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LONDON CITY GUIDE

SEPTEMBER 2017 WWW.WHERETRAVELER.COM

STRIKE A POSE
London Fashion Week
struts into town
FOOD FOR
THOUGHT
WELCOME
TO THE WORLDS GREATEST RIVER
Meet the chefs Enjoy the festivals that are making waves,
reinventing
our cuisine from Totally Thames to The Great River Race
+ boats, bars and bridges

GERALD
SCARFE
PLUS ON DRAWING
LONDONS
DESIGN FESTIVALS FAMOUS
TRAVEL ACCESSORIES FACES

ULTIMATE JAZZ CLUBS

C U LT U R E E N T E R TA I N M E N T SHOPPING DINING MAPS

L SE 2017 COVER.indd 1 17/0 /2017 1 :20


WL LION KING.indd 1 11/08/2017 13:44
Contents
LONDON CITY GUIDE
RECOMMENDED BY

YOUR CONCIERGE
Where London has SEPTEMBER 2017 WWW.WHERETRAVELER.COM

direct access to the


STRIKE A POSE
London Fashion Week
struts into town
FOOD FOR
THOUGHT
WELCOME
TO THE WORLDS GREATEST RIVER
Meet the chefs Enjoy the festivals that are making waves,
reinventing

head concierges and


our cuisine from Totally Thames to The Great River Race
+ boats, bars and bridges

their teams across ON THE COVER


Londons four and Enjoy the beauty
five-star hotels, and of the River
Thames. Cover
September
is considered to be PLUS
DESIGN FESTIVALS
GERALD
SCARFE
ON DRAWING
LONDONS
FAMOUS

See more of London at www.wheretraveler.com/london


FACES

image iStock
TRAVEL ACCESSORIES

the concierges bible.


ULTIMATE JAZZ CLUBS

C U LT U R E E N T E R TA I N M E N T SHOPPING DINING MAPS

L SE 2017 COVER.indd 1 17/0 /2017 1 :20

The Guide
54
ASK YOUR CONCIERGE 20 SIGHTSEEING
EDo, es M. Firteri Unlock the capital
mmorum condendicam during the Open
consulinum ate faucien 44 House London festival,
ateriterest peribem
nonsultorei crit, unte res
where buildings such
factors ulemus, ur loc, as The Gherkin are
mum ac ore ex open to the public.
molturnum in ver ad
36 MUSEUMS
& GALLERIES
Design festivals are
taking over the city,
with pop-up artworks
and large-scale
installations.

62 44 ENTERTAINMENT
The award-winning
team Les Enfants
Terribles brings The
Terrible Infants to
Wiltons Music Hall.
Plus, where you
can see stars, from
Juliet Stevenson to
Stockard Channing.
54 SHOPPING
Discover how you can
LONDON FASHION WEEKEND COURTESY OF LONDON FASHION WEEKEND; PAUL MCCARTNEY GERALD SCARFE; THE TERRIBLE INFANTS

enjoy all the glamour


72 of London Fashion
Week at festivals across
Carnaby Street, Regent
COURTESY OF THE TERRIBLE INFANTS; AFTERNOON TEA COURTESY OF AQUAVIT; MUSICIAN COURTESY OF THE JAZZ CAF

Street and more.


62 DINING
We celebrate British
chefs who are

Best of the month Paul McCartney to Margaret Thatcher, ahead of


transforming our
national cuisine, and
take a look at quirky
a major exhibition at the House of Illustration.
6 WHERE NOW afternoon teas.
This months biggest festivals and events,
from the BBC Proms to the NFL Games. 18 FROM LONDON WITH LOVE 72 NIGHTLIFE
Passport holders, carry-on bags and more Enjoy a night of live
take your pick from these travel essentials. jazz music at these
10 TAKE ME TO THE RIVER
world-famous venues,
Find out how you can make a splash 14 from Ronnie Scotts
on the River Thames. 82 MY PERFECT DAY
to the Savoy.
Killian Donnelly, star of Les Misrables,
14 PUSHING BOUNDARIES shares his top London spots, from where 76 WELLBEING
Iconic cartoonist Gerald Scarfe looks back over his he dines with singer Nick Jonas to Indulge in these spa
star-studded career capturing famous faces, from where he enjoys the perfect Guinness. treatments that are
designed especially
for business travellers.

PLAN
LONDON
|
CHINESE EDITION | SPRING 2017
TA L K I N G T O T H E W O R L D S V I S I T O R S 78 ESSENTIALS
We are the worlds largest publisher of maps
2016-2017

In this city, we also produce IN London a portfolio


IN LONDON CHINESE EDITION | |

LONDRES
PLAN DE
London concierges
of luxury magazines in Arabic, Chinese and English
and magazines for visitors. Today, Where can
SPRING 2017

DITION
FRANAIS
E

and London Planner, the official monthly guide share their travel tips,
be found on hotel concierges desks in more to the capital from VisitBritain and the Mayors hidden gems and
| | | |
|
than 80 destinations around the globe. promotional company, London & Partners. strangest requests.
COVER IL CHINESE 1.indd 3

09/01/2017 12:39

80 MAPS
Download past and present issues from across the Where Network via Magzters app.
FRENCHMAPCOVER 2016.indd 1
20/06/2016 15:07

A useful map of
Go to the app store. central London.

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Where London 2-3pg 25-7-17_Layout 1 26/07/2017 11:46 Page 1

IN OVER 80 CITIES: INFLUENCING AND INSPIRING VISITORS SINCE 1936

The Original Hop-on Hop-Off


Tour of London! where
Published in association with
M A G A Z I N E

Officially endorsed by the Society of the Golden


Keys of GB and the Commonwealth

EDITORIAL
GROUP EDITOR Kohinoor Sahota
GROUP DEPUTY EDITOR Sarah Riches
SUB EDITOR Anna Frame
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Emma Levine
GROUP ART DIRECTOR Tim Benton
SENIOR DESIGNER Grant Pearce
GRAPHIC DESIGNER Margaux Carpier
PICTURE EDITOR Tamsan Barratt
PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Stewart Dymock
CONTENT DIRECTOR Chris Johnson

ADVERTISING & BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT


SALES DIRECTOR TOURISM Rob Way
SALES DIRECTOR CONSUMER Gemma Ryder
SALES DEVELOPMENT MANAGERS
Emma Gosling, Charlotte Johnson-Last
HOTEL & CONCIERGE SERVICES DIRECTOR
Sam Johnson
SALES AND MARKETING COORDINATOR
Ana Martinez
SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGERS
Elisabeth Askew, Dominique Marchi
PRODUCTION
PRODUCTION & DISTRIBUTION DIRECTOR
Mel Needham
SENIOR PRODUCTION ASSISTANT & RETOUCHER
David Weeks
PRODUCTION ASSISTANT David Pollard
SENIOR MARKETING, DISTRIBUTION & PRODUCTION
COORDINATOR Graham Randell

MVP I OPERATIONS
OPERATIONS DIRECTOR Bridget Mastino
OFFICE COORDINATOR Ewa Laskowska
OPERATIONS ASSISTANT Vinetta Swan
EMAIL FOR ALL OF THE ABOVE FIRSTNAME.LASTNAMEMORRISEUROPE.COM

MVP I EXECUTIVE
PRESIDENT Donna W Kessler
MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning
MVP I CREATIVE
CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson
DESIGN DIRECTOR Jane Frey
CREATIVE COORDINATOR Beverly Mandelblatt
Published by the Visitor Publications division of
Morris Communications Company, LLC. 725 Broad St,
Augusta, GA 30901
MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS
CHAIRMAN William S Morris III
PRESIDENT & CEO William S Morris IV
WHERE LONDON
2nd Floor, Samuel House,
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London SW1Y 4SQ
Contact: Where Magazine Subscriptions. T: 020-7611 7882. Email: subscriptions@
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arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part
strictly prohibited. Where is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications. In
London, Where Magazine is pleased to be a member of The Society of the Golden
Keys and London & Partners/Published by Morris Visitor Publications, a subsidiary of
Morris Communications Company, LCC, 727 Broad St, Augusta, GA 20901.

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Vol. No. 43 Issue No. 9 ISSN 0951 323X


YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936

4 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017

WL SEPT MASTHEAD.indd 4 17/08/2017 10:11


WELCOME
Editors
Letter

Making waves
Few cities make the most of their river. For
London, however, the Thames has been a
symbol of the city, from acting as a trading
route for the British Empire, to a stage for
a boat pageant for the Queens Diamond
Jubilee. Get swept away by the magic during
festivals including Totally Thames (p. 10).
I am so excited to share our interview with
Gerald Scarfe! Have you ever been such
a big fan of someone that you wanted to turn
up outside their house? Well, thats what our
journalist Emma did when she was a student
three decades ago. The cartoonist behind
Pink Floyds The Wall and Disneys Hercules
talks to us about what its like to draw British
celebrities and politicians (p. 14).
If you love design, youre here at a great time:
whether its style at London Fashion Week
(p. 54), architecture at Open House London
(p. 20) or art at the London Design Festival
(p. 36), theres something for everyone.
We held our first Nominees Celebrations
A T T H E I N T E R C O N T I N E N T A L
(below), which were part of this years MVP
Golden Keys Concierge of the Year Awards.
We raised a glass to the concierges who are WEEKEND BRUNCH
up for gongs at this years awards. Follow our
social media for competitions and travel ideas. Theo Randall at the InterContinental has launched a new
La Dolce Vita weekend brunch menu. Featuring a selection of
brunch classics with an authentic Italian twist complemented by
bottomless prosecco and bellinis.

KOHINOOR SAHOTA To start, indulge in a variety of antipasti dishes from a selection


Group Editor of Italian salads, cured meats and cheeses. Primi and secondi
Where London
dishes include Theos well-loved classics such as handmade
Twitter: @WhereLondon pasta stuffed with slow cooked veal and pancetta with porcini
Facebook: Where London
Instagram: wherelondon mushrooms and parmesan. To finish, a selection of desserts will
be served to share, including his signature Amalfi lemon tart.

Saturday Brunch | 57 per person


Three courses and bottomless prosecco & bellinis

Sunday Brunch | 45 per person


Four courses. Supplementary drinks packages available

For reservations, call 020 7318 8747 or visit www.theorandall.com

Theo Randall at the InterContinental


One Hamilton Place, Park Lane London, W1J 7QY
Want to be in the magazine? Share your
London trip with us on social media

w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 5

WL SEPT MASTHEAD.indd 5 18/08/2017 15:31


As autumn begins, take your pick


from festivals galore! NFL touch down
in London, the Great Gorilla Run races
through town and Meatopia
raises the steaks

BERMONDSEY NFL LONDON GAMES


STREET AT WEMBLEY STADIUM
FESTIVAL FROM SUN 24 SEP
SAT 16 SEP Since American football sprung on
Experience a village to the London sporting stage in 2007,
fte in the heart of the the annual NFL (National Football
capital at Bermondsey League) matches, held at Wembley
Street Festival. As well Stadium and Twickenham, have gone
as food and craft stalls from strength to strength. London
and live jazz, there is welcomes gridiron teams from over
an outdoor dance floor, the pond to play four games.
Maypole dancing The Baltimore Ravens make their
and a dog show. debut in the city, while other matches
www.bermondsey include New Orleans Saints taking
streetfestival.org.uk on the Miami Dolphins.
www.wembleystadium.com

6 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017

WL SEPT WHERE NOW.indd 6 17/08/2017 10:25


LAST NIGHT
OF THE PROMS
TO SAT 9 SEP
See off this years Proms programme in
style at Last Night of the Proms (9 Sep),
starring the soprano Nina Stemme,
among others. You can also attend Proms
in the Park on the same night in Hyde
Park, starring Ray Davies, Bryn Terfel and
Elaine Page. Beforehand, there are still
plenty of events, such as Jools Holland
and his bands tribute to Stax Records
(1 Sep) with songs by Otis Redding and
Isaac Hayes. www.royalalberthall.com

THE GREAT
GORILLA RUN
SAT 16 SEP

Dress up as a gorilla and


run through London.
Why? Because this is
what locals do! Join
thousands in the
annual Great Gorilla
Run, an 8km race
through the city,
and raise funds and
awareness for the
900 mountain gorillas
left in the wild.
XXXX

www.greatgorillarun.org

WL SEPT WHERE NOW.indd 7 17/08/2017 10:25


WHERE NOW | CALENDAR HOT
SEPTEMBER DATES

DARBAR FESTIVAL
1 At Ronnie Scotts Jazz Club, party with
the Spanish Harlem Orchestra (p. 53)

FROM MON 11 SEP

Darbar Festival 2017, held at the Southbank Centre, Barbican Centre and Sadlers
2 Take a tour of the Houses of Parliament,
the home of British democracy (p. 27)

Wells, is an annual celebration of Indian classical music. This month, catch Bollywood
singer Shankar Mahadevan at the Southbank Centre (16 Sep) and listen to traditional
3 It is the last day to visit Zoorasic
Park at ZSL London Zoo (p. 28)

instruments including the tabla, sarangi and ghazal. www.darbar.org


4 Head to a sports bar to watch England
vs Slovakia at Wembley Stadium (p. 34)

5 Oslo, a play about the 1993 Middle East


agreement, opens tonight (p. 50)

6 Enjoy an atmospheric evening candlelit

JASPER JOHNS SUMMER, 1985 MUSEUM OF MODERN ART, NEW YORK/JASPER JOHNS/VAGA, NEW YORK/DACS, LONDON 2017/DIGITAL IMAGE, THE MUSEUM OF MODERN ART, NEW YORK/SCALA, FLORENCE; CHEFS COURTESY OF MEATOPIA
PREVIOUS PAGES: LAST NIGHT OF THE PROMS SIM CANETTY-CLARKE/BBC; CLOWN COURTESY OF BERMONDSEY STREET FESTIVAL; NFL SEAN RYAN/NFL; GORILLA RUN DANIEL D MOSES. THIS PAGE: AMJAD ALI KHAN SANDEEP VIRDEE;
tour of Sir John Soanes Museum (p. 40)

7 Step on to the hallowed Centre Court


during a tour of Wimbledon (p. 42)

8 Book a ride on the underground Mail Rail


at the brand-new Postal Museum (p. 40)

9 Last chance to see Audra McDonald as


bluesy Billie Holiday in Lady Day (p. 50)

10 Wildlife Photographer of the Year closes


at the Natural History Museum (p. 40)

11 Get ready for tears with La Bohme at the


Royal Opera House, from tonight (p. 52)

12 Take the boat to Greenwich and visit The


Royal Observatorys planetarium (p. 29)

13 See the Irish crooner Christy Moore


performing at the Royal Festival Hall

14 The British Museums exhibition about


the ancient Scythians opens today (p. 38)
JASPER JOHNS
FROM SAT 23 SEP 15 What should you buy the Queen? Find out
at Buckingham Palaces Royal Gifts (p. 24)
In Jasper Johns: Something Resembling Truth
at the Royal Academy of Arts, youll see maps, 16 Get your ticket to see Spurs vs Swansea
at Wembley Stadium (p. 34)
lightbulbs and the American flag. By taking
the nations flag out of context and placing 17 Enjoy a free organ recital (4.45pm-5.15pm)
at stunning St Pauls Cathedral (p. 30)
it in a gallery, Johns turned it into a work of
art that needed analysing. It has been 40 years 18 Head to Kew Gardens for large-scale
works at Sculpt at Kew, from today (p. 22)
since a retrospective has been held in this
country, and the artist, now 87 years old, is 19 Enjoy a concert by the American rock band
Foo Fighters, tonight at The O2 (p. 53)
being celebrated. This is part of an initiative
from the gallery to celebrate living artists. 20 See pastels and paintings by Degas at The
National Gallerys new exhibition (p. 40)
www.royalacademy.org.uk
21 Jean-Michel Basquiats edgy exhibition
at Barbican Art Gallery opens today (p. 37)

22 Head to the Serpentine Pavilion for


Joseph Grigelys Park Nights show (p. 43)

MEATOPIA 23 Enjoy a night of Hendrix-inspired music


at Handel & Hendrix in London (p. 26)
FRI 1-SUN 3 SEP

Taking place at Tobacco Dock, 24 See exhibits in the art fair Design Junction
at Granary Square in Kings Cross (p. 36)
this is an event where you
can sharpen your steak 25 Enjoy Gerald Scarfes stage designs at his
exhibition at House of Illustration (p. 14)
knives and get to see top Dont miss the Queer British Art exhibition
chefs and butchers at 26 at Tate Britain, which closes soon (p. 43)
work. You can sample Star dancer Carlos Acosta debuts his group,
meat thats been 27 Acosta Danza, at Sadlers Wells (p. 52)
cooked over logs or
charcoal, and from 28 Catch the final day of the Surrey vs
Lancashire cricket match at the Oval
animals that have been
raised naturally and 29 Its the final week of the Pink Floyd
exhibition at the V&A book now (p. 40)
sourced locally. Meat
gets theatrical here 30 Enjoy cheeky cabaret with Briefs the last
night of the Underbelly Festival (p. 50)
with demonstrations.
www.meatopia.co.uk For more ideas visit www.wheretraveler.com

WL SEPT WHERE NOW.indd 8 17/08/2017 10:26


WL ALADDIN.indd 1 11/08/2017 14:10
MAIN IMAGE OF LONDON ISTOCK; ROWERS COURTESY OF

BROOKS 2017; TONGUE FU LIVE AND ST KATHARINE DOCKS


THE GREAT RIVER RACE; BOAT POETS DESIGN ANDREAS
As the Totally Thames
festival returns with a splash,
Sarah Riches sets sail
along Londons waterways
to discover how you can
make the most of them
TOTALLY THAMES
London wouldnt be what it is without the
Thames, so its only right that its celebrated
once in a while. The annual Totally Thames
(1-30 Sep) brings more than 150 events to
the capital, from underground concerts to
illuminated art.
Totally Thames director, Adrian Evans,
says: For our 20th birthday edition, we are
exploring the working river and the history
of the Thames boatyards through spoken
word and oral history, photography and film.
Were also celebrating our beautiful River
Thames with boat races, barge pulls, rallies,
paddleboarding even a river swim!
Taking the 300th anniversary of Handels
Water Music as inspiration, composer Iain
Chambers hosts Bascule Chamber Concerts
inside Tower Bridge (22-24 Sep). The concerts
feature live recordings of river sounds and
performances from clarinettist Kate Romano
and spoken word artist Kayo Chingonyi,
while the Franco-Cameroonian singer Coco
Mbassi performs a new piece inspired by
conversations on boats carrying immigrants.
In keeping with the theme of river stories,
Working River: Londons Boatyards (1-30 Sep)
brings the history of the rivers moorings to
life through oral history, photography and

Were celebrating
our beautiful river
with races, barge
pulls and rallies
10 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017

WL SEPT RIVER FEATURE.indd 10 17/08/2017 10:34


RIVER FESTIVALS | WHERE NOW
MAIN IMAGE OF LONDON ISTOCK; ROWERS COURTESY OF

BROOKS 2017; TONGUE FU LIVE AND ST KATHARINE DOCKS

film in a series of exhibitions, while four and will be illuminated at night by the Dutch THE GREAT RIVER RACE
THE GREAT RIVER RACE; BOAT POETS DESIGN ANDREAS

emerging spoken word artists spend time on light artist Tim Scheffer. Meanwhile, If youre craving adrenaline, then dont miss
boats to explore river life before performing environmental talks, paddleboarding, river The Great River Race (9 Sep). At 21.6
Boat Poets at the National Poetry Library in the clean-ups and screenings of A Plastic Ocean miles (34.7km), the contest is a virtual
Royal Festival Hall (6, 25 & 28 Sep). take place throughout September. marathon on water. More than 330
Another theme for this years festival is Listen out for other events including international crews take part as they
COURTESY OF TOTALLY THAMES

plastic pollution, which is in the spotlight a Rivers of the World exhibition at City Hall sail from Docklands in east London.
after the World Economic Forum predicted and along the Thames pathway from More The teams pass under 10 bridges
that there will be more plastic than fish in the London to the South Bank (1-30 Sep); a tidal along the way including Tower
sea by 2050. Maria Arceo has collected a swim around Chiswick Eyot island (2 Sep) Bridge, Chiswick, Kew and Richmond
years worth of plastic from 40 beaches along and 400 children singing at The Scoop by before a cannon announces the
the Thames to create Future Dust (1-30 Sep). City Hall (17 Sep). winner at the end of the route in
The large-scale installation tours the Thames www.totallythames.org Ham, Surrey.

www.wheretraveler.com 11

WL SEPT RIVER FEATURE.indd 11 17/08/2017 10:36


WHERE NOW | RIVER FESTIVALS

how to enjoy
the river
CRUISE CONTROL
You can tick off all the
capitals key sights in
one go on a City
Cruises tour with
a live audio
commentary.
Thames Clippers
stretches as far as Putney
and Woolwich. Got kids? Then
take to the water on an amphibious
truck-boat hybrid with London Duck
Tours (to 17 Sep; above), which offers
James Bond and pirate treasure
The River Thames travels hunt-themed tours. For a more thrilling
more than 338km, from adventure, ThamesJets Thames Rush is
the Cotswolds to a 50-minute speedboat that zips you
London and into from Westminster to Canary Wharf and
the North Sea
back. For something more relaxed, opt
for an afternoon tea or lunch cruise with
Bateaux London. Its dinner cruise
includes live entertainment.
www.citycruises.com; www.thamesclippers.
com; www.londonducktours.co.uk; www.
thamesjet.com; www.bateauxlondon.com

BIRDS EYE VIEW


For a unique perspective of the River
Thames, see it from the glass floor of
Tower Bridge, 42m above the waves.
While youre there you might also want to
tour the bridges engine rooms beneath
the river. Alternatively, climb The O2
arena. Up at The O2 (below),
the festival which celebrates its fifth

is a slice of
birthday this year,
gives thrill-seekers

british life the chance to take


a 90-minute guided

VAN/BOAT COURTESY OF LONDON DUCK TOURS; UP AT THE O2 COURTESY OF UP AT THE O2


expedition over the
But the Oxford and Cambridge Boat Race the water by enjoying boat trips, races, roof of the arena.
this is not so expect fancy dress, dragon a regatta and kayaking. www.towerbridge.
boats and face painting, before joining Event organiser Beryl Windsor says: org.uk; www.theo2.co.uk
participants for drinks in the Great River The festival is a slice of British life, like a
KAYAKING AND STALL HOLDER COURTESY OF ANGEL CANAL FESTIVAL;

Race marquee by Ham House. village fte but with boats. We have 60 stalls, RIVERBANK BARS
www.greatriverrace.co.uk plus world food, acoustic bands including There are riverside pubs up and down the
ska and jazz, folk and ukulele, Morris dancers Thames. Dating from 1520, The Prospect
ANGEL CANAL FESTIVAL and a chance for people over nine to learn of Whitby in Wapping (closed 19-23 Sep)
For something more sedate, visit Angel how to canoe or sail. backs on to the water. Featuring an
Canal Festival (3 Sep) on Regents Canal The Mayor of Islington arrives by boat from original flagstone floor, old barrels and
in north London. Originally created for the London Canal Museum, while Pearly built-in ship masts, you can imagine the
inner-city children, over time the festival Kings and Queens people dressed in suits smugglers and pirates who used to sink a
turned into an annual tea party and later covered in pearl buttons, as is the East End pint here, alongside Charles Dickens and
into Angel Day, which, in 1986, developed tradition roam the festival. Samuel Pepys. At the other end of the
into the Angel Canal Festival. This year, more A fun fair, donkey rides, Punch and Judy city, youll find The Ship near Chiswick
than 7,000 people are expected to attend. shows and storytellers entertain children, Bridge. Built in 1781, its rooftop terrace
The founder, the late Crystal Hale, saved who can also do pottery, hire pedaloes and overlooks the finishing line of the Oxford
the City Road Basin from being filled in and play on a pirate ship. and Cambridge Boat Race.
built on. Celebrate her success and love for www.angelcanalfestival.org www.greeneking-pubs.co.uk

12 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017

WL SEPT RIVER FEATURE.indd 12 18/08/2017 15:34


Really great days
out that make a
real dierence

window seat
@zsllondonzoo
#ZooLife

Experience it for yourself at zsl.org/london

Camden Town | Regents Park

LZ_WhereLondon_Sept_276x206_AW1.indd
WL ZSL.indd 1 1 31/07/2017
11/08/2017 13:09
13:56
Gerald Scarfe has been
sketching British icons,
from Pink Floyd to Winston
Churchill, for more than
50 years. Emma Levine
talks to the artist about
his upcoming exhibition

GERALD SCARFE COURTESY OF HOUSE OF ILLUSTRATION; CARICATURES GERALD SCARFE; INK SPLATS ISTOCK

14 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017

WL SEPT GERALD SCARFE FEATURE.indd 14 17/08/2017 10:39


GERALD SCARFE | WHERE NOW

t sounded complete nonsense to


me at the time, remarked Gerald
Scarfe, when the band Pink Floyd
asked him to create the animation
to accompany the album, film and
tour for The Wall in the late 1970s.
Its not surprising that this seemed like
a request out of the blue. The London-born
Scarfe has been best known for his acerbic
political cartoons for more than half a century
now. In the true tradition of a caricature artist,
his work has been a constant commentary
on public figures ever since his first cartoons
for the satirical magazines Private Eye and
Punch were published in the early 1960s.
When I first came to prominence they said
I was the new Hogarth. I could see what they
meant, Scarfe comments, referring to the
English 18th-century satirical artist
part of a long tradition in this country.
I believe it is important for satirical art to
be with us always. To be able to question our
leaders is a very healthy state. I always think MICK
like the old court jester, who was able to
poke fun at the king and was able to make
JAGGER
comments on behalf of the common people.
We have a very great tradition of satirical art
in this country supreme examples being
Hogarth, Gillray, Cruikshank and Rowlandson.

IN THE SPOTLIGHT Disney approached him to design the sets of the late Chinese leader, Chairman Mao.
London is celebrating Scarfe. The House and characters for the movie Hercules. It was It has overtones of Salvador Dalis sofa shaped
of Illustration hosts the new exhibition seen to be a left-field choice, but one that like the mouth of Mae West although this
Gerald Scarfe: Stage and Screen (from 22 Sep). turned out to be hugely successful. Later, is the one with the real bite.
It turns the spotlight on to the theatrical Tchaikovskys ballet The Nutcracker courted He has attacked leaders across the political
side of this hugely versatile artist, exploring controversy even before it was staged in spectrum with his razor-sharp pen for decades,
his lesser-known production designs, London, when Scarfe designed the set, mainly for The Sunday Times for 44 years, from
with exhibits including and included killer mice wearing gas which he has only recently retired. Nothing
storyboards from masks, brandishing Kalashnikovs.
GERALD SCARFE COURTESY OF HOUSE OF ILLUSTRATION; CARICATURES GERALD SCARFE; INK SPLATS ISTOCK

escapes his scrutiny: one of his earliest pieces


Hercules to the English It is a great escape from drawing was of Sir Winston Churchill looking frail in
National Ballets The the same wretched politicians over the House of Commons in 1964. It was
Nutcracker. Meanwhile, the Victoria and over, he says. considered too controversial to publish in
and Albert Museums exhibition Pink The Times, but Private Eye had put it on its
Floyd: Their Mortal Remains (to 1 Oct) MEETING THE MASTER cover when he died, six months later.
includes exhibits and interviews on As a precocious art student
At the time I drew Churchill we, the public,
their album and film The Wall. in 1987, I had the pleasure of
only knew his iconic image: the bulldog with
Mostly Im known for my political meeting my hero. While studying
the cigar clenched within his teeth facing
cartoons, but as people will see Scarfes work, alongside other British
the Hun from the white cliffs of Dover. When
I have entered many other worlds: caricature art, I was in contact with
I went to draw him in the House of Commons,
rocknroll, opera, ballet, theatre him and made an unannounced
it was the first time Id seen him and the icon
and animation, Scarfe says. This visit to his west London home.
was now a shambling, senile wreck helped
exhibition explores some of those He and his wife, Jane Asher,
into the chamber of the House of Commons
other areas bringing my drawings welcomed me graciously
to life, bringing them off the page and and showed me around by two young MPs. It was a shock to see
breathing life into them through his upstairs studio where what he had become, Scarfe reveals.
theatre, animation and so on. I was able to see many of Margaret Thatcher was often portrayed
Scarfe is certainly something of his iconic pieces up close. with a stabbing, aquiline nose, drooping
a Renaissance man, as demonstrated The ever-imaginative eyes and a small mouth, full of bloody
by his remarkably diverse career. Not Scarfe went 3D to create incisors, he describes in an interview.
only his collaboration with Pink Floyd one of my favourite pieces, Tony Blair was unfavourably portrayed
They might be rock gods, but to me Chair Man Mao: a sturdy, as an evil-looking Ronald McDonald.
they were just regular guys, he red leather armchair Scarfes work is often grotesque, and
comments wryly but in 1994 MARY designed in the form sometimes even obscene.
POPPINS

www.wheretraveler.com 15

WL SEPT GERALD SCARFE FEATURE.indd 15 17/08/2017 10:40


WHERE NOW | GERALD SCARFE

ACCEPTANCE AND APPROVAL


The cartoonists job is to be as truthful as
possible. In Private Eye they encouraged me
to attack. Im happy to draw some of these
characters as pigs, or demons or whatever
thats my job, Scarfe says. I should be able
to attack anybody although that can be
difficult at the moment, he added, making
a sombre acknowledgement to the attacks
on the French satirical newspaper Charlie
Hebdo in 2015.
But do his cartoons always meet with
approval? Some will balk at his creations,
including readers, publishers and the
subjects themselves. In 2013, The Sunday
Times publisher Rupert Murdoch was forced
to apologise when Scarfes blood-splattered
cartoon of Israeli prime minister Benjamin
Netanyahu was deemed by many to have
crossed the line.
On the other hand, as Scarfe comments:
Ive had some politicians write to me to ask
for a copy of an offensive cartoon Ive done
of them maybe to hang up in their toilet!
Most prominent figures do not react to
their caricature, but perhaps they feel it is MONTY
beneath their dignity. No one has actually PYTHON
confronted me in the street and told me
they didnt like my work yet!

TODAYS WORKS
To see his works in situ, Rosewood London
hotel in Holborn opened Scarfes Bar in 2013,
for which he was commissioned to paint
THE BRITISH LIBRARY
caricatures of famous British figures on its
Satire is a worldwide genre, as shown
walls. Its figures range from a grinning Princess
at the exhibition Comic and Cartoon
Anne to a guitar-strumming Paul McCartney
Art from the Arabic World at The British
and a pouting Mick Jagger, and there are
Library (until 29 Oct). The art, history and
unflattering portrayals of political leaders
significance of Arab comics are examined,
Harold Wilson and Ed Miliband. Scarfe has
from 19th-century Egyptian satirical press
just drawn cartoons to accompany the bars
and 20th-century childrens comics to
themed cocktail menu, with British characters
contemporary graphic novels. The display
including Harry Potter and Mary Poppins.
sheds light on issues such as politics and
But will there always be politicians who
society across the Arab world. www.bl.uk
inspire him to satirise? The most memorable
are usually the most wicked people like
THE CARTOON MUSEUM
Richard Nixon, Idi Amin, Enoch Powell, Tony
Now in its 30th year, The Cartoon
Blair and George Bush. And now there is the
Museum champions the best of British
frightful Donald Trump, Scarfe says.
cartoon art. Its ever-growing permanent
From this evidence alone, the 81-year-old
collection features great masters of the
shows no sign of flagging, and remains as
genre including Gillray, Cruikshank and
razor sharp and relevant as ever.
Hogarth. www.cartoonmuseum.org
MARGARET House of Illustration, 2 Granary Square, N1C 4BH.
THATCHER T: 020-3696 2020. www.houseofillustration.org.uk;
SIR JOHN SOANES MUSEUM
Victoria and Albert Museum, Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL.
The 18th-century William Hogarth,
T: 020-7942 2000. www.vam.ac.uk
dubbed the grandfather of satire, is
CARICATURES GERALD SCARFE

TO BE ABLE TO considered to be one of the


greatest-ever English political
QUESTION OUR cartoonists. His works were critical of
LEADERS IS A London society in a darkly humorous

VERY HEALTHY way. Tucked away in this museum, you


can see his famous series of prints from
STATE - SCARFE The Rakes Progress. www.soane.org

16 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U N E 2017

WL SEPT GERALD SCARFE FEATURE.indd 16 17/08/2017 10:41


FLAGSHIP PICCADILLY-COVENT GARDEN-MARYLEBONE HIGH ST-TOTTENHAM COURT ROAD
HARRODS-ST PANCRAS INTERNATIONAL-WESTFIELD LONDON-WESTFIELD STRATFORD
CAT938

CAT938_COLOUR CAPSULE_WHERE
WL CATH KIDSTON.indd 17 LONDON.indd 1 03/08/2017
15/08/2017 17:05
11:16
WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

WEIGHT WATCHERS
Weigh luggage before you go
to the airport to avoid fines
Go Travel Digital Luggage Weighing Scale,
9.99, John Lewis, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX

FROM TAG ALONG

LONDON
Handcrafted tags made from soft deerskin
Burlington Luggage Tag, 85 each, Smythson,
40 New Bond St, W1S 2DE
CHECKING IN
Created by
iconic designer THE BACK STORY
Cath Kidston, British designer
famous for her Take your pick from these Anya Hindmarch
London prints is famous for her
Marching Band travel items, from carry-on quirky accessories
PVC Passport bags to mini chess sets Eyes Mini Backpack
Holder, Cath in Circus Leather,
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180 Piccadilly, Hindmarch,
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This eye mask contains a pinch of lavender
to soothe tired eyes and aid sleep
Otis Batterbee Cravat-print Cotton Silk Eye YOUR CUP OF TEA
Mask, 50, John Lewis, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX This travel cup from the world-famous
store has a London-inspired print
Pretty City Thermal Travel Mug, 10,
Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL

CHECKMATE!
A chess set from one of
ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE RETAILERS; WOMAN ISTOCK

Top Londons best-known toy stores

Pick
Travel Chess & Checkers, 17, Hamleys,
188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT

A BAG OF TRICKS
This bag contains
a battery charger pack
for mobile devices
YOUR KEY (RING) TO THE CITY Small Mount Street Tech
From London designer Amanda Wakeley Bag, 650, Aspinal of
Sea Fox Natural Keychain, 69, Amanda Wakeley, London, 25 Brook
Harvey Nichols, 109-125 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7RJ St, W1K 4HB

18 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017

WL SEPT PRODUCTS.indd 18 17/08/2017 10:44


WL RIVER ISLAND.indd 19 15/08/2017 11:16
SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE
Clockwise from
this image:
30 St Mary Axe
(the Gherkin);
BT Tower; Lacey
House in north
London; Vantage
House in Islington

Grand designs
An architecture and design festival is set to open more than a few doors across the capital, says Sarah Riches
They say a golden key can open any door, again, and you can also explore the
but you dont need any key to take part BT Tower and The Shard.
in Open House London (16-17 Sep), a free New for 2017 is a remodelled Victorian
city-wide architecture and design festival. railway cottage in Wood Green, north
The independent architecture education London, which has a moveable kitchen to
organisation, Open-City, has been hosting the give its residents flexibility and a larger living
festival since 1992, granting visitors area when required. Theres also

LACEY HOUSE VICKY BAMFORTH PHOTOGRAPHY; VANTAGE HOUSE LINDSAY BROADLEY


access to buildings that are a 1980s mews house in
not usually open to the Camden that has roof 30 ST MARY AXE NIGEL YOUNG; BT TOWER COURTESY OF OPEN HOUSE LONDON;
public. Most are chosen glazing above a winding
for their architectural staircase, in the style
merit, either as part of a Moroccan riad.
of the building or as Also new this year
a whole. are entire rooms in
In recent years, homes made from
Crossrail construction just clay, concrete In addition to touring the sites, you can
sites, embassies and or glass, and a flat in take part in free bike rides, as well as guided
zero-carbon buildings a dome of a former engineering and landscape tours of
have taken part, as well Victorian church. construction sites, recycling centres and
as the archive buildings Architects, engineers major regeneration projects.
in Kew Gardens and the and planners will be on Children, meanwhile, can do quiz trails and
ArcelorMittal Orbit. site to answer your questions get involved in architectural model-making.
More than 800 buildings are taking at many of the locations. You can also The Open House weekend has proved so
part this year. The Citys iconic Tower 42 listen to a range of experts cover subjects popular, it now takes place in 30 cities around
on Old Broad Street, and 30 St Mary Axe such as what makes a successful city, or go the world. Book your place!
better known as the Gherkin take part on one of the free walks. www.openhouselondon.org.uk

20 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017

WL SEPT SIGHTSEEING.indd 20 17/08/2017 10:50


LONDONS MOVING
RESTAURANT
Travel through the heart of the city and enjoy the striking
sights, live entertainment and delicious food on board
our f loating restaurant.
LACEY HOUSE VICKY BAMFORTH PHOTOGRAPHY; VANTAGE HOUSE LINDSAY BROADLEY

I
LUNCH AFTERNOON TEA DINNER I I EVENTS I GIFTS
www.cruises.london Tel: +44 (0)203 797 3617
/BateauxLondon @BateauxLondon /bateauxlondon

WHERE LONDON_HALF PAGE_BATEAUX_AUG2017.indd 1 07/08/2017 14:57


www.wheretraveler.com 21

WL SEPT SIGHTSEEING.indd 21 17/08/2017 10:51


SIGHTSEEING

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (Tube), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts
and last entry time. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81

SIGHTSEEING
Set in stone Apsley House
A new contemporary outdoor sculpture Visit the home of the Duke of Wellington to
exhibition, Sculpt at Kew, is coming to see its grand interiors and fine art. Please check
the website for prices and times. www.english-
Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew (from 18 Sep;
heritage.org.uk/apsleyhouse. 149 Piccadilly, Hyde
p. 29). Original artwork made from marble, Park Corner, W1J 7NT. T: 020-7499 5676. F6.
stone, bronze, ceramics and glass is dotted Station: Hyde Park Corner.
along an outdoor trail that winds around
ArcelorMittal Orbit
the grounds. Expect to see pieces by This 115m tall observation tower, designed by
Andrey Vrabchev (right), life-sized animals the Turner Prize-winning artist Sir Anish Kapoor,
by Piers Mason and figurative art by Paul offers 20-mile views over Queen Elizabeth
Vanstone. Other highlights include birds Olympic Park and beyond. Adventurous types
can abseil down it or whizz down its 178m tunnel
of prey mid-flight, and turtles swimming
slide, which is the worlds longest. Mon-Fri
through kelp. All the works are for sale just 11am-5pm; Sat-Sun 10am-6pm. Adult 12.50;
dont expect them to fit in your suitcase! child 7.50. www.arcelormittalorbit.com. Queen
Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2SS. T: 0333-800
8099. Off map. Station: Stratford.

Banqueting House
This 17th-century building was designed by
Inigo Jones for James I, with an exquisite painted
ceiling by celebrated Baroque artist Peter Paul
Rubens. It is the only remaining part of the Palace
of Westminster, which was destroyed by fire. Daily
10am-1pm, but call before visiting. Adult 6.50;
child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Whitehall, SW1A 2ER.
T: 020-3166 6000. E8. Station: Westminster.

The Society of the Golden Keys


of Great Britain (Les Clefs dOr)
Welcomes you to London.

Please visit the concierge desk


during your stay - nobody knows
the UK like Les Clefs dOr.
IMAGE COURTESY OF SCULPT AT KEW

Preferred charity partner

andriuXphoto.com

22 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017

WL SEPT SIGHTSEEING.indd 22 18/08/2017 15:35


kids
gofree
with a
FAMILY
RIVER PASS

Sightseeing Coach Tours l Open Top Bus Tours


Warner Bros. Studio Tour London l London Bike Tours
Attraction Tickets l Groups l UK & Paris Rail Trips
020 7630 2039 www.goldentours.com
IMAGE COURTESY OF SCULPT AT KEW

TM & 2017 Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. Harry Potter Publishing Rights JKR.

www.wheretraveler.com 23

WL SEPT SIGHTSEEING.indd 23 17/08/2017 10:58


SIGHTSEEING

Battersea Park Childrens Zoo


Zoo with keeper experiences, a play
Top area and a petting farm. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult
Pick 9.50; child 7.50. www.batterseaparkzoo.co.uk.
Battersea Park, Chelsea Bridge Gate, SW11 4NJ.
T: 020-7924 5826. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.

The British Library


The worlds largest library has many temporary
exhibitions and a great permanent collection.
To 19 Sep: Gay UK: Love, Law and
Liberty. Marking the changes in gay culture since the
1895 trial of Oscar Wilde. Please check for times.
Admission free; charges for tours, some events and
exhibitions. www.bl.uk. 96 Euston Rd, NW1 2DB.
T: 0330-333 1144. C7. Station: Kings Cross.

Buckingham Palace
The London residence and principal workplace
of the monarchy, which is only open to the public
during summer. To 1 Oct: Summer Opening. Visit
the palaces glorious state rooms and the special
London rocks exhibition, Royal Gifts, which showcases presents that
have been given to the Queen. Daily 9am-7.30pm.
A generation after the legendary guitarist Jimi Hendrix first arrived in London, the Adult 23; child 13. www.royalcollection.org.uk.
museum Handel & Hendrix in London is celebrating the stars career with tours and Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-
123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.
a one-off night out. Hendrix arrived in the capital in September 1966, and within hours he
performed solo on a borrowed guitar at an impromptu gig at The Scotch of St James in Changing the Guard
Mayfair. Two days later he held auditions for his band, The Jimi Hendrix Experience. Watch the famous changing of the Queens
Guard on Buckingham Palaces forecourt (except
To celebrate, Hendrix at The Scotch (23 Sep; p. 26) is a night of Hendrix-inspired cocktails,
in very wet weather). Free. From 10am; check
three live bands and a DJ playing 1960s vinyl. Fans can also join a tour by London Rock online for dates. www.householddivision.org.uk.
Tours, which stops by Hendrixs Mayfair flat and the spot where he burnt his first guitar. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-
123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.

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W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017 1 31/01/2017 14:43

WL SEPT SIGHTSEEING.indd 24 17/08/2017 11:09


SIGHTSEEING

ADVER TORIAL

Autumn in
Greenwich
Theres no better way to start autumn
than with a Sunday buffet brunch with
bottomless Bellinis at Market Brasserie,
InterContinental London The O2.
The hotel has views across the river and
is around the corner from Emirates Air
Line cable car where you can fly over
the Thames for more amazing views.
September is your last chance to
catch up with BB-8 and his pals at Star
Wars: Identities at The O2. Its a fantastic
exhibition of backstage props,
costumes and memorabilia from the
film series. The wide open spaces
of Blackheath are beautiful in early
autumn and perfect for a family-
friendly festival. On Blackheath is
a celebration of music, food and acts,
including The Libertines and Travis.
See the Painted Hall at the Old Royal
Naval College. Ascend 60 feet to see
the painted roof in a Ceiling Tour of the
artwork that took 18 years to paint.
YON_003_Map_Tile_120x175.pdf 1 11/08/2017 17:05

Meet the talking car at

*
JIMI HENDRIX BARRIE WENTZELL

You drive. We guide!

To find out more about this unforgettable sightseeing experience, ask your concierge

www.wheretraveler.com 25

WL SEPT SIGHTSEEING.indd 25 17/08/2017 11:12


SIGHTSEEING

Chelsea Physic Garden Cutty Sark Dr Johnsons House


Admire 5,000 species of plants at Londons oldest This 19th-century ship is the worlds Writer Dr Samuel Johnson compiled his first English
botanic garden, including medicinal and tropical last surviving tea clipper. Explore interactive displays dictionary, published in 1755, in this 18th-century
ones. Adult 10.50; child 6.95. Please check for on deck or take part in family-friendly events. Daily period home. Check for staged performances,
times. www.chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk. 66 Royal 10am-5pm. Adult 13.50; child 7. Joint tickets with talks and tours. Mon-Sat 11am-5.30pm. Adult 6;
Hospital Rd, SW3 4HS. T: 020-7352 5646. Off map. Royal Observatory available. www.rmg.co.uk/cutty child 2.50. www.drjohnsonshouse.org. 17 Gough
Station: Sloane Square. sark. King William Walk, SE10 9HT. T: 020-8312 Square, EC4A 3DE. T: 020-7353 3745. D9.
6608. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich. Station: Temple/Chancery Lane.
Chiswick House & Gardens Trust
See Old Masters on display in this neo-Palladian Dennis Severs House Eltham Palace & Gardens
villa. Gardens daily 7am-dusk; house Fri-Wed Learn about a family of Huguenot silk weavers from Experience the decade of decadence as you are
10am-6pm; conservatory daily 10am-4pm. House the 17th to 19th centuries. Check for times, plus transported back to the 1930s. Part showpiece of
Art Deco design and part medieval royal palace,
adult 7.20; child 4.30. www.chgt.org.uk. Chiswick silent and candlelit tours. Tickets 5-15. www.dennis
make yourself at home as a guest of the Courtaulds,
House, Burlington Lane, W4 2RP. T: 020-8995 0508. severshouse.co.uk. 18 Folgate St, E1 6BX.
its wealthy owners. Check for prices and times.
Off map. Station: Chiswick Park. T: 020-7247 4013. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.
www.english-heritage.org.uk/eltham. Court Yard,
SE9 5QE. T: 020-8294 2548. Off map. Station: Eltham.

Fulham Palace
This 15th-century building was the summer retreat
of the Bishops of London. Now its a museum with
gardens, a caf and art gallery. It has regular kids
crafts, garden walks and historical tours. 20 Sep:
La La Land. Outdoor screening. 21 Sep: The Great
Gatsby. Outdoor screening. Museum, historic rooms
and shop Mon-Thur 12.30pm-4.30pm; Sun noon-

THE VIEW YOULL


5pm. Admission free, charges for special events.
www.fulhampalace.org. Bishops Avenue, SW6 6EA.
T: 020-7736 3233. Off map. Station: Putney Bridge.

NEVER FORGET
Go Ape Alexandra Palace
A new treetop obstacle course with
ladders, bridges and zip lines has opened for kids
at this grand palace atop a hill, which has beautiful
views of London. Make a day of it and enjoy the
boating lake nearby. Daily from 9am. Adult from
33; child from 25. www.goape.co.uk. Alexandra
Palace, Alexandra Palace Way, N22 7AY. T: 0330-
057 2329. Off map. Station: Alexandra Palace.

Go Ape Battersea Park


Make like a monkey at this treetop
adventure playground, which is suitable for children
over six and adults. Negotiate ladders, bridges
and zip lines while attached to a harness. Staff are
on hand throughout the three-and-a-half-hour
experience. Daily from 8.30am. Adult 35; child
27. www.goape.co.uk. Battersea Park, SW11 4NJ.
T: 0330-057 2329. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.

Golden Hinde II
A full-size reconstruction of Sir
Francis Drakes 16th-century vessel, in which he
circumnavigated the globe. Events include dressing
up in historical costumes, quiz and jazz nights and
battle workshops. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Guided
tour adult 7; child 5. www.goldenhinde.com.
1 Pickfords Wharf, Clink St, SE1 9DG. T: 020-7403
0123. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Ham House and Gardens


One of Europes greatest 17th-century houses, with
gardens that are said to be haunted. Please check
for times. Adult 10.80; child 5.40. www.national
trust.org.uk. Ham St, Surrey, TW10 7RS. T: 020-
8940 1950. Off map. Station: Richmond.

Handel & Hendrix in London


Book Online & Save The former homes of Anglo-German composer

londoneye.com George Frideric Handel and American guitarist Jimi


Hendrix. See where Handel lived and composed
for 36 years, plus Hendrixs bedroom. Regular
Conceived and designed by Marks Barfield Architects. evening events, including recitals. 23 Sep: Hendrix
Coca-Cola, the Dynamic Ribbon Device and the design of the
Coca-Cola Contour Bottle are registered trademarks of The Coca-Cola Company. at The Scotch. A night of Hendrix-inspired cocktails,
plus three live bands and a DJ playing 1960s sounds
(p. 24). Mon-Sat 11pm-6pm. Adult 10; child 5.
www.handelhouse.org. 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB.
T: 020-7495 1685. D6. Station: Bond Street.

26 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017

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SIGHTSEEING

HMS Belfast The London Bridge Experience & Tombs The London Dungeon
Permanently moored on the River Thames, Learn about the exciting history of the 1,700-year- This uniquely thrilling walkthrough attraction
this ship is Europes only surviving World War II old London Bridge site, which was built in around on the South Bank will whisk you back to the
cruiser. In service until 1965, its now a reminder 53AD and has been the scene of murder, intrigue, capitals most perilous past. See, hear, feel and
of Britains naval heritage, with lots of on-deck collapse and fire. Special effects and actors bring (ahem) smell the chillingly amusing characters
fun for all ages. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult 14.50; this spine-tingling scary attraction to life. Tickets of the bad old days as they come to life before
child 7.25. www.iwm.org.uk. The Queens Walk, also include admission to the London Tombs, under you through scary shows, live actors, scenes and
off Tooley St, SE1 2JH. T: 020-7940 6300. E11. the bridge, where hundreds of bodies were rides. The shows are based on real London history
Station: London Bridge. uncovered from the plague pit. Paranormal and legends. Not suitable for small children or the
investigators have witnessed many ghostly faint-hearted. Joint tickets with SEA LIFE London,
Houses of Parliament sightings here. It is not suitable for young children Coca-Cola London Eye, Madame Tussauds and
The site of Parliament since 1265 and still a royal or the faint-hearted. Please check for times and Shreks Adventure! available. Please check for
palace; the current building including Big Ben prices. www.thelondonbridgeexperience.com. times and prices. www.thedungeons.com. County
was built in the 19th century. Tours every Sat; 2-4 Tooley St, SE1 2SY. T: 020-7403 6333. E10. Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 020-7654
1 Sep and From 15 Sep. Advance audio tour adult Station: London Bridge. 0809. F8. Station: Waterloo/Embankment.
18.50, child 7.50 (first child free); guided tour
adult 25.50, child 11. On the day audio tour adult
20.50, child 8.50 (first child free); guided tour adult
28, child 12. www.parliament.uk/visit. Palace of
Westminster, Parliament Square, SW1A 0AA.
T: 020-7219 4114. F8. Station: Westminster.

The Jewel Tower


Built around 1365 to house Edward IIIs treasures,
this is one of only two buildings left from the
medieval Palace of Westminster after an 1834 fire.
Dont miss the ornate ceiling carvings. Please
check for prices and times. www.english-heritage.
org.uk. Abingdon St, SW1P 3JX. T: 020-7222 2219.
F8. Station: Westminster.

Keats House
This beautiful 19th-century home belonged to
the Romantic poet John Keats. See his paintings,
books, letters and household items, plus the
engagement ring he gave to his sweetheart
Fanny Brawne. Wed-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult 6.50;
child free. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/keatshouse
hampstead. Keats Grove, NW3 2RR. T: 020-7332
3868. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

Kensington Palace
This royal residence sits in Kensington Gardens and
was Princess Dianas last home. To 28 Feb 2018:
Diana: Her Fashion Story. An exhibition dedicated
to the style of the Peoples Princess. To 12 Nov:
Enlightened Princesses: Caroline, Augusta, Charlotte and
the Shaping of the Modern World. This exhibition shines
a spotlight on three women who married into the
British royal family. Daily, please check for times.
Adult 17; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Kensington
Gardens, W8 4PX. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map.
Station: High Street Kensington/Queensway.

Kenwood
On the edge of Hampstead Heath, Kenwood
House with its landscaped gardens is a hidden
gem. Admire Robert Adams interiors and an art
collection made up of Rembrandt, Vermeer and
Gainsborough. Free admission. Please check for
times. www.english-heritage.org.uk/kenwood.
Hampstead Lane, NW3 7JR. T: 020-8348 1286.
Off map. Station: Hampstead.

KidZania London
Parents take a back seat here as
children take charge. In an area three times the
size of Trafalgar Square, two storeys contain every
imaginable activity for kids of all ages, including
TV and animation studios, a chocolate factory,
pit lane and aviation academy theres even
a tattoo parlour. Occasional events for adults;
please check. Daily from 10am, check for closing BOOK YOUR TICKETS TODAY & SAVE 10%
times. Adult from 15; child from 19. www.london. BIGBUSTOURS.COM
kidzania.com. Westfield London Shopping Centre,
Ariel Way, W12 7GA. T: 0330-131 3333. Map inset.
Station: Shepherds Bush.

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SIGHTSEEING

Coca-Cola London Eye ZSL London Zoo Madame Tussauds


This magnificent London icon is one of the Immerse yourself in the animal kingdom Celebrated home of life-sized wax figures
worlds largest observation wheels the structure at the worlds oldest scientific zoo, which has more depicting famous people from the worlds of
is 443ft tall and the wheel has a diameter of 394ft. than 750 species. As well as an aquarium, penguin entertainment, politics, sport and history, from
Interactive screens in each pod give an insight beach and a chance to see endangered Sumatran the Queen to Adele. Dont miss the permanent
into the landmarks on view. Please check online tigers, you can visit the Land of the Lions enclosure, Star Wars exhibition, featuring 11 sets from the film;
for details of special packages that you can book which is home to Asiatic lions in surroundings a 5.5m-high animatronic head in Kong: Skull Island
such as the Champagne Experience, Private designed to resemble an Indian national park. and will.i.am from The Voice UK. Detective fans
Capsules, Proposal Capsule and Cupids Capsule. To 3 Sep: Zoorassic Park. Dinosaur- will enjoy The Sherlock Holmes Experience as well as
Joint tickets with SEA LIFE London, London inspired exhibition where you can travel back over the evening show The Games Afoot, an immersive
Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shreks 65 million years to the Mesozoic period. To 9 Sep: attraction with actors, illusion and sound effects.
Adventure! available. Please check for times and Summer Sleepover. 17 Sep: London Zoo Stampede. Alien Escape. A new interactive exhibit. Joint tickets
prices. www.londoneye.com. County Hall, A 5km and 10km race. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult with SEA LIFE London, London Dungeon, London
Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. 29.75; child 22. www.zsl.org. Regents Park, NW1 Eye and Shreks Adventure! available. Please check
T: 0871-781 3000. F8. Station: Waterloo. 4RY. T: 020-7722 3333. C6. Station: Camden Town. for times. Adult 35; child 30. www.madame
tussauds.com/london. Marylebone Rd, NW1 5LR.
T: 0871-894 3000. C6. Station: Baker Street.

The Monument
This beautiful stone column standing in the heart
of the City was built in 1677 to commemorate the
1666 Great Fire of London. Climb the 311 steps to
its observation gallery. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult
4.50; child 2.30. Joint tickets with the Tower
Bridge Exhibition available. www.themonument.
org.uk. Monument St, EC3R 6BD. T: 020-7626 2717.
E10. Station: Monument.

The O2
Huge entertainment complex in Greenwich.
To 3 Sep: Star Wars Identities. As you
browse 200 original sketches, models and props
from the popular film franchise, youll be asked
questions about your personality to reveal
which Star Wars character you most identify with.
Mon-Sat 10am-6pm. Tickets 10-25. www.theo2.
co.uk. Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463
2000. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

Old Royal Naval College


This Baroque masterpiece, part of the Maritime
Greenwich World Heritage Site, is the home of
British naval training, with costumed characters
and tours. Dont miss the magnificent ceiling in
the Painted Hall. During the temporary conservation
project, you can see the ceiling up close on an
hour-long tour from an observation deck (adult
10; child 5). Check for guided tours. Daily
10am-5pm. Admission free. www.ornc.org.
King William Walk, SE10 9NN. T: 020-8269 4799.
Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.

Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park


Formerly the site of the London
2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games, this park
includes an aquatics centre and the ArcelorMittal
Orbit observation tower. There are also attractive
gardens with wild flowers, planted for the
transformation of the area. Please check website
for sporting events (p. 22). Park open 24 hours
daily. Admission free. www.queenelizabeth
olympicpark.co.uk. Queen Elizabeth Olympic
Park, E20 2ST. T: 0800-072 2110. Off map.
Station: Stratford.

Ripleys Believe It or Not!


This curiosity-filled museum, with more
than 700 unusual historical artefacts, curiosities
and art, is a hit across the globe. Explore an
intriguing range of oddities over six floors, including
a shrunken head, an albino alligator, the worlds
tallest man, a huge portrait of the Beatles made
from more than 10,000 postage stamps and a
mirror maze. Daily 10am-midnight. Adult 27.99;
child 20.99. www.ripleyslondon.com. 1 Piccadilly
Circus, W1J 0DA. T: 020-3238 0022. E7.
Station: Piccadilly Circus.

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SIGHTSEEING

Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew St Jamess Palace St Martin-in-the-Fields


Better known as Kew Gardens, this botanical One of Londons oldest palaces, St Jamess Palace Landmark Palladian church close to Trafalgar Square,
research centre and World Heritage Site contains was constructed in the 14th century and has been though there has been a church on the site since
plants from across the globe, with Victorian tropical home to royalty. Closed to the public. www.royal. the medieval period. The church has close links
greenhouses and a Chinese pagoda. The treetop gov.uk. Marlborough Rd, SW1A 1BS. E7. Station: with the Royal Family, 10 Downing Street and
walkway offers great views. Experience The Hive, St Jamess Park. the Admiralty. Look out for tours, a brass-rubbing
an enormous aluminium structure modelled on centre and live classical music (some free). Holy
a beehive surrounded by wildflowers. Dont miss St Katharine Docks Communion given daily and classical music
Kew Palace, King George IIIs former home with This central London marina dates back to the performed weekly by candlelight. It also has a
kitchens and garden. Admission is free with 11th century and is tucked away by the Tower Caf in the Crypt, and a Caf in the Courtyard on
Kew Garden tickets. 6 Sep: Pulp Fiction. Outdoor of London. The vibrant waterside destination is the open terrace directly behind the church. Check
screening. 7 Sep: Grease. Outdoor screening. lined with regular markets, shops, galleries and for opening times and concert details. Admission
Daily from 10am, please check for closing times. restaurants and is well worth a visit. www.skdocks. free; brass rubbing from 4.50. www.stmartin-in-
From 18 Sep: Sculpt at Kew. Outdoor sculpture co.uk. 50 St Katharines Way, E1W 1LA. T: 020-7264 the-fields.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ.
trail (p. 22). Adult 15; child 3.50; charges for 5287. Off map. Station: Tower Hill. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
special exhibitions. www.kew.org. Richmond,
Surrey, TW9 3AB. T: 020-8332 5655. Off map.
Station: Kew Gardens.

The Royal Institution of Great Britain


Grade I-listed Georgian building housing
a museum about the institutions 15 Nobel
Prize-winning scientists. Visit its free Faraday
Museum and you can see scientists at work, too.
Check the website for its programme of talks.
Mon-Fri 9am-6pm. Admission free; charges for
talks. www.rigb.org. 21 Albemarle St, W1S 4BS.
T: 020-7409 2992. E6. Station: Green Park.

The Royal Mews


Built by John Nash in 1825, this beautiful part of
Buckingham Palace houses the Queens vehicles
and horses, including the Diamond Jubilee State
Coach. Witness daily life and learn about the
mews history. Mon-Sat 10am-5pm. Adult 10;
child 5.80. www.royalcollection.org.uk.
Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 1QH.
T: 0303-123 7302. F6. Station: Victoria.

The Royal Observatory


The home of Greenwich Mean Time and Londons
only planetarium, which has regular astronomy
workshops and Observatory tours. Learn about
time in the Peter Harrison Galleries and watch
planetarium shows throughout the day. The Sky
Tonight. Daily planetarium show that explores the
moon, constellations, planets and deep space
objects. Meridian Line and Observatory daily
10am-5pm. Adult 9.50; child 5. www.rmg.co.uk.
Blackheath Ave, SE10 8XJ. T: 020-8858 4422.
Off map. Station: Greenwich/Maze Hill/Cutty Sark.

SEA LIFE London


One of Europes largest aquariums
with more than 500 species of global marine life
and walk-through tank tunnels, including a scary
glass walkway above 16 sharks. Ocean Invaders:
Enter the World of Jellyfish. Get up close to a swarm
of jellyfish at this permanent exhibition. You can
also snorkel with sharks (from 80 including
admission). Please check for times and prices.
Joint tickets with London Eye, London Dungeon,
Madame Tussauds and Shreks Adventure!
available. www.sealife.co.uk/london. County Hall,
Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0333-321 2001.
F8. Station: Westminster/Waterloo.

Shreks Adventure!
Ride the magical 4D DreamWorks
Tours bus to step into live actor fairytale-themed
shows where you can meet the characters from
the much-loved films. Joint tickets with London
Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and
SEA LIFE London available. Please check
for times. Adult 27.50; child 22. www.shreks
adventure.com. Riverside Building, County Hall,
Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-221
2837. F8. Station: Waterloo.

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SIGHTSEEING

St Pauls Cathedral 18 Stafford Terrace above the River Thames. Joint tickets with
Sir Christopher Wrens magnificent 300-year-old From 8 Sep: This house gives an insight into the The Monument available. Daily 10am-5.30pm.
cathedral sits on Ludgate Hill at the highest point personal lives of Punch cartoonist Edward Linley Please check for prices and bridge lift times.
of the City of London and is a Grade I-listed Sambourne, his wife Marion, their two children and www.towerbridge.org.uk. Tower Bridge Rd,
building. It has stunning mosaics. Climb up the their live-in servants, who lived here from 1875. Wed, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7403 3761. E11. Station: Tower Hill.
dome to the Whispering Gallery and a further Sat-Sun pre-booked tours 11am, drop-in 2pm- Tower of London
271 steps to the Golden Gallery for a classic 5.30pm. Adult from 7; child from 5. www.rbkc. This historic landmark includes the
London panorama. Then head down to the crypt, gov.uk. 18 Stafford Terrace, W8 7BH. T: 020-7602 Bloody Tower, Traitors Gate and the Jewel House,
with its monuments to Wren and Lord Nelson. 3316. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington. home of the Crown Jewels. Enjoy free guided
Dont miss Oculus: An Eye into St Pauls, a 270-degree tours by Beefeaters (Yeoman Warders). Book
film experience, for an excellent overview. Free Tower Bridge Exhibition ahead online to attend the nightly Ceremony of
tours. Check for occasional organ recitals. Mon-Sat This breathtaking bridge, designed in 1884, is
the Keys, which dates back to 1340 (tickets are free).
8.30am-4.30pm. Adult 18; child 8. www.stpauls. one of Londons most famous landmarks. You can To 20 Oct: Defend the Tower. Live historical
co.uk. St Pauls Churchyard, EC4M 8AD. tour the engine rooms with a knowledgeable re-enactment. Sun-Mon 10am-5.30pm; Tue-
T: 020-7246 8350. D9/10. Station: St Pauls. guide and do yoga on the glass walkways, 42m Sat 9am-5.30pm. Adult 21.50; child 9.70.
www.hrp.org.uk/tower-of-london. Tower Hill,
EC3N 4AB. T: 0844-482 7799. E11. Station:
Tower Hill.

Up at The O2
Prepare for an unforgettable 90-minute experience
which takes you on an uplifting expedition across
the roof of The O2. From the viewing platform at
the top you can enjoy spectacular 360-degree views
of the River Thames, Emirates Air Line, Canary
Wharf and beyond. Please check for times and
wheelchair access. From 30. www.theo2.co.uk.
The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463
2680. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

The Vault
Located under the old Coutts Bank, this vault was
originally used to protect the Queens treasures.
Now part of Hard Rock Cafe, its home to iconic
rock n roll memorabilia including the Gaultier
bustier from Madonnas Blond Ambition tour, and
musical instruments of the stars. Daily 11.30am-
10.30pm. Admission free. www.hardrock.com.
Hard Rock Cafe London, 150 Old Park Lane, W1K
1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

The View from The Shard


Ascend the tallest building in Western Europe
in a high-speed kaleidoscopic lift. At 309m, on
a clear day you can see as far as Windsor and if
you cant see four major landmarks you can visit
again for free. If you pre-book you can also do
yoga every Sat 8.30am (45). It also hosts silent
discos every Sat 10pm. Daily 10am-10pm. Advance
adult 25.95, child 19.95; on the day adult 30.95,
child 24.95. www.theviewfromtheshard.com.
32 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG. T: 0844-499 7111.
E10. Station: London Bridge.

Warner Bros. Studio Tour London


Explore behind the scenes of the legendary Harry
Potter films in The Making of Harry Potter tour.
Visitors can witness iconic sets including the Great
Hall, Hagrids Hut, Diagon Alley and a recreation
of Platform 9. Its a great insight into filmmaking.
To 27 Sep: Wizarding Wardrobes.
See thousands of costumes from Hogwarts
school robes to Hermiones Yule Ball gown. Please
check for times. Adult 39; child 31. Booking is
essential. www.wbstudiotour.co.uk. Studio Tour
Drive, Leavesden, Hertfordshire, WD25 7LS.
T: 0845-084 0900. Off map. Station: Euston to
Watford Junction, then shuttle bus.

Wellington Arch
Climb to the viewing galleries of this magnificent
arch for panoramic views over the Royal Parks and
Houses of Parliament, plus exhibitions. Joint tickets
available with Apsley House. Daily 10am-5pm.
Adult 4.70; child 2.80. www.english-heritage.
org.uk. Apsley Way, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7JZ.
T: 020-7930 2726. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

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SIGHTSEEING

Westminster Abbey MBNA Thames Clippers Thamesjet


Consecrated in 1065, this abbey is the crowning The fastest and most frequent fleet on the river, with Adrenaline-fuelled speedboat experience where
and burial site of most English monarchs, plus regular departures from major London piers. Oyster youll enjoy sightseeing, speed and aquabatics.
the wedding venue of William and Kate. See the cards are valid. Hop-on and hop-off adult 18.50; child Departs from Westminster Pier. From 11am. Adult
spectacular paintings, stained-glass windows 9.25. www.thamesclippers.com. T: 020-7001 2200. from 39; child from 29. www.thamesjet.com.
and monumental sculptures. It also houses Poets Departure points vary. T: 020-7740 0400.
Corner, the burial place of Charles Dickens and Thames River Services
other famous writers. Mon-Sat, please check This hop-on, hop-off service with live commentary
for times. Adult 22; child 9. www.westminster- departs from Westminster Pier to Greenwich/ TOURS & GUIDED WALKS
abbey.org. 20 Deans Yard, SW1P 3PA. T: 020-7222 Thames Barrier 10am-4pm; from St Katharines Big Bus Tours
5152. F7. Station: Westminster/St Jamess Park. to Greenwich/Thames Barrier 10.20pm-4.20pm. Daily sightseeing trips aboard a fleet of open-top
Check for prices (35 per cent online discount double-decker buses. Tickets are valid for 24 hours.
WWT London Wetland Centre
Mon-Fri). www.thamesriverservices.london. A one-day orientation tour includes three walking
This 104-acre wildlife reserve has a Waters Edge
Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A tours. Adult 35; child 18. www.bigbustours.com.
Caf overlooking lakes, ponds and gardens which
are home to more than 100 species of rare and 2JH. T: 020-7930 4097. F8. Station: Westminster. Departure points vary. T: 020-7808 6753.
wild birds. Otters are fed daily at 11am and 2pm.
Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult 12.26; child 6.75.
www.wwt.org.uk. Queen Elizabeths Walk, SW13
9WT. T: 020-8409 4400. Off map. Station: Barnes. WINNER OF THE NOMINEE FOR
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spectacular variety of themed events and


activities, as the City celebrates its Roman
heritage during the Londinium festival. Check
for times and prices. www.visitlondon.com.

Open House London


16-17 Sep: This annual city-wide architecture and
design festival grants you access to more than 750
buildings, many of which are not usually open to
the public (p. 20). www.openhouselondon.org.uk.

RIVER TRIPS
Circular Cruise Westminster
Circular Cruise Westminster operates a hop-on
hop-off sightseeing service from Westminster Pier.
Boats depart every 40 minutes for Embankment,
Festival, Bankside and St Katharines Piers (for Tower
of London), returning non-stop to Westminster.
To 3 Sep 11am-6pm; from 4 Sep 11am-5pm. Adult
single 10, return 14; child single 5, return 7.
www.circularcruise.london. Westminster Pier,
Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7936
2033. F8. Station: Westminster.

City Cruises
Daily guided sightseeing tours on the Thames
between Westminster, Waterloo, Tower and
Greenwich piers. River Red Rover is an all-day
hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service. Thames
Circular Cruise is a 50-minute sightseeing service
from Tower Pier or Bankside Pier to Westminster
and back. London Showboat cabaret cruise departs
from Westminster Pier and includes a meal with
live music Fri-Sat. Other cruises available. Please
check for times and prices. www.citycruises.com.
Departure points vary. T: 020-7740 0400.

London Duck Tours


Ideal if youre keen for an amphibious
adventure. See some of Londons best-loved sights TAKE AN INTERACTIVE JOURNEY THROUGH LONDONS SPOOKY HISTORY
on land before a thrilling splashdown on the River

TheLondonBridgeExperience.com
Thames. Adult 27; child 19. www.londonduck
tours.co.uk. 55 York Rd, SE1 7NJ. T: 020-7928 3132.
F8. Station: Waterloo.

London Eye River Cruise The London Bridge Experience, 2-4 Tooley Street, London Bridge, London SE1 2SY
Live commentary on a 40-minute sightseeing river
cruise. Daily 10.45am-7.45pm. Adult 13.15; child
6.50. Discounted joint tickets with the London
Eye available. www.londoneye.com. London Eye FREE audio guides available
Pier, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. E8.
Station: Waterloo.

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SIGHTSEEING

Big Bus Walking Tours Golden Tours


Historic and royal guided walk. Please check for From day excursions to overnight city breaks, the
prices. Daily 11am. www.bigbustours.com. Depart London experts offer quality tour experiences from
from Big Bus stop six, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. London to popular locations such as Bath and
T: 020-7808 6753. Station: Charing Cross. Leeds Castle. The company offers an unrivalled
CAPITAL TAXI TOURS LTD range of tours and services. Please check for times
CAPITAL
The TAXItaxi
family friendly TOURS LTD
tour company Billingsgate Roman House & Baths
and prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure
WeThe
meet as strangers
family andtour
friendly taxi partcompany
as friends Beneath the cobbled pathways of the Square Mile
We meet as strangers and part as friends points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.
lies a rich Roman history thats survived 2,000 years
of building, fires and bombings. Lower Thames Golden Tours Open-Top Bus Tours
Street is home to one of Roman Londons most See the sights aboard an open-top bus. Live guided
Londons oldest and best Taxi Tour
fascinating remains Billingsgate Roman Bathhouse, (Essential Tour) or multilingual audio commentary
company
Londons offers more
oldest andthan
best200
Taxitours
Tourof
London
company and
offers the countryside
more than 200 tours of which was discovered in 1848. Explore this insight (all routes) tours let you hop-on and hop-off.
Sit backLondon
and relax
andasthe
your Registered driver
countryside into ancient life in the City on a 45-minute guided One-day, 24-hour and 48-hour tickets. Please
Guide
Sit back takes
and you
relax asaround in an Iconic
your Registered driver tour and discover the remains of the Roman check for prices. www.goldentours.com.
Licensed
Guide London
takes you aroundBlack Taxi
in an Iconic Bathhouse. Adult 8; child 6. Please check for Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.
Licensed London Black Taxi times. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. 101 Lower
Choose from 3,4,5,and 8 hour London tours. Thames St, EC3R 6DL. E11. Station: Tower Hill. GoToMidtown Tours
Besidesfrom
Choose the 3,4,5,and
main attractions
8 hour explore
Londonparts
tours. More than 100 themed 45-minute free tours around
of London
Besides tourists
the main never get
attractions to see.
explore parts Capital Taxi Tours Bloomsbury and Holborn. Most walks do not require
of London tourists never get to see. A Blue Badge or City of London qualified guide
General Sightseeing tours, Themed tours booking. 10am & 1pm walks start at the orange
drives you around in a taxi for up to five people.
include
General Harry Potter, Beatles,
Sightseeing James tours
tours, Themed Bond, information kiosk outside Holborn Tube station.
Choose from London tours by day or night, trips
Dr Who,Harry
include JackPotter,
the Ripper, Ghost
Beatles, tours,
James plus
Bond, www.bee-midtown.org. 88-94 Kingsway, WC2B 6AA.
outside the city and themed tours including
Dr Who, Jack the many more.
Ripper, Ghost tours, plus T: 020-7078 7077. D7/8. Station: Holborn.
a Doctor Who one with locations from the TV
many more.
Countryside tours including Stonehenge, series, and one for TVs Downton Abbey fans. Jack the Ripper Tours
Oxford, Bath,
Countryside Windsor,
tours Downton
including Abbey
Stonehenge, Prices vary and are per taxi. www.capitaltaxi Blue Badge Guide Richard Jones of London Walking
Oxford, Bath, Windsor, Downton Abbey tours.co.uk. T: 020-8590 3621. Tours devised these popular two-hour walks,
City of London Guides Walks offering an intriguing look at the serial killer Jack
A variety of themed walks not offered by other the Ripper. Numbers are limited in order to give
Call us on companies, focusing on everything from Fleet participants a better experience. Booking essential.
Call us
07970911223 on
/ 02085903621 Daily 7pm from outside Exit 4 of Aldgate East. 10.
Street the home of journalism to Smithfield
07970911223
5 star service/ 02085903621
and reviews Market and City gardens. Free-12. www.cityof www.jack-the-ripper-tour.com. T: 020-8530 8443.
5 star service and reviews
www.capitaltaxitours.co.uk londonguides.com. Departure points vary. Off map. Station: Aldgate East.
www.capitaltaxitours.co.uk
Evan Evans London Chocolate Tours
The oldest and largest sightseeing company in Sample truffles and ganaches in Mayfairs finest
London has been accompanying visitors on city chocolatiers on this two-hour tour. Booking
tours and out-of-town excursions since 1930. Visit essential. Sun 12.30pm. 15 for Where London
everywhere from Warwick Castle to Bath. Check readers (usually 39). Departs from The Ritz
for times and prices. www.evanevanstours.com. London by Green Park. www.tourguides.org.uk.
Departure points vary. T: 020-7950 1777. Green Park Tube station. T: 020-8526 7755. E6.

WINDSOR CASTLE PETER PACKER/THE ROYAL COLLECTION/HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II

She came, she saw, she conquered


A L M A -TADEM A Visitors to Windsor Castle shouldnt miss Conquer the Tower (to 30 Sep; p. 35), a daily
AT HOME IN ANTIQUITY guided tour of the fortress 800-year-old Round Tower. Your guide will take you up the
LEIGHTON HOUSE MUSEUM 200 steps to the top of the landmark, from which youll have a close-up view of the castles
flagpole, which flies the Royal Standard when the Queen is in residence, and the Union
7 JULY 29 OCTOBER 2017
Flag when shes elsewhere. You can also enjoy views of parkland, the River Thames and
Windsor town, while in the distance you can spot Londons skyline and neighbouring
counties. During your visit, explore the castle, which is home to the medieval St Georges
Leighton House Museum Chapel, and the state and royal apartments, which are arranged around a quadrangle.
Exhibition Organiser Exhibition Sponsor

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SIGHTSEEING

The London Helicopter Tour Royal Opera House departures from outside The Ritz hotel. Tours
Discover the capital from the unique perspective of This is one of the worlds leading opera venues last 90 minutes. Daily 7.30pm, 8pm, 8.30pm,
a helicopter, with its uninterrupted views. Departing 9.15pm, 9.45pm & 10.15pm. Adult 18; child 10.
and also home to the Royal Ballet company.
from Londons only heliport, glide above the www.seelondonbynight.com. 150 Piccadilly, W1J
Backstage Tour. Tour behind the scenes for an
Thames, taking in iconic landmarks including the 9BR. T: 020-7183 4744. E6. Station: Green Park.
insight into the venues history, where you may
Tower of London, St Pauls and The Shard. Choose even catch a production in rehearsal. Most days Shakespeares Globe
from the 12-minute Buzz, 18-minute Sights or 10.30am, 12.30pm & 2.30pm, but please check. This reconstruction of Shakespeares original
30-minute Max tour or spook yourself with an Adult 12; child 8.50. www.royaloperahouse.org. Elizabethan Globe Theatre has the citys only
18-minute open door ride (400 per person). Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: thatched roofs, while the Sam Wanamaker
Prices start at 150 per seat for a shared tour. Playhouse is a candle lit performance space.

Covent Garden.
www.thelondonhelicopter.com. The POD Building, Daily, please check for times. Exhibition
Bridges Court, SW11 2RE. T: 020-7887 2626. See London by Night Tour and Globe theatre tour adult 16; child 9.
Off map. Station: Clapham Junction. Take a bus ride around the West End and City in www.shakespearesglobe.com. 21 New Globe
the evening for a different view of the capital, with Walk, Bankside, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7902 1400.
London Horror Tours
many
of buildings
its iconic illuminated. Regular E10. Station: Blackfriars.
Be spooked by ghost stories and tales of Jack the
Ripper, Sweeney Todd and the Krays on tours run
by Dr Jack, an actor, entertainer and former guide.
Please visit its Facebook page for more information,
and call for times and prices. Departure points
vary. T: 07722-247 660.

London Literary Pub Crawl

ORDER, ORDER
See where the giants of the London literary world
ate, drank and worked. This unique tour is artist-
led and arranged by the not-for-profit charity, the
Maverick Theatre Company. Starting in Fitzrovia
and ending in Soho, it includes pubs and bars
associated with British classic and contemporary
writers. Tickets 24. www.londonliterarypub
crawl.com. 12 Fouberts Place, off Carnaby St, W1F
7PA. T: 020-8090 5082. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Book your tour today
London Tailored Tours
Private tours for small groups, run by Londoners.
Themed tours include Borough Market, fashion
and Brick Lane. Please check for times and prices.
www.londontailoredtours.com. T: 020-3289 0542.

London Walks
Londons oldest walking tour company offers
more than 300 walks. Each takes around two
hours; departure points vary and theres no need
to book. As well as Jack the Ripper, Harry Potter
and ghost walks, you can join a Secret Village walk
around St Pauls and Clerkenwell. Adult 10; child
free when accompanied by an adult. Mon 2.30pm.
www.walks.com. T: 020-7624 3978.

Original London Sightseeing Walk


Walks depart daily from the Original London
Visitor Centre. Choose from Changing the Guard
at 10am), RocknRoll at 1pm and Jack the Ripper at
WINDSOR CASTLE PETER PACKER/THE ROYAL COLLECTION/HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II

3.30pm (from Tower Hill Station). 9.50 per walk, or


free with an Original London Sightseeing Tour. An
Explore Walks Pass, which grants access to all three
walks over a 48-hour period, costs 19. www.the
originaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL.
T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

The Original Tour


With more than 65 years experience, these live
and multilingual open-top guided bus tours take
you to the citys best attractions, allowing you to
hop-on and off at more than 80 stops. Its original
24-hour tour includes three free walking tours and
a Thames River cruise pass. 24-hour adult 32, child
15; 48-hour adult 42, child 20. www.theoriginal
tour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, Trafalgar Square, SW1Y
5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

Royal Albert Hall Tours


Take a one-hour Grand Tour of this Victorian
concert hall. Tours take place most days
throughout the year, but please call for times.
020 7219 4114
Adult 13.75; child 6.75. www.royalalberthall.com.
Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7959 0558.
F4. Station: South Kensington.

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SIGHTSEEING

Wembley Tours
Go behind the scenes at this famous football
stadium and concert venue. The 75-minute tour
takes you inside the dressing rooms and through
the players tunnel. Have your photo taken with a
replica of the FA Cup. From 10am; check for dates.
Adult 20; child 12. www.wembleystadium.com/
wembley-tours. Wembley Stadium, HA9 0WS.
T: 0800-169 9933. Off map. Station: Wembley Park.

Westways Carriage Horses


Get collected from your hotel and experience the
sights from the comfort of a horse-drawn carriage.
475 per carriage. www.westwayscarriagehorses.
co.uk. T: 020-8572 3155.

Yonda
Youll feel like a local as you drive a car around
famous sights and little-known streets. The car
is fitted with technology that gives you directions
on a satnav and commentary. Congestion Charge
is included in the price. 60 per 90-minute tour.
www.goyonda.com. T: 020-3621 5662.

OUT OF TOWN
Ashmolean Museum of Art
and Archaeology
Britains first public museum dates back to 1683,
when politician Elias Ashmole left his collection of
antiquities and curiosities to the University of Oxford.
See archaeological artefacts, pre-Raphaelite
paintings, Egyptian mummies and Oliver Cromwells
death mask. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Free admission,
charges for special exhibitions. www.ashmolean.org.
Beaumont St, Oxford, OX1 2PH. T: 01865-278000.
Off map. Station: Paddington to Oxford.

Blenheim Palace
London looks amazing, See three centuries of treasures in magnificent
state rooms at this Baroque palace, the birthplace
beautifully lit up at night of Sir Winston Churchill. The palace is set in 2,100
See acres of Capability Brown parkland and formal
gardens. Palace daily 10.30am-5.30pm; park daily
By Night 9am-6pm; formal gardens daily 10.30am-6pm. Adult
24.90; child 13.90. www.blenheimpalace.com.
Woodstock, Oxfordshire, OX20 1PP. T: 01993-
810530. Off map. Paddington to Oxford, then bus S3.

Hampton Court Palace


Once home to King Henry VIII, this Tudor palace
and maze is set in 60 acres of parkland. The Magic
Garden. Childrens play area with sections
representing myths, legends, stories and objects
that can be found at Hampton Court. Palace, formal
gardens and maze daily 10am-6pm. Adult 20.90;
child 10.45. www.hrp.org.uk. East Molesey, Surrey,
KT8 9AU. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station:
Waterloo to Hampton Court.
Departing daily from Green Park Leeds Castle
Fairytale 900-year-old castle with a moat, gardens
bus stop next to the Ritz Hotel and parkland. Lose yourself in the yew maze and
at 19:30, 20:00, 20:30, 21:15, 21:45 and 22:15 see 100 species of birds in the aviary. Grounds &
gardens daily 10am-6pm; Castle daily 10.30am-
Spectacular live guided Adult - 18 5.30pm. Adult 24.90; child 16.90. www.leeds-
castle.com. Maidstone, Kent, ME17 1PL. T: 01622-
tours of London by night Child - 10 765 400. Off map. Station: Victoria to Bearsted.

Osterley Park and House


Private tours available for groups day or night Explore this beautiful country home decorated as
it would have been in the 1780s, then stroll around

Tel: 0844 504 3285 +44 (0)20 7183 4744 its formal gardens or stop for a snack in the stable
tearoom. Regular after-dark tours. House 11am-
5pm; garden 10am-5pm. Adult 10.90; child 5.45.
www.seelondonbynight.com www.nationaltrust.org.uk. Jersey Rd, Isleworth,
Middlesex, TW7 4RB. T: 020-8232 5050. Off map.
Station: Osterley/Isleworth.

34 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017

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borough Castle

Hillsborough Castle
Book
Palace of Holyroodhouse online to
The Queens official residence in Scotland stands
save
at the end of Edinburghs Royal Mile, against the
spectacular backdrop of Arthurs Seat. Highlights
include Mary, Queen of Scots chamber. Daily
9.30am-6pm. Adult 12.50; child 7.50. www.royal
collection.org.uk. Canongate, The Royal Mile,
Edinburgh, EH8 8DX. T: 0303-123 7306. Off map.
Station: Edinburgh Waverley, then a 15-minute walk.

Stonehenge
The worlds most famous stone circle and a World
Heritage Site, Stonehenge is more than 5,000 years
old. With obscure Neolithic origins, it is perfectly
aligned with the rising sun at the solstice. English
Heritage members get exclusive early-morning
tours. The visitor centre has an exhibition, shop
and caf. Daily 9.30am-7pm. Adult 16.50; child
9.90. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Amesbury,
Wiltshire, SP4 7DE. T: 0870-333 1181. Off map.
Station: Waterloo to Salisbury, then bus or taxi.

Syon Park
This stunning Palladian mansion set in parkland is
home to the Duke of Northumberland. Dont miss
the incredible interiors, Grade I-listed landscape
gardens and Great Conservatory. Please check for
times and prices. www.syonpark.co.uk. Syon Park,
Brentford, Middlesex, TW8 8JF. T: 020-8560 0882. ESCAPE
THIS SUMMER
Off map. Station: Waterloo to Syon Lane.

Waddesdon Manor
Renaissance-style chateau built in the 19th century. AT HAMPTON COURT PALACE
Magnificent house and wine cellars, plus gardens
and aviary. Please check for times and prices. For a great family day out, lose yourself in one of the
www.waddesdonmanor.org. Near Aylesbury, worlds oldest mazes then run wild in our Magic Garden.
Buckinghamshire, HP18 0JH. T: 01296-653226.
Off map. Station: Marylebone to Aylesbury.

Warwick Castle
Built by William the Conqueror in 1068, this
castle is now a family-friendly experience with
landscaped gardens designed by Capability
Brown. Please check for times and prices.
www.warwick-castle.com. Warwick, Warwickshire,
CV34 6AH. Off map. Station: Warwick.

Watts Gallery Artists Village


An Arts and Crafts gem in the Surrey Hills, with
Victorian paintings and sculptures. Visit the Tea
Shop, then wander to the Watts Chapel. Pottery
Open Studios. Tue-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult 9.50
(Tue 4.75); child free. Down Lane, Compton,
Surrey, GU3 1DQ. T: 01483-810235. Off map.

ONE OF THE BEST


Station: Waterloo to Guildford, then bus or taxi.

Windsor Castle
The Queens weekend home includes glorious
state apartments furnished with artworks by
Rembrandt, Rubens and Canaletto. Changing
THINGS IVE EVER DONE
the Guard alternate days 11am except Sun. TripAdvisor Review
To 30 Sep: Conquer the Tower. Daily
guided tour of the fortress 800-year-old Round
Tower (p. 32). Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult 20.50;
child 12. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Windsor, HELICOPTER SIGHTSEEING TOURS
Berkshire, SL4 1NJ. T: 0303-123 7304. Off map.
Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Central
or Windsor & Eton Riverside.
Advance booking only at
Woburn Abbey and Gardens
Set in a 3,000 acre deer park, this historic house www.thelondonhelicopter.com
has been home to the earls and dukes of Bedford
for nearly 400 years. Tour the house to find out more
about its family history, art and antiques. Daily 11am- Call 020 7887 2626 or ask
5pm. Abbey, gardens and deer park adult 17;
child 8.50. www.woburnabbey.co.uk. Woburn, your concierge about booking
Bedfordshire, MK17 9WA. T: 01525-290333.
Off map Station: St Pancras to Flitwick.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE
Clockwise from this image: The Tournament in Trafalgar
Square by Jaime Hayn; Perspectives by John Pawson;
Textile Field by Bouroullec; Areaware at Designjunction

Craft in the capital


London is the design capital of the world, as demonstrated this month at the London Design Festival. The annual
extravaganza spans numerous locations and showcases hundreds of exhibitors, writes Emma Levine

LONDON DESIGN FESTIVAL IMAGES COURTESY OF LONDON DESIGN FESTIVAL; AREAWARE COURTESY OF DESIGNJUNCTION
When the police are almost needed at an As part of the London Design Festival, attracting thousands of visitors, from architects

JEAN-MICHEL BASQUIATS UNTITLED, 1982 COURTESY OF MUSEUM BOIJMANS VAN BEUNINGEN, ROTTERDAM THE
art installation in Trafalgar Square due Designjunction (21-24 Sep) brings cutting- to a design-savvy public. On display youll gaze
to the crowds enthusiasm, its an event edge products and interior design to Kings at contemporary examples of lighting, furniture
worth talking about. The incident in question Cross. In five sites across this renovated and conceptual installations leaving you
was during the London Design Festival neighbourhood, including Granary Square wondering if you can find space in your home
in 2006, when Tom Dixon gave away and Cubitt House, its a fusion of global for that chic Nordic lampshade or whimsical
500 of his polystyrene chairs to the public. furniture and technology brands alongside sculpture from Italy. www.londondesignfair.co.uk
The prestigious event (16-24 Sep) celebrates pop-up shops theres plenty for everyone. Look out for more displays in Londons
its 15th birthday this year, and continues to Each eye-catching piece forms a juxtaposition
museums and galleries that are part of
blend the interests of Londoners and visitors with its surroundings. At canalside Granary
the festival, including special events at the
along with the design industry. It takes place Square, an installation of Turkish ceramics in the
Victoria and Albert Museum (p. 40) and
across eight districts, from Mayfair to Islington. central fountain space comprises pieces by
Ceramics in the City at The Geffrye (p. 38).
Its director Ben Evans says: People have more than 30 ceramic designers. If you want
As London Mayor Sadiq Khan says:
established, run, and successfully sold a souvenir, check out The Canopy, a pop-up
London Design Festival is a fantastic event
their businesses via the festival and our venue offering tempting products from
commissioning process for young designers premium retail brands alongside emerging which brings together designers from
showcases their work early on in their careers. design labels. www.thedesignjunction.co.uk across the globe and underlines London
It has commissioned designers to construct a Over in the creative hub of east London, as a cultural powerhouse.
temporary structure: Zaha Hadid was among The Old Truman Brewery hosts
the first, who designed her polished concrete another offshoot of the festival: the
Urban Nebula for the Southbank Centre. This London Design Fair (21-24 Sep).
year, Villa Walala is a huge, colourful installation Bringing together 500 exhibitors
in Broadgate by textile designer Camille from 28 countries, its a vast array of
Walala, complete with stress squeeze balls. established brands, independent
www.londondesignfestival.com designers and exhibitions,

36 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017

L SE .indd 3 17/0 /2017 1 :07


FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (Tube) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online
discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81

MUSEUMS Churchill War Rooms


Fortified secret bunker where the prime minister,
The Fan Museum
Museum dedicated to the art of the fan, with
Arsenal Stadium Tours & Museum Sir Winston Churchill, worked during World War II. examples from the 12th century to the present day.
Football fans can enjoy a self-guided audio tour for Discover his life in the Cabinet War Rooms. Daily To 16 Sep: All Creatures Great &
a sneak peek inside the players changing rooms 9.30am-6pm. Adult 17.25; child (five-15) 8.60. Small. A variety of fans, from the 1700s onwards,
and tunnel and the Physio Room, or a Legends www.iwm.org.uk. Clive Steps, King Charles St, SW1A all decorated with animals. Enjoy afternoon tea
Tour led by ex-Arsenal players. Both include a 2AQ. T: 020-7930 6961. F7. Station: Westminster. in the muralled orangery. Tue-Sat 11am-5pm; Sun
visit to the museum. Self-guided tours Mon-Sat noon-5pm. Adult 4; child (seven-16) 3. www.the
9.30am-6pm; Sun 10am-4pm; Legends tour from Clink Prison Museum fanmuseum.org.uk. 12 Crooms Hill, SE10 8ER.
11am (check for dates). Museum open Mon-Sat Former prison dating back to 1144, with hands-on T: 020-8305 1441. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.
10.30am-6.30pm; Sun 10.30am-4.30pm; check exhibits that reveal Londons penal past. Its said to
for closures. Self-guided: adult 20, child 10. be haunted by former inmates; check for Haunted Fashion and Textile Museum
Legend: adult from 40, child from 20.75. Happenings events. Daily 10am-9pm. Adult 7.50; Highlighting contemporary fashion, textiles and
Museum only: adult 10, child 7. www.arsenal. child 5.50. www.clink.co.uk. 1 Clink St, SE1 9DG. jewellery from 1947 to the present day. To 1 Oct:
com/tours. Emirates Stadium, Hornsey Rd, N5 1BU. T: 020-7403 0900. E10. Station: London Bridge. The World of Anna Sui. See more than 100 looks from
T: 020-7619 5000. Off map. Station: Arsenal. the American designer. Tue-Sat 11am-6pm; Thur
Design Museum 11am-8pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult 9; child (under 12)
Bank of England Museum Leading museum of design and architecture. free. www.ftmlondon.org. 83 Bermondsey St, SE1
Explore the story of the Bank of England from Permanent display Designer Maker User. 3XF. T: 020-7407 8664. F11. Station: London Bridge.
1694 to the present day. Stories from the City: The To 24 Sep: Hella Jongerius: Breathing
Bank of England Through Literature. Celebrating Colour. Installation-based exhibition. To 15 Oct: Florence Nightingale Museum
the launch of the new Jane Austen 10 note. California. Journey from 1960s counter-culture Located in St Thomas Hospital, learn about the
From 4 Sep: Till Times Last Sand A History of to Silicon Valleys tech world. Daily 10am-6pm work of the pioneering 19th-century British nurse
the Bank of England. Featuring original documents (last entry 5pm). Fri 1 Sep 10am-8pm. Admission and health reformer, known as The Lady with
and photos from 1694 to 2013. Mon-Fri 10am- free; charges for special exhibitions. www.design the Lamp. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult 7.50; child
5pm; closed bank hols. Admission free. www.bank museum.org. 224-238 Kensington High St, W8 (five-15) 3.80. www.florence-nightingale.co.uk.
ofengland.co.uk/museum. Threadneedle St, 6AG. T: 020-3862 5900. Off map. Station: High 2 Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1 7EW. T: 020-7620 0374.
Street Kensington. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.
EC2R 8AH. T: 020-7601 5545. D10. Station: Bank.

Benjamin Franklin House


This charming 18th-century townhouse was the
last remaining home of the American diplomat,
inventor and Founding Father, with tours by
costumed actors. 16-17 Sep: Open House London.
Special weekend tours, part of the city-wide festival
(p. 20). Architectural tours Mon; historical shows
Wed-Sun (check for times). Shows: adult 8; under
16s free. Mon tours: adult 6; under 16s free. www.
benjamin franklinhouse.org. 36 Craven St, WC2N
5NF. T: 020-7925 1405. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

The British Museum


LONDON DESIGN FESTIVAL IMAGES COURTESY OF LONDON DESIGN FESTIVAL; AREAWARE COURTESY OF DESIGNJUNCTION

An unrivalled collection of antiquities, plus


regular talks, evening events and performances.
From 14 Sep: Scythians: Warriors of Ancient
JEAN-MICHEL BASQUIATS UNTITLED, 1982 COURTESY OF MUSEUM BOIJMANS VAN BEUNINGEN, ROTTERDAM THE
ESTATE OF JEAN-MICHEL BASQUIAT. LICENSED BY ARTESTAR, NEW YORK. PHOTO: STUDIO TROMP, ROTTERDAM

Siberia. Exhibits exploring this nomadic tribe


include mummified horses (p. 38). To 15 Oct: Desire,
Love, Identity: Exploring LGBTQ Histories. Telling the
story of gay culture. Sat-Thur 10am-5.30pm; Fri
10am-8.30pm. Admission free; charges for special
exhibitions. www.britishmuseum.org. Great
Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8299. D7/8.
Station: Tottenham Court Road/Russell Square.

The Cartoon Museum


British cartoons, caricature and comic art (p. 16).
Tue-Sun 10.30am-5.30pm. Adult 7; child free.
www.cartoonmuseum.org. 35 Little Russell St,
WC1A 2HH. T: 020-7580 8155. D8. Station: Holborn.

Charles Dickens Museum


Former home of Victorian novelist Dickens, where
he wrote classics including Oliver Twist. Tue-Sun
10am-5pm. Adult 9; child (6-16) 4. www.dickens
A New York state of mind
museum.com. 48 Doughty St, WC1N 2LX. In an age of anti-establishment activism, Basquiat: Boom for Real at Barbican Art
T: 020-7405 2127. C8. Station: Russell Square. Gallery (from 21 Sep; p. 42) is both poignant and timely. The Brooklyn-born self-taught
Chelsea FC Stadium Museum & Tours graffiti artist Jean-Michel Basquiat, who died tragically aged 27 in 1988, thrived in
Interactive tour of Chelsea FC. Tours daily, every Manhattans post-punk art scene. His vibrant, raw imagery from drawing with his own
30 minutes 10am-3pm; check for closures and blood to collaging old baseball cards won the admiration of fellow artists, including
monthly ex-players tours (from 70). Museum
Andy Warhol, with whom Basquiat collaborated. Basquiat created murals for nightclubs,
daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult 22 (museum only 11);
child 15 (9). www.chelseafc.com/tours. Stamford and huge canvasses reflecting music, film and TV and its relationship to society. This long-
Bridge, SW6 1HS. T: 0871-984 1955. Off map. overdue exhibition, the first UK retrospective in 20 years, brings together 100 of his works.
Station: Fulham Broadway.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

The Geffrye Leighton House Museum Museum of London


Formerly the Geffrye Museum (p. 36). Historic, The restored former home of Frederic, Lord The worlds largest urban history museum has
restored 18th-century almshouses with rooms Leighton is a museum of his life and work. To 29 Oct: nine galleries, including Roman and Medieval
recreating English interiors from 1600 to the present Alma-Tadema: At Home in Antiquity. Exhibition of London, that transport you through the capitals
day. Almshouse tours look at the lives of Londons works by the Dutch painter. Wed-Mon 10am-5.30pm. tumultuous history to the present day with
poor and elderly in former times. Check for dates Adult 14; child (12-17) 12. www.rbkc.gov.uk. thousands of exhibits. The City is Ours looks at the
and times. Tour adult 4; under 16s free. Tue-Sun 12 Holland Park, W14 8LZ. T: 020-7602 3316. challenges of urban living. Check for regular family
& bank hols, 10am-5pm. Admission free, charges Off map. Station: Kensington Olympia. events. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges
for tours and special exhibitions. www.geffrye- for special exhibitions and walking tours. www.
museum.org.uk. 136 Kingsland Rd, E2 8EA. London Film Museum museum oflondon.org.uk. 150 London Wall, EC2Y
T: 020-7739 9893. Off map. Station: Hoxton. Bond in Motion is the largest official exhibition of 5HN. T: 020-7001 9844. D10. Station: Barbican.
James Bond vehicles that feature in the renowned
The Guards Museum film series. Sun-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat 10am-7pm. Museum of London Docklands
Learn about the history, stories and regimental Adult 14.50; child 9.50. www.londonfilmmuseum. The history of the River Thames, from its time as a
heritage of the five regiments of the Foot Guards com. 45 Wellington St, WC2E 7BN. T: 020-7202 7042. Roman thoroughfare to the areas regeneration.
the Grenadier, Coldstream, Scots, Irish and E8. Station: Covent Garden. To 3 Sep: Tunnel: The Archaeology of
Welsh Guards which today watch over the Royal Crossrail. See archaeological objects unearthed by
Palaces. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult 6; child free. London Transport Museum Crossrail, Europes largest infrastructure project.
www.theguardsmuseum.com. Wellington Barracks, Located in the Grade II-listed Flower Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free, charges for
Birdcage Walk, SW1E 6HQ. T: 020-7414 3271. D5. Market, this museum displays the story of Londons special exhibitions. www.museumoflondon.org.uk.
Station: St Jamess Park/Westminster. transport system. Highlights include red buses, T: 020-7001 9844. Off map. Station: Canary Wharf/
the worlds first Underground steam train and a West India Quay.
Horniman Museum & Gardens padded cell train carriage dating back to the 1890s.
See the collection of the Victorian tea To 3 Sep: Sounds of the City. The National Maritime Museum
trader, Frederick John Horniman, including an best 100 entries from the Prize for Illustration, The worlds largest maritime museum is spread
aquarium. To 29 Oct: The Robot Zoo. Amazing looking at the sounds in otherwise quiet spaces over several sites, originally part of a 19th-century
animals are recreated in robot form to reveal their in UK cities. Fri 11am-6pm; Sat-Thur 10am-6pm. school for seafarers children. Galleries display
inner workings. Daily 10.30am-5.30pm. Admission Adult 17.50; child free. www.ltmuseum.co.uk. equipment, artwork and ships figureheads, plus
free; charges for aquarium and special exhibitions. Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB. T: 020-7379 the interactive Great Map revealing stories from
www.horniman.ac.uk. 100 London Rd, SE23 3PQ. 6344. E8. Station: Covent Garden. maritime history. Dont miss the replica of Admiral
T: 020-8699 1872. Off map. Station: Forest Hill. Nelsons HMS Victory in a bottle, and the uniform
Museum of Brands, Packaging he wore when fatally wounded. To 7 Jan 2018:
House of Illustration & Advertising Death in the Ice. Exploring the mystery of Sir John
The UKs only public gallery dedicated solely Fascinating insight into the evolution of iconic Franklin, whose ships were lost at sea while on an
to illustration was founded by Sir Quentin Blake. consumer brands over the past 200 years. Tue-Sat expedition to discover the North-West Passage in
From 22 Sep: Gerald Scarfe: Stage and Screen. & bank hols 10am-6pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult 9; 1845. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for
Little-known production designs by the political child (seven-16) 5. www.museumofbrands.com. events and exhibitions. www.rmg.co.uk. Romney
cartoonist (p. 14). To 1 Oct: Quentin Blake: The Life 111-117 Lancaster Rd, W11 1QT. T: 020-7243 9611. Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map.
of Birds. Expressive drawings. Adult 7.50; child Off map. Station: Ladbroke Grove. Station: Greenwich/Cutty Sark.
4. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. www.houseofillustration.
org.uk. 2 Granary Square, N1C 4BH. T: 020-3696
2020. Off map. Station: Kings Cross St Pancras.
Top
Pick
Household Cavalry Museum
Go behind the scenes of the ceremonial duties
and roles of the Household Cavalry Regiments.

A GOLD PLAQUE OF A SCYTHIAN RIDER THE STATE HERMITAGE MUSEUM, ST PETERSBURG, 2017. PHOTO BY V TEREBENIN
Troopers with their horses work in the original
18th-century stables. Changing the Queens Life
Guard on Horse Guards Parade Mon-Sat 11am,
Sun 10am. Museum daily 10am-6pm. Check for
closures. Adult 7; child 5. www.householdcavalry
museum.co.uk. Horse Guards, Whitehall, SW1A 2AX.
T: 020-7930 3070. E7/8. Station: Westminster.

Imperial War Museum


Displays relating to global conflicts, particularly
those involving Britain, plus the Holocaust
Exhibition and art collection in the First World
War Galleries. To 26 Nov: Afghanistan: Reflections on
Helmand. Examining the British troops arrival and
subsequent conflict. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission
free; charges for some special exhibitions.
www.iwm.org.uk. Lambeth Rd, SE1 6HZ. T: 020-7416
5000. E5. Station: Lambeth North/Waterloo.

Jewish Museum
Documenting Jewish history and culture in Back in time
the UK from 1066 to today, including a lifelike Life in ancient Siberia was tough, with frozen terrain and fierce battles. No wonder then
representation of the East End immigrant quarter.
that the Scythians, a powerful nomadic tribe, were feared from southern Russia to
To 24 Sep: Amy Winehouse: A Family
Portrait. Discover the woman behind the music. China for their use of deadly weapons and horseback skills. Scythians: Warriors of
To 7 Sep: Sephardi Voice: Jews from Ancient Siberia at The British Museum (from 14 Sep; p. 37) shows off archaeological
North Africa, the Middle East and Iran. Audio-visual discoveries, literally frozen in time, which date back over 2,500 years. See gold jewellery
exhibition. Daily 10am-5pm; Fri 10am-2pm. and gold appliqu adorning clothes; clay death masks to resemble the tattooed faces
Adult 7.50; child (five-16) 3.50. www.jewish
museum.org.uk. Raymond Burton House, 129-131
of the deceased; and a 2,000-year-old cheese. From the exhibits, we can build a picture
Albert St, NW1 7NB. T: 020-7284 7384. Off map. of how the Scythians lived and even what, and how, they smoked.
Station: Camden Town.

38 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017

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Fall in
love with
Wimbledon
Want to feel the weight of the
Championships trophies? Interested in
watching an interactive ghost of John
McEnroe? Keen to cast your eyes over
Andy Murrays title-winning whites?

Then step inside the multi-dimensional journey


that is Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum. With
complimentary audio guides in 10 languages,
learn about the history of the sport, see the New Virtual Reality experience
Championship trophies, and the amazing new
Virtual Reality experience. You may also take Open Daily: 10:00am until 5:00pm
the behind the scenes tour of the grounds and Nearest Underground: Southfields
explore the home of tennis, including Centre The Museum Building, The All England Lawn Tennis
Court, for a truly inspirational visit. & Croquet Club, Church Road, Wimbledon, London SW19 5AE

Supported by T: 020 8946 6131 | wimbledon.com/museum

WL WIMBLEDON.indd 1
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28/02/2017 14:01
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Natural History Museum Sir John Soanes Museum V&A Museum of Childhood
Astounding collections, with exhibits This 19th-century townhouse and library was owned Charming museum with a national collection of
ranging from the Images of Nature gallery to by the architect Sir John Soane, which he left to the childhood objects dating back to the 16th century.
dinosaur skeletons and fossils. To 28 Feb 2018: nation in 1837. It houses his amazing collection from To 25 Feb 2018: Michael Morpurgo: A Lifetime in
Whales: Beneath the Surface. Major new exhibition around the world, including his own architectural Stories. Profiling one of Britains best-loved writers,
celebrating the arrival of Hope, the skeleton of drawings (view by appointment) and antiquities, displaying his manuscripts, photographs and a
a blue whale in Hintze Hall, exploring the huge plus Hogarth satirical artworks (p. 16). Please check model of Joey from the stage musical War Horse.
sea mammals, with skeletons, flippers and skulls. for tours. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm. Candlelight opening Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free. www.vam.
To 10 Sep: Wildlife Photographer first Tue every month, 6pm-9pm. Admission free. ac.uk/moc. Cambridge Heath Rd, E2 9PA.
of the Year. Annual exhibition with animal imagery. www.soane.org. 13 Lincolns Inn Fields, WC2A 3BP. T: 020-8983 5200. Off map. Station: Bethnal Green.
To 17 Sep: Sensational Butterflies. T: 020-7405 2107. D8. Station: Holborn.
Victoria and Albert Museum
Tropical butterfly house in the museum grounds. Somerset House The V&As outstanding collection of fine and
Daily 10am-5.50pm. Admission free; charges for This neo-classical 18th-century building on the applied arts spans 3,000 years and includes fashion,
special exhibitions. www.nhm.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, Thames houses the famous Courtauld Gallery, paintings, photographs and ceramics (p. 36).
SW7 5BD. T: 020-7942 5000. F4. Station: Embankment Galleries, cafs and restaurants. To 1 Oct: Pink Floyd: Their Mortal Remains.
South Kensington. To 17 Sep: Perfume. Major exhibition Spectacular audio-visual journey through the prog
that journeys through the history of contemporary rock bands music, design and staging. To 18 Feb
The Postal Museum
scents, through 10 well-known perfumes. 2018: Balenciago: Shaping Fashion. Exhibition about
This brand-new museum tells the story of
To 3 Sep: The Learned Society of Extra the designer Cristbal Balenciaga and his
the first social network, with thousands of exhibits
Ordinary Objects. Quirky collection of imaginary vision of female beauty and use of textiles.
exploring postal history, including old post boxes,
creations from contemporary designers. Galleries From 30 Sep: Opera: Passion, Power and Politics.
delivery bikes and uniforms, plus weapons used
daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for Exploring the culture of opera. Daily 10am-5.45pm.
to protect the delivery service. Take a ride on the
special exhibitions. www.somersethouse.org.uk. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions.
Mail Rail, the train in the underground tunnels Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 020-7845 4600. E8. Temple. www.vam.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 020-
that have been unearthed after 75 years. Daily 7942 2000. F4/5. Station: South Kensington.
10am-5pm. Adult 14.50; child (under six) 7.25. Twinings Museum
www.postalmuseum.org. 15-20 Phoenix Place, The flagship store of Twinings since 1706, with a Viktor Wynd Museum of Curiosities
WC1X 0DA. C8. Station: Russell Square tiny exhibition reflecting the companys 300-year A former shop turned cocktail bar with a tiny
history. See vintage teapots and caddies, plus the basement museum displaying weird and wonderful
Queens House original Royal Warrant signed by Queen Victoria items including taxidermy and erotica some
This 17th-century house, an architectural in 1837. Mon-Fri 9.30am-7.30pm; Sat 10am-6pm; explicit. Look out for unusual events and courses.
masterpiece by Inigo Jones, boasts 22 lavish rooms Sun 11am-6pm. Admission free. www.twinings. Wed-Sun noon-11pm. Admission 5. www.the
displaying a stunning fine art collection spanning co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. lasttuesdaysociety.org. 1 Mare St, E8 4RP. T: 020-
400 years, including works by Gainsborough and Station: Temple. 7998 3617. Off map. Station: Bethnal Green.
Hogarth. Dont miss the spiral Tulip Stairs, said
to be haunted, and the ornately painted Queens
Presence Chamber ceiling. Daily 10am-5pm.
Admission free. www.rmg.co.uk/queens-house.
Queens House, Romney Rd, SE10 9NF.
T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.

Royal Air Force Museum


National aviation museum focusing on the Royal

THE REHEARSAL BY DEGAS THE BURRELL COLLECTION, GLASGOW/CSG CIC GLASGOW MUSEUMS AND LIBRARIES COLLECTIONS
Air Force. There are more than 100 outstanding
aircraft on show, including a life-sized model of
the F-35 fighter jet, plus photographs and films.
Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.rafmuseum.
org.uk. Grahame Park Way, NW9 5LL. T: 020-8205
2266. Off map. Station: Colindale.

Science Museum
A huge museum dedicated to science,
technology and medical achievements, great for
kids, plus the IMAX theatre showing 3D science
films, plus a Red Arrows simulator. Permanent
galleries include Making the Modern World, with
Stevensons Rocket and Apollo 10 command.
To 1 Sep: Robots. Explore the
fascinating 500-year story of humanoid robots.
To 15 Jan 2018: Wounded: Conflict, Casualties and
Care. Commemorating the human impact of World
War I. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for
special exhibitions. www.sciencemuseum.org.uk.
Exhibition Rd, SW7 2DD. T: 0333-241 4000. F4.
Station: South Kensington. Making a pointe
Sherlock Holmes Museum While a leaking roof has forced a closure at The Burrell Collection, a Glasgow art gallery, the
Famous address dedicated to the fictional good news is that its works by Degas are on a debut world tour. Drawn in Colour: Degas
detective, where he lived with his friend and from the Burrell at The National Gallery (from 20 Sep; p. 42) brings together one of the
colleague Dr Watson from 1881 to 1904, which worlds greatest collections of the works by the French Impressionist, who was known for
this year celebrates 125 years. The Victorian house his pastels of ballet dancers. These works, acquired by 19th-century shipping magnate
has been maintained exactly as described in
Sir William Burrell, include his famous oil painting The Rehearsal (above), and the
author Sir Arthur Conan Doyles thrilling stories.
Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult 15; child (under 16) 10. delicate pastels of Woman at her Bath and Jockeys in the Rain horses were Degas
www.sherlock-holmes.co.uk. 221b Baker St, NW1 passion. This month marks the centenary of his death, but his legacy certainly lives on.
6XE. T: 020-7224 3688. A3. Station: Baker Street.

40 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017

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THE REHEARSAL BY DEGAS THE BURRELL COLLECTION, GLASGOW/CSG CIC GLASGOW MUSEUMS AND LIBRARIES COLLECTIONS

Where glass comes to life

5 minutes from The Shard


Photo: Pete Mueller

62-66 Bermondsey Street


londonglassblowing.co.uk

WhereLondonAprilAd.indd 1 14/03/2017 15:34


www.wheretraveler.com 41

WL SEPT M&G.indd 41 17/08/2017 12:01


MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

The Wallace Collection The Courtauld Gallery Guildhall Art Gallery


The former Wallace family home displays a Important European art collection, plus temporary Paintings collected by the City of London since the
beautiful collection of Rococo art, sculpture, exhibitions, housed in Somerset House. 17th century, including historic events and royalty.
furniture and suits of armour. Paintings include To 24 Sep: Bloomsbury Art & Design. It also houses the Roman Amphitheatre, discovered
Frank Hals Laughing Cavalier. From 27 Sep: El Early pieces by the Bloomsbury Group. in 1988 (free entry with gallery ticket). Mon-Sat
Greco to Goya Spanish Masterpieces from the Bowes To 17 Sep: William Henry Hunt: Country People. Hunts 10am-5pm; Sun noon-4pm. Admission free;
Museum. An exhibition of 300 years of paintings. watercolour depictions of rural figures. Daily 10am- charges for special exhibitions. www.cityoflondon.
Free tours on selected dates. Daily 10am-5pm. 6pm. Adult 7; child free. www.courtauld.ac.uk. gov.uk. Guildhall Yard, off Gresham St, EC2V 5AE.
Admission free. www.wallacecollection.org. Somerset House, Strand, WC2R 0RN. T: 020-7848 T: 020-7332 3700. D10. Station: St Pauls/Bank.
Hertford House, Manchester Square, W1U 3BN. 2526. E8. Station: Embankment.
ICA (Institute of Contemporary Arts)
T: 020-7563 9500. D6. Station: Bond Street. Dulwich Picture Gallery Changing exhibitions of contemporary art and
Wellcome Collection Englands first public art gallery, founded in 1811, installations, plus a caf/bar, bookshop and
Wellcome Trusts public venue houses hundreds houses a fine collection of Old Masters. To 8 Oct: arthouse cinema. Daily 11am-6pm; Thur 11am-9pm.
of fascinating artefacts relating to health and the Sargent: The Watercolours. Scenes of Europe captured Adult 1; child free. www.ica.org.uk. The Mall,
body. Includes permanent exhibitions Medicine Now by John Singer Sargent. To 8 Oct: Pavilion Lates. SW1Y 5AH. T: 020-7930 3647. E7. Station: Piccadilly
Evening events held on the lawns. Tue-Fri 10am-5pm, Circus/Charing Cross.
and Medicine Man, the personal collection of Sir
Sat-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult 7; child free; charges for
Henry Wellcome with antique medical equipment. The National Gallery
special exhibitions. www.dulwichpicturegallery.
From 7 Sep: Can Graphic Design Save Your Life? One of the worlds great galleries, with a huge
org.uk. Gallery Rd, SE21 7AD. T: 020-8693 5254.
Exploring the relationship between design and collection of works by masters from Monet to
Off map. Station: West Dulwich/North Dulwich.
the healthcare industry, including the history of da Vinci. Regular guided tours and events.
campaigns and digital teaching aids. Tue-Wed Estorick Collection From 20 Sep: Drawn in Colour: Degas from the
& Fri-Sat 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-10pm; Sun 11am- Charming gallery in a Grade II-listed Georgian Burrell. Works by the French Impressionist (p. 40).
6pm. Admission free. www.wellcomecollection.org. building, specialising in modern Italian art. To 8 Oct: Giovanni da Rimini. A classic 14th-century
183 Euston Rd, NW1 2BE. T: 020-7611 2222. C7. To 10 Sep: Franco Grignani: Art as masterpiece, Scenes from the Lives of the Virgin and
Station: Euston. Design. A look at the Italians swirling designs. other Saints, is displayed alongside other late-
Wed-Sat 11am-6pm; Sun noon-5pm. Adult Byzantine pieces. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-
Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum & Tours 6.50; child free. www.estorickcollection.com. 9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions.
At the venue of the famous Championships, the 39a Canonbury Square, N1 2AN. T: 020-7704 9522. www.nationalgallery.org.uk. Trafalgar Square, WC2N
displays range from old trophies and rackets to Off map. Station: Highbury & Islington. 5DN. T: 020-7747 2885. E7. Station: Charing Cross.
famous tennis kits from current champions, plus
touchscreens to watch past greats in action.
Look out for the ghost of John McEnroe, and the
virtual reality 360-degree experience narrated by
Tim Henman. To 4 Mar 2018: On Air: Wimbledon and
the BBC 1927-2017. Exhibition to celebrate BBCs radio
and TV live broadcasting of Championships for 90

UNTITLED (ROOM 101) MUSE NATIONAL DART MODERNE CENTRE POMPIDOU, PARIS/PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF THE ARTIST RACHEL WHITEREAD
years, displaying old TV cameras, posters and
programmes. Tours of the grounds include Centre
Court. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Museum adult 13; child
8. Museum & Tour adult 25; child 15. One free
child with every full-price adult. www.wimbledon.
com/museum. All England Lawn Tennis Club, Church
Rd, SW19 5AE. T: 020-8946 6131.Off map. Station:
Southfields then bus 493 or a 12-minute walk.

GALLERIES
The Art of the Brick: DC Super Heroes
To 3 Sep: See astounding large-
scale LEGO sculptures of super heroes and super
villains, created by artist Nathan Sawaya. Daily;
please check for times. Adult 16.50; child 11.
Corner of Upper Ground and Cornwall Rd,
South Bank, SE1 9PP. www.aotbdc.co.uk.
T: 0333-247 0260. Station: Waterloo.

Barbican Art Gallery


Multi-arts venue with two exhibition spaces.
From 21 Sep: Basquiat: Boom for Real. The
UKs first major exhibition of Jean-Michel Basquiat
(p. 37). Charges for special exhibitions. Please
check for times and prices. www.barbican.org.uk.
Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638
4141. D10. Station: Barbican.
Material world
Plaster, concrete, rubber and metal arent materials you would automatically associate
Ben Uri Gallery
This museum of Jewish art houses more than with art, but these industrial substances are the favourites of British contemporary artist
1,000 works, plus regular talks and events. Rachel Whiteread. Tate Britain celebrates the London-born sculptors 25-year career with
To 17 Sep: Art Out of the Bloodlands: A Century of Polish a vast exhibition of her works (from 12 Sep; p. 43). These include Untitled (Room 101) a cast
Artists in Britain. Highlighting 20th and 21st-century of a room at BBCs Broadcasting House, thought to be the inspiration for George Orwells
paintings and prints by approximately 50 Polish
Room 101 in Nineteen Eighty-Four (above), and Untitled (One Hundred Spaces), 100 resin casts
migrants. Mon-Fri 10am-5.30pm; Sat & Sun 11am-
5pm. Admission free. www.benuri.org.uk. 108a of the undersides of chairs. In addition to these is her 1993 Turner Prize-winning House
Boundary Rd, off Abbey Rd, NW8 0RH. T: 020-7604 for which she became the first female winner of the prestigious prize.
3991. Off map. Station: Kilburn High Road.

42 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

National Portrait Gallery


Prominent gallery, more than 150 years old,
COMMERCIAL GALLERIES Lisson Gallery
Influential contemporary art gallery showing
with depictions of famous British people. Alan Cristea Gallery innovative and international artists. 52-54 Bell St,
To 24 Sep: BP Portrait Award 2017. Leading gallery in the European art scene. Admission NW1 5DA. T: 020-7724 2739. www.lissongallery.com.
See the finalists in this prestigious competition. free. 43 Pall Mall, SW1Y 5JG. T: 020-7439 1866. D5. Station: Edgware Road.
To 22 Oct: The Encounter: Drawings from Leonardo www.alancristea.com. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
to Rembrandt. Exploring the creative relationship October Gallery
between the artists and their sitters. Sat-Wed 10am- David Zwirner Contemporary, ethnic and tribal art. 24 Old
6pm; Thur & Fri 10am-9pm (regular special events). Contemporary art gallery. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm. Gloucester St, WC1N 3AL. T: 020-7242 7367.
Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. 24 Grafton St, W1S 4EZ. T: 020-3538 3165. www.octobergallery.co.uk. C8. Station: Holborn.
www.npg.org.uk. St Martins Place, WC2H 0HE. www.davidzwirner.com. E7. Station: Green Park.
T: 020-7312 2463. E7. Station: Leicester Square. White Cube Bermondsey
Kings Place Influential contemporary gallery. 144-152
The Photographers Gallery Arts venue. 90 York Way, N1 9AG. T: 020-7520 1490. Bermondsey St, SE1 3TQ. T: 020-7930 5373.
Londons largest gallery devoted to photography, www.kingsplace.co.uk. Off map. Station: Kings Cross. www.whitecube.com. F11. Station: London Bridge.
with temporary exhibitions. To 8 Oct: Gregory
Crewdson Cathedral of the Pines. Powerful scenic
works from the US photographer. Mon-Sat 10am-
6pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun 11am-6pm. Admission
free before noon, then 4. www.thephotographers
gallery.org.uk. 16-18 Ramillies St, W1F 7LW.
T: 020-7087 9300. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Serpentine Gallery
A respected arts space displaying modern and
contemporary work. To 8 Oct: Serpentine Pavilion.
Designed by Francis Kr, this temporary structure
hosts events throughout the summer. To 10 Sep:
Grayson Perry: The Most Popular Art Exhibition, Ever!
New humorous works by the provocative and
sometimes controversial British artist, with
themes including Brexit, gender and mass culture.
Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission free. Kensington
Gardens, W2 3XA. T: 020-7402 6075. E4.
Station: South Kensington.

Tate Britain
UNTITLED (ROOM 101) MUSE NATIONAL DART MODERNE CENTRE POMPIDOU, PARIS/PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF THE ARTIST RACHEL WHITEREAD

The nations leading collection of British art


from 1500 to today, including the worlds largest
collection of works by Turner. To 1 Oct: Queer British
Art 1861-1967. Marking the 50th anniversary of the
partial decriminalisation of male homosexuality
in England, featuring paintings and items from
artists including Hockney and Singer Sargent.
From 12 Sep: Rachel Whiteread. Sculptural
works by the prominent British artist and the first
woman to win the Turner Prize, in 1993 (p. 42). Daily
10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special
exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Millbank, SW1P 4RG.
T: 020-7887 8888. G8. Station: Pimlico.

Tate Modern
World-class collection of international modern
art in the transformed Bankside Power Station.
To 22 Oct: Soul of a Nation: Art in the Age of Black
Power. A collection of powerful works by black
American artists during the Civil Rights movement.
To 10 Sep: Giacometti. Retrospective
of distinctive works by the Swiss sculptor. To 8 Oct:
Fahrelnissa Zeid. Kaleidoscopic paintings by the
Turkish avant-garde artist. Sun-Thur 10am-6pm;
Fri & Sat 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for
special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Bankside,
SE1 9TG. T: 020-7887 8888. E9. Station: Southwark.

Whitechapel Gallery
East End gallery, showcasing modern art.
To 10 Sep: Benedict Drew: The
Trickle-Down Syndrome. Site-specific installation.
From 27 Sep: Thomas Ruff. The
contemporary German photographers works
comprise themes such as cosmology, nudity and
utopianism. Tue-Sun 11am-6pm; Thur 11am-9pm.
Admission free; charges for special exhibitions.
www.whitechapel.org. 77-82 Whitechapel
High St, E1 7QX. T: 020-7522 7888. Off map.
Station: Aldgate East.

www.wheretraveler.com 43

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ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE

Cruel intentions
A Victorian music hall is the perfect venue for this vaudeville-style show, says Sarah Riches
Creepy musical-box tunes, doll-like Malaysia, and had three UK tours so to Dark, twisted and surreal, the show
make-up and a bulging-eyed, gap-toothed launch the new version in the capital and blends physical theatre with mime, song
baby mask can only mean one thing the in a venue that suits it so well is exciting. and dance, alliteration and rhyme. The
variety show The Terrible Infants is back, The Terrible Infants is a collection of five production has been likened to Roald
following stints at the Edinburgh Fringe interconnected short stories by Lansley Dahl, Tim Burton and Brothers Grimm
Festival and an international tour. and Sam Wyer. Seagar adds: Our designer stories, and is reminiscent of a carnival
Les Enfants Terribles the team behind Sam Wyer who also designed Alices or Gothic fairytale. Actors wear Victorian-
Olivier-nominated show Alices Adventures Adventures Underground is overhauling style costumes and paint their faces,
Underground and Dinner with the Twits at the puppets and our ideas. The overall look while a band plays jaunty music.
The Vaults is staging the comical musical of the show has changed slightly while Dame Judi Dench provides a recorded
at the worlds oldest music hall, Wiltons remaining true to the original concept. narration, while the cast tells silly stories
Music Hall (from 27 Sep), to mark the Thats important, as people still talk about it about cruel children let loose from nursery.
shows 10-year anniversary. The Grade 10 years on, so we want to retain the magic Through shadow art, clowns, a one-eyed
II-listed venue, with its floorboards, that made it so special the first time around. ragdoll and a marionette, youll meet
arches and original features, is an ideal We have a new story called Finbar, about a silent boy who even his parents forget
backdrop for the vaudeville-style show. a boy who wishes he was with the fishes about; Little Linena, a vain girl made from
The show is co-directed by Oliver Lansley but his wish becomes true in a way he cloth; stinky Manky Mingus; Little Tilly, who
and James Seager. Seagar says: Weve is not expecting! Nothings been cut yet, tells so many lies she grows a tail of her
wanted to do a show at Wiltons for some but when we rehearse there are own and Tumb, a hungry boy who
time as its a magnificent, beautiful building certain elements we want eats his mum who then refuses to
that suits the companys aesthetic to change. eat any more food. This is suitable
wonderfully. Weve never done the for children and adults.
show for a run in London its been 1 Graces Alley, E1 8JB. T: 020-7702
to Australia, Singapore, Poland, 2789. www.wiltons.org.uk
Norway, Germany, Scotland and

THE TERRIBLE INFANTS COURTESY OF THE TERRIBLE INFANTS

44 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017

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EVENING STANDARD

YOURE GONNA LOVE IT MAIL ON SUNDAY

OLIVIER AWARDS WINNER 2017

BOOK AND LYRICS BYTOM EYEN MUSIC BY HENRY KRIEGER


ORIGINAL BROADWAY PRODUCTION DIRECTED AND CHOREOGRAPHED BY MICHAEL BENNETT

DIRECTED AND CHOREOGRAPHED BY CASEY NICHOLAW

DAY SEATS AVAILABLE


20 DAY SEATS AVAILABLE FROM 10AM AT THE BOX OFFICE

SAVOY THEATRE | Strand, London, WC2R 0ET | DreamgirlsWestEnd.com

WL2017
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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: inc Underground (Tube), railway and Docklands Light Railway. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates
on the map on p. 80-81. Please check for complete listings. TKTS booth has discounted tickets for West End shows (Leicester Square Gardens, WC2H 0AP)

Evita
Andrew Lloyd Webber and Tim Rices musical
follows the true story of Eva, the wife of former
Argentine dictator Juan Pern. Documenting the
journey that led her from humble beginnings to
becoming the spiritual leader of the nation, this
musical includes a rousing score including Dont
Cry for Me Argentina. Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Thur 3pm;
Sat 4pm. Tickets 31.30-81.30. www.phoenix
theatrelondon.co.uk. Phoenix Theatre, 110 Charing
Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0843-316 1082. E7.
Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Footloose: The Musical


12-30 Sep: This stage version of the hit 1980s movie
stars Gareth Gates, who plays city boy Ren, forced
to move to a rural backwater where dancing and
rock music are banned. Featuring the original songs,
including the title track and Lets Hear It for Boy. Tue-
Sun; check for times. Tickets 15-55. www.atg
tickets.com. Peacock Theatre, Portugal St, WC2A

A womans touch
2HT. T: 020-7863 8222. Off map. Station: Holborn.

42nd Street
A new play about one of historys earliest feminists is coming to Shakespeares Globe. This romantic comedy follows an authoritarian
director as he stages a musical extravaganza
Directed by Eleanor Rhode, Boudica (from 8 Sep; p. 48) is a classic ancient drama set
during the Great Depression. Clare Halse (Gypsy)
in Britannia in AD 61, just as rebellion is simmering at the edge of the Roman Empire. stars as Peggy, a small-town girl with big dreams
When the king of semi-independent Iceni dies, he leaves his land to his warrior widow, whos stuck in a chorus line on Broadways newest
Boudica, as well as the Roman emperor. But the Romans ignore the will, rape his show. But when the leading lady Dorothy Brock
daughters and flog Boudica before banishing her. Independent and determined to (Sheena Easton) gets injured, Peggy has a shot
at stardom. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm.
fight the injustice, Queen Boudica returns with an army hell bent on revenge. With
Tickets 25-125. www.42ndstreetmusical.co.uk.
two fight directors on board for this production, you can expect plenty of action. Theatre Royal Drury Lane, Catherine St, WC2B 5JF.
T: 0844-858 8877. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

MUSICALS & Horwood from 18 Sep) has other ideas. Mon Girl from the North Country
& Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sun 3pm. Tickets In Minnesota, 1934, a community living on a knife-
PERFORMANCES 24-132. www.piccadillytheatre.org. Piccadilly edge huddle together in the local guesthouse,
Theatre, 16 Denman St, W1D 7DY. T: 0844-871 where the owner, Nick, owes more money than he
Aladdin 7630. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. can ever repay. This powerful show is brought to life
This Broadway and West End hit has a
by music and a songbook of Bob Dylan tunes. Mon-
stellar cast. Expect tunes such as A Whole New World The Book of Mormon
Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets 12-67.50.
and Friend Like Me with lyrics by Tim Rice, and a real This controversial satire, from the writers of TVs
www.oldvictheatre.com. The Old Vic, The Cut,
magic carpet. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. South Park, follows the exploits of two hapless
SE1 8NB. T: 0844-871 7628. F9. Station: Waterloo.
Tickets 40-99.75. www.aladdinthemusical.co.uk. missionaries from the Church of Latter Day Saints.
Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton St, W1D 4HS. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets Half a Sixpence
T: 0844-482 5151. D7. Station: Tottenham 34.75-152.25. www.bookofmormonlondon.com. To 2 Sep:Arthur Kipps is an
Court Road. Prince of Wales Theatre, Coventry St, W1D 6AS. orphan and an overworked drapers assistant
T: 0844-482 5110. E7. Station: Leicester who unexpectedly inherits a fortune that propels
Alices Adventures Underground Square/Piccadilly Circus. him into high society. Based on a novel by
To 23 Sep: Following a limited run in HG Wells. Mon-Tue & Thur-Sat 7.30pm;
2015, this immersive show based on Lewis Carrolls
Doubt, a Parable
6-30 Sep: A Catholic school principal Wed, Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets 25-127.25.
childrens classic was nominated for an Olivier Award www.halfasixpence.co.uk. Nol Coward
questions a priests ambiguous
and its back at The Vaults beneath Waterloo Theatre, St Martins Lane,
SHAKESPEARES GLOBE JOHN WILDGOOSE; WITCH COURTESY OF WICKED
relationship with a troubled young
Station. Please check for times. Tickets 39-54. WC2N 4AU. T: 0844-482 5140. E8.
student. 3pm & 7.30pm. Tickets
www.alice-underground.com. The Vaults, Leake St, 12-20. www.southwarkplayhouse. Station: Leicester Square.
SE1 7NN. T: 0844-248 1125. F8. Station: Waterloo. co.uk. Southwark Playhouse, 77-85 Jesus Christ Superstar
An American in Paris Newington Causeway, SE1 6BD. To 23 Sep: After
T: 020-7407 0234. Off map. Station: a successful run at this theatre last
Originally a jazz number written in 1928 by George
Elephant and Castle. summer, this award-winning show is
Gershwin, and later a film, this musical follows an
American World War II veteran who falls for a woman Dreamgirls the revival of the musical by Andrew
in a bar in 1940s Paris. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat Glee TV star Amber Riley plays Lloyd Webber and Tim Rice.
2pm. Tickets 19.50-125. www.anamericaninparis Effie White in this musical Please check for times. Tickets
themusical.co.uk. Dominion Theatre, 268-269 about the tumultuous 22.50-55. www.openair
Tottenham Court Rd, W1T 7AQ. T: 0845-200 7982. journey of a young female theatre.com. Open Air
D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road. singing trio from Chicago. Theatre, Regents Park, NW1
Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed 4NU. T: 0844-826 4242. C6.
Annie & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets Station: Baker Street.
Revival of the popular story set in 20-145. www.savoy
the Great Depression about Annie, a girl in an theatre.org. Savoy Expect to be enchanted
orphanage who gets a chance to spend Christmas Theatre, Strand, WC2R by the magical musical,
with a millionaire. But the evil manager Miss 0ET. T: 0844-871 7687. E8. Wicked (p. 48)
Hannigan (played by Miranda Hart; Craig Revel Station: Covent Garden.

46 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017

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ENTERTAINMENT

Kinky Boots School of Rock: The Musical The Wind in the Willows
Fun musical about a shoe factory which A hit on Broadway, Andrew Lloyd Webbers latest The childrens novel is brought to life
reinvigorates its business after its new owner musical follows an out-of-work rock singer who with an original score. It stars Rufus Hound as Toad,
decides to produce knee-high boots for drag pretends to be a teacher, and forms a band of a loveable rascal with a penchant for fast cars. Mon
queens. With music by Cyndi Lauper. Mon-Sat primary schoolkids. Mon, Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Thur 7pm; Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Tue & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets
7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets 19.50-125. & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm. Tickets 15-99.50. 15-125. www.windinthewillowsthemusical.com.
www.kinkybootsthemusical.co.uk. Adelphi www.schoolofrockthemusical.com. New London London Palladium, Argyll St, W1F 7TF. T: 0844-412
Theatre, 409-412 Strand, WC2R 0NS. T: 0844-579 Theatre, 166 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PF. T: 020-7452 2704. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
0094. E8. Station: Charing Cross. 3000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Les Misrables Some Lovers PLAYS


The worlds longest-running musical, adapted To 2 Sep: Four actors play two
characters caught between the present and the Apologia
from Victor Hugos classic novel, is set in post-
past in this love story set in New York over 20 years. Emmy Award-winner Stockard Channing stars in
revolutionary France. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat
The score is by award-winning Burt Bacharach. this darkly funny play, which is directed by Jamie
2.30pm. Tickets 12.50-143.75. www.lesmis.com.
1 Sep 8pm; 2 Sep 3pm & 8pm. Tickets 20. Lloyd (p. 52). Tickets 15-95. www.atgtickets.com.
Queens Theatre, 51 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6BA.
www.theotherpalace.co.uk. The Other Palace, Trafalgar Studios, 14 Whitehall, SW1A 2DY. T: 0844-
T: 0844-482 5160. D8. Station: Leicester Square/
12 Palace St, SW1E 5JA. T: 0844-264 871 7632. E7. Station: Charing Cross.
Piccadilly Circus.
2140. Off map. Station: St Jamess Boudica
Disneys The Lion King Park/Victoria. From 8 Sep: A widow fights to
Wonderful adaptation of the popular
Stomp reclaim her rightful throne (p. 46).
Disney film with ingenious costumes and inventive
An award-winning fusion of theatre, Check for times. Tickets 5-45.
puppetry, plus music by Sir Elton John (p. 50). The Phantom of the
dance, comedy and rhythmic www.shakespearesglobe.com.
Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Wed, Sat & Sun 2.30pm. Tickets Operas make-up takes
Shakespeares Globe, 21 New
47.70-167.50. www.thelionking.co.uk. Lyceum percussion, with the award-winning two hours to apply
troupe using everything imaginable and 30 minutes Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401
Theatre, 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ. T: 0844-871 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.
3000. E8. Station: Covent Garden. to make rhythms. Mon & Thur-Sat to remove
8pm; Thur & Sat-Sun 3pm; Sun 6pm; Cat on a Hot Tin Roof
Mamma Mia! occasional Weds. Tickets 26-57.50. Sienna Miller stars in Tennessee Williams 1955
A tribute to the music of ABBA, with many of their www.stomplondon.co.uk. Ambassadors Theatre, play. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets
popular hits, wrapped up in a feel-good story set West St, WC2H 9ND. T: 020-7395 5405. D7. 10-67. www.apollotheatrelondon.co.uk. Apollo
on a Greek island where a young woman is trying Station: Leicester Square. Theatre, Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0330-333
to find the identity of her father the night before 4809. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
her wedding. Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Thriller Live
Tickets 18-117. www.mamma-mia.com. Novello, Non-stop songs and dance celebrate Michael The Comedy About a Bank Robbery
Jacksons 45-year-long career, including all his A hilarious play about six incompetent crooks
Aldwych, WC2B 4LD. T: 0844-482 5115. E8.
much-loved hits such as I Want You Back, ABC, desperate to get hold of a diamond. Check
Station: Covent Garden/Temple.
Off the Wall and, of course, Thriller. Please check for times. Tickets 11.25-73.75. www.the
Matilda the Musical for times and prices. www.thrillerlive.com. Lyric, comedyaboutabankrobbery.com. The Criterion
Fantastic show based on Roald Dahls 29 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0844-482 9674. Theatre, 218-223 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB. T: 0844-815
childrens book about a girl with magic powers. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. 6131. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Tue 7pm; Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm; Sun
Wicked Faulty Towers: The Dining Experience
3pm. Tickets 25-122.50. www.matildathemusical.
The back story of the witches of Oz, Seventies-style dining and interactive comedy
com. Cambridge Theatre, 32-34 Earlham St, WC2
with young sorcery students Glinda and Elpheba combine in this theatrical experience. Check for
9HU. T: 0844-412 4652. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
(p. 46). Includes the hit tunes Defying Gravity and times. Tickets 65-87. www.faultytowers-uk.com.
The Mentor Popular, plus spectacular sets and costumes. Mon-
The Torquay Suite Theatre, Amba Hotel Charing
To 2 Sep: Benjamin Robin is a Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets 24.25-
Cross, Strand, WC2N 5HX. T: 0845-154 4145. E8.
cantankerous old writer who meets Martin Wegner, 125. www.wickedthemusical.co.uk. Apollo Victoria
Station: Charing Cross. Kingsway Hall Hotel, 66
Theatre, 17 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1LG. T: 0844-871 3001.
a rising young literary star, but their massive egos Great Queen St, WC2B 5BX. D8. Station: Holborn.
F7. Station: Victoria.
are set on a collision course in this compelling
comedy. Please check for times and prices.

Clipped wings
www.vaudeville-theatre.co.uk. Vaudeville Theatre,
404 Strand, WC2R 0NH. T: 0330-333 4814. E8.
Station: Charing Cross/Covent Garden. Top
Pick
Olivier and BAFTA-winner Juliet
Motown the Musical Stevenson stars in Wings at the
Brilliant feel-good musical which influenced
a generation. Its based on the story of Motown
Young Vic (from 14 Sep; p. 50). She
Records, which launched the careers of Diana plays a former pilot and wingwalker,
Ross and the Supremes, Michael Jackson and who suffers a stroke in her seventies
The Jackson 5, Stevie Wonder, Marvin Gaye and
and struggles to cope with the loss
The Temptations. Includes plenty of well-known
hits, including Dancing in the Street. Please check for of her speech, memory, identity and
times and prices. www.shaftesburytheatre.com. independence. Stevenson brilliantly
Shaftesbury Theatre, 210 Shaftesbury Ave, WC2H captures the sense of disorientation
8DP. T: 020-7379 5399. D8. Station: Tottenham
Court Road/Holborn.
and frustration in this mesmerising
JULIET STEVENSON JOHAN PERSSON

monologue. Originally a radio play


The Phantom of the Opera
Long-running Gothic drama in which a disfigured
by Arthur Kopit, Wings premiered
masked man hides beneath the Paris Opera House, on stage in America in 1978 to rave
obsessed by the attractive singer, Christine, and reviews. Stevenson is teaming up
determined to keep her by his side. Now in its 31st
with director Natalie Abrahami once
year. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets
24.80-128.50. www.thephantomoftheopera.com. again after they worked together on
Her Majestys Theatre, 57 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QL. Happy Days, also at the Young Vic.
T: 0844-412 2707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

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ENTERTAINMENT

Oslo
Movie magic 5-23 Sep: A play about the 1993 Oslo Peace Accords,
which saw the leaders of Israel and Palestine shake
hands at the White House. Please check for times.
The Luna Cinema returns to screen more classic films outdoors in iconic locations.
Tickets 15-65. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk.
Experience sights in a new light at dusk as you watch the Hollywood romance Lyttelton Theatre, National Theatre, South Bank,
La La Land at Dulwich Park (9 Sep), Battersea Park (12 Sep), Alexandra Palace (16 Sep) SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.
and Fulham Palace (20 Sep). You can also see The Lost Boys at Alexandra Palace (15 Sep),
Our Ladies of Perpetual Succour
Jurassic Park (13 Sep), Moulin Rouge! (14 Sep) at Battersea Park and The Great Gatsby To 2 Sep: The uplifting and moving
at Fulham Palace (21 Sep). Other highlights this month include a Grease singalong story of six Catholic choir girls from Oban, who
in Kew Gardens (7 Sep); The Big Lebowski in Victoria Embankment Gardens (19 Sep); are let loose in Edinburgh. Please check for times.
The Graduate (10 Sep) at Regents Park Open Air Theatre and Ghost by an illuminated Tickets 10-65. www.dukeofyorkstheatre.co.uk.
Duke of Yorks Theatre, 104 St Martins Lane, WC2N
St Pauls Cathedral. If it rains, the show still goes on, so be prepared and take a blanket! 4BG. T: 0844-871 7627. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

The Play That Goes Wrong


Slapstick comedy about an amateur dramatic
society staging a murder mystery. Tue-Sat 7.30pm;
Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Tickets 22-67.50.
www.theplaythatgoeswrong.com. Duchess
Theatre, 3-5 Catherine St, WC2B 5LA. T: 0844-482
9672. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Wings
From 14 Sep: Juliet Stevenson stars as a
wingwalker (p. 48). Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat
2.30pm (except 16, 20 & 27 Sep). Tickets 10-38.
www.youngvic.org. Young Vic, 66 The Cut, SE1 8LZ.
T: 020-7922 2922. F9. Station: Waterloo.

The Woman in Black


A Gothic story adapted from Susan Hills novel,
about a lawyer who visits a house to settle affairs
after a death. Tue-Sat 8pm; Tue & Thur 3pm; Sat
4pm. Tickets 19.50-60. www.thewomaninblack.
com. Fortune Theatre, Russell St, WC2B 5HH.
T: 0844-871 7626. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Ferryman
With a story by Jez Butterworth and direction by
King Lear
The king makes the decision to divide his kingdom
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
Sam Mendes, this play is set in Northern Ireland among his daughters, but fails to anticipate the BBC Proms
in 1981. It follows the Carney household as they consequences of his actions. Please check for Annual festival celebrating classical
prepare for a feast to celebrate the annual harvest, times. Tickets 5-45. www.shakespearesglobe.com. music, with the aim of bringing it to the masses at
before an uninvited guest appears. Mon-Sat 7pm; Shakespeares Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 reasonable prices. The finale is in Hyde Park (9 Sep).
Wed & Sat 1.30pm. Tickets 12-64.50. www.delfont 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars. Please check for times and prices. www.bbc.co.uk.
mackintosh.co.uk. Gielgud Theatre, Shaftesbury Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP.
Ave, W1D 6AR. T: 0844-482 5130. E7. Station: Lady Day at Emersons Bar & Grill T: 020-7589 8212. F4. Station: South Kensington.
Piccadilly Circus/Leicester Square. To 9 Sep: Six-time Tony Award-
winner Audra McDonald plays the blues singer The Luna Cinema
Hamlet Billie Holiday. Tue-Sat 7.45pm; Wed, Thur & Sat Watch classic films and blockbusters such as

ALEXANDRA PALACE SCREENING COURTESY OF THE LUNA CINEMA; THE LION KING IMAGE DISNEY
To 2 Sep: Hamlet is brought to 2.45pm. Tickets 12.50-62.10. www.delfont Dreamgirls and The Rocky Horror Picture Show
the stage by the critically acclaimed creative mackintosh.co.uk. Wyndhams Theatre, Charing (above). Check for times. Adult 15; child 10.
team behind 1984. Mon-Sat 7pm; Thur & Sat Cross Rd, WC2H 0DA. T: 0844-482 5120. E7. www.thelunacinema.com. T: 0844-858 6767.
1.30pm. Tickets 15-95. www.haroldpinter Station: Leicester Square. Underbelly Festival
theatre.co.uk. Harold Pinter Theatre, To 30 Sep Comedy,
Panton St, SW1Y 4DN. T: 0844-871 7622. The Mousetrap
A murderer strikes at a party in Agatha circus, cabaret and family shows, plus
E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Christies whodunnit, in the worlds one of Londons biggest outdoor
Harry Potter and the Cursed Child longest-running stage production. bars. www.underbellyfestival.com.
The long-awaited parts I and II of the adaptation Please check for times and prices. Belvedere Road Coach Park, SE1 8XX.
The Lion King,
of JK Rowlings new story has already won many www.the-mousetrap.co.uk. St Martins T: 0844-545 8252. E8. Station: Waterloo.
awards. Father-of-three Harry now works for the Theatre, West St, WC2H 9NZ. T: 0844-499
Ministry of Magic, but his youngest son grapples
with the legacy he never really wanted. Most
1515. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
DANCE
tickets are sold out; please check for returns Much Ado About Nothing Royal Opera House
and times. www.harrypottertheplay.com. William Shakespeares classic From 27 Sep: Alices Adventures in
Palace Theatre, 113 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 5AY. play is transported to Mexico Wonderland. Christopher Wheeldons
T: 0300-333 4813. D7. Station: Charing Cross. in 1910. Claudio and Benedick charming ballet for all ages. Please
return home and Claudio check for times and prices.
Jane Eyre has been pining for his www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E
From 26 Sep: Drama based on the timeless love. Check for times. 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8.
novel by Charlotte Bront, about a womans fight Tickets 5-45. www. Station: Covent Garden.
for freedom and fulfilment on her own terms, shakespeares globe.com.
tackling obstacles head on. Please check for times. Shakespeares Globe,
Tickets 29-60. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. 21 New Globe Walk, SE1
Watch The Lion King, the
National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919.
much-loved musical based
T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo. E10. Station: Blackfriars.
on the Disney movie (p. 48)

50 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017

WL SEPT ENTERTAINMENT.indd 50 17/08/2017 12:13


Expect the unexpected!

Ri p- ro a r i ng l y
hi l a r i o us !
This is London

Kingsway Hall Hotel


66 Great Queen Street
Covent Garden, London
WC2B 5BX
(+44) 0845 154 4145
torquaysuitetheatre.com

SEEN BY OVER 7 MILLION THEATREGOERS WORLDWIDE


THE ORIGINAL. LIVE ON STAGE.

SUSAN HILLS
ALEXANDRA PALACE SCREENING COURTESY OF THE LUNA CINEMA; THE LION KING IMAGE DISNEY

ADAPTED BY STEPHEN MALLATRATT

FORTUNE THEATRE
0844 871 7626 thewomaninblack.com
Calls cost 7p per minute, plus your phone companys access charge
Covent Garden

N O W B O O K I N G U N T I L M A R C H 2018
www.wheretraveler.com 51

WL SEPT ENTERTAINMENT.indd 51 17/08/2017 12:14


ENTERTAINMENT

Sadlers Wells
In her 12-16 Sep: Hofesh Shechter Company: Grand Finale.
A vision of a world in freefall. 20-23 Sep: Akram

defence
Khans Giselle (English National Ballet). 27-30 Sep:
Acosta Danza: Debut. Dance icon Carlos Acosta
launches his company. Please check for times and
Award-winning Hollywood
prices. www.sadlerswells.com. Rosebery Ave, EC1R
actress Stockard Channing 4TN. T: 020-7863 8000. Off map. Station: Angel.
best known as Rizzo in
the 1978 hit musical Grease
has been getting rave
OPERA
reviews in the revival of Royal Opera House
Home to the Royal Opera Company. From 11 Sep:
Apologia (meaning La Bohme (Puccini). From 12 Sep: Die Zauberflte
defence) at Trafalgar (Mozart). Please check for times and prices.
Studios (p. 48). Directed www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304
by Jamie Lloyd, the play 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
follows Kristin, a liberal art London Coliseum
historian and 60s activist, From 28 Sep: Aida (Verdi). Please check for times.
who has recently published Tickets 30-105. www.eno.org. 33 St Martins
Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020-7845 9300. E8.
her memoir. At a birthday
Station: Charing Cross.
party in her cottage,
however, cracks in Kristins
relationships start to show
CONCERTS: CLASSICAL
as her friends and family Cadogan Hall
9 Sep: Russian State Opera: Tosca. 17 Sep: Grenfell
begin to question her
Tower Benefit Concert (Mozart, Schubert, Puccini,
achievements, and whether Tchaikovsky). 27 Sep: London Russian Ballet School.
they were worth the Please check for times. www.cadoganhall.com.
sacrifices she has made. 5 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9DQ. T: 020-7730 4500.
G6. Station: Sloane Square.

STOCKARD CHANNING SHAUN WEBB

52 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017

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Royal Albert Hall
Londons premier music hall, and home to the
annual BBC Proms (p. 50). 2 Sep: Prom 66. Mahlers
Fourth Symphony. Please check for times, prices
and full proms listings. www.royalalberthall.com.
Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP.
T: 020-7589 8212. G4. South Kensington.

St Martin-in-the-Fields
Extensive programme of lunchtime and evening
concerts and recitals, some candlelit. Please check
for full listings. www.smitf.org. St Martin-in-the-
Fields Church, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ.
T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Wigmore Hall
Famous concert hall with regular recitals. 9 Sep:
Gerald Finley/Julius Drake (Schubert, Poulenc,
Ravel). 10 Sep: Castalian String Quartet (Mozart,
Schubert). 11 Sep: Cuarteto Casals (Beethoven,
Matan Porat). 12 Sep: Mahan Esfahani (Bach).
13 Sep: Doric String Quartet (Haydn). 18 Sep:
Classical Opera: The Mozartists. 22 Sep:
Vienna Mozart Trio. 23 Sep: Sir Andras Schiff
(Mendelssohn, Brahms). 7.30pm. www.wigmore-
hall.org.uk. 36 Wigmore St, W1U 2BP. T: 020-7935
2141. D6. Station: Bond Street.

CONCERTS: POP,
JAZZ & WORLD
The O2
Enormous venue for live music. 12 Sep: John
Legend. 19 Sep: Foo Fighters. 30 Sep: Nick Cave &
The Bad Seeds. Please check for times and prices.
www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10
0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. Off map. Station: North
Greenwich.

Ronnie Scotts Jazz Club


Londons famous jazz venue. 1-2 Sep: Spanish
Harlem Orchestra. Viva Cuba! Live Cuban bands
and DJs. 1-2 Sep: Spanish Harlem Orchestra. 4-9
Sep: Saluting Sgt Pepper! With Django Bates and the
Frankfurt Radio Big Band. 14-16 Sep: Henry Butlers
Jambalaya Band. 18-23 Sep: Incognito. 27-30 Sep:
Stacey Kent. Please check for times, prices and full
listings. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT.
T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Royal Albert Hall


17 Sep: Texas. 21 Sep: Later... with Jools Holland 25.
22 Sep: Ryan Adams. 30 Sep: Casino Royale in
concert. Please check for times and prices. www.
royalalberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP.
T: 020-7589 8212. F4. Station: South Kensington

CHILDREN & FAMILIES


Child of the Divide
From 29 Sep: Set in 1947, when millions of
people are moving between India and Pakistan,
young Palis destiny changes. Suitable for ages
seven to 14. Tickets 10-13.50. Please check for
STOCKARD CHANNING SHAUN WEBB

times. www.polkatheatre.com. Polka Theatre,


240 The Broadway, SW19 1SB. T: 020-8543 4888.
Off map. Station: Wimbledon.

Gangsta Granny
To 3 Sep: Based on David Walliams
book, Ben stays in with his granny on a boring Friday
night, but she has ways to spice things up. Suitable
for over fives. Tue, Wed, Sat-Sun 7pm; Tue-Sun
2.30pm. Tickets 23.50-65. www.garricktheatre.org.
Garrick Theatre, 2 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0HH.
T: 0844-482 9673. E7/8. Station: Leicester Square.

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WL SEPT ENTERTAINMENT.indd 53 18/08/2017 15:36


SHOPPING | THE GUIDE

Clockwise from this image: Emilia


Wicksteads catwalk show; pop-up
shop; Mary Katrantzous catwalk show
Streets with style
Fashion for everyone
You dont have to be a celebrity to enjoy London Fashion Week, says
Kohinoor Sahota. Get set for catwalk shows and masterclasses for all

London, we humbly declare, is the style Weekend gives you the chance to get
capital of the world. Not Paris, New York a taste of the actual event. As the name
or Milan. Instead its this mother of a city suggests, the festival has grown into
that has given birth to the three-piece something more fabulous, darling, and now
suit, bowler hat and trench coat, which are takes place at The Store at 180 The Strand.
worn the world over, and nurtured fashion Bag a front-row seat at a catwalk show

ALL FASHION IMAGES COURTESY OF LONDON FASHION WEEK; REGENT STREET ISTOCK
trends from punk to the Sloane Ranger. from one of Londons latest designers;
Twice a year, British designers, including browse the pop-up shop that stocks more REGENT STREET
the eccentric, eclectic and ever-inventive, than 150 brands for men and women, At Regent Street Fashion and Design
showcase their collections at London including Alexander White, Ducie and Month (1-30 Sep; above) bookable talks
Fashion Week (21-24 Sep). Paul Smith, House of Spring; or listen to one of the and seminars take place confirmed guests
include Oscar-winning costume designer
Stella McCartney and Vivienne Westwood talks delivered by industry experts.
Jenny Beavan, and celebrity photographer
are just some of the notable names. Panel discussions include style director David Montgomery. You can also join
Now in its 33rd year, the event brings in Marie Wilkinson on eyewear trends; and workshops on knitting and sewing.
100 million worth of orders and sets the curator Lesley Miller on Balenciaga: Shaping www.regentstreetonline.com
trends you can expect for autumn and Fashion at the Victoria and Albert Museum.
winter. A strange thing happens in London: Look out for hair and make-up stylists, too: CARNABY STREET
Carnaby Fashion Festival (21-24 Sep)
well-dressed fashion editors, chic celebrities Maybelline New York and Toni & Guy
is a celebration of fashion and beauty in
and zany bloggers can be seen strutting from offer masterclasses on the latest trends. For the still swinging street. Look out for free
one catwalk show to another at iconic venues those who are hoping to enter the world of fashion and beauty talks, workshops and
including Somerset House and the Natural fashion, there are talks by a panel of industry giveaways in the world-famous area.
History Museum. experts on how to make it into jobs such as Events range from Urban Decay, which
has a Beauty with an Edge masterclass
While many of the shows are invite-only, marketing, photography and filmmaking.
with selfie stations and goody bags (21 Sep),
London Fashion Week Festival (21-24 Sep) The Store, 180 The Strand, WC2R 1EA. T: 0115-896 to Lazy Oaf, which has DJs in store (21 Sep).
which used to be known as London Fashion 0030. www.londonfashionweekfestival.com www.carnaby.co.uk

54 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017

WL SEPT SHOPPING.indd 54 18/08/2017 15:37


FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (Tube) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online
discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81

MAJOR SHOPPING MAJOR STORES Marks & Spencer


Reliable source for lingerie, fashion and food
AREAS Fenwick (multiple locations). Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun noon-
Bond Street Designer names and regular events. Mon-Wed; 6pm. www.marksandspencer.com. 458 Oxford St,
Home to designer boutiques, antiques, art Fri & Sat 10am-7pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun noon- W1C 1AP. T: 020-7935 7954. D6. Station: Marble Arch.
and jewellery. D6/E6/E7. Station: Bond Street. 6pm. www.fenwick.co.uk. 63 New Bond St, W1S
Liberty
1RQ. T: 020-7629 9161. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Canary Wharf Heritage combined with cutting-edge design and
A first-class shopping destination located in Fortnum & Mason the brands famous prints. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun
a smart and impressive development in the This British institution is famed for its food hall. noon-6pm. www.liberty.co.uk. Great Marlborough St,
Docklands. Map inset. Station: Canary Wharf. Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fortnum W1B 5AH. T: 020-7734 1234. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Carnaby Street andmason.com. 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER. Selfridges


Once the domain for 1960s mods and rockers, T: 0845-300 1707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. Browse some of the finest products in beauty
these days the Carnaby area appeals to the and fashion, including exclusive and limited-
Hamleys
fashionable set, with sports-inspired stores and edition products. Mon-Sat 9.30am-10pm;
One of the worlds biggest toy shops.
edgy designers. D7/E7. Station: Oxford Circus. Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.selfridges.com.
Mon-Fri 9am-10pm; Sat 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm.
Covent Garden www.hamleys.com. 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT. 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 0800-123 400. D6.
This former fruit and vegetable market is now a T: 0871-704 1977. D7. Station: Oxford Circus. Station: Bond Street.
popular centre for arts, crafts and special interest
Harrods
shops and stalls. The Piazza is surrounded by street
Edwardian food and meat halls, and fashion brands LUXURY ARCADES
entertainers. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
(p. 56). Mon-Fri 10am-9pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm.
Burlington Arcade
Gabriels Wharf www.harrods.com. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL.
Regency arcade running from Burlington Gardens
A small but charming wharf thats home to some T: 020-7730 1234. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
to Piccadilly, featuring fine jewellery, fragrance and
interesting craftspeople, from ceramicists to
jewellers. Youll also find a selection of restaurants House of Fraser fashion brands. Each morning it opens with a gate
Fashion, beauty, homeware and electrical ceremony. www.burlington-arcade.co.uk.
including the OXO Tower. E9. Station: Waterloo.
goods. Mon-Fri 9.30am-10pm; Sun noon-6.30pm. Burlington Arcade, W1J 0QJ. E7. Station:
Hatton Garden www.houseoffraser.com. 318 Oxford St, W1C 1HF. Piccadilly Circus.
This hidden historic corner of London is home to T: 0844-800 3752. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
the jewellery trade and the centre of the diamond Leadenhall Market
industry. C9/D9. Station: Farringdon. John Lewis A grand Victorian covered market in the heart of
Designer labels, homeware and more. Mon-Wed & the City, bustling with elegant boutiques,
Jermyn Street & St Jamess Fri 9.30am-8pm; Thur 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. restaurants and pubs. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk.
Some of the oldest specialist menswear shops in www.johnlewis.com. 300 Oxford St, W1A 1EX. Leadenhall Market, Gracechurch St, EC3V 1LR.
London are found in this area, including hatters T: 020-7629 7711. D4. Station: Oxford Circus. T: 020-7621 0709. D11. Station: Monument.
and shirtmakers. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Kings Road
Once famous for upmarket and alternative fashion,
this street still attracts a stylish crowd. Department
Fair and square
store Peter Jones is good for homeware, and Duke The LAPADA Arts and Antiques Fair (15-20 Sep) in Berkeley Square showcases 100
of York Square has stylish shops and a food market. exhibitors covering jewellery, clocks and art. Prices range from 500 to 500,000 with
G4. Station: Sloane Square.
pieces for first-time buyers and collectors. The fair includes established as well as new
GLOBULAR VASE WITH GOLD DECORATION BY GI PONTI FOR RICHARD GINORI, MILAN 1930S COURTESY OF LAPADA

Oxford Street designers. Even if you are not planning to buy, it serves as an insight into collectible items.
Europes busiest shopping street has major Berkeley Square, W1J 6EB. T: 020-7823 3511. www.lapadalondon.com.
department stores including Selfridges and John E6. Station: Green Park
Lewis, plus popular high-street chains. D6/D7.
Station: Oxford Circus/Bond Street/Marble Arch/
Tottenham Court Road.
ALL FASHION IMAGES COURTESY OF LONDON FASHION WEEK; REGENT STREET ISTOCK

Regent Street
Originally designed by John Nash, this prestigious
area includes Apple, Liberty, Swarovski, the first
British Ferrari shop and Burberry. D6/D7/E7.
Station: Oxford Circus/Piccadilly Circus.

Savile Row
One of Londons most famous areas for tailoring
is in upmarket Mayfair. Find bespoke tailors
including Anderson & Sheppard, Gieves & Hawkes,
Hardy Amies and Kilgour. E7. Station: Green Park.

Seven Dials
In the heart of Covent Garden are seven quirky
streets full of independent boutiques, heritage
brands and vintage stores. www.sevendials.co.uk.
D8. Station: Covent Garden.

St Christophers Place
Home to an exciting mix of shops selling
accessories, shoes, designer brands and more,
plus Londons largest concentration of pavement
dining. D6. Station: Bond Street.

www.wheretraveler.com 55

WL SEPT SHOPPING.indd 55 17/08/2017 12:24


SHOPPING

MALLS & FACTORY Pandora


Jewellery and gifts, including Pandoras much-loved
SPECIALIST STORES
OUTLETS charm bracelets that you can build. www.pandora. Buckingham Palace Shop
Bicester Village net. 257-259 Oxford St, W1C 2DD. T: 020-7407 2007. Find a wide range of unique royal souvenirs.
Discount designer clothes. Mon-Wed & Fri D6. Station: Oxford Circus. Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm. www.royalcollectionshop.
9am-9pm; Thur & Sat 9am-10pm; Sun 10am-7pm. co.uk. 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP.
Wempe
www.bicestervillage.com. Bicester Village, Bicester, T: 020-7839 1377. E6. Station: Victoria.
Grand, spacious setting for the luxury German
Oxfordshire, OX26 6WD. T: 01869-323 200. Off map.
family business, established in 1878. Large selection
Station: Bicester Village, from London Marylebone.
of jewellery and fine watches. www.wempe.com.
Cath Kidston
There is also a bus pick-up service from major hotels. Home to stylish accessories, from stationery to
43-44 New Bond St, W1S 2SA. T: 020-7493 2299.
bags, with pretty London prints. www.cathkidston.
Westfield London E6. Station: Bond Street.
com. 178-180 Piccadilly, W1J 9ER. T: 020-7499 9895.
This mall has more than 300 shops, from
E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
high-street names to high-end fashion labels.
www.westfield.com/london. Ariel Way,
KIDS STORES
W12 7GF. T: 020-3371 2300. Map inset. The Disney Store John Bell & Croyden
Station: Shepherds Bush. The official pharmacy to the Queen offers emergency
The Oxford Street branch has received
prescriptions. www.johnbellcroyden.co.uk. Check for
a sprinkle of magic and has high-tech
Westfield Stratford City entertainment. Look out for free
opening times. 50-54 Wigmore St, W1U 2AU.
Massive mall with 270 shops as well Burberry made coats in T: 020-7935 5555. D6. Station: Bond Street.
screenings. Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun
as a cinema and 24-hour casino. 1914 for officers in World
noon-6pm (branches in WC2 and
www.westfield.com/stratfordcity.
War I. These became London Glassblowing
what is now known as W12). www.disneystore.co.uk. 350-352 Home to wonderful jewellery, decorations, vases,
2 Stratford Place, E20 1EJ. Oxford St, W1C 1JH. T: 020-7491
the trench coat ornaments and unusual items. You can try out
T: 020-8221 7300. Map inset. 9136. D6. Station: Bond Street. a glassblowing session, too. www.londonglass
Station: Stratford.
LEGO Store blowing.co.uk. 62-66 Bermondsey St, SE1 3UD.
Two-storey megastore boasts a huge array of LEGO T: 020-7403 2800. F11. Station: London Bridge.
FASHION merchandise, including a huge replica of Big Ben
made from bricks. New Mosaic Maker offers Twinings
Alexander McQueen This is one of the capitals oldest shops and is full of
shoppers young and old the chance to build a
A must for mens and womens fashions, this flagship teas and infusions. Mon-Fri 9.30am-8pm; Sat 10am-
boutique has the labels signature skull scarves. personalised LEGO portrait. www.lego.com/en-gb/
stores. 3 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7839 3480. 5pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand,
www.alexandermcqueen.co.uk. 4-5 Old Bond St, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.
W1S 4PD. T: 020-7355 0088. E7. Station: Green Park. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Burberry The Nickelodeon Store We Built This City


Find the Burberry London and Prorsum collections Products inspired by the TV channels shows. Quirky souvenirs where classic items are given a
featuring clothing for men, women and children Mon-Fri 10am-10pm; Sat 10am-11pm; Sun twist. Look out for maps and illustrations. Mon-Wed
(multiple locations). In-store monogramming available noon-6pm. www.nickelodeonstore.co.uk. 10am-7pm; Thur-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm.
on selected products at its Regent St store. 1 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. T: 020-3805 3460. www.webuiltthiscity.co.uk. 56-57 Carnaby St, W1F
www.burberry.com. 121 Regent Street, W1B 4TB. E7. Station: Leicester Square. 9QF. T: 020-3642 9650. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.
T: 020-7806 8904. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Hackett
Polos, sporting jackets, cords, suits and accessories
(multiple locations around London). www.hackett.
com. 193-197 Regent St, W1B 4LY. T: 020-7494 4917.
E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Juicy Couture
Find clothing, jewellery and accessories for women,
including contemporary casualwear. www.juicy
couture.com. 198 Regent St, W1B 5TP.
T: 020-7734 2413. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

River Island
Stylish, affordable fashion for men, women
and children. Look out for the Style Studio,
a personal shopper lounge with sofas and a bar.
www.riverisland.com. 473 Oxford St, W1C 3AU.
T: 0344-334 0506. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

JEWELLERY & WATCHES


Harry Winston
The king of diamond jewellery in London for more Diamonds are forever
DE BEERS IMAGE COURTESY OF DE BEERS

than 80 years. Discover the beautifully designed


gems loved by international royalty and Hollywoods Londons iconic jeweller, De Beers, has opened a new outlet in the world-famous
elite. www.harrywinston.com. 171 New Bond St, W1S department store Harrods (p. 55). Franois Delage, CEO of De Beers Diamond
4RD. T: 020-7907 8800. E6. Station: Bond Street. Jewellers, says: We have designed this new space with our local and international
Links of London clients in mind to fully express our brands uniqueness. Look out for the new
Beautifully crafted jewellery and watches with collection, which includes the DB Darling diamond engagement ring. If you want to
high-quality designs. www.linksoflondon.com. design your own bespoke ring, individually crafted by De Beers, visit one of the
491 Oxford St, W1A 2LR. T: 020-7491 2371. D5. private salons, where you can take advantage of the For you, Forever service.
Station: Bond Street.

56 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017

WL SEPT SHOPPING.indd 56 17/08/2017 12:25


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Is Just a Touch Away

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WL WHERE TRAVELLER.indd 1 15/08/2017 09:49


WDCWM_160400_0C2-007.indd 3 3/10/16 2:45:08 PM
SHOPPING
ORCHAR
D STREE

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58 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017

WL SEPT 2017 SHOPPING MAPS.indd 58 17/08/2017 12:52


SHOPPING

ADVER TORIAL

FALL IN LOVE ,
WITH LONDON S
FINEST DIAMONDS
Visit Hatton Garden and fall in love with Londons finest
collection of jewellery and diamonds

Nestled in the heart of Holborn and and stature, but of love and affection.
just a short taxi ride from Londons Today, the romance lives on and
West End, youll find the historical the Hatton Garden Jewellery Group is
area of Hatton Garden. Here youll a collection of eight stores in Hatton
discover one of Londons hidden Garden near Farringdon. Since
gems; a place steeped in history and the groups flagship store Beverley
romance since Queen Elizabeth I Hills Jewellers opened in 1987, the
gifted a house and garden in the family-owned brand has carved
grounds of Ely Palace to a handsome out a reputation for leading the
courtier in 1576. local market in truly British jewellery
By 1870, Hatton Garden had design including bespoke diamond
established an international pieces, coloured gemstones and
reputation as Londons jewellery remodelling of existing jewellery.
quarter and the UKs centre for So if youre looking to purchase a
diamonds. As the trend for more token of your love and affection for
extravagant and expensive items someone special in your life then look to
of jewellery grew, the demand for one of Hatton Garden Jewellery Groups
hand-made fine jewellery and stores to find your desired piece!
exquisite diamonds increased. For more information, please ask
The specialist jewellers in Hatton your Concierge for directions
Garden became famous for trading and visit any of our stores or call
diamonds, often shipping rare T: 020-7405 4847 and ask to
stones around the world as jewellery speak to the groups General
became a symbol of not only wealth Manager, Carolyn Jackson.

VISITORS OFFERED 30% DISCOUNT OFF RRP


(excluding pre-owned and sale goods)

www.wheretraveler.com 59

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SHOPPING
HYDE PARK
CORNER (0.3miles)
Rolex By
The Watch Gallery
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Mari Vanna GE
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Sloane Street &


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A TT R N
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SLOA T &
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E D BCBG Max Azria
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N
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The English Oak Collection For r LS N L.K.Bennett
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launches this month. Inspired by


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the smells of the forest, the range


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Catimini
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Reiss Elliot Rhodes


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includes a cologne, body wash, Thomas Sabo


NH
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body cream and, most famously, Neals Yard Remedies Hawes & Curtis Zara
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candles. The products come in oak Penhaligons


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and oak and redcurrant with


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Anthropologie
60 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017

WL SEPT 2017 SHOPPING MAPS.indd 60 17/08/2017 12:53


SHOPPING

SHOPPING ESSENTIALS
SIZING GUIDE
UK US Euro
WOMENS CLOTHES
XS 6 2 34
8 4 36
S
10 6 38
M
12 8 40
14 10 42
L 16 12 44

MENS CLOTHES (CHEST)


34 34 44
S
36 36 46
38 38 48
M
40 40 50
42 42 52
L
44 44 54

CHILDRENS CLOTHES
4-5yrs 4-5yrs 110cm
6-7 6-7 116-122
8-9 8-9 128-134
10-11 10 140-146
12-13 12 152-158
JB2602 WHERE London AUG RS LoRes.pdf 1 20/06/2017
14-15 15:48
13 164-170

TAX-FREE SHOPPING
Value Added Tax (VAT) is a
20% sales tax added on all goods
except food, books and childrens
clothing. Overseas visitors from
outside the EU can shop tax-free in
the UK, recouping some of the
cost of the item. Dont forget to ask
in-store for more information about
tax-free shopping.

CM
FEMALE SHOPPER COURTESY OF WESTFIELD; CARNABY STREET ISTOCK

MY

CY

CMY

Come and explore Hamleys Toy Shop!


With over 50,000 Toys across 7 floors!
Normal opening times for 188-196 Regent Street, London W1B 5BT
most shops are Mon-Sat
10am-6pm; Sun 11am-5pm
unless stated otherwise.
Some shops may stay open www.hamleys.com/explore #HAMLEYS
until 9pm on Thursdays for
late-night shopping.

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WL SEPT SHOPPING.indd 61 17/08/2017 12:37


DINING | THE GUIDE

Best of British
A new generation of chefs is breaking
boundaries, reveals Emma Levine
Its not only the plethora of Michelin-starred
restaurants in London that we can boast
about, but also the quality and quantity of
British chefs creating modern British cuisine.
Although theres a long list of stalwart chefs,
from Gordon Ramsay to Heston Blumenthal,
2010 was ground-breaking: three young British
chefs James Lowe, Ben Greeno and Isaac
McHale, who called themselves the Young
Turks hosted pop-up dinners to great acclaim.
Their philosophy was to use British ingredients
to create clean, flavoursome dishes.
Since then, their success has been immense:
McHale is head chef of east Londons
esteemed The Clove Club, and Lowe heads
up Michelin-starred Lyles. And there are many
more inspiring, passionate young chefs who
have worked their way up in the industry.
Add to that list Ollie Dabbous. He opened
the eponymous, boundary-breaking Dabbous
Top to bottom: in 2012, on Whitfield Street, which earned him
two plates at Magpie; a Michelin star. His latest restaurant is Henrietta,
cocktails at Henrietta; in Covent Garden, nestled in the boutique
a dish at Henrietta
hotel of the same name. Henrietta champions
British cuisine, and is part of a craze of pretty-
as-a-picture plates of petal-strewn dishes.
Here, chefs use a fresh, summery concept of
leaves, sprigs of fresh herbs and rainbow-hued
flowers in seasonal dishes: starters such as a
rich beef tartare with nasturtium, and grilled
flatbread with sesame labneh with blossoms.
Choose a main, perhaps seven-year grass-fed
Simmental sirloin with crushed green herbs.
A custard tart packed with raspberries and
pickled rose petals keeps the floral theme going
and is divine (14-15 Henrietta St, WC2E 8QH).

MAGPIE IMAGES COURTESY OF MAGPIE; HENRIETTA IMAGES COURTESY OF HENRIETTA


Another opening to look out for is Magpie,
from Sam Herlihy and James Ramsden. These
thirty-something chefs co-founded Pidgin, a
Michelin-starred supper club-turned-restaurant
in Hackney. Their new Mayfair offering is a
modern interpretation of a dim sum restaurant,
complete with trolleys laden with small plates,
wheeled around the dining room to each table.
Pick dishes to share, such as mackerel crudo
with fennel pollen, and grilled celeriac with
a watermelon barbecue sauce. Save space for
desserts, including strawberry panzanella with
olive oil ice cream. And to prove that the duo
have retained their fun side, theres a drinks
trolley with cocktails such as Smoke off the
Mountain, a rum-based Manhattan with
peated whisky (10 Heddon St, W1B 4BX).
With new restaurants such as these, it looks
like the British chefs will always make their
mark on the city whatever their age.

62 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017

WL SEPT DINING.indd 62 17/08/2017 12:55


FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (Tube), railway and Docklands Light Railway. B (breakfast), L (lunch), D (dinner). Prices per person
for three courses: : up to 25; : 25-40; : 40-80; : 80 +. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on map on p. 80-81

AMERICAS BRITISH (MODERN) Dinner by Heston Blumenthal


The superchef offers a menu influenced by historic
(NORTH & SOUTH) Aqua Shard British gastronomy. . Daily L & D; booking
Contemporary cuisine created from local produce essential. www.dinnerbyheston.com. Mandarin
Avenue matches the fantastic views at this slick restaurant Oriental Hyde Park, 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA.
Contemporary wining and dining Manhattan-style.
on The Shards 32nd floor. . Daily B, L & D. T: 020-7201 3833. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
. Mon-Fri B, L & D; Sat & Sun brunch; Sat D.
www.aquashard.co.uk. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY.
www.avenue-restaurant.co.uk. 7-9 St Jamess St,
T: 020-3011 1256. E10. Station: London Bridge. Fera at Claridges
SW1A 1EE. T: 020-7321 2111. E7. Station: Green Park. Enjoy creative British dishes from local, organic
Butlers Restaurant ingredients, served in a beautiful Art Deco
Gaucho Enjoy top English cuisine in an elegant Mayfair restaurant. . Daily L & D. www.claridges.
Succulent Argentine steaks, plus a wine bar and
restaurant, famed for its Dover sole. . Daily B, co.uk/fera. Claridges Hotel, Brook St, W1K 4HR.
entertainment. . Daily L & D (and branches).
L & D. www.chesterfieldmayfair.com. 35 Charles St, T: 020-7107 8888. E6. Station: Bond Street.
www.gauchorestaurants.co.uk. 25 Swallow St, W1B
W1J 5EB. T: 020-7491 2622. E6. Station: Green Park.
4QR. T: 020-7734 4040. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. Great Court Restaurant
Caxton Grill Enjoy lunch or afternoon tea above the huge
Goodman Superb selection of steaks cooked in the Josper museums iconic Reading Room. . Daily L;
Premium New York steakhouse with dry-aged US
grill, plus seafood dishes such as lobster with Fri D. www.britishmuseum.org. British Museum,
and British beef, plus dishes such as lobster tail
Hollandaise, in a stylish venue. . Daily L & D. Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8990.
with garlic butter. . Mon-Sat L & D. www.good
www.caxtongrill.co.uk. 2 Caxton St, SW1H 0QW. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.
manrestaurants.com. 26 Maddox St, W1S 1QH.
T: 020-7227 7777. F7. Station: St Jamess Park.
T: 020-7499 3776. E6. Station: Oxford Circus. Holborn Dining Room
Chenestons This smart brasserie adjoining the stylish
Hard Rock Cafe Rosewood hotel serves classic British dishes with
Intimate restaurant serving tasty dishes. . Daily
Londons original burger joint is more
B, L & D. www.milestonehotel.com. The Milestone a twist. . Daily B, L & D. www.holborndining
than 40 years old, and has lots of rock memorabilia,
Hotel, 1 Kensington Court, W8 5DL. T: 020-7917 room.com. 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN.
funky dcor and a fun atmosphere. . Daily L & D.
1000. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington. T: 020-3747 8633. D8. Station: Holborn.
www.hardrock.com. 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB.
T: 020-7514 1700. E8. Station: Hyde Park Corner. City Social Indigo
Jason Athertons award-winning restaurant and All-day restaurant serves excellent British dishes
Heliot Steak House bar boasts a creative menu and city views. . that are entirely gluten and dairy-free. -.
Hippodrome Casinos restaurant, over the main
Mon-Fri L & D, Sat D. www.citysociallondon.com. Daily B & D; Mon-Fri L. www.onealdwych.com.
gaming floor, serves British classics and USDA beef.
Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 One Aldwych hotel, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 1000.
. Daily L & D. www.hippodromecasino.com.
7703. D11. Station: Liverpool Street. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Leicester Square, 42-43 Cranbourn St, WC2H 7JH.
T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

JW Steakhouse
Top-quality steakhouse offering dry-aged prime
beef with a variety of sides, starters and toppings.
. Daily B, L & D. www.jwsteakhouse.co.uk.
Grosvenor House Hotel, 86 Park Lane, W1K 7TL.
T: 020-7399 8460. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Lima
Michelin-starred contemporary Peruvian cuisine.
. Tue-Sun L; daily D. www.limalondon.com.
31 Rathbone Place, W1T 1JH. T: 020-3002 2640.
D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Oblix
MAGPIE IMAGES COURTESY OF MAGPIE; HENRIETTA IMAGES COURTESY OF HENRIETTA

Sophisticated New York-style rotisserie/grill


with stunning views from the 32nd floor of The
Shard. . Daily L & D. www.oblixrestaurant.com.
31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-7268 6700. E10.
Station: London Bridge.

Planet Hollywood
This huge London branch has burgers,
pizzas and cocktails, plus movie memorabilia.
. Daily L & D (bar to 1am). www.planethollywood
london.com. 57-60 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QX.
T: 020-7287 1000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
A plum job
A stellar team from Sake no Hana, Yauatcha and Royal China is behind Mei Ume,
Rainforest Cafe the new Chinese and Japanese restaurant in Four Seasons Hotel London At Ten Trinity
Busy all-day dining in a mock rainforest Square. Like its name, which is inspired by Chinese and Japanese terms for plum blossom,
MEI UME PAUL WINCH-FURNESS

setting with animatronic animals and a family-friendly


there is also an Eastern influence in Mei Umes dcor. A hand-embroidered silk screen of
menu. -. Daily L & D. www.therainforest
cafe.co.uk. 20 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7EU. plum flowers hangs at the entrance, while artworks depicting traditional Chinese banquets
T: 020-7434 3111. E3. Station: Piccadilly Circus. dominate the walls. Highlights include spicy soft-shell crab and yellowtail carpaccio in
truffle sauce, although its signature dish is Peking duck crispy duck served with pancakes,
STK London
Dine on British and American prime steaks, with DJs leeks and cucumber. Theres also a private room for 14 and a bar with sake and whisky.
playing nightly. . Daily D. www.stkhouse.com. 10 Trinity Square, EC3N 4AJ. T: 020-3297 3799. www.meiume.com.
ME London Hotel, 336 Strand, WC2R 1HA. E11. Station: Tower Hill
T: 020-7395 3450. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

www.wheretraveler.com 63

WL SEPT DINING.indd 63 17/08/2017 12:56


DINING

Rex Whistler Restaurant Kai Mayfair The Ivy


Dine on dishes such as Gressingham duck breast Superior Michelin-starred cuisine with dishes such This fashionable venue is good for a late-night
in a dining room with a century-old mural. . as Kagoshima Wagyu beef. . Daily L & D. dinner. -. Daily L & D (last orders midnight).
Daily L. www.tate.org.uk. Tate Britain, Millbank, www.kaimayfair.co.uk. 65 South Audley St, W1K 2QU. www.the-ivy.co.uk. 1-5 West St, WC2H 9NQ.
SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8825. G8. Station: Pimlico. T: 020-7493 8988. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner. T: 020-7836 4751. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
St Pancras Grand Royal China Club OXO Tower
Tasty British brasserie-style dishes in an ornate This huge Cantonese restaurant is popular for Elegant restaurant on the Thames with stunning
dining room. -. Daily B, L & D. www.searcys. its dim sum, served at lunchtime, and crispy duck. views. . Daily L & D. www.oxotower.co.uk.
co.uk. Upper Concourse, St Pancras station, . Daily L & D. www.royalchinagroup.co.uk. OXO Tower Wharf, Barge House St, South Bank,
Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. 24-26 Baker St, W1U 3BZ (and branches). SE1 9PH. T: 020-7803 3888. E9. Station: Waterloo.
Station: Kings Cross St Pancras. T: 020-7487 4688. D6. Station: Baker Street.
Skylon
Stylish dining with river views, with dishes such as
BRITISH (TRADITIONAL) CONTEMPORARY spiced duck breast. . Daily L & D. www.skylon
Caf in the Crypt EUROPEAN -restaurant.co.uk. Royal Festival Hall, Belvedere Rd,
SE1 8XX. T: 020-7654 7800. E8. Station: Waterloo.
This vaulted caf serves homely English dishes.
You can dine in the courtyard during summer. .
1 Lombard Street
Hearty, modern cooking in this brasserie, a former Ting
Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun 11am-6pm. www.smitf.org. Superb restaurant in The Shards Shangri-La hotel
bank, with a huge glass dome. . Mon-Fri B,
St Martin-in-the-Fields, Trafalgar Square, WC2N
L & D. www.1lombardstreet.com. 1 Lombard St, serves dishes with an Asian twist. . Daily B, L &
4JJ. T: 020-7766 1158. D7. Station: Charing Cross.
EC3V 9AA. T: 020-7929 6611. D10. Station: Bank. D. www.shangri-la.com/london. 31 St Thomas St, SE1
The English Grill 9QU. T: 020-7234 8108. F10. Station: London Bridge.
New restaurant with ornate chandeliers and high The Delaunay
ceilings serving excellent grilled meats, plus daily This Theatreland venues interior and menu
are inspired by central Europes grand cafs.
FISH AND SEAFOOD
roasts. . Daily B, L, D. www.rubenshotel.com.
The Rubens at the Palace, 39 Buckingham Palace Rd, Specialities include kedgeree, schnitzels and J Sheekey
Frankfurter sausages. . Daily B, L & D. Chic seafood spot with an oyster and Champagne
SW1W 0PS. T: 020-7834 6600. F6. Station: Victoria.
www.thedelaunay.com. 55 Aldwych, WC2B 4BB. bar, plus seasonal game. . Daily L & D.
Mews of Mayfair T: 020-7499 8558. E8. Station: Temple. www.j-sheekey.co.uk. 28-35 St Martins Court, WC2N
An 18th-century mews house with a brasserie, 4AL. T: 020-7240 2565. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
lounge and cocktail bar, plus a cobbled courtyard. Galvin at Windows
. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.mewsofmayfair.com. Michelin-starred restaurant on Poppies
10 Lancashire Court, New Bond St, W1S 1EY. the 28th floor, with great views over the capital. Traditional fish and chip shop with 1950s dcor.
T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street. . Mon-Fri & Sun L; Mon-Sat D. www.galvin . Daily L & D. www.poppiesfishandchips.co.uk.
atwindows.com. Hilton on Park Lane, W1K 1BE. 55 Old Compton St, W1D 6HW. T: 020-7734 4845.
The Ritz Restaurant T: 020-7208 4021. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
Enjoy classic British dishes in a pretty dining
room, with top-notch service. Men should wear
a jacket and tie. . Daily B, L & D. www.theritz
london.com. The Ritz hotel, 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR.
T: 020-7300 2370. E6/7. Station: Green Park.

Serpentine Bar & Kitchen


Enjoy hearty dishes or a light lunch on a terrace
overlooking the Serpentine lake. . Daily B & L.
www.benugo.com/restaurants/serpentine-bar-
kitchen. Serpentine Rd, Hyde Park, W2 2UH.
T: 020-7706 8114. E5. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Sophies Steakhouse & Bar


Modern restaurant with roast beef, steaks and
terrine boards, plus a good pre-theatre menu.
. Daily L & D. www.sophiessteakhouse.co.uk.
311-313 Fulham Rd, SW10 9QH. T: 020-7352 0088.
Off map. Station: Gloucester Rd.

CHINESE
Bright Courtyard Club
Excellent Cantonese and Shanghai dishes, including
dim sum. . Daily L & D. www.brightcourtyard.
co.uk. 43-45 Baker St, W1U 8EW. T: 020-7486 6998. A super chef
D6. Station: Baker Street. After being a judge on the BBC series MasterChef, and a chef at Michel Roux Juniors
Chai Wu Michelin-starred restaurant Le Gavroche for 15 years, Monica Galetti has finally opened
Located in Harrods, this restaurant serves dishes her own restaurant: Mere (pronounced Mary). And its certainly worth the wait. The
PHOTO COURTESY OF MERE RESTAURANT

such as Wagyu beef, Alaskan king crab and Chilean Samoan-born Kiwi, together with her husband, sommelier David Galetti, has created a
sea bass (p. 68). . Daily L; Mon-Sat D (until 8pm).
sophisticated, elegant venue, featuring touches of her heritage courtesy of Samoan art
www.chaiwu.co.uk. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL.
T: 020-3819 8888. F5. Station: Knightsbridge. on the walls. The menu, of regularly changing seasonal dishes, is predominantly French
with South Pacific influences, such as John Dory with pan-fried mussels, lamb rump with
Hakkasan harissa and feta, and an intriguing tomato with smoked bacon and Marmite emulsion.
Stylish, Michelin-starred restaurant serving fusion
and traditional dishes. . Daily L & D; Thur-Sat Wine pairings are sublime, as youd expect, in this welcome addition to the heart of Fitzrovia.
last orders 12.30am. www.hakkasan.com. 8 Hanway 74 Charlotte St, W1T 4QH. T: 020-7268 6565. www.mere-restaurant.com.
Place, W1T 1HF (and Mayfair branch). T: 020-7927 D7. Station: Goodge Street
7000. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

64 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017

WL SEPT DINING.indd 64 18/08/2017 15:27


THREE OF THE VERY BEST
INDIAN RESTAUR ANTS

This award winning sophisticated


Indian Grill offers intense flavours
with an innovative twist, in a
theatrical open kitchen setting.
Michelin star.
Open for lunch and dinner seven days
a week.

Halkin Arcade, Motcomb Street


Knightsbridge, London SW1X 8JT
T: 020 7823 1166
E: amaya@realindianfood.com
Private dining room seats 14

The rich setting, interesting art


and romantic candle lighting
are secondary details in
Londons haven of great Indian
contemporary food.
Open for lunch and dinner seven days a
week; weekend brunch with live music.

73 St Jamess Street, London SW1A 1PH


T: 020 7629 6688
E: chutneymary@realindianfood.com
Two private dining rooms seat 30 and 16

Classical dishes, lovingly prepared


and beautifully served in sumptuous
surroundings overlooking Regent
Street. The oldest Indian restaurant
in the world.
Open for lunch and dinner seven days
a week.

Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 1st floor


99 Regent Street, London W1B 4RS
T: 020 7734 1401
E: veeraswamy@realindianfood.com
Private dining room seats 24

WL MW EAT.indd 1 11/08/2017 14:06


DINING

The Sea Shell Cleste The Thomas Cubitt


Enjoy hearty fish and chips, or pan-seared king Michelin-starred cuisine in a grand dining room. Classic dining room above a traditional bar, serving
scallops. . Mon-Sat L & D. www.seashell -. Daily B, L & D. www.lanesborough.com. top-quality British produce. . Daily L & D.
restaurant.co.uk. 49-51 Lisson Grove, NW1 6UH. The Lanesborough hotel, Hyde Park Corner, SW1X www.thethomascubitt.co.uk. 44 Elizabeth St,
T: 020-7224 9000. C5. Station: Marylebone. 7TA. T: 020-7259 5599. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner. SW1W 9PA. T: 020-7730 6060. G6. Station: Victoria.

The Wells
FRENCH Clos Maggiore
Exquisite dining room with a Bright and airy pub near Hampstead Heath
Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester cherry blossom-adorned conservatory. Theres serving seasonal British cuisine. . Daily L & D.
Phenomenal and innovative food from this an outstanding wine list, and dishes such as herb- www.thewellshampstead.co.uk. 30 Well Walk, NW3
world-famous Michelin-starred chef. . smoked whole rack of lamb. . Daily L & D. 1BX. T: 020-7794 3785. Off map. Station: Hampstead.
Tue-Fri L & D; Sat D. Booking essential. www.closmaggiore.com. 333 King St, WC2 8JD.
www.alainducasse-dorchester.com. The
Dorchester, Park Lane, W1K 1QA. T: 020-7629
T: 020-7379 9696. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
INDIAN
8866. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner. LEscargot
Amaya
Londons oldest French restaurant serves classic
Bistrot de Luxe This Michelin-starred venue serves dishes that are
dishes. . Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun L. www.le
This classic Parisian-style restaurant from full of exotic twists, cooked in its open grill kitchen.
scargot.co.uk. 48 Greek St, W1D 4EF. T: 020-7439
the Galvin brothers has superb, classic dishes. . Daily L & D. www.amaya.biz. Halkin Arcade,
7474. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
. Daily L & D. www.galvinrestaurants.com. Motcomb St, SW1X 8JT. T: 020-7823 1166. F6.
66 Baker St, W1U 7DJ. T: 020-7935 4007. D6. Sketch Station: Knightsbridge.
Station: Baker Street. Multiple restaurants under one roof, including
a stylish brasserie with artwork by David Shrigley,
Baluchi at the Lalit London
Brasserie Jol serving creative Frewnch-European cuisine. .
Majestic Indian restaurant in this five-star
This smart brasserie serves classics such as hotel in a Grade II-listed Victorian building. .
Daily B, L & D. www.sketch.uk.com. 9 Conduit St, W1S
tuna tartare. . Mon-Fri & Sun L & D; daily D. Daily B, L & D. www.thelalit.com. 181 Tooley St, SW1
2XG. T: 020-7659 4500. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.
www.brasseriejoel.co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster 2JR. T: 020-3765 0000. E11. Station: London Bridge.
Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7272. F8.
Benares
Station: Westminster. GASTROPUBS World-famous Michelin-starred chef Atul Kochhar
Brasserie Zdel The Grazing Goat creates modern Indian cuisine in this refined
Bustling French brasserie serving excellent value All-day dining, with seasonal dishes such as lamb restaurant. . Mon-Sat L & D, Sun D.
prix-fixe menus. -. Daily L & D. www.brasserie rump with tomato fregola. . Daily B, L & D. www.benaresrestaurant.com. 12a Berkeley Square
zedel.com. 20 Sherwood St, W1F 7ED. T: 020- www.thegrazinggoat.co.uk. 6 New Quebec St, W1H House, Berkeley Square, W1J 6BS. T: 020-7629
7734 4888. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. 7RQ. T: 020-7724 7243. D5. Station: Marble Arch. 8886. E6. Station: Green Park.

66 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017

WL SEPT DINING.indd 66 18/08/2017 15:25


DINING

Chutney Mary
Expect a gourmet tour of seven Indian regions in
The Cavendish
This timeless restaurant serves mains such as rabbit
ITALIAN
this glamorous restaurant, recently relocated. . ravioli and wild salmon with tapenade. -. Cicchetti
Mon-Fri B, L & D; Sat L & D. www.chutneymary. Daily L & D. 35 New Cavendish St, W1G 9TR. All-day dining with regional specialities to share
com. 73 St Jamess St, SW1 1PH. T: 020-7629 6688. www.35newcavendish.co.uk. T: 020-7487 3030. at this sophisticated restaurant. The beef meatballs
E7. Station: Green Park. C5. Station: Baker Street. and scallop gratin are particularly good. .
Daily B, L & D. www.sancarlocicchetti.co.uk.
Gaylord SushiSamba 30 Wellington St, WC2E 7BD (and Piccadilly branch).
Iconic Indian restaurant serving award-winning Japanese, Brazilian and Peruvian fusion cuisine at T: 020-7494 9435. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
sheekh kebabs and Mughal dishes. . Daily L & D. this rooftop terrace with 360-degree views across
www.gaylordlondon.com. 79-81 Mortimer St, W1W the capital. Try the anticuchos skewers cooked over Quattro Passi
7SJ. T: 020-7580 3615. D7. Station: Oxford Circus. a traditional robata grill or sea bass tempura. . Try the raw seafood bar or king prawn risotto at
Gymkhana Daily L & D. www.sushisamba.com. 38th Floor, this Michelin-starred venue. . Mon-Sat L & D.
This Michelin-starred venue, with a colonial style, 110 Bishopsgate, EC2N 4AY. T: 020-3640 7330. www.quattropassi.co.uk. 34 Dover St, W1S 4NG.
focuses on tandoori and charcoal grills. . Daily D11. Station: Liverpool Street. T: 020-3096 1444. E6. Station: Green Park.
L & D. www.gymkhanalondon.com. 42 Albemarle St,
W1S 4JH. T: 020-3011 5900. E6. Station: Green Park.

Khans of Kensington
Enjoy North Indian tandoor, fish and vegetarian
dishes. . Daily L & D. www.khansofkensington.
co.uk. 3 Harrington Rd, SW7 3ES. T: 020-7584 4114.
G4. Station: South Kensington.

La Porte des Indes A REAL TASTE OF INDIA


Dine in a former Edwardian ballroom for a taste
of colonial India, with French-Creole influences.
. Daily L & D. www.laportedesindes.com.
32 Bryanston St, W1H 7EG. T: 020-7224 0055.
D6. Station: Marble Arch.

Little India
This cosy venue specialises in dishes from Bengal,
including fish bhuna. . Daily L & D. www.little
indialondon.com. 32 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB.
T: 020-7584 3476. F4. Station: Gloucester Road.

Masala Zone
In this chain of vibrant restaurants, enjoy
great-value Indian street food, plus the flavour-
packed grand thali. . Daily L & D (and branches).
www.masalazone.com. 9 Marshall St, W1F 7ER.
T: 020-7287 9966. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Memories of India
Try authentic flavours from North India, with
specialities including spiced lamb. . Daily
L & D. www.memoriesofindia.com. 18 Gloucester
Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7589 6450. G4. Station:
Gloucester Road.

Mint Leaf
Contemporary Indian dishes in this stylish
restaurant. Try the grilled prawns with fenugreek.
. Mon-Fri L; daily D. www.mintleaflondon.com.
Suffolk Place, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HX. T: 020-7930
9020. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Tamarind
Michelin-starred take on Mughal cuisine is served
in a smart Mayfair dining room. . Daily L & D.
www.tamarindrestaurant.com. 20 Queen St, W1J
5PR. T: 020-7629 3561. E6. Station: Green Park.

Veeraswamy
This opulent Michelin-starred restaurant has stylish
cuisine from several regions of India. -.
Daily L & D. www.veeraswamy.com. Mezzanine
Floor, Victory House, 99 Regent St, W1B 4RS.
IMAGE COURTESY OF CAXTON GRILL

T: 020-7734 1401. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

INTERNATIONAL BAYSWATER, 75 BISHOPS BRIDGE RD CAMDEN, 25 PARKWAY


COVENT GARDEN, 48 FLORAL ST ISLINGTON, 80 UPPER ST
Bbar SOHO, 9 MARSHALL ST
SELFRIDGES 4TH FL, 400 OXFORD ST
Enjoy top-quality meat at this relaxed restaurant
EARLS COURT, 147 EARLS COURT ROAD M ASA LA ZO N E .COM
and bar, near Buckingham Palace. . Daily L & D.
www.bbarlondon.com. 43 Buckingham Palace Rd,
SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7958 7000. F6. Station: Victoria.

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DINING

Rossopomodoro
Enjoy Neapolitan food in an informal setting.
Momo
Decadent candlelit restaurant with Moroccan
SOUTH EAST ASIAN
. Daily L & D. www.rossopomodoro.co.uk. John dcor, serving mezze, couscous and tagine Chi Kitchen
Lewis, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX (and branches). dishes. . Daily L & D. www.momoresto.com. Pan-Asian cuisine in the department store
T: 020-7629 7711. D7. Station: Oxford Circus. 25 Heddon St, W1B 4BH. T: 020-7434 4040. Debenhams; see the chefs at work in an open-plan
E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. dining space. Try the dim sum or signature
Verdi Italian Kitchen Malaysian curries. . Daily B, L & D. www.chi
Dine on fresh Italian classics or enjoy afternoon Nopi
kitchen.co.uk. 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG.
tea, plus live music brunch at weekends. . Middle Eastern-inspired food from Yotam
T: 020-3841 6888. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Tue-Sun L & D. www.verdiitalian.com. Royal Ottolenghi with seasonal dishes to share in an
Albert Hall, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7070 4401. informal space. Try the courgette and manouri Mango Tree
F4. Station: South Kensington. fritters and twice-cooked baby chicken with Elegant fine dining with regional Thai cuisine, such
chilli jam -. Daily B & L; Mon-Sat D. www. as sea bass wrapped in banana leaf. -. Daily
JAPANESE & KOREAN nopi-restaurant.com. 21-22 Warwick St, W1B 5NE.
T: 020-7494 9584. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
L & D. www.mangotree.org.uk. 46 Grosvenor Place,
SW1X 7EQ. T: 020-7823 1888. F6. Station: Victoria.
Benihana
Yasmeen Thai Pot
Talented chefs create griddle-cooked dishes at
Authentic Lebanese cuisine in the heart of St
your table; try the Wagyu beef or miso black cod. This informal spot offers a huge range of
Johns Wood, with excellent mezze, charcoal-
. Daily L & D. www.benihana.co.uk. 37 Sackville good-value Thai dishes. . Mon-Sat L & D.
grilled meat and vegetarian dishes. There is also
St, W1S 3EH (and branches). T: 020-7494 2525. www.thaipot.biz. 1 Bedfordbury, WC2N 4BP.
outdoor seating. . Daily L & D. www.yasmeen
E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. T: 020-7379 4580. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
restaurant.com. 1 Blenheim Terrace, NW8 0EH.
Engawa T: 020-7624 2921. Off map. Station: St Johns Wood.
This refined Japanese restaurant has tasting SPANISH
menus, plus excellent Kobe beef in different RIVERSIDE El Pirata
cuts for you to choose from. . Daily L & D. This buzzing Mayfair bar-restaurant serves authentic
www.engawa.uk. 2 Ham Yard, W1D 7DT. Bateaux London
hot and cold tapas, including deep-fried monkfish
T: 020-7287 5724. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. Enjoy a cruise while dining on modern British
medallions and boquerones (anchovies in vinegar).
cuisine. . Daily L & D cruises; Sun jazz with
Nobu -. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.elpirata.co.uk.
three-course L. www.bateauxlondon.com.
Delicious sashimi, sushi and tempura from the 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AG. T: 020-7491 3810. E6.
Embankment Pier, WC2N 6NU. T: 020-7695
acclaimed Japanese chef Nobu Matsuhisa. . Station: Hyde Park Corner.
1800. E8. Station: Embankment.
Daily L & D. www.noburestaurants.com. 19 Old
The London Showboat Iberica Victoria
Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7447 4747. E6.
Drift down the River Thames while enjoying Traditional dishes are given a modern twist.
Station: Hyde Park Corner.
a four-course dinner. Nightly from 80 per person; -. Daily L & D. www.ibericarestaurants.com.
booking essential. Departs Westminster Pier 7.45pm. 5-6 Zig Zag Building, 68 Victoria St, SW1E 6SQ.
MIDDLE EASTERN, www.citycruises.com. Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JR. T: 020-3327 0200. F7. Station: Victoria.
GREEK & TURKISH T: 020-7740 0400. F8. Station: Westminster.
Moro
Elysee RS Hispaniola North Africa meets Spain in this Moorish
Since 1936, this family restaurant has been serving Delightful moored restaurant boat on the River restaurant, serving aromatic dishes with exotic
Greek dishes, from souvlaki to lamb cutlets. There Thames serving British dishes such as braised pork spices. The wood-roasted chicken with sage
is a roof terrace, shisha lounge and late licence. belly. Opt for the deck menu for a light bite. . labneh, farika and spiced chopped salad is
. Mon-Sat D. www.elyseerestaurant.com. Daily L & D. www.hispaniola.co.uk. Victoria excellent. . Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.moro.co.uk.
13 Percy St, W1T 1DP. T: 020-7636 4804. D7. Embankment/Hungerford Bridge, WC2N 5DJ. 34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE. T: 020-7833
Station: Tottenham Court Road. T: 020-7839 3011. E8. Station: Embankment. 8336. Off map. Station: Farringdon.

VEGETARIAN
Beefing it up The Gate
The latest branch has tasty dishes such
Nestled in the luxury store, Harrods, the as butternut rotolo. . Daily B, L & D. www.the
very finest Chinese cuisine is served up gaterestaurants.com. 22-24 Seymour Place, W1H
in tranquil, contemporary surroundings 7NL. T: 020-7724 6656. D5. Station: Marble Arch.
at Chai Wu (p. 64). Whether sitting up at
Mildreds
the marble counter that overlooks the This comfortable, informal Soho institution has
kitchen and its charcoal grill, or at a hearty meat-free dishes, such as wild mushroom
quiet table away from the action, the and ale pie. . Mon-Sat L & D. www.mildreds.
dishes here are a class apart. Thats no co.uk. 45 Lexington St, W1F 9AN. T: 020-7494
surprise, bearing in mind its executive 1634. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
chef is Ian Pengelley, a renowned Tibits
expert in Asian cuisine. The Wagyu At the buffet counter, help yourself to crunchy
tomahawk beef comes to your table in salads, hot dishes and healthy puddings and pay
succulent slices, a melt-in-the-mouth by plate weight. . Daily B, L & D. www.tibits.co.uk.
12-14 Heddon St, off Regent St, W1B 4DA.
delight, and alongside dishes such as
CHAI WU COURTESY OF CHAI WU

T: 020-7758 4110. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.


lobster noodles. You could opt for
Peking duck, also carved at your table, Woodlands
or the roast duck with black truffle. Even Tasty cuisine from all over India. Enjoy dishes
such as Mysore dosas, hearty thalis and cashew
though you are dining in the hub of
pakoras. -. Daily L & D. www.woodlands
Knightsbridge, it seems like youve restaurant.co.uk. 77 Marylebone Lane, W1U 2PS
been transported to the heart of China. (and branches). T: 020-7486 3862. D6.
Station: Bond Street.

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Time for tea
For the quintessential English experience, BRIGHT COURTYARD CLUB
stop for an afternoon tea with a twist
restaurant lounge events
Bright Courtyard Club is a contemporary Chinese restaurant situated in
the landmark building, 55 Baker Street.

Sophisticated, fashionable yet discreet, we are definitely the ideal venue for your
important lunch meeting, tranquil afternoon tea or full-filled dinner party.

BCY offer our guests an all-day grazing experience, specializing in authentic dim sum,
modern Cantonese and traditional Shanghai cuisine with a twist.

The Three private suites can accommodate 8 to 20 guests. Our glass-roofed courtyard
lounge can accommodate 200 seated or 250 standing.

Its time to plan your Christmas party either for your family or company. Set menus
ROSEWOOD LONDON are available for inquiry. Our experienced event organising team will give the
If you want holiday pictures to make your highest levels of dedication and attention to detail.
friends envious, visit the Rosewood London
for food that is too pretty to eat. In the
stunning Mirror Room, the picture-perfect 43-45 Baker Street London W1U 8EW
afternoon tea is inspired by the capitals t: 020 7486 6998 www.brightcourtyard.co.uk
vibrant art scene. After delicate sandwiches,
get arty: savour milk chocolate mousse and
passion fruit crmeux inspired by Japanese
sculptor Yayoi Kusama; white chocolate tart
with cassis jelly and coloured spots of gel,
themed on Damien Hirsts pharmaceutical-
style works; and a tiny replica of Banksys girl
with a balloon on a white chocolate cube.
252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747
8620. www.rosewoodhotels.com

AQUAVIT
Its time to venture to Scandinavia, and
to Aquavit (above) in St Jamess Market. Set
out like a grand European caf, with dark
wood furnishings and high ceilings, its Nordic
afternoon tea brings to you a smrrebrd
THE ENGLISH GRILL
which literally translates as a platter of English Tradition, Dining and Design at its Finest
bread with toppings with gravlax tartare,
shrimp skagen, liver pat and venison tartare.
St Jamess Market, 1 Carlton St,
SW1Y 4QQ. T: 020-7024 9848.
www.aquavitrestaurants.com
The English Gri
AMETSA WITH ARZAK
INSTRUCTION
The typical English afternoon tea is given
a Spanish twist at Michelin-starred Ametsa
with Arzak Instruction, at Como the Halkin
hotel, which brings in elements of Basque
cuisine. Enjoy an array of divine savoury
TEA IMAGE COURTESY OF AQUAVIT

tapas, perhaps with duck and shallot skewers,


green pea cuajada and ham croquettes.
Sweet treats take a Mediterranean slant:
orange toast with spinach and quince balls.
You could opt for tea, and treat yourself The Rubens at The Palace
to bubbly Cava, of course.
39 Buckingham Palace Road, London, SW1W 0PS
Halkin St, SW1X 7DJ. T: 020-7333 1000.
Telephone: +44 (0)20 7834 6600 | rubenshotel.com
www.comohotels.com

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WL SEPT DINING.indd 69 17/08/2017 13:05


W H E R E L O N D O N P R O M O T I O N

BEST OF LONDON DINING


Little India
One of the few Indian restaurants owned and managed by a lady. Why
not come and try our signature dish Naga Chicken cooked in spices
and a naga chilli and tossed dry, as well as this we pride ourselves in
traditional home style cooking. Come and enjoy a truly unique and
memorable dining experience whilst indulging yourself in the real
taste of fine Indian cuisine.
Open 7 days a week Monday to Saturday, noon till 11.30pm and
Sunday noon till 11pm. Dinner reservations are strongly recommended
as Little India is really little! Perfectly located near The Royal Albert Hall,
Harrods, Kensington Palace and the Natural History Museum.

32 Gloucester Road, SW7 4RB


T: 020-7584 3476/020 7589 9315
Memories of India www.littleindialondon.com Station: Gloucester Road
At Memories of India you can explore and experience the many
varied tastes of India, with traditional and creative Indian dishes
with a twist of ingenuity. Relax and let the team of award-winning
chefs take your taste buds on an exotic trip and an unforgettable
dining experience. The dishes here contain the finest ingredients
in order to create the uncompromising flavours of India. We have
a private room for parties and corporate functions.
Mon-Sat noon-11.30pm; Sun noon-11pm.

18 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB.


T: 020-7589 6450/020-7581 3734.
www.memoriesofindia.com.
Station: Gloucester Road.

Chai Wu
Chai Wu is a contemporary Chinese restaurant, located on the
Fifth Floor of the iconic department store, Harrods, in Knightsbridge.
The restaurant design incorporates the five elements of Chinese
philosophy: wood, metal, water, earth and fire, creating an elegant,
opulent and welcoming dining setting.
The tasty, exotic and colourful dishes reflect the finest of modern
Chinese cuisine. The menu consists of small dishes such as black
truffle sour soup and Chilean sea bass dumpling with gold leaf, as
well as luxurious dishes including Beijing duck and Wagyu steak.
Mon-Sat 12noon-9pm (last orders 8.30pm); Sun 12noon-6pm (last
orders 5.15pm).
Fifth Floor, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL.
Cafe in the Courtyard T: 020-3819 8888. www.chaiwu.co.uk. Station: Knightsbridge

St Martin-in-the-Fields
Take a break from a busy day of sightseeing and enjoy some
London sunshine at Caf in the Courtyard. This seasonal outdoor
caf is located in the terrace just behind the church of St Martin-
in-the-Fields, Trafalgar Square. Open daily from 8am (11am on
Saturdays and Sundays), Caf in the Courtyard serves a delightful
range of hot and cold drinks, pastries, snacks, baguettes, salads and
soup throughout the day and in the evening there are scrumptious
platters to share and a full wine list. Visit the website for special
offers and opening hours.
Caf in the Courtyard, St Martin-in-the-Fields, WC2N 4JJ
Station: Charing Cross Email: caf@smitf.org www.smitf.org

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W H E R E L O N D O N P R O M O T I O N

BEST OF LONDON DINING


Chi Kitchen
Chi Kitchen is a contemporary Pan-Asian restaurant offering tasty,
colourful and exotic dishes that are both MSG-free and halal. The
open-plan restaurant lets guests watch the chefs at work, as they
prepare Thai, Chinese, Malaysian, Japanese, Vietnamese and Korean
cuisine. With such a wide selection of delicious dishes to choose
from, Chi Kitchen promises to take diners on a unique culinary
journey through South-East Asia.
Mention Where London when booking, and enjoy a complimentary
glass of Champagne when you buy any main meal.

Ground Floor Debenhams (Henrietta Place entrance),


334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888.
www.chikitchen.co.uk. Station: Oxford Circus
El Pirata
For more than 20 years, El Pirata has hit the spot as Londons top
restaurant for traditional Spanish tapas. Located in the heart of
Mayfair, its the perfect place for a true taste of the Mediterranean
in a chic yet friendly setting. Informal, inexpensive and, above all,
authentic the restaurant uses the finest Spanish produce, including
jamn ibrico, to create its classic dishes. Celebrity fans include Brian
May and Johnny Depp, and food critics are unanimous in their praise,
describing it as a Spanish gem (Zagat) with surprisingly good prices
(Hardens), and a favourite with Mayfairs Spanish community and
converts to the new Iberian cause (Square Meal ).
Mon-Fri noon-11.30pm; Sat 6pm-11.30pm; closed Sun.
5-6 Down St, W1J 7AQ.
T: 020-7491 3810/7409 1315. www.elpirata.co.uk.
Station: Hyde Park Corner/Green Park

Gaylord
The quality and variety of the finest curry served at Gaylord on
Mortimer Street (near the West End and Oxford Street) draws foodies
of all nationalities from miles away. The traditional silver thali (below)
transports you to unforgettable Indian experience with the right
spices. The restaurant, which has been a British Curry Award finalist,
has been serving authentic Indian food since 1966.
Gaylord is a brand recognised by many as an institution
it is where many people were taken by their parents or grandparents
for their first taste of the finest curry. Today, 70 years later, the iconic
brand is now headed up by Sunil and Dhruv Lamba, and the
company has gone from strength to strength.
79-81 Mortimer St, W1W 7SJ. T: 020-7580 3615.
www.gaylordlondon.com. Station: Oxford Circus
Mango Tree
Mango Tree, situated in the heart of Belgravia, offers exquisite Thai
cuisine and world-renowned hospitality in a modern and stylish setting.
It uses only the finest ingredients sourced from the best suppliers.
Enjoy genuine Thai dishes from the four main culinary regions: rich and
mild dishes from the north; spicy food from the east; mild, Chinese-style
dishes from the central region, and hot and spicy food from the south.
Mention Where London when booking, and enjoy a complimentary
glass of Champagne with any main meal at Mango Tree Belgravia.
Monday-Wednesday 12noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm; Sat 12noon-2.30pm,
6pm-11.30pm; Sun 12noon-10.30pm.
46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ. Station:Victoria/Hyde Park Corner.
Also in Harrods: 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL.
T: 020-7823 1888. www.mangotree.org.uk.
Twitter @MangoTreeLondon. Email: info@mangotree.org.uk

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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE
This image: Holborn Dining Rooms
Gin Bar Below: a cocktail at The Distillery

Clockwise from left:


Nightjar; The Jazz Caf;
Ronnie Scotts; Savoy

Talking all that jazz


Emma Levine puts on her dancing shoes and heads to some of the best jazz clubs in the capital

With established 50-year-old venues Pull up a seat and enjoy cocktails, dessert or
and many more young, pioneering ones, even dinner as she croons some jazz classics
London is a big player on the world jazz (Strand, WC2R 0EU).
scene. It might be a dark, brick-walled Get your dancing shoes on for Nightjar
basement club, reminiscent of New Orleans (p. 74), for an old-school speakeasy style. Soak
jazz clubs, or perhaps its a well-oiled machine in the 1920s ambience and sit down at a tiny
with superb acoustics and red leather seats candlelit table, where your orders are taken for
with table service. Whatever your preference, drinks and food theres no queuing up at a

RONNIE SCOTTS COURTESY OF RONNIE SCOTTS; SAVOY STEVE LANCEFIELD


though, jazz fans are well catered for. crowded bar here. Jazz, blues or swing bands
Step back in time to Londons most famous play nightly, and weekends see late sets after
jazz venue Ronnie Scotts (p. 53 ), which has midnight. You should book a table in advance.
been going strong since 1959. Its named Highlight: Benoit Viellefon Quintet (9 Sep).
THE JAZZ CAF JAKE DAVIS; NIGHTJAR REBECCA LITTLE;

after the late saxophonist Ronnie Scott, who, Rather than a sultry, slinky feel, Camden Town
inspired by New York clubs of the 1950s, favourite The Jazz Caf (5 Parkway, NW1 7PG)
opened a basement venue in Soho where has more of a nightclub feel, especially at its
local musicians could jam. The club has played DJ club nights Night Thing (Fri) and Soul City
host to many faces, including Miles Davis, (Sat). Amy Winehouse played here Camden
Charlie Parker and Cleo Laine, and todays was her stomping ground as did Adele and
big names ensure the venue is filled nightly. Bobby Womack, and since 2016 a revamp and
The less formal Upstairs@Ronnies bar and class theyre held in the magnificent Thames technical upgrade has given the venue a fresh
club is open until 3am, with events ranging Foyer, which is flooded with natural light from look. Come here to see rising stars, but enjoy the
from jive nights to poetry slams and samba. the glass-domed atrium (above). Resident heavy emphasis on funk, soul and RnB. You can
Highlight: Saluting Sgt Pepper with Django singer Nicola Emmanuel comes from an dance in the downstairs standing area, or sit
Bates and the Frankfurt Radio Big Band (4-9 Sep). impressive jazz dynasty her parents are in in the restaurant for a great view of the stage.
At the Savoy hotel, the Thursday and Friday the South African Hall of Fame and here Highlight: Tony Allen The Source Album
night Savoy Sessions offer a touch of real shes accompanied by piano and double bass. Launch (22 Sep).

72 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017

WL SEPT NIGHTLIFE.indd 72 17/08/2017 13:10


FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

Most bars are open 11am-11pm, most nightclubs are open 10pm-3am. The UKs legal drinking age is 18.
ID may be required. T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (Tube) stations, Railway and
Docklands Light Railway. References near end of listings (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map on p. 80-81

The Guinea 68 & Boston


Site of an inn since 1423, this was where wealthy Sophisticated Soho venue with separate cocktail
Mayfairs stable hands and servants used to drink. and wine bars. The ground-floor bar boasts wine
www.theguinea.co.uk. 30 Bruton Place, W1J 6NL. from lesser-known regions, including Uruguay,
T: 020-7409 1728. E6. Station: Bond Street. and all bottles are just 20. Nightly food menu.
www.68andboston.com. 5 Greek St, W1D 4DD.
The Magpie & Stump T: 020-7287 3713. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
This pub, opposite the Old Bailey, dates back
to the 1500s, and once doubled up as a public
The Bar at Bellamys
viewing spot for hangings at Newgate Prison.
Classic cocktails and wines are served in a
www.magpieandstump.com. 18 Old Bailey,
classic setting, which is decorated with vintage
EC4M 7EP. T: 020-7248 5085. B8. Station: St Pauls.
ski posters. www.bellamysrestaurant.co.uk.
The Spaniards Inn 18/18a Bruton Place, W1J 6LY. T: 020-7491 2727.
Follow in the footsteps of past regulars, including E6. Station: Oxford Circus.
highwayman Dick Turpin and novelist Charles
Booking Office Bar
Dickens, at the historic pub, which is one of the
The ground floor of the St Pancras Renaissance
oldest in London. www.thespaniardshampstead.
Hotel has a 29m-long bar surrounded by cavernous
co.uk. Spaniards Rd, NW3 7JJ. T: 020-8731 8406.
arched ceilings. Tasty bar snacks. www.booking
Off map. Station: Hampstead.
officebar.com. Euston Rd, NW1 2AR. T: 020-7841
Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese 3566. C7. Station: Kings Cross St Pancras.
This landmark pub has wood-panelled walls
Burlock
and vaults that are thought to date back to
Rum is definitely the spirit of choice, in this relaxed
a 13th-century Carmelite monastery which
bar that specialises in many types of cocktails with
once stood here. 145 Fleet St, EC4A 2BU.
the Caribbean drink plus unusual ingredients.
T: 020-7353 6170. D9. Station: Blackfriars.
www.burlocklondon.co.uk. 31 Duke St, W1U 1LG.

BARS & CLUBS T: 020-7935 3303. D6. Station: Bond Street.

The Back Room BYOC


Next to Hard Rock, the bar boasts vintage and At this stylish Bring Your Own Cocktail venue
iconic music items, including a door from the with a 1920s casino theme, pay 30, bring a spirit
Apple Studios signed by the Beatles. Enjoy cocktails, of your choice and the mixologist will create your
pizzas and a great vibe. www.hardrock.com. drink. Booking is advisable. www.byoc.co.uk. 9-11
TRADITIONAL PUBS 148b Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700.
E6. Station: Green Park.
Basement, Camden High St, NW1 7JE. T: 020-3441
2424. Off map. Station: Mornington Crescent.
The Blackfriar
This Grade II-listed Art Nouveau pub, which is more
than a century old, offers cask ales. www.nicholsons
Top
Pick
pubs.co.uk. 174 Queen Victoria St, EC4V 4EG.
T: 020-7236 5474. E9. Station: Blackfriars.

Cittie of Yorke
The dark nooks and crannies, rafted roof and
chimney-less fire in this Grade II-listed building
take you back to 1430. 22 High Holborn, WC1 6BN.
T: 020-7242 7670. D9. Station: Chancery Lane.

The Dog and Duck


A real-ale pub with regularly changing cask beers,
RONNIE SCOTTS COURTESY OF RONNIE SCOTTS; SAVOY STEVE LANCEFIELD

as well as pub food and bar snacks. www.nicholsons


pubs.co.uk. 18 Bateman St, W1D 3AJ. T: 020-7494
0697. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Flask
This 17th-century pub boasts Byron and Shelley
as past patrons and is allegedly haunted. www.the
flaskhighgate.com. 77 Highgate West Hill, N6 6BU.
T: 020-8348 7346. Off map. Station: Highgate.

The French House


Get shaken, not stirred
DUKES BAR COURTESY OF DUKES HOTEL

Its like a glamorous movie set at Dukes Bar the ultimate in understated elegance, with
No music, TV or mobile phones make this cosy
Soho pub a real gem. www.frenchhousesoho.com. forest-green armchairs and portrait-lined walls. This was a watering hole of Bond author Ian
49 Dean St, W1D 5BG. T: 020-7437 2477. D7. Fleming, and reputedly where he coined the phrase shaken, not stirred. Lemons from the
Station: Tottenham Court Rd. Amalfi coast sit on the bar, casting a citrus aroma. Its the place for martini aficionados, with
Alessandro Palazzi running the show. A wooden trolley, dating from 1908, is wheeled to your
The George Inn
This historic pub was established during the table with chilled martini glasses and an array of organic spirits, and your cocktail is mixed
medieval period and still retains its original before you. Fancy mixologists may wish to impress, but this is the place for a timeless classic.
coaching houses. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ Dukes Hotel, 35 St Jamess Place, SW1A 1NY. T: 020-7491 4840. www.dukeshotel.com.
george-inn. 75-77 Borough High St, SE1 1NH. E7. Station: Green Park
T: 020-7407 2056. E10. Station: London Bridge.

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NIGHTLIFE

One New Change Champagne Bar

Flying high Located near St Pauls Cathedral, this stunning bar


boasts a huge selection of bubbly, plus Champagne
cocktails and premium beers (various branches
Tucked away down a cobbled
around London). www.searcyschampagnebars.
mews in Mayfair, theres a smart
co.uk. 1/F One New Change, EC4M 9AF. T: 020-
refurbishment at the bar at Hush 7871 1213. D10. Station: St Pauls.
restaurant. Boasting a new menu
Opium Cocktail Bar
thats designed to look like
This stylish upstairs bar tucked away in Chinatown,
a book of boarding passes, in the style of an old Shangai bar, serves innovative
Aviator at Hush takes you on a Chinese-inspired cocktails. Booking recommended.
global trip with its travel-themed www.opiumchinatown.com. 15 Gerrard St, W1D 6JE.
cocktails. Try a US-inspired T: 020-7734 7276. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Down the Bayou (rye, chocolate Oriole


liqueur, orange curacao), or fly Spacious cocktail bar hidden beneath Smithfield
Market, with live jazz and blues most nights.
south to Mexico for a Taco
Beautiful interiors, and drinks inspired by the Old
Tuesday (tequila, chilli, grapefruit World, New World and Orient. www.oriolebar.com.
juice). Presentation rules at this Smithfield Markets, East Poultry Avenue, EC1A 9LH.
award-winning bar, where you T: 020-3457 8099. D9. Station: Farringdon.
might drink out of a glass skull, a Primo Bar
lightbulb or even a tiny bathtub. Sumptuous, modern cocktail bar with live music
8 Lancashire Court, off and afternoon tea, plus a VIP area with river views.
Try the Asian-inspired cocktails. www.primobar.
Brook St, W1S 1EY. T: 020-
co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT.
7659 1500. www.hush.co.uk. T: 020-7620 7282. F8. Station: Waterloo.
E6. Station: Bond Street
Reverend J W Simpson
This cocktail bar is a real slice of shabby chic
Cartizze Bar Good Godfreys and is the genuine ex-abode of the good
Timeless Bellini and cocktail destination with Art Old-style glamour and classic cocktails are served Reverend, proved by the blue plaque outside.
Deco oak panelling and leather-topped bar stools. with a hint of history at this suave establishment. Scruffy sofas and a laid-back vibe are its hallmark.
www.cartizzebar.com. 4 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. Try the Astor Hip Flask cocktail. www.waldorf www.revjwsimpson.com. 32 Goodge St, W1T 2QJ.
T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street. hilton.co.uk. The Waldorf Hilton, Aldwych, WC2B T: 020-3174 1155. E7. Station: Goodge Street.
4DD. T: 020-7836 2400. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
C.O.L.D Bar Scarfes Bar
(The City of London Distillery) Gordons Wine Bar Part of the luxury hotel Rosewood London, this bar is
A retro-styled cocktail bar that overlooks the copper Londons oldest wine bar has been named after Gerald Scarfe, the cartoonist famous for
stills of the distillery. Try tastings, classes and tours, uncorking bottles from around the world since his satirical illustrations (p. 14). Enjoy Indian-inspired
including an Evolution of Gin tour. www.cityof 1890 in its stone-walled basement. Well-priced snacks. www.scarfesbar.com. 252 High Holborn,
londondistillery.com. 22-24 Bride Lane, EC4Y 8DT. pub food, including cheese plates. Its usually WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8611. D8. Station: Holborn.
T: 020-7936 3446. D9. Station: Blackfriars. crowded. www.gordonswinebar.com. 47 Villiers
St, WC2N 6NE. T: 020-7930 1408. E8.
Six Storeys
Dirty Martini Station: Embankment/Charing Cross.
Bohemian, decadent bar in a Soho townhouse,
With deluxe banquettes and a quirky layout, this split over six levels, where creative cocktails are
cocktail bar is a hit for its extensive list of martinis. Hixter Bankside its speciality. www.sixstoreys.com. 11 Soho Square,
Mon-Sat 4pm-late. Multiple branches. www.dirty Restaurateur Mark Hixs bar shows his trademark W1D 3QE. T: 020-3504 7381. D7. Station:
martini.uk.com. 10c Hanover Square, W1S 1JH. interest in modern art see an installation by Tottenham Court Road.
T: 020-7632 2087. D6. Station: Oxford Circus. Helen Chadwick that replicates a London Tube
carriage. www.hixrestaurants.co.uk. 16
Social Wine & Tapas
The Draft House Great Guildford St, SE1 0HS. T: 020-7921
Acclaimed restaurateur Jason
Fabulous draft beers from around the world, served Athertons stylish wine bar and
9508. E9. Station: Southwark.
in one-third pint glasses (and larger), perfect for restaurant has counter and table-
discovering your favourite. www.drafthouse.co.uk. The Met Bar served tapas. There is also a
206-208 Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7378 This famous bar in the Metropolitan John Keats wrote magnificent wine shop upstairs.
9995. E11. Station: London Bridge/Tower Hill. Hotel has an extensive wine list, his poem Ode to www.jasonatherton.co.uk.
vintage Champagne by the glass and
a Nightingale in 39 James St, W1U 1DL. T: 020-7993
Drakes Tabanco cocktails, plus a British food menu.
The Spaniards Inn 3257. D6. Station: Bond Street.
FORBIDDEN CITY COCKTAIL COURTESY OF AVIATOR AT HUSH

A Spanish-style bar serving rare sherries aged in Hampstead


www.metbar.co.uk. 19 Old Park Lane,
in ancient oak barrels. There are also craft beers, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7447 1000. Off map.
St Pancras Champagne Bar
a range of natural wines and tapas. www.drakes Europes longest Champagne bar takes
Station: Hyde Park Corner.
tabanco.com. 3 Windmill St, W1T 2HY. T: 020-7637 pride of place in the graceful station where the Paris
9388. D7. Station: Goodge Street. Nightjar Eurostar arrives. There are leather banquettes and
Old-school glamour and Prohibition-era cocktails call buttons to summon a waiter to refill your glasses.
Freedom are the signature of this basement hangout. Live www.searcyschampagnebars.co.uk. St Pancras
This gay-friendly venue attracts a trendy crowd to music from the jazz golden age adds a touch of style International, Upper Concourse, Euston Rd,
its stylish cocktail bar and nightclub. www.freedom (p. 72). www.barnightjar.com. 129 City Rd, EC1V 1JB. N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station:
barsoho.com. 60-66 Wardour St, W1F 0TA. T: 020- T: 020-7253 4101. C10. Station: Old Street. Kings Cross St Pancras.
7734 0071. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Old Bengal Bar Trader Vics
Gong Converted from an East India Co warehouse, This Tiki-style bar and restaurant is more than
Located in The Shard, Gong is the this atmospheric venue has a dark interior, 50 years old. The menu has rum-laced cocktails
highest Champagne bar in London and the ideal original brick walls, wooden beams and leather try the Mai Tai cocktail in this exotic setting.
place for sunset cocktails and late-night drinks. banquettes. www.oldbengalbar.com. 16 New www.tradervicslondon.com. London Hilton on
www.shangri-la.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. St, EC2M 4TR. T: 020-3503 0780. D11. Station: Park Lane, 22 Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208
T: 020-7234 8000. F10. Station: London Bridge. Liverpool Street. 4113. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

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NIGHTLIFE

Traders Wine Bar The 100 Club 606 Club


Sample wines from around the globe in this Famous basement music venue with rock and A relaxed members jazz cellar and restaurant, which
intimate venue, along with boards of cured meats blues bands, plus DJ and club nights. www.the100 has been run by musician Steve Rubie for more than
and cheeses. www.traderswine.co.uk. Ivory House, club.co.uk. 100 Oxford St, W1D 1LL. T: 020-7636 30 years, The venue specialises in British-based
Central Basin, St Katharine Docks, E1W 1AT. 0933. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road. artists, playing blues, rnb and soul. www.606club.
T: 020-7481 3796. Off map. Station: Tower Hill. co.uk. 90 Lots Rd, SW10 0QD. T: 020-7352 5953.
Ronnie Scotts Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.
Waxy OConnors World-famous jazz venue with a bar and restaurant.
Long-standing, huge Irish bar, comprising four The weekly Sunday Jazz lunch has no minimum Stringfellows Gentlemans Club
bars over six levels. It shows Irelands major age, which makes it good for families. Live acts Over many years, celebrities and the public have
sporting events on big screens. www.waxy every night (p. 72), plus Sat and Sun lunchtimes. enjoyed a memorable night of entertainment
oconnors.co.uk. 14-16 Rupert St, W1D 6DD. More intimate gigs upstairs every Wed. Reservations supplied by more than 80 Angels dancing at
T: 020-7287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
highly recommended. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. their tables. Free entry when dining. www.string
47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. fellows.com. 16-19 Upper St Martins Lane, WC2H
The Zetter Townhouse Station: Tottenham Court Road. 9EF. T: 020-7240 5534. E8. Station: Leicester Square.
Tony Conigliaro, known for his groundbreaking
cocktails, brings his mixology magic to this intimate
cocktail lounge. www.thezettertownhouse.com.
49-50 St Johns Square, EC1V 4JJ. T: 020-7324 4545.
Off map. Station: Farringdon.

CASINOS
The Casino at the Empire
There is a dedicated poker room and the latest
table and electronic games at this spectacular
venue, housing a contemporary Asian restaurant
and several bars. www.thecasinolsq.com.
5-6 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. T: 020-3733
1315. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Grosvenor Gloucester Casino


A vibrant and friendly casino offering a wide choice
of gaming facilities, plus a late-night bar and relaxed
restaurant. Open 24 hours. www.grosvenor
casinos.com. 4-18 Harrington Gardens, SW7 4LJ.
T: 020-7373 7134. G4. Station: Gloucester Road.

The Sportsman Casino


This club combines the best in traditional and
electronic gaming, informal dining, a poker lounge,
sports bar and a charming restaurant. www.the
sportsmancasino.com. Old Quebec St, W1H 7AF.
T: 020-3642 8531. D6. Station: Marble Arch.

LIVE ENTERTAINMENT
The Blues Kitchen
This busy venue stages nightly blues, soul and jazz,
plus a DJ at weekends. Dozens of varieties of
bourbon and rye, plus Cajun comfort food. www.the
blueskitchen.com. 111 Camden High St, NW1 7JN.
T: 020-7387 5277. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

Bunga Bunga
Part restaurant, part bar with live entertainment,
this Covent Garden venue has all the makings
of a theatrical night out, with live cabaret acts.
www.bungabunga-london.com. 167 Drury Lane,
WC2B 5PG. T: 020-7590 3602. D8. Station: Holborn.
FORBIDDEN CITY COCKTAIL COURTESY OF AVIATOR AT HUSH

The Comedy Store


One of the countrys best venues for stand-up
and improvised comedy, where many of Britains
comedians made their mark. Regular stand-up
and late-night shows. www.thecomedy store.
co.uk. 1a Oxendon St, SW1Y 4EE. T: 0844-871
7699. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

London Cabaret Club


Cabaret gets a modern twist at this unique club
within the Bloomsbury Ballroom. Best of British
Pop is crammed with chart-toppers from the 1960s
to the present day, fusing dance, acrobatics and
theatre on stage. Dinner and VIP tickets available.
www.thelondoncabaretclub.com. Victoria House,
Bloomsbury Square, WC1B 4DA. T: 020-7242 0002.
D8. Station: Holborn.

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WELLBEING | THE GUIDE
Clockwise from left:
shower room, treatment
room, reception area
all Spa InterContinental

Pamper yourself

Business meets pleasure


Kohinoor Sahota rounds up the best business-inspired treatments that
will get you ready for that important meeting

One of the best ways to de-stress when you


land in a new city is by having a massage.
But if youve a meeting planned for the

SPA IMAGES COURTESY OF SPA INTERCONTINENTAL PARK LANE; BLOW DRY IMAGE ISTOCK
next day (or in the next few hours), it can
be hard to relax and restart. So thats why AVEDA INSTITUTE
Make a great first impression and book
you need to visit Spa InterContinental, located
The Perfect Back. It includes an exfoliation,
in the InterContinental London Park Lane. an algotherapy mask (removed using hot
This plush urban retreat is in one of Londons towels) and a massage to relieve tension
most luxurious areas: Mayfair. Last year, the (40 min; 65; p. 77).
spa won the Best Urban Escape Spa at the
World Luxury Spa Awards. AWAY SPA
This hideaway, on the second floor of the W London in Leicester Square is ideal for
those on the go. The Entrepreneur package
hotel, shuts out the busy city streets; there
is designed for women who need a pamper
is not a smattering of the outside world no One of the unique facilities in the spa is the power hour. Enjoy an express mini or pedi,
natural light at all. Instead, there are low-lit lamps dry floatation bed. As you lay down on the lower leg and foot massage, and a blow dry
and plush sofas to sink into while you wait. surface, which feels similar to a waterbed, it from hair stylist to the stars Adam Bennett.
You can indulge in complimentary drinks, too.
The menu includes meeting-ready treatments. is then turned on and you are slowly lowered
www.awayspalondon.com
Under the male grooming options, you can into the tank. The blanket-like sides are placed
choose from the pre-business pit stop with onto you to keep you cocooned. The feeling NEIL CORNELIUS
a facial, eye treatment, manicure and brow of weightlessness and relaxing vibrations send If youre having a bad hair day and want
tidy; the post-business pit-stop has a deep you to sleep. If youre suffering from tiredness to sort it out straight away, this salon is
tissue massage, with a focus on the neck or jet lag, this is a must: 20 minutes in the tank the place to go. Its open 24 hours a day,
365 days a year, and offers cuts, blow dries
and shoulders, followed by 20 minutes on is the equivalent of three hours sleep (30). Bliss! and colour treatments. Appointments
the dry floatation bed (both 140). Both One Hamilton Place, Park Lane, W1J 7QY. T: 020- must be booked in advance. (Haircuts
treatments can be adapted for women, too. 7318 8691. www.spaintercontinentallondon.com from 75). www.neilcornelius.com

76 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (Tube), railway and Docklands AVENA MASSAGE
Light Railway. Most spas are open seven days a week, but check for opening hours.
References at the end of listings (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map p. 80-81 by qualied female masseuse.

SPAS Rocco Forte at Browns Hotel


An oasis of calm in the West End that boasts
Total relaxation,
Aveda Institute
This three-storey salon offers cuts, colour, blow
a 24-hour gym and luxury treatments including
a gold age-defying facial and carat diamond
revitalising massage.
dries and botanical treatments using Avedas face and body rituals. There are also treatments
plant-based products. The Express Beauty Bar has
treatments lasting 15 and 30 minutes (p. 76).
for two. www.brownshotel.com. Albemarle St, Please call to book an
www.avedainstitute.co.uk. 174 High Holborn,
W1S 4BP. T: 020-7518 4009. E7. Station: Green Park.

The Spa at Dolphin Square


appointment at your
WC1V 7AA. T: 020-7759 7355. D8. Station: Holborn.

Bamford Haybarn Spa


Moroccan-inspired luxury. Signature massages hotel, home or our
Loved by celebrities, treatments have a holistic
approach to wellbeing, and use botanical
include the Moroccan Majorelle and Arabian
Ceremony. Treatments can be combined with studio on:
a hammam. www.dolphinsquare.co.uk/spa.

07879 697478
products. There is also a rooftop pool and Chichester St, SW1V 3LX. T: 020-7798 6767.
secret garden. www.the-berkeley.co.uk. Off map. Station: Pimlico.
The Berkeley hotel, Wilton Place, SW1X 7RL.
T: 020-7201 1699. F6. Station: Knightsbridge. Spa Illuminata
This spas menu includes facials, massages
Blue Harbour Health Club & Spa and options for men. Anti-ageing treatments
This exclusive members-only spa offers day include anti-wrinkle injections and skin peels.
passes for 25. Swim in the 17m pool, use the www.spailluminata.com. 63 South Audley St,
fitness equipment or visit the Figaro Hair Salon.
W1K 2QS. T: 020-7499 7777. E6. Station: Marble Arch.
There are treatment rooms for disabled visitors.
www.blueharbourspa.co.uk. Chelsea Harbour Urban Retreat at Harrods
Drive, SW10 0XG. T: 020-7300 5011. Off map. This is one of the few places in London that
Station: Imperial Wharf. offers paraffin wax baths. Special services include
weaves, extensions, wig creation and cutting.
Elemis Day Spa
Theres a hammam, too. www.urbanretreat.co.uk.
This spa specialises in facials that tackle ageing,
Fifth floor, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL.
pigmentation and blemishes. In The Penthouse,
T: 020-7893 8333. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
a private suite, you can share the experience with
Late appointments available
your guest while sipping Champagne. The Speed Ushvani
Spa offers treatments in 30 minutes. www.elemis. Plush spa with a philosophy that is based
com/dayspa. 2 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EX. on ancient Asian culture and takes a holistic
T: 020-7499 4995. E6. Station: Bond Street. approach to pampering. Treatments include
Jurlique a Malay massage and Balinese massage, which
Founded by Dr Jrgen Klein, a biochemist, and his incorporate herbs and spices. www.ushvani.com.
wife Ulrike, a botanist, this spa uses their natural 1 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2RJ. T: 020-7730 2888.
skincare range. Treatments include an anti-stress G5. Station: Sloane Square.
facial, which eases tension in your face, neck and
shoulders. www.jurlique.co.uk. 489 Oxford St, W1C SALONS
2AU. T: 0800-040 7685. D8. Station: Bond Street.
Gentlemens Tonic
Mandara Spa This is a stylish men-only grooming establishment
This spa has an Asian touch: the dcor includes a with a barbershop, body and hair treatments and
bamboo forest, Mondrian paintings and Japanese a full range of products. www.gentlemenstonic.com.
shoji screens. Try the warm bamboo massage, where 31a Bruton Place, W1J 6NN. T: 020-7297 4343. E6.
SPA IMAGES COURTESY OF SPA INTERCONTINENTAL PARK LANE; BLOW DRY IMAGE ISTOCK

bamboo stalks are used on your body. www.mandara Station: Bond Street.
spa.com. Park Plaza, 200 Westminster Bridge Rd,
SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7300. F8. Station: Waterloo. Geo F Trumper
A traditional barbershop in Mayfair, which offers
Mandarin Oriental wet shaves, manicures and hair cuts for an elegant
A luxury spa inspired by Chinese massage result. www.trumpers.com. 9 Curzon St, W1J 5HQ.
methods. Facilities include a 17m pool and T: 020-7499 1850. E6. Station: Green Park.
gym. Book a session with trainer Ruben Tabares
THINKSTOCK

sessions can be held in Hyde Park. www.mandarin Hershesons Blow Dry Bar
oriental.com. 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. At this trendy hairdresser to the stars, you can
T: 020-7235 2000. F5. Station: Knightsbridge. ask for your favourite fashion-forward look from
a menu and a stylist will create it in 30 minutes.
One Aldwych www.hershesons.com. Selfridges, 400 Oxford St,
This spa offers a range of treatments including W1A 1AB. T: 020-7493 1600. E6. Station: Bond Street.
massages, manicures and waxing. Brands used
are Natura Biss and Oskia. The health club Jo Hansford
is excellent, while the pool is chlorine-free and This hair-colour salon, which is home to top
has underwater music. www.onealdwych.com. stylists, is renowned for its colour correction work.
One Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 0600. The salon also has an in-house chef. www.jo
D8. Station: Covent Garden. hansford.com. 48 South Audley St, W1K 2QB.
T: 020-7495 7774. E6. Station: Marble Arch.
The Refinery
This men-only spa has treatments ranging Windle & Moodie

where
from a traditional shave to sports massage. An award-winning hair salon, which specialises
If you want to master a wet shave, you can book in upfront catwalk looks. The 20-minute Speed
a Principles of Shaving lesson. Also available at Styling service includes updos. www.windleand
RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE
Harrods. www.the-refinery.com. 60 Brook St, W1K moodie.com. 41-45 Shorts Gardens, WC2H 9AP.
5DU. T: 020-7409 2001. E6. Station: Bond Street. T: 020-7497 2393. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

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WL SEPT WELLBEING.indd 77 17/08/2017 13:15


ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE
TICKET INFORMATION
Oyster cards & Travelcards
AT YOUR SERVICE An Oyster card is a pre-paid travel smart card.
Its a cheap way to pay for single journeys by
Concierges in the capital use Where London for information, bus, Tube, tram, DLR, London Overground
and most National Rail train services in London.
and three concierges share their top tips You can buy a Visitor Oyster card before you
leave home for a 3 fee and pre-load it with
credit at www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk. The system
has nine zones. Zone 1 is in central London.
Visitors can buy Oyster cards and Day
Travelcards from stations, Visitor Centres and any
Oyster Ticket Shop. UK visitors can also pay for
their travel with a UK-issued contactless payment
card. See www.tfl.gov.uk/visitinglondon.
An Oyster card also gives you a 25 per cent
discount on Londons cable car, the Emirates Air
Line, and a 10 per cent discount on single journeys
on most MBNA Thames Clippers river buses.
For more info, visit www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk.

Robert Naraine Christophe Caron Didzis Neimanis


Head concierge at Head concierge at Head concierge at
GETTING AROUND
For 24-hour travel information, visit the Transport
London Bridge Hotel The Beaumont Grange St Pauls Hotel for London (TfL) website. www.tfl.gov.uk/
visitinglondon or call T: 0343-222 1234.
Whats the strangest Whats the strangest Whats the strangest
request youve had? request youve had? request youve had?
London Underground (The Tube)
Pre-internet, an American I saved a wedding day by One Sunday night, a guest
www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground map
family asked me to find the taking the rings to my guests, asked me to bulk buy water (opposite). Services run Mon-Sat 5am-12.30am

ROBERT NARAINE COURTESY OF LONDON BRIDGE HOTEL; CHRISTOPHE CARON COURTESY OF THE BEAUMONT; DIDZIS NEIMANIS COURTESY OF GRANGE ST PAULS HOTEL;
real Thomas the Tank Engine. whod left them at the hotel. beads the gel balls florists and Sun 7.30am-11.30pm on most routes. The
After numerous phone I had to jump on my use for the following night Tube service runs on Fri-Sat on the Victoria,
calls, I found it: a working motorbike and rush morning. I found them Jubilee, Central, Northern (via Embankment)
blue train in the Nene Valley through London at Covent Garden and Piccadilly line. Fares vary; a Zone 1 adult
Railway in Cambridgeshire, to arrive on time. Flower Market. fare costs 4.80 (2.30 with an Oyster card).
that inspired the books Any family- Any family-
author. After that, there London Buses
friendly friendly
London buses run 5am-12.30am. Night buses
were no strange requests, ideas? ideas? (midnight-4.30am) operate on main routes
just ones youve never been Make sure you I am a big (several services are 24-hour). You cant pay
asked before! visit Greenwich fan of guided for a bus fare with cash, so use a Visitor Oyster
Any family-friendly ideas? in southeast tours and they card, Oyster card, Travelcard or a UK-issued
A day at Leeds Castle, just London its are a great fun. contactless payment card. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/
an hour away from central home to the Cutty Whether the tour is buses. A single fare is 1.50 with an Oyster card
London. It has lots to do Sark, the National a private one or part of or a UK-issued contactless payment card.
for all ages: get lost in the Maritime Museum and the a group, its always a good
maze, punt on the lake Royal Observatory in the idea. The Ghosts of the
London Overground
www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground
and see birds in the aviary. middle of Greenwich Park. Old City walking tour and
map (opposite). Trains run Mon-Sat 5am-midnight;
Share a quintessential Share a quintessential London Landmarks bicycle Sun 7am-11.30pm on most routes.
English experience. English experience. tour are my favourites.
As a cricket fan, I would Enjoy a 99 (a soft vanilla Share a quintessential Docklands Light Railway
recommend taking a tour ice cream cone with a English experience. Trains run approximately every three-and-
and watching a game at chocolate flake in it), Shakespeares Globe gives a-half minutes to 10 minutes. Mon-Sat 5.30am-
NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM, CRICKET BALLS AND LEEDS CASTLE ISTOCK
12.30am; Sun 7am-11pm. T: 020-7363 9700.
the home of cricket, Lords sitting on a deckchair visitors an insight into English
Cricket Ground. in St Jamess Park. entertainment 400 years ago.
Trains
Paddington serves the West Country,
Wales and the South Midlands.
Liverpool Street and Fenchurch
Street serve East Anglia and Essex.
Euston Kings Cross St Pancras
Marylebone and St Pancras
International (connects to Kings Cross
St Pancras) serve north and central Britain,
and southeast England. Charing Cross
London Bridge Waterloo
and Victoria serve southern England.
For times and tickets, visit www.nationalrail.
co.uk or call T: 0845-748 4950.
Inset: National Maritime Museum Eurostar uses St Pancras International.
in Greenwich Above: Cricket bat Visit www.eurostar.com for more information,
and balls Left: Leeds Castle times and ticket prices. Call T: 0344-822 4777 (or
if youre outside the UK, call T: 01233-617 575).

78 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017

WL SEPT ESSENTIALS.indd 78 17/08/2017 13:21


ESSENTIALS

Accessible London Emirates Air Line cable car


Get information for deaf and disabled travellers, Londons only cable car runs across the River
including step-free journeys on the Tube, bus Thames between Greenwich Peninsula (The O2)
and river service at www.visitlondon.com/ and the Royal Docks (ExCeL London). You can
access and www.openbritain.net. board from either the North Greenwich or Royal
Victoria sides of the river (return flights are
Taxis available). You can buy a combined ticket with
You can hail a black cab (taxi) in the street. MBNA Thames Clippers and London Transport
Fares increase after 8pm. You cannot hail Museum. www.tfl.gov.uk/emiratesairline.
private-hire or minicabs, which you must book.
We strongly advise against you using any vehicle On foot
that approaches you in the street, except for Its often quicker to get around London by
licensed black cabs. www.tfl.gov.uk. walking. Look out for blue and yellow Legible
London street maps. www.tfl.gov.uk/
Car hire legiblelondon.
Make sure your driving licence is valid for the UK
and see Congestion Charge below. 4x4 Vehicle Santander Cycles
Hire: T: 01245-410535. www.4x4vehiclehire.co.uk. There are 11,500 bikes for hire from 750 docking
Hertz: T: 0870-844 8844. www.hertz.co.uk. Kendall stations throughout central London. From 2 for
Cars Ltd: T: 020-8542 0403. www.kendallcars.com. 30 minutes; the first 30 minutes are free. Theres
Enterprise Rent-A-Car: T: 0800-800 227.
NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM, CRICKET BALLS AND LEEDS CASTLE ISTOCK

no need to book, but you need a debit or credit


www.enterprise.co.uk. card to hire a bike. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/
santandercycles or call T: 0343-222 6666.
Congestion Charge
There is a congestion charge to drive into central
24-hour Tube lines
Coaches Run Fridays & Saturdays on the following
London, Mon-Fri 7am-6pm. Payable in advance or
Londons main coach services use Victoria
UNDERGROUND SIGN ISTOCK; MAP COURTESY OF TFL

on the day of travel (11.50), or the day after (14). lines. More are due to open soon.
Coach Station, a central hub which offers travel
UK: T: 034-3222 2222. International: T: +44 20-7649 Jubilee Line: Across the entire line.
to destinations around the UK and some parts
9122. www.cclondon.com. Victoria Line: Across the entire line.
of Europe. SW1W 9TP. T: 0843-222 1234.
www.tfl.gov.uk/coaches Victoria. Northern Line: Between Morden and
River services Map D4. Camden Town and between Camden
www.tfl.gov.uk/river
MBNA Thames Clippers: T: 020-7001 2200. Town to High Barnet/Edgware.
www.thamesclippers.com. Catamarans leave DELIVERY Piccadilly Line: Between Cockfosters
major piers every 20 mins. Services run between and Heathrow Terminal 5.
Waterloo Pier and The O2 (North Greenwich Pier) Mail Boxes Etc.
Central Line: Between White City and
and on to Royal Arsenal Woolwich Pier, stopping Worldwide parcel delivery, courier and postal
services. There are 1,600 stores worldwide and Leytonstone; between Ealing Broadway
at 20 main piers. Discounts on single journeys
on all MBNA Thames Clippers river buses. The more than 150 stores in the UK and Ireland. and White City; and between Leytonstone
River Roamer day pass gives unlimited hop-on, Mail Boxes are also trained certified packers. and Loughton/Hainault.
hop-off travel from 17.35. T: 01608-649230. www.mbe.co.uk/london.

www.wheretraveler.com 79

WL SEPT ESSENTIALS.indd 79 17/08/2017 13:22


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WL JOHN LEWIS MAP.indd 81 17/08/2017 13:23
WHERE NOW | KILLIAN DONNELLY

My Perfect Day

KILLIAN DONNELLY
ACTOR
Killian is from County Meath
in Ireland. He has starred in

LONDON VIEW; THE NATIONAL GALLERY, WHISKEY AND THEATRE ISTOCK; KILLIAN DONNELLY MUG PHOTOGRAPHY LTD; AFTERNOON TEA COURTESY OF SANDERSON HOTEL
The Commitments, Kinky Boots
and Memphis, for which he was
nominated for an Olivier Award.
He now plays Jean Valjean in
Les Misrables. He lives in Aldgate.

Where would you have breakfast? What places hold a special memory? Where do you like to have a drink?
At Bar Bruno on Wardour Street its next to the Ive been in London around nine years. The bridges The place I go for a Guinness Im Irish! is
Queens Theatre. Its the sort of place for an I dont are special I love walking over them. Waxys Little Sister on Wardour Street. You go
care, I want the full English breakfast and they will in, and nine times out of 10 the person behind
put everything in it, almost a whole calf. When you Do you have a favourite park? the bar is Irish. My dream drinking partner would
want to be healthy, I go to Balans and get eggs. Green Park it contains Buckingham Place, and be Frank Sinatra. Wed have whiskey at the end
on a gorgeous day you can sit in a deckchair and of a dirty bar. Id want to hear his stories.
What are your favourite buildings? read a book. I will happily read for a couple of
When I have friends to stay, I love walking up hours it feels like you have done something Where would you go for dinner?
The Mall to Buckingham Palace. with your day. I went to Barrafina with the singer Nick Jonas;
I did Les Misrables with him. We see each other
Which museums and galleries do you like? How do you travel? once or twice a year.
The National Gallery. When my friend visits, Ive started hiring Santander bikes its so easy.
we get a coffee and wander around the gallery. I love riding down the north bank of the Thames What is your ideal entertainment?
I dont know much about art, but the more I go, cycling is so much fun. The weight has been Watching Jurassic Park (my favourite film) with
the more I find out what type of art I do like. falling off me! There are routes and architecture a live orchestra, and with John Williams (my
I wouldnt have seen otherwise. Its also good for favourite composer) conducting it. That exact
Where do you prefer to go shopping? your voice as you learn to regulate your breathing. event took place in November at the Royal
Im bad with shopping if you see me, youll know Albert Hall I got a ticket, but then had a gig in
that Im not a fashion guru. If I need something Would you do anything extravagant? Dublin. I really hope they put it on again!
Ill go to the shops. The only shop I can go to, get I am not really an extravagant person. I love taking
Tell us about Les Misrables.
lost and walk around is the the boat that travels down the
I used to be a young student in the show, running
Apple Store. Theres something river to The O2. I used to live in
around with guns. Im now the old guy 32 years
about the gadgets. I love the south London and if there was
old and climbing down the barrricade, my back
Covent Garden branch, with a Tube strike, it was such a
hurts. I dont have to pretend, its challenging.
its mix of old stone walls and great feeling to use an Oyster
shiny glass, and where you can card to travel to work on a boat.
Where would you spend the night?
hear the street theatre outside.
Rosewood London hotel in Holborn is gorgeous.
Where do you go for tea?
The floors are beyond clean!
How about a date? I went to the Mad Hatters
Queens Theatre, 51 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6BA.
I love Waterloo Bridge; you afternoon tea at the Sanderson
T: 0844-482 5160. www.lesmis.com
always see a red bus going Hotel it was brilliant but thats
over it, and you can gaze at the only time Ive had afternoon Clockwise from top left: View of London;
Londons stunning architecture. tea. I prefer to have a coffee Killian Donnelly; The National Gallery; Mad Hatters
Thats my first date thing. while sitting on a wall, really. Afternoon Tea; whiskey; Les Misrables

82 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2017

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