POPULAR MECHANICS
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OVER PUSLIN” | prac,
Screws
TOP VIEW OF STEM
in, plywood, and all others are of ¥4-in.
plywood. This is a jig-saw job, the central
portions being cut away so that the frame
is about 2 in. wide all around. Fig. 8 gives
the general form of the frames. Frames 5
to 8 have no cross member at the top.
Blocks, as in Fig. 9, are fastened on frames
6, 7 and 8 to carry the members to which
the oarlocks are bolted.
When the frames have been completed,
screw the keelson, with stem and frames
assembled, to a plank as in Fig. 2. Each
frame is fastened to the keelson with a fin-
ishing nail and marine glue. Strips are
nailed across the tops of the frames tem-
porarily to hold them in their relative po-
sitions until the gunwales and battens are
put on, These are fastened to stem, stern
and frames 6 and 7 with brass screws, and
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to the other frames with finishing nails,
as in Figs. 5 and 6. The coaming is ¥4 by
2%-in, plywood, mitered at the corners.
All plywood, if the waterproof grade is not
available, should be thoroughly shellacked
before assembling, especially along the
edges where moisture might enter and
loosen the layers.
The seat travels on a pair of hardwood
rails with a flange and a lock strip, Fig. 10.
The seat top is ¥2-in. plywood mounted on
skate rollers which turn on axles welded
to flat-iron brackets. A lip below the roll-
ers slides under the lock strip attached to
the rail, and prevents the seat from drop-
ping out when the shell is turned upside
down. On the after-end of the rails, a foot
rest is bolted, with toe straps, and just be-
yond this is a pivoted foot bar for steering.POPULAR MECHANICS
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Construction of the rud-
der is simple, as shown in
Fig. 7. After completing
the frame, two coats of
shellac or spar varnish
are applied. The coaming
and seat top will be more
cfiective if stained wal-
nut or mahogany before
varnishing.
For the covering or
kin,” use a good grade
of unbleached muslin.
Put the deck on first. Fit
it temporarily, allowing
for a lap around the
coaming, Fig. 10. Apply
marine glue around the
gunwales, draw the cloth smooth over the
three battens on each deck, and press the
edges on the glued gunwales, Next, fit a
piece of muslin over the hull snugly, pin-
ning or basting it at the end. Remove and
stitch with a double seam at the ends. Ap-
ply more marine glue on the gunwales and
put the hull fabric on permanently, using
copper tacks along the gunwales only. The
cloth should not be stretched too tightly,
but just enough to remove wrinkles. Two
coats of airplane wing dope will make it
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drum tight. When the wing dope is dry,
give the entire covering a coat of spar
varnish. Put on a half-round molding to
cover the tacks in the gunwales, also
around the coaming to cover the lapped
cloth, and then nail a brass molding on
both the stem and stern,
Fig. 4 shows construction of the oarlocks
which are 48 in. from center to center, al-
though this spacing may be varied to suit.
The oarlocks and wood strips are fastened
to the hull after the skin is put in place.AMATEUR
MECHANICS
JE SPECIALLY designed for the oarsman
who wishes to improve his rowing
skill, this light racing shell offers health-
ful exercise, as well as keen, competitive
sport. While this model is a one-man de-
sign, it can be built to accommodate two
or more persons by adding 2 ft. per man
to the length, with a corresponding in-
crease in size of the cockpit and seat rails,
To start construction, first prepare a
keelson of oak or spruce, 1 in, square and
17 ft. 6 in. Jong, and then make the stem
and stern posts. These are identical, and
are built up as in Fig. 6. Tapered blocks
A and B are fastened to a piece of ¥-in.
spruce or white pine with marine glue and
RACING
finishing nails. The general deck plan is
shown in Fig. 3,
Now make the twelve frames, outlines
of which are given in Fig. 1. The cockpit
frames numbered 4 to 9 are cut from %-
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