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Rheology - Elementis Specialties
Rheology - Elementis Specialties
Rheology - Elementis Specialties
Pure in Cosmetics
1
"Modificadores reolgicos - aliados
importantes para la mejora del
performance en Personal Care
2
Rheology
Is the study of how materials deform and flow
3
Shear Stress
A= Area [m] F [N]
.
= Shear Rate = v/d [1/s] d [m]
Consider the liquid to be composed of thin layers. As the top layer moves under the
shear stress it pulls the underlying layer with it. This action is transmitted through all
the layers.
The velocity gradient is defined as shear rate.
5
Definition of Viscosity
Shear Stress ()
Viscosity () = . [Pas]
(Resistance to flow) Shear Rate ()
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Rheological Measurements
Rheograms / flow curves
Measuring devices
Rheometers
Viscometers (Brookfield)
7
Brookfield Viscometer Spindle /
Rotating Disk
8
Brookfield Measurement
Sample 1
Viscosity (Pa.s)
Sample 2
9
Shear Rate (1/s)
Rheometer
50 m gap
10
Din Cylinder
Flow Curve Measurement
Sample 1
Viscosity (Pas)
Sample 2
12
Thixotropy
13
Thixotropic vs Pseudoplastic
Viscosity recovery after force
0,1 s-1 0,1 s-1 Quick Recovery
(Pseudoplastic)
Viscosity (Pa s)
Slow Recovery
(Thixotropic)
1000 s-1
Time (s)
14
Thixotropy: Properties
15
Oscillation
Rotation
Rotation Oscillation
17
Viscoelasticity
Viscoelasticity
Ideal vs Real Materials
ideal-viscous Ideal-elastic
Mineral Oil Steel
- Deform irreversibly - Deform elastically
- They do not go back, - They spring back
they flow and exhibit unchanged
viscosity
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Viscoelasticity
Ideal vs Real Materials
Viscoelastic
Gum
Real materials show a
viscous (G) and an
elastic (G) component that
can be measured with
oscillation function of
G rheometer G
Visco-elastic continuum 19
Practical Meaning
The determination and the value/relation of G and G allow
a characterisation of a cosmetic formula:
20
Viscoelasticity / Stability
Salad dressing Olive oil Salad dressing Olive oil
Stable unstable
G > G G < G
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Measuring G and G
2
10
Pa
Stable G and G very close and G dominates
0
10
Gives insights
10
-1 into the structure
-2
of cosmetic
G'
10 formulations
-3
10 The large disparity between G & G,
with a low G, indicates poor structure
G''
10
-4
Data is useful to
-5 optimize a
10
formulation
-6
10
-7
Unstable much lower G
10
-8
10
0.1 1 10 1/s 100
Angular Frequency
G' Salad dressing G' Olive oil G'' Salad dressing G'' Olive oil
Factors effecting settling
velocity
Particle Suspending Medium
count density
size charge
shape yield point
density viscosity
charge
23
Yield Point
24
Exceed yield point . . .
Product begins
to flow
Yield Point =
Minimum Shear Stress needed to induce flow 25
Yield Point
Yield Point
Viscosity Pas
Pa
Honey 0 11.0
Ketchup 14 0.1
Mayonnaise 85 0.6
26
Summary
Viscosity ( or ) Aesthetics
Emulsion stability
Viscosity profile
(Thixotropy) Suspension
Easy application
Viscoelasiticity
Flow
FORMULATION PROPERTIES
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Summary
Viscosity ( or ) Aesthetics
Emulsion stability
Viscosity profile
(Thixotropy) Suspension
Easy application
Viscoelasiticity
Flow
FORMULATION PROPERTIES
28
Summary
Viscosity ( or ) Aesthetics
Emulsion stability
Viscosity profile
(Thixotropy) Suspension
Easy application
Viscoelasiticity
Flow
FORMULATION PROPERTIES
29
Summary
Viscosity ( or ) Aesthetics
Emulsion stability
Viscosity profile
(Thixotropy) Suspension
Easy application
Viscoelasiticity
Flow
FORMULATION PROPERTIES
30
Summary
Viscosity ( or ) Aesthetics
Emulsion stability
Viscosity profile
(Thixotropy) Suspension
Easy application
Viscoelasiticity
Flow
aqueous anhydrous
RHEOLUXE
BENTONE BENTONE GEL THIXCIN R
Associative
Hydrophilic clays Organophilic clays
thickeners
32
BENTONE / BENTONE GEL
Rheology modifiers derived from hectorite
Aqueous system = BENTONE EW, BENTONE MA
Anhydrous systems = BENTONE GEL - ready to use mastergels
BENTONE GEL VS-5 PC V HV in Cyclopentasiloxane
BENTONE GEL TN V in C12-C15 Alkyl Benzoate
BENTONE GEL ISD V in Isododecane
Thixotropic Flow
Shear thinning for easy application
Thermal Stability
Silky skin feel Equilibrium between Van der Waals attraction and
electrostatic repulsion
33
33
BENTONE Rheology of Hectorite Clays
1000
100
Viscosity [Pas]
10
0.1
0.01
0.001 0.01 0.1 1 10 100 1000 10000 100000
Shear Rate [s-1]
34
THIXCIN R
Flow control
Water-repellency in Lipsticks
Ecocert approved
35
RHEOLUXE
associative thickeners derived from polyurethane or polyether polyol
36
RHEOLOGY CONTRIBUTING TO STABILITY
37
Mascara - Temperature Stability
Mascara Mascara
no Organoclay + BENTONE GEL PTIS V
After a few days at room temperature the sample with no organoclay showed dramatic
phase separation, whereas the sample with BENTONE GEL PTIS V remained stable
38
Mascara - Temperature Rotation
1,000,000
Mascara
+ BENTONE GEL PTIS V
Viscosity cps
100,000
10, 000
1
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80
Temperature C
The sample with BENTONE GEL PTIS V gave a constant viscosity throughout
the temperature range 10 - 80 C
39
W/O Inorganic Sunscream - Stability
260
240
220
200
180
G
160
140
G
120
100
80
60
40
20
0
10 15 20 25 30 35 40 45 50 55 60 65 70 75 C 80
Temperature
W/O Suncream no BENTONE GEL W/O Suncream BENTONE GEL OP V
W/O Suncream BENTONE GEL IHD V W/O Suncream BENTONE GEL TN V
G > G constantly over the temperature range with use of BENTONE GEL products, indicating sun creams
stronger elastic behaviour than viscous behaviour, and good stability
Organoclay improves internal structure and formulation thermostability
41
W/O Inorganic Sunscream Frequency sweep
Frequency Sweep
1,200
Pa
1,100
1,000
900
800
700
G
600
G
500
400
300
200
100
0
0.1 1 10 1/s 100
Angular Frequency w
O/W Suncream no BENTONE GEL O/W Suncream BENTONE GEL OP V
O/W Suncream BENTONE GEL IHD V O/W Suncream BENTONE GEL TN V
Formulations with BENTONE GEL show higher G, as well as G and G difference, indicating system is
relatively undisturbed under gravity, shipping/handling, thus better suspending capability
Rheological data indicate good suspending offered by organoclay
42
RHEOLOGY CONTRIBUTING TO ENHANCED
PERFORMANCE
43
Cream layer right after application
Cream layer
Skin Surface
44
Cream layer after Sagging or Slumping
Reduced Protection
on Hill Tops
Cream layer
Skin Surface
Excessive Protection
in Valleys 45
UV
Cream layer containing
BENTONE GEL
Skin Surface
In-Vitro SPF
Formula with 38.9 23.3 15.5 44.7 13.2 30.4 14.2
organoclay
(BENTONE
GEL)
In-Vitro SPF
Formula 32.5 17.9 9.4 41.9 12.2 26.6 12.8
without
organoclay
47
Enhanced coverage
48
Anti-perspirant - suspension
49
RHEOLOGY CONTRIBUTING TO AFTER-FEEL,
SENSORY PERCEPTION
50
By adjusting the rheology of a system, working with its
texture, the sensorial experience can change
Skin protection
Anti-aging effect
51
Understanding impact in sensory
perception
Protocol: Basic formula was prepared using 04 types of rheology modifiers
52
Understanding impact in sensory perception
Viscosities:
53
Understanding impact in sensory perception
Linear Flowcurve
800000
cP
700000
650000
600000
550000
500000
450000
400000
350000
300000
250000
200000
150000
100000
50000
0
0.1 1 10 100 1/s 1000
Shear Rate
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Understanding impact in sensory perception
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Understanding impact in sensory perception
Most Soothing
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Understanding impact in sensory perception
8%
17% 14%
22%
24% 10%
44%
13%
9%
67%
48% 24%
57
Understanding impact in sensory perception
17% 14%
18%
22%
41%
45%
13%
27%
29%
58
Understanding influence of rheological
characteristics in sensory perception, stability
and performance is important to develop
successful products.
59
SUMMARY
aqueous anhydrous
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ELEMENTIS SPECIALTIES
Rheology leadership plus so much more
ELEMENTIS SPECIALTIES
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Global Footprint
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TRIALS IN LABORATORY
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ACONDICIONADOR CAPILAR POST
TRATAMIENTO
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CREMA FACIAL ANTIAGE
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TRATAMIENTO CAPILAR NUTRITIVO
68
HAIR MIST
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SHAMPOO SULFATE-FREE HIDRATANTE
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