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Alloys
Alloy Wheels
This component is part of Wheels and Tires.
Definition
When the new R107 350SL appeared in 1971, the wheel design changed slightly and they were given a new
part number. The silver paint was also clear coated for better durability and easier cleaning. This version of the
"old style" alloy wheel continued as a factory option through 1975, then was made standard on many models up
through 1984. Because of their abundance on later Mercedes Benz cars, many different alloy sizes are now
available, and may be easier to get than the size originally intended for the Pagoda.
The MBCA concourse rules allow alloys on 70-71 SL's without any deduction for authenticity, even if they have a
123 part number on the wheels, since the part number is marked on the inside of the wheel. It is assumed that
there was a special adapter made to install the alloys on the factory spare wheel post in the trunk.
Alloys are claimed to improve handling of the car because of the reduced weight compared to steel Rims. Alloys
weighs 14 pounds versus about 21 for the steel.
Otherwise it appears many people prefer the look of the original Hubcaps over that of the alloys, but it is largely a
personal preference.
reported to
work well with
185R14 and
205/70R14
tires on a
Pagoda, but be
certain that your
108 400 wheel weights
6.5Jx14 10 02 205/70–14 are not
30
(Fuchs) 126 400 (196,4) installed on
21 02 inside of rim.
They will
interfere with
your tie rod
ends on very
tight turns and
will come off
the rim.
205/65-15
(197,3)
7Jx15H2 Not yet
126 400 215/60–15
(Fuchs, 25 confirmed to
22 02 (194,9)
rare) work on W113
225/60–15
(198,6)
Original Fuchs or Mercedes alloy rims have raised steel inserts around each lug bolt hole. The non originals,
produced by other manufacturers (Ronal, Centra, ATS) have just a hole in the aluminum for lug bolts. Adsit
produces replica tires but these have not received rave reviews on our forums.
Light Alloy wheels that look like normal steel wheels from W123 diesels are also being sought and used by
members on W113s. Two sizes were used: 5 1/2 inch and 6 inch widths. These aluminium rims can replace
wheels on cars with hubcaps. The 6Jx14 H2 wheel was used on 1977-81 280E and 300D automobiles. The
part number is 123 400 15 02. They can only be used with the one-piece later style Hubcap. Each wheel weighs
11 pounds versus about 21 for the steel. That's a whopping 40 pound savings in unsprung weight. Add the
additional 10 pound savings if you have the spare in aluminium as well, and you have a car that is much lighter
on its feet; handles a bit better and takes the wheel covers.
5.5 Inch Alloy Wheel. Note the 4 white band marking. Part # 123 400 1302
6 Inch Alloy Wheel marked with solid white band.Part # 123 400 1502
See Tire Sizes for acceptable tire sizes for our cars.
Wheel bolts
Alloy wheels use different size (longer) wheel bolts compared to the
standard steel Rims. If you have four Alloy wheels, but a standard Spare
Tire, please make sure to have an extra set of standard wheel bolts
available for when you need to change your tires.
Overall 50mm
Shank: 28mm
Overall 40mm
Shank 20mm
Wheel bolt
Part number long wheel bolts: 108 400 15 02 (6Jx14) or 108 401 00 70
(6.5Jx14). Part number standard steel bolts: A 170 401 0170.
Valves
Note, early alloys (e.g. 108 part no.) require metal
valve stems, while later ones can use standard
rubber valves for inflation of the tires. On tires with
inner tire use only inner tires with rubber valve. On
tubeless tires use special metal valves (MB part
number 107 4000013). Torque data of the nut 6 Nm
(0.6 kpm).
Balancing weights
For Alloy wheels of the later kind (starting from
9.1971) use only balancing weights with 45° bevel
(MB part number 1084011594 to 2594 (with Mercedes
star)).
Maintenance
Refurbishing Alloy Wheels Original warning tag
Checking secondhand alloy wheels
1. Dents--these are very easy to dent, particularly when mounted on an extra heavy diesel sedan from
whence they came, when it hits a curb.
2. Corrosion. Yes, aluminum corrodes, particularly from salt and road junk allowed to crust up. You will see,
after all is cleaned, that the wheels will look just like they rusted albeit without the rust color, but you see
the pitting and corrosion.
3. Verify if it is an OEM (Fuchs or Mercedes) wheel, see above
4. Verify the rim width and offset (see Wheels and Tires)
5. Part number for the 6" wheels is 123 400 15 02; they are from the W123 cars. If the original powder coat
is intact, there is a solid silver stripe around the entire raised portion of the rim around the bolt holes. The
5.5's have a dashed silver line; that's how you tell them apart if you are searching in a mountain of old
wheels (been there and done that!) Part number of the 5.5's is 123 400 13 02.
6. It should go without saying that the metal is soft. If you are having them professionally refinished, they'll
need to be hand stripped as sand or bead blasting will obliterate the markings and also add a texture to
the surface. They could be refinished in the satin powder coat and they were hand stripped--all markings
are intact and the finish is beautiful.
The Mercedes-Benz re-finishing manual back in the 90ies advises painting with astral silver #9735 after
sanding, priming, filling if needed and resanding. ****Star Magazine Nov./Dec. "94" Since these times powder
coating has become much more widespread.
Depending on your ability and equipment you may or may not want to do it yourself. The best and most durable
is strip and powdercoat. However this is probably the most difficult as far as equipment and the most expensive
method. The correct color powder may be difficult to obtain also. Powdercoating is a electrostatic polyester
plastic powder which is applied in a powder form and is liquefied by heat and cools to a hard gloss. It is very
durable.
Joe Alexander recommends to lightly sandblast the wheels first to give the new finish a lot of grip. Completely
stripping is usually not necessary, but if you must, sandblasting or chemical stripping or dipping is possible.
Prime wheels to fill minor imperfections and to prepare any bare metal for paint. An epoxy primer or a two stage
primer is superior to just a lacquer primer. Lightly sand smooth and paint Mercedes Astral silver. Here again a
professional automotive grade two stage paint is superior for durability and performance. Finally Clear coat also
with an automotive grade two stage paint. Acrylic urethane and polyurethane paints give good results. Some
people will use two stage epoxy enamels with good results, however the correct color may be harder to obtain in
this system. Epoxy paints are also harder to use. Original Mercedes paints are available if you want to search
out a supplier. Do not skip the clear coat. This gives the wheels that deep metallic lustre.
As an alternative, but also the most economical: some automotive suppliers carry the correct silver and a clear
for alloys in spray cans. Try "The Eastwood Co.", http://www.eastwoodco.com/. The finished product can look
good but this is the least durable of your choices. You may have to re-finish every year or two to keep them
looking good. The aerosol paints just do not have the durability of a good two stage automotive paint system.
Always use good ventilation and a good respirator, modern automotive paints and harders are very toxic. When
done properly with the correct materials, the finish on the wheels will look original and last for many years. Avoid
using any wheel cleaners if possible, eventually they will dull the clear coat. Wax the wheels from time to time
and keep them clean. Treat them like the rest of your cars exterior. Many automotive body shops are experienced
and can recondition and refinish your wheels if you are not interested in giving it a try. Price and quality will vary.
Your wheels take more abuse from weather and road dirt than any other surface on your car. Avoid using strong
chemicals and keep them clean or the finish will suffer. At least use a good grade of spray wax on them when
you wax the rest of the car, the wheel surface needs more protection than anything else!