PROJECT BY

R. PRIYADHARSINI
B.SC (FD).
INDIAN EMBROIDERIES: THREADS THAT WEAVE
TOGETHER THE FABRIC OF INDIA

Blessed with a myriad of cultures, customs and religions, India is

truly a land of wonders. And one of the greatest treasures of the
country is its art and crafts. Be it dance, music or paintings this
melting pot of cultures has given us some of the best art and craft
forms that are envied the world over. One such craft is the Indian
embroidery a diverse yet distinct testimony of our rich cultural
heritage.

Influenced by the various cultures that India has imbibed through

innumerable invasions and settlements, embroidery from every
region has a flavour of its own. So much so that you can name the
state embroidery is from just by looking at it. Be it the robust hand
work of Gujarat or the subtle and intricate weaves of UPs
Chikankari, each embroidery stands out for its unique style of stitches
and use of fabrics and colours. Nurtured in the hinterlands of India
by humble craftsmen, Indian embroideries, today, have the world
fawning over them. While India boasts of a zillion embroidery styles,
we have handpicked some that have been inspiring generations of
designers from across the world.
 1. Chikankari

From the land of Tehzeeb and Nazaquat, Lucknow,

Chikankari is a delicate and intricate embroidery style that
is believed to have been introduced by Nur Jehan, the wife
of Mughal emperor Jahangir. While the art flourished
under the patronage of the Mughals, references to the art
have been found as early as the 3rd century BC with
Megasthenes mentioning the use of flowered muslins by
Indians. A chikan piece is created by block printing
patterns on it. Craftsmen then embroider stitches along the
pattern, and the finished piece is later washed to remove
traces of the prints. Traditionally, Chikankari began as a
type of white-on-white embroidery, but today the craft uses
a variety of fabrics and colours. From white thread
embroidered on soothing pastels to coloured silk threads,
Chikankari has evolved into an art for those with a taste for
the finer things.
2. Kantha

One of the traditional embroidery styles practised in Bengal

and Odisha, Kantha work is known for its simplicity.
Traditionally practised by rural women, Kantha was done
on soft dhotis and sarees, with a simple running stitch along
the edges. Interestingly, the thread used to do that was
drawn from the border threads of the used cloth.
Characterised by motifs of birds, animals, flowers and
everyday activities in a running stitch format with short
gaps, the Kantha embroidery today adorns sarees, dress
materials, bed covers, wall hangings, upholstery and a lot
more.
3. Phulkari

If not as famous as sarson da saag and makke di roti,

Punjabs Phulkari is definitely the second most famous thing
that comes to the mind when you think of this state. As the
name suggests, Phulkari is the embroidery of flower motifs
on fabric. Traditionally practised by women of the house as
a pastime, this embroidery is quite a unique one. The
stitches are embroidered on the reverse of the cloth so that
the design takes shape in the front. The fabric used is
usually a hand-spun or natural-dyed khadi cloth. The
contrast of bright colours on a lighter coloured fabric is
what makes this embroidery stand out.
4. Zardozi

An ancient art of sewing gold and silver threads on a

fabric, Zardozi comes from the land of Persia. Embroidery
that was once used to embellish royal garments, the art
flourished in the 17th century during the rule of Mughal
emperor Akbar. Original Zardozi work used gold and silver
threads as well as pearls and precious stones, and the choice
of fabrics too had to be royal. Hence, plush velvets and rich
silks complemented this rich embroidery. However, todays
Zardozi work uses a combination of copper wire with silver
or golden polish and silk threads. But that hasnt taken
away from the royal feel of the craft, as Zardozi lehengas
and sarees are every Indian brides favourite!
5. Rajasthani patchwork

Amidst a sea of sand and never-ending arid land, the

Rajasthani people, with their bright colourful clothes stand
out like a green oasis. Besides a host of sophisticated arts
and crafts this state is famous for, the rustic charm of
Rajasthani patchwork never fails to impress. Its a basic
craft that stitches together small pieces of cloth in a
decorative pattern to form the topmost layer of the piece
with layers of cloth padding underneath. And voila! You
have a treat for the eyes.
6. Kashidakari

Kashidakari, more popularly known as Kashmiri

embroidery, evolved under the patronage of Persian and
Mughal rulers. While not much is known about the origins
of this craft, legend has it that a Persian Sufi saint brought
the skill to Kashmir. What started as a skilled craft soon
became a source of domestic employment as farming in the
harsh winters was not possible. Inspired by the scenic locales
of Kashmir, Kashidakari draws heavily from the flora of
the state. However, human and animal figures are not a
part of this style of embroidery. A unique feature of
Kashidakari is the Kashmiri tea pot. Known for its simple
chain stitches, this embroidery done mostly on silk and wool
is a global rage.
7. Aari

One of the most famous forms of Kashmiri embroidery that

deserves a special mention is Aari. Aari embroidery, also
known as crewel work, is a speciality of Kashmiri artisans.
Created in fine, concentric rings of chain stitch using a long
hooked needle called the crewel, it is a form of very fine
embroidery that involves elaborate and intricate floral
motifs favoured by the royals.
8. Mirror work

Mirror work, also known as shisha, is a popular craft from

Gujarat and Rajasthan. The Mughal Empire saw the first
forms of this art in the 17th century. Available in three
types (hand blown shisha, machine
cut shisha and shisha embroidery), this craft stands out
because of its use of mirrors and colourful threads. This
embroidery is created by using small pieces of mirrors of
various shapes and sizes, stitched in between colourful
embroidery. While clothes embellished with mirror work are
must-haves for Navratri festivities, this type of work also
adorns bags, accessories, decorative pieces and home decor.