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Sony Ps3 Controller
Sony Ps3 Controller
/topic/648322-ps3-controller-versions-and-tp-spots/
Here are the list of TP spots on the PS3 controllers, the most useful ones anyway, for anyone that
would want to make up an Arcade Stick, add an extra button or something similar.
Of the 17 versions of these controllers, that I know of, there are (so far anyway) 7 different TP layouts
for them. These are a general pic of the different layouts, what controller version they're on and what
they do.
NOTE: All of the TP spots are NOT shown in these pics, this is just for reference so you can tell which
controller you have at a glance and what TP spots are what on that version of controller.
These are for the USB Connector and they are the same on all versions of board, except the Asuka.
TP1 - 5v
TP2 - D-
TP3 - D+
TP4 - Ground
GND - Ground
Any of the MSUPP 4.0 versions that have the 3 legged POTs. The TP spots may or may not be tinned
with solder also.
MSUPP 4.0 (Page 2)
TP37 - [ ]
TP38 - O
TP39 - /\
TP41 - L2
TP42 - DD (D-pad Down)
TP43 - DR (D-pad Right)
TP44 - DU (D-pad Up)
TP25 - COM 1
TP26 - COM 2
TP32 - PS
TP33 - Start
TP34 - R3
TP35 - L3
TP36 - Select
TP38 - [ ]
TP39 - X
TP40 - O
TP41 - /\
TP42 - R1
TP43 - R2
TP45 - L1
TP46 - L2
TP47 - DL
TP48 - DD
TP49 - DR
TP50 - DU
There is no TP spot for the COM 3 line on this version of board, best place to use is one of the solder
joints of the L3/R3 buttons.
This is for the newer version of DS3 controller.
MSU_V3.5X
MSU_VX3
The TP spots for the buttons have all been removed from this board version, so that means hitting a Via
to attach wires, and they're about 1/3 the size of the ones in a 360 controller, so even if you're pretty
good at landing a wire on those you'll have to be a a lot more careful scraping down and landing one
on these things.
Right now this is probably the best spots to hit for an Arcade Stick or duplicate buttons, and until I use
this board for something they should suffice, so this part here may be updated after I've done some
more work on the board wiring it up to something and seeing which methods and spots work best.
They were nice enough to leave the COM1 and COM2 TP spots behind, though that hardly makes it
any easier if you were making an Arcade Stick from this version of board and it'll make building a
PS360 with this version of board a little more fun as well.
There isn't much in the way of useful TP spots, but here they are, and like all of the other versions of
controller the USB TP spots are still the same.
TP17 - COM1
TP18 - COM2
RST is the Reset or 'off' button on the bottom of the controller that pretty much no one uses I'd
imagine. The other side of it is Ground and any spot will work if you want to duplicate that button for
any reason.
MSU_VX3 (Page 2)
Again there is no TP spot for the COM3 line and the best place to use is one of the solder joints for the
L3/R3 buttons, or you can hit a Via for it if you like.
For any Arcade Stick builders using this board version, soldering to the Vias on these controllers isn't
exactly the easiest thing to do, flipping the board over and using the contacts for the Daughter board is
really the best option.
The black carbon material needs to be removed if these spots are to be used, and this can be done with
an X-acto knife or some fine sandpaper, just be careful and when you get to the shiny copper, STOP,
you're done. Tin it up with some solder and there are your spots to use. Try and use a 30awg wire, or
28awg at the largest, and make sure to secure the wiring with some hot glue after you make the
connection, but don't glue over the solder joint you just made, secure the wire to the board back from
the solder joint, in case you ever have to get to it again for any reason.
The Pull-Up Resistors (7.5k) also need to be put back in the circuit as they're built into the Daughter
board and when it's removed they're not, and the controller will act up on you if these are not in circuit,
why Sony decided to do this back with the PS2 controllers and carry it over to the PS3 is beyond me,
it's really lame. There needs to be 2 of these Pull-Up Resistors installed, one goes from V to COM1,
the other goes from V to COM2. If you don't have any 7.5k Resistors you can use anything from 6.8k
to 10k really, but they do need to be installed since the Daughter board is removed, and all of the PS3
controllers are setup this way and need those Pull-Ups if the Daughter board is removed.
MSU_VX4
Pretty much the same deal as the VX3 above, just a little different layout is all.
TP17 - COM1
TP18 - COM2
MSU_VX5
Pretty much the same deal as the VX3 and VX4 above, again just a little different layout.
TP8 - Rumble +
TP17 - COM1
TP18 - COM2
ASUKA REV: 1.06
As with earlier versions, there are no useful TP spots for any of the buttons, and just about every useful
Via on the bottom side of the board is gone from this controller as well, so you'll be going top side for
extra buttons on this one.
BOTTOM
TOP
ASUKA REV: 1.06 (Page 2)
T101 - COM1
T102 - COM2
T103 - LSX
T104 - LSY
T105 - RSX
T106 - RSY
T205 - D+ (USB)
T206 - D- (USB)
T207 - 5v (USB)
T501 - Rumble +
T504 - 2.8v (Standby)
T505 - 2.8v (Switched, Power for Sticks)
T506 - 2.8v (Switched, Power for Accelerometer)
T507 - LED + and V (Common Line for Home Button)
T508 - Battery +
T509 - GND
T510 - GND
T511 - GND
T512 - GND
MSU_VX6
Same as with the earlier versions, there are no useful TP spots for any of the buttons on the bottom of
the board. This version is pretty close to how the VX3, VX4 and VX5 were done.
TP2 - D- (USB)
TP3 - D+ (USB)
TP25 - Rumble +
TP29 - LED+
TP30 - Battery +
GND - GND
MSU_VX7
Die Einkerbung (Loch) rechts unten auf dem Chip zeigt an wo sich PIN 1 befindet.
PIN 20 = [] Viereck
PIN 21 = X
PIN 22 = O Kreis
PIN 23 = /\ Dreieck
MSU_VX8