gio Vit Nam).
u, pha sau hi cao, khng tham d ban chu. Vng th t ng u Triu Tin Han Tae Dong m t: M mu en, o
ban chu, i m Dng ng, hai cnh pha sau dt vng, Triu phc c trn, phm phc, ai tht i nh quy ch nc ta. Ring vic xa
dng mu ta, B t K ln dt bng kim tuyn, tc ra sau ri i m l k l m thi.(4) S thn Seo Ho Su cng ni: H
ai dng ai k thch nhiu vng.(1) Triu phc bi tc (phn cn li) bung xa, i m Sa, vn o bo ng tay rng,
ca hong t v vng t c phong tc quc sc vng bc m v ai, i ng da en.(5) Tng t l m t ca Hong
cng cng l m Dng ng kt hp vi B Thanh chc cng : Quan vn nc An Nam i m the, mc Triu
phc K ln mu ta, ai k thch bc vng, ma phc, tht ai, bung di thn, chn i hia da. Quan v nc An Nam
xun h th dng the Bc, ma thu ng th dng i m the nh bng, mc Triu phc, tht ai, hia lm bng da en,
on Bc . S khc bit v phm phc gia cc
(2)
mi hia nhn khc vi quan vn.(6)
v hong t, vng t nm quy ch trang sc Tuy nhin, khc nhng quy nh rch ri v trang sc sc m nh
trn m Dng ng v cht liu B t. bc sn, kha gin, ngch tng, nhiu tuyn thi Nguyn, s liu thi
1.2. Phc u
Trc nm 1725, quy ch m Phc u ca
1. (Vit) Cng mc. Nguyn vn:,.[],
b quan triu L Trung Hng vn k tha quy []
ch nm 1500 thi vua Hin Tng, tc hong B t K ln bng kim tuyn 2. Xin xem phn kho v m Gii Tri ngay sau y.
v B t K ln thng thi
thn v vng cng u c dng trang sc m Minh. (Khng ph). 3. (Hn) Triu Tin vng triu thc lc. Mc ngy 5 thng 12 nm Tc Tng th 17. Nguyn vn:

4. (Hn) Lng th Yn hnh lc. Tr.233. Dn theo Ct Triu Quang. i Minh y quan kim h ti, ng trong
1. (Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch - B quan chng phc chi ch. Nguyn vn: S hc nguyt san. K 10. 2005. Nguyn vn:

(L triu hi in k hiu A.257 chp tng t). 5. (Hn) Yn hnh k - Q.2. Tr.459. Dn theo Ct Triu Quang. i Minh y quan kim h ti. Nguyn vn:
2. (Vit) L triu thin chnh in l. Dn theo Cng mc. Nguyn vn:
(L triu hi in k hiu A.257 chp 6. (Trung) Hong Thanh chc cng . Nguyn vn:
tng t).
 L hu nh khng cp n cc trang sc trn (Trn m cao ca ngi hin s tun t ci nhnh hoa vua ban). Vo thi
m Phc u. Vn liu duy nht lin quan n L Trung Hng, tng c vic Nguyn Khn tin s, c ban yn L
206 207
loi trang sc ny l quy nh o m dnh cho b ng, quan T Nguyn Nghim ang lm Th lang b L, t tay
tin s chp L triu hi in, trong cp gi bng hoa m cho con, ng thi thng truyn tng.(1) Vic ban
n mt th trang sc l Tam sn b dip, ng hoa ci m cho cc tin s cng l quy ch chung ca nh Tng,
chng ti hiu l l b sp thnh hnh tam Minh v Triu Tin, tuy nhin cung cch ca mi nc l ring bit.
sn. Loi trang sc ny c l c nh trn trn
m ging nh trang sc nh trn m tng
Tng Thi gim Trnh ng ng (Hi Dng).
L triu hi in cho bit: Hng tam khi,
hong gip, mi vin mt chic m Phc u
c lng nh (tc hai dim che tai(1) - TQ ch), l b
hnh tam sn bng ng thau [] ng tin 1. B T Bch Nhn trn
tng cha Vnh Nghim, Bc
s cng nh vy, (m) ch c lng nh. Ngoi (2)
Giang, th k XVIII; 2. B T
trang sc l b Tam sn, m Phc u ca S T trn tng cha B
, Bc Giang, th k XVIII.
hng tam khi, hong gip v tin s thi Trung (nh: TQ).
1.Ng hoa trn m ca Tin s Triu Tin (Trang phc ca chng ta); 2. ng Thm hoa cm
Hng cn c hai dim r che tai, tng t m cnh hoa (K thut ca ngi An Nam); 3. Tin s thi Nguyn. (nh Albert Kahn).
ca to s ban v. Vy nn T in Vit - B - La nh ngha: M u cn
Quy ch Hoa bc ci m:
(ch Phc u cn): m
lng c tai, cc tin s L triu Hi in (K hiu A.52) cho bit cnh hoa bc ci m ca triu Trung Hng c
quy nh: Trng nguyn: Hoa bc 1 cnh 9 nhnh nng 9 tin; Bng nhn: Hoa bc 1
dng.(3) cnh 8 nhnh nng 8 tin. Thm hoa: Hoa bc 1 cnh 7 nhnh nng 7 tin. Hong gip:
Hoa bc 1 cnh 6 nhnh nng 6 tin. ng Tin s: Hoa bc 1 cnh 5 nhnh nng 5 tin.
Ngoi ra, cc
Bia Vn Miu s 71 tc nm 1748 cho bit, cc tin s cp c ban o bo mu lam,
v tam khi, hong ai tc hng, yn qunh, hoa bc.
Quc s di bin cho bit: Ngy mng 9, thng 4, nm 1822 thi vua Minh Mnh, nhng
gip, tin s triu L
tin s thi nh i sch trng th c ban cho ci mt a hoa qunh.
Trung Hng v triu
Nguyn sau khi ng
Triu phc m Phc u B phc. 1. Tng cha ng Neo
danh bng vng cn 1.3. Cc loi m khc
(Hi Dng); 2. Tng Thi gim Trnh ng ng (Lc s M c ci mt cnh Ngoi m Phc u p dng ph bin cho vn v b quan, trong
thut Vit Nam); 3. Triu phc m Phc u B phc ca quan
Lc phm triu Nguyn.
hoa bc ln m Phc quy ch Triu phc L Trung Hng cn xut hin nhng loi m nh m
u. Quy ch ban Sa, Lng Cn, Gii Tri, Thanh Ct v cc loi nn nh nn sn bc
tng ng hoa xut hin vo thi Trn. Trn Nguyn n tng miu chp nh hng mao, nn sn son chp nh hng mao. M Thanh Ct
t nhng ngi tin s thi Trn Tun s nga quan sp ng hoa (4)
v cc loi nn sn l trang phc ca quan v, chng ti s trnh by ti

1. Trung Quc y quan phc sc i t in. Tr.122. Phng lnh ha vn bi th "Ban yn cho nhng ngi tin s in Quan c ca
2. (Vit) L triu hi in. Nguyn vn: , nh vua.
3. T in Vit - B - La. Tr. 53. 1. (Vit) V trung ty bt - Quyn h - Tin in Nguyn tc. Nguyn vn:
4. Th vn L Trn. Tp 3. Tr.115. Nguyn vn: (Bi th mang tn
 phn kho v trang phc qun i. vy, m Sa thi L Trung Hng c
M Sa l loi m Thng phc v ba loi: Sa c ch en t ni, Sa
208 209
Th phc ca b quan, chng ti s thng thng v Sa n dng. Trong
trnh by quy ch c th ti phn , m Sa c ch en t ni v m
sau. Di y l mt s ghi chp Sa thng thng kt hp vi B phc,
lin quan ti cc loi m Sa, Gii ring m Sa n dng kt hp vi o
Tri, Lng Cn p dng lm Triu Thanh Ct.
M Sa c ch en t ni chnh gia phn phc cho cc quan. - Triu phc, Thng phc Lng
hu sn. (Chn dung Nhan Hi. Vn Miu
Quc T Gim H Ni; Chn dung quan Triu - Triu phc Sa : L Cn en : Theo quy ch nm
Tin. Bo tng Quc gia Seoul). (nh: TQ).
triu chiu lnh thin chnh chp 1661 v nm 1721, hong t, vng t
quy ch Triu phc nm 1661 cho bit: Hong t, vng t c phong cha c phong tc khi vo chu
tc qun cng i m Sa c ch en t ni, triu phc dng mu , u i m Lng Cn en, mc o the
trc lnh, B t hnh H bo, dy thao kp c ngc, eo kim. Cc chc cai en(1). Loi m mt ny vo thi vua
qun, cai i c tc qun cng i m Sa, triu phc dng mu , L Thnh Tng c a chung n M Gii Tri ca quan ng s triu
Nguyn (BAVH.1916). Hi in vit:
trc lnh, B t hnh voi, dy thao kp, eo kim [] Con chu ca quan ni xy ra tnh trng ct trm lng ui M th dng m Sa, trn Bc sn
vn c tp m, khi vo chu nhn nga cng lm m, khin nm 1467 bng bc nh thm hai chic sng bng
bc, gi l m Tri; B t Gii tri thi
nhim v i m Sa n dng, o triu nh phi h lnh cm dt to m Minh. (Cm t vn chng).
Thanh Ct c lt. (1)
Quy ch Triu Lng Cn(2). Loi ch cn cho bit mt
phc nm 1721 v c bn tng t trong nhng quy nh v cht liu to m ca hong thn, vng thn
nh quy ch nm 1661, ngoi ra cn nm 1720 l m ma xun - ma h dng lng ui nga, ma thu -
quy nh, cc chc trng s, bnh ma ng dng on mu huyn(3). Chnh v thng c s dng vo
s, thng s, chnh ph t nghi, ma nng nn loi m ny c nh danh l Lng Cn, tc m mt.
ph hiu y, th c, ging d, v - Triu phc Gii Tri : Theo quy ch nm 1721, thng
y, tri b, s, tri s, in s, ch th, ng s, ph ng s, hnh, hin s, gim st ng s cc o v.v.
b, x mc, ngc tha v cc hng u i m Gii Tri, mc B phc Gii Tri. Cng mc cho bit: Php
Tng quan, tp lu i m Sa n Quan vn v An Nam. Hong Thanh chc quan u dng Gii Tri (ch m v B t).(4) Gii tri tng truyn l
cng (Yn hnh lc). Quan vn nc
dng, o Thanh Ct c lt [] Cc linh th mt sng, bn tnh ngay thng(5), thng c to hnh tng t
An Nam i m sa, mc Triu phc, tht
chc phng ng, gim b (trong ngch ai, bung di thn, chn i hia da. Quan k ln. Ngay t thi Hn, triu nh Trung Quc m phng sng Gii
v nc An Nam i m sa nh bng, mc
Ni quan) i m Sa, o Thanh Ct
Triu phc, tht ai, hia lm bng da en,
c lt, khng c ph hu.(2) Nh mi hia nhn khc vi quan vn. 1. (Vit) Cng mc. Nguyn vn:
2. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:
3. (Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch - B quan chng phc chi ch. Nguyn vn:
1. (Vit) L triu chiu lnh thin chnh. (A.257) Nguyn vn:
4. (Vit) Cng mc. Nguyn vn:
; Cng mc. Nguyn vn: 5. (Trung) D vt ch ch thch: Vng hoang mc ng Bc c loi th, tn l Gii Tri, mt sng, tnh ngay
thng, thy ngi u tng th nhm vo k khng thng m hc, nghe ngi tranh lun th nhm vo k
2. (Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch - B quan chng phc chi ch. Nguyn vn: khng ngay m go. Nguyn vn:
. Hu Hn Th cho bit: M Php quan [] cn gi l m Gii Tri. Gii tri l con d thn,
c th phn bit cong thng. Vua nc S bt c, em v lm m.
 tri ch ra mt loi m p mt chic m Gii Tri, hi nh trong khi a nghch, ta thng ly ra
dng cho cc quan thc thi i, thch nht l m Gii Tri, c cm cng khng c(1), c th thy
210 211
php lut, nhm nhn gi ngoi chic sng mang tnh cht biu tng, kiu dng ca m Gii Tri
nim v lng tri v s cng v m Phc u thi L cha hn hon ton tng t nh vo thi
bng. Ti Trung Quc, m Nguyn. Ngoi ra, khc vi Triu phc Gii Tri ca triu Nguyn (m Gii
Gii Tri thnh hnh vo Tri kt hp vi Mng bo), vo thi L Trung Hng m Gii Tri kt hp vi B

triu Hn, ng, Tng; phc thu hnh Gii tri, tng t quy ch ca nh Minh. Chnh vua L
triu Minh v triu Thanh Thnh Tng tng cp dng B t ny trong Thp gii c hn quc
ly hnh Gii tri lm B ng vn: C k i iu Thin nhn mt, c ngi vn Gii tri ngang
t, ph b quy ch m Gii ngang. Cch ni vn Gii tri ngang ngang tc l mc bo phc vi
Tri(1). ming B T hnh Gii tri nh ngang trc ngc.
The Court of the Chova or General of Tonqueen.
Ti phn kho trang 2. Thng phc - Th phc
(S.Baron, 1683) Ph cha Trnh (T liu cc Cng phc b quan thi L chng u thi Trung Hng, b quan
ty ng n, H Lan v Anh v K Ch - ng Ngoi
TK17). Nhng ngi trn u c nh s 2 c ch ti cp, triu Tin L vn v vo hu ph cha u dng m
thch: B quan cc phm t lng tn knh i vi ngi. v triu L phng quy ch Lng Sa, o mu thm en, ng cp
C th thy ba loi m chnh th hin trong tranh l m
Sa, m Bnh nh v m inh T. m mo ca nh Tng du cha c quy ch nht nh. n thng 6
nhp ba loi m Tin Hin, nm 1661, triu nh nh L nh r, khi
iu Thin, Gii Tri. Trn thc t, m Gii Tri thi k ny cng chnh vo chu vua v hu cha, hong thn,
l m Tin Hin, trn m c nh thm mt chic sng nn gi Gii vng t, b quan vn v u dng m
Tri. Ti Trung Quc, m Gii Tri b ph b vo thi Minh, song ti Vit Sa, o Thanh Ct. Nm 1720, triu
Nam, cc triu i L - Nguyn vn s dng biu tng sng gii tri nh nhc li quy nh, phm khi chp
nh ln m phng theo quy ch c. Vo thi Nguyn, m Gii Tri l s, hnh l v th s u i m Sa,
m Phc u nh thm mt cp sng bng bc. Hi in triu Nguyn mc o Thanh Ct, vo hu ph cha
cho bit: Minh Mng nm th 18, xung d: Khoa o l chc gi hin Trnh cng nh vy.(2) Mt b Thng
php trong triu nh, triu nh u i ngn quan t r phong ha phc kim Th phc bao gm m T tng Nguyn Qun Nho (1638-
1708) mc Thng phc th ti nh th
hin php [] M th dng m Sa, trn bc sn bng bc nh thm Sa, o Thanh Ct, dy thao x ngc, ty
dng h Nguyn Qun. (nh: Thn
hai chic sng bng bc, gi l m Gii Tri [...] hp vi ngha gii theo phm trt cao thp m c s phn Tun, Hiu ph trng PTTH Nguyn
tri hc t.(2) Da theo li th ca Nguyn Tri tng v Ng s h Hong bit.(3) Ngoi ra, y cng l b trang Qun Nho, Thanh Ha cung cp).
thi L s: M Tri cao cao mt ta st, chng ring yu mai cn yu
tuyt(3), cng li k ca Phm nh H, cha ta tng lm hin st Nam 1. (Vit) V trung ty bt Quyn thng T thut. Nguyn vn:
nh v tun ph Sn Ty, trong trp ct mt chic m Phc u v
2. (Vit) Cng mc. Nguyn vn: . (Phm khi
chp s, hnh l v th s u dng o Thanh Ct, m Sa, khi chu ph cha Trnh cng nh vy); (Vit)
Loi ch v Lch triu tp k u c ni dung tng t. Nguyn vn:
1. Trung Quc y quan phc sc i t in. Tr.49, 50. ,. (Vn v, ni gim chp s hnh l v th s u dng o Thanh Ct, m
2. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Nguyn vn: [] Sa, quan vn v phng chu ni cc cng nh vy). Ring i Vit s k tc bin, Mc nm 1720 chp:
[] Cc quan vn khi vo hu ni cc cng nh vy. (Tr.78)
3. (Vit) c Trai di tp - Q.1 - Hong ng s Mai Tuyt hin. Nguyn vn: 3. (Vit) Cng mc. Mc thng 11 nm 1725. Nguyn vn:

 phc Cng s c php mc vo ly cc quan trong trng thi(1), QUY CH TH PHC TRIU L TRUNG HNG
tng t trang phc m Phong Cn - o giao lnh thi Nguyn.
212 213
Ngoi ra, vo cui giai on L Trung Hng, trang phc ca b ~1661 1661-1721 1721 ~
quan vo hu cha cng c quy nh ht sc phin phc. T nm - Khi chp s v hnh l:
1721, thi cha Trnh Cng triu nh c quy nh khi cha coi chnh M Sa, o Thanh Ct
M Lng Sa, M Sa, - Khi cha coi chnh s ph:
s ph, b quan i m Bnh nh, mc o Thanh Ct, song khi cha o mu thm en o Thanh Ct M Bnh nh, o Thanh Ct.
tip khch cc, cc quan vn i m Lng Cn, quan v i m Yn - Khi cha tip khch cc:
Quan vn: M Lng Cn
V(2). Nhng khng t quan li, c bit l cc quan vn v cp thp, qun Quan v: M Yn V
lnh v nha li u n vn khng ng quy nh. Trn thc t, cc loi m
Bnh nh, Lng Cn, Yn V, inh T k trn, b quan u c th i 2.1. M Sa, o Thanh Ct
vo ngy thng. Vy nn * M Sa
Lng Cn v Yn V c Tng t quy ch
V trung ty bt xp vo Triu phc, Thng
loi trang phc thng th, phc m Sa p dng
th s, song Tang thng cho b quan khi chp s
ngu lc li xp vo loi v khi vo hu ph cha
Quan vn i m Sa o Thanh Ct dng giao lnh trong trang phc ngy thng ; (3)
cng c phn lm ba
Vn quan vinh quy th k XVIII. (Bo tng M thut). m Bnh nh c V loi: m Sa c ch en
trung ty bt xp vo loi m thng nht ca vua quan s th, song t ni, m Sa v m
ng thi cng li c xp vo loi trang phc b quan mc khi vo Sa n dng. Trong
chu cha(4); m inh T (Thanh Ct, a La) l loi m thng xuyn , m Sa l loi m
c quan vn v cp thp, nha li i vo chu c ph cha ln cung p dng cho tuyt i a Hai bc chn dung t ha ca vn thn Kang Se Hwang
(Khng Th Hong) thi vua Jeong Zo (Chnh T) Triu
vua, thm ch qun dn ngy thng cng u c i . (5)
s b quan vn v, l m Tin. 1. M Sa - B phc - ai. 2. M Sa, o giao lnh,
Sa trn theo quy ch dy thao n. (M Sa c ch en t ni).
1. (Vit) Lch i danh thn s trng - Ch kh - Nguyn Th Nghi. Nguyn vn: thi L s.

2. (Vit) V trung ty bt - Quyn h - Thn l. Nguyn vn: [] M Sa c ch en t ni theo Phan Huy Ch l m Thng phc
[]
ca hong thi t, vng th t cng hong t, vng t lm cc chc
3. (Vit) V trung ty bt Quyn thng - Quan l. (Vit) Tang
thng ngu lc - Thng sch - Nguyn Cng Hng. Nguyn vn: tam thi, tam thiu c tc qun cng; hong t, vng t lm cc chc
,
t hu c c tc qun cng; hong t, vng t lm cc chc
4. (Vit) V trung ty bt Quyn thng - Quan l. Nguyn vn:
c ng tri, c thim s c tc qun cng; hong t, vng t lm
5. (Vit) Cng mc. Nguyn vn: (Trc y, Thng phc
cc chc hiu kim, c, lnh, tham c, v s c tc qun
ca quan, nha li, qun, dn u dng o Thanh Ct, i m inh T); (Vit) Loi ch, L triu tp k, i
Vit s k tc bin. Nguyn vn: (Ch c, cc nha li vn cng; hong t, vng t c tc qun cng, phn bit vi loi m Hc
v ln nh v qun lnh u mc o Thanh Ct, i m inh T). Ngoi ra, Loi ch cn dn li Ng Th S
cho bit: M inh T, n nay vn cn, nha li qun
Lng Cn ca hong t, vng t cha c phong tc. Da vo danh
nhn u i. Chng ti cho rng, cm t quan li qun dn trong Cng mc, vn v i tiu t li xng ca m, i chiu vi loi m Sa ca Trung Quc v Triu Tin
qun trong Loi ch, L triu tp k v i Vit s k tc bin, hay t li qun nhn trong li ca Ng Th
S u ch quan li vn v cp thp v binh lnh, khng nn dch thnh cc quan vn v, nha li ln nh,
cng thi, chng ti cho rng y l loi m Sa c cp ch en to, t
binh lnh nh mt s bn dch lu hnh hin nay. ni chnh gia phn hu sn.
 M Sa n dng theo quy ch nm s thn nh Nguyn. Pho tng quan hu
1721 c p dng i vi cc chc trng ti lng vua Trn Hin Tng th hin li
214 215
s, bnh s, thng s, chnh ph t nghi, ph tht dy thao hnh s 8 thi Trn. i vi
hiu y, th c, ging d, v y, tri b, dy thao tht lng thi L, T in Vit - B -
s, tri s, in s, ch b, x mc, ngc tha, La nh ngha:Thao: dy la cc nh quyn
v cc hng thuc vin tp lu; cc chc c qu v vn nhn dng tht lng. Tht
nhn, n li, tng thn thao, tho thao. Tng hp ghi chp trong
li, lnh s, Ni th t Cng mc, Loi ch, L triu chiu lnh
th t cai ty, cai hp, thin chnh v.v. c th thy dy thao thi L
th hp tr ln, Th ni Trung Hng c phn lm 5 loi: dy thao
Tng ti cha Bt Thp Bc vn chc th t nho sinh o ph hu, tng cha Vnh n, dy thao kp (tc dy thao c chp li t hai
Ninh i m Sa khng c cnh Nghim, Bc Giang. (nh TQ).
trng thc, gim sinh dy thao n), dy thao kp xu ngc, dy thao
chun, mc o giao lnh.
tr ln; nhng nho sinh kp xu ngc sc bc, dy thao kp xu ngc sc vng. Trong , loi dy
trng thc, gim sinh, nho sinh, x chnh, x s, thao kp xu ngc sc vng dnh ring cho hong thi t v vng th
x t, sinh , quan vin t tn, nhiu nam; con t(1). Theo Lch triu tp k, loi dy thao ny c xu ba vin ngc(2).
chu cc quan vn c phong m tr ln. Da vo Dy thao kp xu ngc sc bc dnh cho hong thn, vng thn. Cc
danh xng n dng, i chiu vi mt s pho loi dy thao kp xu ngc, dy thao kp, dy thao n c p dng
tng c m mang kiu dng Sa - Phc u thi cho b quan, ty theo phm trt cao thp.
L Trung Hng, chng ti ng rng m Sa n
dng c th l m Sa khng c hai cnh chun.
* o Thanh Ct M Sa n dng, m
Sa thng thng, m
Thng 6 nm 1653, triu nh h lnh cho Sa c ch en t ni.
php quan vn t khoa o, quan v t qun cng (Phc dng: TQ).

u c dng loi o Thanh Ct c kiu ph hu (ph: che; hu: sau), quan

li khc u khng c ln vt.(1) T nm 1720, triu nh quy nh
quan vn i m Lng Cn, quan v i m Yn V, o Thanh Ct c
ph hu.(2)
Khc vi quy ch Triu phc chu vua m Phc u - B phc v
ai lng, quy ch Thng phc v Th phc ca b quan c quy nh
m Sa phi vi o Thanh Ct v dy thao. Dy thao dng lm tht lng
c nhc n sm nht trong Ton th vo nm 1314, qua vic vua
Trn Minh Tng mc o giao lnh vng, i m, tht dy thao d tic i
Dy thao. 1. Tng quan hu lng vua L Hin Tng, Lam Kinh, Thanh Ha. 2. Quan vn qua nt
v ca Jean-Baptiste Tavernier (1605 - 1689); 3. Tng ti cha Bt Thp Bc Ninh; 4. Tng
thi L Trung Hng ti T ch h ng, Bc Ninh; 5. Tng quan hu thi Trn tht thao s 8 (Lng
Trn Hin Tng, Qung Ninh). Theo quy ch Tang phc triu L (Loi ch - L nghi ch - Tang nghi
v Tang phc), khi c quc tang, b quan hoc i m Sa en, o Thanh Ct en, dy thao en,
hoc m Sa trng, o Thanh Ct trng, dy thao trng.

1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn: 1. (Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch B quan chng phc chi ch. Nguyn vn:
2. (Vit) Tang thng ngu lc. Nguyn vn: [] 2. (Vit) Lch triu tp k. Tr.135. Nguyn vn: ng Hong Vn Lu (Nxb. KHXH, 1975)
Bn dch lu hnh hin nay dch cm t ph hu l hai vt trc vn ln buc vo sau dch l di thao ch t o gip nhau c trang sc bng vng v xu ba vin ngc. Cch hiu v dch nh
lng. Cch hiu v dch nh vy khng chnh xc. vy khng chnh xc.
 2.2. Bnh nh
DIN MO TRANG PHC L TRUNG HNG M Sa, o Thanh Ct va
217
TH HIN QUA TRANH TH VUA L NAM l Thng phc khi vo hong
cung chu vua, va l Th phc
khi vo vng ph hu cha. Nm
Qua tranh th vua L Nam v hong hu c nin i th k XVIII 1721 thi cha Trnh Cng, quy
hin ct gi ti Bo tng Thi Bnh, c th thy trang phc ca b quan ch Th phc c iu chnh,
th hin trong tranh trn thc t l trang phc vo hu cha ca b quan lc ny khi cha coi chnh s
thi L Trung Hng. Trong tranh cc quan vn u i m Bnh nh ph, b quan u i m Bnh
bng sa en ng hng trn cng, cc quan v i m inh T bng nh, mc o Thanh Ct [] khi
gai (a La) ng hng th hai bn tay tri, binh lnh v tiu li phn cha tip khch cc, cc quan
ln cng i m inh T hoc mu hoc mu en (Thanh Ct) ng vn i m Lng Cn, quan v
hng th ba. Li phc sc ny kh khp vi miu t ca Thanh triu vn i m Yn V. Phm nh H
hin thng kho (khc in nm 1787) : Quan phc, quan vn m Sa, o cn k li rng, vo cc k thi
c trn, ai, hia; ngy thng th i m cao lm bng on mu en, o Hi di thi cha Trnh Giang
bo thng tay lm bng vi xanh [] quan v ngy Triu h dng m a ( ngi 1729-1740), ti nht
Quan vn An Nam (Jean-Baptiste Tavernier 1605
La Ni cc sc [] ngy thng dng m mu xanh, o bo xanh.(1) trng, hong thng ng gi ti
1689); V quan vinh quy (Bo tng M thut
in Ging Th, b quan u i Vit Nam); Tranh sn mi vua L Nam v
m Phc u, mc B phc, tht hong hu (Bo tng Thi Bnh).

ai, i hia [] n nh trng, tam trng v t trng, ph

Tranh th vua L Nam v Hong hu th k XVIII (Bo tng Thi Bnh).
(nh: Bi Trung Sn).
cha lm thay, cc quan theo hu u i m Bnh nh, mc o Thanh
Ct, tht thao, i tt.(1) Tuy nhin, trn thc t, m Bnh nh tn ti
t trc nm 1721, vi tnh cht l trang phc thng nht ca qu tc
v nho s. Loi m ny tng xut hin trong tranh ca S. Baron, tranh
ca Jean-Baptiste Tavernier t th k XVII.
Theo Phm nh H, vo thi L Trung Hng, m Bnh nh c
ch thnh dng lc lng, dng m thp, l loi m s dng trong dp t
l. V sau loi m ny tip tc c ci tin, lm m thng phc cho
vua quan, vng cng v cc nho s. Danh phn tn ti c khu bit
chiu cao v trang sc trn m. Ring loi m vin th Bnh nh (thn trn
nh phng), lm bng lng ui nga, sc vng trn trn l loi m thng
nht ca vua cha v l m Thng phc ca hong t, vng t; loi
m kiu lc lng nh lm, lm bng sa Nam l m Thng phc ca

1. (Trung) Thanh triu vn hin thng kho - Q.296 - T du t - An Nam. Nguyn vn: 1. (Vit) Tang thng ngu lc H sch - Hi th. Nguyn vn: [][]
[] []
 thi gim(1). Cng mc, Loi ch, i Vit s k
tc bin u cho bit m ca thi gim l m
218
Bnh nh sau i thnh kiu dng lc lng(2).
Alexandre de Rhodes trong T in Vit - B -
La nh ngha: M the: M lc lng ca cc v
vn nhn. M su gc, m lc lng, cc vn
nhn v bc quyn qu An Nam s dng.
Nh vy m Bnh nh vn c dng trn, v
sau c i thnh dng lc lng. Ring m
ca thi gim nh lm, phn bit vi m nh
phng (Bnh nh) ca vua quan v nho s.
Qua mt s tranh nh thi L Trung Hng
hin cn, c th thy m Bnh nh mu en,
c kiu dng kh cao, m ca vn nhn nho s
u khng c trang sc. V quan Triu Tin l
Mn m khi tr li cu hi ca vua Tc Tng
v phong tc ca ngi Vit triu L miu
t on cng s i Vit sang Bc Kinh, ngoi
tr chnh s, nhng ngi i theo u mc o
Ngi Giao Ch trong sch
Boxer Codex, v nm 1590,
en, i m en, kiu dng m rt cao, bt k
i m Lc Hp (lm bng sang hn u xa tc. (4)
vi), phn bit vi m Lc Theo ghi chp ca V trung ty bt, Phm
lng Bnh nh (lm bng the
qut sn). nh H coi loi m thn trn nh phng v
m lc lng nh lm l hai bin th ca m
inh T, song bt k nguyn nhn xut pht t pha Phm nh H hay
nhng ngi sao chp sau ny, chng ti u cho rng cch phn loi
nh vy l bt hp l. Kiu m nh phng v kiu m lc lng nn c
coi l bin th ca m Bnh nh, ring kiu m th ba Phm nh H
miu t - thn trn may b, lm bng vi Thanh Ct, l m thng dng
ca s th, nha li v binh lnh. Gp ngy quc tang th cc quan i thn
1. (Vit) V trung ty bt Quyn thng Quan l. Nguyn vn:
2. (Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch B quan chng phc chi ch. Nguyn vn: 1. (Vit) V trung ty bt Quyn thng Quan l. Nguyn vn:
Cng mc, i Vit s k tc bin c ni dung tng t.
3. T in Vit - B - La. Tr.153, 218.
4. (Hn) Triu Tin vng triu thc lc - Tc Tng - Q.23. Nguyn vn:
khi chu hu cng i, nhng hnh dng m khc
nhau (1) - mi nn coi l bin th ca m inh T.
219
2.3. inh T (Thanh Ct, a La)
M inh T tr thnh m Thng phc
ca b quan vn v nh Trn k t nm 1301.
Tuy nhin sau khi tri qua cc t ci cch trang
(3)
phc trong sut thi Trn - H - L s, n thi L
Trung Hng, kiu dng v i tng s dng ca
m inh T u thay i. Vo thi L Trung
Hng, m inh T phn ln c s dng trong
phm vi quan li cp thp, binh lnh v thng
dn. Ring trong trng hp quc tang, cc quan
i thn, thm ch th t, vng t cng u s
dng m inh T lm t vi Thanh Ct (tc l m Tng cha Ty
Thanh Ct). Hong L nht thng ch miu t Th Phng, H Ni.
t Trnh Tng nm m thy mnh mc o mu qu, u i m inh
T, ng ph ng, ngy hm sau ni vi gia thn: Ta m nh vy,
l im c tang (ch vic cha Trnh Sm mt).(2) Phm nh H cng ghi nhn
gp ngy quc tang, vng cng, khanh s u mc o mu qu.(3)
Theo quy ch nm 1721, m Thanh Ct c p dng lm Thng
phc kim Th phc cho nhng i tng sau:
I TNG S DNG M THANH CT
(theo Loi ch)
Hong t, vng t t chc t hu Khi vo hu dng m Thanh Ct, o
c, c tc qun cng tr ln Thanh Ct kiu ph hu, khng lt
Hong t, vng t t chc c Khi vo hu dng m Thanh Ct, o
ng tri c tc qun cng tr xung Thanh Ct kiu ph hu, c lt
Con chu cc quan v c phong m Khi vo hu lm vic dng m Thanh
tr ln Ct, o Thanh Ct c lt
2. (Vit) Hong L nht thng ch - Hi 1. Nguyn vn:
3. (Vit) V trung ty bt Quyn thng - Y phc. Nguyn vn:
 trung th snh, cc chc hoa vn Khi vo hu lm vic th dng m
hi in v Loi ch th m a La l loi m
hc sinh, n li, x nhn, tng thn Thanh Ct, o Thanh Ct khng lt p dng cho mt s hng quan binh nht
220 li, lnh s, th t, ni th t; cc vn 221
nha mn th cc chc li, li, in nh, phn ln l quan binh cp thp, khng
li, thng li phi trang phc ca quan v ni chung nh
Cc chc l, trn in qun tng M Thanh Ct, o Thanh Ct c lt ghi nhn ca Hi in nh Thanh. L triu
qun, lc s hiu y, thin h, qun
hi in ghi rng, lnh Th hu mc o m
lnh, ph l, chnh y, ph thin
h, trung y, lang tng, ph qun a La [] Tt Nguyn n hng nm, quan
lnh, bch h, ht, ph trung y,
ph lang tng, t hu tin hu lang
binh phin u dng o m a La [] Vo l
tng, y, chnh v y, ph ht, yt in Nam Giao, quan binh th hu theo
t hu tin hu ph lang tng, ph
v y, v y, ph y, ph trung y
hu dng o m a La, ngoi binh dng Qun tng i m a La (nh
Chu Quyn, Ba V).
m a La, o Thanh Ct; vo l Din Th,
Cai i, ph cai i, chnh i trng, M Thanh Ct, o Thanh Ct khng lt
ph i trng d trng coi qun t sm, lnh tng m v lnh th v theo th t vo hu, quan binh
lnh m cha c chc tc
th v u dng m o Thanh Ct, quan
binh tng m u dng o m a La.(1).
Loi ch cho bit, mi khi vua L xut
cung, on L b i gi i theo c
quy nh: cc cm qun ni in nh
cc Hiu th kiu ty, Th cn ty, Th ni ty,
Hiu lc ty, T loan gi ty, Hu loan gi
ty, Kim ng v, Cm y v, Tin t i, Tin
hu i, m dng m a La , o dng
o Thanh Ct, mt tay rng, mt tay hp,
vin np trng, c thy 560 ngi, sp
Dng s nh h, i m inh T, ng kh, th k XVII (Bo tng M thut Vit Nam); Binh lnh
thi L din tp v ngh i m inh T, ng kh, Their Martial Exercise nm1683. (T liu cc
by nghi trng. i i u th c nht
cng ty ng n); Lnh trng trong tranh vua L Nam v Hong hu (Cc b. Bo tng Thi nguyt, c ng phng, c thp nh thn,
Bnh); mt s t liu tranh tng, m inh T d b lm tng loi khn vn thi Nguyn. Tuy
nhin, phn m cong trn nh ra sau gy chnh l c im nhn dng ca m inh T. Khn vn c long vn, ri n 40 gy m vng, 40
ca ngi triu Nguyn, thi k u ch c vn ri quanh u. kim nm bc, 20 con nga, ri 20 Trn

Hnh tng binh lnh tro thuyn

in tng cm di cng i m a La
Ngoi ra, quy ch phm phc ca triu L Trung Hng cn c i m a La, Thanh Ct trn chm , mc o gm xanh, B t voi, di c
mt loi m lm t cht liu a La, c kiu dng tng t m Thanh khc g ti nh Ph Lu (Le nh) bt tt che u gi(2)
Ct, inh T. Theo Thanh triu vn hin thng kho ca nh Thanh v tranh dn gian th k XVIII (Bo
Ch Nam ngc m gii thch: o gai
tng Lch s Vit Nam).
ghi nhn, vo l Triu h, quan v i m a La Ni cc sc, o bo
thng tay lm bng on sc s, o M Qui n vai (ch o khoc ngoi
khng c ng tay o, ch chm n ngang vai) lm bng a La Ni mu . Cng

1. (Vit) L triu hi in (A.52). Nguyn vn: []
c ngi mc B phc thu hnh h bo, voi.(1) Tuy nhin, theo L triu [][]

2. (Vit) Loi ch. Tr.20, 21. Bn dch dch t a La l l gai, y chng ti dng m Hn Vit.
1. (Trung) Thanh triu vn hin thng kho - Quyn 296 - T du t - An Nam. Nguyn vn:
 Tang thng ngu
lc nhn nh Lng
222 223
Cn v Yn V l m Yn
phc, cng tc l Tin
phc. Song trn thc t
Quan Vn i m Quan V i m n
y cng l trang phc
Trng Dip (l kp), Dip (l n), cn c b quan mc khi vo hu
cn c gi l Lng gi l m Yn V (ui
Bc ha vua L xut cung do Samuel Baron v nm 1685 (The Description of Tonqueen). Trang
Cn, phng theo hnh n), phng theo hnh
cha. V trung ty bt
phc m inh T, o giao lnh th hin qua hnh tng vua L trong tranh rt c th l b trang
phc vua s dng khi tang.
dng ch Vn. dng ch V. cn cho bit, Nguyn
Khn v cha Trnh Sm
l La Ni . Cc t a La, a La Ni hay La Ni thc cht u ch
(1)
l bn o vi, khi cha ln ngi (nm 1765), mi khi nghe ht, u lnh
cng mt loi vi gai, phn ln c mu xanh v . Kt hp cc ghi (2)
cho Nguyn Khn ngi hu, ng i Lng Cn, mc Tin phc, ngi ta
chp trn vi t liu tranh tng hin cn, c th khng nh, m a ging ng, cm chu im ht(1).
La, Thanh Ct u c kiu dng nh m inh T. M a La c gi l Ngoi ra, cc sch Cng mc, Loi ch, i Vit s k tc bin, Lch
a La l bi c lm t cht liu a la, tng t trng hp ca m triu tp k, V trung ty bt v Tang thng ngu lc u ghi nhn vic
Thanh Ct. M Thanh Ct c lm bng vi Thanh Ct mu en nn t thn Nguyn Cng Hng ch ra cc loi m dnh cho b quan vn
Phm nh H xp vo dng m th ba ca m inh T. Trang phc v. Song Cng mc, Loi ch, i Vit s k tc bin u gi m Lng
m a La c th kt hp vi o a La, cng c th kt hp vi o Thanh Cn l m Trng Dip, m Yn V l m n Dip(2), ring Cng mc
Ct, o gm xanh. cn dn li Ng Th S cho bit: Nhng nm Bo Thi (1720-1729) ca
Cc loi o ny phn ln c kiu giao lnh, song cng c loi o c bn triu mi t ra quy ch quan v i m n Dip, quan vn i
trn cc tay tng t o M Qui nh miu t ca Thanh triu vn hin m Trng Dip [] T thn Nguyn Cng Hng chit t theo t dng ca
thng kho. ch Vn, ch V m ch ra hai loi m ny.(3) Phm nh H gii thch
2.4. Lng Cn, Yn V Lng Cn l m l, Yn V cn l m ui n(4). Mc Tang nghi,
Tham tng Nguyn Cng Hng nhn thy t thi Trung Hng v Tang phc trong L nghi ch, Phan Huy Ch cho bit, khi c quc tang,
sau, phm phc cha c chnh ng, khi i s lin phng tm quy ch phm m bng sa on Bc, m Lng Cn v m Yn V lc lng u
nh Minh em v nc, n khi lm t tng, nh li phm phc, theo
quy nh: Yn phc, quan vn i Lng Cn, quan v i m Yn V,
o Thanh Ct c ph hu, th n l m inh T kt hp vi o c lt.(3)
1. (Vit) V trung ty bt - Quyn h - Tin in Nguyn tc. Nguyn vn:

2. (Vit) Cng mc. Nguyn vn:
1. (Vit) Ch Nam ngc m gii ngha. Tr.119. []
2. Cht liu ny trong sch Bang giao ch chp l gai la, c mu xanh v . Theo Hn in zdic.net (Theo quy ch c, nha li, binh lnh u mc o Thanh Ct, i m inh T, n y, Tham
th a La Ni trong ting Hn ch cht liu n dt bng len tng i dy. tng Nguyn Cng Hng kin ngh ci i [] L s tc bin ch thch: Quan vn v t nht phm n tam
3. (Vit) Tang thng ngu lc Thng sch - Nguyn Cng Hng. Nguyn vn: phm, ma xun - ma h dng the Bc, ma thu - ma ng dng on Bc, u dng mu huyn. M, quan
[], vn dng m Trng Dip, quan v dng m n Dip; (Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch B quan chng phc
(Vit) V trung ty bt - Quyn thng - Quan l. Nguyn vn: chi ch. Nguyn vn: []
[] (Nm Khang Hy th 57, T tng
Nguyn Cng Hng i s Bc quc phng tm in hin c ca nh Minh, v nc t nh chng phc 3. (Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch - B quan chng phc chi ch. Nguyn vn:
[] Vo bui Thng th, th s th quan vn dng Lng Cn, quan v dng m Yn V, u do ng Nguyn []
Cng Hng ch ra c). 4. (Vit) Nht dng thng m. Tr.63.
 theo dng thc m lm bng sa en Nam, khng lm hoa mu le lot(1). lm bng vin vng. M ca quan t
Chng ti cho rng Yn V lc lng chnh l m Yn V. t phm tr xung khng dng kim
224 225
Tm li, c th thy m Lng Cn v Yn V do tham tng Nguyn tuyn, i dng si t nht mu.
Cng Hng ch to sau khi tham kho quy ch ca nh Minh, trong Vin lng c quy nh ty theo
m Lng Cn tng hnh ch Vn, c hai l ch sang hai bn nn cn phm cp(1). Dng nh s liu thi
c gi l Trng Dip (l kp), m Yn V tng hnh ch V, ch c mt L - Nguyn b st khng cp n
l pha sau m tng t hnh ui n nn c gi l n Dip (l n), loi m ny, song da vo pho tng
thn m c dng lc lng. Chng ti cho rng loi m Lng Cn c t Hong t L nh T th ti cha Bt
thi L s m vua L Thnh Tng tng cm dn gian ch to cng nh Thp, chng ti ng rng m Trung
m Lng Cn en p dng lm Triu phc cho hong t, vng t cha Tnh tng hin din ti triu nh nh
c phong tc, vi loi m Lng Cn phng hnh dng ch Vn do L, c p dng lm m Tin phc Nguyn Siu (th k XVIII, Bo tng M
thut Vit Nam); Bc Cn (Phc nguyn);
Tham tng Nguyn Cng Hng ch ra l hai loi m khc nhau. Vi c i vi mt s v vng cng, i thn Song Si Yeol (Bo tng C cung Seoul).
liu hin c, chng ti cha xc nh c hnh dng c th ca cc loi no .
m ny, nn y nh li di dng tn nghi, ch kho cu v sau. 3.2. Bao nh, Bt Tin, Bc Cn
3. Tin phc Phm nh H k li: Ta thu nh
Khc vi trang phc dn gian, trang phc ngy thng ca b quan thy cc bc tin bi khi nhn c thng
vn c nhng quy ch o m, vi vc c th nhm khu bit danh phn i M V Bao nh (Phm nh H cn gii
tn ti, trn di. Ngoi cc loi m Bnh nh, inh T, Lng Cn, Yn thch: M V cn l m ng M V(2)), kiu dng
V va c coi l Th phc, va c trn, nh phng, cao khong mt thc,
dng lm trang phc thng ngy, cng c ngi i m Bt Tin. i vi
quan li qu tc v nho s thi L Trung nh s th th m Bt Tin v Bc Cn l
Hng cn c cc loi m Tin phc nh Cng phc. M Bt Tin lm bng on
Bao nh, Bt Tin, Bc Cn v.v. mu huyn hoc sa the, nh phng,
3.1. Trung Tnh trn may cnh hoa cc my lp m ln
Theo quy ch ca nh Minh, m nhau, quanh m gp np nh m Trc
Trung Tnh l loi m Tin phc ca cc K lo ngoi thnh H Ni, nm Quan thi c, di dy buc ngang trn,
chc quan i khi nhn h, khng phi 1920. (nh: Albert Kahn). bung phn tha ra sau gy v hai tai c
vo triu. Loi m ny c khung lm dim r, i phng theo m Bao nh m lm thm vn v vy. Bc
bng si st, bn ngoi bc bng the Cn dng Phng Cn gp li m thnh, c th xem Gia l (tc Chu T gia
en, nhung en, chp m hi vung, l).(3) ng cn ni: Nc ta khng c m Truy B, song Bao nh cng
phn gia hi nh, trn m sc cc
M Trung Tnh (Tam ti hi); Hong
t L nh T cha Bt Thp (Bc Ninh) vin lng, p bng si vng, sau m
xa tc, i m Trung Tnh. c hai cnh (gi l nh sn), cng c 1. (Trung) Trung Quc y quan phc sc i t in. Tr.52.
2. (Vit) Nht dng thng m. Tr.63.
3. (Vit) V trung ty bt - Quyn thng - Quan l. Nguyn vn:

1. (Vit) Loi ch - L nghi ch - B quan chng phc chi ch. Nguyn vn:

 c th cha tc, hoc (ngi nc ta) c lc i
Bc Cn.(1)
226 227
Qua miu t ca Phm nh H, c
th thy m Bt Tin thc cht l m M V
Bao nh. Hai loi m ny u c thn trn,
nh phng tng t m vin th Bnh nh
ca vua L, cha Trnh. Nhn chung, mc d
c nhiu tn gi khc nhau, vi chiu cao
v trang sc khc nhau, song kiu m dng
ng nh bng r rng tng rt ph bin
vo thi L Trnh.
Ring Bc Cn, ngay t thi H, Nguyn
Bc tranh Chn dung m ti (Gia Phi Khanh miu t Chng Tc hu Trn
t cn tng) ca ha s Nam Sn,
v nm 1932. Nguyn n i Bc Cn ng nh leo ln
ni(2), chng t Bc Cn xut hin Vit
Nam t kh sm. Bc Cn c kiu dng tng t m ni, song hai bn mang
tai c hai di tht, tht li sau u. Loi khn - m ny thng c kt hp
vi Thm y, vn l mt trong nhng b trang phc trang trng ca nho
s, tng ht sc ph bin ti Trung Quc v
Triu Tin. Vo thi L Trung Hng, theo
cch ni ca Phm nh H, dng nh
tn sut s dng Bc Cn khng ph bin
nh m Bao nh, song thi thong vn c
ngi s dng. V cng theo ng, i tng
s dng Bc Cn ti Vit Nam khng ch
c nho s m cn c c ngi dn thng.
Chng ta c th thy Bc Cn qua tranh
chn dung Nguyn Siu, ph iu chn
dung Ng Th S, tng V Min, tranh
chn dung thn mu ha s Nam Sn, v Tng V Min (1717 - 1782) i
bc nh Albert Kahn chp mt v k lo Bc Cn, mc o giao lnh, th ti
nh th dng h V ti thn Ngc
ngoi H Ni nm 1920. Quan, Bc Ninh.

1. (Vit) V trung ty bt Quyn thng Quan l. Nguyn vn:

Bn dch ca ng Chu Nguyn Hu Tin c nhiu li dch thut, c bit phn kho v o m.
Tranh chn dung Nguyn Siu, th k XVIII (Bo tng M thut Vit Nam).
2. Th vn L Trn. Tp 3. Tr.494. Thanh H ng k. Nguyn vn:
 1. L phc
Thng tin duy nht
228 229
lin quan n L phc
ca hu phi triu L s l
nhng dng miu t ca
Nguyn Tri trong t ch
ban tng Chiu Nghi lm
Hong Thi phi. Sch
Tang thng ngu lc cho
bit: Vn ca Nguyn Tri
hng hn c kh lc nh
Thn s thi L Trung Hng i m the Bnh nh. (Bo tng M thut Vit Nam).
tc phm Bnh Ng i
co, Lam Kinh Vnh Lng
Trn y l mt s kiu m mo thng nht ca quan li qu tc thn o bi c vit vo
c nhc n trong s liu m chng ti hin kho c. Trn thc t, thi Thun Thin (1428-
kiu dng m mo ca cc vn nhn, nho s, qu tc thi L chc hn 1433), chp trong Thc lc, V ch . 1. M Phng Quan v o V ch ca
phong ph, a dng hn nhiu so vi ghi chp ca s liu. Sau ny vo y khng nhc li na. hong hu nh Minh (Tam ti hi); 2. gii trang sc
m ca vng hu Triu Tin (Bo tng C cung Quc lp
u thi Nguyn, vi mun ci i trang phc cho khc hn tin triu Vo thi Thiu Bnh (1434- Seoul); 3. Hai tm o V ch ca vng hu Triu Tin
ng Ngoi, triu nh nh Nguyn ra sc cm cc loi m tng 1439), t Ch tng Chiu hin ct gi ti i hc Sejong Hn Quc.
c s dng ph bin vo thi L. y cng chnh l nguyn do khin Nghi lm Hong Thi phi, ng vit: [] Kho xt di ch Thnh Chu, nn
chng ta thy ngi triu Nguyn sang hn u ng lot bi tc vn phong Thi Phi danh phn, sng t cng lao bo hu, vn trn nghi
khn, mc o di ci khuy, nhng kiu m thng nht dnh cho b l ai vinh. Than i! L phc V ch, v vang khng k mt cn; nm m
quan v nho s phn ln tuyt tch. tuyn i, trang tr sng ngi tri t.(1) Da vo ni dung t ch, c
th thy L phc ca Hong Thi Phi thi vua L Thi Tng l V ch,
III. TRANG PHC HU CUNG loi L phc t nh theo quy ch ca nh Chu, c coi l chun mc
T liu trang phc hu cung thi L, Trn, H, L hin thy khng ca Nho gio. y cng l dng L phc chung ca hu phi cc triu
ngoi mt s pho tng c to dng vo th k XVII, XVIII mang Tng - Minh, Triu Tin v Lu Cu. Theo Chu l, V ch l L phc tn
nhng nt trang phc c trng ca mnh ph thi L Trung Hng. Da qu nht trong su loi trang phc ca hu phi, tng ng vi trang
vo tnh ng i v nhng c im chung ca cc pho tng, chng ta phc Cn Min ca hong . B trang phc ny va l T phc kim
cng ch c th on nh c mt phn no trang phc ca chnh triu Triu phc, ng thi cng l ct phc ca hong hu, phi tn s dng
L Trung Hng, khng th loi suy trang phc ca cc triu i khc. D trong cc dp i l sch phong v hn l. V ch vn c mu en huyn,
nhin, mt s kiu o nh o giao lnh, c trn, t thn i khm xut thu v hoa vn chim tr. T thi ng tr v sau sc o c i sang
hin t thi L - Trn, song s kt hp gia cc dng y phc v trang sc
to nn b L phc, Thng phc dnh cho hong hu, vng phi v
cng cha v.v. mi thi mi khc bit. 1. (Vit) Tang thng ngu lc - L Cng Tri v (Vit) c Trai di tp - Q.3. Nguyn vn:


 mu xanh sm, hoa vn chim tr c Tuy nhin, t thi L Trung Hng
thu khp o theo mi hai hng, vin tr v sau, khng r quy ch V ch
230 231
c o, tay o u c thu rng . (1)
ca hu phi c b ph b tng t
Khc vi s n nh ca o V quy ch Cn Min ca hong hay
ch, loi m kt hp vi L phc ny khng?
mi mt triu i li c nhng quy Bn cnh , qua kho st cc
ch khc bit. Ti Trung Quc, vo thi pho tng Hong hu Ngc Bch,
Hn, hong hu s dng Cn Quc, Hong hu Ngc Onh, Hong
thi ng dng trm thoa hnh hoa, hu Ngc Trc (cha Mt, Thanh
thi Tng Minh dng Phng Quan. Hin vt o V ch ca vng hu Ha), Qun cha Trnh Th Ngc
Triu Tin (i hc Sejong Hn Quc
Ti Triu Tin, ngoi Phng Quan, ct gi). C, Cng cha L Th Ngc Duyn
trong nhiu trng hp mi tc ca (cha Bt Thp, Bc Ninh), chng
M th hin trn pho tng Qun cha Trnh
vng hu cn c vn tt thnh mt bi ln nh u, chung quanh ti nhn thy nhng chic m th Th Ngc C, Cng cha L Th Ngc Duyn
(th k XVIII, cha Bt Thp, Bc Ninh).
ci cc trang sc hoa trn, trm vng tr hnh chim phng ln nh. hin trn cc pho tng ny u c
chung mt m tp. Thn m u c vy kn bi cc hoa vn dng la.
Gia trn m c trang sc tng Pht ngi kit gi. nh m cn c
trang sc hnh ch nht, mt u gn sau trn m, mt u t ln bi
tc. To hnh ht sc gn gi vi cc loi m th hin trn tng Pht
cha Ma, tng Pht b cha Sng Nghim Din Thnh, cha Ngo v
mt s tranh v B Tt Ph Hin.
Kt hp vi loi m mang
m m hng Pht gio ny,
phn ln l dng o giao lnh, i
cng vi o i khm v thng.
Ring hai pho tng Hong hu
Trnh Th Ngc Trc v Hong
hu Phm Th Ngc Onh cn
Trang phc V ch ca vng phi Triu Tin (phc ch); Chn dung Hong hu Tng khoc vn kin nm hnh rng
Thn Tng v Hong hu Tng Huy Tng thi Tng (Bo tng C Cung i Bc).
phng ph trn vai, pha di
Tnh ti thi im hin nay, t liu lin quan n b trang phc V Tng Pht b cha Ngo, Phc Th. (nh: Nguyn nh cc di anh lc di che lng
Th Dung).
ch ch tn ti trong vi dng ghi chp vn gn, tng t trng hp L v bng. Phn ln vin o, vin
phc Cn Min ca cc triu i L - Trn. Song vi s ph bin v tnh dy buc tc v vin tay o u c thu dt nhng hoa vn hoa cun
n nh ca b L phc ny, chng ti ng rng, V ch khng ch l L an xen. Mt s b phi cn mc ym nh cc trang sc vng, ngc, hoc
phc ca hu phi triu L s, m c th cn c nin i sm hn na. eo vng trang sc nhiu tng, tot ln v sang trng, qu phi.

1. Tham kho Trung Quc phc sc i t in (Tr.136) v http://zh.wikipedia.org/wiki/

 ngoi. Ngoi ra, mt s hnh
tng cng cha, mnh ph
232 233
th hin trn cc pho tng
th ti cha Ph Minh, Qun
S, Th H v.v. c nin i th
k XVII, XVIII u mc mt
loi vy di quy ngang c,
c tht li bng di la
di ngc, ngoi cng khoc
o i khm, hu ht u xa
tc theo tc tc thi L
1. Hong hu Trnh Th Ngc Trc (cha Bt Thp, Bc
Trung Hng. Cc dng trang Ninh); 2. Cng cha Mc Ngc Lm, cha Ph Minh,
phc th hin trn cc pho Nam nh. (nh: TQ).

tng ny nhiu kh nng

u c t thc.

Chn dung Minh Nhn Nh nhn Bi Th Gic (1738 - 1805)

(Bo tng M thut Vit Nam).

Chng ti cho rng, kiu m tng t vng min, mang hi hng

tn gio, kt hp vi cc dng o giao lnh, t thn i khm, vn kin,
di trang sc anh lc, thm ch phi vi trng ht c th l mt trong
nhng b L phc ca hu phi nh L Trung Hng.
2. Tin phc
Da vo cc pho tng Hong hu Trng Lc (cha Huy Vn), Hong
hu Trnh Th Ngc Trc (cha Bt Thp), tranh chn dung Nh nhn Bi
Th Gic th k XVIII v cc bc tranh mnh ph An Nam trong Hong
Thanh chc cng , c th thy vo ngy thng, trang phc ca cc b
Cng cha L Th Ngc Quyn (cha Bt Thp, Bc Ninh); Phu nhn Qun cng Nguyn Th M
hu phi, mnh ph thi L Trung Hng, phn ln vn l dng o giao lnh, (Bo tng M thut Vit Nam); Qun cha Trnh Th Ngc C (cha Bt Thp); Chiu nghi L Th
o t thn thng tay, c th cn c mt lp o Sam mng mc chong ra Ngc Hon; Hong hu Ngc Bch; Hong hu ngi H Lan (cha Mt Sn, Thanh Ha).
 IV. TRANG PHC QUN I hai chic sng(1). Chng t da tru l mt
Thi L Trung Hng, m trong nhng nguyn liu chnh may qun
234 235
Phc u v cc dng nn sn phc, c bit l Gip Tr ca tng lnh.
vn c duy tr lm m Triu Mt khc, khng t lng m ca vua quan
phc, Thng phc dnh cho tng lnh triu L u c tng tng s mc
cc chc quan v cp cao. Cc Gip Tr ng canh gc, m thc to tng
bin th ca m inh T, T gn nh ng nht. iu cho thy ngoi b
Phng Bnh nh c quy Gip Tr gin tin nh Thanh triu vn hin
nh lm qun trang cho cc thng kho ghi nhn, qun trang ca triu L
chc quan v cp thp v binh Trung Hng cn c quy ch Gip Tr ring
lnh. Phn trn, chng ti ln bit. C iu, b Gip Tr th hin trn cc pho
Quan v triu L Trung Hng trong tranh ca Jean- lt trnh by quy ch ca cc tng tng s thi L Trung Hng thng a
Baptiste Tavernier (1605 - 1689).
V quan v nh s 1 c ch thch: i thn loi m Phc u, Thanh Ct, dng v kiu cch. Trc tnh trng thiu ht
ca Vng quc ng Kinh; v quan v c nh a La. phn ny, chng ti s t liu vn t v hin vt i chng, chng
s 4 c ch thch: Quan v hoc s quan chin
tranh? Theo quy ch Triu phc ca v quan thi tip tc trnh by quy ch c th ti cha th xc nh c u l b Gip Tr
L Trung Hng, xp theo th hng tn ti, ln lt ca cc dng nn sn v th ln Quan v triu L Trung Hng chun mc ca tng s triu L. Song chng
gm: m Phc u, nn sn bc nh hng mao, xa tc, i nn sn chp nh
nn sn son nh hng mao, m Thanh Ct, m a tm din mo trang phc Gip hng mao. (Nhng khu truyn ti mnh dn t gi thit Gip Tr triu L
La. Vy nn v i thn ca Vng quc ng Tr p dng cho mt s i gio ca cha Marini). khng ch c mt kiu dng n nht, c th
Kinh v hai v v quan trong tranh hn i nn sn
bc nh hng mao. (Trong cc hnh v trn, B t qun c bit ca triu nh. c mt s quy ch Gip Tr ring bit p dng i vi mt s hng tng
trn ngc o cc quan u b che khut). 1. Gip Tr t khc nhau.
L Thnh Tng tng ra ch 2. Nn sn
d ni: Nhng th o Gip, m Tr l kh th qun i thm trang Quy ch Triu phc dnh cho ban v ca triu L Trung Hng k
nghim.(1) Song cng nh thi L, Trn, H, Gip Tr thi L ch cn li tha quy ch Triu phc nm 1500 thi vua L Hin Tng, quy nh: cc
danh xng, khng c miu t c th v kiu dng, trang sc. Theo Thanh quan v t, ng phm i nn bc, lc phm tr xung i nn son(2). So
triu vn hin thng kho, binh ch triu L Trung Hng coi o a La snh quy ch nm 1661, 1721 v 1725 chp trong Cng mc v Loi ch,
Ni kt hp vi m l Khi Gip (tc Gip Tr). Mt s pho tng qun s
(2)
c th thy khi nim nn sn son, nn sn bc ng nht vi khi nim
ti lng Dinh Hng (Bc Giang) v ph iu g cha Ci (Vnh Phc) nn son, nn bc. Ngoi ra, L triu thin chnh in l v Cng mc
th k XVI, u i m Tr hp vnh kt hp vi o giao lnh, c th l u cho bit, trn chp ca hai loi nn ny cn c nh hng mao(3).
khi nim Khi Gip m Vn hin thng kho ca nh Thanh ghi nhn.
Tuy nhin, theo quy ch binh dng chp trong L triu hi in,
trc kia, tt c trn th cc x v cc ch trong kinh u phi np 100 1. (Vit) L triu hi in. Tr.98.
2. (Vit) Ton th - Mc thng 10 nm 1500. Nguyn vn: []
tm da tru may qun phc, ng thi phi np km mi b da tru T phm ti Ng phm, m th quan v dng Nn bc, quan vn
dng m Phc u khng trang sc [] Lc phm tr xung, m th quan v dng nn son, quan vn dng
m Phc u khng trang sc. (Vit) Cng mc - Mc thng 11 nm 1725. Nguyn vn:
T, ng phm, quan v dng nn bc,
1. (Vit) Ton th - Mc ngy 9.4.1496. Nguyn vn: quan vn dng m Phc u sc thau. Lc phm tr xung, quan v dng nn son, quan vn dng m Phc
2. (Trung) Thanh triu vn hin thng kho - Q.296 - T du t - An Nam. Nguyn vn: u khng trang sc. Php quan i m Gii Tri.
3. (Vit) Cng mc - Mc thng 6 nm 1661. Nguyn vn: ,
 L triu hi in cn
QUY CH NN SN
ghi nhn loi nn son
P DNG CHO BAN V TRIU L TRUNG HNG 237
236 dnh cho to s, v c
nhn l nn sn son, hai
Nm 1661 Nm 1721
(theo Cng mc) (theo Loi ch) dim che tai vin thau.
Loi Nn sn bc Nn sn son Nn sn bc Nn sn son nh Mi chic chun cho 8
nn nh hng nh hng nh hng hng mao mch, 3 lng hng mao(1)
mao mao mao
tng t quy ch m Phc
Hong t, Tam phm, Hong t, ch huy s,
vng t t phm gia vng t chc ch huy ng tri, u ca tin s ban vn.
phong phong tc hiu kim, ch huy thim 3. Cc dng trang
hiu im, hu c, s, ch huy s, ch
c, tham lnh, tham huy ng tri, ch phc khc
i c, lnh c, v s huy thim s, tng S sch chnh thng
tng gia phong m c tc tri, ng tng tri,
v qun cng qun cng thim tng tri tc thng ch tp trung m
trang hu t quy ch o mo ca
phc
i Trang phc: b quan vn v cp cao,
km Trang phc: o - B Trang phc: Trang phc: o him khi nhc ti qun
o - B t t Voi - Thao o - B t giao lnh - B t
S t - Thao n - Cm S t - Thao Voi - Thao n trang ca mt s hng
kp xu ngc kim kp xu ngc - lnh tiu tt. Loi ch,
- Cm kim Cm kim
L triu hi in, L triu Nn thy th (Ngi trn tu bun i nn ny, hoc khi
Nh phm gia Ng, lc, tht hiu kim, l, trn in
phong tc phm c, qun tng qun, chiu lnh thin chnh tri nng ma dng che u), nn mc ng (Nn ny
lm bng l bng. L ny mc nhiu trong Thanh) nh
hu lnh, tham lc s hiu y, l nhng cun sch ghi chic st (K thut ca ngi An Nam); Quan v (Tranh c
c, v s thin h, qun Vit Nam); Quan v Tonkin (Jean-Baptiste Tavernier); Lnh
tc qun lnh, y, trung chp t m nht v quy ch
cm c (Bo tng Lch s Vit Nam).
Trang phc: Trang phc: cng y, lang tng, trang phc ca b quan
o - B t o khng bch h, ht, t
Voi - Dy thao nh B t - Trang phc: hu tin hu lang triu L Trung Hng, song cng khng nhc ti nhng loi nn ph bin
n - Cm Dy thao n o - B t tng, v y, v vo thi L s nh nn Thy Ma, nn da, nn ng trng v.v. Tng t,
kim - Cm kim H bo - Thao y (chnh - ph
kp - Cm khng phn bit) Hi in ca triu Nguyn cng khng cp ti quy ch c th ca
kim nhng dng nn c p dng lm qun trang ng thi. Trong khi ,
Trang phc: o
hiu im, giao lnh khng kh c th ph nhn rng vic s dng nn lm qun trang c k
c, tham c B t - Thao
c, ph tha mun nht l t thi L s ti thi Nguyn.
n. Chc trn
c, lnh th in cm kim v Ring loi nn p dng cho binh lnh thi L Trung Hng, chng
v, t hu hiu di ng, cn li
im tc hu ta ch tm thy vi dng ghi chp t i ca Phm nh H qua V trung
cm kim
ty bt. ng cho bit: Qun lnh i Tro lp, tc gi l nn cho vnh
Trang phc:
o - B t [] n nh hai vng Thanh Ngh th ngi ta u i Vin C lp (vin
Voi - Thao n c: ci st trn), tc gi l nn Ngh [] n khong nm Nhm Dn, Qu
- Cm kim

1. (Vit) L triu hi in (A.52). Nguyn vn:

 Mo (1782-1783) qun Tam
ph lm lon, cy cng lm
238
cn, nhiu ngi i nn
Vin C ln vi lnh, dn
chuyn thnh tc [] n
nm Bnh Ng (1786) trong
nc c bin, li b Vin
C i Cu Din [] nn
Tro khng cn thy na. (1)
Nh vy, qun lnh thi L
Trung Hng ngoi mt s
loi m nh a La, Thanh
Ct, cn s dng nn lm
qun trang. Nn qun trang
t nht c nn Tro v nn
Vin C, nhng t nm 1786
tr v sau, cc loi nn ny
dn b loi b. Mt s tranh
v v quan, binh lnh triu
L Trung Hng xut hin
Mt s dng m Tr th hin trn cc pho tng tng
s thi L Trung Hng. mt s dng nn m, song hnh dng c th ra sao, song t nht y cng l mt trong nhng dng
danh xng v quy ch c th
ca cc loi nn m ny hin vn cha c t liu vn t c th i
chiu.
Ngoi ra, i vi qun trang ca mt s hng lnh cp thp, ngoi
b khinh trang mnh trn ng kh nh hnh tng lnh Giao Ch v
trong Boxer Codex nm 1590, Phm nh H qua cu chuyn Ngi
nng phu ln kinh cn cho bit: Mt tn lnh i Trch mu , tc
gi l K Quan cn (m mo g), tay cm kim, l ngi quen c, thy
nng phu lin mng r, ci Trch i cho anh ta.(2) Trung Quc y quan
phc sc i t in (Tr.119) nh ngha: Phng ngn ca Dng Hng
(thi Hn) vit: Khn ph
ln bi tc gi l khn Trch
239
[] Loi khn ny vn c
s dng trong dn gian, cui
thi Ty Hn sang hn u s
dng, ngi bnh dn khng
i m, qu tc i m th i
ln trn Trch [] n thi
Hn Vn kiu dng khn
Trch c thay i nh ni
rng vnh khn, gia thm hai
dim che tai, ng thi che
nh u.[] Hu Hn th -
D phc ch h vit: n thi
Hiu Vn lin chnh vnh Tng tng s ti lng Thi phi Nguyn Th Ngc
Dim, lng a Bt, x Vnh Tn, huyn Vnh Lc,
khn cao ln, cho thm dim Thanh Ha. (nh: TQ).
che tai, n khn ln lm vm
m, chm vo pha sau th thu li, qun thn trn di sang hn u i
[] m v li thng i Trch mu , cho c uy nghim. Chng
ta cha r loi Trch mu trng nh mo g ti Vit Nam rt cuc c
qun trang ca hng lnh tiu tt thi L Trung Hng.

1. (Vit) V trung ty bt - Quyn thng - Lp. Nguyn vn: []

[] Hnh tng binh lnh trn chm khc g (Le nh) v tng lnh canh lng Dinh Hng
. [] (Bc Giang) i m Tr, mc o giao lnh. (nh: TQ).
2. (Vit) Tang thng ngu lc - Thng sch - Nh kinh nng phu. Nguyn vn:

 V. TRANG PHC DN GIAN
1. Y phc
240 241
Nu coi o di c ng ci
khuy l quc phc ca triu Nguyn
th o giao lnh - trng vt hn phi
l quc phc ca triu L. y l
dng trang phc tng c s dng o giao lnh, cn gi l trc lnh (c thng), i lnh (c ln), trng
rng ri trn ton ci ng. lnh (c di). Mt s chic o giao lnh thi L Trung Hng khai qut
ti vn o Nht Tn (nh: GS.TS. Nguyn Ln Cng cung cp).
Vo nm 1681, Jean Baptiste
Tavernier m t cch n mc ca o T in c trn thi Trn v o giao lnh Cc loi qun o kiu Khch cn thy phi i theo th ch quc tc []
trng vt th hin trong bc tranh Ging hc
ngi Vit trang trng v n gin. n ng, n b mc o trc lnh ngn tay (tc o giao lnh vi chiu di ng
th k XVIII. (Cc b. Bo tng Lch s).
l mt ci o di n gt chn, tay o chm n c tay), ng tay o rng hp cho c ty tin. o th t hai
gn ging o di ca Nht Bn, n ng v n b n mc ging nhau bn nch tr xung u nn may khp li, khng c m, khng c
khng phn bit. o di h mc c tht khong gia thn bng mt chit eo. Ring n ng nu mun mc o c trn hp tay tin lm
ci tht lng la, eo vng, bc nh rt p. Loi o di gn ging
(1)
vic cng c. L phc dng o trc lnh ng tay di, hoc may bng
kimono ca ngi Nht, c n ng v n b i Vit thi L s vi Thanh Ct, hoc vi thm, hoc vi trng ty nghi.(1) Trnh Hoi
dng rng ri chnh l o giao lnh. Qua sc lnh ca triu nh L Trnh c cng cho bit, trc khi din ra cuc ci cch y phc ng Trong
yu cu nhn dn vng Thun Ha, vn nht lot i mc o di c nm 1744, ngi Vit ti thnh Gia nh vn tun theo tp tc c ca
ng t nm 1744, phi i li y phc, c th thy kiu o giao lnh v o Giao Ch, ngi dn xa tc i chn t, nam n u dng o trc lnh
c trn trong quan nim ca triu nh nh L chnh l dng o quc ngn tay, o may khp li hai bn nch, khng c qun, n ng dng
tc. L Qu n cho bit: Ma xun nm Bnh Dn, t Trn ph Nha mt kh vi qun quanh eo, n di mng th b li tht vo vng rn,
mn ( Thun Ha). Bt gi l ci kh, n b c loi vy quy khng gp np, i nn ln(2). Qua
u t thng 7, tuyn li ghi nhn ca L Qu n v Trnh Hoi c, c th thy loi o giao
r d rng: Y phc lnh s dng rng ri ng thi khng chit eo v cng khng x vt
bn quc (ch y phc nh qu cao nh loi o di kiu Khch, tin thn ca dng o di nm thn.
L) c ch ring, a Mt khc, nam gii thng dn ngi Vit thng ch ng kh, mc
phng ny trc y trm o giao lnh ra bn ngoi, nht l nhng vng t quanh nm
cng tun theo quc nng bc. Kiu cch trang phc ny chng ta cn tm thy trong m t
tc. Nay cung vng ca quan nh Thanh, L Tin Cn, n ng n b u mc o c ln,
Thng c, dp yn
bin phng, trong
1. (Vit) Ph bin tp lc. Phong tc. Nguyn vn:
ngoi thng nht,
chnh tr v phong tc []
Ngi Giao Ch (ng Ngoi) v ngi Qung Nam (ng
Trong) trong Boxer Codex (nm 1590).
cng nn nh mt.
2. (Vit) Gia nh thnh thng ch - Phong tc. Nguyn vn: []

1. Tp du k mi v k th v vng quc ng Ngoi (1681). Tr.43.
 khng phn bit, khng c qun, n b c vy quy khng gp np(1),
hay thm ch c th truy ln n thi Trn H qua Trc Lm i s xut
242 243
sn v bc Giao Ch quc trong Tam ti hi.

Tranh th th k XVIII ti nh Ngoi, Thanh Lit, H Ni. (nh: TQ).

Ngoi kiu o giao lnh, c trn th cc dng o t thn, vy p,

ym v kh u l nhng kiu trang phc truyn thng, c cu hin
din t thi L - Trn v tip tc c k tha vo thi L - Nguyn.
Jerome Richard miu t ngi Vit ng Ngoi nm 1778, cho bit:
Nhng ngi ph n ni chung n mc kh khim nh. H mc mt
chic vy di v mt hoc nhiu o cng kiu nh ca nam gii nhng
chng ngn hn. H buc quanh ngc mt chic ym l mt mnh vi
hoc mt mnh la c hnh tri tim, dng lm p cho h [] Nhng
ngi giu hoc c phm tc mc lt cc rng v di, o ng c tay
hp v ngn cng kiu vi o di bn trong v bn ngoi ca h [] Qun
o ca dn ng Ngoi a dng v mu sc. Thng thng nht l mu
trng. C ngha l mu sc t nhin ca la hoc ca vi. Mu en ph
hp vi nhng ngi c trng vng nht.(2) Thanh triu vn hin
thng kho cng c ghi nhn tng t: n ng n b u xa tc,
i t. Qun o hoc lm bng vi hoc lm bng la, phn ln dng
sc trng. n ng dng vi tht lng, sau lun xung di mng
Mt s tranh chn dung thi L Trung Hng. 1. Kin trung hu Trnh nh Kin (1715 - 1786) (Nh
th h Trnh ti Thnh Cng, H Ni); 2.Tham Tng Nguyn Qu c (1648 - 1720); 3. Thng
th Nguyn Qu Knh (1693 - 1766) (Bo tng M thut Vit Nam); 4. Quc Uy cng Nguyn
1. (Trung) An Nam truyn, An Nam tp k, An Nam du k An Nam tp k:
Phc Thun (1653 - 1675) (Nh th Quc Uy cng ti lng D L, huyn Hng Thy, Hu).

2. Lch s t nhin, dn s v chnh tr x ng Ngoi. Dn theo Tuyn tp t liu phng Ty. Tr.214-216.
 tr ra pha trc tht bc li. n b dng vi la che ngc.(1) v.v. Cc dng nn vn c k tha vo
ghi chp, m t ny hon ton khp vi nhng bc v ngi Giao Ch, thi Nguyn, c khc ha trong
244 245
Qung Nam trong Boxer Codex (1590). K thut ca ngi An Nam. Phm
Ngoi ra, v phc nh H k li: Hi ti tm chn
sc che u c trng tui (khong nm 1776-1777), thy ngi
ca ngi Vit phi k gi i Ngoan Xc lp (ngoan xc:

n nn. Vo thi L, mai ca con gii), tc gi l nn mu

Chu Kh Phi miu t gii (nn c mu ta mu con gii) hoc
ngi Vit hay i loi i nn Tam Giang. Con ci nh
nn nh hnh v c, gi quan v cc hc tr trng Gim
l Loa lp. Vo thi L s, th i Phng u i lp (phng
qua ghi nhn ca Ton u: ci u vung), tc gi l nn l.
th, nn Thy Ma, nn H hng nh quan m cao tui
mu trng ng, nn sn th i C Chu lp, tc gi l nn
v.v. l cc dng nn qun du, trung nin hoc tr tui th
trang. n u thi L i Lin Dip lp, tc gi l nn l
Trung Hng, nm 1688, sen. n ng, n b, s th trong
1. Ngi Vit thi L Trung Hng trong Hong Thanh theo m t ca William kinh thnh u i C Chu lp, MT S LOI NN TRONG
chc cng ; 2. ng s, ng quan, ng T bnh vn,
N quan nghnh hn trong K thut ca ngi An Nam. Dampier, ngi Vit i Tiu Lin Dip lp, tc gi l K THUT CA NGI AN NAM

Bc v ngi An Nam trong Hong Thanh chc cng ng ta nhn thy lc nn nh khun. n ng n b 1. Nn Trung k; Nn ny ngi Trung
c ch thch: n ng i m c trng ln, hnh
nh ci vc p, mc o trng lnh thng, tay cm qut ny thng u trn, thn qu i Xun Li tiu lp, tc k i; Nn nh hiu. 2. Nn tiu phu; 3.
Ngi nh qu i nn ny; 4. Nn sn.
chui, x giy m i. Ngi ngho th mc o ngn, i khng my khi i nn gi l nn s nh. Qun lnh i Nhiu nho s v thng nhn i. Bn
chn t, cn c cy cy. Ph n qu tc xa tc, khng
ci trm, tai eo kim hon [] Ph n ly kh vi che m, ngoi tr khi tri Tro lp, tc gi l nn cho vnh. trong lm bng l, bn ngoi dng l tre
tt li, ri sc bng sn. 5. Nn n b,
u, o di vt di, i giy l gt, gp nhau th ly tru
ma; ch c nhng ngi Ngi hu h v v con qun lnh tc gi l ba tm; 6. Nn inh phu, n
cau lm l, gii cc vic thu tha, bp nc.
dn chi v th thuyn i Vin u lp (vin u: ci u trn), ng nh ngho i nn ny che ma
nng. 7. Nn Bc Ninh, di lm bng vi
mi thng xuyn i tc gi l nn kha. Nh s v o xanh; 8. Nn hn l, ngy xa n du
th dng, nay thay i; 9. Nn nh s.
nn rng vnh, nh phng nh tm vn. (2)
Song Nishikawa Joken, s i Cu Din lp (cu: ci l bt c),
Ngi c tang cng dng.
tc gi ca Hoa Di thng thng kho, li c ghi nhn hon ton tri tc gi l nn mt l. Ngi c tang
ngc vi William Dampier. ng cho bit khong nhng nm 1645, i Xun Li i lp, tc gi l nn cp. Ngi tang mt nm tr
ngi Vit h i b th t i nn . V theo ghi nhn ca Phm nh
(3)
xung i C Chu lp, buc thm quai my. Ring nh quyn th c
H c th thy n cui thi L Trung Hng, cc dng nn ht sc tang th i Cu Din lp phn bit. n nh hai vng Thanh Ngh
phong ph v ph bin trong dn gian Vit Nam. Trong c nhiu th ngi ta u i Vin C lp (vin c: ci st trn), tc gi l nn Ngh.
Ngi Mn Nng ngoi trn u i Tim Quang u Nhc lp,
1. (Trung) Thanh triu vn hin thng kho - Q.296 - T du t - An Nam. Nguyn vn: hnh nh nn kha m chp nhn, lm bng v mng na, l khc vi
ngi t ching. n khong nm Nhm Dn, Qu Mo (1782-1783)
2. Mt chuyn du hnh n ng Ngoi nm 1688. Tr.61.
3. (Nht) Tng b Hoa Di thng thng kho - Q.3 - Giao Ch. Tr.11. Nguyn vn: qun Tam ph lm lon, cy cng lm cn, nhiu ngi i nn Vin
 C ln vi lnh, dn chuyn thnh tc. n nm Bnh Ng (1786) c coi l p(1). V hn 100 nm sau,
trong nc c bin, li b Vin C i Cu Din, ngi tang mt nm 1792, ngi Vit vng ng Trong
246 247
nm tr xung, buc quai si trng phn bit. thn qu th phng quan nim tc ngn khng nhng
theo dng nn Ngoan Xc m h thp phn trn xung, gi l Toan b coi nh du hiu ca s th tc, m
B lp, tc gi l nn v ba. Thnh thong c ngi i Xun Li tiu cn l biu th ca s thoi ha(2)
lp, cn nhng nn nh nn Ngoan Xc, Tam Giang, Phng u, C Nh vy, quan nim v mi tc
Chu, Lin Dip v Tro lp th khng thy na. (1)
ca ngi Vit thi L s thay i so
vi ngi thi Trn, v cng hon ton
khc bit so vi ngi thi L Trung
Hng. Vo thi L Trung Hng, theo
Alexandre de Rhodes, triu nh nh
L ra lnh t nay dn ng Ngoi
khng kt tc bc trong li trn u
nh ngi Tu, v t ra c lp, h
b tc di ta trn vai.(3) Cha Marini
Lch s t nhin, dn s v chnh tr x ng Ngoi nm 1778 (Jerome Richard) cho bit: Dn cng ghi nhn di thi Bc thuc (ch Cnh dy hc thi L Trung Hng
chng khng mc qun o cho tr con khi chng di 6, 7 tui. Mt vi ngi khoc ln chng mt thi thuc Minh), c n ng v ph n (Ging hc , th k XVIII, Bo tng
ci o ch di n rn. a phn bn tr con x ny hon ton trn trung. Lch s Vit Nam) v thi Nguyn.
u tc bi cao nhng khi thot khi
2. Kiu tc ch h, h th tc xung v i chn
Sau lnh cm co trc i vi nhng ngi khng phi s si vo trn nh l biu tng ca s t do.(4)
nm 1470, thi tc co trc trong dn gian dn bin mt. Theo Jean- Ngha l triu nh cm dn gian bi tc
Baptiste, vo nm 1642, ngi Vit lc ny cho rng u trc l mt tht Vng cn nh phong tc ca ngi
hnh ng xc phm n danh d, v ch c nhng k phm ti hnh s, Minh. Lc ny, ngi Vit hu ht u
khi b bt mi b co trc u. Ring tc ct tc ngn t nht vn tip tc di, bung xa trn vai.
tc c ngi Vit duy tr n tn nm 1513 vi ghi nhn ca s thn Chng ta c th kim chng tc
nh Minh, Phan Hy Tng. Chng ta hin cha r tc ct tc ngn chnh xa tc qua mt lot t liu tranh tng
thc bin mt vo nm no, ch bit hn 80 nm sau, nm 1621, sau khi thi L Trung Hng, cng nh v s
nh L Trung Hng thnh lp, Christophoro Borri ghi nhn ngi Vit nhng ghi chp ca cc nh du hnh, s
tc xa v r xung vai, c ngi tc di chm t, cng di cng thn ngoi quc m t dung mo ngi
Vit th k XVII, XVIII, nh nm 1621,
1. (Vit) V trung ty bt - Quyn thng - Lp. Nguyn vn: Ca nng cm n y th k XVIII. Christophoro Borri ghi nhn H cng
(Bo tng M thut Vit Nam; nh
tc di nh n b, cho xa tc ti gt
Ngoi, Thanh Lit, H Ni. nh: TQ).


1. X ng Trong nm 1621. Tr. 54.
2. Mt chuyn du hnh n x Nam H (1792-1793). Tr. 83.
3. Lch s vng quc ng Ngoi. Tr.4.
4. Dn theo Nhng l khch trong hnh trnh khm ph Vit Nam. Tr.58.
 chn v cng i nn; nm 1685 Samuel Baron m t Bt lun nam ca Samuel Baron,
hay n u mi tc di thng xung. (1)
Nm 1688, William Dampier bc Triu phc b
248 249
cng miu t:Tc h en, di v rt dy, xa xung tn vai [] Rng quan vn v ti vng
h en ht mc h c th lm c, v h coi y l mt li trang im cao ph ca Jean Baptiste
qu. L Tin Cn (1621-1690) ngi thi Thanh cho bit: Ngi nc
(2)
Tavernier, hnh quan
y xa tc, dng sp thm chi tc nn khng b bung, i t, song chn vn quan v trong
khng c bi bn, chng bi t u l ct sch. Nm 1691, triu thn
(3)
Nhng khu truyn gio
Mn m tr li vua Triu Tin Tc Tng v phong tc ca ngi Vit, p ca cha Marini, qua m
rng: Bt k ngi sang k hn u bung xa mi tc, nhai tru cau lun t ca s thn Han Tae
ming, i p vi khch cng khng ngng, rng u en nh sn. Tnh Dong nm 1713: M Tranh chn dung Phng Khc Khoan th ti nh th h Phng,
cch ca h i knh kiu dng dng nhng khi gp g giao tip cng Sa, o c trn, ai tht, Thch Tht, H Ni.
rt bit l ngha, khim nhng.(4) phm trt i nh ch nc ta, duy c vic xa tc bung ra pha
sau ri i m ln l him thy m thi(1), qua m t ca s thn Seo
Ho Su nm 1713: Quan An Nam bi tc, bung xa phn cn li ra sau,
ri mi i m Sa(2). Thm ch Phng Khc Khoan khi vo chu vua
Minh bi tc theo phong tc ca thin triu, song ngay sau khi v s
qun ng lp tc r b ngay. S thn Triu Tin L Toi Quang miu
t: ng tuy rt gi nhng sc lc cn khe, thng c sch vit lch
khng ngng. Gp ngy triu hi vo chu ca khuyt th bi tc i m,
nht nht noi theo phc sc ca thin triu, nhng nom sc mt ng c
v nhn nh kh chu, va v l ci b ngay. C on hai mi ba ngi
u xa tc. Ngi cao sang th sn rng, k h tin th mc o ngn i
t, d vo ma ng vn i t, khng x tt di. Chng phong tc ca
h l vy.(3)
Tuy c thi quen bung xa tc di, nhng khi cn gn gng thun
Chn dung cc gio s ngi Vit nm 1688, v bi Carlo Maratta. (Dn theo Siam and the Vati- tin, mt cch ht sc t nhin, ngi Vit li bi mt bi tc sau u.
can in the seventeenth century).
Khong nhng nm 1695, nh s Thch i Sn m t nhng ngi Vit
V chung bung xa mi tc di, khng t v quan nh L khi vo ng Trong trn thuyn u ci trn xa tc, dng mnh vi qun
chu u xa tc i m, hoc bi mt phn tc, phn cn li bung
xa. Kiu tc ny ta c th kim chng qua bc tranh Ph cha Trnh 1. (Hn) Yn hnh lc - Hn Thi ng - Lng th Yn hnh lc. Tr.233. Dn theo Ct Triu Quang. i
Minh y quan kim h ti. S hc nguyt san. K 10 - 2005. Nguyn vn:

1. M t vng quc ng Ngoi. Tr.108. 2. (Hn) Yn hnh k - Q.2. Tr.459. Dn theo Ct Triu Quang. i Minh y quan kim h ti, S hc nguyt
2. Mt chuyn du hnh n ng Ngoi nm 1688. Tr.59. san. K 10 - 2005. Nguyn vn:
3. (Trung) An Nam truyn, An Nam tp k, An nam k du - An Nam tp k. Tr.1. Nguyn vn: 3. (Hn) Chi Phong tin sinh tp - Q.8 - An Nam quc s thn xng ha vn p lc - Hu. Nguyn vn:

4. (Hn) Triu Tin vng triu thc lc - Tc Tng - Q.23 - Mc ngy t Du mng 5 thng 12 nm th
17 triu vua Tc Tng. Nguyn vn: . Mt s bn dch hin nay dch b pht l bi tc. Cch dch nh vy hon
ton sai lc. B pht , phi pht u c ngha l xa tc.

250
1-2. Tng Trn Th v Trn Th Dung
(cha Cu ng, H Ni); 3-4. Tng cha
Bt Thp, Bc Ninh (nh: TQ); 5. V
chnh s mc Mng bo mu trng, ph khn
iu, ng u on cng s i Vit thi
L Trung Hng trong Vn quc lai triu
(ha phm thi Cn Long. Bo tng C cung
Bc Kinh. nh: H Nh ); 6. Mnh ph An
Nam (Hong Thanh chc cng ).
tai eo kim hon [] n b dng khn ph u, o di, vt di, i
1. (Trung) Hi ngoi k s - Q.1. Tr.12. Nguyn vn:
[]
2. (Trung) An Nam ch lc - C tch - Cu trng i. Nguyn vn:
3. (Hn) Chi Phong tin sinh tp - Q.8 - An Nam quc s thn xng ha vn p lc - Hu. Nguyn vn:
che pha trc, gin hoc cng c
ngi bi tc chuy k tin lm
lng, rng u en [] Mt thuyn
tip n c v quan cng xa tc i
chn t . (1)
Vi mi tc di bung xa, nh
giu qu tc thi L Trung Hng
thng dng mt vung vi ln ph
ln u, tng t cc quan triu
Trn qua m t ca Trn Cng
Trung, hay truy xa hn l li th sc
ca vua L Nhn Tng trong miu
t ca L Tc dng la ph ln
u, git kim bc ln Cu trng
i . Li dng khn ph mang
(2)
m m hng Pht gio ny xut
hin kh nhiu qua tranh tng
thi L Trung Hng, v c minh
chng qua miu t ca s thn
Triu Tin L Toi Quang v Chnh
s i Vit Phng Khc Khoan: S
thn h Phng, tn Khc Khoan,
hiu l Ngh Trai, tui hn by
mi, hnh dong rt l, sn rng xa
tc, o di tay thng, dng c kh
vi en ph ln u nh kiu khn
nh s, cho mt na kh r ra
ng sau qu vai.(3) Hong Thanh
chc cng cng m t: n b
giu sang xa tc, khng ci trm,
2. T in Vit - B - La. Mc t The. Tr.218
3. (Vit) Sn c tp thut - Q.2 - Man lo phong tc. Nguyn vn:
Thnh phc ch tang
4. Tp du k mi v k th v vng quc ng Ngoi (1681). Tr.85
giy l gt, gp nhau i tru cau, gii cc vic thu tha nu nng.(1)
Alexandre de Rhodes cng ghi nhn ph n Vit nhng nm 1625-1645
251
dng the lm khn trm u(2).
Ngoi ra, qua mt s s liu v
tranh nh cho thy khng t nam gii
ngi Vit xa tc, ng thi co mt
vnh tc trn trn thp. Gii thch
ngha ca vic co tc ny, hin c bn
nhm quan im sau:
A. Co tc khi c tang, nn thi k
c tang gi l thi tang tc. Tc gi sch
Sn c tp thut cho bit tc ngi mn
mng Vit Nam cui thi L, vo
ngy thnh phc, cc con u co u,
b cht m cn th co mt na. n khi
ng phc, xem mi quan h thn hay s
m co tc nhiu hay t. Nay t kinh k
cng c ngi theo tc ny, gi l Tang Ngi ng Kinh (H Ni) trong Hi
ngoi ch o thuyt.
tc(3). Jean-Baptiste Tavernier cho bit,
vo nm 1681, vua mi (tc thi t ni ngi, con vua qu c) ct tc, u
i m rm(4) Cha s Marini cho bit, vo khong nhng nm 1646 -
1658, khi c tang, ngi Vit ct tc t lng tn knh(5) Tuy nhin
ghi nhn ca Sn c tp thut, Jean Baptiste Tavernier v cha Marini
(ct hoc co tc khi c tang) li mu thun vi ghi nhn ca Alexandre de
Rhodes (ngy thng co tc, khi c tang th khng co). Alexandre de Rhodes
cho bit v cch tang th c s khc nhau v k d v o mc; cch
thng thng v chung cho mi ngi l tc. Phi nam khng c tang
th tc pha trc ct na vng trn trn trn, khi c tang th tc
di xung ti mt, kh vng. Tri li phi n c tang th ct mt phn
1. (Trung) Hong Thanh chc cng - An Nam quc. Tr.15-17. Nguyn vn:
[]
phc thn quyn mc sau khi ngi cht c nhp lim.
5. Dn theo Nhng l khch trong hnh trnh khm ph Vit Nam. Tr.82
 tc khng cho di ra, kiu tc Sakayaki (kiu tc ny c th i

sut ba nm tang nu l chng qua hnh nh ngi Giao Ch trong Ha Hn

252 253
ngi ga ba th cm tam ti hi v bc tranh chn dung Quc uy cng

v b pht nng nu ti Nguyn Phc Thun (1653 - 1675). TQ ch) []

gi trong thi gian ny, Ngi ng Kinh li ging Trung Hoa
gi l thi tang tc(1), hn ngi Giao Ch, song khng co
tang cha hay m tc vng trn, m bi tc li, tc co
cht, trong thi k , tc vng trn gn y cng nhiu. Rng th
n ng khng co tc cng en nh ngi Giao Ch.(1) Tuy
pha trn v pha trc nhin, theo ghi nhn ca Alexandre
u(2). de Rhodes v hnh v trong Boxer
Ngi ng Kinh (H Ni) trong Vn quc nhn vt
B. Co tc l tp thuyt (1720) v Tng b Hoa di thng thng kho (1708). Codex do ngi Philipines thc hin Ngi ng Kinh trong Vn quc nhn
vt (1645).
tc lu hnh ti vng nm 1590, ngi ng Kinh trong Vn
ng Trong. Theo Terajima Ryan, tc gi Ha Hn tam ti hi: quc nhn vt (1645),
Ngi Giao Ch (ng Trong) n ng th co tc vng huyt Bch Hi r rng t nhng nm
[] ng Kinh tc l kinh ca Giao Ch. H vn l anh em, ti thi 1590 1645 vng ng
con chu giao tranh nn Giao Ch v ng Kinh phn lm hai nc. Ngoi lu hnh tc
Ranh gii hai nc c ngn ni tn gi K Mu (c l ch ni u Mu, co tc ny.
phn chia vng ng Trong ng Ngoi C. Co tc theo tc
thi Trnh Nguyn phn tranh) [...]Ngi ca ngi Thanh. Tc gi
ng Kinh (ng Ngoi) cng ging Nam s t k v Lo song
ngi Giao Ch, song khng co tc th lc, nhng ngi
nh u m li bi tc(3). Nishikawa sng u thi Nguyn
Jyoken, tc gi Hoa Di thng thng cho rng triu nh nh
kho cho bit, vo nhng nm 1695 L phi xin nh Thanh
(Ngi ng Trong) trang phc khc Ngi Hi An nm 1609 trong Chu n thuyn hi quyn. cho co mt na mi tc:
vi ngi ng ngy nay (ngi Mn Thanh Th t ln ngi,
Thanh), nhng li ging kiu trang t nin hiu Thun Tr (ti v 16431661), thng nht thin h, thay
phc thi Minh. Sc mt h hi en. i y phc Trung Quc. Ph lo Trung Quc n ca khuyt, xin lu
Ngi ng Kinh v Giao Ch trong u tc ging nam gii Nht Bn, h li mt nm tc lm vt tch. Nc Nam ta xin co mt na, gi l
Ha Hn tam ti hi.
co mt t tc vng Bch Hi nh khoi gii co(2) (khoi theo T in Vit B -La ngha l nh u). y l

1. Lch s vng quc ng Ngoi. Tr.53 1. (Nht) Tng b Hoa Di thng thng kho Q.3 Giao Ch, ng Kinh. Tr.11 Tr.14. Nguyn vn:
2. T in Vit B - La. Mc t Tang tc. Tr. 211. Bn dch ting Vit dch t radunt (nguyn tc) l ct,
y chng ti sa li thnh t co. ...
3. (Nht) Ha Hn tam ti hi Q.13 D quc nhn vt Giao Ch, ng Kinh. Tr.30. Nguyn vn:
[] 2. (Vit) Nam s t k Chn Tng Thun hong . Nguyn vn :
[]
 quan nim sai lm. Bi t liu cho thy
tc co tc xut hin ti Vit Nam
254
trc khi nh Thanh thnh lp. Bn
cnh , cc sch nh Lch i danh
thn s trng, Nhn vt ch, Cng d
tip k, Danh thn danh nho truyn
k u chp: Khi ngi Thanh vo lm
ch Trung Hoa, sai s mang chiu th
n nc ta, lnh cho quc dn u
phi co tc, b trn ly lm lo, lnh
cho ng Nguyn ng Co n ca
quan nghnh n, ng bn lm bi
Gii ch hu hoc vn ni r t,
ngi Thanh mi thi . (1) Qun tng Hi An trong Chu n
thuyn hi quyn (1609).
Tuy nhin, sau khi ngi Thanh
giao thng vi ngi Vit, qu nhin c khng t ngi Vit co tc
bt chc ngi Thanh, khin triu nh nh L phi nhiu ln ra lnh:
Thng nhn phng Bc qua li nc ta, quc dn c nhiu k bt
chc h, bn nghim sc cho ngi phng Bc nhp tch vo nc ta,
t ngn ng n y phc, nht nht phi noi theo quc tc ; Nm 1696,
Ph Liu li vng mnh truyn rng: phm cc x dn gip a gii
ngoi quc, t ngn ng n n mc v c x u nn tun theo dng
v l li v phong tc nc ta, nu co trc u th cng nn bt li mt
mng tc, ch khng c cn by bt chc ting ni v qun o ca
ngi ngoi quc. K no vi phm th cng cho php quan trn ph iu
tra trng tr, nm 1727 li truyn rng con trai trong nc ta, h ai co
tc cng nn theo phong tc nc nh, li ci chm t ra phn bit.
K no vi phm th cho php quan lu th hoc quan lnh pht ngay
10 trng.(3)
D. Co tc l mt trong nhng cch
nh du nhm phn bit binh lnh vi
255
dn thng. Ghi nhn ca An Nam k du
(Thanh, 1688) cho bit: Con trai n tui
trng thnh, ph hp vi ngch quy nh
phi bin vo qun ng th quan cho co
my tc tc trn trn phn bit vi dn(1).
Ghi chp trn hon ton khp vi hnh v
lnh Giao Ch trong Boxer Codex vi nin i
1590 (Philipines).
Vi nhng chng c hin c, ch c
nhm quan im th t cho rng vic co
Binh lnh Giao Ch trong Boxer mt phn tc c thc hin trong qun
Codex (1590).
i, nhm phn bit qun lnh vi dn
thng, khng tn ti mu thun. Trong cc quan im cn li, chng
ti nghing v quan im cho rng, mt b phn ngi Vit co tc khi
c tang, do thi k c tang c gi l thi tang tc.
Ngoi ra cn lu thm rng, trong khi triu thn nh L l L
Qunh th cht khng chu co tc th Quc Uy cng Nguyn Phc
(2)
Thun ng Trong li co tc tng t kiu kayasaki ca ngi
Nht. Triu thn L Qunh sau khi b Phc Khang An d co tc

1. (Vit) Cng d tip k Danh thn - Nguyn ng Co k. Nguyn vn:

2. (Vit) Vit s - Q.3 Huyn Tng, Gia Tng. Tr. 41. Nguyn vn: Ngi Hi An (Chu n thuyn hi quyn).

Sch Cng mc thi Nguyn cng c ghi chp tng t, song c mt vi ch xut nhp (

)
3. (Vit) Lch triu tp k. Tr. 245, 243. 1. (Trung) An Nam k du. Nguyn vn:
 tc gin tr li: Bn ta u c th cht, ch
tc khng th co, da c th lt, ch y phc
256
khng th thay! (1)
n nm Gia Long th 3
(nm 1804), L Qunh c th v nc, sau
thng xa tc, mc o cu, du ngon
cha i ng, Hi Dng. Tc gi Vn
nang tiu s ca ngi, mi my nm tri
Trung Quc mnh mng, xa tc r o di
duy ch c mt mnh ng m thi(2). iu
chng t, so vi ng Ngoi, tc co tc
c n nhn v lu hnh rng ri hn
knh(1). Cha Marini ng Ngoi vo giai on 1646 - 1658 cho bit:
H bung xa tc xung vai th hin phm gi v s knh trng.
257
Khi xut hin trc mt nh vua hoc ngi c cao vng trng, nu
ang buc tc th h phi nhanh chng th tc ra. Nu khng, h s b
quan ct tc(2). Thanh triu vn hin thng kho cng ghi nhn: Yt
kin bc tn qu th qu gi ly ba ly. Ngu nhin gp t bung nn
xa tc, khng lm nh vy l bt knh.(3)
Chn dung Quc Uy cng
Nguyn Phc Thun.

vng ng Trong, trc khi din ra cuc ci

cch v u tc trang phc thi cha Nguyn Phc Khot.
Bn cnh , vi ring kiu tc ca ph n, Phm nh H cn
cho bit: Ph n nc ta (cui L u Nguyn) ch dng khn l giu tc,
gp bc tn trng th xa tc t lng tn knh(3). Da vo ghi nhn
ca Phm nh H, i chiu vi pho tng th n cha Du (Bc
Ninh), c th thy vo cui thi L, tc dng la bc tc vn quanh
u nh hnh v ph
bin trong mt b phn
ph n Vit. Ring vic
xa tc t lng tn
knh, Jerome Richard
nm 1778 cng ghi nhn:
Nam gii v ph n
thng bi tc cao v gn
vo mt ci n pha Trang phc ca v cng thi L Trung Hng v thi Nguyn.
sau u. Nhng khi h
xut hin trc b trn,
Tng th n cha Du (Bc Ninh). h li xo tc t tn

1. (Vit) Hong L nht thng ch thp tam hi. Nguyn vn:

Mc thng 4 nm 1789 trong Cng mc cng c ghi chp tng t.
2. (Vit) Vn nang tiu s - Trng phi hu. Nguyn vn:
[] 1. Ngun t liu th tch phng Ty vi tin trnh lch s Thng Long H Ni. Tr.216
2. Dn theo Nhng l khch trong hnh trnh khm ph Vit Nam. Tr.63
3. (Vit) V trung ty bt Quyn thng Quan l. Nguyn vn: 3. (Trung) Thanh triu vn hin thng kho - Q.296 - T du t. Tr. 7450. Nguyn vn:

 khng nh vy. Hn ba mi nm, ngi ta
Ph kho
u quen, qun c tc c.(1)
258 259
CI CCH Y PHC NG TRONG NM 1744 - i Vit s k tc bin chp: Li nhn
S RA I V QU TRNH PH CP CA O DI NM THN c ngi truyn c cu sm rng tm i
quay v trung , cha bn i phong tc, i
y phc, h lnh cho quan dn hai x Thun
K t nm 1545, sau khi xin vo Qung u n mc theo th ch nh Minh,
trn th vng Thun Ha, Nguyn c nc cng i mi. Duy nin hiu vn
Hong cng con chu ng khng ngng theo Cnh Hng, cha t nin hiu ring.(2)
m mang b ci, pht trin ng Trong, Trnh Hoi c cho bit: Nm Mu
tng bc c lp vi chnh quyn ng Ng, Th Tng Hiu V Hong nguyn
Ngoi ca cha Trnh. n i th 8, nin, ci nh sc phc, quan phc ca vn
Ghi chp v ci cch y phc thi
Hiu Quc cng Nguyn Phc Khot t
cha Nguyn Phc Khot trong
v b quan tham chc cc i Hn ng
xng vng, thc thi cc sc lnh thay sch Gia nh thnh thng ch n ch i Minh v kiu dng ca ch
(Tr.369) ca Trnh Hoi c.
i triu nghi phm phc trong cung mi (ch nh Thanh) nh trang phc ca cc
nh v qun o trong dn gian, nhm phm quan da theo hi in ban hnh ngy nay, vn cht y.
xa b thi tc h lu ca ng Ngoi, Trang phc nh ca dng trong dn gian i nh th ch i
bin ng Trong tr thnh mt nc c Minh, xa ht thi tc h lu ca Bc H, tr thnh mt nc o m
vn hin o m rc r. S kin ci cch vn hin!(3)
trang phc thi V vng l mt cuc Theo Bi Dng Lch, Cha Nguyn nhiu i c tha hng
ci cch quan trng, c nh hng su thi bnh, n i Hiu V vng thi cng thnh, dng y phc Bc
rng ti trang phc cng nh phong tc triu, li hc c kiu cch ca ma ca Bc triu na.(4)
Kim n truyn quc ca nh Nguyn.
ca ngi Vit ng Trong cng nh i Vit quc Nguyn cha vnh trn i Nam thc lc chp: Cha cho rng li sm c ni tm i tr li
ngi Vit triu Nguyn v sau. chi bo (Kim ngc bo t).
trung , bn i y phc, thay phong tc, cng dn i mi; chm chc
L Qu n cho bit: Nm th 5 nin hiu Cnh Hng (1744), Hiu ch cc i, nh Triu phc vn v, vn t qun b n chim hu,
Quc cng nhn li sm truyn ca ngi Ngh An rng tm i quay v hun o; v t chng dinh n cai i, m sc vng bc, o dng Mng
trung , lin ngh t thi oan Quc cng n mnh va ng tm bo hoc gm on theo cp bc. Th l vn vt mt phen i mi. (5)
i, bn xng vng, sai ly th ch o m trong sch Tam ti hi lm
m thc, lnh cho cc quan v t chng dinh n cai i, quan vn t
1. (Vit) Ph bin tp lc. Nguyn vn:
qun b n chim hu, hun o u tun theo kiu dng mu sc quy
nh, o u dng on mu, ngi sang dng Mng bo c thu hoa

vn sng nc, m trang sc bng vng bc. Li lnh cho trai gi hai
x (Thun Ha, Qung Nam) i dng qun o Bc quc t s thay i. 2. (Vit) i Vit s k tc bin. Tr.201.
3. (Vit) Gia nh thnh thng ch. Tr.369. Nguyn vn:
n ph n u mc o ngn hp tay ging o nam gii th Bc quc
,
4. (Vit) L qu dt s. Tr.27.
5. (Vit) i Nam thc lc. Tp I. Tr.153.
 Gio s Jean Koffler, ngi Tip ng Trong t nm 1740 n nm ch ca cc triu i Hn, ng,
1755, trong Lch s x ng Trong cho bit: Cha bt b li qun o th Tng, Minh, Thanh, c bit l Tam
260 261
b ca ngi ng Ngoi m chm chc theo li qun o ca ngi ti hi ca Vng K thi Minh.
Tu.(1) Nm 1744 cng l thi im nh du
c bit, D s lc bin s xut hin ca qun chn o cht,
i Vit quc Nguyn triu thc b trang phc ban u p dng ti
lc ghi nhn: Cha cho rng hai vng Thun Ha, Qung Nam, v
li sm c c ni tm i quay sau c ph bin rng ri trong ton
li trung , tnh t thi Thi quc, tng bc tr thnh quc phc
T n nay va ng con s y, ca triu Nguyn. Nh vy, li tng
bn thay y phc, i phong tc, truyn Chnh Lc Kh Hu (o Duy T)
cng dn i mi, bt u h trong khi by mu nh k chng c
lnh cho nam n s th trong vi h Trnh, khuyn cha Hy Tng
nc, u mc o nhu bo, mc bt dn thay i tp tc cho khc hn
Ti cung nh, trong khi cc quan nh
qun, vn khn, tc gi qun L xa tc, i t vo chu vua (phn dn Bc, nh b nn thng, i nn
chn o cht bt u t y.
bit vi ngi Minh) th t ci cch nm
chp, b qun mu en mc qun mu
Ph n thi Nguyn nm 1918 mc o nm thn. 1744 v sau, quan nh Nguyn u bi
Trang phc nh ca dng (nh: Albert Kahn). tc, tht Vng cn, i hia theo quy ch nu, n b b o bn thn by ym
ca nh Minh (phn bit vi quan nh
hi ging th ch Minh Thanh, L v ngi Thanh). 1. Ngi Giao Ch
m mc o nm thn gi khuy, b tc
thay i ht thi c h lu ca Bc H, thay i quan phc tham kho trong Tam ti hi (Th k XV); 2. bao m bi t, b vy mc qun(1),
Ngi dn Vit trong Trc Lm i s
ch ca cc triu i Trung Quc, ch ra phm phc Thng triu, xut sn (Th k XIV); 3. Lnh cm m Phan Khoang ghi li trong Vit s:
i triu, ly lm m thc, ban hnh trong nc, vn cht v, tr nghi trng (Th k XVIII); 4. Ngi x ng Trong 1558-1777 nhm ln
ng Ngoi trong Boxer Codex (Th
thnh nc o m vn vt vy!(2) k XVI); 5. Lnh ng Trong (Th k thi im din ra cuc ci cch y phc
Tng hp cc ghi chp XIX); 6. Lnh i thi Nguyn trong trng i ny.
Hong phi sc phc t thin t ch
trn c th thy, ci cch tn tht (Th k XIX); 7. nh bng Tuy nhin, nu ch trong mt
trong K thut ca ngi An Nam (Th thi gian ngn ngi dn Thun Ha,
nm 1744 l mt cuc ci k XX); 8. Quan nh L vo chu vua
cch ln v y phc cung v bi Samuel Baron (Th k XVII). Qung Nam u mc quen qun c
nh v dn gian din ra trn tc c, th ph n Bc H ni chung,
ton ci ng Trong. Ngun tng lp dn ngho ni ring, phi mt rt nhiu thi gian mi c
tham kho chnh t th quen c vi dng trang phc mi ny. Thm ch sau khi mc
nh y phc l cc sch Hi o di nm thn, n b Bc K theo thi quen mc o t thn, giao
Nh vn L Tn, Trung Quc mc o trng qui. in ghi chp in chng lnh trc y, thng khng ci khuy c o, l c ym mc lt
trong. Chnh s bo th vi trang phc c cu l nguyn nhn chnh
dn n nhng sc lnh cm on y phc gt gao di triu vua Minh
1. Dn theo o Duy Anh. Vit Nam vn ha s cng. Quan hi tng th. 1938. Tr.121.
2. (Vit) D s lc bin i Vit quc Nguyn triu thc lc - Q.8. Tr.3. Nguyn vn: Mng, m cu ca dao Thng Tm c chiu vua ra/ Cm qun khng


1. Vit s: X ng Trong 1558-1777. Tr.615.
 Quc s di bin ghi
nhn cc sc lnh thng
262 263
nht y phc trong ton
quc ln lt c triu
nh Minh Mng ban ra
vo cc nm 1828, 1829,
1830, 1832, 1837, 1842.
Trong , thng 5 nm
Ngi Vit thi L Trung Hng trong Hong Thanh chc cng , Hi ngoi ch o thuyt
v Boxer Codex. 1830, Bc thnh Ph tng
trn Phan Vn Thy li
y ngi ta hi hng l mt trong nhng minh chng c lu li
Ch Khch mc o di (K thut ca ngi An Nam); nu r iu cm v qun
trong k c dn gian. Ngoi ra, theo ghi nhn ca Hi in, i Nam n ng v n b Nam k nm 1859 (Vit Nam qua tranh
khc Php). o. Cm n ng i m
thc lc, Quc s di bin, D s lc bin i Vit quc Nguyn triu
di, m Bnh Thin, m
thc lc, ni dung ca cc lnh cm y phc thi Minh Mng bao gm
Yn V, o trng lnh (tc giao lnh) thng tay v ng kh quanh eo
lnh cm o t thn, o giao lnh, kh, vi tht lng v cc dng khn,
i. n b khng c dng vi, la ngn qun u, khng c
m Tin phc ca ngi thi L Trung Hng nh m M V, m Bnh
dng tht lng to, nh v mc qun khng y.(1) Thng 10 nm 1832
nh, khn vung, khn bc tc v.v. c bit, o t thn, vy p v
triu nh li ban lnh cm qun o Bc thnh: Ph n khng c
kh b vua Minh Mng coi l cc dng trang phc xu x, h lu, cn
i khn vung v tht lng. Ai tri lnh eo gng mt thng.(2) Thng
phi ci cch trit . Song, sau thi Minh Mng, chng ta khng thy
1 nm 1842, triu nh tip tc ra lnh cm o qun Bc H. Quan tnh
c cc chnh sch cm on y phc thm na. y chnh l nguyn
H Ninh cho rng: xa gi ra Bc, m Bc K qun o cha c nht t,
nhn khin cc dng khn kh, vy p vn tip tc c s dng cho
bn nhc li lnh nghim cm trc, bt nhn dn Bc K u theo th
n u th k XX.
ch Nam K m may mc.(3)
i Nam thc lc ghi li vua Gia Long bn vi cc quan v phong
D s lc bin i
tc vo thng 12 nm 1802 cho bit: Dn Bc H kiu qun o cng
Vit quc Nguyn triu
khng p. Phi nn mt phen sa nh mi c th ng nht phong tc.
thc lc cn cho bit mt
Nhng sa i phong tc cng phi dn dn.(1)
trong nhng sc lnh ca
Hi in ghi li d ca vua Minh Mng nm 1837 cho bit: Trc
vua Minh Mng l cm
y t sng Gianh tr ra ngoi, y phc vn noi theo thi tc h lu, nay
n ng ng kh, n
c bit ch d, lnh phi thay i theo cch n mc t Qung Bnh tr
b khng c mc vy
vo trong ng nht phong tc [] T Qung Bnh tr vo Nam, qun
kim o t thn; nht
o m mo nht nht noi theo ch Hn Minh, trang phc t chnh, so
vi tc c ca ngi min Bc, n ng ng kh, n b mc o giao B gi tp n tru. (nh: Albert Kahn).

lnh, di mc thng trn, p xu chng phi r rng d thy sao?(2)

1. (Vit) i Nam thc lc - Tp 1. Tr.539.
2. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.64. Nguyn vn:
[]
1. (Vit) Quc s di bin - Tp trung. Tr.87a. Nguyn vn:
2. (Vit) Quc s di bin - Tp trung. Tr.104b. Nguyn vn:
3. (Vit) Quc s di bin - Tp h. Tr.17a. Nguyn vn:
 lot u dng qun chn v o nm thn theo lnh ca Hiu V ng tay o rt di v rng, ph kn c hai bn tay.(1) ng thi
Hong nm xa Thun Ha.(1) cng chnh l tin thn ca chic o di c ng ci khuy hp tay,
264 265
Bn cnh cc cm lnh y phc c cu ca ngi min Bc, nh c coi nh quc phc ca Vit Nam vo thi Nguyn. Ngoi ra, L
Nguyn cn ban b sc lnh thng nht Qu n cho bit khi p dng vo ng Trong, a s nam n u mc
trang phc nam n trong ton quc, yu o hp tay. Song thc t cho thy, trc th k XX, o di hp tay phn
cu ngi Bc H phi nht lot s dng ln lu hnh trong dn gian, quan li v qu tc c nhiu ngi vn
li trang phc chun mc ca ngi min chung mc o thng tay.
trong: qun chn, o cht. Qua mt s truyn Nh vy, dng o c ng ci khuy kt hp vi qun hai ng l
Nm nh Quan m Th Knh: Qun chn o dng trang phc c ph bin ti vng ng Trong Vit Nam t nm
cht du dng/ Gi hnh nam t ai tng cn 1744. Ch sau khi nh Nguyn thng nht t nc, c bit di triu
nguyn (2), hay truyn N t ti: Qun chn vua Minh Mng, b trang phc ny mi tng bc thay th cc dng
o cht ci khuy/ Tr hnh lm ng nam nhi, trang phc c cu ca ng Ngoi, tr thnh trang phc chung cho n
hc hnh , c th thy qun chn o cht
(3)
ng v n b, thng c gi vi ci tn ngn gn l o di.
khi mi bt u p dng ch c nam gii tun
Chn dung Phan Thanh Gin.
th. V sau, do nhng sc lnh v y phc
ngy mt gt gao, ph n Bc H mi dn dn thun theo.
Qun chn ch loi qun c hai ng chn phn bit vi loi qun
khng y, chic vy c cu ca ph n Vit trc kia; o cht cn
c gi l o nm thn, ch loi o c
may bng nm kh vi (vt trc hai kh, vt
sau hai kh, thn bn phi di ra mt kh ngn,
tng cng nm kh, gi l nm thn), phn bit
vi cc dng o c may bng bn kh
vi nh o t thn, o giao lnh. y chnh
l dng o ph bin ng Trong qua m
o nm thn sa kp tin phc ca Hong thi t
t ca Chapman nm 1778: n ng v v Cng cha triu Nguyn (Bu vt triu Nguyn).
ph n Nam H u mc nhng b
c thit k theo cch ging nhau. y l
nhng b khim tn nht m ti tng
c thy, chng ch gm mt o di th
lng, c nh ci cc, bt cho trn ngc, Tng c H ng Hong Trng
trng khng khc g mt chic o di ng, Phu. (nh: Albert Kahn).

1. (Vit) D s lc bin i Vit quc Nguyn triu thc lc - Q.11. Tr.75. Nguyn vn:

2. Quc vn trch dim. Tr.172.
3. Vit Nam thi vn hp tuyn. Tr.365. 1. Relation dun voyage en Cochin-Chine en 1778. Tr.61.
 267

Chng IV. TRANG PHC THI ty sn

Hn ba chc nm, sau ci cch l nghi phm phc din ra trn ton
ci ng Trong, anh em Ty Sn khi ngha. Qua nhng ghi chp m t
cc dng trang phc, m mo ca vua quan Ty Sn, t vic cht khn
vo ngy thng ti vic s dng cc loi m Xung Thin, Sa, Phc
u, Vn Cng, cc dng Long bo, Mng bo, B phc v.v. vo cc ngy
triu h, c th bc u nhn nh, phm phc triu Ty Sn chu
nh hng t ci cch ca cha Nguyn Phc Khot, c nhiu nt tng
ng vi quy ch o m ca triu Nguyn Gia Long v sau.
I. Trang phc cung nh
i vi trang phc ca triu
nh Nguyn Nhc ( ngi t nm
1778 n nm 1793), qua miu t
ca Chapman, c th thy trong
nhng bui thit triu, Thi c
Nguyn Nhc i m Xung
Thin nh trang sc bng vng
v bo thch, mc Long bo mu
vng sm; b quan trong triu
i nhng chic m c trang
Tng vua Quang Trung cha Bc (H Ni) v
sc bng vng bc, mc Mng hai v triu thn phi hng u i m Xung
bo, eo ai lng. Chapman cho Thin, B phc K Ln, theo m tp to tng Tk
XVIII. (nh: TQ).
bit: Nh vua mc mt chic o
di bng la vng m, thu nhng con rng v nhng k hiu bng ch
vng. ng i mt chic m cht, pha sau nh ln, pha trc trang tr
nhng chu bu - ni bt ln trn nhng chu bu l mt vin
ln l lng trn khng, cch phn pha trc m ny 135 mm v c gi
 vng bng mt si dy vng xuyn qua. Mi ln u ca nh vua c ng thu bn rng , cn cho theo phc
l mi ln vin ny rung rung v sng rc ln. Phn ln cc v quan sc ca A Ca, thng Mng bo vng
268 269
u mc o di la c mu sc khc nhau, thu hnh nhng con rng, m kim, t r s bit i(1), nhng
h i c trang tr bng nhng bng hoa bng vng hoc m vng. H vua quan nh Thanh u khng
eo ai lng, mt vi ngi mc o di rng hn mu hng iu c khuy ng dng thc Mng bo Nguyn
mc bng vng v c trang tr m no hng nh vo cng th kim Quang Bnh gi sang l dng o
loi. B ngoi ca h nom thc s p mt v d cn thiu rt nhiu v uy c trn theo quy ch Hn(2). Tuy
nghi, lng ly nh cc hong thn phng ng khc, khung cnh vn nhin, xut pht t tnh cm c
khin ta c cm gic mt v vua quyn lc c qun thn bao quanh bit dnh cho Quang Trung, Cn
ang hin din. Trang phc ca binh lnh th mi hai lnh gc, mc Long khng nhng khng khin
d mu xanh l, i mt th nh l m ct (casque: m bo him) bc giy M Ng lng Kim quan ca Triu Tin. (Bo trch m cn t nh rng: Trm
sn c trang tr bng nhng bng hoa v nhng ha tit bng st trng tng C cung Quc lp Seoul). bit tc nc y xa nay theo quy
sm en, ging trn chui kim v bao kim ca h. (1)
ch Hn, y phc u tc u khng
i vi trang phc ca vua Quang th thay i c Qua Cn Long bt tun vn th khnh in , c
(3)

Trung Nguyn Hu ( ngi t nm 1788
n nm 1792), Thanh thc lc cho bit,
loi ai tht quc vng nc y dng
trong nc l ai nn , nay mun gia
ban ai nn vng t r s bit i ,
ng thi cho bit Nguyn Quang Bnh
(ch ngi ng gi vua Quang Trung sang nh Thanh)
v nc, khi qua Qung ng, tng ni
thch Mng bo ni a v v hoa m,
bnh sinh cha tng thy bao gi, lin
mua my tm kinh , li t mua
Cn Long bt tun vn th khnh in
. (China: The Three Emperors 1662 H Bc, Hn Khu em v. Nay quc
- 1795).
vng y li gi dng thc sang, xin dt
Mng bo giao long, lm trang phc triu hi(3) Tng loi Mng bo
Quang Trung yu thch l dng o kiu Mn, Cn Long rt mng,
ni nu quc vng ny qu c , trm t c bit gia n, ban cho L
phc. Khng nhng ban cho m nh bo thch mu , o M qui
1. Relation dun voyage en Cochin-Chine en 1778. Tr.30 v 27.
2. (Trung) Thanh thc lc - Cao Tng thc lc - Q.1349. Tr. 32 - 34. Nguyn vn:
3. (Trung) Thanh thc lc - Cao Tng thc lc - Q.1349. Tr. 32 - 34. Nguyn vn:
th thy hnh tng vua Quang Trung gi xut hin trong tranh i m
Xung Thin nh trang sc bng vng trn m, mc Long bo mu
thu hoa vn rng my, sng nc theo dng thc bo phc thnh hnh
ti Trung Quc v Vit Nam vo th k XVII, XVIII.
(2)
Tn mt gp g s thn Ty Sn v v vua Quang Trung c ng
th, cc s thn Triu Tin c nhng miu t nh sau:
Seo Ho Su (T Ho Tu) cho bit: Ban triu h in Thi Ha v
ban t l n Tch Nguyt mi thy ci gi l Bn phc. (Bn phc)
th quc vng u cht Vng cn, i Tht Lng Kim quan, mnh mc
Long bo mu , tht ai bch ngc. Tng thn (b ti i theo - TQ ch)
cng cht Vng cn, i m Ng Lng quan mu en, mc Mng bo, v
mu sc c k mc mu xanh, c k mc mu ta, tht ai vng, hoa vn
trn o bo vn vn qui l(4).
Yu Deok Gong (Liu c Cung) ghi nhn: Vua ti Quang Bnh
1. (Trung) Thanh thc lc - Cao Tng thc lc - Q.1349. Tr. 32 - 34. Nguyn vn:
2. (Trung) Thanh thc lc - Cao Tng thc lc - Q.1349. Tr. 32 - 34. Nguyn vn:
3. (Trung) Thanh thc lc - Cao Tng thc lc - Q.1349. Tr. 32 - 34. Nguyn vn:
4. (Hn) Yn hnh k. Nguyn vn:
 u mc o m Mn Chu [...] Tng chng ti trnh by ti phn kho v Triu phc ca b quan nh L.
thn l Thng th b Li Phan Huy ch Lng quan phi vi Long bo, Mng bo l s kt hp c o, c l ch
270 271
v Thng th b Cng Ho Trch hu xut hin triu nh Ty Sn. y c th chnh l quy ch phm phc
V Huy Tn hai ngi, dng ngi thp mi theo ghi nhn ca t Chiu ln ngi ca vua Quang Trung o m
b, mt mi kh sm, rng tha m en. vo chu nht nht tun theo quy ch mi.
Nhng ngi i theo cn li cng u nh Bn cnh , cc dng
th. Coi vy th Quang Bnh l ngi cao o m ca vua quan Ty Sn
ln ca nc y vy [...] Vua nc y ngu c cp trong ghi chp
nhin hi s thn nc ta rng cch Nht ca s thn Triu Tin nh
Bn xa hay gn. S thn p li. Vua nc Phc u, Sa, Vn Cng,
y nh ni tip th bn Phan Huy ch lic Mng bo, Long bo, Vng
mt ngn cm, tht ng s vy [...] Bn cn v.v. u l nhng dng
Phan Huy ch mc o di nm thn Phan Huy ch mc o m Mn Chu cng phc sc c s dng trong
gi khuy. (Chinh ph ngm b kho).
rt bit xu h. Bo rng v nc th khng triu nh nh Nguyn. iu
nh vy, ngy mi ba, yn l ti Thi Ha in, s dng nghi l c ca chng t, quy ch phm
nc ti vo triu tham. n ngy mi ba li c v i T M nm m phc ca triu Ty Sn c
s qun mi vo chu, ng trn Phan Huy ch. Ba ngi bng chc thay t nh trn c s quy ch o
i cch n mc trc y. M Phc u, ai vng, o bo hoc hoc mo triu cha Nguyn Phc
bic, c hoa vn rng, mng; ring hai l phc hu sau o qu cao, khi Khot, sau ci cch nm
khu u th nh ln hai vai, ta nh hai chic sng. Vng cn tt bng 1744. V nh vic s dng
t, kt li qu tha, li khng tht cht . (1)
Vng cn, trong khi cc quan
Kim Jeong Jong (Kim Chnh Trung) m t: Quan An Nam bi tc triu L Trung Hng u xa
cao dng Vng cn, bo phc vo chu v ai sng rt ging vi nc ta, tc, th sau ci cch nm
v li cn i m gi l m Vn Cng. (2)
1744, quan li ng Trong
Theo m t ca s thn Triu Tin Seo Hao Su (T Ho Tu), th vo bi tc, tht Vng cn theo Cn Long bt tun vn th khnh in . An Nam
quc vng Nguyn Quang Bnh [] n Kinh cung
cc bui triu h, t l, vua Quang Trung gi cn i Tht Lng quan quy ch ca nh Minh. M chc vn th, y trng ngng (China: The Three
kt hp vi Long bo mu ; cc quan ty tng i Ng Lng quan kt Vn Cng th tip tc c p Emperors 1662 - 1795).

hp vi Mng bo. Lng quan l loi m Triu phc (kt hp vi o mu dng lm m Thng phc
) kim T phc (kt hp vi o mu en hoc xanh) theo quy ch Tng Minh, ca quan vn nht, nh, tam phm triu Nguyn. Ngoi ra, hnh tng
cc quan Ty Sn th hin trong Cn Long bt tun vn th khnh in
1. (Hn) Loan dng lc - Q.1. Nguyn vn: [] v Nguyn Hu khin it Nguyn Quang Hin nhp cn t yn chi
u mc B phc, i m Sa, tng t cc quan Triu Tin. Ring v
[]
[] quan dn u s on, Nguyn Quang Hin, mc B phc mu ta, i


m Xung Thin, trc trn m nh qu cu . Theo quy ch triu L
Nguyn, ch c vua cha mi c i m Xung Thin. Nh vy c th
2. (Hn) Yn hnh lc tuyn tp - Thng sch. Tr.573. Dn theo S hc nguyt san. K 10 - 2005. Nguyn
vn: ci cch triu phc ca triu nh Ty Sn cn bao gm vic p dng m
 Xung Thin i vi mt s v H khng ch tri qua mt cuc bin
vng cng i thn. cch m cn c rt bt i rt nhiu
272 273
V qun trang ca triu [] Qun o ca gii n khng c g l
Ty Sn Nguyn Hu, Bi hp dn. Nhn chung mt chic o vi
Dng Lch cho bit Ty bng di lng thng, mu nu hoc
Sn cho qun mc o mu, xanh, bung r xung tn gia bp i,
phn nhiu l mu ta, mt chic qun en bng vi th dy,
trn nh nn, m nh lng may rt rng, l y phc thng thng
chin , li thng mc o ca h. H hon ton khng dng bt
Nguyn Hu khin it Nguyn Quang Hin nhp cn
gm mu ; Minh s
(1)
tt v i giy, nhng tng lp trn i
t yn chi (Cc b).
miu t Nguyn Hu Vn mt loi dp hoc giy vi rng. V L
Hu mc o ngn gip (o gip bc), u i mo thu .(2) Kt hp phc mc trong nhng dp c bit, mt
vi ghi chp ca s thn Triu Tin v bc v vua Quang Trung gi mc qu b thng mang mt lc ba bn
Long bo mu , chng ti ng tnh vi quan im ca T Ch i Vin quan cp thp vnh Nng
chic o mu sc, di ngn khc nhau,
Trng, khi ng cho rng trong phong tro Ty Sn c c mt h thng (Mt chuyn du hnh n x Nam H). chic ngn nht l ni bt hn c [] Y
t chc mang tnh tn gio. Nguyn Nhc c loan tin c gm thing, phc ca ngi n ng t phn bit vi
c xng tng l Thng s; Nguyn L cng mang danh i Php s y phc n gii, nu c l mt chic o khoc v i ng qun di. Mt
ton ng Trong, vy nn quan qun Ty Sn mang mu thn thnh s ngi cht khn qun u, c hnh dng ging nh chic khn xp
ln l c, ln sc m o . (3)
ca ngi Hi gio. Mt s khc i nn, m c hnh dng khc nhau
Tm li, quy ch o m phm phc ca triu Ty Sn v c bn c v lm bng nhng cht liu khc nhau.(1)
nhiu nt tng ng vi quy ch o m triu Nguyn. Ring s kt hp Vo ngy thng,
gia Lng quan vi Long bo, Mng bo, m Xung Thin vi B phc l qun dn Ty Sn cng
nhng bin cch c o, ch xut hin triu nh Quang Trung. mc o cht ci khuy,
II. Trang phc dn gian vn khn cao trn u
Sau ci cch y phc ca cha Nguyn Phc Khot, qun chn theo tc ca ngi ng
o cht dn tr thnh dng trang phc truyn thng ca ton ng Trong. Theo m t ca
Trong, bt k l vng t ca dng di cha Nguyn hay vng t ca Chapman nm 1778 th
anh em Ty Sn. Nh chng ti cp, Chapman m t trang phc Nguyn Nhc sau khi ci
dn gian ng Trong di s cai tr ca Nguyn Nhc nm 1778 cho b qun o thit triu th
bit, n ng v ph n Nam H u mc cng mt loi o c nh mc o la ngn n Ngi Vit ng Trong (Mt chuyn du hnh n x
ci cc bt cho trn ngc. Cn John Barrow miu t trang phc vng gin vi nhng chic cc Nam H).

Gia nh v Nam b nm 1792 cho bit: Y phc ca ngi dn Nam kim cng, qun quanh u mt mnh la nh mt chic khn.(2)
Nguyn Hu khi ra Bc xin ci cng cha Ngc Hn, cu thn nh L

1. (Vit) L qu dt s. Tr.77.
2. Dn theo Nhng khm ph v hong Quang Trung. Tr.181. 1. Mt chuyn du hnh n x Nam H (1792-1793). Tr.76 v Tr.83.
3. Lch s ni chin Vit Nam t 1771 n 1802. Tr.474. 2. Relation dun voyage en Cochin-Chine en 1778. Tr.32.
 Trn Danh n vn cm ght qun Ty Sn m t Quang Trung i
chic khn Trng Gic cht cao trn u. Trng Gic l th lnh cuc
274 khi ngha Hong Cn thi Hn, cn gi l gic khn vng. Vy nn
chng ti cho rng loi khn Quang Trung Nguyn Hu vn trn u
ng thi l khn mu vng(1), c qun ri, cht cao trn u. Vi
bn tnh khoan ha, gn gi vi dn chng, Quang Trung Nguyn Hu
khi ln ngi ti Thng Long tn trng phong tc ca nhn dn hai
min Nam Bc, cho php y phc dn gian Nam H, Bc H u c
theo phong tc ca mi min, ch c o m vo chu ca b quan th
nht nht tun theo ch mi.(2)
Tuy nhin, cng cn phi ni rng,
trong cch nhn kht khe ca khng t s
phu nh L ng thi, trang phc ca
ngi Nam H ni chung, ca qun Ty
Sn ni ring b coi l loi trang phc
khc thng, thm ch l s ph b
truyn thng o m c t ngn i ca
i Vit. Nm 1786, qun Ty Sn tin
ra Bc, danh s nh L l Bi Dng Lch
(1757-1828) sau khi vo thnh Thng
Long trng thy qun Ty Sn lin cm
khi: Trong ngoi thnh khi nghe v
thy qun Ty Sn u kinh hi. H
ni nng, n mc hon ton d l []
Lnh ng Trong (Mt chuyn du hnh
o m ngn xa thnh ra ct bi.(3) n x Nam H).
Ng Th o (1732-1802) vn mt lng
trung thnh vi nh L, bt hp tc vi Ty Sn, t than rng: Sng
chng gp thi, cht chng xong/ Nh cc tht tha gia t tri tht
ng gin/ Nhn cnh non sng tng gt nc mt [...] Trng o m li
xt xa Trng Lng nh Hn.(4)

1. (Vit) Tn ng di co ph tp lc - Ty Sn hnh. A.2157. Nguyn vn: []

2. (Vit) Hn cc anh hoa - Tc v chiu. VHc.00893. Nguyn vn:

3. (Vit) L qu dt s. Tr.70. Nguyn vn: [].
4. (Vit) Tuyn tp Ng gia vn phi. Tp 1. Tr.500. Nguyn vn:
[]
 275

Chng V. TRANG PHC THI NGUYN

Vai tr ca nh nc v h
t tng chnh tr lun c nhng
tc ng trc tip, mang tnh
chi phi ti ton b i sng
vn ha, x hi. Vn ng trong
cc hnh thi x hi khc nhau,
thc th vn ha lun c s k
tha v bin d. Triu Nguyn,
triu i phong kin qun ch
cui cng trong lch s Vit Cu nh t trc sn Th miu trong Hong
thnh Hu. (nh: TQ)
Nam, nh du s thay i to
ln v mt nhn thc ca ngi Vit sau khi tip xc vn ha Php. Song
trc khi vn ha, t tng Php c dp gy nh hng mnh m ln
i sng ca ngi Vit, di s tr v ca cc v vua Gia Long, Minh
Mng, Thiu Tr, T c, Vit Nam vn l quc gia Nho gio kin quyt
gn gi truyn thng n tn cng. Lc ny do vn ha ng Ty xung
t, bn thn nh Thanh li c ngun gc Mn, cho nn nh Nguyn
t nhn l triu i k tha tnh chnh thng ca vn minh Trung Hoa.
Bi vy nh nh s hc Nht Bn, Yamamoto Tatsuro nhn xt: Ngi
Vit Nam vn ht sc t tin cho rng h lu gi c trn vn truyn
thng c ca Trung Quc, ng thi l ngi bo v cho t tng Hoa di
khng km g Trung Quc.(1)
Xut pht t s t tin v t tn v vn hin, vua Minh Mng tng

1. Lch s quan h Vit Nam - Trung Quc. Tr.543.

 ch th ch Hn ca vua Cn sch.(1) V vy, chng ta kh c
Long th thin, qu kch, th th ph nhn mt s nh hng
276 277
ng lm cng khng n ni ca cc dng o m cng ha
nh th(1), ng thi cn ni: tit trang tr c ngun gc Mn
Thanh l man di, o m vo Thanh trong trang phc ca vua
chu u theo thi tc man di, ti triu Nguyn. Ch ring o m
khng c bt chc. Nm L phc mi c chm chc t
1830, sau khi khi phc trang ngun tham kho chnh l trang
i Nam nht thng ton
phc Cn Min theo quy ch phc Tng - Minh.
Pha Bc gip ba tnh Qung ng, Qung Ty, Tng - Minh, vua Minh Mng Bn cnh , do quan nim
Vn Nam ca Trung chu; pha Ty khng ch cc
tc man di, tip vi cc nc Nam Chng, Min
xung d: Cn Min c vn ha, tn ngng ca phng
in; pha ng trng ra b ln, m bc cc o; t nh t i Hin Vin, i Ty hon ton khc bit vi
pha Nam cng chm ti bin, vng qua pha Ty
Nam st vch Xim La, cc thuc quc cn li v
Tam i tr xung t dng [] truyn thng ca ngi Vit, cc
tc man di khc nhau ni ph u c, tht l mt Ngay nh Bc triu t khi nh v vua u triu Nguyn u mt
i quc sng sng gia tri t (L Vn Phc.
Bin di lun).
Thanh dng nc n nay mc bi xch, thm ch coi ngi
cng b lu. Nay ta ch phng Ty l man di, cn phi
dng, in l ca ngi Thanh mt, chc s bt chc ta m sa li thn trng phng. Nh thng
cho ng. So vi Bc triu, ta cng v vang vy. Nhng lng trm cng 6 nm 1804, vua Gia Long ni:
cha dm cho l iu hay nht, v th tri ct thc tm ch khng Tin vng kinh dinh vic nc,
phi vn v. (2)
khng H ln vi di, thc
Tuy nhin, t trong nhn quan Nho gio ng thi, mc d ht l ci phng t lc vic cn
sc t tin v tnh chnh thng, song vua quan triu Nguyn vn phi nh. Ngi Hng mao gian gio
cng nhn vn ha nh Thanh t c nhiu thnh tu v c nhiu tr tr, khng phi ni ging ta,
iu ng hc hi. Nu nh quan ch thi Gia Long cn gn gi mt lng t d bit, ch c cho
phn quan ch nh L Trung Hng th n thi Minh Mng li c li, nn ban thng hu hnh ri
phng theo quan ch ca nh Thanh. Ngay b Hong Vit lut l phn xua i(2) Vua Minh Mng cng
ln c tham kho t sch lut ca nh Thanh, nh chnh li vua Gia c nhn nh tng t: Ngi
Long bo ca nh Nguyn, nh Thanh, nh
Long ni: Cc i Hn, ng, Tng, Minh ca Bc triu, sch lut lnh Ty dng bn tnh gio tr kiu
Minh v Triu Tin.
i no cng c sa i v hon b nht l i Thanh. Trm bn sai cc ngo, phi chng nay c n
quan trong triu chun theo php in lut l ca cc triu, tham kho cu tut nn bng chc ci ha c ci tc di r ca h?(3)
thm lut lnh i Hng c v ca nh Thanh [] ri bin tp li thnh Trc bi cnh nh vy, khi t nh ch o m phm phc,

1. (Vit) i Nam thc lc. Chnh bin. nh k. Q.159. (Tp 4). Cn Long nh Thanh lm th rt nhiu, ta 1. C lut Vit Nam. Quc triu hnh lut v Hong Vit lut l. Tr.173-174.
xem ra, u l nhng bi i thng vo tnh cnh, chng cn nhng li ph phim gt gia, song c nhiu ch 2. (Vit) i Nam thc lc - Chnh bin - nht k - Q.24. Nguyn vn:
cn th [] Cc bi ta lm ch t tnh, t cnh m dng ch chng n ni qu kch nh th.
2. (Vit) Minh Mng chnh yu. Tp.3. Q.12. Tr.CCLXV-4a. Nguyn vn: 3. Minh Mng chnh yu. Tp VI. Ph lc Hn vn. Tr.CCCXIV.31b. Nguyn vn:
[] ; Tr.CCCXXV.37a. Nguyn vn:

 ngoi vic k tha mt phn quy ch thi L Trung Hng v thi cha a. Cn Min
Nguyn Phc Khot, triu nh nh Nguyn vn tip tc tham kho ch Thi cc cha Nguyn ct c ng
278 279
trang phc ca cc triu i Trung Hoa l nh Tng, nh Minh v Trong, vo dp t l, cha i m Xung
nh Thanh, trong , trang phc Tng - Minh l ngun tham kho chnh Thin lm bng sa, mc o bo (giao lnh)
thng. T thi vua ng Khnh, Khi nh v sau, trang phc trong mu huyn, i giy mt, khng x tt.(1)
triu khng cn c tun th nghim ngt nh trc; qun phc Sau khi vua Gia Long thng nht lnh
ca nh vua dn dn cng chu nh hng kiu cch qun phc phng th, thng 2 nm 1807, vua mi bt u
Ty, vic i giy Ty trong triu cng ngy mt thnh hnh. c bit di nh i l Nam Giao, vo ngy t, vua
triu vua Bo i, ln u tin vua cho php b quan khng cn mc cc i m Cu Long, mc Hong bo, ai
b Triu phc, Thng phc khi vo chu, ch cn mc b l phc gin ngc, xim vng, ln n lm l.(2) Minh
tin l o the, khn xp. Mng chnh yu cng cho bit t nm
t trong nhn quan phong kin ng thi, triu nh nh Nguyn 1830 tr v trc, khi t Giao, vua ch i
bt lun th no cng s hu mt nn vn hin o mo c b dy m Cu Long, mc Hong bo, ai ngc
truyn thng v nhng cch tn c sc, t tin snh ngang vi cc quc nh khi lm l t Hng Tng miu(3).
gia Nho gio nh Trung Quc, Triu Tin, khin Khm s nh Thanh l M Cu Long c nhc n y
Lao Sng Quang phi cng nhn: Gn gi Trung H, tn sng Nho gio, l m Cu Long Thng Thin, tn gi
yu chung thi th, cng c coi l t thanh danh vn vt, t phi ni khc ca m Xung Thin triu Nguyn.
n hai nc Triu Tin v Vit Nam. (1)
Nh vy L phc t Giao thi vua Gia
Long vn tun theo quy ch thi L
I. TRANG PHC HONG Trung Hng. Nm 1830 l thi im triu
1. L phc nh vua Minh Mng khi phc quy ch
Vua Khi nh mc Cn Min. n t
Tng t nh cc v hong i Vit trc y, cc vua nh Cn Min. Theo quy ch L phc t
Nam Giao ti Hu.
Nguyn cng c t tng vng, lm b ch ton ci phng Nam. tri dnh cho hong c quy nh
c bit sau khi s hu mt quc th rng ln cha tng c trong lch l m Min 12 lu v o Cn 12 chng, c th c Hi in cho bit:
s m nh li triu thn L Vn Phc, Vit Nam lc ny l mt i quc M Min t Giao trn vung di trn, nh hai ch Vn Th
sng sng gia vm tri t, vua Minh Mng cho khi phc quy ch bng vng hoc hai ch Thin a bng vng, 12 hnh rng my, 6 hnh
o Cn m Min, vn b ph b t thi L Trung Hng, nh du v ngn la, 2 thy vn, 4 nhiu tng, 1 hoa sen, 1 a my, 1 lin ng
th ca thin t phng Nam c quyn c lp t tri. chy vin quanh thnh m, 256 ht vng, 2 cc, 2 khuyn. Mt trc v
Theo Hi in, cc vua nh Nguyn c hai loi L phc, gm L sau c 24 di lu, hai bn phi tri mi bn 1 di lu, u xu chui
phc Cn Min s dng trong l t Giao v L phc Xun Thu s dng bng san h, trn chu, pha l v cc ht vng, tng cng 300 ht. Xung
trong cc dp t l ti Tng Miu. quanh c mng kim tuyn nh kt vi 400 ht vng ngc. Trm khm
trn chu ni vi dy thy anh lm bng t vng. Phm l mt rng

1. (Trung) Hi ngoi k s - Q.2. Nguyn vn:

2. (Vit) i Nam thc lc - Chnh bin - nht k. Tp 1. Tr.692.
1. (Vit) Tp m thi vn - Nam quc phong nh thng bin t. Nguyn vn: ,, 3. (Vit) Minh Mng chnh yu. Tp 3. Q.12. Tr. CCLXIV-3b. Nguyn vn:
,
 u khm cc ht trn chu nh. Vng
cn sc 4 khuyn vng. (1)
280
Theo ghi nhn ca Hi in, i
Nam thc lc v hnh v trong BAVH, m
Min dnh cho Hong triu Nguyn l
loi m Min 12 lu (pha trc 12 lu,
pha sau 12 lu), khp vi cc nguyn
tc ca m Min dnh cho thin t theo
Chu l. Tuy nhin, nh chnh li vua Minh
Mng ni Cn Min c t thi Hin Vin
[] trm nay noi theo php xa m thm
bt , dy sung nh gn hai bn thi
(2)
dng m c i thnh hai di lu, dy
hong mu son c i thnh dy
thy anh lm bng t vng, cng li trang
M Min ca hong nh Nguyn tr trn nh min bn v quanh thn m
trong BAVH (1915) v m Min phc
ch (Bo tng Lch s Vit Nam; m u c th coi l nhng nt c sc ch
phc ch thiu dy thy anh). xut hin m Min ca triu Nguyn.
Kt hp vi loi m Min 12 lu l b Cn phc 12 chng, phi
vi cc phc sc nh ngc khu, ngc bi, i th, T tt, Cch i, i can kim tuyn. ng bin may lin on gm lan can thun bc hoa
i v.v. C th:
o Cn may bng sa mt bng thun ch, mu thin thanh, thu
6 chng: Nht, Nguyt, Tinh thn, Sn, Long, Hoa trng. Di thy lu
(ch di vi buc o ca o giao lnh, tnh cht nh cc) thu hnh rng my, hoc may
bng sa mt bng thun ch mu tuyt bch. ng tay o thu hnh rng
my. C o may bng on Bt ti bng mu quan lc. o lt trong may
bng la mu trng thu hoa vn ch (tc chng Pht), di thy lu
thu hnh rng my, sng nc.
Thng may bng sa mt bng thun ch mu vng chnh sc,
thu cc chng: To, Ha, Phn m, Ph, Pht, Tng di (Thng 6 chng
kt hp vi o Cn 6 chng, tng cng 12 chng) v cc hnh c , bt bo, lin
1. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.5,6. Nguyn vn:
2. (Vit) Minh Mng chnh yu. Tp 3. Q.12. Tr.CCLXV-4a.
ng, hi vn, sng nc vn vn. Vin
gm hng nht hoa sen thun vng mu
281
bo lam, lt sa Nam mt bng mu vng
chnh sc. K y (o lt c trn gn vi thng) may
bng la trng.
T tt mt chic, lm bng t Bt ti
bng mu vng chnh sc, lt la mu ,
thu chng Sn, Long, hnh my v cc
hnh ha lu. 4 ng bin may lin on
gm lan can thun bc hoa mai mu bo
lam xen vi on Bt ti bng mu hoa xch
( hoa). Vin gm hng nht hoa sen thun
vng, 4 mc vng, 4 cc vng.
i th mt chic, lm bng on
Bt ti bng mu thin thanh, lt la mu
vng, thu hnh rng my, sng nc v 1. o lt thu hoa vn ch ca vua
Triu Tin (cn gi o Trung n); 2.
cc hnh c . Bn trn may lin mt Thng v K y ca vua quan triu
ming (ngc trng) hnh bn nguyt vi Nguyn (BAVH).
on Bt ti bng mu hoa xch, thu cc hnh rng my xen vi hnh lan
mai mu bo lam. Vin gm hng nht hoa sen thun vng mu bo lam
kt vi dy nhung xu ngc cc mu. 1 di thy anh, 2 di thy lu xen
dng tru bng mu vng, trng, .
Pha di kt li, thy anh v mc bc
4 chic, cc vng 7 ht.
Ngc bi hai di. Mi di c 1 ngc
trng hnh con di, 1 ngc trng hnh
vung, 1 ngc trng hnh trn, 2 ngc
trng hnh bn nguyt, 1 ngc trng
hnh khnh, xu chui vi cc ht vn
mu, san h, h phch mu en, mi
loi hn 200 ht, 1 mc cu vng.
Cch i mt chic, bc t Bt
ti bng mu vng chnh sc, kt vi 1
Ngc bi kt hp vi Cn phc ca vua
triu Nguyn (BAVH); 2. Tp bi ming ngc trng hnh vung, 6 ming
(Tam ti hi). ngc trng hnh chic mc, bn ngoi

282
Hia p dng cho Cn phc, Triu phc v
Thng phc ca vua triu Nguyn. (Bu vt
triu Nguyn).
Hia thn lm bng t Bt ti mu thm,
thu rng my, lin ng, ngn la v hi
vn kim tuyn, xen k gn kt vi gng ty;
pha di lm bng t lng v mu vng, thu
nh cc loi ht trn chu, san h nh, hnh
rng, mi loi 2 th v cc hnh c , xen k
gn vi gng ty, nh 3 chic kim bn, mi
chic khm 1 ht ha t, 2 ht kim cang lt
on Bt ti mu .(1)
i chiu t liu vn t v t liu hnh
nh tng quan, c th thy trang phc Cn
1. (Vit) Hi in - Quyn 78. Tr.6-8. Nguyn vn:
. 1. BAVH. 1915. Tr. 75-76 .
u bc vng, 6 chn cc, 2 hnh l Min ca Hong triu Nguyn tuy phn ln tham kho t quy ch
vng ta, 2 khuy kp bc. Tng - Minh, song xut hin rt nhiu bin d, c bit l vic s dng
283
i i lm bng on Bt ti i i vt ngang vai v s kt hp gia thng v K y c trn. Ring i
bng mu bo lam, bn trong lt i, theo quy ch Tng Minh, l di ai bng la trng dng tht lng,
tru bng mu hoa xch, hai u kt hp vi ai da - cch i. Song nh BAVH m t, vo thi Nguyn,
xu chui vi cc hng chu ngc, i i l di khn mnh vt qua vai, vt qua ngc, mi u u c
c thy 392 ht, 10 di thy anh kim dim bn rng bng la nm ngc nhiu mu v r xung tht thp.(1)
tuyn.
Bt tt ging nh Triu phc
(thn lm bng t Bt ti bng mu bo lam,
gia l t Bt ti bng mu tuyt bch, pha
di l vi ty mu tuyt bch dt thun
vng, gm hng nht hoa sen xen lan can
kim tuyn, pha trn gn vi h tt).
Mt trong nhng chic tt ca
vua Khi nh (nh: Trnh
Bch).
1. Vua Khi nh mc trang phc Cn Min, song thay v tht T tt pha trc, ng li
tht i Th vn l phc sc che pha sau. Cch phi hp nh vy khng hp quy ch. Phi
chng y l mt trong nhng kiu n vn khng phi li ca vua Khi nh nh li cng
kch ca Phan Chu Trinh. (Tht iu trn. Tp ch Nghin cu lch s, s 66); 2. Trang phc
Cn Min ca Hong triu Nguyn (Phc dng).
Trang phc Cn Min ca Hong triu Nguyn (BAVH) 1.2.3.4. M Min 12 lu. (1. Min bn
nhn t trn xung; 2 - 3. M Min nhn trc din v trc din; 4. Dy thy anh mu vng gn trm
ngc); 5. Khu (cn gi l Trn khu, ht). 6. Hia. 7. i i. 8. Cch i. 9. Bi. 10. Tp bi. 11.
Tiu th. 12. Cn phc 12 chng (mt trc v mt sau): A. o xanh en 6 chng (a. Nguyt; b.
Nht; c. Tinh thn; d. Sn; e. Long; f. Hoa trng). B. Thng 6 chng. C. T tt (thu 2 chng
Sn v Long, 1 hnh rng bay ln v 1 hnh rng bay xung). D. i th.

Mt s phc sc trong b Cn phc ca hong nh Minh (Tam ti hi). 1. o Cn mu huyn;

2. o lt Trung n; 3. Thng mu nht; 4. T tt; 5. Cch i; 6. i i; 7. Th; 8. Tp bi. Hin vt o Cn ca vua Khi nh triu Nguyn (nh: Trnh Bch), Hiu Minh thin hong
Quy ch Cn Min ca nh Minh c sa i nhiu ln. Quy ch Cn Min ca Hong triu Nht Bn (M thut Nht Bn) v Thun Tng hong thi i Hn quc (Phc sc).
Nguyn nhiu kh nng c tham kho trc tip t quy ch trong Tam ti hi.
 BNG SO SNH QUY CH CN MIN 12 LU 12 b. Xun Thu
CHNG CA HONG NH NGUYN VIT NAM VI NH TNG T Tng miu cng l mt trong nhng
286 287
V NH MINH TRUNG QUC l tit quan trng trong vn ha cung nh.
(theo i Nam hi in s l, Tng s v Minh hi in) Vo dp t l ny, vua nh Trn s dng L
phc Quyn Vn, vua nh L s dng L
Quy ch ca nh Quy ch ca nh Quy ch ca nh Minh phc Bnh nh, cc vua nh Nguyn mun
Nguyn Tng
nht vo thi vua Gia Long c L phc
-M Min 12 lu, sung -M Min 12 lu, thn -M Min 12 lu, thn m Xun Thu. i Nam thc lc cho bit: Bui
nh c thay bng m Thng Thin gia dng ng gia min bn, dy
2 di lu, dy hong min bn, dy hong hong mu son hm trc ngy ht tang mt nm, vua (ch
c thay bng dy mu son vua Gia Long) b o tang, ni gim em ct i.
thy anh lm bng t
vng n ngy , bn th by t nh nghi thc
-o Cn mu xanh, -o Cn mu xanh, -o Cn mu huyn, thu 6 t in ln. Vua mc trng, i m Xun
thu 6 chng Nht, thu 7 chng Nht, chng Nht, Nguyt, Tinh, Thu bng sa trng, o giao lnh bng sa
Nguyt, Tinh, Sn, Nguyt, Tinh, Sn, Sn, Long, Hoa trng
Long, Hoa trng Long, Tr (Hoa trng), trng, thng bng la trng, giy v bt tt
H du (Tng di) trng, n trc bn th lm l [] T in
-Thng mu vng, -Thng mu , thu -Thng mu vng, thu 6 ln, t cu ngu, t tt khc mc cng theo
thu 6 chng To, 5 chng To, Ha, chng To, Ha, Tng di,
Ha, Phn m, Tng Phn m, Ph, Pht Phn m, Ph, Pht nh th [] Cn t Luyn, t Tng v t
di, Ph, Pht v cc m th sau ngy tt khc mi c hnh. T
hnh c , bt bo...
Luyn vua mc L phc, i m Xun Thu
-o Trung n may -o Trung n may -o Trung n may bng sa
bng la trng, thu bng l trng trng, c o thu 13 chng
bng sa thm, o giao lnh bng sa thm,
12 chng Pht Pht thng bng la mu bic lt la trng, giy
-T tt mu vng vin -T tt mu , thu -T tt mu , thu 4 chng v bt tt en. T Tng v t m vua mc
lam, thu Sn, Long, 1 con rng bay ln, 1 To, Phn m, Ph, Pht mu, m Xun Thu bng nhiu thm,
1 rng bay ln, 1 rng con rng bay xung,
bay xung, hnh my gia l my, sc ngc o giao lnh bng sa on mu bo lam,
v cc hnh ha lu qu thng bng sa bic lt trng, bt tt lam, M Xun Thu ca quan v T
-i th thu hnh -i th 6 mu nh i th 6 mu nh 3 tiu th giy en.(1). Vo thi Gia Long, quy ch L phm (BAVH); Vua Gia Long
rng my sng nc, 3 tiu th kt 3 ngc kt 3 ngc hon i m Xun Thu di nt v ca
xu cc loi ngc hon phc Xun Thu c s phn bit ty theo quy ngi Php. (nh phc ch).
m ca bui t. t nht c ba dng L phc
-Ngc bi 2 di, gm -Ngc bi 2 di, lm -Ngc bi 2 di, gm cc loi
cc loi ngc hnh, c, bng ngc trng tr ngc hnh, c, v, xung nha, Xun Thu p dng cho thin t trong cc dp t i in, t Cu Ngu, t
xung nha, hong rng hong
tt khc, t Luyn, t Tng, t m. Vo thi vua Minh Mng, quy ch
-Cch i nh ngc -Cch i tr rng -Cch i nh ngc L phc Xun Thu c gin ha, thng nht l m Xun Thu mu en
trng, bc vng phng bng vng
kt hp vi o giao lnh mu thin thanh (mu huyn).
-Tt pha trn gn h -Tt , giy Tch -Tt , giy Tch
tt, thn mu lam, Nm 1821, vua Minh Mng ni vi Thng th B L Phm ng
pha di mu trng, Hng: Trong ngy k lit thnh, hong kho ta i m Xun Thu, mc
dt vng, hia mu
thm thu rng my
1. (Vit) i Nam thc lc - Chnh bin - nht k. Tp 1. Tr.896.
 o giao lnh, t c in tc. Trm nn theo l ca hong kho th lit v Thng triu.(1) Nh vy, vo thi Nguyn,
thnh th hong kho.(1) ng thi quy nh: Triu phc hay cn gi l trang phc i triu
288 289
M L phc l m Xun Thu, lm bng sa tru mu en, nh 1 ch trang phc mc vo ngy rm, mng mt
bng hoa bc, khm mt ht pha l lp lnh. Vng cn mt chic, sc bn v mt s dp l tt nht nh; Thng phc l
khuyn bc. o giao lnh lm bng sa mt thun ch, mu thin thanh, trang phc mc vo cc ngy chu thng mng
o lt lm bng sa mt thun ch mu tuyt bch, u thu hoa vn rng 5, 10, 20, 25.
my, sng nc. Hoc o lm bng on Bt ti bng thun ch lai l, a. M Cu Long Thng Thin
mu thin thanh, thu rng my, bn trong lt lnh 12 hoa mu n cho Hi in, Hi in tc bin, i Nam in l
mu ngc lam. C o v hai di thy lu u dng mu sc gc (ca o). tot yu, i Nam thc lc u ghi nhn, vo cc
Thng lm bng sa mt thu hoa nh, mu ngc lam, vin lm bng bui i triu, hong mc Hong bo, i m
on Bt ti bng mu thin thanh. K y lm bng la sng. Cu Long Thng Thin. Loi m Triu phc ny
Bt tt c thn lm bng t Bt ti bng mu bo lam, gia l t Bt mt s sch nh Minh Mng chnh yu, i M Cu Long Thng Thin
ti bng mu tuyt bch, pha di l vi ty mu tuyt bch dt thun Nam thc lc cn c gi tt l m Cu Long, th hin trn tng kim thn
ca vua Khi nh (Lng
vng, gm hng nht hoa sen xen lan can kim tuyn, bn trong lt la trong dn gian quen gi l m Xung Thin. Nam Khi nh. nh: TQ).
mu . Hia c thn hia lm bng t Bt ti mu thm, bn trong lt lnh phng danh vt b kho thi Nguyn gii thch:
bng mu bo lam.(2) M Xung Thin, m i triu ca thin t ngy nay, nh m Phc u,
2. Triu phc hai cnh chun cha ln tri.(2) Ring t Thng Thin, Ch Nam ngc
T thng 5 nm 1806 thi vua Gia Long, m gii thch Thng Thin quan hiu (gi l) Triu Thin.(3) T in Vit
cc bui chu i triu, Thng triu c quy - B - La ca Alexandre de Rhodes nh ngha: M Triu Thin l vng
nh: Mi thng ly ngy mng mt v ngy min (m ca vua). Cc c liu trn chng t vo thi L -Nguyn, loi
rm t i triu in Thi Ha, quan t lc m tng t m Phc u c hai cnh chun hng ln tri, ngoi tn
phm tr ln mc o m i triu vo ly chu; gi m Xung Thin, cn c gi l m Triu Thin v Thng Thin.
nhng ngy mng 5, 10, 20, 25 t Thng triu Ring loi m Thng Thin c nhng bi my cun trn nh m, nh
in Cn Chnh, quan t t phm tr ln mc Trn gi l m Quyn Vn, nh L Trung Hng gi l m Tam Sn.
o m Thng triu vo ly chu. Cc thnh v i vi quy ch m Cu Long Thng Thin, Hi in cho bit, m
dinh trn n ngy mng mt v ngy rm u i triu Cu Long Thng Thin nh 31 hnh rng vng, 30 hnh ngn
bi vng Hnh cung.(3) Minh Mng chnh yu la; pha trc v sau u c 1 bc sn, 1 honh long, ht bc pha l lp
Vua ng Khnh tht
cng c ghi chp tng t, ng thi cho bit, lnh v ht thng thin mi th 2 chic; 1 lin ng, 1 nhiu tng, 1
Vng Cn, i m Cu
phm gp thng nhun u min c i triu Long Thng Thin. a hoa hnh trn, 30 a my u kt bng ch; cc hng ngc dng
khm sc nh ha t, kim cang, trn chu gm 140 ht, mt mi con
rng u khm 1 ht trn chu nh.(4) Trc khi i m, vua cn tht
1. (Vit) Minh Mng chnh yu. Tp 3. Q.11. Tr.CCX -15b.
2. (Vit) Hi in - Quyn 78. Tr.4-5. Nguyn vn:
1. (Vit) Minh Mng chnh yu. Tp 3. Q.11. Tr.CCXVIII-19b.
2. (Vit) Nam phng danh vt b kho - Thng - Q.31 - Phc dng mn. Nguyn vn:

3. (Vit) Ch Nam ngc m. Tr.120
4. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.1-2. Nguyn vn:
3. (Vit) i Nam thc lc - Chnh bin - nht k. Tp 1. Tr.666
 Vng cn sc 4 khuyn vng. Nh vy c
th thy, loi m Triu phc ca Hong
290
nh Nguyn c ngun gc l m Xung Thin
ca vua L cha Trnh, song c sc ln
v s trang sc bng vng v qu, ng
thi c t tn mi, gi l m Cu Long
Thng Thin. Qua mt s nh chp cc v
Mt trc v sau u c hai ch Vn
Th, ba hnh rng. Hai ng tay o v
291
hai cnh u c mt hnh rng. Cc
hoa vn san h, ha lu u xu chui
bng cc ht ngc chu nh. C o
may bng on Bt ti bng mu tuyt
bch. Thy lu hai di (ch hai di tht

vua ng Khnh, Duy Tn, Khi nh, Bo nh nch o, c chc nng nh cc) u thu
i, c th thy li trang sc trn m Cu hnh rng my.
Long ca cc v vua ny khng hon ton Thng lm bng sa mt bng
ng nht. c bit, hai cnh m Xung mu hoa xch, thu hnh cc hnh
Thin th hin trn pho tng kim thn ca rng , sng nc, c , bt bo; pha
vua Khi nh c dng cong trn hi hng di ni vi hnh hi vn, lin ng,
v pha trc, trng khp vi hnh dng lan can mu hoa xch, gm on lt
cnh m Xung Thin ca vua Quang Trung la mu , gm hng nht thu hoa
gi th hin trong bc tranh Cn Long bt sen thun vng mu lc lam. K y lm
tun vn th khnh in . Dng cnh m bng la sng. Chn dung vua ng Khnh (1864 - 1889)
M Cu Long Thng Thin ca mc Triu phc. Ngc o bo thu 2 ch
cc vua nh Nguyn. (Phc ch.
ny nn c coi l quy ch chung nht ca ai lm bng on Bt ti bng Vn Th theo li ch Trin. (Bu vt triu
Bo tng Lch s). Bc sn: trang dng m Xung Thin triu L Nguyn hay mu vng chnh sc may xen vi t Nguyn).
sc hnh bn nguyt chy vng trn
trn m. Ht bc pha l lp lnh:
ch l vi trng hp c bit? Vi c liu mu xch v, nh 18 ming sng t hnh mc di, bn ngoi bc vng,
trang sc nh cho 2 bn Bc Sn. hin c chng ti thin v kh nng th khm 92 ht trn chu.
Nhiu Tng: trang sc nh gia
trn m. Honh long: hc cm cnh
nht, song chng ti cho rng, dng cnh Bt tt c thn lm bng t Bt ti bng mu bo lam, gia l t Bt
chun hnh u rng nm ngang m Xung Thin ny c l ch c s dng ti bng mu tuyt bch, pha di l vi ty mu tuyt bch dt thun
gy m. Ht Thng Thin: hai cnh
chun vn ra t Honh Long, l ra
t thi cha Nguyn Phc Khot tr v sau. vng, gm hng nht hoa sen xen lan can kim tuyn, pha trn gn h tt.
hi cong gp. Ngoi ra, o mo ca vua quan nh Nguyn
v c bn bm st quy ch ca Hi in,
nhng trn thc t vn c s gia gim, c bit l o mo ca nh vua.
b. Bo phc
Kt hp vi m Cu Long Thng Thin l b Bo phc bao gm
Hong bo, ai ngc, xim y, h tt, bt tt v hia.
Trong , o bo lm bng sa on mu vng chnh sc, thu cc
hnh rng my, sng nc ln nh v 4 ch Phc Th, o sa dy thu hoa
T hu (mai, lan, cc, trc) hoc loi tru mu hoa xch thu hoa T hu;
hai cnh (tc hai cnh ph hu lng o) dng on Bt ti bng mu bo lam.

Vua Thnh Thi, vua Bo i v vua Khi nh mc Triu phc.

 H tt lm bng t Bt ti bng mu vng
chnh sc, thu hnh rng my, sng nc, tt
292
c u dng kim tuyn theo kiu hi vn, vin
gm hng nht thun vng mu bo lam, bn
trong lt tru bng. Hia c thn hia lm
bng t Bt ti mu thm, thu cc hnh rng
my, sng nc, hoa bng kim tuyn, bn trong
lt t Bt ti mu .
(1)
Qua m t ca Hi in, kt hp vi t liu
nh triu Nguyn, c th thy Long bo ca cc
v vua triu Nguyn k tha kiu dng trang tr
Long bo thi L Trung Hng. c trng ca
li bo phc ny l hoa vn Long vn i hi
v hai cnh o ph hu lng o. S bin cch
ln nht ca Long bo, Mng bo triu Nguyn
nm hoa vn trang tr rng, my, sng nc,
c , bt bo, san h, ha lu v lan can,
mang li cm gic cu k v ngp mt.
Ngoi ra, t thi L - Trnh tr v trc,
o giao lnh l dng o ph bin, s dng trong
cung nh v dn gian, cho nn mt b Bo
phc thng thng bao gm o Trung n c
giao lnh mc lt bn trong, o on lnh c
trn mc ra bn ngoi. Vo thi Nguyn, triu
u tht Vng Cn, chn nh ph b kiu o giao lnh s dng trong
buc h tt. (K thut ca
ngy thng, thay vo l loi o di nm
ngi An Nam).
thn c ng ci khuy. C o bo ca vua quan
nh Nguyn lc ny c nh thm mt lp lt bng la trng di ra
pha ngoi, i m phng c o giao lnh trc y.
1. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.2-3. Nguyn vn:
mu, thu rng ln v cc hnh c , bt bo, sng nc; mt rng
u khm ht h phch mu huyn, cn li u xu chui cc ht chu
1. Nguyn vn:
3. Thng phc
Hi in cho bit m Thng triu ca cc
293
v vua nh Nguyn l Cu Long ng Cn, song
khng cp quy ch c th. Ring m Triu
phc Tht Long ng Cn ca hong thi t
c m t trang sc bng vng v ngc chu.
Sau khi kho st mt s nh chn dung cc v
vua triu Nguyn, chng ti pht hin thy
ngoi m Cu Long Thng Thin, cc vua nh
Nguyn cn i mt loi m c phn gy nh
cao, chm khum trn chm v pha trc, choi
sang hai bn thnh hnh ch Bt . Chng ti M Cu Long ng Cn th
hin trn tranh chn dung vua
cho rng, loi m xut hin trong cc nh chn
T c v vua Thnh Thi.
dung vua T c, ng Khnh, Thnh Thi l
m Cu Long ng Cn, loi m xut hin trong nh chn dung Thi
t Bo i v Thi t Bo Long l m Tht Long ng Cn. Ngoi ra,
theo t chu bn s 163 165 Khi nh quyn s 1, c th thy m Cu
Long ng Cn cn c gi tt l ng Cn. T chu ph ny cho
bit: Chiu theo l ca quc
triu hng nm gp cc tt
oan Dng, ng ch th t
nghi l Thng triu ti in
Cn Chnh, xin hong thng
i ng Cn, mc Long bo,
cm ngc khu.(1)
Kt hp vi ng Cn l
Long bo, song cn lu rng
Long bo Thng triu c b
Vua Thnh Thi, ng Khnh mc Thng phc.
cc hoa vn trang tr khc vi
Long bo i triu. Quy ch c th c Hi in m t: o bo lm
bng sa mt bng thun ch, mu vng chnh sc, bn trong lt cng
 ngc nh. Hai mt o v hai ng tay o u nh khng c s liu cp, ngoi tr thng tin ghi li trong tm bia i
xu chui cc ht chu ngc lm thnh hnh Vit Lam sn D lng bi cho bit vua L Hin Tng mc o Cn, i m
294 295
m t (ch cc ch c ngha p nh Phc, Th v.v). C o Min c dy hong mu son. Cn Min cng l L phc Tch in
lt on Bt ti bng mu vng chnh sc thu ca cc vua triu Hn ng, khc vi quy ch L phc Tch in thi
hnh rng my. Hai di thy lu u thu Tng Minh l m Thng Thin kt hp vi o bo .
hnh rng my. Thng dng sa mt bng 4. Qun phc
thun ch mu hoa xch, thu hnh rng , Vo thi vua Minh
sng nc, c , bt bo, cnh hoa v.v. pha Mng, qun phc hay trang
di ni vi hnh hi vn, lin ng, lan can phc nh vua s dng khi
mu hoa xch, gm on lt la mu , gm duyt binh c quy nh
hng nht thu hoa sen thun vng mu bo l m v i Long kt hp
lam. K y lm bng la sng. Bt tt c thn vi Hong bo hp tay c
lm bng t Bt ti bng mu bo lam, gia Vn kin lin c mu xanh
l t Bt ti bng mu tuyt bch, pha di l Vua Khi nh i m Triu thm. Song vi m t ca
phc, song li mc o bo
vi ty mu tuyt bch dt thun vng, gm Thng phc. Hi in, chng ta cng ch
hng nht hoa sen xen lan can kim tuyn, lt bit M v i Long c
sa, tru bng mu . Hia ging hia i triu(1). lm bng t lng v mu Qun phc ca vua triu Nguyn hp tay, vn kin lin
c. (Bo tng Lch s Vit Nam. nh: Philippe Trng).
Hi in cn cho bit, khi en, lt on Bt ti bng
cy rung Tch in, vua i mu vng chnh sc, lan can kim tuyn ca Ty dng, nh 4 hnh rng
m Cu Long ng Cn, Long vng, 1 hnh ngn la, 2 hnh rng my, 1 hnh my, mt rng khm trn
bo hp tay mu vng, ai hia chu, cn li u sc chu ngc. Thy anh dng lan can kim tuyn ca
ging nh trang phc duyt binh Ty dng.(1) Cn nh hnh dng c th ca loi m ny ra sao, hin
(tc qun phc).(2) Chng ti cho chng ti cha c t liu tranh nh c th xc thc. Ring bo phc
rng, trang phc th hin trong kt hp vi m v i Long, hin vn cn hin vt i chiu, v c bn
bc nh chn dung vua Thnh khp vi m t ca Hi in:
Thi (m Cu Long ng Cn o bo hp tay lm bng sa mt bng thun ch mu vng chnh
Vua Thnh Thi mc l phc Tch in v vua kt hp vi o bo hp tay, x sc, thu rng my, sng nc, c , bt bo, lt tru mu hoa xch thu
Duy Tn mc Thng phc.
bn vt, ai loan) chnh l trang mu n, bm bm. Vin gm hng nht hoa sen thun vng mu
phc cc vua nh Nguyn s dng trong ngy l Tch in. Trang phc bo lam, u xu chui cc ht trn chu, san h nh. Vn kin lin c
s dng khi cy rung Tch in ca vua cha i Vit trc y hu o lm bng on Bt ti bng mu thin thanh, thu rng my, sng
nc, c , bt bo. o ngn M qui hai chic, lm bng t Bt ti mu
1. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.3-4. Nguyn vn: thm, thu hnh rng my, sng nc, hnh con di, ngn la. Thng



1. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.8. Nguyn vn:

2. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.10. Nguyn vn:
 kp may bng t Bt ti bng mu Ngoi ra, vo thi vua Khi nh, phn ln cc loi trang phc ca
vng chnh sc, thu i phng vua u do vua t v kiu, thit k, ngay trang phc Cn Min t tri
296 297
v cc hnh lin ng, hi vn. cng b ph cch bng cch mc i th pha sau ln pha trc
Di gu lm bng t Bt ti bng thay cho t tt. c bit phi k n vic vua kt hp o bo hp tay, x
mu hoa xch, thu rng my, 4 vt s dng trong dp cy rung Tch in vi b qun phc chu u,
sng nc, lin ng, hi vn, ng thi phi vi nn hoc khn xp, to ra mt trong nhng loi qun
lt tru mu hoa xch thu hnh trang v tin khong hu. t trong bi cnh ng thi, khi vua nh
mu n, bm bm. Bn bn Thanh, Triu Tin, Nht Bn u du nhp v rp khun theo mu qun
may lin t Bt ti bng mu ngc phc phng Ty th chnh phong cch pha trn, ph v truyn thng
lam. Vin gm hng nht hoa th hin trn qun trang ca vua Khi nh li l nt c sc ca ring
Qun phc ca vua Khi nh v Thi t Bo
sen thun vng mu bo lam Long (1936-2007). ng v ring triu i ng tr v. Tuy nhin, ngoi b qun phc ph
gn tru mu thu mu n, cch, vua Khi nh vn c b qun trang chun mc theo ng dng
bm bm. Thy anh, long bi vng ba mt u lm bng vng, hnh thc ca phng Ty. n thi vua Bo i, chng ta khng cn thy s
chic mc rng my, xung quanh si nhiu tuyn khm cc loi ngc ha ph cch, pha trn ny thm na.
t, trn chu, kim cang, san h hn 300 ht, hn 50 di thy anh kim
tuyn. ai loan mt chic, lan can kim tuyn Ty dng khm 1 ht kim II. TRANG PHC B QUAN
cang hnh phng nh. Xung quanh khm ht kim cang, bn ngoi bc Quy ch Triu phc v Thng
vng, khuy kp, chn cc xu chui trn chu, san h, thanh liu hnh phc ca b quan triu Nguyn c t
hoa 9 a. Hia c thn lm bng t Bt ti mu thm may xen vi t Bt ti nh vo nm 1804 thi vua Gia Long.
bng mu vng chnh sc, lt t Bt ti bng mu hoa xch. (1)
Nm 1831, vua Minh Mng nh ra quy
ch T phc Cn Min dnh cho hong
t, vng cng v cc quan nht, nh, tam
phm. Nm 1845 thi vua Thiu Tr, quy
ch Triu phc c sa i, ch yu
quy ch trang sc trn m Phc u.
1. L phc
1.1. L phc t Giao
Ngay t thi Xun Thu ti Trung
Quc, Cn Min c quy nh l
Vua Minh Tr Nht Bn (1852-1912), vua Khi nh Vit Nam (1885 - 1925), vua Ph Nghi Trung
Quc (1906-1967), vua Cao Tng Triu Tin (1852-1919) mc Qun phc. trang phc i l dnh cho thin t nh
Chu, vua ch hu v mt s v i thn.
1. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.8-10. Nguyn vn:
Ch Cn Min ca nc ta mun nht
Ng , nhc kh s dng khi t
c t nh vo triu inh, c k Giao p dng theo Chu l. Ng ca
nh Thanh (Bo tng C cung Bc
tha qua cc triu i Tin L, L, Trn, Kinh), Ng ca nh Nguyn (BAVH)
H v tuyt tch vo thi thuc Minh. v Ng ca Hn Quc (Bo tng C
cung quc lp Seoul). (nh: TQ).
n thi vua L Thi Tng, quy ch Cn
 Min mi c khi phc, ng thi a. Cn Min 9 lu 9 chng
c duy tr qua cc i vua Nhn
298 299
Tng, Thnh Tng v Hin Tng. K Theo quy ch L phc t Giao
t sau nhng chnh bin, ng lon nm 1830, trang phc Cn Min p
cui thi L s, v vic vua L Trung dng cho hong t v vng cng triu
Hng mt i thc quyn, quy ch Cn Nguyn l m Min 9 lu, Cn phc 9
Min dnh cho vng cng dn b chng. Quy ch m Min 9 lu c
ph b. n thng 12 nm 1755 thi quy nh: M lm bng loi lng ui
vua L Hin Tng, triu nh mi ch nga tt vng ngoi, pha trn chp
ra o Cn m Min lm loi o mo vn g (mc bn) lm ct, pha trc trn,
th Khng T trong Vn Miu(1). Sau pha sau vung, bn ngoi bc bng
khi nh Nguyn thnh lp, nm 1831 on t lt lnh mu . Trc sau u
vua Minh Mng li tham kho quy c 9 dy lu, mi lu lm bng dy to
Quy ch m Min 12 lu ca thin t nh
Chu (Choe Kye Sun. Trung Quc lch ch Tng - Minh t ra trang phc ng sc, 9 tu, xu 9 ngc. Trm ng
i vng Min phc nghin cu) 1. Cn Min dnh cho vua quan triu dn dy hong mu huyn, r xung
Lu (cn gi l Ngc To); 2. To (dy
t ng sc); 3. Ngc chu; 4. Tu; 5. Nguyn, nh du s hon b v vn dy khong mu xanh, sung nh cht
(Ngc) Hnh; 6. m; 7. Thu Khong hin o mo ca quc i Nam. ngc trn mu trng, tua dy hong
hoc (Ngc) Trn; 8. Sung Nh; 9. Honh
(Chu t: dy son); 10. Nu; 11. K (Trm Mi mt triu i phong kin mu son. Xung quanh min bn vin
ngc); 12. V (cng cht liu, cng mu qun ch, bt k triu L, Trn, L, vng, tr hoa vn my r. M sc 1 bc Cn Min 9 lu 9 chng ca Vng
vi Din); 13. Din (cn gi Min Bn. 1 cng triu Nguyn (BAVH); 1. M
thc 6 tc x 8 tc. Mt u trn, mt u Nguyn ti Vit Nam, triu Tng, Minh sn vng, 2 hoa vng, 4 giao long vng,
Min 9 lu; 2. Bc sn vng; 3. Ht
vung, vin mu son). ti Trung Quc hay triu Cao Ly, Triu 4 si kim tuyn, l ci trm (nu) cng ng; 4. o Cn;. 5. T tt mu mc
ln trn thng mu nht; 6. i
Tin, khi t nh in chng ch u tham kho nhng quy ch c sc bng vng.(1) Trn thc t, thn m th mu nht, pha di ni vi cc
in, c bn ca Trung Quc, trn c s t to ra mt nn vn hin Min ca hong t, vng cng v cc tua ng sc. 7. Ngc bi. 8. Chng
Ph thu trn thng. 9. Chng Pht
ring bit. n c nh trang phc Cn Min, mt b Cn phc dnh quan triu Nguyn rt gn gi vi dng hnh ch thu trn thng.
cho thin t phi thu 12 chng, mt chic m Min dnh cho thin m Phc u. Cng chnh v c hnh
t phi c 12 lu. B Cn Min ca vua nh Nguyn c th thy qua dng m Phc u cho nn phn nh m giao vi min bn vn c
cc t liu tranh nh u khp vi nhng quy ch c in ny, song cc th nh thm trang sc bc sn.
hoa vn, trang sc hay s kt hp cc dng phc sc u c nhiu nt Kt hp vi m Min 9 lu l Cn phc 9 chng. Trong :
c sc ring bit, khng ln vi bt k vng triu no ca Trung Quc o 5 chng may bng on mu xanh en, thu chng Long
hay Nht Bn, Triu Tin. Quy ch Cn Min dnh cho hong t, vng vai, chng Sn lng, cc chng Ha, Hoa trng, Tng di mi chng
cng v b quan nh Nguyn cng tng t nh vy. 3 hnh hai ng tay o. C o mu nh mu o (mu gc).
Thng 4 chng lm bng on mu nht (Hun thng), thu cc
1. (Vit) Cng mc. Nguyn vn:
"Bt u ch
trang phc Cn Min th Vn Miu. Nguyn Huy Nhun, vin quan gi vic trong chnh ph dng li ni: 1. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.19. Nguyn vn: ,
ng thnh nhn l thy ca vng mun i, th m t trc n nay phm phc th Vn Miu vn
dng Min phc ca quan t khu, nh th khng phi t lng tn sng. Bn h lnh i dng trang phc
Cn Min. Dng trang phc ca vng th Vn Miu, bt u t y.
 chng To, Phn m, Ph, Pht, mi chng
hai hnh, pha trc 3 bc, pha sau 4 bc, cc
300 301
hnh xen k nhau.
C o Trung n sa trng thu 9 hoa vn
chng Pht.
T tt lm bng on mu nht, thu
hai chng Ha v Sn, bn trn c 2 chic mc
bng thau m vng.
Ngc bi 2 di, mi di 1 ngc hnh (hnh
chic khnh), 2 ngc c (hnh ch nht), cc loi ngc
hong (hnh bn nguyt), xung nha (hnh rng) tr Gia Hng vng mc Cn
Min 9 lu 9 chng. (nh:
ln u dng ng m vng, t ngc hnh Trnh Bch cung cp).
tr xung tht vi nm dy chp xu vi trn
chu cht liu ngc (ngc liu chu), pha trn c mc thau m vng.
i th pha trn
lm bng on mu
nht, thu hai chng Vng cng triu Nguyn bi t mc Cn Min 9 lu 9 chng. (BAVH).
Ha, Sn; pha di ni
vi cc tua ng sc.
i i pha trong
mu son pha ngoi mu
lc, ni vi cch i mu
nht, 6 ming ai hnh
vung, qu trm sc pha
trc, b mt u khm
i mi, vin vng.
Cn Min 9 lu 9 chng. T tt v i th u thu hai Vng cn, hia, bt tt
chng Ha v Sn. (BAVH).
u nh Triu phc.(1)

1. (Vit) Hi in - Quyn 78. Tr.20-21. Nguyn vn:

Cn phc 9 chng ca vua Triu Tin. Long 2 vai, Sn lng, cc chng

Ha, Hoa trng, Tng di mi chng 3 hnh ng tay o. (Hn Quc phc ch).

BNG SO SNH QUY CH CN MIN 9 LU 9 CHNG CA
302 HONG T NH NGUYN VIT NAM VI NH MINH TRUNG QUC
(theo Khm nh i Nam hi in s l, Minh hi in)
Quy ch ca nh Nguyn Quy ch ca nh Minh
Vit Nam
b. Cn Min 6 lu 5 chng, 4 lu 3 chng
303
Theo quy ch Cn Min ca nh Minh, Hong mc Cn Min 12
lu 12 chng, hong t, vng cng mc Cn Min 9 lu 9 chng, qun
vng mc Cn Min 7 lu 7 chng, b quan vn v t nht phm tr
Trung Quc
xung u mc Triu phc Lng Quan lm l, khng c mc Cn Min.

-M Min: Min bn trc trn, -M Min: Min bn trc trn,

sau vung, pha trc v sau u 9 sau vung, pha trc v sau u
lu, mi lu lm bng to ng sc, 9 lu, mi lu lm bng to ng
9 tu, xu 9 ngc; trm ng, dy sc, 9 tu, xu 9 ngc ng sc xen
hong mu huyn nh tua mu k; trm ngc, ngc hnh, dy
; dy khong mu xanh, sung m mu huyn, dy khong mu
nh cht ngc trn mu trng xanh, sung nh dng ngc xanh,
Hong dy hong mu , ngc trn mu
trng
-Cn phc mu xanh, thu 5 -Cn phc en huyn, thu 5
t , chng Sn, Long, Hoa trng, chng Sn, Long, Hoa trng,
Tng di, Ha; Long 2 vai, Sn Tng di, Ha; Long hai vai, Sn
lng, cc chng Ha, Hoa trng, lng, cc chng Ha, Hoa trng,
Tng di mi chng 3 hnh ng Tng di mi chng 3 hnh ng
vng tay o; c o cng mu vi mu o tay o; c o cng mu vi mu o Cn Min 6 Lu 5 Chng v 4 Lu 3 Chng ca cc quan triu Nguyn. (BAVH).

-Thng mu nht: thu 4 -Thng mu nht: thu 4

cng chng To, Phn m, Ph, Pht, chng To, Phn m, Ph, Pht,
mi chng 2 hnh mi chng 2 hnh Tuy nhin, theo quy ch ca nh Nguyn, cc quan t chnh nh
-o Trung n may bng sa trng, -o Trung n may bng sa trng, phm tr ln c mc Cn Min 6 lu 5 chng, cc quan vn tng nh
thu 9 chng Pht c o mu xanh, thu 11 chng phm v chnh tam phm c mc Cn Min 4 lu 3 chng(1). y li
Pht
l quy ch Thu Min v Hy Min p dng cho cc quan nh Tng. Tng
-T tt mu nht, thu 2 -T tt mu nht, thu 4
chng Ha v Sn chng To, Phn m, Ph, Pht
s ghi nhn: Thu Min 6 lu, o 3 chng, thu H du di (tc Tng di),
To, Phn m. Thng 2 chng, thu Ph, Pht [] cc chc th lang
-i th pha trn thu hai chng -i th 4 mu nh tiu th 3
Ha, Sn, pha di ni vi tua mu kt 2 ngc hon gia ca su b c mc; Hy Min 4 lu, o 1 chng, thu Phn m. Thng
ng sc 2 chng, thu Ph, Pht [] Cc chc quang lc khanh, gim st ng
-Ngc bi 2 di, mi di 1 ngc -Ngc bi 2 di, mi di 1 ngc s, c sch quan, c sch quan, phn hin quan tr ln c mc.(2)
hnh, 2 ngc c; cc loi ngc hnh, 1 ngc v, 1 ngc c, 1 xung
hong, xung nha tr ln u dng nha, 2 ngc hong, di ngc v
ng m vng; t ngc hnh tr r 1 ngc hoa, 2 ngc ch; t ngc
xung tht vi nm dy chp xu hnh tr xung, tht vi 5 tua, xu 1. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.48-50. Nguyn vn:
vi trn chu cht liu ngc, pha ngc chu; pha trn c mc vng
trn c mc thau m vng

-Cch i mu nht, vin vng -Cch i c mc vng

-Tt pha trn gn h tt, may -Tt trng, giy Tch
bng gm, hia u vung mu en
2. (Trung) Tng s. Q.152 Ch. nht bch ng. D phc T. Nguyn vn:
[]
 Nh vy, mt cch tng
quan c th thy quy ch Cn
304
Min ca nh Nguyn
tham kho t hai ngun chnh
l quy ch nh Tng v nh
Minh, khp vi li nhn nh
c phn khoa trng ca triu
thn L Vn Phc ai rng
m cao, y y phc Tng Minh
vy. Trong , Cn Min 9
lu 9 chng c tham kho
t quy ch Minh, cn Cn
Min 6 lu 5 chng v 4 lu
3 chng c tham kho t
quy ch Tng. D nhin, nh
chng ti cp, ton b
kiu dng hoa vn, trang sc,
cng nh s kt hp gia cc
phc sc (Thng, K y, i
th, t tt, i i v.v.) trong
b Cn phc ca Vit Nam
khng rp khun theo t l 1:1
so vi quy ch c ca Trung
Quc. Tnh hnh ny cng xy
ra tng t Triu Tin. So
snh s b tr hoa vn Ha,
Hoa trng, Tng di trn o
Cn 9 chng ca vua Triu
Tin vi o Cn 9 chng ca
vng cng triu Nguyn, c
th thy c s i ng tiu Cn Min 4 lu 3 chng ca Quan
d ny.
[]
305
Trang phc Hong v Hong thn triu Nguyn mc khi t Giao do Nguyn Vn Nhn v nm
1902 (Hong phi sc phc t thin t ch tn tht) ch l dng trang phc v theo tr tng tng ca
ha s. C l do Nguyn Vn Nhn cha c chng kin l t Nam Giao tn mt thy Cn Min.
QUY CH CN MIN CA CC QUAN NH NGUYN
(theo Hi in)
Cn Min 6 lu 5 chng Cn Min 4 lu 3 chng
Cc quan chnh nh phm Quan vn tng nh phm
tr ln v Chnh tam phm
M Min trc v sau u c 6 lu, mi M Min pha trc v sau u 4
lu 5 dy thi to, 6 tu, xu bi 6 ht chu lu, mi lu 5 thi to, 4 tu, xu
cht liu ngc; xung quanh min bn 4 vin ngc chu thi tho, cn li
qun ng khc hoa vn my r; m m u theo quy ch ca quan chnh
vng sc bc sn vng, 2 giao long vng, 1 nh phm; ring lc b i 2 hnh
kim tuyn, ch ci trm cng sc bng giao long vng
vng, cn li u theo quy ch Min phc
ca hong t v vng cng
o xanh 3 chng thu Phn m 2 hnh o xanh 1 chng thu Phn m 2
vai 1 hnh lng; To, Tng di hai tay o, hnh vai, 1 hnh lng, hai ng
mi chng 3 hnh; c o nh mu o tay o cng li thu mi bn 2 hnh;
Thng mu nht 2 chng, thu Ph, Thng mu nht 2 chng,
vn Tng Nh phm v Chnh Tam Pht mi chng 2 hnh; c o Trung n thu 2 hnh Ph v 2 hnh Pht
phm. (Phc dng. Tranh: L Tip). lm bng sa trng thu 7 hnh Pht
T tt v i th u thu chng Sn. i th trong v ngoi u lm bng l
trng, phn eo khng c vin, ch r xung vin mu lc. Ngc bi xu bi 3
vin ngc chu thi tho, cn li u theo quy ch bi, th ca hong t v cc
vng cng. ai mu nht, mt trc sc 6 ming gm hnh vung ln hnh
qu trm, b mt u khm i mi, vin ng m vng
 1.2. L phc Tch in 2. Triu phc
Tch in l mt trong nhng Theo quy ch Triu phc nm 1500 thi vua L Hin Tng, b quan
306 307
bui l quan trng ca cc nc nng nht lot i m Phc u kt hp vi B phc. Vo thi Nguyn, m
nghip. t nht t nm 987, vua L Phc u vn c p dng lm m Triu phc cho vn v b quan,
i Hnh ln u cy rung Tch song c phn lm ba loi: m Phc u dng trn dnh cho quan vn,
in. Tuy nhin, do s khut lp ca m Phc u dng vung dnh cho quan v v m Phc u nh thm
s liu, chng ta hin khng th bit 2 sng bc gi l m Gii Tri p dng cho Php quan (cc quan thc thi
c loi trang phc s dng vo dp php lut v ng s). M Triu phc ca hong thn, thn vng nh
l Tch in ca vua quan cc triu i Nguyn ch yu c ba loi: m Bnh nh, m Kim Quan v m Phc
inh, Tin L, L, Trn, H, Hu L. u vung.
Song chng ti ng rng, L phc Tch Ngoi ra, vo thi Nguyn, quy ch B t Triu phc thi L Trung
in ca cc triu i trc y c l Hng c thay i, quay tr li lm Thng phc nh quy ch triu L
khng nm ngoi cc b Triu phc v s v triu Minh. Song i vi cc chc quan lc phm, tht phm, o
Thng phc, c chng xut hin mt bo Triu phc vn s dng B phc kt hp vi m Phc u. Ring
Thng phc v Triu phc ca cc quan
vi bin cch nh tng t nh quy triu Nguyn. (BAVH). o bo Triu phc ca cc quan t nht phm n ng phm ln lt
ch ca triu Nguyn. c phn bit l cc loi Mng bo (cn gi l o bo T linh, thu hnh long, ln,
i vi quy ch L phc Tch in ca vua quan triu Nguyn, Hi quy, phng), Giao bo (o bo giao long) v Hoa bo (o bo hoa).
in ghi nhn, L phc ca hong l m Cu Long ng Cn kt a. Tht Long ng Cn
hp vi Long bo hp tay mu vng. Nm 1827, L phc Tch in ca Nm 1811, Triu phc
cc quan vn v chp s c quy nh l o Thi bo hp tay mu ca hong thi t c quy
lam. Quan v i m H u, quan vn i m Vn Cng, m Xun nh, m dng Tht Long
Thu. Bt, cu phm i Anh Cn, o Thi y hp tay. ai lng la mu ng Cn sc vng v
lam(1); nm 1849, L phc Tch in ca hong t v cc vng cng ngc chu. o bo rng
c quy nh l m Kim Quan, o Thi bo hp tay mu . Trong (2) mu sm. Thng thu
, m Cu Long ng Cn, m H u, Vn Cng, Xun Thu, Anh rng 5 mng. ai sc vng
Cn l m Thng phc ca vua v vn v b quan; m Kim Quan l tr rng.(1) Loi m Triu
m Triu phc ca hong t v thn vng. C iu, khc vi quy ch phc Tht Long ng Cn
Thng phc B t, L phc Tch in ca vua quan nh Nguyn l s ca hong thi t c kiu
kt hp gia m Thng phc v cc loi o Thi bo, Thi y hp tay, tc dng tng t m Thng
loi o c thu hoa vn sc s, tng t nh o bo Triu phc. triu Cu Long ng Cn
Quy ch c th ca cc loi m H u, Vn Cng, Xun Thu, Anh ca hong , song s lng
Vua Bo i khi cn l Hong thi t v Hong thi t
Cn, Kim Quan chng ti s tip tc trnh by phn sau. trang sc trn m c s gia Bo Long mc Triu phc.
gim. Bc nh vua Bo i

1. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.48. Nguyn vn:

1. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.17. Nguyn vn:
2. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.19. Nguyn vn:
 QUY CH TRIU PHC BNH NH NM 1845
(theo Hi in)
308 309

Hong t, hong thn c Hong t, hong thn c phong

phong tc thn vng, tc thn cng, quc cng
qun vng

M 6 hoa vng, 6 rng, (?) giao
Bnh long, 24 vn kh, 10 ngn la,
nh 4 nhiu tuyn, 4 hnh c
v 4 thy vn, nh m tr 2
hnh long vn, bao nh tr 4
hnh long vn, 28 bin bao
4 hoa vng, 4 rng, 2 giao long, 24
vn kh, 10 ngn la, 4 nhiu tuyn,
2 hnh c v 2 thy vn, nh m
tr 2 hnh long vn, bao nh tr 4
hnh long vn, 28 bin bao

Long bo c trn, mu sm (i Xch) ca vua ng Khnh khi cn lm Hong Thi t. o bo o bo i vn mu sm o bo T linh mu i xch lm
lm bng on Bt ti ng sc bng on Bt ti ng sc gia kim
gia kim
khi cn l Hong thi t v bc nh Hong thi t ai Trc sau c 18 ming, b Phi tri trc sau 18 ming; ai
Bo Long trong l tn phong u th hin b Triu mt tr hnh mng khm ca thn cng b mt tr hnh k
vng, cc ming ai u bc ln khm vng, u bc vng; ai
phc ny. vng ca quc cng ming chnh gia
b. Bnh nh (Bnh Thin) pha trc tr hnh k ln khm
vng, 4 ming hnh dt bn phi
Nm 1816, Triu phc ca cc v hong t, v tri b mt tr hnh hoa khm
hong tn, cng t c quy nh, m dng m vng, 13 ming cn li b mt khm
gng, cc ming ai xen k nhau,
Bnh Thin sc vng v ngc chu. o bo dng u bc vng
Mng bo c trn, mu sm. Thng thu rng Thng Lm bng sa mt mu hoa xch ng sc gia kim, thu hnh k ln
4 mng. ai sc vng rng 4 mng. (1)
Tuy nhin
16 nm sau, vua Minh Mng ra li d, quy nh
i tn m Bnh Thin thnh m Bnh nh v cho
rng tn Bnh Thin l tn nm na khng c in
nh, v li hai ch Bnh Thin cng khng phi t
dnh cho phn b ti(2), ng thi quy nh, m
Bnh nh l m Triu phc p dng cho hong Tuy L vng Min
t, hong thn c phong tc thn vng, qun Trinh v Hong Ha
Qun vng Min
vng, thn cng, qun cng. Trin i m Bnh nh
(BAVH).

1. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.19. Nguyn vn:
. Tr.36. Nguyn vn:
2. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.21. Nguyn vn:
M Kim quan. 1. M trong chn dung Tng thin vng Min Thm (mi tn : Bc Sn vng);
2, 4. M lu gi ti Bo tng Qun s Php (nh: Nguyn Nh an Huyn); 3. M lu gi ti
BTLSVN (nh: TQ). gii: 1.Hu x; 2. H k; 3. H Nh; 4. Giao long; 5. Vn kh; 6. Hoa;
7. Thy vn.
 c. Kim Quan d. Phc u
Theo Hi in, m Kim Quan kt hp vi o bo T linh mu l M Phc u c p dng
310 311
Triu phc ca hong t, hong thn c phong tc qun cng, huyn rng ri lm m Triu phc cho b
cng, hng cng, huyn hu v hng hu. quan vn v v mt s v hong t,
hong thn, tn tht triu Nguyn.
Trong , m Phc u trn c
quy nh l m Triu phc ca quan
vn, m Phc u vung l m Triu
phc ca quan v (ngoi tr quan bt, cu
phm)(1), ng thi cng l m Triu M Phc u trn, m Phc u vung,
m Gii Tri. (BAVH).
phc ca cc v tn tht c phong
tc thn vng, qun vng, thn
cng, quc cng, qun cng, huyn
cng, hng cng, huyn hu, hng
hu, cc v hong t, hong thn, tn
tht c phong tc k ngoi hu,
k ni hu, nh hu, tr quc khanh, Hin vt m Phc u vung ca quan
v Nht phm triu Nguyn (b su tp
t quc khanh, phng quc khanh, c nhn).
Tng Thin vng Min Thm (1819 - 1870), i m Kim Quan; Quc cu triu tr quc y, t quc y, phng quc Trang sc: 1. Bc sn (cn gi l kha
Nguyn lm ch hn trong m ci ca cng cha, i m Kim quan. (BAVH). kiu); 2. Hoa; 3. Giao long; 4. Ngch
y, tr quc lang, t quc lang, phng tng; 5. Kha gin (cn gi l ht); 6.
quc lang(2). Ngoi ra, loi m Phc Nh ; 7. Nhiu tuyn.
QUY CH M KIM QUAN NM 1845
u c nh hai sng bc trang
(theo Hi in)
sc bc sn, gi l m Gii Tri, l
m Triu phc ca ng s, ph
Hong t, hong thn c Hong t, hong thn c
phong tc qun cng, phong hng cng, huyn hu, ng s v cc chc khoa o chng
huyn cng hng hu n(3).
M Sc 2 bc sn vng, pha trc v Sc 2 bc sn vng, trc v sau 2 Quy ch Triu phc Phc u
Kim sau 3 hoa vng, pha trc 4 giao hoa vng, cn li ging hong t, ca b quan triu Nguyn c t
Quan long vng, trn nh 2 hnh my, thn vng c phong huyn
1 hu x (cnh sau), 1 h k (bm cng nh ln u tin vo nm 1804 thi Trang sc m Phc u. 1. Bc sn vng
h), 2 h nh (tai h), 6 vn kh, vua Gia Long, c chnh sa vo kha kiu vng; 2. Cnh chun vin bc
nh m tr 1 thy vn, 4 ngn vng, u sc vng, b mt nh giao long
la, u kt chui ht gi chu nm 1845 thi vua Thiu Tr. Quy ch vng; 3. Giao long vng; 4. Kha gin
o bo o bo T linh mu hoa xch lm bng on Bt ti ng sc gia kim nm 1845, v c bn tng t quy ch vng Ht vng.

ai Ming chnh gia pha trc tr hnh k ln khm vng, 17 ming

cn li b mt khm gng, u bc vng
Thng Lm bng sa mt mu hoa xch ng sc gia kim, thu hnh k ln 1. (Vit) i Nam in l tot yu. Nguyn vn:
2. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.25-31.
3. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.56-57.
 nm 1804, song tn gi ca mt s loi trang sc v s lng trang sc Hong t, 1 bc sn bc, 2 kha
trn m c s thay i. Nh thi Gia Long, trang sc bc sn c gi thn vng, tn gin vng, trc sau
312 tht c phong k 1 hoa vng; hai cnh 313
l kha kiu, ht (trang sc trn m) c gi l kha gin v.v. Ngoi ra, t ngoi hu, k ni chun vin bc bc; 2
nm 1845 tr v sau, ch c cc quan t lc phm tr ln mi c mc hu, nh hu, tr nh bc, 2 nhiu tuyn
quc khanh bc
Triu phc.
Hong t, 1 bc sn bc, 2 kha
thn vng, tn gin bc, trc sau 1
tht c phong t hoa bc; hai cnh chun
BNG SO SNH QUY CH TRANG SC M PHC U quc khanh, phng vin bc bc; 2 nh
NM 1804 V NM 1845 quc khanh, tr bc, 2 nhiu tuyn bc
quc y, t quc y
(theo Hi in)
Hong t, thn Trc sau 1 hoa bc, hai
vng, tn tht cnh chun vin bc
B quan Quy ch nm 1804 Quy ch nm 1845 c phong phng bc, 2 nh bc, 2 nhiu
quc y, tr quc tuyn bc.
lang, t quc lang,
Trn -Phc u trn: Tn tht c 1 bc sn vng, 1 ngch phng quc lang
nht 1 kha kiu vng, phong tc thn tng vng cao 4 phn
phm 2 ht vng cao 6 vng, qun vng tr hnh giao long, 2
(Tn phn; ngch tng kha gin vng, pha Chnh -Chnh nht phm: -Chnh nht phm: 1 bc sn vng, 1 ngch
nhn vng, hoa vng trc 1 hoa vng, 2 giao tng nh quan trn nht tng vng cao 4 phn, pha ngoi tr hnh
ph tn mt trc v sau, long vng, pha sau nht phm (1 kha kiu giao long; 2 kha gin vng; pha trc 1 hoa
nhn hai cnh chun 2 hoa vng; hai cnh phm vng, 2 ht vng vng, 2 giao long vng; pha sau 2 hoa vng;
lnh) vin bc vng, sc chun vin bc vng, cao 6 phn; ngch hai cnh chun vin bc vng, b mt sc giao
giao long vng b mt sc giao long tng vng, hoa long bn ngc bng vng, u cnh chun u
vng vn ngc chu, vng mt trc v sc vng; 2 nh vng, 2 nhiu tuyn vng
-Phc u vung: u cnh chun u sc sau, hai cnh chun -Tng nht phm: nh chnh nht phm; ring
1 kha kiu vng, vng; 2 nh vng, 2 vin bc vng, sc ngch tng cao 3 phn, tr hnh hoa; mt
2 ht vng 5 phn; nhiu tuyn vng giao long vng) m khng c ngc chu; u hai cnh chun
cn li nh trn -Tng nht phm: khng sc vng
1 kha kiu vng, 2
ht vng cao 5 phn,
Tn tht c Nh trn, ring ngch
cn li nh quan
phong tc thn tng cao 3 phn tr
trn nht phm
cng, quc cng hnh hoa; hai cnh
chun sc giao long
vng, u cnh chun
Chnh 1 kha kiu vng, -Chnh nh phm: 1 bc sn vng; 2 kha gin
khng sc vng l khc
tng nh hoa vng mt vng; pha trc 1 hoa vng, 2 giao long vng;
bit
phm trc v sau, hai pha sau 2 hoa vng; hai cnh chun vin bc
Tn tht c Nh tn tht c cnh chun vin vng, b mt sc giao long vng; 2 nh vng,
phong tc qun phong tc thn cng, bc vng, sc giao 2 nhiu tuyn vng
cng, huyn cng quc cng, nhng long vng -Tng nh phm: nh chnh nh phm; ring
khng c ngch tng b trang sc giao long mt m

Tn tht c So vi tn tht c Chnh 1 kha kiu vng, -Chnh tam phm: 1 bc sn vng; 2 kha gin
phong hng cng, phong tc qun cng, tng hoa vng mt vng; pha trc pha sau u c 1 hoa vng; 2
huyn hu, hng m Phc u vung tam trc v mt sau; giao long vng; 2 cnh chun vin bc vng; 2
hu lc i 1 hoa vng pha phm hai cnh chun nh vng, 2 nhiu tuyn vng
sau, mt m lc trang vin bc vng -Tng tam phm: nh chnh tam phm; ring
sc giao long vng b 2 giao long vng
 Chnh 1 kha kiu bc, hoa 1 bc sn bc; 2 kha gin vng; pha trc v
bo mu quan lc. Quan ng phm mc
tng t vng mt trc v sau u 1 hoa vng; hai cnh chun vin bc B phc Vn nhn mu bo lam, o bo
314 phm sau, hai cnh chun vng; 2 nh bc; 2 nhiu tuyn bc 315
vin bc vng lm bng tru thu hoa. Quan lc phm
mc B phc Bch nhn mu ngc lam, o
Chnh 1 kha kiu bc, hoa 1 bc sn bc; 2 kha gin bc; pha trc v
tng bc mt trc v sau u 1 hoa bc; hai cnh chun vin bc lm bng tru bng khng thu hoa.
ng sau, hai cnh chun bc; 2 nh bc; 2 nhiu tuyn bc
Nam phng danh vt b kho chp:
phm vin bc bc
Mng bo l o i triu ca cc quan t
Chnh Hoa bc mt trc Pha trc, sau u c 1 hoa bc; hai cnh
tng v sau, hai cnh chun vin bc bc; 2 nh bc, 2 nhiu tuyn tam phm tr ln, thu hnh mng. Quan
lc chun vin bc bc bc chnh nht phm mu ng hng, tng
phm
nht phm mu xanh, chnh nh phm
Chnh Hoa bc trc sau
tng u 1 bng, hai mu bic, tng nh phm mu lc, chnh
tht cnh chun vin tam phm mu bo lam, tng tam phm
phm trn
Vng cn, li bc tc, ai, ht, mu ngc lam. Giao bo l o i triu ca
Hia. (BAVH).
quan t phm, thu hnh giao long. Lam
e. Bo phc
bo l o i triu ca quan ng phm v lc phm, o ca quan ng
Quy ch Triu phc m Phc u
phm thu thm hoa. Hoa bo l o vua ban cho cc v tam khi. Lc bo
kt hp vi B phc thi L Trung Hng
l o vua ban cho tin s.(1)
vn tip tc c p dng i vi cc
Ti Trung Quc, Mng bo xut
chc quan ng, lc phm triu Nguyn.
hin t thi Minh, c gi l Mng y
Bn cnh , quy ch triu Nguyn quy
hoc Mng phc, nu khng c vua
nh: cc quan nht, nh, tam phm mc
c ban, b quan khng c s dng.
Mng bo; quan t phm theo quy ch
Vo thi Thanh, Mng bo c s
nm 1804 mc Hoa bo, t nm 1845 tr
dng lm L phc cho hong t, thn
v sau i sang mc Giao bo.
vng v vn v b quan, phn nhiu
V sc phc ca o bo i Triu,
c dng trong cc dp l tt ln nh
theo Hi in, quy ch nm 1804 quy
l Vn Th, Tt Thng Nguyn v Tt
nh, o bo Triu phc dnh cho cc
Nguyn n v.v.
quan trn nht phm l Mng bo c
Khm nh i Thanh hi in
trn mu ta, t nht phm tr xung,
cho bit: Mng bo, mu lam v mu
cc mu xanh, lc, lam, en cho c ty Quan ng phm triu Nguyn mc
Triu phc. (nh: Nguyn Giang).
thch thanh cho c ty nghi s dng,
nghi. Quy ch ny c sa i vo nm
vin vng. Thn vng, qun vng
Mng bo rng my sng nc dnh cho
1845, lc ny cc quan t Tam phm tr ln u mc Mng bo, trong
thng dng o bo thu 9 hnh mng. Hong t triu Thanh (Thanh Hi in).
quan trn nht phm mc mu ta, quan chnh nht phm mc mu
c ng, tng nht phm mc mu thin thanh, chnh nh phm mc
mu cam bch, tng nh phm mc mu quan lc, chnh tam phm mc 1. (Vit) Nam phng danh vt b kho - Thng - Phc dng mn. Nguyn vn:
mu bo lam, tng tam phm mu ngc lam. Quan t phm mc Giao

 Bi lc tr xung ti cc tham kho b cc rng my,
quan vn v tam phm, sng nc ca Mng bo Trung
316 317
qun qun ngch ph, Quc giai on cui Minh u
phng quc tng qun, Thanh. Tuy nhin, Mng bo ca b
nht ng th v u dng quan triu Nguyn cn c thu
o bo thu 9 hnh mng hnh phng, k ln v ra, ng
bn mng. Quan vn v thi c tn gi l o bo T linh.
t, ng, lc phm, phng Nm 1832 vua Minh Mng ra ch
n tng qun, huyn d, xa nay o bo ca quan tam
qun ngch ph, nh ng phm tr ln, tc gi l o bo T
Mt trc v mt sau ca Mng bo v Hoa bo triu
Nguyn. (BAVH).
th v tr xung dng o linh, c hnh rng nm trong s
bo thu 8 hnh mng bn [] cch gi nh vy u khng ph
mng. Quan vn v tht, bt, cu phm, quan v nhp lu dng o bo hp, bi hnh phng, ln, ra ch
thu 5 hnh mng bn mng. Vt o, tn tht, thn vng tr xung u x l hnh ph ha m thi, ch cn gi
bn vt, b quan vn v ch x hai vt trc sau. Ti Vit Nam, quy ch
(1)
Mng bo l c.(1) Mt khc, trn Cc quan v mc Triu phc; Mt trong ba v
Mng bo c p dng lm Triu phc cho b quan vn v ng Trong lng o bo triu Nguyn cn bo Tam khi triu Nguyn mc o Hoa bo, ci
hoa bc trn m. Quan nh phm mc Mng
k t nm 1744 sau ci cch ca cha Nguyn Phc Khot. i Nam thc lu hai cnh l ph hu thi Minh bo v quan t phm mc Giao bo. (nh:
lc ghi: Cha [] chm chc ch cc i, nh Triu phc vn v. Vn (nh L Trung Hng cng m phng dng thc Albert Kahn).

t qun b n chim hu, hun o, v t chng dinh n cai i, m ny), ph kin ny khng xut hin trn o bo ca cc quan nh Thanh
sc vng bc, o dng Trung Quc.
Mng bo hoc gm Ngoi ra, khc vi quy ch o mo thi L Trung Hng, bt k
on theo cp bc. (2)
Cn phc, L phc, Triu phc hay Thng phc ca vua quan triu
L Qu n cng ghi Nguyn u phi vi thng - K y, mt dng xim o mc lt bn trong
nhn sau ci cch ny,
cc quan ng Trong
dng Mng bo thy
ba (hoa vn sng nc), m
mo dng vng bc
trang sc(3). 1. Mng bo (Bo tng Lch s Vit Nam. nh: TQ); 2. Mng
Mng bo triu bo mu ta ca quan Chnh nht phm v B phc Vn nhn
ca quan ng phm (Bo tng Qun s Php. nh: Nguyn Nh
Nguyn nhn chung an Huyn).

1. (Trung) Khm nh i Thanh hi in - Q.47. Nguyn vn:

Xim - thng ca quan triu Nguyn.


2. (Vit) i Nam thc lc. Tp I. Tr.153. 1. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.50. Nguyn vn: []
3. (Vit) Ph bin tp lc. Nguyn vn:
Hin vt Mng bo triu Nguyn (nh: Trnh Bch). Hin vt Mng bo (nh: Philippe Trng), Giao bo triu Nguyn (nh: Trnh Bch).
Hong phi sc phc t thin t ch tn tht (Nguyn Vn Nhn v nm 1902). nh 1: Hong nh 3: Hong thn mc Triu phc m Kim Quan - Mng bo. nh 4: Quan vn Chnh, Tng
, thi gim, hip lnh th v mc Triu phc. nh 2: Quan vn Chnh nht phm mc Triu phc Ng phm mc Triu phc Phc u - Hoa bo (Theo Hi in v t liu nh chp chng ti c,
Phc u - Mng bo. quan Ng phm khng mc Hoa bo m mc B phc. Hoa bo ch dnh cho cc v Tam khi).
 o bo. Tuy nhin, thng ca
vua quan nh Nguyn khc vi
322
loi thng Tin phc c s
dng ph bin thi L - Trn.
Thng thi L - Trn l loi
vy quy mu en gp np, cn
thng thi Nguyn gn vi o
cc tay c trn, ng thi c
thu ln v s hoa vn my B quan nh Nguyn trong bui chu Thng triu.
nc, c , bt bo v linh th. y c th coi l quy ch trang phc
mc lt c o ca ring triu Nguyn.
3. Thng phc
Quy ch Triu phc ca b quan nh Nguyn c t nh da
trn hai ngun tham kho chnh l quy ch B phc ca triu L Trung
Hng v kiu dng Mng bo ca Trung Quc giai on cui Minh u
Thanh. Cn trong quy ch Thng phc,
triu nh nh Nguyn tip tc kt hp quy
ch B phc ca triu L Trung Hng vi
quy ch B phc ca nh Minh, song song
vi vic t nh mt s dng m mo c
o nh m Vn Cng, H u, ng Pha,
Xun Thu v.v. c bit, B phc ca nh L
v nh Minh l dng o bo on lnh c
trn gn B t, nh Nguyn k tha mt
phn quy ch ny p dng lm Triu phc
cho cc quan ng, lc, tht phm. Quy ch
Thng phc li quy nh B T nh ln
o giao lnh.
3.1. Quy ch m mo
a. M Vn Cng
M Vn Cng l m Thng phc p
chnh l loi m c cc quan triu
Ty Sn s dng t th k XVIII qua li
323
ghi nhn ca vn thn Triu Tin Kim
Chnh Trung.
Kt hp vi m Vn Cng l B
phc giao lnh. Trong , o giao lnh
c lm bng sa, on, cc mu xanh,
lc, lam, en c ty nghi, ring c
o trng(1). B t dnh cho quan nht,
nh phm l Tin hc, B t ca quan
M ng Pha, Vn T Ti (BAVH). tam phm l Cm k. Thng, hia v
Quan vn Lc phm i m ng Pha.
tt tng t quy ch i triu.
b. M ng Pha, Vn T Ti, Phong Cn
Nam phng danh vt b kho ch r: M ng Pha l m Thng
triu ca quan vn lc phm tr ln, m Vn T Ti l m Thng triu
ca quan vn cu phm tr ln.(2) Theo Hi
in, m Vn T Ti cn c p dng lm
m Thng phc cho quan v tng tht phm,
tng bt phm v tng cu phm (quan v tht
phm tr xung ch t tng, khng t chnh).
Quan vn cha nhp lu c quy nh
i m Phong Cn. y cng chnh l m L
phc ca dn gian, p dng cho th dn sau khi
trn 20 tui, c tnh cht tng t nh loi m
Sa n dng ca triu L Trung Hng. Quc
s di bin ghi nhn, vn giai cha nhp lu,
s t thi , hoc mn i nhiu hc, hoc su
nm nhiu hc, m dng Phong Cn, trc sau
m thu hoa bc u mt ci, mc theo thn
phn mnh, o giao lnh, sa on cc sc xanh, Lm m T Ti (K thut
lc, lam, en, khng B t. Th dn cha lm ca ngi An Nam).

dng cho quan vn nht, nh, tam phm,

M Vn Cng (BAVH); Quan vn
mc Thng phc Vn Cng. (Vit trang sc ton bng vng, c hai di Anh
. (Vit) Nam phng danh vt b kho. Nguyn vn:
Nam qua tranh khc). sc hoa vng khm ngc chu(1). y cng 1. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78 - Vn v quan phc. Nguyn vn:

2. (Vit) Nam phng danh vt b kho. Nguyn vn:
1. (Vit) i Nam in l tot yu. Nguyn vn:
 quan: phm c vic nghi l gia hin nay c chiu hng khoa trng sc s, thiu nhng nt tinh t v
quan, m dng Phong Cn sc v in nh ca Phong Cn ngy xa.
324 325
en, khng thu hoa, o dng
o giao lnh mu thm, giy, tt QUY CH M THNG PHC
u mu en.(1) Loi m Phong CA B QUAN NH NGUYN (1804)
Cn trong dn gian vn c gi (theo Hi in)
l m T Ti. i Nam quc m
Cc chc sc trong lng mc L phc Phong Cn,
Quan vn Ng phm mc Thng triu phc t v nh ngha m T ti cng Quan vn Quan v
ng Pha. (nh: Albert Kahn). l mo gia l. Trn nht Vn Cng: sc ton vng, hai di H u: sc ton vng
phm thy anh trang sc kim hoa khm
ngc chu
Nht phm Vn Cng: sc ton vng H u

Nh phm Vn Cng H u
Tam phm Vn Cng H u
T phm ng Pha: Hoa vng mt trc Xun Thu
v sau, cc trang sc nh hoa,
giao long u dng bc
Ng phm ng Pha: pha trc 2 hoa bc, 2 Xun Thu
giao long bc; pha sau 1 hoa bc
2 giao long bc
Lc phm ng Pha: pha trc 1 hoa bc, 2 Xun Thu (Quan v tht
giao long bc; pha sau 1 hoa bc phm tr xung ch t
tng, khng t chnh)

Cc s t ti trng thi Nam nh i m Phong Cn, mc o giao lnh. Hi in Tht phm Vn T Ti: pha trc 1 hoa bc, Tng tht phm i Vn T
cho bit L phc ca dn gian l m Phong Cn kt hp vi o giao lnh, giy 2 giao long bc, pha sau 1 Ti nh vn chnh
tt u mu thm en. Quc S di bin cn ghi nhn m Phong Cn, o giao hoa bc tht phm
lnh l trang phc dng trong l Gia Quan dnh cho nam gii khi trn 20 tui. Bt phm Vn T Ti: pha trc 1 hoa bc, Tng bt phm i Vn T
sau 1 hoa bc Ti nh vn chnh bt phm
i chiu m t ca s liu vi t liu tranh nh u th k XX, c Cu phm Vn T Ti: pha trc 1 hoa bc Tng cu phm i Vn T
bit l hnh v m ng Pha, Vn T Ti ca Tn Tht Sa trong BAVH, c Ti nh chnh cu phm
th thy trn thc t m ng Pha, Vn T Ti, Phong Cn u c kiu Cha nhp Phong Cn: trc sau u sc 1 Anh Cn: trc sau u sc
dng tng t, c phn bit bi quy ch trang sc v mt s chi tit lu si bc 1 si bc

nh kt cu m. Do m Phong Cn, m T Ti c quy nh l m L

phc ca dn gian, nn vn c duy tr n ngy hm nay, vi t cch c. M H u
l m t s dng trong cc dp t l hi h ca ngi Vit. C iu, m t Vo thng 2 nm 2011, mt pho tng v tng lm bng t nung,
i m hnh u h, mc o gip c pht hin ti x Ph Thun,
huyn c Ph, tnh Qung Ngi(1). Loi m th hin trn pho tng
1. (Vit) Quc s di bin. 1821. Tp trung 16a. Nguyn vn:

1. Qung Ngi: Tm thy mt pho tng qu. Bo Si Gn Gii phng Online. Bi ng ngy 17/03/2011.
326

Cc v quan triu Nguyn i m H u, mc o Mng lan.

ny v c bn khp vi loi m trn tng ngi thi Trn. Cn lu

rng, vo nm 1756, cha Nguyn Phc Khot ln u tin lnh cho ba
qun tng s ng Trong i H Th u mo, hay cn gi l H u
mo(1). Gia hai loi m th hin trn hai pho tng khng ng i ny 1. Quan v tam phm i m H u, mc B phc;
2. M H u (BAVH).
cha chc c mi quan h k tha trc tip, song c th u c m
phng theo quy ch H quan thi ng. Tuy nhin, c th khng nh,
m H quan thi ng khng c mi lin h v mt to hnh vi m
H u (H u quan) ca cc v quan triu Nguyn.
Vo thi Nguyn, t nm 1804, m H u kt hp vi B phc K
ln, Bch trch, S t c quy nh l Thng phc ca quan v nht,
nh, tam phm. Nm 1845, vua Thiu Tr ph chun cho cc quan v gi
cc chc thng qun, cai qun cc qun doanh cho n chng ph
thng, thng ch, chng v, v y, ph v y u c i m H u
kt hp vi o Mng lan(2).
o Mng lan l dng o hp tay, c li thu sc tng t nh Mng
bo, song chiu di vt o v ng tay o u ngn hn Mng bo. Hi in
cho bit: Trc y o hp tay ca quan vin th v c gi l o Long B t K ln ca triu Nguyn (Silken threads- Thng phc m H u, B phc K ln, o
A History of Embroidery in China, Korea, Japan giao lnh c trng ca quan v nht phm triu
Chn, nh vy khng ph hp [] nay gi o hp tay l Mng lan mi phi. and Vietnam). Nguyn (Phc dng. Tranh: L Tip).
T ry khng c gi theo cch gi trc kia lm r danh phn.(3)

1. (Vit) D s lc bin i Vit quc Nguyn triu thc lc - Q.8. Tr.14. Nguyn vn:
1756
2. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.57. Nguyn vn:

3. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.50. Nguyn vn: []

 QUY CH M H U, O MNG LAN chng ti hin cha th lm r c thn phn ca nhng ngi i m
DNH CHO CC CHC QUAN CAI QUN, Xun Thu trong mt s bc nh ny. Song d sao, m Xun Thu cng
328 329
THNG QUN QUN DOANH V NM 1845 l mt loi m ht sc c bit bi tnh ph dng ca n trong cung
(theo Hi in) nh nh Nguyn, khi va l m L phc ca vua, ng thi cng l m
Thng phc ca mt s hong thn v cc chc quan nh.
M H u o Mng Lan ai
Thng qun Bc sn vng, mt Mu t n, may ai ca cc QUY CH THNG PHC XUN THU
trc v sau 3 hoa bng on ng sc quan v CA HONG THN V CC QUAN V T, NG,
vng, 2 giao long, 1 h gia kim, o song ming chnh
k, 2 c , 2 thy vn, khai, thng kp gia pha LC PHM TRIU NGUYN
bin bao, nhiu tuyn trc sc (theo Hi in)
vng, tr hoa;
Cai qun 1 hoa vng pha trc, Mu tng sm cc ming
cn li nh thng qun ng phi tri M Xun Thu o giao lnh B t Thng
Chng ph Thm 2 hnh ngn la Mu t n dng mai i
thng vng mi bc vng Hong Sc ton vng C o mu K ln Nn vng
xen k bc t, hong trng; o mu Bch trch
Thng ch, M sc vng Mu mc xch bc, khng thn, tn xanh, lc, lam, S t
chng v cn m tht c en cho c
phong ty tin
V y Lc bt 2 giao long Mu tng sm tc thn
vng mt trc m vng
Ph v y Lc bt 2 giao long Mu bo lam v - qun
vng v 1 hoa vng mu thin thanh vng
-thn
cng -
quc cng;
d. M Xun Thu
qun cng
M Xun Thu va l m L phc - huyn
cng;
ca Hong , va l m Thng phc hng
ca cc quan v t, ng, lc phm triu cng -
huyn hu
Nguyn. Theo Hi in, m Xun Thu - hng
kt hp vi B phc cn l Thng hu
phc ca cc v hong t, hong thn, Hong t, Sc vng bc an C o mu H Nn
tn tht c phong tc thn vng, thn xen, pha trc v trng; o mu
vng, tn sau u c 1 hoa xanh, lc, lam,
qun vng, thn cng, quc cng, k tht c vng, cc trang en cho c
phong sc hoa, giao long ty tin
ngoi hu, k ni hu, tr quc khanh,
k ngoi u dng cht
t quc khanh, phng quc khanh v.v. hu, k liu bc
ni hu,
Tuy nhin, da trn mt s t nh hu,
liu nh chp cung nh triu Nguyn M Xun Thu (BAVH); Ngi ng u tr quc
i Nhc cng i m Xun Thu. khanh
u th k XX, chng ti nhn thy i
tng s dng m Xun Thu cn c mt s ngch quan th v, thm
ch l i trng i nhc cng (?). Do thiu t liu vn t i chiu nn
 Hong t, Pha trc 2 hoa, C o mu Bo Nn
o giao lnh. Phm cp ca b quan ngoi vic c phn bit hnh
thn 2 giao long, pha trng; o mu dng B t cn c phn bit mu sc ca c o. Trong , c o giao
330 vng, tn sau 1 hoa, 2 giao xanh, lc, lam, 331
tht c long u bng en cho c lnh ca cc quan nht, nh, tam phm mu trng; c o ca cc chc
phong bc ty tin quan cn li c mu sc ging mu o gc. o mu xanh, lc, lam, en
t quc
khanh, c s dng ty nghi (1).
phng
quc
khanh, tr
quc y, t
quc y
Hong t, Pha trc 1 hoa, C o mu Hng Nn
thn 2 giao long, pha trng; o
vng, tn sau 1 hoa u mu xanh, lc,
tht c bng bc lam, en cho
phong c ty tin
phng
quc y,
tr quc
lang, t
quc lang,
phng
quc lang L b ng (Bo tng Lch s Vit Nam).
Cng t Pha trc v sau C o nh mu H Cng t: lc
c t u 1 hoa vng, o, xanh, lc, Quan:
phong trang sc hoa, lam, en cho
tc nh giao long cn li c ty tin
hu, quan u dng bc
v t
phm
Quan v Pha trc 2 hoa C o nh mu Bo Nn
ng phm bc, 2 giao long o, xanh, lc,
bc; pha sau 1 lam, en cho
hoa bc 2 giao c ty tin
long bc
Quan v Pha trc 1 hoa C o nh mu Hng Nn
lc phm bc, 2 giao long o, xanh, lc,
bc; pha sau 1 lam, en cho
hoa bc c ty tin

3.2. Quy ch B phc

Qua so snh quy ch B t ca nh Minh, nh L Trung Hng v
nh Nguyn, c th thy quy ch ca nh Nguyn v c bn k tha quy
ch ca nh L Trung Hng, ng thi tham kho thm mt phn quy
ch ca nh Minh. Tuy nhin dng o on lnh c trn trong quy ch
B phc ca nh Minh v nh L c nh Nguyn thay th bi dng
Mt s hin vt B t ca Vit Nam: 1. Bch nhn (Bo tng Dn tc hc
Vit Nam); 2. Vn nhn (Bo tng Qun s Php. nh: Nguyn Nh an
Huyn); 3. Kh xch (nh: Trnh Bch); 4.Tin hc (Silken threads-A His-
tory of Embroidery in China, Korea, Japan and Vietnam).
1. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Nguyn vn: []
[][][].
 NH THANH NH TRIU TIN LU CU
BNG SO SNH QUY CH B T
Quan vn Quan v Quan vn Quan v Quan vn
CA NH MINH, NH L TRUNG HNG V NH NGUYN
Nht phm Tin hc K ln Khng tc H bo Cm k
(theo Minh thc lc, Ton th v Hi in)
Nh phm Cm k S t Vn nhn H bo Cm k
Tam phm Khng tc Bo Bch nhn Hng bo Khng tc
Minh L Trung Hng Nguyn
T phm Vn nhn H Vn nhn
Hong t, vng cng: Hong t, hong Hong thi t:
K ln, Bch trch thn: K ln Rng 5 mng Ng phm Bch nhn Hng Sau nm
Hong t: Rng 4 1609, quan
mng Lc phm L t Bu ch ca Lu
Tht phm Cu khng
Quan vn Quan v Quan vn Quan Quan Quan v Kh xch T ngu
t cc
v vn
Bt phm Am thun T ngu chc quan
Nht Tin hc S t Tin hc S t Tin hc K ln v, qun
Cu phm Luyn tc Hi m i cng b
phm
Php quan: Gii tri gii th
Nh Cm k S t Tin hc S t Tin hc Bch
phm trch
Tam Khng H bo Cm k Bch Cm k S t Quan phc ca tin s
phm tc trch
(theo Hi in)
T phm Vn nhn H bo Khng H Khng H
tc tc
Tin s
Ng Bch Hng bi Vn nhn Bo Vn Bo Nm
phm nhn nhn nht nht gip, nh tam gip
gip, nht nh danh, gip
Lc phm L t Bu Bch Tng Bch Hng danh tam danh
nhn nhn (gu)
M o m nh Vn T Ti
Tht Kh xch Bu Bch Tng L t Bu 1822 quan lc
phm nhn Y phc phm 1 o giao lnh may bng sa Nam, 1 thng
may bng sa Nam, 1 vng cn, 1 hia
Bt phm Hong ly T ngu Bch Tng Kh xch Hi m
nhn M Sa (mt trc, sau u nh 1 hoa bc)

Cu Am thun Hi m Bch Tng Liu T ngu Y phc o m nh o bo lm bng sa, on trn (khng vn
phm nhn thun 1838 quan lc sc) mu lam, lc; B t thu hnh my;
phm thng lm bng sa Nam, ming B t thu 2
Php Gii tri bn cng thu hnh my; ai bc ng; vng
quan cn, hia.
Cha Luyn tc Khng dng B T M Sa (1 hoa Sa Sa Sa
nhp lu vng pha (1 hoa bc (pha (pha trc v
trc, 1 hoa m vng pha trc v sau u 1 hoa
bc pha sau; trc, 1 hoa sau u 1 bc, 2 cnh
BNG SO SNH QUY CH B T 1840 bc sn bc, bc pha sau, hoa bc, 2 khng vin
CA NH THANH, NH TRIU TIN V LU CU 2 cnh vin 2 cnh vin cnh vin bc)
bc) bc) bc)
(theo Thanh s co, Triu Tin oan Tng thc lc, Cu dng k s)
 III. TRANG PHC HU PHI
Y phc -o bo mu lc may bng on Bt ti i Hoa, ai bc on
Xch v, 1 ming pha trc bc bc m vng, 2 ming bc 335
bc, u mt i mi, 7 ming cn li bc ng, mt sng
en; thng may bng sa, on tn hoa mu lam; B t nn
thu Bch nhn; vng cn, hia, ht g
-Ring tam gip: B t nn thu L t; ai sc sng en,
3 ming bc bc, 7 ming bc ng; cn li nh trn
1847 B t Vn nhn Bch nhn L t

Quan phc ca c nhn (1807)

v v c nhn (1846)
Hoa vn loan thu trn o ca hu phi triu Nguyn (Bo tng M
thut Cung nh Hu. nh: TQ).
C nhn vn C nhn v
M Vn T Ti (mt trc, Vin nh (nh trn, Trc thi Nguyn, chim phng khng ch l hnh tng ngm v
sau u nh 1 hoa bc) mu en, lm bng vi hu phi, mnh ph m cn c p dng lm trang sc trn vt dng
lnh Nam trn, trc
sc hoa bc, trn nh ca vua cha, vng hu, nhm nh r trt t tn ti, nh nm 1254 thi
m 1 h l bc) vua Trn Thi Tng, quy ch xe kiu c quy nh: T tng tht n
Y phc o giao lnh may bng o M lm bng cc quan ng phm u c ngi kiu, nga, vng. Tng tht th dng
vi mu; Vng cn, hia. tru Nam i Hoa
(nm 1825 i cht liu mu bo lam lt vi
kiu u chim phng, sn son. Tng quc dng kiu u chim anh
may o thnh sa Nam lt ; B t trn mu v, lng ta sn en. Tam phm tr ln dng kiu u my, lng xanh.
la trng, thm 1 thng, xch tr; mt trc v
cn li nh nm 1807) sau o thu ch V C
T phm n lc phm kiu u bng(1) Quy ch L phc ca b quan
triu Trn quy nh ch c tc hu, minh t mi c mc o thu hnh
Phng c. Vo cui thi L s, Ton th cho bit Mc ng Dung s
Quan phc ca hc tr Quc T Gim (1823) v tn sinh (1827)
dng lng phng dt vng. Vo thi Nguyn, hnh tng chim Phng
cn c thu ln Triu phc ca cc quan trn T phm.
Hc tr Quc T Tn sinh
Gim Ring vi quy ch L phc hu cung, triu Nguyn quy nh: hong
M Vn T Ti (lm bng T Phng thi hu v hong hu i m Cu Phng, trng cng cha i m
la sa, mt trc nh 1 Bnh nh Tht Phng, cng cha i m Ng Phng. Cung tn thuc nht, nh,
hoa bc)
tam giai, ty theo cp bc c dng cc trang sc Kim c pht (b
Y phc o giao lnh may bng o giao lnh
sa Nam lt la trng; may bng tc bng vng) bt phng, tht phng, ng phng, tam phng v nht
thng la, qun mu sa Hoa tht phng. Vic hong thi hu, hong hu i m Cu Phng tng t
xanh; Vng cn, hia mu bo lam
lt la trng; vic hong i m Cu Long. Bi Cu, s 9, c coi l s dng ln
thng may nht, tng trng cho ngi v ch tn, vnh cu.
bng tru;
Vng cn, hia 1. Triu phc

1. (Vit) Ton th. Nguyn vn:

 1.1. Cu Phng tit trang sc no. Ring vi
M Cu Phng v miu t ca Hi in v ngch
336 337
Phng bo l Triu phc dnh cn, c th thy y l khn c
ring cho hong thi hu v nh bi tc ca hong hu,
hong hu triu Nguyn. Trong tng t vng cn ca vua quan
, m Cu Phng ca hong triu Nguyn.
hu c thn m lm bng lng Kt hp vi m Cu
m v, trm bi tc, sc 9 hnh Phng l Phng bo. Phng Bc sn vng trn m ca mnh ph. (nh: V
phng ma rng bay, khm 9 bo ca hong hu c lm Kim Lc).
chic lp bn, 1 ming vn hoa bng on Bt ti bng mu
b tc, 1 ming bc sn, 12 cnh Hong hu Nam Phng v Hong Thi hu vng chnh sc thu phng hoa trn, sng nc, lt tru phng hoa
oan Huy.
hoa bm, 4 a hoa sc trm, mu hoa xch. C o lm bng lnh bng Lai l mu tuyt bch.
2 cnh ht pha trc, 1 vng lin ng bc tc, Thng lm bng on Bt ti mu tuyt bch, thu Phng hoa
4 a hoa mai, 2 on hoa lin ng trang sc trn xen vng, lt di la Cao b mu tuyt bch. ai vng, thn ai
chn tc, 1 ming kha (kiu) pha sau, ph hnh dng tre thuc bc on Bt ti bng mu vng chnh sc, u sc vng,
phng vng nm mt on ch, 4 thn trm 18 ming vung dt u lt mt gng, khm hoa vng tr rng, 2 chic
bch kim u xu chui thy anh, 198 ht trn mc vng. Hi lm bng t lng v mu , vin thu phng. Bt tt lm
chu c nh, khm 235 ht pha l cc loi. Ngch bng lnh Nam bng mu tuyt bch.
cn lm bng on Bt ti mu thin thanh lt Phng bo ca hong thi
lnh i to mu vng chnh sc sc 4 khuyn hu c lm bng sa mt mu
vng, 1 di thao t. M Cu Phng dnh cho vng chnh sc, thu ch Th
hong thi hu tng t m ca hong hu, song ng sc gia kim, hoa, sng nc
vic xu ngc chu, khm gng c ty (1). xen k kt san h, gng, lt tru
i chiu t liu hnh nh xut hin hnh mu hoa xch v sa mt thu Hoa.
tng m Phng th hin trong cc bc nh Thng lm bng on Bt ti
hong hu, cng cha triu Nguyn, c th thy bng mu hoa xch thu phng
nh m trm bi tc m Cu Phng trong K , hoa, sng nc, xen k kt gng
thut ca ngi An Nam c phn khoa trng, Ty. Vin on gm nn vng lin
M Thi hu v Hong hu song kiu dng tng i thng nht. Tuy nhin ng, lt sa Hong qu, ni lin
dng trang sc chn phng Trm Phng bng vng thi cha Nguyn
ngm sch, vng ngc an chng ti cha th xc nh c cc khi nim vi o la trng. Bt tt lm bng
(nh: V Kim Lc).
xen, Hi ca Thi Hu, lp bn, vn hoa b tc v.v. c th ch nhng chi lnh bng mu tuyt bch, lt tru
Hong hu l hi thu Phng
(K thut ca ngi An Nam). bng mu hoa xch, vin c bt tt c hai dy thao lm bng tru bng
mu hoa xch. Hi lm bng t lng v mu vng chnh sc thu phng
1. (Vit) Hi in. Q.78. Tr.11 13. Nguyn vn: :
xen k kt san h, trn chu, gng ca Ty dng. (1)


[]: 1. (Vit) Hi in - Q.78. Tr.11-13. Nguyn vn: :
L phc ca Ph M, Cng cha v Hu phi triu Nguyn Tin cung Hong Thi hu, thn mu ca vua Khi nh
(Hong phi sc phc t thin t ch tn tht). (nh: Trnh Bch).
340 341

Phng trn o bo ca qu phi triu Nguyn (Nguyn

mu. Bo tng M thut Cung nh Hu).

QUY CH TRIU PHC CA CNG CHA TRIU NGUYN

NM 1808, 1824, 1833 V 1845
(theo Hi in)

Nm Ni Trng cng cha Cng cha

dung
M M Tht Phng, kha kiu vng nng 4 lng vng
1808
Y phc o bo n mu thu hnh loan phng; 1 chic ai; 1
chic vy i triu mu trng dt hnh phng ; 1 i hia,
1 i tt
Phng bo phc ch (Bu vt triu Nguyn); Hi thu rng phng triu
Nguyn (Bo tng M thut Cung nh Hu). M M Tht Phng, thn m lm
bng lng m v trm bi tc, sc
vng 85 tui, 2 chic kha kiu vng,
1 chic sc chn tc, 7 hnh phng
1.2. Tht Phng, Ng Phng bay, 4 ming c , 2 a hoa mai, 4
Theo quy ch Triu phc nm 1808, cc cng cha u c i a hoa cc, 7 a hoa mn, 4 trm
hoa, 1 vng sc quanh nh u, 1
m Tht Phng, mc Phng bo mu sm. T nm 1845 tr v vng sc quanh vin m, u nh
sau, ch c trng cng cha tip tc s dng m Tht Phng, cc v vi mt ming tuyn kha tr hnh
1824 phng, 2 ming kha bn, 1 b
cng cha cn li ch c i m Ng Phng, mc Phng bo mu trm bch kim xu 120 ht gi chu
hoa xch. Cc loi Phng bo dnh cho cng cha u c may bng khm 230 ht pha l
on Bt ti, thu hoa vn phng , kt hp vi thng mu tuyt bch, Y phc o bo may bng on Bt ti bng
mu hoa xch thu hnh phng ;
i hi thu phng . (1)
thng may bng on Bt ti mu
tuyt bch thu hnh phng ng
sc xen kim tuyn; ai: thn ai lm
bng tre thuc bc on Bt ti bng
mu hoa xch, sc 18 ming cc hnh
[]: vung dt bng vng, b mt tr c
, vn phng lt mt knh; 1 i
Kim c pht; 1 i tt may bng
lnh Bt ti mu tuyt bch; 1 i hi
1. (Vit) Hi in. Q.78. Tr.33-34. Nguyn vn:[] lm bng t Xch v thu phng
[]
 1833 M M Tht Phng
hong hu, cng cha hay cung tn u vn khn vnh, mc o Nht
Bnh, chng t quy ch trang phc ca hu phi triu Nguyn n thi
Y phc o bo n may bng 343
342 vua ng Khnh, Khi nh vn c sa i.
on Bt ti mu
hoa xch thu hnh
Khn vnh, cn gi khn vnh dy, l mt kh vi di hn chc
phng ng sc gia
kim; 1 thng n may mt, kh rng 30cm, c vn gp np thnh hnh ch Nhn gia
bng on Bt ti mu
trn, sau qun nhiu vng quanh u, c khi ln ti 20, 30 vng. Loi
tuyt bch thu hnh
phng ng sc xen khn ny vo cui thi Nguyn c kt hp vi o Nht Bnh, p dng
kim tuyn; 1 ai vng,
1 i hia, tt
lm Thng phc ca hong thi hu, hong hu v Triu phc ca
mnh ph, cung tn, phn ln c mu xanh lam. Sau ny, khn vnh
1845 M M Ng Phng, 1
chic mt ngch sc dn c ph bin trong dn gian, c ph n Vit Nam s dng trong
vng, bch kim, trn cc dp l nghi trang trng.
chu, san h
Y phc o bo n may bng
on Bt ti mu
hoa xch thu hnh
phng ng sc xen
kim tuyn; ai sc
vng v bch kim

2. Thng phc
Theo Hi in, o Nht Bnh l Triu
phc dnh cho cung tn nht, nh, tam, t giai
v l Thng phc ca hong hu, cng cha.
o Nht Bnh c nguyn mu l dng o Phi
Hong Thi hu oan Huy, Trng cng cha con vua ng Khnh, Hong hu Nam Phng.
Phong thi Minh, l loi o x c, c dng i
khm, c o to bn to thnh hnh ch nht
trc ngc, di c c di vi buc hai vt
o. Thng phc Nht Bnh c t nh vo
nm 1807 thi vua Gia Long v c duy tr cho
n cui thi Nguyn. Song quy ch m mo
kt hp vi loi trang phc ny khng n nh.
Nh quy ch nm 1807 quy nh t hong hu Cng cha triu Nguyn.
n cung tn t giai nht lot s dng Kim c
pht phi vi o Nht Bnh, n nm 1846 thi vua Thiu Tr, Kim c
pht c thay th bng mt loi th sc c tn Kim phng. Cung tn
tam giai, t giai v ng giai cn c phn bit bi s lng trm ci.
Kiu dng c th ca Kim c pht v Kim phng, chng ti cha
Phc dng li trang im ca hu phi triu Nguyn trong dp i l; Trng cng cha con vua Dc c.
th kho c. Song t liu tranh nh u th k XX cho thy bt k (nh: Trnh Bch).
 IV. TRANG PHC QUN I
T thi cha
344 345
Nguyn, trang phc
qun i v dn gian
ng Trong tri qua
mt cuc bin cch
ln. n thi Nguyn,
chng ta khng cn
thy s xut hin ca
b qun trang Gip tr,
Binh lnh thi Minh Mng
thay vo , quan vin (Vit Nam qua tranh khc Php).
ban v phn ng i
o Nht Bnh thu Phng , Loan (Bo tng M thut Cung nh Hu). m H u, mc Mng Lan. Binh lnh cng khng cn ci trn ng
kh nh thi L Trung Hng.
Nm 1835, Thi nh Lan
QUY CH L PHC CA HU PHI NM 1807
m t: Lnh cp dch tnh gi
(theo Hi in)
l tnh binh, i nn na, nn
nh ch che u, qut sn
Ni Hong hu Cng cha Cung tn Cung tn Cung tn
dung nh giai tam giai t giai mu vng, chm cm lng g,
M 2 chic Cu 1 chic Tht 1 chic Ng 1 chic 1 chic o dng loi dt len mu ,
long Kim c phng phng Tam Nht vin mu lc, ng tay mu lc.
pht, 1 chic Kim c Kim c phng phng
Cu phng pht, 12 pht, 10 Kim c Kim c Lnh ph, huyn gi l ph
Kim c trm hoa trm hoa pht, 8 pht, 8 binh, huyn binh, i nn qut
pht, 8 trm trm hoa trm hoa
phng sn mu lc, mu en, cm
Y 1 o bo lm 1 o Nht 1 o Nht 1 o Nht 1 o Nht lng g, o dng vi en, vin
phc bng sa si Bnh may Bnh lm Bnh lm Bnh lm , ng tay mu .(1) Nhng
vng thu bng sa bng sa bng sa bng sa
20 hnh rng si , mu xch mu tm mu tm dng m t ca Thi nh Lan
phng, loan, thu hnh o thu chnh nht, 1 hon ton khp vi nhng bc
tr, 1 thng phng loan , 1 sc thu thng
lm bng t thng lm phng , lm bng v binh lnh Vit Nam do mt
Bt ti mu bng t Bt 1 thng t Bt ti s ngi phng Ty khc ha.
trng thu ti trng thu lm bng trng thu 1. Nn K Mao, lnh kinh k i; 2. Nn K binh;
rng phng loan t Bt ti loan 3. Nn lnh Tp; 4. i Binh; 5. o lnh An Nam; 6. Ngoi ra, qua tranh nh u th
trng thu Lnh Tp kh xanh. (K thut ca ngi An Nam). k XX vi nhng hnh v m t
loan
(Thiu Tr 6-1846) Cung tn nht nh
giai: m Kim phng u c 3 bc sn,
ring nht giai 8 phng, nh giai 7 1. (Trung) Hi Nam tp tr - Vit Nam k lc. Nguyn vn:
phng; tam giai trn bi tc ci trm
phng; t giai, ng giai trn bi tc
khng ci trm t s phn bit
 kh chi tit trang phc
TRANG PHC QUN I TRIU NGUYN
ca mt s hng qun
346 (theo Qun lc Vit Nam di cc triu i phong kin, bn sao ca EFEO)
binh nh lnh cm v,
lnh k binh hong gia,
lnh th v, lnh thy
qun, lnh pho th,
lnh bn sng thn
cng, lnh hu trong o th v (Bo tng M thut Cung nh Hu), o lnh, o ca
cung, lnh hu n v.v. i nghi v (Silken threads-A History of Embroidery in China,
Korea, Japan and Vietnam).
do Vin Vin ng Bc
C (EFEO) thc hin, c th thy binh lnh triu Nguyn tuyt i a s
u i nn, i t. S phn bit gia cc hng binh lnh ch yu nm
kiu dng nn mo. Ring o mc phn nhiu l loi o song khai(1), ci
khuy, x vt trc v sau, vai o c vin my bao quanh, gi l vn kin.
Ngoi ra, t sau khi chim ng Nam k, Bc k, ngi Php thnh
lp n v qun bn x ph tr cho qun chnh quy ca Php, gi l
lnh Tp. Lnh Tp cn c gi l lnh kh , lnh kh xanh, bi b
qun trang c trng ca hng lnh ny l nn dp, qun o chn, c
bit l di tht lng buc bng c mt u bung xung che phn h
b, trng tng t nh chic kh.

Chu bn triu Nguyn

(Thnh Thi quyn s 43, t s 8 9)

Nin i: Ngy 16 thng 3 nhun nm Thnh Thi th 10

(1898)
Ni dung: Th v x tu xin may qun o cho binh lnh h
gi. Vua Thnh Thi ch thn thit k kiu o nn mi v
chun cho may mc.
Chu ph: 1. Loi nn qun trang ny trng cha c
nh, o qun trang th khng tin ci nga. Nay chun cho
lm theo kiu mi; 2. Sng nn dng st nm bc. Nn
dng mu en; 3. o qun trang di mt thc hai tc
nm phn, mu lc, vin . Bn trong mc o vi trng. ai
lng dng mu lc; 4. Nn ca v li cng chiu theo kiu
ny. Ty theo chc tc m nh (tn chc) vo trc nn.
Hnh trn trc ngc o qun trang (ca v li) chiu theo
hnh B t m thu vo.

1. i Nam quc m t v nh ngha: o song khai l o x vt trc, vt sau.

 V. TRANG PHC DN GIAN mc qun trng. Nhng con nh t t
1. Y phc gia gio khng bao gi ly Ty, d Ty
348 349
Triu Nguyn l triu i qun ch cui c giu, sang trng n my. Cho nn
cng ca Vit Nam, triu i lu li nhiu bn qun trng l t t co lm ngh
n tng mc nh v nhng nh hng lu ly Ty. Tri li, t gia th k XIX, n
di trong quan nim ca ngi Vit hin i b x Hu kh gi i cht u mc
v phong tc tp qun ca ng cha, trong qun trng, h l v con nhng cng
c quan nim v trang phc. Tuy nhin, chc cc s thuc ta khm s, cc c
vn hin o m ca mi mt triu i u quan thuc su b ca triu nh []
c s k tha, bin d so vi quy ch o m Np sng rnh ri cnh v, cho nn y
Thy kha mc u phc (Hnh nh H
ca triu i lin k. Khong cch gia cc phc sang trng qu phi. Cn dn lao Ni); Thiu n mc o di sau khi
triu i cng xa, s bin d theo cng ln. ng n mc lem luc th khng mc cch tn.

Ngay trang phc trong dn gian, mc d c qun trng. Tuy nhin sau qun
tnh bo th v t bin cch nh trang phc C ng i khn xp, o the. trng dn d c dng vi n gii,
cung nh, song so vi thi L, Trn, trang (Hnh nh H Ni). ban u cn rt r, sau khp ni u
phc dn gian thi L, Nguyn cng c a chung.(1) Nh vy s kt hp gia
nhiu thay i. c bit phi k n vic ph bin o di c ng ci o di nm thn v qun mu trng
khuy, ph b o giao lnh trong dn gian mang tnh cng p di thi hn ch xut hin t u th k XX tr
vua Minh Mng. v sau, trc ngi Vit hu ht u
Loi trang phc ph bin nht trong cung nh v dn gian Vit mc qun mu thm hoc mu .
Nam thi Nguyn hin nhin l b qun chn o cht. Song theo ghi C iu, sau nhng phong tro ci
nhn ca Thi nh Lan th vo nm 1835 thi vua Minh Mng, nam lng nu cao tinh thn on tuyt lc
gii ngi Vit Trung, Nam k thng mc o cht mu en ci khuy hu, hng ti vn minh t cui th k
hp tay kt hp vi qun nhiu . ng cho bit (h) u dng la XIX, song song vi vic ct b bi t,
en vn u, mc o en ng tay hp, qun may bng lnh , i chn rng trng, khng t nam n ngi
t. Quan vin Vit Nam ra ngoi cng u i t, o khng phn ma Vit, c bit l gii tr thc Ty hc
nng ma lnh, ma ng vn mc o la mng. Ngi sang hay dng dn i sang mc trang phc chu u.
hai mu lam, en, vn khn quanh u cng nh vy, qun u mu Trang phc ca n gii lc ny cng
1. V chng nng dn o ti, vy p;
.(1) Ring loi qun chn o cht ca n gii, theo Phan K Bnh, tri qua nhng t bin cch v kiu 2. ng chu n xin; 3.ng gi mc o
trong khong nhng nm 1910-1915, qun th phn nhiu mc qun dng nhm lc bt s lng thng ca cc (loi o c vt trc khp chm
ln gi na vt bn phi, nm khuy
si, qun lnh thm, i khi cng c ngi mc qun nhiu . (2)
Nht loi o truyn thng trc y. Nhng ci khuyt tt vi vi hai di bi cho
Thanh ghi li khong t 1910 tr i c nhng me Ty bo dn bt u ci cch kiu dng o di n tiu biu buc pha di, khong nm 1970 cn
t ngi Thun Qung a mc. t l
phi k n o di Le Mur ca ha s qu thi. Tr. 218); 4. Ngi n b quy
Ct Tng nm 1930 v o di L Ph gnh, cht khn vung i nn ba tm.
1. (Trung) Hi Nam tp trc. Nguyn vn:

2. Vit Nam phong tc. Tr. 324. 1. t l qu thi. Tr. 212.
 ca ha s L Ph nm 1934. ng Ct
Tng pht biu trn t Phong ha
350 351
v chic o di n kiu c cho bit: Y
phc ca cc bn gi, ti xem thy c
nhiu iu bt tin m li khng c v
chi l m thut. Tuy rng vi nm gn
y cng c mt vi phn sa i [...]
chng qua ch my ci mu sc sc
s, my th hng l nc ngoi [...]
cn th vn kiu o le xe y, vn ci Ph n Gia nh bi tc; Tr con vn khn; Soi gng i khn; Bi tc.
(K thut ca ngi An Nam).
qun lng thng en ngm y. Hoc
gi cng c ngi a mc qun trng dng cc loi tht lng ln nh, tht li trc bng, thot khi nhng
song tic rng s vn rt t [...] Cn cm lnh kht khe di triu vua Minh Mng.
sa i dn: trc ht phi hp vi kh Ngoi ra, c mt s kin cho rng vo u th k XIX, trong gii
hu x ta, vi thi tit cc ma, vi phong lu nho nh s dng loi o b ba, loi o c ngun gc t
cng vic, vi khun kh, mc thc o Penang Malaysia, ni c tc ngi B Ba sinh sng(1). Da vo mt
ca thn hnh mi bn. Sau na phi s bc ha trong An Nam quc giang phiu lu phong tc t sinh
gn gng, gin d, mnh m v c v do ngi Nht Bn v vo nm 1794 ti vng ng Trong, c th thy
m thut v lch s. Chng ti ng ngay t cui th k XVIII, loi o vt ngn khng bu, x gia, ci bng
tnh vi quan im ca b Nguyn cc xut hin ti vng ng Trong Vit Nam. Nhiu kh nng y
Ngi ng Trong nm 1794 c v trong
An Nam quc giang phiu lu phong tc t Th Chn Qunh khi cho rng ng chnh l tin thn ca loi o b ba. Tuy
sinh . (T Lan cung cp). Ct Tng ch l mt mt xch trong nhin, ngun gc ca loi o ny c phi
chui di nhng ngi khng li xut pht t o Pengnang Malaysia hay
tn tui nhng cng gp phn ci sa, gip cho ci o di mang hnh khng, hin cha c t liu no c th
dng hin nay, cng nhn nh ng Ct Tng ch o Vit Nam le xe, khng nh c.
lng thng, khng m thut, nhng ti li thy o t thn, o giao lnh 2. Kiu tc
cng nh o di u p c, mi ci mt v. Nhn tm ty thch, kh m Sau mt lot sc lnh cm s dng
tranh ci.(1) cc loi m Tin phc triu L ban b
i vi tng lp dn ngho, s gia Trn Trng Kim cho bit: Cch vo thi vua Minh Mng trong khong t
n mc th ch c vi nu, ngi ngho kh ch c manh o cnh v nm 1828 n nm 1842, nam gii ngi
thng th ng ci kh, c i u mi mc ci qun vi di n u gi. Vit trong ton quc hu ht u bi tc
Ngi sung tc mi c vi ci o nu en v vi ci qun hoc nhum vn khn theo phong tc ng Trong.
nu, hoc trng . Ph n Bc k vn mc o t thn, vy p, vn s
(2)
Ban u, cc loi khn lt, khn nhiu,
C gi i khn xp khong nm 1945.
khn thm ca n ng c qun ri, (Hnh nh H Ni).

1. o di xa nay. (http://chimviet.free.fr/quehuong/chquynh/chqyn_aodaixuanay.htm).
2. Vit Nam s lc. Tr.537. 1. Din o b ba n khch Ty. Dn theo Tp ch Hn Vit. Tr.31.
 v sau c qun xp np bng nan giang, qut
u n, cht theo kiu ch sn du trn mt cho
352 353
Nht , hoc ch Nhn khi thm nc ma
gia trn. Khong nm gi l nn sn. Nn lp
1920, 1930, ngi Vit mi bng l da rt mng,
ch ra loi khn xp, khu nh, quai la bch, i
dn lin nhng vnh np trng ra v ho hoa
li, ch vic t chp ln phong nh. Quan liu
M Ni. (Vit Nam qua tranh khc Php; K thut ca u cho nhanh chng v a i nn lng, lng
ngi An Nam). Xe si. (nh: Albert Kahn).
thun tin. (1)
cnh chim lp hai t,
Trong khi , ph n ng Ngoi vn vn khn thm, lt, nhiu, trn nh c chp bng bc chm tr, hay bng i mi vnh vng vnh
i thm khn vung m qu bng vi nu hoc xuyn, bt chp lnh bc.(1) Loi nn b ca n b m Phan K Bnh nhc ti ch cc loi nn
cm n b khng c dng vi, la ngn qun u, khng c ba tm, nn Ngh, nn quai thao v.v. c s dng thng xuyn vo
i khn vung. Khc vi ph n ng Ngoi, ti Trung k, Nam k, u th k XX.
n b bi tc bt khn vung, khng vn khn nh ngi Bc , n (2)

b ng Trong a u trn vi bi tc, hoc bt u bng mt khn

vung gp cho i, buc nt xung di cm(3).
Ngoi ra, ngi cao tui thi L
Nguyn cn i mt loi m, gi l m Ni,
vn l i ca gii tng l. Vit Nam
t in nm 1954 nh ngha: M Ni, m
ca ng gi i, pha sau c dim che kn
c tai v gy. Loi m ny ngay t thi L
Trung Hng c Alexandre de Rhodes
ghi nhn: M Ni, m ca cc v s [] M
che tai di ti vai. Nhng ngi khc cng
dng m ny trong tri lnh.(4)
V nn i, Phan K Bnh cho bit
n ng thng i nn da, nn sn, nn Ph n thi Nguyn vn tc ui
g bng la trng, i nn Ngh,
lng; n b thng i nn b, nn lng
mc ym trng, o nm thn c Mt gia nh thng lu Hu. (BAVH).
cho(5). Nht Thanh gii thch: Nn an ng ci khuy.

1. t l qu thi. Tr.223.
2. Vit Nam phong tc. Tr.324.
3. t l qu thi. Tr.223.
4. T in Vit - B - La. Tr. 171.
5. Vit Nam phong tc. Tr.324. 1. t l qu thi. Tr.224.
 LI KT

Trc khi c s phn nh nghim ngt v a chnh tr, cc cng

ng dn c chung sng trn cng khu vc a l thng c s giao lu,
chia s, nh hng ln nhau v ngn ng, phong tc v.v., mt cch t
nhin. Vi tnh cht hn dung, vic xc nh phn li thun chng ca
bt k nn vn ha no cng cn nhiu thi gian v nhng chng l khoa
hc lin ngnh.
Vn minh Trung Quc khng t nhin c sn; dung np trong
chc chn c khng t thnh t vn ha mang ngun gc ng Di, Bch
Vit. Song k t khi b my chnh quyn phong kin Trung Quc hnh
thnh, i km vi chnh sch ng ha dng H bin di, vn minh
Trung Quc tng bc thm nhp v gy nh hng su rng ti cc
vng t, quc gia xung quanh n, trong c Vit Nam, Triu Tin v
Nht Bn. Trong khi Nht Bn vi v tr a l quc o, nhiu ln phi
cc on khin ng s ch ng hc tp, du nhp vn minh ng,
Vit Nam v Triu Tin li c quc th gn lin vi i lc Trung Quc,
u tng hng chu nhng chnh sch ng ha vn ha. Sau khi ginh
c c lp, vi quan nim vn minh Trung Quc l thc o tin b,
Vit Nam v Triu Tin li nhiu ln ch ng m phng in chng
vn hin ca triu nh Trung Quc. Chnh v vy, trong nhiu trng
hp, nhng nt vn ha tng nh ch c Vit Nam, Triu Tin, Nht
Bn li thng tm thy s tng ng hoc tng cn ca n ti Trung
Quc.
Khong 100 nm tr li y, sau khi ch ngha quc gia, t tng
dn tc c dp ln mnh, Nht Bn tha nhn v t ho cho rng,
h hc tp vn minh Trung Hoa, ng thi y ln mt tm cao mi,
cn Hn Quc v Vit Nam li din ra cc cuc tranh ci v vn bn
quyn ca cc thnh t vn ha vn c coi l c ngun gc Trung
Hoa. C th im qua vic ng Kim nh, H Vn Thy chng minh
Nho gio mang ngun gc Vit, chn ni Thi Sn tng l a bn c
tr ca dn tc Vit, Kinh Dch l pht minh ca ngi Lc Vit v.v.,
tng t trng hp ng Ban Mun Ki, Kang Sang Won chng minh ch
Hn l pht minh ca ngi Hn Quc, sau dy ln mt lot cc bi
vit tuyn b ngi Hn l ch th sng to ra ng y, Kinh Dch, la
bn, thm ch Khng T, Tn Trung Sn l ngi Hn Quc v.v. Nhng
nghin cu c s dng ny, u chu s chi phi ca tinh thn dn tc,
cn nng tnh t bin, suy din, thiu chng c khoa hc xc tn. Bn
cnh , ng gc trung tm soi chiu cc nc xung quanh,
khng t hc gi Trung Quc li c tm thi, ging iu ca nc ln, coi
vn ha Vit Nam, Triu Tin, Nht Bn ch n gin l s khc x ca
vn minh Trung Hoa, thiu ci nhn tn trng, khch quan i vi vn
ha, lch s ca cc quc gia ny. y l hai thi cc oan trong vic
nghin cu, i snh vn ha, cn c nhn nhn v ph bnh mt cch
nghim tc.
c xc nh gii hn nghin cu nm trong giai on 1009 - 1945,
giai on t nhiu cn s liu, hin vt n chng, Ngn nm o m th
hin mt gc nhn lch s, t tng, m thut Vit Nam thng qua dng
chy bin thin ca vn ha trang phc; ng thi lm r nhng im
tng ng v khc bit gia trang phc Vit Nam so vi trang phc ca
cc nc ng vn, c bit l Trung Quc. T kt qu nghin cu ny,
cch n mc, li sng ca ngi Vit trong khong 1000 nm tr li y
bc u sng t. y s l tin cho vic nghin cu phong tc, li
sng ca ngi Vit trong qu kh xa xa hn, nhm tng bc tm ra
ci li bn sc trong vn ha Vit Nam.
Mi thi u c gi tr quan, thm m quan ring. Mi li khen
ch, nh gi ch mang tnh nht thi. Cun sach bn c cm trn tay
c vit nn bng s tn trong s tht cua ngan nm ao mu ngi Vit,
khng c nh gi ng sai, hay d. Vi t cch l tc gi, ti hy vng
bn c c ci nhn cng tm, bnh tnh i vi vn ha trang phc Vit
Nam ni ring, vn ha cung nh Vit Nam ni chung, c bit i vi
nhng thnh t vn ha Trung Hoa dung cha trong vn ha Vit.
H Ni, cui xun nm Qu T 2013.
Trn Quang c
 Ph lc

QUY CH TRIU PHC CA B QUAN

NH L TRUNG HNG NM 1661
(theo L triu thin chnh in l v
L triu chiu lnh thin chnh, k hiu A.257)

Chc tc Chu vua

M o B t ai, Thao
Hong t, vng t Dng Ta K ln ai k
c phong quc cng ng thch (
qu) bc
vng
Hong t, vng t Phc Ta Tam thi: ai bc
Hong phong chc tam thi, u K ln; vng
tam thiu gia phong Tam thiu:
t, qun cng Bch trch
Hong t, vng t Phc S t ai t gic
phong t hu c u bc bc 357
vng gia phong qun cng
t Hong t, vng t Phc S t ai t gic
phong c ng u bc bc
tri, c kim s gia
phong qun cng
Hong t, vng t Nn S t Dy thao
phong hiu im, sn kp, xu
c, tham c, lnh bc, ngc, cm
gia phong qun cng nh kim
hng
mao
Hong t, vng t Sa H Dy thao
phong qun cng kp, xu
ngc
Hong t, vng t Lng o
cha c phong Cn the
en en
 Nht phm Phc S t ai sng
Bt phm v cc chc Phc Xanh Tiu liu ai sng
u t bt bc
ng tri ph hm tht u en tru bc
Tng nht phm Phc S t ai sng phm; tri huyn, tri thau
Quan
u t bt bc chu hm tng tht
phm, t ban, hun
v Chnh nh phm, tng Phc S t ai i o hm cu phm
nh phm gia phong u mi
qun cng Cu phm Phc Xanh Tiu liu ai sng
u en tru bc
Chnh nh phm, tng Nn Tng Dy thao thau
nh phm gia phong bc n, eo
tc hu nh kim
hng QUY CH TRIU PHC CA B QUAN
mao
NH L TRUNG HNG NM 1721
Tam phm, t phm Nn Tng Dy thao
gia phong tc hu sn n, eo (theo Loi ch)
son kim
nh
Chu vua
hng
mao Chc tc M o B t ai, Thao
Ng, lc, tht phm Nn Dy thao Hong t, vng t Phc Ta Tam thi: -ai nh
sn n, eo Hong lm cc chc tam u K ln; k thch
son kim thi, tam thiu m Tam thiu: bt vng
nh t, c tc qun cng Bch trch. -Hia, bt
358 hng Thu bng tt 359
mao kim tuyn
Quan Nht phm Phc Ta Tin hc ai sng Cc chc tam thi, Phc -Tam thi: -ai nh
u t bc bc tam thiu c tc u Bch trch; sng t bt
vng
vn qun cng Tam thiu: bc
Nh phm; quan Phc Tin hc ai sng
t, S t -Hia, bt
ng s hm chnh tam u Ng s: t bc bc
tt
phm Gii tri
Hong t, vng t Phc S t -ai nh
Tam phm Phc Cm k ai i quan lm cc chc t hu u sng t bt
u mi
c m c tc bc
v qun cng
T phm; quan th c Phc Khng tc ai i -Hia, bt
kim ng s hm u Ng s: mi tt
ng phm Gii tri
Cc chc t hu Phc S t -ai nh
Ng phm; quan th Phc Khng tc ai i c m c tc u sng t bt
th, th ch hm lc u hnh, mi qun cng bc
phm; quan hnh, Ng s: Gii -Hia, bt
ng s hm tht phm tri tt

Lc phm v lc khoa Phc Xanh Vn nhn ai k lam Hong t, vng Phc S t -ai nh
cp s trung hm u hng t lm cc chc u sng t bt
chnh tht phm c ng tri, c bc
thim s m c tc -Hia, bt
Tht phm Phc Xanh Bch hc ai tc qun cng tt
u hng
 Cc chc l, trn Nn o trc -Dy thao
in qun tng sn son, lnh, n.
qun, lc s hiu y, chp mu -Chc trn
thin h, qun lnh, nh in cm
ph l, chnh hng kim v
Cc chc c Phc S t -ai nh y, ph thin mao di ng.
ng tri, c u i mi h, trung y, lang -Cn li
thim s m c tc bt bc tng, ph qun cm roi v
qun cng -Hia, bt lnh, bch h, kim
tt ht, ph trung y,
Hong t, vng Nn o trc S t -Dy thao ph lang tng, ph
t lm cc chc chp lnh, lt kp xu qun lnh, t hu
hiu kim, c, bc, ton ht ngc tin hu lang tng,
lnh, tham c, nh thn, -eo y, chnh v y,
v s m c tc hng mu gm ph ht, t hu
qun cng mao tin hu ph lang
tng, ph v y, v
hiu kim, Nn o trc H bo -Dy thao y, ph y, ph
c, lnh, tham chp lnh, lt kp trung y
c, v s m c bc, ton - eo
tc qun cng nh thn, gm Cai i, ph cai i, M o -Cm
hng mu chnh i trng, Thanh Thanh gm
mao ph i trng Ct Ct
d trng coi qun khng
Hong t, vng t Sa, c o trc H bo -Dy thao lnh m cha c lt
c tc qun cng ch en lnh, kp xu chc tc
t ni mu ht ngc
360 -eo Cc chc lm vic Khi c l Biu (trc khi dng l mng ln 361
gm ngoi nh tng vua cha, chn ngy lm l dng biu), l Bi
binh s, tng binh (nhng ngy l chnh n, l sinh nht ca
Cc chc cai qun, Sa o trc Tng -Dy thao ng tri, tng binh vua cha, cc nha mn c lm l bi vng)
cai i c tc qun lnh, kp thim s
cng mu - eo Phc C Tng -ai nh
gm u tc: g k lam
o ; hng bt
Cc chc hiu Nn o trc Tng -Dy thao cha thau.
im, c, tham chp lnh, lt Thu bng n. c -Hia, tt
c, ph c, bc, ton t - eo tc: bng l
lnh th v, t hu nh thn, gm o
hiu im m c hng mu xanh,
tc hu mao lc
Cc chc ch huy Nn sn o trc Tng -Dy thao Quan Tam thi, tam thiu Phc Ta Tin hc -ai nh
s, ch huy ng son lnh, n. eo u sng t bt
tri, ch huy thim mu gm bc.
s, ch huy s, ch Hia, bt tt
huy ng tri, ch vn
huy thim s, tng Thng th, ng s Gii Tri -Thng - ai nh
tri, ng tng tri, th: Tin sng t bt
thim tng tri m c hc. Ng bc.
tc hu s: Gii tri Hia, bt tt
T hu th lang Phc Sa k - ai nh
u i mi
bt bc.
Hia, bt tt
 Cc chc tha ch, Phc -C Khng - ai nh Cc chc tu son, -Phc Dng Thun ai nh
ph ng s, tha u. tc: tc. i mi gio th, hc chnh, u mu am. (Liu sng tru
chnh s, i hc . bt bc. cp mn s, ng xanh thun) bt thau.
s, t tu, th c, -Ng s: -Cha -Ng s: Hia, bt tt tri ph, t v, chiu mu Hia, bt tt
thim Gii Tri c Gii tri gim, in th, tr en
tc: trung, thng phn,
xanh, lc s, in th, i
lc. chiu, gim b, t
thin gim tha,
Cc chc t khanh, Phc Nh Khng -ai nh t mc hu mc,
tham chnh, ph u. - trn tc. - g k lam cp mn ph s,
don, hc s, t hnh: hnh: Gii hng bt tri huyn, tri chu,
nghip, th ging, Gii Tri tri thau. huyn tha, ng
th th, hiu th, Hia, bt tt quan chnh, chnh
khoa, th ch, t, ng tri chu,
hnh quan, in b, t
ban, hun o
Cc chc cp s, -Cp s: Nh -Cp s: ai nh
hin s Phc trn Vn nhn. g k lam Cc thi y vin i -Phc -o Thun ai nh
u. -Hin s: hng. s, vin s, ng y, u mu am (Liu sng tru
-Hin Gii tri Hia, bt tt nghim bin, lng xanh, thun) bt thau.
s: Gii y chnh, khn chn, mu -Hia, bt
Tri lng y ph, thi en tt
quan th chnh,
Cc chc hn lm -Hn Nh Hn lm: ai nh ng vn nh nhc
362 hiu l, hiu tho, lm: trn Bch nhn. g k lam 363
th chnh, tha d
gim st ng s cc Phc Cai o: hng. cc cc chnh, gio
o u. Gii Tri Hia, bt tt phng ty chnh, t
-Cai o: thn lang
Gii Tri
Cc chc trng Sa n o
Cc chc thng -Thng th y phc cng nh Hn lm hiu s, bnh s, thng dng Thanh
chnh s, thim s, l. Nu thng chnh s c d bng vng th y s, chnh ph t Ct c
kinh lch phc nh t khanh v khoa ngh, ph hiu y, lt
Cc chc thng -Phc Dng Anh v -ai nh th c, ging d, v
chnh s, tham u. mu (vt) sng tru y, tri b, s, tri
ngh, lang trung, -Ring xanh, bt thau. s, in s, ch b,
thiu thim s, hin hin mu -Hia, bt x mc, ngc tha,
ph, thiu khanh, ph: lc tt cc hng thuc vin
thiu don, trung Gii Tri tp lu
th x nhn, t Nhng ngi tn Phc -C Vn nhn ai nh
thin lnh, ph tht thc th cc u tc: i mi
on s, vin ngoi chc lng chnh, mu bt bc.
lang, thng chnh lng ph, lng tha ; -Hia, bt
tha, tri ph v cha tt
nhng chc t tc
khanh, thiu khanh mu
lm vic ngoi xanh,
lc
 Ni Cc chc ni gim, Phc Mu H bo ai nh Nh Phc ai Tin Phc ai Bch
tng thi gim, u i mi phm u sng t hc u sng trch
quan thi gim, chng bt bc. sc sc bc sc t sc
gim m c tc -Hia, bt bc bc lnh bc bc
qun cng tt l bc
lnh
Cc chc thi gim, Phc C Vn nhn -ai nh l
thim thi gim, u tc: i mi
tham chng gim, mu bt thau. Tam Phc ai i Cm Phc ai S t
tham tri gim, ng ; -Hia, bt phm u mi sc k u i
tri gim cha tt sc bc sc mi
tc: bc bc sc
mu bc
lc
T Phc ai i Khng Lc Nn Tht H Lc
Cc chc t hu Phc C Bch nhn -ai nh phm u mi sc tc bc di
thi gim, t hu u tc: g k lam sc thau ai
gim tha, t hu mu hng bt ng bc mu
im ; thau. -Hia, thau on ta
cha bt tt thm
tc:
mu Ng Phc ai i Vn Lc Nn Tht Bo Lc
xanh, phm u mi sc nhn bc di
lc, sc thau ai
en ng bc mu
thau on ta
Cc chc phng Sa o thm
364 ng, gim b Thanh 365
Ct Lc Phc ai tc Bch Xanh Nn Tht Tng Xanh
c lt, phm u hng nhn son di
khng tr sc vin ai
ph xung ng thau mu
hu thau bc xanh
on
thm
QUY CH TRIU PHC CA B QUAN Php quan i m Gii Tri, B t Gii tri
NH L TRUNG HNG NM 1725
(theo Cng mc) QUY CH TH PHC CHU CHA CA B QUAN
NH L TRUNG HNG NM 1721
Phm Quan vn Quan v (theo Loi ch)
cp
M ai B t Phc M ai B t Phc
sc sc Chu cha
Nht Phc ai Tin Phc ai Bch Chc tc M o ai, Thao
phm u sng t hc u sng trch
sc sc bc sc t sc Hong t, vng t Sa, c o Thanh Ct, Dy thao kp
bc bc lnh bc bc lm cc chc tam thi, ch en t c ph hu xu ht ngc v
l bc tam thiu m c tc ni sc bc
lnh qun cng
l
 Cc chc tam thi, Sa o Thanh Ct Dy thao kp Cc chc l, trn M Thanh o Thanh Ct
Hong tam thiu c tc qun c ph hu xu ht ngc v in qun tng qun, Ct c lt
cng sc bc lc s hiu y, thin
t, h, qun lnh, ph
Hong t, vng t Sa, c o Thanh Ct Dy thao kp l, chnh y, ph
lm cc chc t hu ch en t c ph hu xu ht ngc v thin h, trung y,
vng c m c tc qun ni sc bc lang tng, ph qun
cng lnh, bch h, ht,
t, ph trung y, ph lang
Sa o Thanh Ct Dy thao kp tng, ph qun lnh,
Cc chc t hu c c ph hu xu ht ngc v t hu tin hu lang
m c tc qun cng sc bc tng, y, chnh
quan
Hong t, vng t Sa, c o Thanh Ct Dy thao kp v y, ph ht, t
v lm cc chc c ch en t c ph hu xu ht ngc v hu tin hu ph lang
ng tri, c thim ni sc bc tng, ph v y, v
s m c tc qun y, ph y, ph
cng trung y

Cc chc c ng Sa o Thanh Ct Dy thao kp Cai i, ph cai i, M Thanh o Thanh Ct Cm gm

tri, c thim s m c ph hu xu ht ngc v chnh i trng, ph Ct khng lt
c tc qun cng sc bc i trng d trng
coi qun lnh m cha
Hong t, vng t Sa, c o Thanh Ct -Dy thao kp c chc tc
lm cc chc hiu ch en t c ph hu xu ht ngc.
kim, c, lnh, ni -Cm gm Cc chc lm vic Sa o Thanh Ct Dy thao kp
tham c, v s m ngoi nh tng c ph hu
c tc qun cng binh s, tng binh
366 ng tri, tng binh 367
Cc chc hiu kim, Sa o Thanh Ct -Dy thao kp. thim s
c, lnh, tham -Cm gm
c, v s m c Quan Sa o Thanh Ct Dy thao kp
tc qun cng c ph hu xu ht ngc v
Tam thi, tam thiu sc bc
Sa, c o trc lnh, -Dy thao kp
Hong t, vng t c ch en t mu , B t xu ht ngc. vn Sa o Thanh Ct Dy thao kp
tc qun cng ni h bo -eo gm c ph hu xu ht ngc v
Thng th, ng s sc bc
Cc chc cai qun, cai Sa o Thanh Ct -Dy thao kp.
i c tc qun cng c ph hu -Cm gm Sa o Thanh Ct Dy thao kp
T hu th lang c ph hu xu ht ngc
Cc chc hiu im, Sa o Thanh Ct -Dy thao n.
c, tham c, ph c lt, khng -Cm gm Cc chc tha ch, ph Sa o Thanh Ct Dy thao kp
c, lnh th v, t c ph hu ng s, tha chnh c ph hu xu ht ngc
hu hiu im m c s, i hc s, t tu,
tc hu. th c, thim

Cc chc ch huy s, Sa o Thanh Ct -Dy thao n. Cc chc t khanh, Sa o Thanh Ct Dy thao kp

ch huy ng tri, c lt -Cm gm tham chnh, ph don, c ph hu
ch huy thim s, ch hc s, t nghip, th
huy s, ch huy ng ging, th th, hiu
tri, ch huy thim s, th, khoa, th ch,
tng tri, ng tng tri, hnh
thim tng tri m c Cc chc cp s, hin Sa o Thanh Ct Dy thao kp
tc hu s c ph hu
 Cc chc trng s, Sa n o Thanh Ct
bnh s, thng s, dng c lt
chnh ph t nghi,
Cc chc hn lm hiu Sa o Thanh Ct Dy thao kp ph hiu y, th c,
l, hiu tho, gim st c ph hu ging d, v y, tri b,
ng s cc o s, tri s, in s,
ch b, x mc, ngc
-Thng th y phc cng nh hn lm hiu l. tha, v cc hng
Cc chc thng chnh -Nu thng chnh s c d bng vng th y phc thuc vin tp lu
s, thim s, kinh lch nh t khanh v khoa
Ni Nhng ngi tn tht Sa o Thanh Ct Dy thao kp
Cc chc thng chnh Sa o Thanh Ct Dy thao n thc th cc chc lng c ph hu xu ht ngc
s, tham ngh, lang c lt, khng chnh, lng ph, lng
trung, thiu thim s, c ph hu tha
hin ph, thiu khanh, quan
thiu don, trung Cc chc ni gim, Sa o Thanh Ct Dy thao kp
th x nhn, t thin tng thi gim, thi c ph hu xu ht ngc
lnh, ph on s, gim, chng gim m
vin ngoi lang, thng c tc qun cng
chnh tha, tri ph v
Cc chc thi gim, Sa o Thanh Ct Dy thao kp
nhng chc t khanh,
thim thi gim, tham c ph hu
thiu khanh lm vic
chng gim, tham tri
ngoi
gim, ng tri gim
Cc chc tu son, gio Sa o Thanh Ct Dy thao n
Cc chc t hu thi Sa o Thanh Ct Dy thao n
th, hc chnh, cp c lt
gim, t hu gim c lt, khng
mn s, ng tri ph,
368 tha, t hu im c ph hu
t v, chiu gim, in 369
th, tr trung, thng Sa o Thanh Ct
phn, lc s, in th, Cc chc phng ng, c lt, khng
i chiu, gim b, gim b c ph hu
t thin gim tha,
t mc hu mc, cp
mn ph s, tri huyn,
tri chu, huyn tha, Chc tc o m
ng quan chnh, chnh Cc chc x nhn, n li, -Khi chu hu lm vic th dng m Sa n
t, ng tri chu, tng thn li, lnh s, ni dng, o Thanh Ct c lt, khng c ph hu
quan, in b, t ban, th t th t cai ty, cai hp, th
hun o hp tr ln, th ni vn chc
Cc thi y vin i s, Sa o Thanh Ct th t nho sinh trng thc,
vin s, ng y, nghim c lt gim sinh tr ln
bin, lng y chnh, Trung th snh, cc chc -Khi chu hu lm vic th dng m Thanh Ct,
khn chn, lng y hoa vn hc sinh, n li, x o Thanh Ct khng lt
ph, thi quan th nhn, tng thn li, lnh s,
chnh, ng vn nh th t, ni th t; cc vn - trong lng th cho dng m Sa, o Thanh
nhc th chnh, tha nha mn th cc chc li, Ct c lt, dy thao n; o mc thng cho
d cc cc chnh, gio li, in li, thng li dng cc th the, l, vi, la
phng ty chnh, t
thn lang Nhng nho sinh trng thc, -Dng m Sa n dng, o Thanh Ct vi o
gim sinh, nho sinh, x chnh, ngn lt, khng c ph hu, dy thao n
x s, x t, sinh , quan
vin t tn, nhiu nam
 Hong t, vng t cha c -Khi vo hu ni cung th dng m Lng
chc tc Cn, o sa en
-Thng phc dng cc th gm vc c hoa
mu
Chnh Phc u -Mng Nh trn Phc u -Nh -Nh
Hong t, vng t t chc t -Khi vo hu dng m Thanh Ct, o Thanh Ct
tng trn, m bo c vung ban vn; ban
hu c, c tc qun cng c ph hu v khng lt.
nht ca quan trn, thng vn;
tr ln -Thng phc dng cc th gm vc c hoa
phm chnh cc mu thu K ai tr
mu.
nht xanh, lc, ln K ln
Hong t, vng t t chc -Khi vo hu dng m Thanh Ct, o Thanh Ct phm nh lam, en
c ng tri c tc qun cng c ph hu v c lt trn. m ty nghi
tr xung ca quan
tng nht -Thng
Con chu cc quan vn v, -Khi vo hu lm vic th con chu quan vn phm 1 thu Tin
c phong m tr ln dng m Sa n dng, con chu quan v kha kiu hc xen
dng m Thanh Ct, u dng o Thanh Ct c vng, 2 hoa, mu
lt ht vng
cao 5
Dn gian th t cc chc sc -Y phc u dng cc th gai, the, vi, la,
phn, cn
tr xung khng c lt
li nh
trn

QUY CH TRIU PHC CA B QUAN Chnh Phc u Nh trn -ai: sc Phc u Nh -Nh
tng trn, 1 ton vng, vung ban vn; ban
NH NGUYN NM 1804 nh kha kiu mt trc thng vn;
(theo Hi in) phm vng, hoa v sau ai thu ai tr
370 vng u tr Bch Bch 371
mt trc hnh Tin trch trch
Phm Ban vn Ban v v sau, hc; cn
trt hai cnh li, tr
M Y, ai, hia, M Y, ai, chun hnh hoa,
thng, tt thng, hia vin bc nn
B t B t vng, sc
giao long
Trn Phc u -Mng -ai: sc Phc u -Nh -Nh
vng
nht trn, 1 bo c ton vng, vung ban vn; ban
phm kha kiu trn, mu mt trc 1 kha thng vn; Chnh Phc u Nh trn ai: sc Phc u Nh Nh
(Tn vng, 2 ta v sau u kiu thu K ai tr tng trn, 1 ton vung ban vn; ban
nhn ht vng tr mt vng, 2 ln K ln tam kha kiu vng, b thng vn
ph cao 6 -Thng hnh rng ht vng phm vng, mt vng thu S
tn phn; thu Tin bn mng; cao 5 hoa vng khng t
nhn ngch hc xen cn li tr phn; cn mt chm tr,
lnh) tng hoa, mu Tin hc, li nh trc v nn
vng, hoa nn quan vn mt sau;
vng hai cnh
mt trc -Hia u chun
v sau, vung vin bc
hai cnh mu en vng
chun
vin bc -Bt tt
vng, sc vin gm
giao long
vng
 Chnh Phc u -Hoa bo ai: mt Phc u -Chnh Nh
Tng trn, 1 c trn i mi, vung t phm: ban
t kha kiu (thu hai vin o Giao vn
Chnh Phc u Nh -ai: mt
phm bc, hoa hoa), di ca ba bo
tng trn, hoa trn, B sng en
vng cc mu ming i (thu
tht bc trc t thu bc bc,
mt trc xanh, lc, mi pha giao
phm sau u L t; nn
v sau, lam, en trc bc long) c
1 bng, tng tht - Bt tt:
hai cnh ty nghi vng, cn trn
hai cnh phm B mu thi
chun li u bc
chun t thu lc
vin bc -Thng: bc, nn -Tng t
vin trn L t nn
vng lm bng phm:
xanh
sa, on; o Hoa
mu bo
-Thng:
xanh, lc (thu
lm bng
ty nghi; hoa) c
sa, on,
nn hoa trn,
mu
trn, mu cc mu
xanh, lc
, thu xanh,
ty nghi;
Khng lc, lam,
phn
tc vin en ty
mu
gm nghi
thi lc
Chnh Phc u -o bo ai: mt Phc u -o bo Nh hai bn
372 tng trn, 1 c trn i mi vung nh ban ban thng
373
ng kha kiu lm bng bc bc, vn ng vn khng
phm bc, hoa sa, on, nn phm, thu hoa
bc nh B B t trn.
mt trc t thu thu Bo
v sau, Vn
hai cnh nhn, -Thng QUY CH TRIU PHC CA B QUAN VN V
chun nn ; thu Bo
vin bc cc mu TRIU NGUYN NM 1845
bc xanh, lc, (theo Hi in)
lam, en
ty nghi
Ban vn Ban v
Chnh Phc u Nh trn, ai: ba Phc u -o bo Nh
tng trn, hoa B t ming vung nh ban ban Quan vn i m Phc u trn, quan v i m Phc u vung,
lc bc thu Bch pha trc vn lc vn thn ai u dng tre thuc (thc sa trc) bc on mu xch v.
phm mt trc nhn mt i phm,
v sau, mi, cn B t M Y, thng, ai, hia, tt M Y, ai,
hai cnh li l sng thu B t thng, hia
chun en, u Hng B t
vin bc bc bc,
bc nn ai -Thng
thu
Hng
 Phc u -o bo mu -ai: tng Phc u Nh quan vn
trn, 1 bc sn c ng, may cng 18 vung nht phm; Phc u -o bo nh -ai: Ming Phc u -Nh Nh
vng, 1 ngch bng on ming ai (Tuy thng thu hnh trn, trang sc chnh nh vung pha vung, quan quan
tng vng Bt ti thu pha trc Hi in K ln nh chnh nh phm, ring trc v trang sc vn vn
cao 4 phn, hnh T linh, sau, phi khng ghi phm, ring dng mu hai ming nh quan tng nh tng
pha ngoi t ng sc gia tri, vung chp c m b trang quan lc hnh qu vn tng phm nh
tr hnh giao vng. di, dt; 2 th, song sc giao long -Thng nh trm hai nh phm -Thng phm
long; 2 kha -Thng mc bc; tranh nh mt cnh quan chnh bn phi thu
gin vng; lm bng sa ming th k XX chun nh phm tri u hnh
pha trc 1 mt, t mu chnh gia cho thy, bc t kim, Bch
hoa vng, 2 hoa xch ng pha trc quy ch 14 ming trch
giao long vng; sc gia vng, v hai m Phc cn li bc
pha sau 2 hoa thu hnh ming hnh u nm bc, b mt
vng; hai cnh Tin hc qu trm 1845 ca khm i
chun vin hai bn quan v mi
bc vng, b phi tri tng t
mt sc giao u khm nh quan Phc u -o bo nh -ai: 18 Phc u -Nh Nh
long bn ngc vng, tr vn, song trn, 1 bc sn quan nh ming u vung, quan quan
bng vng, u hnh hoa, s gia vng, 2 kha phm. Ring bc bc, trang sc vn vn
cnh chun cc ming gim nh gin vng, pha dng mu mt khm nh quan chnh chnh
u sc vng; cn li b quy ch trc pha sau bo lam i mi vn chnh tam tam
2 nh vng, mt khm nm 1804) u c 1 hoa -Thng nh tam phm phm phm
2 nhiu tuyn i mi, vng, 2 giao quan nh -Thng
vng u bc bc long vng, 2 phm, ring thu
cnh chun dng mu hnh S
Phc u trn, -o bo mu ai: 13 Phc u vin bc vng, xch mc, t
374 trang sc nh thin thanh ming pha vung, 2 nh vng, thu hnh 375
chnh cht dng on trc v hai trang 2 nhiu tuyn Cm k
phm, ring Bt ti thu bn phi sc nh vng
ngch tng hnh T linh, tri u bc quan vn
cao 3 phn, t ng sc gia t kim; 5 tng nht Phc u trn, -o bo nh ai: Nh Phc u Nh Nh
tr hnh hoa; vng ming pha phm trang sc nh chnh tam quan chnh vung, quan quan
mt m khng -Thng nh sau bc chnh tam phm, ring tam phm, trang sc vn tng vn
c ngc chu; quan chnh bc; mt ai phm, ring dng mu mt khm nh quan tam tng
u hai cnh nht phm khm i b 2 giao long ngc lam sng Bch vn tng phm; tam
chun khng mi vng -Thng nh hoa tam phm Thng phm
sc vng quan chnh thu S
tam phm t
Phc u -o bo mu -ai: trong Phc u -Nh -Nh
trn, 1 bc sn cam bch, 13 ming vung, quan quan Phc u -o bo dng ai: 13 Phc u Nh Nh
vng; 2 kha dng on pha trc trang sc vn vn trn, 1 bc sn tru thu ming pha vung, quan quan
gin vng; Bt ti thu T v hai bn nh quan chnh chnh bc, 2 kha giao long trc v trang sc vn t vn t
pha trc 1 linh, t ng phi tri vn chnh nh nh gin vng, mu quan hai bn nh quan phm; phm
hoa vng, 2 sc gia vng. c 7 ming nh phm phm phm pha trc v lc, t ng tri phi vn t Thng
giao long vng; -Thng nh nm trong -Thng sau u 1 hoa sc gia vng. bc bc; 5 phm thu
pha sau 2 hoa quan chnh bc t kim, thu vng, hai cnh -Thng ming pha hnh H
vng; hai cnh nht phm 6 ming bc hnh chun vin lm bng sa sau bc
chun vin bc, so le; 5 Bch bc vng, 2 mt, t mu ng; tt c
bc vng, b ming pha trch nh bc, 2 bo lam ng u khm
mt sc giao sau bc bc; nhiu tuyn sc gia vng, sng hoa
long vng; 2 tt c u bc thu hnh (hoa gic)
nh vng, 2 khm i Khng tc
nhiu tuyn mi ln b
vng mt
 QUY CH TRIU PHC CA MT S V HONG T, HONG THN,
TN THT NH NGUYN NM 1845
(theo Hi in)

M Y, thng, B t ai
Phc u trn, -o bo dng -ai: 9 Phc u -Nh Nh
trang sc nh tru thu hoa ming pha vung, quan quan Tn tht Phc u vung, -o bo T linh -ai ming chnh
quan t phm, mu bo lam, trc v trang sc vn t vn t c 1 bc sn vng, 1 mu chn lan lm gia pha trc
nhng cc t ng sc gia hai bn tri nh quan phm phm phong ngch tng vng bng on Bt ti v 2 ming hnh
trang sc ton vng. phi bc vn ng -B t tc thn cao 4 phn tr hnh ng sc gia kim. dt hai bn phi
bng bc -Thng lm bc v ng phm thu vng, giao long, 2 kha gin -Thng lm bng tri, b mt u
bng sa mt, xen k; 3 hnh Bo qun vng, pha trc 1 sa mt mu hoa tr hnh hoa khm
t mu quan ming pha vng hoa vng, 2 giao long xch ng sc gia vng, cn li b
lc ng sc sau bc vng, pha sau 2 hoa kim, thu hnh K mt khm mai i
gia vng ng; tt c vng. Hai cnh chun ln mi, u bc vng
-B t dng u khm vin bc vng, b mt t kim
on mu sng hoa sc giao long vng
xch v, thu vn ngc chu, u
Vn nhn cnh chun u sc
vng, 2 nh vng, 2
Phc u trn, -o bo dng -ai: ming nhiu tuyn vng
pha trc, sau tru bng chnh gia
u c 1 hoa mu ngc pha trc Tn tht Phc u vung, 1 -o bo T linh -ai 13 ming pha
376 bc; hai cnh lam bc bc, c bc sn vng, 1 ngch mu chn lan lm trc v hai bn 377
chun vin -Thng 9 ming phong tc tng vng cao 3 bng on Bt ti phi tri bc vng
bc bc; 2 nh dng sa T cn li bc thn cng, phn tr hnh hoa, 2 ng sc gia kim. t kim, 5 ming
bc, 2 nhiu mu quan ng; tt c quc cng kha gin vng, pha -Thng lm bng pha sau bc bc,
tuyn bc lc. u khm trc 1 hoa vng, 2 sa mt mu hoa b mt u khm
-B t dng sng hoa giao long vng, pha xch ng sc gia mai i mi
on mu sau 2 hoa vng, 2 cnh kim, thu hnh K
xch v, thu chun vin bc vng, ln
hnh Bch 2 giao long vng, 2
nhn nh vng, 2 nhiu
tuyn vng
ng s, ph ng s v cc chc khoa
o chng n vn cp cho m Gii Tri c Tn tht Phc u vung, 1 -o bo T linh ai 13 ming
hai sng bc th (nay) i 2 kha gin vng c bc sn vng, 2 kha mu t n lm pha trc v hai
thnh 2 giao long bng vng v bc phong tc gin vng, pha trc bng on Bt ti bn phi tri c 7
qun cng, 1 hoa vng, 2 giao ng sc gia kim ming bc vng
huyn long vng, pha sau -Thng lm bng t kim, 6 ming
cng 2 hoa vng, 2 cnh sa mt mu hoa bc bc, xen k. 5
chun vin bc vng, xch ng sc gia ming pha sau bc
b mt sc giao long kim, thu Bch bc, b mt u
vng, 2 nh vng, 2 trch khm mai i mi
nhiu tuyn vng
 QUY CH THNG PHC CA B QUAN
NH NGUYN
(theo Hi in)

Tn tht Phc u vung, -o bo T linh ai 18 ming u

Quan vn Quan v Y, thng
c so vi tn tht c mu xch bc bc
phong phong tc qun -Thng lm bng M B t M B t
hng cng, m Phc u sa mt mu mc
cng, vung lc i 1 hoa xch thu S t Trn Vn Cng: Tin hc, H u: K ln -o giao lnh
huyn hu, vng pha sau, mt nht sc ton bng hoa sc ton c trng, lm
hng hu m lc trang sc phm vng, hai di bng vng bng sa, on,
giao long vng thy anh trang mu xanh,
sc kim hoa lc, lam, en
Hong t, Phc u vung, 1 -o Giao bo mu ai 13 ming pha khm ngc ty nghi
thn bc sn bc, 2 kha ging chu lm trc v hai bn chu -Thng nn
vng, tn gin vng, trc sau bng tru ng sc phi tri bc bc. 5 dt vng
tht c 1 hoa vng, hai cnh gia kim. ming pha sau bc
phong k chun vin bc bc, -Thng lm bng ng, b mt u Nht Vn Cng: Tin hc H u K ln Nh trn
ngoi hu, 2 nh bc, 2 nhiu sa mt mu quan khm hoa gic phm sc ton bng
k ni hu, tuyn bc lc thu H. vng
nh hu,
Nh Vn Cng Tin hc H u Bch Nh trn
tr quc
phm trch
khanh
Tam Vn Cng Cm k H u S t Nh trn
Hong t, Phc u vung,1 bc -o Hoa bo mu ai 9 ming pha
phm
378 thn sn bc, 2 kha gin tng lm bng trc v hai bn 379
vng, tn bc, trc sau 1 hoa tru ng sc gia phi tri bc bc T ng Pha: hoa Khng tc Xun Thu H -o giao lnh,
tht c bc, hai cnh chun kim v ng xen k, 3 phm vng mt mu c o
phong vin bc bc, 2 nh -Thng lm bng ming pha sau bc trc v sau, nh mu o,
t quc bc, 2 nhiu tuyn sa T hoa mu ng, b mt u cc trang sc lm bng sa,
khanh, bc quan lc khm hoa gic nh ph nh on; cc mu
phng -B t lm bng t hoa, giao long xanh, lc, lam,
quc v ti , thu Bo u dng bc en cho ty
khanh, tr nghi
quc y, t -Thng nn
quc y
Hong t, Phc u vung, -o bo mu ai 1 ming chnh Ng ng Pha: Vn nhn Xun Thu Bo Nh trn
thn trc sau 1 hoa bc, tng m thu gia pha trc bc phm pha trc 2
vng, tn hai cnh chun vin 2 hoa , lm bng bc, 9 ming cn hoa bc, 2 giao
tht c bc bc, 2 nh bc, on Bt ti li bc ng, b long bc, pha
phong 2 nhiu tuyn bc -Thng lm bng mt u khm hoa sau 1 hoa bc
phng sa T hoa mu gic 2 giao long bc
quc y, quan lc.
tr quc -B t lm bng t Lc ng Pha: Bch nhn Xun Thu Hng Nh trn
lang, t v ty , thu gu phm pha trc 1 (Quan v
quc lang, hoa bc, 2 giao t tht
phng long bc; pha phm tr
quc lang sau 1 hoa bc xung ch
t tng,
khng t
chnh)
 TIU T IN
TRANG PHC VIT NAM

Anh Cn: m ca quan v cha nhp nhn, nho s v n ng thng dn thi

Tht Vn T Ti: L t Tng tht Bu -o nh trn lu triu Nguyn. L Trung Hng, lm bng on mu huyn
phm pha trc 1 (chnh: nn phm i tng: -Thng: lm o b ba: loi o vt ngn khng bu, x hoc sa the, nh phng, trn may cnh hoa
hoa bc, 2 giao , tng: Vn T Ti nn bng sa, on,
long bc, pha nn xanh) nh vn xanh mu xanh, lc gia, ci bng cc, ph bin Nam B. cc my lp m ln nhau, quanh m gp
sau 1 hoa bc chnh tht ty nghi; phn o cht: Xem o (di) nm thn. np, di dy buc ngang trn, bung phn
phm mu thi
o Cu: mt trong nhng loi o trnh tha ra sau gy v hai tai c dim r, gn
lc hai bn
thng khng rt ca gii trung lu, qu tc. Vit Nam, tng t m Bao nh.
thu hoa trn o Cu bn ngoi l da, bn trong l lng, Bnh nh: loi m nh phng ni
Bt Vn T Ti: Kh xch Tng bt Hi m -o giao lnh c lm bng lng co (H Cu) hoc chung. Vo thi L Trung Hng, danh xng
phm pha trc 1 phm i mu gc bng lng chn (iu Cu). Bnh nh c ch loi m t ca vua cha
hoa bc, sau 1 Vn T Ti sa, on; mu
hoa bc nh vn xanh, lc, lam, o (di) nm thn: ch loi o may bng v cc quan. n thi Nguyn, t nm 1816,
chnh bt en cho ty nm kh vi (vt trc hai kh, vt sau hai danh xng ny ch loi m i triu ca cc
phm nghi. kh, thn bn phi di ra mt kh ngn hong t, hong thn c ban tc thn
380 -Thng: Nh
trn na), phn bit vi cc dng o c may vng, qun vng, thn cng, qun cng.
bng bn kh vi nh o t thn, o giao Bnh Thin: 1. tn gi khc ca m
Cu Vn T Ti: Liu thun Tng bu T Nh trn
phm pha trc 1 nn xanh phm i ngu lnh. Min. 2. tn gi khc ca loi m Triu
hoa bc Vn T Ti Bn long: ch hoa vn rng trn (rng ) phc Bnh nh ca hong t, hong thn
nh chnh
thu trn o bo. c ban tc thn vng, qun vng,
cu phm
Bao Cn: m Thng triu ca vng, thn cng, qun cng triu Nguyn. Xem:
Cha Phong Cn: Tuy Cn: o giao lnh
nhp trc sau u trc sau mu gc bng hu tc ngn thi Trn. Min, Bnh nh.
lu sc 1 si bc u sc 1 sa, on; mu Bao nh: m Tin phc ca cc v vn B phc: ch Bo phc gn B t.
si bc xanh, lc, lam, nhn, quan li qu tc thi L Trung Hng, B t: cn gi l Hung bi, ch vung vi
en cho ty
nghi kiu dng trn, nh phng, cao khong thu hnh chim th gn trc ngc v sau
mt thc, lm bng lng ui nga, nn lng o bo, dng phn bit phm cp
cn gi l M v Bao nh. ca b quan. Quy ch trang phc Thng
Bo phc: hay o bo, ch loi trang triu Hung bi - B t nh hnh vo thi
phc mc khi thit triu ca vua quan vua Minh Thi T - Trung Quc, c p
phong kin. dng vo triu nh Vit Nam t nm 1471.
Bt bo: tm dng hoa vn thu trn o Bi: cn gi l thy bi, ch di ngc eo
bo ca vua quan nh Nguyn. hai bn hng, c gn kt bng cc loi
Bt Tin: loi m trang trng ca vn ngc c hnh th khc nhau.

381
 Bn Hoa: loi m Thng phc p dng
cho th v nhn thuc ngch Tng quan
ca nh Trn.
Bc Cn: loi m trang trng ca vn
nhn, nho s v n ng thng dn thi L
Trung Hng, c kiu dng tng t m ni,
song hai bn mang tai c hai di tht, tht
li sau u.
Cch i: ai da ni chung, hnh trn,
trn ai c gn cc ming trang sc hnh
vung, hnh trn hoc hnh qu trm. ai
thng to rng, ch mang tnh trang sc.
Cao Sn: m Thng phc ca cc
quan vn t nht phm n lc phm thi
Trn - H k t sau nm 1396, m Thng
phc ca vn v b quan, gio th Quc T
Gim v gio vin cc l, huyn thi L s
t nm 1434 n nm 1437.
Cn hon: loi trang sc hnh trn c
nh vo hai bn m Ton Hoa thi Trn.
Chit Xung: m Thng phc ca cc
quan v t nht phm n lc phm thi
Trn - H k t sau nm 1396.
Chng: cc hoa vn thu trn L phc
Cn Min, tng trng cho tri t vn vt,
gm Nht (mt tri), Nguyt (mt trng),
Tinh thn (sao), Sn (ni), Long (rng), Hoa
trng (chim tr), Tng di (cc tng miu,
c hnh h v kh), To (rong), Ha (la),
Phn m (go), Ph (ru), Pht (ch ).
C : tn gi ca mt s dng hoa vn
thu trn o bo ca vua quan nh Nguyn.
C king. Xem: on lnh.
Cn: cn gi l Long Cn, hoc Cn
Long y, loi o trong L phc Cn Min,
thng c mu xanh sm hoc mu huyn,
c o giao lnh, thu cc hoa vn Ph, Pht, Cu Long Thng Thin: cn c gi ca Trung Quc nn gi l u Mu.
Sn, Ha Ring o Cn ca vua c l m Cu Long, hoc m Xung Thin, m inh T: cn gi l m Nhc, loi m
thu hoa vn Nht, Nguyt hai vai, Long Triu phc ca hong triu Nguyn, c c kiu dng ch inh nm ngang, trn
hai ng tay o. kiu dng tng t m Xung Thin triu m thng, cong trn dn khi ti nh, vn
Cn Min: tn gi tt ca b L phc o L, ring quy ch trang sc trn m c s ra sau gy. y l loi m Thng phc ca
Cn, m Min, l trang phc dnh ring khc bit. cc quan vn v nh Trn k t nm 1301,
cho vng v vng cng i thn s Dng ng: 1. mt trong nhng dng v l dng m c s dng rng ri trong
dng trong cc dp i l nh t tri t, hoa vn hnh hoa thi Trn, L. 2. m Triu qun i v dn gian thi L Trung Hng.
l ln ngi v.v., vo thi vua L Hin Tng phc ca Ni quan thi Trn, phm trt on lnh: cng gi l vin lnh, nm na
cn c s dng lm L phc khi vua cy ca cc quan c phn bit da vo s gi l o c king, ch loi o c trn, gi
Tch in. B L phc ny b ph b vo hnh ong bm sc trn m. 3. m Triu cc bn vai phi. Vo thi L, Nguyn, o
thi L Trung Hng v c khi phc vo phc ca hong t, vng t c phong on lnh ch c dng trong nhng bui
thi vua Minh Mng triu Nguyn. Vo thi tc quc cng triu L Trung Hng, kiu i triu.
Nguyn, Cn Min ch c s dng trong dng nh m Phc u, duy pha sau cao ng Pha: m Thng phc p dng
dp t Nam Giao. hn, hai cnh chun c khi c nm vng. cho quan vn t, ng, lc phm triu
Cn phc: tn gi chung ca o Cn v a La: cn gi l a La Ni, hay La Ni, Nguyn, l ph pha sau m c ln
tt c phc sc i km nh thng, t tt, u ch cng mt loi vi gai, phn ln c theo hnh sng, gy m nh hai di anh r
i i, cch i, bi, th v.v. mu xanh v . Vo thi L Trung Hng, xung lng.
Cng phc: 1.vn ng ngha vi khi loi m inh T c lm t cht liu vi ng Cn: 1. loi m Tin phc c
nim Thng phc, tc trang phc mc gai ny c gi l m a La. lm bng the en, tng t kiu dng m
vo nhng bui thng triu ngy 5, 10, ai: th phc sc eo ngang lng bn Phc u, ring hai cnh chun c ct lm
20, 25, t th k XV tr v sau ch loi trang ngoi o bo, c gn cc ming trang sc bng ct my, bung ra sau, choi sang
phc vua quan mc vo nhng bui chu hnh trn, hnh qu trm lm bng kim loi hai bn thnh hnh ch Bt . 2. loi m
mng mt v ngy rm. 2. ch loi trang hoc i mi, c x qua hai dy tht Thng phc ca vua v l m Triu phc
phc trang trng ca nho s v dn thng. di ra t nch o, m ly ngi, thng ch ca hong thi t nh Nguyn, m c phn
Cng Thn: loi m Triu phc dnh mang tnh trang sc gy nh cao, chm khum trn chm v
cho cc v vng, hu, minh t thi L - i i: 1. ai tht lng, c hai di to pha trc, choi sang hai bn thnh hnh
Trn, phm trt c phn bit bi s bc bn bung xung di chn, cn gi l ch Bt .
v s trang sc ong bm trn m. thn. 2. di la mu xanh trong Cn phc Gic nh: m Thng phc ca cc v
Cu Long: Xem Cu Long Thng Thin. ca vua quan triu Nguyn; mt u di la c tc cao m khng c chc trong triu
Cu Long ng Cn: cn gi l ng c tht ai da pha trc, sau vng nh Trn - H k t sau nm 1396.
Cn, loi m Thng phc ca hong qua vai, c nh li phn ai sau lng. Gii Tri: m ca php quan cc triu
triu Nguyn, m c phn gy nh cao, Xem: Thn. L, L, Nguyn. Gii tri tng truyn l
chm khum trn chm v pha trc, choi u Mu: cn gi l m Tr, bo v linh th mt sng, bn tnh ngay thng,
sang hai bn thnh hnh ch Bt . Xem: phn u ca binh s khi gio mc, v hnh thng c to hnh tng t k ln.
ng Cn. dng ging chic mu, mt loi ni thi c Ngay t thi Hn, triu nh Trung Quc
382 383
 m phng sng gii tri ch ra loi m
p dng cho cc quan thc thi php lut,
nhm nhn gi nim v lng tri v s
cng bng. Triu nh nh L, L, Nguyn
Vit Nam u p dng m Gii Tri cho cc
v php quan, tuy nhin kiu dng m mo
mi thi mi khc bit, thi L m ny c
kiu dng Lng Quan, cn thi Nguyn c
kiu dng Phc u.
Giao bo: tn loi o bo c thu cc
hnh giao long dng trn thi Nguyn.
Giao lnh: cng gi l trc lnh, trng
lnh, nm na gi l o trng vt, ch loi o
c bt cho trc ngc, nh loi o trng
ca cc nh s chng ta vn thy hin nay.
Gip Minh Quang: loi o gip hon
b vo thi ng vi c trng l hai tm
h tm hnh trn trc ngc v hai ming
trang sc hnh u h gn hai bn vai.
Gip Tr: tn gi chung ca o Gip v
m Tr. Xem: u Mu.
Giy Tch: loi giy c hai lp , lp
trn lm bng gai hoc da, lp di lm
bng g. Giy Tch vn l loi giy thi Hn,
v sau ch cn c s dng vo nhng dp
i l. T nm 1396 n 1404, triu nh
Trn - H quy nh vn v b quan t lc
phm tr ln u c i giy Tch trong
cc bui Thng triu. Vo thi L s, triu
nh nh L vn thng thng giy Tch
cho cng thn.
H u: m Thng phc p dng cho
quan v nht, nh, tam phm triu Nguyn.
H Quan: loi m lm bng st, c hnh
u h, xut hin ti Trung Quc vo thi
Ty ng - Ng i, t thi Tng tr v
sau khng thy na, ti Vit Nam hin ch
thy qua tm ngi c nin i thi Trn.
Hoa bo: tn loi o bo c thu cc
hnh hoa trn thi Nguyn.
Honh: tn gi ca mt loi dy trn
m Min gi m c nh trn u, mt
u dy buc trm ngc ci trn m, sau
vng qua cm vt ln u kia ca trm.
Trm dng c nh bi tc. Vo thi
Nguyn, dy honh c thay th bng dy
thy anh. Xem: Thy anh.
Ht: ming ng (hoc g, tre) hnh ch
nht, cc quan cm tay trong cc bui i
l, thit triu, tnh cht tng t ngc khu.
Xem: Ngc khu.
Hung bi. Xem: B t.
K y: loi o trng c trn cc tay, kt
hp vi thng, c mc lt bn trong L
phc, Triu phc v Thng phc ca vua
quan, qu tc triu Nguyn.
Khn xp: khn vn tc ca n ng
c qun xp np u n, cht theo kiu
ch Nht , hoc ch Nhn gia trn.
Khong nm 1920, 1930, ngi Vit mi ch
ra loi khn khu dn lin nhng vnh np
li, ch vic t chp ln u cho nhanh
chng v thun tin, gi l khn xp.
Kh: mc pha di ca n ng, c ngc, ci bng cc, mc lt bn trong.
khi ch chic qun hai ng, cng c khi ch
dng khn qun quanh eo v i che h b.
Khc Phi: m Thng phc ca quan
ng s i thi Trn - H k t sau nm
1396.
Kim Quan: loi m Triu phc ca
hong t, hong thn c phong tc
qun cng, huyn cng, hng cng, huyn
384
hu v hng hu triu Nguyn, thng kt dy ngc r pha trc v pha sau, gi l
hp vi o bo T linh mu . lu. Xem: Lu.
L phc: ch loi trang phc vua quan Min bn: cn gi l din, vn p hnh
mc vo cc bui cng t, l tit, cng c vung (hoc ch nht) trn m Min.
khi c gi l T phc. M Nhc. Xem: inh T.
Long bo: loi o bo thu hnh rng M Tr. Xem: u Mu.
ca vua cha ni chung. Ngc khu: ming ngc hnh ch nht,
Lng Cn: 1. loi m thi vua L Thnh nhn u, vua v i thn cm tay trong
Tng, c lm bng lng ui nga, tn cc bui i l, tnh cht tng t ht. Xem:
m c ngha l m mt v thng c Ht.
s dng vo ma h. 2. loi m i khi vo Ng i: loi phc sc eo trn ai
chu ca hong t, vng t cha c ca cc quan vn. Trung Quc vo thi
phong tc theo quy ch nm 1661. 3. loi ng, Ng i c dng ph hiu mang
m Th phc chu cha ca cc quan vn hnh con c, ng trong ti, dng nh th
theo quy ch nm 1721. bi ra vo i ni. n thi Tng, Ng
Lng Quan: cn gi l m Tin Hin, i khng cn c ng trong ti m
c cc vin lng trang sc chy dc trn dng vng bc trc tip ch thnh hnh
thn m, s vin lng c dng phn con c eo ai, ch mang tnh trang sc,
bit phm cp ca b quan. t s cao sang vinh hin. Ng i xut hin
Lu: 1. tn gi ca cc chui ngc chu ti Vit Nam mun nht l vo nm 798, b
nh hai u Min bn trn m Min. S ph b vo thi L s.
lu c quy nh da vo thn phn ca Nht Bnh: o Triu phc dnh cho
ngi i m, nh m ca hong c 12 cung tn nht, nh, tam, t giai v l Thng
lu, m ca vng cng c 9 lu. 2. tn ca phc ca hong thi hu, hong hu, cng
loi di tht Bo phc ca vua v hong cha triu Nguyn. y l loi o x c, c
hu triu Nguyn. dng i khm, c o to bn to thnh hnh
M qui: loi o c trn cc tay, m ch nht trc ngc, di c c di vi
buc hai vt o.
Mng bo. Xem: T linh bo. Sa: m dnh cho quan vn, c hai
Mng lan: dng o hp tay, c li thu tng, thn trn, hai cnh chun trn v to
sc tng t nh Mng bo, song chiu di bn. M ny vn c ch ra da trn kiu
vt o v ng tay o u ngn hn Mng dng m Phc u. Xem: Phc u.
bo, c p dng cho mt s v quan v Phong Cn: cn gi l m T Ti, loi
triu Nguyn. m p dng cho quan vn cha nhp lu
Min: cn gi l m Lu Min, m Bnh v l m L phc ca dn gian, kiu dng
Thin, c vn p hnh ch nht, nh cc tng t m Vn T Ti, song khng c
385
trang sc, khng thu hoa, mu en tuyn.
Xem: ng Pha, Vn T Ti.
Phc u: loi m hai tng, tng sau
nh cao hn tng trc, l ni cha bi tc,
gy m nh hai cnh chun nm ngang.
M Phc u thi Tng c dng vung vc.
Nh Minh v sau da theo kiu dng m
Phc u thi Tng ch ra mt dng m
trn, hai cnh chun trn, to bn, gi l m
Sa. M Phc u c du nhp vo Vit
Nam t nm 1059, p dng lm m Thng
phc ca b quan, n thi Trn b ph
b, ti du nhp vo triu L s. n thi
Nguyn, nh Nguyn quy nh m Phc
u vung l loi m dnh cho quan v,
m Phc u trn ( Sa) dnh cho quan
vn. M Phc u ca Vit Nam hu ht
u c gn cc trang sc bng kim loi.
Ph Dung: mt loi m ca vua nh
Trn theo ghi nhn ca L Tc, nhiu kh
nng l m Thng triu, thng c bit
n l m ca o gio, c hnh dng bng
sen, chp vo bi tc.
Ph hu: hai cnh di ra t hai bn sn
o bo theo quy ch ca nh Minh, c p
dng vo triu nh L Trung Hng v triu
Nguyn.
Phng tm khc lnh: dng phc sc
lm bng la trng, hnh trn eo vo
c, chnh gia c mt on la di xung
hnh vung, thng c phi vi L phc
ca vua v cc quan i thn, t nht cn
c s dng n thi Trn. Nh Nguyn
khng s dng loi phc sc ny.
Phng Thng: m Thng phc ca
tn tht thi Trn - H k t sau nm 1396.
Phng bo: o bo thu hnh chim tam sn (ba ngn ni) nh gia trn m. Thng Thin: tn gi khc ca m
phng ca hu phi triu Nguyn ni T tt: vung vi hnh ch nht che pha Quyn Vn vo thi Trn, m Triu Thin
chung. trc h th, mt trong nhng ph kin ca vo thi L, v m Xung Thin vo thi
Phng ng t phc: dng o bo Triu L phc Cn Min. Nguyn. Xem: Quyn Vn, Triu Thin,
phc ca tc hu, minh t thi Trn, trn Thi bo: tn gi chung ca cc loi o Xung Thin.
o thu hoa vn phng c. bo c thu hoa vn sc s. Th: cn gi t th, di tt bng cc
Phng Quan: m Triu phc ca hu Thi C: m Thng phc ca cc quan si t tht sau lng, gm i th, di tt
phi triu Nguyn, ngi th c phn bit vn v chnh tht phm, bt phm, cu kn hnh ch nht, v tiu th, di tt tha,
bi s lng trang sc phng ma rng phm thi Trn - H k t sau nm 1396. nm trn i th.
bay trn m. M c chn hnh phng ma Thanh Ct: 1. loi vi Ct thng c mu Thng: mt dng vy quy, quy ra
rng bay c gi l Cu Phng Quan, c xanh en, ngoi ra cn c nhum thnh ngoi chic qun hai ng, loi trang phc
by hnh gi l Tht Phng Quan cc mu ha minh, vi minh v mu qu. 2. ny ph bin trong dn gian Vit Nam vo
Qun: t ch chung cc loi vy, bao loi o T phc ca vua cha, Thng phc thi L - Trn. n thi Nguyn, thng
gm c thng. Tuy nhin, t cui thi ca quan li, ng thi cng l Tin phc cn c gi l xim, trang phc c quy
Nguyn, khi nim qun c dng ch ca quan dn triu L Trung Hng, s khu nh s dng trong nhng bui l, thit
loi mc pha di, c hai ng chn. bit da trn mu sc o. 3. loi m ca mt triu, p dng i vi vua quan v hong
Xem: Kh, Qun chn. s hng binh lnh cp thp, ca thng dn tc, nhng ngi c danh v v phm trt.
Qun chn: ch loi qun c hai ng triu L Trung Hng, c kiu dng tng t Xem: Xim.
chn phn bit vi loi qun khng y, l m inh T, cng l loi m cc quan i Thng phc: trang phc mc vo
chic vy c cu ca ph n Vit xa kia. khi nc c quc tang. nhng bui Thng triu, cc ngy mng
Quyn Vn: tn gi khc ca m Thng Thao: 1. loi dy tt dng treo vo 5, 10, 20, 25.
Thin, loi m c chp un cong ng v nn (nn quai thao). 2. loi dy tt dng Thy anh: tn gi khc ca dy honh
pha sau, trng nh ng my cun, thn tht lng, c s dng rng ri vo thi L trn m Min dnh cho hong triu
m c cc vin lng c nh cc ht Trung Hng. Nguyn, c lm bng t vng, tht cm,
ngc chu. y l loi m Triu phc ca Thn: tn gi khc ca i i, mt c tua hnh ht bt r xung. Xem: Honh.
vua Tng. Qua ghi chp ca L Tc, cc vua dng ai tht lng, c hai di to bn bung Thy ba: hoa vn sng nc trn o bo
nh Trn cng s dng m Quyn Vn, c xung di chn. triu L - Nguyn.
l khi p dng vo Vit Nam, loi m ny Tht Long ng Cn: loi m Triu Tin phc: trang phc vua quan mc
cng c s dng trong cc bui i triu. phc ca hong thi t triu Nguyn, c vo ngy thng, nhng lc khng phi
Song khai: loi o x vt trc, vt sau, kiu dng tng t m Cu Long ng thit triu.
trang phc thng dng ca binh lnh triu Cn ca hong , song s lng trang sc Tiu kim t phc: dng o bo Triu
Nguyn. trn m c s gia gim. Xem: ng Cn. phc mu ta nm vng ca tc vng
Tam Sn: loi m c nhng mi hnh Thin H i: di la trang sc vt ngang thi Trn.
my un cong chp m, c ngc chu min bn trn m Min ca vng. Ton Hoa: loi m p dng cho ngch
nh dc cc vin lng tng t m Th phc: trang phc b quan s dng Tng quan ca nh Trn, c hai kim hon
Quyn Vn Thng Thin, c trang sc hnh khi vo chu cha Trnh. nh hai bn m, vi nhung mu ta pha
386 387
bic lm thnh su tua, nh vo ai ngang
sau m. T nm 1396 n ht triu H, m
Ton Hoa c p dng lm m Thng
phc ca cc quan vn v tng tht phm.
Trng vt. Xem: Giao lnh.
Triu phc: loi trang phc vua quan
mc vo cc bui l nh, song vo thi
Nguyn, c ng nht vi Cng phc,
ch loi trang phc mc vo bui i triu
ngy rm v mng mt.
Triu Thin: 1. m Thng triu ca cc
vng, hu tc di thi Trn; 2. tn gi
khc ca m Xung Thin thi L, loi m c
kiu dng tng t m Phc u, hai cnh
chun hi gp, hng ln tri.
Trc lnh: 1. tn gi khc ca o giao
lnh; 2. ch loi o c thng ni chung, bao
gm c o giao lnh, t thn, Nht Bnh.
Xem: Giao lnh.
Trung n: o lt trong mu trng, kiu
giao lnh, c o thng c thu cc hoa
vn Ph.
Trung Tnh: loi m Tin phc ca cc
chc quan i khi nhn h, khng phi vo
triu theo quy ch ca nh Minh, Trung
Quc. Ti Vit Nam, hin ch thy loi m
ny c th hin trn pho tng hong t
L nh T cha Bt Thp, Bc Ninh.
Trng lnh. Xem: Giao lnh.
T thn: loi o x t hai bn sn, c
hai vt kiu i khm, c o c vin chy
thng xung di, di qu gi. Loi o t
thn thi Nguyn thng thy l loi o
hp tay, tuy nhin t thi L tr v trc,
ng tay o rng hp u c ty nghi s
dng.
T in: loi o c trn, t phn c tr vi trang phc Cn Min ca hong , Xun Thu: 1. loi m L phc ca hong
xung x t, c may bng bn kh vi, mu en huyn hoc xanh sm, thu hoa triu Nguyn s dng khi t l ti tng
thng c mu en, c s dng ph bin vn chim tr. miu; 2. loi m Thng phc ca cc quan
trong cung nh v dn gian Vit Nam thi Vin lnh. Xem: on lnh. v t, ng, lc phm triu Nguyn.
L - Trn. Vin Du: m Thng phc ca cc v Xung Thin: dng m c kiu dng nh
T linh bo: cn gi l Mng bo, o vng hu thi Trn - H k t sau nm 1396. m Phc u, ring hai cnh chun hng
bo Triu phc ca cc quan nht, nh, tam V i Long: loi m qun phc ca cc ln tri. y l loi m Thng phc ca
phm triu Nguyn, trn o c thu bn v vua u triu Nguyn, c kt hp vi cc vua thi L s, v l m Triu phc ca
loi linh th long, ly, quy, phng. Long bo hp tay. vua L, cha Trnh, cng nh vua cha nh
T Phng Bnh nh: m ca nho Vng cn: dng li bc quanh u Nguyn. Quy ch trang sc trn m mi
sinh, t ti thi Minh Trung Quc v ca c nh tc c p dng vo triu nh thi mi khc.
cc tn sinh qu tc ca nh Nguyn Vit ng Trong t nm 1744 v tip tc s Yn V: m Tin phc ca cc quan v
Nam. Loi m ny lm bng the, bn bn dng trong cung nh triu Nguyn. triu L Trung Hng, thn hnh lc lng,
vung vc, trn rng di hp. Xim: vn ch t tt, vung vi hnh ch sau m c mt l ph tng t hnh ui n
T Phng Bnh nh: loi m qun nht che trc h th, vo thi Nguyn c nn cn c gi l m n Dip (l n),
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inh Tin Hong, c duy tr n thi
L Trung Hng. Loi m ny lm bng da,
nh phng, bn bn vung vc c khu
rp li, trn hp di rng. TH MC SCH TRCH DN
T tu gin bch: di vi nhung mu ta
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