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Yarn Parameters Influencing The Knittability of High-Grade Spun Yarns
Yarn Parameters Influencing The Knittability of High-Grade Spun Yarns
Yarn Parameters Influencing The Knittability of High-Grade Spun Yarns
THE KNITTABILITY
OF HIGH-GRADE SPUN YARNS
V. HAVAS and K. ERDODy-NEMETH*
Department of Textile Technology and Light Industries,
Technical University, H-1521 Budapest
Received March 15, 1983
Presented by Prof. Dr. M. JEDERAN
Summary
The paper deals with the properties of high-grade spun yarns most influencing the
processibility on circular knitting machines. On the basis of laboratory and mill experiments,
yarn thickenings are the most decisive faults from the point of view of processibility. The paper
contains suggestions for practically limiting the number of faults.
Introduction
The relation between the properties of yarns and fabrics, furthermore the
prediction of the expectable functional performance and the characteristics of
fabrics have long been discussed in the knitting industry. A problem of major
importance is the type of the test method for determining the suitability of a
given yarn for a given purpose under given conditions.
Actually, requirements of a reasonable material management raise two
aspects imposing expedient yarn tests:
- processing of yarns of lower quality than required leads to higher
material consumption (more wastes) and generally, to a lower
efficiency, while only part of the products meets the requirements;
- use of yarns of higher quality than needed makes the goods, more costly
than necessary, and eventually demands more from the spinning mill
than necessary, to the detriment of efficiency.
Results of yarn tests and qualifications made both in mills and recently, in
our laboratory are only valid to restricted ranges. (Generally valid limits for
yarn properties cannot be set up because of differences in final uses.)
Confrontation of an adequate number of part results would offer a better
insight into relations between yarn properties, processibility and fabric
The test yarns and fabrics are listed in Table 1. From among the yarn
components, hare wool is novel, contained in four products. The beard-hair,
suitable for spinning, exhibits rather high thickness variations [1], and hare
wool is thicker than angora wool. Low density (0.94-1.3 gjcm 3 ) of hare wool
causes segregability in yarn blends making it difficult to knit. This explains the
higher irregularity of yarns containing hare wool compared to other types of
yarns (see later). The elongation of hare wool (30-40%) does not impair
processibility. However, in finishing, it has to be taken into consideration that it
Table 1
The types of yarns and fabrics tested
Linear density
Yarn Fabric Composition of yarns
Tt Nm
Yarn tests
. . . .. ' -. -........._...
..
YARN PARAMETERS INFLUENCING THE KNITTABILlTY 227
--
Tt =14.3 I Tt=I1.8
I D
o U[%]
CV[%]
I ~
V-
1
10
I~
I
5 I
I
Le 8 0 A E GI KM H N
3 4 ~ 6 7 8 10cm 15 20 30 40 50 70 1m 1.5 2 3 4
3 4 5 6 7 8 lOcm 15 20 30 40 50 70 1m
Fig. 2. Spectrograms
500
(10 3 mr 1t
number of thick places
16J
1
i
12-
faults affect processing, and to what extent; hence, what is the testing and
grading method best suiting the yarn grading. (The distribution of each fault
type in a given yarn agrees with the results obtained by other, similar tests
[12].)
Breaking force
number of faults
6500
6000
5500
5000
~500
~OOO
3500
3000
2500
1
2000J
1500 I
1000
500
80
600
60 ;::
400 '"
<:
."
",
40 ---.~--
'"
",
~
200 ::j
20
~
~
!i
~
,
0123456789 5 1020 30 40
+ +- + -GJ +GJ -+ +- - -
cm,0123456789 0123456789 0123456789 5 10 20 3040 cm,0123456789 0123456789 :i!
'>:~"
D,
f D2 DJ D4 D, D2 DJ D4
~
~
~ ~
==i
0 ~ [i] [J ""
20% '20% '20% .5'0 -20% -20% -20% -5%
N
~
232 V. HAVAS-K. ERDODI-NEMETH
Twist
Coefficient of friction
Table 2
Grading of yarns by fault content
60
40
20
3300
400
300
200
100
BDAEGMHN
Fig, 7. Distribution of the grossest faults in either of the two grading systems
force. Yarns are seen in Fig. 11 to exhibit rather different friction coefficients. In
virtue of the relationship shown in [8] to exist between friction and fabric
faults, factor jl > 0.3 (in yarns A, B, E, M, N) impairs knittability.
At the same time, there are a number of precedents [13J of the
undisturbed processing of yarns of such friction values, confirmed also by
knitting experience at Habselyem Knitting Mill.
FINli
4.oi
3.0 I
I
2.0
I
to I
I
L C BOA E GI KM H N
i
.Tt=14.3 Tt=11.8..
51
10 U
~.~3~~---Tio~~~~U--~1~~--~U--F~[N-j
,:1 'oo.~,
i .Jl 4MO~8..1
2.8 2.4 2.0 16
12 F 1Nl
Fig. 9. Distribution of the breaking force for cotton and PES yarns
Elongation, elasticity
'lnn",~nr
1..2
16 10 2.4 t8
n
FlNJ
..
FlNJ
...
";r ie
A~&r;
2.4 2.0 t6 t2 de FlNJ
...
Fig. 10. Distribution of the breaking force for hare wool yarns
}J
0.3 I
Q2
I
I
0.1
I
le 80 A E G,K
i
M
n
H N
I
.,I1.=.1iLL .I1.ill.e.
4*
Iv
W
0'>
FINI
:"
1.0 ~
:;;:
0.8 '"
'"
'"0.t>'"
t>
~
",.
~
'"
;j
I 1 -,- ,~~ I I
10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 E I%J
F[N
yarns (Fig. 8) a has been chosen as uniform upper limit load of 1 N in all the
yarn fatigue tests. The tests consisted of 10 cycles, with perfect unloading after
each cycle. 10 measurements were made on each bobbin.
The considerable deviations observed in the fatigue processes are shown
in Figs 12 and 13 for yarns K and A, respectively.
Elongation values for different loading conditions and cycle numbers
(Fig. 14) show that for identical loads the elongation values measured in the
first cycle (Sl(N)) are determinant for those after the tenth cycle (S10(1N))' (To ease
comparison, measuring points belonging to different yarns have been
connected; the dotted lines indicate that in the section between the points the
diagram is not interpreted.) The almost parallel course of the lines shows the
first cycle to be determinant. Clearly, elongation values in the first cycle vary by
less than 15% '- except yarn K (18-32% for the different yarns) and the total
elongation values measured after the tenth cycle are, in general, by 25% higher,
also for yarn K, than those after the first cycle.
Since elongations due to any force effect can be read off the diagrams, the
influence of quite small loads on elongations have been compared. Elongation
238 V. HAVAS-K. ER0001-NMI:.TH
E[%J
120
110
100
90
80
70
60
50
40
30
20
10
L K C B D A
values measured in the first fatigue cycle with 200 mN load generally remain
below 5%, and for 400 mN below 10%. (Also in these cases, the elongation of
yarn K somewhat exceeds the given limits.) Under small loads the elongation
values of different yarns show only quite minor deviations.
Analysis of the individual values shows the elongation tendency of the
yarns to vary considerably also within each yarn type. The measured minima
and maxima of 81 and 810 are seen in Fig. 14. From among the yarns of almost
identical mean elongation tendencies, hare wool yarn values 8 1 and 8 10 vary the
most, - one and a half times or twice as much as the other ones.
Yarn elasticity has been calculated as:
the difference between the total elongation measured after the tenth cycle (810)
and the residual elongation (8 10 m ), i.e. the combined momentary and delayed
elastic elongation components, referred to the total elongation. Also of yarn
YARN PARAMcTERS INFLUc'NClNG THE KNITTABILlTY 239
types of identical nominal count it can be said - also from the point of view of
residual elongation - that the extent of total elongation in the first cycle is
determinant, its 40-65% will be the residual elongation value after the t~nth
cycle. (The higher the e1 %, the higher its proportion transformed into residual
elongation after the tenth cycle. This is valid also for the thinner yarn K of high
elongation tendency, where the residual elongation almost equals the total
elongation in the first cycle.)
The calculated values of yarn elasticity show exactly the reverse order of
yarns (Fig. t 5) as the elongation tendency: the yarns A, B oflow extensibility are
of the highest elasticity.
d%]
60 r
40
20
L K C BOA
Resistance to bending
150
r
-
lOO
50
L K c B o A
Wear
ij
200
150
100
50
Conclusions
fault /100 m2
6
9
4 5 8
10
3
Fig. 18. Average number of knitting faults, and knitting faults in the last month of manufacture
The above limits could serve as grading levels in yarn acceptance tests
and mills should require home spinners to supply yarns cleaned to such an
extent (even if at some overcharge, since processing of yarns of improved
quality increases significantly the output [16]).
References