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Knitcalculations Lect 150415023814 Conversion Gate01
Knitcalculations Lect 150415023814 Conversion Gate01
As a thumb rule knitting experts prefer to use such knitting machine whose
gauges is near to count of yarn (English count) i.e. for 20-gauge machines most
suitable yarn count is 20s. This rule is has certain limitations, like, for 28-gauge
yarn of 26s to 30s is most suitable. But for very fine counts this rule is not
applicable and also machines have maximum gauge 32. Normally fine counts
are not used as such rather they are make double, like count 60s double, which
means that net count is near to 30s. And this 60 double count is suitable for 30-
gauge machine.
Some knitting machine manufacturers suggest a range of yarn count for their
machine.
There is another way to solve this problem and that is to take help from old
record. Every firm is producing many types of fabrics and on the basis of
experience they develop a database for ready reference.
One can get a ready reference from the table to produce fabric of certain
grammage. We are also giving expected width of fabric after wet processing.
This table can provide just a reference. Knitters have to decide by themselves
after doing a trial production, since there are many more factors, which can
affect yarn and gauge selection process.
Machine Gauge
As per Oxford Dictionary the word gauge is a noun and as well as verb. It is
used to measure level of any thing or for an instrument to measure width,
length or height of any thing.
In double knit circular machine it is used for cylinder and as well as dial.
Generally gauge is defined as number of needles per inch.
E = Number of needles
1 inch (25.4 mm)
Machine Pitch
Machine Pitch means the distance between the centres of two neighbouring
needles. It is denoted with small t. It is given in mm.
Yarn is sold and purchased in the form of cones and bags. Cones and bags have
certain weights.
Still in the international market yarn is sold in pounds not in kilograms. Bags
are of 100 pounds, which is equal to 45.3697 kgs.
Previously there were 40 cones in a bag but now there are bags available of 25
cones. In other words cones are of 2.5 pounds and four pounds.
Nominal Production of knitting machines
One very simple way to calculate knitting machine production by weighing the
total production of one hour or one shift or one day.
From these figures we can calculate the length of yarn being used by the machine
in one hour and then by converting this length into weight with the help of count
given we can calculate the quantity of yarn being consumed by machine in one
hour. This would be the optimum production of the machine. This optimum
production can be converted into nominal production by multiplying it with
efficiency. In the following pages we will explain this with few examples.
In the following pages we will explain the method to calculate nominal production
capacity of knitting machine. It is commonly believed that we can run knitting
machine up to 85% efficiency. However, by creating most suitable environment one
can increase machine efficiency.
From the above-mentioned figures we can calculate the length of yarn being used in
one revolution and if we know the length and count of yarn then it is quite easy to
calculate weight of yarn (see Example: 03 for more details)
Example 01
Calculate nominal production of a single jersey-knitting machine per hour
from the data given:
Machine Gauge 24
Machine Dia 30 inches
Number of Feeders 90
Machine RPM 26
Yarn Count 24
Stitch length 4 mm
Efficiency 85%
Solution:
Step one
This figure shows that machine is making 203400 stitches in one revolution.
Step Two
=203400 * 4 * 26 * 60
1000
= 1269216 meters or
= 1388015 yards
Step Three
In previous step we calculated quantity of yarn consumed in yards. We can
easily calculate weight of this yarn while its count is known (see example 03).
= 1388015
840 * 24
= 68.85 pounds or
= 31.23 Kilo grams
Efficiency 85% = 26.55 Kilo grams
Answer: this machine can produce 26.55 Kgs fabric in one hour at 85 %
efficiency
Example 02
This figure shows that machine is making 274320 stitches in one evolution.
Step Two
=274320 * 4.5 * 30 * 60
1000
= 2221992 meters
Step Three
= 2221992*75
9000
Answer =18516 grams or
=18.516 Kgs
Answer: this machine can produce 15.74 Kgs fabric in one hour at 85 %
efficiency
Note: if we are producing any textured fabric, like fleece, then we use two
different yarns at different feeders and ultimately stitch length is also different.
In such case we should calculate separately consumption of different yarn at
different feeders. Following example will help in calculating production in case
of use of more than one kind yarn.
Example 9
Calculate nominal production of a fleece-knitting machine per hour from the data
given:
Machine Gauge 18
Machine Dia 30 inches
Number of Feeders for 60
Front yarn
Number of feeders 30
For loop yarn
Machine RPM 28
Yarn Count 26s for front
Yarn count for loop 16s
Stitch length of 4.5 mm
front yarn
Stitch length of 2.5 mm
Loop yarn
Efficiency 85%
Solution:
Step one
First we will calculate number of needles and number of stitches produced in one
revolution. This would help us in calculating the total length of yarn consumed in
one revolution.
In this example we will calculate consumption of yarn in Kgs of both yarns and then
we will add them to get final production per hour
Consumption of yarn for front knitting, Every needle is making one stitch on every
feeder because machine is producing single jersey fabric (front of fleece).
=101760 * 4.5 * 28 * 60
1000
= 769305 meters or
= 841312 yards
Step Three
= 841312
840 * 30
= 38.52 pounds or
= 17.43 Kilo grams
Efficiency 85% = 14.85 Kilo grams
Answer: this machine will consume 14.85 Kgs of yarn to knit front of the fleece
fabric in one hour at 85 % efficiency
Step Four
Every needle is making one stitch on every feeder because machine is producing
single jersey fabric (front of fleece).
Note: that we have put 30 cones of course count for loops after every two feeders.
Step Five
=50880 * 2.5 * 28 * 60
1000
= 213696 meters or
= 233696 yards
Step Six
= 233696
840 * 16
= 17.39 pounds or
= 7.89 Kilo grams
Efficiency 85% = 6.70 Kilo grams
Step Seven
This machine can produce 21.55 Kgs fabric in one hour at 85% efficiency
All above discussion to elaborate the way to calculate the optimum production of a
knitting machine. The following formula is useful in every situation to calculate the
optimum production capacity of a knitting machine at 85% efficiency.
Grammage Expressions
Generally grammage is expressed in Grams per Meter Square (GSM) but in certain
cases it is also expressed Ounces per Yard Square (OSY). People, particularly
working in marketing and merchandising departments face problems in converting
GSM into OSY. We will explain this conversion method with examples before that
it is imperative to know the standard conversion factors of different measuring units.
A complete conversion chart is given at the end of the book. One should be much
familiar with these conversion factors.
Conversion of GSM (grams per square meter) into OSY (ounces per square yard)
250 GSM means that weight of one meter square fabric is 250 grams and 10 OSY
means weight on one yard squares is 10 ounces. In the following lines we will
explain the method of conversion from GSM to OSY and vice versa with the help of
examples.
Example 10
Convert 10 OSY (ounces per square yard) into GSM (grams per square meter).
It means weight of one yard square is 10 ounces or
Weight of one square yard is 280 grams (one ounce is equal to 28 grams) or
Weight of one 0.836 meter square (one yard square is 0.836 meter square) is 280
grams or
Example 11
Convert 250 GSM (grams per square meter) into OSY (ounces per square yard)
Weight of one square meter is 8.93 ounces (28 grams are equal to one ounce) or
Weight of 1.196 yard square (one meter square is equal to 1.196 yard square) is 8.93
or
Weight of one yard square = 8.93* 1
1.196
It was observed during interaction with the people working in garment business that
they face difficulties in calculation related to grammage, width and length of the
fabric. In the following lines we will explain relationship among these factors with
examples.
Example 10
Calculate weight of fabric from the given data.
Example 13
Solution:
Normally fabrics are knitted with one kind of yarn but in some cases more than one
type of yarn of different counts and combination (mixing of two different fibres) are
used. One very common example is knitting of fleece fabric, which is knitted by
using fine and course yarns, and one yarn is made of polyester and cotton. Another
example is knitting of fabric by using spandex filament and cotton or pure polyester.
In such condition there is a requirement to mention exact percentage of different
fibres in the fabric. Supplier has to mention this ratio on label. In the following lines
we discuss the methods to calculate such percentage with the help of examples.
Example
Find exact composition of different fibres in fleece fabric from the following data:
Yarn count front 30s 100 cotton
Yarn count for loop 20s 50:50 P/C
Consumption ratio Front: loop 2:1 (by weight)
Suppose for front we need 2Kg yarn and for loop we will be requiring 1 Kg yarn
Ratio:
Cotton: 83.33%
Polyester : 16.66