MIDDLE EAST TECHNICAL UNIVERSITY

CIVIL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT

CE491 Coastal Engineering I
Laboratory II: Orbital Motion

Course Code : 5620491

Course Section : 1

Name Surname and Student Number

Furkan MLAYM, 2026276

Anl YILMAZ, 2026763

Abdrakhman MURAT, 2000958

smet Yasin KO, 1932458

Mustafa Kemal BEKTA, 2025716

Date of Submission : 21.11.2017

OBJECT
The main object of this experiment is to observe and study the orbital motion of particles at the water
surface and the bottom.
PRELIMINARY REMARKS
Wave creates the orbital motion of water particles. Under a wave crest, the water moves up and
forward; under the troughs, it moves down and back; thus, on the whole, water particles do not go
anywhere at all as the wave passes, but move in circles.
Water particles in a wave over deep water move are in an almost closed circular path, and at the
bottom no movement due to wave is observed.
In shallow water, where depth is less than one-half of the wavelength, orbits are progressively
flattened with depth, and forms ellipse. Water at the sea bed cannot move in a circular path and can
only move back and forth.

Figure 1: Orbital motion of particles

INSTRUMENTS
- Wave flume - Stop watch
- Wave generator - Particles of submerged (heavy) material
- Ruler - Particles of floating (light material)
PROCEDURE
- Fill the flume with water to a suitable height.
- Measure the water depth
- Start the wave generator
- Measure the wave period
- Observe the motion of the floating material on the water surface
- Observe the motion of the submerged particle at the flume bed
- Measure the maximum horizontal displacement ((2A) b measured) of the particle at the flume bed) to
compare with the corresponding theoretical displacement ((2A) b measured)
- Stop the generator
MEASUREMENTS

Table 1: Measurements

Water depth 37.5 cm

Wave height 4 cm
Time of wave passing 2 meters 1.8 s
Period 8/10 s
(2A)b measured 0.8 cm

8 2
= = 0.8 = = 1.11 /
10 1.8

= = 1.11 0.8 = 0.888

2 2
= = = 7.072
0.888
4
= = = 2
2 2
1 1
= = 0.02 = 7.541 103
7.072 0.375
A = 0.754 cm

(2A)b theoretical = 1.508 cm

(2A)b theoretical (2A)b measured 1.508 0.8

100% = 100% = 46.94%
(2A)b theoretical 1.508
CONCLUSION
In the this experiment the motion of water particles due to wave were observed. Waves were
generated in the calm water to see the movement of submerged material at the bottom, and compare
it with the theoretical values. With the given instruments the period, celerity, depth of water and
displacements of submerged material were measured. Furthermore, the theoretical values are
calculated. Both theoretical and real observations of vertical movements at the flume bed of circular
motions were zero (B=0). However, the lateral displacements of particles at the bottom came not to
be equal showing (2A)b measured = 0.8 cm and (2A)b theoretical = 1.508 cm.

DISCUSSIONS
As it could be seen after calculations, the difference between theoretical and laboratory values are
significant. Many factors may have influenced to this. Firstly, due to quick movement of the particle
the real displacements could be missed. Secondly, the materials behavior under water, having
difficulty to move freely, could be the obstacle.