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Basic Technical SOP For Cutting Section in Apparel MFG Facility
Basic Technical SOP For Cutting Section in Apparel MFG Facility
Basic Technical SOP For Cutting Section in Apparel MFG Facility
Inputs Details related to Fabric such as face side /Shade bands etc..
Shade swatches along with the face side swatch approved by the buyer should be received from the Go
down and Merchandising dept respectively.
Approval from H/office mandatory if the received lots of fabric are not matching to standards.
The approval must have a checklist form for all the tests & approval standards w. r. t colour, wash,
embroidery, printing, hand feel
Shade band details (Shade A, B, C, D) after verification should be received from fabric inspector &
spreading team also should be given a copy for reference.
Fabric details such as to face/back, nap direction; hand feel should be received from the godown duly
approved by the merchant.
Shade wise/widthwise segregated rolls only should be received, checked & then should proceed for
laying.
Both ends of every roll should have sticker consisting details of shade no, roll no, width and other
relevant detail to enable easy identification of rolls.
Cuttable quantities from each lot and shade should be informed to marketing, QA, & Buyer QA in
advance for approval.
Cutting of rolls/bales should be done shade wise as per the breakdown of the PO
Note: Rolls should be allotted in such a way that no of shades included in a single lay or shipment or size
range is minimized.
Unroll the fabric from rolls & lay on table/flat area in concentric folds.
Allow for free relaxation without any obstruction the period should be studied and pre determined by
the Go down and the factory Fabric Inspector
Record the time of unrolling and ready time laying of each roll
Relaxation of the lay should be pre determined and will be around 3-6hrs (for stretch fabrics if
necessary especially for knitted fabcrics
Cut fabric swatches with square template of size 18 X18(or 12x 12)
Fuse the fabric & specified interlining at specified temperature, pressure & time.
Check for fusing shrinkage and record same ---this should be incorporated into the patterns as
allowance for fusing.
Check for shade variation if any due to fusing. If you observe any shade variation, report to the Cutting
In Charge and initiate corrective action.
Check the fusing for defects like peel off, bubbles etc. Inform deviations/defects if any to the
concerned for necessary corrective action.
QA team has to educate/specify area of fusing, and temperature and pressure to be set for fusing-
Fusing tests must be carried out twice a day, once at the start of the machine then in the afternoon.
>> Fusing validation trial tests must be carried out regularly, when the new style begins fusing
parameters has to be finalised (temperature, time & pressure).
>>Check the fusing machine pressure rollers nip, affecting the fusing quality, by passing a fabric strip
through the machine & by pulling it backward --the need for re alignment of the rollers pressure can be
identified when this is done at three points i.e left/center/right of the belt.
>>By passing a carbon paper placed on top a white paper through the machine the impression on the
white paper can be observed. This would also will help us to determine any inconsistence of the roller
pressure at left>center> Right
>>Cleaning of the belt thoroughly and check for the required temperature and pressure when the
fabric/colour changes.
Washing Shrinkage
Percentage of washing shrinkage lengthwise and widthwise should be received from fabric section and
recordedthe suppliers should ensure that the shrinkages are as specified by the buyers (international
standard limits are 3% lengthwise and 3% -widthwise )
Identify the face & reverse side as per the swatch . Mark the roll no, PO, Style, QC, Taka No etc
If the washing shrinkage % is more that 1.5% then the shrinkage test to be conducted for all the
rolls/bales received (100% of rolls)
For Example: For absolute shrinkage % range of 3.0 4.5 % marker/pattern#1 & for shrinkage of 4.5% -
6% - Marker/Pattern # 2 like that.
>>Color codification should be done to trace rolls of shrinkage groups , if the range is too large or
inconsistent.
Objective: carried out in order to make the necessary amendments in patterns/laying procedure/cutting
procedure /cutting allowance/ marker changes/panel inspection/numbering area/bundling size.
Cutting incharge, production manager & IE shall plan for the pilot & bulk cutting.
Pilot run cutting shall be done as per the colour/size/quantity advised by FM/PM/IE.-the selection of the
rolls should cover all the shades and shrinkage groups
Obtain feed back from the sewing & buying QA and then act upon the necessary corrective action.
The pattern/marker being suggested by HO team is only a starting point for the cutting incharge to work
on better fabric utilisation. Cutting incharge should try out different markers to maximize fabric
A Parts Checklist has to be maintained by the marker drawer to ensure coverage of all parts in the lay.
Pattern should be verified for required allowances, tolerances, notches and embellishment placement
marks, grain line, nap direction indications before marking.
Constant usage of patterns results in wear & tear of pattern, this has to be regularly monitored and
worn out patterns to be replaced even daily if the case demands to ensure cutting quality.
Cello tape could be used to preserve the edges of the pattern boards for big quantities plastic boards
could be used to duplicate the pattern for marker drawing
If the patterns are worn out, it has to be replicated & cross-verified for required measurements,
allowances and tolerances. On satisfying these factors the worn out pattern has to be replaced.
Worn out patterns are to be destroyed after conformation on the correctness of the specifications
mentioned in tech pack.
Lay sheet on which the marker is drawn is torn in the middle & stickers are pasted consisting details like
PO no, Serial no, Fabric code no, Lot no. Hence easy identification of cut panels.
Lay Preparation:
Layers shall collect lay slip, cutting job card, lay sheet from the minusing person.
Layers shall lay the fabric according to the lay slip details.
Layers shall collect rolls of only one shade and one width for the lay at a time ,if any shade change is
noticed then use separators- i.e. lay sheet has to be placed for identification.
The cutting incharge has to decide upon the kind of lay such as face-to-face, face to back, face up, face
down, grain line, nap direction during the PP meeting stage upon the analysis of the garment.
Use lay separator sheets to separate rolls of different shades if used in the same laythe shade
category should be mentioned on every lay separator sheet also.
Lay Precaution:
During laying the layers should check the lay-to-lay shade variation & also center to selvedge variation as
a part of online check procedure.
QC shall inspect the lay for lay tension, width, length, grain line, nap direction etc.
Bulk Cutting
Cutters must be trained on the methods of accurate cutting, especially for parts with deep curves. If
possible diagrammatic representation of the direction of movement of the cutter needs to be
illustrated.
Cutters shall inspect the cutting machine for oil leakage, straightness of the blade, sharpening quality,
evenness in sharpening of the blade, dust accumulation before cutting.
Cutters shall cut lay as per the mark up using straight knife m/c and move the parts to band knife as per
the discussion in PP meeting.
QC shall inspect all the cut parts using patterns and initiate corrective action upon the detection of
defect.
Prepare 1st cut bundle inspection report; notify fabric defects and cutting defects to FM/PM.
QC should have a cutting checklist against which 1st bundle audit has to be conducted. Checklist should
have details of allowances, tolerance included in pattern, notches and embellishments placement
markings details.
The size of the straight knife for cutting lightweight fabrics should be 6 only.
Straight knife must be uniformly sharpened from top to bottom as frequently required,. This ensures
even sharpening along the full
Note:If sharpening of blade is uneven/inconsistent, it would result in uneven depth of notch marks and
variation in cutting too..
For Band knife cutting , patterns preferably made of tin should be used.
The patterns used for band knife must be changed regularly upon monitoring the wear and tear on the
pattern, due to frequent usage.
Numbering
Numbering plan must be given by the numbering incharge, specifying the style #, colour, P.O No., Serial
No., No. Of garments cut, sizes.
All the parts shall be numbered in a pre determined sequence and at pre determined location.
Numbering stickers gum strength (Light/Medium/Heavy) has to be decided keeping in mind the kind of
fabric being cut.
Panel Checking
The checkers carried out panel checking by placing the cut panels on the pattern and checking for
accuracy of notches, grain lines, nap direction, crocked cutting, measurements & tolerance.
Mark the pattern on a board (Acrylic. Card Board) along with +/- tolerance as dotted lines around the
outline marked. Place the cut panel (component) on this marked area. It becomes easier to asses if the
cut panel is within or out of tolerance. This inspection board has to verified and approved by pattern
maker before usage.
Once the fabric is cut, they shall be bundled and marked with inspection status.
When cut panels are inspected they shall be marked with green as I.
Cuts shall be bundled in to a pre determined bundle size and will be segregated size wise as well as lot
wise and stored in bags.
Issues of cut bundles to batches be done out as per the loading plan
Bundle tags will have details such as lot no, serial no, size, bundle no.
Mention shade category (A, B, C) on the cut panels for easy identification and tracking.
Layers shall mark both end bits with roll number, cut-lot number, meter age --all the bits every lay shall
be bundled and given to recutting department.
End-bits should be always laid face-up, no change in laying procedure without prior information from
the incharge
End-bits should be placed separately (Shade wise) to avoid discrepancies, the roll & taka number should
be written and stacked separately
Re-Cutting should be done from the same lot of fabric, matching the shade, to avoid shade variation.
2. Secondary Training: Adding on Skills to Existing Operators & Improving the Efficiency of Low
Performing Operators
1. The Output capacity of training section needs to be determined before setting up of a training section
in the factory.
2. To determine the Output of the training section following factors need to be considered:
a. Present Operator Strength in the Factory & Grade wise % contributing to the strength.
c. % Labour Turnover in the factory & Grade Wise % Split in the total Turn Over
d. % Absenteeism in Factory (Should also be analysed line wise) & Grade wise % Split in the overall
Absenteeism
e. Complexity of styles running in the factory & Operation wise Skill Set requirement for the style needs
to be analysed. This would tell use what should be the ideal mix of Skill Set that needs to be allocated to
the line
f. Analysis of most frequently running styles in the factory & Operation wise Skill Set requirement for the
style. Needs to be analysed. This would tell use what should be the ideal mix of Skill Set that needs to be
allocated to the line
Considering the above said factors, the factory IE has to co-ordinate with the training supervisor in
training of Operators
B. Planned Strategy:
1. Training Instructors need to be recruited depending on the size of the training section and the trained
operator output planned out of the training section.
2. There will be two categories of instructors required in training of the operators. One is training
section instructor who will train the trainees within the training section and the other instructor will
render ON JOB TRAINING instructor who will train the existing operator or the newly trained operator.
1. Personal interview:
Discuss & fill the relevant information in the Trainee Operator Recruitment Slip by HR Department
2. Selection tests:
These tests are very important for assessment of basic Skills such as Manual dexterity (Speed of Hand
Movements), Finger Dexterity (Speed of hand movements), and Hand Eye Co-ordination & Sewing tests
(Only for experienced operator, these basic skills are very Important for making successful Sewing
Operators).
In this test, we can assess the ability of applicants Hand & Arm movements, Two Hand Co-ordination
Grade: 1to 5 (Grade 5(75 sec); Grade 4(76-80 Sec); Grade3 (81- 86Sec); Grade 2(87-90sec) Grade1
(Above 90 sec).
Target: 75 seconds
In this test we can assess the ability of finger movements, & two hand Co-Ordination.
Apparatus Reqd: Peg Board, Metal pegs (120) one end painted red, & Stopwatch
Grade: 1to5 (Grade 5(82 sec); Grade 4(83-90 Sec); Grade3 (91-100Sec); Grade 2(101-105 sec); Grade1
(Above 105 sec)
Target: 82 seconds
In these tests, we can tests the ability to do the fine work with the fingers. It tests the ability to make
rapid finger movements, neatly, accurately & sensitivity.
Target: 90 seconds
In this test, we can measure the main manual Co-ordination together with the Finger dexterity
Apparatus Reqd: Ball tube Stand & Boxes with one lid, 25 balls & Stopwatch
Target: 25 Seconds
Test: Right Hand & Left Hand
Target: 48 Seconds
Grade: 1to5 (Grade 5(17-20); Grade 4(13-16); Grade3 (10-12); Grade 2(7-9); Grade1(less than 7))
This test is conducted to analyze the colour sensitivity of the operator. In this test operators are asked to
differentiate and rank different shades of the same colour in Ascending Order. We also can give them
some cones of thread of different colours and blocks of same or nearly same colours and asked to match
the thread to the block of colours.
After passing of above tests by trainees, then only they are eligible for to entering the training
department
Resources Required:
Sewing Machines
Single Needle Lock Stitch 10 Nos
Cupboard of Documentation 1 No
STEP 1:
Theory:
STEP 2:
Practical
f. Roughing exercises.Theory
2. Different kinds of Stitches.
5. Stitches per Inch (SPI) & Stitches per Cms (SPC) and adjustments.
STEP 3:
Theory
Adjusting Sewing conditions - SPI, Thread tension, Presser Foot, Feed dog etc.
Practical
6. Zigzag Exercises.
STEP 4:
Practical
2. Practice of Run stitch, Edge stitch, pointed stitch, Precision Start & Stop & various other sewing
exercises.
3. Two ply attaching by Run stitch, Turn & stitch pointed or edge (kinari).
Theory
Structure and Principle of Assembly of Cloths.
In this Session we particular train operators on better handling techniques, arranging their work place
according to the sequence of motion to reduce handling & increase machine time.
STEP 5:
Practical
a. Collar operation (collar run stitch, collar top or edge or pointed stitch)
c. Hemming Operations
3. Quality Exercises
Objective: To make more Quality awareness to all trainees by showing & explaining the different types
of defects showing in the readymade board. Here we should make job cards showing correct method (it
shows good quality) & wrong method of sewing (it shows defects).
STEP 6:
Once the training instructor has been satisfied about trainee performance during training, then he /she
can been released into the production line using Trainee Operator Release Slip.
While releasing the operator to production line, performance report of the operator during training,
detailing the skill level, the recommendation of the instructor & the strength & weakness of the
operator is given to IE team for their reference.
Newly trained operators have to be constantly monitored by the Training instructor seeking the help of
the work analyst & Online training instructor in the line and the industrial engineer of the factory.
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Staff 8
DGM->1
Prod.Manager->1
Asst. Manager->1
Accounts->1
Store Manager->1
Line Supervisors->3
Maintenance 2
Cutting 15
Cutting-in-charge->1
Cutter->2
Helpers->13
Fabric 3
Dispatch 4
Supervisor->1
Helpers->3
Checkers 7
Feeding 1
Operators 89
Salary-> 36
Pc/rate-> 45
Training-> 08
Helpers 30
Fusing->5
Front-> 5
Back->8
Assembly->10
Stores->2
Sweeper 1
Which payment system is better for sewing operators in garment manufacturing - Piece Rate or Salary
based?
By OCS Team
When entrepreneurs start business in garment manufacturing and garment exports, they look for a fair
payment system that would motivate their workers as well as factory can save good money out of the
business. Whether payment system is salary based, piece rate or incentive system. Researchers and
experts say that all payment systems have good things with certain challenges. After all, employers have
to understand what motivates their employee. Is it money, Job satisfaction, Position and/or recognition?
In this article I am discussing about sewing operators and get motivated by money only. When operators
are paid according to the work done (pieces) by them with an agreed rate only then they will work with
maximum effort. In other way it may be said that factory will only able to produce target quantity of
garments when their employees are fully motivated.
Prior to choosing a pay system, following factors must be considered. In the following table, comparison
of the piece rate and salaried system has been explained on eight parameters.
Parameters
Salaried
Piece rate
Lower
Higher up to 45%
Marketplace
Operator focused on
Quality
Quantity
Attrition rate
Lower
Higher
Capacity
Fixed
Product Change
No. problems
Price negotiation
Advance Technology
Welcome
Restricted
Work study
Welcome
Restricted
Now factory management has to decide how they want to run their business. What their priority is? Is it
quality or quantity? Are they wanted to run the factory with fixed or varied capacity? Do they want
stable operators or it does not matter to them?
In the context of Indian exporters, they are still quantity conscious than quality, though they are losing
lot of money due to poor product quality every day. Indian exporters mostly prefer to have Piece Rate
System.
Challenges for having piece rate employees: There are few challenges when company hires piece rate
employees.
Most of the factories dont have system to establish fair rate or standard time.
Until rate is fixed nobody work at their normal pace and company loses capacity
What is an SOP?
SOP authors: Michael Barazia (Identification Methods for Copper Sulfate) and Jay Bucher, Senior
Metrologist, Promega Corporation (Balance and Scale Calibration Procedure)
E-Mail: mailto:lseidman@madison.tec.wi.us
Madison, WI 53704
This page describes Standard Operating Procedures (SOPs) and their component sections and provides
examples of a SOP for students to review.
Documentation, that is, a system of written records, is essential in all laboratories and production
environments. A Standard Operating Procedure (SOP) is a certain type of document that describes in a
step-by-step outline form how to perform a particular task or operation. Everyone in a company must
follow the same procedures to assure that tasks are performed consistently and correctly. Most
companies have a wide variety of SOPs that describe how to do different tasks. In many companies
technicians and operators are trained in how to follow individual SOPs and their training record specifies
which SOPs they are trained on and are authorized to use.
There is no federally approved format for a SOP but there are expectations within the industry how a
SOP should be written. The SOP is written in imperative sentences rather than a narrative style. A
cookbook format is used and sentences should start with a task specific verb that tells what to do. The
instructions are numbered in the order that they will be followed.
There are certain sections and types of information that are typically included in an SOP. These sections
are illustrated in the SOP below entitled "Balances and Scale Calibration Procedure". Print out this SOP
and look for the following components:
TITLE or SUBJECT.
The title of the procedure, "Balances and Scale Calibration Procedure", is clearly written at the top of the
procedure.
ID NUMBER.
Each procedure should be also contain a unique identification number. The SOP ID number SOP11C002
is written at the top of the "Balances and Scale Calibration Procedure".
When a procedure becomes outdated and is revised, the new procedure should reflect the difference
with an updated revision number or date. It is essential that companies have systems in place to prevent
operators from using outdated revisions of an SOP. A revision number and effective date are shown at
the top of the "Balances and Scale Calibration Procedure". This SOP also includes a history of the various
revisions in Section 8.
PAGE NUMBER.
Each page of the procedure should be numbered. The usual format is to say p. x of p. xx where x is the
page number and xx is the total number of pages. This pagination is not illustrated in the "Balances and
Scale Calibration Procedure", however, you can see it in another SOP, "Identification Methods for
Copper Sulfate".
PURPOSE.
A statement of the purpose of the procedure should be clearly indicated on the SOP. The purpose of the
"Balances and Scale Calibration Procedure" is "To describe the responsibilities of the Metrology
Department as they relate to the calibration of all balances and scales".
SCOPE.
A statement of what the SOP covers. The "Balances and Scale Calibration Procedure" "applies to all
balances and scales that impact the quality of the goods supplied by Acme Widget Corp.,
Eatmorecheese, WI."
RESPONSIBILITY.
The persons who are responsible for the procedure should also be included. These persons may require
specialized education or training for using the procedure. In the "Balances and Scale Calibration
Procedure", the responsibilities are defined in Section 3.1.
DEFINITIONS.
Any important words or abbreviations are defined. In the "Balances and Scale Calibration Procedure",
definitions are in Section 4.
HAZARD COMMUNICATION.
SOPs should inform operators of any hazards associated with the materials or the completion of the
procedure and how to protect themselves from dangers. This information is included in Section 3.2 of
"Balances and Scale Calibration Procedure", but would often be included in a separate safety
information section.
REFERENCES.
A list of references or other document required to complete the task should also be included as well as
any forms or calculations necessary for completion of the task. The "Balances and Scale Calibration
Procedure" lists a Related Procedure in Section 6.2.
ASSOCIATED FORMS.
The SOP should include any required forms associated with the task. The "Balances and Scale Calibration
Procedure" lists an associated worksheet entitled "Balances and Scale Calibration Worksheet" in Section
6.1 (although it might place this information in Section 7). The worksheet is a form that is filled out by
the analyst as the calibration procedure is performed.
PROCEDURE.
The core of the SOP details the procedure in full in a step-by-step chronological manner. The following
associated information will also be present:
If equipment is needed to complete the task, a list of the equipment is included. Details may be
necessary to include the manufacture or location of the equipment.
The "Balances and Scale Calibration Procedure" has an incomplete procedure because it illustrates the
overall format and the types of information that are important in a calibration SOP. A more complete
procedure with all the steps can be found in another SOP, "Identification Methods for Copper Sulfate".
For more information about writing a good SOP see:
2. Seidman, Lisa A., and Cynthia Moore, Basic Laboratory Methods for Biotechnology: Textbook and
Laboratory Reference, Prentice Hall, 2000. See especially Chapter 5.
3. Nilsen, Clifford L., "Writing SOPs: Keep it Simple", Food Quality, Volume 6, Number 3, April 99, pp. 50-
51.
4. Standard Operating Procedure (SOP) Writer's Guide, Los Alamos National Laboratory.