THE MALL BANGKAPI. CHATUCHAK WEEKEND MARKET. RAMKHAMHAENG SOI 89/2. SOI COWBOY. UNDERSTAND. OVERCHARGE. DMK.

PHAYA THAI. DRINK IN YOUR HAND. H1. CONTACT. SUNRISE/SUNSET. CHATUCHAK WEEKEND MARKET. DAO TAI. SAPAN HUA CHANG.
QUEEN SAOVABHA INSTITUTE SNAKE FARM. BOOKAZINE. WAT PHO. CULTURE. BY BOAT. NANA ENTERTAINMENT PLAZA. SAM YAN.
CHINESE FOOD. BY TRAIN. WAT PHO. SOI PATPONG. ORIENTAL. CHAKPHET ROAD. EMPORIUM. RATCHADAPHISEK. ENTERTAINMENT. EMPIRE
TOWER. WAT INTHARAWIHAN. PHRA PIN KLAO BRIDGE. BOSSY CLUB. COOKING SCHOOLS. RIVER CITY. SATHORN (TAKSIN). MEMORIAL
BRIDGE. WANG LANG. GRAND PALACE. BY PUBLIC TRANSIT. FLUIDS. PRASAN MIT. SLEEP. AIRPORTS. KINOKUNIYA. BAN BAT. KRUNG
THONBURI. GET IN. SOI ARI SAMPHAN. EVENTS. BANGLAMPHU MARKET. 113. EAT. OUT OF THE BLUE. 53. EKKAMAI. DRINK. HUALAMPHONG
TRAIN STATION. TOM YAM KUNG. MAJOR FINANCIAL CENTER. TEMPLES. MID-RANGE. SILOM. DON MUANG AIRPORT. WAT ARUN. WAT
TRAIMIT. DINNER CRUISES. MULTICULTURAL COMMUNITIES. SAEN SAEP EXPRESS BOAT. WHAT TO DO IF YOU FALL FOR THE GEM SCAM.
INDIAN AND MIDDLE EASTERN. THA TIEN. KHLONG TOEY PORT. BUY. CHAO PHRAYA EXPRESS BOAT. CP TOWER. PARKS AND MONUMENTS.
COPE. GET OUT. GO-GO AND BEER BARS. CRIME. BY BOAT. LITERATURE. PRATUNAM. WAT MAI CHONG LOM. TRANSVESTITE SHOWS.
BANG KAPI. GET OUT. EXPRESS LINE. WAT RATCHANADDA. WAT ARUN. CHONG NONSI. NARAI PHAND. RATCHAPRAROP. BICYCLE TOURS.
SKYTRAIN. PANFA LEELARD. DRINK. GET IN. BY BOAT. WAT SRIBOONREUNG. ORIENTAL. BANYAN TREE. CHIT LOM. DUSIT PALACE. ASOK.
THA CHANG. UNDERSTAND. CHATUCHAK WEEKEND MARKET. MBK CENTER. HOUSES OF WORSHIP. SHEBA'S. BUDGET. 15. PRATUNAM.
WAT PHRA KAEW. RAMKHAMHAENG. DUSIT PALACE. DUSIT PALACE. THA CHANG. WAT MAHA PHRUETTHARAM. GET OUT. YAOWARAT
AND PHAHURAT. SIAM CENTER. SIROCCO. QSNCC. HUALAMPHONG TRAIN STATION. WAT PHO. WAT ARUN. ROADSIDE STALLS. VTBD.

BANGKOK
DO. CENTRAL PLAINS. NANA ENTERTAINMENT PLAZA. GRAND PALACE. ORANGE AIR-CON. CHARRN ISSARA. AIRPORT RAIL LINK. SOI
TWILIGHT. MCDONALD'S. EAT. SILOM LINE. BOBAE MARKET. MUAY THAI. SEE. SUKHUMVIT. PRATUNAM. KHAO SAN ROAD. BUY. KHAO SAN
ROAD. BALCONY. PRATUNAM. CHATUCHAK WEEKEND MARKET. OTHER TEMPLES. KHLONG TOEY PORT. BANG SUE TRAIN STATION. BY
PUBLIC TRANSIT. EAT. SOI ARI. ANANTASAMAKHOM THRONE HALL. BY BUS. NANA ENTERTAINMENT PLAZA. SEE. ETHNIC CUISINE. GET
AROUND. SAEN SAEP EXPRESS BOAT. TELEPHONE BAR. BUY. PHAHURAT ROAD. SHINAWATRA TOWER III. THAI. STREET MARKET. GET
IN. NGAM DUPHLI. BY PUBLIC TRANSIT. DO. ARI. LUMPHINI PARK. NOTE. THE MALL RAM. COFFEE WORLD. SPORTS BARS. BAAN DON
MOSQUE. DON MUANG TRAIN STATION. EASTERN BUS TERMINAL. ITALTHAI. STATE TOWER. BY SHIP. ROYAL CITY AVENUE. BUY. AIRPORT
RAIL LINK. VERTIGO AND MOON BAR. WIRELESS. RATCHADAMNOEN STADIUM. 59. CHAROEN KRUNG ROAD. THE MALL BANGKAPI. PHRA
RATCHA BANLANG PRADAP MUK. UOMASA. BTS SKYTRAIN. SAEN SAEP EXPRESS BOAT. PHLOEN CHIT ROAD. ORIENT THAI. SPLURGE.
SUKHUMVIT LINE. ITF TOWER. TEMPLE OF THE RECLINING BUDDHA. SAEN SAEP EXPRESS BOAT. SOI ARAB. ZEN. AMARIN WINICHAI HALL.
CONTACT. WONGWIAN YAI STATION. EAT. SAPHAN TAKSIN. BANGLAMPHUBON POST OFFICE. OR TOR KOR. ASSUMPTION UNIVERSITY.
FURTHER DESTINATIONS. RACHAWONGSE. CHATUCHAK WEEKEND MARKET. MO CHIT. BED SUPPERCLUB. WONGWIAN YAI. THE QUEENS
BIRTHDAY CELEBRATION. RACHAWONGSE. SIAM CENTER. HOT SEASON. MAIL. SEE. METRO. RATTANAKOSIN. DRINK. 4. SIAM OCEAN
WORLD. EASTERN COURTYARD. PAK KHLONG TALAT. PHAHONYOTHIN. TRANSPORTATION. WAT MAI CHONGLOM. DJ STATION. FOOD

CUSTOM TRAVEL GUIDE

COURTS. MUSEUM OF SIAM. BUDGET. CITY LINE. TELEPHONE. KAMPHAENG PHET. LUMPHINI PARK. SIAM SQUARE. LEARN. MEDICAL
TOURISM. WAT RATCHAPRADIT. AIRPORT RAIL LINK. VIMANMEK MANSION. 4. SOI COWBOY. PHAHURAT ROAD. ASOKE-PETCHABURI.
PRASANMIT. 40. ANIMAL ABUSE. GEOGRAPHY. OVERVIEW. SNAKE TONIC. 554. PRATUNAM. 58. BAR FINE. SOI COWBOY. SUVARNABHUMI
AIRPORT. TROOPING OF THE COLOURS. COOKING. STREET MARKETS. PATPONG. NOK AIR. WAT PHRA KAEW. CHAO PHRAYA EXPRESS
FROM APRIL 26 UNTIL APRIL 29, 2014
BOAT. CONTACT. BY TAXI. SOI ARI. BY TAXI. PANFA LEELARD. AIRPORT RAIL LINK. BUDGET. SOI KASEMSAN 1. SAMPENG LANE. RCA PLAZA.
SEPARATE ENTRY FEE. SUNDAY APRIL 27. WAT PHRA CHETUPHON. EAT. EAT. HUALAMPHONG TRAIN STATION. NIGHT MARKET. LADYBOY.
SILOM SOI 2 AND 4. KHLONG TOEY. THONG LO. LEARN. IMMIGRATION BUREAU. SUAN PAKKAD PALACE. DO. SIAM. COPE. EAT. BAN
KAMTHIENG. THA TIEN. TALAT BOBAE. CHAROEN KRUNG ROAD. CHATUCHAK PARK. PRATUNAM. 559. MARKETS. WAT RAJSINGKORN.
CONTACT. CHAO PHRAYA EXPRESS BOAT. ROYAL ELEPHANT NATIONAL MUSEUM. PHAHONYOTHIN ROAD. 557. THE QUEEN'S GALLERY.
PHRA PRANG WAT ARUN. MID-RANGE. BUGS. HUALAMPHONG STATION AREA. JESSIE'S MINIMART. VTBS. RATCHADAPHISEK. SKYTRAIN.
STARBUCKS. RELIGIOUS PARAPHERNALIA. GET OUT. WAT SRIBOONREUNG. RATCHADAMNOEN POST OFFICE. SAWASDEE BANGKOK
INN. BED SUPPERCLUB. GAYSORN PLAZA. WAT PHO. STATE RAILWAY OF THAILAND. RESTAURANT. SUPERHIP. Q BAR. SAPHAN TAKSIN.
FACILITIES. SEE. SEE. DRINK. BANGKOK SONGKRAN FESTIVAL. TOP VEGETARIAN. PUBLIC BUS OR MINIBUS. 2. THE MALL BANGKAPI. SAEN
SAEP EXPRESS BOAT. ROBOT BUILDING. BARS AND PUBS. TAILORING SHOPS. RIVER CITY. APEX. PANFA LEELARD. POLITICAL UNREST.
CHAO PHRAYA EXPRESS BOAT. EMERALD BUDDHA. WAT RATCHANADDA. RESTROOM. WAT SUTHAT AND THE GIANT SWING. THAILAND
CULTURAL CENTRE. BLACK CANYON COFFEE. S&P. NANA CHARD. AIRPORT RAIL LINK. PAVILION OF REGALIA, ROYAL DECORATIONS
AND THAI COINS. COPE. THONBURI. EMPORIUM. SCAMS. 514. SAPAN HUA CHANG. SATHORN (TAKSIN). MO CHIT. SAPHAN KHWAI. STAY
SAFE. GET IN. GRAND PALACE. TROK. MEDIA. SIAM. BANG SUE. UNIVERSITY STUDENT. WONGWIEN YAI TRAIN STATION. WAT SAKET AND
THE GOLDEN MOUNT. WAT PHRA KAEW. 206. GET OUT. SUKHUMVIT ROAD. BY BUS. SCAMS AND ANNOYANCES. MBK CENTER. SLEEP.
AFTER-HOUR CLUBS. PRIVATE BUS COMPANIES. UNDERSTAND. PAMPERING. NANA ENTERTAINMENT PLAZA. THA TIEN. THONBURI. BY BUS.
EAT. WAT MAKOK. KHAO SAN ROAD. BY PUBLIC TRANSIT. SAMPENG LANE. PAK KHLONG TALAT. SLEEP. BUDGET. 509. ELSEWHERE.
METRO. UNDERSTAND. CENTRALWORLD PLAZA. EAT. SOI. CITY COMPLEX. THA CHANG. PAD THAI. ROYAL TURF CLUB OF THAILAND.
EURO II. FESTIVALS AND EVENTS. WAT HUA LAMPHONG. ROSE GARDEN. STARBUCKS. FLOWERS. RAMKHAMHAENG. ROYAL CITY AVENUE.
NGAM DUPHLI ROAD. HISTORY. ROYAL BANGKOK SPORTS CLUB. SUKHUMVIT. GET IN. SIAM DISCOVERY CENTER. NANA PLAZA. ALL-
DAY TOURS FOR PRICES AS LOW AS 10 BAHT. SOM TAM. METRO. KAMPHAENG PHET. BY BUS. BY TAXI. THONBURI TRAIN STATION.
DUKE OF WELLINGTON. BY BOAT. BANGKOK'S 7 DAY FORECAST. METRO. THEWET. GET AROUND. SENG HENG LI. UPSTAIRS BARS.
VIMANMEK MANSION MUSEUM. ELEPHANT RIDE. BMTA. FABRICS. CAF DE NORASINGH. KANOM ROTI. LOH PRASAT. PENINSULA PLAZA.
BUDGET. PLATINUM FASHION MALL. DO. MOTORBIKE TAXI. PHRA SUMEN FORT. ITAL-THAI TOWER. ART. WAT PHRA KAEW. SAPAN
CHAROENPOL. LONG-TAIL RIVER TAXI. BEER GARDENS AND MICROBREWERIES. SILOM LINE. SUKHUMVIT. CANAL TOUR. PHRA ATHIT
ROAD. RATCHAPRAROP. CANAL TOUR. CITY INFO. DRUG TESTS. VALID ID. 70. GET IN. GRAND PALACE. SANAM PAO. BANG SUE TRAIN
STATION. GRAND PALACE. NORTHERN BUS TERMINAL. CALYPSO CABARET. TRUEMOVE. DO. AGREE ON A PRICE IN ADVANCE. WAT
ARUN. 15. DO. SOI ARI. NIGHTCLUBS. TROOPING THE COLOUR. DRESS CODES. UNDERSTAND. ROADS. COFFEE. DON MUANG AIRPORT.
DON MUANG AIRPORT. MUST. ACCOMMODATION NEAR THE AIRPORT. HOUSES OF WORSHIP. ELEPHANT PAINTING. LIMOUSINE TAXI.
KEY LOGGERS. BANGKOK. PANTIP PLAZA. G.O.D.. SAPAN HUA CHANG. ENTERTAINMENT. SATHORN (TAKSIN). HISTORY. PHRA ATHIT.
GRAND PALACE. STATE TOWER. KHAO SAN ROAD. BUY. METERED TAXIS. SHOWS. CHAO PHRAYA EXPRESS BOAT. BUDGET. MEDITATING.
PANFA LEELARD. NATIONAL GALLERY. SOI ARI. PHLOEN CHIT ROAD. BOWLING CENTERS. SIAM SQUARE. PUBLIC BUS TERMINALS. TAXIS.
SANAM PAO. 556. PATPONG. 555. SKYLINE. PRATUNAM. ART GALLERIES. GET OUT. ADDRESSES AND NAVIGATION. Q BAR. TWIN TOWNS
SISTER CITIES. ORIENTATION. SLEEP. SEE. ROOFTOP BAR. PHRA PHUTTHA MAHA SUWAN PATIMAKON. SAPAN CHAROENPOL. GET
IN. ANTIQUES. SIAM PARAGON. SHINAWATRA TOWER III. GET IN. TRI PHET ROAD. RAILWAY STATION. 136. SAEN SAEP EXPRESS BOAT.
551. PASSPORT. CONTACT. EVENTS. UNHYGIENIC ACTS. DRINK. TRANSPORTATION. MEMORIAL BRIDGE NIGHT MARKET. STARBUCKS.
TOURISM. SEE. LOOK, BUT DON'T TOUCH. SUKHUMVIT LINE. QUEEN SAOVABHA INSTITUTE SNAKE FARM. MARINE DEPARTMENT. CHAO
PHRAYA EXPRESS BOAT. YUPPIE. BY BOAT. TOP BEST RESTAURANTS. SI LOM. COOL SEASON. RATTANAKOSIN. SHRINES. YAOWARAT
ROAD. TEMPLE OF DAWN. EAT. 56. GO-GO BARS. SAPHAN TAKSIN. SLEEP. THE PENINSULA. ORIENTATION. PHRA ATHIT. BANG SUE
TRAIN STATION. ENTERTAINMENT. DON'T LISTEN TO ANYONE TELLING YOU THE TEMPLES ARE CLOSED. GOLDEN MOUNT. WAT ARUN.
SKYTRAIN. OOWAN IM. SAFE. NOT. BUY. BOONSAMAKAN VEGETARIAN HALL. NORTH ENTRANCE. MOO YANG. NO PHOTOS INSIDE. SAEN
SAEP EXPRESS BOAT. TALAD BOBAE. SUVARNABHUMI AIRPORT. CONTACT. SUKHUMVIT SOI 11. SOI THONGLOR. BY BUS. BANGKOK.
NIGHT MARKET. BEER BAR. ILLEGAL ANIMAL PRODUCTS. PEOPLESPOTTING. WAT PHO. USEFUL INFO. DUSIT PALACE. BUY. RIVER TAXI.
MOTORCYCLE ACCIDENTS ARE BRUTALLY COMMON, AND TRANSPORTATION OF THIS SORT IS INHERENTLY HAZARDOUS. THE PENINSULA.
GAY NIGHTLIFE. DO. SOI THANIYA. UNDERSTAND. HISTORY. MASSAMAN CURRY. SIAM CENTER. ANANTASAMAKHOM THRONE HALL. SEE.
DRINK. 504. BY BUS. BUS SERVICES. 550. SLEEP. EXPRESS BOATS. RED BUS. SILOM. WAT CHAENG. INTERNATIONAL RELATIONS. KHAO
SAN ROAD. PHETKASEM ROAD. BY PUBLIC TRANSIT. BOBAE TOWER. SEXPAT. BY BUS. GET IN. CURRENTLY CLOSED. GREEN ZONES
AND MAJOR PARKS. SEE. NARCISSUS. BABYLON. NANA ENTERTAINMENT PLAZA. BANG SUE. CHARN ISSARA. SI LOM. RATCHAPRASONG.
SAEN SAEP EXPRESS BOAT. BY TRAIN. SATHORN (TAKSIN). INTERNATIONAL CUISINE. DISTRICTS. BY BOAT. BY BUS. WHITE/BLUE BUS.
GOLDEN MOUNT LINE. SPLURGE. BAAN KRUA NUA. PANFA LEELARD. DUSIT PALACE. DRINK. CHAO PHRAYA RIVER. MASSAGE SHOPS.
MOVIES. BY CAR. INTERNATIONAL BUDDHIST MEDITATION CENTRE. SOI COWBOY. CANAL TOURS. MAKKASAN (CITY AIR TERMINAL). SOI
RAMBUTTRI. SURASAK. UNDERSTAND. DISTRICTS. RATCHADAPHISEK. 552A. SATHORN (TAKSIN). NOTE. BY BUS. PHAHURAT. SIAM SQUARE.
PHAYA THAI. WAT PHRA KAEW MUSEUM. BY PUBLIC TRANSIT. GET OUT. FESTIVALS. HUA LAMPHONG. SOI 33. WAT PHRA KAEW.
BY BOAT. ACCESSORIES. SEE. SIAM SQUARE. NANA NUA. BANGKOK MAIL CENTER. SPLURGE. COFFEE WORLD. NIGHTCLUBS. BEER
GARDENS. UNION OF THAI TRADITIONAL MEDICINE SOCIETY. SEE. BARS. SOUTH ENTRANCE. SOUTHERN BUS TERMINAL. WAT PHO. BY
TAXI. WAT SOTHON. SATHORN (TAKSIN). EAT. BANYAN TREE HOTEL. DA FENG ZU SHRINE. M.R. KUKRIT'S HERITAGE HOME. DO. 15. 556.
PHAYA THAI. NIHONMURA. BY BOAT. PANFA LEELARD. COPE. WAT THEP THIDA RAM. ARCHITECTURE. SLEEP. PASSPORT. AGREE ON A
PRICE. THAI MASSAGE. BY PUBLIC TRANSIT. HUA SENG HENG. RATCHADAPHISEK. REFERENCES. TRANSPORT NETWORK. CHATUCHAK
WEEKEND MARKET. NATIONAL STADIUM. SOI PHADUNG DAO. THE KINGS BIRTHDAY CELEBRATIONS. RAMA I ROAD. BY CAR. STREET
CARTS. THE MALL RAMKHAMHAENG. SUKHUMVIT ROAD. BLUE/YELLOW AND CREAM/BLUE AIR-CON. SUKHUMVIT. HISTORIC BUILDINGS.
JUST MADE FOR NEBOJSA ZEC
RAMKHAMHAENG. THE MALL. ENGLISH PUBS. TUK-TUKS. TALING CHAN FLOATING MARKET. SEE. GET OUT. DUSIT. GO-GO BARS. MIRACLE
GRAND LOUIS TAVERN. DMK. VEGETARIAN RESTAURANTS. SAI TAI TALING CHAN. DO. DUSIT. 552. HISTORY. FLOATING MARKETS. SIAM
SQUARE. PUBLIC TRANSPORT CENTER. PHAYONYOTHIN. TOURIST POLICE. BLUE LINE. MOTORBIKE TAXI. ASIAN. 515. HUA MARK. RATCHADA.
LUMPINEE BOXING STADIUM. THANON. WAT RATCHANADDA. BY BOAT. DUSIT. BANGKOK ART AND CULTURE CENTRE. BUDGET. BOOK
ONLINE, SAVE MONEY. DRINK. 3. SLEEP. VTBS. PRATUNAM. BANGKOK AS SEAT OF INTERNATIONAL AND REGIONAL ORGANIZATIONS.
KAI YANG. GET IN. DRINK. WAT ARUN. GRAND PALACE. RECLINING BUDDHA. 511. PUBLIC TAXI STAND. NATIONAL ASSEMBLY. UNITED
CENTER BUILDING. CONTACT. USEFUL INFO. GET IN. STATE TOWER. LIANG GUANG PANICH. 556. BY BOAT. SANAM LUANG. KAMPHAENG
PHET. LEARN. WAT BENCHAMABOPHIT. NIDA LINE. BUDGET. SAPHAN TAKSIN. YAOWARAT. UNDERSTAND. HORSE RACES. PHAHONYOTHIN.
FULL NAME. LITTLE ITALY. BY BUS. WAT ARUN. KHLONG TOEI. TOURIST BOAT. GET OUT. METERED TAXI. VIMANMEK PALACE. PHRA
 Table of contents

1 Bangkok. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Districts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
2

Understand. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
2

Get in. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
2

Get around. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
2

See. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
2

Do. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
2

Learn. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
2

Buy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
2

Eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
2

Drink. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
2

Sleep. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
2

Contact. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
2

Stay safe. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
2

Cope. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
2

Get out. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
2

1 Districts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
2 Siam Square. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Understand. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 29
Get in. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 29
See. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 30
Do. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 30
Buy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 31
Eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 32
Drink. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 33
Sleep. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 34
Contact. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 34
Cope. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 35
Get out. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 35
2 Sukhumvit. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Understand. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 36
Get in. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 36
Do. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 37
Learn. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 38
Buy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 38
Eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 39
Drink. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 44
Sleep. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 46
Contact. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 49
Cope. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 49
Get out. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 49
2 Silom. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Understand. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 50
Get in. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 50
See. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 51
Do. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 53
Learn. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 53
Buy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 54
Eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 55
Drink. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 56
Sleep. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 58
Contact. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 59
Get out. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 59
2 Rattanakosin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
Understand. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
3

3
 Table of contents

Get in. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 60
See. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 61
Do. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 68
Learn. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 68
Buy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 69
Eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 70
Drink. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 71
Sleep. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 71
Contact. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 71
Get out. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 71
2 Khao San Road. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
Understand. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 73
Get in. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 73
See. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 74
Do. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 76
Learn. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 76
Buy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 76
Eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 77
Drink. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 77
Sleep. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 79
Cope. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 82
Contact. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 82
Stay safe. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 82
Get out. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 83
2 Yaowarat and Phahurat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
Understand. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 84
Get in. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 84
See. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 85
Do. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 88
Buy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 88
Eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 90
Drink. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 91
Sleep. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 91
Contact. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 92
Get out. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 92
2 Dusit. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
Understand. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 93
Get in. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 93
See. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 94
Do. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 96
Buy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 96
Eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 97
Drink. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 97
Sleep. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 97
Contact. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 98
2 Thonburi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
Understand. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
3

Get in. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100

3

Get around. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100

3

See. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101
3

Do. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102
3

Buy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102
3

Eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103
3

Drink. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
3

Sleep. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
3

Contact. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105
3

4
 Table of contents

Get out. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105

3

2 Pratunam. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
Understand. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 106
Get in. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 106
See. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 107
Do. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 108
Buy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 109
Eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 110
Drink. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 110
Sleep. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 111
Contact. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 112
Get out. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 112
2 Phahonyothin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
Understand. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 113
Get in. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 114
See. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 115
Do. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 115
Buy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 116
Eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 116
Drink. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 116
Sleep. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 116
Contact. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 117
Cope. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 117
Get out. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 117
2 Ratchadaphisek. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
Understand. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 118
Get in. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 119
See. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 120
Do. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 120
Buy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 121
Eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 122
Drink. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 122
Sleep. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 122
Contact. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 123
Get out. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 123
2 Ramkhamhaeng. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
Understand. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 124
Get in. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 124
Get around. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 125
See. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 125
Do. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 126
Buy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 126
Eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 127
Drink. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 127
Sleep. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 127
Contact. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 127
Get out. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 128
2 Phayonyothin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
Understand. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 129
Get in. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 130
See. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 131
Do. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 131
Buy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 132
Eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 132
Drink. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 132
Sleep. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 132

5
 Table of contents

Contact. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
3

Cope. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
3

Get out. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133

3

1 City info. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134

Overview. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2 134
History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2 134
Full name. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2 135
Administration. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2 135
Geography. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2 136
Economy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2 138
Demographics. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2 139
Transportation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2 140
Education. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2 143
Health care and medical centers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2 144
Tourism. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2 144
Culture. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2 144
Current issues. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2 147
International relations. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2 147
1 Events. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149
Saturday April 26. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2 149
Sunday April 27. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2 149
Monday April 28. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2 149
Tuesday April 29. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2 149
1 Restaurants. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
Top
2 Best Restaurants. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
Top
2 Italian. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
Top
2 Asian. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
Top
2 Vegetarian. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152
1 Useful info. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153
Sunrise/Sunset. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2 153
Currency. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2 153
Useful phrases. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2 153
Emergency numbers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2 154
1 References. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155

6
 Bangkok
Bangkok
Bangkok
Districts
Bangkok is a huge and modern city humming with nightlife
and fervor. Administratively, it is split up into 50 districts
( khet), which are further split into 154 subdistricts (
khwaeng), but these are more often used in official business
and for addresses. Visitors will find the conceptual division be-
low of the main areas more useful for getting around.
Map of Central Bangkok
Map of Bangkok
Around Bangkok are the provinces of Nakhon Pathom to the
west, Nonthaburi to the northwest, Pathum Thani to the north,
Chachoengsao to the east, Samut Prakan to the southeast and
Samut Sakhon to the southwest.
Bangkok Districts
Understand
The concrete jungle of central Bangkok
Just under 14 degrees north of the Equator, Bangkok is a trop-
ical metropolis that is also one of the most traveller-friendly
cities in Asia. A furious assault on the senses, visitors are im-
mediately confronted by the heat, the pollution and the irre-
pressible smile that accompanies many Thais. Despite the sen-
sationalized international news reports and first impressions,
the city is surprisingly safe (except from some petty crimes)
and more organized than it initially appears, and full of hid-
den gems waiting to be discovered. The high relative humidi-
ty and warm temperature favour the growth of tropical plants
you'll find exotic orchids and delicious fruit everywhere.
Bougainvillea and frangipani bloom practically all over the
city. Thai cuisine is justifiably famous, varied, and affordable.
Bangkok for many represents the quintessential Asian capital.
Saffron-robed monks, garish neon signs, graceful Thai architec-
ture, spicy dishes, colourful markets, traffic jams, and the trop-
ical climate come together in a happy coincidence. It is difficult
to leave with lukewarm impressions of the city.
History
"Bangkok" originally was a small village on the west bank of
the Chao Phraya river. After the fall of Ayutthaya in the late
18th century, King Taksin the Great turned that village into
Siam's new capital and renamed it Thonburi. In 1782, King Ra-
ma I moved the capital to the eastern bank of the river at
Rattanakosin; originally the site of a Chinese community, who
were moved outside of the new city walls to Yaowarat. King
Rama I named the city Krung Thep, as it is now known to Thais
and which in English is translates as the "City of Angels".
The full name "Krung thep mahanakhon
amorn ratanakosin mahintharayutthaya mahadilok
popnoparat ratchathani burirom udomratchanivetmahasathan
amornpiman avatarnsathit sakkathattiyavisnukarmprasit"
(
7
 Bangkok
) is Soi 4 is also known as "Soi Nana", so the address above might
listed as the world's longest location name by the Guinness
Book of Records; an English rendering goes like this: "The city
of angels, the great city, the residence of the Emerald Buddha,
the impregnable city of Ayutthaya of God Indra, the grand cap-
ital of the world endowed with nine precious gems, the happy
city, abounding in an enormous Royal Palace that resembles
the heavenly abode where reigns the reincarnated god, a city
given by Indra and built by Vishnukarn". The original village of
Bangcok has long since ceased to exist, but foreigners never
caught on to the change.
Life was taking place on the water; ordinary people lived
on bamboo-rafts along the the river, while floating vendors
roamed the water to sell fruit and vegetables. The only stone
structures built on land were temples and palaces. In the 19th-
century, Western powers incorporated much of Southeast Asia
into their colonial empires. King Rama IV and V felt that the on-
ly way to keep Siam independent was to modernize the coun-
try along European lines. Traditional canals were filled up and
turned into roads. King Rama V moved the residence of the
King to Dusit and laid out that district's grand boulevards along
European lines.
Bangkok really started to develop after World War II. The eco-
nomic center shifted from the orderly planned city of Rat-
tanakosin in an eastward direction, leaving Bangkok without
an obvious center. Bangkok established itself as the driving
power behind Thailand's new role as a newly industrializing
country from the 1980s onwards. Rapid economic growth has
attracted migration from the countryside, with millions of Thais
moving here from Isaan to make a living.
This rapid expansion turned Bangkok into one of the most cos-
mopolitan and happening cities in Asia; but also ensured nu-
merous problems. A wide gap has emerged between those
who profit from economic activity, and those who came to the
city from the countryside in search of work. Bangkok's seem-
ingly never-ending traffic jams continue as the new Skytrain
and metro systems are too expensive for the working class.
Getting a break from the fumes in a park would seem to be a
good idea, if it wasn't that Bangkok having the lowest amount
of green space among all capitals in the world.
Addresses and navigation
Addresses in Bangkok use the Thai addressing system, which
may be a little confusing to the uninitiated. Large roads such as
Silom or Sukhumvit are thanon (), often abbreviated Th or
glossed "Road", while the side streets branching off from them
are called soi (). Sois are numbered, with even numbers on
one side and odd numbers on the other side. Thus, an address
like "25 Sukhumvit Soi 3" means house/building number 25 on
the 3rd soi of Sukhumvit Road. While the soi numbers on each
side will always advance upward, the numbers often do not ad-
vance evenly between sides for example, Soi 55 could be
across from soi 36. Many well-known sois have an additional
name, which can be used instead of the number. Sukhumvit
Bangkok Understand
thus also be expressed as "25 Soi Nana". The extension /x is
used for new streets created between existing streets, as seen
in Sukhumvit's soi pattern 7, 7/1, 7/2, 9, 11. Note that some
short alleys are called trok () instead of soi.
Bangkok
To make things a little more complex, some large sois like Soi
Ekkamai (Sukhumvit Soi 63) and Soi Ari (Phahonyothin Soi 7)
have their own sois. In these cases, an address like "Ari Soi 3"
means "the 3rd soi off Soi Ari", and you may even spot address-
es like "68/2 Ekkamai Soi 4, Sukhumvit 63 Road", meaning "2nd
house beside house 68, 4th soi off Ekkamai, the 63rd soi of
Sukhumvit". In many sois, the house numbers are not simply
increasing, but may spread around.
To further bewilder the tourist who doesn't read Thai, the ren-
derings of Thai street names in the Latin alphabet are not con-
sistent. The road running towards the (former) airport from Vic-
tory Monument may be spelled Phahonyothin or Phahon Yoth-
in or Pahon Yothin or Phaholyothin depending on which street
sign or map you consult. It's all the same in Thai, of course, only
the romanization varies.
And if that's not confusing enough, most of the larger
streets tend to change names altogether every few kilome-
ters. Sukhumvit is called Sukhumvit on one side of the toll-
way (roughly east), but it becomes Phloen Chit just before you
cross Witthayu Road (aka Wireless Road) going towards the riv-
er. Keep going just a few more streets and it becomes Rama
I Road (or Phra Ram Neung Road) after you pass Ratchadamri
Road. But if you were to turn right onto Ratchadamri, in just
a few blocks you'll find yourself on Ratchaprarop Road (past
Phetchaburi, aka New Phetburi, which is called Phitsanulok clos-
er to the river). Got it?
Fortunately, there's logic to these name changes: most of them
are neighborhoods. It wouldn't make sense to call the road
Sukhumvit if it's no longer running through the Sukhumvit
area, would it? Thus, Sukhumvit becomes Phloen Chit where it
runs though the Phloen Chit area. It's when you're able to grasp
the city in terms of its neighborhoods that it both becomes
8
 Bangkok Bangkok Get in

more navigable and more charming. Likewise, Pratunam and for as little as 10 baht. Locals get their water from "reverse os-
Chatuchak are much more than just markets; they're boroughs, mosis" purified water machines that fill up a bottle for less than
each with their own distinct character. 3 baht.

Related to this last point, compass directions are not widely

used by Thais to navigate in Bangkok. That's probably because
they aren't very useful; the city's Darwinistic layout, the chang-
ing street names, the winding river, and the lack of obvious
landmarks all conspire to confuse your internal compass. Thus,
asking for directions in terms of "Is that west from here?" will
probably earn you little more than a confused look from a local.
You're better off to familiarize yourself with the neighborhoods
and navigate to and from them. "How do I get to Thong Lo?"
will get you there faster than asking for directions to Sukhumvit
Soi 55.
One exception: the Chao Phraya River is the landmark in
Bangkok, and many directional references can be made as "to-
ward the river" or "away from the river". If you aren't too close,
that is: since the river winds around the most popular tourist ar-
eas, river references tend to be most helpful when you're wan-
dering farther afield than Khao San Road, Sanam Luang or Rat-
tanakosin. And wander you should.
Literature
The Butterfly Trap (Dennis Jon, 2003). This book is best de-
scribed as a travelogue. It gives a realistic and non-judgmen-
tal first-person account of Bangkok's nightlife industry.
Movies
Foreign films were popular in Thailand from the get-go, but in
the 1920s a local film industry started to emerge in Bangkok.
The most critically acclaimed Thai movies were produced in the
"three waves" of the Bangkokian film industry, the 1930s, the
1950s and the late 1990s/2000s, although movies made before
World War II have unfortunately been lost. Predominant gen-
res are action, historical epics, romance and gay/transgender
movies, almost always intertwined with elements of comedy.
The following are staged (at least partly) in Bangkok:

Climate Get in
According to the World Meteorological Organization, Bangkok
is the world's hottest city. Located just 14 degrees north of the By plane
Equator, Bangkok is sunny at any time of the year with temper-
atures over 30C (86F). Bangkok is served by two airports: Suvarnabhumi Airport and
Don Muang Airport . Suvarnabhumi Airport is used by all air-
The most pleasant time to visit is the cool season that lasts from lines in Thailand, except for domestic flights on Nok Air and Ori-
November till February. It is both the coolest and driest period ent Thai, which still use the old Don Muang Airport. Both these
the Emerald Buddha statue in Wat Phra Kaew even wears airports are about 30 kilometers (19 miles) from the city cen-
a scarf during this period! Don't think that's necessary though ter, so be prepared for a long ride to get into the city. Also al-
daytime temperatures still hover around 30C (86F), but it low at least three hours to connect between them, as they are
does cool down into the lower 20s as it gets dark (lower 70s far away from each other and there is heavy congestion on the
in Fahrenheit). March and April represent the hot season, and roads.
hot it is 35C (95F) on average, but don't be surprised to
see temperatures rising into the 40s C (around 100 F+). This Suvarnabhumi Airport
is the worst season to visit Bangkok, so plan in a lot of air-con-
ditioned shopping mall visits and get a hotel with a swimming
pool. Then there's the wet season that runs from May till Octo-
ber. Expect massive downpours resulting in floods all over the
city, and spells of thunder at times. It's not all bad though the
afternoon showers are actually a pleasant way to cool down
from the heat, and while they may last all day, usually they're
over within an hour. Extreme rainfall happens in September
and October, so these months are best avoided.

Whatever season you're visiting, don't take the weather light-

ly temple-tramping in the middle of the soaring afternoon
sun can be a challenge, so come well-prepared. Dress lightly
for the weather, but keep in mind that some palaces and tem-
ples (notably the Grand Palace) have a strict dress code. Also be Suvarnabhumi Airport: where Thai culture meets tax-free shopping
sure, and this cannot be said enough, drink enough fluids! You
don't have a reason not to, as 7-Elevens and other convenience
stores are abundant in Bangkok and they sell cooled beverages

9
 Bangkok
A spartan gate lounge
Located 30 kilometers (19 miles) to the east of Bangkok, space-
age Suvarnabhumi Airport (, pronounced "soo- Thai stations. The ride to Phaya Thai takes about 30 min-
wanna-poom") (IATA: BKK) (ICAO: VTBS) started operations in
September 2006 and is now Bangkok's main airport and the
busiest airport in Southeast Asia. It is used for almost all inter-
national and domestic flights to Bangkok. There is only one ter-
minal building, which covers both domestic and international
flights, but it is huge (by some measures the world's largest), so
allow time for getting around. There are two immigration sec-
tions, but processing time is lengthy at least 30 minutes.
Facilities
Suvarnabhumi offers all facilities you would expect from a ma-
jor international airport. There's a transit hotel, ATMs, money
exchange, restaurants, tax-free shops, an observation lounge
and even a "redemption booth", very reassuring for karmical-
ly challenged passengers. There are about 50 dining venues
spread over the terminal building. The one that sounds most
interesting probably is "Panda Ready To Eat", but the cheapest
place for a meal is Magic Food Point on level 1, near gate 8.
There are a few stores in the check-in area, including a conve-
nience store and a post office; however, the real shopping ex-
perience awaits travelers on the other side of immigration in
the departure area, where the number of shops and duty free
outlets leaves you wondering whether you are in an airport or
a mall. There is not much to see at the observation deck on the
seventh floor, since the steel structure of the roof blocks most
of the view.
Bangkok Get in
Transportation
There are plenty of ways to get into the city from Suvarnabhu-
mi Airport. Most people opt for the Airport Rail Link, by far the
fastest way to get into downtown, although taxis are also rea-
sonably priced by world standards.
Located on the basement level of the passenger terminal, the
Airport Rail Link offers a high-speed train service to downtown
Bangkok. It's also a way of avoiding Bangkok's horrendous rush
hour traffic, particularly when it's raining. Trains run from 6AM
till midnight every day and travel at an amazing 160 km an
hour. Two different services are operated:
The non-stop Express Line brings you directly to either
Makkasan or Phaya Thai station in 15/18 minutes for 90 baht
one way, with plenty of space for luggage. Express trains
leave Suvarnabhumi Airport every 20-30 minutes, but check
the destination: Phaya Thai offers an easy transfer to the Sky-
train, while Makkasan station is technically at walking dis-
tance of Phetchaburi MRT station, although the link bridge
is still under construction and it's quite a hike at the mo-
ment (300+ meters). You can take bus 556 here that heads
directly for the Southern Bus Terminal (the bus stop is not
clearly marked though). On the way back, some airlines in-
cluding Thai and Bangkok Airways offer baggage check-in
at Makkasan if you arrive 3 to 13 hours before your flight.
The slightly slower City Line is a commuter rail line that
stops at all stations. Trains leave every 15 minutes, and after
Makkasan station it continues to Ratchaprarop and Phaya
utes from the airport and costs 45 baht. If you're heading
downtown, there is a good connection to the BTS Skytrain at
Phaya Thai, though you will have to buy a new ticket. If Khao
San Road is your final destination, you can hail taxis from
the main road (around 70 baht), or hop aboard bus 15 (7
baht); this bus goes along Ratchadamnoen Klang Road and
Chakrabongse Road serving both sides of Khao San Road.
Private Airport Express buses, including backpacker favorite
AE2 to Khao San Road, stopped running in June 2011. To take
a public bus or minibus, you must first take the free shuttle bus
ride from outside the second floor to the bus terminal that is
a few kilometres away. Go to the first floor and walk to the far
right of the terminal. Exit the last door, and continue about 100
meters to the right, where you will see the sign for the "ordi-
nary bus". These free shuttle buses are white in colour, and will
make a few other stops on the way to the terminal. The BMTA
public bus lines are:
549: Suvarnabhumi to Min Buri
550: Suvarnabhumi to Bang Kapi
551: Suvarnabhumi to Victory Monument
552: Suvarnabhumi to On Nut
552A: Suvarnabhumi to Sam Rong
553: Suvarnabhumi to Samut Prakan
554: Suvarnabhumi to Don Muang Airport
555: Suvarnabhumi to Rangsit (using the expressway)
10
 Bangkok
556: Suvarnabhumi to Khao San Road and the Southern Bus
Terminal
557: Suvarnabhumi to Wongwien Yai
558: Suvarnabhumi to Central Rama 2
559: Suvarnabhumi to Future Park Rangsit (using the outer
ring road)
These services take about one to two hours depending on traf-
fic; frequency is usually every 20 minutes during daytime. At
nighttime, it ranges from 20 minutes to 1 hour depending on
the route. To give an example, the fare between Suvarnab-
humi Airport and On Nut on 552 is 32 baht, and the journey
takes about 40 minutes in mid-afternoon traffic. There are al-
so privately-owned BMTA minibuses to many parts of Greater
Bangkok, such as Don Muang Airport, Bang Kapi, Rangsit and
Samut Prakan. They charge a flat rate of 50 baht and go direct-
ly to the destination, so they are faster than public buses that
stop frequently along the way.
Long-distance first class bus services connect Suvarnabhumi
Airport directly with Chachoengsao, Nong Khai, Pattaya, Ray-
ong, and Trat.
Top-level egress to queueless taxis
Ordinary metered taxis are available on the first floor (one floor
below arrivals). Follow the "public taxi" signs that lead to the
outside of the airport premises, queue up and state your desti-
nation at the desk (English is understood). You'll get a two-part
slip with your destination written in Thai on it. The small part
is for your driver, the large part is for you. This ticket is for com-
plaints and is how the system is enforced: hold on to it to help
avoid arguments later. There is a 50-baht surcharge on top of
the meter (not per passenger!), meaning that trips to the city
will cost 250 to 400 baht (plus possible expressway tolls of 45
and 25 baht, depending on time). Make sure you have change
ready to pass to the toll operators to avoid being overcharged
for the tolls later on. The ride takes about 45 to 60 minutes de-
pending on traffic and location. No other surcharges apply, not
even for going back to the airport. If there is a huge taxi queue,
consider taking a limousine taxi, or take the free shuttle bus to
the Public Transport Center, which has more taxis. Go straight
to the "official taxi stand" and wait there. It is rare, but there
have been reports of rigged meters that make the ride cost
Bangkok Get in
more than 400 baht. These taxis usually appear highly modi-
fied and it is a good idea to avoid them, or record the license
plate number of the taxi.
So-called limousine taxis (which charge by distance, e.g.
around 800 baht to Sukhumvit) can be reserved at the limou-
sine hire counter on the second floor (just outside arrivals), and
aggressive touts will try to entice you on board. If you allow
yourself to be waylaid by one of these taxi touts, they might
quote you more than double the fare than an ordinary metered
taxi would charge (900 baht instead of 400 baht, for example).
You'd be silly even acknowledging their existence ignore
and walk straight past them.
Accommodation near the airport
There are plenty of hotels near Suvarnabhumi Airport, and
huge construction projects are planned for the future. Day
room facilities for transit passengers are now available at
the Miracle Grand Louis Tavern on floor 4, concourse G (tel.
+66-2-134-6565-6, 2000 baht per 4-hour block, no reservations
accepted). Cheapskate travellers looking for a free quiet place
to doze undisturbed at night can use one of the benches on
the bottom floor of the terminal (which seem to be a popular
choice with tourists and locals).
All other accommodation in Bangkok is listed in the relevant
district articles. If you want an overnight stay within 20 min-
utes of the airport, get a hotel along Lat Krabang Road, here
covered in the Ramkhamhaeng district. The Tourist Authority
of Thailand and other hotel and tourist agencies have counters
on the arrivals floor of the main terminal. You can make reser-
vations at plenty of hotels here. Check for special promotions
and also whether the hotel offers an airport pick-up and drop-
off service especially useful for late night arrivals and early
morning departures.
Don Muang Airport
Don Muang Airport (IATA: DMK) (ICAO: VTBD) (or Don Mueang),
about 30 kilometers north of downtown, was Bangkok's main
airport until 2006. The airport currently handles Nok Air and
Orient Thai domestic flights, but the former international ter-
minal is now limited to charters and general aviation.
The public taxi stand is on the sidewalk outside the arrivals area
(don't be fooled by all the taxi service booths in the main hall),
and is probably your best bet for getting into town it's your
only option after 11PM. The same booth and slip system as
at Suvarnabhumi Airport is used here. If the queue at the taxi
stand is long or you need a more spacious car, you may want
to book a (so-called) limousine taxi from the desks in the ter-
minal. This will get you a slightly nicer car at about twice the
price (500-600 baht). Ignore any touts outside and do not get
into any car with white license plates, as these are not licensed
to carry passengers.
Across a covered overpass from the airport is Don Muang
Train Station. Tickets to Hualamphong Train Station in central
11
 Bangkok
Bangkok cost 5 baht at the ticket booth. While taking the train
is the cheapest way to get from the airport to Bangkok, it is not
for the faint-of-heart: schedules are erratic, the run-down pas-
senger cars often have beggars roaming through them, and
are relatively empty late at night.
There are also a number of public transport buses going by the
airport, just follow the signs out toward the train station. Buses
towards central Bangkok are at the airport's side of the road, so
don't cross the highway! These are useful bus lines:
Air-conditioned bus 504 will take you to CentralWorld Plaza
at Ratchaprasong intersection (close to Siam Square), as well
as to Lumphini Park and Silom, from where you can have ac-
cess to the Skytrain.
Ordinary and air-conditioned bus 29 will take you to
Hualamphong Train Station passing by many places, includ-
ing Victory Monument and Siam Square. You can also get
off at the Chatuchak Weekend Market, where you can switch
onto the metro or Skytrain.
Air-conditioned bus 59 will take you to Sanam Luang in Rat-
tanakosin. This route is time-consuming as Rattanakosin is
far off from the airport.
Keep in mind that some of these buses don't complete the
route. They are called "additional bus" (Thai: rot serm). what inconvenient location on the Thonburi side of the river.
These kind of buses have a red sign in front of them with the
final destination written on it (in Thai script of course). Check
this before taking the bus. You can ask the locals at the bus stop
or a conductor on the bus.
By bus
When buying tickets for buses out of Bangkok, it's best to skip
travel agents and their private buses, and get the tickets for
public buses directly at Bangkok's three public bus terminals.
These buses are cheaper, safer, faster, more comfortable and
won't scam you onto a clapped-out minibus halfway along the
way or to a bedbug-infested hotel at the end. Each of these
long haul bus terminals serve a different direction. They are
purposefully located in off-central locations, so the long-haul
buses avoid the heavy traffic congestion in the center of the
city.
The largest, busiest, and most modern terminal is the North-
ern Bus Terminal, +66-2-936-2841(-3), also known as Mo Chit.
The upper floor serves the Isaan region in the northeast of Thai-
land; the ground floor serves Northern Thailand, and shares
some destinations with Ekkamai (including Pattaya, Rayong,
Chanthaburi and Trat). The bus terminal is a fair hike from BTS
station Mo Chit or MRT station Chatuchak Park. Motorbike taxis
do the trip for a fixed 30 baht fare (bargaining is pointless),
while tuk-tuks charge whatever they feel like when bargain-
ing, remember that a real taxi with air-conditioning will cost
you about 45 baht (assuming little traffic). You can also take
bus 77 and pay the 7-baht flat fare on board (this bus also goes
from the terminal via Victory Monument, Pratunam and Silom
Road. If you have a considerable amount of luggage, the easi-
Bangkok Get in
est, if not necessarily fastest, option is to take a taxi directly to
or from the bus terminal.
Buying tickets here is reasonably easy; find a window with your
destination written on it (in friendly Roman letters), pay the fare
in big numbers on the same window, and you'll get a ticket on
the next available departure. Note that blue writing means 1st
class, red means 2nd class (avoid on longer trips), and tickets
for destinations in Isaan are sold from the third floor. Ask the
information desk on the first floor if you need help, or any of the
BKS staff, easily identifiable thanks to their natty white shirts
with gold buttons. Now just find the departure stall and you're
on your way. If you have time to kill, there are two fairly decent
air-conditioned food courts at both ends of the main terminal
building, plus KFC, Dunkin' Donuts and lots of 7-Eleven outlets.
The Eastern Bus Terminal, +66-2-391-2504, also known as
Ekkamai, is a relatively compact terminal right next to Ekka-
mai BTS station in Sukhumvit. Ekkamai serves destinations in
Eastern Thailand, including Pattaya, Rayong, Ban Phe (for Ko
Samet), Chanthaburi and Trat.
Then there's the Southern Bus Terminal, +66-2-894-6122, also
known as Sai Tai Taling Chan (), that serves
all destinations west and south of Bangkok from its some-
In December 2007, the terminal moved to a new, even more
remote location, at Phutthamonthon Sai 1 Road in northern
Thonburi. Long-distance buses leave from here to destinations
throughout Western Thailand (including Nakhon Pathom and
Kanchanaburi) and Southern Thailand (including Krabi, Phuket,
Surat Thani, Ko Samui, Ko Pha Ngan, Hat Yai, and many others).
The new terminal is a fairly pleasant airport-like structure with
air-conditioning, electronic departure monitors (in English), a
few bank offices and a KFC. Unlike the rip-off operators at Khao
San Road, all buses from here are public, well-regulated, cheap
and reasonably safe. Just buy your tickets at the numbered
desk with your destination posted on it (almost always in Eng-
lish).
Getting to the terminal is a bit of headache, as public transport
is limited. The easiest option is to take a metered taxi, but be
sure the taxi knows where to go, or you may end up at the
old Southern Bus Terminal (Sai Tai Mai). The new one is located
in the same direction, but is 4.5 km further from the center. If
you're going there in the evening, especially during workdays,
be prepared to fight a serious traffic jam getting there can
take 30 minutes or a full hour from the city center. A taxi ride
from Khao San Road should end up around 120 baht in favor-
able traffic conditions. Ignore touts unlike what they might
say, there really is no "faster" way when all the roads are con-
gested.
From Victory Monument BTS station, the terminal can be
reached with pale orange air-conditioned bus 515 (16 baht).
When approached by an onboard bus attendant ticketer, just
say "Sai Tai Taling Chan". After quite a ride, the large bus ter-
minal will be on the left side about 9 km after crossing the
river (you won't miss it and probably will be told as well).
12
 Bangkok
Getting there by bus actually does not take much more time
than taxi (it's almost the same in the likely case of a traffic
jam), but the ride is much cheaper, especially if alone. Bus
556 from Suvarnabhumi Airport no longer goes from there,
but from Makkasan above ground electric train station. There
are also white minibuses (30 baht) from various points around
Bangkok, eg. from Ramkhamhaeng (near Rajamangala Nation-
al Stadium). There are inexpensive shuttle buses and slightly
more expensive (but quicker loading and a bit faster) minibus-
es to and from the Northern Bus Terminal as well.
By train
Ticket counters at Hualamphong Train Station
The State Railway of Thailand , +66-2-222-0175, serves
Bangkok with railway lines from all four directions of Thailand.
Hualamphong Train Station is the most important station, lo-
cated close to Yaowarat and served by its own MRT station. It is
a big and surprisingly convenient station built during the reign
of King Rama VI. It spared bombing in World War II at the re-
quest of the Thai resistance movement.
Tickets for trains leaving the same or the next day can be
bought on the counters under the big screens. The Advance
Booking Office is located to the right of the platforms as you
walk towards them and is quite well-organized. You can select
your seat/berth from a plan of the train, and payments by cred-
it card are accepted. Also, finally you can book an e-ticket ; the
price is the same, however, the quota reserved for e-booking
is limited, and there are only first and second class air-condi-
tioned sleeper tickets available.
A word of advice is to only listen to the people at the informa-
tion desk anyone else walking around offering to help you
"find" a hotel or taxi is just a tout, even if they are wearing offi-
cial-looking badges. Likewise, the second floor shops offering
"Tourist Information" are just agents in disguise. The taxi pick
up and drop off point is to the left of the platforms as you walk
towards them, and is generally chaotic at busy periods with
scant regard for any queue. The left luggage facility is at the op-
posite end of the concourse, on the far right as you walk away
from the platforms.
Bangkok Get in
If coming by train from the north or north-east, connecting to
the metro at Bang Sue Train Station can shave the last half-
hour off your train trip. This is not a very good place to board
trains though, as there is practically no information or signage
in English. However, this situation will doubtlessly improve as
more and more long-distance departures are switched to here
from Hualamphong Train Station to ease congestion in the in-
ner city.
The Thonburi Train Station, formerly known as the Bangkok
Noi Station, is on the west side of the river in Thonburi. It is
the terminus for twice-daily trains to Kanchanaburi (via Nakhon
Pathom). Just to keep things confusing, the previous Thonburi
Train Station right next to the river (accessible by the Chao
Phraya Express Boat pier Railway Station) is now mothballed
and turned into a museum, but it's only 800 meters away from
the new station. Note that the weekend-only second class air-
conditioned "tourist" trains to Kanchanaburi and Nam Tok de-
part from Hualamphong Train Station.
Wongwien Yai Train Station only serves the rustic Mae Klong
commuter line to the fishing village of Maha Chai. Trains run
roughly hourly and the trip takes about one hour. The ride is
of little interest if you want to get there fast, but is an experi-
ence for rail fans and an attraction in itself, with a nice view on
the countryside's orchards, vegetable plantations and coconut
groves. Maha Chai is a nice seafood destination, and if you feel
like it, you can cross the Tha Chin river by ferry and continue by
rail to Samut Songkhram. The railway station is about 800 me-
ters from the Skytrain station of the same name; to get there,
take a metered taxi for 35-50 baht, or walk (using a map).
By ship
Not many people come to Bangkok by boat, but there are some
cruise ships that attend the city. Large ships must dock at Laem
Chabang Port, about 90 minutes southeast of Bangkok and
about 30 minutes north of Pattaya. A taxi service desk is avail-
able on the wharf, but charges extortionate prices for a trip to
Bangkok a whopping 2600 baht to charter a taxi (4 passen-
gers), or about 5000 baht to charter a minibus (usually 11 pas-
senger seats). Slightly lower prices can be found by walking out
to the main road, about 4000 baht for a minibus, but even these
rates are still almost double the typical rate in the opposite di-
rection. Better deals may be possible for round trips (even if re-
turning the following day).
Frequent first and second class bus services directly connect
Laem Chabang with Bangkok's Eastern Bus Terminal (Ekkamai);
less frequent direct services run to the Northern Bus Terminal
(Mo Chit). A first class air-conditioned bus (blue and white) to
either will take 90 minutes or less; the fare is around 100 baht. A
quick way to get into downtown is to board an Ekkamai-bound
bus and then disembark early at On Nut, where you can hop
onto the Skytrain. The bus will always stop here if a passenger
requests it.
13
 Bangkok
Southbound buses en route to Pattaya can be boarded at the
traffic lights on Sukhumvit Road in Laem Chabang. These are
extremely frequent (at least 10 per hour), and charge less than
50 baht.
Modest-sized ships may dock further upriver at Khlong Toey
Port, close to Bangkok's city center. A modest terminal provides
processing for passengers (who may receive Thai customs and
immigration processing on-board), as well as offering "man-
agers" who arrange tours and taxis. Reaching major hotels and
other points of interest is much cheaper than from Laem Cha-
bang, but can vary according to the passenger's negotiating
skills. The facility is not close to the MRT stop of Khlong Toei,
the best way to get there is by metered taxi.
By car
Getting into Bangkok by car is not a good idea, as you can easily
waste half a day waiting in traffic just to get to the other side of
the city. Three major highways lead to Bangkok from all direc-
tions of Thailand. The best way to get to Bangkok from North-
ern Thailand is driving on Phahonyothin Road (Route 1), which
comes from Mae Sai near the Myanmarese border. Sukhumvit
Road (Route 3) comes from cities in Eastern Thailand, such as
Trat, Pattaya and Chonburi. Phetkasem Road (Route 4) must be
one of the longest roads in the world, as it comes all the way
from the Malaysian border serving Southern Thailand.
Get around
Bangkok is infamous for its congestion, but these days there
are ways around it: hop on the Skytrain (BTS) and metro in the
city center, or use boats to navigate the city's rivers and canals.
By public transit
Bangkok BTS, MRT and ARL Systems Map
Skytrain
The BTS Skytrain ( rot fai fa BTS, pronounced
bee-tee-et) deserves a visit simply for the Disneyland space-
ageness of it. Built in a desperate effort to ease Bangkok's in-
sane traffic and pollution, the Skytrain covers most of down-
Bangkok Get around
town and is especially convenient for visiting Siam Square.
There are two lines: the light green Sukhumvit Line travels
along Sukhumvit Road, Siam Square and then follows Phaho-
nyothin Road up north, where it terminates near at Mo Chit
(N8), near the Chatuchak Weekend Market. The dark green
Silom Line starts in Thonburi, passes the Express Boat pier near
Saphan Taksin (S6), goes through the Silom area and ends at
National Stadium (W1), right next to MBK Center. Both lines
come together at Siam (CEN), where you can interchange be-
tween them. Unfortunately, there is no station near Khao San
Road, but you can take the Express Boat from nearby Phra Athit
pier to Sathon (Taksin) pier, where you can switch onto the Sky-
train.
You must have 5 or 10 baht coins to purchase Skytrain tickets
from vending machines, so hold on to them. Fares range from
15 to 40 baht depending upon how many zones you are trav-
eling. Consult the map (in English) near each ticket machine.
If you do not have coins, queue for change from the staff at
the booth. If you are in town for several days (or going to make
several visits during the next 30 days), weigh your options and
consider a rechargeable stored-value card (from 100 baht, with
a 30 baht refundable deposit and a 30 baht non-refundable
card cost), a "ride all you like" tourist pass (from 120 baht per
day) or a multiple ride pass of 20 trips or more to any zone
(15 trips cost 345 baht, 25 trips cost 550 baht; plus a 30 baht
refundable deposit for a rechargeable card that is valid for 5
years). They will certainly save you time, scrambling for coins,
and maybe even money. Check for information with the Eng-
lish speaking staff.
Metro
The MRT ( rot fai tai din, pronounced em-ar-tee)
finally opened in July 2004. For now there is only one line, the
Blue Line that connects the central Hualamphong Train Sta-
tion (1) to the northern Bang Sue Train Station (18), running
through Silom, Sukhumvit, Ratchadaphisek and area around
Chatuchak Weekend Market in Phahonyothin. There are in-
terchanges to the Skytrain at Si Lom (3), Sukhumvit (7) and
Chatuchak Park (16) stations.
Tourists do not use the metro as much as the Skytrain, but
there are some useful stops. The terminus at Hua Lamphong
(1) provides a good access to Yaowarat. If you're going to the
Chatuchak Weekend Market, don't get out at Chatuchak Park,
but go one stop further to Kamphaeng Phet (17) as it drops you
right inside the market.
Metro tickets are not interchangeable with Skytrain tickets.
Rides start from 15 baht and are based on distance; pre-paid
cards of up to 1000 baht are also available. For single ride fares,
a round plastic token is used. It is electronic: simply wave it by
the scanner to enter; deposit it in a slot by the exit gate leave.
Note that bag-checks take place at the entrance of each sta-
tion. It is usually nothing more than a quick peek inside, unless
you are looking particularly suspicious.
14
 Bangkok
Airport Rail Link
Finally opened in August 2010, Bangkok's newest pub-
lic transportation system is the Airport Rail Link
() . The Express Line is approach you bearing a long metal cylinder. At some bigger
only useful for getting into the city, as it starts at the airport,
skips all stations and brings you directly to Makkasan (City
Air Terminal). This ride takes about 15 minutes and costs 150
baht. Trains run every 15 minutes from 6AM till midnight. From
Makkasan, you can continue your way by metro at Phetchaburi
MRT station, but it is quite a hike as the pedestrian bridge is still
in construction.
If you want to use it to get around the city, take the City Line
as it is cheaper and it stops at all stations. Many Thais in East-
ern Bangkok use it to commute to the city center. It starts
at Suvarnabhumi Airport and terminates at Phaya Thai, with
some interesting stops in between (such as Ramkhamhaeng
and Ratchaprarop for Pratunam). The full ride takes about 30
minutes and sets you back 40 baht. At Phaya Thai, you can
transfer onto the Skytrain and continue your way.
By boat
Chao Phraya Express Boat
Chao Phraya Express Boat Map
A ride on the Chao Phraya river should be high on any tourist's
agenda. The cheapest and most popular option is the Chao
Phraya Express Boat , basically an aquatic bus plying up and
down the river. The basic service plies from Wat Rajsingkorn
(S4) all the way north to Nonthaburi (N30), with stops at most
Bangkok Get around
of Rattanakosin's major attractions including the Grand Palace
(at Tha Chang) and Wat Pho (at Tha Tien). The closest pier to
Khao San Road is Phra Arthit. Enter the express boat at the nu-
merous piers and pay for the trip at ticket collector, who will
piers you can buy the ticket before boarding. When the met-
al cylinder lady approaches you, just show her the ticket you
bought on the pier.
The different boat lines are indicated by the colors of the flags
at the top of the boat. These flags can be confusing; don't think
the yellow King's flag corresponds to the yellow line flag! There
is a basic "no flag" line (9, 11 or 13 baht) that goes along all the
piers, but it only runs during rush hours (Mon-Fri 06:20-08:05
and 15:00-17:30) and is fairly slow. It is better to take the faster
yellow (19 or 28 baht, Mon-Fri 06:15-08:10 and 15:30-18:05)
and orange (14 baht, every day 06:00-19:00) flag lines, but you
have to be sure where you're going as they don't stop every-
where. The yellow line is the fastest, but is best avoided as it
skips many popular attractions (including Khao San Road, the
Grand Palace and Wat Pho). The orange line is your best bet, as
it covers the major tourist areas and is fairly quick too.
In addition to the workaday express boat, there is also a blue
flagged Tourist Boat which stops at a different subset of piers,
offers commentary in English and charges a flat 150 baht for a
day pass. Single ride tickets are 25 baht. The boats are slightly
more comfortable and may be worth considering if you want
to cruise up and down the most important tourist sights. They
only operate once per 30 minutes and stop running by 3PM.
The signposting of the piers is quite clear, with numbered piers
and English route maps. Sathorn (Taksin) pier has been dubbed
"Central" station, as it offers an quick interchange to Saphan
Taksin BTS station. The boats run every 5 to 20 minutes from
sunrise to sunset (roughly from 6AM till 7PM), so ignore any
river taxi touts who try to convince you otherwise.
Many piers are also served by cross-river ferries. These are par-
ticularly useful for reaching Wat Arun or the many piers at the
Thonburi side of the river. Cross-river ferries run around every
10 minutes and only cost 3 baht pay at the kiosk on the pier
and then walk through the turnstile.
Saen Saep Express Boat
Saen Saep Express Boat Map
15
 Bangkok
The Saen Saep Express Boat serves the long Saen Saeb canal,
one of the remaining canals (khlong) that used to flow through
Bangkok. Mostly used by locals to commute to work, the ser-
vice is cheap and you get to see the 'backside' of the neighbor-
hoods, so to speak. Also, It is immune to Bangkok's notorious
traffic jams. The total distance is 18 kilometers, and the service
operates from 5:30AM till 8:30PM.
They are comparatively safe just watch your step when
boarding and disembarking as they don't stop at the pier for
long and do not let the dirty water get into your eyes. To pre-
vent splashes, the boats are equipped with little curtains that
you can raise by pulling on a string, but they have to be low-
ered at every stop so people can clamber on board. Pay the
fare (14-22 baht) to the fearless helmet-wearing ticket collec-
tors who clamber around on the outside of the boat, ducking at
bridges, as it barrels down the canal. Press the green 'bell' but-
ton if you want to get off at the next pier, else the boat might
just skip it. The piers now even have (tiny) signs in English, with
the exception of The Mall Bangkapi pier, and it's not obvious
that you're at the mall from the canal boat!
The canal runs parallel to Phetchaburi Road, and provides the
easiest access from the Golden Mount in Rattanakosin (and
nearby Khao San Road) to Siam Square and Pratunam. This line
is aptly called the Golden Mount Line and runs from Panfa Lee-
lard pier to Pratunam pier in downtown. If you want to contin-
ue your journey beyond Pratunam, passengers have to change
boats there. The NIDA Line starts at Pratunam and heads east
to Sukhumvit and Ramkhamhaeng. Hold on to your ticket.
River taxi
Typical "long tail" river taxi
Finally, for trips outside set routes, you can hire a long-tail riv-
er taxi at any major pier. These are fairly expensive and will at-
tempt to charge as much as 500 baht per hour, but with some
haggling they may be suitable for small groups. To circumvent
the mafia-like touts who attempt to get a large cut for every
ride, agree for the price of the shortest possible ride (30 min),
then negotiate directly with the captain when on board.
Bangkok Get around
By taxi
Metered taxi
Metered taxis are a quick and comfortable way to get around
town, at least if the traffic is flowing your way, but be warned
that Bangkok taxi drivers are notorious for finding ways to run
up the fare; insist that the meter is used, and if the driver claims
that your destination is closed, that he doesn't know where it
is, or if he tries to take you elsewhere, just get out of the taxi.
All taxis are now metered and air-conditioned: the hailing fee
is 35 baht and most trips within downtown cost less than 100
baht. There are no surcharges (except from the airport), even at
night; don't believe drivers who try to tell you otherwise. A red
sign on the front window, if lit, means that the taxi is available.
When the meter is switched on you will see a red '35' some-
where on the dashboard or between the driver and you. Be
sure to check for this at the start of the ride, as many drivers will
"forget" to start the meter in order to overcharge you at the end
of your trip. Most will start the meter when asked politely to
do so (meter na khrap if you're male and meter na kha if you're
female); if the driver refuses to use the meter after a couple of
attempts, simply exit the taxi.
In some cases, late at night and especially near major tourist
districts like Khao San or Patpong, you will need to walk a block
away to catch a honest driver. The effort can save you as much
as 150 baht. This is often also the case for taxis that park all day
in front of your hotel. There are only two reasons that they are
there: to take you places where they can get their commissions
(jewelry stores, tailors, massage parlors, etc.) and to overcharge
you by not using the meter.
Your best bet is to walk to the road and catch an unoccupied
metered taxi in motion (easier than it sounds, as Bangkok traf-
fic tends to crawl the majority of the time, and one car out of
four is a taxi). Avoid parked taxis altogether, and if a taxi driver
refuses to turn the meter on, simply close the door and find
one who will. Keep in mind that it is illegal for them to have
unmetered fares. Be smart and give your money to honest dri-
vers, not touts. The only reason that they get away with this so
frequently is that foreign tourists let them.
Be sure to either know the correct pronunciation of your desti-
nation, or have it written in Thai, as taxi drivers in Bangkok are
notoriously bad at reading maps, and most drivers speak limit-
ed English. Most hotels and guest houses will happily write out
addresses in Thai for you. While most drivers will recognize the
names of tourist hot spots, even if grossly mispronounced, but
it is often difficult to properly pronounce addresses in Thai. If
your mobile phone works in Thailand, it is sometimes useful to
call your hotel and ask the staff to speak to your driver in Thai.
In addition, try to get your hotel's business card to show the
taxi driver in case you get lost.
If you are pinching pennies or fussy about your means of trans-
portation, you may wish to avoid getting into one of the (very
common) yellow-green taxis. They are owner-operated and of
16
 Bangkok
highly variable quality and occasionally have rigged meters. All
other colors belong to large taxi companies, which usually en-
force their standards better.
On some routes, the driver will ask if he should use the tollway
this will usually save a lot of time. You have to pay the cost
at the toll booth (not in advance and not at the end of the jour-
ney). Watch how much the driver really pays, as many try to
keep the change.
When getting out, try to have small bills (100 baht or less) or
expect problems with change. Tips are not necessary, but are
certainly welcome if you're happy about the service; most local
passengers will round up or leave any coin change as tip.
Tuk-tuk
Tuk-tuks on the prowl
Finally, what would Bangkok be without the much-loathed,
much-loved tuk-tuks? You'll know them when you hear them,
and you'll hate them when you smell them these three-
wheeled contraptions blaze around Bangkok leaving a black
cloud of smog in their wake. For anything more than a 5-10
minute jaunt or just the experience, they really are not worth
the price and, if you let them get away with it, the price will
usually be 4 or 5 times what it should be anyway (which, for
Thais, is around 30 percent less than the equivalent metered
taxi fare).
On the other hand, you can sometimes ride for free if you
agree to visit touristy clothing or jewelry shops (which give the
tuk-tuk driver gas coupons and commissions for bringing cus-
tomers). The shops' salesmen are pushy, and try to scam you
with bad quality suits or "gems" that in fact are worthless pieces
of cut glass. But usually you are free to leave after five to ten
minutes of browsing. Visitors should beware though, some-
times one stop can turn in to three, and your tuk-tuk driver may
not be interested in taking you where you need to go once he
has his gas coupons. Also, with Bangkok's densely congested
traffic it is sure to waste hours of your time, if not the whole day.
If you still want to try the tuk-tuk, always hail a moving tuk-tuk
from the main road. At tourist spots, these tuk-tuk drivers lie in
waiting to disrupt your travels plans. Always agree on a price
before entering the tuk-tuk. Also be crystal clear about your in-
tended destination. If they claim that your intended destina-
tion is closed for the day, and offer to take you to other nearby
Bangkok Get around
tourist spots, insist on your destination or get out. If you're an
all-male party, tuk-tuk drivers sometimes will just ignore your
destination completely and start driving you to some brothel
("beautiful girls"). Insist continually and forcefully on going on-
ly to your destination; or take a metered taxi instead.
A songthaew is a less-heralded, less-colourful and less-touristy
version of the tuk-tuk that usually serves the back sois in resi-
dential neighborhoods. They usually have four wheels instead
of three, two benches instead of one, run on gasoline instead of
LPG and resemble a tiny truck. The maids and locals tend to use
them to return home from the market with loads of groceries,
or for quick trips if they're available. Negotiate before you get
in, but don't expect to go much beyond the edge of that par-
ticular neighborhood.
Motorbike taxi
When traffic slows to a crawl and there are no mass-tran-
sit alternatives for your destination, by far the fastest mode
of transport is a motorbike taxi ( moto-
sai lapjang). No, those guys in the pink smocks aren't biker
gangs; they're motosai cabbies. They typically wear colorful flu-
orescent yellow-orange vests and wait for passengers at busy
places. Prices are negotiable before you ride.
For the adrenaline junkie, a wild motosai ride can provide a fan-
tastic rush. Imagine weaving through rows of stopped vehicles
at 50 km/h with mere centimetres to spare on each side, dodg-
ing pedestrians, other motorbikes, tuk-tuks, stray dogs and the
occasional elephant while the driver blithely ignores all traffic
laws and even some laws of physics. Now do the same while
facing backwards on the bike and balancing a large television
on your lap, and then you can qualify as a local though you
might die in the process. Imagine your loved ones arranging to
ship your dead body home from Bangkok because you took a
dangerous risk you were warned not to. Motorcycle accidents
are brutally common, and transportation of this sort is inher-
ently hazardous. Be aware of the risk before using motorcycle
taxis. Many tourists and Thai alike recommend avoiding them
except as a last resort. Under no circumstances ride without a
helmet.
The overwhelming majority of motorcycle taxis do not travel
long distances, but simply shuttle up and down long sois (side-
streets) not serviced by other transport for a fixed 5-20 baht
fare. These are marginally less dangerous, especially if you hap-
pen to travel with the flow on a one-way street.
The law requires that both driver and passenger must wear a
helmet. It is the driver's responsibility to provide you with one,
so if you are stopped by police, any fine is also the driver's re-
sponsibility. This is worth bearing in mind when you hire a mo-
torbike or moped. Make sure that if there are two of you, the
hirer provides two helmets instead of one. When riding, keep
a firm grasp on the seat handle and watch out for your knees.
17
 Bangkok
By bus
Local buses, operated by the Bangkok Mass Transit Authori-
ty () , or just BMTA (), are the
cheapest but also the most challenging way of getting around.
There is a bewildering plethora of routes, usually marked on-
ly in Thai. Even Thais have a hard time with these, but at least
they can call the 184 Bus Route Hotline, which is in Thai only.
Bus stops list only the bus numbers that stop there and noth-
ing more. They are also subject to Bangkok's notorious traf-
fic, often terribly crowded, and many are not air-conditioned.
If you want to get somewhere quickly and are not prepared
to get lost, the buses should be avoided (remember that taxis
are cheaper than most local buses in the West). However, they
make for a good adventure if you're not in a rush and you don't
mind being the center of attention.
But for the intrepid, and those staying in Khao San Road where
buses are the only practical means of public transport, the on-
ly free resource for decrypting bus routes is the official BMTA
website. It has up-to-date if slightly incomplete listings of bus
routes in English, but no maps. You can also ask your guest
house about which buses to take if you're going to a particular
destination. As a printed reference, the 69 baht spent on the
Bangkok Bus Map by Roadway is a good investment if you're
going to travel by bus more than once.
The hierarchy of Bangkok's buses from cheapest to best can be
ranked as follows:
Small green bus, 6.50 baht flat fare. Cramped, no air-con, no
fan, famously suicidal drivers, usually not advisable for more
than short hops. Run by private operators, they can be sig-
nificantly faster than the BMTA-run buses.
Red bus, 7 baht flat fare. More spacious and fan-cooled (in
theory). Unlike other buses, some of these run through the
night (1.50 baht surcharge). These buses are BMTA-run.
White/blue bus, 8 baht flat fare. Exactly the same as the red
buses, but cost one baht more. These buses are owned by
private entities operated in conjunction with BMTA.
Blue/yellow and cream/blue air-con, 11 baht for the first 8
kilometers, up to 18 baht max. These buses are quite comfy.
The blue/yellow striped buses are privately owned while the
blue/cream buses are BMTA-owned.
Orange air-con (Euro II), 13 baht for the first few kilometers,
up to 22 baht max. These are all BMTA-run, newer, and more
comfortable.
Pink/white micro-buses, 25 baht flat fare, paid into a fare-
collection machine located next to the driver exact fare
only. Not quite common away from the city center, these are
air-conditioned, modern and only allow seated passengers
(making them harder to use at rush hour as many won't stop
for you).
Buses stop only when needed, so wave them down (arm out,
palm down) when you see one barreling your way. Pay the
roaming collector after you board and keep the ticket, as there
Bangkok See
can be occasional spot-checks. Press the signal buzzer (usually
near the door) when you want to get off.
Two further pitfalls are that buses of the same number may
run slightly different routes depending on the color, and there
are also express services (mostly indicated by yellow signs) that
skip some stops and may take the expressway (2 baht extra).
Airport buses allow luggage (backpacks and suitcases), but
regular buses do not. Enforcement of this rule varies.
By car
Bangkok is notorious for its massive traffic jams, and rightly so.
In addition, traffic is chaotic and motorcyclists seemingly sui-
cidal. Therefore, most tourists consider driving in Bangkok a
nightmare, and it is highly recommended that you stick to pub-
lic transport and not try to drive yourself around.
See
Individual listings can be found in Bangkok's district articles
Most of Bangkok's sights are concentrated on the island of Rat-
tanakosin, often referred to the "Old City". Out of Bangkok's
hundreds of temples, the Grand Palace, Wat Pho and Wat Arun
usually make up the top 3. The Grand Palace has an immense
size, so expect to spend at least a full morning or afternoon
there. Within the palace grounds is Wat Phra Kaew, the most
sacred Buddhist temple of Thailand. Unlike other temples, it is
not one building, nor are there living spaces for monks. Instead,
it is a collection of highly decorated holy buildings and monu-
ments. One of its buildings houses the Emerald Buddha, and
while you might not expect it from its size, it is the most sacred
Buddha image of Thailand.
Nearby is Wat Pho, home to the world's largest reclining Bud-
dha image and a famed massage school. Take the ferry across
the Chao Phraya River to Thonburi for the outstanding Wat
Arun. The main structure is about 60 to 88 meters high and it is
surrounded by four smaller prangs. It is one of Thailand's most
picturesque temples, and is engraved on the inner part of all
ten baht coins. It is so recognizable that it even became the lo-
go of the Tourist Authority of Thailand (TAT). If you climb it, and
look closely, you will see that it is beautifully decorated with
colorful broken Chinese porcelain pieces. Heading back to Rat-
tanakosin, there are many other major temples you could visit,
including the Golden Mount, Wat Suthat and Wat Ratchanad-
da.
Don't throw away the entry ticket of the Grand Palace, as it
gives free entry to the Dusit Palace in Dusit. It is situated in
a leafy, European-style area built by King Rama V to escape
the heat of the Grand Palace. Its main structure is the Viman-
mek Mansion, touted as the largest golden teakwood house
in the world, but you could spend your whole day in the
museums if you wish. There are many museums in Bangkok
18
 Bangkok
showing traditional Thai-style residences. Most visitors take a
tour through Jim Thompson's House, the CIA-operative's man-
sion assembled by combining six traditional Thai-style hous-
es, conveniently located near Siam Square. Ban Kamthieng in
Sukhumvit, M.R. Kukrit's Heritage Home in Silom and the Suan
Pakkad Palace in Phahonyothin are not quite as impressive, but
still make for a nice experience. Rattanakosin's museums are
mostly dedicated to history and culture, including the National
Museum (about Thai history and archaeological remains), the
Museum of Siam and the King Prajadhipok Museum. Bangkok
has a small, but vocal art community, and you might want to
visit the National Gallery or The Queen's Gallery, or one of its
numerous smaller galleries spread over the city. Siam Square
features the recently opened Bangkok Art and Culture Centre
which has temporary art exhibitions throughout year.
Lumphini Park in Silom is the largest park in central Bangkok,
and a good way to escape the fumes. Backpackers around Khao
San Road can head for Santichaiprakarn Park, a small but fun
park along the Chao Phraya River with a breezy atmosphere,
usually with locals juggling or practicing tricks. It is built around
the 18th-century Phra Sumen Fort with a nice view on the mod-
ern Rama VIII cable-stayed bridge. Zoos and animal farms are
some of the more popular tourist attractions in Bangkok, but
before visiting, please be aware that animal welfare in Thai-
land is not strictly regulated. Poor living conditions of the ani-
mals and inadequate veterinary care are examples of the sad
mistreatment of the animal population. You can't go wrong at
the Queen Saovabha Institute Snake Farm in Silom, as the staff
takes good care of their snakes and they have a job of inform-
ing the public about the risks associated with them. Another
nice family attraction is Siam Ocean World in Siam Square. It
has a steep price tag, but at least you get to see the largest
aquarium in Southeast Asia.
Do
Bicycle tours
Go cycling! It may sound crazy, as cycling is deadly dangerous
on the main roads, but it certainly is not if you know where to
go. Away from the main roads there is a vast system of small
streets and alleys. Cyclists are treated as pedestrians, so you
can use your bicycle to explore parks, temple complexes, mar-
kets and the more quiet residential areas of eastern Bangkok.
In more crowded places you can cycle on the sidewalk. Explor-
ing the town by bicycle has all the advantages of going by
foot, combined with a much greater action radius and a cool-
ing breeze.
If you want to experience Bangkok hideaways and countryside,
leisurely cycling through green paddy fields, colorful orchid
farms, peaceful lotus fields and touched by the charm of Thai
way of country life at personal level, bicycle is a great way to
do it. There are a handful of specialist operators that offer daily
or regular departures to the so-called "Bangkok jungle" (Bang
Bangkok Do
Kachao), a semi-island across the river from Bangkok with few
cars or buildings, or through the backstreets of Chinatown. It
sounds strange but a cycle tour in Bangkok really is the best
way to discover the city up close.
Co van Kessel, +66-2-322-9481, . Co van Kessel offers many
cycling tours through Bangkok, taking in Chinatown, the
canals of Thonburi, the "Bangkok Jungle" and many other
places in between. 950-1950 baht.
Grasshopper Adventures, 57 Ratchadamnoen Klang
Rd (near the Democracy Monument, right around
the corner from Khao San Rd), +66-2-280-0832
(journeys@grasshopperadventures.com), . Grasshopper Ad-
ventures operates tours through the historic Rattanakosin
district of Bangkok, to the outskirts of Bangkok and one that
takes place at night. Tours regularly book out so make a
reservation in advance. 1000-1600 baht.
Recreational Bangkok Biking, Baan Sri Kung, 350/127 Rama
III Soi 71, +66-2-285-3955, . The owner Andre Breuer oper-
ates cycle tours with a maximum of 8 participants. The tour
passes by a local temple, a Burmese-style chedi, a school,
luxuious and poor neighboorhoods and a Muay Thai school;
the "Bangkok Jungle" is also included. Book in advance as
availability is limited. 1000 baht.
SpiceRoads, +66-2-712-5303, . 1000-2500 baht. They of-
fer many one-day and multi-day cycling trips in and around
Bangkok. There are trips to the Bangkok Jungle, Ko Kret,
Yaowarat and Thonburi.
Thailand Green Ride, +66-2-888-9637, . These are "green
rides", half-day, one-day and home stay overnight cycling
trips through the green countryside of Bangkok.
Canal tours
Another great way to see the Chao Phraya river and the origi-
nal canals of the city is by canal tour. Most of these special boat
trips start at the eastern bank of the Chao Phraya and head
through the backwaters of Thonburi, taking in Wat Arun, the
Royal Barges National Museum and a floating market. More in-
formation about these canal tours can be found in the Thon-
buri article. At 1000 baht or more, they are quite expensive
though; a cheaper and also fun activity is to take the public ex-
press boat along the Chao Phraya river. You can get off any-
where between Thewet and Sathon (Taksin) piers as there are
many things to see in all those neighborhoods. You can even
go all the way north to Nonthaburi in the morning, enjoy the
afternoon in this laid-back traditional urban town and take the
boat back around rush hour.
Muay Thai
Muay Thai, informally known as Thai Boxing, is both a sport and
a means of self-defense. Contestants are allowed to use almost
any part of the body: feet, elbows, legs, knees, and shoulders.
19
 Bangkok Bangkok Learn

There are two venues in Bangkok to see this type of sport in ac- Entertainment
tion, Lumpinee Boxing Stadium in Silom and Ratchadamnoen
Stadium in Rattanakosin. Sessions can take the whole evening, Bangkok is a great place to go to the movies. Compared to the
and the more interesting fights tend to happen in the end, so West, the cost of a ticket is a complete bargain at around 120
it's not that bad if you come slightly too late. The playing of tra- baht. Most cinemas have world-class standards and show the
ditional music during the bouts is enjoyable as well. A downer latest Hollywood and Thai releases. Watching Thai movies is a
is the steep 1000 to 2000 baht entry fee for foreigners, while fun night out, as pretty much all of them have English subti-
Thais chip in for 100 baht or less. tles. They are up to par with the latest technological innova-
tions in the film industry, so expect to wear 3D glasses for some
Cultural performances of the latest Hollywood releases, or visit the IMAX Theater in
Siam Paragon.
There are many cultural performances in Bangkok that
For non-mainstream cinema, House RCA (in Royal City Avenue)
shows traditional Thai culture and dance. Siam Niramit in
and APEX (in Siam Square) offer art films with English subtitles.
Ratchadaphisek is a truly spectacular performance where more
than 150 performers depict the history of each region of Thai- For other means of entertainment, Ratchadaphisek is a new-
land. ly created entertainment paradise. Its bowling centers are of
a superb standard with some of them resembling the inside
Of a completely different order are Bangkok's famous transves-
of a nightclub. Dance while you play in style. Private karaoke
tite shows. These cabarets generally take about two hours, and
lounges are usually connected to these bowling centers and
besides singing, dancing, glamour and costumes, usually it also
are available at major hotels. There's even an ice skating rink
has some comedy thrown in. The most famous show is Calyp-
and a top-class go-go kart track. As Ratchadaphisek is mostly
so Cabaret in Ratchathewi that has two sessions every evening
aimed at the locals, you might want to go to similar venues in
at the Asia Hotel. Always book these shows a couple of days in
Siam Square or Sukhumvit.
advance.
Horse Races are held on Sundays at two alternate turf clubs,
Pampering the Royal Turf Club of Thailand in Dusit and the Royal Bangkok
Sports Club on Henri Dunant Road (near Siam Square).
Spas, traditionally, were towns where public baths, hospitals
or hotels were built on top of mineral springs so that people
could come and make use of the healing properties found in
Festivals
the water and its mud for medical purposes. These days, a spa All of Thailand's major festivals are celebrated in Bangkok.
doesnt have to be a town built on natural thermal springs. It
can be a place anywhere that anyone can go to, to relax in tran-
quil surroundings with a variety of treatment administered to
recontour and rejuvenate the body and mind. Learn
All self-respecting luxury hotels in Bangkok have a spa that at
least offers a traditional Thai massage. Prices are exorbitant,
but they offer some of the best treatments in Bangkok. Particu-
larly well-regarded spas at exceptionally high rates are given at
the splurge hotels in Silom. Independent spas offer much the
same experience, but offer much more competitive rates. Fig-
ure around 1000 baht per hour for most treatments.

The ubiquitous little massage shops found on every street cor-

ner in town offer the best value for money, but the smallest
range of services, with offerings usually limited to massage on-
ly. Particularly Khao San Road and Sukhumvit have plenty of
these popular palces. It is fairly easy to distinguish legitimate
massage shops from more dubious places (where massaging is
only a front for prostitution); the real deal will charge 250-400
baht for a typical two-hour massage and will often have a row
Meditating Thai Buddhas
of beefy farmers' daughters in white coats working on cus-
tomers' feet in public view, while the other kind has wispy girls Thai cuisine is a favorite of many, and plenty of cooking schools
in evening dresses wearing too much make-up and saying "hel- provide half-day classes that provide a nice break from the day-
lo handsome" to every passing male. to-day sightseeing monotony. Silom and Khao San Road par-
ticularly have some of the better-known Thai cooking schools.

20
 Bangkok
Meditation, the essence of 'pure' Buddhism, can be practiced
at any temple in Thailand. In Bangkok however, there are also
well-known centers that cater specifically to foreigners wish-
ing to learn and practice. The International Buddhist Medita-
tion Centre inside Wat Mahathat in Rattanakosin provides free
meditation classes three times a day. If you can speak and
understand the Thai language well enough, you may wish to
go on your own retreat at a quiet temple on the outskirts of
Bangkok. To pay for your stay, it is appreciated that you assist
the resident monks on their morning alms rounds.
The Wat Pho temple in Rattanakosin offers well-regarded Thai
massage courses. While aimed squarely at tourists, this is not
necessarily a bad thing, as they're used to conducting classes in
English. An alternative is the Union of Thai Traditional Medicine
Society in Yaowarat and Phahurat.
Buy
Individual listings can be found in Bangkok's district articles
Racks of clothing at Siam Square
Dump a teenager in Siam Square with a few thousand baht
and she'll stay occupied for the rest of the week! Siam Square
is the place to shop in Bangkok; the small sois of Siam Square
have dozens of small designer boutiques. MBK Center and Si-
am Center are the most popular shopping malls, as they sell
fashion well below Western rates. Siam Paragon and the shop-
ping plazas at Ratchaprasong feel even larger, but are much
quieter, as most local Thais cannot afford the Guccis and Louis
Vuittons on sale there. Ladies will also feel well at home in the
Emporium in Sukhumvit.
Just take a few steps out of your hotel and Bangkok feels like a
huge street market. Sukhumvit has the usual souvenirs, t-shirts,
pirated DVDs and other tacky tourist junk. Browsing Khao San
Road's roadside stalls is particularly good for clothes and ac-
cessories, many of them for a bargain. While many of these
stalls still cater to the traditional hippie crowd, they have been
slowly gentrifying to appeal a broader audience. The nearby
Banglamphu Market sells cheap knock-offs of everything, just
like the night markets in Silom and Rattanakosin.
Bangkok Buy
In the weekends, the Chatuchak Weekend Market in Phaho-
nyothin is a must as its 8000 stalls together form the largest
market in Southeast Asia. Shoppers can buy just about every-
thing from clothing to potted plants and everything in be-
tween it is a paradise for browsers and bargain-hunters alike.
A weekday alternative is Pratunam, one of the city's renowned
garment markets. Clothes shopping here goes on wholesale,
and you're even cheaper off if you buy in bulk. At Pantip Plaza
you can buy computer-related stuff from branded laptops to
pirated DVDs.
Yaowarat and Phahurat give a more authentic experience, al-
though many stores sell the cheap teen accessories found else-
where too. Just sitting at a plastic chair and watching daily
commerce evolve is a fun activity in itself. Phahurat is the best
destination for fabrics, available in all colors and sizes. Pak Kh-
long Talat is a surprisingly fun wholesale market for all kinds of
cut flowers and vegetables. If you're a morning person, visit it
around 3AM, when new flowers from upcountry arrive and the
marketplace is beautifully illuminated.
Thonburi, being one of the least developed areas of Bangkok,
is the best place to experience what the city used to be like. A
must is the weekends-only Taling Chan Floating Market, which
feels at least somewhat authentic as it blends a rural market
with the canal side way of life. Wang Lang Market is an undis-
covered gem with strictly local prices. The other side of the riv-
er, Rattanakosin, has everything a good Buddhist would need,
be it amulets, monk bowls or human-sized Buddha statues.
For antiques, Silom is the place to go, as most potential buy-
ers stay there in expensive hotels. River City in Yaowarat is the
largest antique mall of the city, and priced to match. Gold and
gems are popular buys, but be extremely wary as many tourists
buy worthless pieces of cut glass believing it to be valuable
gems. Never let a tuk-tuk driver convince you into a gem store,
as more often than not, you're being ripped off. The same rule
goes for tailoring shops; you can get a custom-made suit for
amazingly cheap prices compared to the West, but you have to
know where to go, as many tailors provide bad quality. Avoid
tailoring shops in obvious tourist areas, as they are likely to rip
you off, and ask fellow travelers for advice. More information
on tailoring shops is provided in the Silom article.
Browsing second hand English-language books can best be
done on Khao San Road. For new releases, there are plenty
of chain stores in shopping plazas, including Asia Books, B2S,
Bookazine and Kinokuniya. There's a particularly wide array of
books on Asian culture and history; some have a good selec-
tion of foreign newspapers and magazines as well.
Getting money in Bangkok is relatively easy; credit cards are
widely accepted and ATMs are spread all over the city, especial-
ly in downtown areas. All banks charge a 150 baht commission
for using foreign cards, Aeon Bank being the sole exception to
this. Two of the most conveniently located Aeon ATMs can be
found in the central part of the second floor of MBK Center in
Siam Square and at the first floor of Central Department Store
at Silom Complex in Silom.
21
 Bangkok Bangkok Eat

en pieces and cucumber. Side sauces are spicy and go well with
the bland chicken and rice. You can sometimes add optional
Eat liver and gizzard if that is your taste. If you like sweets, try to
find a kanom roti () street vendor. The crepe-like dessert
Individual listings can be found in Bangkok's district articles is filled with sweetened condensed milk, lots of sugar, and can
also have bananas inside. Also fun to watch them being made.
Bangkok boasts a stunning 50,000 places to eat; not only thou-
sands of Thai restaurants, but a wide selection of world-class
international cuisine too. Prices are generally high by Thai stan-
dards, but cheap by international standards; a good meal is
unlikely to cost more than 300 baht, although there are a few
restaurants (primarily in hotels) where you can easily spend 10
times this.

Sukhumvit by far has the best restaurants of Bangkok, though

prices tend to be high. Practically every cuisine in the world
is represented here, be it French, Lebanese, Mexican, Viet-
namese, or fusion combining many of these together in a
quirky, but delicious mix. Bangkok's Italian town is Soi Ton Son
near Siam Square. Of course, for those on a budget, street stalls
abound with simple Thai dishes at around 30 baht. There are
especially plenty of budget restaurants in Khao San Road.

There are plenty of vegetarian restaurants in the more tourist-

friendly parts of town (especially in hippie district Khao San
Road). Vegetarian dishes are also readily available on the
menus of regular restaurants. On request, even typical street
restaurants will easily cook a vegetarian equivalent of a popu-
lar Thai dish for you. Ask for "jay" food to leave the meat out
of the dish. For example, "khao pad" is fried rice and "khao pad
jay" is vegetarian fried rice. For vegans, the most common ani-
mal product used would be oyster sauce. To avoid it, say "mai
ao naam man hoi". Be aware that all street noodle vendors use
animal broth for noodle soup.

Don't miss out on a cold ice cream in hot Bangkok. Dairy Queen Insects ready for a snack?
and Swensen's has booths in many malls and shopping cen-
tres. Their ice creams are tasty, cheap and safe for westerners Khao San Road is known for its carts selling bugs yes, in-
to eat. sects. They are deep fried, nutritious and quite tasty with the
soy sauce that is sprayed on them. Types available: scorpions,
water beetles, grasshoppers, crickets, bamboo larvae, meal-
Street food worms, and some more seasonal specialties. Break off the legs
from grasshoppers and crickets or they will get stuck in your
While not particularly high class, street food is among the most
throat.
delicious food and can be found all over Bangkok wherever
you're staying, you rarely have to walk more than 100 meters Around the corner from Khao San Rd in front of the department
for a cart of street restaurant. Many of street vendors sell satay store and supermarkets the street is lined with a myriad stalls
() with hot sauce for 5 to 10 baht a piece. selling all manner of tempting delicacies: sweets and crackers,
coconut jellies, candied fruits, fish balls on skewers,tamarind
One of Thailand's national dishes you can try is pad thai
sweets dipped in chilli and sugar and a host of other delights.
(), stir-fried rice noodles with eggs, fish sauce, tamarind
juice and red chilli pepper. It can be prepared for you on one
of the ubiquitous carts, or in a street restaurant for about 50 Ethnic cuisine
baht. You can order it with chicken (kai) or shrimps (kung).
Thai dishes can roughly be categorized into central, north-
Another one of Thailand's national dishes you should try is
ern, northeastern and southern cuisine. What's so great about
tom yam kung (), a sour soup with prawns, lemon-
Bangkok is that all these cuisines are present. Isaan food (from
grass and galangal beware, as it is very spicy! Khao man kai
the northeast of Thailand) is a backpacker favorite; generally
() is another popular street food. You can identify
street restaurants serve on plenty of small plates that can be
it at stalls displaying boiled chicken. Served with a bowl of fra-
shared. Som tam () is a salad made from shredded and
grant chicken soup is a mound of rice topped with sliced chick-

22
 Bangkok
pounded raw papaya again, it is spicy, but oh so delicious.
If you want to dine the Isaan way, also order some khao niew
(sticky rice), kai yang (grilled chicken) and moo yang (grilled
pork). Isaan food is very spicy; say mai pet or pet nit noy to tone
it down. Southern Thai cuisine is also worth it; many of them
have congregated around Wang Lang in Thonburi. At least try
the massaman curry (), it's delicious.
The place to go to for Chinese food is Yaowarat. It has a range of
street stalls and cheap restaurants selling expensive delicacies
at affordable prices such as shark fin soup and bird's nest. Soi
Phadung Dao is the best street for huge seafood restaurants.
Try 1 kg of huge barbecued prawns for about 300 baht. Phahu-
rat, Bangkok's Little India, has some decent Indian restaurants.
Dinner cruises
Dinner cruises on the Chao Phraya river are a touristy (but
fun) way of spotting floodlit temples while chowing down on
seafood and watching Thai cultural performances. Most oper-
ate buffet-style and the quality of the food is so-so, but there's
lots of it and it's not too spicy. While the river can give a roman-
tic experience, it can also be dirty and smelly with lots of plants
floating around.
Drink
Individual listings can be found in Bangkok's district articles
Sirocco at State Tower, Silom
Bangkok's nightlife is infamously wild, but it's not quite what it
used to be: due to recent social order campaigns, there have
been quite a lot of crack-downs on opening hours, nudity, drug
use etc. Most restaurants, bars and clubs are now forced to
close at 1AM sharp, although quite a few are allowed to stay
open till 2AM or later. Informal sidewalk bars do stay open all
night, particularly in Sukhumvit and Khao San Road. You must
carry your passport for ID checks and police occasionally raid
bars and discos, subjecting all customers to drug tests and
Bangkok Drink
searches, though these mostly occur at places that cater for hi-
society Thais.
One of Bangkok's main party districts is Silom, home not only to
perhaps the world's most famous go-go bar strip Patpong, but
plenty of more legitimate establishments catering to all tastes.
For a drink with a view, the open-air rooftop bars of Vertigo and
Sirocco are particularly impressive. A large number of superhip
and more expensive bars and nightclubs can be found in the
higher sois of Sukhumvit, including Bed Supperclub, Q Bar, and
Narcissus, as well as the hip area of Thong Lo (Soi 55).
Hippie hangout Khao San Road is also slowly gentrifying and
a score of young trendy Thai teenagers have also made their
mark there. Going out in Khao San Road is mostly casual, sit-
ting at a sidewalk bar watching people pass by, but some night-
clubs have opened here as well. Most of the younger Thais pre-
fer to congregate around Ratchadaphisek.
Smoking is forbidden in all restaurants, bars and nightclubs,
whether air-conditioned or non-air-conditioned. Remarkably
for Thailand, this rule is strictly enforced.
Go-go and beer bars
The go-go bar is an institution of Bangkok's "naughty nightlife".
In a typical go-go, several dozen dancers in bikinis (or less)
crowd the stage, shuffling back and forth to loud music and try-
ing to catch the eye of punters in the audience. Some (but not
all) also put on shows where girls perform on stage, but these
are generally tamer than you'd expect nudity, for example,
is technically forbidden. In a beer bar, there are no stages and
the girls are wearing street clothes.
If this sounds like a thinly veiled veneer for prostitution, it is. Al-
though some point to the large number of American GIs dur-
ing the Vietnam War as the point of origin of the Thai sex trade,
others have claimed that current Thai attitudes towards sexual-
ity have deeper roots in Thai history. Both go-go and beer bars
are squarely aimed at the foreign tourists and it's fairly safe to
assume that most if not all Thais in them are on the take. That
said, it's perfectly OK to check out these shows without actu-
ally partaking, and there are more and more curious couples
and even the occasional tour group attending. The main areas
is around Patpong, but similar bars to the ones at Patpong can
be found in Sukhumvit, at Nana Entertainment Plaza (Soi 4) and
Soi Cowboy (Soi 23). Before heading to these places, be sure to
read the Stay safe section for some additional advice.
As go-go bars close around 1AM, there are so-called after-hour
clubs that stay open till the sun gets up. They are not hard to
find just hop in a taxi. Taxi drivers will be eager to drive you
to an after-hour club, as they get commissions from club own-
ers to bring you to them you might even get the ride for free.
These clubs generally feel grim and sleazy, and there are so-
called "freelancers" among the girls (prostitutes). Taxi drivers
are especially eager to bring you to Bossy Club in Pratunam
and Spicy Club near Siam Square, but there are plenty of alter-
23
 Bangkok
natives at Sukhumvit Soi 11 and Nana Entertainment Plaza in
Sukhumvit.
Gay nightlife
Thais are generally accepting of homosexuality and Bangkok
has a very active gay nightlife scene, concentrated in Silom's
Soi 2, Soi 4 and a short strip of gay go-go bars known as Soi
Twilight (off Surawong Road). Gay strip bars all have free entry,
but charge an extra 150 baht or so for drinks. The most popu-
lar gay drinking bars are Balcony and Telephone Bar at Silom
Soi 4, which are busy until 11. For the disco crowd, DJ Station
and its late-night neighbour G.O.D. (located at Silom Soi 2) are
packed every night beginning around 11PM. Between 5-10PM
over 200 men from around the world cruise, swim, dine and
party at the nearby Babylon, considered by many to be the best
gay sauna in the world. Babylon also has a budget and luxury
accommodation.
Sleep
Individual listings can be found in Bangkok's district articles
Bangkok has a vast range of accommodation, including some
of the best hotels in the world and some of the worst dives
too. Broadly speaking, Khao San Road is backpacker city; the
riverside of Silom and Thonburi is home to The Oriental and
The Peninsula respectively, often ranked among the best in the
world (and priced to match). Most of the city's moderate and
expensive hotels can be found in Siam Square, Sukhumvit and
Silom, though they also have their share of budget options.
When choosing your digs, think of the amount of luxury you
want to pay for air-conditioning can be advised, as tem-
peratures don't drop below 20 degrees Celsius at night. Also
pay careful attention to Skytrain, metro and express boat ac-
cess, as a well-placed station or pier could make your stay in
Bangkok much more comfortable. In general, accommodation
in Bangkok is cheap though. It's possible to have a decent dou-
ble room with hot shower and air-conditioning for about 500
baht per night. If you want more luxury, expect to pay around
1500 baht for a double room in downtown. Even staying at one
of Bangkok's top hotels only sets you back around 5000 baht
the price of a standard double room in Europe.
One Bangkok hotel phenomenon of note is the guest fee of
around 500 baht added to your bill if you bring along a new-
ly found friend for the night. Some hotels even refuse Thai
guests altogether, this is especially common in Khao San Road.
These rules are obviously aimed at controlling local sex work-
ers, which is why hotel security will usually hold onto your
guest's ID card for the duration of the visit, but some hotels
will also apply it to Western visitors or, more embarrassingly,
try to apply it to your Thai partner. Look for the signs, or, if in
doubt, ask the staff before check-in.
Bangkok Sleep
Contact
Internet
Internet cafes abound in Bangkok. You'll generally be looking
at rates of around 30-60 baht per hour in tourist-laden districts
like Khao San Road, 20-30 baht per hour in downtown (the
top floors of MBK for example), and 10-15 baht per hour if you
would venture into residential areas (where the speed gener-
ally is still high).
An increasing number of cafes and pubs offer free WiFi to their
customers, including the ubiquitous Coffee World chain in all
of its branches (ask for the password at the counter). TrueMove
offers both free and paid WiFi access. If you want to get on-
line for free, you must register first, and both session and over-
all time is limited. Their network is accessible in many malls,
including Siam Square, and sometimes can be available from
your room if you stay in a nearby hot-spot just look for the
'truewifi' network, you can register right there. Most hotels and
guest houses provide at least some form of Internet. Some
have WiFi access inside the rooms but inquire before book-
ing.
Telephone
The area code for Bangkok is 02. You only need to dial the 0
if you're calling from within Thailand. Pay phones are not com-
monplace, as most Thais have a mobile phone. If you want to
avoid high roaming costs, you can buy a local SIM card for 50
baht at Suvarnabhumi Airport (or other mobile phone stores
throughout the city). The 50 baht is not just for the SIM card,
but is immediately your first pre-paid amount. Topping it up
is easy; just walk into a 7-Eleven convenience store and pick
an amount you want to add. Making international calls is also
cheaper this way.
Mail
Bangkok's red mailboxes are found all over the city. There are
also plenty of Thailand Post offices around for sending mail and
packages. In tourist areas, there are post offices in the Khao San
Road area (in front of Wat Bowonniwet) and at Sukhumvit Road
(between Soi 4 and 6).
Stay safe
Given its size, Bangkok is surprisingly safe, with violent crimes
like mugging and robbery unusual. One of the biggest dangers
are motorbikes who ride on pavements at speed, go through
red lights, undertake buses as they stop to let passengers off
and generally drive far too fast especially through stationary
traffic. If you are going to hire a bike, make sure you have insur-
24
 Bangkok
ance in case you are injured. You may be the world's best driver
but you'll meet many of the world's worst drivers in Thailand.
Bangkok does have more than its fair share of scams, and
many individuals in the tourist business do not hesitate to over-
charge unwary visitors. As a rule of thumb, it is wise to decline
all offers made by someone who appears to be a friendly local
giving a hapless tourist some local advice. Never get in a tuk-
tuk if someone else is trying to get you into one. Most Bangkok
locals do not approach foreigners without an ulterior motive.
Scams
You should always be on the look-out for scammers, especial-
ly in major tourist areas. Beware of tuk-tuk drivers offering all-
day tours for prices as low as 10 baht. You may indeed be taken
on a full-day tour, but you will end up only visiting one gem
and souvenir shop after another. The driver gets a commission
if you buy something and gas coupons even if you don't.
Unless the idea of travelling by tuk-tuk appeals to you, it's al-
most always cheaper, more comfortable and less hassle to take
a metered taxi.
Be highly skeptical when an English-speaking Thai at a popular
tourist attraction approaches you out of the blue, telling that
your intended destination is currently closed or offering dis-
count admissions. Temples are almost always free (the main ex-
ceptions are Wat Phra Kaew and Wat Pho) and open just about
every day of the year. Anyone telling you otherwise, even if
they have an official-looking identification card, is most like-
ly out to scam you, especially if they suggest a tuk-tuk ride to
some alternate sights to see until the sight re-opens. At paid
admission sites, verify the operating hours at the ticket win-
dow.
If you entered one of these tuk-tuks, touts often will drop you
off at a certain place, such as a genuine Buddhist temple. Here
you will find a man that claims to be an official, and he guides
you in a certain direction. There you will find another "official"
who also claims that a certain attraction is closed. This way, a
tourist hears the same statement by multiple people, and is
more eager to believe that his or her intended destination in-
deed is closed. Never get involved with these scammers or be-
lieve any of their statements.
When getting a taxi, it is a good idea to hail a moving taxi from
the main road, or to walk a short distance out of a major tourist
area before looking for one. This is no guarantee of honesty,
but greatly increases your chances of finding an honest dri-
ver, of which there are plenty in Bangkok, even if it sometimes
seems that every driver is on the make. Most of the untrustwor-
thy drivers are the ones standing still in tourist areas. Another
important rule of thumb is to insist on the meter for taxis and
agree on a price in advance for tuk-tuks. If they refuse, or quote
silly prices, just walk out and get a different one as they're rarely
in short supply. The Thai phrase to ask a driver to use the me-
ter is mee-TOE, khap if you're male and mee-TOE, kha if you're
female.
Bangkok Stay safe
Beware of tuk-tuk or taxi drivers who approach you speaking
good English or with an "I farang" sign, especially those who
mention or take you to a tailor shop (or any kind of business).
They are paid by inferior tailor shops to bring tourists there to
be subjected to high pressure sales techniques. If at any point
your transportation brings you somewhere you didn't intend
or plan to go, walk away immediately, ignore any entreaties to
the contrary, and find another taxi or tuk-tuk.
Also beware of private bus companies offering direct trips
from Bangkok to other cities with "VIP" buses. There are a lot
of scams performed by these private bus companies. The so-
called direct VIP trips may end up changing three or four un-
comfortable minibuses to the destination, and the 10-11 hour
trip may well turn into 17-18 hours. Instead, try to book pub-
lic BKS buses from the main bus terminals. It's worth the extra
shoe-leather, as there have been reports of robberies on pri-
vate buses as well.
Go-go bars
Bangkok is known for its go-go bars and the prostitution that
comes along with it. Technically, some aspects of prostitution
are illegal (eg. soliciting, pimping), but enforcement is rare, and
brothels are common. It's not illegal to pay for sex or to pay a
"barfine" (a fee the bar collects if you want to take an employee
away).
The age of consent in Thailand is 15, but a higher minimum age
of 18 applies in the case of prostitutes. Penalties for sex with
minors are harsh. All adult Thais must carry an identity card,
which will state that they were born in 2534 or earlier if they
were over the age of 18 on January 1, 2010 (in the Thai calendar,
2010 is the year 2553). Many hotels retain the ID cards of pros-
titutes for the duration of their visit. Whilst most prostitutes are
employed by bars or similar businesses, some are "freelancers".
Petty theft and other problems are more common with these
freelancers. HIV and AIDS awareness is better than it used to be,
but infection statistics among entertainment industry workers
remain high; freelancers are the highest risk group. Almost all
girls insist on using condoms.
While walking in go-go bar areas is generally safe, you have to
be cautious of touts who try to drag you into the upstairs bars
with offers of ping-pong shows and 100-baht beer. The beer
may well be 100 baht, but the "show" you'll be treated to will
be 1000 baht or more. The rule of thumb is that if you cannot
see inside from street level, avoid the establishment.
Do not get into fights with locals. Thais are peace loving peo-
ple, but when a Thai fights a foreigner, it is never a fair fight.
You'll wind up having to fight 10 to 20 others who were not ini-
tially involved, or the police will be called and not do anything
to assist you (especially the Metropolitan Police, as they nor-
mally have very limited English skills; always contact the Tourist
Police when in trouble). Thais are also notorious for fighting
with weaponry (guns, knives, broken bottles, metal rods) or
employing Muay Thai techniques. These are usually produced
25
 Bangkok
from their concealed locations, with foreigners getting serious-
ly injured or worse. Just avoid all confrontations. If you do get
involved in a situation, it is better to apologize and get the heck
out of there. In Thailand, discretion is definitely the better part
of valour.
Animal abuse
Elephants are a large part of Thailand's tourist business, and
the smuggling and mistreatment of elephants for tourist at-
tractions is a widespread practice. Be aware that elephants are
often separated from their mothers at a young age to be cruelly
trained under captivity for the rest of their lives. If you must go
on an elephant ride, purchase an elephant painting or use ele-
phants for other activities please take their mistreatment into
account.
A depressingly common sight on the congested streets of
Bangkok is elephant begging. During night hours, mahouts
(trainers) with lumbering elephants approach tourists to feed
the creatures bananas or take a photo with them for a fee. The
elephants are brought to the city to beg in this way because
they are out of work and are mistreated and visibly distressed
under the conditions of the city. Please avoid supporting this
cruelty by rejecting the mahouts as they offer you bananas
to feed the elephants. This is especially common in Silom and
Sukhumvit.
Due to its location, lax laws, and resources, many illegal
animal products come through Bangkok. Rare and endan-
gered species are often sold at markets for pets (especially at
Chatuchak), and many other animal products are sold as luxury
items. Avoid buying rare pets, leather, ivory, talons, dried sea
creatures (such as starfish), fur, feathers, teeth, wool, and other
products since they are most likely the result of illegal poach-
ing, and buying them contributes greatly to animal endanger-
ment and abuse.
Political unrest
In 2008, political unrest hit the headlines, with the yellow-shirt-
ed People's Alliance for Democracy (PAD) closing down both of
Bangkok's airports for a week with several people killed in polit-
ical violence. After the new prime minister was elected, things
were more or less back to normal for a while, but the situa-
tion remained unstable. In 2010, new political unrest surfaced
with red-shirted protesters from the United Front for Democ-
racy Against Dictatorship (UDD) occupying much of down-
town Bangkok. These protests turned violent when govern-
ment troops tried to take back parts of central Bangkok that
had been seized by protesters. Always follow the independent
press for the newest political developments, stay away from
demonstrations.
Bangkok Cope
Food and water
As elsewhere in Thailand, be careful with what you eat. Out-
side of major tourist hotels and resorts, stay away from raw
leafy vegetables, egg-based dressings like mayonnaise, un-
packaged ice cream and minced meat as hot weather tends to
make food go bad faster. In short, stick to boiled, baked, fried,
or peeled goods.
Cope
Publications
Bangkok Post, . One of the better English-language news-
papers of the country, but also includes sections on travel,
leisure, entertainment, life and classifieds in Bangkok.
BK Magazine, . Bangkok's premier city living magazine; a
guide to the city's restaurants, nightlife, travel, arts and
more. New additions release weekly and are distributed in
selected venues.
Medical tourism
Bangkok's hospitals offer generally high quality services at
a fraction of the cost of a Western hospital. Probably the
best-regarded (and most expensive) is Bumrungrad Hospital
in Sukhumvit, which (for example) charges 60,000 baht for
an all-inclusive breast implant package. Bangkok is also well-
known as a center for sexual reassignment surgery for people
wishing to change their physical sex, although this falls out
of the scope of a casual vacation. Hospitals can be found all
over the city, but the ones particularly interesting for medical
tourism can be found in Sukhumvit, Silom, Phahonyothin and
Ratchadaphisek.
Those same districts have proper dental clinics with Eng-
lish-speaking dentists and staff. The largest of them is
the Bangkok International Dental Center with branches in
Ratchadaphisek and Siam Square. There are also plenty of
teeth whitening, implant and orthodontic centers over town.
Immigration office
The Immigration Bureau has moved from central Soi Suan Plu
to far-away Government Building B in Chaeng Wattana Soi 7
(+66-2-141-9889, , M-F 8:30AM-noon, 1PM-4:30PM). The center
is in the far north of Bangkok near the old Don Muang Airport.
It is a spacious building with a ground floor cafe, restaurants
and copy vendors. Visas, re-entry permits and many other im-
migration services are available. It is best to take the Skytrain to
Mo Chit station and then hail a taxi to the government center.
Services for Myanmarese, Cambodian and Lao citizens remain
at Soi Suan Plu.
26
 Bangkok Bangkok Get out

Get out

Central Plains
If you want to get out of the city for a while, there are plenty of
day trip options from Bangkok.

Amphawa interesting floating market popular with the

locals
Ayutthaya ancient capital showcasing its many ruins, 1.5
hours away by bus or train
Bang Pa-In its magnificent Summer Palace makes for a
pleasant day trip
Damnoen Saduak picture-perfect floating market on
tourist steroids
Hua Hin beach resort town popular with Thais and Scan-
dinavians
Kanchanaburi the famous Bridge over the River Kwai, the
Erawan Falls and Hellfire Pass
Ko Kret rustic little pottery island to the north of Bangkok,
a pleasant day trip out of the concrete jungle
Nakhon Pathom Thailand's oldest city and site of the
world's largest stupa
Samut Prakan mostly visited for the Ancient City open air
museum

Further destinations
Bangkok is also an excellent hub for onward travel into other
regions of Thailand.

27
 Districts Districts

DISTRICTS

Districts

Bangkok is a huge and modern city humming with nightlife

and fervor. Administratively, it is split up into 50 districts
( khet), which are further split into 154 subdistricts (
khwaeng), but these are more often used in official business
and for addresses. Visitors will find the conceptual division be-
low of the main areas more useful for getting around.

Map of Central Bangkok

Map of Bangkok

Around Bangkok are the provinces of Nakhon Pathom to the

west, Nonthaburi to the northwest, Pathum Thani to the north,
Chachoengsao to the east, Samut Prakan to the southeast and
Samut Sakhon to the southwest.

28
 Districts
SIAM SQUARE
Understand
While Rattanakosin represents Thailand's history and culture,
Siam Square represents Thailand as a newly industrializing
economy. Siam Square's first buildings were only construct-
ed in the 1970s, on land of Chulalongkorn University which
tried to get some extra rental income for the university. It start-
ed with ordinary shops, but has since expanded to a shop-
ping and entertainment mecca that has everything upper-class
teenagers and college students could possibly want luxu-
ry shopping malls and glitzy department stores filled with de-
signer labels and hip fashion boutiques.
Despite the name, it is not a square in the traditional sense.
It could better be described as a warren of small sois filled
with hundreds of tiny boutiques, restaurants, cafes, record
stores and bookshops, mostly catering to upper-class 20-
something Thais, shopping-spree Malaysians, and working ex-
pats. If you're not up for a trip to the Gap or a pink martini, it's
still worth a visit just to see the Bangkok-of-the-future. The area
north of Rama I Road does feature some kind of courtyard on
the second floor, which functions as the entry point for the Si-
am Center, Siam Discovery Center and Siam Paragon shopping
malls.
Going east on Rama I Road, the shopping experience contin-
ues at Ratchaprasong, an area that received worldwide fame
when red shirt-wearing political protesters set up their camp
here in May 2010. It is home to CentralWorld Plaza, the largest
shopping mall in Thailand, which was set on fire during these
protests, though it was restored within a few months. It gets
more quiet as Rama I Road changes its name into Phloen Chit
Road in the east. There are some shops and restaurants here,
but the area is mostly home to foreign embassies and airline
offices.
Siam Square Understand
Get in
Map of Siam Square
By public transit
Siam Square is the most central neighborhood of Bangkok and
can be reached by both the Sukhumvit Line and the Silom Line
of the BTS Skytrain system. The easiest entry point is Siam sta-
tion, right on top of Siam Square and in the middle of the entire
Siam area. It acts as the exchange station between both lines,
so expect a lot of commuters during rush hour. The Sukhumvit
Line continues east and passes Chit Lom station, which is close
to Ratchaprasong, and Phloen Chit which serves the road of the
same name. One stop west of Siam on the Silom Line is Nation-
al Stadium, a handy stop that's close to MBK, Jim Thompson's
House and the cheap guesthouses at Soi Kasemsan 1.
The Sukhumvit Line and the Silom Line provide direct connec-
tions with the districts of the same name. There is also a di-
rect connection with Phahonyotin and the Chatuchak Week-
end Market if you take the Sukhimvit Line to the north. If you're
coming from Rattanakosin or Khao San Road, you'll first need
to take the Chao Phraya Express Boat to Sathorn (Taksin) pier.
From there, continue your way along the Silom Line to Siam
station. The whole ride takes around 40 minutes (but is easier
than trying to find the right bus!)
By boat
If you're staying at Khao San Road, the Saen Saep Express Boat
is your best bet to get to Siam Square. It is only a short walk to
the Golden Mount in Rattanakosin, where you can get on the
boat. The service operates every day from 5:30AM to 8:30PM.
The Golden Mount Line brings you to Sapan Hua Chang pier for
Siam Square, and terminates at Pratunam pier (for Ratchapra-
song intersection). You can switch to the NIDA Line at Pratu-
nam pier, which brings you to Chitlom, Wireless and on to
Sukhumvit and Ramkhamhaeng. A single trip from Panfa Lee-
29
 Districts
lard pier at the Golden Mount to Sapan Hua Chang takes about
25 minutes and costs around 9 baht.
By bus
Siam Square is among the most congested districts of Bangkok.
Combine that with the complexity of the bus system, and it's
obvious that you're better off using other ways of transport.
However, if you're coming from or going to the Grand Palace
area in Rattanakosin, the bus is the only way to get a direct con-
nection. Bus 15 starts at Phra Athit Road and then drives over
Ratchadamnoen Klang Road (for Khao San Road), Lan Luang
Road, Chakkaphatdi Phong Road and Bamrung Muang Road
before arriving at MBK Center, Siam Square and Ratchaprasong
intersection. This bus then continues to Silom Road, so take it
in the other direction if you're coming from there.
See
Bangkok Art and Culture Centre
(), 939 Rama I Rd Paragon, 991 Rama 1 Rd (BTS Siam), +66-2-687-2000, .
(BTS National Stadium), +66-2-214-6630(-8), . Tu-Su
10AM-10PM, M closed. Interactive museums are the new
hype in the artistic community of Bangkok, thus we have an-
other one. Visitors can interact with different kinds of arts,
such as performance arts, music, painting and film, in vari-
ous ways. On display are more than 300 works by Thai and
international artists. Some of the temporary exhibitions can
be good as well. Free.
Erawan Shrine ( Saan Phra Phrom), 494
Ratchadamri Rd (BTS Chit Lom, in front of the Grand
Hyatt Erawan Hotel at Ratchaprasong intersection),
+66-2-254-1234, . 6AM-midnight daily. A Hindu shrine that
houses a statue of Phra Phrom, the Thai representation of
the Hindu creation god Brahma. Free.
Jim Thompson's House ( ), 6 Soi tual history of Thailand. Wat Pathum was founded in 1857
Kasemsan 2 (BTS National Stadium), +66-2-216-7368, .
9AM-5PM daily. The infamous CIA operative Jim Thompson
revived the Thai silk industry after World War II and had this
house assembled from six traditional Thai-style houses. You
must take the guided tour through the buildings, which are
given in plenty of foreign languages. Get there early to beat
the heat. 100 baht.
Madame Tussaud's (),
6F, Siam Discovery Center, 989 Rama I Rd (BTS Siam),
+66-2-658-0060, . 10AM-10PM daily. Everyone knows
Madame Tussaud's, the popular museum displaying wax-
works of famous people. The Bangkok branch features life-
sized statues of HRH Prince Mahitala Thibed Adulyadej
Vikrom Phra Baroma Rajajanok (The Prince Father), HRH
Princess Srinagarindra (The Princess Mother) and other im-
portant Thai individuals. But there are also plenty of West-
ern figures, including Barack Obama in the oval office and
Siam Square See
the English football player Steven Gerrard. Foreigners have
to comply with a hefty 900 baht price tag, while Thais chip
in for 350 baht. 900 baht.
Queen Savang Vadhana Museum, Sra Pathum Palace, 195
Phaya Thai Rd (BTS Siam; entrance is near Siam Paragon),
+66-2-252-1965(-7), . F-Sa 10AM-4PM, Su-Th closed. The
Sra Pathum Palace is an oasis of silence right behind Siam
Paragon. It has been the permanent residence of HM Queen
Savang Vadhana from 1916 till 1955, and HRH Princess
Sri Nagarindra has also lived here. When HRH Princess Sri
Nagarindra passed away, it became the residence of HRH
Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn. She turned one build-
ing into a museum that honors the Queen Grandmother
and shows her contributions to Thai society. The museum
starts in the exhibition hall, that shows HM Queen Savang
Vadhana's biography, and then moves to her residence, the
Phra Tamnak Yai building. Make a reservation in advance
and request an English-speaking guide (at no extra cost). 150
baht.
Siam Ocean World (), 1-2F, Siam
9AM-10PM daily. The largest aquarium in Southeast Asia, ex-
hibiting over 30,000 marine animals from all over the world
and featuring a wide range of rare and exotic species. The
area of the aquarium spans over 10,000 square meters, as
wide as two football fields. The aquarium also offers a "dive
with the sharks" program where you can scuba dive in the
oceanarium side by side with sharks and rays, plus a "Sanyo
4D Xventure" with specially rigged seats to add a kick to the
typical 3D movie experience. 900 baht.
Wat Pathum Wanaram (), Rama I Rd (BTS
Siam, between Siam Paragon and CentralWorld Plaza).
7AM-6PM daily. Right between Siam Paragon and Central-
World Plaza in the middle of consumerism, this temple is
often overlooked. While it is not as remarkable as the tem-
ples found in Rattanakosin, it does remind us of the spiri-
by King Mongkut (Rama IV) when the area was surrounded
by canals and rice fields. It was built to function as a place
of worship close to the Sra Pathum Palace. At the temple is
the Phra Meru Mas, a reconstruction of the crematorium of
the Princess Mother, whose remains were transferred here
after her cremation at Sanam Luang. During the May 2010
red shirt protests, this temple functioned as a safe haven for
protesting women and children. Free.
Do
APEX, Siam Square Soi 1, +66-2-252-6498, . 10AM-11PM
daily. The theaters of APEX were built in the late 1960s and
have changed little ever since; going to the movies here is
a kind of retro experience not found in other cinemas. It is
widely known for its more offbeat and art house films. It is
spread over two theaters: Lido Theatre has three screens,
30
 Districts Siam Square Buy

usually with Japanese, Korean and other foreign films on

show, while Scala Theatre only has one screen with first-run
Buy
Hollywood movies. Unfortunately, the late 1960s Siam The-
atre has been destroyed in fires that resulted from the 2010 Siam Square
red shirt demonstrations. It is rumored to be replaced with a
new shopping complex. 100 baht.

Center Point Massage, 2F, 266/3 Siam Square Soi 3 (BTS Si-
am, exit 2, then walk into Soi 3, turn left at the Costume shop,
walk on and turn left again at Siam Fruit), +66-2-658-4597, .
10AM-midnight daily. Worth seeking out as they do nice,
reasonably priced Thai, herbal, oil and foot massages, as
well as aromatherapy. They also have branches in Silom and
Sukhumvit. 300-950 baht/hour.

I.Sawan Residential Spa & Club, Grand Hyatt Erawan Hotel,

494 Ratchadamri Rd (BTS Ratchadamri), +66-2-254-6310, .
The luxury you'd expect at a five-star hotel, at five-star prices.
Most of their treatments take at least 3 hours, but are famed
as among the best of Thailand. 2200 baht/hour.

Krungsri IMAX Theatre, 5F, Siam Paragon, 991/1 Rama I Rd

(BTS Siam), +66-2-129-4631, . 10AM-midnight daily. Going
to the movies here is a great night out. You get a few hours in
a plush theatre house, complete with air-con, assigned seats
and the newest technology (including IMAX and 3D glasses).
All the new Hollywood releases are featured nightly, but you
can also pick most Thai movies as they have English subti-
tles (but inquire at the desk first if this is the case). Don't for-
get the mandatory standing ovation to the King before the
movie starts. 160 baht.
Paragon Cineplex, 5F, Siam Paragon, 991/1 Rama I Rd (BTS
Siam), +66-2-129-4635, . 10AM-midnight daily. With about
4000 seats and 25 screens, this has got to be one of the
largest cinemas in Asia. The complex includes three sepa-
rately branded cinemas. The Siam Pavalai is a 1200-seat the-
ater, the largest of the bunch and often even home to con-
certs. The six "Ultra Screen" cinemas are much more luxu-
ry with reclining seats. Last but not least, Enigma is a mem-
bers-only cinema with lounge seats. 140 baht.
Royal Bangkok Sports Club (), 1 Henri Dunant
Rd, +66-2-255-4158, . Every two weeks on Sunday
12:30PM-6PM. This is a venue for horse races under royal pa-
tronage. Races are held every two weeks on Sunday. 50-100
baht.
Siam Paragon, touted as "The Pride of Bangkok"
Siam Square is the place to shop in Bangkok, especially if you're
looking for luxury shopping malls and top department stores.
The obvious point of entry is Siam station, surrounded by to
Siam Center, Siam Discovery Center and Siam Paragon. Tech-
nically not a part of the Siam area, but at walking distance, is
the MBK Center (MahBoonKrong). With the exception of Siam
Paragon, these malls are somewhat dated, but among the most
popular as they are the most affordable. At least make a head
for MBK, to see where the local youth does their shopping.
Bonanza Mall, Phaya Thai Rd (BTS National Stadium).
10AM-10PM daily. Across the street from MBK Center and
connected by walkway on the second floor is the perenni-
ally crowded Bonanza Mall. Its warren of stalls offers more
of the same as MBK, thus it is popular among students and
teenagers looking for hip clothes, accessories and cosmet-
ics.
MBK Center (MahBoonKrong), 444 Phaya Thai Rd (BTS Na-
tional Stadium), +66-2-620-9000, . 10AM-10PM daily. MBK
is a vast and always packed mall full of tiny stalls (2500 of
them, to be exact) selling, well, everything. There's a heavy
emphasis on clothing, especially the cheap and trendy teen
type, but the fourth floor devoted to electronics is Bangkok's
best place to buy a mobile phone, MP3 player, digital cam-
era and much much more. Other stuffs on sale are gold, fur-
niture, food, and a part of the sixth floor has been dedicated
to handicrafts and souvenirs. Don't miss the dried fruits and
Chinese-style snacks (like pork floss) at Champ on the fourth
floor, near the central escalator. The top floor has movie the-
atres and restaurants, and there's a large Tokyu department
store bolted on the north side. It is possible to bargain for
cheaper prices on some items at some independent shop

31
 Districts
stalls, especially if you are with a Thai friend or family mem-
ber.
Siam Center, Siam Tower, Rama I Rd (BTS Siam),
+66-2-687-5000, . 9AM-9PM daily. Constructed in 1976, this
four-story mall is the first of the Siam area. It might feel a little
dated compared to Siam Paragon, but it must be said that an
extensive renovation in 1995 made the mall feel colorful, hip
and modern. Most of the stores focus on fashion, shoes and
handbags for trendy teenagers and students. There's also a
good range of eating options, including a food court at the
fourth floor. A bridge at the fourth floor connects the shop-
ping complex with the Siam Discovery Mall.
Siam Discovery Center, Rama I Rd (BTS Siam),
+66-2-345-2345(-9), . 10AM-9PM daily. Siam Discovery Cen-
ter is a newer, more upmarket addition to Siam Center, cater-
ing to a slightly more mature audience. Just like its twin mall,
most stores are for the fashion savvy, but prices are some-
what higher. This is the only mall in Thailand that offers the
official Diesel designer store at the ground floor. Worth a
browse is Loft on the third floor, a large and quirky Japan-
ese home decoration store. They have, among many other
things, an array of bizarre plush toys on offer. The sixth floor
has an EGV Grand Cinema.
Siam Paragon, 991 Rama I Rd (BTS Siam), +66-2-610-8000, .
10AM-10PM daily. This is an incredibly massive shopping
mall with no less than ten floors. You can almost spend a
full day here, as it is not just a shopping complex, but al-
so includes Siam Ocean World, Paragon Cineplex and plen-
ty of dining facilities. Paragon is one of the most upmar-
ket malls in Asia, so expect the usual designer brands (Louis
Vuitton, Gucci, etc), but also BMW and Porsche showing
off their newest models. The fourth floor has a very good
(if pricey) selection of modern Thai arts and crafts, as well
as the large Kinokuniya bookstore. Great eating options in
the basement, including a gourmet supermarket, two food
courts and a canal-lined strip of fancy restaurants.
Tokyu Department Store, MBK Center, 444 Phaya Thai Rd
(BTS National Stadium), +66-2-620-1000, . 10AM-9PM dai-
ly. Not a mall, but a massive department store that occu-
pies four floors! Every thing you'd expect in a department
store is available, including clothes, luggage, shoes, cosmet-
ics, stationery, household appliances and even a supermar-
ket. There's also a great selection of utensils for cooking Thai,
Japanese, and Western food.
Siam Square Eat
Ratchaprasong
Happy New Year from Ratchaprasong intersection
Heading east is Ratchaprasong, an intersection filled with very
luxury upmarket malls. CentralWorld Plaza, while built in 2002,
was expanded in 2006 topping its nearby rival Siam Paragon as
the largest shopping complex in Thailand (and the third largest
in the world). Surrounding CentralWorld are the Gaysorn Plaza,
Isetan, Narai Phand, Peninsula Plaza, Zen, among others, all
of which together make the largest shopping promenade in
Bangkok. Bring a well-filled wallet though.
Eat
For Thai food with a twist, the hip district of Siam Square is the
best place to go hunting. The shopping malls generally have a
wide choice of chain stores where you can eat for mid-range
prices. If you're on a budget, every mall that takes itself seri-
ously at least has one food court. Soi Ton Son, a sidestreet of
Phloen Chit Road, is known as Bangkok's Little Italy with plen-
ty of nice Italian restaurants. The best are both very good and
reasonably priced (at least by Western standards).
Food courts
If you want cheap food and air-conditioning, head into the
upper-floor food court of any mall or department store. Food
courts come in many varieties, from basic snack places to eclec-
tic cuisine. Most food courts use some variation of a coupon
system; unused coupons are always refunded. Some of the bet-
ter ones include:
Big C Food Court, 5F, Big C, 97/11 Ratchadamri Rd (oppo-
site CentralWorld Plaza), +66-2-250-4888, . 9AM-11PM dai-
ly. New, bright, airy and very cheap with mostly Thai dishes
as low as 20 baht. Payment with a stored-value card. Note:
Big C is closed for the time being due to heavy protest fires
in May 2010. 50 baht.
Central Food Hall, 1F, Central Chidlom, 1027 Phloen Chit
Rd (BTS Chit Lom, hidden behind the TOPS Supermarket
in the same building as FoodLoft), +66-2-655-7648(-52), .
32
 Districts
9AM-10PM daily. It offers Thai fare (and English menus) at
much cheaper prices than FoodLoft. 50 baht.
FoodLoft: calling this a food court is almost derogatory
FoodLoft, 7F, Central Chidlom, 1027 Phloen Chit Rd (BTS Chit
Lom), +66-2-793-7070, . 10AM-10PM daily. This chic dining
venue with a hip and trendy black, metallic and red colour
theme is large and popular among Central's visitors. This is
one of the most upmarket food courts, and could even be
described as a culinary experience on its own: eight cook-
ing islands represent quality restaurants that serve different
cuisines, including Thai, Japanese, Chinese, Korean, Italian,
Malay and Vietnamese (desert is also represented by one is-
land). It is fairly expensive with most dishes close to 100 baht.
Dinnertime at Fridays and Saturdays have live music. You re-
ceive a 1000 baht voucher on entry and pay for what you've
used on exiting. 150 baht.
MBK Food Court, 5-6F, MBK Center, 444 Phaya Thai Rd (BTS
National Stadium), +66-2-620-9000, . 10AM-10PM daily.
You might not expect it, but this is a really good find! Food
court "The Fifth", as you might expect, is at the fifth floor,
and has recently been refurbished. It has a couple of "cui-
sine islands" each featuring an assortment of food from a dif-
ferent country, including Indian, Indonesian, Italian, Japan-
ese, Mexican and Thai food. Western, Asian, halal and vege-
tarian dishes from 50 baht up. Paying goes by an electronic
card system, and you pay as you leave. The food court at the
sixth floor is very cheap with less than 50 baht per serving.
It is popular, but noisy, and serves tasty Thai food including
some you have probably never heard of before. Paying goes
by coupon. 50 baht.
Siam Paragon Food Court, 1F, Siam Paragon, 991/1 Rama I
Rd (BTS Siam), +66-2-610-8000, . 10AM-10PM daily. This
food court covers a large part of Siam Paragon's ground
floor. It is divided in three sections, a general food court (pay
by coupon), a more upmarket food court (pay by electron-
ic card) and a take away counter. The whole place is enor-
mous with many different joints selling different kinds of
food, such as Isaan, Thai, Vietnamese, Chinese and interna-
tional. 50-100 baht.
Siam Square Drink
Budget
Hong Kong Noodle, 430/3-4 Siam Square Soi 3 (BTS Si-
am, near the corner of Soi 2 and Soi 3), +66-2-254-8755
(hknd_thailand@hotmail.com). 10AM-10PM daily. Serves up
cheap and tasty wonton noodles, a selection of dim sum and
more Cantonese favorites in modern, if utilitarian, surround-
ings complete with air-conditioning and table service. 30-40
baht.
Ka-nom, 266/8 Siam Square Soi 3 (BTS Siam),
+66-2-508-7366, . 10AM-9PM daily. Everyone who has been
to Macau knows how delicious they are: Portuguese-style
egg tarts. They don't come very cheap, but are hand-baked
right in front of you. They also have cakes, pies, breads and
croissants. 40 baht each.
Pisces, 36/6 Soi Kasemsan 1 (BTS National Stadium, in the
middle of the street at the left). 8AM-1PM, 5PM-10:30PM dai-
ly. This simple Thai (and vegetarian) restaurant is popular for
breakfast among backpackers who stay at the nearby guest
houses. Its interior looks good and is colorful, and the lady
who runs it is really nice. Service can be a tad slow though.
60 baht.
Drink
Coffee
Branches of Starbucks and the more local Black Canyon Coffee
can be found in all the malls and even at the largest BTS sta-
tions.
Kaldi, 4F, MBK Center, 444 Phaya Thai Rd (BTS National Stadi-
um), +66-2-626-0407 (info@kaldi.co.th), . 10AM-10PM dai-
ly. This popular Japanese coffee chain has a branch at MBK,
and is an excellent way to refresh after all the shopping. They
have the usual coffee, tea, smoothies, juices and soft drinks,
as well as small snacks. The best part is that they have a WiFi
hotspot, so you can check your mail while sipping a hot cap-
puccino. 50 baht.
Bars
Siam Square is not that well-known for its nightlife, as shops
tend to close about 10PM and the area gets pretty silent after-
wards. Most visitors head off to Sukhumvit or Silom, but Siam
Square does have some relaxing bars on offer.
In the winter time (recursively defined in Thailand as "beer gar-
den season"), popular beer gardens pop up in front of Central-
World Plaza, serving up cold beer, hot food and loud Thai pop.
Brown Sugar, 231/19-20 Sarasin Rd (BTS Ratchadam-
ri), +66-2-250-1826. M-F 11AM-2PM, 5PM-1AM, Sa-Su
5PM-1AM. This place is known as one of Bangkok's better
33
 Districts
live jazz bars. The food and drinks are passable, but the peo-
ple come here for the atmosphere, which is lively and re-
laxed. The interior is really chic, but expect to pay for it. Be
careful to check the bill as the waiters are known to mess
around with it.
Hard Rock Cafe, 424/3-6 Siam Square Soi 11 (BTS Siam),
+66-2-251-0797, . M-Sa 9AM-7PM. Everyone knows the Hard
Rock Cafe, and this is just like the other ones around the
globe: rock 'n' roll music all night long, the typical Hard Rock
Cafe merchandise and live bands every night. But this is the
only one that has a beautiful tuktuk coming out of the exte-
rior.
Nightclubs
There are a couple of after hours clubs in Rong Muang Soi 1, in
the backstreets of Siam Square (access via Rong Muang Soi 5,
off Rama I Road):
Sleep
Accommodation in almost all price ranges can be found with-
in this area. Hotels in the Hualamphong Train Station area are
covered in Yaowarat and Phahurat.
Budget
Soi Kasemsan 1
Just at the foot of the National Stadium station, directly across
from the stadium itself, is Soi Kasemsan 1, a convenient and
quiet lane filled with budget hotels. Most of the guest houses
are along the left side of the street as you walk in from Rama
I Road. The soi is close to Siam Square, and Jim Thompson's
House is only one block away.
Contact
Typical room offered at Soi Kasemsan 1
A-One Inn, 25/13 Soi Kasemsan 1 (BTS National Stadium, on
the right side of the street if coming from Rama I Rd),
Siam Square Sleep
+66-2-215-3029, . A decent guest house that is quite popu-
lar among backpackers that can afford a little more. A-One
has a luggage room and WiFi access for anyone toting their
laptop (24 hours of access costs 100 baht for guests and 150
baht for walk-ins). The rooms are functional, if less than in-
spiring. 600-700 baht.
Muangphol Mansion, 931/9 Soi Kasemsan 1 (BTS National
Stadium), +66-2-219-4445, . This guest house faces onto
Rama I Road, but you have to enter from Soi Kasemsan 1. The
ground floor has Internet terminals and a restaurant that is
open 24 hours. 800-1100 baht.
Reno Hotel, 40 Soi Kasemsan 1 (BTS National Stadium),
+66-2-215-0026-(7). A clean, remodeled hotel that has
breakfast included. There is a nice pool in the nothing-fancy
patio area. The rooms on the front are dark and a bit noisy.
Rooms by the back or pool are very pleasant. The friendly
staff provide laundry, checked luggage, and a travel desk.
780-1100 baht.
The Bed & Breakfast, 36/42-43 Soi Kasemsan 1 (BTS Nation-
al Stadium), +66-2-215-2493. Probably one of the clean-
est budget hotels in this area, though obviously don't expect
much else from the rooms. It is run by a family that handles
their customers friendly and professional. As the name sug-
gests you get a daily breakfast, but don't be surprised when
you get the same meal every morning. 800 baht.
Wendy House, 36/2 Soi Kasemsan 1 (BTS National Stadium,
far into the soi at the left side), +66-2-214-1149, . This ho-
tel is very popular and seems to fill up quickly. International
phones, phone cards and Internet are available in the lobby.
The PCs are configured for English, Swedish, and Japanese.
Breakfast is included. 900-1200 baht.
White Lodge, 36/8 Soi Kasemsan 1 (BTS National Stadium),
+66-2-216-8867. Probably one of the cheapest guest houses
in the soi, this one is truly for backpackers who just need a
cheap room and no frills. It is clean though, and the rooms
are fairly large in size. Also the staff is welcoming. 400 baht.
True Urban Park, 3F, Siam Paragon, 991 Rama I Rd (BTS Si-
am), +66 2-610-8888. 10AM-10PM daily. Built by commu-
nication conglomerate TRUE at a cost of US$1 million, this
is not just an internet cafe, but a hip "lifestyle experience"
that is also a flower shop and bookstore. It is complete with
funky chairs, iPod listening stations and sonic bubbles hang-
ing over your head, and a live DJ is playing. Try the iced cafe
mocha. 50 baht/hour.
UCC Cafe City 21, 1F, Siam Center, 989 Rama I Rd (BTS Si-
am), +66-2-658-1716, . 9AM-9PM daily. Easily accessible at
the ground floor of the Siam Center, this trendy and open
cafe has free internet terminals available. On the menu are
34
 Districts Siam Square Cope

different varieties of coffee (including Japanese coffee) and

deserts. Free.

Cope
Bangkok International Dental Center (BIDC), 205/2-3 Phaya
Thai Rd (BTS Siam, exit 4), +66-658-4774, . M-Sa
10AM-8PM, Su 10AM-5PM.

Get out
Pratunam is 600 meters north of Ratchaprasong intersection
with plenty of shopping centers, malls and markets.
The shopping spree also continues east, when Phloen Chit
Road changes its name into Sukhumvit Road.

35
 Districts Sukhumvit Understand

history dating back to the ninth century, when it connected

SUKHUMVIT Bangkok with the cities upstream the river. Since 1981, it has
lost most of its economic relevance when the larger Laem Cha-
bang Port near Pattaya took over business.

Understand
Sukhumvit Road is not only one of the longest roads in Thai-
Get in
land, but one of the longest roads in the world. Towards the
west end it changes name to Phloen Chit Road and Rama I Road
as it enters the Siam Square area, but to the east it runs most of
the way to the Cambodian border. The sois are numbered from
west to east, with odd numbers north and even numbers south
of Sukhumvit Road. The sois on the north and south sides of
Sukhumvit don't line up; for example, Soi 33 is opposite Soi 24.
Confusing is that these sois also have names of their own (for
example, Soi 55 is better known as Soi Thong Lo) and these sois
can also have sois of their own (such as Thong Lo Soi 1).

Looking at the high-rise apartment buildings, the Skytrain and

the perennial traffic jam on Sukhumvit Road, it is hard to be-
lieve that this area used to consist of rice fields until World War
II. After the war, this area became developed with large con-
temporary villas catering to the upper class. As property values
kept rising, developers have been buying more and more land
and cashed them in by constructing big apartment high-rises.
The construction of the BTS Skytrain in 1999, covering most of
Map of Sukhumvit
Sukhumvit Road, has increased the popularity of this district
even more.

The lowered-numbered sois (roughly between Soi 1 and 63)

are a popular residential area for western expatriates and afflu-
ent Thais. It is densely packed with shopping centers, restau-
rants and hotels. The fleshpots of Nana Entertainment Plaza (in
Soi 4) and Soi Cowboy (between Soi 21 and 23) are also in this
area, as are plenty of more (and less) salubrious bars. Also, the
pavements of Sukhumvit itself has become a huge market car-
rying everything from luggage to fake Rolex watches, and after
midnight they turn into pavement cafes and bars. Sukhumvit
offers the best dining in Bangkok, from five-star dining to street Map of Nana
stands, the variety of choices and tastes are almost overwhelm-
ing. Japanese nationals can be found in the area Soi 21 and By public transit
upwards, but most tend to congregate around Soi 55. Indians
have settled around Soi 12, while Arabs are grouped at Soi 3/1, Skytrain
which informally is known as Soi Arab. After Soi 63, Thais take
over again, though this might change when the Skytrain exten- The BTS Sukhumvit Line runs, as the name suggests, entirely
sion is completed in late 2011. over Sukhumvit Road from west to east. Sukhumvit can direct-
ly be reached by Skytrain if you're coming from Siam Square or
South of Sukhumvit's sois lies Khlong Toey, which, if recog- Phahonyothin. A ride from Mo Chit takes about 25 minutes to
nized at all, foreigners only know for the Khlong Toey Market. reach Asok station, while a ride from Siam station takes about
Khlong Toey is a borough, a market and a port, all named after 10 minutes. If you're coming from Silom, you'll need to take the
the canal that flows through the area. It means "canal of pan- Silom Line north and change onto the Sukhumvit Line at Si-
dan" as that plant used to grow along the southern bank of the am station. It takes about 20 minutes for a ride from Saphan
canal. A large part of it was filled up to make way for Rama IV Taksin station to reach Asok station, including the transfer at
Road in 1947. South (and under) the Chalerm Maha Nakhon Ex- Siam. Trains leave every five to ten minutes for a fare of about
pressway are the infamous Khlong Toey slums, generally unex- 15 to 40 baht.
plored by even the most adventurous travelers. At the banks
of the Chao Phraya river is the Khlong Toey Port, which has a

36
 Districts
The following BTS stations are currently present in Sukhumvit
(from west to east): Nana, Asok, Phrom Phong, Thong Lo, Ekka-
mai, Phra Khanong and On Nut. Each station serves the neigh-
borhood of the same name. Asok is the most convenient sta-
tion as it is in the center of Sukhumvit and has a direct trans-
fer with Bangkok's MRT metro system. In the following years,
the Sukhumvit Line will extend even further south connecting
other residential areas in the south of the city.
Metro
If you're coming from Silom or Ratchadaphisek, you can direct-
ly reach Sukhumvit by Bangkok's MRT metro system. The most
convenient station is Sukhumvit, which is right in the middle of
the district and with a possible transfer onto the BTS Sukhumvit
Line. The other stations in the district are Khlong Toei and
QSNCC. The metro ride from Silom takes about ten minutes,
while the ride from Ratchadaphisek takes about 15 minutes.
Trains leave every five to ten minutes for a fare of about 15 to
40 baht.
By boat
The Saen Saep Express Boat service is a rough, but entertain-
ing way of getting in and around Sukhumvit. The Saen Saeb
canal forms the northern boundary of Sukhumvit's sois and is
a cheap alternative means of escaping the traffic jams if you're
coming from Khao San Road, the eastern side of Rattanakosin
or Ramkhamhaeng.
There are two lines: The Golden Mount Line runs from Panfa
Leelard near the Golden Mount in Rattanakosin east to Pratu-
nam near Ratchaprasong intersection. The NIDA Line runs from
Pratunam all the way northeast along Ramkhamhaeng Road
to Wat Sriboonreung. A single trip from Panfa Leelard to Nana
Nua takes about 35 minutes and costs 13 baht. You must switch
boats at Pratunam. Other stops along Sukhumvit's northern
sois (from west to east) are Nana Chard, Asoke-Petchaburi,
Prasanmit, Italthai, Wat Mai Chonglom, Baan Don Mosque, Soi
Thonglor, Charn Issara and Vijit School.
If you're coming from the Grand Palace area in Rattanakosin,
there are two ways to get into Sukhumvit. The fastest way is
to take the Chao Phraya Express Boat to Sathorn (Taksin) pier
in Silom. From there, continue your way north using the BTS
Skytrain Silom Line. You'll need to switch trains at Siam BTS sta-
tion and continue your way east onto the Sukhumvit Line. The
whole ride from Rattanakosin takes about 40 minutes. You can
also choose to take the 30-minutes walk (or a five minutes taxi
ride) to Panfa Leelard pier and continue your journey using the
Saen Saep Express Boat.
By bus
This first tip on bus travel is one to remember: do not do
it! Sukhumvit Road is probably the most congested road of
Bangkok and traffic jams exist the whole day till late in the
evening. Also, it is really hard to find out which bus goes where
Sukhumvit Do
or where to get out. Better take the Skytrain, metro or express
boat, even if it costs a little more.
Do
Focus on yourself and get pampered at one of the many mas-
sage establishments around Sukhumvit. Some of the better
ones include:
Happy Feet, Sukhumvit Soi 7 (BTS Nana, behind The Park
Hotel), +66-2-650-3517. 10AM-11PM daily. This massage
parlor offers excellent traditional Thai massage, oil massage,
aromatherapy, foot massage and nail care. 300 baht/hour.
Praiphana, Thong Lo Soi 7 and 9 (BTS Thong Lo),
+66-2-392-6518. 10AM-11PM daily. Another massage parlor,
this one offers a traditional Thai massage, oil massage and
aromatherapy, manicures and pedicures. For 15 baht, you
can get a 15-minute neck and shoulder massage. 300 baht/
hour.
Hatthai Massage, Sukhumvit Rd (near exit 1 of BTS Thong Lo,
close to the 7-Eleven). A traditional two-hour Thai massage
is given upstairs, where patrons are separated by curtains,
which are often opened up so masseuses can chit chat. A
90-minutes reflexology foot massage is done at ground lev-
el, opposite a large television; try not to doze off. It is popu-
lar with Japanese businessmen staying at the nearby Grand
Tower Inn. 300 baht/2 hours.
For a more upmarket experience, head for a spa.
Leyana Day Spa and Garden, Soi To Sak, 33 Thong Lo Soi 13
(BTS Thong Lo, walk into Soi Thong Lo, take a left into Thong
Lo Soi 13, then a right into Soi Torsak), +66-2-874-4461, .
M-F 11AM-10PM, Sa-Su 10AM-10PM. This spa is specialized
in half-day packages designed for couples. Getting there is
quite a hike, but you can get a free transfer from the BTS sta-
tion if you request this beforehand. 5500 baht/3 hours.
Center Point Massage, Sukhumvit Road Soi 24. Offers excel-
lent traditional massage in a soothing environment.
Bliss Massage & Spa, Sukhumvit Road Soi 33. Offers tradition-
al Thai massage, head and foot massage along with a "fish
spa" - wherein you immerse your feet in a tank of water and
little fish nibble away at the dead skin.
37
 Districts
Learn
Chacrit Muay Thai School
If you are one of the more sporty types who like to keep active
on your vacation, the national sport of Muay Thai or Thai Box-
ing is a great way to stay in shape.
Other learning activities include cooking and meditating.
Chacrit Muay Thai School, Washington Square, Sukhumvit
Soi 22 (BTS Phrom Phong, enter Washington Square either
from Sukhumvit Rd or from Soi 22), +66-8-9499-2052, . M-
Sa 8AM-8PM. Accredited Muay Thai school teaching Muay
Thai to novices and professionals. Academic visas can be
arranged for long term foreign students. 500-5500 baht.
(1343'55.57N,10033'59.77E)
Face Cooking School, 29 Sukhumvit Soi 38 (BTS Thong Lo),
+66-2-713-6048, . M-Sa 8:45AM-1PM, 1:15PM-4:30 PM, Su
closed. Face Bangkok is some of the most impressive dining
venues in the city, and being able to learn cooking here is a
good option. They have three different restaurants offering
Thai, Indian and Japanese food, and thus the cooking school
offers classes in these cuisines. 2500 baht.
World Fellowship of Buddhists, 2F, 616 Benchasiri Park,
Soi Methi Niwet (BTS Phrom Phong, off Soi Sukhumvit
24), +66-2-661-1284(-90), . First Sunday of the month
2PM-5:30PM. Offers meditation classes in English every af-
ternoon on the first Sunday of every month. The office also
provides information on places to learn and practice medita-
tion in Thailand. Classes and information are free of charge.
Free.
Buy
As Sukhumvit is one of Bangkok's main thoroughfares, the
long road is lined with shops, boutiques and modern shop-
ping plazas ranging from Soi 3 (Soi Nana Nuea) up to Soi 63
(Soi Ekkamai). Most shops and restaurants are concentrated
between Soi 3 and Soi 21 (Asoke Rd) and along shortcuts be-
tween Asoke and Ekkamai.
Sukhumvit Learn
Markets
Shopping in Sukhumvit starts on the street. The pavement
is cramped with endless roadside stalls that offer many of
the same items as the Patpong Night Market, such as sou-
venirs, accessories, knock-off clothes, pornographic DVDs, pi-
rated movies and other junk. Prices are somewhat better than
in Patpong though. The stalls are open most of the day, and on-
ly seem to close late in the evening. The stores are at the main
thoroughfare from Soi 1 till Soi 20. The part between Nana and
Asok stations is particularly a hard walk, as many pedestrians
queue up at the stalls to take a look. Haggling is generally ex-
pected, but it'll only save you a few more baht.
Khlong Toey Market, Rama IV Rd (south of MRT Queen Sirikit
National Convention Center at the corner of Rama IV Rd and
Ratchadaphisek Rd). Open 24 hours. Huge and surprisingly
central, this market is definitely off the tourist trail. The stalls
sell goods for Thais, at Thai prices. It is basically a food market
with meat, seafood and farm products on sale, accompanied
by the usual second hand clothes stalls. It is always open, but
best experienced in the early hours of the evening.
Malls and department stores
If you're looking for more upscale shopping, there are plenty of
malls and department stores throughout Sukhumvit Road. The
best one for fashion is Emporium, but for the rest you're better
off taking the Skytrain to Siam Square. At Thong Lo, all things
are cool, be it clothes, gadgets or interior design. It could be
called the "Siam Square of Sukhumvit" with its hip fashion bou-
tiques, trendy designer stores and overall swanky appearance.
Emporium
Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Phrom Phong),
+66-2-269-1000, . 10AM-10PM daily. This upmarket mall,
with selections of everything in design, including watch-
es, cosmetics and clothes, is the top competitor to
Ratchaprasong's Gaysorn Plaza. The lower floors are ded-
icated to brands like Louis Vuitton and Rolex, but (unlike
Gaysorn) it has more affordably priced goods on the upper
38
 Districts
levels. Kinokunyia book store has a large selection of English
language books, including travel-related ones. The top floor
is home to one of the nicest cinemas in the city after Siam
Paragon (and somewhat less pricey than that one) and the
Thailand Creative and Design Center. Emporium also has a
popular food court and a good selection of restaurants on
the fifth floor. A very upscale happening (and crowd), this
place challenges the idea of food courts as being simple
places to have a snack after shopping. Park Food Hall serves
an extensive three-course meal with wine in a dimly-lit at-
mosphere. You can also go to the regular food court, which
is comparatively small and hidden behind the other restau-
rants, but cheap and often packed. At peak hours it's difficult
to get a seat if you're alone. The prices have been increasing
over the past years though.
J Avenue, 323/1 Thong Lo Soi 15 (BTS Thong Lo). Opened in
2004, this four-story upscale "lifestyle mall" that is typical for
the swanky Thong Lo neighborhood. It is an open-air mall
with giant rain trees inside. Its modern architecture and hip
designer shops are catering to Thong Lo's Japanese crowd
(that's what the J stands for).
K-Village, 93-95 Sukhumvit Soi 26 (BTS Phrom Phong, then
about a 30-minutes walk down Soi 26, so you might want to
take a taxi), +66-2-258-9919(-21), . 10AM-10PM daily. The
so-called "lifestyle malls" are the new hype in Bangkok, and
the newest one is K-Village, which has been in town since
2009. Touted as a "neighborhood lifestyle mall", apparently
this should be a small village where you can meet and know
people. In practice, it's just another upscale mall with super-
markets, restaurants, cafes, spas and (of course) a lot of fash-
ion stores.
Nana Square, 49 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Nana, at the intersec-
tion of Sukhumvit Road and Soi 3), +66-2-253-0192(-4), .
10:30AM-10:30PM daily. Quite a generic shopping mall, but
at a convenient location. It has everything you would expect
from a typical Bangkokian mall, including a food court, Star-
bucks, Watsons and dry cleaner.
Ploenchit Center, 2 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Phloen Chit,
then a short walk through the expressway tunnel),
+66-2-656-8600(-4). This is a small, but decent, shopping
center along the west side of Sukhumvit Road. Although the
name suggests otherwise, it is not actually on Ploen Chit
Road! The ground floor has the typical chain stores (Star-
bucks, McDonald's, Boots), as well as lower-priced cloth-
ing outlets, jewelry shops and a supermarket. Most tourists
don't make it out this far, so most of the visitors are local of-
fice workers from the surrounding buildings. The sixth floor
is one of the cheaper food courts along Sukhumvit Road
with a good selection of Thai dishes. It is mostly popular
among local white collar workers that have lunch here. It
works with a coupon system.
Robinson, 259 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Asok or MRT Sukhumvit,
at the Sukhumvit Rd and Soi 19 intersection),
+66-2-651-1533, . 10AM-10PM daily. Robinson is the well-
Sukhumvit Eat
known department store that is spread all over Bangkok. Its
food court, while still decent, is a bit more expensive than
the others, and you may need to order twice get full. It's in
the basement floor of the building.
Thonglor Midtown (formerly Playground!), Thong Lo Soi 18
(BTS Thong Lo, then a 15-20 minutes walk, or hop on the
songthaew for 6 baht), +66-2-715-9408, . 11AM-9PM daily.
Formerly the quirky uberhip Playground! department store,
now a hip mini-mall with IT, modern design and home acces-
sory stores, plus Vanilla Restaurant, Shiki Japanese cuisine
and a Starbucks.
Stores
If you know where to go, Sukhumvit offers some of the best
stores in bespoke tailoring. Never go to custom tailor shops
that get your suits and shirts ready in 24 hours or less. If you
want quality, go to a reliable tailor which will ask for two to
five sittings, and the whole process will take about a week. For
more information on bespoke tailoring, see the Silom article.
Eat
There is a huge selection of places to eat in and around
Sukhumvit and its side sois, although prices tend to be on the
high side by Thai standards. With practically every cuisine in
the world represented, this is the place to break your pad thai
diet and sample some of the best Japanese, Lebanese or Indian
food you will ever eat.
Budget
While not as much an institution as in Siam Square, the food
courts in any mall or department store are a good option if
you're trying to survive Sukhumvit on budget and want air-
conditioning. Just like in Siam Square, food courts come in
many varieties, from basic snack places to more upscale dining.
The Emporium Mall, Ploenchit Center and Robinson all have
decent food courts (see Buy). Most food courts use some varia-
tion of a coupon system; unused coupons are always refunded.
There are some cheapie sois with excellent street food if you
know where to go:
Soi 7 Seafood Market ( 7), (BTS
Nana). Soi 7 is a good option for seafood. About 30 me-
ters down the soi on the right hand side is a group of Thai
seafood restaurants. The sitting area looks shared, but ac-
tually only the tables in front of the food stalls belong to
that restaurant. So in case you liked the food, remember the
name of 'your' restaurant. Mains go out for about 150 baht,
while a cold beer sets you back 65 baht.
Soi 38 Night Market, Sukhumvit Soi 38 (BTS Thong Lo, exit
4). 8PM-3AM daily. Soi 38 gives you some of the better street
39
 Districts Sukhumvit Eat

food in Bangkok. Not a restaurant in itself, just sit at a table

and order whatever you like from the numerous foodstalls
(they'll figure out the bill for you). You can find the most de-
licious mango and sticky rice ( khao niow
ma muang) in town. Also try the herbal fish ball noodles.
30-60 baht.

Talat Na Sukhumvit Soi 1 ( 1),

Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Phloen Chit). Between Soi 1 and Soi 3 is
a set of street food stalls with the best one furthest from the
street. It is called Oowan Im (literally 'fatty is full'), but is sign-
posted in English with just the word "Seafood" on an other-
wise Thai sign. Seafood is their specialty good things to
order include the "crispy fish in chili sauce", tom yum soup
and any of their Thai salads (such as mixed seafood salad).
The Chinese-style fried vegetables are also delicious.

Budget restaurants are generally hard to find, but the following

are favorites under Bangkok's large expat population:

Ramen Ichiban, 3/7-9 Sukhumvit Soi 24 (BTS Phrom Phong),

+66-2-258-6314. An authentically Japanese greasy-spoon
noodle joint specializing in ramen soup. For less than 100
baht, the large bowl is a good value. 80-150 baht.

Took Lae Dee ( ), Nai Lert Bldg, 87

Sukhumvit Soi 5 (BTS Nana), +66-2-254-2367, . Open 24
hours. Took Lae Dae is a Bangkok institution. Imagine a long
bar counter, only with chefs and food instead of bartenders
and drinks, and a colorful cast of characters thanks to Nana
Plaza across the street. The name literally means cheap and
good and indeed basic fried rice starts at 40 baht, but the
A bathing suit of rubbers at Cabbages and Condoms
cheap Western dishes, many less than 100 baht, are what
makes this place popular. The American breakfast (two eggs,
ham, bacon or sausage, juice, toast, coffee) in particular is a
steal at 47 baht between 6AM-9AM, or 58 baht at any other
time. 50-100 baht.
Mid-range
Thai
Thai food with a modern twist has become particularly popular
the last years. Fusion restaurants are centered around the H1
complex on Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Soi Thong Lo).
Ana's Garden, 67 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (BTS Thong Lo, between
Thong Lo Soi 1 and 3), +66-2-391-1762, . 3PM-midnight
daily. This is a lovely garden restaurant with palm trees and
fountains. A nice Thai dinner here doesn't have to cost you
more than 200 baht. Hidden at the rear is the cool and cozy
Groove Kitchen club with funky house music. Compared to
the crowded clubs of Sukhumvit, this it is definitely a change
of pace into a more relaxed jungle atmosphere. 150-250
baht.
Cabbages and Condoms, 6 Sukhumvit Soi 12 (BTS Asok),
+66-2-229-4610, . 11AM-10PM daily. Run by Thailand's Pop-
ulation and Community Development Association, the odd
name refers to the fact that the NGO promotes agricultural
production as well as condom use; and no prizes for guess-
ing what you'll get after dinner instead of an after-dinner
mint. The food is competent but toned down for the foreign
palate. A bit expensive for what you get but its for an excel-
lent cause. 300 baht.
Check Inn Garden (formerly Check Inn 99), 97 Sukhumvit Rd
(BTS Nana, tucked away between Soi 5 and 7, look for the
white sign with black letters that direct you into a passage-
way), +66-2-252-6706. 5PM-1AM daily. Previous reviews
said this place was straight out of a James Bond movie. How-
ever, it's closer to Rick's Cafe in Casablanca. Check Inn Gar-
den (no longer 99) is an oasis amidst the chaos of the Nana
area. Good Western and Thai menu, a friendly and attentive
staff, and terrific entertainment every night courtesy of three
delightful Philippine singers. At 8:45PM, the music starts and
it turns a bit dark and seedy, but is still a decent place to re-
lax. Happy hour is from 6PM till 8PM. 200 baht.

Kinnaree, 43 Sukhumvit Soi 8 (BTS Nana, about 150 meters

inside the soi on the left), +66-2-256-0328, . 11:30AM-3PM,
6PM-midnight daily. Very nice Thai ambiance and decora-

40
 Districts
tion, great in the evening. Lounge bar and private rooms
upstairs. The different sets of lunch menus are reasonably
priced. The food is excellent and includes dishes hard to find
elsewhere. Some dishes could be more spicy by Thai stan-
dards though. 200-400 baht.
Lemongrass, 5/1 Sukhumvit Soi 24 (BTS Phrom Phong, op-
posite the Emporium), +66-2-258-8637. M-Su 6PM-10PM.
This is a very good if slightly expat-oriented Thai restau-
rant. Located in an old tea house, the ambiance is very
charming and eclectic. The pomelo salad and tom yam kung
() are both excellent. As is usual with popular ex-
pat places, the spicyness has been toned down somewhat.
Also, the service can be a bit hasty. 350-450 baht.
Ruen Mallika, 189 Sukhumvit Soi 22 (it is actually not on Soi
22, it is in a little street off Soi 22, take a right at the 7-11 when
you are heading from Sukhumvit Rd towards Rama IV Rd
and it is about 200-300m on your right), +66-2-663-3211, .
11AM-11PM daily. A very good restaurant in an "antique"
Thai house with a leafy outdoor section. The menu is a huge
picture book which should help in ordering. The staff are
very friendly and wear traditional Thai outfits to complete
the ambiance. 450-650 baht.
Asian
Finding your way around the mindblowing variety in
Sukhumvit might feel a bit daunting at first. One way to ap-
proach the area is to visit its ethnic food neighborhoods. Little
Japan is located near Sukhumvit Soi 33 and across the street
at Sukhumvit Soi 24, with Phrom Phong BTS station strad-
dling the two. There is also a smaller concentration of Japanese
restaurants along Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Soi Thong Lo), notably the
Nihonmura ("Japan Village") in Thong Lo Soi 13.
Akiyoshi, 2F, Taksin Square Bldg, 1521/1 Sukhumvit Rd
(right beside BTS Phra Khanong), +66-2-714-0791. M-
F 11AM-2PM, 5:30PM-10PM, Sa-Su 11AM-10PM. The two
must-tries here are the Japanese-style sukiyaki and the
shabu shabu. The employees will light up a burning pan on
your table and you can just throw in the ingredients yourself.
The food is really delicious, and they will serve until you're
full. The ambiance is best-suited for a group of people. But
better make a reservation if you're coming after 6PM, as it's
often packed. 400-500 baht.
Grande Teppanyaki and Grande Ramen, 25/17-19
Sukhumvit Soi 55 (BTS Thong Lo), +66-2-714-1020. Two
small Japanese restaurants facing each other, popular with
Thais and Japanese alike. Sub-100 baht lunch menus are par-
ticularly good value, but the beef curry with real steak is a
deal at any time of the day. 130 baht, subs 80 baht.
Le Dalat, 47/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23 (BTS Asok or MRT
Sukhumvit, then walk north up Soi 23), +66-2-258-4192.
11AM-2:30PM, 6PM-10PM daily. Two Vietnamese restau-
rants, two locations about a block apart and across the street
from each other. When it's a nice day outside, take a seat in
Sukhumvit Eat
the beautiful tropical garden which is wonderful. The tradi-
tional interior You can get lunch for about 250 baht, which
is a good value. Service can be rough, be especially wary for
the overcharge at the end. 450 baht.
Nihonmura (), 87 Soi Thong Lo 13 (BTS Thong Lo).
Nihonmura, commonly known as Japan Village, is a dining
complex with about a dozen quality Japanese restaurants.
Uomasa (+66-2-392-6575) is the best joint for sashimi (raw
fish). You can order the "Iso" menu, a plate full of sashi-
mi priced at 1600 baht. It seems expensive, but its similar-
ly priced to the generic Japanese chain restaurants, but the
sashimi here is much fresher and of better quality. 350 baht.
Nobu, 414 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (BTS Thong Lo, between Thong
Lo Soi 12 and 14), +66-2-392-5297, . 11AM-2PM, 6PM-mid-
night daily. This is a nice local restaurant. They are very good
for lunch with a large selection of Bento (boxed lunch) spe-
cials. Getting dinner here is a lot more expensive than lunch.
It is focused on fresh seafood and dishes from the Osaka re-
gion of Japan. It's always crowded with Japanese expats that
live in the area. 300 baht.
Sukhumvit Plaza (), 212 Sukhumvit Soi 12
(BTS Asok), +66-2-255-4178. Korean restaurants can be
found scattered throughout Sukhumvit, but a particularly
heavy concentration lurks in Korea Town, the informal name
of Sukhumvit Plaza. There are about a dozen Korean restau-
rants on the ground floor of the complex. These are extreme-
ly authentic though and you may have a little trouble order-
ing if not familiar with Korean food. Price-wise they are on
the steep side Arirang (+66-2-654-0177(-9), ) is among the
more fairly priced ones. 300-500 baht.
Tenderloins, 9 Sukhumvit Soi 33 (BTS Phrom Phong),
+66-2-258-4529, . 10AM-1AM daily. This Australian barbecue
restaurant calls itself a "contemporary upmarket sports bar
and steak house", and even they have to admit that it is a
weird combination. They serve up a good grill, although a
bit on the pricey side. Their 250-baht lunch sets might be a
better idea. Reserving a table is recommended, especially at
weekends. 250-500 baht.
Xuan Mai, 351/3 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (BTS Thong Lo, across the
street from Mercedes-Benz Thong Lo), +66-2-185-2619, .
Tu-Th 11AM-2PM, 5PM-10PM, F-Su 11AM-2PM, 5PM-mid-
night, M closed. Excellent and varied Vietnamese menu,
served by the owner, a charming lady who was a former Viet-
namese beauty queen and FBI operative before moving to
Bangkok to open a restaurant. It has an open kitchen, so you
can see the cooking in action. 250-450 baht.
Vientiane Kitchen, 8 Soi Napha Sap Yaek 1, Sukhumvit Soi
36 (BTS Thong Lo, at the corner of Soi 36 and Soi Napha Sap
Yaek 1), +66-2-258-6171, . noon-midnight daily. This re-
laxed-looking Lao restaurant serves very good Lao food. It
has a nice ambiance featuring a band playing music from
Laos. 150-300 baht.
41
 Districts
Indian and Middle Eastern
A profusion of Middle Eastern fare at Soi Arab (Sukhumvit Soi 3/1)
Soi 3 and Soi 3/1, a short walk from Nana BTS station, are known
as Soi Arab for the heavy concentration of Middle Eastern busi-
nesses in the area; in some spots you will see more signs in Ara-
bic than in Thai! Thanks to a demanding clientele and heavy
competition, the food here is some of the best this side of
Lebanon.
Akbar, 1/4 Sukhumvit Soi 3 (BTS Nana, then walk into Soi 3,
the restaurant will be at the left side), +66-2-255-6935, .
9AM-midnight daily. Being two decades old, this mid-sized
Indian, Pakistani and Middle Eastern restaurant is one of the
most established restaurants in Bangkok. It serves quality
food for reasonable prices. Its location next to Soi Arab is ide-
al as you can compare with other restaurants in the area. Try
the Akbari Chicken. 150-200 baht.
Al Ferdoss, 1F, Schiller's Inn, 77/1-3 Sukhumvit Soi 3/1 (BTS
Nana), +66-2-255-8200(-3). This Lebanese restaurant may
have the ambiance of a motel lobby, which it pretty much
is, but the food here is amazing. Dips and salads (hummus,
tabbouleh, falafel, etc) 80 baht a pop, kebabs 130 baht and
up, and best of all is the excellent oven-fresh naan. Air-con-
ditioning indoors, but move outside for mint tea and some
puffs of the shisha (water pipe). 130 baht.
Beirut Restaurant, B1, Ploenchit Center, 2 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS
Nana), +66-2-656-7377. In an unlikely location, next to a
supermarket in an otherwise nearly desolate shopping mall,
Beirut gets negative points for ambiance but serves up very
good Middle Eastern fare. The basic shawarma in a pita is a
nice simple snack. Don't confuse this one with the Lebanese
restaurant on the ground floor (Cafe de Beyrouth), which is
much more expensive. 90-220 baht.
Indian Host, 30 Soi Sukhumvit 22 (BTS Phrom Phong,
next to Grande Mercure Hotel), +66-2-260-1115, .
11:30AM-11:30PM daily. This restaurant has contemporary
North Indian cuisine and Indo-Chinese fusion dishes. Its food
Sukhumvit Eat
is very authentic and much like you'd taste in India. The ten-
der lamb Raan is their signature dish. 200-400 baht.
Khana Khazana, 153 Sukhumvit Soi 11/1 (BTS Nana),
+66-2-255-2289, . 11AM-midnight daily. Pure Indian vege-
tarian restaurant with North Indian, South Indian and Gu-
jarati food. 200-500 baht.
Masala Art, Unit-L 205, 2F, Thonglor Eight Building, 88 Thong
Lo Soi 8 (BTS Thong Lo), +66-2-713-8357, . 11AM-3PM,
6PM-11PM daily. This is a luxury North Indian restaurant with
its own philosophy. Masala is the Indian word for spice, and
the "art of spices" means that there should be a natural bal-
ance of spices to get healthy, herbal and delicious food. This
restaurant offers a fixed lunch and dinner special. It boasts
a great decor, as well as authentic (and spicy) Indian food.
Prices can be steep though, especially if you opt for a three-
course meal. 220-450 baht.
Mrs Balbir's, 155/1-2 Sukhumvit Soi 11/1 (BTS Nana,
next to Business Inn Hotel), +66-2-651-0498, . Tu-Su
11:30AM-11PM, M closed. Note that after 35 years of opera-
tion, the restaurant has moved to a new location only a few
doors away. The curries are still some of the best in all of
Bangkok, and a good value compared to other Indian restau-
rants along Sukhumvit. It has less than ten tables, but that
just gives it a cozy and personal feeling. Try the chicken tik-
ka, it's delicious. 250-400 baht.
Namuskaar (), 9 Sukhumvit Soi 8 (BTS Nana,
walk down Soi 8 about 20 meters, then take the
first dodgy side-street on the left), +66-2-255-1869
(tonyhora@hotmail.com). 11AM-11PM daily. This restaurant
is known among ex-pats as providing one of the closest
approximations of British-style Indian food. It is definitely
worth it to venture out here as the curries simply are deli-
cious. It doesn't look super fancy or romantic, but it is clean,
comparatively cheap and regular tourists don't know about
this place. Try the chicken korma, or ask Tony, the owner, for
advice. He can make anything you request. 200-250 baht.
Shahrazad, 6/8 Sukhumvit Soi 3/1 (BTS Nana),
+66-2-251-3666. 10AM-2AM daily. Great Middle Eastern,
Malaysian and Indian food. Its dishes are well-served by hi-
jab-clad Thai waitresses with many Arab expats hanging out
here. It's been open since 1983 and one of Soi Arab's oldest
and most respected restuarants. Its decor is very basic, but
the food is amazing. Try the stuffed pigeon. 150-350 baht.
European
Be your Guest' Cafe, 24 Sukhumvit Soi 53 (BTS Thong Lo, exit
1, turn right in Soi 53), +66-8-1637-9047, . 11AM-6PM dai-
ly. Delicious diverse cooking experience with dishes from all
around the world. Soup, salad, sandwich, mains, as well as a
selection of typical French, Thai and fusion food are served.
The cafe also provides a large choice of food for take away
42
 Districts
and delivery. The Villa is also a three-bedroom guest house
in a relaxing tropical garden with private pool. 300 baht.
Crepes & Co., 18/1 Sukhumvit Soi 12 (BTS Asok, then a far
walk; it is further down the street from Cabbages & Con-
doms), +66-2-653-3990, . 9AM-midnight daily. This restau-
rant is a French-Mediterranean crepes place. There is an ex-
tensive selection of crepes, both sweet and savory. There's
also Spanish tapas and some Greek and Moroccan menus on
offer. The atmosphere is homey, as is the garden. The service
is friendly and drinking water is served for free. 400 baht.
Greyhound Cafe, 2F, Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS
Phrom Phong), +66-2-255-6964(-5), . 10AM-10PM daily. An
extremely modern restaurant of concrete and brushed steel,
offering a fusionesque menu of food ranging from authen-
tic Thai to Italian pasta to Elvis burgers. Mains are around
300 baht, although the lunch sets are cheaper than that. 300
baht.
Minibar Royale, Citadines Bldg, 37/7 Sukhumvit Soi 23 (BTS
Thong Lo), +66-2-261-5533, . Su-Th 11AM-midnight, F-Sa
11AM-1AM. If you're looking for a hip New York or Paris-style
brasserie, this is definitely the place. The French decor is very
classy done, and service is okay. On the menu are a mix of
French and American comfort food. Drink it down with one
of their cocktails and you'll have a fun night out. Also a trip
for breakfast. Prices are at the upper mid-range end though.
450 baht.
Limoncello ( ), 17 Sukhumvit Soi 11 on Tuesdays and Cheap Charley Brown's night on Sundays
(BTS Nana), +66-2-651-0707. noon-2PM, 6PM-midnight
daily. A bright, airy pizzeria; the best Italian-style pizza in
Bangkok, very thin and crispy with a great range of toppings.
Amazing desserts too (try the profiteroles!). Avoid the house
wine, though; as is usual in Thailand, wine is very pricey, at
1300 baht it is not worth it. 250-450 baht.
Stable Lodge, 39 Sukhumvit Soi 8 (BTS Nana),
+66-2-653-0017(-9), . 7AM-midnight daily. Unlike other
places, this restaurant (and hotel) focuses on traditional
Danish and Scandinavian food, though some Thai and inter-
national cuisine is available. There's a Scandinavian all-you-
can-eat lunch buffet with open sandwich selection on Satur-
days and Sundays between noon and 3PM. Every evening
from 6PM is an all-you-can-eat international barbecue buf-
fet. Aside from these discounts offers, a-la-carte is over-
priced and not worth it. The hotel is a well-known meeting
spot among Scandinavians with a nice family atmosphere. It
costs about 1800 baht for a clean and quiet room with swim-
ming pool. 300 baht.
Tapas Cafe, 1/25 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (BTS Nana, less than five-
minutes walk down Soi 11), +66-2-651-2947, . 11AM-late.
Good Spanish food in a nice atmosphere and area. The place
is a little off-shot of Soi 11 (look for the signs at the entrance
on the left, next door to Charley Browns Mexican Restau-
rant). It is quite a popular place, good Spanish food, and
Sukhumvit Eat
most importantly, great Sangria. Surprisingly owned and
managed by an Englishman. 400 baht.
Thyme Bistro & Martini Bar, 1F, Kingston Suites Bldg,
39/3-7 Sukhumvit Soi 15 (BTS Asok), +66-2-120-8288, .
6:30AM-11PM daily. A brand new restaurant located in
Kingston Suites Bangkok, its dishes could be described as
"fusion", as it offers local, international and some popular
Mediterranean dishes. The asparagus rolls are a must-have
and if you are there in the evening, have one of their Marti-
nis. 300-400 baht.
American and Tex-Mex
Bourbon Street Bar & Restaurant, 29/4-6 Sukhumvit Soi
22 (BTS Phrom Phong, at Washington Square), +66
2-259-0328(-9), . 7AM-1AM daily. This places serves some
surprisingly authentic Cajun food. Premium prices are
charged for dinner but the two or three-course lunches at
230-290 baht are a good value. On Tuesday evenings they
have a Mexican buffet starting at 6PM which is somewhat
cheaper than regular prices. 230-690 baht.
Charley Brown's Mexicana, 1/23 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (BTS Nana,
walk up Soi 11 and take a left at the first tailor shop into
the small side-street and around the corner you will see it),
+66-2-651-2215, . M 5PM-midnight, Tu-Su 11:30AM-mid-
night. Certainly the oldest Mexican restaurant in Bangkok
and probably one of the best. They have special offers on
most days, including half priced margaritas and sangrias
(they match the cheap prices at Cheap Charlies who is closed
that night). A tip are the 150-baht lunch sets, which is a steal.
Free WiFi is available. 400-500 baht.
Duke's, 5F, Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Phrom
Phong), +66-8-7002-9214, . 10AM-10PM daily. Popular
place for American food like "Falling Off The Bone" ribs, fresh
crisp salads, gourmet burgers and home baked pizzas with
excellent value for money. 200-475 baht.
Great American Rib Company, 32 Sukhumvit Soi 36 (BTS
Thong Lo, it is quite a hike from the main road into Soi 36),
+66-2-661-3801, . 11AM-11PM daily. Great American South-
ern-style ribs, steaks and seafood. Probably the most au-
thentic ribs in town, smoked on low heat for 5 hours. Some
menus are moderately priced, but others are very pricey (es-
pecially the steaks that don't come for less than 600 baht).
195-800 baht.
Larry's Dive, 8 Sukhumvit Soi 22 (BTS Phrom Phong),
+66-2-663-4563, . 10AM-1AM daily. Best described as a
sports bar in Hawaiian beach theme, although American,
Mexican and grill dishes are served as well. They offer
gourmet burgers, steaks and barbecue pork ribs. At Fridays
they have all-you-can-eat ribs for 399 baht. It also serves an
all-day breakfast. If you really want to get a hangover the
next day, try their beer challenge: if you drink three pitchers
of beer within one hour, the beer will be free and you'll get
43
 Districts
a free t-shirt. Also, your name will be written on the "wall of
fame". Don't wear your best shoes though, as they might fill
up with sand. Free WiFi. 400 baht.
Ronny's New York Pizza, Sukhumvit Soi 4 (BTS Nana),
+66-2-255-2626, . 1PM-3AM daily. Self-proclaimed as the
first New York-style pizza place in Bangkok (thin crust, like
in Europe, contrary to the pan pizza of the rest of the Unit-
ed States). It's open till late, so that's good, but generally the
place is not special by any means. The staff is nice, but the
quality of the pizzas leave to be desired. Bring your laptop
for free WiFi. 300-450 baht.
Senor Pico's, 1F, Rembrandt Hotel, 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 (BTS
Asok or MRT Sukhumvit), +66-2-261-7100, . 5PM-1AM dai-
ly. One of Bangkok's few Mexican restaurants. It is on the ex-
pensive side, but every day of the week (except Mondays)
there is a live Latin American band playing. 300-500 baht.
Sunrise Tacos ( ), 236/3-4 (Soi 4) are packed full of go-go bars much like those in Patpong.
Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Asok), +66-2-229-4851, . Open 24
hours. Mexican grill with traditional favorites like nachos,
tacos, burritos, enchiladas, fajitas and satisfying salads. The
meals are fresh and they have 24 hours delivery available. It
is a popular expat place. They have another branch in Em-
porium. 100-250 baht.
Splurge
There is a countless variety of upscale restaurants in
Sukhumvit. The trendiest and most upscale fusion restaurant
of the moment is the Bed Supperclub, which is listed in the
Drink section as it is also one of the most popular clubs.
Drink
The Sukhumvit area contains more watering holes than can
easily be counted, and touts are not as big of a problem here
as in Patpong. However, the scene is oriented towards West-
ern ex-pats and wealthy high-society Thais, for more of a local
ambiance (and local prices) head a bit north to Ratchadaphisek
instead.
Sukhumvit Drink
Go-go bars
Soi Cowboy
Soi Cowboy (off Asoke Road) and Nana Entertainment Plaza
Soi 33 is packed with hostess bars, which are more upscale than
the Soi Cowboy and Nana Plaza bars and do not feature go-go
dancing. Since the establishments are jammed side by side on
the streets (or along the interior courtyard, in Nana Plaza), it's
easy to go go-go bar hopping: they all come in different sizes,
music, lighting, and dancer physiques. You'll probably find one
to fit your preferences.
While the places all operate with more or less the same con-
cept, the following four have been around for a while and are
unlikely to rip you off:
Angel Witch, 2F, Nana Entertainment Plaza, Sukhumvit Soi
4 (BTS Nana). 7PM-2AM daily. A single stage, with choreo-
graphed shows most evening at 10PM until midnight. Not
as heavily packed outside of showtimes, nor the best place
for a single man on the hunt, but an excellent "gentler" in-
troduction for couples and those merely curious to see the
sights. Beer 125 baht.
Long Gun (Lucky Star), Soi Cowboy (BTS Asok). 7PM-2AM
daily. Not the largest or flashiest bar indeed, it has seen
better days but is reputed to be the oldest bar in the Soi
and by extension the oldest go-go bar outside of Patpong.
It's got a somewhat less frenetic atmosphere than some of
the bigger bars, and may be worth a visit as well as a piece
of (possibly apocryphal) history. Beer 120 baht.
Rainbow 4, 2F, Nana Entertainment Plaza, Sukhumvit Soi 4
(BTS Nana). 7PM-2AM daily. Squeezes two stages into a small
space, and is always packed with girls and punters. Beer 125
baht.
Suzie Wong, Soi Cowboy (BTS Asok). 7PM-2AM daily. Small
and unprepossessing at first sight, the only hint of a Chinese
theme are the cheongsams of the waitresses, but this go go
and its sister operation Sheba's across the street are famed
for putting on some of the best shows in Bangkok. Beer 130
baht.
44
 Districts
Sports bars
Looking for a place to watch your favorite sport on the big
screen? Sukhumvit from Soi 2 to 33 offers plenty of choices.
The stereotypic bars here are British pubs with rugby on, sell-
ing lots of beer and pub grub (be it grill menus or other simple
snacks). The workers are young Thai hostesses in tight outfits
who serve Western ex-pats that generally are older than 40.
The Australian (), 38
Sukhumvit Soi 11 (BTS Nana, then 500 meters down the Soi
on the left), +66-2-651-0800, . 9AM-1AM daily. Good food;
excellent but expensive wine, and the most attractive wait-
resses in Bangkok. But you have to tolerate Aussie Rules foot-
ball on the TVs!
Bradmans Sports Bistro (Downunder Bistro), 4/6 Sukhumvit
Soi 23 (BTS Asok or MRT Sukhumvit, it is on the right side just
past the Jasmine Building), +66-8-6807-1384, . 10AM-2AM
daily. An Australian bar and bistro with many TVs every-
where for watching different kind of sports. There are sever-
al sound rooms, so customers can watch different sports at
different parts of the bar. The owner is actively involved in
the business, and sometimes asks his customers which sport
should be on.
Bully's ( ), Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Nana, be-
tween Soi 2 and 4, next to the JW Marriot Hotel),
+66-2-656-4609, . 2PM-midnight. A typical Sukhumvit-style
bar with drinks, food, pool table and football screens. Beer
is averagely priced and always cold, but a simple bottle of
water is expensive at 80 baht. The owner can be rude, and
drunk, too. But at least they have free internet and you can
read the newspaper.
Gulliver's Traveler's Tavern, 6/1 Sukhumvit Soi 5 (BTS Nana,
approximately 50 meters down from the main road on Soi
5), +66-2-655-5340(-42), . noon-1AM daily. A large, west-
ern sports bar with English-speaking staff serving Western
and Thai food and drinks. There are large flat screen TVs
all around, so a variety of sports are shown simultaneously
(baseball, soccer, rugby, golf, etc). Plenty of pool tables are
in the rear, with female Thai players ready to open up a can
of "whoop-ass" on you.
The Londoner, Basement B, 591 UBC II Bldg, 104 Sukhumvit
Soi 33 (BTS Phrom Phong, at the corner of the main road and
Soi 33), +66-2-261-0238(-9), . 11AM-1AM daily. Remark-
able about this bar is that it is Thailand's only pub that brews
its own beer. It has a good atmosphere that's nice for watch-
ing sports, and is targeted at ex-pats and tourists alike. Hap-
py hour every day at 4PM-7PM and 11PM-1AM (so most of
the day actually). "Quiz night" every Tuesday night at 8PM.
Free WiFi.
The Office, Sukhumvit Soi 33 (BTS Phrom Phong, walk in-
to Soi 33 and take the second street to the right),
+66-2-662-1936, . M-Th 3:30-late, F-Sa noon-late, Su closed.
Another bar on Sukhumvit with beer, music, live sports, pool
Sukhumvit Drink
tables, hostesses and grill menus. Heineken is on draught for
75 baht each.
The Robin Hood, P.B Building, 597-597/1-3 Sukhumvit Soi
33/1 (BTS Phrom Phong, opposite Emporium shopping
mall), +66-2-662-3390, . 9AM-midnight daily. English pub
with pub grub and daily happy hour specials. Australian and
British sports on large flat screen TVs. Popular with ex-pats.
The Sport Corner, 394/2 Sukhumvit Soi 20 (BTS Phrom
Phong, at the corner of Soi 20 just behind the 7-11),
+66-8-708-45490, . 2PM-1AM daily. The Sport Corner offers
numerous big flat-screen TVs, both indoors and outdoors,
showing sports from around the world. Friendly, hassle-free
hostesses, along with affordable drinks and Thai and West-
ern food, make it a fun place to cheer your favorite team on.
Witch's Tavern, 306/1 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (between Soi 8 and
10; if you come from the main road, it is on your right-hand
side), +66-2-391-9791. 11AM-1AM daily. This is Bangkok's
original English pub, kind of an institution in the Thong Lo
area. It has live music every night. Wednesday 5PM-9PM is
"ladies night", which means free drinks for the girls. Many
secretaries from the surrounding office buildings seem to
come over at that night. There are at least five English/Irish
brews on tap, and you can order pizza.
Beer gardens
In the winter time ("beer garden season"), popular beer gar-
dens pop up in front of CentralWorld Plaza and Suan Lum Night
Bazaar, serving up cold beer and live performances. Sukhumvit
has a few places that are open year round:
Beer Garden Soi 7, 15 Sukhumvit Soi 7 (BTS Nana),
+66-255-7858. 10AM-2AM daily. For men only! It is a pick-
up joint where men easily get numerous young and not so
young ladies for a night, particularly at weekends. It is pop-
ular as there is no "barfine" here. It can also be a nice place
to relax with moderate Western music, if you tell the ladies
to go away. They serve German and other beers, including
wheat beer (Franziskaner). You can eat European food at the
tables or just have a drink at the bar.
Cheap Charlie's, Sukhumvit Soi 11 (BTS Nana),
+66-2-253-4648. 4:30PM-1AM daily. An outdoor beer bar,
not a garden, that looks like it grew out of the side of the
building. Pull up a stool anywhere on the Soi and enjoy a
cold one. It's a good place to start the night as the beer starts
at 60 baht, a lot cheaper than elsewhere in the area. Seems
to mainly attract the young expat crowd.
Old German Beerhouse, Grand President Tower III, 11
Sukhumvit Soi 11 (BTS Nana), +66-2-651-3838, . 8AM-1AM
daily. The only place that looks like a German Brauhaus. The
beers served are Warsteiner and Erdinger, but they also have
the Frankfurter Apfelwein (a sort of German cider). Along
45
 Districts
with the beer go their simple Thai or European dishes for
120-200 baht. Free WiFi is also available.
Singha Beer Park (Singha Beer House), Asoke Rd (BTS Asok
or MRT Sukhumvit, 600 meters north from the main road),
+66-2-644-4146. M-F 5PM-2AM, Sa-Su 4PM-2AM. This is
a modern open-air beer garden. If you choose to sit inside,
you'll see its flashy interior and its laid-back couches on
which you can enjoy a cold beer. They also have the usual
Thai dishes on offer.
Wine bars
With a growing interest in foreign as well as local wines, there is
a growing number of wine bars in Bangkok and many of these
are in the Sukhumvit area. Most of these are trendy establish-
ments with selections of exclusive French, Italian, Spanish and
other international wines.
Lake House, 18 Soi Phrom Mit, Sukhumvit Soi 39 (BTS Phrom
Phong, walk through Soi 39, then take a right into Soi Phrom
Mit and it is at the right-hand side after 500 meters),
+66-2-662-6349, . 5PM-midnight daily. An old house, that
was once home to famous writers and artists, has now been
turned into a wine bar and tapas restaurant. The house sits
on a large, turtle-filled pond and is surrounded by a tropical
garden. Seating is available in the house, on lake-side gaze-
bos or in the garden. Note: Lake House is closed for the time
being due to a recent storm, but will be reopened in Novem-
ber 2010.
Opera Riserva, 53/4 Sukhumvit Soi 39 (BTS Phrom Phong,
walk up into Soi 39 and take a left into Soi Phrom Chit; it is op-
posite Bio House and next to L'Opera), +66-2-258-5606, .
5:30PM-midnight daily. Opera Riserva is located in con-
junction with L'Opera Italian restaurant, fairly deep down
Sukhumvit Soi 39. It can be a bit difficult to find for the first
time visitor, however those who do are rewarded with a
large selection of wine. They range from the affordable to
the very exclusive of mainly Italian and French wines, and
also offer a selection from other countries. The Opera Riser-
va wine bar is set on two levels with a dozen or so tables
and a large bar on ground floor, and on the second floor
a more relaxed setting with several groups of leather sofas
and some private rooms - one with a separate entrance for
those who prefer to come and go unnoticed. Clientle is
equally local and foreign, and local stars are often spotted
here. (1344'12.62N,10034'16.13E)
Nightclubs
If it wasn't for the superhip nightclubs Bed Supperclub and
Q Bar, Soi 11 would be quite an ordinary soi. But now it is
known as Bangkok's clubbing soi, and in part contributes to
Sukhumvit's image as the most cosmopolitan area of the city.
An alternative is Soi 23, also home to some of the trendiest
clubs in town. These venues are all about seeing and being
seen, popular among the well-to-do Thai and expat crowd. Soi
Sukhumvit Sleep
55 (Thong Lo) and Soi 63 (Ekkamai) also have their fair share of
places to spend the night, but these are somewhat more mod-
est and have more in common with traditional bars.
Sleep
Property values in Sukhumvit are among the highest in
Bangkok, and accommodation is priced to match. There are
plenty of four and five-star hotels that cater to those with a lot
of money (including business travelers). Guest houses la Khao
San Road are hard to find, and will set you back at least twice
as much.
Another market is the sex industry. Some hotels nearby Nana
Entertainment Plaza and Soi Cowboy offer "short time" stays.
This short term option is cheaper, but can only be used for a
couple of hours. It is meant for sex tourists and locals who want
to spend a couple of hours with their "date". These hotels gen-
erally are quite cheap, but they can feel seedy and are not rec-
ommended for overnight stays.
Many other hotels explicitly hang up signs banning sex
tourists; many of these don't allow you to bring in any Thai la-
dy (which can lead to an awkward situation if you just want to
bring a friend or your Thai girlfriend), while others will allow
them only if they are present with an ID card at the time of ini-
tial registration.
Budget
Atlanta Hotel, 78 Sukhumvit Soi 2 (BTS Phloen Chit),
+66-2-252-1650, . A dream from 1930s Los Angeles that ap-
peared in Bangkok in the 1950s, The Atlanta never quite los-
es the quality of a mirage, but the beds are solid enough.
The rooms aren't in great condition, it's a long walk up to
the third and fourth floors, and the cleaning staff have sticky
fingers. But every time you walk into the grand lobby or
take a dip in the overgrown jungle pool out back (that's
open 24 hours), you'll be glad you're there. And if you've
spent any time on Sukhumvit, you'll appreciate the "no sex
tourists" sign out front. Rooms come with air-conditioning;
other amenities include two computers with internet (and
free WiFi if you've brought your own), a helpful travel desk,
a decent restaurant and plenty of room for left-luggage. 950
baht.
HI-Sukhumvit (YHA Sukhumvit), 23 Sukhumvit Soi 38 (BTS
Thong Lo), +66-2-391-9338(-9), . A clean hostel with a nice
chill-out area and a friendly staff. You can choose to sleep
in a dorm or in a private room. All rooms come with air-con-
ditioning, and breakfast is included in the price. 900-1100
baht, dorm 350 baht per person.
Soi 1 Guesthouse, 220/7 Sukhumvit Soi 1 (BTS Phloen Chit),
+66-2-655-0604, . This is actually one of the best backpack-
er hostels of the Sukhumvit area. There are 4-bed and 8-bed
mixed and female-only dorm rooms, as well as 3 or 4-bed
46
 Districts Sukhumvit Sleep

private rooms (with shared bathrooms). All the rooms are are Mid-range
fully air-conditioned. The dorms have a very social atmos-
phere, so this is not just a place to sleep, but to actively meet
and hang out with other travelers (and the owner). Don't ex-
pect to actually catch some sleep here, people will turn on
the light and ask you to come along with them to party. If
that's not for you, then it's a good idea to take another hotel.
There is a 24-hour reception, common room, bar, pool table,
internet (1 baht/min). The WiFi, lockers and long term stor-
age are free of charge. 400 baht per person.

Som's Guesthouse, 295/13-14 Sukhumvit Soi 22 (BTS Phrom

Phong, walk down soi 22 and take a left into the side-street
after the Imperal Queen's Park), +66-2-259-1043, . This is a
basic guest house with nine rooms that have cable TV, fridge
and hot shower. Six of them have air-conditioning, while the
other three only have a fan. Furniture looks shabby and old,
but it suffices if you're on budget. 800-900 baht.

Star Inn Hotel, 131/40-41 Sukhumvit Soi 7/1 (BTS Nana,

on the right side if coming from the main road),
+66-2-651-0761, . A "short-time" or "long time" hotel with a
friendly staff. Rooms are simple, but equipped with a dvd
player, air-conditioning, double to king-size bed and mi-
ni-fridge. There is a well-equipped bar in the lobby and the
restaurant offers barbecue dinners every night with good
chefs. Lots of drunk foreigners get dragged in and out by
their Thai "date" here all-day. The bar next door has live mu-
sic until about 4AM, which can make sleeping a challenge.
825-1175 baht.
Taxis on Sukhumvit Road
Star Light Hotel (27 Hotel), 81 Sukhumvit Soi 22 (BTS Phrom
There is plenty of good quality, mid-range accommodation on
Phong, walk into Soi 22 and take a left into Soi Som
Sukhumvit. It is possible to book on a weekly basis and get a
Soong, the soi that comes right after Washington Square),
large discount at many places.
+66-2-258-2272. This is an old non-frills Thai-Chinese hotel
near Washington Square. As is usual, there are "short time" Ambassador Hotel, 171 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (BTS Nana),
and overnight options. Rooms for both these types have air- +66-2-254-0444, . The hotel is very big with 750 rooms.
conditioning. Don't expect anything more than just a cheap Rooms in the tower wing (US$88) has a better view, but the
room. 350-500 baht. rooms in the main wing are cheaper (US$70). Rooms look a
bit worn, but it seems renovation is in progress. No in-room
Suk 11 Hostel, 1/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (BTS Nana, walk up soi
safe, but everyting else was fine. The pool on the roof is es-
11 and take a left right after the 7-11), +66-2-253-5927, .
pecially nice. US$70-190.
This is one of the most unique backpacker guest houses in
Bangkok. Entering it is like entering another world; the inte- The Davis, 88 Sukhumvit Soi 24 (MRT Queen Sirikit Nation-
rior looks like a village of traditional wooden houses full of al Convention Center), +66-2-260-8000, . Run by massage
ornaments and secret passageways. For the money, you get parlour magnate-cum-politician Chuwit Kamolsivit, this is
a clean and comfortable room. Of course they are somewhat one of the best deals in Bangkok; a new fully equipped lux-
small, but it's on budget, right? Beside the private rooms, ury boutique hotel at lower splurge prices (it will be as low
in high season you can also stay in a five-bed dorm room. as 1400 baht per night for a month's stay). Each room is fur-
All the rooms have air-conditioning and you can choose nished differently yet tastefully. The primary negative is the
whether you want a shared or public bathroom. One rather location very deep down Soi 24, quite a hike (15-20 min)
important nitpick is the staff they are absolutely crazy from Sukhumvit itself. 2800-4100 baht.
when it comes to enforcing policy, which is a big downer
on an otherwise unique experience. 700-900 baht, dorm 300 Ever Rich Inn (Everich Inn), 113 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Nana, be-
baht per person. tween Soi 5 and 7 across the road from the Landmark Hotel),
+66-2-253-4250, . A nice, small, quiet and clean hotel on-
ly metres from the Nana BTS station escalator. The best and
largest rooms are at either end of the building (either facing

47
 Districts
Sukhumvit or facing north) as these have windows. Rooms
without a window are 200 baht cheaper. 1200-1600 baht.
Kingston Suites, 39/3-7 Sukhumvit Soi 15 (BTS Asok),
+66-2-120-8288, . Classic looking rooms and very spacious
with all the mod-cons expected. As it is off the main road, it
makes for a quiet stay. There's limited choice on breakfast,
but the buffet breakfast is still fine. Try a Martini while there,
a hotel specialty. 1600-2000 baht.
Legacy Express, 29 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Phloen Chit, at the
corner of the main road and Soi 1), +66-2-655-7474, .
This luxury hotel has 63 big rooms with jazzy colours, an
LCD TV and a bathroom. There is a 7-Eleven on the ground
floor as well as a small restaurant. "Short stay" also available.
1300-2300 baht.
Livingstone's, Sukhumvit Soi 33 (BTS Phrom Phong, walk in-
to Soi 33 and after 5 minutes the hotel is at the left-hand
side), +66-2-261-2800, . This boutique lodge on Soi 33 is
particularly good for the single male. It is close to the go-gos
and hostess bars. It is very quiet and has a magnificent se-
cluded pool. 1800-3200 baht.
Majestic Suites, 110-110/1 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Nana, at the
corner with Soi 4), +66-2-656-8220, . This hotel is direct-
ly around the corner from Nana Entertainment Plaza and
close to the BTS station. The rooms are modern and well-
maintained, but some people may find the "single studio"
rooms for 1350 baht small. There is ample space for 100 baht
more in the "single superior" rooms. Free internet. Not to be
confused with the newer, larger and pricier Majestic Grande
nearby on Soi 2, although they share ownership and guests
at the Suites can get a pass to use the pool and health club
at the Grande. 1350-2100 baht.
Nana Hotel, 21/4 Sukhumvit Soi 4 (BTS Nana, turn in-
to a small alley off Soi 4, across from the 7-11),
+66-2-255-2525, . The rooms are quiet, clean, pleasantly dec-
orated, and serviced daily. There's a decent bathroom with
hot water, refrigerator, in-room safe and TV. It is a decent
lower-end option, if you are not bothered by the nearby
hotspots for sex tourism, and staying in a hotel that also of-
fers an hourly rate. Referred to as "The Mothership" in punter
circles. 1490-2390 baht.
On8 Sukhumvit ( ), 160/1-162 minutes. 1000-1200 baht.
Sukhumvit Soi 8 (BTS Nana), +66 2 254 8866, . A chic hotel
in a convenient location near Nana station. Rooms are styl-
ish, modern and clean, though are a bit small. The staff is re-
ally friendly, almost like a small family. The On8 cafe serves
a decent breakfast and the menu (though small) is varied.
Plenty to keep you busy around the hotel with a night mar-
ket, spas, local restaurants and pubs. Free internet is includ-
ed in the price. 1800-2200 baht.
Royal Asia Lodge, 91 Sukhumvit Soi 8 (BTS Nana),
+66-2-251-5514, . This is quite a simple hotel that just gets
the job done for a lower mid-range price. Furniture looks
Sukhumvit Sleep
old, the faucet needs to be fixed and the swimming pool is
small. As it is about 800 meters from the main road, it is qui-
eter and cheaper than other hotels. To make up for the dis-
tance, there is a complimentary tuk-tuk service that runs to
Sukhumvit Road 24 hours a day. 1100 baht.
Royal Ivory, 73 Sukhumvit Soi 4 (BTS Nana),
+66-2-656-7517, . This hotel is mid-way along Soi 4, but still
a ten to fifteen-minute walk from the main road. If you're
lazy to walk, there is the free shuttle service. The rooms are
surprisingly spacious and quiet, which given its location is a
plus, but they look a little run down. Amenities include air-
conditioning and cable TV (with satellite TV channels). The
pool is small, but fine for a quick dip. The restaurant has a
large TV screen, a pool table and serves good local food. Ob-
viously its near the sleazy Nana Entertainment Plaza, so there
are lots of middle-aged Western men with bar girls around.
1300-1800 baht.
Salil Hotel Sukhumvit Soi 8, 50, 50/1 Sukhumvit Soi 8 (BTS
Nana), +66-2-253-2474(-7), . This is a small and stylish bou-
tique hotel in the Nana area of Sukhumvit. It has all the mod-
ern room facilities you'd expect, including TV, air-condition-
ing and a water boiler (for noodles or tea). There's no lift,
so good luck carrying your luggage upstairs. Breakfast is in-
cluded. 1690-2500 baht.
Salil Hotel Thonglor Soi 1, 44/14-17 Sukhumvit Soi 53 (BTS
Thong Lo, walk up Soi 53, then take a right into Soi Thong Lo
1 and then a left into a small street), +66-2-662-5480(-3), .
This boutique hotel in the Thong Lo area has 40 luxurious
rooms that are decorated in color-vintage style. Amenities
include air-conditioning, a fridge, free WiFi, LCD TV, DVD
player, hairdryer, mini bar and safe. It is close to Thong Lo's
BTS station and the party areas of Soi 55 and 63. Price in-
cludes breakfast. 1690-2190 baht.
Sawasdee Sukhumvit Inn, 123 Sukhumvit Soi 57 (BTS Thong
Lo), +66-2-714-0703, . Sawasdee has many different dis-
count offers, it's quite a trouble to figure it out, but you might
save a few bucks. It is a basic no-frills hotel on the lower end
of the mid-range price category. It has 44 decent rooms with
air-conditioning, a large bed and windows. They offer good
service and the atmosphere overall is relaxed. The coin-op-
erated internet terminals in the lobby cost 10 baht for 15
Swiss Park Hotel ( ), 155/23 Sukhumvit Soi
11 (BTS Nana, turn right just after the Grand Business Inn),
+66-2-254-0228(-9), . This is a well-managed hotel with clean
and comfortable rooms. Rooms numbered up to 6 on each
floor are more desirable as they have a view, while the others
look out onto a building site that seems to have ground to a
halt. Free WiFi in the lobby. 1400-2800 baht.
FuramaXclusive Sukhumvit (formerly Unico Grande
Sukhumvit), 27 Sukhumvit Soi 1 (BTS Phloen Chit),
+66-2-655-3993, . This is a luxury boutique-style hotel close
to both Ploenchit Road and Nana. It's amazing how much
48
 Districts Sukhumvit Contact

luxury you get for the mid-range price tag. The rooms are
very clean, as are the bathrooms. There are some nice ameni-
ties, including a fridge, air-conditioning and even an umbrel-
la in the room. Breakfast is good. The staff is always grateful
to help. There is no pool, but there are two jazucci tubs. One
of the best hotels in the Nana area, and often used by for-
eigners who need to rest after having visited Bumrungrad
Hospital. 2200-4000 baht.
King Park Avenue Hotel, 9/999 Moo 1, Srinakarin Rd (very
far off from Sukhumvit Road, deep inside On Nut Road,
close to King Rama IX Park. Bus 553 stops here),
+66-2-748-1035(-49), . The visitors use this hotel as it is about
a 15-20 minute drive from the airport. There are some shop-
ping malls and a large park nearby, but for the rest, its very
far off from Sukhumvit proper. It has recently been remod-
eled, which is a good thing. Rooms are good, beds are comfy,
breakfast is nice, and there's a friendly staff. 2300-4500 baht.
Villa Be your Guest, 24 Sukhunvit Soi 53 (BTS Thong Lo, ex-
it 1, turn right in Soi 53), +66-8-1637-9047, . Because it
has only three rooms, the staff in this boutique hotel really
gets along on a personal level with their customers. It is in
a serene environment close to the busy Thong Lo neighbor-
hood. 1,500-2,500 baht.
Woraburi Sukhumvit, 128/1 Sukhumvit Soi 4 (BTS Nana),
+66-2-656-7029, . This is a decent and clean lower-end hotel
with a swimming pool. It is at the end of the soi, but that's
actually a good thing as it's quieter than other hotels in the
area. If you order more night at once, they give you a dis-
count. Also, if you order from Booking.com, you can save 200
baht per night compared to booking from the hotel's own
website. 1050-2500 baht.
pensive) medical tourism hospital in Southeast Asia. It fea-
tures 554 beds, 33 specialty centers and more than 1000
doctors in many different disciplines. The hospital has over
1.2 million patients annually, of which about 430,000 are
from foreign countries. Many of them come here for surgery
procedures that are cheaper at Bumrungrad than in their
home country. Multiple languages spoken.
Samitivej Hospital, 133 Sukhumvit Soi 49 (BTS Phrom
Phong), +66-2-711-8000, . Another hospital where for-
eigners are welcome, this one is specialized in medical
health check programs. The cheapest check-up program
starts at 6500 baht, but more expensive check-ups go for
6500 and 10,000 baht.
Get out
If you came here for Soi Cowboy and Nana Entertainment
Plaza, Soi Patpong in Silom offers more of the same. If you
just came out of Bed Supperclub and want to continue your
night the superhip way, Silom is also the way to go.
Unlike most foreign travellers, the locals tend to go out in
Ratchadaphisek. You might want to check out Royal City Av-
enue (often abbreviated as RCA), an entertainment paradise
with bars, clubs and theaters, or one of Ratchada's popular
'sois'.
Quite similar to Sukhumvit and right next to it is Siam
Square, Bangkok's hippest shopping and entertainment dis-
trict. It is only a 10-minutes Skytrain ride.

Splurge
Several of Bangkok's luxury hotels are concentrated on and
near Sukhumvit. To splurge in Bangkok is cheaper than you ini-
tially think. Your options include:

Contact
Sukhumvit is packed with Internet cafes, pubs and bars offer-
ing free WiFi and computer access at rates as low as 0.5 baht/
minute. Trying to print something will probably shed a whole
new light on your experience. Be wary of key loggers which are
reputedly an epidemic at Thai internet cafes. There have also
been cases where memory cards get infected with a virus when
plugged into an internet cafe computer.

Cope
Bunrungrad Hospital, 33 Sukhumvit Soi 3 (BTS Nana),
+66-2-667-1000, . Probably the best-regarded (and most ex-

49
 Districts
SILOM
Understand
In the 19th century, daily life in Bangkok mostly took place on
and around the canals. Silom was a rural farmland with rice
fields, orchards and windmills criss-crossed by canals. During
this era, most urban life happened on the riverside, which was
a busy trading quarter welcoming European merchant ships
and envoys. This area, known as Bang Rak, still has a kind of
European atmosphere with many exclusive colonial-style ho-
tels and old abandoned warehouses. Silom (windmills in Thai)
has changed immensely with the coming of modern times.
Charoen Krung Road (New Road) was the first paved road of
Bangkok, built in 1861 during the reign of King Mongkut (Rama
IV) at the request of foreign consuls who wanted to ride their
horses and carriages. Over time, most of the canals have disap-
peared and turned into roads.
Silom as seen from Lumphini Park
With the rise of Thailand as a newly industrializing economy,
Silom turned into Thailand's major financial center filled with
banking institutions, corporate high-rises and condominiums.
Many banks, insurance companies, audit and law firms have
congregated along Sathorn () as well. The district's im-
portance as a business center has been acknowledged by the
recent construction of the Skytrain and the metro line right
through the district. Their construction has not helped much
as traffic congestion continues to be a serious problem in the
area. At day, there actually is not that much to do here, ex-
cept when white-collar workers flock onto the streets for lunch.
The fusion of peoples here make this a great place for peo-
ple-watching. Cigar-smoking Thai business men walk through
masses of well-suited secretaries, office workers and Western
expatriates. Recently, many Indians and Muslims took resi-
dence around the intersection with Charoen Krung Road.
At night, Silom turns into the place to be. It is a vibrant neigh-
borhood that is actually a little hard to describe in the sense
that it has become one of Bangkok's most cosmopolitan streets
as well as one of the sleaziest. Soi Patpong is the hedonistic
Silom Understand
playground all of Bangkok is generally stereotyped for, but it
actually consists of just two small sois. These so-called "go-go
bars" might as well be called "takeaway brothels", but a trip
to Bangkok is not complete without a visit to this surreal envi-
ronment. But if you fancy something more upclass and tamer,
Silom is also the place to be. Some of the expensive hotels in
the area cater to rich visitors that like to talk business over a
glass of wine. Having a cocktail at the top of the Banyan Tree
Building or the State Tower gives some of the best views of
Southeast Asia.
Orientation is fairly easy as most of the magic happens at Silom
Road, especially where it intersects with Rama IV Road. Head-
ing west, it becomes kind of sleepy around the intersection
with Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra Road. The area starts to live
up again when you get closer to the river in the area known as
Bang Rak. Parallel of Silom Road lies Sathorn Road to the south
and Surawong Road to the north.
Get in
Map of Silom
By public transit
Skytrain
Silom Road and Sathorn Road can handily be reached using the
BTS Skytrain's Silom Line. BTS station Sala Daeng is right in the
middle of the action, close to pretty much all party venues. At
the other side is Saphan Taksin station, which is close to Bang
Rak's riverside hotels. Surasak and Chong Nonsi fill up the area
in between.
There is a direct connection with Siam Square, which takes
about five minutes, but if you're coming from another district,
traveling will be more complex. From Sukhumvit, you'll need
to take the Skytrain to Siam station and transfer onto the Silom
Line. The same goes if you're coming from Phahonyothin.
Metro
The MRT metro system is a good way to reach Silom from
Yaowarat and Phahurat, Sukhumvit and Ratchadaphisek. The
central stop is MRT station Si Lom, that lies at the entrance of
Lumphini Park. It can be used as an interchange station with
Sala Daeng BTS station. Other stops include Lumphini, Sam
50
 Districts Silom See

Yan and Hua Lamphong. The metro ride from Sukhumvit or tors, unless you're going to the Tawandang Microbrewery or a
Hualamphong Train Station takes about five minutes, while the distant riverside hotel.
ride from Ratchadaphisek takes about ten to fifteen minutes.
Trains leave every five to ten minutes for a fare of about 16 to
41 baht.
By train
Hualamphong Train Station, while technically right over the
By boat edge in Yaowarat and Phahurat, is very easy to reach from else-
where in the district. Just take the metro to Hua Lamphong sta-
If you're coming from Rattanakosin, Khao San Road or some ar- tion and the station will be right in front of you. From there,
eas of Yaowarat and Phahurat, the fastest way to reach Silom is getting a train is done in no time, and before you know it, you'll
by Chao Phraya Express Boat. A single trip from Chang pier in be heading for Ayutthaya or Chiang Mai.
Rattanakosin to Sathorn (Taksin) takes about 25 minutes and
costs around 18 baht. From here, you can transfer onto the
Skytrain's Silom Line and get to many destinations in Silom.
See
The river boat is the best way to get to and around the Bang Rak
area. Si Phraya in the north of Bang Rak and Sathorn (Taksin)
in the south are served by fast yellow flag boats. Oriental pier
is the most centrally located, but is only served by orange-flag
and no-flag lines. Wat Muang Khae is slightly north of Oriental,
but is kind of a sleepy pier only served by no-flag lines.

If you happen to be in Thonburi (the area around Khlong San),

you can easily take a ferry across the river. There are ferries from
Klongsan to Si Phraya, from Wat Suwan to Oriental and from
Sathorn (Taksin) across the river to the pier of the same name.
Every 15 minutes a ferry leaves and won't cost you more than
a mere 3 baht.

By bus
Due to heavy congestion and the complexity of the bus system,
getting to Silom by bus can only be advised if you have a lot
of time or are on a stringent budget. Being a part of Bangkok's
downtown, many lines run through Silom, but finding the Map of Central Silom

right one is a challenge. Ordinary and air-conditioned bus
15 comes from Phra Athit Road and then passes Ratchadam-
noen Klang Road (for Khao San Road), moves along Lan Luang
Road, Chakkaphatdi Phong Road and Bamrung Muang to Siam
Square. From there, it continues along Ratchadamri Road and
then goes all the way over Silom Road to Charoen Krung Road,
the Krung Thep Bridge and The Mall Tha Phra in Thonburi.
From Yaowarat, catch bus 4 from Charoen Krung Road which
goes along Rama IV Road, passing Hualamphong Train Station
and the Queen Saovabha Institute Snake Farm before reaching
the intersection with Silom Road. In the opposite direction, this
bus will skip Charoen Krung Road, passing Yaowarat Road in-
stead (which is a one-way traffic road).
The first line of the new Bus Rapid Transit (BRT) system starts
close to Chong Nonsi BTS station, where you can take the
pedestrian walkway to the first stop, Sathorn. From there,
the line heads south along Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra Road.
When it reaches Rama III Road, it turns west along the Chao
Phraya River with Ratchaphruek in Thonburi its final destina-
tion. As a commuter line, it is not of much use for foreign visi-
Traditional sightseeing attractions are rather rare on the
ground in Silom. A popular attraction is to have a drink on one
of the rooftop bars with an amazing view over Bangkok's sky-
line. You could also head for Lumphini Park or visit one of the
twice-daily shows at the Queen Saovabha Institute Snake Farm.
Skyline
While Silom's skyline doesn't match Hong Kong's or New
York's, the views are still worth it. A part of Bangkok's sky-
line, most of Silom's towers are financial institutions and office
buildings. The best way to enjoy Silom's skyline is by taking a
trip up the Banyan Tree Hotel or the State Tower. The 61st floor
of the Banyan Tree Hotel has the Vertigo and Moon Bar, where
you can dine or have a beer with one of the most spectacular
views of Southeast Asia. The State Tower iseven a few meters
higher up than Vertigo which makes it the world's tallest
rooftop bar/restaurant. Due to its slightly off-center location,
the views are arguably not quite as stunning, although it gives
a great view of the Chao Phraya River. See the Drink section for
more information about these rooftop bars.

51
 Districts
Most of Silom's buildings are office buildings not meant to be
visited. Heading out to take a look at these office buildings can
only be recommended for those having a deeper interest in
modern architecture and/or the financial sector. Some notable
office buildings that dominate the skyline include the CP Tow-
er, Empire Tower, ITF Tower and the United Center Building,
but the Robot Building has to be the quirkiest of them all.
Historic buildings
Do the robot!
Robot Building ( ), 191 Sathorn Tai Rd (BTS
Surasak). Probably one of the quirkiest buildings on the
globe, the Robot Building, well, looks like a giant robot.
It was designed by Sumet Jumsai in the mid-1980s and is
meant to reflect the computerization of banking. It is an odd
building, and Jumsai has explicitly stated that it could be re-
garded as a reaction against high-tech postmodern build-
ings common in that time. The antennas and eyes of the ro-
bot are not just for the looks, but all have practical functions.
At that time no one really saw it, but now the building feels
kind of retro. It is closed to the public, but you can best see
it from the Skytrain somewhere between Chong Nonsi and
Sala Daeng BTS stations. So look from the window!
Parks
Lumphini Park ( Suan Lumphini), (BTS Sala Kar Wai's In the Mood for Love, a Chinese movie that's worth
Daeng or MRT Lumphini, between Rama IV Rd, Ratchadam-
ri Rd, Wireless Rd (Wittayu) and Sarasin Rd). 5AM-7PM, daily.
A rare expanse of public greenery in the heart of the city, it
was once property of King Rama VI, who issued a royal com-
Silom See
mand to turn the area into a public park as a gift to Bangkok's
residents. The park's symbol, a statue of its creator Rama
VI, stands at the main entrance at the southwestern corner,
right opposite MRT Si Lom station. The park has a lake with
boats for rent and with a cycle track around it, and is popular
among early-morning fitness enthusiasts, but there's little
reason to wander in during the daytime heat. The Bangkok
Symphony Orchestra does, however, put on occasional per-
formances in the winter. Despite the above comments, there
are also rather large lizards/goannas in the place - they are
well worth a look. They tend to spend most of their time in
the water of the lake. Do not get too close to one, they can
BITE (if Aussie ones are any indication - and it usually gets
badly infected!) Free.
Queen Saovabha Memorial Institute Snake Farm
(), 1874 Rama IV Rd (BTS Sala
Daeng or MRT Si Lom, near Chulalongkorn Hospital
at the corner of Henri Dunant Rd and Rama IV Rd),
+66-2-252-0161(-4). M-F 8:30AM-4:30PM, Sa-Su, hols
8:30AM-noon. Venom extraction show M-F 11AM and
2:30PM, hols 11AM. Slideshow presentation M-F 10:30AM
and 2PM, hols 10:30AM. This institute contains a collection
of poisonous snakes which are "milked" daily for their venom
in order to produce invaluable anti-snakebite serum. Two
times a day a venom extraction show is held, in which the an-
nouncer explains about the dangerous kinds of snakes living
in Thailand and what to do when you run into one. The ani-
mals are treated with professional care and the whole show
is absolutely safe. If you want to a picture with a dangerous
snake curling around you this is your chance. 200 baht.
East Asiatic Company Building (
), (right in front of Oriental pier). Right at the
banks of the Chao Phraya river is this classical Venetian-style
building from the Danish East Asiatic Company. It was built
in 1901. A large share of foreign trade that came from the
warehouses had to go through this building before heading
for Europe. No public entry allowed.
Old Customs House, Charoen Krung Soi 36 (Oriental pier).
Right at the banks of the Chao Phraya river, the Old Customs
House is right where the 19th-century port of Bangkok used
to be. Now it is a crumbling building which needs a lot of
renovation to get back into a useful state, but its obvious
that this grand colonial-style home was once the pride of
the area. It was built in the 1880s and used to levy taxes on
traders that moved in and out of Siam. It's not open to the
public, but you can walk around and try to grasp the atmos-
phere of Bangkok in the 19th century. It was used in Wong
the watch. Free.
52
 Districts
Houses of worship
Silom lacks the impressive overload of Buddhist temples com-
mon in other districts. Wat Hua Lamphong and Wat Maha
Phruettharam could be seen as exceptions to this, though they
are no must-visits by any means. However, due to the presence
of the historic trade quarter, there are plenty of European-style
churches and old shophouses that can be visited. Also, the cur-
rent Hindu and Muslim population has chipped in with the
most important Hindu temple of Thailand on Silom Road, and
there are several mosques.
Do
Due to many rich business travelers visiting Silom, it is an excel-
lent destination for high-class spas. Particularly well-regarded
are the spas include Devarana (at the Dusit Thani Hotel), and
the eponymous operations at Banyan Tree and the legendary
Oriental the last of these probably being the most expen-
sive in town, offering (among other things) a six-hour Oriental
Romance package for two costing a whopping US$535.
BODY Tune, 2F, Yada Bldg, 56 Silom Rd (BTS Sala Daeng, exit
3), +66-2-238-4377, . 10AM-midnight daily. Well-respected
small chain offering excellent traditional Thai massages. 350
baht/hour.
Deverana Spa, Dusit Thani Hotel Bldg, 946 Rama IV Rd (BTS
Sala Daeng or MRT Si Lom), +66-2-636-3596, . 9AM-10PM
daily. Easily the most luxury spa of the city in the Dusit Thani
Hotel. There are 15 treatment rooms, including five spa suits.
Expect a very professional service and a beautiful modern
interior. If you need to ask the price, it means you probably
cannot afford it.
Historic Bangrak Food Tasting and Culture Tour, (meet at
BTS Saphan Taksin station, exit 3), +66-8-9126-3657, .
10AM-1PM daily. This is a culinary walking tour through
Bang Rak that takes about three hours. The tour includes the
tasting of seven to eight menus from five local eateries, as
well as visits to local landmarks. Each participant is given a
wireless earpiece for use during the tour. 950 baht.
Lumpinee Boxing Stadium (), Rama IV Rd
(MRT Lumphini), +66-2-251-4303. Matches Tu, F 6:30PM,
Sa 4:30PM and 8:30PM. An enjoyable way to understand
more of Thai culture is by visiting a Thai kickboxing (Muay
Thai) match. Foreigners pay 1000-2000 baht depending on
proximity to the ringside, while Thais can squeeze in for 230
baht. The matches take long though, and as the more inter-
esting matches tend to happen at the end, you might want
to skip the first hour.
Mambo Cabaret, 9/28 Sathu Pradit-Rama 3 Rd (near the Ra-
ma III Rd and Sathu Pradit Rd intersection, between Rama III
Soi 57 and 59; take a metered taxi from BTS Chong Nonsi),
+66-2-294-7381(-2). Showtime 7:15PM, 8:30PM, 10PM daily.
Silom Do
Touted as the "queen" of drag shows, this ladyboy show per-
forms three times a day. A show takes one hour and has all
the glitz and glamour you would expect. Before it was locat-
ed at Washington Square along Sukhumvit Road, but now
it has moved far off to the area around Rama III Road. You
can take a picture with the performers when the show ends,
but you will have to pay extra for it. Booking beforehand is
recommended. 1000 baht.
Ruen Thep, 286/1 Silom Rd (at the Silom Village Trade Cen-
ter), +66-2-635-6313, . Showtime 8:20PM-9:10PM. In the
evenings you can catch this authentic performance of vari-
ous forms of traditional Thai dance. It is part of the Silom Vil-
lage Trade Center complex. It might be a good idea to make
a reservation by phone beforehand. 600-900 baht.
Traditional Thai Puppet Theater ( ,
also known as the Joe Louis Theater), 1875 Rama IV
Road (MRT Lumphini, inside the Suan Lum Night Bazaar),
+66-2-252-9683(-4), . Showtime 7:30PM-8:45PM daily.
The establishment of this theatre was inspired by Sakhon
Yangkhieosot, or Joe Louis, who wished to preserve the
art of operating Hun Lakhon Lek puppets. In operating the
puppets, the puppeteers require basic skills of Khon perfor-
mance as they will have to move their footsteps and hand
gestures to coincide with those of the puppets. Each pup-
pet is operated by three puppeteers, lending it lifelike move-
ments. Hun Lakhon Lek usually performs the story of Ra-
makian, the Thai version of the Ramayana epic. Sakhon Nat-
tasin is currently the only performing troupe of Hun Lakhon
Lek in Thailand. The show is in Thai with translations into
English, and there is a segment where the puppets interact
with audience members that is popular with children. There
is also a corner inside the theatre where Khon mask making
is demonstrated, with a gallery of the Hun Lakhon Lek pup-
pets and their background. 3000 baht.
Learn
BaiPai Cooking School, 150/12 Soi Naksuwan (far south
in a small soi off Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra Road),
+66-2-294-9029, . Tu-Su 9:30AM-1:30PM, 1:30PM-5:30PM, M
closed. Participants will get to learn and enjoy the cooking
lessons with genuine and traditional Thai recipes which are
properly and accurately transferred together with secrets,
tips and tricks. A nice casual cooking school with a nice mod-
ern design in the middle of the Yan Nawa residential neigh-
borhood. Their van will pick you up from your hotel or loca-
tion in Bangkok, because it's not easy to find. Instructors are
fun and informative, and you get a souvenir printed photo
(and one is even emailed to you). As classes are only given
in the morning till the early afternoon, you still have the rest
of the day for sightseeing. 1800 baht.
Blue Elephant Cooking School and Restaurant, 233 Sathorn
Tai Rd (BTS Surasak), +66-2-673-9353, . 8:45AM-1PM or
1:15PM-4:30PM daily. Take classes from one of the most fa-
53
 Districts
mous chains of Thai restaurants in the world. While the price
is substantially higher than others in Bangkok, class takes
place in the historic Blue Elephant restaurant, and while din-
ing on your creations, wine, extra dishes and dessert are
served. And they give you a Blue Elephant apron as well.
2800 baht.
Silom Thai Cooking School, 68 Silom Soi 13,
+66-8-4726-5669, . 9AM-1PM or 1:40PM-6PM daily. A quaint
cooking school in an air-conditioned environment. It is very
clean and the instructor will have you frequently washing
your hands before preparing each dish. Cooking classes are
given in the morning and afternoon. The setting is more like
a dinner party rather than a classroom cooking school. Def-
initely worth a try. 1000 baht.
Buy
At first, shopping around Silom might feel a little lacklustre
compared to Sukhumvit. Its department stores and malls are
bland at best, but if you're in need of something, they are not
short on supply. If you're looking for antiques, arts, handicrafts,
silk and suits, however, Silom is the place to be. Especially the
Bang Rak area is good, as that's where the rich potential buyers
stay in expensive riverside hotels. Hundreds of jewelry and sil-
ver stores line up along Charoen Krung Road.
Antiques
House of Chao, 9/1 Decho Rd (BTS Chong Nonsi),
+66-2-635-7188. 10AM-6PM daily. This mall is filled with
dusty antique shops. Many of the items on sale are pure
junk, but maybe you'll find that one interesting teak treasure
you've been waiting for.
Jim Thompson Store, 9 Surawong Road (BTS Sala Daeng,
then walk through Soi Thaniya and take a right),
+66-2-632-8100, . 9AM-9PM daily. The flagship store of the
famous Thai silk brand, offering well-designed pieces of high
quality silk at equally high prices. Spread out over four floors,
this store offers the full range of Thompson's products, in-
cluding lengths of raw silk.
O.P. Place, 30/1 Charoen Krung Soi 38 (BTS Saphan
Taksin, Sathorn (Taksin) pier, behind The Oriental Hotel),
+66-2-266-0186. 10:30AM-6:30PM daily. This luxury neo-
classical building is a great starting point for your antiques
hunt through Silom. There are many floors with different
shops selling antiques, carpets, decorations, handicrafts,
jewelry, paintings, silk and many other cultural objects. The
third floor is an arts and crafts gallery. The whole mall has a
high-class atmosphere attached to it, so expect truly expen-
sive objects on sale.
Silom Galleria, 919/1 Silom Rd (BTS Surasak),
+66-2-630-0944(-50), . 9:30AM-6:30PM daily. This mall has
more than one hundred art, antique and gem stores, but it
Silom Buy
all feels a bit deserted and empty. There are plenty of art ex-
hibitions held, Thavibu and Tang are the most interesting
ones on contemporary Asian art.
Silom Village Trade Center, 286 Silom Rd (BTS Surasak),
+66-2-235-8760, . 10AM-9PM daily. Supposedly the last tra-
ditional Thai village on Silom Road, Silom Village is com-
prised of 15 teak houses as well as three buildings that were
constructed in 1908. The compound has been converted
into Thai handicraft shops, a restaurant and a hotel. It is a
touristy theme market, but still a good place to look for sou-
venirs, handbags, handicrafts and furniture. Be aware that
many items are fakes though. If you want to sleep at the ho-
tel, these are 1100-3500 baht per night. Expect simple rooms
for visitors on a budget. There is no breakfast or WiFi includ-
ed and the smell can be bad in some rooms.
Tailor-made clothes
Bangkok is particularly well-known for its plethora of tailor-
ing shops; here you can get a custom-made suit for amazingly
cheap prices compared to the West. Choosing a tailor is tricky
though. Tailors in the middle of tourist areas, such as Khao San
Road or Nana Plaza in Sukhumvit, generally provide poor qual-
ity and often quote silly prices. Avoid any tailor recommend-
ed by touts or tuk-tuk drivers as they cannot be trusted and
you'll have to pay their commission; also avoid super-cheap
packages or anything done in 24 hours, as the quality will suffer
accordingly. The most important rule for getting a good tailor:
do research. Don't just walk in the first tailor shop you see, but
ask fellow travelers and look online for (user) reviews. In gener-
al, the best tailors are slightly off the tourist track in Silom and
Sukhumvit.
It will help considerably if you know fabrics and what style you
want (bring along a sample or at least a picture), and can spare
the time for at least three sessions for a suit (measurement,
fitting and final adjustment). Prices obviously depend on the
tailor's skill and the materials used, but expect to pay at least
7000 baht for a two-piece suit. When picking the materials,
you're best off with Italian or English cloth as local fabrics are
often of poor quality (with the exception of silk). Insist on two
fittings for suits. Give the tailor a lot of detail and give yourself
time, so you will get exactly the suit you want.
Excelsior, Siam Heritage Hotel Bldg, 115/1 Surawong Rd (BTS
Chong Nonsi or BTS Sala Daeng, opposite Le Meredien),
+66-2-234-2399, . 9AM-10:30PM daily. One of the better
shops around Silom for hand-tailored clothing. It's been in
business since the 1920s. Here you can get a $5000 Armani
knockoff for around $300, all in good quality. You can even
call them and ask for a free pick-up. Definitely one of the bet-
ter places to get suits done in Bangkok.
Savile Row Company, Rose Hotel Bldg, 118 Surawong Rd
(behind Le Meridian), +66-2-235-4427. 9AM-9:30PM daily.
Another hand-tailored clothing store for men and women
that has been in the business for 40 years. From a Swiss Cot-
54
 Districts
ton shirt to a Crease Resistant Italian suit, Savile Row Com-
pany has plenty of options. The staff is very professional and
the quality of clothing is very good. Expect to pay around US
$300-450 for a suit.
Eat
Fancy restaurants, cafes, noodle shops and international chain
stores line the streets around Silom Road.
Budget
As Silom is a popular neighborhood with the locals, there are
enough places for cheap meals. For authentic Japanese food
at reasonable prices, pop into one of the many eateries on Soi
Thaniya. The Lalai Sap Market has some affordable seafood
stalls (see Buy).
Bang Rak defines the melting pot of Bangkok's cuisine. There
are various ethnic eateries in that area, including Thai, Chinese,
Indian and Muslim cuisines. But you can also find plenty of noo-
dle shops, stewed pork with rice () stalls and roast- Ichimonji ( ), 9/34 Soi Thaniya,
ed duck with rice () eateries. As this is a poorer +66-2-235-7889. Buried in the depths of the soi, this is a typ-
neighborhood, dishes are served for no more than 80 baht.
Momotarou Ramen House ( ), 9/19-21
Soi Thaniya (BTS Sala Daeng; at the end on the right
of the street if you are walking from Silom Road),
+66-2-235-0108. Simple budget eatery for some Japanese
noodles. There are no English signs outside, only a white
sign with red Japanese signs. 70 baht.
Nooddi (), 60/1 Silom Rd (BTS Sala Daeng),
+66-2-632-7989, . A trendy chain of noodle eateries, offer-
ing a variety of styles (Thai, Chinese, Japanese) in air-condi-
tioned surroundings for less than 50 baht a bowl. Try the iced
tea; the "glass" is big enough for two! 40-60 baht.
Prachak Restaurant (), 1415 Charoen
Krung Rd (BTS Saphan Taksin, across the road from Robin-
son; look for the red sign with the white duck on it),
+66-2-234-3755, . 7:30AM-8:30PM. A very small restaurant
that nevertheless managed to become famous by word of
mouth. The owner is currently the fourth generation run-
ning this restaurant that is more than one hundred years old!
No fancy banners, or even an English sign, just good food
that is well known among the locals. Ordering is no problem
as the menus have pictures shown. It is famous for its duck,
but get there early before it runs out. They also serve some
good pork and noodle soup. 60-150 baht.
Shin Emon, 56 Soi Thaniya (BTS Sala Daeng; one soi down
from the main Soi Thaniya towards Rama IV Road),
+66-2-632-8180. This Japanese restaurant specializes in
Japanese curry rice, which is really delicious. They also have
other Japanese dishes, such as tamako udon and ramen. The
Silom Eat
restaurant is basically one lengthy bar where the guests sit
next to each other waiting for their food to be done. 90 baht.
Mid-range
Cafe India, 460/8 Surawong Rd (opposite Trocadero Hotel
Building, near the intersection of Surawong Rd and Charoen
Krung Rd), +66-2-233-0419. Lunch 11AM-3PM daily, din-
ner 6PM-10:30PM daily. Has been serving up amazing Indian
food since at least the war years. Many other old GI bars and
restaurants in and around Patpong are still in business and
worth visiting. Beware of some of the wraith-like vets who
never made it home however. Some of these can be very dis-
turbing to encounter.
Edoya Japanese Restaurant (), 1F, Charn
Issara Tower I Bldg, 942/51 Rama IV Rd (BTS Sala Daeng
or MRT Si Lom), +66-2-233-0232, . M-Sa 11:30AM-2PM,
5:30PM-11PM, Su 5:30PM-11PM. One of Bangkoks oldest
and most reputable restaurants that has received visits from
the Japanese Ambassador. A warm, friendly and traditional
style. Lunch sets 190 baht, meals 300-1000 baht.
ical Japanese-style pub and eatery. Their set meals are de-
cent value, and English menus are available. 150-250 baht.
Harmonique, 22 Charoen Krung Soi 34 (Oriental pier),
+66-2-237-8175. While much more well-known by tourists
than in the past, it still has a unique atmosphere set in
a courtyard with three quaint town houses on the back-
ground. It's food could best be described as a mix between
Thai and Chinese cuisine. 450 baht.
Queen of Curry, 49 Charoen Krung Soi 50 (Sathorn (Taksin)
pier or BTS Saphan Taksin), +66-8-6559-7711. Known
as one of the best restaurants of Bangkok, don't expect
grandeur or expensive bills here. This modest restaurant
lacks any appearance, you might even see children do their
homework in the back. But the customers rave about the
food, which is stunning. They really are the queen of curries,
which can only be described as some of the best in Thailand.
With great service for a small price, this is a true gem, though
more and more foreigners seem to know about it. You must
try the green chicken curry, or ask the friendly staff for a rec-
ommendation. 150-300 baht.
Red PInn, 120/20 Soi Pramote 3 (around the corner from Hol-
iday Inn Silom; walk about 200 meters into Mahe Sak Rd,
then take a right into the first small street on the right),
+66-2-235-80-41, . 11AM-10PM. This home cooking restau-
rant has some nice peasant food from around the world, in-
cluding Northern Europe. Besides being a restaurant, it is al-
so a nice place to kick back a German lager. There are some
55
 Districts
big screen TVs, a pool table and free Wi-Fi. Also, they also
have rooms available for 1100 baht/night. 150-680 baht.
Souvlaki, 114/14 Silom Soi 4 (BTS Sala Daeng; on the left
hand side as you enter the soi, before Telephone Pub),
+66-2-632-9967(-8), . 11AM-1AM daily. One of the few Greek
restaurants in Bangkok, this serves some reasonably good
food, including a somewhat odd shaped souvlaki and lots of
ouzo. 150-250 baht.
Sushiko (), 9/11-12 Soi Thaniya (BTS Sala Daeng or hands, as you'd have to pay for them. The bill comes to you
MRT Si Lom; on the right side of the soi if coming from Silom
Road; right next to the 7-Eleven), +66-2-255-9505(-4).
11AM-midnight daily. A decent mid-range eatery right in the
middle of the Japanese Thaniya neighborhood. The interi-
or looks neat and modern and is in a typical Japanese style.
There is no English sign outside. 120-700 baht.
Splurge
The Chao Phraya riverside hotels (see Sleep) have the usu-
al splurge restaurants with overpriced menus, although The
Oriental's dinner buffet (2000+ baht) is acclaimed.
Drink
There's more to Silom's nightlife than just Patpong, but can a
visitor say they've been to Bangkok without at least a quick
peek into the 'Pong?
Soi Patpong
Patpong Night Market
You might want to take a deep breath and down a few shots
before heading into the insanity of Patpong (, Phat-
phong), which in fact consists only of two small sois (Patpong
1 and Patpong 2). It's a short walk from BTS Sala Daeng station,
deserted by day but jam-packed and overflowing in all direc-
tions by night. The throngs of middle age tourists shopping for
Silom Drink
sarongs and chopsticks just makes the sex shows going on in
every open door seem that much more surreal.
Prepare to be harassed by touts armed with laminated 'menus'
of acts you can order up. If you follow the touts, you might end
up spending a ton of money on drinks to watch sad looking
girls perform unhygienic acts with various garden-party acces-
sories (lawn darts, ping pongs, etc etc) in one of the upstairs
bars. While seemingly cheap at first, be prepared to pay thou-
sands of bahts when the girls flock to you with drinks in their
within minutes and the dispute could become violent.
If you instead try one of the bars on the lower level, you can
safely watch girls dancing on stage, but will occasionally be
asked by one of the girls if you could buy her a drink. She will
get upwards of 50% of the drink price as a bonus and will join
you at your table for some conversation in exchange. As a rule
of thumb, only trust bars that already have a fair number of
customers; a drink should not cost more than 130 baht or so.
Note that all the go-go bars in Patpong close by 1AM sharp!
It must be said that Patpong has changed remarkably over the
years. While it used to be just a sleazy den of go-go bars, the
last years a lot of visitors came to the area just to see what the
fuss is about. It is not unusual to see families walk through the
area with their children in the early evening. The locals found
a way to make money from this new group of curious tourists:
an enormous night market stocked with overpriced souvenirs
that takes up the whole road and even spills over to the sur-
rounding area (including Silom Road). See the Buy section for
more information on the night market.
King's Castle III, Soi Patpong 1 (BTS Sala Daeng, left side of
Soi Patpong 1 if coming from Silom Road). 7PM-1AM daily.
The place to go gawp at kathoeys (ladyboys) strutting their
stuff. Prepare to tolerate a few invasions of personal space,
but it's all in good fun. No surprises on the bill. Drinks 100
baht.
56
 Districts
Soi Thaniya
Soi Thaniya in the harsh glare of day
Soi Thaniya is Patpong for the Japanese; you might be excused
for thinking you've ended up in Shinjuku when you see the
plethora of signs in Japanese and kimono-clad girls beckon-
ing you in. Most bars and clubs are off-limits to Westerners (ex-
cept for the occasional British pub), but some of the restaurants
aren't bad for a serve of Japanese food and some beer or sake
to wash it down.
Silom Soi 2 and 4
Sois 2 and 4 are the center of gay nightlife in Bangkok, although
these days Soi 4 packs in a mixed crowd with plenty of bars
that aren't gay by any stretch of the imagination. On weekends
Soi 4 is cordoned off and a valid ID is (theoretically) required to
enter. Across Surawong Road is Soi Twilight, Bangkok's largest
gay go-go bar strip.
Balcony Pub ( ), 86-88 Silom Soi 4,
+66-2-235-5891, . 5:30PM-2AM daily. This is probably the
most popular gay pub of Bangkok. They have a friendly staff
and beer is reasonably priced.
DJ Station, 8/6-8 Silom Soi 2 (BTS Sala Daeng, at the end of
Silom Soi 2), +66-2-266-4029, . 9PM-2AM daily. The most
famous gay nightclub in Bangkok and busy almost every
night, starting with a ladyboy show at 11:30PM. Jam-packed
on weekends, do not enter if you're even slightly claustro-
Silom Drink
phobic. Most drinks are 100 baht (be careful with spirits, the
bartenders don't measure anything and tend to over-pour,
sometimes badly), or buy a bottle of spirits from 1000 baht
up and get free mixers. Spread over three levels, the ground
floor has a big dancefloor, the second floor attracts "money-
boys" and their admirers (but these are by no means the ma-
jority), and the third floor is the place to escape if you can't
move (if you can get there). Opening hours vary but usually
closes between 2-3:30AM. Entry fee is 100-200 baht includ-
ing 1-2 drinks.
G.O.D. Club (...), Siri-Orr Place Bldg, 80/18-21 Silom Soi
2/1 (BTS Sala Daeng or MRT Si Lom; next to Nooddi restau-
rant in small alley between Silom Soi 2 and Soi Thaniya),
+66-2-632-8033. 9PM-5AM daily. G.O.D. is short for Guys on
Display, and that's basically what the whole place is about.
It is an alternative to DJ Station and usually stays open until
5AM or later (though closing times vary). It attracts a crowd
that wants to party till late in the night, as it only begins to
get going between 1AM and 3AM. Entry fee is 300 baht, in-
cluding 2 drinks.
Luminous, 78/80 Silom Soi 4 (BTS Sala Daeng),
+66-2-632-8390. 9PM-2AM daily. Luminous is another
famed hip-hop bar spread over three floors, yet somewhat
small. For a first time visit or once-in-a-while visitor, this
place is a good find. However, if you go there too often,
you may find their repertoire of songs somewhat repetitive.
Cocktails are not remarkably special and prices are about av-
erage for the area. Comfy seats downstairs as well as on the
third floor. Or take a seat outside, where tables make a good
spot to peoplewatch.
Tapas Room Club ( ), 114/17-18 Silom Soi 4
(BTS Sala Daeng; on your left immediately as you enter the
soi), +66-2-234-4737, . 8PM-2AM daily. This is more of a
groovy club than a Spanish snack joint, with two stylishly
decorated floors and a peoplewatching terrace. The music is
house with a Latin twist. It is one of the places on Soi 4 that
has a mixed crowd. 100 baht.
Telephone Pub ( ), 114/11 Silom Soi 4 (BTS Sala
Daeng), +66-2-234-3279, . 7PM-2AM daily. Another one of
Silom Soi 4's gay bars.
English pubs
Barbican ( ), 9/4-5 Soi Thaniya (BTS Sala
Daeng), +66-2-234-3590, . 11:30AM-1AM daily. A favorite
among Bangkok's expatriates, this British-style pub is actual-
ly in the middle of the Japanese neighborhood! Don't expect
anything classy here, but its relaxed atmosphere does make
for a nice visit. Besides beer, they also have simple dishes
that can be ordered. Mains start for around 200 baht. In the
early evenings they have "happy hour", so don't expect a
seat at that time.
Duke of Wellington ( ), GF, United Cen-
ter Bldg, 323 Silom Rd (BTS Sala Daeng), +66-2-234-2875, .
57
 Districts
10AM-1AM daily. For nice live bands and good service, try
this authentic English-style pub. The beers and food are a
little pricey by Thai standards, but the place at least has
free WiFi. Happy hours on weekdays are between 5PM-8PM,
while on Saturdays on Sundays they are between noon-8PM.
Molly Malones Irish Pub (formerly Irish Xchange Pub), Si-
bunruang Bldg, 1/5-6 Convent Rd (BTS Sala Daeng),
+66-2-266-7160(-1), . 9AM-1AM daily. This is quite a large Ir-
ish pub with two floors. Its large expat audience mostly sips
Guinness, but there are also other beers on tap. Excellent
daily lunch buffets and daily Happy Hour specials. Also an
All-You-Can-Eat 'Sunday Roast' from noon to 7PM. Satellite
TV sports and live music area are available.
O'Reilly's Irish Pub, 62/1-4 Silom Rd (BTS Sala Daeng, exit 1),
+66-2-632-7515(-19), . 11AM-1AM daily. It is on the corner
with Soi Thaniya, but actually still located along Silom Road
itself. Live music starts around 9PM. At Tuesdays and Thurs-
days, Johnny Deschamps, a kind of Thai Frank Sinatra per-
forms, while Wednesdays are taken by the band Vertigo with
their blues, pop and soul sound.
Beer gardens and microbreweries
Tawandang Microbrewery (Rong Beer Yereman, German
Beer Hall), 462/61 Rama III Rd (BRT Phraram 3),
+66-2-678-1114(-6), . 5PM-1AM daily. Tawandang is a very
popular German microbrewery, mostly among upper-mid-
dle class Thais. It also has good food at reasonable prices,
and a good stage show with many acts and fun music. It can
be a hard to find, but is well worth the trip. Most taxis will
know this place, just ask for the "Rong Beer Yereman" (Ger-
man Beer Hall) and they should understand. Also only a few
stops on the new BRT (Bus Rapid Transit) from Chong Non-
si (ask fellow passengers where to get off). Reservations rec-
ommended, especially on weekends.
Superhip
Note that fairly strictly applied dress codes apply to all of the
following, so no flip-flops, shorts or sleeveless shirts.
Sleep
There are a number of hotels in the Silom area, although the
cheaper ones tend to be the kind that rents rooms by the hour.
Budget
Ngam Duphli
Slightly off from Silom, but still much much closer than Khao
San Road is Ngam Duphli Road, a small ghetto of cheap guest
houses. It's fair to say that this neighborhood has been going
Silom Sleep
downhill, but it's still your best bet for cheap accommodation
in the area.
Malaysia Hotel, 54 Soi Ngam Duphli (MRT Lumphini),
+66-2-679-7127(-36), . The Malaysia Hotel used to be an in-
stitution in Bangkok; it was Bangkok's most famous budget
accommodation in the whole of Bangkok. Those days are
long long gone, now it turned into a seedy gay pick-up hos-
tel with massage parlor. Their 119 rooms are decent value
though, as they are fairly large and have air-conditioning,
hot-water bathrooms, Internet access and a swimming pool.
800-1500 baht.
Sala Thai Daily Mansion, 15 Soi Saphan Khu (MRT Lumphini;
off Soi Sri Bamphen), +66-2-287-1436. Probably the best
guest house in the Soi Ngam Duphli area with 15 small, but
clean, basic rooms. It is at the end of a very quiet soi. Rooms
are private, but toilets and hot-water shower sare shared.
Nice rooftop terrace too. 300-600 baht.
Elsewhere
HQ Hostel Bangkok, 5/3-4 Silom Soi 3 (Phiphat Rd) (BTS
Chong Nonsi, next to Bangkok Bank Headquarters),
+66-2-233-1598, . HQ Hostel Bangkok is a boutique accom-
modation for backpackers and budget travelers ideally lo-
cated in the middle of Silom. It is within walking distance of
all major attractions and the transport network. Rooms in-
clude air-conditioning, and there are free WiFi and internet
computers available. 380 baht.
Lub d Bangkok, 4 Decho Rd (MRT Sam Yan, then quite a walk
through Si Phraya Rd), +66-2-634-7999, . This hostel is
designed by famous hotel designers. It offers 8-bed dormi-
tories, ladies-only dormitories, private rooms for 1-2 people
and normal double bed hotel rooms with a private bath-
room. All rooms are clean, comfortable and have air con-
ditioning. There's a TV room, free WiFi and free use of the
nine internet terminals and luggage storage. There are do-
it-yourself laundry services for around 60 baht. The colorful
bar offers breakfast, snacks and beverages until midnight (2
beers for 100 baht). Booking is cheaper if done via the web
compared to just walking in. 400-700 baht.
Take a Nap, 920-926 Rama IV Rd (MRT Sam Yan, oppo-
site Thai Red Cross Society), +66-2-637-0015, . A clean
and comfortable hostel or budget hotel. It lies along Rama
IV Road, which can be noisy at night due to the massive
amounts of traffic. It is not a party hostel, so stay quiet at
night. Rooms have a modern bathroom with hot showers.
Free WiFi and free use of two internet terminals is offered,
as well as do-it-yourself laundry services (200 baht) and lug-
gage storage. 800 baht.
Mid-range
Bossotel Inn, 55/8-14 Charoen Krung Soi 42/1 (BTS Saphan
Taksin or Sathorn (Taksin) pier), +66-2-630-6120, . In a
rather quiet dead-end street, that ends at the Shangri-la Ho-
58
 Districts Silom Contact

tel, it is close to Silom Rd, the river, and various public trans-
port networks. Rooms are nice and clean, and feature air-
conditioning and a fridge. The hotel has a pool and a spa,
and prices include breakfast. 1400-2000 baht.
De Arni Bangkok, 68 Surawong Road (BTS Sala Daeng or
MRT Sam Yan), +66-2-235-7373, . The rooms offers air-
conditioning, an Internet connection, mini-bar, fridge and
safe. Some of its amenities include dry cleaning, laundry ser-
vices and ample parking spaces. There is also a restaurant.
1280-3840 baht.
LUXX, 6/11 Decho Rd (BTS Chong Nonsi),
+66-2-635-8800, . This boutique hotel offers the holistic con-
cept with its 13 individually designed rooms and suites.
Rooms are designed as studio units equipped with cable
television, coffee and tea making facilities and mini bar.
Suites are structured as one bedroom units with stylish out-
door views, LCD-television, personalized DVD players, mi-
ni-kitchen and sofa corners. All rooms have WiFi, and bath-
rooms with hot and cold water. 1800-3200 baht.
Splurge
The Bang Rak area at the Chao Phraya river has some of the
world's best hotels, including Mandarin Oriental and Shangri-
La (another contender for this title is The Peninsula, right at the
other side of the river in Thonburi). Splurge hotels can be found
all along Silom Road and Sathorn Road, and many of them cater
to business visitors.
Contact
Finding WiFi in Silom is just as easy as finding a girl in Patpong.
Nearly every hotel has free WiFi for their customers (except,
perversely, some of the more expensive ones, where you have
to pay extra), or available for everyone in the lobby. Many of
them also have Internet terminals available. If you're just visit-
ing, many cafes and restaurants offer free WiFi, including the
Duke Of Wellington and other English pubs.

Mandarin Plaza Hotel, 178 Surawong Road (BTS Chong Non-

si), +66-2-235-1760(-79), . The Mandarin Plaza Hotel is a
mid-range Bangkok accommodation. This three-star hotel
has 175 air-conditioned rooms, all of which have cable tele-
vision, refrigerator and mini-bar. It has a restaurant named
Bua Luang that serves authentic Thai cuisine. 1300-2000
baht.
Montien Hotel, 54 Surawong Rd (BTS Sala Daeng or MRT
Sam Yan), +66-2-233-7060(-9), . Built at the same time as
the Dusit Thani Hotel and looks like it. Some rooms offer a
clear view (and muffled noise) of Patpong, immediately op-
posite, a fact which seems to account for much of the clien-
tele. While in a nice traditional style, the rooms are some-
what overpriced though. 3000-4800 baht.
Get out
If you like the go-go bar scene at Patpong, you might
want to check out Soi Cowboy and Nana Entertainment
Plaza in Sukhumvit, or the enormous "massage parlors" of
Ratchadaphisek.
The superhip nightlife also continues at Sukhumvit with
trendy clubs and restaurants like Bed Supperclub and Long
Table.
River City, just over the edge in Yaowarat and Phahurat, is
just like the expensive antique stores in Bang Rak. That dis-
trict also has similar 19th century colonial-style buildings.

Narai Hotel, 222 Silom Rd (BTS Chong Nonsi),

+66-2-237-0100, . Great value for money, as the rooms are
luxury with flat-screen televisions, free WiFi, air-conditioning
and nice views over the city. Services include a huge break-
fast as well as room service. All of this for a cheaper price than
other hotels in the area. 1800-3600 baht.

Silom Avenue Inn, 284/11-13 Silom Soi 22/1 (BTS Chong

Nonsi; inside a small soi from the main road),
+66-2-2-238-4680(-7), . Silom Avenue Inn is a small but rela-
tively luxury hotel. It looks stylish, and while it is a budget
hotel, it is comfortable and its spacious rooms are a good
value. 1000-1500 baht.

Silom City Hotel, 72 Soi Prachum (BTS Surasak),

+66-2-635-6211, . The 70 guest rooms have lots of ameni-
ties, including air-conditioning, WiFi, a personal safe, a mu-
sic-system, colour TV, fridge and minibar. Breakfast is includ-
ed. 1500-3200 baht.

59
 Districts Rattanakosin Understand

are Rattanakosin's prime sights, the most important of which is

RATTANAKOSIN the Grand Palace. Just like in Ayutthaya, part of its compound
is dedicated to a royal temple, Wat Phra Kaew, the most sacred
temple of Thailand home to the Emerald Buddha. Most people
hop on the express boat and spend a full day taking in these
Understand shimmering beauties. Walking between the sights is a blast,
and can be easily done if you carry a bottle of water for the oc-
casional cool-off.
History
The Rattanakosin-era was the fourth Thai Kingdom, after the
Sukhothai, Ayutthaya and Thonburi Kingdoms that preceded Get in
it. When the powerful Ayutthaya Kingdom was destroyed and
burnt down by Burmese armies in 1767, a small period of chaos
and Burmese occupation ensued the lands of Siam. The resis-
tance was led by General Taksin, a capable military leader that
defeated the Burmese within one year and established the new
Siamese capital in Thonburi, right across the Chao Phraya riv-
er from Rattanakosin. Instead of just conquering back Siam, he
also took hold of Western Cambodia, almost the whole of the
Malay Peninsula, Lanna (modern Far Northern Thailand) and
Laos.

Despite these successes, in 1779 King Taksin had proclaimed

himself a sotapanna (or divine figure), striking against the pow-
erful Buddhist monkhood. The state was in economic turmoil,
with rampant corruption and famine. Many Chinese factions
were discontent with the current leadership and King Taksin
tried to restore order by harsh punishments and purges. A pop-
ular general under King Taksin was General Phraya Chakri, who
had successfully managed the invasion of Cambodia. While he
was away, a rebellion controlled Thonburi, forcing King Taksin Map of Rattanakosin
to step down. King Taksin was secretly executed. When Phraya
Getting into Rattanakosin is quite a hassle, as the Skytrain and
Chakri came back from Cambodia, he was offered the throne,
metro systems do not cover the area (not yet, at least). For time
becoming King Rama I, the first King of the Chakri dynasty and
being, your options are to either take a taxi, or use the boats:
starting the Rattanakosin-era.

One of his first actions was to move the capital across the
river, from Thonburi to Rattanakosin. According to him, Rat-
tanakosin had a more strategic location, as he turned it into an
artificial island with the the Chao Phraya river in the west and
man-made canals in the east. Chinese merchants occupied the
area at that time, but they were moved outside of the new city
walls to the area now known as Yaowarat. King Rama I restored
the social and political system of the Ayutthaya period, even
imitating that city's layout and architecture in Rattanakosin
including the Grand Palace, which building plan closely resem-
bled that of the Grand Palace in Ayutthaya. Even the bricks
from the ruins in Ayutthaya were moved downstream to be in-
corporated into the new capital's grand scheme.
Orientation
By boat
The best way to get in Rattanakosin is by Chao Phraya Express
Boat. Besides a relatively quick and convenient way of travel,
it is also a much more enjoyable than looking at cars stuck in
traffic while inhaling exhaust gases. The wind from the river is
a relaxed way to cool down from tropical temperatures, too.
If you're coming from downtown, you can take the Skytrain to
Saphan Taksin station and transfer onto the express boat. A
single trip from Saphan Taksin to Tha Chang (near the Grand
Palace) takes about 30 minutes and costs 13 baht. Other no-
table stops include Tha Tien (for Wat Pho), Phra Athit (for Khao
San Road) and Thewet (for Dusit). It is best to take the orange
flag boats, as yellow flag boats miss out all all stops except Tha
Tien.

As the district has been the result of careful 18th-century urban
planning, orientation in Rattanakosin is fairly straightforward.
Like Ayutthaya, the focal point of the area is Sanam Luang, a
wide open royal field and the site of many ceremonies and fes-
tivals associated with the royal family. Surrounding this field
From Tha Tien (Wat Pho), you can take a ferry shuttle to Wat
Arun, across the river at the Thonburi side. Ferries leave every
10 minutes for just 3 baht. As many students from the univer-
sities live across the river in Thonburi, there are plenty of oth-
er commuter ferries that cross the river. Tha Chang has ferries

60
 Districts
to Wat Rakung and Wang Lang (Siriraj), Tha Phra Chan has fer-
ries to Wang Lang (Siriraj), Thonburi Railway and Phra Pin Klao
Bridge, and Thewet has a ferry to Wat Kharubodj.
Eastern Rattanakosin (roughly the area around the Golden
Mount) is served by the Golden Mount Line of the Saen Saep
Express Boat service. If you happen to be in that area, using the
canal boat is the quickest way to get to Siam Square, Sukhumvit
and Ramkhamhaeng. The stop closest to the Golden Mount is
Panfa Leelard, from which there are direct services to Pratu-
nam pier. There you could switch onto the NIDA Line, that
runs from Pratunam all the way northeast to Wat Sriboonreung
in Ramkhamhaeng. A single trip from Panfa Leelard to Pratu-
nam takes about 20 minutes and costs 12 baht. On the trip,
you will pass the stops Talad Bobae (for the garment market
of the same name), Sapan Charoenpol, Baan Krua Nua (for Jim
Thompson's House), Sapan Hua Chang (for Siam Square) and
Pratunam (for Pratunam and Ratchaprasong).
By bus
While not as chaotic as downtown, bus travel here is still not
a good idea. However, as other good public transport options
are limited, bus travel can be the fastest way of travel from
downtown (though this is heavily depending on traffic). The
road around Sanam Luang is one of the city's bus hubs, but as
it is a circular road, it is quite hard to find out where the bus is
going. It is a better idea to get on the bus in front of Tha Chang
pier (near the Grand Palace).
See
Scenes from the Ramayana inside Wat Phra Kaew
A trip to Bangkok is not complete without a visit to some of
Rattanakosin's prime sights. Bangkok counts hundreds of Bud-
dhist temples, known in Thai as "wats", with the most impor-
tant ones in Rattanakosin. Temples are an essential part of the
daily life of most Thais. Most of them have impressive archi-
tecture and much devotion has been given to the decoration.
Every temple is unique some of them are beautifully deco-
rated with thousands of colored glass pieces, while others por-
tray massive Buddha statues of pure gold.
Rattanakosin See
You could spend weeks visiting temples in Bangkok, but as
most visitors only spend a couple of days in the city, it is im-
portant to choose the ones that are especially beautiful, sacred
and culturally significant. The Grand Palace is not just a palace,
but also includes Wat Phra Kaew, the most sacred temple of
Thailand. It is a must-see for every visitor of the city, and the
palace grounds are so large that you have to spend at least a
full morning walking through the complex. Beside the Grand
Palace, most travelers visit Wat Pho, probably the largest reclin-
ing Buddha statue in the world, and Wat Arun, a large prang
that is beautifully decorated with blue and white ceramics (it
is technically at the Thonburi side of the river, but is easily vis-
ited using the ferry from Tha Tien pier). These top three attrac-
tions are conveniently clustered right next to each other. Oth-
er prominent temples are Wat Saket and the Golden Mount,
built at an artificial hill with a nice view over the city, and Wat
Suthat and the Giant Swing at the eastern side of Rattanakosin.
Wat Ratchanadda, Wat Thep Thida Ram, Wat Intharawihan, Wat
Ratchabophit and Wat Ratchapradit could be considered off
the beaten path and give a more authentic experience.
Bear in mind that for all temples you must be dressed appro-
priately (no shorts, no flipflops, no sleeveless shirts) or risk be-
ing denied entry, although some places will offer rental para-
chute pants for a small (refundable) deposit. The temples play
an important role in Buddhist traditions. Monks wake up ear-
ly in the morning and perform the daily alms ritual between
5AM and 7AM (called tak bat ). Monks line up in front of
the temple accepting donations from the people, most of them
food and daily necessities such as rice, soap, candles, soda cans
and even toilet paper. By giving, Buddhists believe that these
good deeds will bring luck later in life or in the life beyond this
one. The best temple to experience the alms ceremony is Wat
Benchamabophit in Dusit. At one of the Buddhist markets, you
can buy a bucket filled with products to give to the monks (see
Buy).
Whether you walk or take a tuk-tuk, don't listen to anyone
telling you the temples are closed for a "Buddhist holiday", that
they're only open in the afternoon because the monks are pray-
ing, or anything else along those lines. While it's true that open-
ing times of temples and palaces can vary due to ceremonies
and state occasions, you should always check it out yourself.
These seemingly "helpful pedestrians" are in fact scammers,
trying to get you into a full-day tuk-tuk ride around the city,
where they'll try to trick you into buying gems, souvenirs and
other junk.
It's worth giving the Grand Palace and Wat Pho together a full
day since the heat and glare are very wearing and there is a lot
to take in.
61
 Districts
Map of the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew
Grand Palace
Bangkok's most popular tourist attraction, the Grand Palace
( Phra Borom Maha Ratcha Wang) is the for- Wat Phra Kaew (), formally Wat Phra Si Rattana
mer residence of the King and is built adjacent to, and more or
less integrated with Wat Phra Kaew (also known as the Temple
of the Emerald Buddha). The palace was originally built togeth-
er with the establishment of Bangkok by King Rama I and has
been expanded ever since. It covers a wide range of architec-
tural styles, ranging from a pure Ayutthayan style of the tem-
ples to a blend of Thai and Western for later structures. While
the king no longer lives here, a large part of the complex is used
for royal residences and ceremonies and is off-limits to tourists.
Combined entry is a steep 350 baht, plus an optional 200 baht
for a two-hour audio guide; Thais get in for free. Your tick-
et includes entry into the Dusit Palace in Dusit (valid for sev-
en days). The Grand Palace is open every day from 8:30AM to
4:30PM, with the last tickets sold at 3:30PM; it cannot be said
enough, do not believe any scammers who attempt to con-
vince you otherwise. It is best to attend the Grand Palace dur-
ing weekdays, as some throne halls are closed in the weekends
for ceremonial purposes. Be aware that a strict dress code ap-
plies for visitors to the palace. Ladies must cover their upper
arms and legs down to the thigh, while men must wear long
trousers and at least a t-shirt. Sarongs can be borrowed for free
at the entrance, but you must leave a deposit. On some holi-
days the dressing room may be closed, in which case you can
rent clothes across the street for a fee. Thais seem to follow
even tighter dressing regulations, such as wearing black dur-
ing royal funeral ceremonies, but they understand it when for-
eigners do not follow those.
It can get very crowded (and hot) once the tour buses start to
roll in, so getting an early start might be a good idea! There
are free English tours four times a day, just look for the sign
after you pass the ticket gate. The palace grounds can easily be
explored on your own though. Visitors are corralled along a set
route. First you'll walk through Wat Phra Kaew with the Grand
Palace itself coming right after.
Rattanakosin See
Wat Phra Kaew
Temple guardian inside Wat Phra Kaew
Satsadaram (), is the
most sacred Buddhist temple of Thailand. While construction
of the temple was completed in 1784, it has a sanitized ap-
pearance as if it was built only yesterday. The temple houses a
diminutive jade statue, the Emerald Buddha, of uncertain but
long provenance and revered as the symbol of the Thai state.
According to the legend, it was created in India in 43 BC after
which it was taken to Sri Lanka, Cambodia and eventually Si-
am. Art historians, however, describe the statue as belonging
to the Chiang Saen style of the 15th century, concluding it must
have originally come from Lanna (current Northern Thailand).
It was taken to Luang Prabang in the current state of Laos in
1552, and moved to Vientiane twelve years later. In 1779, in
the Thonburi period, General Chao Phraya Chakri captured Vi-
entiane and returned the Emerald Buddha to Siam. When he
was crowned as King Rama I, he moved the Emerald Buddha
to its current location in Rattanakosin. Visitors line up around
the building for a chance to walk by the Emerald Buddha with
offerings of lilies and incense. You must take off your shoes be-
fore entering the bot, and taking pictures inside is not allowed.
Also show respect by sitting with your feet pointing away from
the Buddha. The Buddha's clothing is changed three times a
year depending on the season; you can see the other outfits in
the Pavilion of Regalia, Royal Decorations and Thai Coins after
the tour.
Continuing the tour, the temple actually consists of a series of
courtyards full of chedis and buildings all in different sizes and
colors. Some buildings are in gold, some are decorated with
broken porcelain and there are smaller wats containing Bud-
dhas of various poses and sizes. Also check out the enormous
mural of the Ramayana that decorates the exterior wall. Other
interesting structures include the group of eight prang towers,
the Sri-Lankan style Phra Si Rattana Chedi, a model of Angkor
Wat, the Royal Pantheon, among others.
62
 Districts Rattanakosin See

The palace buildings this palace is used for the lying-in-state; the body is kept here
while waiting for an auspicious date for cremation. The in-
side is only opened on weekdays. It houses the Phra Ratcha
Banlang Pradap Muk, a wooden throne beautifully decorat-
ed with mother-of-pearl inlaid work. The beautiful Aphorn
Phimok Prasat Pavilion next to the building served as the king's
mounting platform and as a changing room for royal proces-
sions.

Next to the hall is a small restaurant where you can fresh up

with a drink or have something to eat. If you're not thirsty or
hungry, continue your way to the Wat Phra Kaew Museum. Yes,
we haven't had enough of Wat Phra Kaew just yet! This muse-
um was designed in the reign of King Rama V as the Royal Mint.
Now it shows a treasure of artifacts that were rescued from the
restoration of the Grand Palace in the 1980s. On the ground
Amarin Winichai Hall
floor you can find the bones of the white elephants of former
Leaving Wat Phra Kaew, on the right you'll see a Chinese kings. More artifacts can be found upstairs, the most interest-
gate that is adorned with beautiful small porcelain pieces. ing being the original costumes of the Emerald Buddha. Also
Move on and you'll be guided past the beautiful palace build- upstairs are the two scale models of the complex. The first one
ings. The first you'll see is the Phra Maha Montien com- shows the Grand Palace as initially built, while the other shows
plex and its accompanying buildings. This has been the resi- its current design.
dence of Siam's kings before King Rama V decided to move
After leaving the palace buildings, when the compound's en-
to the Chitralada Palace in Dusit. The Amarin Winichai Hall
try gate is in sight, turn right, double back past the ticket coun-
(), the building's main audience
ters and pay a visit to the Pavilion of Regalia, Royal Decorations
hall, can be accessed by visitors on weekdays. It was used as
and Thai Coins. Entry is free with your ticket. Not only is it air-
an audience hall welcoming foreign guests. Inside is the boat-
conditioned, but it houses an impressive array of gold jewelry,
shaped Busabok, an open sided throne topped with a spired
weaponry and coins, and gives some insight into the evolution
roof. Currently it is often used for ceremonies, such as the
of the dynasty and its elaborate royal ceremonies. A highlight
King's annual birthday speech.
are the seasonal "clothes" of the Emerald Buddha, ranging from
Next up is the Chakri Maha Prasat Hall a warm winter wrap to a minimalistic ensemble for summer.
(), a building constructed in the
reign of King Rama V in 1876. It was used for receiving royal
guests who were monarchs or heads of state. It is built in a
distinctively European neo-classical style, but with a Thai roof
somewhat incongruously plopped on top. This remarkable de-
sign is the result of a dispute between King Rama V and oth-
er members of the royal family. King Rama V wanted to give
the building an entirely European look, while the other mem-
bers wanted the building to have distinctively Siamese spires.
While unusual, it is still one of the most distinctive and mem-
orable palace buildings in the complex. It was formerly used
as the elephant stables; the bronze elephants are supposed to
be a reminder of that. The ashes of the kings of the Chakri dy- Map of Wat Pho
nasty are housed inside. At weekdays you can enter the build-
ing for the weapons museum. At noon, in front of the building
is where the changing the guard ceremony ends. The guards
Wat Pho
don't mind when you take pictures with them, just don't take Wat Pho (, +66-2-226-0335, ), popularly known as
it too far and stay respectful. They will never move no matter the Temple of the Reclining Buddha, is the largest temple of
what happens. Bangkok, and probably the oldest too, as it predates the found-
The final large structure is the Dusit Maha Prasat Hall ing of the capital by about 200 years. Most foreign tourists
(). It is a typical Thai building con- come for the much-needed picture of themselves with the
structed by King Rama I in 1790. Formerly named the In- enormous Reclining Buddha ( Phra Buddha-
thraphisek Maha Prasat Hall, this the first throne hall that saiyas); it is the largest reclining Buddha image in Thailand,
has been constructed within the Grand Palace. When a king, and possibly the largest in the whole world. The list of records
queen or other important member of the royal family dies, doesn't end there; Wat Pho is home to more than one thousand

63
 Districts Rattanakosin See

Buddha images, more than any other temple in the country. Other temples
The temple as it appears now comes from the late 18th-cen-
tury, right after the founding of Rattanakosin, when King Ra-
ma I almost completely rebuilt the complex. He renamed the
temple Wat Phra Chetuphon (), as Thais still call
it today, but the new name never really caught on in the West.
Another major revamp took place in 1832, when in the reign
of King Rama III new chapels were added and walls and pillars
were decorated with inscriptions on traditional medicine. Wat
Pho is often cited as Thailand's first university, as even before
the temple's founding, the site was a center of education for
traditional Thai medicine.

The Wat Pho complex is cut in two walled compounds with Soi
Chetuphon separating them. The southern compound, Tuk-
gawee, is barely visited as it is a working Buddhist monastery
with monks residing there. The northern compound can be di-
vided into an eastern courtyard and a western courtyard. Bus-
loads of tourists get in using the north entrance at Thai Wang
Road, stand in line to get a quick peek of the Reclining Buddha,
and head off. That's a mistake. Better take the south entrance
at Soi Chetuphon, which actually is the main entrance. From
there you can start exploring the complex while missing out on
most of the tourist crowds. The admission fee is 50 baht, and it
is open from 8AM till 5PM. You can arrange an English-speak-
ing personal guide provides you with interesting information
of the complex. It costs around 200-400 baht, depending on
the size of your group (and your negotiation skills).

The main entrance is one of the 16 gates that surround the

walled compound. These entrances are guarded by enormous
Chinese stone giants. Most of these giants are "farang", West-
erners that wear wide-brimmed hats and hold a sword. I bet Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn

you find these Westerners scarier than the guardian demons
protecting Wat Phra Kaew! When Thai ships exported rice to
China, they brought these statues back to compensate for the
loss of weight. The entrance brings you into the eastern court-
yard, which is dominated by the bot. To get to it, take a right
from the entrance and then take a left into the bot. There are a
total of 91 prangs and chedis that surround the bot. The lions
at the entrance of the bot are Burmese in design. On top of the
altar of the bot is a Buddha image in Ayutthayan style.
There's plenty of other sights and activities inside the large
temple complex; above all, try a massage (as described in the
Do section) or sign up for a five-day course in the massage
school at the back (see in the Learn section).
In the western courtyard, you'll quickly stumble upon the Re-
clining Buddha gold plated, 46 metres long, 15 metres high,
with inlaid mother of pearl soles. It is an impressive sight and
definitely one you must have seen on your trip. On the back
side of the statue, you can buy a bag of 50-satang coins and
plunk them one by one into the row of copper pots for good
luck.
Wat Arun (), 34 Arun-Amarin Rd, Bangkok Yai,
Thonburi (take the cross-river ferry from Tien pier), .
7:30AM-5:30PM daily. Wat Arun, often called the Temple of
Dawn, is located on the other side of the Chao Phraya river in
Thonburi, you can find more information in that district arti-
cle. It can most easily be accessed using the three-baht ferry
from Tha Tien pier at the Rattanakosin side of the river (near
Wat Pho). The temple is a distinctive large prang intricately
inlaid with Chinese white broken porcelain. At 88 meters in
height, it was also the tallest structure in Bangkok until the
advent of the modern skyscraper. It is one of Bangkok's best
known landmarks and a must-visit. 50 baht.
Wat Ratchabophit (), 2 Fuang Nakhon Rd (near
Saranrom Park), +66-2-221-1888. 5AM-8PM daily. Built by
King Rama V in 1869, it was created to keep up with the tradi-
tion that each newly-appointed monarch erected a temple
to mark his reign. The temple is a mixture of local and West-
ern styles, as the exterior of the chapel is in Thai style, but
the interior copies the regal style of European monarchies.
A major feature of this wat is the Royal Mausoleum on the
west side of the temple grounds, which includes four white
memorials in which the ashes of four Queens of King Rama
V are interred. The one for Queen Savang Vadhana, grand-

64
 Districts Rattanakosin See

mother of the current King, is the first on the left as you walk
in eastward from the road. Free.

Wat Ratchanadda (), 2 Maha Chai Rd (east of

Democracy Monument along Ratchadamnoen Klang Road,
close to the Saen Saep canal boat terminus and the Golden
Mount), +66-2-224-8807. 8AM-5PM daily. Wat Ratchanad-
da is a temple compound built by order of King Rama III
in 1846. Its main structure, Loh Prasat (, Thai for
metal castle), is easily spotted as its spires are of black iron,
not the usual glittery gold. It is in a highly unusual style: the
wat itself is a five-storied gleaming white structure with rows
of Buddhas and nice views from up top, very elegant, calm
and relaxing after the crowds at the big temples. A good
view of Bangkok is afforded from the top tier. The 37 met-
al spires signify the 37 virtues towards Enlightenment. At
night, the square around it is beautifully illuminated. Also
check out the Buddhist market at the rear of the complex,
described in the Buy section. Free.

Wat Ratchapradit (), Ra-

chini Rd (at the corner of Rachini Rd and Saranrom Rd,
north of Saranrom Park and opposite Wat Ratchabophit),
+66-2-222-0855. 8AM-6PM daily. This quiet and modest wat
is a nice get-away from the busy street and annoying tuk-
tuk drivers. This ground used to be a royal coffee planta-
tion in the reign of King Rama III. With his personal donation,
King Rama IV bought the plantation and had a small tem-
Golden Mount
ple constructed there in 1864. His intention was to make it a
Thammayut Sect temple, according to the customary prac-
tice of having three eminent temples in the capital city of the
Kingdom (the others being Wat Mahathat and Wat Ratch-
aburana). A place of interest in the temple is the royal im-
age hall (Phra Wihan Luang), which has mural paintings de-
picting royal ceremonies, including the "Legend of the Solar
Eclipse" phenomenon that occurred during the reign of King
Rama IV. There are some interesting artifacts in the temple,
including some of Rama IV's ashes that are now interred at
the base of the Buddha. Also staged here are gifts King Rama
IV got when he was installed as a monarch, such as French
floor and ceiling lamps, English street lamps and a German
clock that is still ticking today. Free.
Wat Saket and the Golden Mount (),
Boriphat Rd (follow the sign into the small alley from Bo-
riphat Rd), +66-2-233-4561. 8AM-9PM daily. Wat Saket was
built outside of the former city walls in the late 18th-century
in the reign of King Rama I. It served as the capital's cremato-
rium, and throughout the next century became the dump-
ing ground of over 60,000 plague victims who were too poor
to afford a funeral. Wat Saket's major feature is the Golden
Mount, an artificial hill dating from the early 19th-century. A
huge chedi was built on top of the hill in the reign of King Ra-
ma III, but it collapsed during the construction process as the
soil was too soft to support it. Rama V bricked in the debris
and started construction on a more modest chedi that still
exists today. He placed some relics inside the chedi, by some
believed to be the Buddha's teeth. A spiral staircase of 318
steps leads from the ground to a terrace and shrine-room
the Buddha's relics are housed in a gold-leaf-covered shrine
at the center of this area. Note that while the shrine itself is an
ancient structure that creates an atmosphere worthy of re-
spect, the area just below is more akin to a tacky fairground
than one that leads to one of the nation's most sacred sites.
Also, the harsh way of requesting the entrance fee does little
to inspire the worthy pilgrim or traveler. In short, the shrine
is definitely worth including in a travel itinerary, but do not
expect a quiet and respectful environment. In the first week

65
 Districts
of November, the mount is illumated with colored lanterns
and the compound turns into a large funfair. 10 baht.
Wat Suthat and the Giant Swing
(), 146 Bamrung Muang Rd (walk 1884, he got into a power struggle with King Rama V in an
south from Democracy Monument along Dinso Road,
as Bamrung Muang Road itself has no sidewalks),
+66-2-222-0280, . 9AM-9PM daily. This wat is becoming
more and more off the beaten path as it is quite hard to walk
here from the Grand Palace. Wat Suthat is huge and actually
one of the most important temples for the Thai people. It's
large size was needed as it was constructed in the early 19th
century to house the huge Phra Sri Sakyamuni Buddha im-
age, brought all the way down from Sukhothai by boat. The
outer wall of the cloister has more than 150 Buddha images
lined up, and as they are currently being re-gilded, they are
in various states of repair. Outside is an open courtyard with
many Chinese statues. The Giant Swing (Sao Ching Cha) is
a huge red frame on the plaza opposite the main entrance
of Wat Suthat. The swing was used in an annual ceremony
where teams of young men would try to swing high enough
to retrieve a sack of gold that was tied to a pole about 25
meters high in the air. The ceremony has been banned since
1932, as many people got injured or died trying. The swing
was fully renovated in 2007 and now looks as good as new.
20 baht.
Wat Thep Thida Ram (), Maha Chai Rd (walk and introduced the Western-style "Crown Prince of Siam" for
south along Maha Chai Road from Wat Ratchanadda and the
temple will be at the right-hand side), +66-2-222-5067.
8AM-5PM daily. The temple was built in 1836, during the
reign of King Rama III. Like other temples from the third
reign, it has a Thai layout, but is combined with a mixture of
Chinese architectural styles. The gables are decorated with
Chinese porcelain pieces and there are Chinese statues all
over the complex. Unfortunately, the temple is in desperate
need of renovation. Sunthon Phu, one of Thailand's great-
est poets, resided in this temple during his monkhood in the
early 1840s. The quarters where he spent three years of his
life are preserved at the rear of the compound, and might be
turned into a museum. In 1986, UNESCO declared Sunthon
Phu one of the world's greatest poets. Free.
Palaces
Front Palace ( Wang Na), Na Phra That Rd (between Prince Krommuen Jesadabodin. The last prince to live here
Thammasat University and the National Theatre, opposite
Sanam Luang), +66-2-215-8173, . W-Su 9AM-4PM, hols
closed. Now the central building of the National Museum,
the Front Palace used to be an enormous complex stretch-
ing from the Chao Phraya river across Sanam Luang to Lot
Canal. It was built in the 18th-century, along with the Grand
Palace. The Front Palace housed the heir to the throne, who
was appointed by the King; usually a son or brother of the
reigning monarch who bare the title "Second King" or "Vice-
King". The title of Second King started in the Ayutthaya Pe-
riod, but gained a significant amount of power during the
Rattanakosin See
Rattanakosin Period when the Second King even got its own
private army and navy. This large amount of power often led
to conflicts between the King and the Second King. The last
to bare the title of Second King was Prince Vichaichan. In
event known as the Front Palace crisis. King Rama V tried to
modernize Siam in a rapid pace, and conservative forces and
the nobility, including Prince Vichaichan, saw their power
and influence being slowly eroded. When Prince Vichaichan
got a letter threatening his life, he mobilized up to 600 of
his private troops around his palace. The King also mobi-
lized his troops, but this only underlined that the Second
King's guards were more numerous and better equipped.
After an explosion, a mysterious fire broke out in the Grand
Palace, threatening Wat Phra Kaew, and the Second King's
troops got on their way to the Grand Palace to try and ex-
tinguish it; however this was blocked by the King's Royal
Guards who feared that the fire was orchestrated by the Se-
cond King to take over the country. Afterwards King Rama V
criticized the Second King for not moving all his troops to the
Grand Palace, as an ancient custom dictated that the Second
King's troops must actively protect the King and the Grand
Palace in an emergency. King Rama V ordered his troops to
surround the Front Palace, and Prince Vichaichan fleed to
the British embassy. After mediation, the powerful Western
countries supported King Rama V, who abolished the title
the heir apparent. Prince Vichaichan died one year later. The
palace was turned into the National Museum's main build-
ing housing Thai art objects. Some walled remains of the old
Front Palace complex can be found inside the Thammasat
University complex. 200 baht.
Tha Phra Palace (), 31 Na Phra Lan Rd
(close to Chang pier, opposite the Grand Palace),
+66-2-623-6115-21, . 9AM-7PM daily. Just outside of the
Grand Palace, Wang Tha Phra Palace is now a part of Sil-
pakorn University, where many artists started their career
in the arts and humanities. In August 2010, Tha Phra Palace
celebrated its 200-year anniversary since its founding, and
many home-grown artists were invited to make a paint-
ing about it. King Rama I built the palace for his nephew
Prince Kasattiyanuchit, and since then, it has been a res-
idence of many high-ranked princes, including King King
Rama III who lived here when he still was still known as
was Prince Naris, who moved out in 1934 when the palace
was turned into an art school. The palace is a combination
of Thai and European-style buildings. Just walking around
the campus is a fun activity, as usually there are some art
projects by students going on. 50 baht gets you into the li-
brary, which has plenty of English-language books about the
Grand Palace, art, culture, religion, architecture and travel.
Also in the Wang Tha Phra compound are the Silpa Bhiras-
ri National Museum and the Art Centre Silpakorn University.
Free.
66
 Districts
Museums
Corrections Museum (), 436 Maha Chai bition about the history of the Thai nation, its culture and
Rd (in the southeastern corner of Rommaninat Park),
+66-2-226-1706. M-F 8:30AM-4:30PM, Sa-Su, hols closed, on-
ly on appointment. This used to be the location of the
Bangkok Remand Prison, an old and overcrowded prison.
Most of it has been torn down and turned into a public park,
but three blocks, a cellblock, a side of the prison wall and
two watchtowers were preserved and turned into a muse-
um. This museum displays some of the most sadistic punish-
ments imaginable, and these were actually carried out to of-
fenders not even that long ago. The museum can only be vis-
ited after making an appointment, but most of the punish-
ment instruments can be seen from the public park outside,
so you don't necessarily need to enter the museum. Free.
King Prajadhipok Museum
King Prajadhipok Museum
(, also
known as the King Rama VII Museum), 2 Lan Luang Rd (at the
foot of Phan Fa Lilat Bridge at the corner of Lan Luang Rd),
+66-2-280-3413(-4), . Tu-Su, hols, 9AM-4PM. The building
is designed by the French-Swiss architect Charles Beguelin
in 1906 in a neo-classical style that popular with King Rama
VI and King Rama VII. It was renovated by the King Prajad-
hipok Institute to serve as a museum exhibiting a rare collec-
tion of King Rama VII's personal belongings, including pho-
tographs, documents and his biography. King Rama VII ruled
in a turbulent time of Thailand's history; he was the last King
who enjoyed absolute monarchy, as well as the first King un-
der a constitutional monarchy. Significant events and stories
relating to King Rama VII are exhibited, including his succes-
sion to the throne, royal activities, political reform, promul-
gation of the constitution, royal utensils and memorabilia,
as well as his life after abdication and death in the United
Kingdom. The demolished Sala Chaloem Krung Theatre that
used to stand in the nearby area is imitated with old films
being projected. 40 baht.
Museum of Siam (), 4 Sanam Chai Rd (Tien
pier, near Wat Pho), +66-2-225-2777, . Tu-Su 10AM-6PM,
M closed. The recently renovated European-style mansion
Rattanakosin See
of the Ministry of Commerce of Thailand has been turned in
good use. It now is the Museum of Siam, a permanent exhi-
its interaction with other nations and cultures. As with all
the new museums in town, it's a so-called "discovery muse-
um", in which visitors can play and interact with the objects
shown. It is a lot fun, for children and adults alike, and in-
formative at a superficial level. First you watch a subtitled
short film about Thai-foreign interaction, with some Thai in-
side jokes about foreigners. Then you'll walk through several
historically-themed rooms, starting in prehistory and ending
in the modern age. Make sure your camera is charged and
its memory unit empty, as there are many photo opportuni-
ties. You can sit in a tuk-tuk, prepare fake Thai food, bomb
medieval armies, wear colonial-age clothing, present a news
program and sit in a 50s-style diner. 150 baht, free entry be-
tween 4PM-6PM.
National Museum ( ), Na
Phra That Rd (between Thammasat University and the Na-
tional Theatre, opposite Sanam Luang), +66-2-215-8173, .
W-Su 9AM-4PM, hols closed. The National Museum took
over the Front Palace grounds, a former royal palace built
in the 18th-century just like the Grand Palace. The grounds
are attractive in parts, but a bit sprawling and difficult to
navigate. The permanent exhibits are a mixed bag there
are some terrific new displays and dioramas on Thai history,
but many other buildings are dusty collections of artifacts
without much by way of explanation. A good way to cope
with this is by taking the free guided tour in English, held
on Wednesdays and Thursdays at 9:30AM. Allow a full after-
noon to see this one as it is fairly large. 200 baht.
Silpa Bhirasri National Museum (
), (Chang pier; inside Silpakorn University
complex), +66-2-223-6162. M-F 9AM-4PM, Sa-Su closed.
This museum is dedicated to the "father of modern art" of
Thailand, the Italian professor Corrado Feroci. He founded
Silpakorn University, the best art and humanities school of
Thailand. Many of his works are on display throughout the
city, including the Democracy Monument and the statues of
King Taksin, King Rama I and King Rama VI. This museum is
located in the building where he lived and made his designs.
Free.
Art galleries
Art Centre Silpakorn University, 31 Na Phra Lan Rd (Chang
pier; opposite the entrance of the Grand Palace),
+66-2-623-6120(-1418), . M-F 9AM-7PM, Sa 10AM4-4PM, Su
closed. The exhibitions on show here are created by art stu-
dents, teachers and university artists from Silpakorn Univer-
sity, the country's first art school. The exhibitions change of-
ten, and the only way to find out what's on is by walking in.
67
 Districts
Sometimes the art centre is closed when the building is used
for university meetings and summits. Free.
National Gallery ( ), Chao Fa to pay 1000 baht for an outer-ring seat, 1500 baht for a mid-
Rd (from Phra Chan, walk north on August 16 Road, through
the university complex, then walk under the Phra Pin Klao
Bridge and turn right into Chao Fa Road), +66-2-282-2639.
W-Su 9AM-4PM, M-Tu, hols closed. Housed in the former
Royal Thai Mint, it is fairly small and compact. Obviously a
matter of taste, the permanent displays could be described
as quite unimpressive, but the ever-changing modern art ex-
hibitions can be considerably more appealing for foreigners.
Oil paintings by the King are also exhibited here. 30 baht.
The Queen's Gallery, 101 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd (Phan Fa
Lilat pier; opposite Mahakan Fort and Wat Ratchanadda),
+66-2-281-5360(-1), . Th-Tu 10AM-7PM, W closed. This pri-
vately funded gallery was established after the request of
HM Queen Sirikit who wanted a permanent venue for the
exhibition of Thai arts. The gallery has four floors of contem-
porary and modern arts, including paintings, sculptures, au-
diovisual arts and even furniture arts, most of them created
by students. Many paintings use elements of traditional Thai
life and religion and place them in a contemporary setting.
Taking pictures without using the flash is allowed. There is
also a reading room and a cafe. 20 baht.
Do
One of the best activities in Rattanakosin is simply to walk
around and enjoy the historic sights the area has to offer. Every
corner brings something new. The Grand Palace is a good place
to start, from where you can explore the whole area on foot.
You can also hire a "Green Bangkok Bike" for free and cycle the
Rattanakosin Bicycle Route. Rental places are scattered over
the district, such as at Sanam Luang, Tien pier and beside the
tourist office under the Phra Pin Klao Bridge. Officials will take a
digital photo of your passport, after which you can pick up the
bike. You have till 5PM to complete the route. Be very careful
of traffic though, and do not leave the designated route (as it is
the only route with roads that at least resemble bicycle paths).
National Theatre, 2 Rachini Rd, +66-2-224-1342. You might
want to attend the National Theatre, where you can watch
a classical performance or traditional dance (such as a
khon dance). Don't expect an English language production
though, as most shows are set up for the locals. Don't forget
to get your hand on the program first, as it will give a synop-
sis of what the play is about. Also stand up when the nation-
al anthem begins. 50-200 baht.
Ratchadamnoen Stadium (), Ratchadam- start with the course at the same day as you register. Just
noen Nok Rd (from Wat Ratchanadda, walk north along
Ratchadamnoen Nok Road and the stadium will be at the
right side of the road after the big road intersection),
+66-2-281-4205. M, W, Th 6:30PM-10:30PM, Su 5PM-8PM
Rattanakosin Do
and 8:30PM-midnight. When the locals want entertainment,
they head to the stadium for some Thai boxing! Or Muay
Thai, as the Thais call it. It is very expensive though, expect
dle-ring seat and 2000 baht for ringside seats. Thais chip in
for 230 baht. A match includes eight fights with a maximum
of five rounds each, so make some time free in your sched-
ule. The area around the stadium has some of the best places
to get Isaan food, as television host Anthony Bourdain has
shown in his program "No Reservations". 1000-2000 baht.
Wat Po Massage, 2 Sanam Chai Rd (Tien pier),
+66-2-221-2974, . 8:30AM-6PM. A good way to combine re-
laxation and understanding Thai culture is by taking a tradi-
tional Thai massage inside the Wat Pho temple compound.
Thai massage is considered a medical discipline in Thailand,
used for the treatment of many kinds of illnesses. The mas-
sages are given in the dilapidated buildings at the east of the
northern compound. Take a two-hour Thai massage for best
results, or try a foot, oil or facial massage. 400 baht/hour.
Learn
Being the historic center of the city, Rattanakosin is great place
to learn meditation, yoga or how to give a traditional Thai mas-
sage.
The International Buddhist Meditation Centre, Wat Ma-
hathat, 3 Maharat Rd (near Chang Pier, inside section 5
of Wat Mahathat), +66-2-623-5685, . daily 7AM-10AM,
1PM-4PM, 6PM-8PM. This old temple was built in the reign
of King Rama I, right after the establishment of Rattanakosin
as the new capital of Siam. Sandwiched between Maha Rat
Road, Na Phra That Road and Silpakorn University, it hous-
es the Maha Chulalongkorn Buddhist University, one of the
two highest seats of Buddhist learning in Thailand. Most in-
teresting for foreigners are the two or three-hour Buddhist
meditation courses given three times a day. Attendance is
free of charge, but donations are welcome. It is also possible
to stay overnight and take the "intensive course". Those who
follow it must observe the eight precepts and wear white
clothes. Free.
Wat Po Thai Traditional Massage School
(), 392/25-28 Soi
Pen Phat 1 (outside of the main Wat Pho compound; from
Tien pier, take a right into Maha Rat Road, walk on and take
a right in Soi Pen Phat), +66-2-622-3550, . 8:30AM-6PM.
Here you can learn how to give a traditional Thai massage.
The basic course is quite comprehensive and lasts five days,
so make sure you have some time on your hands. You can
registering can be a pain though you'll need photocopy
of your passport and two by two inch headshots (UK pass-
port photos are not accepted as they are too small). Photos
will also be rejected if you are wearing a skimpy top or do
not look tidy. To be sure, go to a nearby Kodak shop and tell
68
 Districts Rattanakosin Buy

them the photos are for the Thai massage certificate (photo ling accessories like tents, sleeping bags and camping pots.
processing might take some hours). Really all else you need There are shops selling musical instruments nearby.
to bring is comfortable clothing body jewelery must be
Phra Chan Market, Phra Chan Rd (Phra Chan pier). The is a
taken off. The massage schools puts foreigners in a separate
small clothes market. Most t-shirts have a kind of postmod-
English-speaking classroom where the instructors have a fair
ern pop-art style, which are popular with the local art stu-
grasp of English. Prepare for an Asian style of teaching
dents. There are also women clothes, sneakers, accessories
they teach you what to do without often explaining the rea-
and the like. For food, there are simple lunch restaurants in-
sons why, however if you question them, they will tell you. It
side the pier building, where you can sit right beside the
is best to study five days consecutively, but there is scope for
Chao Phraya river for 50 baht a meal and water. These are
having a break in the middle. Lunch is provided for 30 baht
mostly used by locals, so bring a phrasebook. A small indoor
and is of good quality, but can be low on quantity if there
shopping area can be reached from Mahathat Road, where
are lots of students. The Thai massages are conducted with
you can have an American or get some iced chocolate.
you wearing all your clothes. At 8AM in the northeast corner
of Wat Pho, the massage school teaches Thai yoga. This is Rachini Night Market, Rachini Rd (near Mae Toranee Stat-
free to attend, and you do not need to pay an entrance fee ue). When dust kicks in, the night market at Rachini Road is
to get into the courtyard if you are a massage student. 8700 set up. It starts around 6PM, but only gets interesting after
baht/5 days. 8PM. The market has been at the roads surrounding Sanam
Luang for years, but was moved to its present location in
2010 when Sanam Luang was sealed off due to construc-
Buy tion work. It's a bit like a flee market as locals put a blan-
ket on the ground and wait for customers to buy their sec-
ond-hand stuff. Expect toys, dolls, pets, shoes, bags, pants,
Markets mobile phone chargers, remotes, and other junk kept at the
attic. All the sellers place lamps so it's easy to browse around.
With all the glitzy shopping malls in Siam Square, shopping in
Rattanakosin is more traditional. Like in Khao San Road, street
markets are virtually everywhere, but those in Rattanakosin are Religious markets
more authentic. Sure, plenty of tourists roam around the area,
Rattanakosin is the best place in Bangkok for buying amulets
but as most street markets are set up for the locals, a phrase-
and other religious paraphernalia. These markets are among
book might come in handy. Expect all day markets to close in
the most authentic ones, as they are meant for faithful Bud-
the early evenings.
dhist locals instead of the tourist masses.
Bobae Market, Bobae Tower, 488 Damrong Rak Rd (Bo-Be
Amulet Market, Maha Rat Rd (near the Grand Palace). If
Market pier, off Krung Kasem Road), +66-2-628-1888, .
you're on a budget, the amulet market in front of Wat Ma-
6AM-6PM daily. Bobae Market is a bit like Pratunam it's a
hathat might be a better option. Along the side of the road
huge garment market with wholesale prices! You must buy
are dozens of vendors selling amulets, and you can get one
in bulk as that gives the best deals. And just like Pratunam,
for as cheap as 5 baht! Better looking amulets cost around
it has its own Saen Saep Express Boat pier, so it's easy to get
20-100 baht, or as much as you want to spend on it.
to. The nearby Bobae Tower has 700 shops that sell the same
clothes as on the market, but caters to those looking for sin- Bamrung Muang Stores, Bamrung Muang Rd (walk east-
gle items. Prices are somewhat higher, but at least you are wards from Wat Suthat). The road along Wat Suthat has plen-
able to fit your buys in your suitcase! Not a lot of foreigners ty of stores selling religious items. Awesome human-sized
know about this place, though Russians seem to have found Buddha images are on sale here, but don't even think about
out about it (as the Russian signs indicate). bringing those on the plane! You can also get item-filled
buckets here to donate to monks. These buckets contain dai-
Carpentry and Wood Stores, Boriphat Rd (at the back entry
ly necessities monks might need, such as soap, toothpaste,
of the Golden Mount). The northern end of Boriphat Road
candles, etc. Be careful when shopping here as the road is
is lined up with carpentry and wood stores. These are very
lacking sidewalks in some areas!
skilled workers, just take a look at the detailed patterns they
create in the wooden doors! Taking one home is probably Wat Ratchanadda Buddha Center, (southeast of Wat
stretching your airline's 20 kg baggage limit though. Ratchanadda, can best be accessed from Mahachai Rd).
Probably the largest religious market of Bangkok with more
Lang Krasuang (), Atsadang Rd (behind
than one hundred stalls selling everything a good Buddhist
the Ministry of Defense and the Supreme Court). The name
would need. You can find thousands of tiny Buddha images
literally means "behind the Ministry" and refers to an area be-
here, as well as Hindu figures, in all colors, shapes and sizes.
hind the Ministry of Defense on Atsadang Road, which runs
along Lot Canal. On sale are military items such as uniforms,
territorial defense student uniforms, shoes as well as travel-

69
 Districts
Ban bat
During the alms ceremony in the morning, in which monks at
their temple receive donations of the people, the monks usu-
ally carry big bowls for receiving the donations. These bowls
are known as 'bat' and have been made by hand for centuries.
As factories took over the production of these bowls, most of
the communities that made a living of producing them have
vanished.
Eat
Thai rambutans
Compared to the profusion elsewhere in the city, it is appalling
how hard it is to find a decent place to eat after having visited
the Grand Palace. Many visitors jut grab a quick bite at one of
the carts in front of Silpakorn University. There are some cafes
at Na Phra Lan Road, but as they are mostly about sipping cof-
fee, their dishes are tiny and overpriced.
The nearby Tha Chang pier has an interesting fruit market with
pineapples, durians and bananas for sale, as well as exotic Thai
fruits you probably have never heard of before. You might
want to drink some coconut juice or try some rambutans if you
want something really exotic. If you want to have a simple meal
for 50 baht, just sit down on one of the plastic chairs in the mid-
dle of the market. It also has the only good restaurant of the
Rattanakosin Eat
area, Krua Khun Kung, which is well-hidden inside a small alley
at the ATM machines.
If you're looking for some better places to eat on the island,
walk east to the area bounded by Democracy Monument in
the north and Wat Suthat in the south. There are many small
restaurants there where the locals have lunch. Some restau-
rants have assembled around Tanao Road and Trok Nawa.
Khao San Road is just as close to the main sights though, so you
might want to grab a bite there.
Elle Tha Pra Chan, 172 Wat Maha Rat Rd (from Chang Pier,
take a left into Wat Mahathat Rd and after 100 meters it is on
the left-hand side), +66-2-623-5750. 9AM-5PM daily. This
is one of the few decent restaurants (and bakery) near the
Grand Palace. It is actually right at the Wat Mahathat Amulet
Market. It doesn't have an English sign on, but it's not that
hard to find. Menus are in English, and have pictures shown
with them, so just point to the dish of your choice. It has the
typical Thai dishes as well as some Italian pastas. Many art
students from the nearby Silpakorn University have lunch
together here, so expect it to be very crowded (and noisy)
around noon. 70 baht.
Krua Khun Kung (), 77 Maha Rat Rd (at Tha
Chang pier, walk through the small alley at the ATMs),
+66-2-222-0081, . M-F 11AM-2PM, 4PM-10PM, Sa-Su
11AM-10PM. Tucked in a small alley, this restaurant actual-
ly has a great view over the Chao Phraya river. It's best to
sit outside on the terrace, but you can also sit indoors if you
want to cool down from the heat. On the menu is seafood,
and some of the best the city has to offer. Beware; very spicy!
100-150 baht.
Mont Nom Sod (Mon Nomsot), 160/2-3 Dinso Rd (near
the Dinso Road and Soi Samran Rat intersection; op-
posite Bangkok Metropolitan Administration Building),
+66-2-224-1147. 2PM-midnight daily. This large bakery is
specialized in toasted bread with all kinds of stuff on top of it,
such as peanut butter, chocolate, yucca root or other sugary
stuff (generally the toppings are very sweet). Don't expect
any English to be spoken here as it is meant for locals and
quite off the beaten path, but you can just point to the dish-
es you want. 90 baht.
Nang Loeng Market, Nakhon Sawan Rd (between Soi 8 and
10). M-Sa 10AM-2PM. Far from the tourist's eye is the Nang
Loeng Market, a market that has been going since 1899 until
a fire destroyed it about ten years ago. It has been rebuilt
since, and is a great visit for trying some Thai sweets. There is
ample supply of sticky rice snacks or khanom bueang at the
carts, or have some egg noodles at the surrounding noodle
shops. 50 baht.
Thip Samai (Pad Thai Pratuu Phii), 313 Maha Chai Rd (walk
down Maha Chai Rd from Wat Ratchanadda, the restau-
rant is across the road from Wat Thep Thida Ram),
+66-2-221-6280. 7PM-3AM daily. Due to the lack of splurge
restaurants, street food is the big thing in Rattanakosin, and
70
 Districts
Thip Samai excels exactly at that. It's in business for longer
than 50 years and known as the best place in Thailand to get
pad thai (Thai fried noodles). You can choose between seven
different types of pad thai, the cheapest one is only 30 baht.
The best one is the 'pad thai song-kreung' with crabmeat,
cuttlefish, shrimp roe, prawns and fried egg. Wash it down
with some sliced coconut juice. 30-100 baht.
Drink
Krisa, Na Phra Lan Rd (Chang pier; from the Grand Palace,
cross the road, turn right and it will be on the left side after
100 meters), +66-2-225-2680. 10AM-6PM daily. This cafe
with an old Western-style interior is in a good place to fresh
up after a hike through the Grand Palace. Obviously you can
get coffee and tea, but an iced chocolate might be a bet-
ter choice. Also, it has air-conditioning! It is a family-run cafe
with just five tables, but that gives the place its cozy and re-
laxed atmosphere. For around 70 baht, they also serve sim-
ple Thai dishes, but don't expect big portions.
Na Phra Lan Cafe, 18 Na Phra Lan Rd (Chang pier; from
the Grand Palace, cross the road, turn right and it will be
on the left side after 100 meters), +66-2-221-2312. M-Sa
10:30AM-10.30PM, Su 10:30AM-6PM. Popular cafe among
art students from the nearby Silpakorn University. At day-
time it's a nice place for a coffee, tea or hot chocolate. Af-
ter dusk, many students come here to drink beer in large
amounts.
Rub Aroon (), 310-312 Maha Rat Rd (Tien pier; op-
posite from Wat Pho), +66-2-622-2312. 10AM-6:30PM dai-
ly. Professional looking European-style cafe, but without an
English sign. Nice place to fresh up after having visited Wat
Pho. Its front opens directly onto the street with seats on the
sidewalk. The atmosphere is relaxed and there are some sim-
ple Thai dishes on the menu.
Sleep
Rattanakosin is overflowing with sights, but finding accom-
modation is a challenge. Budget guest houses are clustered
on nearby Khao San Road, while Silom, Siam Square and
Sukhumvit have plenty of upscale hotels. Most travelers sleep
in those districts as they have lots of options for accommoda-
tion. If you insist on staying in Rattanakosin, choice is limited,
but there are some options available.
Aurum, 394/27-29 Soi Pansook (Tien pier; a sidestreet of Ma-
ha Rat Road, next to Wat Pho), +66-2-622-2248, . If you
want a more cultural stay than the hotels in Khao San Road,
this boutique hotel is an excellent alternative. River view
rooms have a very romantic view over the Chao Phraya river
and the beautiful Wat Arun temple. The top three sights can
Rattanakosin Drink
all be visited on foot. Unfortunately, the hotel doesn't have
a pool. 4000-4900 baht.
Boonsiri Place ( ), 55 Buranasart Rd (from
Ratchadamnoen Klang Road, walk south into Buranasart
Road and you'll find the hotel on the left side after 250 me-
ters), +66-2-622-2189(-91), . Just a five-minutes walk south
of Khao San Road, this hotel is hidden in the back-alleys
of Rattanakosin. The rooms are very clean, as are the bath-
rooms. Breakfast selection is adequate, but not anything
special. It conveniently has a 7-Eleven on the ground floor.
1000 baht.
Chakrabongse Villas, 396 Maha Rat Rd (close to the Museum
of Siam), +66-2-224-6686, . An absolute splurge accom-
modation, these are three private apartments in an amaz-
ing garden setting with a riverside view at Wat Arun. The vil-
las are beautifully decorated and furnished with dark wood,
silk and teak floors. Amenities include air-conditioning and
a small pool. Very expensive though. 5000-25,000 baht.
Niras Bankoc Cultural Hostel, 204-206 Maha Chai Rd (just
north of the Maha Chai Rd and Bamrung Muang Rd intersec-
tion), +66-2-221-4442, . This is a great hotel as it is close to
most attractions and to Khao San Road, while still in a quiet
folk neighborhood. Walking to the Grand Palace takes about
30 minutes over some larger roads, but you can easily hail
taxis. There are private rooms and dorm rooms with four to
six people on it. Rooms are clean and decent, and the interior
is in an interesting colonial style. The vintage coffee shop of-
fers good quality coffee and Thai tea. Free Wi-Fi is available.
1200-1890 baht, dorm 440 baht per person.
Contact
Getting online in Rattanakosin is not an easy task. There are not
a lot of Wi-Fi hotspots or Internet cafes, but as Khao San Road
is nearby, you might just want to head in that direction. The
canteen of Thammasat University has an open WiFi signal, but
connection quality varies. Niras Bankoc Cultural Hostel is a nice
place for sipping coffee, and also has free Wi-Fi available for its
customers.
If you want to send mail, there is a post office close to the Grand
Palace in the middle of Na Phra Lan Road.
Get out
Rattanakosin has Bangkok's principal tourist sights, but the sur-
rounding districts offer plenty of activities, stores, restaurants
and nightlife.
Wat Arun, at the other side of the river in Thonburi, is a
stunning temple decorated with leftovers from broken Chi-
71
 Districts Rattanakosin Get out

nese ceramics. It is often visited together with Wat Pho, from

where you can take the 3-baht ferry ride across the river.

Don't throw away your entry ticket to the Grand Palace! Use
it to get a free entry into the leafy Dusit Palace in Dusit
(valid for a week). Its prime sight is the Vimanmek Palace, but
you could spend your whole day there if you wish. It is 15
minutes by bus 70 from Ratchadamnoen Klang Road (near
Democracy Monument).

Just across a small canal in the Phahurat district is Pak Khlong

Talat, a surprisingly fun flower market. It's best visited in the
very early morning, when new flower batches arrive and the
whole market is beautifully illuminated.

72
 Districts
KHAO SAN ROAD
Understand
The word khao san itself means milled rice and is an attribution
to the historical role of this street in the rice trade. The first busi-
ness to open on Khao San Road was a small hotel aimed at serv-
ing civil servants from the provinces who came to Bangkok on
business. The hotel was followed by Sor Thambhakdi, a shop
selling monks' accessories. Four similar businesses moved in af-
ter, and Khao San became known as a "religious road".
Word soon spread about the easy lifestyle and friendliness of
the locals. Friends told friends, and before long, the owner of
the house started to charge 20 baht for food and lodging. The
first commercial guest house, called Bonny, opened in 1982
with six small bedrooms.
Today, there's a lot more than six small bedrooms on offer. In
the span of just a couple of blocks, there are bars, food stalls,
restaurants, convenience stores, pharmacies, internet cafes,
money changing booths, ATMs, shoe stores, massage parlors,
tailors, travel agencies, laundry, boxing gyms, optometrists,
endless warrens of suspiciously discounted designer clothes
and, oh, rooms for the night.
The chaos has spilled over to the entire area, including Soi Ram-
buttri, which features little bars and restaurants that are start-
ing to spill out onto the sidewalk; Phra Athit Road, with its colo-
nial-style mansions and riverside hotels; and Sam Sen Road, a
quiet neighborhood with cozy guest houses and vegetarian
restaurants. It is indeed a tourist destination, although it is al-
so a little unsafe at night and instances of mugging and pick-
pocketing do occur.
Bangkok Tourist Information Office, 17/1 Phra Athit Rd (un-
der the Pinklao Bridge), +66-2-225-7612(-4), . It's a good
idea to stop by the tourist office for some maps of the city.
You can also get hotel and dining addresses here or ask any
other questions you may have.
Khao San Road Understand
Get in
Map of the Khao San Road area
Khao San Road is fairly easy to get to from anywhere in
Bangkok. Express boats, buses and taxis are your main options.
While the Skytrain and the metro are convenient ways of get-
ting to many places in Bangkok, there is no connection to Khao
San Road (or to anywhere else in Rattanakosin, for that matter).
By boat
The Chao Phraya Express Boat is the cheapest and most scenic
way of getting to Khao San Road. If you're coming from down-
town, take the Skytrain to Saphan Taksin station, where you
can transfer onto the express boat at Sathorn (Taksin) pier.
Then ride the express boat all the way north to Phra Arthit pier,
which takes about 35 minutes and costs 13 to 18 baht. Make
sure to get either the orange flag line or the blue flag tourist
boat, as the yellow flag line skips Phra Arthit pier completely.
If you're staying in Khao San Road, the express boat is the eas-
iest way to get to Rattanakosin and Silom. It's only a short (but
confusing) walk from Khao San Road to Phra Arthit pier. First
walk to the police station side of Khao San Road, then take a
right and immediately a left into Soi Rambuttri. Walk along the
bend of the street and take a right into Soi Chana Songkhram.
At the end, take a right into Phra Athit Road, cross the road,
and look for the small sign to the express boat pier (it is near
Navalai River Resort). Bring a good map, have a good sense of
direction, or ask help from a local if you get lost.
The most important piers are Tha Chang (for the Grand Palace),
Tha Tien (for Wat Pho) and Rachawongse (for Yaowarat). All
lines attend Sathorn (Taksin) pier, where you can transfer on-
to the Skytrain. From here, you can go to Silom, Siam Square,
Sukhumvit and Phahonyothin. The Chao Phraya Express Boat
stops running around 6PM or 7PM depending on the day, so
you'll have to rely on other forms of transport in the evening.
The quickest (though not the most comfortable) way to
get from Khao San Road to Siam Square, Sukhumvit and
Ramkhamhaeng is by Saen Saep Express Boat. The closest pier
to Khao San Road is Panfa Leelard, which is near the Golden
73
 Districts
Mount and Wat Ratchanadda. There you can get on the Golden
Mount Line, which is a direct boat service from Panfa Leelard
to Pratunam. At that pier you can switch onto the NIDA Line,
that runs from Pratunam all the way northeast to Wat Sriboon-
reung in Ramkhamhaeng. A single trip from Panfa Leelard to
Pratunam takes about 20 minutes and costs 11 baht. On the
trip, you will pass the stops Talat Bobae (for the garment mar-
ket of the same name), Sapan Charoenpol, Baan Krua Nua (for
Jim Thompson's House), Sapan Hua Chang (for Siam Square)
and Pratunam (for Pratunam and Ratchaprasong).
By bus
The bus system in Bangkok is very complex, but as Khao San
Road is not connected to the Skytrain, for some destinations
you don't have a choice. Some useful bus lines for travel to/
from Khao San Road include the following:
Ordinary bus 2 goes from Sukhumvit Road to Sanam Luang,
and passes Ratchdamnoen Klang Road on the way, which is
very close to Khao San Road. The route is handy for connec-
tions to the Skytrain, the metro and the Eastern Bus Terminal
(Ekkamai), and it passes Pratunam on the way. 6-7 baht.
Ordinary and air-conditioned bus 3 goes to the Northern Bus
Terminal (Mo Chit) and passes by Chakrabongse Road (at the
western side of Khao San Road). The trip costs 7 baht and
takes approximately 30 minutes.
Ordinary bus 15 takes you from Ratchadamnoen Klang Road
(near Khao San Road) to Siam Square.
Ordinary bus 53 goes from Phra Athit Road near the ex-
press boat pier to Hualamphong Train Station, taking an in-
teresting and convoluted route through Rattanakosin and
Yaowarat. It costs 7 baht and takes 30 minutes or more de-
pending on traffic.
Air-conditioned bus 511 travels right across the city from
the Eastern Bus Terminal (Ekkamai) via Sukhumvit and
Ratchadamnoen Klang Road (near Khao San Road) to the
Southern Bus Terminal (Sai Tai). Warning: Ordinary (non-ex-
press) buses pass by Ratchdamnoen Klang Road, but express
buses (with yellow signs) do not!
Air-conditioned bus 509 travels from Mor Chit Bus Terminal,
passing through Victory Monument (BTS) and Ratchadam-
noen Klang Road (near Khao San Road), terminating at Bang
Khae (in Thonburi).
The Airport Express bus, including backpacker favorite AE2 to
Khao San Road, stopped running in June 2011. Another, even
cheaper (although more fiddly) option is to use a local bus to
get to Khao San Road. From the airport, catch the shuttle bus
for free outside door 5 (on both the upper and lower floors)
to the Public Transport Interchange. From there, catch bus 556
(33 baht) which will drop you off about halfway between Khao
San Road and the Democracy Monument. To get to the airport,
catch bus 556 (again 33 baht), which departs from Ratchadam-
noen Klang Road, about halfway between Khao San Road and
the Democracy Monument (look for the half-torn airplane sign
on the bus stop sign). It will drop you off at the Public Transport
Khao San Road See
Interchange, where you can catch a free shuttle bus to the ter-
minal. This bus may be local, but often it is just as fast as the
tourist bus used to be.
By taxi
Even some of the metered taxis will try to charge you a flat rate
of about 200-300 baht to take you to Khao San Road, rather
than use the meter (which would mean no more than an 80
baht fare from Silom, or 100-150 baht from Sukhumvit). The
drivers will claim that Khao San Road is "too far away" for the
meter, but that's not true; the fact is, they can get away with
overcharging tourists, and if you don't take it, the next schmuck
down the street might. You should refuse to pay that amount
and find an honest driver there is no shortage of taxis in
Bangkok. There is no point trying to haggle, as the meter is al-
ways cheaper.
See
Although there aren't any famous historical sites to speak of
on the road itself, Khao San is a part of Rattanakosin and ac-
tually one of the oldest neighborhoods of Bangkok. Around
the street, there are a number of old shophouses and note-
worthy temples. Aside from the interesting architecture, the
area shows a mix of peoples and heritages that is typical for
Bangkok. There are Buddhists, Chinese, Muslims, Mons, and of
course a great number of foreigners in this small part of the
city. All of this makes the area an interesting place for a glimpse
of Thai life.
Democracy Monument
Democracy Monument ( Anu-
sawari Prachathipatai), Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd (at the
Ratchadamnoen Klang Road and Dinso Road intersection).
Completely occupying a roundabout on a major thorough-
fare is the Democracy Monument. Its distinguishing features
are the four 'wings' which are located at four equally spaced
points around a smaller central shrine. The wings are dec-
orated with artworks of war and war-related events. Quite
impressive when seen from a distance (especially at sunrise
and sunset), but maybe not worth the hazard involved in
74
 Districts Khao San Road See

running across five lanes of Bangkok traffic for a closer look.

It commemorates the June 1932 military coup d'etat that led
to the country's first democratic constitution in place of ab-
solute rule. Demonstrators gathered here in 1973, 1976 and
1992 in their struggle for democracy, signifying the impor-
tant role this monument has played in recent Thai history.
Free.

October 14 Memorial ( 14 ), 14/16

Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd (at the Ratchadamnoen Klang
Road and Tanao Road intersection). 14 October 1973 is one
of the most important dates in modern Thai history. Millions
of pro-democracy protesters gathered at Ratchadamnoen
Klang Road against the military dictatorship of Thanom Kit-
tikachorn. The junta attacked the masses with snipers from
rooftops killing dozens of civilians. Eventually the regime
was toppled and Thailand became a constitutional monar-
chy. This memorial commemorates those who died that day,
as well as those that died at similar protests in 1976 and
1992. You can read more about this hectic period in Thai his-
tory in the small museum. Free.

Phra Sumen Fort (), Phra Athit Rd (inside

Santichaiprakarn Park). Best viewed from Santichaiprakarn
Park, Phra Sumen Fort is one of two remaining towers of
the historic city wall that once surrounded Rattanakosin Is-
land completely (the other being Mahakan Fort). The historic
city wall that followed the Chao Phraya River and Khlong
Wat Bowonniwet
Rop Krung used to have fourteen of these watchtowers, but
twelve of them have not endured the test of time. Phra Su- Wat Bowonniwet (), Bowonniwet Rd (at the
men Fort was constructed in 1783 during the reign of King corner of Bowonniwet Road and Phra Sumen Road),
Rama I to protect the city from potential foreign naval inva- +66-2-281-2831(-3). 8AM-5PM daily. Built in 1829, this is the
sions. The fort has an observation tower and two levels of shrine-hall of Phra Phutthachinnasi, a very beautiful Buddha
battlements with its original canons still in place. Free. image that was created around 1357. This is one of the most
important temples of Bangkok, whose one-time chief abbot
Santichaiprakarn Park
was King Rama IV before he ascended the throne. King Rama
(), Phra Athit Rd
IV and King Rama VII, as well as HM King Bhumibol Adulyadej
(near Phra Arthit pier). 5AM-10PM daily. This small, green
resided here during their monkhood. Be careful in the after-
park has a great view of the Chao Phraya River and the
noon, you must take your shoes off, but the ground can start
ultra-modern Rama VIII suspension bridge that crosses it.
to cook from the heat. Wearing socks could be a good idea.
There's an open-air pavilion, the Phra Sumen Fort and (sup-
Free.
posedly) the last two lamphu trees of the area (these trees
used to be all over Banglamphu, as that's where the district Wat Chana Songkhram (, also known as War
got its name from). Activities held in the park include Thai Victory Temple), Soi Chana Songkhram (opposite the west-
classical music, juggling and (at 6PM) aerobic exercises. The ern end of Khao San Road). Centuries ago, following a war
park has also become a gathering place for breakdancers to with the Burmese, the Thai government gave land in this
exchange their techniques. Free. area to people from the Mon minority who had fought be-
side the Thai. The Mon established a community here, in-
Sunset Street Art Gallery (), 199 Khao San Rd
cluding this temple. Many travelers use the temple grounds
(inside the Sunset Street complex), +66-2-282-2565(-4), .
as a shortcut between Khao San Road and Phra Athit Road
12AM-10PM daily. Yes, there is one sight on Khao San Road
where the ferry pier is located. The temple is worth a visit,
itself and unsurprisingly, it is an art gallery. This colonial-style
though, with nice murals, crisp sounding temple bells hang-
interior has plenty of paintings on the wall, most of them in
ing from the eves, Bougainvillea vines and beautiful trees.
a kind of traditional Thai-style. It is quite small, but still fun
There is no charge for admission and you are welcome to
for a short visit. Free.
pay respect to the Buddha images or just find a little tran-
quility away from the throngs of backpackers on Khao San
proper. Free.

75
 Districts
Do
Activities on Khao San Road are not particularly high class.
Many backpackers just chill out in a cafe and watch reruns of
Friends while sipping a cold Chang beer. People-watching is al-
so a major activity; this can be done in many roadside bars and
pubs along Khao San Road. When all this becomes too stress-
ful, there are plenty of massage parlors around.
Learn
May Kaidee's 2 Cooking School, 33 Sam Sen Rd (near the
intersection with Sam Sen Soi 1), +66-8-9137-3173, .
9AM-1PM, 1PM-5PM daily. A vegetarian and vegan cooking
school in the Sam Sen area north of Khao San Road. You'll
shop at the local market to pick fresh ingredients and learn
meat-free traditional Thai recipes (as well as unique food
such as the delicious pumpkin hummous). The owner has
been an experienced vegan cook for many years and has a
recipe book available for purchase. Those interested need to
give at least a day or so advance notice (if lucky, you can just
try to show up at the morning session and they might let you
in). The school also has a restaurant with many vegetarian
dishes and as a guest house attached to it. 1200 baht/day.
Sor. Vorapin Gym Muay Thai School, 13 Trok Kasap (at the
end of a dusty alley off Soi Rambuttri), +66-2-282-3551, .
7:30AM-9:30AM and 3PM-5PM daily. If you dare, you might
want to learn muay thai (Thai boxing). Beginners and walk-
ins are welcome. Shorts and gloves are provided at the
course. The English instruction may not be too detailed, but
key phrases like "punch", "kick", and "one-two" are in place.
Wear protection though! If this all gets a bit too heavy for
you, it's also possible to sit outside and watch the train-
ings take place. Saves you 1000 baht on an actual muay thai
match! 400 baht.
Khao San Road Do
Buy
Banglamphu Market
Obviously the first place to go shopping is Khao San Road it-
self. Beside the usual tourist crowd, plenty of locals come here
for shopping as well. Simple stores line up the street selling
dresses, shirts, skirts, accessories, shoes and bags, usually for
a bargain. Many of these are in vintage style, as that's popular
among the Khao San crowd. There are also the usual souvenir
and handicrafts stores.
Hill tribe women dressed in ethnic clothing walk up and down
Khao San Road all day, usually with croaking sounds that come
from their ornamental frogs. They approach tourists all day, try-
ing to sell them stuff like accessories, hammocks and ethnic
handicrafts. They are quite friendly, and back off with a clear
"no", but once they know you're interested, many of these sell-
ers congregate around you hoping to make some profit.
Always beware of getting ripped off. Never buy anything valu-
able in this area as there are many scams and tricks being
played. Khao San Road is home to many wholesale silver jewel-
ry stores, but don't even think about buying there. A common
scam is to ask a lot more for a gem than its real value. Touts for
suits approach all men walking along Khao San Road, but nev-
er go with them getting tailored clothes in Khao San Road
is a complete waste of money as quality is extremely poor. If
you really want a suit, head to downtown for better alternatives
(see Silom for more information).
Other problematic products for sale include counterfeit
clothes, pirated movies and even fake diplomas; the authorities
here don't seem to care, but you probably will get in trouble
once you arrive in your home country. The Banglamphu Mar-
ket north of Khao San Road is a good place to pick up cheap
Thai knock-offs of everything, from jeans to Italian sneakers, as
well as a few posh Thai silk stores. Food stalls are also abound
in this area.
76
 Districts
Books
As plenty of travelers use Khao San Road as their base on the
way to the beaches, most of Bangkok's second hand book
stores have congregated in this area. Expect dusty stores with
books completely worn out but usually prices are remark-
ably cheaper than elsewhere. Some of the newer book stores
around have a fresher appearance and even sell new books. On
the market are the usual English fiction titles, including back-
packer favorites like The Beach. If you're into a non-fiction, get
one of the titles on Southeast Asian history and culture.
Eat
Khao San Road offers some of the cheapest and most diverse
food selections anywhere in Bangkok. Travelers from all over
the world attend the road, so there is a high demand for all
kinds of ethnic food. Alongside the usual Thai dishes, Indian,
Italian and Jewish cuisine are especially well-represented, as
are restaurants specialized in vegetarian food.
Street carts on the road sell decent pad thai (fried noodles),
quail eggs, roti (like a pancake), falafel, hummus, various bugs
and some sell just cocktails. However, it's worth noting that
much of it is specifically geared for backpackers even the
local pad thai, especially the 10 baht variety, saves money on
the ingredients and uses soy sauce instead of the traditional
tamarind sauce.
As Khao San Road leaves its backpacker roots, standards (and
prices) are rising. In the last ten years, many popular interna-
tional food outlets have set up branches in Khao San Road, in-
cluding Burger King, McDonald's and Subway. More mid-range
restaurants are opened on a daily basis, but don't expect to
splurge. Those looking for truly good food would be advised
to head elsewhere, such as to Sukhumvit.
Drink
Cafes
You might like a freshly brewed coffee in the early morning, or
some coconut juice or iced chocolate to cool you down in the
hot afternoon. There are plenty of cafes serving these on Khao
San Road; Coffee World is across from McDonald's in Buddy's
Shopping Plaza and there is a Starbucks in a nice converted
house inside the Sunset Street alley in the middle of the road.
Go to Phra Athit Road for a more sophisticated way of getting
some caffeine. It is home to many colonial-style townhouses
and shophouses that have been turned into artsy cafes and
restaurants.
Coffee and More, 102/1 Phra Athit Rd (at the ground floor
of Baan Phra Athit), +66-2-280-7887. M-F 10AM-9:30PM,
Khao San Road Eat
Sa-Su 11AM-11PM. A pleasant cafe overlooking a garden; it
is modern, but with a cozy decor. They have a wide selec-
tion of coffees, teas and great cakes. Breakfast options lim-
ited though. Especially popular with young up-and-coming
Thais.
Ricky's Coffee Shop ( ), 22 Phra Athit
Rd (in the same complex as New Merry V Guesthouse),
+66-2-846-3011. 8AM-10PM daily. There are a number of
Ricky's Coffee Shops, but this is the original one at Phra Athit
Road. It is a nice place to relax with a cup of coffee (or a
cold afternoon beer). They also have Western and Thai dish-
es, and while they seem simple, they taste really good (try
the rice with cashew nuts!). You can also try one of their de-
licious sandwiches. Its interior is impressive, a bit like an old
Chinese-style tea house.
Bars and pubs
Khao San Road has some of the cheapest bars in town, and
these days even Thais head down to knock back a few. Khao
San bars are mostly about relaxing just sitting outside, look-
ing at people and enjoying the atmosphere. Some just walk
around with a beer in their hand; a can of Chang beer is 25 baht
at 7-Eleven. Worth a look are a few street side VW vans convert-
ed to mobile bars, serving cocktails made from cheap liquor.
The tourist crowd has spread to both Soi Rambuttri and Ram-
buttri Road in the north. Both of them have a relaxed pace great
for people-watching. The bars have many seats lined up along
the sidewalk, and the music is slightly toned down for casual
conversation. If you want to go where the locals go, there are
some artsy/indie bars at Phra Athit Road and Ratchadamnoen
Klang Road popular with local art students.
999 West (formerly Susie Pub), 108/5-6 Rambuttri Rd (in
the alley known as Susie Walking Street), +66-2-282-4459.
11AM-2AM daily. The pub that started it all, when it still had
its old name Susie Pub. It is big and dark, usually packed, and
playing pop music. It is very popular among Thai locals. The
owners of the pub have branched out to owning Austin Pub,
Tom Yum Kung and The Club. Don't forget your ID as it is
sometimes checked upon entry.
Adhere the 13th, 13 Sam Sen Rd (walk north along
Chakrabongse Road, cross the bridge and you will find the
bar at your left-hand side), +66-8-9769-4613. 6PM-mid-
night daily. Adhere the 13th is one of those typical small
blues bars that is all about the music. There is always a band
playing on the live stage, so visiting this one is an absolute
must if you're into blues. But even for those who are not that
much into it, the intimate atmosphere and tight spaces are
an interesting experience for everyone. It's all about listen-
ing, and customers even tone their voice to actually hear and
appreciate the music.
Bangkok Bar ( ), Rambuttri Rd (next to Suksabai
Bar), +66-2-629-4443. 6PM-1AM daily. This popular pub
moved eastwards in 2009, from Soi Rambuttri to the middle
77
 Districts
of Rambuttri Road. The bar can get very crowded on Fridays
and Saturdays. Not just foreigners know about this place,
there are many Thai locals who visit it as well. A Chang beer is
70 baht, but the locals seem to be drinking bottles of scotch
(or cocktails).
Center Khao Sarn ( ), 80-84 Khao San Molly Bar, 108 Rambuttri Rd (on the road that runs par-
Rd (in the middle of Khao San Road's south side),
+66-2-282-4366. Open 24 hours. Easily the best spot for peo-
ple-watching on Khao San Road. It's probably the largest
venue, in the middle of the street, with its seats right beside
the road; and it's always open. It's a great place to chat, sip a
beer and lose track of time. There's also a pool table and sim-
ple dishes are served. And if you run out of money, there's
an ATM at both sides of the bar.
Gulliver's Traveler's Tavern (
), 2/2 Khao San Rd (at the corner of Khao San Road Mulligans Irish Bar ( ), 2F, Buddy's Shop-
and Chakrabongse Road), +66-2-629-1988, . 11AM-1AM
daily. Nowadays one might associate this kind of bar more
with Sukhumvit, however this is actually the first Gulliver's
and it is right at Khao San Road. It is a sports pub with bil-
liards, and being well-known among the backpacker com-
munity, this is a place to swap stories. Beer is at rather steep
prices for Khao San though, around 150 baht a pint. They
also offer some mid-range priced Western food. The atmos-
phere is quite relaxed at daytime, while it gradually turns in-
to a rather wild dance party as the night wears on.
Hippie de Bar, 46 Khao San Rd (follow the Tom Yum Kung
neon sign), +66-1-820-3762. 11AM-1AM daily. Psychedel-
ic interior with mismatched furniture, but not really hippie
style. Outside is a nice place to chill with a beer or cocktail.
It's a bit off the main street, so no noise from there, but the
reggae and tropical music are a bit too loud for a casual con-
versation.
Drinking cart at Khao San Road
Jazz Happens!, 2F, Bar Bali Pub and Restaurant Bldg, 58 Phra
Athit Rd (take a left after coming from Soi Chana Songkhram
and cross the street), +66-2-282-9934. 6PM-midnight dai-
ly. Some good live jazz played by Thai jazz students along
with their professor. It is a collaboration with Silpakorn
Khao San Road Drink
University's "Faculty of Jazz". Very popular among the locals,
but foreigners do not seem to know about it. It has recent-
ly enlarged and now has two live music stages, one upstairs
and one downstairs. It's best to come around 9PM as that's
when the night really starts to kick in.
allel to Khao San Road in the north), +66-2-629-4074.
1PM-1AM daily. There's a really relaxed vibe in this colo-
nial-style bar, that has been around for quite some time now.
In the evening, there is a band playing in the corner; don't
expect a quality band, but the live music does give this bar
its laid-back feel. There are lots of seats outside, so it is a nice
alternative for people-watching along Khao San Road. And
there's a lot to see, as a diverse group of customers attend,
including locals.
ping Plaza, 265 Khao San Rd (inside the Buddy Shopping
Plaza), +66-2-629-4477, . Open 24 hours. Opened in 2009,
this Irish pub has a daily promotion between 8PM and 2AM,
when a large beer or a cocktail sets you back 110 baht. The
area downstairs is relaxed, and right beside the road, so a
great place for talking and people-spotting. There is no mu-
sic downstairs, but the atmosphere is still good as soft music
comes from the other side of the street. Upstairs is a large
Irish pub. There are often live performances there or you can
just play the arcades.
Reggae Bar, Trok Mayom (where Trok Mayom meets Dam-
noen Klang Nuea Road), . 3PM-1AM daily. Nice relaxing al
fresco atmosphere where you can get a cold beer and some
smokes while listening to Bob Marley all day. DJ Chicken per-
forms, so you're in for a good night. You can also just watch
football at the big screen or play some pool. At daytime on-
ly the small street side front of the bar opens, so you might
want to kick in after dinner.
Sabai Bar, 197 Khao San Rd (at the mouth of the Sunset Street
complex), +66-2-282-5893, . 8AM-2AM daily. This Thai and
Western bar and restaurant offers a good view on the road.
Its interior looks modern and there are many black and white
cushions you can sit on. It's a relaxing place to just sit, relax
and knock back a few beers or cocktails.
Sawasdee House ( ), 147 Soi Rambuttri (at
the corner of Soi Rambuttri and Chakrabongse Road),
+66-2-281-8138, . Open 24 hours. Another people-watching
spot, this time along Soi Rambuttri. While talking is possible,
it is a challenge as the music is very loud. It is only the loud
music that makes it into a kind of combination between a
sidewalk cafe and a pub. The interior looks nice, with tradi-
tional Thai elements all around. They have plenty of beers
and cocktails for sale, as well as simple Thai dishes to go with
them.
Silk Bar ( ), 129-131 Khao San
Road (in the middle of Khao San Road), +66-2-281-9981, .
6AM-1AM daily. Every day after dusk, this place starts to get
78
 Districts Khao San Road Sleep

packed with customers who want to have fun till the early Nightclubs
night. It is touted as having the best view on the road, but
this is not entirely the case. The bar's location inside a small
alley makes it harder to see the road, although the balcony
still does a decent job. There is a DJ playing in the evenings,
and the music is at a good level, allowing you to talk with
other people. They also serve simple Thai dishes.

Suksabai ( ), 96 Rambuttri Rd (opposite

Viengtai Hotel), +66-2-629-0298. Open 24 hours. Suksabai
is touted as a restaurant, and they have a large menu with
Thai, grill and Italian dishes in the 80-130 baht price range.
While decent for budget travelers, the real attraction of this
place is its sidewalk bar. Seats are lined up onto the main
road every night, which makes it is a good place to hang out,
talk and watch football on the big screens. Beer and cock-
tails here are slightly cheaper than on Khao San Road; a large
Chang beer goes for 80 baht. It's best to only go inside for
ID-check at Brick Bar
the toilet, as its interior is rather uninspiring and messy.
Bangkok's nightlife has a hard time living up to its notorious
Sunset Bar and Garden Restaurant ( ),
reputation and Khao San Road is no different. While many
199 Khao San Rd (at the back of the Sunset Street complex),
sidewalk cafes are open 24 hours, nightclubs close early at
+66-2-282-5823, . 8AM-2AM daily. More upclass than the
1AM. The only exception to this rule seems to be Gazebo Club,
other bar/restaurants around Khao San Road, it is in a little
so many of the Khao San vagabonds go there when the rest
courtyard away from the road, which makes it a nice place to
of the bunch closes down. You can also hail a cab and go to
escape from the chaos. The courtyard and the building is in a
downtown, as more nightclubs there stay open until the ear-
nice European Mediterranean-style, and they have the usual
ly hours. Always bring your passport as all nightclubs are re-
coffee and beer. It is also a good place to eat, with some mid-
quired to check it at entry.
ranged Thai and international cuisine on offer. There are live
music performances from Thursdays to Sundays.

Tak Sura (), 156/1 Tanao Rd (walk south along Tanao Sleep
Rd from Ratchadamnoen Klang Road; it will be at the right af-
ter about 200 meters, and you have to walk through a small
alley first; there's only a Thai sign up), +66-2-622-0708.
6PM-1AM daily. While the locals at first weren't interested in
the dingy foreigner ghetto known as Khao San Road, over
time it has gained status among Bangkok's indie and artsy
types as the place to hang out. Tak Sura is one of those places
where the locals go most of them art students from Sil-
pakorn University. The place is located in a mansion that's
easily one hundred years old; but most people just sit out-
side on the white patio furniture.
Khao San Road is Bangkok's main backpacker drag. Cheap new
guest houses spring up and disappear on a monthly basis,
therefore accommodation is hard to recommend, but there is
always something available for a small budget. As hipsters and
upper class folks have been starting to discover the road, it is
more and more becoming an area that has accommodations
for every price class.
Before checking into an unfamiliar place, always ask to see a
room first, and don't be afraid to test the fan or the air-condi-
tioning if you think you will need it. Some Khao San Road guest
houses do not accept Thai guests, or any extra guests at all in
some cases.

79
 Districts Khao San Road Sleep

Budget Road. Some rooms are cleaner than others, so inspect before
checking in. There's a wide range of rooms, including single,
double and triple rooms with either fan or air-conditioning.
Beside a guest house, it is also a restaurant, travel agency
and internet cafe. 410-590 baht.

K.S. House ( ), 133 Phra Sumen Rd (next to Si-

am Commercial Bank), +66-2-629-1763, . Another bud-
get guest house that offers 55 standard rooms with either
a fan or air-conditioning. They have a great cafe/restaurant
with nice food set on a rooftop. Breakfast not included even
though the website says so. Also, the free WiFi does not
reach most rooms. They do have internet terminals in the
lobby, but you have to pay a fee to use them. 350-520 baht.

Lamphu House ( ), 75 Soi Rambuttri (in the mid-

dle of Soi Rambuttri), +66-2-629-5861(-2), . Lamphu House
is a resort-style guest house. Even its cheapest rooms have
Typical upper budget room for the area bamboo beds and rattan lamps, giving it a modern and airy
feel. Cheap rooms only have a fan, shared bathrooms and
Most backpackers head straight for Khao San Road as it has
no windows, while the more expensive rooms have air-con-
by far the cheapest accommodation in all of Bangkok. Don't
ditioning, ensuite and balconies overlooking the courtyard.
have high hopes on luxury if you're staying here; most of these
A big plus is that you can store your backpack here for about
places are dark, dingy, unclean and if you're unlucky, you might
10 baht a day. You don't need to be a hotel guest to use this
have to spend the night with bedbugs. Also keep in mind that
service. 400-980 baht.
anything on Khao San Road itself will be loud, and anything
with exterior windows will get hot. Live Good Guesthouse, 81/2 Soi Bowonrangsi, Tanao Rd (in
the alley behind Burger King; immediately next to New Cen-
Try walking a block or two off Khao San proper to find some-
tral Guesthouse), +66-2-282-5092. A basic and clean guest
thing a little quieter. Soi Rambuttri, the small street past the
house. Rooms with shared bathrooms are small and spartan,
police station, has reasonable guest houses, though can still be
and there are no power outlets. There are different kinds of
loud in the evenings. The street gets darker and quieter as it
rooms, the double fan room goes for 200 baht. There are in-
wraps around the temple grounds of Wat Chana Songkhram,
ternet, restaurant and laundry services available downstairs.
where you can find some quiet guest houses. Sam Sen Road
100-300 baht.
and the surrounding area is another escape from the noise and
chaos, with some cheap guest houses at a further distance of NapPark Hostel, 5 Tani Rd (near the Tani Road and
the action. Chakrabongse Road intersection), +66-2-282-2324, . Ab-
solutely great place to stay for backpackers as it has a Thai-
Bella Bella House ( ), 74 Soi Chana
style homey decoration with Thai cushions and garden sur-
Songkhram (next to the 7-Eleven), +66-2-629-3090(-1).
roundings. Rooms are dorms, but the bathrooms are among
This budget guest house has 25 clean and new, if somewhat
the cleanest of Khao San Road and there is free high-speed
spartan rooms. Not the most exciting rooms, but they get
WiFi throughout the building. The English-speaking staff are
the job done. There's no elevator, so take a lower floor room
really nice and ready to help you 24 hours a day. You can
if you're lazy, though the upper floor rooms have a nice view
chill out at their chic and cozy coffee bar. 570-750 baht per
at the rooftops of Wat Chana Songkhram. Internet access,
person. (N13 41.576,E100 35.970)
food and beer are all available in the medium-sized restau-
rant downstairs. 250-550 baht. New Central Guest House, 81/1 Soi Bowonrangsi, Tanao Rd
(in the alley behind Burger King), +66-2-282-0667. This is a
D&D Inn ( ), 68-70 Khao San Rd (at the po-
very basic guest house with small rooms, but it is very cheap
lice station side of Khao San Road), +66 6290 5268, . A
too (and close to Khao San Road). They have no facilities, ex-
huge hotel (by Khao San Road standards) with a roof-top
cept for the free WiFi hotspot that is fast and works from in-
swimming pool, massage facilities, and a very clean and ef-
side the room. Toilets can be broken, and then need a buck-
ficient 24 hour internet cafe. All rooms have attached bath-
et to flush. Showers work fine though. The doors are locked
rooms, air-conditioning, TV, and rates include breakfast and
at night, so knock hard to wake up the owner and he can let
use of the pool. They do not allow check-in until after 1PM.
you in. 100-300 baht.
750-1100 baht.
New Joe Guest House ( ), 81 Trok Mayom
Green House (), 84 Rambuttri Rd (right next to
(in the middle of Trok Mayom), +66-2-281-2948, . It's a ba-
Merry V Guesthouse), +66-8-6617-7717, . A simple and
sic guest house with small and simple rooms, but at least
functional guest house with 80 rooms close to Khao San

80
 Districts
they are fairly clean. Try this place if you're just looking for a
cheap place to sleep. It has a nice cafe/restaurant attached
to it. They have nice Thai and Western food, such as pizzas,
and it is set in a garden environment. 350-550 baht.
New Merry V Guesthouse ( ), left into Trok Rong Mai), +66-2-629-2340, . This hotel has
18-20 Phra Athit Rd, +66-629-0462. A good low budget op-
tion for the budget conscious traveler. Its aging rooms are
divided into fan, air-conditioned and "deluxe" rooms, the lat-
ter are more expensive, have a TV and don't face the busy
street. Don't confuse this one with the other Merry V, which
is in the middle of Soi Rambuttri. 200-550 baht.
New Siam II ( 2), 50 Trok Rong Mai (in Trok 400-680 baht.
Rong Mai, right around the corner from Soi Rambuttri),
+66-2-281-7461, . One of the best hotels in the Soi Rambuttri
area. It is just enough off the main drag to be quiet, but still
very close to the action. They advertise as having the largest
rooms for the price, and they seem to be right. The rooms
are clean and are well-maintained, and the staff is friendly.
There are safe boxes in some rooms and lockers downstairs.
The restaurant menu is basic and the food not too exciting,
but the sofas are good to meet people. 690-840 baht.
Penpark Place, 22 Sam Sen Soi 3 (a fair hike inside Soi 3),
+66-2-281-4733, . This hotel is quite far from Khao San Road,
but on the plus side, that's why this hotel is in such a peaceful
environment. It is a clean and quiet place with a nice garden
and river view at the rooftop. Rooms are quite large with a
wide window. High-speed internet and free WiFi available. A
good place to relax, meet friends, and to have an early-morn-
ing coffee. 450-750 baht.
Rainbow Guest House ( ), 43 Star Dome Inn ( ), 104/1 Rambuttri Rd (in the
Chakrabongse Rd (opposite Gazebo Bar),
+66-2-280-6648, . This place is basic, but its priced for it.
They have air-conditioned dorm rooms that are good val-
ue. Amenities include free WiFi, nice Indian food and beer,
and free private security lockers for all guests (you can use
your own padlock or borrow one of their's). The noise can be
troublesome though for the private rooms in the front near
Gazebo Bar, but the dorms in back are quieter. 150 baht.
Rambuttri Village Inn ( ), 95 Soi Ram- +66-2-629-5870(-4), . Family-run guest house with decent
buttri (in the middle of Soi Rambuttri), +66-2-282-9162, .
Quiet series of uninspired buildings with small rooms, its
main draw is its relaxing rooftop swimming pool. Howev-
er, their website neglects to mention that it shuts down at
6PM despite alluring photographs suggesting otherwise. Its
rooms range from basic fan rooms to "deluxe" air-condi-
tioned rooms. Biggest issue is the staff. If you have a prob-
lem, neither staff nor management will care about com-
plaints nor will they offer refunds or compensation, even if
it is the hotel's fault. They require a 1000-baht refundable
key deposit that can only be paid in cash (Thai baht only). If
you cannot produce the deposit, they will not let you in your
Khao San Road Sleep
room even if you have already paid for it beforehand. There
is also no WiFi or communal area. 750-880 baht.
Sawasdee Smile Inn ( ), 35 Trok Rong Mai
(from Chakrabongse Road, walk into Trok Kasap and take a
a unique colonial architecture, with more than one hundred
rooms available. Sawasdee Hotels is a big chain with plen-
ty of other locations as well. Things can get impersonal, the
cleanliness is so-so and rooms are very basic and small. It
really is for backpackers only, who do not have a lot of de-
mands. There are other hotels in the area that offer bigger
rooms, more amenities and better service for a similar price.
Sawasdee Welcome Inn ( ), 5-7 Trok
Rong Mai (from Chakrabongse Road, walk into Trok Kasap
and take a left into Trok Rong Mai), +66-2-629-3308, . This
is a decent guest house that is quiet, as it is off the busy
Soi Rambuttri, but still close enough so you can walk there.
Rooms are dark, and you get nothing more than a bed and
a sink. Don't expect English-speaking staff either. 300-880
baht.
Siam Oriental Inn ( ), 190 Khao San
Rd (in the middle of Khao San Road), +66-2-629-0312, .
Nice, clean and quiet rooms, both fan and air-conditioned,
all with a private bathroom. There's a lively restaurant, an in-
ternet cafe where you can surf the web for 1 baht per minute
and a photo-processing store. Other amenities include laun-
dry, where you have to pay by kilogram, and luggage stor-
age. 280-500 baht.
road that runs parallel to Khao San Road in the north),
+66-2-629-1136, . All rooms have a private bathroom with
cold water. Hot water is only available in the more expensive
rooms. Internet is available for 60 baht per hour and there
are laundry facilities. The inn is next to a disco/pub, so expect
excessive noise in the lower floor rooms. 400-600 baht.
Thai Cozy House ( ), 111/1-3 Tani Rd (at
the Tani Road and Sip Sam Hang Road intersection),
rooms that have cable TV, fridge, air-conditioning and hot
shower. Ideal location just far away enough from the crowds,
but close enough to the action. They also have plenty of oth-
er services, including a restaurant, travel agent and internet.
550-1000 baht.
Mid-range
There are several mid-range hotels in the area, with swimming
pools, mini bars, etc. Mid-range covers a wide spectrum, from
decent three-star hotels to upper class guest houses. Phra Athit
Road is a good place to start looking, its location right beside
the Chao Phraya river made it home to some more luxury ho-
tels.
81
 Districts
Cope
There are plenty of places around Khao San that do your laun-
dry. The general tariff is around 25-40 baht per kilo, and it's
ready to be picked up the next day. Look around, as some laun-
dromats even offer same-day pickup if you bring it in before
3PM. The Rambuttri Village Inn offers luggage storage for 20
baht per day.
If you don't stay at the road itself, a restroom can be hard to
find. There is a reasonably clean one inside Buddy's Shopping
Plaza walk all the way in and take a right before entering
Brick Bar. Price is 5 baht, but the queues can be long at popular
evenings. Another public restroom can be found all the way
inside Sunset Street, passing Starbucks on the left. Entry 5 baht.
You can also try Burger King at the eastern end of the road.
WearEver Laundromat, 115 Sam Sen Rd (opposite Suksawad
Hotel), +66-8-6504-7122 (info@weareverbangkok.com), .
M-F 10AM-late evening, Sa-Su late afternoon-late evening.
An interesting place to do your laundry, as it is also a kind of
bar, art gallery, movie theater, and what have you not. Plenty
of locals, expats and backpackers come here just to chill out.
Free WiFi for customers. 30 baht/kg.
Contact
Internet cafes are rivaled only by tuk-tuks for sheer ubiquity on
Khao San Road. Almost any guest house has at least some form
of internet available. Sawasdee Bangkok Inn ( will find themselves dropped off on a quiet street (shortcut),
) has three computers set up that cost 10 baht for 15 min- where the Tuk-Tuk has accomplices waiting to assault and rob
utes of surfing. It is right in the middle of Khao San Road. The
standard rate in the area is about 1 baht for 1 minute, so for
30 minutes, you have to pay about 30 baht. Virtually all are set
up for Skype and plain old international phone calls. Be aware
that some cafes have applied limitations on their terminals,
such as on printing documents and saving digital files check
whether this is the case before paying for it.
You can send (and even receive) mail at one of the area's two
post offices. Ratchadamnoen Post Office is just a small walk
through the alley behind Burger King. Banglamphubon Post
Office is not far either, located in front of Wat Bowonniwet.
From the eastern side of Khao San Road, just follow Tanao Road
in northwards direction and take a right at the roundabout.
Khao San Road Cope
Stay safe
Never enter a tuk-tuk if someone else is trying to convince you
Khao San Road is the worst district in Bangkok when it comes
to scams and annoyances. Be highly skeptical of anyone telling
you that your intended destination is currently closed. If some-
one offers you a free whole-day tuk-tuk ride, smile faintly and
keep on walking. If you agree to this, you probably will get a
free tuk-tuk ride all day, but the only thing you will see are
dozens of shops where you get tricked into buying worthless
gems, while the driver gets a commission. Never enter a tuk-
tuk if someone else is trying to get you into one. A recent
scam involves cheap transport offers to discos, massage par-
lours etc. late at night. The unwary who take up these offers
any gullible tourists. Better pull over a taxi yourself.
Beware of private bus companies around Khao San Road of-
fering direct trips from Bangkok to other cities with "VIP bus-
es". Some are reputable and will be able to provide you with
a great deal, but many of them are shopfronts for scam artists
and dodgy services. The so-called direct "VIP" trips may end up
changing three or four uncomfortable minibuses to the des-
tination, and the 10-11 hour trip may as well turn into 17-18
hours. Also, you are likely to be hit for extra charges for vari-
ous dubious services along the way and many operators will
intentionally slow down the journey so you arrive in the mid-
dle of the night and can be coaxed into choosing their guest
house invariably the crappiest place in town which just hap-
pens to pay the agency the highest commissions. Worst of all,
since you have paid in advance, you have no recourse of any
kind when this happens! Especially trips to Siem Reap in Cam-
bodia are known for this. You can ask around Khao San Road,
as a lot of people start and end their journeys there, and use an
agent which another traveler has used without any hassles. But
it is probably a better idea to do the trips independently using
public BKS buses from the main bus terminals.
The police station, located at the Western end of Khao San
Road, could be a valuable resource for travelers in trouble.
82
 Districts Khao San Road Get out

However, extreme caution should be exercised when asking

them for advice with regards to booking tickets they will of-
ten arrange a tuk-tuk to an "approved agency" for you (which
seems great and normally a better deal than you would be able
to arrange), but the prices offered by the agency they send
you to may be 2-3 times the price you could get elsewhere.
Often, the tuk-tuk driver, on seeing you come out of the first
agency without having bought a ticket, will take you to a sec-
ond agency "...for no extra..." only to have the same or similar
price quoted.

Be sure to read the Stay safe section of the main Bangkok article
for other scams you should look out for.

Get out
Famous sites within walking distance from Khao San Road in-
clude the Grand Palace (with Wat Phra Kaew), Wat Pho, Wat
Arun, Sanam Luang, Wat Ratchanadda and the Golden Mount.
See Rattanakosin for details. There are also some more adven-
turous options:

If you're up for a fun walk, hike to the Royal Barges National

Museum at the other side of the river in Thonburi. The walk-
ing tour goes over the Pinklao Bridge, through a typical folk
neighborhood (follow the signs) and ends with the sublime
royal barges.

Only on weekends, the Taling Chan Floating Market in Thon-

buri can be reached by bus 79 from Ratchadamnoen Klang
Road. Ask a local where to get off, or you might get lost.

83
 Districts Yaowarat and Phahurat Understand

YAOWARAT AND
PHAHURAT
Understand
Compared to the rest of the city, this district is fairly compact
and can best be explored in a full-day (and night) walking tour.
You'll come across street markets, shop houses, gold shops,
beautiful remnants of colonial-style architecture and some in-
teresting temples. Instead of tramping from temple to temple, Phahurat Road
this neighborhood is mostly about catching a brief peek in-
to commercial Bangkok as it has been the last two centuries. Phahurat is centered around Phahurat Road, which starts im-
Rushing through won't be rewardingtake your time instead, mediately west of Sampeng Lane. It is crossed by Chakphet
sitting at a plastic chair and watching local traders sell their Road and Tri Phet Road, both major roads that have to cope
wares. As the street markets are not targeted to foreigners, with the immense traffic coming from the Memorial Bridge.
you will find a wide array of products: ceramics, fabrics, gold,
tacky teenager ware, ant-killer chalk, Bollywood movies, gin- History
seng roots. Who knows what you'll end up with at the end of
the day. It is best to come during weekdays, as many stores Yaowarat is one of the oldest Chinese communities in Thailand.
close during the weekends. Also keep in mind that most shops The story of the Chinese in Bangkok starts in the late 1700s,
close at 5PM after which most of the area gets pretty much de- when poor peasants from China's Chaozhou region (in Eastern
serted (Yaowarat Road being a noteworthy exception). Guangdong) moved to the Grand Palace area in Rattanakosin.
They came to Siam to find work in Thonburi at the other side
of the Chao Phraya River (which at that time was the capital of
Orientation the country). The Chinese were requested to move outside the
Orientation in Yaowarat is even trickier than elsewhere in city walls when King Rama I set up his new capital in the Grand
Bangkok. The area is filled with narrow alleys and obscure Palace area in 1782.
pedestrian-only routes, and is crossed by a few giant roads that
feel like small highways. Finding your way around isn't made
easy as road signs are blocked by the bulk of neon-signs and Get in
other merchandise that sellers hang up to attract customers.
The perfect map for the district still has to be created, so adapt
to the situation and expect to get lost often. Also take note that
alleys often bear the name trok instead of the usual soi, and
that many have multiple names attached to them. For exam-
ple, Trok Issaranuphap is often signposted as Soi Issaranuphap
or as Soi 16, while Soi Phadung Dao is also known as Soi Texas.

Yaowarat is centered, as could be expected, around Yaowarat

Road, a big road bursting with neon signs. North of it is Charoen
Krung Road, which is also one of Bangkok's major traffic arter-
ies. Running parallel to the south of Yaowarat Road is Samp-
eng Lane, which is also known as Soi Wanit 1, a narrow pedes-
trian-only lane with many small department stores. Crossing
these three streets is the pedestrian-only Trok Issaranuphap,
another interesting lane for shopping and having small snacks.
Another small lane crossing Yaowarat Road is Soi Phadung
Dao, and that's the place to go when you're about to get hun-
gry.

Map of Yaowarat and Phahurat

84
 Districts
By boat
Due to its location at the Chao Phraya River, most visitors en-
ter Yaowarat and Phahurat using the Chao Phraya Express Boat
service. A single trip from Rattanakosin or Silom takes about 20
minutes and costs around 18 baht. The most important stops
are the Rachawongse and Si Phraya piers, both of which are
served by all lines. Rachawongse is an ideal stop for central
Yaowarat, while Si Phraya is close to the southeastern part of
the district. Phahurat can best be reached using the Memori-
al Bridge pier (saphan phut), which is only attended by no-flag
and orange flag lines. Other piers that could be useful are Ra-
chini and Marine Department, both of which are only served
by no-flag lines.
If you're coming from Thonburi, you can cross the river by tak-
ing a ferry. There is a ferry service from Kanlayanamit to Pak Kh-
long Talat, from Dindaeng to Rachawongse and from Klongsan
to Si Phraya. Ferries leave about every 15 minutes for just 3
baht.
By public transit
Yaowarat and Phahurat can directly be reached by metro if you
are coming from Silom, Sukhumvit or Ratchadaphisek. The on-
ly station close to the district is Hua Lamphong at the east-
ern side. The metro ride from Silom takes about five minutes,
while the ride from Sukhumvit takes about ten minutes. Trains
leave every five to ten minutes for a fare of about 16 to 41 baht.
From the metro station, it is a 20 minute walk to the center of
Yaowarat.
By bus
The bus system in Bangkok is complex, but it is actually one
of the cheapest ways to travel around the city. Many lines run
through the district, but let's start with a warning: as Yaowarat
Road is a one-way road, bus lines only use it in westwards di-
rection (to Rattanakosin). Buses going east use Charoen Krung
Road instead!
Ordinary and air-conditioned bus 25 is the most important bus
route. It starts in the far southeast of Sukhumvit Road, then fol-
lows that road northwest before heading through Ratchapra-
song intersection (for Siam Square), Ratchdamri Road, Silom in-
tersection, Rama IV Road, Hualamphong Train Station and then
runs right through Yaowarat Road and Phahurat Road. This
route can also be taken from the other direction, then it comes
from Tha Chang pier (near the Grand Palace in Rattanakosin)
and takes Charoen Krung Road instead of Yaowarat Road.
From Khao San Road, catch ordinary (circular) bus 56 which
runs along Tanao Road at the eastern tip of Khao San Road and
then goes south through Maha Chai Road and Chakphet Road
(get off after the Merry King department store for Phahurat
Road and Sampeng Lane; don't miss it, as it will cross the bridge
to Thonburi right after). Ordinary bus 4 comes from Silom in-
Yaowarat and Phahurat See
tersection along Rama IV Road and passes Hualamphong Train
Station through Yaowarat Road and then goes southwest over
the Phra Pok Klao bridge to Thonburi (as with all routes, in east-
wards direction Yaowarat Road is skipped in favor of Charoen
Krung Road).
By train
Yaowarat and Phahurat can easily be reached from Hualam-
phong Train Station, which is located at the eastern border
of the district. Trains come in and go to many destinations in
Thailand, including Ayutthaya, Kanchanaburi, Chiang Mai and
Southern Thailand.
See
Sights abound around Yaowarat and Phahurat, but if you're
looking for "must-sees", you might want to visit Rattanakosin
first. While enjoying a relaxed walk through this district, you
should at least incorporatea visit to Wat Mangkon Kamalawat
and Wat Traimit. Other sights could be considered optional or
more interesting for adventurous travellers.
Temples
Guru Tawan Sikh Temple ( Gu-
rudwara Siri Guru Singh Sabha), 565 Chakphet Rd (next
to the India Emporium mall, south of the Pahurat Rd and
Chakphet Rd intersection), +66-2-221-1011, . 10AM-6PM
daily. Established in 1932, this Sikh temple is the most iconic
landmark of Phahurat and actually the second-largest Sikh
temple outside India. It is a white six-story building with a
large golden dome on top. This temple is very important for
daily life as most Indians in this neighborhood are followers
of the Sikh faith. It is possible to enter, but you must take off
your shoes and cover your head with an orange cloth. Free.
Wat Chai Chana Songkhram (, literally
War Victory Temple), 83 Chakrawat Rd (walk 150 me-
ters north along Chakrawat Road from Yaowarat Road),
+66-2-221-4310, . This third class Royal Temple dates from
1848, the reign of King Rama III. The temple was the project
of chief commander Chao Phraya Bodindecha, who lead Si-
am to victory in the wars against Vietnam and Cambodia.
He designated his house and the surrounding land as a site
for a new temple, which he called the War Victory Temple
as a commemoration to his victories. It is a relatively large
temple complex with an enshrined Buddha inside the main
building. Free.
85
 Districts Yaowarat and Phahurat See

ignate brothels in the West). Next to the ubosot in a smaller

viharn housing a Western-looking Buddha image. Free.

Wat Mangkon Kamalawat ( Dragon Flower

Temple or Wat Leng Noei Yi), Charoen
Krung Rd (at the intersection of Charoen Krung Rd and
Trok Issaranuphap. take the small passageway from Charoen
Krung Rd), +66-2-222-3975. 6AM-5PM daily. On the list of
every Yaowarat visitor, you will be amazed by the impressive
multi-tiered gateway when you enter the temple. It is a Ma-
hayana Buddhist temple, the school of Buddhism that most
Chinese follow, and it has mixed with other Chinese prac-
tices like Confucianism and Taoism. It is in Southern Chinese
style built in 1871. There are plenty of statues and shrines
inside, most interesting is the part right after the second en-
trance. Four golden statues will greet you, each with a sym-
Crocodile at Wat Chakrawat
bolic object: a parasol, a pagoda, a snake's head and a man-
Wat Chakrawat (), dolin. It is one of Chinatown's liveliest temples with many
Chakrawat Rd (south of Sampeng Lane, between Chakrawat Thai-Chinese praying and burning incense. Free.
Rd and Maha Chak Rd, can enter the compound using a
Wat Pathum Khongkha (, also known as Wat
small alley from Maha Chak Rd). The temple itself actually
Sampeng), Song Wat Rd (between Sampeng Lane and Soi
is rather small, though it does have some interesting fea-
Wanit 2). 7AM-6PM daily. Previously known as Wat Samp-
tures. To the right as you walk through the gate is a small
eng, this ancient monastery was founded in the Ayutthaya
viharn. Its outer wall is decorated in a remarkable black and
period. It has been renovated during the reign of King Rama I
gold pattern, which is unusual, as usually these decorations
by a rich Thai citizen, who gave the temple the current name.
are found on interior walls. Most travellers like to visit this
The main Buddhist image in the temple is in the subduing
place for its serene atmosphere with crocodiles, birds, dogs,
mara posture. The doors and windows are exquisitely deco-
birds and relaxed monks. Crocodiles have been living in the
rated in with lacquered ornamentation in gold leaf patterns.
small pond beside the temple for about fifty years. At that
Behind the temple is the Execution Stone, where King Rama
time, a crocodile that was found in the Chao Phraya River
III ordered the execution of Krommaluang Rak Ronnaret for
was brought to this temple for the safety of Bangkok's citi-
planning a rebellion against him. The canal in front of the
zens. This original crocodile can still be viewed in the glass
temple is a holy site as the ash of cremated members of the
case above the pond. Free.
royal family and the royal elephants are scattered here. The
Wat Ga Buang Kim, Soi Krai (southwest of the Sampeng Lane temple has recently been completely restored, making the
and Rachawongse Rd intersection. take the small alleys from golden Buddha images look shinier than ever. Free.
Anawong Rd or Rachawongse Rd). Definitely off the tourist
Wat Ratchaburana (, also known
trail, this more or less deserted temple shows how local res-
as Wat Liap), Tri Phet Rd (at the Tri Phet Rd and Chakrawat Rd
idents practice their religion. The most interesting room is
intersection), +66-2-225-1595. 6AM-6PM daily. This tem-
the wonderfully ornamented Boonsamakan Vegetarian Hall,
ple is located at the foot of the Rama I Memorial Bridge on
which is home to miniature gold characters reappearing
the Bangkok side. Built in the late Ayutthaya period by a
several times in different moods and positions. Around the
Chinese merchant, it is otherwise known as Wat Liap and is
doorway, at the top of the stairs, you can find finely crafted
one of the 3 principal temples of the capital which include
ceramic figurines drawn from Chinese opera stories. Chinese
Wat Ratchaburana, Wat Ratchapradit and Wat Mahathat. It
opera performances are occasionally held at the other build-
had been regularly restored since the reign of King Rama I
ing in the temple compound. Free.
through to the reign of King Rama VII, except in the sixth
Wat Kanikapon (, also known as Wat Mae Lao reign. Some of the temple's principal buildings, especial-
Feng), Trok Issaranuphap (at the intersection of Trok Is- ly Phra Ubosot the ordination hall which houses mur-
saranuphap and Phlap Phla Chai Rd). A short walk from the al paintings by Khrua In Khong, were badly damaged by
much-visited Wat Mangkon Kamalawat is Wat Kanikapon, bombing during World War II. The buildings were later re-
built in the late nineteenth century. Certainly off the beat- stored to their good condition as they appear today. Free.
en path, if it is known by travellers, then it is because of the
Wat Samphanthawong (), Song
fact that the temple was founded by a brothel owner. The
Sawat Rd (north of the intersection between Song Sawat Rd
dark green tiles decorate that the window frames bear re-
and Sampeng Lane). In the Ayutthaya period this temple
semblance to the green curtains used in the brothels that
bare the name "Wat Ko", which means Island Temple, as it
once thrived in Yaowarat (in Thailand, green was used to
was surrounded by a canal that was directly in contact with
designate brothels in a similar way as red was used to des-

86
 Districts
the Chao Phraya River. King Rama I turned it into a royal tem-
ple in 1796. King Rama IV gave the temple its current name
after Prince Samphanthawong. Inside you can find a statue
of Mara. The backyard is filled with rows of golden Buddhas.
Free.
Wat Traimit ( Temple of the also has an impressive shrine known as the Guang Dong
Golden Buddha), Tri Mit Rd (MRT Hua Lamphong, east of the
Odeon Circle), +66-2-225-9775. 8AM-5PM daily. This tem-
ple is one of the highlights of Yaowarat, but is actually not
part of China's cultural heritage. It houses the Phra Phuttha
Maha Suwan Patimakon (), the tion materials and Buddha images from their homeland.
world's largest solid-gold Buddha image, which originates
from the Sukhothai period. It is over three meters tall and
weighs five and a half tonnes, with an interesting history.
The image was only rediscovered about 50 years ago when
it dropped from a crane while being moved. This cracked the
plaster exterior that was (as it's said) applied to hide the im-
age from the invading Burmese army. There is an impressive
white structure with a golden spire next to the temple, that
reaches higher than many other buildings in the district. 20
baht.
Shrines
Leng Buai Ia Shrine
Leng Buai Ia Shrine (), Trok Is- to find, with 200 years this riverbank shrine is actually one of
saranuphap (south of Charoen Krung Rd, north of Yaowarat
Rd). This shrine, housed in a traditionally Chinese architec-
tural style-building is considered to be the oldest Chinese
shrine in Thailand. This claim is based on the plaque inside
with a Chinese inscription that states that the shrine was
built in 1658. That year corresponds to the Ayutthaya period,
far before Bangkok became the capital of the country. Dur-
ing all these years, Chinese businessmen in the area came to
the shrine for refuge and to improve the prosperity of their
businesses. The roof is made of glazed colored tiles with two
ceramic-clad dragons on top. The two main columns beside
the entrance also both feature a ceramic-clad dragon. Inside
there is a shrine dedicated to Leng Buai Ia and his wife in the
Yaowarat and Phahurat See
center, a shrine dedicated to the deity Going-Wu on the left
and a shrine dedicated to the Queen of Heaven on the right.
Kwong Siew Foundation (), 5/3-5/5
Charoen Krung Rd, +66-2-226-5704. As with the other
foundations and medical centers in the area, this charity
Shrine (). This 130-year old shrine
was built in a traditional Chinese architectural style and used
to be a meeting place of overseas Chinese from the Guang-
dong region in China. It has been built mostly with construc-
Li Thi Miew Shrine (), 494 Plap Phla
Chai Rd (close to Wat Kanikapon), +66-2-221-6985. One of
the larger and more open Chinese shrines in Bangkok, the Li
Thi Miew Shrine is not a sight where you'll find many tourists.
This Taoist temple has a large roof housing plenty of smaller
shrines. As typical in Chinese shrines, the roof features two
dragons that play with a pearl. The building next to the tem-
ple features a large shrine, which just like the Thien Fa Foun-
dation, is dedicated to Kuan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy.
Poh Teck Tung Foundation ( Por Tek
Teung Foundation), 326 Chao Khamrob Rd (near Wat
Kanikapon and the Phlap Phla Chai Police Station),
+66-2-226-4444(-8). 7AM-8PM daily. This charity organiza-
tion has been established by dr. Utain Techapaiboon more
than 100 years ago for arranging funerals for unidentified
corpses, such as accident victims. Between the foundation
and the Li Thi Miew Shrine are plenty of funerary parapher-
nalia stores. Most interesting is the Da Feng Zu Shrine inside.
It is a very lively shrine with many Thai-Chinese coming over
to worship the Da Feng Zu God, make a merit and get rid of
their bad fortune. Many satin banners and paper offerings
such as fake money are burned to ensure that the spirit of
the deceased has lots of good things in the afterlife. Free.
San Jao Sieng Kong (), Soi Wanit 2 (take a
small alley off Soi Wanit 2, opposite River View Guesthouse).
6AM-6PM daily. In one of the small sois and particularly hard
the oldest Chinese shrines in the city. It is guarded by a play-
ful rooftop terracotta dragon. One of the former owners of
the shrine made money by collecting taxes on bird-nest del-
icacies. It particularly gets lively during the Vegetarian Festi-
val in October, when Chinese operas and fairground games
are staged. It is in the middle of the Sieng Kong Zone, a car
spare parts market named after the shrine, and thus could
be combined with a visit to it. Donation requested.
Thien Fa Foundation (), Yaowarat Rd
(slightly north of the Yaowarat Rd and Charoen Krung Rd in-
tersection, also north of the Odeon Circle). This is the old-
est charitable society of Bangkok, founded in 1902 by Chi-
nese immigrants in Thailand. The local clinics at the site pro-
vide free medical treatment for the poor using traditional
Chinese as well as modern practices. Most interesting for
foreign visitors is the courtyard which boasts the Guan Yin
87
 Districts
Shrine (), commonly known as
the "Shrine for the Goddess of Mercy". Local visitors of the
shrine follow the Mahayana school of Buddhism, which is
different from the Theravada school that is dominant else-
where in Thailand. The statue of the goddess Ming, to whom
the shrine is dedicated, is the highlight of the temple. The
statue was carved out from a single piece of solid teakwood
and shows Ming in the attitude of giving blessings. It was
carved in China in Tang Dynasty art style and is believed to
be around 800 years old. The statue has been in possession
of the foundation since 1958, when it was taken out of China
and placed inside the temple. The exterior's architecture is
typically Chinese with an impressive roof and beautiful teak
wood motif carving of dragons and other Chinese symbols.
It is particularly lively during Chinese New Year.
Do
Take the Yaowarat and Phahurat Tour, a full day walking tour
around the most interesting sights, markets and restaurants
of the area.
Chinatown Foodie Walk and Culture Tour, (meet at MRT Hua
Lamphong station), +66-8-9126-3657, . W-Sa 6PM-9:30PM.
This is a culinary walking tour through Yaowarat that takes
about 3,5 hours. The tour includes the tasting of nine menus
from seven local eateries, as well as visits to local landmarks.
Each participant is given a wireless earpiece to use during
the tour. The tour is only available from Wednesday to Satur-
day. 1300 baht.
Chalerm Krung Royal Theatre (), um dens, but has now turned into a crowded lane of endless
66 Charoen Krung Rd (near the Old Siam Plaza),
+66-2-225-8757(-8), +66-2-623-8148(-9). 10AM-6PM daily.
Opened in 1933, the theatre places a heavy emphasis on
Thai dramas known as "khon" traditional Thai dances
based on Thai history and legends that take about two
hours. The "khon" are mostly performed during the winter
months, while other performing arts (including cinema) are
staged throughout the year. It is best to call first to find out
about which performances are on.
Yaowarat and Phahurat Do
Buy
Street markets
Sampeng Lane
Typical for Yaowarat are its small crowded lanes filled with
markets, that sell... well, anything you could possibly imagine.
You'll stumble on items for sale as diverse as Chinese medicine,
snake blood, Buddhist paraphernalia, toys, ant-killer chalk, car
spare parts, typical teenager stuff and more. Parallel to the big
Yaowarat Road lies Sampeng Lane (sometimes signposted as
Soi Wanit 1, 8AM-6PM daily) which is probably the most char-
acteristic (if tacky) shopping lane of the area. This narrow lane,
at some places having a width of less than one meter, used to
be a shady area thriving on brothels, gambling houses and opi-
ramshackle department stores. The lane can roughly be divid-
ed into three sections, all of them selling different kind of prod-
ucts at bargain rates. The lower eastern part of Sampeng Lane
focuses on cheap teenager accessories, such as cheap jewelry,
toys and hair products. In the middle part, there is more of a fo-
cus on shoes, Chinese ceramics and lanterns. Indian merchants
have mostly taken over the part west of Rachawongse Road,
where you can find fabrics, silk and other clothes. Don't expect
high quality here, just shop for the heck of it.
Some of the smaller markets include:
Ban Mo (), Soi Thip Wari (alley runs parallel to
Phahurat Road at the northern side). 9AM-5PM daily. The
market known as Ban Mo has hundreds of shops selling elec-
tronics and home appliances. There are also numerous re-
pair shops and replacement parts on sale. In addition, there
is an overwhelming sale of counterfeit and pornographic
CDs and DVDs. There are few foreigners here, most visitors
are Thai males looking for cheap electronics and spare parts.
Khlong Ong Ang Market (, also known as
Saphan Le), Boriphat Rd (at the intersection of Bo-
riphat Rd and Yaowarat Rd, next to the Thieves Market). This
cheap market is on the banks of Khlong Ong Ang, and easily
88
 Districts
combined with the Thieves' Market. It feels quite cramped as
the shops are around a very small pathway. The products for
sale are toys and electronics, such as air guns, video games,
camcorders, used cameras and accessories.
Khlong Tom Market (), (between Luang Rd, Charoen Jao Sieng Kong temple, which is listed in the See section.
Krung Rd, Worachak Rd and Suapa Rd). Another one of
Chinatown's typical markets, and actually one of the largest
by square footage. It is not really one market, but instead a
combination of specialty stores and open-air markets. It is
mostly of interest if you're looking for low-cost electronics
and hardware, such as cellular phones, CDs and DVDs, gad-
gets, household tools, toys, vehicle spare parts, some clothes
and many many small things.
Noi Market ( Talat Noi), Soi 20 and 22, Charoen visitors are drawn by the sale of all kinds of musical instru-
Krung Rd (between Soi Wanit 2 and Charoen Krung Rd). This
market is so off the beaten path, you may not even find your
way back anymore. Its hidden location between soi 20 and
22 gives this market a very local atmosphere, even while
tourists are never far away. The market vendors sell products
from China, fruit and other fresh food. But most interesting
is the fact that you might walk through others' living rooms
and see more of the citizens' daily life. Nearby is the Sieng
Kong Zone, which can easily be combined with a visit to the
Noi Market.
Plaeng Nam Road (). This small road feels like
a time machine with an atmosphere of at least one hun-
dred years old. It is an excellent showcase of ancient Chi-
nese civilization. If coming from Charoen Krung Road, pass
the Mongkol Smakhorm Temple and the ancient Chinese
pharmacy and on the right side you will find Guang Jiab Xia,
a shop selling and repairing traditional Chinese musical in-
struments. Generally they are also trying one of the instru-
ments playing traditional Chinese music. Close by is Liang
Guang Panich, a 70-year old shop that sells ancient Thai and
foreign lamps.
Sieng Kong Zone
Sieng Kong Zone, Soi Wanit 2 (at the intersection of Soi Wan-
it 2 and Soi Yaowarat 10). The Sieng Kong Zone is the old-
est car spare part market of Bangkok. It is a typical neighbor-
Yaowarat and Phahurat Buy
hood to see the daily life of the local Chinese, most of who
work in garages and repair cars on the streets. Obviously it is
not easy to bring these parts home, but it does make for a fun
walk. You will come across huge piles of oily car parts, some
of them taller than 3 meters! The area is named after the San
Thieves' Market ( Woeng Nakhon Kasem),
Woeng Nakhon Kasem 1 and 2 (between Chakrawat Rd and
Boriphat Rd). This open-air market is called the Thieves' Mar-
ket, as many of the goods sold here were stolen. Now it
is mostly known for its combination of garage sales, brass-
ware, blue-and-white porcelain, old furniture and imitation
antiques. Not too interesting for most foreigners though,
but it is so dirty that it might be worth a look. Some of its
ments, from guitars to flutes.
Wanit 2 Market ( 2), Soi Wanit 2 (right in front of the
Holy Rosary Church, north of River City). This market doesn't
seem to have a real name, but its location near the church
and River City makes it relatively easy to find. It's not worth
it to specifically come here for the market, as it is very small,
but it is a fun market if you happen to be in the area. You
might want to sit down on one of the plastic seats and try
some Chinese snacks as you walk from River City to China-
town proper.
Phahurat
Fabric shopping
Shopping in Phahurat is not as rewarding for the average trav-
eller, unless you are into Bollywood movies, betelnut leaves
(paan) or Punjabi sweets. If you're looking for fabrics, howev-
er, Phahurat is definitely the place to be. And even if you're
not specifically looking for fabrics, it is still a great adventure
to visit the Phahurat Fabrics Market (Phahurat Rd and Triphet
Rd, 9AM-6PM daily). The first task is to actually find it: it is care-
fully hidden and you need to walk through a couple of other
stores to get into it. Once you're there, you'll definitely know
though, as it is a fabrics market on steroids. Thousands of retail-
ers of Indian descent sell fabrics in every color, shape and pat-
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 Districts
tern you could possibly imagine. Some shops are specialized
in custom-made wedding gifts, dresses and souvenirs. This old
market is a labyrinth of narrow lanes, barely wide enough for
two people to pass each other. It is the most typical market the
Indian neighborhood has to offer and has managed to keep its
unique character ever since it was founded.
Besides fabrics, Phahurat is also an excellent place for buying
accessories, such as bracelets, trinkets and sandals. There are
literally thousands of different kinds for sale, and all for a bar-
gain, so mix and match as you wish. You'll also notice many
stores selling religious paraphernalia like statues and pictures
of Indian deities.
Flowers
Pak Khlong Talat
As Phahurat becomes deserted at night, Pak Khlong Talat
(, Chakphet Rd, open 24 hours) just starts to be- to get deserted after dark, so you might want to head off by
come lively. Not having anything to do with the Indian com-
munity, this wholesale flower market is a great stroll through
and a highlight in its own right. The endless piles orchids, roses
and other flowers are an interesting sight, and there is some-
thing to be found for any budget. There are amazingly expen-
sive bouquets for thousands of bahts, but your partner might
even be happier with a beautifully created rose for just 50 baht.
The market is open at all times, but the best time to visit is
around 3AM, when the new flower batches come in from West
and Central Thailand. If that is too late (or too early) for you, visit
it from 8PM onwards when the market is beautifully illuminat-
ed and very lively.
A visit to the flower market can easily be combined with the
Memorial Bridge Night Market ( Saphan Phut, Tu-
Su 8PM-midnight, M closed), which is located at the Memorial
Bridge pier. This cramped night bazaar is a fun walk through
the dark, as plenty of colorful lights bright up the place. Expect
nothing spectacular though, most of the products for sale are
clothes, shoes and accessories for teenagers, as well as some
second-hand items.
Yaowarat and Phahurat Eat
Gold
Yaowarat has been the home of gold and gem trading for a
couple of centuries, and it is no wonder that some of the old-
est buildings in the district are gold shops. Originally, the four
"tycoon" gold shops were Seng Heng Li, Hua Seng Heng, Tung
Jin Aeng and Tang To Kang. Now there are more than 130 gold
shops along Yaowarat Road alone, which is why it is known
as the "Golden Road". Generally, the gold is of high standard
(of approximately 23 karat gold) and most shops are a mem-
ber of the Gold Merchants Association. As this district is out of
the tourist eye, it is generally safer, but still be wary of the gem
scam. See the Stay safe section of the Bangkok page for more
information about the scam and what to do once you've fallen
for it. One of the better trusted gem stores:
Johny's Gems, 199 Fuang Nakhon Rd, +66-2-224-4065, .
M-Sa 9:30AM-6PM, Su closed. Known among Bangkok's ex-
pats as one of the more trusted gem shops. It focuses mainly
on rubies and emeralds and has something for all budgets.
The original owner whom the shop is named after has since
passed away, but the store has been taken over by his son.
Malls
Three of Bangkok's better known malls can also be found in the
district:
Eat
If you're looking for Indian restaurants, your best bets are
Phahurat Road and Chakphet Road. The roads themselves tend
taxi when eating time is over.
Budget
Yaowarat
Chong Kee, 84 Soi Sukon, Tri Mit Rd (near Wat Traimit),
+66-2-236-1171. Tu-Su 9:30AM-7PM, M 9:30AM-2PM. Anoth-
er small budget restaurant in Chinatown. Many of the eater-
ies here are specialized in one kind of dish, and here the pork
satay with sweet toast is the one to try. Lots of herbs were
added into the satay sauce. Usually there are plenty of seats
available, but it can be crowded during lunch time. 60 baht.
Hong Kong Noodles, 136 Trok Issaranuphap. 9AM-6PM dai-
ly. This typical Yaowarat budget restaurant is in the middle
of the sensual Trok Issaranuphap market. Just take a seat
90
 Districts
on one of the plastic chairs and immerse yourself in the sur-
rounding commerce. Obviously, go for the noodles. 30 baht.
Nai Ek, 442 Soi 9, Yaowarat Rd (near White Orchid Hotel),
+66-2-226-4651. 10AM-2PM daily. Simple budget restaurant
for boiled noodles. 40-50 baht.
Nai Sow, 3-1 Maitri Chit Rd, +66-2-222-1539. 10AM-10PM
daily. A simple restaurant in the north of Yaowarat. It serves
the usual Thai dishes, such as tom yam goong. 50 baht.
Thai Charoen, 454 Charoen Krung Rd, +66-2-221-2633.
9AM-7PM daily. Another one of Yaowarat's budget places,
this unpretentious restaurant has all the Chinese special-
ties for absolute bargain prices. You might want to try the
stuffed squid. 30 baht.
Yen Ta Fo Je Hieng, Yaowarat Rd (at the intersection of
Mangkon Rd and Yaowarat Rd). 9AM-6PM daily. This simple
restaurant is specialized in "yen ta fo", a Thai seafood dish
best explained as rice noodles in red tofu soup. The place
does not have an English sign outside, so look for the big red
sign with the menu written out in white Thai alphabet. 30
baht.
Pahurat
Chacha Restaurant, 458 Chakphet Rd, +66-2-222-5712.
Small, simple and unpretentious, it gets the job done with
some fine dishes from northern India. The obvious Indian
curries are present, but where this restaurant excels is at its
wide array of vegetarian dishes. If you're a vegetarian (or
even if you're not), you might want to try the allimatter, a
spicy dish of chickpea, rice and potatoes. 65 baht.
Old Siam Plaza Food Court, 3F, Old Siam Plaza, 12 Tri Phet
Rd (at the intersection of Phahurat Rd and Tri Phet Rd),
+66-2-226-0156. 10AM-9PM daily. The Old Siam has an ex-
cellent food court with delicious Thai and Chinese dishes. It
works with a coupon system. If you're still hungry afterwards,
head for the first floor of the building which has an excellent
choice of local sweets and desserts. 90 baht.
Samrat, Chakphet Rd. 9AM-9PM daily. Another budget
restaurant with delicious Indian curries, along with a range
of desserts and drinks. 80 baht.
Drink
If you're looking for bars or clubs, you are definitely in the
wrong neighborhood but in Yaowarat, you'll always find an
opportunity to drink something you have never tried before.
You might want to try the snake tonic in the middle of Phadung
Dao Road, about 300 meters from the east end of Yaowarat
Road. Based on Chinese traditions, an old man can cure any ail-
ments you might have with this brew from the blood and meat
of snakes. Not for the fainthearted.
Yaowarat and Phahurat Drink
Most visitors just line up at one of Yaowarat Road's numerous
hawker stalls for some soda or iced chocolate. Else you can take
a seat at one of the area's coffee joints:
Ek Teng Phu Kee Coffee, Yaowarat Rd (at the intersection
of Yaowarat Rd and Song Sawat Rd), +66-2-221-4484.
3:30AM-9:30PM daily. A nice coffee stall down the east end
of Yaowarat. A good place to see the people of Yaowarat dis-
cuss anything you probably can't understand over a cup of
coffee. 50 baht.
Iea Sae Coffee, Phat Sai Rd (at the intersection of Phat Sai
Rd and Yaowa Phanit Rd), +66-2-573-3388. 5AM-10PM dai-
ly. As always in Yaowarat, this 80-year old coffee joint does
not sell the usual latte or cappuccino - the special treat is
Chaozhou coffee, a bittersweet Chinese brew. 50 baht.
Sleep
Not many people spend the night in Yaowarat or Phahurat, but
there are some hotels available for the ones who'd like to ex-
plore the area more than just one day. Yaowarat is an inter-
esting medium-cost alternative for Khao San Road, and the at-
mosphere is much more authentic. Many of the hotels have the
same ramshackle feel as those found in the average Chinese
city.
Budget
238 Guesthouse, 238 Phahurat Rd (at the corner of Phahurat
Road and Charoen Krung Soi 2), +66-2-623-9073, . One of
the few basic hotels in the Phahurat area, the 16 rooms of
238 Guesthouse do a decent job. There are air-conditioned
rooms with hot showers and fan rooms with cold showers.
Additional services in the lobby, such as laundry, WiFi, com-
puter games, food and drinks. 500-700 baht.
Broad Way Hotel, 445 Yaowarat Rd (near White Orchid Ho-
tel), +66-2-221-1430. This budget hotel is situated at the
second floor, as the first floor only has stairs. It has fifty
rooms, but they are not in a very good condition. Some
rooms have a bathroom and air-conditioning. 200-600 baht.
Golden Chain Hotel ( ), 231 Yaowarat Rd,
+66-2-221-0384 (fax: +66-2-221-9745). Very cheap hotel
with 37 rooms that have a TV, refrigerator, table, bathroom
and hot water. Also, there is a restaurant at the ground floor.
Fan 270 baht, air-conditioning 470 baht, deluxe air-condi-
tioning 570 baht.
My Guest House, 114 Phat Sai Rd (at the corner of Phat Sai
Road and Song Sawat Road), +66-2-223-5963. Just look
at the price and you know that this is a very old place fully
meant for those who are looking for a very cheap way to get
through the night. The rooms are windowless and only have
cold water showers available. But the staff is very helpful and
91
 Districts Yaowarat and Phahurat Contact

there's a good Thai/Chinese restaurant downstairs with an
English menu. 150-300 baht.
River View Guest House, 768 Soi Phanurangsri,
+66-2-234-5429, . In the narrow back alleys around Talat Noi,
this hotel is really hard to find. It is hidden from the chaos
in a filthy residential neighborhood, but that's the charm:
it feels like a serene, tranquil and village-like atmosphere,
which is quite unusual in a megalopolis like Bangkok. Its roof
terrace gives an excellent view over the Chao Phraya River
(hence the name). But don't forget that it is a budget hotel
that is aimed at backpackers, so it is very basic and not al-
ways clean. There are cheaper fan rooms and more expen-
sive air-conditioning rooms, but don't expect a lot from the
cheaper end rooms. 450-900 baht.
basic, buts its clean and in a convenient location. Air-condi-
tioned rooms are of better quality than the fan rooms, and
feature Western-style toilets. 250-400 baht.
Train Inn, 428 Rong Mueang Rd (MRT Hua Lamphong, near
Hualamphong Train Station), +66-2-215-3055(-66), . Don't
expect anything more than a budget hotel here, most trav-
elers just use it to catch an early train, as the train station
is only a 3-minutes walk. The whole hotel feels a bit claus-
trophobic (some rooms don't have windows) and there can
be a disgusting smell all over the place. The rooms are okay
and include air-conditioning. The staff is polite too. 450-900
baht.

Hualamphong Station area Contact

Despite the amount of people on the streets, there are not
many options for public Internet access. Some of the hotels
have internet access available, so your best bet is to visit one of
them and hope they allow non-guests to use it for a fee. There
are no dedicated Internet cafes, so for that, you might want to
head off to Siam Square or Khao San Road.

Get out
Looking for more temples? Rattanakosin is just northwest
of the district and has dozens of them, including the Grand
Palace and Wat Pho.
Hualamphong Train Station If you like the street markets in Yaowarat and Phahurat, you
might want to attend the much-larger Chatuchak Weekend
If you need to catch one of the early trains (to Ayutthaya, Kan-
Market in Phahonyothin.
chanaburi or beyond), it can pay off to spend the night in the
area around Hualamphong Train Station. Its location is ideal,
as it is at the meeting point of three interesting districts (Siam
Square, Silom and Yaowarat), while the area is also served by
an MRT station.

Krung Kasem Srikung Hotel, 1860 Krung Kasem Rd,

+66-2-225-8900. This budget hotel is close to Hualamphong
Train Station. It's obviously not the prettiest building ever,
but its clean sizable rooms are good value. Its location is ex-
cellent, both close to Chinatown and to the MRT station to
Silom. Try to get a room with an even number as the uneven
ones are closer to the road and its street noise. 650 baht.

Sri Hualamphong Hotel, 445 Rong Muang Rd,

+66-2-214-2610. Another old hotel, as is common this area,
but this one clearly has a history behind it. It is in a distinc-
tive Chinese style, and must have been an amazing attrac-
tion in the past. Now it's kinda dusty and old, but still decent
as a station hotel. They only have fan and cold water rooms.
250-400 baht.

Station Hotel, 518 Rong Muang Rd (down a small food stall

soi to the left of the station when exiting Train Station; look
high up for the sign), +66-2-214-2794. This hotel is very

92
 Districts
DUSIT
Understand
King Rama V was the first Thai monarch to visit Europe. He
was very impressed with what he had seen there, and came up
with some drastic ideas to make Bangkok ready for the 20th
century. Rattanakosin was a cramped district with many water-
ways, as opposed to Europe where broad avenues dominated
cities like Paris and London. King Rama V decided that most
of the original canals in Rattanakosin had to disappear in favor
of roads for horse carriages. But this was only the beginning;
King Rama V started designing a completely new district from
scratch that had to become the "new royal city", a district with
grandeur, wide avenues and a leafy, European feel. The result
of this process is Dusit.
The best example of this modernization process is the Dusit
Palace. It is a massive complex of royal residences and palaces
in many different styles, some of them with a European feel.
The Italian Renaissance-style Anantasamakhom Throne Hall
dominates the stage, and right in front of it in the middle of a
wide avenue stands the Rama V Equastrian Statue, a large stat-
ue of the King himself that is beautifully adorned with garlands
on Chulalongkorn Day (October 23). King Rama V is still popu-
lar among the Thai people and his modernization strategy is
credited with having saved Siam from Western colonization.
It is the seat of power to this day with nearly all of Thailand's de-
cision-making institutions within its boundaries. Near the Dusit
Palace is the National Assembly, a modern building that is the
parliament of the country. South of it lies the Venetian Goth-
ic-style Government House, which is mostly used for state cer-
emonies, and can only be visited once a year on Children's Day
(January 9). The Chitralada Palace, the official residence of HM
King Bhumibol Adulyadej, lies just east of the Dusit Palace.
A good day to catch the stately feel of the district is at Decem-
ber 2, when Dusit hosts the annual Trooping the Colour cer-
emony. Hundreds of officers of the Royal Guard demonstrate
their allegiance to the King by parading around Suan Amporn,
which is right next to Rama V's statue.
Dusit Understand
Get in
Map of Dusit
Dusit is not particularly easy to reach by public transport. The
Chao Phraya Express Boat serves the district, but it is still quite
a hike towards the Dusit Palace from the pier. There are plenty
of bus lines going through, but we all know what a hassle that
is. If you're too lazy to cope with this all, you might just want to
go by taxi, which is by far the easiest option.
By boat
You can enter Dusit using the Chao Phraya Express Boat ser-
vice. Thewet pier is technically just over the edge in Rat-
tanakosin, but is an excellent entry point into the southwestern
area of Dusit. From there, it is a 20 minutes walk to the Dusit
Palace.
Orange flag boats connect Thewet with Tha Chang pier (if
you're coming from the Grand Palace) and Phra Athit pier (if
you're coming from Khao San Road). From downtown, you can
take the Skytrain to Saphan Taksin station and transfer onto
the express boat. A single trip from Sathorn (Taksin) in Silom
to Thewet takes about 40 minutes and costs 13 baht. You can
take any express boat, as Thewet is one of the most important
stops in Rattanakosin, but the yellow flag line is the fastest one.
There are some other express boat piers in Dusit, but they are
far off the interesting sights.
By bus
If you're coming from the Old City, ordinary and air-condi-
tioned bus 70 runs directly to the Dusit Palace. Get on it at
Sanam Luang if you happen to be around the Grand Palace, or
get on at Ratchadamnoen Klang Road if you live around Khao
San Road. Get off outside the Royal Elephant National Museum
at Uthong Nai Road. To be sure, ask one the locals where to get
off, or you might go too far.
93
 Districts Dusit See

Vimanmek Mansion Museum

See
Belonging to the Vimanmek Mansion Museum are the residen-
tial halls that can be visited using the Vimanmek Mansion entry
Dusit Palace ticket. In order of visit:

Vimanmek Mansion (),

+66-2-628-6300. Touted as the world's largest golden teak
building, this palace was the home of King Rama V in the
early 20th century. It was originally a summer retreat on the
island of Ko Si Chang, but has been transported to Bangkok
in small parts in 1901. A guided tour is compulsory and tells
you all about the life of King Rama V, and about his collection
of fin de siecle royal memorabilia placed inside the build-
ing. As Rama V tried to modernize Thailand along European
lines, you can also see the first Thai indoor bathroom, the
first typewriter with Thai characters and some of the first
portrait paintings of Thailand.

Vimanmek Mansion

The Dusit Palace (Thai: ) , sometimes called

New Royal City, Dusit Park, Dusit Garden, or simply "Dusit", is a
complex of palaces and royal residences in the south of the
Dusit district. The palace was established by King Rama V, the
first Thai monarch to visit Europe. He was impressed by the roy-
al parks and residences he had seen there, which were leafy,
relaxed, spacious and cool, as opposed to the Grand Palace,
which was cramped with buildings for his numerous wives,
children and servants. These buildings blocked the air flow in-
side the Grand Palace, which turned the heat up remarkably.
As a substitute, King Rama V started building the Dusit Palace.

The main structure is the Vimanmek Mansion, touted as the
world's largest golden teakwood residence and the former
home of King Rama V. Get a ticket for 100 baht at the north-
western side of the palace grounds, or enter for free if you still
have the Grand Palace entry ticket (remains valid for a week).
You can visit all the museums on the palace grounds with one
ticket, except the Anantasamakhom Throne Hall and the Royal
Elephant National Museum which set back a separate 50 baht.
Keep in mind that the same dress codes apply here as in the
Grand Palace, so leave shorts and sleeveless shirts in your hotel
room. You must store your belongings in a locker before en-
tering each museum. It's free everywhere, except at the Viman-
mek Mansion, so if you're on a stringent budget, go to anoth-
er museum first and leave your belongings there. The palace
grounds are open from 9:30AM till 4PM, but the last (compulso-
ry) tour of the Vimanmek Mansion starts around 3:15PM. Some
of the smaller museums close at 3:30PM. Allow a full morning
and afternoon if you want to see all the buildings and muse-
ums. Also make sure you get a map when buying the ticket, as
the palace grounds are large and hard to navigate without a
map.
Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall
Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall (SUPPORT Museum). Built in the
year 1904, this beautiful hall was formerly used for royal
meetings and banquets. Its exterior is unique as it is clearly a
mix of Victorian and Islamic influences. Home to the largest
part of HM Queen Sirikit's SUPPORT Museum, it shows a col-
lection of handicraft masterpieces created by skillful people
from the countryside. Some of the items on show are hand-
bags, baskets, pots, jewelry, figurines and silk, all created us-
ing traditional techniques. HM Queen Sirikit set up this foun-
dation to preserve and revitalize these traditional Thai hand-
icrafts and techniques, as demand for them has significantly
lowered in modern Thai society.
H.M. King Bhumibol's Photographic Museum No. 2 (HRH
Princess Bussaban Bua-Phan Residential Hall). Besides being
the current King of Thailand, H.M. King Bhumibol Adulyadej
is also a photographer. Some of his works are on display in
this building, that used to be the residence of HRH Princess
Bussaban Bua-Phan, a sister of King Rama V. The collection
includes pictures of the King playing music and pictures

94
 Districts
showing HM Queen Sirikit and other members of the royal
family.
H.M. King Bhumibol's Photographic Museum No. 1 (HRH
Princess Arun-Wadi Residential Hall). This two-story-build-
ing was built by King Rama V for his sister HRH Princess Arun-
Wadi. The residence has been turned into a photo museum
showing pictures taken by the current King of Thailand, HM
King Bhumibol Adulyadej. The photos here show projects
HM King Bhumibol Adulyadej has supported to improve the
conditions of the people living in poorer parts of the coun-
try.
Ancient Clock Museum (HRH Princess Puang Soi Sa-Ang Res-
idential Hall). This is a two-story brick house that King Ra-
ma V built for his sister HRH Princess Puang Soi Sa-Ang. It is
close to the other three residential halls that were built for
his other sisters. The residence has been turned into a muse-
um displaying old clocks and timepieces. The ground floor
has 19th-century antique clocks on display from the Unit-
ed Kingdom, Germany and the United States. The rooms up-
stairs display an art collection, royal gifts and souvenirs of
King Rama V.
Ancient Cloth and Silk Museum (HRH Princess Orathai Thep
Kanya Residential Hall). This is the fourth royal residence Ra-
ma V has created for one of his sisters, and it is slightly larg-
er than the other three. It has been the residence of HRH
Princess Orathai Thep Kanya. Now there are plenty of rare
fabrics and textiles on display here that were used during
the reigns of King Rama IV and King Rama V. These textiles
are around 150 years old. The SUPPORT Foundation also has
modern pieces of textiles on show, which have been woven
using traditional methods, but come from the 21st-century.
Prehistoric Ban Chiang Pottery Museum (Krom Luang Vo-
rased Thasuda Residential Hall). This small brick building was
the home of Princess Bootri, a daughter of King Rama III.
King Rama V considered her his grandmother, as she raised
Princess Phra Thepsirin who is the mother of King Rama V.
Now it has prehistoric pottery from the Ban Chiang Archaeo-
logical Site on show here. This site in Northern Isaan was dis-
covered in 1966 by Stephan Young, and is considered one of
the most important prehistoric sites of Southeast Asia. The
artifacts on show are thus from a civilization that has existed
between 3600 BC and 200 AD.
Paraphernalia of High Rank Hall No. 1 (Suan Farang Kang-
sai Residential Hall). This is the former residence of Phra Raja
Jaya Dara Rasmi, the daughter of the Prince of Chiang Mai
and a consort of King Rama V. The building was complet-
ed in 1909. Now it displays some personal paraphernalia of
King Rama V, including oil paintings that are about 100 years
old. Other items on show are pottery from all over the world
(such as China, Germany and the United Kingdom) and old
European oil lamps.
Royal Ceremonial Photography Museum (Suan Hong Resi-
dential Hall). This two-story wooden building is the first one
Dusit See
you encounter if you enter the complex from its northern
entrance. It previously was the residence of Queen Savang
Vadhana, the grandmother of King Rama V. It now houses
photos and models of the royal barges that are used in the
beautiful Royal Barge Ceremony. If you want to see the royal
barges yourself, you can visit the Royal Barges National Mu-
seum in Thonburi.
Royal Carriage Museum (Royal Carriage Buildings No. 1 and
3). As King Rama V wanted to modernize Thailand along
European lines, he filled up many of the traditional canals
and turned them into roads, so horse carriages could be
used. It was recorded that 2698 horse carriages were used
in Bangkok by 1925. These buildings show off 23 royal car-
riages that have been used since the late 19th-century. The
museum has been opened in 1991 on the 60th birthday of
HM Queen Sirikit. It is the only museum where taking pic-
tures is allowed.
Paraphernalia of High Rank Hall No. 2. Another building that
houses a large collection of royal paraphernalia. On show is
a royal palanquin with four gables and an ornate roof and
palanquins that were used for the ladies of the court.
HM King Bhumibol Collection Museum No. 2 (Suan Bua Res-
idential Hall). The former residence of Princess Saisavali Bhi-
romya, the royal consort of King Chulalongkorn. On display
is a large collection of Buddha statues and photographs
from the reign of King Chulalongkorn. Gifts H.M. King Bhu-
mibol received on state visits to other countries can also be
seen.
The Presentation Hall (Suan Bua Plew). This hall features a
multimedia slideshow about the history of the Dusit Palace.
It also gives an overview of the different residential halls and
their exhibits, so you can more easily decide which ones you
want to visit. There's also a collection of pictures showing
the Vimanmek Mansion beautifully illuminated at night.
Pottery from Shipwrecks Museum (Tamnak Ho Residen-
tial Hall). Tamnak Ho was residence built in 1903 for the
wedding of Prince Paribatra Sukhumbandhu, the Prince of
Nakhon Sawan and son of King Rama V. It was originally
built within the grounds of the Bang Khun Phrom Palace, but
when the Bank of Thailand took office there, the building
was moved to the Sukhothai Palace in 1985. Another move
happened in 1998, when HM King Bhumibol Adulyadej dis-
mantled the building and moved it to the Dusit Palace. Now
the hall displays pottery from the Sukhothai and Ayutthaya
periods, which were recovered in 1976 from underwater
shipwrecks at the bottom of the Gulf of Thailand (at the coast
of the provinces of Rayong and Chantaburi). It is believed
that these ships were Chinese and Vietnamese trade junks
from the 15th to the 18th century.
HM King Bhumibol Collection Museum No. 1 (Suan Si Rue
Du Residential Hall). This hall is a former residence of HM
Queen Saovabha and HRH Princess Valaya Alongkorn, who
is HM King Bhumibol Adulyadej's aunt. The Princess Moth-
95
 Districts
er has also lived here in her childhood times. On display are
gifts and art objects HM King Bhumibol Adulyadej received
on the 50th anniversary of his ascension to throne in 1996.
HM King Bhumibol's Oil Paintings Museum (Suan Kularb Res-
idential Hall). This used to be the residence of HRH Prince
Asdang Dejavudh, a son of HM King Rama V and HM Queen
Saovabha. The Prince has lived here until his death in 1924.
Now it is a museum that set up a display of HM King Bhumi-
bol Adulyadej's oil paintings.
Separate entry fee
Anantasamakhom Throne Hall
Anantasamakhom Throne Hall (),
(behind the Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall),
+66-2-628-6300(-5119). 9:30AM-4PM daily, hols closed. This
Renaissance and neo-classical-style building was construct-
ed of Italian marble under the commission of King Rama V
in 1906. He had the intention to use it as a royal reception
and assembly hall. The construction was completed in the
reign of King Rama VI. The dome of the throne hall hous-
es picturesque frescoes of royal activities undertaken dur-
ing the reigns of King Rama I till King Rama VI. The building
serves as a venue for royal and state ceremonies and was
used as the National Assembly before it was moved to the
current building behind it. Currently it houses beautiful arts
and crafts made with traditional Thai techniques. 50 baht.
Royal Elephant National Museum (Changton National Muse-
um), Uthong Nai Rd (near the National Assembly inside the
Dusit Palace compound), +66-2-282-3336, . 9:30AM-4PM
daily, hols closed. At the site that used to house the royal
stables of the King's white elephants, since 1988 it is a mu-
seum about these extremely rare creatures. They are consid-
ered holy animals in Thailand, as a white elephant with six
tusks appeared in a dream to Buddha's mother when she
conceived her child. This museum tells you all about the his-
tory of white elephants in Thailand and the criteria an ele-
phant must meet in order to be considered a "royal white"
elephant. 5 baht.
Dusit Do
Parks and monuments
Dusit Zoo (), 71 Rama V Rd (between the
Dusit Palace and the Chitralada Palace), +66-2-281-2000, .
8AM-6PM daily. The zoo is an excellent destination for fam-
ilies and children. It is a lush and green zoo with many flow-
ers, trees and ponds. A fun activity is floating on the water
with the foot-peddle boats, or riding the small tram, but it
costs 60 baht more. There are many playgrounds and picnic
areas, as well as some restaurants in case you get hungry.
Oh yeah, and they also have animals, such as giraffes, zebras,
deer, hippos, elephants and tigers. 100 baht.
King Rama V Equestrian Statue (), Uthong
Nai Rd (at the Uthong Nai Road and Si Ayutthaya Road inter-
section). The entrance to the Dusit Palace is a gigantic mo-
torway with the statue of King Rama V (Chulalongkorn) rid-
ing a stallion right in the center. It is the first monument ded-
icated to a Thai king, completed in 1908 and inaugurated by
King Rama V himself. The monument is paid from public do-
nations, as the Thai people were grateful of Rama V's pursuit
of modernizing the country. Each year on December 5, the
Trooping of the Colors ceremony is held here. Free.
Do
You might want to visit one of the two daily traditional Thai
dance performances at the Dusit Palace. The shows start at
10AM and at 2PM and entry is free.
Royal Turf Club of Thailand (), 183 Phitsan-
ulok Rd, +66-2-280-0020(-9). Every two weeks on Sunday
12:30PM-6PM. This is a venue for horse races under royal pa-
tronage. Races are held every two weeks on Sunday. 50-100
baht.
Buy
There is not much in the way of shopping in Dusit, but there
are a few stores that might interest you.
Naga House, 315 Soi Ongkharak 13, Sam Sen Soi 28 (if com-
ing from the Thewet pier, walk onto Sam Sen Road in north-
wards direction; then take a right into Sam Sen Soi 28 (al-
so known as Soi Ongkarak); after a while, take a left into
Ongkarak Soi 13 and walk straight on), +66-2-669-3416.
This antiques store is set in a wonderful teak house from the
1920s. There is plenty of furniture on site, including silver-
ware baskets from Northern Thailand, teak tables from Chi-
na and lacquerware from Myanmar.
Thewet Market (), Krung Kasem Rd (right in
front of Thewet Pier). This pot plant market is along the bank
of Khlong Phadung Krung Kaseman. It has plenty of tropical
plants for sale, as well as the seeds so you can grow them
96
 Districts
yourself. You can buy one if you wish, but first check with
authorities whether you are allowed to import them to your
country! Even if you're not actually buying anything, it's still
nice to see this local market in action.
Eat
Dusit is not a district for splurge meals, but the river view makes
a beautiful setting. The guest houses also serve decent Thai
food (see Sleep).
In Love (formerly Chon-Ngern or Silver Spoon), 2/1 Krung
Kasem Rd (Thewet pier), +66-2-281-9228. 6PM-1AM daily.
This is an elegant restaurant with breathtaking nightly views
of the Rama VIII Bridge and the Chao Phraya river. As the
name indicates, many Thais go here to impress their loved
one, and so should you, as the atmosphere is very romantic.
Try the plaa kraphong neung manao, a delicious steamed
sea bass with lemon. 400 baht.
Kaloang Seafood, 2 Si Ayutthaya Rd (in the alley near
the National Library, it is right at the Chao Phraya riv-
er), +66-2-281-9228. 10AM-10PM daily. This off-the-beat-
en-track restaurant is typical Bangkokian with its simple
plastic chairs and unassuming interior. But its delicious
seafood is a bargain and you get a nice view over the Chao
Phraya River. The local favorite is the seafood platter, which
gives you a lot of value for a small price. You might also want
to try the yam pla duk foo, a spicy grilled fish salad, or the
larb goong, a spicy shrimp salad with banana blossoms. 200
baht.
Krua Apsorn (), 503-505 Sam Sen Rd (From (Thewet pier), +66-2-282-5942. Easily the best budget ho-
Thewet pier, turn left at Sam Sen Road, walk past the Na-
tional Library, pass the small canal and you will find it at the
left-hand side), +66-2-668-8788. M-F 10:30AM-7:30PM, Sa
10:30AM-6PM, Su closed. A great restaurant that places em-
phasis on its authentic Thai dishes prepared in a traditional
way. While it looks unpretentious at first, it has won the "best
restaurant" contest of Bangkok Post in 2006, and has served
members of the Thai royal family. The staff watch local soap
operas on the TV set and their children run around as if its
a kind of kindergarten; but forget the surroundings, it's all
about the food and a must try is the mouth-watering crab
omelette. 100-250 baht.
Drink
Don't expect any nightlife in Dusit for that, better head off
for nearby Khao San Road. If you just want to fresh up with a
glass of lemonade, the guest houses in the southwestern part
of Dusit suffice.
Dusit Eat
Sleep
The wide avenues with heavy traffic in Dusit are by no means
compelling places to stay the night. Most budget travellers
sleep in nearby Khao San Road, while upper class hotels can
be found in Sukhumvit. The adjacent Siam Square has some of
both worlds. If you do want to stay in Dusit, and with that try
something different, some small guest houses have congregat-
ed in the southwestern corner of the district, close to Thewet
pier.
Backpackers Lodge, 85 Si Ayutthaya Soi 14 (past Tavee
Guesthouse at the end of the soi), +66-2-282-3231. This is
a basic family-run guest house with clean and decent rooms.
As the name implies, it's really meant for backpackers on a
budget as it has a community area downstairs. It is in a real-
ly quiet location far off from any noise, that's why not a lot
of visitors seem to go here. They also have a restaurant with
the usual Thai and western dishes. Discounts are available if
you stay for a longer period of time. 200-250 baht.
Shanti Lodge, 37 Si Ayutthaya Soi 16 (walk towards the river
from the Sam Sen Road and Si Ayutthaya Road intersection),
+66-2-281-2497, . Decorated like a tropical "oasis", Shanti
Lodge is surrounded by plants and trees and feels like a tran-
quil environment in the middle of a big metropolis. Its loca-
tion is ideal, close to the river and to Rattanakosin. Expect
basic rooms though, that actually are quite noisy, and the
staff seems quite ignorant (even by Thai standards). There's
also a restaurant (7:30AM-11PM daily) and a Thai massage
available. 400-750 baht, dorms 200 baht per person.
Sri Ayutthaya Guest House, 23/11 Si Ayutthaya Soi 14
tel in Dusit. The atmosphere is homey as you stay in a sim-
ple house made of wood. It feels kind of tranquil; while there
are other backpackers around, it really is in a local neigh-
borhood with Thai families. Rooms are obviously basic, but
good, and if you choose an air-conditioned room you also
get a good bathroom. Like the other guest houses, there is
a restaurant downstairs with Thai, western and vegetarian
food. 500-700 baht.
Suan Dusit Place Hotel, 295 Nakhon Ratchasima Rd (in-
side the Suan Dusit Rajabhat University complex, at the
Nakhon Ratchasima Road and Ratchawithi Road intersec-
tion), +66-2-241-7571, . This is a basic hotel, but it is clean
and probably the closest hotel to the Vimanmek Mansion. It
mostly caters to local teachers, students and convention at-
tendees who want to stay near the Suan Dusit Rajabhat Uni-
versity. That's why the staff's English is not that good, but
at least they try their best. The restaurant serves good Thai
meals and is not too expensive. 900 baht.
Tavee Guesthouse, 83 Si Ayutthaya Soi 14 (walk towards the
river from the Sam Sen Road and Si Ayutthaya Road intersec-
tion), +66-2-280-1447. Simple budget hotel with clean and
tidy rooms. There's a nice common space with wooden fur-
97
 Districts Dusit Contact

niture and a restaurant that is open 24 hours a day. 300-450

baht, dorms 120 baht per person.

Contact
National Library (), Sam Sen Rd,
+66-2-281-5212, . M-F 9AM-7:30PM, Sa-Su 9AM-5PM. Inter-
net access for all visitors limited for just one hour. You must
complete a form and deposit your passport to the library
staff. Also, games, chat and USB-devices are officially not al-
lowed. Free.

98
 Districts Thonburi Understand

As sailing times quickened, Bangcok became a tax collection

THONBURI port and customs office for foreign traders sailing to Ayut-
thaya. In 1665, King Narai the Great ordered the construction of
Vichaiyen Fort near the mouth of the Bangkok Yai canal to pro-
tect Ayutthaya from foreign invasions. This fort is now known
Understand as the Vichaiprasit Fort and can still be seen from the Chao
Phraya Express Boat today. With it, the village got the status
of fortified city and was renamed Thonburi. When the city of
Ayutthaya was burnt to the ground by Burmese armies in 1767,
General Taksin was in charge of the resistance. A capable mil-
itary leader, he conquered back Siam within a year and took
hold of large parts of Southeast Asia in the following decade.
He became King of Siam and established Thonburi as the new
capital of the country. He created his palace close to the fort,
while the residence of General Phraya Chakri (who would lat-
er become King Rama I) was near the current location of Wat
Rakhang.

In 1779, King Taksin had proclaimed himself a sotapanna (or

divine figure), striking against the will of the powerful Buddhist
monkhood. The state was in economic turmoil, there was ram-
pant corruption and famine struck the country. King Taksin
tried to maintain order with harsh punishment and purges.
When General Phraya Chakri was fighting out a war with Cam-
bodia, a rebellion took hold of Thonburi, forcing King Taksin to
step down. Shortly after, he was secretly executed. When Gen-
eral Phraya Chakri returned, he was offered the throne and be-
came King Rama I, the first King of the Chakri dynasty. He made
Rattanakosin the new capital of Siam, as he believed that city
would be easier to defend against foreign invasions. This was
the end of a brief era now known as the Thonburi Period. It
wasn't the end of "Bangcok" foreigners never adapted to the
changes and kept using the name, even for the eastern bank
of the Chao Phraya River while that is technically incorrect.

Thonburi stayed relatively undeveloped, especially compared

The old course of the Chao Phraya river and its current course to its neighbor at the other side of the river. The economy
was mostly agricultural-based with fruit orchards crisscrossed
Originally, "Bangcok" referred to a village in the area that today
by canals. Many durian species have originated in Thonburi,
roughly corresponds to the neighborhoods of Bangkok Noi
including mon thong, chanee and kan yao. Most of the fruit
and Bangkok Yai. At that time, the Chao Phraya river had a com-
orchards have disappeared as Thonburi became more devel-
pletely different course than it does today. The Chao Phraya
oped. It wasn't until 1932 when Thonburi became physically
had a horseshoe shape that is similar to the current course of
linked to Bangkok for the first time with the construction of
the Bangkok Noi and Bangkok Yai canals. One theory on the
the Memorial Bridge. Thonburi's distinct identity only held out
origin of the name is that Bangcok came from "Bang Ko", which
for forty more years, when it was incorporated into the city of
means "island village" in Thai, referring to the village that was
Krung Thep (Bangkok) in 1971.
almost completely surrounded by the Chao Phraya river. Bang-
cok was the first part of Thonburi to be settled, as its location
was a convenient storage point for trade ships that sailed north
towards Ayutthaya. The horseshoe shape of the Chao Phraya
river slowed down trading ships, and in 1542, a small canal was
dug across the base of the meander to shorten sailing time. The
strength of the current eroded the canal's banks, and over time
the new canal became the main course of river. Bangcok was
on the east bank of the old course of the river, but on the west
bank of the new course.

99
 Districts Thonburi Get in

baht. If you're visiting Wat Arun, head for Tha Tien pier at the
Get in Rattanakosin side and embark take the Wat Arun ferry service.
Other notable ferry services are from Tha Chang to Wang Lang
and from Tha Phra Chan to Wang Lang.

By public transit
Most travelers will visit Thonburi as a day-trip from Khao San
Road, Sukhumvit or Silom. After nearly ten years of delays, the
BTS Skytrain connection to Thonburi finally opened in May
2009. The only two stations on the Thonburi side (Wongwian
Yai and Krung Thonburi) aren't near anything particularly in-
teresting though. The best way to get into Thonburi is by get-
ting off the Skytrain at Saphan Taksin station, near the end of
the Silom Line, and taking the Chao Phraya Express Boat up the
river.

By bus
Getting into Thonburi by bus is very complicated, so only use
city buses as a last resort. Bus travel is necessary to reach some
destinations though, such as the Taling Chan Floating Market.
If heading there, take ordinary and air-conditioned bus 79 from
Ratchadamnoen Klang Road, which is near Khao San Road.
Make sure you take the bus into the right direction (crossing
the river) and ask local passengers when to get off or you might
get lost.

Get around
Thonburi is a vast district, and getting around it is not easy. The
area can hardly be explored on foot, as sights are spread far
off throughout the district, most of the main roads are heavily
congested with commuters and the area is lacking foot bridges
over its numerous canals. This is why most travelers take a canal
tour (see the Do-section). But this doesn't mean the area can-
Map of Thonburi not be experienced on your own at all most of the roads
can be walked on, and footbridges do exist, just don't say you
By boat haven't been warned.

The easiest way to get into Thonburi is by boat. The Chao

Phraya Express Boat goes up and down the river for 13 baht.
Sometimes cashiers want you to buy the ticket before embark-
ing the boat, but it is allowed to buy tickets inside. If going
north from Sathorn (Taksin) pier (from Silom), the first pier on
the Thonburi side is Wang Lang. It's the easiest point of entry as
all lines stop there and the Wang Lang area is one of the more
interesting ones in Thonburi. If you're heading south from Phra
Athit pier (from Khao San Road), Wang Lang is the second pier
on the Thonburi side. When you're heading for the Royal Barge
National Museum, disembark at the Phra Pin Klao Bridge pier.

There are also numerous ferries crossing the river from the Rat-
tanakosin and Silom sides. Many Bangkok commuters make
use of these ferries, as they quickly cross the river for only 3

100
 Districts
See
Wat Arun
Beautifully decorated with broken Chinese porcelain pieces
Wat Arun (), also known as the Temple of Dawn, is an Santa Cruz Church (Wat Kudichin), 112 Tesaban 1 Road
iconic temple at the west bank of the Chao Phraya river, right
next to the Navy Base. This is a royal temple in the highest
rank and it is by far the most visited tourist attraction in Thon-
buri. It is easily accessible with the three-baht ferry boat from
Wat Pho in Rattanakosin. Ferries take off about every 10 to 15
minutes and operate daily from 6AM till about 10PM. Walking
around the temple gardens and looking at it from a distance is
free, but if you want to enter the temple compound and climb
the steep stairs, it costs 50 baht (for foreigners at least). Enter-
ing the complex can be recommended, as otherwise you won't
see the small porcelain pieces it is decorated with. The temple
grounds are opened from 7:30AM till 5:30PM. Thousands of for-
eign tourists visit the temple everyday, many of them by canal
tour early in the morning.
A temple has occupied this site since the Ayutthaya period.
It was first named Wat Makok, which means "Olive Temple",
named after the many olive orchards in the area. After the fall
of Ayutthaya, General Taksin was at war trying to conquer Si-
am back from Burmese armies. When he arrived in Thonburi in
the morning, he reputedly saw this magnificent temple during
sunrise. Since then, the temple got the name Wat Chaeng or
Wat Arun, which means the Temple of Dawn. Wat Arun served
as King Taksin's royal temple and was inside the Wang Derm
Palace grounds, his personal residence. In the Thonburi Period,
Wat Arun housed the recaptured Emerald Buddha for several
years, before it was moved to the Grand Palace in Rattanakosin
in 1785. In the Rattanakosin-era, Wat Arun lost its special status
to Wat Phra Kaew in the Grand Palace, but it remained one of
the most iconic temples of Thailand. It is featured prominently
on ten-baht coins and as the logo of the Tourist Authority of
Thailand (TAT).
The magnificent main prang is in Thai called the Phra Prang
Wat Arun. Overlooking the Chao Phraya river, it is not only the
Thonburi See
symbol of Thonburi, but a world-famous landmark and one
of the most photographed icons of Thailand. The prang was
originally built during the Ayutthaya period and is in a clas-
sic Ayutthayan style. It was reconstructed and enlarged dur-
ing the reign of King Rama II, and was completely finished in
the reign of King Rama III. The height is reported by different
sources to be between 66 and 86 meters. It was the tallest struc-
ture in Bangkok until the advent of the modern skyscraper. The
main prang and its four satellite prangs are beautifully decorat-
ed with colorful broken Chinese porcelain pieces. It is believed
that these broken porcelain pieces come from Chinese trade
ships that were shipwrecked at sea.
Steep steps lead up to two terraces that surround the prang.
From there, you have a nice view of the Chao Phraya river with
the Grand Palace, Wat Pho and even downtown if you look far
enough. Beside the famous central prang, be sure to take a look
at the main chapel, the image hall, the Chinese style bell tower,
and the open pavilions overlooking the river.
Houses of worship
(use the boardwalk; it is between Memorial Bridge and Wat
Kalayanamit), +66-2-466-0347. The Santa Cruz Church is
an interesting Catholic church right at the banks of the Chao
Phraya river. After the fall of Ayutthaya by a Burmese inva-
sion, King Taksin commanded that the peoples who escaped
had to settle down in Thonburi, the new capital of Siam. The
King dictated that the Chinese group had to settle down
around the area of Wat Kalayanamit, while the Portuguese
people would have their houses built along the bank of the
Chao Phraya river. The Portuguese had given military sup-
port to King Taksin to help him drive out the Burmese from
Siam. In recognition of their support, King Taksin granted
the Portuguese a plot of land for the building of a church.
The first Santa Cruz Church was a wooden church built in
1770. When that church got into a state of decay, a new
Chinese-style church was built here, as it was nearby the
Chinese community that stayed at Wat Kalayanamit. That
church was called "Kudichin church" (Chinese church), and
the Portuguese who settled here were called "Farang Ku-
dichin", which means "Westerners at the Chinese shrine". In
1916, the third and current Santa Cruz Church was built dur-
ing the reign of King Rama IV. The church has a magnificent
Italian-style architecture. The community around it still feels
authentic, and is the birthplace of a famous kind of cupcake,
the "Khanom Farang Kudichin".
Wat Kalayanamit, 656 Tesaban 1 Rd (walk over the board-
walk from the Memorial Bridge, or take the ferry from Pak Kh-
long Talat pier). Situated on the mouth of Bangkok Yai canal
at the west bank of the Chao Phraya, this massive temple is
popular among the Thai-Chinese community. It was found-
ed in 1825 by a Chinese nobleman who donated his own
residence and bought a piece of land to built a temple. This
was during the reign of King Rama III, when trade with Chi-
101
 Districts
na was flourishing. The viharn is in a typical Thai style, but
the two flanking buildings look Chinese. Inside the viharn
is a large Buddha image named Phraputtatrirattananayok,
which is 15.44 meter tall and 11.75 meter wide. It is so large
that it almost entirely filled the interior of the hall. The im-
age is called Sampokong by worshippers of Thai-Chinese
descent. The inner courtyard is decorated with statues and
gates imported from China. Every day during the Chinese
New Year festival, this temple is crowded with thousands of
Thai-Chinese visitors.
Wat Prayoon, as seen from the Memorial Bridge
Wat Prayoon (Wat Prayurawongsawas), Thesaban Sai 1 (take
the express boat to the Memorial Bridge pier and cross the
Memorial Bridge on foot), +66-2-465-5592. 9AM-4:30PM
daily. This temple is close to the banks of the Chao Phraya
river. The first thing you see is its large white chedi in Ayut-
thayan style; it is the only chedi of this style in Bangkok. King
Rama II tried to create a similar chedi at the Golden Mount,
but the ground could not support it and that chedi col-
lapsed. If you want a nice nightly picture of the chedi, walk
on the Memorial Bridge at dusk when the chedi is beautifully
illuminated. However, most visitors come from the Khao Mor
Cemetery, a large mound at the entrance of the temple. The
mound is covered with many different shrines, chedis, spirit
houses and even a doll house. There's a lot to take in, but its
certainly a fun walk. The shallow pool has some turtles swim-
ming around, which you can feed with food bought from the
stalls outside. Another attraction is the small museum with
only two rooms, having Khon masks, papier-mache pigs and
other cultural objects on display. 30 baht.
Wat Rakhang (also known as the Temple of the Bells, and
formerly known as Wat Bang Wa Yai), Trok Wat Rakhang,
250 Arun-Amarin Road (take the ferry from Tha Chang pier
to Wat Rakhang pier), +66-2-418-1079. 6AM-6PM daily.
This temple was built during the Ayutthaya period, later it
was reconstructed and upgraded as a royal temple by King
Taksin. The temple was named the "Temple of the Bells" due
to the discovery of a huge bell at this temple in the reign
of King Rama I. This significant temple was the residence of
many supreme patriarchs of the Rattankosin period, includ-
Thonburi Do
ing Somdej Toah, a highly respected monk in the reign of
King Rama V. Things of note are the beautiful mural paint-
ings in the ordination hall, the image hall and the bell tow-
er. Outside is a row of bells lined up. It is believed that ring-
ing all of them in a row will bring good luck. The front of the
building is right at the banks of the Chao Phraya river, and it
is beautifully lit at nighttime. Free.
Wat Suwannaram, 33 Charan Sanitwong Rd (at the banks
of the Bangkok Noi canal). This is a big royal temple on the
banks of the Bangkok Noi canal. It was built during the reign
of King Rama I and renovated during the reign of King Ra-
ma III. Inside are exceptional murals depicting the Jutaku,
deities and the Buddha in subduing Mara posture. These
works of art of the early Rattanakosin period (early 19th cen-
tury) are considered some the best survived mural paintings
in Bangkok. One particularly interesting mural is a Dutch
person holding a telescope. At that time, the Dutch were as-
sociated with modern inventions that were very popular in
Siam. Unfortunately, the temple is often closed, so it is hard
to actually see the murals.
Do
Canal tour
Buy
Floating markets
Klong Lad Mayom Floating Market, Bang Ramat Rd (next to
Lad Mayom canal; from the Southern Bus Terminal, go south
along Phutthamonthon Sai 1 Road for 2 km, then take a right
into Bang Ramat Road (at the Bang Ramat Market) and con-
tinue your way for 1,5 km). Su 9:30AM-4PM, M-Sa closed.
This is a major attraction, with a pleasant and shaded atmos-
phere. The floating market corresponds to both sides of the
Lat Mayom canal on Bang Ramat Road. This relatively new
floating market dates from November 2004, and is not fre-
quently visited by boats. However, it does have many shop
stalls, a small boat museum, several walking paths around
the market, small restroom facilities, a few outdoor restau-
rants, and a variety of foods and merchandise for sale. Oc-
casionally, it does feature live outdoor performances by lo-
cal children or organizations. It is only open on Sundays
and easily accessible (and used as a prolonged stopover) on
some tourist tour boats from Taling Chan Floating Market.
102
 Districts Thonburi Eat

Bus Terminal. Just walk down Phuttamonthon Sai 1 Road and

you will find plenty of restaurants, especially at the intersec-
tion with Ban Suan Phutthamonthon Road and the intersec-
tion with Wat Kaeo-Phutthamonthon Sai 1 Road. They offer tra-
ditional Thai cuisine, Thai and Western-style desserts and re-
freshments. Most delicacies on sale won't cost you more than
25 baht.

Central Plaza Pinklao is a good alternative if you're looking for

mid-ranged chain restaurants, such as Yayoi and Sizzlers, or
even the usual Western fast food chains. If you're elsewhere in
Thonburi, hawker stalls are all over the district, as are 7-Eleven
convenience stores.

Ruam Tai, 375/4 Phran Nok Rd (From Wang Lang pier,

Taling Chan Floating Market
Taling Chan Floating Market (), Chak Phra
Rd (take bus 79 from either Ratchadamnoen Klang Road
or Siam Square), +66-2-424-1742. Sa-Su 7AM-5PM, M-F
closed. This major attraction along Chak Phra canal is held
every weekend. It is more convenient than taking a canal trip
to Wat Sai and also feels more authentic and fun. It blends
a rural market with the canal side way of life. The vendors,
who are in fact local farmers, take their products including
plants, vegetables, fruits, fish and various kinds of food to
this market for sale. There are also floating food shops and
a private-run canal tour service for visitors who enjoy the
district's canal side way of life. It is accessible by car and bus,
not too far from Bangkok's Southern Bus Terminal. Free.
Wat Sai Floating Market (), 11 Moo 2,
Ekkachai Rd (take a canal tour from Tha Chang pier; can
also be visited with bus 43 and 120 from Wongwien Yai).
6AM-9PM daily. This floating market along Khlong Sanam
Chai used to be a popular tourist site for visitors to admire
the traditional canal side way of life. Unfortunately, con-
struction of new roads within the area left the floating mar-
ket abandoned. It was recently revived, though it does not
feel as authentic as it used to. It is still interesting to book a
canal tour along this historic waterway, and enjoy the float-
ing market that is crowded with boats that have farm pro-
duced products for sale. Free.
Eat
If you want to eat like the locals, or if you are on a budget, head
for Wang Lang Market. The main roads and their side streets
are filled with plenty of unnamed restaurants and simple carts
selling meals for less than 50 baht. It is known as one of the
best places in Thailand to get food from Southern Thailand. The
story goes that Southern Thais settled in this area as trains from
the south used to arrive at the Thonburi Train Station nearby.
The Bang Ramat area has plenty of cheap budget eateries as
well, very convenient in case you're waiting at the Southern
walk through Phran Nok Road, cross Arun-Amarin Road and
keep on walking till the intersection with Soi Watthana),
+66-2-411-0842. 6AM-8PM daily. This is a typical street
restaurant that is good for trying some Southern Thai cook-
ing. You might want to consider the gaeng som, a sour and
thick vegetable soup. Diagonally across is Dao Tai, anoth-
er Southern Thai restaurant. Both of these restaurants on-
ly have Thai signs and menus, so you might want to use a
phrasebook. 50 baht.
Supatra River House, 266 Soi Wat Rakhang (there is a free
ferry service directly from Maharaj pier in Rattanakosin),
+66-2-411-0305, . 11:30 AM-2:30PM, 6PM-10:30PM daily.
This luxury restaurant is in the traditional Thai residence of
Khunying Supatra Singholaga, a successful businesswoman
who started the express boat service in Bangkok and a
leading figure in women rights. There is a small museum
dedicated to her art collection inside the building. On the
menu are Thai and seafood dishes, so you might want to try
the fried river prawn with tamarind sauce. There is a great
view of the Chao Phraya River, especially at night when the
Grand Palace is beautifully lit. Thai dance shows are given on
Saturday nights at 8:30PM. Make a reservation beforehand.
1000-2000 baht.
Yok Yor Marina and Restaurant ( ),
885 Somdet Chao Phraya Soi 17 (across the river from Ma-
rine Department pier), +66-2-863-0565(-6), . 11AM-mid-
night daily. You can sit at the open air terrace along the Chao
Phraya river or inside with air-conditioning and live music.
On the menu is seafood, including oysters, fish and shellfish.
Most of the visitors are local Thais, at it is at the Thonburi
bank, but more and more foreigners seem to get to know it.
The only downer is the karaoke machine and loud TV, some-
times used by locals ruining the atmosphere. 400 baht.
Zoom4 Zoom5, 1F, Wang Lang Rd (at Wang Lang pier),
+66-2-226-1745. 4PM-10PM daily. This cheap restaurant is
highly recommended for its cheap menus and great view
over the Chao Phraya river. When it is dark, Bangkok's high-
lights along the river are well-lit, such as the Grand Palace,
Wat Arun and Wat Kalayanamit. It is self-service, so you must
walk to the counter yourself and order. After it, you should
also get the glasses yourself and fill them up with ice cubes

103
 Districts Thonburi Drink

(if you want). The menu is in English, make sure to try the
fried rice with maggie sauce and fried chicken (or fish) or the
fried rice with thai chili paste and fried chicken. If you have
a big appetite, also order the fried minced shrimp cakes. It's
good. 40-70 baht.

Drink
Do not expect a big nightlife scene in Thonburi for that, the
other districts in Bangkok do a better job. There are some dive
bars spread over the area, but most of them aren't really inter-
esting unless you want to experience how the locals go out.
There are plenty of coffeehouses that serve coffee, tea or iced
chocolate.

Taling Bar, Wang Lang Rd (Wang Lang pier, take a left when
leaving from the pier). 5PM-1AM daily. This is a simple and
small chill-out bar with views over the Chao Phraya River.
At night, the Grand Palace is beautifully lit. You could take
a beer or cocktail at this pub before heading for Khao San
Road. It's not that special, but it's a genuine way to get a taste
of Thonburi's nightlife. Free fried peanuts are offered, and
sometimes there is live music. You can also have dinner in
the evening.

The Peninsula
Sleep
Ibrik Resort by the River, 256 Soi Wat Rakang (next to Pa-
travadi Theatre), +66-2-848-9220, . A luxury boutique re-
sort with only three private double rooms. Each room is
beautifully decorated in a chic style with modern white walls
and wooden floors. Two of the rooms offer a view over the
Chao Phraya river. It is a good way to escape the chaos of the
city, yet it is only a 15-minute ferry ride to the Grand Palace.
Breakfast included. 4000 baht.
Marriott Resort and Spa, 257 Charoennakorn Rd (near Krung
Thep Bridge), +66-2-476-0022, . The Mariott is one of the
best hotels in Bangkok. Its off-central location is actually a
downer, but it does bring a relaxed ambiance that makes it
feel like a resort hotel. Also, there are shuttle boats to BTS
Saphan Taksin station, so you still get to downtown relative-
ly quickly. Rooms are magnificent, there's a tranquil pool and
a good breaskfast. 6000-11,000 baht.
Millennium Hilton, 123 Charoennakorn Rd (at the oth-
er side of the river from River City shopping mall),
+66-2-442-2000, . Obviously a very luxury hotel at the Chao
Phraya river, offering a working desk, living room, high-
speed internet, two LCD televisions, jacuzzi, rain shower and
pool. There's a shuttle boat to River City pier and BTS Saphan
Taksin station. 5000-10,000 baht.
Peninsula Bangkok, 333 Charoennakorn Rd (at the other side
of the river from Oriental Hotel), +66-2-861-2888, . Just
across the river from the Oriental hotel, this is a worthy com-
petitor for being one of the world's best hotels. Prices are a
little more sensible than the Oriental though, but still usually
above US$200. There's a free shuttle service to BTS Saphan
Taksin station and River City pier. 13,000-120,000 baht.
River Side Bangkok, 195 Ratchawithi Rd (slightly south of
Krung Thon Bridge), +66-2-883-1588(-20), . This two-star
hotel has 262 "superior" and "deluxe" rooms. Rooms are fully
equipped with modern facilities and some include a room-
service breakfast. Many of the rooms have a nice view over
the Chao Phraya river. 800-2500 baht.
The Royal City Hotel, 800 Borommaratchachonnani Rd
(about 500 meters further down the road from Central Plaza
Pinklao), +66-2-435-8888, . This is a decent hotel near
Central Plaza Pinklao. Rooms are spacious, comfortable and
clean, but also quite old, dark and uninspiring. Facilities are
plentiful, including a pool, fitness and massage. The staff
is really nice and helpful. There is not that much to do in
the area though, except for the nearby 7-Eleven. 2200-2600
baht.
The Royal River Hotel, 219 Charan Sanitwong, 66/1 Cha-
ran Sanitwong Rd (slightly north of Krung Thon Bridge),
+66-2-422-9222, . This is a good hotel near the Krung Thon
Bridge. Rooms are large, comfortable and clean. The deluxe
rooms of this hotel have a big balcony with a nice view over

104
 Districts Thonburi Contact

the river. It is relaxed to splash into the pool after a hot day
of temple tramping. 2200-2700 baht.

Contact
Finding a place to go online is not an easy task in Thonburi. It
is mostly a residential neighborhood and most Thais have an
internet connection at home. You might want to ask around
with the locals. There are some Internet cafes along Phran Nok
Road, such as The Corner CoffeeShop & Internet near the Wang
Lang area.

The Corner CoffeeShop & Internet, 203 Phran Nok Rd

(at the corner of Phran Nok Rd and Arun-Amarin Rd),
+66-2-411-2071. 8AM-7PM daily. Surf the web from one of
the three terminals. You can also get a cup of coffee or iced
chocolate especially nice with some cream. A big down-
side is the noisy speedway outside ruining the atmosphere.
15 baht/hour.

Get out
Take the train from Thonburi's Wongwian Yai Station to the
fishing village of Maha Chai. Trains leave hourly and the trip
takes about one hour. The train ride is an attraction in it-
self, with plenty of orchards, vegetable plantations, and co-
conut groves to see. Maha Chai is a great destination for fresh
seafood. If you wish, you can even continue your trip to Samut
Songkhram from there.

Drive 15 kilometers west along Phetkasem Road for the Rose

Garden in Nakhon Pathom. Get away from the hustle and bus-
tle of Bangkok and experience the Thai rural way of life with
beautiful gardens and orchards. It is a retreat into a peaceful
environment, except at 2PM when the tour buses and coaches
kick in for the daily Thai Village Cultural Show (worth it though).

105
 Districts Pratunam Understand

Get in
PRATUNAM
Understand
The southern boundary of Pratunam is marked by the Saen
Saep Canal. This canal was dug during the reign of King Rama
III in the mid-nineteenth century to connect the Chao Phraya
River with the Bang Pakong River to the east. When Saen Saep
was connected with Maha Nak Canal and Krung Kasem Canal,
a gate was required to control the water level between them.
Pratunam literally means "water gate". It was not developed
until the 1960s when rice fields dominated the landscape as far
as the eye could see. Around that time, a fresh produce market
was set up near the Indra Hotel at Ratchaprarop Road. Since
then more markets have set up here, and the whole area has
become known as a local marketplace.

Now Pratunam is often referred to as "northern downtown", a

title it rightly deserves after the construction of Baiyoke Tower
II. Just taking the lift up the tower is an experience not to be
missed. More than 300 meters high and counting 88 stories, it
is Thailand's tallest building for now at least, as a taller res-
idential tower is already under construction in Jomtien. It is a
distinctive feature of Bangkok's skyline and represents the ris-
ing economy of both Pratunam and Thailand as a whole. Sur-
rounding it are plenty of other residential towers and hotels
trying to make a buck out of the central location.

But the street markets have never disappeared. Fresh produce

has made way for fashion wear, textiles and accessories, but
they are still sold at strictly local prices. Endless small alleyways
are packed with literally thousands of fashion stores, and they
are so cheap because most of them actually sell at wholesale
rates. In the north of the district lies Victory Monument, a large
military monument that now functions as a major traffic hub.
The area became a popular residential neighborhood for lo-
Map of Pratunam
cals and expats working in downtown. It is particularly lively af-
ter dusk, when there is a busy night market and an active jazz
scene. By public transit
Skytrain
Centrally located, Pratunam is well-covered by the Sukhumvit
Line of the BTS Skytrain. From Ratchathewi BTS station in the
south of Pratunam, it is only a 15 minutes walk to the cen-
ter of the action (the intersection of Phetchaburi Road and
Ratchaprarop Road). Phaya Thai covers the central area of the
district, while Victory Monument is located in the north. At
Phaya Thai BTS station, you can switch onto the ARL, but as the
systems are not integrated, you will have to buy a new ticket.

Airport Rail Link

After many years of delays, the Airport Rail Link finally opened
in August 2010. From Suvarnabhumi Airport, the Express Line
skips all stations and brings you directly to Makkasan. This ride

106
 Districts Pratunam See

takes about 15 minutes and costs 150 baht. Trains run every
30 minutes from 6AM till midnight. From Makkasan, you can
See
continue your way by metro at Phetchaburi MRT station.

If you want to reach Ratchaprarop or Phaya Thai stations, that

are more centrally located in Pratunam, you will need to take
the City Line. Reaching Phaya Thai from Suvarnabhumi Airport
takes about 30 minutes and sets you back 40 baht. At Phaya
Thai, you can transfer onto the Skytrain and continue your way.

Besides just using it as an airport link, it is also a fine train just

to get around. Ratchaprarop is the closest station to Pratunam
and the Baiyoke Tower II. As you leave that station, make sure
you cross the ground level railway line (which is on the same
side as you come in from the airport) and keep walking in that
direction. There is a sign saying "Baiyoke Hotels" nearby. Pratu-
nam is some 500 meters on the right hand side. You walk under
an overhead walkway as you come close to the area.

By boat
If you're staying at Khao San Road, the Saen Saep Express Boat
is your best bet to get to Pratunam. It is only a short walk to Pan-
fa Leelard pier, near the Golden Mount in Rattanakosin, where
you can get on the boat. Just step on the next boat and wait for
it to have enough passengers on board. Stay put, as this will be
a rough ride! Pratunam pier is actually the interchange pier of
the network and right in the middle of the action. It is easy to
know when you have arrived, as Pratunam pier last stop of the
Golden Mount Line, so everyone has to disembark. You can al-
so get off one stop earlier, at Sapan Hua Chang, for Ratchathewi
intersection and the BTS station of the same name. A single trip
takes about 25 minutes and costs 9 or 11 baht.
By bus
Pratunam is one of the best-connected districts, so bus trav-
el in general is unnecessary. An exception to this rule is the
Grand Palace area in Rattanakosin. Bus 60 leaves from the east-
ern side of Sanam Luang (Ratchadamnoen Nai Road), pass-
es Ratchadamnoen Klang Road (for Khao San Road) and then
heads off to Lan Luang Road and Phetchaburi Road. You can
get off anywhere you want along Phetchaburi Road, as it cov-
ers most of the district. After Phetchaburi Road, it goes north-
east along Ramkhamhaeng Road.
By foot
You wouldn't expect it, but Pratunam is easily reachable on
foot. It is only a 500 meters walk north from Ratchaprasong in-
tersection (near Siam Square). You will walk along many luxuri-
ous malls and hotels, knowing the goods you will buy in Pratu-
nam will be much more competitively priced.
Baiyoke Tower II
There is not particularly much to see in Pratunam, unless you
happen to be interested in generic-looking concrete buildings.
The Phaya Thai Palace does make a nice visit if you happen to
be free on a Saturday, and going atop Baiyoke Tower II gives
breathtaking views of the city's skyline.
Baiyoke Tower II Observatory and Revolving Roofdeck
( 2), 77-84F, Baiyoke Tower II, 222 Ratchaprarop Rd
(ARL Ratchaprarop), +66-2-656-3000, . M-F 10:30AM-1AM,
Sa-Su 9:30AM-1AM. Currently the tallest tower in Thailand
(though not for long as a taller building is in the works in Pat-
taya), the 304-meter-tall Baiyoke Tower II mainly has a resi-
dential purpose. There's an observatory behind a huge win-
dow at the 77th floor and a revolving roofdeck outside at
the 84th floor. The revolving roofdeck is practical for viewing
different parts of the city, but not so handy if you're trying
to make some quality pictures of the city's skyline. It is best
to visit right before dusk and watch the sun go down from
the tower. Afterwards, you can visit the Rooftop Bar at the
83rd floor, which has a very romantic atmosphere and can
best be recommended for couples or those in love. You can
sit beside a huge window that gives a good view over the
city, and professional bands perform nightly. Be early as the

107
 Districts Pratunam Do

seats fill up quickly after dark. 200 baht, includes one (alco-
holic) drink and popcorn.
Bangkok Dolls Museum
(), 85 Soi Ratchat- "victory" a little hollow. These days this spiky Bangkok land-
aphan (Soi Mo Leng) (ARL Ratchaprarop), +66-2-245-3008.
M-Sa 8AM-5PM, Su closed. This museum was established by
Khunying Tongkorn Chandavimol in 1956 after completing
a course on doll making at the Osawa Doll School in Tokyo.
Her intention with this project was to establish a workshop
where hand-made dolls could be created using local materi-
als, and to establish a museum that would promote the Thai
doll industry. A part of the workshop is devoted to a private
collection of about 400 dolls from around the world. These
can be grouped in several categories, including Khon dolls,
hill tribe dolls, Thai rural dolls and Khon mask miniatures.
Free.
Phaya Thai Palace (), 315 Ratchawithi Rd (BTS Vic- Calypso Cabaret ( ), B1, Asia Hotel Bldg,
tory Monument), +66-2-354-7660(-93698 on Saturdays,
-93646 on weekdays). Sa 9:30AM and 1:30PM, M-F by ap-
pointment only. The Phaya Thai Palace has been built by
King Rama VI, who lived here from 1919 for the last years of
his reign. After his death, the palace turned into one of the
most luxurious hotels in Southeast Asia, a radio station and a
military hospital. The palace is worth seeing, as there is a lot
to take in. The most important building, the Phiman Chakri
Hall, is made in a beautiful Art Nouveau style with silk wall-
papers and ornate murals. Every Saturday, volunteers give
two free guided tours through the palace that take about
two hours. Technically it is also possible to visit the palace
on weekdays, but you must call ahead to make an appoint-
ment and pay 500 baht. Alternatively, you could sip a coffee
at Caf de Norasingh, which is housed in the royal reception
room and open every day. Free.
Suan Pakkad Palace (), 352-354 Si Ayutthaya mall or have something to eat. The basement has a wide ar-
Rd (BTS Phaya Thai), +66-2-246-1775(-6), . 9AM-4PM dai-
ly. This complex of five Thai-style houses was once the res-
idence of one of Thailand's leading art collectors, Prince
Chumbhot of Nagara Svarga. It houses an extensive collec-
tion of Asian art and antiques, including items from the pre-
historic Ban Chiang civilization, and an impressive collection
of sea-shells. The Khon Museum, about the traditional Thai
masked dance, and the Traditional Thai Music Museum have
also been established here. 100 baht.
the 59 Thais who lost their lives in the short and inconclu-
sive French Indochina War. However, Pibulsongkhram was
kicked out in 1944 and the patch of land gained by Thailand
was handed back to Laos and Cambodia in 1945, making the
mark is better known as Bangkok's largest local bus hub. If
traveling north by Skytrain, you'll be treated to a 180-degree
curving panorama of the monument, and this is the best
view you can get as actually reaching the base of the mon-
ument would require passing through a triple-laned traffic
circle maelstrom of buses. The public restrooms at the ma-
jor bus stop directly across from the monument costs 2 baht
per entry. Free.
Do
296 Phaya Thai Rd (BTS Ratchathewi), +66-2-653-3960(-2), .
8:15PM and 9:45PM. The famous ladyboy show of the Ca-
lypso Cabaret. The performances takes place in two sessions
every evening. The show consists of singing, dancing and re-
markable costumes. At least make a reservation at their web-
site three days before you want to attend the show. 1200
baht.
Century the Movie Plaza ( ), 15
Phaya Thai Rd (BTS Victory Monument), +66-2-247-9940, .
10AM-10PM daily. This cineplex and shopping mall opened
in 2005, and is the best cinema of the Victory Monument
area. You can find the box office on the third floor, while the
movie theaters are at the fifth floor. They offer all the ma-
jor Hollywood releases and some lesser known Thai movies
(subtitled in English). While waiting for your movie to start,
you might want to browse around the rest of the shopping
ray of small garment shops.

Thai Labour Museum (), Nikhom

Makkasan Rd (ARL Ratchaprarop), +66-2-251-3173. W-Su,
hols. 10AM-4:30PM, M-Tu closed. This museum is located at
the former office of the labour union of the State Railway of
Thailand. On display are items showing the 300-year histo-
ry of the Thai labour movement. There is also a library with
books and research reports on labour. You must call in ad-
vance if you plan on visiting with a group. Free.

Victory Monument (), (BTS Victory

Monument). This monument was constructed in 1941 by
military dictator Plaek Pibulsongkhram to commemorate

108
 Districts
Buy
Platinum Fashion Mall
Most visitors know about the Chatuchak Weekend Market for
cheap deals on clothes, shoes and accessories, but they miss
out on Pratunam's daily sales. Pratunam is an excellent shop-
ping area that can easily be reached on foot from Ratchapra-
song. Most of the products available are on wholesale, so this
is the place to go for some cheap bargains. Haggling is more
important here than in other shopping malls, and things get
considerably cheaper if you buy in bulk. Just don't forget about
your baggage limit! Chatuchak has been serving a more di-
verse audience over the years, but Pratunam has kept a strict
no frills approach. Everything looks cheap and is cheap, even
cheaper than at Chatuchak.
The place to head out for is the Pratunam Market, a jam-packed
maze of alleys where tiny stalls are offering t-shirts, jackets,
dresses, jeans, shorts, shoes and accessories, including many
fakes. You also cannot miss the City Complex, a fashionable
shopping mall marketed towards female teenagers and stu-
dents, and Indra Square that has a more diverse audience.
Shopping in Pratunam is not for the faint-hearted, as it is an
unappealing area with massive crowds, pushy pedestrians and
no air-conditioning. You can take a breather at the cooled Plat-
inum Fashion Mall, that has an excellent food court.
There is lots of commercial activity going on around Victory
Monument as well, although the malls are not as inspiring.
Pratunam Buy
Every evening, a night market is set up along Ratchawithi Road
that is mostly frequented by working-class locals and students.
City Complex (), 831 Phetchaburi Rd
(Pratunam pier), +66-2-254-1999. M-F 11AM-9PM, Sa-Su
10AM-9PM. While walking along Phetchaburi Road, you def-
initely cannot miss the enormous six-story City Complex. It is
one of the most popular malls in Pratunam that is specifical-
ly marketed towards teenage girls and 20-somethings. Most
of the shops are selling fashionable clothing, shoes and ac-
cessories, but there are also a few of them dedicated to cos-
metics, jewellery and crafts. The fifth floor has a modest food
court.
Indra Square ( ), 120/126 Ratchaprarop Rd
(ARL Ratchaprarop), +66-2-208-0022(-33). 8AM-8PM daily.
Indra Square is an indoor shopping mall with more than 300
retail and wholesale outlets. The first floor is mostly about
fashion, silk and accessories, and has some fast-food outlets.
The clothes here are remarkably cheaper than elsewhere in
the city, and unlike City Complex, there is a decent supply of
clothes for men and children as well. The second floor has a
more diverse set of products, including arts, crafts, toys and
mobile phones. If you're getting hungry, there's a food cen-
ter on the second floor. There are some clothes shops at the
ground level of the nearby Baiyoke Tower II as well.
Krungthong Plaza (), 813/8 Phetchaburi
Rd (Pratunam pier), +66-2-653-9333, . 9AM-6PM daily.
Krungthong Plaza is another big shopping mall with apparel
sold at wholesale prices. The mall has more than 600 shops
inside, almost all of them about clothing, shoes, bags, cos-
metics and accessories. There is an excellent food court on
the fourth floor.
Metro Fashion Mall ( ), 599 Phetchaburi Rd (BTS
Ratchathewi, then a 15 minutes walk east along Phetch-
aburi Road), +66-2-653-7000, . This brand new wholesale
shopping mall opened its doors in 2009. Its seven floors ac-
commodate 370 wholesale vendors selling fashion apparel,
bags, footwear, cosmetics and accessories. There is a food
center on the third floor and a branch of McDonald's on the
ground floor outside.
Pantip Plaza (), 604/3 Phetchaburi Rd
(Pratunam pier), +66-2-250-1555, . 10AM-8PM daily. A six-
floor shopping mall devoted to computer gear, famous for
its pirated media. The bootleg trade is much more low-key
than it used to be, but software and DVDs are still widely
available. It is also a good place for digital cameras, gadgets,
printers, MP3-players, etc. Test out whatever you are buying
as there are lots of flaky goods here. If you want to be safe,
buy at the official brand stores, though prices are similar as in
Western countries (or even higher!). And keep in mind that
warranty is only valid within Thailand.
Platinum Fashion Mall ( ), 222 Phetch-
aburi Rd (Pratunam pier), +66-2-121-8000, . 10AM-8PM
daily. A great place for fashion shopping, especially since
109
 Districts Pratunam Eat

it is air-conditioned. Many of the 1300 shops here are also and serves very good Thai food. Check out the special rooms
at the Chatuchak Market on weekends. It is particularly in- upstairs on your way to the bathroom. 250 baht.
teresting for women as the shops mostly sell clothes, hand-
Pickle Factory, 55 Ratchawithi Soi 2 (a 10-15 minutes
bags, shoes, accessories, gifts and make-up. A lot of shops
taxi ride from Victory Monument), +66-2-246-3036.
(but not all) are geared towards export and wholesale.
5:30PM-11:30PM daily. Deep down a small soi, this hip but
Pratunam Center (), 555 Ratchaprarop relaxed lounge-cum-restaurant is neither factory nor has
Rd (Pratunam pier), +66-2-309-8888. 10:30AM-9PM daily. any pickles on their menu. Instead, it's a modern residential
The shiny new Pratunam Center has four floors of textiles house, complete with swimming pool, offering competent
and jewellery on offer for retail and wholesale. The first two pizzas, pastas and Thai favorites. 100-300 baht.
floors are taken up by OTOP (one tambon, one product) that
Platinum Fashion Mall Food Court ( -
sells handicrafts from every township of Thailand. The base-
), 6F, Platinum Fashion Mall, 542/21-22 Phetch-
ment floor mostly offers silverwares and house decoration
aburi Rd (Pratunam pier), +66-2-121-9999. 10AM-8PM dai-
items. For now, a large part of the mall is unoccupied. Sur-
ly. There's a huge and very good food court at the sixth floor
rounding the mall are a bunch of clothes stalls.
of the shopping mall. It can get very busy, especially around
Pratunam Market (), Phetchaburi Soi 21 noon and dinnertime. 70 baht.
(Pratunam pier). 9AM-6PM daily. The Pratunam Market is
SabX2 Wonton Noodles, 4/32-33 Soi Phetchaburi 19 (Pratu-
an immense open-air garment market, and although it is
nam pier; in the alley across Platinum Fashion Mall),
geared towards exporters, anyone can shop here. Most of
+66-2-653-9618. 9:30AM-5:30PM. A very popular joint for
the items for sale are t-shirts, dresses, shorts, jeans, shoes
wonton noodles and wonton soup. The whole place is air-
and accessories. You could easily spend half a day here if
conditioned, which is a relief after long shopping days in the
you wish, as the area has a stunning amount of more than
Pratunam Market. Try the braised pork trotters. 60 baht.
4000 shops. While the market is officially open till 6PM, many
shops already close around 4PM. The market spread out on
the streets around Baiyoke Tower I, and the ground floor of
that tower also has a few clothing shops. In the beginning Drink
of the evening, a night market is set-up in the streets along
Baiyoke Tower I that stays open until after 2AM.

Eat
Most of the eateries around Pratunam are cheap and simple,
unless you step into one of its five-star hotels. Victory Monu-
ment has the usual collection of Western and Thai fast-food fa-
vorites, and it has a busy street market as well, especially in the
evenings.

Kai Ton Pratunam (), Phetchaburi Soi 30

(Pratunam pier; in the alley opposite Pratunam Center),
+66-2-252-6325. 5:30AM-3PM, 6PM-3AM daily. Kai Ton ini-
Victory Monument at night
tially seems like a simple street food vendor; but it is always
crowded as the guests rave about the food. It is touted as Pratunam quickly becomes deserted after dark, unless you're
having Bangkok's best chicken rice ( khao man visiting the Rooftop Bar (as described in the See section). But
kai), which is quite similar to Hainanese chicken rice. The there's an active jazz scene around Victory Monument that
staff does not speak English and there is no English sign up, caters to artsy students living in the area. Expect a laid-back
but the employees are easy to recognize as they wear pink vibe and don't overdress.
clothes, a white cap and a chicken logo on the back. 30 baht.
Bossy Club, Soi Si Ayutthaya (ARL Ratchaprarop; in a small
Once Upon A Time ( ), 32 soi between Phyathai 1 Hospital and Thep Nimit Techni-
Phetchaburi Soi 17 (Pratunam pier; in the alley across Pantip cal School). 1AM-6AM daily. A typical "after-hour" nightclub
Plaza), +66-2-252-8629, . In a dubious-looking alley oppo- that is almost a clich of Bangkok's naughty nightlife. Crowd
site Pantip Plaza, but worth hunting down despite the un- is mixed with many foreign tourists, Thai locals and so-called
likely location. The restaurant is in an old Thai teak house "freelancers". It all feels very dark and sleazy, quite similar to
with a garden, filled with photos of classical Thai film stars, the nearby Spicy Club (in the Siam Square area). There's a
well-lit dancing stage with poles in the middle and music is
very loud. Most taxi drivers are very eager to bring you here

110
 Districts
as they get a hefty commission from the club's owners (you
might even get the ride for free). Entry 300 baht including
1 drink.
Co-Co Walk (- ), 87/70 Phaya Thai Rd (BTS aburi Rd (Pratunam pier), +66-2-653-9000, . Modern four-
Ratchathewi, exit 2), +66-8-1455-7696. 6PM-1AM daily.
This is basically an outdoor covered compound with a dozen
bars, pubs and live music performances. Some of the bet-
ter bars include Sawaree Terrace, Co-Co Beach, 69, The Tube
and Chilling House Cafe. It is mostly popular among Thai uni-
versity students. In the middle of it all is a large Korean-style
BBQ that offers "all-you-can-eat" for 99 baht.
Henry J. Beans Bar and Grill ( . +66-2-656-3000, . Ever wanted to spend the night in the
), 1F, Amari Watergate Hotel Bldg, 847 tallest hotel of Southeast Asia? This is your chance. This lux-
Phetchaburi Rd (Pratunam pier), +66-2-653-9000, . Su-Th
5PM-1AM daily, F-Sa 5PM-2AM. Most non-guests that step
into the Amari Watergate Hotel come for the American-style
Henry J. Beans Bar and Grill. It's a nice place to hang out with
a cold beer or cocktail. During dinner time there's Tex-Mex
food on offer. There is an open grill with hamburgers, steaks
and salads. Try the chicken fajitas.
Saxophone Pub ( ), 3/8 Phaya Thai Rd (BTS Monument), +66-2-246-7800, . Good quality four-star ho-
Victory Monument), +66-2-246-5472, . 6PM-1:30AM daily.
One of the best pubs to catch live playing jazz and blues
bands. The interior is beautifully decorated with old gui-
tars and cymbals. Even while its crowded, the atmosphere is
cozy. It is very much focused on experiencing the music, as
the public sits and stands in a semicircle around the band.
Don't come here for the food, as it is not great and over-
priced. Beers and cocktails (the latter served in a saxophone
glass) are also more expensive than elsewhere in Bangkok.
Skytrain Jazz Club, 5F, 6 Rang Nam Rd (BTS Victory Monu-
ment; across Century the Movie Plaza), +66-8-9895-4299.
5PM-1AM daily. This open-air bar looks nothing like a jazz
club, but feels more like chilling out at a stylish rooftop apart-
ment. There is a nightly view of the Skytrain though and the
atmosphere is very relaxed. If you happen to visit on a Thurs-
day, Friday or Saturday, there will be a live band performing.
The Rock Pub (), Hollywood Street Bldg, a lot for breakfast. WiFi is available but you have to pay sep-
93/26-28 Phaya Thai Rd (BTS Ratchathewi),
+66-2-251-9980, . 7PM-2AM daily. This is the home of rock
and metal in Bangkok. The owner is a rock musician him-
self and has been dedicated to make this the place to be for
those interested in the genre. Two bands play every night,
the first one starts playing at 9:30PM and the second one at
11:45PM. Expect a lot of Metallica and Nirvana covers.
Sleep
While the shopping is one of the cheapest in Bangkok, accom-
modation tends to be in the splurge category. This is not sur-
prising as real estate prices have been skyrocketing in recent
Pratunam Sleep
years (it is no coincidence that the tallest building in Bangkok
can be found here).
Amari Watergate (), 847 Phetch-
star hotel with all the facilities you'd expect, including a few
restaurants good enough to draw non-guests (especially the
American-style Henry J. Beans Bar and Grill). It's a stone's
throw from Pratunam, across the Saen Saep Canal if you're
walking from Ratchaprasong. 3000-8000 baht.
Baiyoke Sky Hotel ( ), 76-78F,
Baiyoke Tower II, 222 Ratchaprarop Rd (ARL Ratchaprarop),
ury hotel has 673 guest rooms, all with a phenomenal view
over the city. It has an extensive breakfast with more than
100 dishes to choose from. Rooms are spacious and the staff
is very helpful. The only downer is the long waiting time to
get into the lift. 2000-3400 baht.
Century Park Hotel ( ), 9
Ratchaprarop Rd (a five to ten minutes walk from BTS Victory
tel with spacious rooms. The fitness and pool areas are nice,
and there's a good view of the city if you're sleeping at the
higher floors. Breakfasts are particularly nice with a large se-
lection of Western and Asian cuisine. 2500-8000 baht.
Citin Pratunam ( ), 88/19
Ratchaprarop Rd (ARL Ratchaprarop), +66-2-120-8999, .
Smack in the heart of Pratunam, close to the Baiyoke Tower
II. The rooms are small, but cozy and modern, and feature 32
inch LCD TVs and free WiFi. They also have a great spa and
a cafe serving vegetarian-only dishes. There's a free tuk-tuk
shuttle service to nearby shops and BTS stations. 1500-3200
baht.
Indra Regent Hotel ( ),
120/126 Ratchaprarop Rd (ARL Ratchaprarop),
+66-2-208-0022(-33), . Decent four-star hotel with spacious
rooms and a nice view. The staff is friendly, but you don't get
arately for it. Most people stay here for its close location to
the garment markets. 2000-5900 baht.
PJ Watergate Hotel ( ), 467 Soi
Watthana Sin (ARL Ratchaprarop), +66-2-254-3314. The PJ
Watergate is a decent hotel in the Ratchaprarop area. Rooms
feature air-conditioning and a TV, and there's an internet
cafe, restaurant and bar in the main area. Most staff speak
at least some English, but the manager is fluent. 1200-2000
baht.
Pullman Bangkok King Power (
), 8/2 Rang Nam Rd (BTS Victory Monument),
+66-2-680-9999, . Opened in 2007, this modern luxury hotel
may be better value than other similarly priced hotels. It is
a bit north of the city core, just south of Victory Monument.
111
 Districts Pratunam Contact

An impressive lobby and the more-than-ample smiling staff

will greet you on arrival. The rooms reflect the five-star sta-
tus of the hotel, with the executive levels offering many ex-
tras including drinks and canapes in the evening. Next door
is the King Power Duty Free complex, which has a first floor
boutique beer garden, plus the usual large range of duty free
goods. In the evening you could visit the chic wine pub that
is also open to non-guests. 3000-5600 baht.

Contact
Jessie's Minimart, inside the Miami Villa complex at Phetch-
aburi Soi 43/1, is an internet cafe that is open 24 hours and has
a WiFi hotspot available. It is close to the Phetchaburi MRT sta-
tion. There's a free WiFi signal at the Amari Watergate Hotel,
so you might want to have a drink at one of their cafes while
surfing the net.

Get out
Another neighborhood for cheap deals, and just a 15-minutes
BTS ride north, is the Chatuchak Weekend Market in Phaho-
nyothin. As the name implies, it is only open at weekends.
Many of the shops there actually operate in Pratunam during
weekdays. An alternative is the Bobae Market in Rattanakosin,
a wholesale garment market very similar to Pratunam. It is only
four stops away on the Saen Saep Express Boat.

112
 Districts Phahonyothin Understand

PHAHONYOTHIN
Understand
Originally, Phahonyothin Road was named Prachathipatai
Road () and it was just 22 kilometers, stretch-
ing from Victory Monument to Don Muang Airport. Field Mar-
shal Plaek Phibunsonhkhram extended the road north all the
way north to Sing Buri, and renamed it Phahonyothin Road in
honor of General Phraya Pholphayuhasena, the second Prime
Minister of Thailand (commonly known as Phot Phahonyothin).
Later it was extended even further, all the way to the Burmese
border for a length of 1005 kilometers! This article doesn't
stretch that long, as it only covers that part of Phahonyothin
Road that is actually within the Bangkok Metropolitan Admin-
istration. But even then, Phahonyothin is a vast district by any
means, stretching 30 kilometers from north to south.

Until 2006, nearly all visitors to Thailand landed here at Don

Muang Airport. Don Muang has been an important airline hub,
and for a long time held the title of second busiest airport
in Asia by passenger volume. The first commercial flights in
Don Muang Airport started in 1924; since then, the airport
has been a commercial motor for the whole district, attracting
many hotels and businesses. Because of this commercial activ-
ity, Bangkok mostly expanded northwards and Phahonyothin
turned into one of the most developed suburbs of Bangkok.
Many of Bangkok's residents live here and commute to down-
town every day. Getting from the fringes to the southern part
of Phahonyothin might take two hours or more, depending on
traffic.

While the northern part is barely attended by foreign visitors,

the southern part has some major highlights. Shopping is the
main activity here; a visitor hasn't been to Bangkok without vis-
iting the huge Chatuchak Weekend Market, the largest mar-
ket in Southeast Asia with over 8000 stalls. And while still off
the beaten track to foreigners, Soi Ari turned into a hip artist-y
neighborhood with plenty of cheap dining options.

With the opening of Suvarnabhumi Airport in 2006, Don

Muang Airport closed down completely for one year. After a
big renovation, it was reopened in 2007 for non-connecting
domestic flights, but still few airlines make use of it. The eco-
nomic engine that Don Muang used to be suddenly stopped
working. In a snap, five-star hotels turned into two-star ho-
tels and airport-related businesses moved out of the far north.
Luckily, 30 kilometers south, commercial activity is still alive
and kicking.

113
 Districts Phahonyothin Get in

Get in

114
 Districts
Map of Phahonyothin
Phahonyothin is a major arterial road, and as many
Bangkokians that live here work in downtown, there are plenty
of ways to get in.
By public transit
Skytrain
The Skytrain is an excellent way to get in and around Phaho-
nyothin. The BTS Sukhumvit Line runs over Phahonyothin Road
with the most important areas of the district covered. The line
comes directly from Siam Square and Sukhumvit. If you're com-
ing from Silom, you must transfer from the Silom Line onto the
Sukhumvit Line at Siam BTS station.
The line passes Sanam Pao, Ari and Saphan Khwai, before
reaching its final destination at Mo Chit, which is nearby the
Chatuchak Weekend Market and the Northern Bus Terminal.
At Mo Chit, the Skytrain intersects with MRT metro system
Chatuchak Park, so you can easily continue your way from
there to Ratchadaphisek.
Metro
The metro only covers a small part of Phahonyothin, but it actu-
ally gets higher up than the Skytrain. If you need to go to the far
north, take the metro to Phahon Yothin MRT station and then
continue your way by metered taxi or bus. The metro is also
a more convenient way of getting to the Chatuchak Weekend
Market. MRT station Kamphaeng Phet drops you right in front
of the main entrance of Chatuchak, arguably the most interest-
ing part of the market. Chatuchak Park MRT station also gets
you there, but you still have to walk to the eastern entrance.
The metro terminates at Bang Sue, an important train station
that can be used if you're taking the train in northern or north-
eastern direction.
By bus
Phahonyothin stretches as far north as 30 kilometers, and the
BTS and MRT systems don't even reach close to it. So you'll have
to travel as the locals do by bus. Going by taxi is also possi-
ble, but that costs a lot more. Keep in mind that bus travel in
Phahonyothin is very troublesome, though. Getting from north
to south can take you two hours or more, depending on traf-
fic. The most important line is ordinary and air-conditioned bus
59, which runs 24 hours a day. It starts at Sanam Luang in Rat-
tanakosin and passes by Ratchdamnoen Klang Road (for Khao
San Road) and Panfa Leelard pier, the western terminus of the
Saen Saep Express Boat. It then continues through Lan Luang
Road, Phetchaburi Road, and heads north along Phaya Thai
Road, passing Victory Monument. From there, it goes all the
way north along Phahonyothin Road passing the Chatuchak
Weekend Market, Don Muang Airport and finally the Tham-
masat University campus in Rangsit.
Phahonyothin See
By taxi
Going by metered taxi is the most comfortable (and expensive)
way to get in and around the district. It can be used for both
short and long distances. Always insist on the meter. If the dri-
ver refuses, get out and get another taxi, as there is always an-
other one waiting for you. A ride from Sukhumvit or Silom to
Chatuchak Weekend Market shouldn't cost you more than 100
baht. If you're heading up north to Don Muang Airport, expect
a price in the 200-300 baht range, depending on traffic.
By train
Bang Sue Train Station is a worthy alternative for the busy and
crowded Hualamphong Train Station, but can only be used if
you're heading to the north or northeast of the country. You
can reach it using the MRT metro system, of which Bang Sue
is the last stop. You can also take the Skytrain to Mo Chit and
continue by metered taxi.
See
Architecture
Elephant Building, 369/38 Phahonyothin Soi 26 (MRT Pha-
hon Yothin, then continue by taxi), +66-2-937-3300. The
Elephant Building is one of the quirkiest buildings of the
world, and has even won awards for being one of the ugli-
est. This 32-floor high-rise is composed of three towers that
are connected to each other on the upper floors. The shape
clearly resembles a grey elephant, Thailand's national ani-
mal. It even has eyes, ears and tusks, so nothing is left to the
imagination. The building is used for residential and com-
mercial purposes, so it cannot be entered.
Do
Major Cineplex Ratchayothin, 234/2 Phahonyothin Rd
(MRT Phahon Yothin; at the intersection of Phahonyothin
Road and Ratchadaphisek Road), +66-2-421-6606, . M-W
10:30AM-midnight, Th-Su 10AM-midnight. Another branch
of the Major Cineplex line of cinemas. The ticket office is
on the second floor, the movies play at the fifth and sixth
floors. It is a large cinema with all the new Hollywood releas-
es. Thai movies are also showed and are subtitled in English.
150 baht.
115
 Districts
Buy
Chatuchak Weekend Market
Map of Chatuchak Weekend Market
Northern Bangkok's biggest draw is the Chatuchak Weekend
Market (, also "Jatujak" or even "JJ"), an incredibly vast,
35-acre indoor and outdoor market that has more than 8000
vendors selling anything and everything under the sun. To
put that number in perspective, if you browsed every stall one
minute each, non-stop for eight hours on every Saturday and
Sunday, it would take you around two months to visit them all!
A good rule of thumb is to buy immediately if you spot some-
thing interesting, as you will never find that same stall again.
Eat
Northern Bangkok's hippest place to eat is the area around
Phahonyothin Soi 7, better known as Soi Ari (or Aree). More
restaurants can be found in the nearby Rama VI Soi 30, which
is also known as Soi Ari Samphan. Many musicians and artists
migrated into this neighborhood and the bars and restau-
rants cater to this audience. Just off Ari BTS station, these busy
streets are divided into their own sois, with Ari Soi 1 featuring a
bustling market packed with food stalls and the trendier/more
expensive joints around Soi 2 and 3.
Budget
There are a variety of street food vendors at Phahonyothin Soi
7 (Soi Ari). Just off the BTS and around the corner on Soi Ari
are a multitude of street stalls selling some of Bangkok's best
street food, from Chinese-style wonton noodles, Isaan special-
ities such as som tam, larb, gai yaang, as well as pad thai,
Thai deserts and stands that can whip up basically the entire
repetoire of Thai cuisine, all for around 20-30 baht per dish.
Drink
Several bars aimed at young Thai socializers have sprung up at
the Or Tor Kor farmer's market area, near Chatuchak. A stone's
Phahonyothin Buy
throw from the Kamphaeng Phet MRT station (exit 1) are at
least 20 small pubs, bars and restaurants that operate every day
of the week.
Ari Bar (Aree Babar), 36/6 Phahonyothin Soi 7 (BTS Ari),
+66-2-279-7560. This is a simple bar that caters to those liv-
ing in the area. It is a bit quirky with eclectic music and drinks.
The sign actually says "Aaari babar", so you know where to
get in.
Cafe Dee Dee, Ari Samphan Soi 2 (at the corner of Soi
Ari Samphan and Ari Samphan Soi 2), +66-2-278-4113.
10AM-7PM daily. This is the typical cutesy coffeehouse com-
mon in Bangkok. There's a homey atmosphere as the whole
place is decorated with flowers. A nice place to step in for
some coffee or Thai tea. With a pie or sandwich.
Dbaa, Ari Soi 2 (quite deep down in Ari Soi 2; on the left side if
you walk from Soi Ari in the north). A hip bar in the Ari neigh-
borhood, popular among the locals.
Lesla, Chit Chat Club, Chok Chai 4 Soi 58 (MRT Lat Phrao),
+66-2-618-7191, . Sa 7PM-1AM. Lesla is a growing commu-
nity of lesbians in Bangkok that organizes events for them
to meet each other. Every Saturday night, a weekly get-to-
gether is held in the Chit Chat Club in the Lat Phrao neigh-
borhood. 150 baht.
Tawandang Microbrewery (Rong Beer Yereman, German
Beer Hall), 51/199-200 Moo 1 Khwaeng (at the corner of
Ram Intra Road and Yu Yen Road, at Ram Intra Soi 34),
+66-2-944-5131(-2), . 5PM-1AM daily. This is the sec-
ond branch of this popular German microbrewery (the first
branch is at Rama III Road near Silom). It is mostly popular
among upper middle-class Thais. There's good food at rea-
sonable prices, and a good stage show with many acts and
fun music. It is a stretch to find it, as it is far off from Pha-
honyothin Road, but the trip is well worth it. Most taxis will
know this place, just ask for the "Rong Beer Yereman" (Ger-
man Beer Hall) and they should understand. Reservations
are recommended, especially on weekends.
Sleep
There are many accommodation options within a fifteen
minute drive off the old Don Muang airport.
Budget
Bansabai Hostel, 8/137 Moo 3, Soi Sahakon 15, Lat Phrao Soi
71, +66-2-932-9200, . This "hostel" is not really a hostel,
more like a three-star hotel. It is unbelievably hard to find as
it is deep in the sois of Lat Phrao, and about 16 kilometers
from Victory Monument! So budget in some money for long
taxi rides. The English skills of the staff are not that good,
but no wonder, as this is far off in a quiet residential neigh-
borhood. At least they try all they can, and are very respon-
116
 Districts Phahonyothin Contact

sible and hospitable. You get a lot of service for your money:
a huge room, that is very clean, a balcony, air-conditioning,
pool, fridge, cable TV, room service and a cheap mini bar.
700-800 baht.

Chewhouse Guest House, 68/1 Soi Phahonyothin 6 (BTS Ari),

+66-2-619-1164, . An excellent guest house run by three
friendly Thai pilots; one speaks fluent English from living in
the United States for two years. There are ensuite rooms and
dorm-type rooms. It has a great backpacker vibe and cheap
beer, as well as free WiFi, water, kitchen facilities and warm
water showers. 450 baht.

Contact
Getting online in Phahonyothin is not as easy as in other dis-
tricts. Luckily, there is a free WiFi hotspot available near S&P at
the ground floor of the Shinawatra Tower III (1011 Viphavadi
Rangsit Rd, at Phahon Yothin MRT station).

Cope
Phyathai 2 Hospital, 943 Phahonyothin Rd (BTS Sanam Pao),
+66-2-617-2444(-1711), . This is a private hospital that fol-
lows international standards. Multiple languages are spo-
ken.

Get out
Just follow Phahonyothin Road to the north as the concrete
jungle continues in Rangsit. It has huge shopping malls and
a hypermodern temple complex.

Phahonyothin is already a pretty exotic part of Bangkok, but

if you want a more serene experience, try Ko Kret.

In the weekdays, when Chatuchak Weekend Market is

closed, more cheap shopping is to be had in Pratunam.

117
 Districts Ratchadaphisek Understand

RATCHADAPHISEK
Understand
Ratchadaphisek, generally shortened to just Ratchada,
breathes entertainment. While Sukhumvit's clubbing scene is
probably the most impressive, it is totally overrun by expats.
Ratchada's clubs, bars, cinemas, massage parlors and shopping
malls almost exclusively cater to a local Thai audience (foreign-
ers are welcome though). Saturday nights are busiest, with Thai
students in their late teens and early 20s flocking in great num-
bers to "RCA", a pedestrian-only road that stands for Royal City
Avenue. Being a government-designated entertainment zone,
clubs here stay open till 2AM, which is one hour longer than
elsewhere in Bangkok. The bars and clubs have spilled over be-
yond RCA onto the many sois Ratchadaphisek is rich.

Meanwhile, Chinese and Japanese mass tourism has discov-

ered Ratchadaphisek, and there are many hotels and seafood
restaurants fulfilling this demand. Western tourists, however,
still come in surprisingly few numbers. Besides clubbing and
fine dining, don't expect to see anything particularly interest-
ing on this long, rather soulless road.

Orientation is quite straightforward. Ratchdaphisek Road is the

main road that crosses right through the district from north
to south. It is the transportation hub of the district as the MRT
metro runs right beneath it. Many of Ratchadaphisek's sois in-
tersect with the main road, with the uneven numbers at the
west side and the even numbers at the east side.

118
 Districts Ratchadaphisek Get in

Get in

119
 Districts Ratchadaphisek See

Map of Ratchadaphisek fortable way of getting around Ratchadaphisek, especially if

you have to be in one of its sois, which can be complicated to
By public transit navigate in. A ride from Sukhumvit should not cost you more
than 50 baht, while a ride from Silom should not cost you more
Since 2004, Ratchadaphisek has been completely served by than 70 baht.
the MRT metro system. The line exactly follows Ratchadaphisek
Road with plenty of stops on it. If you are coming from Silom,
Sukhumvit, Siam Square or Yaowarat and Phahurat, the metro
is definitely the most convenient way to get in. The stations
See
are, from south to north, Phetchaburi, Phra Ram 9, Thailand
Thai Life Permanent Exhibition Hall (), Thai-
Cultural Centre, Huai Khwang, Sutthisan and Ratchadaphisek.
land Cultural Centre, Walthana Tham Rd (MRT Thailand Cul-
The metro ride from Sukhumvit station takes about five min-
tural Centre), +66-2-247-0028, . M-F 9:30AM-4:30PM, Sa-
utes, while the ride from Si Lom station takes about ten min-
Su, hols closed. This venue displays the history of the Thai
utes. Trains leave every five to ten minutes for a fare of about
people and the different aspects of Thai culture, as devel-
16 to 41 baht.
oped from pre-historic times up to the present day. It most-
ly focuses on the struggle the Thai people have overcome
By boat throughout history to stay independent. The exhibition is di-
vided into five topics covering the history of Thai culture, im-
Ratchadaphisek is not easy to reach by boat, but the Saen portant archaeological sites in Thailand, world civilization,
Saep Express Boat service does have some stops at the south the origins of the Thais, and Thai language and literature.
side of the district. It generally is the fastest way to get into The information is told in a presentation using computer
Ratchadaphisek if coming from Rattanakosin, Khao San Road generated imagery, photography, slide-presentations and
or Dusit. A single trip from Rattanakosin to the district takes even puppets. Free.
about 30 minutes (including a transfer at Pratu Nam pier) and
costs around 8 to 20 baht. The most important pier is Asok,
which is at walking distance of Ratchadaphisek Road. At Asok,
it is possible to transfer to the metro at nearby Phetchaburi Do
MRT station. If you're heading for Royal City Avenue (RCA), you
can get out at Wat Mai Chong Lom pier. Other piers that bor-
der the district are Prasan Mit, Ital-Thai Tower, Thong Lo and
Entertainment
Charrn Issara. All of these piers are served by the NIDA Line,
which starts at Pratu Nam pier and runs all the way northeast
to Ramkhamhaeng.

By bus
There are about 20 bus lines covering Ratchadaphisek Road.
Ordinary and air-conditioned bus 136 starts at the Khlong
Toey Market (near Sukhumvit) and then follows the MRT north-
wards, along the Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre,
Asoke Road and Ratchadaphisek Road. It passes Sutthisan, Lat
Phrao and Phahon Yothin MRT stations before heading for
Chatuchak Weekend Market and the Northern Bus Terminal
(Mo Chit). Ordinary and air-conditioned bus 206 also runs from
RCA Plaza, with movies, go-karts and arcades
Asoke Road north, along Ratchadaphisek Road to the inter-
section with Phahonyothin Road. Ordinary and air-conditioned Ratchadaphisek is Bangkok's entertainment mecca, offering
bus 514 traverses Silom Road and drives along Ratchadamri all the modern entertainment facilities you could expect from
Road, Ratchaprarop Road, Victory Monument and Din Daeng a large metropolis, including theaters, bowling, karaoke, go-
Road to the intersection with Asoke Road, where it heads north karts and even an ice-skating rink. Most facilities are sparkly
along Ratchadaphisek Road to the intersection with Lat Phrao new, as they opened after the MRT line was finalized in 2002.
Road.
Blu-O Rhythm and Bowl, 4F, Esplanade, 99 Ratchadaphisek
Rd (MRT Thailand Cultural Centre), +66-2-511-55443, .
By taxi 10AM-11PM daily. Kind of a weird entertainment venue as
this complex combines karaoke rooms with bowling facil-
You can also pull over a taxi it's okay to say Ratchada ("RAHT-
ities, aimed at upper-middle class Thai ladies. Just the en-
cha-dah" ), as everybody abbreviates it. Taxis are a com-
trance is professional and neat in a glamorous blue, gold and

120
 Districts Ratchadaphisek Buy

white style. The karaoke rooms look much like living rooms
with a DVD player and touch-screens. The 22-lane bowling
alleys are world-class. After 5PM, bowlers play with a glow-
in-the-dark ball in a dimly-lit environment. There are also
DJs, lounge seats and you can have cocktails. 80-190 baht.
a completely original experience though, as at daytime you
can just skate around or take lessons, while at night, this
turns into some swanky club complete with strobe lights,
live DJs and bars made from ice. Just don't forget to bring
jackets.

BSC Bowl, 3F, RCA Plaza, 31/6-9 Royal City Avenue,

+66-2-641-5870(-3). 10AM-1AM daily. This is a bowling cen- Cultural performances
ter that does a fine job if you're looking for a night out with
The area around Thailand Cultural Centre is the place to go for
friends. It is really a huge place with dozens of bowling alleys
cultural performances. Siam Niramit is one of the best tradi-
lined up right next to each other.
tional Thai shows in Bangkok.
House RCA, 3F, RCA Plaza, 31/8 Royal City Avenue,
+66-2-641-5177(-8), . 11:45-midnight daily. This is a boutique
art house cinema with two screens. No typical Hollywood Buy
films or Thai chick flicks here, expect Swedish art films and
obscure Cantonese dramas. Foreign movies are subtitled Carrefour (), 125 Ratchadaphisek Rd (MRT Thailand
both in Thai and in English. The cinema is not as luxury as Cultural Centre), +66-2-800-8099, . 9AM-11PM daily.
those in Siam Paragon, but good enough. Don't trust any
listings, as they are often wrong. Just turn up and see what
they have on offer. 100 baht.

Muangthai Ratchadalai Theatre, 4F, Esplanade, 99

Ratchadaphisek Rd (MRT Thailand Cultural Centre),
+66-2-669-8288, . Opened in 2007, this 1500-seat musical
theater has an extensive schedule of theater productions
and live shows. Most of them cater to the locals, so inform
before booking.

PTT Speed Way, 2F, RCA Plaza, 31/11 Soi Soonvijai,

+66-2-203-1205(-7), . M-Tu, Th 4PM-midnight, F 4PM-3AM,
Sa-Su, hols 1PM-midnight, W closed. Opened in March 2004,
with 7000 square meters this is the largest indoor go-kart
track in Asia. It has more than 100,000 visitors every year,
most of them karting in the weekends. Formula 1 racer Nico
Rosberg is known to have a membership here. But you don't
have to be a good racer to do it, everybody can. 390 baht for
8 minutes.
Spark Entertainment Center, BF, The Emerald Hotel, 99/1
Ratchadaphisek Rd (MRT Huai Khwang), +66-2-276-4567, .
11AM-1AM daily. Opened in April 2007, this is another one of
Ratchada's entertainment meccas. This self-proclaimed "en-
tertainment center" has a game room, karaoke rooms and
a snooker table. Also included in the complex is the Carni-
val Pub with a live band and the Sparks Discotheque dance
floor.
UMG RCA Cinema, RCA Plaza, 31-6/9 Royal City Avenue,
+66-2-641-5913(-4). Formerly boasting five screens, now
two of them on the third floor have been remodeled into
the House RCA art cinema. Three screens remain with about
1000 seats. It features recently released Hollywood and Thai
mainstream films. 150 baht.
Sub Zero Ice Skate Club, 4F, Esplanade, 99 Ratchadaphisek
Rd (MRT Thailand Cultural Centre), +66-2-354-2134. Two
sessions at 11AM-5PM and 5:30PM-1AM daily. Yeah, logical,
it is 35 degrees outside, let's go to an ice skating club! It's
Esplanade
Esplanade (), 99 Ratchadaphisek Rd (MRT Thai-
land Cultural Centre), +66-2-642-2000, . 10AM-11PM dai-
ly. Seven stories of phone shops and beauty stores with
some cinemas, restaurants (mostly Japanese), cafes and
gyms added in-between. The most stunning features here
are the ice skating rink and the bowling alley, the only fea-
tures that differentiate this mall from the others. It is quite
unorganized and feels a bit chaotic (in that way, the atmos-
phere has some in common with Pantip Plaza). All in all, it
lacks personality and the only real reason to visit is if you
happen to be in the area.
Fortune Town (), Fortune Town Bldg, 1
Ratchadaphisek Rd (MRT Phra Ram 9, slight north of the
intersection of Ratchadaphisek Rd and Rama IX Rd),
+66-2-641-1884(-6), . 10AM-10PM daily. Just like Pantip Plaza
in Pratunam, but much less touristy, this is one of the best
places in Bangkok to buy computer gear. It has an exten-
sive mobile phone section on the second floor and comput-
er sections on the third and fourth floors. The supermarket

121
 Districts Ratchadaphisek Eat

Tesco Lotus is incorporated in the complex, as are many bar- large menu, making it hard to pick... but that's only good!
ber shops, restaurants and a food court. 250 baht.

Ratchada Night Bazaar ( Somboon Seafood (), 167/9-12

-), Ratchadaphisek Rd-Lat Phrao Rd Ratchadaphisek Rd (MRT Huai Khwang, exit 3),
intersection (MRT Ratchadaphisek). F-Su 7PM-11:30PM. An +66-2-692-6850(-3), . 4PM-11:30PM daily. This place offers
enormous night bazaar that has little in common with the good Chinese and Thai-style seafood. Be sure to try the curry
other bazaars in the city. It's basically one dirty parking crab, one of their specialties. 500 baht.
lot completely filled with small stores, carts and hawker
stalls. This is an absolute must-visit for vintage lovers with
such a vast amount of used products, it's amazing. Some of
the items you'll find are antiques, furniture, clothes, shoes,
Drink
jeans, accessories, trinkets, decor items, knick-knacks, cam-
If you are looking for entertainment the locals enjoy, Royal City
era, books, toys, radios and TVs. But the absolute highlight
Avenue and Ratchadaphisek Road are an interesting night out.
of the market are the vintage motorcycles and cars. The ven-
These nightclubs are huge, and most of them boost stunning
dors are retro-minded and the wide display of hippie Volk-
visual effects. Partying here is quite different from the usual
swagen vans, Mini Coopers, Vespas and Yamahas is really
tourist places. Instead of 40-year old tourists, expect local ear-
fun to stroll through. The market has a kind of hip and trendy
ly 20-something university students. Ordering drinks goes by
atmosphere aimed at local teenagers, you won't see a lot of
bottle, instead of per glass, and the locals dance while stand-
foreigners here. It opens at 7PM on Fridays, Saturdays and
ing at their tables (not on the dance floor). The same are the
Sundays, but you really should visit on Saturdays as the oth-
ID checks; always bring identification papers as they will be
er days do not have the same atmosphere.
checked upon entry.
Robinson (), 139 Ratchadaphisek Rd (MRT Thailand
Cultural Centre), +66-2-248-2626(-35), . 10AM-10PM daily.
Sleep
Eat Not as popular as the Sukhumvit area for western tourists, but
there are some big hotels here. Many cater to high-end Chinese
Ratchadaphisek has plenty of seafood restaurants that cater and Japanese visitors.
to high-end Chinese and Japanese tourists (though are still
quite affordable compared to the Western countries). The Huai Budget
Khwang area has lots of restaurants, especially good for late
night dining. If you happen to be in Royal City Avenue (RCA), Tailek's House BKK, 93 Pracha Suk Rd (across the entrance
south of the road is RCA Plaza with plenty of food outlets, a to Inthamara Soi 30; access via Ratchadaphisek Soi 17),
food court and a TOPS Supermarket. +66-8-8876-4398. A friendly five-story guest house run by
American/Thai friends. It is clean and relaxed with various
Near MRT Phra Ram 9 lies Ratchada Soi 3 that is home to some
sleeping areas both common and somewhat private.
excellent street food at low prices. You might want to try some
There is a main area for meals, massage and relaxing. Ameni-
khao man kai (chicken and rice with chili sauce) or moo yang
ties include free WiFi, the use of a big kitchen, occasion-
(grilled pork) here. It won't cost you more than 80 baht.
al Thai cooking lessons and delicious meals from Ms. Bee.
Bali Seafood (Ban Suan Seafood), 70/13 Ratchadaphisek Soi "Tailek" is the name of the two-year old kid that lives in the
6 (MRT Thailand Cultural Center), +66-2-248-6753. This house. 300 baht. (13.78689,100.56713)
restaurant and megabar, with the unassuming title Bali
Watana Mansion, 209 Ratchadaphisek Soi 17 (MRT Sut-
Seafood, belies the grand stature of what it encompasses.
thisan), +66-2-275-0110. A 14-story basic hotel offering
Big screen TVs, blasting music both live and recorded, and
clean, basic rooms with air-conditioning. Wattana Mansion
humming with as many as 4000 young Thais, all of them eat-
has a small swimming pool, 24 hour room service and an in-
ing, drinking and socializing show how large this place actu-
ternet cafe with four computers and wireless access (if you
ally is. 400 baht.
have your laptop with you) for 20 baht per 30 minutes. The
Nathong Restaurant, 569/1 Pracha Uthit Rd (MRT Huai staff doesn't seem to care much, though, and the restaurant
Khwang, then continue by taxi), +66-2-691-0641, . is not worth it. 600-650 baht.
11AM-1:30PM daily. This Thai restaurant is featured in the
movie Bangkok Dangerous, where Nicolas Cage takes the
deaf girl to dinner. It is not upper class by any means, but
the seating area surrounding the pond looks nice. There's a

122
 Districts Ratchadaphisek Contact

Contact
Your best bet for free WiFi is the Esplanade shopping mall.
There are plenty of hotspots available from McDonald's, Cof-
feeWorld and other cafes and restaurants. Just take a sit at one
of the public benches at the ground floor and you won't have
to worry about not finding a hotspot.

Get out
If you like the seafood restaurants in Ratchadaphisek, then
you should definitely check out the delicious seafood dishes
in Yaowarat. Just jump on the metro in southwards direction
and get out at the last stop, Hua Lamphong.

Take the MRT north to Phahonyothin and you'll be in

Chatuchak Weekend Market in no time. Keep in mind that
this enormous market is only opened on Saturdays and Sun-
days.

123
 Districts Ramkhamhaeng Understand

Get in
RAMKHAMHAENG
Understand
Eastern Bangkok almost stands synonymous to
Ramkhamhaeng Road, a major traffic artery that gets jammed
every morning and evening with daily commuters working in
downtown. Rising property values in Sukhumvit has made this
area more interesting to foreign expatriates in recent years, al-
though seeing a farang is still a rare occurrence. With a total
length of 18 kilometers, Ramkhamhaeng Road starts at Phetch-
aburi Road near Sukhumvit and ends far in the northeast at the Map of Ramkhamhaeng
junction with Suwinthawong Road (in the neighborhood Min
Buri). By boat
The lower southwestern part is known as Hua Mark, a neigh-
Bangkok and its traffic-congested commercial districts, includ-
borhood completely dominated by Ramkhamhaeng Univer-
ing Ramkhamhaeng Road, are hard to navigate by car. Thus,
sity. "RU", as it is commonly known, was opened in 1971 as
the best way to get into the area is by boat. The Saen Saep Ex-
Thailand's first open-admission university. It has an astonish-
press Boat service runs on the canal of the same name, and you
ing amount of students official statistics state about half
don't have to worry about getting stuck in traffic! The service
a million, almost all of them undergraduates. The university
runs about every 5 to 10 minutes and as the canal is exactly par-
gave the neighborhood its lively appearance, with many stu-
allel to Ramkhamhaeng Road wit many stops along that road.
dents shopping and dining at The Mall Ramkhamhaeng. Raja-
mangala Stadium can also be found here. Completed in 1998, It is a fast and inexpensive way of transport as a single trip costs
it played an important role in the 1998 Asian Games and the about 9 to 19 baht, depending on the distance travelled. The
2007 AFC Asian Cup. It is also used as the current stadium of most important stops are The Mall Ram (in Hua Mark) and The
Thailand's national football team. Mall Bangkapi, both of which are served by the NIDA Line (that
starts in Pratunam and goes all the way northeast to Wat Sri-
The junction with Srinagarindra Road is known as Lam Sali in-
boonreung). The route is served by 100 boats of 40-50 seats,
tersection. Go north from here and you'll stumble at Lat Phrao
and operates from 5:30AM to 8:30PM daily. Most piers have
Road, which marks the beginning of a neighborhood known
English signs up, but be wary, as The Mall Ram does not have
as Bang Kapi. It is actually quite similar to Hua Mark, as every-
any sign at all, and from the boat it is not clear that you have
thing still looks like a big grey mass of concrete, but students
reached the mall!
are outrun here by daily commuters. The Mall Bangkapi stole
the hearts of the locals, and Thais flock to it in big numbers. Be wary of sitting at the outer sides of the boat as polluted wa-
For foreigners, there is actually not that much to do. Attractions ter from the canal sometimes spills over on-board. Also be care-
are few and far off, and the shopping malls are lacking com- ful when entering and exiting the boats as "safety first" does
pared to those in other districts. It can easily be skipped on any not seem to apply for the crew here. During rush hour, you
Bangkok itinerary, but then you miss out on seeing where and might have to fight your way in the boat as too many people
how most of the locals live. are trying to get on. Another minor annoyance is the noisy at-
mosphere during the ride, don't expect a sensual experience.
You would almost forget that nearly all foreign visitors to Thai-
land land here at Suvarnabhumi Airport in the far east of the
district. Development in eastern Bangkok has been relatively By public transit
slow, and it is expected that the recent construction of the air-
Opened in August 2010, the Airport Rail Link is an alternative
port will be the motor for more urban development in the area.
way of getting in. The City Line of that service has a stop at
Until now, this has at least been true for the hotel business,
Ramkhamhaeng, which is at the utter southwest of the district
with many new hotels constructed at Lat Krabang Road trying
at the beginning of Ramkhamhaeng Road. There is a direct ser-
to make a buck out of transferring passengers.
vice from Suvarnabhumi Airport in the east, as well as from
Phaya Thai, Ratchaprarop and Makkasan stations in the west.
Do not take the Express Line as it skips Ramkhamhaeng com-
pletely.

124
 Districts Ramkhamhaeng Get around

By bus See
Getting to Ramkhamhaeng by bus is very troublesome, but
at least its a cheap way of doing some exploring. Expect a
long ride though, and ask a local where to get off as you eas-
ily get lost in traffic. An important route is bus 40, that starts
at Hualamphong Train Station and then passes Rama IV Road,
Phaya Thai Road, Siam Square, Sukhumvit, Pridi Phanomyong
Road and Ramkhamhaeng Road with The Mall Ramkhamhaeng
as its final destination.

Get around
Getting around this vast district is sure to give you a headache.
The locals use their own transport for attractions that lie too
far off a boat pier or ARL station. Of course, metered taxis
are abundant, but expect long rides and high fares (especial-
ly during rush hour). Buses are cheaper, but without a de-
cent bus map, you are sure to get lost. Bus 58 and 113 from
Makkasan Station drive over Phetchaburi Road and then head
for Ramkhamhaeng Road. Both are useful bus routes for get-
ting around as they travel all along Ramkhamhaeng Road from
Hua Mark in the southwest to Min Buri in the northeast (and
back).

Palms outside the Prasart Museum

Prasart Museum, 9 Soi Krungthep Kritha 8 Yaek 14,

+66-2-379-3601. F-Su 10AM-3PM, must call to RSVP. This
eclectic museum sprawls across manicured gardens, pavil-
ions, shrines, chapels, and even an exact replica of the teak
Red Palace (built by King Rama I for his sister). On display are
art and antiques from all eras of Thai history, as well books
and manuscripts, and replicas of various prominent Thai ar-
chitectural works. Mr. Prasart is usually around, and he and
his staff will make sure you have a nice guided tour of the
place. 500 baht.
Wat Theplila (), Ramkhamhaeng Soi 41 (Wat The-
pleela pier; at the end of Soi 41). One of the few temples in
the Ramkhamhaeng area, this is a local temple that shows
how the local inhabitants practice Buddhism. It is a big com-
pound, which is fairly lively with people praying and show-
ing respect to the Buddha statues. It was built in 1842 during
the reign of King Nangklao (Rama III). At that time, the tem-
ple was known as Wat Tuek or Wat Tuek Khlong Ton. Saen
Saep Canal was dug for transporting troops and weapons to
Cambodia. During digging work, Pang Lila was found at this
location, a 1.2 meters tall Sukhothai-style walking Buddha
image. The temple was renamed to Wat Theplila during the
reign of King Chulalongkorn.

125
 Districts
Do
Major Cineplex Bangkapi, 3F, Lotus Supercenter, 3109 Lat
Phrao Rd (The Mall Bangkapi pier), +66-2-378-2435(-7), .
M-F 10AM-midnight, Sa-Su 9AM-midnight. 60-220 baht.
Major Cineplex Ramkhamhaeng, 73 Ramkhamhaeng Rd
(Ramkhamhaeng.29 pier), +66-2-319-3036(-8), . 10:30AM-
midnight daily. One of the Major Cineplex chain of cinemas,
this is a fairly modern branch that is close to Ramkhamhaeng
University. English movies are shown, and Thai movies have
subtitles in English. There are plenty of shops and places to
eat around if you want to kill time till your movie begins. 120
baht.
Safari World (), 99 Panyaintra Rd, shopping mall that, as the name indicates, mostly focuses
+66-2-518-1000(-19), . M-F 9AM-4:30PM, Sa, Su, hols
9AM-5:30PM. Safari World is Bangkok's greatest open zoo
and leisure park. The 300-acre complex comprises a safari
park that is populated by African and Asian mammals, a ma-
rine park with amusing performances of well-trained dol-
phins and seals, a bird park and a games corner. 700 baht.
Siam Park City (), Sukhaphiban 2 Rd,
+66-2-919-7200(-19), . 10AM-6PM daily. This water amuse-
ment park contains a man-made sea with towering slides.
Satellite attractions include children's playgrounds, aviaries,
an open zoo and a botanical garden. 200 baht.
Buy
Endless clothes stalls at the street market
There are plenty of shopping malls in the area, and these
are your best bet for getting daily necessities. If you want
to buy cheap, there is an interesting street market running
kilometers north along Ramkhamhaeng Road from The Mall
Ramkhamhaeng 3. Many of the stalls only set up around 6PM,
so the area is at its liveliest around 7PM. Expect endless stalls of
Ramkhamhaeng Do
clothes and accessories, mostly visited by local (female) com-
muters.
Central Power Center Huamark, 177 Ramkhamhaeng Rd (be-
tween Ramkhamhaeng Soi 27 and 29), +66-2-718-6000.
9AM-11PM daily. Another ordinary shopping mall, which is
quite lively but not as crowded as in downtown. It looks a bit
old, but is still a nice browse as prices are noticeably cheaper
than in The Mall. As usual, most of the products cater to local
20-somethings, including clothes, accessories, bags, beauty
products and mobile phones. There is also an ATM at Aeon
Bank, which does not charge the 150 baht commission on
using foreign cards.
Fashion Island, 587-589 Ram Intra Rd (at the crossing of Ram
Intra Road and the expressway), +66-2-947-5000, . M-F
11AM-9PM, Sa-Su, hols 10AM-9PM. Fashion Island is a large
on fashion stores. But it's not just clothes, shoes and design,
as there are plenty of books, gems, jewelry and furniture on
sale. The usual chain restaurants, cafes and cinemas are also
present, as is Robinson Department Store. There's even an
amusement park with a monorail running around the mall.
The Mall Ramkhamhaeng 2, 144 Ramkhamhaeng Rd (The
Mall Ram pier), +66-2-310-1200, . M-F 10:30AM-10PM, Sa-
Su, hols 10AM-10PM. This complex actually consists of two
separate shopping malls, The Mall 3 at the northern side of
Ramkhamhaeng Road and The Mall 2 at the southern side.
Both are directly connected with each other and the road
by an overhead pedestrian bridge. It is a good place to get
something to eat, for example at Home Fresh Mart. There are
plenty of chain restaurants too, including McDonald's at the
side of the road.
The Mall Ramkhamhaeng 3, 49 Ramkhamhaeng Rd (The
Mall Ram pier), +66-2-310-1000, . M-F 10:30AM-10PM, Sa-
Su 10AM-10PM. The Mall 3 is rather generic and uninspir-
ing, and anything on sale here can be found elsewhere in
Bangkok (probably for less too). As it opened in 1986, it is
obvious that it is older and more cramped than The Mall
Bangkapi, but prices are somewhat cheaper. There are only
a few escalators, so expect to walk the stairs to get to the up-
per levels. There are a lot of clothing stores, and clothes al-
ways seem to be on sale in the common space on the ground
floor. Of course there are also the usual DVD and book stores,
and a plethora of chain restaurants, such as KFC.
The Mall Bangkapi, 3522 Lat Phrao Rd (The Mall Bangkapi
pier), +66-2-173-1000, . M-F 10:30AM-10PM, Sa-Su, hols
10AM-10PM. A huge shopping mall that looks like it has just
been pumped out of the ground (even while it already dates
from 1994!). It looks brand new, shiny white and boasts four
floors with all the chain stores you could possibly imagine.
Thais absolutely love it, and flock to it in large numbers, but
for travelers it is "been there done that". All the usual stores
are in place, but at least it is a lively area with many com-
muters. Another plus is the Aeon Bank, which is the only
126
 Districts
bank that doesn't charge the 150 baht added commission
for using foreign cards.
Eat
If you're looking for a quick snack, nearly all the sois of lower
Ramkhamhaeng have carts serving simple street food for 50
baht or less. Aimed at the locals, prices at these street markets
are remarkably cheaper than in common tourist spots. All three
The Mall shopping centers have a big selection of chain restau-
rants in all shapes and sizes.
Chlorophyll Bar and Grill, 82 Lat Phrao Soi 64 (just inside
the soi from Lat Phrao Road), +66-8-707-0268. This Bali-in-
spired restaurant features outdoor dining in a quaint garden
setting. They serve Thai and Japanese fair with an occasional
musician at the weekends.
Na Phra Ram 9 Market ( ), never even get to the city itself for those, there are plenty of
Ramkhamhaeng Rd (ARL Ramkhamhaeng; just south of the
intersection with Rama IX Road). Just a simple street food
market at the southern end of Ramkhamhaeng Road. It
seems to be at its best during evening commute time, when
many locals are picking up snacks at the hawker stalls. You
can get many varieties of satay, fish, rice and many other
things.
Power Food Center, GF, Central Power Center Huamark, 177
Ramkhamhaeng Rd (between Ramkhamhaeng Soi 27 and
29), +66-2-718-6000. 9AM-11PM daily. This is the food
court of Central Power Center shopping mall, and it does a
really good job at it. There are about a dozen separate coun-
ters for different kinds of food, including a Japanese, a Thai
and a European food counter and a beverages counter. It
works with a coupon system, so first buy coupons at the
booth. Then you can spend these at any of the counters sur-
rounding the central seating area. Recommended for those
on a budget. 45-70 baht.
Sinthorn Steak House, 3331/2 Ramkhamhaeng Rd (be-
tween soi 85 and 87, near Lam Sali intersection),
+66-2-377-7322, . 11AM-11PM daily. This steak restaurant is
touted as the largest halal restaurant in Thailand. Obvious-
ly they serve Arabian steaks, but also American steaks, Euro-
pean steaks, Italian food, Thai food and (from 4PM onwards)
Korean-style meat buffet. 300-1000 baht.
Drink
There are plenty of coffee chains at the malls, including a Star-
bucks at The Mall Bangkapi. Some gay bars have congregated
at Ramkhamhaeng Soi 89/2 near Lam Sali intersection. They are
popular among Ramkhamhaeng University students.
Jungle Jim's International Restaurant & Sports Bar, 165/5
Moo 3, Ramkhamhaeng Soi 112, +66-2-729-4763, . M-F
Ramkhamhaeng Eat
3PM-11PM, Sa-Su 7:30AM-11PM. Probably the only bar in
the area that caters to foreigners living in the area. You can
shoot some pool or sit outside at the lake. It's a place for re-
laxing, having a conversation and listening to music. There
are 25 different kinds of beer on tap.
Sleep
The western end of Ramkhamhaeng Road has lately become
more popular among expatriates, as accommodation is cheap-
er than in Sukhumvit and Siam Square, while the Saen Saep Ex-
press Boat brings you to those districts in around 20 minutes.
But further off it is still a long taxi ride to downtown.
The area around Lat Krabang Road has seen a fast develop-
ment of hotels recently due to its proximity to Suvarnabhumi
Airport. Many visitors stay the night here in case they arrive or
take off at awkward times. Some visitors are only on transit and
accommodation options for all budgets.
As Suvarnabhumi Airport is technically in Samut Prakan, there
are also some accommodation options close to the airport in
that province.
Budget
Nasa Vegas Hotel ( ), 44 Ramkhamhaeng
Rd (ARL Ramkhamhaeng; at the intersection of
Ramkhamhaeng Road and Kamphaeng Phet 7 Road),
+66-2-719-9888, . You can't miss this hotel walking down the
road as the building has an enormous size. Rooms are a bit
small and furniture a bit dated, but they are clean, so for the
money paid it is a good value. Not really close to the airport,
but it is close to the Ramkhamhaeng ARL stop, which brings
you to the airport in about 20 minutes. The downer of the
ARL is that it runs right beside the hotel, which can give noise
in some rooms. 890-2900 baht.
Contact
Most of the hotels have free WiFi, but inform before booking.
Getting online on the streets is harder, but you can try the
shopping malls. There's a Starbucks with paid WiFi at The Mall
Bangkapi. If you don't want to pay, there's free WiFi at Assump-
tion University in Ramkhamhaeng Soi 16 (Hua Mark). If you
happen to be far out into the 'burbs, Fashion Island also has
free WiFi (but you need to register for a username and pass-
word; follow the instructions from the manual at their official
website ).
127
 Districts Ramkhamhaeng Get out

Get out
If you keep driving on Ramkhamhaeng Road and continue on
Suwinthawong Road, eventually you will end up in Chacho-
engsao. Here you can find the large Wat Sothon with a busy
market in front of it (especially fun in the morning). In the
evening, the market magically disappears, leaving no trace of
its existence.

128
 Districts Phayonyothin Understand

PHAYONYOTHIN
Understand
Originally, Phahonyothin Road was named Prachathipatai
Road () and it was just 22 kilometers, stretch-
ing from Victory Monument to Don Muang Airport. Field Mar-
shal Plaek Phibunsonhkhram extended the road north all the
way north to Sing Buri, and renamed it Phahonyothin Road in
honor of General Phraya Pholphayuhasena, the second Prime
Minister of Thailand (commonly known as Phot Phahonyothin).
Later it was extended even further, all the way to the Burmese
border for a length of 1005 kilometers! This article doesn't
stretch that long, as it only covers that part of Phahonyothin
Road that is actually within the Bangkok Metropolitan Admin-
istration. But even then, Phahonyothin is a vast district by any
means, stretching 30 kilometers from north to south.

Until 2006, nearly all visitors to Thailand landed here at Don

Muang Airport. Don Muang has been an important airline hub,
and for a long time held the title of second busiest airport
in Asia by passenger volume. The first commercial flights in
Don Muang Airport started in 1924; since then, the airport
has been a commercial motor for the whole district, attracting
many hotels and businesses. Because of this commercial activ-
ity, Bangkok mostly expanded northwards and Phahonyothin
turned into one of the most developed suburbs of Bangkok.
Many of Bangkok's residents live here and commute to down-
town every day. Getting from the fringes to the southern part
of Phahonyothin might take two hours or more, depending on
traffic.

While the northern part is barely attended by foreign visitors,

the southern part has some major highlights. Shopping is the
main activity here; a visitor hasn't been to Bangkok without vis-
iting the huge Chatuchak Weekend Market, the largest mar-
ket in Southeast Asia with over 8000 stalls. And while still off
the beaten track to foreigners, Soi Ari turned into a hip artist-y
neighborhood with plenty of cheap dining options.

With the opening of Suvarnabhumi Airport in 2006, Don

Muang Airport closed down completely for one year. After a
big renovation, it was reopened in 2007 for non-connecting
domestic flights, but still few airlines make use of it. The eco-
nomic engine that Don Muang used to be suddenly stopped
working. In a snap, five-star hotels turned into two-star ho-
tels and airport-related businesses moved out of the far north.
Luckily, 30 kilometers south, commercial activity is still alive
and kicking.

129
 Districts Phayonyothin Get in

Get in

130
 Districts
Map of Phahonyothin
Phahonyothin is a major arterial road, and as many
Bangkokians that live here work in downtown, there are plenty
of ways to get in.
By public transit
Skytrain
The Skytrain is an excellent way to get in and around Phaho-
nyothin. The BTS Sukhumvit Line runs over Phahonyothin Road
with the most important areas of the district covered. The line
comes directly from Siam Square and Sukhumvit. If you're com-
ing from Silom, you must transfer from the Silom Line onto the
Sukhumvit Line at Siam BTS station.
The line passes Sanam Pao, Ari and Saphan Khwai, before
reaching its final destination at Mo Chit, which is nearby the
Chatuchak Weekend Market and the Northern Bus Terminal.
At Mo Chit, the Skytrain intersects with MRT metro system
Chatuchak Park, so you can easily continue your way from
there to Ratchadaphisek.
Metro
The metro only covers a small part of Phahonyothin, but it actu-
ally gets higher up than the Skytrain. If you need to go to the far
north, take the metro to Phahon Yothin MRT station and then
continue your way by metered taxi or bus. The metro is also
a more convenient way of getting to the Chatuchak Weekend
Market. MRT station Kamphaeng Phet drops you right in front
of the main entrance of Chatuchak, arguably the most interest-
ing part of the market. Chatuchak Park MRT station also gets
you there, but you still have to walk to the eastern entrance.
The metro terminates at Bang Sue, an important train station
that can be used if you're taking the train in northern or north-
eastern direction.
By bus
Phahonyothin stretches as far north as 30 kilometers, and the
BTS and MRT systems don't even reach close to it. So you'll have
to travel as the locals do by bus. Going by taxi is also possi-
ble, but that costs a lot more. Keep in mind that bus travel in
Phahonyothin is very troublesome, though. Getting from north
to south can take you two hours or more, depending on traf-
fic. The most important line is ordinary and air-conditioned bus
59, which runs 24 hours a day. It starts at Sanam Luang in Rat-
tanakosin and passes by Ratchdamnoen Klang Road (for Khao
San Road) and Panfa Leelard pier, the western terminus of the
Saen Saep Express Boat. It then continues through Lan Luang
Road, Phetchaburi Road, and heads north along Phaya Thai
Road, passing Victory Monument. From there, it goes all the
way north along Phahonyothin Road passing the Chatuchak
Weekend Market, Don Muang Airport and finally the Tham-
masat University campus in Rangsit.
Phayonyothin See
By taxi
Going by metered taxi is the most comfortable (and expensive)
way to get in and around the district. It can be used for both
short and long distances. Always insist on the meter. If the dri-
ver refuses, get out and get another taxi, as there is always an-
other one waiting for you. A ride from Sukhumvit or Silom to
Chatuchak Weekend Market shouldn't cost you more than 100
baht. If you're heading up north to Don Muang Airport, expect
a price in the 200-300 baht range, depending on traffic.
By train
Bang Sue Train Station is a worthy alternative for the busy and
crowded Hualamphong Train Station, but can only be used if
you're heading to the north or northeast of the country. You
can reach it using the MRT metro system, of which Bang Sue
is the last stop. You can also take the Skytrain to Mo Chit and
continue by metered taxi.
See
Architecture
Elephant Building, 369/38 Phahonyothin Soi 26 (MRT Pha-
hon Yothin, then continue by taxi), +66-2-937-3300. The
Elephant Building is one of the quirkiest buildings of the
world, and has even won awards for being one of the ugli-
est. This 32-floor high-rise is composed of three towers that
are connected to each other on the upper floors. The shape
clearly resembles a grey elephant, Thailand's national ani-
mal. It even has eyes, ears and tusks, so nothing is left to the
imagination. The building is used for residential and com-
mercial purposes, so it cannot be entered.
Do
Major Cineplex Ratchayothin, 234/2 Phahonyothin Rd
(MRT Phahon Yothin; at the intersection of Phahonyothin
Road and Ratchadaphisek Road), +66-2-421-6606, . M-W
10:30AM-midnight, Th-Su 10AM-midnight. Another branch
of the Major Cineplex line of cinemas. The ticket office is
on the second floor, the movies play at the fifth and sixth
floors. It is a large cinema with all the new Hollywood releas-
es. Thai movies are also showed and are subtitled in English.
150 baht.
131
 Districts
Buy
Chatuchak Weekend Market
Map of Chatuchak Weekend Market
Northern Bangkok's biggest draw is the Chatuchak Weekend
Market (, also "Jatujak" or even "JJ"), an incredibly vast,
35-acre indoor and outdoor market that has more than 8000
vendors selling anything and everything under the sun. To
put that number in perspective, if you browsed every stall one
minute each, non-stop for eight hours on every Saturday and
Sunday, it would take you around two months to visit them all!
A good rule of thumb is to buy immediately if you spot some-
thing interesting, as you will never find that same stall again.
Eat
Northern Bangkok's hippest place to eat is the area around
Phahonyothin Soi 7, better known as Soi Ari (or Aree). More
restaurants can be found in the nearby Rama VI Soi 30, which
is also known as Soi Ari Samphan. Many musicians and artists
migrated into this neighborhood and the bars and restau-
rants cater to this audience. Just off Ari BTS station, these busy
streets are divided into their own sois, with Ari Soi 1 featuring a
bustling market packed with food stalls and the trendier/more
expensive joints around Soi 2 and 3.
Budget
There are a variety of street food vendors at Phahonyothin Soi
7 (Soi Ari). Just off the BTS and around the corner on Soi Ari
are a multitude of street stalls selling some of Bangkok's best
street food, from Chinese-style wonton noodles, Isaan special-
ities such as som tam, larb, gai yaang, as well as pad thai,
Thai deserts and stands that can whip up basically the entire
repetoire of Thai cuisine, all for around 20-30 baht per dish.
Drink
Several bars aimed at young Thai socializers have sprung up at
the Or Tor Kor farmer's market area, near Chatuchak. A stone's
Phayonyothin Buy
throw from the Kamphaeng Phet MRT station (exit 1) are at
least 20 small pubs, bars and restaurants that operate every day
of the week.
Ari Bar (Aree Babar), 36/6 Phahonyothin Soi 7 (BTS Ari),
+66-2-279-7560. This is a simple bar that caters to those liv-
ing in the area. It is a bit quirky with eclectic music and drinks.
The sign actually says "Aaari babar", so you know where to
get in.
Cafe Dee Dee, Ari Samphan Soi 2 (at the corner of Soi
Ari Samphan and Ari Samphan Soi 2), +66-2-278-4113.
10AM-7PM daily. This is the typical cutesy coffeehouse com-
mon in Bangkok. There's a homey atmosphere as the whole
place is decorated with flowers. A nice place to step in for
some coffee or Thai tea. With a pie or sandwich.
Dbaa, Ari Soi 2 (quite deep down in Ari Soi 2; on the left side if
you walk from Soi Ari in the north). A hip bar in the Ari neigh-
borhood, popular among the locals.
Lesla, Chit Chat Club, Chok Chai 4 Soi 58 (MRT Lat Phrao),
+66-2-618-7191, . Sa 7PM-1AM. Lesla is a growing commu-
nity of lesbians in Bangkok that organizes events for them
to meet each other. Every Saturday night, a weekly get-to-
gether is held in the Chit Chat Club in the Lat Phrao neigh-
borhood. 150 baht.
Tawandang Microbrewery (Rong Beer Yereman, German
Beer Hall), 51/199-200 Moo 1 Khwaeng (at the corner of
Ram Intra Road and Yu Yen Road, at Ram Intra Soi 34),
+66-2-944-5131(-2), . 5PM-1AM daily. This is the sec-
ond branch of this popular German microbrewery (the first
branch is at Rama III Road near Silom). It is mostly popular
among upper middle-class Thais. There's good food at rea-
sonable prices, and a good stage show with many acts and
fun music. It is a stretch to find it, as it is far off from Pha-
honyothin Road, but the trip is well worth it. Most taxis will
know this place, just ask for the "Rong Beer Yereman" (Ger-
man Beer Hall) and they should understand. Reservations
are recommended, especially on weekends.
Sleep
There are many accommodation options within a fifteen
minute drive off the old Don Muang airport.
Budget
Bansabai Hostel, 8/137 Moo 3, Soi Sahakon 15, Lat Phrao Soi
71, +66-2-932-9200, . This "hostel" is not really a hostel,
more like a three-star hotel. It is unbelievably hard to find as
it is deep in the sois of Lat Phrao, and about 16 kilometers
from Victory Monument! So budget in some money for long
taxi rides. The English skills of the staff are not that good,
but no wonder, as this is far off in a quiet residential neigh-
borhood. At least they try all they can, and are very respon-
132
 Districts Phayonyothin Contact

sible and hospitable. You get a lot of service for your money:
a huge room, that is very clean, a balcony, air-conditioning,
pool, fridge, cable TV, room service and a cheap mini bar.
700-800 baht.

Chewhouse Guest House, 68/1 Soi Phahonyothin 6 (BTS Ari),

+66-2-619-1164, . An excellent guest house run by three
friendly Thai pilots; one speaks fluent English from living in
the United States for two years. There are ensuite rooms and
dorm-type rooms. It has a great backpacker vibe and cheap
beer, as well as free WiFi, water, kitchen facilities and warm
water showers. 450 baht.

Contact
Getting online in Phahonyothin is not as easy as in other dis-
tricts. Luckily, there is a free WiFi hotspot available near S&P at
the ground floor of the Shinawatra Tower III (1011 Viphavadi
Rangsit Rd, at Phahon Yothin MRT station).

Cope
Phyathai 2 Hospital, 943 Phahonyothin Rd (BTS Sanam Pao),
+66-2-617-2444(-1711), . This is a private hospital that fol-
lows international standards. Multiple languages are spo-
ken.

Get out
Just follow Phahonyothin Road to the north as the concrete
jungle continues in Rangsit. It has huge shopping malls and
a hypermodern temple complex.

Phahonyothin is already a pretty exotic part of Bangkok, but

if you want a more serene experience, try Ko Kret.

In the weekdays, when Chatuchak Weekend Market is

closed, more cheap shopping is to be had in Pratunam.

133
 City info City info Overview

City info

City info

Overview
Because of its strategic location in Southeast Asia, Siam (lat-
er Thailand) acted as a buffer-zone between the French and
British colonial empires. Bangkok itself has gained a reputation
as an independent, dynamic and influential city. Bangkok is the
political, social and economic center of Thailand, and one of
the leading cities in Southeast Asia.

Due to the 1980s and 1990s Asian investment boom, many

multinational corporations make their regional headquarters
in Bangkok and the city is a regional force in finance and busi-
ness. Its increasing influence on global politics, culture, fashion
and entertainment underlines its status as an Alpha global city.
In 2009, it was the second most expensive city in South-East
Asia behind Singapore.
The city's many cultural landmarks and attractions in addition
to its nightlife venues has made it synonymous with exoticism.
Its rapid modernization, reflected in the cityscape and the ur-
ban society, has left untouched the historic Grand Palace, Wat
Arun, Vimanmek Palace Complex, hundreds of Buddhist tem-
ples, and the city's illegal (but tolerated) red-light districts draw
about 10 million international visitors each year, second only
to London.
Bangkok has an official population of 9,100,000 residents,
while the greater Bangkok area continues some 11,971,000
(January 2008). The capital is in a heavily urbanized triangle
of central and eastern Thailand, which stretches from Nakhon
Ratchasima to the heavily Industrialized Eastern Seaboard.
Bangkok borders five other provinces: Nonthaburi, Pathum
Thani, Samut Prakan, Samut Sakhon and Nakhon Pathom, and
all five provinces are joined in the conurbation of the Bangkok
Metropolitan Area. It is served by two international airports,
Suvarnabhumi Airport and Don Mueang International Airport,
four rapid transit lines operated by the BTS, MRT, and the SRT,
with plans to add additional lines by 2020.
History
Main article: History of Bangkok
Siege of Bangkok in 1688. Fortress held by the French (A), with Siamese troops
and batteries (C). The enclosure of the village of Bangkok represented in the
lower left corner (M) is today's Thonburi.
The town of Bangkok (Thai: (listen) (helpinfo)) began as
a small trading center and port community on the west bank
of the Chao Phraya River before the establishment of the Ayut-
thaya Kingdom, the precursor of modern Thailand, which ex-
isted from 1350 to 1767. The etymology of the town's name is
unclear. Bang is the Central Thai name for a town situated on
the bank of a river. It is believed that "Bangkok" derived from ei-
ther Bangkok, kok () being the Thai name for the Java plum
(ma-kok, ), one of several trees bearing olive-like fruits); or
Bang Koh, koh meaning "island," a reference to the area's land-
scape which was carved by rivers and canals.
After the fall of Ayutthaya to the Burmese Kingdom in 1767,
the newly declared King Taksin established a new capital in
the area of the then Bangkok, which became known as Thon-
buri. When Taksin's reign ended in 1782, King Buddha Yodfa
Chulaloke reconstructed the capital on the east bank of the
river and gave the city a ceremonial name (see below) which
became shortened to its current official name, Krung Thep Ma-
ha Nakhon. The new city, however, also inherited the name
Bangkok, which continued to be used by foreigners to refer to
the entire city and became its official English name, while in
Thai the name still refers only to the old district on the west
bank of the river. The city has since vastly modernized and
undergone numerous changes, including the introduction of
transportation and utility infrastructure in the reigns of King
Mongkut and King Chulalongkorn, and quickly developed into
the economic center of Thailand.

134
 City info City info Full name

Full name Administration

Full name of Bangkok, written in front of Bangkok Administrative Building

The full ceremonial name of the city given by King Buddha Yo-
dfa Chulaloke, and later edited by King Mongkut, is:

Krung Thep Mahanakhon Amon Rattanakosin Mahinthara

Districts of Bangkok
Yuthaya Mahadilok Phop Noppharat Ratchathani
Main article: Bangkok Metropolitan Administration
Burirom Udomratchaniwet Mahasathan Amon Phi-
man Awatan Sathit Sakkathattiya Witsanukam Prasit Bangkok is one of two special administrative areas in Thailand,
(Thai: the other being Pattaya, in which citizens vote to choose their
governor, unlike in Thailand's 77 provinces (changwat). In the
(lis- 2009 gubernatorial election, M.R. Sukhumbhand Paribatra was
ten) (helpinfo)). elected governor.

This ceremonial name uses two ancient Indian languages,
Pli and Sanskrit, initiated with the only original Thai word
Krung which means "capital". According to the romanisation
of these languages, it can actually be written as Krung-d-
vamahnagara amararatanakosindra mahindryudhy mahti-
lakabhava navaratanarjadhn purramya uttamarjanivsana
mahsthna amaravimna avatrasthitya shakrasdattiya vish-
nukarmaprasiddhi (listen) (helpinfo). It translates to "The city of
angels, the great city, the eternal jewel city, the impregnable
city of God Indra, the grand capital of the world endowed with
nine precious gems, the happy city, abounding in an enormous
Royal Palace that resembles the heavenly abode where reigns
the reincarnated god, a city given by Indra and built by Vish-
nukarma".
Local school children are taught the full name, although few
can explain its meaning because many of the words are archa-
ic, and unknown to all but a few. Most Thais who do recall the
full name do so as a result of its use in a popular song, Krung
Thep Maha Nakhon (1989) by Asanee-Wasan Chotikul and will
often recount it by recalling the song at the same time, much
as English speakers might sing the alphabet song while recit-
ing the English alphabet.
The full name of the city is listed by Guinness Book of Records
as the world's longest place name.
The urban sprawl of the greater Bangkok Metropolitan Area
extends beyond the borders of Bangkok province, spilling in-
to the neighbouring provinces of Nonthaburi, Samut Prakan,
Pathum Thani, Nakhon Pathom and Samut Sakhon. The
province as it is today was created in 1971 when the previous
Bangkok province, changwat Phra Nakhon, merged with Thon-
buri province.
Bangkok is subdivided into 50 districts (khet, also sometimes
called amphoe in the other provinces), which are further sub-
divided into 169 kwaeng (, equivalent to tambon in oth-
er provinces). Each district is managed by a district chief ap-
pointed by the governor. District councils, elected to four-
year terms, serve as advisory bodies to their respective district
chiefs.
There is also an elected Bangkok Metropolitan Council, which
has power over municipal ordinances and the city's budget.
The last elections for local councils in Bangkok were held on 23
July 2006. The government of Bangkok is called the Bangkok
Metropolitan Administration or the BMA.
The seal of the city shows the god Indra riding in the clouds on
Erawan, a mythological elephant-shaped creature. In his hand
Indra holds a lightning bolt, which is his weapon to drive away
drought. The seal is based on a painting done by Prince Naris.
The tree symbol of Bangkok is Ficus benjamina.

135
 City info City info Geography

recorded in January 1924, January 1955, January 1974 and De-

Geography cember 1999. The hottest year on record was 1997 (average
yearly at Don Mueang 30.0 C) and the coldest was 1975 (aver-
Topography and climate age yearly at Don Mueang 26.3 C). The coldest daytime max-
imum temperature was 19.9 C (68F), recorded in December
The Bangkok special administrative area covers 1,568.7 km2 1992.
(606 sq mi), making it the 68th largest province in Thailand.
Much of the area is considered the city of Bangkok, therefore
making it one of the largest cities in the world. The Chao Phraya
River, which stretches 372km (231mi), is Bangkok's main ge- Districts
ographical feature. The Chao Phraya River basin, the area sur-
rounding Bangkok, and the nearby provinces comprise a se-
ries of plains and river deltas that lead into the Bay of Bangkok
about 30km (19mi) south of the city center. This gave rise to
Bangkok's appellation as the "Venice of the East" due to the
number of canals and passages that divide the area into sep-
arate patches of land. The city once used these canals, which
were plentiful within Bangkok itself, as divisions for city dis-
tricts. However, as the city grew in the second half of the 20th
century, the plan was abandoned and a different system of di-
vision was adopted.

Bangkok's Democracy Monument at Rattanakosin Island, the historical zone

in Bangkok

Bangkok's Chao Phraya River cuts the city between Thon Buri and Krung Thep
core, and is at times referred to as the River of Angels.

Bangkok lies about two meters (6.5ft) above sea level, which
causes problems for the protection of the city against floods
during the monsoon season. Occasionally after a downpour,
water in canals and the river overflows the banks, resulting in
floods in some areas. The Bangkok Metropolitan Administra-
tion (BMA) has recently installed higher banks alongside some
canals to keep water levels from reaching street level. There
are however some downsides for Bangkok's extensive canal
routes, as the city is rumored to be sinking an average of two
inches a year as it lies entirely on a swamp.

Bangkok has a tropical wet and dry climate under the Kp-
pen climate classification system. Average temperatures in the
city are about 2C (3.6F) higher than the ones shown for the
Don Mueang Airport during the 19601990 period. The high-
est recorded maximum temperature is 40.8 C (105.4F) in May Yaowarat Road near the banks of the Chao Phraya River is Bangkok's China-
1983 and the lowest recorded minimum temperature is 9.9 town. The city is home to nearly 250,000 Chinese immigrants.
C (49.8 F) in January 1955. The coldest temperatures were

136
 City info
Bangkok has 50 districts or khet, which mark the administra-
tive subdivisions under the authority of the Bangkok Metro-
politan Administration. These are further subdivided into 169
khwaeng (), roughly equivalent to sub-districts tambon in
the other provinces.
However, these district areas might not accurately represent
functional divisions of Bangkok's neighborhoods. Throughout
the years, Bangkok has grown from a city scattered along the
river to a metro area that spans as many as six provinces. The
city's main business districts and residential areas are continu-
ously expanding. The influx of foreigners from Western coun-
tries as well as immigrants from neighboring Laos, Myanmar,
Cambodia and many other Asian countries along with the
growth of the Thai population has stemmed hundreds of hous-
ing projects around the metro area, developing communities
along the outskirts. Within years, these communities are en-
gulfed by the greater Bangkok and become another part of this
urban jungle.
The Sukhumvit area of Bangkok
Central Bang Na area in Bangkok
As the city expanded on the outskirts, the inner city has
nowhere to grow but up. The city has a registered 1,000 sky-
scrapers and ranks 17th as the world's tallest city. This does
not include hundreds of new buildings predicted as part of
the construction boom in 2007 and the coming years. Ar-
eas such as Silom-Sathon and Asok have for decades been
City info Geography
Thailand's business center. From 1985 to 1996, Thailand ex-
perienced the world's highest growth rates and underwent
an economic transformation, Bangkok went through dramat-
ic changes.[citation needed] The Ratchadaphisek area was turned
into a business district which continued through the Asok area
up north for five kilometers (3mi). The Sukhumvit area, stretch-
ing 1520km (912mi), gradually turned into a mixed com-
mercial and residential area. Wireless Road and Chitlom are
where some of Bangkok's most expensive land plots exist. Part
of the British Embassy on the corner of Wireless and Rama I
Roads, nine rai or approximately 14,400m2 (155,000 sqft) in
area, was sold for USD 92 million or THB 3.24 billion.
Siam Square is Central Bangkok's shopping district, combining several large
malls and side shops with both local and international brands.
The most important business districts of Bangkok include
Silom, Bangrak, Pinklao, Sathon, Phra Ram 2, Phetchaburi, Phra
Nakhon, Pathumwan, Chatuchak (new central business dis-
trict), and Phra Ram 3 (new financial center).
Bangkok's Phra Nakhon district alongside Dusit is where most
governmental agencies and ministries have their offices. Most
of the well-known tourist attractions are also in this particular
area due its cultural & historical heritage. This part of Bangkok
is perhaps the most popular for tourists as most notable attrac-
tions such as the Grand Palace, Wat Pho, the Democracy Mon-
ument, the Giant Swing, Sanam Luang and other venues are
located here. Thon Buri also has its fair share of historic mon-
uments mainly located near the river, such as Wat Arun. The
Victory Monument in Bangkok is one of the city's biggest bus
destinations. Although not officially a bus depot, its location in
the center of city transits as many as 20 bus lines as well as a
BTS Skytrain station. Starting from Victory Monument, Phaho-
nyothin road early sois are occupied by ministries, government
agencies, commercial buildings as well as upper-middle class
residential areas. Further to the north, after the Lat Phrao/Pha-
honyothin intersection, the Northern Corridor is an expanding
business district, where the famous Elephant Building can be
found.
Bangkok's north and eastern areas are primarily residential ar-
eas for middle class residents of Bangkok. Whereas the inner
city often has small apartments and low rises for poor immi-
grants, Lat Phrao and Si Nakharin offer residential compounds
137
 City info City info Economy

and townhouses. The two areas cover as much as 100 km2

(40 sq mi) to 150 km2 (60 sq mi) each, and have turned into
what is now part of Bangkok as more suburban housing de- Economy
velopments sprawl further out to the east and north. The west
of Bangkok in Thon Buri is another growing area, approaching
the degree of development experienced by the north and east.
Suvarnabhumi Airport in the east is seen as a jump start for
the eastern expansion of Bangkok as Don Mueang was for the
north.

Ratchaprasong is at the forefront of Bangkok's shopping scene.

The newly renovated Central World Plaza intends to serve as a
square to Bangkokians. Just up the street is Siam Square, similar
to Shinjuku in Tokyo and Oxford Street and Piccadilly Circus in
London. The Sukhumvit area also serves as a shopping district
for foreigners. The popular Chatuchak Weekend Market in the
north of the city is where many people head for cheap, used
and high quality products.

Bangkok's poorest districts are spread throughout the city.

However, the most concentrated area is just north of the Port
of Bangkok at the turn of the Chao Phraya River. For an area of
10 square kilometres (4sqmi), the Khlong Toei district houses
one of the poorest areas in the country with half-built houses
and midrises for immigrants and workers from the northeast
Isan provinces.

Sathorn's Robot Building completed in 1986, currently houses Singapore-

an-based United Overseas Bank's Bangkok headquarters and is a symbol of
Bangkok's rapid growth in the mid 1980s
The Rajprasong, Chidlom and Sukhumvit skylines of Bangkok at night
with Lumphini Park in the center viewed from the Sathorn-Silom CBD.

Green zones and major parks

Lumphini Park

Bangkok has large sections of greenery either preserved by the

Department of National Forestry or designated as green zones.
The city however, continues to lack a green belt development
as economic activity continues to pour into the capital, result-
ing in massive housing projects along the suburbs.

138
 City info City info Demographics

Bangkok is home to the headquarters of all of Thailand's ma-

jor commercial banks and financial institutions; 27 financial
institutions and a number of international banks located in
Bangkok include ABN AMRO, ANZ, Bank of America, Bank of
Baroda, Bank of China, Bank of Tokyo-Mitsubishi, CIMB, Citi-
group, DBS Bank, Deutsche Bank, HSBC, Industrial and Com-
mercial Bank of China, Goldman Sachs, JP Morgan, Barclays,
Indian Overseas Bank, UBS, Credit Suisse, OCBC Bank, Mizuho
Corporate Bank, Calyon, RBS, RHB Bank, Macquarie Group, ING
Bank, Scotia Bank, Sumitomo Mitsui Banking Corporation, Unit-
ed Overseas Bank, BNP Paribas, Wells Fargo Bank and Stan-
dard Chartered. hold at least 1 billion dollars in total assets.
Their bank deposits totaled approximately THB 9.6 trillion, the
equivalent of USD 314 billion at the end of the third quarter
in 2007. A large number of multinational corporations base
their regional headquarters in Bangkok due to the lower cost
of the workforce and firm operations relative to other major
Asian business centers. Thirteen Bangkok-based companies
make the Forbes 2000 list annually. The list includes the largest
Thai bank, Bangkok Bank, the country's largest listing as well as
the state-owned energy firm PTT, and the renowned Charoen-
Phokphand agri-foods conglomerate.[citation needed]

The market for flights to enter Laos and Cambodia is heavily

dominated by airlines based in Bangkok such as THAI Airways
International, Bangkok Airways, and the multitude of low cost
airlines in Thailand. Telecommunications, retail, real estate, air-
Thai Airways International headquarters lines, and media conglomerates mainly cater to the country's
growing population, however, few Thai corporations venture
Bangkok is the economic center of Thailand, dominating the
country's economy and dwarfing any other urban centers. De- overseas and gain notoriety.[citation needed]
velopment continues to pour in to Bangkok mostly neglect-
Tourism is a significant contributor to Thailand's economy, pro-
ing the rest of the nation. It is ranked as the 54th richest urban
viding about 5 percent of GDP. Bangkok is Thailand's principal
agglomeration, slightly behind Singapore and Metro Manila.
international gateway and a destination in its own right. This
Its combined economic output is roughly 89 billion dollars in
giant market has made Bangkok a prime location for hotel op-
purchasing power parity terms, which accounts for roughly 16
erations as well as the launching pad for small and medium ac-
percent of Thailand's GDP also in PPP terms. However, there
commodation enterprises. Moreover, Bangkok-based hospital-
is a quite a large discrepancy and statisticians and economists
ity companies such as Dusit Thani Group, Erawan Group, and
would claim that Bangkok accounts for nearly 75 percent of
Siam Hotels and Resorts, have all expanded operations and can
Thailand's service sector which accounts for 45.2 percent of
officially be classified as a multinational corporation in its own
Thailand's 548 billion dollar economy. With the given GDP of
right.[citation needed]
the city, the estimates for per capita income is roughly 14,000
dollars, fairly low for a megacity. More realistic but unclaimed Income inequality is a growing issue in Bangkok, especially
estimates put the city's output as high as 210 billion dollars, ac- between relatively unskilled lower-income immigrants from
counting for 38 percent of national income and per capita in- rural provinces in Thailand and neighboring countries and
come at 33,000 dollars.[citation needed] middle-class professionals (45% of registered residents), busi-
ness elites, and retired and working foreign expats. About
The Stock Exchange of Thailand, or the SET is located on
7 percent of Bangkok's population (excluding illegal immi-
Ratchadaphisek Road in inner-Bangkok with over 523 listed
grants who constitute about 58 percent of population) live
companies and combined market capitalization of about THB
below the poverty line compared to the national average of 9
6 trillion (USD 197 billion) as of 31 January 2007. Due to the
percent.[citation needed]
large amount of foreign representation, Thailand has for sever-
al years been a mainstay of the Southeast Asian economy and a
key center in Asian business. The indices of the stock exchange
are SET Index, SET50 Index and SET100 Index. As of Fall 2009, Demographics
the index is one of Asia's top performing indices, up 58 percent
since January. The 2005 statistics report by the BMA Data Center notes a
registered population of 5,658,953. However, this figure does

139
 City info City info Transportation

not take into account the many unregistered residents. Most

of the citys population are ethnic Thais. The Chinese are by
far the largest minority. Recently, Bangkok has experienced a
large influx of foreign immigrants, long-term residents, and ex-
patriates. Long-term foreign residents include 250,000 main-
land Chinese, 85,000 Indians (most of whom are Sikh), of whom
more than 80% have dual Thai citizenship, 44,000 Japanese,
25,000 Americans[citation needed], 45,000 Europeans, 15,000 Tai-
wanese, 20,000 South Koreans, 6,000 Nigerians, 7,500 Aus-
tralians, 12,000 people of Arabic speaking countries, 20,000
Malaysians, 4,000 Singaporeans, 5,000 Filipinos, and 800 New
Zealanders. It is estimated that 510% of Bangkok's population
is of Burmese (a large number of them are considered by Thai
authority as illegal immigrants).[citation needed] A vast majority
of the population, 92%, is Buddhist. The rest are Muslim (6%),
Christian (1%), Hindu/Sikh (0.6%), Jewish (300 residents), and
others.[citation needed] There are some 450 Buddhist temples,
170 mosques, 60 churches, 3 Hindu Temples, 3 synagogues, 1
Sikh gurdwara and 1 Jain temple in Bangkok.[citation needed]

Suvarnabhumi Airport Rail Link Makkasan to the airport, opened August 2010
Transportation
River and canals network
An elaborate network of canals known as khlongs gave
Bangkok the nickname "Venice of the East" at a time when most
transportation was by boat. Today, nearly all of the canals have
been filled in and converted into streets. While many khlongs
still exist with people living along them and markets often be-
ing operated along the banks, most are severely polluted. A no-
table khlong market is the floating market in Taling Chan dis-
trict. Through downtown Bangkok runs the Khlong Saen Saeb,
which has a canal boat service. The wide river Chao Phraya,
flowing through the city, has several cross-river ferries and the
Chao Phraya Express Boat with as many as thirty stops along
the both banks extending as far as the northern suburb of Non-
thaburi.
Bhumibol Bridge

Roads
Several elevated highways, newly rebuilt intersections, and
many partially finished road and rail projects dot the landscape
around greater Bangkok, but have done little to overcome the
notorious traffic jams on Bangkok's surface roads as private ve-
hicle usage continues to outstrip infrastructure development.

Due to a large number of traffic jams in Bangkok, the elevated

highway (Thai: , RTGS: thang duan, "express way"), link-
ing most road networks in Bangkok together, is another choice
for the rush. However, tax is to be paid for utilizing the high-
way depending on size of the vehicle. This highway also leads
to some outskirts of Bangkok including Suvarnabhumi Interna-
tional Airport.
Ratchadamri Rd.
Left Side is Central World Square.

140
 City info
Inner-City Buses
A regular bus service is provided by the Bangkok Mass Transit
Authority (BMTA) and it operates throughout Bangkok as well
as to adjoining provinces around the clock on certain routes.
Public buses are plentiful and cheap, with a minimum fare of
7 baht to most destinations within metropolitan Bangkok. Air-
conditioned buses have minimum and maximum fares of 11
and 24 baht, respectively. Air-conditioned micro-buses charge
a flat fare of 25 baht all routes. A bus route map is available at
bookshops.
Rail systems
BTS, Skytrain over Sala Daeng Intersection
On the birthday of HM King Rama IX, 5 December 1999, an ele-
vated two-line Skytrain (officially called BTS) metro system was
opened. The remains of the failed BERTS (Hopewell) project can
still be seen all the way from the main railroad station out to-
wards Don Mueang Airport. Due to the Asian financial crisis of
1997 construction was halted and the concrete pillars were left
unused.
The MRT subway system opened for use in July 2004. The MRT
connects the northern train station of Bang Sue to the Hua
Lamphong central railway station near the city centre, while al-
so going through the eastern part of Bangkok. It connects to
the BTS system at BTS stations Mo Chit, Asok, and Sala Daeng.
A new high speed elevated railroad called the Suvarnabhumi
Airport Link, links the city with the new Suvarnabhumi Airport.
The announced opening date after facing many delays was fi-
nally set on August 23, 2010. The Airport Express railway and
City line (commuter service) is operated by the State Railway of
Thailand. It provides a 28.5km (17.7mi) link between the new
airport and the City Air Terminal (CAT) at Makkasan where it
connects with MRT Phetchaburi station and has another con-
nection to the BTS at Phaya Thai. There are plans to extend the
line to Don Mueang and Rangsit (SRT Dark Red Line), but again,
this is very dependent on the political situation.
City info Transportation
Plans have been approved for a further extension of the BTS
Silom line from Wongwian Yai to Bang Wa (4.5 km/2.8 mi),
Samrong to Samut Prakan (8 km/5.0 mi), Mo Chit to Saphan
Mai (11.9km/7.4mi) and the National Stadium to Phran Nok
(7.7km/4.8mi). This includes five underground stations in the
Rattanakosin area. The State Railway of Thailand has also been
given approval to complete the Dark Red and Light Green lines.
Alongside, MRT has also begun construction on two new lines,
the Purple line from Bang Yai to Bang Sue, and the Blue line
from Hua Lampong to Bang Khae and Bang Sue to Tha Pra.
For intercity travel by train, most passengers begin their trips
at Hua Lamphong at the southern end of the MRT. Here, trains
connect Bangkok to Malaysia in the south, Chiang Mai to the
north, and Nong Khai to the northeast and beyond to Laos.
When viewing the map, not all MRT and BTS lines stop at every
station. Currently, the blue MRT line goes from Hua Lampong
to Asok. The two BTS lines extend from Mo Chit to On Nut, and
from National Stadium to Wongwian Yai. This line's final stop
used to be Saphan Taksin station but has subsequently been
extended across the Chao Phraya River to Wongwian Yai. Sta-
tions with BTS/MRT interchange are Mo Chit, Sala Daeng, and
Asok.
Bus services
Virtually all cities and provinces are easily reached by bus from
Bangkok. For destinations in the southwest and the west, bus-
es leave from the Southern Bus Terminal, west of the city in the
Thonburi area. For destinations in the southeast, such as Pat-
taya, Ko Samet and Ko Chang, buses leave from the Eastern Bus
Terminal at Ekkamai. For all destinations north and northeast,
the Northern Bus Terminal is at Mo Chit. Bangkok's less acces-
sible southern terminal was recently moved even farther out.
Though Bangkok is well connected to other cities, getting to
the bus terminals often are a challenge in themselves[citation
needed]
.
There are numerous companies that provide bus services with-
in Bangkok Metropolitan Region. The main operator, Bangkok
Mass Transit Authority, has a service area covering Bangkok
and its suburban areas in the adjacent provinces of Non-
thaburi, Samut Prakan, Pathum Thani, Nakhon Pathom, and Sa-
mut Sakhon. It serves approximately 3 million passengers per
day. The service hours are 05.0023.00 hrs, except 24-hr night-
owl service on some routes. In September 2005, BMTA owns
a fleet of 3,579 busescomprising 1,674 ordinary buses and
1,905 air-conditioned buses. In addition to BMTA-owned bus-
es, there are 3,485 private-own contract buses, 1,113 contract
minibuses, 2,161 side-street songthaews, and 5,519 vans. In to-
tal, there are 15,857 buses and vans over 427 routes across 8
zones.
Premier Metro Bus 7 Line
Zone 1: North (Hubs: Rangsit, Bang Khen)
Zone 2: Upper East (Hubs: Bang Kapi, Minburi)
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 City info
Zone 3: Lower East (Hubs: Samrong, Samut Prakan)
Zone 4: South Central (Hubs: Khlong Toei)
Zone 5: Southwest (Hubs: Dao Khanong, Phra Pradaeng)
Zone 6: West (Hubs: Bang Khae, Thonburi)
Zone 7: Northwest (Hubs: Nonthaburi, Pak Kret)
Zone 8: Central (Hubs: Huai Khwang)
Airports
Terminal at Suvarnabhumi Airport
Terminal interior
Thai Airbus A340 (HS-TLA) at Suvarnabhumi Airport
Bangkok is one of Asia's most important air transport hubs.
In 2005, more than ninety airlines served Don Mueang In-
ternational Airport (IATA: DMK; ICAO: VTBD). It was the 18th
busiest airport in the world, second busiest in Asia by passen-
ger volume, 15th busiest in the world and fourth busiest in Asia
City info Transportation
in international passenger volume. Don Mueang consistently
ranked 19th in the world in cargo traffic, and seventh in the
Asia-Pacific region. Don Mueang is considered to be one of the
world's oldest international airports, its opening in March 1914
making it almost twenty years older than London Heathrow. It
has three terminals and is located about 30km (19mi) north
from the heart of Bangkok.
On 28 September 2006, Suvarnabhumi Airport (IATA: BKK;
ICAO: VTBS), became Bangkok's official international airport,
replacing Don Mueang. Pronounced Suwannaphum (RTGS), or
loosely Su-wan-na-poom, the airport is located southeast of
the city center in Bang Phli district, Samut Prakan Province.
The progress of Suvarnabhumi Airport dates back to the early
1970s when a large plot of land 8,000 acres (3,237ha) (32km)
was bought. A student uprising in October of the same year
prevented further progress with the development when the
military government of Thanom Kittikachorn was subsequent-
ly overthrown. After several military coups and the Asian finan-
cial crisis of 1997, construction finally began in 2002, after five
years of clearing the site. The first flights landed in Septem-
ber 2006, shortly after another military coup. Its two parallel
runways are connected by the five concourses of the main ter-
minal building. The airport features a 132.2-metre (434ft)-tall
control tower, the tallest in Asia and one meter (3.2 ft) taller
than Kuala Lumpur International Airport control tower. It is the
tallest stand alone purpose built control tower in the world. Air-
ports of Thailand Plc. (AoT) have announced another terminal
to accommodate a further fifteen million passengers. This will
be part of Phase 2 of the airport, which is expected to begin
construction in three to five years. The main airline of Suvarn-
abhumi is Thai Airways International.
Much of the construction of Suvarnabhumi Airport took place
during the premiership of Thaksin Shinawatra, who took per-
sonal responsibility for its timely completion. Despite a "cere-
monial" opening on the planned date, construction was over
a year late. Continuing controversy surrounds the quality of
planning and construction; accusations include cracks in the
runway, overheated buildings, a severe shortage of toilet facil-
ities and lengthy passenger walks to departure gates. The fact
that the airport is already overcrowded and near its maximum
capacity less than a year after opening is another concern.
Don Mueang remains in use as a base of the Royal Thai Air
Force. Most of the low-cost airlines now use the airport for do-
mestic flights, in an effort to ease congestion at Suvarnabhumi,
until the next terminal is opened.
Transport network
Khlong Saen Saep Express Boat
Chao Phraya Express Boat
Bangkok Noi Longtail Express Boat
Sathon-Khlong Toei Express Boat
Sathon-Wat Dao Khanong Express Boat
Sathon-Samut Prakan Express Boat
Khlong Phasi Charoen Express Boat (Under new testing)
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 City info City info Education

Khlong Lat Phrao Express Boat (Under new testing)

Khlong Prem Prachakhon Express Boat (Under new testing)
Khlong Phadung Krung Kasem Express Boat (Under new
testing)
BTS or Bangkok Skytrain
MRT or Bangkok Metro
SRT or State Railway of Thailand
BRT (Bangkok) or Bus Rapid Transit
METROBUS or Premier Metro Bus
BTS Links
BMTA or Bangkok Bus
Suvarnabhumi Airport Link
SRT Lines (U/C, finish 2012)
Chula-Siam Monorail (Planned)
Main Auditorium of Chulalongkorn University
Bangkok City Tour Shuttle Bus

Taxis

A typical Bangkok taxi

Bangkok has many taxis. Many roam the streets looking for cus-
tomers, but there are also a number of taxi companies whose
vehicles can be booked by telephone. Taxis are metered, with
a fixed starting fare, and charge by distance and waiting time.

Education Dome Building of Thammasat University

The majority of the country's universities, both public and pri-

The Main Auditorium of Kasetsart University
vate, are located in and/or around the capital. Chulalongkorn
University, Kasetsart University, Mahidol University and Tham-
masat University are at the forefront of tertiary education. They
are public universities and have been a foundation for young
thinkers for nearly a century. Over the past few decades the
general trend of pursuing a university degree has prompted
the founding of new universities to meet the needs of the Thai
students. Bangkok became not only a place where immigrants
and provincial Thais go for job opportunities, but also for a
chance to receive a university degree. Ramkhamhaeng Univer-
sity emerged in 1971 as the only open university. It has the
highest enrolment of students compared with any other Thai
university. Ramkhamhaeng was one of the Thai government's

143
 City info
ways to deal with the rise in a demand for tertiary education.
The demand for higher education has led to the founding of
many other universities and colleges in the metropolitan area.
Vocational/technical colleges are also on the rise. One of such
is SAE Institute Bangkok (started in 2002). In recent years a large
number of private institutions, primarily with Western ties and
exchange programs, were established in the capital. The rise in
the number of schools offering English teaching has raised the
bar for many state-run institutions to compete with the stan-
dards set by private education.
Assumption University, Chulalongkorn University, Kasetsart
University, Mahidol University, Silpakorn University, Srinakhar-
inwirot University, and Thammasat University rank among the
nation's top universities. Bangkok also plays host to the Asian
Institute of Technology (AIT), built as an international co-op-
erative institute between Asia-Pacific nations. There are also
many Buddhist universities branching into the realm of reli-
gious studies in which Bangkok has taken a leading role.
Amidst all this, however, the tertiary education scene in
Bangkok is still over-populated with non-Bangkokians. Offi-
cials currently stress the need for a revamping of the Thai ed-
ucational system. Education has long been a prime factor in
the centralization of Bangkok and will play a vital role in the
government's efforts to decentralize the country.
Health care and medical centers
Bangkok International Hospital in Thailand
Bangkok has a large number of hospitals and medical centers,
which include eight of the country's fifteen medical schools.
Many hospitals in Bangkok act as tertiary care centers, receiv-
ing referrals from distant parts of the country. Lately, especial-
ly in the private sector, there has been much growth in med-
ical tourism, with many hospitals providing services specifical-
ly catering to foreigners.
The Bumrungrad Hospital is the main international class hospi-
tal on Sukumvit Road, and is popular with expats, wealthy Thais
and medical tourists. Its closest competitors are Samithivej
Hospitaland and Bangkok Hospital Medical Center. All 3 of
City info Health care and medical centers
which have achieved accreditation from the Joint Commission
International (JCI).
Tourism
Main article: Tourism in Bangkok
Wat Phra Kaew
Bangkok is considered to be one of the world's tourist hotspots.
Bangkok is Thailand's major tourist gateway, which means that
the majority of foreign tourists arrive in Bangkok. The city
boasts some of the country's most visited historical venues
such as the Grand Palace, Wat Pho, and Wat Arun. There are
numerous projects to maintain Bangkok's historic sites in the
Rattanakosin area and river districts.
Culture
Main article: Culture of Bangkok
Festivals and events
Bangkok Songkran Festival 1315 April The traditional Thai
New Year is an occasion for merriment all over the city, but
most notably at Sanam Luang, near the Grand Palace, where
the revered Phra Phuttha Sihing image is displayed and bathed
by devotees. In the Wisutkasat area, a Miss Songkran beauty
contest is held and accompanied by merit-making and enter-
tainment. Khao San Road, Bang Lamphu area is also one of the
high-spots in the city where locals and tourists play water by
the water-throwing activities.
Royal Ploughing Ceremony May
An ancient Brahman ritual, conducted at Sanam Luang, in
which farmers believe, is able to forecast the abundance of the
next rice crop. The event is a result of a series of ceremonies
that are conducted by Phraya Raek Na, portrayed by a high-
ranking official from the Ministry of Agriculture and Coopera-
tives who wears colourful traditional costumes. This ceremo-
144
 City info City info Culture

ny was re-introduced in 1960 by King Bhumibol Adulyadej and Media

is considered the official commencement of the rice-growing
season.

The Queens Birthday Celebration 12 August

To display their loyalty and to honour Queen Sirikit on the occa-

sion of her royal birthday, the Thai people decorate their hous-
es and public buildings. Around Bangkok, Ratchadamnoen Av-
enue, the area around the Grand Palace and other well-known
locations are bedecked with coloured lights and magnificent
adornments.

Trooping of the Colours December

The King and Queen preside over this impressive annual event,
held in the Royal Plaza near the equestrian statue of King Chu-
lalongkorn. Dressed in colourful uniforms, amid much pomp
and ceremony, members of the elite Royal Guards swear alle-
giance to the King and march past members of the Royal Fam-
ily.

The Kings Birthday Celebrations 5 December

King Bhumibol Adulyadej, the worlds longest reigning

monarch is well beloved and deeply respected by all Thais old
and young. The occasion of his royal birthday provides his loyal
subjects the opportunity to express their reverence for him. All
over the country, buildings and homes are elaborated and the
area around the Grand Palace is spectacularly illuminated.

Major Cineplex on Ramkamhaeng

There is an average of four million readers for more than 25

Bangkok based newspapers, one of which, Thai Rath, sells over
a million copies a day. Bangkok also has two major English-lan-
guage dailies, the Bangkok Post and The Nation and the new
free-sheet, The Daily Xpress. The Asian Wall Street Journal and
International Herald Tribune are printed in Bangkok and have
high distribution numbers. There are also a number of weekly
publications normally published on Fridays that deal with po-
litical issues. Other publications, such as lifestyle and entertain-
ment magazines are also plentiful.

Many gossip and fashion magazines are also published in

Bangkok, especially after the launch of the Bangkok Fashion
City project in 2004. Since then, United Broadcasting Corpora-
tion (UBC, or now True Visions), the Thai cable operator, has
launched a new channel devoted to Thai fashion as well as a
Thai edition of E! Entertainment television.

There is a large amount of television media in Bangkok. Six

television stations operated and controlled by the government
and many major cables TV operators such as True Visions (for-
mally UBC), MTV, TTV, PTV, ASTV are based in Bangkok. They
broadcast a total of 100 channels to viewers with including
many Thai television stations such as TITV, Nation Channel,
ETV, DLTV, Royal TV, Money Channel, SMe TV, six sports chan-
nels, and Channel V, among others. There are more than 50

145
 City info City info Culture

FM radio stations within the Bangkok metro vicinity and 50 AM ative & Design Center as well as many other museums, concert
channels including international brands such as Virgin Radio. halls, theatres, and art galleries. It is home to the Thailand Cul-
Radio stations mainly broadcast in Thai, although some broad- tural Centre and the National Theatre.
cast solely in English due to the growing expat population and
the growing number of locals who enjoy learning English.
Sport
Chalerm Krung Theater and the National Theater have been in
Main article: List of sport venues in Bangkok
operation since the early 20th century whereas the newer Thai-
land Cultural Center hosts a variety of plays and events.

Bangkok has dozens of cinema multiplexes, and the city hosts

two major film festivals annually, the Bangkok International
Film Festival and the World Film Festival of Bangkok.

Art
Further information: List of museums and art galleries in
BangkokandList of theatres in Bangkok

Rajamangala National Stadium

Modern sports have been introduced to the people of Bangkok

Vimanmek Palace
The National Gallery located near Sanam Luang is a popular
venue for art in Thailand.
The arts in Bangkok have well developed almost exclusive-
ly and anonymously in the services of Theravada Buddhism
since the golden age in Ayutthaya period and continuing to
the present day by incorporating Western elements which is
called the Rattanakosin or Bangkok style. Nowadays, the mod-
ern art scene is centered around Bangkok as the capital of con-
temporary art in the region, while traditional art can be found
in many commercial areas in the old city as well as temples and
palaces throughout the city. There are also a number of artists
who prefer to live and work outside the metropolis. The num-
ber of artists is constantly on the rise, so an increasing variety
of works are available on the art market. Many art galleries in
Bangkok tend to sell work restricted to traditional rural motifs.
The artists creating this type of art are often influenced by tradi-
tional Buddhist beliefs and motifs, and are popular among the
general Thai public. Nevertheless, some Thai artists are break-
ing away from these norms by addressing more controversial
issues in their work, for example the loss of traditional values
and the obsession with money in today's society.
Bangkok is home to the National Gallery of Thailand, Bangkok
Metropolitan Museum of Contemporary Art and Thailand Cre-
dating back a century by King Chulalongkorn. Horse racing fol-
lowed by golf began in Bangkok over 100 years ago when the
king bestowed land for the first race course. The objective of
His Majesty was to introduce and promote the quality of horse
racing and breeding in Thailand, while providing sporting facil-
ities of international standards for Thailand. Today, horse rac-
ing is one of the most popular sports in the capital and one of
the most famous sport events in the region. Bangkok has host-
ed the Asian Games four times, in 1966, 1970, 1978 and 1998.
Bangkok was also the host of the first SEA Games in 1959 and
Summer Universiade in 2007.
Bangkok's popular modern sports are football, golf, bowling
and horse racing. The city has many famous league football
clubs with a number of international class football stadiums as
well as many golf courses and bowling alleys throughout the
city. The popular traditional sports are Muay Thai. Fights can
be seen in two major boxing stadiums in the city: Rajadamnern
Stadium along with Lumpini Stadium, Takraw, which is played
in open spaces throughout the city, and kite fighting, which is
easy to see in the centre of the old city. Sanam Luang, on the
north side of Wat Phra Kaew, is transformed each year around
February from a sedate little patch of greenery in the midst of
a concrete jungle into an ongoing kite festival as locals come
to the park to practice the art of flying kites.
Rajamangala Stadium is Bangkok's new national stadium. It can
seat more than 65,000.
Bangkok features a number of sports clubs including the Roy-
al Bangkok Sports Club, Royal Turf Club of Bangkok, Krungth-
ep Kreetha Sports Club, Rajapruk Sport Club (North Park), Roy-
al Thai Police Sports Club, Piyarom Sports Club, Southerners

146
 City info
Sports Club and the British Club, which was established in
Bangkok in 1903.
Multicultural Communities
Bangkok has several concentration areas of people of foreign
origin. Yaowarat Road is the home of Bangkok's sizable China-
town, while those of Indian ethnicity have congregated around
Pahurat Road. At the West End of Silom Road was the first Eu-
ropean community in Bangkok called the old Farang Quarter.
The Portuguese Embassy operates from 1820 and was the first
embassy to be established in the capital, with their commu-
nity around the Santa Cruz Church on the Thonburi side. The
Haroon Mosque, a small, attractive stucco building is used by
the local Muslim population. The French Embassy was the sec-
ond to be established in the area within walking distance from
the Assumption cathedral, one of the biggest building in the
area, still serving the community. Along Sukhumvit Road com-
munities of Japanese are around Phrom Phong, Koreatown can
be found around Asok Station and the nearby Nana Station is
dense with Arab and Afican cultures and food, "Little Africa"
neighborhood can be found here.
Urban lifestyle
Although it is one of Asia's most important cities economically,
the urban pace of Bangkok is somewhat relaxed, as the city of-
fers enormous amounts of getaway locations. Most residents
tend to stress over the amount of traffic in the city. Peak hours
are between 6:30 am to 9:30 am and 4:30pm to 8:00 at night on
weekdays, with a general state of traffic on Monday morning
and Friday night.
Current issues
Bangkok traffic
Bangkok has long been notorious for its massive traffic jams,
which are still a serious problem. The recent construction of
the elevated second-level, third-level and fourth-level express-
City info Current issues
ways, many tunnels and flyovers, BTS and MRT systems, four
new SRT lines and BRT Bangkok has eased some of the con-
gestion along specific corridors, but has done little to alleviate
overall congestion. The major reason is the continued popular-
ity of private automobiles, and extensive consumer credit for
automobile purchases.
Environmental issues such as air pollution, a large part of which
is caused by the traffic and dirt left on streets from construc-
tion projects, was a major problem. Industrial pollution has also
contributed to poor air and water quality. Though sulfur diox-
ide and ozone levels have fallen substantially, PM (particulate
matter) still exceeds health standards in some areas. However,
the large volume of trash in the canals must be cleaned out by
other means. Mold growth is ubiquitous in Bangkok, as the wet
tropical climate makes it grow, and many residents simply ig-
nore it.
As in many other Asian cities, the sale of illegally copied copy-
right-protected material, mostly software and DVD movies, is
widespread in Bangkok, but technically illegal.
Another issue which has given the city a reputation is the sex
industry. Prostitution in Thailand is technically illegal, but can
be found all over Bangkok in vast numbers of massage parlors,
saunas, parks, and hourly hotels, serving foreign tourists as well
as locals.
Crime
Foreign residents and tourists alike complain of widespread
scams and blatant price gouging. Elaborate gem store scams,
involving earning the trust of a shopper by a westerner who
is in cooperation with local merchants, have robbed tourists
of thousands of dollars, although overcharging is more of a
common occurrence. Commission-based profiteering is com-
mon for restaurants, hotels, and other kinds of businesses. The
Tourist Police lack police powers and are largely responsible
for writing out reports for insurance companies for victims of
theft. In more serious cases, they will translate reports to be
passed on to the regular police in Bangkok. Also, despite strin-
gent drug laws, the illegal drug trade continues to thrive.
International relations
Bangkok as seat of international and
regional organizations
With its geograpical location at the heart of mainland South-
east Asia and as one of Asia's hubs of transportation, Bangkok
is home to many international and regional organizations, in-
cluding regional headquarters or offices (for Southeast Asia,
Asia-Pacific region, or East Asia) of many organs under the Unit-
ed Nations system and some organization not belonging to the
147
 City info City info International relations

UN. Bangkok is host to 74 foreign embassies and 32 offices of

international organizations

Among others, Bangkok is the seat of the Secretariat of the

UN Economic and Social Commission for Asia and the Pacif-
ic (ESCAP), as well as the Asia-Pacific regional offices of the
Food and Agricultural Organization (FAO), the International
Civil Aviation Organization (ICAO), the International Labour Or-
ganization (ILO), the International Telecommunication Union
(ITU), the UN High Commission for Refugees (UNHCR), the UN
Children's Fund (UNICEF), and the International Committee of
the Red Cross (ICRC).

For the list of offices of the UN agencies in Bangkok, please visit

http://www.un.or.th/unagencies/index.html

Twin towns Sister cities

Bangkok has a number of sister cities. They are:

148
 Events Events Saturday April 26

Events

Events
description
event url www.trvl.es/e/2k1a

Monday April 28
Saturday April 26
place THAiLAND.
174/210 6 . 2 60 2
place THAiLAND. 10150 Tel : 02-416-8153-4,
174/210 6 . 2 60 2 Bangkok
10150 Tel : 02-416-8153-4, start Monday April 28
Bangkok end Sunday April 28
start Saturday April 26 description
end Friday April 26 event url www.trvl.es/e/2k1b

description Aft Asia

event url www.trvl.es/e/2k19
Natural Light Portraiture
place AriyasomVilla. 65 Sukhumvit Soi 1, Bangkok
start Saturday April 26, 10:00h
end Saturday April 26, 16:00h
description Ask most people to show you their favourite
photo, the one they keep in their wallet or frame for
their mantlepiece and its most likely that they will show
a much-loved portrait of their family.Photographs of
our family and friends, of special occasions, birthdays
and weddings are always the most precious. In this
practical class, highly-respected photographer Carolyn
ONeill shares ...
place Bangkok International Trade & Exhibition Centre
(BITEC). 88 Bangna-Trad Road, Bangna, Bangkok
start Monday April 28
end Wednesday April 30
description Aft Asia is a vital event to be held in Bangkok
Thailand for a quality period of three days. This event will
establish itself as the benchmark in the transportation
industry. This show will be scaled up to even greater
heights, offering a better, more rounded experience to
both exhibitors and visitors. It will majorly focus on
providing strong support to the use of alternative fuel
in ...
event url www.trvl.es/e/3pXu

event url www.trvl.es/e/3uNs Thailand Auto Parts & Accessories 2014

webdesign (TAPA 2014)
place Bangkok, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon, Thailand. place Bangkok International Trade & Exhibition Centre
Yotse Hospital, Bangkok (BITEC). 88 Bangna-Trad Road, Bangna, Bangkok
start Saturday April 26, 19:00h start Monday April 28, 10:00h
end Saturday April 26, 22:00h end Monday April 28, 18:00h
description about design description Thailand Auto Parts & Accessories 2014
event url www.trvl.es/e/3uNt (TAPA 2014) is one of ASEANs biggest sourcing hub for
Montien Boonma: "Unbuilt / Rare Works" vehicles, auto parts, spare parts and accessories come
place Jim Thompson Art Center. 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama together to meet buyers from around the globe. With
I Road, Pathumwan, Bangkok, Bangkok world-class standards and quality at reasonable rates,
start Friday April 11 TAPA 2014 is a great vehicle for sourcing automotive
end Thursday July 31 parts and accessories in ASEAN - all under one roof.
event url www.trvl.es/e/3pXv
event url www.trvl.es/e/3lxR

Sunday April 27 Tuesday April 29

place THAiLAND. place THAiLAND.
174/210 6 . 2 60 2 174/210 6 . 2 60 2
10150 Tel : 02-416-8153-4, 10150 Tel : 02-416-8153-4,
Bangkok Bangkok
start Sunday April 27 start Tuesday April 29
end Saturday April 27 end Monday April 29
description

149
 Events Events Tuesday April 29

event url www.trvl.es/e/2k1c

Celebrate Earth Hour 2014 With Us On 29

March At L'Appart
place Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit. 189 Sukhumvit,
Bangkok
start Tuesday April 29, 20:30h
end Tuesday April 29, 21:30h
description On 29th March 2014, our rooftop restaurant
and bar L'Appartwill join millions of people all around the
world who will switch off their lights for one hour from
8:30pm until 9:30pm in a symbolic act of support to show
our care about the amazing planet we are living.If you ...
event url www.trvl.es/e/3AyW

150
 Restaurants Restaurants Top Best Restaurants

Top Italian
Restaurants

Restaurants

Top Best Restaurants enoteca italiana

price $29 - $121
Masala Art Bangkok place sukhumvit soi 27, 10110, Thailand
cuisine Indian OPUS Wine Bar
price $19 - $39 place 64 Pan Road, Silom, 10500, Thailand
The Rain Tree Cafe La Scala
cuisine International, Seafood, Fusion, Soups, Dessert, price $24 - $101
Asian, European, place 13/3 South Sathorn Street | The Sukhothai Hotel,
price $11 - $84 10120, Thailand
place Plaza Athenee Bangkok, A Royal Meridien Hotel Mezzaluna
| 61 Wireless Road (Witthayu), Lumpini, Pathumwan, place The Dome at lebua, 1055 Silom Road | Bangrak,
10330, Thailand Thailand
Tables Restaurant @ Grand Hyatt Erawan Gianni
cuisine European place Thailand
The Reflexions La Bottega di Luca
price $16 - $84 place Sukhumvit 49 Corner 49/1, Thailand
place Plaza Athenee Bangkok, A Royal Meridien Hotel Vicolo 4
| 61 Wireless Road (Witthayu) , Lumpini, Pathumwan, place Silom Soi 4, Thailand
10330, Thailand Antonio's The Italian Experience
La Table de Tee place 26 Sukhumvit Soi 31, Klongtoey-Nua | Wattana,
cuisine Thai 10110, Thailand
Napa on 26 Niu's on Silom Jazz Blues Bar and Restau-
cuisine Californian, European, French
rant
price $21 - $79 place 661 Floor 1-2, Baan Silom Arcade | Silom Road (be-
Red PInn tween Soi 17 and Soi 19), 10500, Thailand
cuisine International, Wine Bar, Latvian, European
Cafe Ice des Arts
price $19 place 70/72 soi Charoen Krung 47/3 | Bangrak, 10500,
OPUS Wine Bar Thailand
cuisine Italian
place 64 Pan Road, Silom, 10500, Thailand
Bistro M Top Asian
Gai & Joel Global Flavors
cuisine International Smooth Curry
cuisine Contemporary, International, Tapas, Thai
price $10 - $66
price $8 - $14
Bed Supperclub place 61 Wireless Road, Lumpini, Pathumwan, Bangkok,
cuisine Contemporary, Fusion, European
10330, Thailand
price $24
4 Garcons The Rain Tree Cafe
cuisine International, Seafood, Fusion, Soups, Dessert,
price $29 - $33
Asian, European,
Soul Food Mahanakorn price $9 - $86
cuisine Thai
place Plaza Athenee Bangkok, A Royal Meridien Hotel
Le Beaulieu | 61 Wireless Road (Witthayu), Lumpini, Pathumwan,
cuisine French
10330, Thailand
price $21 - $99
place Sukhumvit Soi 19, 10011, Thailand Thai Room
cuisine Thai
Eat Me Restaurant price $2 - $11
price $11 - $51
place 103 Sukhumvit 22, 10110, Thailand
place 20 metres off Convent Rd | (in Soi Pipat 2), 10500,
Thailand The Wave
cuisine Thai
place 199/1 Rat Burana, 10140, Thailand
Isao
cuisine Fusion, Japanese

151
 Restaurants Restaurants Top Vegetarian

place Sukumvit 31, Thailand

Thanying Restaurant
cuisine Thai
place Pramuan | Silon, Thailand
Silk Road
cuisine Chinese, Dim Sum, Szechuan
price $11 - $29
place Plaza Athenee Bangkok, A Royal Meridien Hotel
| 61 Wireless Road (Witthayu), Lumpini, Pathumwan,
10330, Thailand
Queen of Curry
cuisine Thai
place 49 Charoenkrung Road | Soi 50 Bongrak, 10500,
Thailand
Breeze Restaurant
cuisine Asian, Seafood, Vegetarian
place The Dome at lebua, 1055 Silom Road | Bangrak,
10500, Thailand
Vertigo Grill and Moon Bar
cuisine Asian, Bar, Diner, Grill, International, Seafood,
Thai
place Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathon Road
Sathon, 10120, Thailand

Top Vegetarian
Breeze Restaurant
place The Dome at lebua, 1055 Silom Road | Bangrak,
10500, Thailand
Na Aroon
place 65 Sukhumvit Soi 1 | AriyasomVilla Hotel, 10110,
Thailand
GAGGAN
price $8 - $101
Govinda

May Kaidee
place 33 Samsen Rd, Thailand
Dosa King
price $7
place 153/7, Sukhumvit Road, Soi-11/1 | Express
entrance from Soi-11 next to 7eleven, 10110, Thailand
Anotai
price $4 - $9
place Thailand
Aryaa's Indian Restaurant
place Sukhmvit Road | 164/1, Corner of Soi 8 (on Main
Road), Klongtoey, 10110, Thailand
Khana Khazana

Monsoon

152
 Useful info Useful info Sunrise/Sunset

Useful info

Useful info

Sunrise/Sunset
Sun will rise at 06:14:56 and will set at 18:29:45 in local time.

Currency
The currency from Thailand is the Baht (THB).
1 THB costs:

Euro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.02 EUR

United States Dollar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.03 USD
Yen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.15 JPY
Pound Sterling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.02 GBP
Czech Koruna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.61 CZK
Danish Krone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.17 DKK
Forint . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.91 HUF
Litas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.08 LTL
New Zloty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.09 PLN
Swedish Krona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 SEK
Swiss Franc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.03 CHF
Norwegian Krone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.18 NOK
Croatian Kuna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.17 HRK
Australian Dollar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.03 AUD
Canadian Dollar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.03 CAD
Yuan Renminbi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.19 CNY
Hong Kong Dollar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.24 HKD
Rupiah . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 349.03 IDR
Republic of Korean Won . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32.88 KRW
Ringgit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.10 MYR
New Zealand Dollar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.04 NZD
Philippines Peso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.38 PHP
Singapore Dollar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.04 SGD
Baht . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.00 THB
Rand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.33 ZAR

Useful phrases
English Thai
Welcome (yin dee dtn rp)
Hello (s-wt-dee)
Hello(on phone) (hanlh)
Good morning / (s-wt-dee krp/k)
Good afternoon / (s-wt-dee krp/k)
Good evening / (s-wt-dee krp/k)
Good night, Night night, Nighty Night, Good night, sleep tight, / (sawt dee krp/k)
hope the bedbugs don't bite!
Goodbye (laa gn n)
How are you? ? (bpen yang rai bang?)
Reply () (s-baai dee krp (k))
What's your name? ? (kun chee rai?)

153
 Useful info Useful info Emergency numbers

English Thai
My name is ... ... (pm chu ...) m (d-chn chu ...) f
Where are you from? ? (kun maa jak tee ni?)
I come from ... ...(pm maa jak ...) m ...(d-chn maa
jak ...) f
Pleased to meet you (yin dee te di ro jk)
Good luck !
Cheers! Bottoms up! Down the hatch! Mud in your eye! ! (chai-yoh)
Bon appetit! Enjoy your meal! (frm) Enjoy! Tuck in! Get stuck in! ! (kr hi j-rern aa-han!)
Eat already! (inf/slang) Happy eating! Get your laughing gear
round this! (inf/slang)
Bon voyage / have a good journey (kr hi dern taang doi s-wt-d-
pap) (dern taang doi s-wt-d-pap)
(teow hi s-nk)
Excuse me (kun krp) - m / (kun k) - f / (kr tht)
Sorry () (pm (chn) se-a jai)
How much is this? / How much does this cost? (raa-kaa to ri?)
Please ... (Kor ...)
Thank you Thank you very much Thank you kindly Thanks a lot (khwp khun) (khwp khun mak)
Many thanks Thanks Cheers Ta (used mainly in northen Eng-
land)
You're welcome Don't mention it My pleasure No problem No (mi bpen rai)
probs Not a problem No worries No big deal
Where's the toilet / lavatory / bathroom / restroom / powder ? (hrng nhm yo te ni?)
room / gents/ladies? Where's the loo / bog / dunny / little boys'/
girls' room? (inf/slang)
Would you like to dance with me? (yhk dtn rum mi?)
I love you (phom rak khun) - m (chan rak khun) - f
I don't understand (mi kho jai)
Please say that again ? (poot sam eek tee si?)
(pot et tee di mi?)
Please speak more slowly ? (poot chaa long noi?)
Can you please write it down? ? (kian long bon gra-daat dai
mai?) (cho-ay ke-un long hi
ny, di m?)
How do you say ... in english? ... (phaasa thai ... pot wh yung-
ngai)
Do you speak english? ? (khun phut phsa thai bpen mi?)
Leave me alone! ! (Y yung kap phom) - male speaking
! (Y yung kap chan! - female speaking
Help! ! (chay day!)
Fire! ! (fai mi!)
Stop! ! (yt!)
Call the police! ! (rak dtam-rat maa!)
Call the police! (re-uk dtum-ro-ut mah)

Emergency numbers
Police: 191
Medical: 1669
Fire: 199

Notes: Bangkok EMS Command Center 1646 (Bangkok only), Tourist Police '1155' (English speaking emergency and routine assistance).

154
 References References

Reasonable care has been taken in creating this personalized travel guide by combining information from the sources identified
References

under the section 'references'. However, the information is provided 'as is' and there is no warranty about the information in the guide
References

being accurate, complete or up to date. To the maximum extent permitted under applicable law, all liability arising from the use of
this guide will be denied. Verifying critical information (like visas, health and safety) before you travel is recommended.

Bangkokdata is from Wikitravel, urls:

http://www.wikitravel.com
This page was last edited at 07:38, on 10 July 2011 by Wikitravel user Sam 22b. Based on work by Jani Patokallio, Shirley Chong and
Neil Dunlop, Wikitravel user(s) Globe-trotter and Zepppep, Anonymous user(s) of Wikitravel and others.

City infodata is from Wikipedia, urls:

http://www.wikipedia.com
Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License; additional terms may apply. See Terms of use for
details. Wikipedia is a registered trademark of the Wikimedia Foundation, Inc., a non-profit organization.

Eventsdata is from Eventful, urls:

www.eventful.com

Weatherdata is from Norwegian Meteorological Institute and the Norwegian Broadcasting Corporation yr.no, urls:
http://www.yr.no/place/Thailand/Bangkok/Bangkok/

Sunsetdata is from Norwegian Meteorological Institute and the Norwegian Broadcasting Corporation yr.no, urls:
http://www.yr.no/place/Thailand/Bangkok/Bangkok/

Currencydata is from Xavier Finance Api, urls:

http://finance.xaviermedia.com/

155
 Notes

156
 Notes

157