Stitches and Seam Techniques

Seen on Dark Age / Medieval Garments in Various Museum Collections

The following notes have been gathered while attempting to learn stitches and construction
techniques in use during the Dark Ages / Medieval period.
The following is in no way a complete report, but only an indication of some techniques
observed on extant Dark Ages / Medieval garments.
Hopefully, others who are researching “actual” garments of the period in question will
also report on their findings, so that comparisons can be made and a better total
understanding achieved.

Jennifer Baker –New Varangian Guard – Hodegon Branch – 2009

Contents

VIKING AND SAXON STITCHES

1. RUNNING STITCH
2. OVERSEWING
3. HERRINGBONE
4. BLANKET STITCH

SEAMS
1. SEAMS
2. BUTTED SEAMS
3. STAND-UP SEAM
4. SEAMS SPREAD OPEN AFTER JOIN IS MADE
5. “LAPPED” FELL SEAM
6. FELL SEAM WORKED ON WRONG SIDE OF GARMENT

FINISHES ON RAW EDGES OF SEAMS

SEWING ON TABLET WOVEN BRAID

HEMS

OTHER STITCHES FOUND IN ARCHEOLOGICAL FINDS

REFERENCES

1
 Stitches and Seam Techniques

VIKING AND SAXON STITCHES

There are only four basic stitches to master:

1. RUNNING STITCH ,
2. OVERSEWING, ALSO KNOWN AS OVERCAST STITCH OR WHIP STITCH
3. HERRINGBONE , ALSO KNOWN AS CATCH STITCH
4. AND BLANKET STITCH. ALSO KNOWN AS BUTTONHOLE STITCH

Running stitch is probably the easiest to start with followed by oversewing. With these two
stitches you can make clothing.

The other two are for decorative edging.

These directions are for a right handed person, if you are left handed remember to reverse all
directions.

2
 Stitches and Seam Techniques

RUNNING STITCH

A running stitch is done through one or more layers of fabric (but normally two or more), with the
needle going down and up, down and up, in an essentially straight line. It is pretty much the only
stitch where several stitches can be taken at a time on the needle before drawing the thread
through. The thread forms a dashed line. The running stitch has very little elasticity and may break
if used on stretchy fabrics or on the bias.

Method : Running stitch is worked from right to left. Several stitches can be picked up on the
needle at once before pulling the needle through.

Found on:

Hald, M. Ancient
Danish Krogens Mølle
Running stitch Hooded cape Danish Textiles,
bronze age Mose, Denmark
p. 15
Hald, M. Ancient
Danish Aardestrup,
Running stitch Skin cape. Running stitched seams Danish Textiles,
bronze age Denmark
p. 33
Hald, M. Ancient
Danish Roummose,
Running stitch Sheep skin cape. Running stitched seams Danish Textiles,
bronze age Denmark
p. 42
Hald, M. Ancient
Danish Karlby Mose,
Running Stitch Skin cape C. Running stitch in gut or sinew Danish Textiles,
bronze age Denmark
p. 47
Hald, M. Ancient
Danish Karlby Mose, Skin cape B. Cape sewn in running stitch with
Running stitch Danish Textiles,
bronze age Denmark skin thread
p. 47
Hald, M. Ancient
Danish Arden Mose,
Running stitch Fragment with running stitches Danish Textiles,
bronze age Denamrk
p. 280
Hald, M. Ancient
Danish Boremose,
Running stitch Cape I. Running stitched neck hem Danish Textiles,
bronze age Denmark
p. 18
Hald, M. Ancient
Danish Boremose,
Running stitch Cape II. Running stitch seams Danish Textiles,
bronze age Denmark
p. 18

3
 Stitches and Seam Techniques
Hald, M. Ancient
Danish Baunsø Mose, Skin cape A. Sewn in running stitch with gut
Running stitch Danish Textiles,
bronze age Denmark or leather
p. 39
Hald, M. Ancient
Danish Baunsø Mose,
Running stitch Skin cape B. Hem stitch used for piecing Danish Textiles,
bronze age Denmark
p. 39
Hald, M. Ancient
Danish Karlby Mose, Skin remnants D and E. Pieces of skin sewn
Running stitch Danish Textiles,
bronze age Denmark together with running stitch
p. 47
Hald, M. Ancient
Danish Huldremose,
Running stitch Skin cape. Sewn with running stitch Danish Textiles,
bronze age Denmark
p. 52
Hald, M. Ancient
Danish Haraldskæ Mose,
Running stitch Skin cape. Skins joined with running stitches Danish Textiles,
bronze age Denmark
p. 58
Viking Walton, P. Small
Running stitch York, England Item 1460b. Ribbon bound-edge on fragment
Era? Finds, p. 320
Viking Walton, P. Small
Running stitch York, England Ribbon folded lengthwise & stitched
Era? Finds, p. 369
Walton, P.
Viking 16-22 Coppergate No. 1408. Silk reliquary Textile
Running stitch York, England
Era? pouch Production
NESA3, p. 68
Heckett, E. Some
Viking
Dublin, Co. Cork, Silk & Wool
Running stitch era, 9th- Typical elements of silk and woolen caps
Ireland Textiles NESA3,
11th c
p. 85
Seam treatment: seam stitched in running
Late 10th Priest-Dorman, p.
Running stitch Hedeby (Haithabu) stitch; raw edges folded in toward each other
c 9
and stitched together, as for a French seam
Viborg Søndersø, Fentz, p. ;
Running stitch 11th c Man’s shirt
Denmark Mulvaney, p. 7
Stitching holes on items indicate that in the
majority of cases a fine line of running
General stitches was used for holding two edges of
Crowfoot et al, p.
Running stitch for middle London, England cloth together. Size of stitches vary in relation
155
ages to fineness and flexibility of cloth. 2-3mm
stitch length is usual, though 4mm stitches
have been recorded.
General Allowances of backstitched seams held down
Crowfoot et al, p.
Running stitch for middle London, England to either side with running stitches, about 2-
156
ages 3mm out from seam

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 Stitches and Seam Techniques

OVERSEWING
also known as Overcast stitch or Whip stitch

The standard overcast stitch is done through the edge of one or more layers of fabric. The needle
goes through the fabric from one side and then is brought around the edge to go through the fabric
again from the same side. The thread forms a spiral, going around the cut edge.

Method : Oversewing is worked diagonally from left to right

Found on:

Danish
Huldremose, Skin cape. Sewn with overcast Hald, M. Ancient
Overcast stitch bronze
Denmark stitch Danish Textiles, p. 52
age
Danish
Auning Mose, Hald, M. Ancient
Overcast stitch bronze Piece of cloth with overcast edges
Denmark Danish Textiles, p. 54
age
Danish Refstrup
Hald, M. Ancient
Overcast stitch bronze Hovedgaard, Skin cape with overcast seams
Danish Textiles, p. 56
age Denmark
Danish
Møgelmose, Skin jacket with overcast stitches Hald, M. Ancient
Overcast stitch bronze
Denmark in leather thread Danish Textiles, p. 56
age
Danish
Haraldskæ Mose, Skin cape. Skins joined with Hald, M. Ancient
Overcast stitch bronze
Denmark overcast stitches Danish Textiles, p. 58
age
Danish
Rønbjerg Mose, Hald, M. Ancient
Overcast stitch bronze Tunic sewn with overcast stitch
Denmark Danish Textiles, p. 66
age
Danish Fragment of skin garment. Sewn
Vester Torsted Hald, M. Ancient
Overcast stitch bronze with overcast stitch; overcast
Mose, Denmark Danish Textiles, p. 66
age stitch around cut out portion

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 Stitches and Seam Techniques
Danish
Denmark Hald, M. Ancient
Overcast stitch bronze Reference to skins and textiles
(general) Danish Textiles, p. 279
age
Danish
Karlby Mose, Skin cape C. Overcast stitch in gut Hald, M. Ancient
Overcast stitch bronze
Denmark or sinew Danish Textiles, p. 47
age
Pre-
St. Andrew’s Hood. Seam edges whipped
Viking or Henshall, A. Early
Overcast stitch Parish, Orkney together; woven decorative band
Viking Textiles, p. 13
Island, Scotland ends whipped with deep stitches
era
Seam treatment: seam stitched in
Late 10th Hedeby
Overcast stitch running stitch; raw edges folded in Priest-Dorman, p. 9
c (Haithabu)
and overcast, as for a French seam
Walton, P. Textile
Viking 16-22 Coppergate No. 1408. Silk
Over stitch York, England Production NESA3, p.
Era? reliquary pouch
68
Viking Ribbon folded lengthwise & Walton, P. Small Finds,
Overcast stitch York, England
Era? stitched p. 369

"Through" Viborg Søndersø, Fentz, p. ; Mulvaney, p.

11th c Man’s shirt
overcast stitch Denmark 7

Whip (overcast) Viborg Søndersø, Fentz, p. ; Mulvaney, p.

11th c Man’s shirt
stitch Denmark 6
Viking Heckett, E. Some Silk
Whip stitched Dublin, Co. Cork, Typical elements of silk and
era, 9th- & Wool Textiles
cord Ireland woolen caps
11th c NESA3, p. 85
Viking Stuffed pleats stitched together Walton, P. Small Finds,
Whip stitch York, England
Era? across the top p. 355

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 Stitches and Seam Techniques

HERRINGBONE
Also known as Catch Stitch

Herringbone tends to be a decorative, rather than a structural, stitch. Think of it as doing two
parallel rows of backstitch where you alternate which row you're sewing with each stitch. The
stitch is very elastic. The working surface shows a zig-zig with an X at each point, the underside
shows two parallel dashed lines.

Method : Herringbone stitch is started at the top of the row. Work from left to right alternately
taking a stitch at the top and a stitch at the bottom.

To Work Herringbone Stitch - Commence by bringing the needle out on the left-hand side of
the line to be worked. Make a small stitch on the upper line which points to the left. Keep the
thread below the needle and pull it through the fabric. Insert the thread on the lower line a little to
the right and make a small stitch which points to the left. Pull the needle through the fabric with
the thread above the needle.

Danish Hald, M.
Herringbone Huldremose,
bronze Skirt Ancient Danish
stitch Denmark
age Textiles, p. 280

Walton, P.
Viking 16-22 Coppergate No. 1408. Silk Textile
Catch stitch York, England
Era? reliquary pouch Production
NESA3, p. 68

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 Stitches and Seam Techniques

BLANKET STITCH.
Also known as Buttonhole stitch

The primary use of the blanket stitch is to finish edges, especially cut edges, but it is also
commonly used to finish eyelets and buttonholes. (It may also be called "buttonhole
stitch".) It is produced similarly to the overcast stitch, but after the needle goes through
the fabric, it catches the loop of thread, resulting in a series of L-shaped stitches along the
edge of the fabric. This stitch is also somewhat decorative. In one case, two selvedges
have been joined by using a blanket stitch that alternates which side of the seam the stitch
goes through.

Method : Blanket stitch is worked from left to right. The needle is brought up vertically
and brought out of the fabric with the thread tucked under the needle

Danish Hald, M.
Buttonhole Denmark
bronze Reference to skins and textiles Ancient Danish
stitch (general)
age Textiles, p. 279
Danish Hald, M.
Buttonhole Bredmose, Coarse cloth. 2 seamed edges oversewn
bronze Ancient Danish
stitch Denmark with buttonhole stitch
age Textiles, p. 28
Danish Hald, M.
Buttonhole Aalestrup Bog, Pieces of woven fabric sewn in buttonhole
bronze Ancient Danish
stitch Denmark stitch
age Textiles, p. 44
Danish Hald, M.
Buttonhole Haraldskæ Mose, Fabric II. Fringed edge oversewn in
bronze Ancient Danish
stitch Denmark buttonhole stitch
age Textiles, p. 58
Danish Hald, M.
Buttonhole Hvilehøj, Remains of fine cloth. Fragment with
bronze Ancient Danish
stitch Denmark buttonhole stitch.
age Textiles, p. 118
Ornamental band of silk and gold thread, Hald, M.
Buttonhole Late 10th Bjerringhøj,
edge sewn with buttonhole stitch in silk Ancient Danish
stitch century Denmark
thread. Textiles, p. 106

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 Stitches and Seam Techniques

SEAMS
Seams are worked on the same principle as hems. If a cloth is fine, lightweight or tends to
fray it should be doubled over. If it is thick, heavy and does not fray it should be
overlapped. From the surviving sewn fragments, it would seem that just about any
combination of oversewing and running stitches which can be used were used.

9
 Stitches and Seam Techniques
BUTTED SEAMS
Also known as Bound seam

(Two selvedge edges, or two folded edges, brought together edge to edge and overcast;
join usually lays flat)

Bound seam fragment

Found on:
Walton, P.
Viking Item 1460b. Ribbon bound-edge on
Bound seam York, England Small Finds, p.
Era? fragment
320

10
 Stitches and Seam Techniques

SEAMS cont.

STAND-UP SEAM

(A seam which is first joined by running or backstitch; then turned in to the line of
stitching and overcast. This creates a tubular effect.)

Found on:

11
 Stitches and Seam Techniques

SEAMS SPREAD OPEN AFTER JOIN IS MADE

Found on:

12
 Stitches and Seam Techniques
“LAPPED” FELL SEAM

Where a seam in a garment is required, lap one edge over the other for a depth of approx.
1/2”. Fold in the raw edge and overcast (whip) down. Turn garment to other side, fold in
edge and overcast down. Seam finish will appear the same on both right and wrong sides
of garment.

Found on:

13
 Stitches and Seam Techniques

FELL SEAM WORKED ON WRONG SIDE OF GARMENT

Found on:

14
 Stitches and Seam Techniques
FINISHES ON RAW EDGES OF SEAMS

Found on:

15
 Stitches and Seam Techniques
SEWING ON TABLET WOVEN BRAID
When sewing on tablet woven braid there are two options: you can sew it over the edge
of the cloth and cover up the hem with it,
or you can use a row of blanket stitches to stop the edge of the cloth fraying, then use
oversewing to join the braid to the blanket stitches. This method was employed on the
cloak found in a chieftain's grave at Evebo Eide.

16
 Stitches and Seam Techniques

HEMS
The hem is the seam at the edge of a piece of cloth, how you sew the hem depends on
how thick the cloth is.

HEM STITCH
The hem stitch is used to tack an edge (either folded or not) down to a flat fabric the
name comes from its use in finishing folded hems. The edge is held down flat against the
main fabric and the needle is passed down through the main fabric alone, then up through
all the layers, then this is repeated. The thread forms a series of diagonals crossing the
line of the edge. This stitch is somewhat elastic, due to the zig-zag path of the thread. The
overcast and hem stitches are very similar in structure.

NARROW HEMS AT EDGES OF GARMENT

Found on:
1) The rolled seam in York / Oslo is only suitable for fabrics such as silk or very fine
linen.

2) The hems from Haithabu and London. Here the cloth is only folded over once and
can be used on thick wool

17
 Stitches and Seam Techniques

HEMS cont.

1) The hem from York. Here the cloth is folded twice and can be used on linen or fine
wool. If coarse wool is doubled over twice it will tend to stick out stiffly.

4) The hem in Haithabu & York uses the herringbone stitch and is used to hold down a
hem on wool which has been folded once. This is a decorative stitch and could be
used on the outside of a piece of clothing.

5) The hem from London. Here two different coloured threads have been used
alternately to give a decorative edge. Unusually this seam does not use one of the
standard four stitches. It has been worked over the edge of a piece of wool without
any folding. This sort of hem should only be used on a cloth which does not fray
much, or on leather

18
 Stitches and Seam Techniques

Danish Hald, M.
Krogens Mølle
Hem stitch bronze Hooded cape Ancient Danish
Mose, Denmark
age Textiles, p. 15
Danish Hald, M.
Roummose,
Hem stitch bronze Sheep skin cape. Ancient Danish
Denmark
age Textiles, p. 42
Danish Hald, M.
Karlby Mose,
Hem Stitch bronze Skin cape C. Hem stitch in gut or sinew Ancient Danish
Denmark
age Textiles, p. 47
Danish Hald, M.
Karlby Mose, Skin cape B. Cape sewn in hem stitch
Hem stitch bronze Ancient Danish
Denmark with skin thread
age Textiles, p. 47
Danish Hald, M.
Baunsø Mose, Skin cape A. Sewn in hem stitch with gut
Hem stitch bronze Ancient Danish
Denmark or leather
age Textiles, p. 39
Danish Hald, M.
Baunsø Mose,
Hem stitch bronze Skin cape B. Hem stitch used for piecing Ancient Danish
Denmark
age Textiles, p. 39
Danish Refstrup Hald, M.
Hem stitch bronze Hovedgaard, Skin cape with hem stitched seams Ancient Danish
age Denmark Textiles, p. 56
Danish Hald, M.
Haraldskæ Mose, Fabric I. Borders single-turned and hem
Hem stitch bronze Ancient Danish
Denmark stitched
age Textiles, p. 58
Danish Hald, M.
Vester Torsted Fragment of skin garment. Sewn with
Hem stitch bronze Ancient Danish
Mose, Denmark hem stitch
age Textiles, p. 66
Danish Two cloth fragments III. Edge turned Hald, M.
Vrangstrup,
Hem stitch bronze over and sewn in hem stitch with 2-ply Ancient Danish
Denmark
age sewing thread Textiles, p. 96
Danish Hald, M.
Huldremose,
Hemstitch bronze Skin cape. Sewn with hemstitch Ancient Danish
Denmark
age Textiles, p. 52
Hood. Raw edges of seam turned over
twice and hemmed down on the outside;
Pre-
edges framing the face turned over twice
Viking St. Andrew’s Henshall, A.
onto the outside making a hem ½ inch
Hem stitch or Parish, Orkney Early Textiles,
wide; lower edge of the cloth turned
Viking Island, Scotland p. 13
outwards and hemmed to edge of
era
decorative band; upper decorative band
whipped to upper edge of lower band

19
 Stitches and Seam Techniques

Walton, P.
Viking Item 1460b. Ribbon bound-edge on
Hem stitch York, England Small Finds, p.
Era? fragment
320
Heckett, E.
Viking
Dublin, Co. Cork, Some Silk &
Hem stitch era, 9th-
Ireland Wool Textiles
11th c
NESA3, p. 86
Viborg Søndersø,
Hem stitch 11th c Man’s shirt Fentz, p.
Denmark

Walton, P.
Viking
Rolled hem York, England Silk headdress, item #? Small Finds, p.
Era?
320
Walton, P.
Rolled hem Viking 16-22 Coppergate No. 1332. Silk Textile
York, England
(stitch type?) Era? headdress Production
NESA3, p. 70
Walton, P.
Rolled hem Viking Textile
York, England 5-7 Coppergate No. 651. Silk headdress
(stitch type?) Era? Production
NESA3, p. 70
Heckett, E.
Viking
Dublin, Co. Cork, Some Silk &
Rolled hem era, 9th- Typical elements of silk and woolen caps
Ireland Wool Textiles
11th c
NESA3, p. 85

Heckett, E.
Viking
Twice-turned Dublin, Co. Cork, Some Silk &
era, 9th- Typical elements of silk and woolen caps
hem Ireland Wool Textiles
11th c
NESA3, p. 85

Walton, P.
Upright hem Viking Item 1460b. Ribbon bound-edge on
York, England Small Finds, p.
stitch Era? fragment
320
Walton, P.
Upright hem Viking
York, England Item 1263. Small Finds, p.
stitch Era?
322

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 Hodegon’s Sewing Historic Clothing Guide

Other Stitches found in Archeological finds

SPLIT STITCH

A popular stitch, split stitch was used in many forms of embroidery including Opus Anglicanum and
Heraldic Embroidery. It was used for very fine work, often only using a single strand of silk thread
or was done using quite thick threads, such as wool. It was used as an outlining stitch or as a filling
stitch.

To Work Split Stitch - Bring the needle through at A and, following the line to be covered, take a
small back stitch so that the needle comes up through the working thread, as shown in the diagram.
Generally, it is easist to work this as a two step stitch by making a small stitch, then bringing the
needle up through the thread at the half way point.

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 Hodegon’s Sewing Historic Clothing Guide

BACKSTITCH

The back stitch tends to be used for seams when a significant amount of elasticity is needed, such as with
seams on the bias. The stitch is done similarly to a running stitch, but each stitch backtracks when it comes
back up through the fabric, resulting in a looping thread track. On the working side of the fabric, the thread
appears in a series of overlapping lines; on the back side, it appears to be a running stitch.

Bring the thread through on the stitch line and then take a small backward stitch through the fabric. Bring
the needle through again a little in front of the first stitch, then take another stitch, inserting the needle at
the point where it first came through. In blackwork, a single back stitch is usually worked over two threads
on a single-thread evenweave. This stitch is used in both counted and free embroidery

Found on:

Pre-
St. Andrew’s Henshall, A.
Back stitch Viking or Hood. Decorative band sewn to body of
Parish, Orkney Early Textiles,
(probably) Viking hood with "regular" stitches
Island, Scotland p. 13
era
Viborg Søndersø, Fentz, p. ;
Back stitch 11th c Man’s shirt.
Denmark Mulvaney, p. 6
General Used for seams under pressure. No certain
for evidence of it exists in London examples, Crowfoot et al,
Back stitch London, England
middle but may have been used on bias-cut items p. 156
ages such as hose.

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 Hodegon’s Sewing Historic Clothing Guide

TWISTED BUTTONHOLE STITCH

Begin on the bottom line as for regular buttonhole stitch and pull the thread through
Holding the thread with your left thumb, insert your needle on the bottom line and take a stitch straight up
and alongside the previous stitch
Pull the thread through in an upward motion. You'll see the little loop at the bottom tightens to hold the
stitch. Take your thread back down through that little loop.
Repeat, and continue along until you've completed your length. Take your thread to the back and finish
off.

Twisted Danish Hald, M.

Osterbolle,
buttonhole bronze Fragment Ancient Danish
Denmark
stitch age Textiles, p. 280

CHAIN STITCH

To Work Chain Stitch - Bring the thread up at the top of the line and hold it down with the left thumb.
Insert the needle where it last emerged and bring the point out a short distance away. Pull the thread
through, keeping the working thread under the needle point.

Pre-
St. Andrew’s Hood. Mend under chin – chain stitches in Henshall, A.
Viking or
Chain stitch parish, Orkney double thread, 5 per inch, at point of Early Textiles,
Viking
Island, Scotland weakness, framing an area of darning p. 13
era

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 Hodegon’s Sewing Historic Clothing Guide

BRAIDING STITCH
Braid stitch rather resembles a fancy braid laid upon the material. It looks best when carried out with a stoutly
twisted thread

Danish Hald, M.
Thorsberg Mose, Cloth fragment with oversewing in stitch
Braiding stitch bronze Ancient Danish
Denmark resembling braiding stitch
age Textiles, p. 72

FEATHER STITCH

Feather stitch or briar stitch: Mark a center line. Make like blanket stitch, slanting the stitches, first from
right to left, then from left to right on either side of center.

1. Bring thread up at A; pull through.

2. Thread below work, insert needle at B; scoop out at C; pull through.
3. Thread below work, insert needle at D; scoop out at E (thread below work); pull through.
4. Repeat

Danish Hald, M.
Huldremose,
Feather stitch bronze Checkered skirt Ancient Danish
Denmark
age Textiles, p. 51

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 Hodegon’s Sewing Historic Clothing Guide

DARNING STITCH

Pre-
St. Andrew’s Henshall, A.
Darning Viking or Hood. Mending; stitching copies the twill
Parish, Orkney Early Textiles,
stitch(twill) Viking weave in a heavier and darker yarn
Island, Scotland p. 13
era
Pre-
St. Andrew’s Hood. Mend under chin area in a different Henshall, A.
Viking or
Patch or darn parish, Orkney fabric, possibly darned in (check text Early Textiles,
Viking
Island, Scotland again) p. 13
era

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 Hodegon’s Sewing Historic Clothing Guide

SURFACE COUCHING
Also known as Couched cord

To Work Surface Couching - Lay down the thread to be couched, and with another thread catch it down
with small stitches worked over the top

Danish Hald, M.
Denmark
Couched cord bronze Reference to skins and textiles Ancient Danish
(general)
age Textiles, p. 279

Underside Couching

To Work Underside Couching - In the embroidery technique

of underside couching, thread (usually gold) is laid on the
surface of the ground fabric, couching threads are then passed
over it. As each couching stitch is worked over the gold
thread, the needle is carefully re-inserted into the hole in the
backing fabric that the needle created on the way out. The
couching thread is pulled tight and a tiny loop of the gold
thread from the surface drops through the hole in the backing
fabric to the underside (thus giving the technique its name).

This creates a hinge in the gold thread, allowing the fabric to

bend and giving it a great flexibility. Fabric worked with gold
thread in underside couching has much more drape than fabric
with surface couched gold, thus making it a much better
technique for working objects which will be worn, such as
ecclesiastical vestments.

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 Hodegon’s Sewing Historic Clothing Guide

Laid and Couched Work

Laid and Couched Work, is a form of embroidery

where a thread (usually wool ) is laid on a ground
fabric (usually wool or linen ). This stitch is created
by laying a set of ground threads, that work from one
side of the pattern to the other (Fig a). Over these
threads, in the opposite direction, are laid another set
of threads at regular intervals (Fig b). These cross
threads are then held down by a series of couching
stitches (Fig c). The whole process results in an area
completely covered in thread. This technique allows
for large areas of pattern to be covered very quickly.

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 Hodegon’s Sewing Historic Clothing Guide

REFERENCES

for Pictures of stitches -

1. Stitches and Seam Techniques - #134 Seen on 18th Century Garments in Various
Museum Collections
2. Dark Age Stitch Types

For Information on stitches -

Sewing Stitches Used in Medieval Clothing Compilied by Jennifer L. Carlson

http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~Marc-Carlson/cloth/stitches.htm

historical needlework resources

http://www.medieval.webcon.net.au/technique_stitches.html

Archaeological Sewing by Heather Rose Jones

http://heatherrosejones.com/archaeologicalsewing/index.html

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