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July, 1925 Bulletin No. 200-A

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UNDERGARMENTS
SIMPLE AND SUITABLE TYPES
By BLANCHE E. HYDE

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COLORADO AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE

EXTENSION SERVICE

FORT COLLINS

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FOR USE IN EXTENSION WORK
 UNDERGARMENTS
SIMPLE AND SUITABLE TYPES
By BLANCHE E. HYDE, Clothing Specialist

Articles of underwear change in name, style, material and points

of construction almost as often as outside clothing. In fact these
changes in underwear are often made necessary by the cut and general
style of the outside garment. The articles listed in this bulletin are
those which, in one form or another, and sometimes under different
names, are almost universally used. The suggestions given as to
methods of making these garments will carry over into other garments
similar in style and materials.
Detailed directions as to the methods of making suggested for
these garments will be found in the Sewing Handbook.

COST OF UNDERWEAR
There is always a great difference of opinion as to which is the
better economy, to purchase underwear ready-made, or to buy the
materials and construct it at home. From a standpoint of actual cash
expenditure, if the same quality of materials is used, one can generally
make underwear for from about half to two-thirds the cost of the
ready-made.
When making underwear at home, however, the tendency is to
use a better quality of materials and trimmings, hence the feeling that
the ready-made is cheaper.
From the standpoint of durability a home-made garment will gen-
erally outwear a ready-made one of the same money value, but when
time is an important factor, and the woman or girl is responsible for
many other home duties besides the family sewing, it may be a better
plan for her to spend her energies or her free time in other ways
than sewing.
MATERIALS FOR UNDERWEAR
Qualities.- Material from which an undergarment is to be
made should be soft and smooth, as fine a quality as one can afford,
easy to launder, and reasonably durable considering the quality of the
goods and the price paid.
Color.- White or some delicate color should be used in prefer-
ence to strong or brilliant shades. Materials in favor for undergar-
garments include :
Cotton:
Nainsook which is sold under many trade names.
Langeloth also sold under many trade names
Crepe or Ripplette.
Domestic, muslin, or cotton cloth. These names vary
according to the locality.
4 CoLORADo AGRICULTURAL CoLL~G~

Flour sack material.

Satine or satinette.
Silk:
Jersey
Crepe de Chine
China Silk
Pussy Willow
Wash Satin
Ravon.
Taffeta, messaline and ordinary satin are used for petticoats.
Linen is not used to any great extent for undergarments.

TRIMMINGS FOR UNDERWEAR

Undergarments of good quality materials, satisfactory in cut and
workmanship, have a certain style of their own and do not need elabor-
ate trimming.
At the present time very little trimming is used, the styles of
undergarments being somewhat tailored. \Vhen trimmings are used
they should correspond to the quality of the material with which they
are to be combined.
A little hand work will often give a sufficient touch of beauty to
an otherwise extremely plain garment. Suggestions for some of the
simple decorative stitches will be found in the Sewing Handbook
Trimmings purchased by the yard are of two types: ( 1) Lace,
either edge or insertion; and (2) Embroidery, either edge or insertion.
Lace, on account of its finished edge, has come to be much more
generally used than embroidery. Lace of a good quality should be
used, as it is economy in the end to purchase such.
The type known as Valenciennes, or "Val," is the most common
type, and the heavier variety or the round mesh launders much better
than the French or diamond mesh which seems to draw up in wash-
ing, and requires careful stretching and pulling to show the pattern.
lVIany laces come with an edge and insertion to match. Frequently
a lace beading or running for ribbon is woven onto the edge, or between
an edge and insertion, but many of these lace beadings do not wear
well, hence are not used as much as formerly.
Lact: is used on both cotton and silk materials, but both design and
quality of lace should be chosen with due regard to the material on
which it is to be used. A finer quality and more elaborate pattern are
sometimes permissible on silk undergarments but not on cotton.
Embroidered edges and insertions of good quality give splendid
wear but require much more labor in attaching to the garment than a
lace edge or insertion and in good grades are more expensive.
Directions for applying trimmings to underwear are given in the
Sewing Handbook.
 UNDERGARMENTS 5

RIBBON AND LINGERIE TAPE

Where ribbon is used in undergarments a good quality of wash
ribbon is more economical in the end, but lingerie tape has in a great
measure superseded the use of silk ribbon.
Lingerie tape comes in white and light colors, and both plain and
figured. Some of the better grades of lingerie tape are woven in the
same patterns as wash ribbon.
A lingerie tape of a soft weave and finish is better than one with
corded edges, as the latter type is apt to tear the beading.
UNDERGARMENTS
Of the garments classed as undergarments or lingerie, the fol-
lowing types have been selected as suitable for problems in club work,
as well as for ordinary wear.
Undervest Corselette
Chemise, plain and envelope Petticoat
Combination or "Step-in" Slip
Bloomers Night gown
Drawers Pajamas
Underwaist Negligee
Brassiere Boudoir cap
UNDERVEST
This garment is so simple that if nec·essary it may be made with-
out a_ pattern. If a straight type is desired, that is a straight piece of
material not shaped in at the under arms, and
straight across the top, unless the garment is to
be made of Jersey which will stretch to the figure,
the chief point to be considered is the width, for
the undervest extends to, or below, the hip line, ,.LJ.;¢!::::::::;;:::::::::;==;:::::U;~
and the garment must be wide enough to permit
the person to sit. In ordinary yard goods this
sometimes makes the garment too full around the
top, but in such a case the fullness may be held
in by small tucks or by a ribbon draw-string.
Materials.- Silk Jersey, which comes in the
form of tubing, is one of the best materials for an
undervest, but in the good grades is expensive.
Wash satin and crepe de Chine are also very
satisfactory materials.
Nainsook in a good quality is one of the
best wearing materials for an undervest, as in the ~
good grades it is soft and smooth, and launders
well ; moreover, it is less expensive and more Undervest
durable than the silk materials.
Old undergarments of knitted material may be cut down very
satisfactorily into children's undervests and union suits.
6 CoLoRADO AGRICULTURAL CoLLEGE

Making and Finishing Undervest.-Cut according to pattern,

or straight according to the size of person.
As this garment is worn directly next to the skin the seams should
be finished so that they will be flat and smooth. In undergarments for
young children, the seams are sometimes made and finished on the out-
side of the garment in order not to chafe the delicate skin.
If one or more seams are used in the undergarment, finish with a
French seam or a flat fell; a seam sewed by hand will be much softer
than one sewed by machine. The lower edge is generally finished with
a plain hem, sewed by hand or machine. If the garment is of Jersey
or a very soft silk, a hand-hemmed finish will "give" much more than
a machine-stitched one.
If the garn1ent is to be finished straight across the top, a hem %
inch to 1 inch in width should be made at the top, finished by hand or
machine. A row of fine feather-stitching is an attractive finish. A
casing for the ribbon should be made in this hem by a second line of
sewing parallel with the first line and allowing for the width of the
ribbon between.
When sewing on shoulder straps, be sure that they are sewed
near enough to the front so they will not slip off. They should be
sewed on first at the bottom of the casing. Turn under the edge and
hem to position, holding the ribbon flat and at right angles to the
casing. Sew again just above the casing making sure that the sewing
does not interfere with the free passage of ribbon through the casing.
When the top of the undervest is curved the edge may be finished
by a narrow hem, a rolled edge, a facing or a binding, and the arm's eye
in a like manner, with or without trimming.

CHEMISE
This garment is somewhat similar in appearance and shape to
the undervest, but on examination the pattern will be found to be not
only longer, but slightly looser in cut and shape under the arms. Very
often too, a chemnse pattern has a pleat to give extra fullness cut in
at the waist line in the back.
A chemise, as such, is rarely worn at the present time, but many
of the slips closely resemble the old-time chemise.
Materials.- The materials most favored for a chemise are nain-
sook and crepe de Chine in white or light colors.
Two types of patterns are used for chemises, those with the back
cut on a fold, and those with a seam and the extra pleat of fullness
inserted at the waistline. When worn with thin dresses the seam in
the back is apt to show through.
Trimmings if used at all should be very simple.
Making.- As the garment is generally made of a thin, soft
material, and to fit rather loosely, French seams are used. The finish
of the neck depends on the pattern and the kind of trimming decided
upon. If the garment is cut straight across, necessitating shoulder
straps, these should be of lingerie tape about one inch in width. The
 UNDERGARMENTS 7

method of sewing the lingerie tape to the garment will be determined

by the kind of trimming, and whether a draw-string is used at the top.
If a draw-string is necessary the ends of the shoulder straps should be
hemmed to the garment, just below the casing for the draw string.

THE ENVELOPE CHEMISE

This is similar in style and materials to the plain chemise, except
for an extension of the back section at the center of the lower edge.
This extension buttons
onto the hem at the low-
er edge of the front sec-
tion. The garment thus
answers the purpose of
a combination garment,
or undervest and draw-
ers or bloomers.
Making.- The di-
rections given for the
making of a chemise will
serve for the envelope
chemise also. The ex-
tension may be cut onto
the back section in one
piece, or it m a y b e
seamed o n. In either
case it is generally made
Envelope Chemise double, that is, faced
back to strengthen the
part where the buttons are to be sewed on.
Use a shaped facing, put on from the right
side and stifched and turned. The facing is
hemmed down either over the seam, if the
extension has been cut separately and seamed
on, or even with the hem on the lower edge of
the back.
In wearing, this extension is held in posi-
tion by buttons and buttonholes. The button- Envelope Chemise
holes are cut at right angles to the edge of
the hem, in the front section. The finish at the neck is similar to a
chemise.

COMBINATION UNDERGARMENT OR "STEP-IN"

Materials.- The same as for undervest or chemise.
Making.- The methods of making and finishing are similar to
those used in a chemise. This undergarment may be cut in different
ways. One type of pattern is somewhat similar in appearance to the
envelope chemise with a short extension cut on at the bottom of both
8 CoLORADO AGRICu.L;fURAL COLLEGE

front and back. Frequently the pattern directions call for the placing
of the end of this extension on a crosswise fold of the goods. This
garment is generally curved up at the sides
and finished at the lower edges with a
narrow hem with or without a trimming
of lace. Directions for applying lace
either before or after the edge is hemmed
will be found in the Sewing Handbook.
For convenience in "stepping in," the
top of the garment is generally finished
straight across with shoulder straps.
The illustration shows a step-in fin-
ished with a plain band at the top. Feather-
stitching is the only decoration and a row

\I I
of featherstitching makes the casing.

type.
Machine hemstitching makes an at-
tractive finish on an undergarment of this

The top of a garment like this may be

finished with shaped straps of the material
cut onto both front and back and buttoning
on the shoulders, or with straps of lingerie
tape.
Still another type of "step-in" or
combination undergarment has practically
no extension at the bottom but is curved
down from about the waist line almost in
Combination Undergarment
a semi-circle, and the front and back
or "SteP-in" joined in a short seam at the center bot-
tom.

BLOOMERS
These garments have in a large measure done away with the wear-
ing of drawers.
There are several distinct types of bloomers, among which are:
1. The slightly full, used for general wear by girls and women.
2. Those cut circular with no fullness about the hips.
3· The pleated or gymnasium type of bloomers used for athletics
and hiking.
Materials.- The materials used for bloomers differ according
to the locality, life, and climatic conditions. The materials listed for
underwear may be used, or the bloomers may be made of material to
match the dress. Satine in a dark color is very satisfactory and occa-
sionally wool is used. In fact almost any material not too stiff can be
utilized for bloomers.
Making.- The seams of bloomers should be flat felled, although
in some of the light-weight materials French seams will answer. If
 UNDERGARMENTS 9

the bloomers are to be held at the waist and knees with elastic, the
casing should be stitched by machine with buttonholed slits for insert-
ing the elastic. If a
second row of stitch-
ing is made close to
the outside fold of
the casing there will
be no trouble with
twisting of the elastic.
Quite frequently
bloomers are gathered
or pleated into a band
at the waist, button-
ing at one or b o t h
sides. In this case
the back buttons over
the front, and t h e
buttonhole should be
made horizontally at
right angles to the
end of the band.
Some people like
the lower end of the
leg portions gathered
into a band buttoning
over on the outside of
the leg just below the
knee. In this case a
small placket finished
with a continuous Pleated Bloomers
facing is used.
DRAWERS
Although drawers have in large measure been discarded in favor
of bloomers by both young and old, in many localities they are still
used especially for young children.
Materials.-Nainsook, long cloth, domestic and the cotton crepes
are favored materials for drawers.
Making.-Some of these little drawers are cut in one piece,
buttoning up on the outside of the leg and onto the waist. The advan-
tage of this type is that they can be ironed out flat.
Other drawers both for children and grown-ups are cut straight,
that is, with the straight lengthwise of the material extending down on
the outside of the leg and a straight lower edge on the legs.
Straight drawers always have some fullness which has to be
gathered in at the waist.
Other drawers are cut somewhat circular giving fullness to the leg
and less at the hips and waist.
10 CoLORADO AGRICUI/l'URAL CoLLEGE

The seams in drawers should be fin-

ished with a flat fell.
Children's drawers are generally fin-
ished with a band at the top which buttons
onto an underwaist.

Fitted Drawers

Straight Drawers Bloomers

Women's drawers are sometimes finished with a band at the

waist, buttoning at one or both sides if the drawers are closed.
In open drawers the top may be finished with a band buttoning
at the back or the top may be faced, the facing serving as a casing
for a tape to tie at the back.
For special finishes follow directions given with the pattern, refer-
ring also to Sewing Handbook.

UNDERWAIST
This is recognized almost universally as a child's garment. It is
popularly supposed to be made of a strong material well equipped with
buttons to hold the lower garments in place.
Materials.-vVhen made at home these underwaists are often of
domestic or drilling. Underwaists, with a slight amount of fullness,
for growing girls to wear may be made of cambric, long cloth, domestic
or of flour sacks.
 UNDERGARMENTS 11

Making.- The fullness is gathered into or facing

about the neck and into a broad strip of plain
material at the waist. This strip is joined to
the garment with a plain seam on the rigbt
side. The seam is covered with a piece of
bias tape stitched on each edge or a straight '
lengthwise band may be used if preferred.
Buttons may be sewed onto this tape or
band, or if buttons strung on tape are used
they should be pinned in position and the bias
tape or band stitched over the ends of the
button tapes. The button tapes should not be
cut over 2 inches in length.
Children's underwaists may be fastened
either in the front or back, each method having Little Girl's Underwaist
Back
its advantages.
A garment fastened in the front
is a little easier for a child to manage
and underwaists for young boys are
nearly all made in this way.
In underwaists for little girls, it

Little Girl's Underwaist

Practical Type of Underwaist Front

is often more convenient if the dresses fasten in the back to have the
undergarments planned in the same way; moreover there is then no
possibility of the buttons showing through the front of the dress.
12 CoLoRADO AGRICULTURAL CoLL~G~

BRASSIERE
. A brassiere is a garment which has come into quite general use
d~rmg the last ten years. Originally this garment was designed to wear
With _low-cut corsets and hoi~ the bust. Following this period the
brassiere became almost a substitute for the corset. It is also worn with
a corset to prevent the top of the corset from spreading and showing
through the dress as a ridge.
Brassieres should always be worn by women and girls whose
.figures are at all inclined to fullness.

Bust-Supporter brassiere

Long Brassiere
Two types of brassieres are illustrated, one the bust-supporter
type to be worn without a corset, and the other a long braisiere to be
worn over a corset.
Materials.- The ready-made brassieres are of materials which
it is not always possible to purchase at retail by the yard, and in some
cases these materials are so satisfactory that the ready-made brassieres
are more economical in the end. \Vhen made at home, drilling, domes-
tic, and heavy satine are strong and satisfactory.
The material from which brassieres are made should be thoroly
shrunken before using. In the shrinking process, use great care in
the ironing that the material is not stretched or pulled out of shape.
1f trimmings are desired, strong laces of heavy thread and dec-
orative pattern in which the design is not too open should be used.
For ordinary brassieres a narrow lace edge of strong quality
provides a decorative finish at the upper edge.
A piece of bias tape will also be needed.
Making.- Careful attention must be paid to all the details of
the pattern in cutting and putting together. All sewing should be
done by machine.
The seams may be flat felled, or a plain seam on the right side
of the garment, pressed open, or to one side and covered with a strip
of strong tape, either the twilled English tape or bias tape may be
 UNDERGARMENTS 13

used. Quite frequently this tape, by extra rows of stitching, is made

into casings to hold bones.
Many of the patterns for long brassieres call for a piece of broad
elastic at the sides. The use of elastic makes it possible to have the
brassiere fit very snugly about the hips. It is possible to purchase
elastic several inches in width which can be used for this purpose.
In putting in the elastic baste and fit first then turn in the outside
edges of the brassiere over the elastic and stitch flat. Cover the edges
on the wrong side with bias tape hemmed on by hand.
Most brassieres are designed to fasten in the back with hooks and
eyes. To avoid the trouble of the fastenings coming loose, the hooks
and eyes riveted onto strong tape and sold by the yard are used.
The garment is finished at the back with hems the width of the
tape and fitted so that the outer edges of the hems will just meet on
the figure. Baste these hems but do not stitch until applying the hook-
and-eye tape, then the stitching of the tape to position will also hold
the hem. Allow the other edge of the tape to remain free.
The top and bottom of a brassiere may be bound or faced with
bias or straight tape.
If necessary run a very narrow tape, sometimes called "bobbin,"
through the binding or facing at the top in order to draw in the upper
edge, if there is any tendency to looseness.
Many brassieres have a hook or eye on the end of a tape at the
bottom of the center front to hook into the lacing or over the clasps of
the corset.
The narrow brassiere shown is planned merely
as a bust support, and can be made from straight
pieces of material, fitted slightly under the arms,
and made snug at the upper and lower edge by
means of darts.
Both of the brassieres illustrated are orna- I
''
mented at the top with a narrow lace edge. !
CORSELETTE !
Another type of garment sometimes called a
corselette is a sort of long brassiere, fitted over
the hips, and with extensions on the side fronts
to which the garters are attached. This garment
serves the purpose of both corset and brassiere.
Materials.- The same as used for brassieres.
Strong lingerie tape for shoulder straps. Bias
tape for finishing.
Making.-Cut according to the directions
which come with the pattern. Baste, try on and
fit carefully. Finish all seams with a flat fell,
doing all sewing by machine. Finish the edges
at the center back with hook-and-eye tape Corselette
14 CoLoRADO AGRICUL'!'URAL CoLLltGE

stitched on by machine. Bind the top and bottom of the corselette witl:
bias tape.
Lingerie tap<:t may be used for shoulder straps, but straps of the
material will be much stronger, and if made narrow will not be con-
spicuous.
Sew flat loops of inch-wide twilled tape on the garter-extensions
at the front of the brassiere, and also at the sides or back. Fasten the
garters to these loops by passing a safety pin through the loop.
Some patterns for corselettes call for an insertion of elastic at the
hips, although a corselette is not generally worn as tight as a brassiere.
In order that a corselette be flexible the shoulder straps must be
of a correct length to bring the upper edge of the corselette at the
desired part of the figure and any necessary adjustment be made in
the length of the garters.
PETTICOAT
This is one of the most important undergarments for women and
girls and one in which the styles, materials and methods of making
change as frequently as do the patterns for dresses.
"Petticoat" is an old term formerly used almost synonymously
with underskirt. 1\fore recently, however, the tendency has been to use
the word petticoat in referring to the long skirt worn next the dress,
while underskirt has come to be thought of as a shorter skirt of knee
length formerly worn under the petticoat. The underskirt is little
worn at the present time.
\Vhen dresses became straight in line the petticoat immediately
followed suit until it has apparently reached the limit in simplicity.
Materials.-The materials used for outside petticoats include a
long list of fabrics from the simplest cotton weaves to the most elab-
orate of silks and rayons. It is economy to purchase a good grade of
material for a petticoat.
The materials used for underskirts are generally of a simpler
type than those for the petticoat, and are generally washable.
Making.- When a petticoat is straight or with only two gores
and fits comfortably over the hips, there is more or less fullness to be
gathered or fitted into the waist. 1\Iost of this fullness can be dis..
posed of by taking up darts, but when the hips are large, requiring
considerable fullness for comfort, and a smooth fit from the hips to
the waist is desired, a three- or four-gored skirt is better.
A petticoat should be as carefully planned and fitted as an outside
garment. If cut straight the material should be of such a quality that
the fullness about the waist will not be too clumsy.
The seams should be flat felled. Finish a straight placket at the
center back (see Sewing Handbook) and make a three-quarter inch
hem at the top for a casing in which to run elastic, stitching the edge
of the hem and again close to the upper edge. This will keep the elastic
from twisting.
Lap the width of the placket and finish with two snap fasteners.
Finish the lower edge of the petticoat with a hem or embroidery.
 UNDERGARMENTS 15
CHILDREN'S PETTICOATS
With the wearing of rompers and bloomers, petticoats for young
children have been almost discarded.
When a full effect is desired to wear under thin dresses, slips are
more generally used than petticoats.
When petticoats are made for young children, they are generally
straight, and gathered into a band buttoning onto an underwaist, and
are made of wash materials.

SLIPS
The almost universal wearing
of one-piece and long-waisted
dresses, especially of thin materials,
has made the use of the slip prac-
tically a necessity.
In choosing a pattern for a slip,
select one with a straight lower
edge if possible, and with some
fullness over the hips. This full-
ness is often obtained by cutting
on an extension at the hip depth at
the side seams of both front and
back sections. The garment must
be full enough to slip over the head
and shoulders.
Materials.- T h e materials
used for slips vary almost as much
as those for outside petticoats. Sat-
eens, silks and rayons seem to be
the most favored materials, and the
colors are generally light, except
for wear with dark dresses of
transparent material when slips of
dark silk are used.
Making.- The finish at t h e
top is generally straight, with straps
over the shoulders. If the slip is
of thin goods and is to be worn
with dresses of transparent mater-
ial, it is advisable to allow for a
hem extending up to the hip line.
This is more satisfactory than mak-
ing the front and back breadths Slip
double, or than facing them with
other material as in the laundering, materials shrink differently.
The side seams are generally French seamed and the seam joining
the gathered section at the sides is either bound or faced.
16 CoLORADO AGRICULTURAL CoLLEGE

Slips are generally made with a tailored finish, that is, with no
trimming and with plain or hemstitched hems.
The straps over the shoulders may be of ribbon or lingerie tape
to match the slip or of the same material stitched or hemstitched to
match the finish on other portions of the garment.
The fullness at the top may be
1 I held in with ribbon or lingerie tape
) run through a casing which may be
made by running a second row of
plain or ornamental stitching in the
~la.s\ •---L ~·----• sl.uh top hem.

NIGHT GOWN
This garment has become much
more straight in line and simple in
cut in the last few years, and where
fTont we formerly purchased night gowns
ready made, as a matter of economy
of time, and sometimes of money as
well, it is now possible to make them
in a very short time and at a small
expenditure of money. The most
popular types of gowns are t h e
sleeveless and the kimona, the latter
having a short sleeve. These designs
Flat Pattern of Slip
and many others as well are of the
slip-on type, thus doing away with
the necessity of buttons and buttonholes. When sleeves are cut sep-
arately from the garment they are generally the set-in style, finished
above or below the elbow. All of the slip-on gowns have enough full-
ness, or have the neck cut out to a sufficient size to allow them to slip
over the head easily and any extra amount of fullness is then adjusted
by a ribbon or lingerie tape.
Materials.- The materials for gowns may be of cotton or silk.
In the cotton goods, nainsook, cambric, and long cloth are favorite
materials, while domestic or muslin, batiste, satinette, crepe, ripplette,
dimity and outing flannel all have their advocates. In the silks, crepe
de Chine, pongee, pussy willow, or wash satin are all excellent.
Trimmings.- The trimmings for the cotton gowns may be of
lace or embroidery in a quality to suit the material used. Gowns of
outing flannel, if trimmed at all, look best with some simple braid which
can be stitched on flat.
Night gowns of silk frequently are finished in a tailored effect
with no trimming at all. Machine hemstitching gives an excellent
effect and a little hand embroidery may be used very effectively.
If lace is used it should be of a quality and design to correspond
with the material on which it is to ·be used.
 UNDERGARMENTS 17

Making.-French seams are generally used on night gowns

except on those of outing flannel on which a flat fell is better. On crepe
de Chine it will be necessary to watch the tension of the machine in
order that the garment
does not draw up at t h e
seam, thus making it diffi-
cult to turn a satisfactory
hem in the lower edge. On
account of the length the
seams in gowns are nearly
always made by machine.
The hems at the lower
edge may be finished by
hand or machine, depend-
ing on the material and the
effect desired. The width
of the hem at the lower
edge may vary from 1 inch
in the heavier materials to
two inches in the finer cot-
ton materials and in silks.
The length of the gown
should be from 1 to 2 in-
ches from the floor when
finished.
The top of the gown
may be finished in any de-
sired way, by m a c h i n e
hemstitching, hand em-
broidery or trimmings of
lace or embroidery, or the
neck and armseye (if the
garment is sleeveless) may
be finished with a narrow,
bias binding of the mater-
ial. The second sewing of
this binding may be by
plain mach i n e stitching,
hand hemming, or by a line
Nightgown
of decorative stitches.
A facing may also be used as a finish for the neck and armseye.
This may be applied either on the right or wrong side of the garment
and finished with machine stitching, machine hem-stitching, or by hand
sewing, either plain hemming or a line of decorative stitches. These
methods are often used on gowns which fit smoothly about the shoulders
but which have the neck cut to such a depth that the gown can be
slipped on easily.
The sleeves are generally finished to match the neck
18 CoLoRADO AGRICULTURAL CoLLEGE

PAJAMAS
The vogue of s le e p i n g
porches, and camping out in
summer has been largely re-
sponsible for the fashion of
pajamas among women.
From almost an exact copy
of the styles of men's paja-
mas, those for women h a v e
now become somewhat more
practical, more attractive in
appearance and a little more
simple to make.
Materials.- The materials
used in women's pajamas are
practically the same as for
gowns. As pajamas are gen-
erally tailored in effect, the
decoration should be confined
to machine hemstitching or
bands of material of a con-
trasting color.
Making.-In testing the
pattern, be sure that the depth
of the seat (from the waist to
crotch) in the trousers is long
enough to be comfortable.
The seams of the trousers
should be flat felled and the
bottoms hemmed with a 1 inch
hem put in by hand or ma-
chine unless the pattern calls
for a facing on the right side.
If the trousers are full and
to be gathered at the ankle,
the lower edge is generally
finished with a narrow hem
and a casing for e 1 a s t i c
Pajamas stitched on about 1.:% inches
above the hem.
If the trousers have a side placket at the waist, this should be
finished with a continuous facing for which directions are given in the
Sewing Handbook, but many of the patterns do not call for plackets.
The trousers are finished at the top with a straight facing about 1 inch
wide which is also used as a casing for ties of the material if the placket
is used, or for an elastic, if there is no placket opening.
If ties of the material are to be used, cut a lengthwise strip of the
material about 2 inches wide and the desired waist measure plus one
 UNDERGARMENTS 19

yard. If this strip can be planned with the selvedge on one long edge
the selvedge can be utilized as a finish instead of turning in both long
edges. Fold the strap to a ~-inch width turning in the ends and
stitching around all edges.
Pajamas jackets are of two types, the slip-on and the double
breasted. The slip-on type is much more simple to make especially
when the kimona sleeve is used. The seams of
the jacket should be flat felled to match those in
the trousers. The sleeves are also put in with a
flat fell. The lower edges of the jacket and
sleeves are generally finished with a l-inch hem
by hand or machine, unless the pattern calls for a
cuff finish or a facing on the sleeves.
In the slip-on model the neck of the pajamas
jacket is generally finished with a shaped facing
on the right or wrong side. This facing may be
of the same material or of a contrasting color.
After the facing is stitched and turned onto the
right or wrong side of the garment, machine
hem-stitching, decorative stitches by hand, or
plain machine stitching will furnish attractive
methods of holding it in position. Directions for
cutting and applying shaped facings will be found
in the Sewing Handbook.
When the regular jacket opening is desired, Trousers of Pajamas
the fronts are faced back for several inches with Suit
a shaped facing put on from the right side and
turned onto the wrong side. The neck is also faced with a shaped
facing extending from the front facing around the shoulders and back
of the neck.
Jackets made in this way fasten with buttons and buttonholes, or
buttons and loops of cord or braid.
If trimming is desired, a flat braid of mercerized cotton or silk
will be found most satisfactory.
KIMONAS AND NEGLIGEES
Even though the kimona as such is now decidedly out of date the
term has come to include almost any type of negligee from the simplest
kimona pattern to the most elaborate partially fitted garment.
The designs for the negligees vary fully as much as those for
dresses, and the loose full type has for the moment gone into the
discard and has been superseded by a straight type.
The true kimona pattern designed after the Japanese garment,
straight in cut, and rather scant in material is seen in this country
much more now than formerly.
A kimona or negligee is distinctly a loose garment which should
be worn only in the privacy of one's own room, or in passing from one's
room to a dressing room or bath.
20 COLORADO AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE

Some of the more elaborate negligees might almost be classed

as dresses. This type of garment is, however, not suggested as a
problem for extension work.
There is quite a tendency to return
to the practical in nt:!gligees, and more
of the plain tailored style, similar to
the illustration are shown. A gar""
ment of this kind reminds one of a
man's dressing gown or bath robe.
Materials.- The materials used
for negligees include all types from
the plainest cottons to the most elab-
orate silks.
Suitable materials in cotton are
crepe, satine, satinette, dimity and soft
prints.
In silks, crepe, satin and taffeta.
In wools, challis and flannel, the latter
a ~cotch or French flannel, or the well
known eider down flannel. Eider down
flannel has a soft wooly surface witp
knitted cotton back.
Rayon materials are most attrac-
tive and suitable for negligees.
The qualities which s h o u 1 d be
looked for in materials for negligees
are softness, enough "body" or weight
to hang well, and occasionally warmth.
The color should be suitable for
Negligee or Dressing Gown the places in which such a garment
will be used and may be beautiful as
well. In one's home a negligee of a brilliant and becoming color is
quite permissible, while in traveling such a color would tend to make
the wearer conspicuous.
Plaids, checks, stripes and figures are quite in their proper place
in negligees if we desire such. Considerable care should be taken in
the selection of the pattern to get a design which will be easy to make
and practical to wear.
The illustration shows a sensible type of negligee which may be
made of heavy cotton, silk, rayon or flannel.
Making.-The seams of negligees are French seamed or flat
felled according to the material used. A flat fell gives a much more
tailored effect.
The length of a negligee varies as much as the length of a dress,
and as to how complete a covering is desired.
A two-inch hem at the lower edge will be a satisfactory finish.
The negligee shown has a shawl collar, and the fronts overlap or wrap
around.
 UNDERGARMENTS 21
The shawl collar is made double and put on with a bias facing of
the material, the facing extending down the front edges.
The cuffs are applied in the same way.
A string belt of the material, cut straight lengthwise, and stitched
and turned serves to hold the garment close about the figure.
Buttons and buttonholes may be used if desired, and the pockets
too are optional.

BOUDOIR CAPS
Through much misuse, the boudoir cap, which at first seemed to
be a most useful article of apparel, has come to be considered almost
unsuitable for a self-respecting girl or woman. However the boudoir
cap in itself is such a practical article that a few comments on it will
not be amiss.
First, as to the time for wearing a boudoir cap, it may be worn
quite suitably on occasions when a negligee is worn, and at no other
time.
A boudoir cap should not be an addition to the breakfast costume,
nor to the outfit for motoring.
Materials.- Soft silk, ribbons, net and lace are all used for
making boudoir caps. The colors should be delicate or, for practical
purposes, a cap to match the negligee may be made. The trimmings
used are generally lace and ribbon. Many of the more attractive caps
are tailored in effect, decorated with machine hemstitching.
Making.- The details of the making depend on the style and
pattern and materials used, and as little sewing as possible should be
done in order not to destroy the desired soft effect. All raw edges
should be carefully concealed.
The types of boudoir caps which will stay in place without an
elastic band are in better style than those requiring an elastic band.