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Level 2 of Rope Access

Training Manual
VERSION 1.0 2011

2011 1.0
Written by A-Jay Chen

Course Organized by:

AiRAS
Ascent International Rope Access Services Ltd.

www.apex111.com
rope@apex111.com

:
http://bloguide.ettoday.com/ropeaccess/

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IMPORTANT

NO ONE CAN ACOUIRE GOOD TECHNICAL SKILLS BY


ONLY READING THIS TRAINING MANUAL

PROPER TRAINING IS ALWAYS NECESSARY

ANY ATTEMPT TO UTILIZE THE TECHNIQUES DESCRIBED HEREIN WITHOUT PROPER


TRAINING
PRESENTS SIGNIFICANT RISKS AND DANGERS

TECHNICAL TRAINING IS ESSENTIAL !

: http://bloguide.ettoday.com/ropeaccess/

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1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9. ---
10.
11.

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1.
:
Level 2 of Rope Access Training Course (L2)
:
* (Rope Rescue)
*
*
*
*

( )

)
Level 3 of Rope Access
(Instructor Level)
32
: )

1500
( Level 3 )

Level 2 of Rope Access (Level 2)


32
: )

1500
( Level 3 )

Level 1 of Rope Access (Level 1)


32
: )

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:

(Level 1 Course Contents):


PPE

( )
/
(Double Overhand) ( Double Figure-Eight /DF8)
( Alpine Butterfly/AB) ( Bunny Knot)
( / )
( / )
( / )
( / )
( / )

(Level 2 Course Contents):


PPE
( Y-Hang )

---

(Level 3 Course Contents):


---
PPE

PPE

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2.
Day 1
Introduction
Personal Gear Setup
Revision to L1 Skills
Pick-off Technique
Snatch Rescue Practice
Day 2
Revision
Snatch Rescue Practice
Diagonal Progression Technique
Horizontal Progression Technique
Principle of Pulley Hauling System
Tension Method
Day 3
Revision
Hauling Releasable System Principles Fully & Semi Releasable -
Pulley Hauling System Principles- Direct Hauling Practice -
Day 4
Revision
Rigging for Tension Rope
Pulley Hauling System Principles- Indirect Hauling Practice -
Practice
Day 5
Assessment (4-6 hours)

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3.

IRATA
(
)

(
)
( ) (
32 )

2009 3 ,
18 ( ) 2009 9 32
2010 32

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4. (Rescue)
Rescue) (Snatch Rescue)

(Suspension Trauma)

4a
:

/
4a.1
STOP

4a.2
(Suspension Trauma)

4a.3 /

4b (Suspension Trauma)
(leg loops)

(Suspension Trauma Harness Induced Pathology, Harness


Hang Syndrome, Orthostatic Intolerance)
(Suspension Trauma)

(Suspension Trauma)

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4c W
W
---

Rope

STOP

Foot loop of Harness

Belt of Harness

4d 4P

Person

Partner

Public

Patient

Do not get yourself killed

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P: Person
: SEE Safety & Plan
Safety -
Skill -
E: Equipment -
E: Energy -
Plan

P: Partner

c
P: Public

P: Patient
: START
S: (Suspension Trauma) ( )

T: (Time)
A: (Airway) Up Right )
R: (Rescue) Rescue CPR )
T: (Treatment) Suspension Trauma W

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5. (Snatch Rescue Technique)
5a

( )
(Shunt ASAP)
UP-Right
)
(Shunt ASAP)
D (D-Ring) (Steel
Biner)
Long-Cowstail D (D-Ring)

STOP

D-Ring

5b Pick-Off
Pick-off
Croll / Jumar( )
Pick-off 5-6mm
2.5M (Bowline)
D (D-Ring) (Steel
Biner)
Long-Cowstail D (D-Ring)

Maillon 5-6mm
Jumar Croll
)
Jumar Croll
(Bowline)

Croll Croll Croll

Pick-off

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6. :
(Rigging):
(anchor point)
anchor bolt hanger
( Nuts or Friends )

Y-Hang

ANGLE
Y
90 120
:

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6a (Sling)
(Sling)
(Equalize System)
EN 566/795 MBS( ) 22KN
:

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6b
6b.1 :

: DF8(Double Figure Eight


) AB(Alpine Butterfly ) Bunny Knot (DF8B )
(Sharing System)

DF8 AB Bunny knot

DF8

AB

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6b.2

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1/2

1/3

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7. COD (Change Of Direction)
7a Deviation
Focal Point( ) Focal Point
focal point
focal point
(Deviation)

A0

F T

Load

F = 2 T sin (A0/2)

Life On A Line 2 COD COD


COD 20 COD

COD

Angle A 100 200 300 450 600 900 1200 1800


( )
Force F 17% 33% 50% 75% 100% 142% 175% 200%
% of Load
( )

COD 900 :
0
Sin 45 = 2/2 = 1.414/2 = 0.707
F = 2xTxSin (900/2) = 2xTxSin 450 =2xTx0.707 = 1.42T = 142% T
:

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7b Re-Belay

Mim. 75 cm

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8. (Pulley Hauling Technique)

(Horizontal) (Diagonal) V

8a: Pulley Hauling System

(Pulley) (Karabiner) (Rope Clamp)


(auto-breaking descender) :Simple Hauling(
) Compound Hauling( ) Complex Hauling( )
--Simple Hauling (Sm)
/
--Compound Hauling (Cm)
(Acting On)
--Complex Hauling (Cx)

2:1 3:1
(Idea Mechanical Advantage, IMA ) IMA

Sm2:1 Sm2:1+re-direction Sm3:1 Sm3:1+re-direction

ANCHOR ANCHOR ANCHOR ANCHOR

pull pull pull pull

LOAD LOAD LOAD LOAD

(Fig.1) (Fig.2) (Fig.3) (Fig.4)

50 Fig.1 Fig.4 100 150

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8b: Tension Method for IMA (T-Method)

(Idea Mechanical Advantage, IMA ) :( )

200kg 100kg

A
100kg 100kg

100kg

100kg 100kg 100kg

(Fig.5) (Fig.6) (Fig.7)

20KN
ANCHOR

20 KN
(Fig.8)

20KN

20 KN 20 KN
(Fig.9)
20 KN
20KN

A 40 KN

20 KN

(Fig.10)

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8c: A-Bloc

(pulley) (Karabiner) (rope clamp)


(runback)
A-Bloc A-Bloc
A-Bloc (runback effect)
A-Bloc ( Petzl Traxion )
(auto-breaking descender
Petzl STOP GriGri ID EN341 )
A-Bloc Compression mode( ) Follower mode(
)
B-Bloc
Fig.1~Fig.4
(pulley) (Karabiner) (rope clamp)
(Pulley System Rations)
rope clamp
B-Bloc

Pulley System Ratios

ANCHOR

: A-Bloc

: B-Bloc

: Pulley

LOAD
Sm3:1 system + A-Bloc

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ANCHOR ANCHOR ANCHOR

LOAD LOAD LOAD

Sm3:1 system + A-Bloc Cm9:1 system+A-Bloc Sm5:1 system + A-Bloc


+ Re-direction

ANCHOR ANCHOR ANCHOR

LOAD LOAD LOAD


Sm2:1 system Sm2:1 system+A-Bloc+Re-direction Cm6:1 system+A-Bloc

8d: Semi / Fully Releasable System /


(pulley) (karabiner) (rope clamp) A-Bloc
(lowering) (Semi Releasable)
A-Bloc (runback) A-Bloc
A-Bloc rope clamp cam B-Bloc
A-Bloc rope clam cam B-Bloc rope clam
cam B-Bloc A-Bloc B-Bloc rope clam cam
(lowering)
(Semi Releasable)

(Fully Releasable) (auto-breaking descender)


A-Bloc (lowering) (Fully
Releasable) B-Bloc (auto-breaking
descender) (lowering) A-Bloc
Re-Direction (lowering)

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8e: Direct / Indirect Hauling /
(Direct Hauling)

A-Bloc B-Bloc
Pulley System Ratios ( )
(#1)
A-Bloc B-Bloc (#2) rope clamp (#1)
(#2) A-Bloc 3:1 B-Bloc (#2)
(#1) (#1) A-Bloc (#2)
(#2) 10-15 9mm LSK
Type B (#1) A-Bloc
Type A LSK

ANCHOR ANCHOR ANCHOR


(#2)

(#1)

Rope loaded ( ) (#2) rope Clamp


LOAD

LOAD LOAD LOAD

(#1) A-Bloc (#2) (#2)


Rope Clamp

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8f: Tensioned Rope Rigging
(Tensioned rope) (Fully Releasable) A-Bloc
(Semi Releasable) A-Bloc

(Pulley System Rations) 3:1 160


160 (
160 300% 170 600% 175 1100%)
3:1 160
2007 6:1
( ) ( 12:1
) 160

8g: V-Rig V- :
V-Rig IMA 2:1 6:1

2:1 system
ANCHOR ANCHOR

pulley

LOAD

6:1 system
ANCHOR A-Bloc ANCHOR

B-Bloc
pulley

LOAD
:

1100% 600%( ) 300%( ) 1600-1750 300% 600% 1100%( )

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8h: T-Rig T- :

ANCHOR ANCHOR

LOAD

8i Muscle Vs Pulley

9:1 ?
Hauling Rescue Kit Preparation

50

Hauling Rescue Kit ( ):


A-Bloc x 1 (GriGri or pulley+rope clam)
Pulley x 3 ( )
Rope Clam x 2 ( Petzl Tibloc )
10-15M(9mm) rescue line (LSK only)
Karabiners ( Rope Access )
Slings 120cm x 3

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9. ---
9a
9b

9c
9d
9e LNT
( )
9f
9g

10. ---
: 4-6
100%

:
1. : 20 (80 )
2. : :
) (100 )
( ) (100 )

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19. :
( 1967 ) AiRAS
2010
~
2009
IRATA Level 3 ( ) ( )
Level 3 of Petzl sales team technical training and evaluation course
Petzl
( )
( )

(Outward Bound Taiwan)

2008
IRATA Level 1 ( )

2007
Pisang Peak (6092 )
Rigging for Rescue Seminar of Rescue Safety System in USA (64 hrs)
(64 )
Basic Instructor of RARS Hong Kong
2006
Rope Rescue Skills for Outdoor Leader (TRARA of Hong Kong)

Leave No Trace Master Educator ( LNT )


Level 2 of TRARA
2005
(6962M)
C C
WMA(Wilderness Medical Ass.) WFR(Wilderness First responder)
Level 1 of TRARA
(6962M)
(6194M)
2004
NOLS
1995

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: Ropes

: (kern) (core) (mantle)


(sheath) (kernmantle)

Polymer( ) Nylon( ) Polyester( )


Polypropylene( ) HMPE(High-Modulus Polyethylene :
)

:
Nylon 6 Nylon 6.6 Polyester HMPE
6 6.6
Melting point (oC) 195-230 235-260 230-260 145-170

Moisture retention 4.5% 4.5% 0.4% 0

Strength lose when wet 10%-20% 0 0 0

UV resistance Poor Good Good Good

Elongation at break 20% 20% 13% 3.5%

Floats on water No No No Yes

Abrasion resistance Excellent Excellent Excellent Good

: Life On A Line 2 Chat.8d

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:
EN1891 (Low Stretch Kernmantel Ropes)
EN892 (Dynamic Ropes)
EN1891
EN892

a1: Low Stretch Kernmantel (LSK) EN1891


EN (European Normative Standard)
EN1891 UIAA ( EN1891
UIAA (low-stretch rope) ) NFPA1983
(UIAA & NFPA)

EN1891 :
EN1891:A 10-16mm 100 KG
EN1891:B 80KG

Type A Type B
Type B Type A
11.0mm LSK Type A
Type A B
Static breaking strength 22 KN 18KN
*( 15KN) *( 12KN)
Stretch under 150KG 5% 5%
150
Peak impact force, FF0.3 6KN 6KN
0.3 100 kg 80 kg
Falls held , FF1.0 5 5
100 kg 80 kg
Sheath slippage 30mm 15mm

* (figure-8 knot)
: Life On A Line 2 Chat.3b

NFPA 1983:2006 :
Personal Escape Rope (P) for one person
Minimum breaking Strength 13.5 KN
Permitted diameter 7.5mm to 9mm

Light-use Life Safety Rope (L) for one person


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Minimum breaking Strength 20 KN
Permitted diameter 9.5mm to 12.59mm

General-use Life Safety Rope (G) for two person


Minimum breaking Strength 40 KN
Permitted diameter 13mm to 16mm

EN1891 Type A 5%

( Dynamic Rope)

a2: Dynamic Ropes EN892


(impact force)

(Fall Factor) 0.33 1

(Single rope) (Half rope) (Twin)

1 1/2

UIAA EN892 :
Single Half Twin
Impact Force 12KN 8KN 12KN
80kg at FF 2 55kg at FF 2 80kg at FF 2
Dynamic Elongation 40% 40% 40%
st st st
at 1 fall at 1 fall at 1 fall
Static Elongation 10% 12% 10%
80kg mass 55kg mass 80kg mass
Number of Fall 5 5 12
80kg at FF 2 55kg at FF 2 80kg at FF 2
BEAL

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a3: Marking
EN1891 or
EN892(single/half/twin) CE xxxx or UIAA

type A B

a4: Transport and Storage


100M

Alpine Coil

Edelweiss Eldrid
Alpine Coil

(cool dark) (dry condition)

a5: Washing and Drying

BEAL

30oC
200M
BEAL (Rope Brush)

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:

Polyamide Polyester Polypropylene HMPE


(Nylon)
Acetic Acid 10% in water L N N N
10%
Ammonia 10% in Water L C N N
10%
Aviation Fuel N N L N

Blood L L L N

Brine (sea water) N N N N


/
Carbon dioxide gas L N N N

Chlorine gas D L D C

Chlorinated water N N N C
( )
DEET N N N N

Hydrochloric acid 10% C L N N


10%
Motor oil N N L N

Petroleum fuel N N L N

Sulphuric acid 10% C L N N


10%
Turpentine N N C N

Urine N N N N

White Spirit N N C N

: N=no effect( ) L=limited effect( ) C=considerable damage( )


D=dissolve( )
12
: Life On A Line 2 Chat.8e & British Standard BS8437

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a6: Lifetime

? ? ?
? ?

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