Training Program about Sewing Construction for H&M NQC Team

1. Stitch Types

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 2. Seam Types

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 The Lap Felled type, involves only one stitching
operation - a strong seam with fabric edges
protected from fraying.
Commonly used for making up jeans or similar
garments.

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 Factors That Effect Seam Strength
Five factors that determine the strength of a seam include:

Fabric Type, Weight, Strength, Durability

Thread Fiber Type, Construction, and Size
Stitch and Seam Construction
Stitches per Inch

Any one of these factors can adversely affect the performance of a sewn product depending on the end-use of the sewn
product.

If a manufacturer has frequent complaints from their customers due to seam failures, we would recommend that an evaluation
be done to determine if the problem is thread failure or fabric failure. This can be done easily by seeing if the fabric is still
OK but the thread is broken, or observing if the thread is OK but the fabric has failed.

Fabric Failure

If the problem is fabric failure, you should determine if the problem is

Fabric rupture or
Seam Slippage
If Fabric Failure is occurring due to the yarns in the fabric being ruptured,
you can sometimes change the seam design to reduce this problem. This might
include:
Build in more fullness at the location where the seams are failing.
Add re-enforcements to the seam construction with multiple
thicknesses of fabric, etc.
Reduce the number of SPI if you think that needle penetrations are damaging the fabric. This may require
going to a larger and/or stronger thread to minimize the possibility of seam failure due to thread failure.

Seam Slippage is when the yarns in the fabric are not rupturing, but sliding out of the seam causing the seam
to open up. If this is the problem, then we recommend the following:
Increase the seam allowance or seam margin.
Re-engineer the seam construction so that all the stress is not trying
to separate the warp and filling yarns in the fabric.
Use a French felled seam construction
Use a fusible tape on the areas where the seams are failing.
Contact your fabric supplier for assistance.

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 Thread Failure

If the problem you observe is thread failure, then you are under-threaded. Quality seam engineering relates to
many areas of concern including seam strength and seam durability. Obviously the thread plays an important role
in all of these areas that are controlled by the factors shown below.
Thread Fiber Type
Thread Construction
Thread Finish
Thread Size

Thread Size
For 301 lockstitch seams, recommend using the same needle thread size as
the bobbin thread size in the seam. Why? Because a chain is only as strong
as its weakest link. If a smaller, weaker thread is used in the bobbin,
then the seam will only be as strong as the bobbin thread.
Many years ago, with 100% cotton threads, a size smaller bobbin thread
could be used and still maintain the same seam strength. However, with the
introduction of polyester and nylon synthetic fibers that have superior
abrasion resistance to cotton, this rule no longer applies.
A smaller bobbin thread will allow the sewing operator to wind more thread
on the bobbin resulting in fewer bobbin changes and higher productivity.
This smaller size thread will also save on thread costs. However, the seam
strength is now controlled by the size of the bobbin
Thread rather than the needle thread. The result could be an excessive
amount of seam failures at some point in the life of the sewn product.

Notice that in the diagram of the 401 chain stitch, a loop of looper thread
is holding the needle thread through the seam. Also, notice that the
threads are interlooped rather than interlocked as we saw on the
lockstitch seam. This allows a looper thread to be downsized to at least
60% of the needle thread size without adversely affecting the seam
strength. This is one way to reduce thread cost without adversely
affecting the seam quality. However, you need to determine if carrying
another SKU (stock keeping unit) will significantly increase the cost of
inventory and supervision on the sewing floor to make sure the right size
thread is being used in the correct position.

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 Minimizing Thread Breakage & Skipped Stitches

Thread breakage and skipped stitches are common aggravations on any sewing floor because they interrupt
production, affect quality, and reduces the earnings and efficiency of production operators. Thread breakage and
skipped stitches can be caused by many factors including:
Wrong Thread For The Application
Quality Defects In The Thread
Improper Needle / Thread Size Relationship
Worn Or Defective Thread Guides Or Eyelets
Improper Threading
Excessive Machine Thread Tension
Defective Needle Or Improper Positioning Of The Needle
Needle Heat

Worn Or Defective Sewing Machine Parts (Burrs Or Sharp Surfaces On Thread Handling Or
Stitch Forming Devices)
Sewing Machines Out Of Adjustment
Improper Feeding
Improper Operator Handling
Flagging

As you can see then there are many variables that impact thread breakage and skipped stitches. Initially we will focus
on the characteristics in thread that impact thread breakage, but later we will also discuss a logical approach used
for trouble-shooting thread breakage.

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 3. Stitches per Inch (SPI) - What You Should Know

When writing garment specifications, you should not neglect specifying the proper number of stitches per inch
that should be used in your sewn products. Why? Because the number of stitches per inch can have a direct influence
on the following: 1) the seam strength; 2) the stitch appearance; and 3) the seam elasticity on stretch fabrics.

An estimated seam strength formula was developed years ago for woven seams where one piece of fabric is placed
on top of another with a specific seam margin and stitched with either a 301 lockstitch or 401 chainstitch.

Obviously, the seam strength is dependent on a number of factors including:

Type & Weight of the Fabric
Stitch & Seam Construction
Stitches per Inch
Thread Type and Size
Stitch Balance (Thread Tensioning)

How to Measure the Stitch Length or Stitches per Inch?

The stitch length is measured by measuring the number of lengths of thread found within one inch. Stitch
counters are available from that make this measurement easier, however, you can place a ruler next to the seam
and perform the same task.
SPI is measured by counting the number of lengths of thread found within one inch. As you can see here, there are
approximately 9 SPI sewn in this seam.

Figure 2. Stitch Counter Measuring SPI

When setting standards for stitches per inch, you should always keep in mind that more stitches per inch used in
a seam requires longer sewing cycles to complete the seam. Longer sewing cycles translates in to higher labor
costs and lower production levels. A sewing machine sewing at 5,000
SPM (stitches per minute) at 8 SPI will sew 17.4 yards of seam per minute. A sewing machine sewing at 5,000
SPM at 14 SPI will sew 9.9 yards of seam per minute.

More stitches per inch will also consume for thread per inch of seam. This will contribute to higher seam strength
and more elastic seams, but will also increase the consumption of thread required to sew the garment.
Therefore, the recommendations listed above are common stitch levels that provide adequate seam strength but
also take into consideration the factors just mentioned.

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 4. Minimizing Seam Puckering

Seam puckering refers to the gathering of a seam during sewing, after sewing, or after laundering, causing an
unacceptable seam appearance. Seam puckering is more common on woven fabrics than knits; and it is
prominent on tightly woven fabrics. Puckering is usually caused by one or more of the following conditions:
Yarn Displacement (structural jamming of fabric yarns).
Tension Puckering (excessive thread tension and recovery).
Machine Puckering (uneven ply feeding).
Shrinkage (where seam components have differential shrinkage).

Below is a rating system for seam puckering from 1 to 5 with 5 being pucker-free. This AATCC seam
smoothness analysis is used by many major manufacturers to rate their seam performance.

Yarn Displacement or Structural Damage

Seam puckering is more prevalent on very tightly woven fabrics because the yarns are oriented in very tight layers

that cannot shift easily to compensate for the thread as it is inserted into the seam. This causes these tight yarns

in the fabric to draw up giving a rippled appearance along the seam line. This is usually more of a problem when
seams are sewn in the warp direction than in the weft (filling) or bias directions.

Identification
If possible, carefully clip the thread between adjacent needle
penetrations along the seam and observe if the puckering
remains in the fabric or goes away. If the puckering is still in the

seam after the threads are clipped, then yarn displacement is the
probable cause.

Solutions to Puckering Caused by Yarn Displacement

To minimize seam puckering caused by yarn displacement

or the structural jamming of the yarn in the fabric being sewn,
the following corrective action should be used:

Use the smallest thread size available that will maintain adequate
seam strength and sewing performance. Threads specifically
designed for minimizing seam puckering on light weight no-iron

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 shirts and blouses these threads are very strong for their size and
have excellent frictional characteristics allowing them to be sewn

with minimum machine thread tension.

Use smallest needle size possible that will not cause excessive sewing problems. We also recommend using a needle
with a longer needle point, if available which will have less resistance as it penetrates the seam.
Use a needle plate with a small needle hole; and a presser foot with a small needle hole.

Reduce the number of stitches per inch so there are fewer yarns displaced in the stitch line to cause seam
puckering.
When possible, cut the garment pieces so they can be sewn on the bias or in a direction that allows the different

yarns in the construction of the fabric to be displaced.

If a thread is sewn into the seam with excessive machine thread tension, the thread will try to recover or return to its
original length. This will cause the seam to pucker immediately as the seam comes out from under the presser-foot.

However, sometimes the sizing or resins in the fabric will initially maintain a flat seam but later in the day, the seam

will appear puckered. This phenomenon also occurs after the garment is laundered and the sizing materials are
removed causing the seam to pucker and the inspector to think that there was too much shrinkage in the thread.

Excessive thread tension during sewing will not only cause puckered seams but also cause other sewing problems

including thread breakage and skipped stitches. Threads are designed to be sewn with minimum thread tension.

They also have a very high initial modulus or resistance to stretching under normal sewing tensions. This will help
minimize or eliminate tension puckering

Identification
Carefully clip the thread between adjacent needle penetrations along the seam and observe if the
puckering is reduced in the fabric. If it is, then excessive thread tension is the probable cause of the seam
puckering.

Solutions to Tension Puckering

Use a thread with a low elongation or high initial modulus to minimize stretching during sewing. Use a thread with
good lubricity characteristics that will allow it to be sewn with minimum machine thread tension.
Use very light machine thread tensions. Begin by setting the bottom thread tension (bobbin or looper) as light as
possible but still maintain the proper thread control. Next adjust the needle thread tension to a minimum level
necessary to maintain a closed seam and a balanced stitch. This not only reduces the elongation of the thread in
the seam, but also improves loop formation and sewability.
Reducing the thread size will not only help to minimize structural jamming but can usually be sewn with lighter
machine thread tension because a smaller thread requires less tension to pull it up into the seam and set the stitch
If structural jamming does not appear to be a problem, increase the needle size or use a needle with a ball eye to
open up a larger hole in the fabric so the stitch can be set with the lightest tension possible.
Properly set the take-up spring so that the stitch can be set with minimum thread tension. Polish or replace all
eyelets and thread guides that may be grooved to make sure they do not affect the frictional properties of the
thread. On some machines a rotary tension system is available that meters the thread more uniformly that
conventional tension disc systems.
On some machines the thread control guides and eyelets can be adjusted to control the thread more efficiently so
less tension is required. This is advisable when possible.

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 Solutions for lockstitch machines:
Make sure the positioning finger is correctly set to allow the thread to pass through the hook with minimum
resistance. If the machine has a mechanical opener, set the opener to shift the bobbin case holder so it will allow
the thread to pass by the positioning finger with as little resistance as possible.
It is sometimes necessary to refine the gib or rail on the bobbin case holder so the thread can be released
by the hook sooner in the stitch cycle. This sometimes allows the thread to be set with lighter tension.
On most sewing machines, four elements help in setting the stitch in the seam. They are the take-up system, the
feed system, the needle thread tension, and the bottom thread tension. Proper feed timing in reference to the
take-up system is critical to sewing with light tensions.
In extreme cases, it may be necessary to use an oil free hook that uses a Teflon coated rail. It has been found that
machine oil migrates on other surfaces of the hook and can increase the surface friction as the thread passes
around the hook.
Solutions for chainstitch machines:
On 401 Chainstitch machines, adjust the stitch balance so the needle loops on the bottom side of the seam lay
over at least half way to the next needle penetration when the looper thread is unraveled out of the seam. The
looper thread must also be as loose as possible.
Adjust the thread controls to allow the stitch to be set with minimum thread tension. On many chainstitch
machines, it is best to draw most of the needle thread through the tension discs when the needle is rising and
a small amount when the needle is descending (75% on upstroke & 25% on the down stroke). Advancing the
looper thread take-up timing will sometimes allow the needle thread to be released sooner so that it can set
with lighter machine thread tension.

Feed Puckering (Uneven Ply Feeding)

Feed puckering occurs when one of the fabric plies is fed into
the seam at a different rate than the other ply or plies. This
causes a gathering effect in the over-fed ply. Ply mismatching as
shown to the right
(a) Usually occurs when the presser foot holds back on the upper
ply as the bottom ply is being fed into the seam at a higher rate
by the feed dog.
(b) Usually occurs when the operator holds back on the bottom
ply and pushes the top ply into the machine so the fabric edges
will come out evenly.
Many seams observed display both of these conditions, with the
first usually contributing to the latter because the sewing
operator will attempt to correct for the uneven feeding of the
sewing machine.

Identification
Make two perpendicular cuts across a sewn seam where the
puckered condition is the greatest. Remove the thread in the
seam and see if the two plies are of equal length. If one is longer
than the other then the puckering is being caused by uneven ply
feeding.

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 Solutions to Feed Puckering
To minimize seam puckering caused by uneven ply feeding, the following corrective action should be used:
Use the minimum presser foot pressure that will maintain uniform feeding. Make sure the presser foot is
clamping the fabric properly both in front and back of the needle. When the feed is up and moving the fabric,
the seam should be clamped by the entire bottom surface of the presser foot. This can be checked by
inserting a piece of paper under the foot from different angles and observing if the foot is clamping the fabric
properly.
Set the feed dogs at their proper height and check for back-feeding. The feed dog should have the
optimum teeth per inch and number of rows of teeth for the operation and fabric being sewn.
Puckering can sometimes occur if the material is not held down flat as it is being fed through the machine
creating a rippled appearance as the plies conform to the feed dog teeth. Usually lightweight wrinkle
resistant fabrics should be sewn with feed dogs with 20 - 24 teeth per inch. Medium weight fabrics like mens
trousers should be sewn with feed dogs with 14 - 18 teeth per inch. Heavy weight fabrics are usually sewn with
feed dogs with 8 - 12 teeth per inch.
Use the correct presser foot and needle plate for the material and operation being sewn. The needle plate and
presser foot should have relatively small needle holes in relation to the needle size being used. As a
general rule, the needle hole should be approximately twice the size of the needle. Check to make sure
that the needle plate is not bent down at the needle hole.
Use a low friction presser foot: Teflon coated roller bearing, feeding foot, etc. Use an anti- puckering
needle plate with a retaining spring that holds back on the bottom ply to match the top ply.
Use machines equipped with a needle feed or compound feed mechanism where the needle moves with the
feed as the fabric is being sewn. This pinning of the plies as they are being fed helps reduce feed puckering.
Whenever possible, use machines equipped with auxiliary top feeding mechanisms such as: walking foot, puller,
top driven roller feed, upper belt feed, etc..
On machines equipped with differential feed systems, set the differential action to slightly stretch the bottom
ply to match the top ply so they are fed evenly into the seam.
Use automatic machines equipped with material clamping systems that prevent the fabric from moving
as it is being sewn.
Make sure you are using the correct capacity of folders and guides for the fabric being sewn.
Observe operator handling for proper fabric movement to and through the machine.
Make sure the pieces are cut properly in the cutting room and the proper seam tolerances have been maintained
so the pieces are of equal length before seaming.
If the plies have different stretch characteristics, position the ply with the greatest amount of stretch against
the feed if possible.

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 5. Sewing Machine Attachments which are commonly used

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