modular

wine server
UCCESS
LS
A
T
TO

D
EE

GUARAN T

2012 August Home Publishing Co.

 Weekend Project

countertop Wine Rack

This simple project is functional, stylish, and easy to build. Its the
basis for even bigger and more versatile wine storage.
One thing that really attracted me to this wine rack is
its modular design. Besides the great stand-alone proj-
ect you see above, its just as easy to expand it into the
wine server or buffet that are described later.
But it isnt just for storing wine. You can use it as a
foundation for a number of storage options. Building
two or more of these basic units allows you to com-
bine them in different ways. For starters, you can
stack them one on top of another, or arrange them
side by side you can even do a combination of
both if youd like. By adding a new base for support
or altering the interior design, you can change the
function and appearance significantly.
The most interesting part of this countertop wine
rack is the interlocking gridwork of dividers that
separates the bottles of wine. At first glance, it looks
like a puzzle you might find in a toy store. But unlike
those puzzles, this grid is really quite easy to make
and assemble. And since the dividers arent glued
together, finishing all the parts is a snap.
But before you get to finishing the divider assembly,
youll need to build the case and base that holds it.

1 WoodsmithPlans.com WS15722 2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
 19!/8 12%/8 PANEL EDGING
G TOP 1 ( !/8" x #/4" stock)
D
Drill and countersink
from below for #6 x 1!/4" b. SIDE SECTION VIEW
Fh woodscrew 2 #/8" G #/8"
2 bevel bevel
D #/32" chamfer
%/8
17%/8 E B

TOP #/4
FRONT E
B TRIM !/4
CASE TOP TOP
A
PANEL Side A
FRONT
CASE SIDE rabbet TRIM
13%/16 (11 x 16%/8) PANEL F
SIDE
FRONT
TRIM c. #/4
13(/16 10#/4 G TOP
A D
CASE SIDE D
PANEL C
E
CASE BOTTOM
PANEL BOTTOM #/8
FRONT !/4
16%/8 TRIM #/8" bevel !/4
around
perimeter B
of top CASE TOP
a. !/4 PANEL
!/4 A
11 !/4
!/4 %/8
C !/4 C
F E 1
NOTE: Case panels are SIDE #/32" D
#/4" plywood. Case top FRONT
is 1"-thick hardwood D SIDE chamfer
TRIM !/2
SECTION VIEW FRONT SECTION VIEW

assemble the ends of the top and bottom panels (B, panel edging (D) that covers up the

Case
The basic component of the wine
cabinet is a 3/4" plywood case.
Youll be able to use this case as a
building block for different stor-
age options because of its adapt-
able design. You can see what Im
C) to fit. Then, before assembling
the case, cut a rabbet along the back
edge of the top and sides to accept
the 1/4" plywood back thatll be
added later (detail b).
For a simple and reliable way to
square things up when you assem-
ble the case, check out the Shop Tip
in the box below.
Panel Edging & Trim. With the case
assembled, youre ready to add the
plys on the top and bottom of the
sides, like you see in detail c. Then
you can add the trim pieces (E, F).
Youll notice in the drawing above
that the top and side trim form a lip
to keep the dividers in place, while
the bottom trim is flush with the
bottom panel (detail a).
Top. Next, you can make the top
(G). After cutting a 3/8" bevel along
all four edges, just screw it in place.

Shop Tip: A Square & Smooth Case

talking about in the drawing and
details above.
case joinery. The joinery for the case
is a simple tongue and dado, but
the key to the design is where the Square the Case. L-shaped corner
dadoes are located. Youll notice clamping squares (drawing at left)
that the top and bottom dadoes are ensure a 90 corner joint.
different distances from the ends of 90 Edge Strip Sanding Block. The
Clamping
each side (detail c). squares simple sanding block shown below
What this does is recess the bot- eliminates the possibility of cut-
tom to provide a space for a posi- ting into the plywood veneer when
tioning plate thats used when sanding the edging strip.
stacking another case on top. (You
Sandpaper
can see how this works by referring
to page 8). At the top, the panel sits
proud to allow for some hardwood Edging
90
edging that will cover up the plys,
as in detail c.
Once youve cut the dadoes in the
side panels (A), you can rabbet the

2 WoodsmithPlans.com WS15722 2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
 BACK
VERTICAL H J CENTER VERTICAL SLATS NOTE: Slats are made

making the
SLATS from hardwood
planed to fit notches

I HORIZONTAL

Dividers
SLAT
I

J
CENTER
At first glance, the divider assem- VERTICAL
SLAT
bly shown at right appears more
difficult to build than it actually
is. But its really nothing more
than making a few different size
slats and then cutting identical
notches in each one.
J
Solid Assembly . The notches are I 3!/2
CENTER
the key to forming a solid assembly VERTICAL SLAT 3#/4 HORIZONTAL
SLAT
when you fit the dividers together. !/2
For a good, tight fit, youll need FRONT VERTICAL SLATS H
to accurately locate and size each 2
notch. But dont worry, there are 11#/4
3!/2 1
a couple tips to ensure that every- 1 I
thing comes out just right. 4&/8 HORIZONTAL
SLAT !/2
Cutting the Notches. The table saw 4&/8
and a dado blade make quick work 3!/2 3#/4 3!/2 3!/2 3#/4
of cutting identically sized notches. 16
You can learn more about getting a H VERTICAL SLAT
perfect fit between the notches and
slats by making a test notch and
then planing your stock to match. auxiliary fence to prevent chipout. Divider Assembly. Once you have all
To ensure that the locations of all Another good tip to help accurately the notches cut, assemble the divid-
the notches shown in the drawing reference the bottom of each slat is ers and make a test fit in the case.
at right are consistent, its a good to use the rip fence as a stop. After making any tweaks for a
idea to make a reference mark on I know, youre usually told not smooth sliding fit, disassemble the
the bottom of each slat before you to use the rip fence and the miter dividers and set them aside until
start. You can see how I did below. gauge at the same time. But the youre ready to apply a finish.
Youll also see a couple other cuts you make for each notch All thats left to do at this point to
handy tips in the drawings for dont go all the way through the complete the wine rack is build the
cutting clean, crisp notches like workpiece so its okay to do base and add the back that keeps the
backing up the workpiece with an this, its perfectly safe. divider assembly in place.

How-To: Interlocking Notches

3!/2
H I
HORIZONTAL Miter
Aux. fence gauge
!/2"dado SLAT Center
blade 3#/4 3#/4 notches
Top
a. !/2 notch
H
H

1 !/2"dado
END !/2" dado Aux. fence
VIEW blade
blade backs up cut

Slat Bottom Notches. Cut notches at the Notches. Notch the top of the vertical front Horizontal Slat Center Notch. Finally, cut the
bottom of the vertical front and back slats as and back, vertical center slats, and top and center notches of each of the horizontal slats at
well as the vertical center slats. bottom of horizontal slats. the centerline of the slat.

3 WoodsmithPlans.com WS15722 2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
completing the
L BACK
Case APRON
1#/4
M K
BASE PANEL

Base
(11" x 17")

1#/4

K
#8 x 1!/2"
FRONT Fh woodscrew
APRON
18 12
The wine rack sits on a base made
by wrapping hardwood aprons
L
around a plywood panel. This NOTE: Rails are made from
#/4"hardwood, base panel SIDE
provides a stable support for set- is made from #/4" plywood APRON
ting the rack on a countertop, a
tabletop, or anywhere else you a. #/16 b. Case front
might want to locate it. trim
!/4"
#8 x 1!/2" Case chamfer
Aprons . I started on the base by Fh woodscrew side #/16
cutting the front/back (K) and side
aprons (L) to final width. But I left M !/2 M
BASE PANEL BASE PANEL
them a little long. This way, I could !/4
cut them for a perfect fit later. !/4 2 K
FRONT SIDE
To join the aprons to the panel, FRONT L SECTION
SECTION VIEW APRON VIEW
youll need to cut a groove along the SIDE
APRON
top inside edge of each apron (see
drawing above). Then to match the
look of the front trim, chamfer the wrap it around the base panel, ADD the back. All thats left to com-
top outside edge of each apron, like and then glue it in place. plete the wine rack is to cut the back
you see in detail a. Attach the Base. Attaching the base panel (N) to size from 1/4" plywood.
Base Panel. The next step is to cut to the case is just a matter of screw- The back is held in place with
the base panel (M) to final size. Then ing it from the bottom, as shown in screws, but no glue. This way, you
cut a rabbet along each edge of the details a and b above. Just dont can remove it any time youd like.
panel, sneaking up on the fit until tighten the screws too much. Since Apply the finish . Before attaching
the tongue just slips into the grooves you dont need the positioning the back, youll want to apply a fin-
you cut in the aprons. plates for the wine rack, tightening ish to all the parts. Then, reassemble
To complete the base, all you need the screws too much can pull the the dividers and slip it in place (see
to do is miter each apron piece, bottom down and bow the case. photo below). Finally, screw the back
on and youre ready to slip your
wine bottles in place.
a.
!/4

Top
panel
N
BACK PANEL

N
BACK
PANEL
13%/16 !/4

2 #6 x #/4"
!/2 Fh
woodscrew
Bottom
panel

17#/8

{ Installing the Dividers. Since the dividers are not glued

NOTE: Back panel is SIDE together its easy to apply the finish. And after assembly,
made from !/4" plywood SECTION VIEW they slide straight into the case from the back.

4 WoodsmithPlans.com WS15722 2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
Designer Series Project

In many projects, the first thing

you have to do is decide on the
size. For example, with a bed-
room dresser, you can build a
small version or a larger style.
Either way, once youve com-
pleted it, you cant change it.
But thats not the case with this
modular wine server.
Here, Istarted small using
a pair of cases from the coun-
tertop wine rack as a building
block. After adding a base and
some wineglass holders, I had
a complete project.
But if your home needs a
change or your wine collection
grows, this server can grow
right along with it. You can
even rearrange the layout of the
inside of the cases. For some
inspiration, take a look at the
photos on the following pages.

modular
Wine Server
5 WoodsmithPlans.com WS15722 2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
 OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 19!/8W x 12%/8D x 36!/8"H

Solid wood top features

Cases can be beveled-edge detail
fitted with wine-
glass holders,
drawers, or
shelves Make wineglass holders
yourself (see page 11) or
buy them

Removable
plywood back Glass holders
allows insert cradle base
to be slipped of wine glasses
in place

Shelf pin holes

for optional shelf FRONT SECTION VIEW - TOP

Hardwood edging
disguises plywood edge
Interlocking insert
holds up to 12
bottles of wine

Plywood plates
register cases Server features
for stacking easy-to-cut
tongue and
dado joinery

Heavy-duty legs Chamfer on base

are laminated matches bevel
for extra strength on top

FRONT SECTION VIEW - BASE

Sturdy, knock-down base

can be easily modified
to make a wide buffet,
see photo at right

The wine server can be expanded to >

make a larger buffet. To find out how
to do this, turn to page 10.

6 WoodsmithPlans.com WS15722 2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
 A
CROSS TIE C D
SIDE
RAIL
BACK
RAIL F 6

A 2 a. #/4 FRONT
LEG !/4 SECTION VIEW
B
FILLERS
11 A !/2 F
B
1!/4 !/4
C CROSS TIE
D FRONT 2!/2
LEG A C CROSS TIE
RAIL !/4
FILLERS LEG
F
B FACE B LEG FILLERS
2!/4 D
SIDE RAIL

B A
LEG
b. 12
LEG
FILLERS 6!/2 FACE
A
NOTE: Leg faces and fillers, rails, and
LEG 8 cross ties are made from #/4"-thick hardwood
FACE

building the
Back CROSS
leg TIE
3 assembly
Front leg

Knock-Down Base
assembly

Although the main parts of the wine
server are the two plywood cases,
the real key to this modular system
is the knock-down base.
As I mentioned before, every-
thing about this project is designed
to let you customize it any way you
want and still be able to change
it later. The base is no exception.
If you take a look at the drawing
above, you can see that this is no
ordinary construction.
The advantage of the base is, if
you want to convert the server into
something larger down the road,
you can. All youll need to do at that
point is make a set of long rails and
a new base panel.
Before tackling the base, its a
good idea to build the cases and top.
This way, you can fine-tune the base
for a perfect match. To build those,
take a look at the detailed instruc-
tions starting on page 1.
The challenge to building the
base is to make it sturdy when its
assembled, and still be easy to take
apart. To do that, Ibuilt the base
in three sections two hardwood
ends, and a plywood middle sec-
tion. All it takes to disassemble it is
to remove a few screws.
End Assemblies. Depending on the
size of the project, the base will
have to support a fair of amount of
weight. Thats the job of the ends.

How-To: Leg Construction

Bevel rip
face to
Aux. width
fence
Clamp #/4" Leg faces blank
plywood
spacer
to fence
Leg faces blank Leg face blank
Tilt blade 45

a. END VIEW a. a. 3
Dado 1!/4 45
blade
!/4
!/4

Cut Dadoes. On an extra-large blank (four leg Top Dado. Without changing the fence, Bevel the Blank. Angle the blade 45 to rip the
faces per blank), cut dadoes for the cross tie. This insert a plywood spacer to cut the upper faces to size. After making one cut, flip the piece
will ensure that the dadoes will line up. dado for the base panel. end-for-end and make the second cut.

7 WoodsmithPlans.com WS15722 2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
 Case
a. Case bottom 10#/4
The parts that make up each end panel
16!/8 G
interlock for solid support. PLATE PLATE
G
Heavy-Duty Legs. It starts with the
legs, as you can see in the draw-
ing on page 7. The outside faces of
#6 x %/8" Fh woodscrew
the legs are mitered around a thick FRONT SECTION Case top
filler. The boxes that run along the VIEW panel
(Stacked Cases)
bottom of pages 7 and 8 shows
Case
how theyre made.
Connecting the legs at each end b. !/4 SIDE
SECTION VIEW
is a cross tie that slips into dadoes Bottom PLATE G Drill and
front countersink
cut in the leg faces. A side rail trim holes for
is then glued to the cross tie (as !/4 !/2
#6 x %/8" Fh
E woodscrew
seen in details a and b on page F 2
G
7). The result is a rigid unit that FRONT Drill and 2
RAIL PLATE
wont flex under pressure. All that Leg #8 x 1!/4 countersink
BACK
Fh woodscrew holes for F
remains for the base is to connect assembly #8 x 1!/4" Fh RAIL
woodscrews
the two end assemblies. 1#/4 2
Completing the base. The way the
E BASE PANEL
ends are joined is similar to the c. (11" X 17")
FRONT
way the legs are connected to each SECTION VIEW
#/16
other. But theres an important dif- PLATE G F FRONT RAIL 1#/4
ference. It starts with a plywood
panel that has tongues cut along all 12
E
four edges to fit in the upper dado Leg
assembly
Leg
cut in the legs, as shown in details assembly #/4
Leg
b and c at right. NOTE: Cleats are made from !/4"
assembly
plywood, base panel is made from
The difference is that instead of #/4" plywood. Rails are made from
gluing the plywood panel in place, #/4"-thick hardwood
Iattached it with screws, as you can
see in the drawing. Using screws The front and back edges of the Assembly . Finally, you can stack
makes the base easy to take apart base are covered by a pair of hard- the cases on the base. To keep them
and reuse for a larger project in the wood rails. Besides covering the from sliding around, Iscrewed a 1/4"
future. (All you need to make is a plywood edges, the rails prevent plywood plate to both the
larger plywood panel and new front the base from sagging. Just be sure base and lower case (details
and back rails.) to glue the rails to the base only. a and b).
2

A
Cut to waste
LEG side
FACE of curve LEG CURVE TEMPLATE
ENLARGE 200%

A
LEG
Rabbeted FACE
key block

Scrap
block

B LEG FILLERS

Glue Up Leg Faces. A waxed, rab- Glue in Leg Fillers. Next, glue leg fill- Cut to Shape. Use the tem-
beted key and spacer keeps the leg ers to the faces to complete the blank. plate at right to cut the leg,
faces square as they are glued up. Then square up the edges. then sand it smooth.

8 WoodsmithPlans.com WS15722 2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
 HALF
GLASS HOLDER NOTE: To make
H glass holders,
see page 11 HALF
a. #/4 H GLASS H GLASS
HOLDER HOLDER
1

10#/4 Case top

H
1 panel
H
1 1
4!/2" from
Shelf bottom panel 2#/4 1!!/16
pin
H !/8
K HALF SHELF 2#/4 !/4 1!!/16
GLASS
(6"x 16") HOLDER Drill and countersink 1!/8
J holes for #6 x 1!/2"
SHELF Fh woodscrews FRONT SECTION VIEW
I EDGING
FULL SHELF
(10!/2" x 16")
J SHELF EDGING b. FRONT
SECTION VIEW
Case
NOTE: Shelves are made from side
#/4"plywood. Edging is !/4"-thick
hardwood. Glass holder is I K
1"-thick hardwood !/4

adding a
Shelf
pin !/2

Shelf or Glass Holders Two Shelves. The second option to

Now that the base is complete, all
that remains is to outfit the inside
of the cases. In addition to the wine
bottle divider shown on page 3, the
drawings on this page show you
four other options wineglass
holders, two different shelves, and
a drawer. Since the backs of the
cases are only screwed on, its easy
to install one option and switch to
another down the road.
wineglass holders. The wineglass
holders are designed to cradle the
base of the glasses, as in detail a
above. Making the holders is a sim-
ple table saw task. To find out how,
turn to page 11. Pre-made holders
are also available.
consider is adding a shelf. But in
order to do that, youll need to drill
some holes in the case to hold the
shelf support pins. I drilled three
columns of holes to accommodate
two shelf sizes. In the drawing
above, you can see each shelf is
nothing more than a small plywood
panel with some edging.
Finally, you can add a drawer,
which is detailed below.

#6 x %/8" Fh
woodscrew
P
Option: Hanging Drawer
DRAWER NOTE: Drawer front
15 BACK 10!/2 is #/4"-thick hardwood. b.
Sides, back, and drawer !/4
M N DRAWER TOP VIEW
10#/4 guides are !/2"-thick
SIDE
2!/2 stock. Drawer bottom !/4
is !/4" plywood !/2 M DRAWER
O BACK
DRAWER BOTTOM
1 (10" x 15")
P
DRAWER N
GUIDE DRAWER
N L SIDE
DRAWER DRAWER
SIDE FRONT
15!/2
3" drawer c. !/4
pull P

a. N 1 #/16
!/2 DRAWER DRAWER
SIDE For the wine server, Ibuilt a pretty simple drawer box 1!#/16 SIDE
with a sturdy, locking rabbet at the front and simpler, !/2
N
O
!/4
tongue and dado at the back (details a and b). Before 1
!/4 !/2 L assembling the drawer, I cut a centered groove in each
#/4 FRONT !/4
DRAWER side. The sides ride on drawer guides that have a lip SECTION ply.
FRONT !/4
along the bottom edge, as shown in detail c. Once VIEW
TOP VIEW !/4
installed, the guide is hidden by the cases front trim.

9 WoodsmithPlans.com WS15722 2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
The biggest advantage of the wine
server is that the individual cases can
be adapted to different configurations.
The same goes for its size.
The photo at right and the draw-
ing below show a larger buffet ver-
sion. Besides adding four additional
cases (how you arrange the inside is
up to you), all youll need to do is make
a few new parts. First, youll need a
new, longer hardwood top. Then make
an extended plywood base and a pair
of front and back rails. The dimensions
for these are shown below. The end leg
assemblies remain the same.
Server to Buffet
Like the server, the buffet version
uses 1/4" plywood plates to keep each
of the cases in place (detail below).

Plates keep stacked

cases in place

10 WoodsmithPlans.com WS15722 2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
 Making the Hangers
Although you can buy wineglass
hangers from commercial sources,
you are limited in the choices of
wood the hangers are made from.
Since our cabinet was built out of
cherry, we decided to make our own
hangers out of cherry to match.
NO JIG REQUIRED. As you can see in
the How-To section below, all thats
really required to make both the
single-sided and the double-sided
hangers other than some 1"-thick (thus, single-sided), so they only sure the waste is on the outside of
stock is a table saw. need one side cut. the saw blade (see middle drawing
My goal was to make the angles I then lowered the blade and below). Otherwise, the waste may
of the hangers fit the wineglass re-set the angle to 90. After get pinched between the saw blade
stemware. First, I set my table saw adjusting the fence, I ran all the and the fence and shoot back at you
fence, raised the saw blade to the stock through to remove the like a missile.
right height, and angled the blade, waste. Then, I turned all but the CUTTING END HANGERS. You cant
as you can see in detail a below. I two end pieces around and ran just cut a two-sided hanger down
then ran all the stock through. them through this saw setup (see the middle to get the end pieces,
After the first cuts were made, middle drawing below). Be care- because you wouldnt have enough
I flipped all but two of the stock ful not to put too much pressure wood to drive a screw into it. To
pieces end-over-end and ran them alongside the fence, or the blank complete the end pieces, I set the
through the saw setup again. The might tip and lift off the saw table. saw fence to cut away the waste off
remaining two stock pieces will SAFETY NOTE. When removing waste the center line, as in the drawing
eventually become the end hangers from a notch type of cut, make below on the far right.

How-To: Wineglass Hangers

a.

Taper Cut. Set the fence at 5 8 " and raise the blade Remove Waste. Avoid pinching waste Make End Hangers. The cut to make
to 1" high and at a 7 angle to make the first cuts between the blade and the fence, or the the end hangers is off-center to give you
for the wineglass hangers. waste becomes a potential missile. enough wood to screw into.

11 WoodsmithPlans.com WS15722 2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
Materials, Supplies, & Cutting Diagram
Countertop Wine Rack
A Case Side Panels (2) #/4 ply. - 11 x 13%/16 J Divider Center Vertical Slats (3) !/2 x 4&/8 - 11#/4
B Case Top Panel (1) #/4 ply. - 11 x 16%/8 K Base Front/Back Aprons (2) #/4 x 2 - 18
C Case Bottom Panel (1) #/4 ply. - 10#/4 x 16%/8 L Base Side Aprons (2) #/4. x 2 - 12
D Side Panel Edging (4) !/8 x #/4 - 11 M Base Panel (1) #/4 ply. - 11 x 17
E Case Top/Bottom Front Trim (2) !/2 x 1 - 17%/8 N Back Panel (1) !/4 ply. - 13%/16 x 17#/8
F Case Sides Front Trim (2) !/2 x 1 - 13(/16 (6) #8 x 1!/2" Fh Woodscrews
G Top (1) 1 x 12%/8 - 19!/8 (12) #6 x #/4" Fh Woodscrews
H Divider Front/Back Vertical Slats (6) !/2 x 2 - 11#/4
I Divider Horizontal Slats (4) !/2 x 4&/8 - 16
!/2 " x 6!/2" - 72" Cherry (3.3 Sq. Ft.)

I I I I

E F
#/4" x 5" - 36" Cherry (1.3 Bd. Ft.)
K L
K L #/4" - 24" x 48" Cherry Plywood !/4" - 24" x 24" Cherry Plywood

D
!/2 " x 6 !/2" - 60" Cherry (2.7 Sq. Ft.) A B M
N
H H
J J J H H
H H

A C
1" x 5" - 60" Cherry (2.6 Bd. Ft.)
G G G

12 WoodsmithPlans.com WS15722 2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
Materials, Supplies, & Cutting Diagram
Modular Wine Server
A Leg Faces (8) #/4 x 3 - 8 M Drawer Back (1) !/2 x 2!/2 - 15
B Leg Fillers (12) #/4 x 2!/4 - 6!/2 N Drawer Sides (2) !/2 x 2!/2 - 10!/2
C Cross Ties (2) #/4 x 2!/2 - 11 O Drawer Bottom (1) !/4. ply. - 10 x 15
D Side Rails (2) #/4 x 2 - 6 P Drawer Guides (2) !/2 x 1!#/16 - 10#/4
E Base Panel (1) #/4 ply. - 11 x 17
F Front/Back Rails (2) #/4 x 2 - 12 (6) #8 x 1!/4" Fh Woodscrews
G Plates (2) !/4 ply. - 10#/4 x 16!/8 (8) #6 x %/8" Fh Woodscrews
H Glass Holders (5) 1 x 2#/4 - 10#/4 (6 Per Optional Drawer) #6 x %/8" Fh Woodscrews
I Full Shelf (1) #/4 ply. - 10!/2 x 16 (15) #6 x 1!/2" Fh Woodscrews For Glass Holders
J Shelf Edging (1 Per Shelf) !/4 x #/4 - 16 (4 Per Optional Shelf) !/4" Spoon-style Shelf Pins
K Half Shelf (1) #/4. ply. - 6 x 16 (1 Per Optional Drawer) 3"Drawer Pull w/Screws
L Drawer Front (1) #/4 x 2!/2 - 15!/2

#/4" x 7!/2" - 60" Cherry (3.2 Bd. Ft.) #/4" - 24" x 48" Cherry Plywood
A A A A B B B B
B B B B K
A A A A E
B B B B

#/4" x 7" - 36" Cherry (1.8 Bd. Ft.)

C D F
C D F
L I
J
1" x 6" - 36" Cherry (1.9 Bd. Ft.)
H H H
!/4" - 24" x 48" Cherry Plywood
H H

!/2" x 3" - 60" Cherry (1.3 Sq. Ft.) G O

N N M P P

13 WoodsmithPlans.com WS15722 2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
 mail Project Sources
order
sources It wont take a lot of hardware to
build the wine server. Besides
Woodsmith Store some screws, youll need a few
800-444-7527
other things. The shelf pins
Rockler (22765) and drawer pull (30066)
800-279-4441 came from Rockler. You should
rockler.com
be able to find similar items avail-
able locally as well.
If you dont plan on making the
wineglass molding, you can pur-
chase some from Rockler. The
number is 22210 for a 36 piece.
One thing to know, however, is
that its only available in red oak.

14 WoodsmithPlans.com WS15722 2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.