what is corrosion?

Corrosion of a steel tank or copper pipe is an electrical and chemical deterioration of the metal. It
is sometimes called "electrolysis." It causes pits which leads to holes in one place but not in
another. The electrical component of corrosion involves the movement of electrons across a
metal surface like electricity flowing on a copper wire. Because of this, the corrosion rate can be
measured in milliamps and is affected by resistance and voltage differences.
Electricity flows from a high voltage potential to a lower voltage potential much like water flows
from a high elevation to a lower elevation. Electricity, like water, is affected by resistance and
pressure.
All metals ha

ve energy stored within them relative to the amount of energy it took to create them from
ore. Magnesium has the most energy stored within it. Zinc and aluminum have slightly less
energy followed by steel then cast iron. lead, brass and copper have lower energy which
causes them to be only mildly affected by the corrosion process. Carbon, a metal, and gold
have the lowest energy levels of all the above metals. They all have a unique voltage that can
be measured.
If two different metals are placed in a substance such as water or soil that conducts electricity and
connected together, you can measure an electric current that will flow from the metal with the
most stored energy to the metal with the least stored energy. This is how batteries work. The
illustration at right illustrates corrosion in a battery. The chemical component of corrosion involves
the combination of water ions, oxygen and other negatively charged ions with positively charged
iron to form iron oxide which we call rust. Dissolved salt and other minerals in water accelerate
the rate of corrosion.
When a tank corrodes, the iron atoms break away from the steel surface. Over time, this leaves
pits in the steel which eventually become holes. Corrosion occurs at an anode. Therefore, pits
occur at anodic spots on the surface. Protection occurs at a cathode. Therefore, the unpitted
areas are cathodic spots.
 what makes soil corrosive?
Soil contains water and dissolved minerals responsible for damaging an underground tank. All
soil contains water. Even desert sand contains underground moisture.
Let's assume that you are responsible for deciding whether or not corrosion will affect a new tank
to be installed at a new home in the desert. First, lets begin with the questions:
Will it ever rain or snow there? Will the new owner ever plant grass, flowers, shrubs or trees over
or near the tank? Will ground moisture condense on the outside surface of the tank? Will water
condense out of thin air on the surface of a cold container? Will the grass, flowers or shrubs over
the tank be fertilized? Will the tank ever be near a sidewalk or down gradient from a
driveway? Will the owner ever throw salt or calcium chloride on the pavement to melt snow and
ice? Will magnesium chloride ever be used to control road dust nearby? Will the tank ever be
located near or downhill from livestock where salt and urea from animal waste will leach into the
earth? Does the irrigation water contain salt or alkali salts? If a tank is set in a hole blasted from
solid rock, does the rock contain pyrites, graphite or acidic rocks that will be fractured and
exposed to the oxidizing effect of air and water?

Pyrite (iron sulfide) exists in black shale, coal, limestone, metamorphic rocks, in mining
districts and in oxygen deficient mud. It oxidizes into iron oxide which appears as rust
staining and a mild sulfuric acid. Graphite (carbon) is corrosive to iron as previously
mentioned. It is found in metamorphic rocks of New England.
If the tank is backfilled with sand or gravel from a sand and gravel company, will the sand contain
minerals mined from river deposits not representative of the site in which the tank is buried? Will
the tank be downhill from a septic tank leach field? Whatever flows into the septic tank will be
deposited in the ground below the drain field. Will the soil contain gypsum? Anaerobic bacteria
eat gypsum (calcium sulfate) and produce sulfide wastes that in turn becomes sulfuric acid. Will
the tank be set in shale or clay? Will groundwater be present? Will the tank be set on
undisturbed earth and backfilled with loose backfill?

Due to the difference in the oxygen content of the soil around the tank compared to the less
oxygen in the undisturbed earth under the tank, corrosive conditions will exist under the tank. If
any of the answers to the above questions are "yes" then the tank will be corroded.
 what is cathodic protection?
Cathodic protection is a procedure used to protect an object from corrosion by making it a
cathode. To make a tank a cathode, you have to attach an anode to it. Both have to be in an
electrolyte such as earth or water. To protect a propane tank, you would attach an anode
consisting of a 17 pound bar of magnesium metal packed inside a cloth bag containing 28
pounds of conductive earth backfill with a wire that is attached to the magnesium and to the
tank. The magnesium metal is a source of electrons for the iron atoms and it is from where d.c.
current originates. As long as enough electrons flow from the magnesiu
m through the wire and the connections to the tank, the tank will not corrode. At the same
time, a small amount of direct current flows from the magnesium metal, through the earth to
the tank. The current is less than one amp.

Steel has an average voltage of about -0.50 volts referenced to a copper sulfate electrode.
Magnesium has a voltage of -1.75 volts. By connecting the two metals together, an average
voltage is created. If the combined voltage is -0.85 volts or greater, the tank will be protected. If
the voltage is below -0.85 volts, partial but not complete protection will exist.

To illustrate what was said above, assume that a new tank is installed and protected with
magnesium anodes. As long as a combined voltage of at least -0.85 volts can be measured all
around the tank, it meets the criteria for corrosion protection. If anodes are attached to an old
pitted tank, and the voltage shifted from -0.50 volts to at least -0.85 volts, the pits should not
become any deeper and the tank would be protected from further corrosion. Therefore, if
corrosion has damaged a tank but not caused it to leak, cathodic protection can be installed
and the tank does not have to be replaced.

This also applies to buried piping. Because the voltage of underground structures cannot be
measured with absolute accuracy over 100% of the surface area, generalizations are made. It is
not possible for corrosion engineers to guarantee complete protection over every square inch of
the tank's surface area.
 all about magnesium anodes
Magnesium anodes come in all shapes and sizes. The magnesium in a packaged anode weighs
from 1 pound to 50 pounds. The most commonly used anode in the United States is a 17 pound
anode. With 28 pounds of powdered backfill packed around the magnesium, a packaged 17
pound anode weighs about 45 pounds. It comes with 10 feet or 15 feet of #12, insulated solid
copper wire. The backfill consists of 75% powdered gypsum, 20% powdered bentonite clay and 5%
sodium sulfate. This mixture is a low cost, nonhazardous, electrically conductive earth backfill. A
cotton bag holds the backfill around the inner metal bar. It decomposes over time in the ground.
The anode is shipped in an outer disposable, plastic or paper bag to protect it from rain or snow.
It is recommended that 5 gallons of water be poured on the anode after it is placed in the earth to
wet the backfill. This lowers the resistance between the magnesium and the earth causing more
electric current to flow. This provides more protective current than would be possible in dry soil.

Tests on underground propane

tanks have shown that smaller
anodes can be effective at
controlling corrosion on a well
coated tank. Small anodes are
used when the surface area or
object to be protected is small.

They cost less than a larger

anode, but cost the same as a
large anode to install. However,
it is important to remember that
the life of a small anode is
shorter than for a larger one. One of the more common questions asked is, "How long will an
anode last?" Design engineers prefer to use larger anodes because they last longer.

A 17 pound magnesium anode can produce 1 amp of d.c. current for 1 year; therefore, if it
produced 1/10 amp, it would last 10 years compared to 3-1/2 years for a 5 pound anode. A 17
pound anode placed in 1,000 ohm-cm clay would generate 170 M.A. of current and would last
only 6 years. If the clay's resistivity is 2,000 ohm-cm, it would last 11 years. In 10,000 ohm-cm dry
sand, it would last 52 years. A normal current output is under 100 M.A. However, this engineer
has seen the natural current output of a magnesium anode reach 200 milliamps (M.A.) in wet,
alkali rich clay. The current output is dependent on the resistivity of the soil or backfill in which the
tank is installed. Clay or highly mineralized earth is very corrosive and has a low soil resistivity
value of 1,000 to 2,000 ohm-cm. Conversely, dry sand is not corrosive and would have a soil
resistivity value over 10,000 ohm-cm. In order to calculate an anode life, one has to measure the
soil resistivity, know the weight of the anode, know the alloy composition of the magnesium and
factor in the loss of magnesium due to self corrosion. Finally, when an anode is 85% consumed, it
becomes too small to be effective. Because soil conditions change with time, one can hope for
the best but should plan for the worst.

Magnesium anodes come in two alloys. H-1 or AZ-63 is 90% magnesium, 6% aluminum and 3%
zinc. The zinc and aluminum lowers the cost of the anode but it also lowers the driving potential
to about -1.55 volts referenced to a copper sulfate electrode. It will perform well in corrosive soil if
the tank is well coated and will last longer than the high potential alloy. The other alloy is 99%
pure magnesium. It is called a "high potential" anode as its open circuit potential is as high as -
1.80 volts. It works better than the H-1 alloy anode in dry or resistant earth or where more current
is needed because of a poorly coated tank. The higher potential forces more current to flow than
would from an H-1 alloy anode. It costs more per pound but in many cases it is worth the extra
cost.
 a word about coatings
All steel objects are painted to keep them from rusting. The paint is a waterproof barrier between
the steel surface and moisture in the air. Similarly, underground tanks need a waterproof coating
to protect them from corrosive groundwater. Ordinary paint coatings do not hold up under
constant contact with mineralized moisture in the earth. Specialized coatings are needed to
withstand the corrosive environment underground and provide a barrier between the steel surface
and air, water and even electricity without deteriorating over time.

The first line of defense against corrosion on an underground tank is a good coating. Paint and
coating companies make a variety of coatings for a vast array of applications. It is important
to apply those that will hold up over time to constant attack by water, oxygen, carbon dioxide,
mild acids, mechanical abrasion from rocks, earth movements, roots, bacteria and other
biological organisms as they feed on organic compounds in them. They must be applied
correctly or they will not adhere to the steel surface. The tank manufacturer often applies a
tough, chemical and water resistant coating at the factory. Factory applied coatings include
baked on powder paint, sprayed on chemically cured epoxy resins, electrostatically applied
fusion bond epoxy and sprayed on coal tar or petroleum based enamel. Field applied coatings
are usually brush applied enamels, mastics, polyurethane, reinforced plastics or epoxies. If
you have an underground tank or are planning to install one and can scratch off the coating
with a pocket knife, it will not prevent corrosion underground. You should apply a second
coating made for underwater or underground use. If you are located far from a large
metropolitan area and do not have the luxury of applying one of the above, you may find one
made to resist water in stock at a local boating supply store.

Coatings alone, will not protect a buried tank against corrosion. They are scratched, scraped and
gouged during handling, setting, backfilling and settling. They can have small imperfections or
missed spots here and there. Some deteriorate underground. Corrosion pitting rates are greater
at these flaws, scratches and gaps in the coating than they are on completely bare tanks.
Cathodic protection with anodes is needed to protect the steel wherever it is exposed.
 what is dielectric strength and
electrical isolation?
Recall that corrosion is an electrical release of energy in the form of electrons and d.c. current
from a metal surface when it is in contact with soil. If an insulating barrier can be applied to block
the flow of electrons along a metal surface, then the corrosion process can be stopped. It acts as
a resistor to reduce the flow of electric current from a metal surface to the earth. This property of
a material being a barrier to the flow of electrons along a metal surface or electric current from the
surface into the earth is called its "dielectric strength."

All metals have a unique voltage stored within them that is related to the amount of energy used
to create them. When two different metals such as copper and steel are connected together in the
earth, the voltage difference between them will cause an electric current to flow through the earth
from the metal with the higher voltage to the metal with a lower voltage. At the same time
electrons flow on the metal from the steel to the copper. This is called a "bimetallic or dissimilar
metal corrosion cell."

In order to prevent copper piping from corroding steel pipe or tanks, dielectric unions are inserted
between them to separate and to electrically isolate the copper pipe from the steel pipe or tank.
Dielectric unions are the perfect solution for breaking the connection between the two metals.
Underground steel propane tanks and steel piping must be electrically isolated from the buried
copper water piping to the water heater and the copper electric grounds at homes and
businesses. Unions are easily installed at the connection between a copper pipe and a steel pipe
and near a regulator or gas meter.
 how to install an anode
One of the most often asked questions is "How do you install an anode?" To many, this is the
most important section in this booklet. If an anode is not installed correctly, it will not work. As an
engineer,a contractor, an anode supplier and as a service provider, I would recommend the
following procedure if the anode is attached on-site:

I would install one 17 pound magnesium anode on a 500 gallon tank and two on a 1,000 gallon
tank. Remove the outer paper or plastic bag and bury the anode at the end of the excavation
where the earth is the wettest and the most conductive to the anode current. If water is available,
pour 5 gallons on it to "jump start" the flow of current. Otherwise, the dry backfill will have to
absorb moisture from the soil before current will flow. Roll out the anode wire to either the flat
plate or angle iron fitting on top of the tank or to the lifting ear. Wrap the wire around the fitting or
ear so that the connection can not be pulled off should someone trip on the wire. Leave slack in
the wire so that it is not pulled apart when the excavation is backfilled. I recommend attaching the
wire to the tank using a thermite weld. Thermite welds are stronger than a mechanical connection
such as a nut and bolt. Whether you use a nut and bolt or a thermite weld, remove 1" of insulation
on the copper wire and file off any paint or coating at the connection so that the metal wire is
making metal contact to the tank for the weld or connection. A copper sleeve should be slipped
onto the wire and crimped down with a pair of pliers when using a thermite weld because the heat
from the weld metal is hot enough to melt the #12 copper wire in two or hot enough to make it
brittle and more susceptible to breaking. To make the connection, you need a hand-held welder
consisting of a graphite mold attached to a handle that sets down on the wire and tank. A flint
striker gun must be used to ignite the starting powder which in turn, ignites the copper oxide
flakes of the weld powder. Both burn in a flash within the graphite mold releasing heat and smoke
for a few seconds. Certainly you would need to use a pair of leather gloves and eye protection
when making the connection.

It is customary to tap the mold with the striker gun to loosen the red hot copper weld before
removing it. With a pair of pliers, break off the dark colored slag on top of the copper weld.
Let the wire cool slightly before checking the connection. A good weld cannot be pried or
knocked off the steel. The connection needs to be waterproofed with a coating that will resist
deterioration in the earth. I recommend using coal tar mastic from a gallon can or it can be
taped. You can apply the coating used to coat the tank.

Precautions
The welds are very difficult to make when it is rainy, windy or when the steel surface is wet. Also,
on occasion, someone loses or forgets the flint gun or weld metal capsules. Because weather
and help are unpredictable, you might want to attach the anode to the tank before taking it to the
job site. If the lack of manpower prevents you from moving a tank and an anode at the same time,
you can attach a 12" long piece of the wire to the tank as described above before transporting it
to the job site. You can then connect the anode wire to the 12" wire with a copper sleeve or
crimpit after the tank has been set.
If the starting powder gets wet, it will not light. You cannot light it with a match or even a propane
torch. You can save small amounts of starting powder for when it is needed. Sprinkle some of the
saved starting powder on top of the damp powder and it will usually light. In time, the flint in the
flint gun will wear down and will need to be replaced. Replacement flints are sold with tobacco
products in stores.
While the weld will not ignite the propane in the tank, it could ignite propane in sufficient
concentration in the excavation around the tank. Propane is heavier than air and will collect at
your feet. If you smell propane, do not make the connection with the weld.
If the lead wires are long enough, both can be attached on the same angle iron plate on top of the
tank using one weld. Two #12 wires will fit into the groove under the mold and two wires usually
absorbs the heat of the molten copper without overheating the wire thus eliminating the need for
a copper sleeve.
Finally, small tin colored metal discs come with
the weld metal capsules. The discs are used to
hold the powder in the mold prior to ignition. The
disc melts during the exothermic reaction. It is
placed into the mold with its cupped side up. If
you happen to run out or lose your last disc prior
to your last weld, you can use about any material
to hold the powder in the mold. Examples would
include gum wrapper foil, aluminum foil, paper
and even a leaf. Remember that after making a
weld, the mold is very hot. Do not set it on or next
to any flammable materials.
If, for any reason, you would like to disconnect the
anode from the tank after it has been buried, the
anode wires will need to be looped through the dome. This provides a place where one can cut
the wires, if desired. This will be explained in more detail in the last section under "Testing for
Corrosion Protection.

Recommendations
As mentioned earlier, I recommend
installing two 17 pound magnesium
anodes on a 1,000 gallon tank. The
reason I recommend two is to ensure
that enough cathodic protection current
is available for many years. We do not
know:
1) how effective the coating has been
or will be over the years.
2) if the anodes have or are being
installed as described in this booklet.
3) if each connection or weld is made correctly.
4) how much experience the tank installer has with cathodic protection systems.
5) what changes will occur to the soil to make it more corrosive.
6) if the tank is connected to a metal service line that should be protected along with the tank.
7) if a dielectric union isolates the underground metal piping from the plumbing and electric
utilities in the house.
We would rather have too much protection than to have too little protection. I would rather pay for
an extra anode than to risk having a leak in 10 years.
 testing for corrosion protection
So, how do you know if your tank is protected? It only takes a minute to check. As stated in the
section on cathodic protection, if the voltage of steel is -0.85 volts or greater, it is protected. It
takes a voltmeter and a copper sulfate electrode to take the reading. It can be taken by a propane
gas supplier technician with a basic understanding of cathodic protection. If the reading is greater
than -0.85 volts, you can assume that the tank is protected at the location where the reading was
taken on the date it was taken. If the reading is below -0.85 volts, the anode installed on the tank
either has been consumed, or the tank is connected to the house utilities without a dielectric
union or the wire has been disconnected. Occasionally, there is a problem with the testing
equipment or contact to the tank. It takes practice and experience to find the answer to these
problems. There are other causes for a low reading which might require a cathodic protection
technician or a corrosion engineer to determine.

Contact to the tank can be made on any metal connected to the tank. This includes the gauging
device, the regulator, the pressure relief valve or the fittings. The dome would not be a good
contact point as it does not make good metal contact with the tank.

Some tank installers are able to route the anode wire into the dome or even attach a separate
test lead wire from the tank and run it into the dome. Contact can be made on either of these
wires. I would recommend taking at least four readings around the tank.

As a homeowner, I would like to see:

1) a copy of the readings with a written report showing when and how the readings were taken.
2) a drawing to accompany the report.
3) the qualifications of the person who tested my tank.
4) this done once a year.