Trad Climbing Basics

By Donation Second Edition. December 2017

Contents

Introduction 5

Trad Gear 16

Trad Anchors 57

Ropework 85

Next Steps 110

VDiff Trad Climbing Basics 4

Can I Trad Climb?
Yes!
Learning to trad climb is similar to learning
to drive a car. It takes time, effort and
commitment. It can be dangerous if you
don't know what you're doing, or very safe
once you become competent.
This guide focuses on the physics behind
trad gear and the reasons for using
..
Peak District, England. Climber: Lucy Creamer. Photo: Jamie Moss (see more here).
different rope techniques. This is so you
understand why each technique is used,
and therefore you'll be able to adapt them
for any situation.
So, learn the skills and practise them
safely. Start with small adventures to build
up your problem solving ability before you
move on to anything bigger. And remember
to have fun!
 Trad Climbing Basics
Using Trad Gear

Assasin, Gogarth, Wales. Climber: Lee Roberts. Photo: Jethro Kiernan.

Trad Gear: Cams
Cams are reliable and versatile pieces of
trad protection that are designed to be
placed in parallel sided cracks, where nuts
won't work.

A cam has three or four lobes mounted on

an axle. Each lobe is shaped according to
a mathematical logarithmic spiral, so the
angle between the lobes and the rock is
always the same, no matter how retracted
the cam lobes are. This means that the
cam will work at any point of it's size range
(more on this later).

When a cam is weighted, the lobes are

forced apart, converting the downwards
force into a huge amount of outwards
pressure on the sides of the crack. It is this
outwards pressure which holds the cam in
place.

When you place a cam, its springs keep

the lobes pressing out on the sides of the
crack, creating just enough friction to keep
it in place. Because cams rely on this
friction to stay in position, make sure to
only place them in clean, dry cracks. Mud,
water or ice reduces the friction and can
cause the cam to slide out during a fall.

Learn more: www.vdiffclimbing.com 17

Cams Part 1: The Placement
Step 1
Pull the trigger to retract the cam lobes and
slot it into the crack.

Step 2
Release the trigger to allow the lobes to
open up and make contact with the sides
of the crack.

If the lobes open up all the way, try a

bigger size.

VDiff Trad Climbing Basics > Using Trad Gear 18

A Good Cam Placement
All lobes retracted evenly

Cam is in the middle section

of its range of movement

Fits completely inside the

crack without being too far
back

Each lobe makes contact

with a smooth, straight-sided
part of the crack

Stem points in the direction of

loading, usually down and
slightly out from the rock

Rock is clean, dry and solid

Learn more: www.vdiffclimbing.com 19

Cams Part 2: Size
Correct Size
This is the ideal cam size for the crack it is
in.

The strongest and optimal placement is

within the middle section of the cams
range of movement. You should aim to
place every cam like this.

Too Big
This is 'over-cammed' and will be very
difficult to remove. Use a smaller cam if
possible.

Too Small
This is 'tipped out' and will be very unlikely
to hold a fall. During a fall, cam lobes often
slip down the crack very slightly before
being pressed outwards.

In this case, at least one of the lobes is

likely to open completely to it's maximum
range, causing the cam to slip out of the
crack. Use a bigger cam.

VDiff Trad Climbing Basics > Using Trad Gear 20

Cams Part 3: Flared Cracks
A flared crack is one which becomes
narrower or wider at one side. Cracks can
be flared in any direction.

Upward Flares
The placement in this slightly upward-
flared crack is very good. If the cam slips
down slightly during a fall, it will remain
securely in the crack.

Warning
When a cam is placed in an extremely
upward-flaring crack, as shown below, it
could easily 'walk' upwards.
This means that it will either wiggle out of
position or be impossible to retrieve. This
is caused by movements in the rope as
you climb above.

Learn more: www.vdiffclimbing.com 21

You can reduce the
chance of this by
extending the cam with a
sling or quickdraw.

An alternative would be to
use a nut or a hex instead.

Downward Flares
The downwards flare of this crack is too
great for the cam to hold. In the event of a
fall, the lobes will continue opening until
they reach their maximum, at which point
the cam will fall out of the crack.
Cams can hold in very slightly downward-
flared cracks, but it is best to look for
parallel-sided or slightly upward-flared
cracks.

VDiff Trad Climbing Basics > Using Trad Gear 22

Cams Part 4: Horizontal Cracks
Cams can be placed in
horizontal or diagonal
cracks.

In these types of cracks,

placing your cam with the
outer lobes on the bottom
makes the placement
more stable.

Flexible stemmed cams

will bend around the edge
of the rock and maintain
their strength.

Rigid stemmed cams will

lever over the edge,
causing damage to the
stem.

Cams Part 5: Passive Protection

Certain types of cams can

be used passively (like a
nut). However, in this
situation nuts wedge into
place better.

So unless you've just

dropped them all, you'll
probably be better placing
a nut instead.

Learn more: www.vdiffclimbing.com 23

Cams Part 6: Removal
To remove a cam, simply pull the trigger If your cam trigger is unreachable, use the
and slide it out. Sometimes you may need hook on the end of your nut tool to pull it.
to wiggle it around constrictions in the rock.

Cams Part 7: Racking

An efficient way of racking cams is to put
them in size order on your harness with
their own separate colour-coded
carabiners.

If you have small cams on a front gear loop

and bigger cams further back, they'll be
less annoying as you climb.

VDiff Trad Climbing Basics > Using Trad Gear 24

Method 5 Attaching to Two or More Points
Step 1
Clip the rope through the furthest away
point, then walk to your belay position.
Step 3
Repeat steps 1 and 2 with the second
point.
Advantages
- You can use this method to equalize as
many points as you need. Just keep
repeating steps 1 and 2 until you've
equalized all your pieces.
Disadvantages
- Uses up a lot of rope.
- You must belay directly from your
harness.
VDiff Trad Climbing Basics > Trad Anchors
Step 2
Attach a screwgate to your rope loop and
then clovehitch the rope to it, just the same
as method 3.
Step 4
Tie your rope to the third point using a
clovehitch, as described in method 2. You
can fine-tune the clovehitches to equalize
the three points.
Best Situation to Use This Method
If you arrive at a belay with no slings or
cordelette.
74
How to Attach a Prusik to the Rope
Step 1
Wrap the prusik around both ropes a few though four wraps are generally enough.
times and then clip the ends together with Pull the knot tight, make sure it is neat and
a screwgate carabiner. More wraps will the double fisherman's knot is away from
create more friction around the ropes, the ropes.
..

Step 2
Clip the prusik to your leg loop. The prusik
will slide down the ropes if you hold it close
to your leg loop and lock around the ropes
if you let go. Test this before you abseil.

If it doesn't lock, take it off and re-tie it with Harness

an extra wrap around the ropes. Leg Loop

If your prusik loop is too long, it's possible

that it could jam into your belay device
during the abseil. If this happens, it can be
difficult to control your descent. To avoid
this, you can extend your belay device with
a sling (see page 105).

VDiff Trad Climbing Basics > Ropework 100

Abseiling Part 6: Check the System
Before you unclip your attachment point
from the anchor, check:

Solid Rope threaded through Correctly tied

anchor main point of anchor abseil knot

30
cm

Both ropes through Knots added

Prusik knot belay device to rope ends

Holding
both ropes
beneath
belay device

Learn more: www.vdiffclimbing.com 101

Get the Full Version
The full version of this e-book is available
on a pay-what-you-want pricing system,
starting at 0.
Learn How To:
- Place cams, nuts and other trad gear
- Build trad anchors
- Use different belay methods (including
guide mode)
- Equalize and extend gear effectively
- Understand forces on climbing gear
- Abseil safely (including using a prusik)
- Climb with half ropes
- Test rock quality
- Prepare for your first trad lead
Plus much more.
You can download it for free, or show your
support with a small donation.
Get your copy here:
https://gumroad.com/l/VDiff-Trad
Further Information:
* Perfect for those who want to start trad
climbing.
* 200+ accurately drawn, full-colour
illustrations.
* Step-by-step climbing techniques
explained in a beginner friendly way.
* Updated December 2017