tuscan reveries
AWAY FROM THE LEGIONS OF TOURISTS AND Indeed, the very mention of Tuscany invokes
FRANTIC PACE OF FLORENCE, CURTIS MARSH
DISCOVERS THE TRANQUILLITY OF THE MEDIEVAL
VILLAGE OF PANZANO. LOCATED IN THE HEART
OF CHIANTI CLASSICO, IT‘S THE PERFECT BASE
FOR VINEYARD TOURING AND GASTRONOMIC
INDULGENCE ALL YEAR ROUND PHOTOGRAPHY CURTIS MARSH
isitors to Tuscany typically fall in love with the
region. Instantly. It is easy to fall under the
enchantment of the idyllic Tuscan countryside, with
vineyards and olive groves, sylvan hills and sinuous
valleys dotted with picturesque medieval villages.
The latter typically comes complete with ancient
castles, villas, church or monastery, all steeped in
feudal history while exemplifying the splendour of
the Italian Renaissance.
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visions of radiant Mediterranean summer days
— think Frances Mayes’ Under the Tuscan Sun.
But there are reasons to visit all year round. The
spring months of April and May are congenial in
both weather and serenity, and after the tourist
hordes of summer, life in October takes on an
utopian tranquillity. This is when the last of the
olives are picked; when grape vines, bereft of
their grapes, perform a spectacular colour show
as their leaves wither, transforming the lush green
undulating hills of Chianti into a picturesque
mosaic of reds, ambers, golden yellows, then fading
to copper, bronze and ochre against an empyreal
blue sky. Meanwhile, the months of November and
December, whilst not quite poolside weather, offer
fireside evenings and hearty dinners of casseruola
cinghiale (wild boar casserole) paired with bottles of
earthy, muscular Chianti Classico Riserva.
 W ith its expansive and diverse scenery — from
rugged Mediterranean coastline to the
mountainous Valtiberina — one could spend a
whole year village-hopping in Tuscany and still not
see all of it. Thankfully, the tiny, tranquil medieval
village of Panzano offers a snapshot of the heart of
wine country. Strategically located halfway between
Florence and Siena, Panzano makes for a great base
to explore Chianti Classico.
Brimming with people and fresh produce stalls,
the quaint piazza Bucciarrlli, Panzano’s village
square is busiest on Sunday. Panzano also has
every convenience one requires — a butcher, two
bakeries, an excellent wine bar called Enoteca
�������
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: ������
Panoramic views of the Tuscan
countryside from Villa Pecille, �����
Panzano; The bell tower of a
9th century monastary, now
transformed into Villa La
Canonica di Greve; The Roman-
named village of Panzano with
Estruscan origins; Pecorino
cheese stall at the Sunday
market in Panzano
Zaldi, a meticulous fruit and vegetable store, and
a café that not only has the best coffee in region
but is also famous nation-wide for its unparalleled
homemade gelato.
The legendary Dario Cecchini of the Antica
Macelleria Cecchini is known as the Michelangelo
of butchers. He’ll deliver a sermon on the Bistecca
Panzanese, a large cut from the thigh of Tuscany’s
finest beef cattle, and tell you authoritatively
that it is superior to the more well-known Bistecca
alla Fiorentina. Not only that, be prepared to have
a glass of Chianti thrust into your hand no matter
what time of day it is, and Cecchini bellowing
out a Puccini opera in baritone whilst he assesses
if you are worthy of purchasing his meat. You
can also catch Cecchini at his dining table, across
from the butcher shop at Solociccia (meat dishes
only), where you can indulge in six courses of
meat convivio (at a communal table). (Tel: +(39)
055-852-020)
Panzano is also blessed with the most
outstanding, dedicated, Sangiovese-focused
producer in all Chianti Classico — Fontodi.
Occupying much of the valley know as Conca
d’Oro, or ‘the golden slopes’, surrounding the
southern approach of Panzano, the entire estate
is impeccably run and sustainably farmed along
biodynamic principles. The individual vineyard
wines Flaccianello della Pieve and Vigna del Sorbo
are sublime and true collectables. (Tel: +(39) 055-
852-005; www.fontodi.com)
For visits to wineries, it is imperative to book
visits in advance. Whilst most Tuscan producers
are happy to receive you, they are not open to
casual visitors.
appetite 159
 THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Casa Porciatti
in Radda at Chianti: the sort of delicatessen-
butcher-wine shop you just wished was in your own
neighbourhood; Bistecca alla Panzanese broiling
over the open fire — carnivorous perfection; Veal
cutlet with bayleaf at La Cantinetta di Rignana
— the quintessential alfreco trattoria; Salami
toscano made by artisan butcher Gigi Porciatti,
Casa Porciatti
OPPOSITE PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Tuck
into fresh Pecorino cheese; Fresh portobello
mushrooms grilled with herbs; Sangiovese Rosato
(rose), the perfect summer alfreco wine; The view
across the Conca d’Oro Valley and Fontodi vineyards
with the hilltop village of Panzano in the background

W ine is perhaps foremost in our consciousness

when contemplating Tuscany, even if it
may be that unpretentious Chianti that was our
first experience of Italian wine. Tuscany’s noble
indigenous red grape Sangiovese has reigned
supreme in Tuscany for centuries, taking its name
from the Latin term Sanguis Jovis, or ‘blood of
Jove’, symbolic of its colour, robust framework and
substantial character.
Artisan winemakers are also rediscovering the
timeless methodologies of organic and biodynamic
principles of sustainable viticulture and farming
practices, and returning to vineyard-terroir-driven
wines, at the same time using the latest techniques
and state-of-the-art equipment.
The best wines within the delimited zones of
Chianti Classico are now invariably 100 percent
Sangiovese and are distinctly food wines with
naturally high acidity and persistent tannins from
start to finish, travelling right across the palate with
a cleansing, mouth-puckering dryness. Sangiovese
tannins also carry signature flavonoids reminiscent
of Chinese black teas and soy, along with oak-
derived flavours of dried wood (balsa wood) and
old leather.
Choose from a host of Chianti Classicos and
enjoy elaborately perfumed wines, redolent
with wild berries, morello (sour) cherry through
to sweeter black cherry, red currants, juniper
berry and blood plums with hints of violets, and
sometimes, rose petal. This seductive bouquet
is enhanced by earthy forest-floor and cedar-
wood character, amongst bramble patch, wild
mushrooms, dried herbs and iron-ore mineral nuances. On the palate,
experience the sour tastes in a positive manner — they often become juicier
with sweeter black cherry and blueberry sweetness mid-palate, while their
indelible acidity propels the lingering sourness. Sensations of liquorice, tar and
soy appear, transcending to earthy, wet bricks, old leather and chestnut notes
with powerful, gripping tannins that are ever present. Yet, they remain smooth
and incredibly elegant. They tend to finish with the pleasant bitter twist of
walnuts, chestnuts or raw almond.
F rom Panzano, you can make daily sorties exploring other villages and sites.
Besides returning from a day’s foraging for produce, there is the immense
enjoyment in cooking the evening meal of local delicacies, paired with the
wines you have collected along the way.
Tuscan food belongs to a traditional northern-central cuisine and rarely
features seafood. The coast was a world away in ancient times, so dishes
evolved around what was at hand — indigenous animals, vegetables and
fruit. The Florentines enjoy polenta as the staple instead of pasta. In Tuscan
countryside, try ribollita, a distinctly Tuscan peasant’s bean soup composed of
stale bread, black-leaf kale and cabbage, which is re-boiled with fresh onion
and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil. Another local favourite in the same vein
is panzanella stale bread softened in water and vinegar, and dressed with
tomato, onion, and cucumber with extra-virgin olive oil. It is typically served
cold and tastes surprisingly good on a summer’s day.
Other local specialties include the very flavoursome Valdarno chicken, wild
rabbit and cacciatorini (small chunky pork sausages).
Native breeds of beef such as Chianina (used for the Fiorentina steak) and
wild pigs (cignale) or Cina Senese (a rare black-and-white spotted pig from
Siena) feature heavily, as do antipasti of pancetta and prosciutto (smoked
or cured meats) and various regional salami like toscano (with cubes of pork
fat and peppercorns), finocchiona (flavoured with fennel seeds) and buristo
(a rich Sienese pig’s blood salami). For Tuscan meats, poultry and small
goods, visit Antica Macelleria Falorni in Greve in Chianti. This world-renown
butchery has been run by the same family since 1729. (www.falorni.it)

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VINEYARDS TO VISIT

Montevertine Located just outside of Radda on the SP 72.

Commendably, you will not find any international varieties here. The late Sergio
Manetti is one of the pioneers of the pure Sangiovese renaissance, and their Le
Pergole Torte is proof that great wine can be made with 100 percent Sangiovese. All
their wines are made uncompromisingly edgy and for the long haul, so do not expect
any fruit bombs here. Look deeper to appreciate the varietal purity, expressive terroir
and structure. (Tel: +(39) 0577-738-009; www.montevertine.it)

Poggerino Located 3 km north of Radda on the SP 72.

I classify Poggerino’s wines as the most wildly seductive and complex in both texture
and aroma in all Tuscany. They have a consistent silky lushness and come with a
hedonistic bouquet of tobacco, autumnal forest floor, liquorice and gamey nuances
amongst wild berry and sweet black cherry fruit. The Chianti Classico is of outstanding
value, and the Riserva ‘Bugialla’, sublime. The 100 percent Sangiovese Rosato (rose)
‘Aurora’ is a fabulous drink. They also have charming vineyard accommodation
available May to October. (Tel: +(39) 0577-738-958; www.poggerino.com)

Castello di Volpaia You can take a very scenic, albeit windy, half-hour drive over
gravel road (SP 112) from Panzano. Otherwise, go via Chiantigiana south, turning off to
Radda and driving through Lucarelli (SP 2).
Volpaia is actually a tiny fortified medieval hilltop village, encompassing the Castello
di Volpaia that was a strategic guard to the border between Siena and Florence. The
Stianti family now owns the entire village, with practically all its inhabitants devoted
to producing wine, olive oil and high quality wine vinegar at Castello di Volpia. You
cannot miss the cellar door, which occupies the front of the Castello in the village’s
only square, Piazza della Torre. This one of the few places open without appointment;
however, make sure you book for a tour of the cellars. Unquestionably one of the top
producers in Chianti, the wines of Castello di Volpaia are known for their elegance and
intense perfume, reflecting the higher altitude vineyards between 400 to 600 m above
sea level. In particular, their Chianti Classico Riserva 100 percent Sangiovese is a
personal favourite. Also, make sure you stock up their wine vinegars, an essential for
the pantry.
This area is very popular for hiking. Castello di Volpaia has an excellent booklet for
sale illustrating numerous itineraries and walks through the vineyards and woods, past
ancient chapels and shrines, taking anything from 25 minutes to three hours.
(Tel: +(39) 0577-738-066; www.volpaia.it)

appetite 161

ABOVE: A homecooked feast of roasted Valdorna
chicken at the villa
BELOW: The church of Santa Maria Assunta
in Panzano
T uscany encompasses everything from
chic Italian high fashion designer labels
and luxury goods to Arcadian contentment
and revelation in utopia, all the while
stirring buried quixotic genes in even the
most conservative traveller.
Rarely does one achieve a consensus
on family holiday destinations and yet,
Tuscany fills these criteria admirably
with its promise of unlimited grissini,
prosciutto, pizza, Parmesan cheese,
spaghetti and gelato, appealing to even the
most stubborn adolescent palate.
Indeed, the best travel accessory one
can have in Italy is a young child. Italians
adore bambinos, and once they clamp
eyes on your little darling, even the most
unresponsive native will thenceforth
morph into a friendly, kind-hearted friend.
In general, you will find Italians much
more friendly and tolerant of language
differences than many other European
countries, although without ever losing
that uniquely Italian sense of chaos.
From here, based in the quintessential
Tuscan villa, Villa Pecille on the Azienda
Fontodi (vineyard estate), you can
explore the villages and the Chianti
Classico and Montalcino regions,
foraging for produce, visiting the best
wineries, enotecas and restaurants.
Indeed, this is gastronomic nirvana. n a hour-plus drive from Milan or Rome.
162 appetite
Villa Pecille at Panzano
ACCOMODATION
Just below the old part of Panzano is the quintessential Tuscan villa, Villa Pecille. This
is an 18th century villa built in the late Renaissance style, impeccably restored and
partitioned to well-appointed secluded apartments of varying sizes, accommodating
from two to a maximum of 26 people.
Each apartment has a fully-equipped kitchen and the amiable English-speaking
manager is always on hand. Tenuta Pecille also encompasses another two excellent
villas, Casale La Rota also on the Fontodi estate, and ‘I Canonici’, situated in an equally
beautiful countryside near Tavarnelle Val di Pesa. (Tel: +(39) 055-852-005;
www.tenutedipecille.com)
Or, choose to luxuriate in a rustic lodging at Villa Bordoni. It’s situated in the hills
immediately above Greve-in-Chianti (8 km from Panzano and 50 minutes’ drive from
Siena or Florence) and surrounded by olive groves and vineyards. This 10-room hotel
also boasts an exceptional restaurant. (Tel: +(39) 055-884-0004; www.villabordoni.com)
Travelling alone or as a couple, with no set itinerary but wishing to experience
authentic good old-fashioned hospitality? Get a copy of the English edition of Slow Food
Editore Osterie & Locande D’Italia (www.slowfood.com, or international@slowfood.
com) that covers enotecas (wine bars), trattorias, restaurants, B&Bs, small hotels,
holiday farms, guesthouses and hostels run by dedicated families and professionals.
GETTING AROUND
A rental car and international driving
licence is essential in this provincial
region as is a reliable GPS navigation
system (although it is prudent to have a
backup Michelin map). You should also
compensate for the narrow and very windy
roads in Chianti, with short distances
taking longer than anticipated. There are
myriad villages, wineries and places to eat
and source produce within a 50-km radius
of Panzano.
GETTING THERE
Frankfurt Airport is the most convenient
European hub to connect with regional
flights to Florence, landing you in the
centre of Tuscany and sparing the three-